T H E.F I R S T.G R A DUATES 2010
FALMOUTH FASHION & PERFORMANCE SPORTSWEAR
KATY MADDEVER
Katy Maddever makes clothes with such astonishing levels of love, you cannot help but love them in return. The glorious escapism of her fairy-tale inspired collection references historical costume and employs a range of opulent, arresting materials including fur, leather, cashmere, crystals and silk. Brimming over with romantic sentiments, Katy rejuvenates the tradition for hand-crafted,
high-end goods in a series of jackets, coats and dresses for a 21st century wearer to appreciate. Linings are printed with inspirational quotes and poetry to guarantee a positive inflection to the wearing of Katy’s imaginative and plush clothes, a rewarding experience that improves with each outing. katymaddever @googlemail.com
INTRODUCTION
In your hands is the remarkable achievement of our first graduates from Fashion Design and Performance Sportswear Design at Falmouth. Stepping into higher education with the creation of these courses was an exciting challenge after establishing and running fashion label Artwork for over 25 years. However I felt ready to put into practise my beliefs of how a fashion department should operate. Fashion Design and Performance Sportswear are degrees designed with the future in mind. I am acutely aware of the expectations of employers within the fashion industry and it is my hope that we have equipped students with the skills and attitude to succeed in the area of their choice. Fashion has changed radically in the past few years and the global perspective allows a designer to work from a beach in Cornwall as effectively as an office in London. We operate video conferencing and live projects with global brands such as Diesel, Speedo, Luella and Lee Cooper and maintain a range of strong and positive links to names such as Decathlon, Finisterre, Tanya Sarne and Orsola de Castro. Centring our efforts on wearable lifestyle fashion and performance sportswear, our students reflect the new global paradigm of fashion, travelling from all over the world to study in Falmouth. Our department mirrors a realistic fashion environment, including an open plan studio and state of the art machine room on the ground floor nicknamed ‘The Factory’, housing some of the best university facilities in the UK. All our staff and technicians have spent years in the international fashion industry and offer an extraordinary breadth of knowledge. The combination results in these pages, along with the collaborative work of professionals and students from across the university. We hope that whilst shows may end and curtains fall, we have given you a reminder of the groundbreaking talent the Fashion Design and Performance Sportswear students at University College Falmouth have to offer.
Jane Gottelier
DEPARTMENT LIST Course Leader Jane Gottelier Patrick Gottelier Core Staff
Some of Our Visiting Lecturers
Claire Armitage Claire Barker Phillips John Boddy Sarah Braddock Clarke Yola Creighton Balfour Camilla Dixon Peter Doubleday Tom Podkalinski Charles Ross Alex de Savola Susan Shaw Kate Strasdin Warren Valentine Jill Weeks Bridget Woods-Krammer
Claire Alderson- Fashion Journalist Graham Ashton- Business Consultant Belinda Boden- Knitwear Designer Orsola de Castro- Fashion Designer, From Somewhere Neil Chadwick- Managing Director, Seasalt Susie Coulthard- Stylist Clive Crook- Art Director Professor Wendy Dagworthy- Head of Fashion, Royal College of Art Lesley Goring- Fashion Show Producer Arnault Gournac- Design Director, Decathlon, France Andy Griffiths- European Marketing Director, Diesel Sarah Howatson- Performance Sportswear Design Director Professor Clare Johnson- Head of Textiles, Royal College of Art Elaine Kingett- Fashion P.R. Claire Medwin Gardener- Fashion Journalist Lucy Richards- Fashion Show Producer Joan Rolls- P.R. Van Cleef and Arpels Chris Sanderson and Martin Raymond- The Future Laboratory
www.falmouth.ac.uk
THE FIRST GRADUATES 2010
Melissa Badman p.10 Robert Fernandez p.11 Emily Frost p.04 Sarah Haines p.07 Lois Harris p.14 Sara Hughes Parry p.19 Stephanie Johnson p.31 Sarah Lee p.08 Katy Maddever p.27 Sara Nobre p.29 Stacey Penny p.08 Hayley Scott p.17
Abigail Fay Performance Sportswear
Dionne Sylvester p.28
Nicci Davidson p.15
Laura Leach p.25
Nandita Shroff p.24
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Collaborating Courses Fashion & Performance Sportswear Design Graphic Design Press Photography English with Media Studies
Writer Nina Joyce Photographers Tom Dymond 10, 14, 24, 25 Will Bunce 4, 12, 13, 17, 20 Oliver Rudkin 2, 18, 19, 21, 29 Katrina Aleska 8, 15, 26, 27 Lulu Ash 6, 7, 23, 34 Jackson Wise 16
Designers Jasmine Spencer Callum York Sydney Soan Laura Wienk Ben Satchell Maja Hakenstad Laurie Robins
Models Emmanuelle Godeau 8, 26 Nina Joyce 10, 11 Linda Aslaksen 12, 35 Amy Behrens Clark 14, 23 Jo Foster 15 Zoe Baker 16 Hayley Scott 17 Anna Sofia Walsh 21 Claire Tonna 22
Maz Fentiman 24, 25, 31 Cathy Hookie 6, 7 Oda Sonju 34, 35 Adele Granli 35 Hair & Make-up Jack Kindred Boothby Chloe Davies
Special Thanks Indaba on The Beach St. Ives Roach Ltd Collaborative Direction Clive Crook
Michelle Gardiner p.32
Irene Pascoe p.31
Brooke Hilden p.20
Poupette Bulley p.12
Eleanor Glen p.18
Jenny Welwert Gill p.06
Ruth Behrens Clark p.23
JENNY WELWERT GIL Tired of companies paying lip service to recycling ethics, Jenny Welwert Gil took it upon herself to produce a collection that concentrates the necessities of life into a beautiful, eternal, capsule wardrobe. Sumptuous natural, undyed, organic wools sit alongside leather jackets, whilst the sole deviation from her endeavours for local goods came when, failing any UK production, she looked to a small Amazonian village to provide Fair
Trade salmon skin for trousers and jackets. Jenny’s vision for a world where society is conscious of their production and waste is the impetus for her designs, whilst her labels remain blank, ready for each new owner to embroider their names inside before passing it on and continuing the cycle of reuse. jennywelwert @gmail.com jennywelwert.com
SARAH LEE
Sarah Lee is keen for women to love her cocktail dresses in ethereal, barely-there colours that capture the imagination and flirt around the colour boundaries. Structural bodies exhibit the female form, whilst embellished skirts float around the wearer to add an illusive charm. A demure and bashful femininity inherent in Sarah’s style clashes against flashes of ghostly references to white noise and strange sightings. More abstract in her inspiration, Sarah makes obscurity wearable and the ghostly undeniably entrancing. miss.sarah.lee @hotmail.co.uk sarah-lee.co.uk
SARAH HAINES
With pattern cutting becoming a dying art, the skill to meticulously sketch, design and cut garments is becoming ever rarer. But for Sarah Haines, the need to employ exacting precision in every aspect of her work was vital for the sleek, modern aesthetic in her smart daywear. Jersey and silk play against ample pleats and folds of wool, though detail is the key in Sarah’s work; beautiful linings sweep against the skin, bonded wool twists of exact measurements gild waistbands, collars and cuffs, giving the extra finish that makes this collection remarkable. Fascinated by anatomical illustration, Sarah set out to replicate the shape of the human body in her work, paying close attention to the organic shapes of muscles and bone that could be reflected in a quality, natural cut.
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sarahkhaines @hotmail.co.uk sarahkhaines.co.uk
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POUPETTE BULLEY
Poupette Bulley mixes leather, suede, jersey and satin to produce an elegant and natural collection with her own unique approach to fabric manipulation. Letting the fabric and body work together, her relaxed sculpting lets a natural order dominate her pieces; they flatter and transform the
female form. In letting the specifics of each fabric work with one another, as well as employing laser cutting and an edgy colour palette, Poupette makes clothes that develop with a consciousness to changing styles and environment. Enriched by her travels, Poupette’s
inspiration from Norwegian medieval churches is indicative of a determination to find the best in other cultures, reflected in the desire for elaborate but subtle detail in her own collection. contact@poupette.com poupettebulley.com
SARA NOBRE
Based on the dual personality of superheroes, Sara Nobre’s distinctive and intriguing collection delves into the world of psychology and fashion. Ingmar Berman’s film, Persona, played a crucial role in inspiring Sara’s study of personality shift and psychological flaws that resulted in a beautiful take on asymmetry and the silhouette. Sweeping hips exaggerate the profile in a stark, unique statement, whilst each garment has two opposite sides, representing the split and union between two elements. sarawhittle@hotmail.com
NICCI DAVIDSON
When Nicci Davidson photographed the beaches of St. Austell, she was caught by the texture of the surroundings in the cliff faces, rocks and waves. Translating the notion of a three-dimensional contrast between surface and structure, Nicci’s casual daywear of knitwear, jackets and dresses builds upon the body with reference to the magnificent surroundings of Cornwall. Natural creams and browns are complemented by sparks of orange and blue upon edges and lining. Nicci’s choice to use complex waxed cotton and thin yarns reflects the temperamental personality of the environment itself, although with technical precision Nicci has reined in the essence of nature. Customised hand-knitted garments reveal the ruggedness of rocks and the ebb and flow of water with a perceptive and tough Autumn/Winter range. niccidavidson @hotmail.co.uk
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SARA HUGHES PARRY In the eyes of Sara Hughes Parry, if it’s been done before, it’s not worth doing again. Making clothes that challenge and confront popular notions of what exactly fashion is, Sara’s disdain for the rule book has resulted in an exciting, stylish clash of English culture between the Toff and the Chav. With inspiration ranging from royals to rude boys, each outfit mixes elements of the Brits, with tweed, recycled shellsuits and linoleum flooring
providing just some of the materials for her humorous but thoughtprovoking collection. The future holds anything for a designer as dynamic as Sara, though her aspiration to start a creative collective is set to be the next chapter of her life. sarahp_1987 @hotmail.com
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ELEANOR GLEN
With kind sponsorship from the founder of Handwritten and Ghost, Tanya Sarne, Eleanor Glen has produced a directional, expressive collection that distinguishes her skill and dedication to fashion. Beautiful, hidden aspects award Eleanor’s garments the need for a closer look; thick embellished leather and studs sit alongside delicate beads for an intriguing and beguiling surface. Taking a lead from the construction of Samurai armour this collection plays with the contrast between the strengths of the feminine and masculine, combining a range of sleek, meticulous silk quilting that toys with structural illusions. Eleanor has produced clothes that speak of the modern woman, dressed for day or night, embracing not only her physical figure, but also herself as a beacon of individualism and strength. e_glen@hotmail.co.uk eleanorglen.co.uk
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BROOKE HILDEN
When a faulty economy has put a frown on fashion’s face, Brooke Hilden’s collection inspires a light-hearted second look at the idiosyncrasies of eccentric British trends in a sharp and animated direction. Fascinated by the high-tea showpiece, the jelly mould, Brooke plays with notions of structure, form and movement in fabric. Keen to represent the way the body can be layered and controlled to represent expanding and contracting movements like jelly, Brooke
juxtaposes stiff, fused wool projecting from the body with submerged pockets below the surface of trousers, playing with visibility and a depth on the subject. Taking it back to basics with bold, geometric prints, a slick continuity informs one piece to the next in a nod to the 1960s penchant for matching accessories, though Brooke’s contemporary take on this London-inspired style looks firmly to the future. brooke.hilden @googlemail.co.uk
RUTH BEHRENS CLARK In the age of
throwaway fashion, Ruth Behrens Clark offers an invitation for people to reconsider and reopen their relationship to the world around them in a collection that uses nothing new; instead materials and accessories have been recycled or salvaged from wherever she may find them in a bid to reduce the ongoing depletion of the earth’s resources. With hopes of starting a connective network of designers saving end of season clothes from the waste pile, Ruth used material from Portuguese designer ‘India That Wears You’, fitting them straight onto the mannequin to ensure an ideal shape on the body. Personal touches spring out with shimmering embroidery and prints of her photography, paintings and lyrics, inspired by the story of the Shambhala warriors. ruthy_m@hotmail.co.uk
MELISSA BADMAN To imagine every
strand of a material has been overseen and cared for by a designer seems almost impossible. But for Melissa Badman’s knitwear collection, her passion for the process meant the hours spent constructing her own fabric ensured the perfect foundation to her work, becoming part of a playful design process that reflects the attitude of the new knitwear devotee she aims for. Ready to blast the image of old-fashioned knit and purl, Melissa’s range takes inspiration from Victorian photography with towering, statement collars and handcrocheted slimline evening dresses awash with royal blue and handsome burgundies. melissa.badman @hotmail.co.uk
NANDITA SHROFF
As a melding of Indian and English culture (via Vienna), Nandita Shroff’s own heritage was the starting point for her fusion collection. Demonstrating the energy between two cultures, Nandita combines the mood of austere English
tailoring and the vibrancy of Indian saris in a series of classy but quirky pieces. Colour and texture play a vital role; pink seams and edging pick out matching undertones in aquamarine fabric that dazzles in the light, whilst tough biker zips bolster Nandita’s
twist on traditional Indian dress. Whether it’s worn in London, New York or Mumbai, Nandita’s clothes offer the kind of chic guaranteed to be embraced all over the globe. nandita.shroff@gmail.com 24
LAURA LEACH
When the stresses of modern life encroach on our downtime, personal style is often forgone for the sake of comfort. Laura Leach’s vision for lux loungewear injects a sense of clarity back into leisure time with transitional garments that encompass function and beauty. Classic tailoring and clean aesthetics are reminiscent of the mechanical drawings that inform her collection, whilst swirling wood panels evoke antique clocks and remind the wearer of the evolutionary nature of both the wood and the garment itself, ever changing as it adapts to life. Seams strategically pinpoint the contours of the body and the quality of cashmere adds a soft, welcoming tone to a collection that Laura hopes to expand into a label in the future. lauraleach@ekit.com
EMILY FROST
In an age of body extremity, Emily Frost’s form-flattering garments are perfect for the everyday woman looking to accommodate both fashion and comfort. Designed as an antidote to women’s clothing anxieties, her collection follows the curves of the body to complement and conceal in all the right places. Emily also confronts the problems of the changing environment in her shift to the conceptual Summer/Autumn Winter/Spring seasons. Her sophisticated, confident cuts are perfect layering staples for the ambitious woman’s wardrobe, whilst her experimentation with luxurious silks and moleskin add a touch of the sublime to the design. emilyfrost.co.uk
DIONNE SYLVESTER When Dionne Sylvester began to see circles in photographs of 1930s dresses, she was sure everyone else did. They might not have, but Dionne’s eyes opened to the possibility of creating fashion prints from a different perspective, one unafraid to stand out and make a statement on the wearer in a melding of simplicity and chaos. Magic eye puzzles, optical illusions, paint splashes and hula hoops are among the amazing citations Dionne calls on in her bright and inspiring designs which play with visual expectations of recognition and scale. With a head full of such astoundingly original ideas, Dionne’s plans to move further into print design look set to bring the future of fashion alive.
STACEY PENNEY
After years spent surfing around the world, Stacey Penney was disappointed to return home and find the UK market lagging behind in sportswear ranges for women. With a desire to give women stylish surfwear that didn’t compromise on performance, Stacey set about devising a revolutionary range of bodysuits that integrate rash vest and suit in one, in intense Diorinspired pinks and purples. Pioneering seam bonding and inventive
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new takes on panelling ensure a smooth look and function, whilst Stacey’s custom lace prints add a fine beauty often overlooked in sportswear. Jewels may sparkle upon the neoprene surface with a glamour that seems a million miles from the beaches, but Stacey’s designs are forged on solid experience, technical expertise and resourceful thinking in the sportswear field. staceypenney@gmail.com
HAYLEY SCOTT
Living between Cornwall and London, Hayley Scott interlinks the best elements of rural and urban style in her streetwear collection for vibrant, confident women of today. Versatile layering forms the foundations of Hayley’s collection, showing a consideration for cute, contemporary trends worn by the fashion savvy. Bringing another dimension to her design, Hayley utilised an ultrasonic welder to
produce quilting that lets the texture of the garment become a talking point. Drawing on the best qualities of the females around her, Hayley brings her own twist to femininity in textures and colours that truly pop, complete with tag line ‘I’m With the Designer’, a tongue-in-cheek statement sure to bring out the feisty, playful side of the wearer. hayley-scott.com
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IRENE PASCOE
The power woman is back in business with Irene Pascoe’s breathtaking, architectural swimwear. Lifting visual quirks from the Chrysler Building that dominates the New York skyline, high cutaway legs sweep through the suits and embellished necklines glisten with Irene’s unique eye for jewellery, a path she hopes to continue to explore. Teasing inspiration from the Art Deco era, the confidence of wealth and prestige effortlessly transforms the wearer but maintains a clean, streamlined look in gun metal greys and opulent blues. irenepascoe @hotmail.co.uk
MICHELLE GARDINER
Bridging the gap between fashion and sportswear, Michelle Gardiner presents a unique perspective for casual underwear and outerwear aimed at the active person with a discerning taste for quality. Bringing together three years of technical education and years of experience rock climbing, Michelle’s collection demonstrates knowledge of practical and ergonomic body
design with ‘Thinsulate’ lining and taped seams. But with underwear references to Madonna’s iconic bras, this is a vision in keeping with fashion. Peachy pinks add to a base of browns, greys and black, coming alive in Michelle’s illustrations, which exemplify the interplay of her individual pieces when combined. mgardiner84@gmail.com 32
ROBERT FERNANDEZ
It is a bold statement to produce clothing emblazoned with religious emblems. But for Robert Fernandez, the austerity of traditional Orthodox Judaism provided a stunning inspiration for the diligent, striking illustrations of his casual menswear range. Sweatshirts and bottoms play with the trend for volume, whilst details derived from religious costume appear in pared down form, adorning the shoulders and waistbands to add a stylish twist to this wearable, modern collection. robertfernandez13 @hotmail.com
STEPHANIE JOHNSON Stephanie Johnson’s collection is driven by her belief in bespoke womenswear in wearable and eye-catching designs. Driving her ambition are her plans for a revolutionary new way of buying and selling clothes: Jovenna5. In a monthly showcase of professionals, Jovenna5 would transform the buying experience into an interactive and enjoyable experience that brings the excitement of design straight to the customer. Her first collection represents the modern, changing woman who expresses her power in clothes. Patterns curve and build upon the body to celebrate strength and shape whilst design quirks such as concertina sleeves allow the garments to move with the wearer. Designed to be worn year-round and personally accessorised, Stephanie’s clothes are a perfect transition from day to night. jovenna5.johnson @gmail.com