Ben Rock for TRIM Classic Barber & Legendary Beauty

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

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LESSON PLAN HC-1

HAIRCUTTING Theory

Haircutting

 T h e o r y

Date __________

H A I RC U T T I N G Theory

Concepts: Developing a plan, knowing your landscape, and essential cutting techniques, as well as how to diagram haircuts THE ORY ( 2 H ou r C l a s s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn the essential theory necessary to be a successful haircutter.”

H

“We are going to learn the basic of developing a haircutting plan from start to finish; how to examine the landscape of a haircut by considering head shape, growth patterns, and hair textures; and finishing with some essential techniques necessary for every haircut.

“We’ll also go over The Diagram Kit, a tool you’ll be using in each of your upcoming haircutting classes.”

Begin class.

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet.

•Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class.

•Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets.

•Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class

The Plan •

Face Shape: Creating the “beauty mask”

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Perimeter: Length & finish of edges

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Face Frame: Fringe plus face framing pieces

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Texture: Curly, wavy, straight? Coarse grey texture (crinkly)?

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Interior Shape: What layering system(s) to use?

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Style: Worn curly and/or straight? Full or sleek?

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Accent: Signature pieces

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Knowing Your Landscape: Head Shape Top: The area directly behind the forehead – the uppermost portion of the scalp.

Parietal Ridge: The point where the top of the head curves downward to become the sides of the head. The term parietal ridge refers to the bony ridge along the upper sides of the head. The Parietal Ridge begins approximately three finger-widths above the top of the ear.

Temple: The Temples are the small areas just above and in front of the ears on each side of the head. They are pulse points for blood flow and flex points for the facial muscles.

Crown: The Crown refers to the area at the upper back of the skull. The Crown begins at the point where the top of the head begins to curve downward to the back of the head and ends at the point just above the Occipital bone. It is a semicircular area.

Occipital Bone: The Occipital Bone is the small bony protrusion at the base of the skull where the skull joins to the neck. It can be easily felt through the skin of the scalp at the base of the skull.

Nape: The Nape area refers to the sections of the head from the Occipital Bone to the bottom hairline of the neck and extending to the hairlines on each side behind the ears.

Notes

Knowing Your Landscape: Head Shape •

Finding The Truth About “Where The Hair Lives”

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The “Laying On Of Combs” Technique

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Fringe

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Desired Part-Line

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Crown

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•Nape $

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•Quirk - Above Ear $

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Tex t ur e

e Textur

Texture 2

Texture 1

Texture 4

3

Technique Basics •

Combing and sectioning

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Finger position

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Scissor holding

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Correct tension

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Scissor over Comb

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Style: Worn curly and/or straight? Full or sleek?

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Accent: Signature pieces

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Additional Notes

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

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LESSON PLAN HC-03

SQUARE & CRESCENT

S Q UA R E

& CRESCENT

ers s c e n t  L a y Square & Cre

Layers

Layers

Concepts: One-length perimeter, vertical layers, keeping the corner (square) vs. taking the corner (crescent)

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn the techniques of Square and Crescent Layers.

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“The goal of these layering techniques is to release weight and create optimal movement through the cut while leaving the feeling of “length” on top.

Present terminology quiz.

(10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.)

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s (2) techniques.

(20 minutes)

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet.

•Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class.

•Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets.

•Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class Previously cut and finished mannequin # HC-03 Demo mannequin w/tripod Student packets & Diagram Kits Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Students: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Water bottles

EDU CATOR D E M O ( 4 5 M I N UT ES ) 1. Cut the perimeter 2. Section the hair off the occipital Section off the hair above the occipital area.

Take out a vertical section as your first cutting guideline.

This is one of the most important sections in the haircut. It is the main guideline to the length of your haircut.

Teach & Learn

n

-O Hands

To achieve the correct angle, you will need to tilt your client’s head into an upright position.

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

To achieve the best result, keep your body parallel to the head, angle your fingers correctly and use the fine teeth of your comb to achieve maximum tension in the hair.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Let Student Consult First 3. Pull the section “to a wall” and cut vertically Pull out from the head the vertical section to be cut.

Take your guideline from the nape section. Hold the guideline between your fingers and pull the section “to the wall.”

The bottom edge of the haircut will still fall to the current length, but the middle layers are cut to allow the hair’s natural wave and curl to better form, and the hair will be styled with more texture and movement from the root.

4. Square or Crescent?

For square layer, pull the section as if you were standing in a box.

For crescent layers, cut each section as though you were standing in a round room.

5. Check for balance

Then ask the student some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly.

Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

Practical Section, Stop, Wait Have students section head off, clip, stop and wait for next instruction. As they move through the class, the students should do precisely what you instruct on each section, then stop and wait until others complete that section. If they have finished their section correctly, they may move around the room observing the others until the next directive is given.

Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout.

While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

Tips and Tricks • Dropping the perimeter will leave a strong, defined bottom, while using the perimeter as a guide will give a softer feeling.

• When using upward square layers, this is considered a “shag” (ex: Farah Fawcett).

When it’s not pulled up to square, it is a “klute” (ex: Jane Fonda).

• Drop the perimeter around the ear to avoid a mullet.

• Surface layers can be used to tailor the shape.

Farrah Fawcett’s shag

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

Jane Fonda’s klute

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

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LESSON PLAN HC-04

HEAD-SHAPED

H E A D -S H A P E D Layers

d-Shaped Square & Hea

 L a y e r s

Layers

Concepts: to create texture throughout the shape; to soften the perimeter, making it more feminine

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn the technique of Head-Shaped Layers. These are also known as Round Layers.

H

“To approach this haircut, you must decide on an overall length in the crown or on the nape, and then with that guide create an even round cut throughout the head shape.”

Present terminology quiz.

(10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.)

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s

(2) techniques.

(20 minutes)

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet.

•Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class.

•Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets.

•Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class Previously cut and finished mannequin # HC-04 Demo mannequin w/tripod Student packets & Diagram Kits Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Students: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Water bottles

Ste p-by -ste p

Teach & Learn

1. Decide desired length in the crown using a small diamond parting

2. Then using a small traveling guide, follow small, diagonal, pie-shaped sections

3. The guide should start at the crown and move to the perimeter

4. Finish with tailoring pieces

Tips and Tricks

n

-O Hands

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation

Make sure you notice the head shape under each section

Move as a Group

Knowing the rounds of the head is key to creating a true round shape

Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Irregular areas to watch for: below the occipital bone, parietal ridge, sides above the ear

Let Student Consult First

Tailoring the bangs and around the face are important in keeping this cut modern and up to date

R E V I E W & P RE P A R E F O R NEX T WEEK

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your AHA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve What did you love

done better?

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Practical Section, Stop, Wait Have students section head off, clip, stop and wait for next instruction. As they move through the class, the students should do precisely what you instruct on each section, then stop and wait until others complete that section. If they have finished their section correctly, they may move around the room observing the others until the next directive is given.

Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

about this?

What questions did

Then ask the student some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly.

Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout.

While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN HC-05

u

COMBINATION LAYERS for Men and Women

C o m b i n a t i o n 

L a y e r s

Date __________

C O M B I N AT I O N

L AY E R S

Women for Men and

Concepts: to create a layered cut for masculine and feminine shapes

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn how to combine layering techniques to masculine and feminine shapes for men and women.

H

“You’ll create wispy, rounder, softer shaper for ladies, while maintaining heavier, square, angular shapes for guys.”

Present terminology quiz.

(10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.)

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s (2) techniques.

(20 minutes)

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet.

•Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class.

•Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets.

•Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class Student packets & Diagram Kits Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Students: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Water bottles

Ste p-by -ste p

Teach & Learn

1. Decide desired length of the perimeter

2. Decide on the shape and decide on your layering technique

3. Cut the shape, deciding when to transition from one layering technique to another

4. Finish by tailoring the cut to the person’s face shape

Tips and Tricks Leave a bit heavier in the back and sides Have a harder line that frames the jaw line Leave long-haired guys shaggy over the ear but cleaned up For girls Bangs (fringe) can make or break the cut; always have face fringe as an option to tailor the cut Decide if surface layers are best or, if the hair is thick enough, that more aggressive layering techniques are needed

R E V I E W & P RE P A R E F O R NEX T WEEK

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your AHA! moment? gest challenge?

What could you ha ve What did you love

done better?

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Let Student Consult First Then ask the student some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly.

Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

Practical Section, Stop, Wait Have students section head off, clip, stop and wait for next instruction. As they move through the class, the students should do precisely what you instruct on each section, then stop and wait until others complete that section. If they have finished their section correctly, they may move around the room observing the others until the next directive is given.

Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

about this?

What questions did

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation

For guys

What was your big

n

-O Hands

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout.

While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN HC-06

u

COMBINATION LAYERS with Razor

C o m b i n a t i o n 

L a y e r s

Date __________

C O M B I N AT I O N

L AY E R S

with Razor

Concepts: Apply razoring techniques to establish a new perimeter, incorporate subtle layering, and create your “signature” for around the face

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn how to successfully use a razor to cut hair and then use that razor to create a long-layered haircut on a model.

H

“You’re going to create a one-length haircut with the illusion of movement by using subtle layers. This will give the hair a thicker look. The subtle layers will leave weight in the ends while giving movement to the cut.

Present terminology quiz.

(10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.)

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s (2) techniques.

(20 minutes)

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet.

•Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class.

•Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets.

•Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class Student packets & Diagram Kits Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: Cutting shears, razor, and (8) matching hair clips Students: Cutting shears, razor, and (8) matching hair clips Student Mannequins and stands Water bottles

Ste p-by -ste p

Teach & Learn

1. Section the hair ear to ear, top part to nape.

2. From the nape take horizontal sections and establish the new perimeter.

3. Razor each section after the first a little longer than the previous section.

4. Once the perimeter is established, create a middle guide on top.

5. Over-direct the next sections to the center guide, razoring each one a little longer than the previous.

6. Create your signature for around the face.

n

-O Hands

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group

Tips and Tricks Heel to the left, tip to the right.

The blade faces up and away when razoring layers above the head.

Start wrist movement to get your rhythm before you even begin razoring the hair.

Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Let Student Consult First Then ask the student some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly.

Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

Practical

R E V I E W & P RE P A R E F O R NEX T WEEK

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your AHA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve What did you love

done better?

Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Section, Stop, Wait Have students section head off, clip, stop and wait for next instruction. As they move through the class, the students should do precisely what you instruct on each section, then stop and wait until others complete that section. If they have finished their section correctly, they may move around the room observing the others until the next directive is given.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout.

While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

LESSON PLAN HC-07

u

CURLY TEXTURE xture C u r l y  T e

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior

C U R LY

TEXTURE

Concepts: How to approach curly hair and the curl pattern to execute a curly haircut

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn how to approach curly hair and the curl pattern.

H

“In curly hair, basic haircutting theory still applies; however, the actual length and the hanging length will differ tremendously. Pay careful attention to the curl pattern and hair growth. Curly hair will amplify any shape it is given, so cut accordingly to control volume.”

Present terminology quiz.

(10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.)

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s (2) techniques.

(20 minutes)

________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet.

•Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class.

•Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets.

•Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class Student packets & Diagram Kits Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: Cutting shears, razor, and (8) matching hair clips Students: Cutting shears, razor, and (8) matching hair clips Water bottles

Ste p-by -ste p 1. During the consultation, consider the length, shape, face frame, and versatility. Choose the appropriate layering system for the desired result; i.e., for anything from a light bounce to fully stacked; or square layers for weight removal and curl activation.

2. Get to know the landscape. How consistent is the curl pattern? How even is the density? Does the hair encourage or discourage volume?

Does the hairline create holes in the perimeter?

Teach & Learn 3. Shampoo and condition with appropriate products. Section the hair based on the chosen layering system, or twist and diffuse to dry cut.

4. Cut according to plan. Either removing weight as you go or at the end, depending on the hair type.

5. Finish by twisting and diffusing or by refreshing previously dried hair.

Check for symmetry, adjusting accordingly.

Tips and Tricks If the nape is less curly than the rest, you might need to undercut it.

Always know that curls will go shorter after the cut. Be aware of where the curls will spring before cutting the whole head.

You can take out weight, but always leave the ends more blunt than with straight hair.

Curls react better when the ends are thicker.

Generally a diamond shape on curly hair is the most flattering. Leave the corners at the bottom and the top. For guys with curly hair, take out length and weight at the parietal ridge.

R E V I E W & P RE P A R E F O R NEX T WEEK

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your AHA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha ve What did you love

done better?

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Let Student Consult First Then ask the student some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly.

Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

Practical Section, Stop, Wait Have students section head off, clip, stop and wait for next instruction. As they move through the class, the students should do precisely what you instruct on each section, then stop and wait until others complete that section. If they have finished their section correctly, they may move around the room observing the others until the next directive is given.

Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

about this?

What questions did

n

-O Hands

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Blowout Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and curly hair blowout.

While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

u

LESSON PLAN HC-09

CLASSIC BOB

CLASSIC

BOB

ge  w i t h F r i n Classic Bob

with Fringe

with Fringe

Concepts: A bob cut above the shoulders with no graduation and no tension, usually with a slight undercut

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn how to cut a Classic Bob with Fringe.

H

“A classic bob is a one-length cut with a slight drop (1/4 to 1 inch) from ear to jaw. It creates a strong classic shape that balances a small jawline and is the perfect looking style no matter the weather.”

Present terminology quiz.

(10 min.) Review correct answers. (10 min.)

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s

(2) techniques.

(20 minutes) View the Vidal DVD “A” segment “a”.

Also, view Bb Hair Stories 5, “The History of the Bob.”

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet.

•Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class.

•Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets.

•Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class Previously cut and finished mannequin # HC-09 Demo mannequin w/tripod Student packets & Diagram Kits Vidal and Bumble DVDs Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Students: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Water bottles

Ste p-by -ste p 1. Section the hair in four sections —center front to back and ear to ear.

2. With the head tilted forward, create a guide starting with a small horizontal section, taking the hairline and fall of the hair into consideration.

3. Continue in this fashion up the back of the head tilting the head up slightly with each new section.

Teach & Learn

4. Move to the side of the head.

Take the first horizontal section above the ear. Use the tap trick to account for ear-fall and cut with the chosen drop, connecting to back guide.

4. Continue to the top of the head in this same fashion; then move to the other side and repeat to complete the cut.

4. Flat brush blowout with chosen product.

Fringe •

If the face is round, the most flattering effect is long, feathery bangs that curve into the face to minimize the full cheeks and add contour to round features.

•

If the face is long, go for blunt brow-level bangs that cover the forehead and create the illusion of a more oval-shaped face. Also, add longer layers at the sides.

•

If the face is square, check out long, side-swept bangs that taper into layers near the jaw. This style will create more of a triangle at the eye-line, and help soften the angles of the lower face.

Snip tip: Make sure to evaluate the hair when it’s dry first, since hair is longer when it's wet. You don't want to screw up and snip off too much.

Styling Secrets When blow-drying your bangs, the trick is to tackle them when they're sopping wet. To get perfect results, first apply a small spray of Styling Lotion to the area.

Then clamp a two-inch section of bangs between two fingers and blow-dry the roots only; alternate aiming the dryer above and below the roots so they don't get too flat or too puffy. When all the roots are almost dry but the ends are still damp, use a small, flat brush to curve the ends under while you blow-dry. If you want your bangs stick straight, smooth them out by running a small flatiron from mid-length down. Finish with a mist of hair spray.

Cut dry with comb and zero tension.

Section in deep triangle with two overlapping sections. Make sure eyebrows are covered over, so the bangs don’t get too short.

Cut with tiny steps, from outward in, on each side.

n

-O Hands

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Let Student Consult First Then ask the student some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly.

Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

Practical Section, Stop, Wait Have students section head off, clip, stop and wait for next instruction. As they move through the class, the students should do precisely what you instruct on each section, then stop and wait until others complete that section. If they have finished their section correctly, they may move around the room observing the others until the next directive is given.

Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout.

While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

Tips and Tricks • Tap the hair over the ear to account for how the hair falls over the ear.

• The hair is cut with little or no tension at a zero fall. This can be achieved by using your comb to hold the hair with the small teeth or the back of your finger.

• All hair is cut to the natural fall including the fringe if it is to be cut.

Classic Bob with Fringe

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

U

LESSON PLAN HC-10

GRADUATED BOB

G R A D UAT E D

BOB

orizontall Approached H

t b  H o r i z o n Graduated Bo

al

Horizontal Approach

y

Concepts and Terms: Natural Fall, Half Moon Graduation, Creating Head Shape, Building Weight, Sweet Spot, Waist of Neck, Sassoon Swing Bob 1968

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Set up your visual flip-chart. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn the techniques of creating a Classic Graduated Bob shape using a horizontal approach.”

H

“Why would you choose a bob haircut?

To create a graphic, visually perfect shape that cannot be altered by wind, style or movement. To help balance a weak chin or jaw-line. Or to create the illusion of thicker hair through cutting, not styling. The bob also serves to give a very feminized shape to a short haircut, by retaining the feeling of ‘long hair’ on top.

“The bob shape we’re working with today is the Graduated Bob. It is also known as the ‘Stacked Bob,’ the ‘Sassoon Swing Bob,’ or the ‘A-Line Bob.’ It features graduation at the nape, moving to one length at the sides and front.

“The goal of the horizontal graduation technique is to create weight. When you use it at the occipital bone, which we do here in the Horizontal Bob, you can either emphasize—or create the illusion of—a head shape. Also, cutting the bob horizontally ensures a seamless bob-line from back to sides.”

Present terminology quiz. (10 min.).

Review correct answers. (10 min.).

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques.

(20 min.)

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet.

•Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class.

•Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets.

•Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class Previously cut and finished mannequin # HC-10 Demo mannequin w/tripod Student Packets Diagram Kits Educator Review Forms Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Students: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Water bottles

EDU CATOR D E M O ( 4 5 M I N UT ES ) 1. Section

4. Neck to Side Sections

In 4 sections, with the top parted with natural hairline and fall.

It’s important when cutting on the flat of the neck that the head is completely upright, and the hair is combed to its natural fall with minimum tension. You must ensure that any natural root lift and movement will not affect your end result.

2. Guideline Tilt model’s head forward. Take 1/2 inch diagonal section, drop with zero elevation and zero tension. Cut approx.

2 in. section straight across center (using neck muscles as boundaries).

Then cut an “arc” in the rest of section, making sure to flip your scissor as you approach your left/right cuts. Use the metaphor of an archway, where the keystone is straight across and supports the rest of the arch. Emphasize using the thumb only to close the shear, and keeping the shear parallel with the floor—no “tipping up!”

3. Nape to Occipital Bone Section 2 - Hold diagonal section at center and elevate hair one finger’s width away from head. Cut flat keystone section. Drop elevation to zero and cut left and right sides of section, following arc of neck.

Section 3 - Same as above, but increase elevation incrementally on keystone section. Moving out, drop 1/2 elevation of section and cut 1-1/2 in.

Drop to zero elevation and finish arc on left and right.

Continue on to other sections as so until reaching occipital bone.

A hallmark of a perfect graduated bob is the beautiful forward swing that is not produced by layers or hair product, but by naturally occurring hair weight.

If the front ends of each side are pulled under the chin, they should meet and “kiss.”

To achieve the best result, keep your body straight-on to the head, angle your fingers the same as the diagonal sectioning, use the spaced teeth of the comb to hold with minimum tension.

5. Side Sections Continue zero degree elevation.

Make sure to slightly drop cutting angle to ensure a 1-2 inch, straight line “drop” from behind ear to jawline. When the front ends of each side are pulled under the chin, they should meet and “kiss” when wet to create the swing and length you will want when dry.

Consider the ear quirk.

Always err on the side of longer angles on the side as you go. You can always go shorter, but never longer!

6. Horizontal or Vertical?

Horizontal: If you want the hair to look super shiny, very classically Asian or European and expensive—or if the hair is exceptionally straight and will not hold a style. Vertical: If you want the hair to look textured, playful, rough, or able to be styled different ways according to trend and/or product.

Teach & Learn

n

-O Hands

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Let Students Consult First Then ask the students some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly.

Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

Practical Section, Stop, Wait Have students section the head off, clip, stop, and wait for next instruction. As they move through the class, the students should do precisely what you instruct on each section, then stop and wait until others complete that section. If they have finished their section correctly, they may move around the room observing the others until the next directive is given.

Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

Blow-Dry

Jenny McCarthy 2010

Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout.

While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

Tips and Tricks • Using a razor instead of a shear would still allow you to build weight, yet create a very soft and modern line.

• It’s important when softening your ends that you never remove weight from the back “half-moon” that is building the head-shape.

• The Half Moon occipital graduation technique learned here can be used to create head shape for a flat head inside of ANY short haircut.

• Surface layers, bangs, or forward graduation can be used to tailor the movement of the cut. If you want to see

more obvious internal movement in your bob shape, you may want to use the vertical graduation technique instead.

• Layers create the illusion of thicker hair through styling technique. Precision bobs create the illusion of thicker hair through cutting technique.

• _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________

Katie Holmes 2009

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

Victoria “Posh” Beckham

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

u

LESSON PLAN HC-12

GRADUATED BOB

G R A D UAT E D

BOB

lly b  V e r t i c a Graduated Bo

Vertical Approach

ertically Approached V

Concepts: Achieving graduation in the back of the head using vertical sectioning while ending up with one length around the face

THE ORY ( 30 M in u t e s ) and out packets. Set up your visual flip-chart. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn the techniques of creating a Classic Graduated Bob shape using a vertical approach.”

H

“Graduation is a great choice for someone who would like a stronger head shape or for really giving someone the illusion of a head shape they do not have. Graduation from the head is achievable between 1 degree and 89 degrees (90 degrees and more would be layers).

“Always remember that when graduating hair—whether achieving it

horizontally or vertically—you are building a weight line. It is important to visually establish where you want your weight line to be before starting the haircut. By doing this you will analyze their hair texture, density, head shape, face shape, and knowing their personal requests for what they want out of the cut you choose for them.

“When using vertical sectioning, you achieve the height of graduation in the very first section. The vertical approach can easily expose more of the neckline and the interior of the hair.”

Present terminology quiz. (10 min.)

Review correct answers. (10 min.)

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques.

(20 min.)

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet.

•Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class.

•Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets.

•Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class Previously cut and finished mannequin # HC-12 Demo mannequin w/tripod Student Packets Diagram Kits Educator Review Forms Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Students: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Water bottles

Ste p-by -ste p 1. Section In 4 sections, with the top parted with natural hairline and fall.

2. Guideline Tilt model’s head forward. Take 1/2 inch diagonal section, drop with zero elevation and zero tension. Cut where you want your line to be while using the shape of the neck. This will establish the foundation for your cut. You may need to cut one more section this same way so you have a strong enough line.

Teach & Learn

4. Neck to Side Sections It’s important when cutting on the flat of the neck that the head is completely upright, and the hair is combed to its natural fall with minimum tension. You must ensure that any natural root lift and movement will not affect your end result.

To achieve the best result, keep your body straight-on to the head, angle your fingers the same as the diagonal sectioning, use the spaced teeth of the comb to hold with minimum tension.

5. Side Sections The line of graduation you choose will determine where the length ends up on the sides. Cut the sides with zero degree elevation and very little tension.

3. Nape to Occipital Bone

Be sure to consider the ear “quirk.”

Section 2 - From the center take a vertical section out and establish your graduation using foundation line as a point of reference. When moving left to right and right to left, each section is pulled back to the previous section which will establish a half-moon shape allowing hair to gradually become longer towards the front.

6. Horizontal or Vertical?

Horizontal: If you want the hair to look super shiny, very classically Asian or European and expensive—or if the hair is exceptionally straight and will not hold a style. Vertical: If you want the hair to look textured, playful, rough, or able to be styled different ways according to trend and/or product.

A vertical cut ensures a looser, “layered” look on the back with a solid line in front.

n

-O Hands

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Let Student Consult First Then ask the student some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly.

Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

Practical Section, Stop, Wait Have students section head off, clip, stop and wait for next instruction. As they move through the class, the students should do precisely what you instruct on each section, then stop and wait until others complete that section. If they have finished their section correctly, they may move around the room observing the others until the next directive is given.

Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

Blow-Dry

Jenny McCarthy 2010

Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout.

While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

Tips and Tricks • Layers create the illusion of thicker hair through styling techniques. Precisions bobs create the illusion of thick hair through cutting techniques.

• Using a razor instead of a shear would still build weight, yet create a softer line.

• Cross-checking is key in giving a good solid haircut.

• You can put your “signature” with any graduated bob by adding surface layers, bangs, fringe, and more.

• _________________________ _________________________

_________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________ _________________________

Katie Holmes 2009

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

Victoria “Posh” Beckham

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!

p 2 da 0 t 1 e 0 d

u

LESSON PLAN HC-13

SCISSOR OVER COMB

SCISSOR OVER

COMB

pper C o m b  C l i Scissor over

and Clipper Cut

Cut and Clipper

Concepts: Creating masculine shapes on shorter hair

THE ORY a n d De m o ( 1 h o u r 3 0 M i nut e s ) and out packets. Set up your visual flip-chart. Make sure everyone has their workbooks and pen. Start with, “Welcome! Today we are going to learn to create a short masculine shape using the techniques of scissor over comb and clipper haircutting.

H

“We’ll learn how to use the comb as a guide instead of our fingers for both length

and control of the hair. Then we’ll learn how to use the clipper blade lengths to control the length of the hair.”

Present terminology quiz. (10 min.)

Review correct answers. (10 min.)

Lead students through the 4-Head Diagramming of today’s techniques.

(20 min.) Then demo the two cuts. (1 hr.)

Date __________

ady e R t e G Educators Senior _______________________________ _______________________________

Junior ________________________________

Preparation One Week Before •Review entire educator packet.

•Study Student Review & Diagramming Sheets from the previous class.

•Acquire (2) new pictures of styles created using this technique. Add to student packets.

•Arrange for models (if any) to arrive 45 minutes into the class. If you are doing a demo first, instruct models to arrive 1:15 minutes after class starts.

Materials Day Of Class Previously cut and finished mannequin # HC-13 Demo mannequin w/tripod Student Packets Diagram Kits Educator Review Forms Study sheets for next week’s quiz Educator: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Students: Cutting shears and (8) matching hair clips Water bottles

Ste p-by -S t ep S c i s s o r O v er C omb 1. Assess the head shape, hairline, swirls, etc.

3. Using scissor over comb, cut the sides and back.

2. Decide the length on the sides and top.

4. Blend the top with the sides.

Teach & Learn

n

-O Hands

Remember that each student may learn visually, audibly, conceptually, or purely by doing. Try to include examples for each of these methods.

Consultation Move as a Group Have students do consultations one-byone, with entire group moving together, observing the others until all are completed.

Let Student Consult First

Proper Scissor To Comb Position •

Starting at the hairline, lift a section of hair with your comb in your holding hand.

•

Butt your scissors up right next to the comb. Cut the hair that sticks past the comb with your scissors (in your cutting hand).

Keep the lower blade (the stationary blade) parallel to your comb. The scissor and comb must always move together as one unit.

•

Keep the blade of your scissors constantly moving as you cut a section (one comb's worth) of hair. If you stop "mid-cut," you will create little nick marks.

•

Open and close the blades all the way so that most of the cutting is done with the center part of the blade rather than the tip. “Pushing” with the tips can result in choppy, uneven cuts.

•

•

Do all the cutting with your thumb(upper) blade rather than your lower (finger) blade.

Your lower blade should stay as still as possible—that's why it's called the stationary blade.

Keep a bit of the cut hair along with the next section to act as your guide. Don't cut any of the hairs from your previous

cut again—they are your only guide.

•

As you move up, barely tilt your comb at a consistent distance and angle from the scalp. Stay very focused in curved or rounded areas such as the nape of the neck. You will always be straight up at the neckline and tilt slightly as you progress up the head. Do not move “closer” and “further away” and “closer” again. (Holes!)

•

Stand directly in front of each section. This allows you to more easily see the angle of the comb and the amount of hair you are cutting.

•

Keep hair slightly wet while you cut.

•

It helps to have sharp, 4.5 to 5.5 long scissor blades for this technique. Dull or short scissors can result in more unevenness as well as horizontal "steps" because you will “push” the hair, or your hand will be in the way.

Then ask the student some leading questions to get answers needed to perform the technique correctly.

Encourage students to “Under-promise & Over-deliver”: “We are going to see what your hair will allow us to do today.”

Practical Section, Stop, Wait Have students section head off, clip, stop and wait for next instruction. As they move through the class, the students should do precisely what you instruct on each section, then stop and wait until others complete that section. If they have finished their section correctly, they may move around the room observing the others until the next directive is given.

Stop and Show Off When there is a special case you want to highlight, “stop” the room’s work for a moment and “show off ” the case, as to enhance the student’s learning beyond their own model.

Blow-Dry Prescriptions / Flat Brush Have students do full Take-Home Prescription and flat brush blowout.

While students finish hair, complete Student Reviews with written details in every section.

Clipper Cutting Ste p-by -S t ep 1. Assess the head shape, hairline, swirls, etc.

2. Decide the length at the nape, sides, and hairline.

3. Using clipper blades, start with the longest blade and work up the head until the top (the transitional point).

Then, using shorter blades, work closer and closer to the hairline.

4. Blend the top to the sides.

Tip 1: Know how to spot a bad haircut.

Two of the haircuts below are bad; one is flawless. Here's what's wrong: 1) In the first photo, there is a visible line between the clipper section and the section that was cut with shears and the neckline is blocked crooked and too high. Blending is poor and the cut looks uneven.

2) In the middle photo, there is a highly visible line in the side of the haircut. A properly blended haircut will never have visible lines of demarcation. Here's what's right: 3) In the third photo, there are no visible lines of demarcation, the neckline is expertly tapered and the finishing lines behind and around the ears are clean. After your next clipper or scissor over comb cut, if you see visible lines, bad blending, or sloppy finishing (blocking, trimming around ears), keep working!

Tip s & Tric ks •The hair should always be dry when

clipper cutting. Wet hair will simply clog the blades and can damage your clippers and make them difficult to clean. Trying to clipper cut wet hair can also result in water seeping into the unreachable places on the clippers, potentially causing the blades to rust.

•For best results, always guide the clippers against the direction of the hair growth. This assures that the hairs are evenly cropped according to the length of the clipper guide. Use a comb to keep the hair directed in its growth pattern between passes with the clippers.

•Avoid trying to overload the clippers in any given pass. This is especially important when dealing with fine or lank hair. Finely-textured hair will bend easily when the clippers meet resistance and you can find that your cutting attempts are less than satisfactory. When dealing with finer textures, cut tracts of hair that are only half the width of the clipper blades.

This technique is also useful if you find that your clippers are clogging with hair.

• Short Back and Sides: Although not always a clipper cut, this style refers to the traditional men’s haircut where the sides and back of the hair are cut short, but the hair on top of the head is left long enough to be combed over and parted as desired. The style often includes front fringe.

• Buzz Cut: Cutting the hair all over to a uniform length. The hair is generally cut ¼-inch or shorter. Variations include the Crew Cut (where the hair in front and on top is left slightly longer), Butch Cut (a name variation), and Induction Cut (clipper cut to minimal stubble as done on admission into the Armed Forces).

• Flat Top: The hair at the top of the head is cut to create a horizontal plane when styled to stand vertically. The cut

Tip 2: Know the difference between a blocked and tapered hairline.

The examples below show how a blocked hairline can add the illusion of width—not a good thing if you are heavyset or have a thick neck, but probably a good option if your neck is long and skinny. The second set of photos shows a hairline a few days after the haircut. Notice how the tapered haircut looks clean while the blocked cut already looks sloppy.

can be very short, exposing the center top of the scalp and tapered severely on the sides and in the back (sometimes called a horseshoe flattop because of the horseshoe shape of hair created). It could also have sharply edged corners or smoothly rounded ones along the parietal ridge.

• Caesar Cut: The Caesar Cut is generally clipper cut to a uniform length of about one inch all over the head, and left slight longer at the forehead edge to be combed downward in straightedged bangs. The perimeter of the hair follows a traditional man’s cut – around the ears and squared at then neck. There is a variation found in the length of most Caesar Cuts depending on the preferences of the wearer and the density of the hair.

Those individuals with more dense hair

(thicker) may prefer a shorter cut, but the hair is rarely shorter than ½-inch all over the head. Recent years have seen the Caesar Cut finished by styling the bangs with product to stand up messily at the forehead. In this case, the bangs are usually kept the same length as the rest of the hair.

• Collegiate Cut: Also known as an Ivy League Cut, the Collegiate Cut is a tapered haircut that is shortest at the bottom perimeter of the hair (sides and back) and gradually gains in length from crown to the front forehead area.

The bottom of the hair may start as short as 1/8th inch at the neck and bottom sides, increase to ½-inch at the parietal ridge and crown area, and slowly increase to as much as 2 inches or a little longer at the front of the head.

Tips and Tricks • Generally the sides will stick out, so take weight or length off the transition point of the head from the top to sides.

• When fading the sides, the front hairline can be taken shorter at a diagonal back line.

• More horizontal fades are classic and leave more weight on the sides of the head.

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This gentlemen's haircut progresses with a tight scissor cut along the sides around the ears and works up into an easy length into the crown and top where we can see heavy texturing sparked into head-shaped layers. Spraying a light styling lotion before drying is a must.

R E VIEW & PR EP ARE FOR N EXT WEE K

F in a l Q u e s t io n s Where was your A-

HA! moment?

What was your big

gest challenge?

What could you ha

ve done better?

What did you love

about this?

What questions did

This most meticulous clipper style is tapered closely around the ears and along the neckline. A masculine, executive style with a clean-cut feel that is layered over from the side part.

this bring up?

After final questions, break up into two groups, one educato r to a group. Go over each Student Review sheet. Explain why they received their sc ore and highlight what each can focus on to improve.

Summarize the next class. Hand out study sheets for next week’s quiz. Hand out Educator Review sheets. Thank everyone in the class for their hard work!