Ben Rock for TRIM Classic Barber & Legendary Beauty by Ben Rock

COLOREssential THEORY

C O L O R T H E O RY

 E s s e n t i a l Color Theory

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-1

essential

Concepts: Color Theory beginning with the reflection of light through the selection of color shades and basic formulation THE ORY ( 2 H ou r C l a s s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn the basic color theory necessary to be a successful colorist.”

“We are going to discuss how light creates color by reflecting oﬀ surfaces and how diﬀerent shades colors are created. We’ll also discuss the four types of hair color products we utilize at TRIM and how they work. We will also learn the steps for a successful color consultation

with some basic formulations.”

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet. •Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class. •Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets. •Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Begin class.

Materials Day Of Class Color book Color Cards Color tableau Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz

Light and Color How we see color

he human eye cannot perceive color without light.

Light is partially absorbed when it falls onto a colored object. The unabsorbed light is reflected and is perceived by the eye and brain as the color of the object. Sunlight contains rays of all (visible) wavelengths and therefore reflects all visible colors. This is why we can see all colors in a rainbow. Light falling on an object is partially absorbed. The unabsorbed light is reflected and is perceived by the eye and brain as the color of the object.

Light and Shine How light reflects oﬀ hair

ome objects shine and others do not. The surface texture of an object such as the hair will influence the shine of the object.

Only a smooth, even surface can completely reflect incoming light rays. Such surfaces, a new car for example, are therefore perceived shiny to the human eye. In the same way, for hair to appear naturally shiny, light needs to be reflected oﬀ a smooth surface. This requires healthy hair, i.e. the cuticle layer lies smooth and close to the hair shaft representing a flat even surface. Because hair, especially lighter hair, has a tendency to be transparent, a kind of reverse reflection takes place. This occurs at the underside of the hair facing the light. If the light penetrating the hair is refracted or diﬀused by an uneven inner structure, the hair will appear less shiny and the perceived depth of color will be impaired.

The Law of Color

n order to understand the art of hair coloring, the first step is to understand the basic law of color.

% Optically, color is a reflection of light. When a beam of white light strikes a prism, it is separated in to six diďŹ&#x20AC;erent colors that can be seen with the naked eye: RED ORANGE YELLOW GREEN BLUE VIOLET %

These colors can be divided into three groups:

Primary Colors: %

Yellow, red, and blue

Secondary Colors:%

Orange, violet and green (which are made by combining two primary colors)

Tertiary Colors:% Those made by mixing primary colors with their neighboring secondary colors. Examples of a tertiary color would be blue-violet and yellow-orange (gold). % All hair color is tertiary; however, it is extremely important as a colorist to train your eye to identify the dominating primary or secondary color within the hair color. Once a colorist can identify the dominating color and fully understand the Law of Color, even the most severe corrective work becomes a system of logical steps.

TINTING AND LIGHTENING

The Color Wheel

The GOLDWELL Color Circle

7K B K 8K

10B

7K 5K

9 KG 8K G 7KG

N 9B B 8

7KR

8RO

4B 5RB 6RB

7R B

11N

6N 6NA 7NP 7NA 8NP 8NA 9NA

6SB 7A 7SB 8A 8SB

80 R 70R 6K G

N NN N N/ 4 N /N 3N

6N /N 5

GG 10 GN 10B 9 N /N N 9G 8N/NN N 7 N/N N 8K

10 N

6RO 6KR

B 7M B 6M B 5M

12B

8RB

11B

10A Green Ash

5VR

4R 5 V 5RV 6R 6VR

R 6R R

S 12B

S 10B

3VR

6 7R R R

11P

% The most important illustration for a hair colorist to remember is when a natural hair color is the desired end result, a balance of the complementary or counteracting colors is necessary. The placement of brown around the center of the color wheel illustrates what your end result will be every time you combine two colors directly across from each other on the color wheel.

1 2 BG 11GB 10 G B 11 G 1 0B G 10 G 9G B 8 GB 9G 8 7 G B 7B G G 7G 6G B 6B G 5GB 6 5BG G

12 G N

sing the Color Wheel as a guide to the Law of Color, colors opposite each other are known as complementary or counteracting colors. To control or correct any color, simply add the complementary color. To control orange, add blue. To control yellow, add violet, and to control gold (yellow-orange), add pearl (blue-violet). These rules are the Law of Color.

As 10P hA sh

Blu eA sh

11V

Violet Ash

10V

The Color Wheel shows the positioning of primary and secondary colors which are commonly found in hair color.

The GOLDWELL Color Circle consists of inner and outer circles. In the inner circle, you will find all shades consisting of mainly brown components. In the colored, mid-segments of the circles, all cool controlling and warm fashion shades are located. Each line represents a level, working from the center to the outside â&#x20AC;&#x201C; each 2-10 series shade is positioned on a level from darkest to lightest. According to the Universal Color Law and the Color Circle, opposite colors have a neutralizing effect on each other when mixed together. Positioned in the very outer circles are the special highlift series, due to their special lightening and controlling qualities.

Complementary (or Counteracting) Colors Pertaining to Hair Color

atural hair color contains the three primary colors. The primary colors mixed in varying proportions create brown. Therefore, all natural hair colors are a shade of brown with a dominating tone. For example: A blonde is simply the lightest brownâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;with dominating yellow A redhead is brown with dominating orange Black hair is the darkest brown with dominating blue % Remember that all hair color is brown. It is important to understand the presence of primary and secondary colors in hair color, then to combine that knowledge with the basic law of counteracting or complementary colors. The result is a logical formulation choice, with the optimum hair color result for each client.

Personalizing Color Every person has certain natural color characteristics that are determined by the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own pigments reflected in the hair, skin and eyes. In line with color harmony rules, four basic color types can be identified featuring the following characteristics: light cool, light warm, dark cool, and dark warm. Dividing the four basic color types as shown, you can make appropriate recommendations on hair color, makeup and clothes.

Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Color Characteristics

C a tegor i e s o f H a i r C o l o r There are four basic types of hair color products aimed at temporary to longlasting color changes using direct, oxidizing, and reductive color pigments. Direct Color Pigments

Oxidizing Pigments

Direct color products work with direct color pigments, which attach themselves to the outer layers of the hair. Direct color products are predominantly colored setting lotions, color mousses, shampoos, conditioners and gels.

Oxidative pigments make it possible to significantly and durably alter the color of the hair.

Direct color products are ready to use, as there is no need to add any developers to activate them and therefore show the color that you are applying to the hair. Direct pigments do not interfere with the hair structure, as they attach themselves only to the outer layers of the hair and their ability to penetrate deeper into the hair is dependent on the existing conditions. These products are therefore ideal as color revitalizers or toners, without the need to treat the regrowth. Direct color products are not suitable to lift the hair, because they are non-oxidizing and they are nonalkaline.

Direct color pigments attach themselves on or in the outer layers of the hair depending on the hair structure.

Oxidizing colors are activated using H2O2 as a developer. The oxidizing process turns the mostly colorless color builders into color pigments that can anchor themselves inside the hair for long-lasting color results. The alkalinity of these products causes the hair to swell thereby opening the cuticle to improve the penetration of the color pigments. At the same time, the oxidizing agent coupled with the alkalinity of the product, will lighten the natural color pigments, with the degree of lift depending on the strength of the developer used.

Color builders (small molecules) oxidize when H2O2 is added and turn into color pigments (molecule chains) that can be durably stored inside the hair.

g n i n e t Ligh Lightening allows color lifting more than four levels lighter than the existing base shade. Lightening reduces and changes natural as well as artificial color pigments, in various stages of oxidation to eliminate color within the pigments and lighten the hair as a result. Bleaches are also mixed with H2O2 to generate the reactive oxygen necessary for the lifting process. The alkalinity of the bleaching powder ensures that the reactive oxygen is directed toward achieving the required degree of lift. Any alkaline residue that may remain in the hair after bleaching must be neutralized by the application of an acidic conditioner or treatment.

H2O2 separates into water and oxygen that oxidizes color pigments inside the hair.

Color Removal Color removal is used to reduce oxidizing color pigments within the hair in such cases when, for example, the color result is too dark. A so-called reductive color remover is the gentlest way to achieve this. The reductive color remover is a two-component product: and alkalinereducing agent and an acid solution, which must be mixed together before the application. The ensuing color reduction literally reverses the oxidizing process, thereby returning the pigments to their original colorless state as color builders. To permanently remove the pigments, the hair then needs to be shampooed several times immediately after the reducing process, otherwise any residual pigments left in the hair may re-oxidize during subsequent color applications and produce unwanted results. To check whether suďŹ&#x192;cient pigments have been removed from the hair, it is useful to carry out a test using a low concentration of H2O2. Apply this to the hair and leave to process for three minutes, and then assess the result. If suďŹ&#x192;cient pigments have not been removed, repeat the process.

Color pigments (molecule chains) are reversed into small, colorless color builders that can be removed from the hair by shampooing and rinsing.

Formulating with Goldwell Hair Analysis

ccurate hair analysis before commencing the color service ensures that the end color result is achieved as expected. Coupled with information gained through consultation, the final target color and formula can be defined. Be sure to analyze and diagnose the existing situation thoroughly.

Definition of the Natural Color and the Color in Mid-length and Ends (Base Color) Accurate definition of the natural base shade enables feasible selection of the target color and the color formula. Inaccurate diagnosis will aﬀect the achievability of the target color. When retouching previously tinted hair, the natural base shade of the regrowth needs to be determined, as well as the existing shade in the mid-lengths and ends. Use the removable swatches from the Color Tableau or Color Book to accurately determine the natural base shade and existing shade.

Determining the Percentage of Grey Grey hair is actually white hair intermixed with darker, natural hair appearing to be grey. When the first white hairs appear, many clients wish to camouflage them to keep the color looking natural and youthful. To achieve successful coverage of the white hair, color pigments need to be

returned to the hair to replace the missing natural pigments. It is essential during the hair analysis to determine the percentage of white and enable the successful shade selection and formulation appropriate to the specific clients needs. During the analysis, use the removable “grey” swatch from the Color Tableau, which shows a representation of 30%, 50% and 70% white hair.

Determining the Texture of the Hair Hair texture refers to the diameter of the individual hair strands. (i.e.fine, medium and coarse). Awareness of hair texture is important as the texture of the hair can influence the perception of the natural base shade and/or existing color during the hair analysis (i.e. fine hair can appear lighter). The texture of the hair may also aﬀect the success of the final color result (i.e.coarse, grey hair can be resistant). Texture will influence the product selection, formulation, application, processing time and home care needs.

Structure and Condition of the Hair The structure and condition of the hair are factors that influence the successful achievement and quality of the target color. Special working procedures and customized formulas are required, according to the specific needs of the hair.

L ev el s of C o lo r 10 Extra Light Blonde 9 Very Light Blonde 8 Light Blonde 7 Medium Blonde 6 Dark Blonde

5 Light Brown

4 Medium Brown 3 Dark Brown

2 Black

TINTING AND LIGHTENING

Color Directions N

Natural

Natural Extra

Gold

Gold Natural

Gold Beige

Brown/Beige

Brown/Beige Gold

Beige Natural

Brown Copper

Red Brown

Copper Natural

Copper Beige

Copper

Copper Gold

Copper Red

11P

Orange Red

S 12B

Red Orange

Violet

Violet Red

Red

Red Red

The Color Wheel

The GOLDWELL Color Circle

1 2 BG 11GB 10 G B 11 G 1 0B G 10 G 9G B 8 GB 9G 8 7 G B 7B G G 7G 6G B 6B G 5GB 6 5BG G

7K B K 8K

10B

7KR

4B R 5 B 6RB

7R B

80 R 70R 6K G

6N 6NA 7NP 7NA 8NP 8NA 9NA

11N

6SB 7A 7SB 8A 8SB 9A

10A Green Ash

N N N N/ 4 N /N N 3N

9 KG 8K G 7KG

N 9B B 8

6 N 7B /N 5

GG 10 GN 10B 9 N /N N 9GN 8N/NN 7 N/N N 8K

10 N

8RO

B 7M B M 6 B 5M

12B

6RO 6KR

11B

8RB

12 G N

Pearl

Natural Pearl

Natural Ash

Ash

Matte Brown

Beige Silver

Silver Brown/Beige

5VR

R 6R R

6 7R R R

4V A

4R 5 V R 5 V 6R R 6V

Red Violet

S 10B

3VR

As 10P hA sh

Blu eA sh

11V

Violet Ash

10V

The GOLDWELL Color Circle consists of inner and outer circles. In the inner circle, you will find all shades consisting of mainly brown components. In the colored, mid-segments of the circles, all cool, controlling, warm, and fashion shades are located. Each line represents a level, working from the center to the outside – each 2-10 series shade Positioned in the very outeron circles are the from special darkest highlift series, to their special lightening and qualities. is positioned a level todue lightest. According tocontrolling the Universal Color Law and the Color Circle, opposite colors have a neutralizing eﬀect on each other when mixed together.

The GOLDWELL Color Circle consists of inner and outer circles. In the inner circle, you will find all shades consisting of mainly brown components. In the colored, mid-segments of the circles, all cool controlling and warm fashion shades are located. Each line represents a level, working from the center to the outside – each 2-10 series shade is positioned on a level from darkest to lightest. According to the Universal Color Law and the Color Circle, opposite colors have a neutralizing effect on each other when mixed together.

Positioned in the very outer circles are the special high-lift series, due to their special lightening and controlling qualities.

6GB

5GB

8N/ NN

7N/ NN

6N/ NN

4N/ NN

7GB

9GN

9N/ NN

5N/ NN

8GB

10GN

9GB

10GB

10B

BrownBeige

10G

GoldBeige

10N

GoldNatural

Gold

Natural/ Natural Extra

N/NN BN/BK

RB KN/KB

7RR

6RR

5RV

MAX RED

6BK

7BN

9BN

10BN

6RV

5BG

6BG

7BG

10BG

6RO

8RO

5RB

6RB

7RB

8RB

7KB

8KN

V/VR

6KG

7KG

8KG

9KG

6KR

7KR

7OR

8OR

3VR

5VR

6VR

10V

Copper- Copper- Orange- Violet/ Gold Red Red Violet-Red

MIX SHADES

BeigeCopperBrown- Natural/ Natural/ Red-Brown Copper Gold BrownCopperKupfer Beige

Red

6NA

7NA

8NA

9NA

10A

Ash

Permanent Hair Color

6NP

7NP

8NP

10P

Pearl/ NaturalPearl-Natural Ash

P/NP

5MB

6MB

7MB

MattBrown

6SB

7SB

8SB

10BS

BeigeSilver/ SilverBrown

BS/SB

11A

11B

CLEAR

Blonding Blonding Cream Cream Ash

11P

11GB

12BS

12BG

Demi-Permanent Hair Color

11V

11N

11G

12BN

12GN

HIGHLIFT BLONDES

GOLDWELL Shade Range atat a Glance Goldwell Shade Range a Glance

Formulation Blueprint Using the Color Consultation Form

ﬀective communication between the colorist and the client is extremely important to determine the needs and desires of the client, and to develop the ideal hair-color formula.

Step 1: Identify the existing level(s) (XL) Using the N-series swatches from the Color Tableau determine the existing level(s). It is essential to know the existing level and base shade(s), so a starting point can be determined and if the target color can be achieved in a single or double process. Step 2: Determine the target levelT I N T I N G A N D L I G H T E N I N G Ask: “Would you like to be lighter or darker than your natural color?” Answering steps 1 and 2 will determine the proper developer for optimum results.

4.1. Tinting Ð Topch ic Hair Color Step 3: Determine the target color (TC) 2 Ð 1 0 S erieAre s there any colors that you really like or Ask: “Are you looking for natural tones or something bolder? dislike?” (Choose a desired shade.)

Selecting the Appr

opriate Topchic Lo

tion Step 4: Determine the grey percentage (%) Topchic is a perm anent grey hair cocoverage Using the three categories of grey percentage also consider whetherreq the client prefers grey lor (ox idizinor g tin t) and uir es mi xing (1:1) with Topchic Lotio n (pe blending. When there is grey in the natural hair, the formula must contain portion of the N-series for roxoptimum ide) to cre ate theaide al working mi xture, the corre ct pH val ue an coverage. d mild alk alinit y, as well

Use the Color Consultation Form to formulate your color.

D ev el op er S e l ec t i o n The strength of lotion should be selected according to the required degree of lift.

Level of the Target Sh ade

Darker than the na tur al ba se shade or ex isting shade

Same lev el or 1 lev el lighter than natur al ba se shad e Optimum gre y (w hit e) co ver age 2– 3* lev els lighte r than the natur al ba se shade 3– 4* lev els lighte r than the natur al ba se shade

* Wi th the addition of Blonding Cr eam **Blonding Cr eam is not recommend ed

as reaching the de sir ed lightnes s. Achie vem ent of optimum co lor result s requir the selec tion of the es Topchic Lotion str ength appropriate for the individual for mula for each client depending on dif ference betwee the n the natur al base shade and the level the tar get shade. of

To pchic Lo tio n Str en gth

3 % (10 vol .)

6 % (20 vol .)

9 % (30 vol .)

12 % (40 vol .)

with 12 Serie s

Re co mmen de d Us e Topchic 2–10 Shad es Going darker than ba se lev el Toning Pr elighten ed Hair Topchic 2–10 Optimum Gr ey/ Wh ite Co ver age Topchic Tint Back s

Topchic 2–10 Topchic 11 Serie s*

Topchic 12 Serie s**

Addition Coloring

Exam ples he easiest type of formulation is addition coloring. This is of Addi tion C ol oring true because, by targeting the same level or going darker, the removal of natural pigment is very minimal. Therefore, the warm underlying pigment is not exposed. Simply use the standard 20 Vol. Topchic Lotion with your desired shade. If your target color is more than two levels darker than the existing level, it is considered a tint-back procedure and pre-filling may be necessary.

Subtraction Coloring

ubtraction coloring refers to hair coloring which requires the diďŹ&#x20AC;usion of natural pigment before depositing the new artificial pigment. % Anytime hair is lightened, some of the natural pigments are diďŹ&#x20AC;used. When hair is lightened from the darker levels, the dominance of the blue pigment is removed, exposing a blend of the other primary colors (red and yellow) which together make orange. At the lighter levels, more red and yellow are removed. Also at the lighter levels, yellow dominates over the red, thus creating the tertiary color yellow-orange or what is commonly referred to as gold. % Lightening hair always contributes warmth to the end result. Considering this, a logical choice can be made to use the natural underlying pigment to add warmth and brightness to a fashion color or to control the natural underlying pigment using a counteracting or complementary color. It is necessary to use some counteracting color if a natural tone is desired.

Underlying Pigment Chart The following chart shows the natural underlying pigment which is exposed at each level: If the target color is a warm or fashion tone, no control is necessary. The underlying pigment will contribute brightness and vibrancy to the final result. If a natural tone is the desired target color, simply use the appropriate counteracting color (right column) to control unwanted warmth (orange or gold). The result will be a more natural target color.

Natural Level

Natural Underlying Pigment-Exposed

Black (none exposed)

Darkest orange

Dark orange

Medium orange

Light orange

Extra light orange or dark gold

Medium gold (yellow-orange)

Light gold

Extra light gold or yellow*

Counteracting or Controlling Color

Blue (Ash Series)

Blue-Violet (Pearl Series)

Remember that the counteracting color used for control is determined by the underlying pigment at the target level (not the starting level). Consider that the darker existing natural level (starting point) is and the more levels of lift you are targeting, the greater the proportion of counteracting or control color you will need.

Examples of Subtraction Coloring: On the left are examples of fashion formulations where no control of underlying pigment is needed. On the right are formulations where the target color is a more natural tone requiring control. Fashion Formulation Examples

Natural or Non-Fashion Formulation Examples

ples

xam E l a n o i Addit

Using the Color Formulation Guide, the process for developing an accurate formula is simple, precise and systematic. Simply answer the questions in sequence to achieve an accurate formula. If levels vary on parts of the hair, simply ask the same questions for each contrasting level. First Time Color

Retouch Application

First Time Color with Grey

COLOR TECHNIQUE Essential

COLOR

TECHNIQUE

tial q u e  E s s e n Color Techni

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-2

Essential

Concepts: Working in 4 quadrants taking horizontal sections no more than 1/4” apart applying hair color using a brush or bottle and resulting in a satisfying color

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn the technique of coloring with brush application and bottle application.

“We are going to be developing the proper techniques for using a brush to apply color and the proper techniques for using the bottle to apply color. We will finish the style with a Take-Home Prescription and a Mason Pearson flat brush blowout.” Present terminology quiz. (10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.)

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s (2) techniques. (20 minutes)

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Demo mannequin w/tripod Student mannequins with tripods Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes Cholesterol & conditioner/H2O solution

EDU CATOR D E M O ( 4 5 M I N UT ES ) 1. Sectioning Begin by applying proper skin protective cream around the hairline either with a towel or a piece of cotton. Next, by using your brush or bottle, part the hair into 4 quadrants (4 basic sections) while applying color. This breaks down the process while keeping your work neat and organized. Take horizontal sections no more than 1/4” apart working your way down one quadrant at a time.

2. Root Application When applying a “root-only touchup”, be aware not to overlap old color and make sure the proper amount of product (saturation) per section is applied. There are exceptions when you are trying to “feather” new color into old color, taking the brush vertically and painting the new color to create a staggered line instead of a straight clean line.

It is recommended to start the application in the most resistant part of the of hair; for instance, around the face when covering grey or in the back of the head when using lightener.

4. Crosschecking Once all color has been applied, check your coverage by sectioning the opposite way you applied the color. This ensures detailed coverage and helps you find any areas you may have missed during the application. During the process, always be aware of excess color getting on your guest’s skin. Guests greatly appreciate the time and attention you put into keeping them clean and unstained!

If you are unsatisfied with a color result, try not to assume your formula needs changing. Proper application is just as important as your formulation!

-O Hands

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Let Student Consult First

3. Mid-shaft to Ends Application Once the root color has been applied, continue applying the color mid-shaft to ends. Proper application and saturation is KEY and staying neat and organized is a MUST.

Teach & Learn

Then ask the student some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly. Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

Practical Section, Stop, Wait Have students section head off, clip, stop and wait for next instruction. As they move through the class, the students should do precisely what you instruct on each section, then stop and wait until others complete that section. If they have finished their section correctly, they may move around the room observing the others until the next directive is given. Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

Why choose a brush over a bottle? Why choose a bottle over a brush?

brush can be used with all hair color we oﬀer at TRIM. This includes Goldwell Topchic, Goldwell Colorance, Redken Shades, all lighteners, and Pravana. A brush is ideal for “roughing up” the cuticle for proper grey coverage. A brush also gives you more control than a bottle. A bottle works well with all hair color used in the salon EXCEPT for Goldwell Topchic permanent hair color and lighteners. Topchic and lightener are too thick in texture for use for a bottle;

however, Topchic Glazes (which are a mixture of Topchic with water) is acceptable for bottle use as is lightener that has been diluted with extra developer and/or water. A bottle application can be a quicker process (especially if grey coverage is not a concern). A bottle is also ideal for rebalancing the ends after root color has been applied.

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-3

COLOR RETOUCH touch C o l o r  R e

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior

COLOR

RETOUCH

Concepts: To apply a base color that matches the ends and mid-shaft; formulate roots to ends without a wash to color ends

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to continue your education from last week on a live model. We are going to match up your model’s previously-colored ends to swatches to determine the color we need to match.

“We are going to further develop the proper skills of working in 4 quadrants taking horizontal sections no more than 1/4” apart applying hair color using a brush or bottle. If grey hair is present, sectioning must be even smaller. “We will finish the style with a TakeHome Prescription and a Mason Pearson

flat brush blowout.” Present terminology and formula quiz. (10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.) Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s (2) techniques. (20 minutes)

________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes

Teach & Learn

-O Hands

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation

When can I overlap color? What happens if I overlap color?

olor can be overlapped only when it is feathered through the line of demarcation to break up a previous color line in the hair.

If color is overlapped, a line darker than the actual chosen color appears and leaves bands in the hair.

Move as a Group

REFRESHER: Root Application

Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

When applying a “root-only touchup”, be aware not to overlap old color and make sure the proper amount of product (saturation) per section is applied.

Let Student Consult First Then ask the student some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly. Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

There are exceptions when you are trying to “feather” new color into old color, taking the brush vertically and painting the new color to create a staggered line instead of a straight clean line.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-4

COLOR CHANGE ange C o l o r  C h

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior

COLOR

CHANGE

Concepts: Communication with guest through thorough consultation; making a color plan with a clear end result in mind.

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to continue your education from last week on a live model. We are going to tonally change your model’s hair color while staying at the same level.

flat brush blowout.” Present terminology and formula quiz. (10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.) Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques. (20 minutes)

________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes

Col or Ba l a n c in g A p p l i c ati o n 1. Regrowth

2. Mid-shaft to Ends Applications

Apply permanent hair color to the regrowth using the techniques learned in your previous classes. Begin timing. The color processing time is 30 minutes.

Approximately halfway through the processing time, apply the target semi-/ demi-color to slightly dampened midlengths and ends. Be sure to time the application of the semi-/demi-color so that it will be finished processing at the same time as the permanent hair color.

3. Rinse

On average, the semi-/demipermanent hair color should be applied when there are 15 minutes remaining in the permanent hair color processing time. (This time can be extended for richer ends or shortened for lighter ends.)

When processing is complete, lightly rinse the hair and gently work into a lather. Rinse, then follow with a colorsafe shampoo.

4. Finish Complete the service with a color-safe conditioner. Rinse, dry, and style.

When do I balance color? Repeated applications of permanent hair color can cause stress to the hair shaft and ends. Color balancing combines the use of semior demi-permanent hair color with permanent alkaline hair color in one service. It also eliminates the primary cause of fading hair color: chemical overlap. Color balancing restores vibrancy to color-treated hair without causing further stress to the hair while keeping the target colors true. Color balancing can be alternated between root touchups depending on the frequency of color services.

Teach & Learn

-O Hands

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

Topchic? Colorance? Shades? What’s the diﬀerence? Colorance

Colorance Intensive

Shades EQ

Topchic

Semi-permanent

Demi-permanent

Permanent alkaline hair color

pH neutral

Alkaline

Deposit only

Uses ammonia for color development and lift

Closes cuticle

Equivalent of 4% peroxide or slightly above using a 10 volume developer

Opens cuticle layer (no cortex) No ammonia

Most gentle on the hair

No ammonia

No heat

For grey coverage up to 40% (NB-series): MUST process 20 minutes under heat, then 20 minutes without heat

Swells the hair for easy penetration of the color pigments for color formation and lightening

Apply to damp, towel-dried hair

WILL lift slightly, so formulate carefully

Opens cuticle

Can only reapply 3 times before going darker

Grey coverage (NN-series)

Do not use as a colorshine on grey hair; creates brassy undertones

Hydrogen peroxide developer reacts with ammonia in hair color to lift or diﬀuse natural pigments to assist in desired hair color Use N- or NN-series for grey coverage

Apply to dry or damp hair

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-6

GREY COVERAGE erag G r e y  C o v

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior

GREY

C OV E R AG E

Concepts: To fully cover grey hair using proper brush and bottle technique

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to continue your education from last week on a live model. We are going to cover grey hair with an all-over color application.

“We are going to further develop the proper skills of working in 4 quadrants taking horizontal sections no more than 1/4” apart applying hair color using a brush or bottle. Since grey hair is present, sectioning must be even smaller. “We will finish the style with a TakeHome Prescription and a Mason Pearson

flat brush blowout.” Present terminology and formula quiz. (10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.) Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques. (20 minutes)

________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes

Fac ts a bou t G re y

Teach & Learn

Grey hair is generally more resistant to color, so many times it appears light than the pigmented hair around it even after it has been colored. For someone going grey and has never colored their hair, let them know that it will appear slightly lighter. It will be the blending of lighter and darker browns, blondes, etc., that will create a more natural look.

Gre y C ove r a ge A p p l i c a t i on 1. Regrowth Application

2. Mid-shaft to Ends Applications

-O Hands

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Grey Hair Tips and Tricks Always take very small sections when covering grey hair. 1/8 inch works best. Keep clean and even coverage throughout Start where the hair is the most grey Lighter hair on older guests usually is more complementary to their aging skin tones.

Tricks to get full coverage

Mix more color than developer—for example, 45-50ml of color to 40ml developer Pre-soften the grey. Mix 10ml water with 10ml target level N and apply to the resistant areas. Don’t remove; apply color formula right on top. Process for the normal amount of time.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

Triflectives: the latest shades in (covering) grey

oldwell Triflectives are used on hair that has grey only. The color pigment has three tones in each color; for example, 8NGB, Natural Gold Beige. These tones are then reflected throughout the color. Because there is more reflection in the hair, it will appear lighter than a normal level 8 or 7, etc. During formulation, be aware that if there is previous color on the hair you might want

to formulate down a level to match the rest of the hair to prevent the appearance of hot roots.

For mula ti ng fo r G r ey C o ve ra g e Grey Coverage with TopChic (1:1)

Triflectives are used with 20 and 30 volume only. Grey coverage with Triflectives is diﬀerent from the rest of Goldwell. 30 volume is used with hair with less than 50% grey and 20 volume is used with more than 50% grey.

Grey percentage

TopChic Lotion

Add N/NN

Target Color

Up to 30%

40 ml

15 ml

25 ml

Up to 60%

40 ml

20 ml

Up to 100%

40 ml

25 ml

15 ml

Grey Coverage with Colorance and Colorance Intensive (2:1) Grey percentage

N/NN-shade

Target Color

Up to 30%

5 ml

15 ml

30-50%

10 ml

50% and above

15 ml

5 ml

Grey Coverage with Shades EQ (1:1) Grey percentage

Other shade

Up to 25%

½ oz

1½ oz

25-50%

1 oz

50-75%

1½ oz

½ oz

75-100%

1¾ oz

¼ oz

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-7

HIGHLIGHT Placement & Technique T e c h n i q u e P l a c e m e n t 

Date __________

HIGHLIGHT

Technique Placement &

Concepts: Essential highlighting patterns. The diﬀerence between slice, skip/slice, and weave. The diﬀerence between diagonal, vertical, and horizontal placement.

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to create a highlight pattern using diagonal, horizontal, and vertical placement as well as weaving, skip/slice, and slice techniques throughout the mannequin.

“We will finish our mannequins with a Take-Home Prescription and a Mason Pearson flat brush blowout.” Discuss the eﬀects of lighter versus darker pieces in the hair, and ask some formulation questions for the class to solve.

Lead students through the Hands-On portion of today’s techniques.

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes

Teach & Learn

-On s d n a H Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Head Sheets Patterns Discuss highlight patterns for each student using the attached foil placement techniques.

Diagramming Have them diagram using different colored pens to show the different slicing techniques. One side of the head can be different from the other.

Mannequins Section, Stop, Wait After head sheets are filled out, discuss the simplest way to approach highlighting the mannequin head. Section off the mannequin into 5 sections: nape, back, both sides, and top. This is the best way to map out the head. Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section. Discuss a couple of highlight patterns that are commonly used on the floor every day and map out on head diagrams.

T ip s a nd T r ic k s Defining the eﬀects

Stitching guide

There are three types of lines in highlighting: horizontal, vertical, and diagonal.

The stitch and distance between the placements determine the amount of contrast created within each design and allows the salon professional to create customized highlights.

Horizontal lines (90 degree lines) Create width Are solid, stationary, and symmetrical Are sheets of color Great for helping fine hair look fuller Vertical lines (90 degree lines) Create length and texture Flattens a shape Collapses a shape Symmetrical Diagonal lines (45 degree lines) Create movement Asymmetrical Soften and blend Diagonal lines have the most versatility when it comes to movement in the color and cut. Diagonal forward, diagonal back, and variations of these techniques are placed on an angle of degree between 10 and 80 not just 45, making lots of options when working on the diagonal.

Combinations of all stitches can be very creative The farther apart (1 inch) the more contrast of color The closer together (1/4 inch) the less contrast of color The more contrast, the bolder the color appears A skip/slice leaves a piece-y eﬀect For more drama and “chunks,” eliminate the distance between partings—weave or slice next to the previously wrapped section of natural hair; this is referred to as “back-toback.” Regular Stitch 1/4 inch partings - heavier 1/2 inch partings - medium 1 inch partings - subtle Skip/Slice 1/4 inch partings - heavier 1/2 inch partings - medium 1 inch partings - subtle Slice 1/4 inch partings - heavier 1/2 inch partings - medium 1 inch partings - subtle

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve done better? What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

GREY BLENDING with Foils

GREY

BLENDING

Foils n g  w i t h Grey Blendi

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-8

with Foils

Concept: Using highlight techniques to soften the regrowth of grey hair

The or y ( 30 Mi n u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to continue your education from last week on a live model. We are going to blend grey hair with a highlighting application.

“We are going to further develop the proper skills highlighting hair by using color to blend away grey. Since we will only be blending the grey hair, not all of it will be covered during the service. “We will finish the style with a TakeHome Prescription and a Mason Pearson flat brush blowout.” Present terminology and formula quiz.

(10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.) Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques. (20 minutes)

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes

Teach & Learn

n O s d n Ha Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

B l e nd in g Gr e y Communication with your guest is extremely important in grey-blending. Make sure the guest knows all of their grey hair will not be covered. Greyblending softens the re-growth of grey hair. This service is ideal for the person who doesn’t highlight often and isn’t bothered by their grey hair. N/NN must be present in the formula to cover grey hair except for red hair and grey percentage. When choosing a foiling technique, be aware of grey patches and large streaks.

F or mula ti ng fo r G r ey C o ve rag e Grey Coverage with TopChic (1:1)

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Grey percentage

TopChic Lotion

Add N/NN

Target Color

Up to 30%

40 ml

15 ml

25 ml

Up to 60%

40 ml

20 ml

Up to 100%

40 ml

25 ml

15 ml

Grey Coverage with Colorance and Colorance Intensive (2:1) Grey percentage

N/NN-shade

Target Color

Up to 30%

5 ml

15 ml

30-50%

10 ml

50% and above

15 ml

5 ml

Grey Coverage with Shades EQ (1:1) Grey percentage

Other shade

Up to 25%

½ oz

1½ oz

25-50%

1 oz

50-75%

1½ oz

½ oz

75-100%

1¾ oz

¼ oz

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

Stop and Show Oﬀ When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show oﬀ ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve done better? What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-9

HIGHLIGHT Short Hair S h o r t H a i r H i g h l i g h t 

Date __________

HIGHLIGHT Short Hair

Concept: Strategic foil placement for women’s hair that is 4” or shorter

The or y ( 30 Mi n u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn strategic foil placement for short hair.

“We are going to asses the hairline, swirl patterns, cowlicks, the thickness of the, its texture, and more. We’ll also discuss some techniques for transitioning from lighter to darker hair. “We will finish the style with a TakeHome Prescription and a Mason Pearson flat brush blowout.” Present terminology and formula quiz.

(10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.) Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques. (20 minutes)

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes

Teach & Learn

n O s d n Ha Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

S h o r t Ha ir Hi g hli g ht Ap pli c at i on 1. Plan and section

2. Foil and application

Use either a horseshoe pattern or a foiled-oﬀ part for short hair.

Move through each section in a timely and eﬃcient way.

3. Process & tone (if needed)

4. Shampoo, style, & check

Tips and Tricks Take smaller sections for easier product placement For a natural look, place foils on the hairline and crown Follow the swirl pattern on the head to prevent lines Choose a stitch that will not leave lines on the head (regular stitch, skip/slice, or slice); placement is also crucial in preventing lines) Avoid the “zebra” and “leopard” looks (stripy or spotty all over the head

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve done better? What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-10

HIGHLIGHT Long Hair L o n g H a i r H i g h l i g h t 

Date __________

HIGHLIGHT Long Hair

Concept: To highlight long hair without leaving bands or marks caused by folding the foils

The or y ( 30 Mi n u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn strategic foil placement for long hair.

“We are going to create a highlight pattern using diagonal, horizontal, and vertical placement as well as weaving, skip/slice, and slice techniques learned in previous classes. We’ll also discuss some techniques for transitioning from lighter to darker hair. “Another thing to remember when highlighting is to make sure there is even saturation in the foil and to allow the hair to lay straight instead of

bunching up in the foil (this can cause lack of coverage, creating lines). “We will finish the style with a TakeHome Prescription and a Mason Pearson flat brush blowout.” Present terminology and formula quiz. (10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.) Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques. (20 minutes)

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes

Teach & Learn

n O s d n Ha Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

S h o r t Ha ir Hi g hli g ht Ap pli c at i on 1. Plan and section

2. Foil and application

Use either a horseshoe pattern or a foiled-oﬀ part for short hair.

Move through each section in a timely and eﬃcient way.

3. Process & tone (if needed)

4. Shampoo, style, & check

Tips and Tricks When hair is longer than the shoulder blades, consider taping foils together before starting your highlight Check for shorter layers. If the guest has really long hair and short layers on top, you must change your foil pattern to compensate. For example, if you did a basic highlight on short layers, the highlighted hair would only be light the head; be sure to check your guest’s hair beforehand. When approaching a highlight, always have an image in your head of what your end result will look like. Pick up the hair you want to be lighter and see where that hair starts on the head. With hair that is long but not superlong, you can foil without taping two foils together. The color should hold the foils in place. Boards are also helpful to keep even coverage when working with longer hair.

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve done better? What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-11

HIGHLIGHT Men’s M e n ’ s H i g h l i g h t 

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior

HIGHLIGHT Men’s

Concept: To create a highlight look in a more masculine and subtle way

The or y ( 30 Mi n u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn strategic foil placement for short hair.

“We will finish the style with a TakeHome Prescription and a Mason Pearson flat brush blowout.”

“The ideas behind a men’s highlight are to create a natural look, to create a worn-in look, or to create an intentional look, such a a bold streak. Your model will determine the technique you will use.

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques. (20 minutes)

“For this class, we will be creating a natural look using foils. Foils are used to create the other two looks of a men’s highlight.

Present terminology and formula quiz. (10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.)

________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes Foils

Teach & Learn

n O s d n Ha Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

M e n’s H i gh li gh t A pp l i ca ti o n 1. Plan

3. Foil

Decide where the highlights are going to go.

Place the foils accordingly.

2. Section

4. Rinse and finish

Part oﬀ the head for the easiest approach Complete the service with a color-safe to the head shape and where you decided shampoo and conditioner. Rinse, dry, and to place the foils. Move through each style. section in a timely and eﬃcient way.

Tips and Tricks When foiling short hair, you must place the foils according to how the hair falls. For example: When highlighting on a swirl hairline, you might place foils in a swirl pattern while keeping the middle of the swirl natural to hide any foil lines. When foiling short hair, make sure your stitch is weave is consistent to prevent the creation of a stripy look. Sometimes just a few foils are needed to create a great look. Less is more. Sometimes a comb and lightener can achieve a look that is more worn in instead of using foils

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve done better? What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

COLORAdvanced THEORY

C O L O R T H E O RY

 A d v a n c e d Color Theory

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-12

Advanced

Concepts: to expand your understanding of color formulations and start to bend the rules of formulation THE ORY ( 2 H ou r C l a s s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn the how to bend the rules we’ve previously used in our previous classes”

“We are going to discuss highlift color, such as the 11- and 12-series and Neutralights in Topchic. We’ll also touch on advanced application techniques using color blocking, double process blondes, and tint backs.” Begin class.

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Color book Color Cards Color tableau Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz

TINTING AND LIGHTENING

Color Directions N

Natural

Natural Extra

Gold

Gold Natural

Gold Beige

Brown/Beige

Brown/Beige Gold

Beige Natural

Brown Copper

Red Brown

Copper Natural

Copper Beige

Copper

Copper Gold

Copper Red

11P

Orange Red

S 12B

Red Orange

Violet

Violet Red

Red

Red Red

The Color Wheel

The GOLDWELL Color Circle

1 2 BG 11GB 10 G B 11 G 1 0B G 10 G 9G B 8 GB 9G 8 7 G B 7B G G 7G 6G B 6B G 5GB 6 5BG G

7K B K 8K

10B

7KR

4B R 5 B 6RB

7R B

80 R 70R 6K G

6N 6NA 7NP 7NA 8NP 8NA 9NA

11N

6SB 7A 7SB 8A 8SB 9A

10A Green Ash

N N N N/ 4 N /N N 3N

9 KG 8K G 7KG

N 9B B 8

6 N 7B /N 5

GG 10 GN 10B 9 N /N N 9GN 8N/NN 7 N/N N 8K

10 N

8RO

B 7M B M 6 B 5M

12B

6RO 6KR

11B

8RB

12 G N

Pearl

Natural Pearl

Natural Ash

Ash

Matte Brown

Beige Silver

Silver Brown/Beige

5VR

R 6R R

6 7R R R

4V A

4R 5 V R 5 V 6R R 6V

Red Violet

S 10B

3VR

As 10P hA sh

Blu eA sh

11V

Violet Ash

10V

The GOLDWELL Color Circle consists of inner and outer circles. In the inner circle, you will find all shades consisting of mainly brown components. In the colored, mid-segments of the circles, all cool, controlling, warm, and fashion shades are located. Each line represents a level, working from the center to the outside – each 2-10 series shade Positioned in the very outeron circles are the from special darkest highlift series, to their special lightening and qualities. is positioned a level todue lightest. According tocontrolling the Universal Color Law and the Color Circle, opposite colors have a neutralizing eﬀect on each other when mixed together.

The GOLDWELL Color Circle consists of inner and outer circles. In the inner circle, you will find all shades consisting of mainly brown components. In the colored, mid-segments of the circles, all cool controlling and warm fashion shades are located. Each line represents a level, working from the center to the outside – each 2-10 series shade is positioned on a level from darkest to lightest. According to the Universal Color Law and the Color Circle, opposite colors have a neutralizing effect on each other when mixed together.

Positioned in the very outer circles are the special high-lift series, due to their special lightening and controlling qualities.

6GB

5GB

8N/ NN

7N/ NN

6N/ NN

4N/ NN

7GB

9GN

9N/ NN

5N/ NN

8GB

10GN

9GB

10GB

10B

BrownBeige

10G

GoldBeige

10N

GoldNatural

Gold

Natural/ Natural Extra

N/NN BN/BK

RB KN/KB

7RR

6RR

5RV

MAX RED

6BK

7BN

9BN

10BN

6RV

5BG

6BG

7BG

10BG

6RO

8RO

5RB

6RB

7RB

8RB

7KB

8KN

V/VR

6KG

7KG

8KG

9KG

6KR

7KR

7OR

8OR

3VR

5VR

6VR

10V

Copper- Copper- Orange- Violet/ Gold Red Red Violet-Red

MIX SHADES

BeigeCopperBrown- Natural/ Natural/ Red-Brown Copper Gold BrownCopperKupfer Beige

Red

6NA

7NA

8NA

9NA

10A

Ash

Permanent Hair Color

6NP

7NP

8NP

10P

Pearl/ NaturalPearl-Natural Ash

P/NP

5MB

6MB

7MB

MattBrown

6SB

7SB

8SB

10BS

BeigeSilver/ SilverBrown

BS/SB

11A

11B

CLEAR

Blonding Blonding Cream Cream Ash

11P

11GB

12BS

12BG

Demi-Permanent Hair Color

11V

11N

11G

12BN

12GN

HIGHLIFT BLONDES

GOLDWELL Shade Range atat a Glance Goldwell Shade Range a Glance

Formulating with Goldwell Hair Analysis

L ev el s of C o lo r 10 Extra Light Blonde 9 Very Light Blonde 8 Light Blonde 7 Medium Blonde 6 Dark Blonde

5 Light Brown

4 Medium Brown 3 Dark Brown

2 Black

Formulation Blueprint Using the Color Consultation Form

ﬀective communication between the colorist and the client is extremely important to determine the needs and desires of the client, and to develop the ideal hair color formula.

Selecting the Appr

opriate Topchic Lo

Use the Color Consultation Form to formulate your color.

D ev el op er S e l ec t i o n The strength of lotion should be selected according to the required degree of lift.

Level of the Target Sh ade

Darker than the na tur al ba se shade or ex isting shade

* Wi th the addition of Blonding Cr eam **Blonding Cr eam is not recommend ed

To pchic Lo tio n Str en gth

3 % (10 vol .)

6 % (20 vol .)

9 % (30 vol .)

12 % (40 vol .)

with 12 Serie s

Re co mmen de d Us e Topchic 2–10 Shad es Going darker than ba se lev el Toning Pr elighten ed Hair Topchic 2–10 Optimum Gr ey/ Wh ite Co ver age Topchic Tint Back s

Topchic 2–10 Topchic 11 Serie s*

Topchic 12 Serie s**

11- and 12-Series High-lift Blondes for Hair Levels 6-9 &

NeutraLights High-lift-Control Color for Dark Hair Levels 2-5 &

Color Blocking Discussion Points: Can be used for dimensional colors Can be subtle or extreme &

Double-Process Blondes Discussion Points: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Bleach and Toneâ&#x20AC;? Using lightener or high lift and then toned farther to get results &

Tint-Backs Gold N

10N

10NA

10A

9NA

9NN

Copper GB

10GB

10GK

9GB

Red

9KG

10B

10V

10P

9RG

9GN

8NA

8NP

9VR 8GB

8NN

8KG

8KR

8OR

8RR

8RB

7KG

7KR

7OR

7RG

7RB

8KN

7NA

7NP

7GB

7NN

7BN

6NA

6NP

6KG

6KR

6RB

6NN

6VR

5VR

6BK

5RB

5NN

5BG

4NN 3N

3VR

3NN 2N

Discussion Points: Adding pigment back in the hair when going 2 or more levels darker Describe how to use the tint-back chart &

Formulations Go over diďŹ&#x20AC;erent formulations mixing high lift with regular Topchic Go over diďŹ&#x20AC;erent toners for double process blondes Go over formulas for tint-backs using the tint-back chart Formulas, formulas, formulas &

Existing Level When assessing the existing level, understand that not all level 6â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s are the same, for example. Consider the following: Were they blonde as a child? Do they have dark eyes or eyebrows? Is the hair lighter around the hairline?

Notes &

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-13

HIGHLIGHT & SINGLE PROCESS “Wet-on-Wet” cess S i n g l e P r o H i g h l i g h t 

HIGHLIGHT

Date __________

& S I N G L E P RO C E S S

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation

Wet-on-Wet

Concept: Doing a base color at the same time as highlighting (or low-lighting) the ends

The or y ( 30 Mi n u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to find the best and quickest way to cover the base (usually grey) while adding dimension throughout the ends with highlights and/or lowlights.”

“We will finish the style with a TakeHome Prescription and a Mason Pearson flat brush blowout.” Present terminology and formula quiz. (10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.) Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques. (20 minutes)

One Week Before •Review entire educator packet. •Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class. •Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets. •Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes Foils

Teach & Learn

n O s d n Ha Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

“ W e t- o n-W et ” A ppl i c at i on T e c hn iq ue s 1. Do the base color first, then go back through and highlight/lowlight Lightener should typically not be used. The overlapping of a high-volume color with a lower-volume lightener can cause lighter bands in the hair.

2. Take sections & apply the base, adding highlights/lowlights as you go A slightly harder technique with better end results

3. Highlight/lowlight first, then go back through with base color Usually the base is done with a demi-permanent color to shine & deepen the natural hair that has little to no grey

Tips and Tricks When doing highlights/lowlights, first make sure to have the foils securely in place so they don’t slip or bleed Always have a clear foil pattern in mind before starting When you need to get your highlights closer to the scalp while doing technique one, use a towel to wipe oﬀ the excess color and the base of the foil to get better saturation of your highlight formula For a blended look, “marry” your base color to the highlight color Usually an overall glaze or toner to shine everything up and really finish the color is needed after a base/highlight is done

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve done better? What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-14, 15, 16

DIMENSIONAL COLOR Red, Brunette, Blonde

Dimensional

 C o l o r

Date __________

DIMENSIONAL

COLOR

e, Blonde Red, Brunett

Concept: Creating an all-over color that has multiple tones of the base color by using lighter and darker pieces or cooler and warmer tones on the same head

The or y ( 30 Mi n u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn how to create dimensional color using varying tones of the same base or cooler and warmer tones on the same head.

“Using the model’s skin tone, decide which color would look best. Then choose complementary colors that will enhance the base color. “Generally, the added colors will also complement the model’s skin tone, but be aware that sometimes it might just enhance the hair color and not the model’s skin tone. When this is the

case, make sure to keep that tone away from the skin. “We will finish the style with a TakeHome Prescription and a Mason Pearson flat brush blowout.” Present terminology and formula quiz. (10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.) Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques. (20 minutes)

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes Foils

Di m en siona l C ol o r A p p l i c at i o n 1. Highlight/lowlight on natural hair Generally staying within two levels lighter or darker than the natural hair. Finish with an all-over toner to shine everything up.

Teach & Learn

-O Hands

2. Base color, then “wet-on-wet” highlight/lowlight Follow up with a toner to bring it all together visually.

3. Combination technique Combining techniques one and two using block color and highlights and lowlights.

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation

Dimensional Color Tips and Tricks Many times a cool tone next to a warm tone gives a beautiful “natural” look When working with multiple tones in the hair, you must remember the blending of tones overall will look diﬀerent from just the individual tones themselves If using bleach, picking a lighter version of the base color a toner is always a safe bet Never think that the base formula is going to be the right (same) formula for the mid-shaft and ends Always look for a color formula option first before reaching for lightener and toning

Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

Tips & tricks for reds, brunettes, and blondes Reds

Small sections of darker, cooler red tones make a coppery red really pop Sometimes even a hint of black in cooler reds is needed to really make the color stand out Alternating ends colors that are just one level diﬀerent gives shine without looking too dimensional (ex: 6KG/ 7KG) ________________________ ________________________ ________________________ ________________________ ________________________ ________________________ ________________________

Brunettes

Blondes

Always use a golden brown tone to add shine and lightness to brown hair

For double process blondes, create zones on the head to tone some warm and some cool

Many times you place a darker brown next to the skin to complement but leave lighter pieces away from the skin to enhance color but not wash out the model’s skin tone

Even with just heavy highlights you can tone the ends with both warm and cool tones

_________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________

When low-lighting, use a diﬀerent color on the base and don’t take the color all the way to the ends _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-17

ive Color

TINT-BACK Corrective Color Date __________

C o r r e c t T i n t - B a c k 

ady e R t e G

T I N T -B A C K

Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation

olor Corrective C

Concept: Darkening the hair two or more levels, requiring the application of additional “filler” pigment

The or y ( 30 Mi n u t e s ) !

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes Foils

P re - C ol o r T r e at m e n t ack? b t n i t sa What i

colorglow [IQ] Structure Equalizer balances structural diﬀerences through conditioning ingredients to promote even color results on damaged and porous hair. The hair structure may vary from scalp to ends, depending on the length and condition of the hair. When hair is treated with oxidative hair color, the oxidative pigments tend to concentrate in the porous areas of the hair, creating an uneven color result. System Pre-Color equalizes the porosity levels in damaged hair with cationic polymers, which encourage the even distribution of oxidative pigments, achieving more even color results.

•

A tint-back occurs when a guest wants to take their hair color from a blonde to a color that is at least three levels darker. A tint-back is a correction for a single process blonde, not highlights. When performing a tint-back, you must consider the porosity of the hair, what the guest wants and what can be achieved.

–

Level of Desired Result

Level of Current Color

Level 10

Level 7

4 or darker

Features & Benefits: • Balances structural diﬀerences with conditioning ingredients • Promotes even color results • Easy application spray • Convenient – no additional processing time or rinsing needed • Pleasant fragrance • Package Sizes: Available in a 150mL spray suﬃcient for approximately 8-10 applications.

colorglow [IQ] Instant Structure Repair balances even extreme structural diﬀerences in damaged hair. It has the same features and benefits but in a much more concentrated cream.

•

Pre-pigmentation System Pre-Pigmentation replaces missing pigments in the hair for superior color results. System Pre-Pigmentation is the ideal pretreatment for faded base shades or tint-backs more than two levels. Pre-Pigmentation replaces missing pigments with gentle cream color in the directions of gold, copper and red. Use Pre-Pigmentation when your guest changes hair color often, your guest’s base shade has faded due to environmental stress (UV rays, chlorine, etc.), or your guest wants to go a shade more than two levels darker than the existing one. Pre-pigmentation comes in 3 color directions available for selection in line with the target color, as shown in the application chart below. Gold N

10N

10NA

10A

9NA

9NN 8N

Copper GB

10GB

10GK

9GB

9KG

10B

10V

8NA

8NP

8GB

8KG

8KR

8OR

8RR

8RB

7KG

7KR

7OR

7RG

7RB

8KN 7NA

7NP

7GB

7BN 6NA

6NP

6KG

6KR

6RB

6VR

5VR

6BK 5A

5NN

5RB

5B 5BG

4NN 3N

3VR

3NN 2N

P 10P

9VR

6NN 5N

9RG

7NN 6N

9GN

8NN 7N

Red

Teach & Learn

P r e -p i g me nt Ap pl i c at i on

n O s d n Ha

Simple steps for better results 1. Select the appropriate Pre-Pigmentation shade from the application chart. 2. Using a Colorance applicator bottle, mix 2 parts water with 1 part Pre-Pigmentation. Shake to emulsify. Apply product immediately. 3. When using a hair color product that is applied to dry hair (Topchic, Colorance Color Plus), apply prepigmentation mixture to dry hair. When using a hair color product that is applied to damp hair (Colorance Acid Color), apply pre-pigmentation mixture to thoroughly towel-dried hair. Blot excess. 4. Comb through to ensure even distribution. Do not rinse. 5. Apply the selected hair color product according to directions. After the selected color mixture is applied, comb through to ensure an even color result. 6. Process as directed. Note: • It is not necessary to pre-pigment the re-growth of dark, untreated hair – doing so may cause color to look too intense

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Quick, gentle and effective • With System Pre-Pigmentation, it is no longer necessary to pre-pigment with Topchic, Colorance Acid Color or Colorance Soft Color. In fact, results are improved with System Pre-Pigmentation: • Non-oxidative dyestuffs enhance color brilliance (compared to pre-pigmentation with Topchic) • Oxidative dyestuffs improve durability (compared to pre-pigmentation with Colorance Soft Color) • Moderate pH makes it more gentle to the hair (compared to pre-pigmentation with Topchic)

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve done better? What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN COL-18

Bleach and Tone

LONDE D O U B L E -P R O C E S S nBe

Double-Proc

de e s s  B l o n

DOUBLE-PROCESS BLONDE

o Bleach and T

Concepts: Using lightener to touch up the base with the intent on matching the pre-lightened ends, then applying the proper toner to seal the cuticle, acidify the hair, and balance out the color for desired tonality

The or y ( 30 Mi n u t e s )

and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn the proper application for a double-process blonde.

“We’ll begin by using lightener to lift the root color to match the ends before finishing with toner for overall color balance and tone. “We will finish the style with a TakeHome Prescription and a Mason Pearson flat brush blowout.” Present terminology and formula quiz.

(10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.) Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques. (20 minutes)

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Materials Day Of Class Student packets Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: (8) matching hair clips Students: (8) matching hair clips each Water bottles Color bottles, bowls & brushes Foils

! q

â&#x153;´

Hair color can be lifted up to seven levels lighter than the existing base shade depending on the chosen lightener. Lightening reduces and changes natural as well as artificial color pigments, in various stages of oxidation to eliminate color within the pigments and lighten the hair as a result. Bleaches are also mixed with H2O2 to generate the reactive oxygen necessary for the lifting process. The alkalinity of the bleaching powder ensures that the reactive oxygen is directed toward achieving the required degree of lift. Any alkaline residue that may remain in the hair after bleaching must be neutralized by the application of an acidic conditioner or treatment.

When to use

â&#x153;´

Features and Benefits â&#x153;´ â&#x153;´

â&#x153;´

â&#x153;´ â&#x153;´ â&#x153;´ â&#x153;´

Lightening hair up to 7 levels Highlighting with foils and other creative methods Clear or pastel results are desired for darkerFeatures hair & Benefits: Mixing

Oxycur Platin

On scalp application

1 Level Scoop (25g)

OďŹ&#x20AC; scalp application

1 Level Scoop (25g)

Mixing

Oxycur Platin Ultra When To Use:

On scalp application

1 Level Scoop (25g)

OďŹ&#x20AC; scalp application

1 Level Scoop (25g)

1. 2.

H2O2 separates into water and oxygen that oxidizes color pigments inside the hair.

Si lkLif t*

Features and benefits â&#x153;´ Fast powerful lift with perfect results â&#x153;´ Dust-free blue powder bleach for lifting the hair up to 7 levels â&#x153;´ Cationic Polymers for best possible protection of the hair and improved combability Package sizes: â&#x153;´ Mixability without clumping â&#x153;´ Creamier consistency to prevent drying out

â&#x153;´ â&#x153;´

3. 4. 5.

Oxycur Platin Ultra

Oxycur Platin

Do not use 40 Volume (12%) Lotion 5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 20 ml of Topchic Blonding Cream may be added to mixture for a creamier consistency as well as a slower process, but a more even lightening eďŹ&#x20AC;ect Blend to a creamy consistency Apply mixture evenly to hair Process at room temperature until desired lightness is achieved

Strong and fast lifting of up to 7 levels Conditioning and structural balancing during the lightening process due to ShieldTechnology and SilkproteinComplex Intensive Conditioning Serum adds additional care for stressed, fine and previously color-treated hair Ultra creamy consistency for a smooth working mass, with significantly less swelling than other lighteners Pleasant fragrance Easy to use, precise dosage, and clean dispensing Versatile and ideal for on- and oďŹ&#x20AC;-scalp applications 2 Lighteners: Strong for lifting up to 7 levels for natural, color-treated darker bases & more resistant hair types; Gentle for ammonia-free lifting up to 5 levels for lighter bases and less-resistant hair types

Features and benefits â&#x153;´ Dust-free white bleachlightening: granules Powerful Fo optimum safe,forfast and gentle control and Ox Improved Oxycur Platin Dust-Free gentle to POWDER BLEACH WITH IMPROVED 0LATIN 0LUS 4HE BLUE

DUST FREE lift HIGH up PERFORMANCE /XY &ORMULA PROVIDES FAST AND EFFECTIVE LIFT WITH MAXIMUM POSSIBLE PROTECTION OF THE seven levels lift The creamy consistency is easy to apply and work with and meets the requiremen even the most demanding colorist. The risk of clumping and drying out is now a â&#x153;´ No Ammonium of the past. The swelling of the product in the bowl is kept to a minimum. Persulphate â&#x153;´ Contains Silicon Available in aPolymers 500g container sufficient for approximately Availa Package 20 sizes: applications, and a 1000g container approximately 40 applications. â&#x153;´ Contains WheatforProtein â&#x153;´ Pleasant fragrance â&#x153;´ Dust-free dispensing and The w Tip: business. Satisfied clients are the best foundation for a successful proces mixing %XPERIENCE A NEW DIMENSION OF HIGHLIFT PERFORMANCE WITH /XYCUR 0LATIN $UST &REE

â&#x153;´

TO ITS ESPECIALLY EFFECTIVE PERFORMANCE /XYCUR 0LATIN IS PERFECTLY SUITABLE FOR FAS EFFECTIVE HIGHLIFT ACTION )NDEPENDENT OF THE TECHNIQUE USED /XYCUR 0LATIN LIFTS U levels and achieves clear blonde results. Conditioning polymers guarantee ultima s $US Features protection of the hair during the lightening process. & Benefits:

On and oďŹ&#x20AC; scalp applications to 7 To pre-lighten hair before s #ON toning s #ON s 0LEA â&#x153;´ Decolorizing previously tinted s $US s )MPROVED 0LATIN hair0LUS &ORMULA FOR A FAST POWERFUL LIFT WITH PERFECT RESULTS s %AS â&#x153;´ â&#x153;´

Note: Oxycur Platin Dust-Free puts you into the spotlight promoting your expertise s .O ! using a product that allows a fast service and provides brilliant results everytime.

s $UST FREE BLUE POWDER BLEACH FOR LIFTING THE HAIR UP TO LEVELS s s #ATIONIC 0OLYMERS FOR BEST POSSIBLE PROTECTION OF THE HAIR AND IMPROVED combability Topchic Lotion s $UST FREE MEASURING s %ASY AND COMFORTABLE TO APPLY AND WORK WITH 35mL (3%),without 20 (6%) Volume s s NEW: Even better 10 mixability clumping When To Use: s s NEW: Improved creamier consistency to prevent drying out s s NEW: Cutting edge inspired design 35mL 10 (3%), 20 (6%), 30 (9%) Volume s s !3 ÂŠ +033 )NC

g n i n e t Ligh

Ox y c ur Pl a t in Ox y c ur Pl a t in U l t r a

Topchic Lotion

s s s s s

,IGHTENING HAIR UP TO LEVELS /N AND OFF SCALP APPLICATIONS 35mL 10 (3%), 20 (6%) Volume (IGHLIGHTING WITH FOILS CAPS AND OTHER CREATIVE METHODS #LEAR OR PASTEL RESULTS ARE DESIRED ON DARKER HAIR 4O 35mL PRELIGHTEN PRIOR 20 TO A (6%), #OLORANCE %LUMEN 10HAIR (3%), 30OR(9%) Volume overlay for an avant-garde result s $ECOLORIZING PREVIOUSLY TINTED HAIR CORRECTIVE WORK WITH BLEACH WASH

6. 7. 8. 9.

Check frequently during processing to reach desired lightness DO NOT USE ANY HEAT SOURCE Once complete, rinse thoroughly Shampoo and condition using a suitable shampoo and conditioner to neutralize residual alkalinity in the hair; style as desired or continue with a toning process for best results if necessary

Mixing &

SilkLift

Processing

Lightener

Developer

Serum

On scalp

1 Level

35ml 10

1 Tube 2ml

application

Scoop

(3%), 20

for

(25g)

(6%) Vol.

stressed,

OďŹ&#x20AC; scalp

35ml 10

fine, colortreated/

application

(3%), 20

lightened

(6%), 30

hair

(9%) Vol.

*SilkLift instructions are the same as those of Oxycur Platin & Ultra with the exclusion of the ability to use Blonding Cream.

.%7

,IGH /N A (IGH #LEA 4O P ove s $EC

Toner Services Colorance Blonde Toning Often when hair is lightened it may still require a toner to achieve the desired target shade. In such cases, Colorance Acid Color oﬀers the best possible care for the hair and consequently the most durable result. However, before the application of Colorance Acid Color the hair needs to be treated with a suitable conditioner to neutralize any residual alkalinity in the hair. Hair must be damp (toweldried) or be sprayed with colorglow [IQ] Structure Equalizer Spray. Colorance Acid shades 10V, 10A, 10P, 10BS, 9NA, 10N, 9N as single shades or in combination are ideal to produce clear neutral or cool blonde overtones and to subdue warmth for clear blondes. Colorance Acid shades from levels 9 – 10 with warm tones such as 10G, 10GN, 10BG, 10BN, 9BN, 10B, 9GB to add soft, warm glowing tones to neutral or over-lightened hair. All Colorance Acid shades from levels 9 – 10 to add gloss, gentle reflective hues and smoother hair feeling. Colorance Clear is also ideal to glaze and improve hair texture, without altering the color character (tone). When you use Colorance, shine, color brilliance and condition are provided to the highlighted or pre-lightened hair without additional damage or stress. The final result shows improved color clarity, manageability and durability compared to traditional methods of highlighting and toning. The outstanding quality of blondes profiles the skill and expertise of colorists in all areas of blonde services. Blonde clients’ expectations are fully met regarding color and condition. Additional interim services are possible to recommend as part of an ongoing full service and in-salon blonde care program. Colorance creates the confident justification of higher pricing for services due to the high quality of blonde results and hair condition. 10G

10GN

10BG

10BN

9BN

10B

9GB

10N

9NA

10BS

10P

10A

Least Controlling

Most Controlling

Shades EQ can be used to tone pre-lightened or highlighted hair. Shades EQ is mixed in a 1:1 ratio of Color Gloss to Processing Solution; always mix equal parts and use immediately. Standard timing is 20 minutes room temperature. Shades EQ tones 09NB, 09N, 09V, 09B, 09GN, 08GN, 08T, and 09T as single shades or in combination are ideal to produce clear neutral or cool blonde overtones and to subdue warmth for clear blondes. Shades EQ tones in levels 8 – 9 with warm tones such as 09AA, 09RB, 09C, 08C, 08CG, 08WG, 09G, and 09GB add soft, warm glowing tones to neutral or over-lightened hair. Color intensity in all Shades EQ formulas can be diluted by adding Crystal Clear 000. Check the back of the Shades Manual for toner formula suggestions. 08C

Least Controlling

08CG 08WG

09G

09GB

09NB

Level Underlying pigment 2 Black (none exposed) 3 Darkest orange 4 Dark orange 5 Medium orange 6 Light orange 7 Extra-light orange or dark gold 8 Medium gold

09RB

As hair is light ened , th ere will be visible changes in ton e and depth

10V

Shades EQ Blonde Toning

09AA

S ta g es of L ift

09N

09V

09B

08GN

09GN

08T

09T

Most Controlling

(yellow-orange) 9 Light gold 10 Extra-light gold or yellow possible You must lift hair to the desired level before toning

Teach & Learn

n O s d n Ha Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

D oub le - Pr o ce s s Bl o nd e Ap pli c ati on 1.

Mix and use appropriate lightener to lift the hair to the appropriate level of lightness to achieve the desired end result; do not use heat.

Rinse thoroughly. Shampoo, rinse and re-acidify by conditioning with appropriate products. Rinse. Thoroughly towel dry.

Measure, mix, and apply toner according to the guidelines laid out by the product line.

Comb through with a wide-tooth comb to ensure even distribution.

Process for 5 to 25 minutes (without using additional heat sources) depending on the color intensity desired.

Do not shampoo the toner out. Rinse. Condition with an appropriate leave-in conditioner for best results.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout. While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

Tips and Tricks You must lift the hair to the desired level before toning Double-check the level of the pre-lightened hair Toner should be the same level as the pre-lightened hair Accuracy and speed during application are essential for even lifting Often times the only way to properly lift the ends before the roots on a virgin application is in foils Always start the application in the darkest area of the hair and do the hairline last Toners can also be used for Blonde refinement after highlighting Refreshing the color tone and shine in-between regular highlighting services Re-glossing lightened and natural hair in-between highlighting Toning unwanted warmth at any level (i.e, warm brown to cool brown without changing the level) Adding warmth at any level

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve done better? What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!