030117 bentobox

Japanese Culture | Hot Spots | Products

| Food

Mar. 2017

No. 25 FREE www.bentoboxmag.ca

SAKURA SEASON Feature

IN TOKYO TRAVEL TO HOT SPRING HEAVEN

Oita takes visitors from warm relaxation to devilish sights FEAST ON AUTHENTIC NOODLES

MeNami makes its fresh udon right here in Toronto

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Contents March 2017 No.25

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With noodles from scratch and a fusion twist, this is udon like you’ve never tasted before

04

Feature: Sakura season in Tokyo

08

Restaurant: New creations and classic fare

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Products: Springtime accessories

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Ingredient: The little red bean that could

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Sake: Hokko Junmai is a gem

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Travel: ͺP[H PZ H OV[ ZWYPUN WHYHKPZL

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Only in Japan: Uncanny eats

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MUJI picks: Solve your clutter woes

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Book: The light and dark sides of body art

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Sports: The next Babe Ruth is Japanese

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:[HɈ WPJR YLZ[H\YHU[! A fresh, funky feast

EDITOR’S NOTE

Nina Hoeschele

A new season is about to blossom After all this snow, who’s ready for spring? One of the most triumphant displays of nature waking back up after a long winter is the seasonal blooming of sakura (cherry blossoms)—and in Japan, they know how to make the most of this festive display. Find some of the best ways to celebrate the season in this issue!

Join the conversation on Facebook and Twitter facebook.com/bentoboxmag

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Editors Nina Hoeschele, Amanda Plyley, Yumi Nishio Editorial coordinators Nina Hoeschele, Yumi Nishio Writers Amanda Plyley, Amanda Taylor, Ariel Litteljohn, D’arcy Mulligan, James Heron, M Crowson, Nicholas Jones, Nina Lee, Sarah Dickson, Yumi Nishio Designers Chiyako Mukai, Reiko Ema

Photographer Kazu Maruyama

Production assistants Karin Yoshida, Kota Kai, Lisa Tower, Natsumi Komatsu, Yoichiro Ishizuka Advertisement & marketing Maiko Kurotaki Publisher Kazu Maruyama

Bento Box Communication Inc. | 600 Bay St., Suite 410, Toronto, ON, M5G 1M6 | Phone: 416-847-6799 | www.bentoboxmag.ca | Email: info@bentoboxmag.ca

ISSN 2368-9153

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MARCH 2017

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Sakura season in Tokyo

By Amanda Taylor

From the end of March to midApril, Tokyo’s cherry blossom trees burst into bloom and colour.

It’s no wonder that cherry blossom fever grips Japan every spring, or that the cherry blossom is such a prominent feature of Japanese art. For centuries the blossoms have been featured in music, on kimono prints and stoneware, in dances and plays—and Sakura, or “cherry blossom,” PZ L]LU H JVTTVU UHTL ;OLZL LSLNHU[ ÅV^LYZ are laced all through Japanese culture.

(Z [OL ÅV^LYZ ISVVT HU`[OPUN [OH[ JHU IL THKL in sakura ÅH]V\Y Z\YLS` ^PSS IL! Z^LL[ ZHR\YH lattes, sakura sake (sake with a delicious cherry infusion), pink and chewy sakura mochi (rice

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cakes), and even french fries from Japanese McDonald’s get served with a seaweed and sakura seasoning powder—although it’s a bit of an acquired taste. And during cherry blossom ZLHZVU SPTP[LK LKP[PVU ZHR\YH ÅH]V\YLK JOPWZ alcohol and chocolate take over the shelves of every convenience store.

6UJL [OL ÅV^LYZ YLHJO M\SS ISVVT H ZPTWSL [YLL lined path becomes a charming romantic corridor, or a regular garden becomes a miniature haven where one can sit among the delicate shadows VM [OL [YLLZ (Z [OL ÅV^LYZ \UMVSK THQVY WHYRZ

At night the lanterns are lit, illuminating the blossoms, and the crowds settle in for yozakura, or nighttime cherry blossom viewing. Many of Tokyo’s best cherry blossom spots stay open late for yozakura. Though the pink blossoms are beautiful against blue spring skies, the experience of seeing them at night might be even more breathtaking. The blossoms are transformed by the glow of the lanterns, their ghostly beauty surreal against the dark night sky.

The festival at Ueno Onshi Park is one of the most famous in the country. Although the park is crowded, the concentration of more than a thousand cherry blossom trees makes Ueno Park a prime cherry blossom viewing spot—possibly the most popular spot for cherry blossom viewing in Japan. Hundreds of thousands of people visit the park during sakura season, so be sure to arrive early to claim a picnic spot. At night, a thousand lanterns light up the blossoms from 5 until 8 in the evening.

Yoyogi Park near Harajuku may not have the same concentration of trees as Ueno Park, but it’s still a pretty active spot come sakura season.

The crowd tends to be younger, and every group seems to have its own music, whether it’s J-pop blaring from portable speakers or someone playing an acoustic guitar. Groups sit spaced out on tarps playing drinking games while the cherry blossoms shiver above.

[OYV\NOV\[ 1HWHU HYL ÅVVKLK ^P[O ]PZP[VYZ MVY hanami, or cherry blossom viewing parties. In Japan, (responsibly) consuming alcohol in public is allowed in many places, and it’s common for groups to get together under the trees with salty snacks and cold cans of beer, enjoying each othLY»Z JVTWHU` HUK [OL ÄYZ[ ^HYT KH`Z VM ZWYPUN But the best part of sakura season is the festivals that take place all over the city.

Meguro River never fails to draw large crowds.

During the Nakameguro Sakura Festival hundreds of trees bloom down the length of the

narrow Meguro River, their gorgeous branches seeming to reach toward each other across the water. The trees are complemented by bright pink lanterns, and chatter mixed with the calls of vendors echoes on the air. No celebration of sakura is complete without a bottomless supply of snacks, and the vendors lining the river are only too happy to oblige. Seasonal sakura champagne sparkles pink in the glasses of passersby as they stroll beside the water, while on the river pale petals dust the shimmering water like confetti, adding to the festive atmosphere.

As the season comes to a close the city prays for good weather. Spring rain or strong winds will wash the petals away early, and everyone wants the blossoms to hang on as long as possible. But as all Japanese know, everything has its season, HUK HZ [OL SHZ[ VM [OL ÅV^LYZ MHSS H^H` WLVWSL ÅVJR [V [OL WHYRZ MVY VUL SHZ[ Z[YVSS HTVUN [OL trees. Now most of the petals dust the ground and those that remain slowly fall, whirling from above, the saddest and yet the most beautiful part of cherry blossom season.

Though the sakura bloom just a brief two to three weeks every spring, it’s clear why these KLSPJH[L WPUR ÅV^LYZ HYL VUL VM 1HWHU»Z KLÄUPUN hallmarks.

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MARCH 2017

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Tokyo’s Blossom Itabashi Nerima

B

Nakano

Musashino City

B Inokashira Onshi Park Inokashira Onshi Park is known for its rowboat pond, and during sakura season visitors can rent a rowboat and glide under the dappled shadows of the blossoms on the water. There are 250 sakura trees around the pond alone!

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C Kinuta Park A less crowded spot for hanami. The wide lawns and spaced-out trees make Kinuta Park an ideal spot for a picnic under the pink canopy of the sakura trees—and entrance is free! This park is also a great choice for families with kids.

C

Toshim Shinju

Suginami

A Shinjuku Gyoen Shinjuku Gyoen is one of the most popular spots for hanami.

It offers plenty of space and a more peaceful atmosphere to enjoy the blossoms, and is especially popular with families.

The trees at Shinjuku Gyoen include numerous early and lateblooming trees, making it a perfect stop through the whole sakura season. However, alcoholic drinks are not permitted inside the park, so if you’re planning to enjoy a cold beer while taking in the view, it’s best to choose one of Tokyo’s numerous other cherry blossom hot spots.

A

K

Shibuya

Setagaya

Meguro

Shin

Yoshino cherry blossom

D Mouri Garden In Roppongi, the traditional grace of the sakura [YLLZ ISLUKZ ^P[O [OL TVKLYU ÅHZO HUK ULVU VM the city for a wonderful contrast. Mouri Garden, located behind Roppongi Hills Mori Tower, is the perfect place for a stroll through the trees.

Ota

Cherry m Spots Adachi

Kita

G

Arakawa

ma Bunkyo

E F

ku

D

Taito

H

Sumida Edogawa

Chiyoda Chuo

Katsushika

Koto

E Chidori-ga-fuchi Park At Chidori-ga-fuchi Park the branches of cherry blossom trees hang gracefully over the moat of the Imperial Palace, creating a rare scene that will draw out the photographer in anyone, from selfie enthusiasts to professionals. Once the sun sets the petals are backlit for nighttime viewing, and the petals reflect ghostly white off the black mirror of the water.

Minato

nagawa

The road to nearby Yasukuni Shrine is lined with stalls selling traditional Japanese street foods and, of course, cold beer. The crowds and delicious fried and savoury smells give the area a wonderfully festive atmosphere.

a

F Kokyo The Kokyo (or Tokyo Imperial Palace) east garden is a photographer’s paradise. The distinct Japanese architecture of the palace framed by the country’s famous cherry blossoms makes for photos steeped in Japanese iconography.

G Ueno Onshi Park One of the best and busiest spots to enjoy the blossoms is Ueno Park as over a thousand trees saturate the park with happy sakura blossoms. Be sure to arrive early in the day to get a picnic spot.

H Sumida River At Sumida River, take a stroll along the riverside or board a traditional yakatabune boat for a charming cruise trip. Cruisers can relax and watch the sakura trees drift by as Tokyo Skytree tower soars in the distance.

All photos courtesy of © JNTO unless otherwise noted

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MARCH 2017

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Hot Spot | Zakkushi

New creations and classic fare With the aim to promote and share Japan’s incredible food culture with the world, Zakkushi has taken izakaya fare to a whole new level.

Premium Set If you can’t decide where to start on the extensive menu, the Premium Set is a great party opener.

Hungry for more? Let’s dig in!

Zakkushi Set

Zakkushi is no newcomer to the restaurant ZJLUL! P[ VWLULK P[Z Ã&#x201E;YZ[ *HUHKPHU SVJH[PVU PU KV^U[V^U =HUJV\]LY PU HUK ^HZ ^HYTS` ^LSJVTLK [V ;VYVU[V PU :V ^OH[ NP]LZ [OL AHRR\ZOP .YV\W P[Z Z[H`PUN WV^LY& <ZPUN binchotan JOHYJVHS PTWVY[LK MYVT 1HWHU AHRR\ZOP ^HZ [OL Ã&#x201E;YZ[ YLZ[H\YHU[ [V IYPUN NLU\PUL JOHYJVHS NYPSSLK yakitori ZRL^LYZ [V *HUHKH HUK P[ OHZ ILLU KLSPNO[PUN *HUHKPHUZ ^P[O ZH]V\Y` 1HWHULZL ZV\S MVVK L]LY ZPUJL

UL^ KPZOLZ [OH[ `V\ WHY[PJ\SHYS` KVU»[ ^HU[ [V TPZZ PM `V\»YL ZLLRPUN [OL H\[OLU[PJ 1HWHULZL PaHRH`H L_WLYPLUJL 6YVZOP (NLTVJOP PZ MYPLK mochi YPJL JHRL ZLY]LK PU H YPJO HUK ZSPNO[S` Z^LL[ IYV[O ;OL MYPLK TVJOP PZ JYPZW` VU [OL V\[ZPKL HUK ZVM[ PUZPKL HUK [VWWLK ^P[O NYH[LK KHPRVU YHKPZO 4LHU^OPSL (ZHYP ;Z\I\RHP -VPS @HRP PZ H KLSPJPV\Z ^H` [V [HZ[L [OL Ã&#x2026;H]V\YZ VM [OL VJLHU 7VHJOLK PU MVPS [OL KPZO PZ I\[[LY` HUK ZH]V\Y` ^P[O HU HJJLU[ VM NHYSPJ

0M `V\ JHU»[ KLJPKL ^OH[ [V [Y` VU [OL L_[LUZP]L TLU\ Z[HY[ ^P[O [OLPY ZPNUH[\YL `HRP[VYP WSH[LZ HUK TV]L VU [V [OLPY UL^LZ[ KPZOLZ AHRR\ZOP»Z JOLMZ RUV^ [OLPY ^H` HYV\UK H JOHYJVHS NYPSS HZ [OLPY TV\[O ^H[LYPUN `HRP[VYP ZRL^LYZ H[[LZ[· I\[ [OLYL PZ Q\Z[ HZ T\JO H[[LU[PVU [V KL[HPS VU [OL UVU NYPSS ZPKL VM [OL TLU\ ;OLYL HYL [^V

6M JV\YZL [OL SH[LZ[ TLU\ JOHUNLZ PUJS\KL H UL^ `HRP[VYP LU[Y` [VV! JOHYJVHS NYPSSLK /HTHJOP ;LYP`HRP 9PJO HUK MH[[` hamachi PZ H NYLH[ JVTWHUPVU [V H IV[[SL VM ILLY VY H tokkuri VM ZHRL *VTL HUK L_WLYPLUJL [OL UL^ AHRR\ZOP

Asari & Tsubukai Foil Yaki ;OL Q\PJ` HYVTH VM [^V RPUKZ VM JSHTZ ^YHWWLK \W [VNL[OLY PU MVPS ;OL SPNO[ Ã&#x2026;H]V\YM\S IYV[O PZ H ^VUKLYM\S JVTWSLTLU[ [V HU` ZHRL

Teppan Gyoza ,UQV` [OL ZPaaSPUN ZV\UK HUK [OL Z^LL[ HUK ZV\Y Z[HYJO` ZH\JL [OH[ JVTL ^P[O [OLZL JYPZW` MYPLK K\TWSPUNZ

Try a selection of the most popular skewers on the menu. Traditional charcoal grilling at its best.

Oroshi Agemochi AHRR\ZOP»Z JOHSSLUNL (M[LY YLJLP]PUN YH]L YL]PL^Z ^OLU P[ JHTL V\[ HZ H ZLHZVUHS P[LT [OPZ KPZO OHZ ILLU \WNYHKLK [V H YLN\SHY P[LT VU [OL TLU\

Perfect bites made with prized charcoal )PUJOV[HU PZ H ^OP[L JOHYJVHS THKL MYVT 1HWHULZL VHR 0[ WYVK\JLZ UV Ã&#x2026;HTL VY VKV\Y HUK YL[HPUZ OLH[ H[ L]LU [LTWLYH[\YLZ THRPUN P[ PKLHS MVY NYPSSPUN

Zakkushi www.zakkushi.com/carlton TEL: 647-352-9455 *HYS[VU :[ ;VYVU[V NEW OPEN HOURS Daily 5:30 pmâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;1 am

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MARCH 2017

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Hot

Featured

in

Japan

PRODUCTS

Kyototo is ready for the new season with a line of accessories that celebrate the beauty of springtime sweets.

01

Mochi style

Embrace the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi with these cute patches.

Pi k P Pink Peony Rice Cakes

Cherry Blossom Rice Cakes

3 Color Dumplings for Cherry Blossom Viewing

Red Plum Rice Cakes

Colorful Maple Leaf Sweets

Hydrangea Rice Cakes

Colorful Camellia Rice Cakes

Rabbit Shaped Rice Cakes

Kyototo makes it easy to incorporate wabi-sabi, the Japanese concept of embracing imperfection and visible repairs, into everyday life. Kyototo’s line of adorable patches can be added to your wardrobe to make a torn jacket or backpack beautiful again—or even just as a cute accent on a new piece. These sweet patches from Kyototo’s wagashi series feature mochi (rice cake) treats, which are especially popular during cherry blossom season, as well as a variety of savoury seasonal goodies.

Celebrate the coming springtime with the three-colour dumpling patch or the cherry blossom rice cake, both popular snacks to accompany spring cherry blossom viewing.

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This adorable patch looks great on a denim jacket.

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Clip-on style

You’ll have cute coming out of your ears with these earrings and hairpins.

(JJLZZVYPaL HU` V\[Ä[ ^P[O 2`V[V[V»Z hairpins and earrings. Like other products in the wagashi series, these accessories feature seasonal sweets embroidered with great attention to detail. The hairpins come in a wide variety of styles and make a beautiful addition to a Japanese kimono or your everyday wardrobe. The earrings

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come in three adorable designs: red plum cakes, morning glory rice cakes and rabbit-shaped rice cakes. Earrings are also available in both secure clip-on and pierced options, meaning there is nothing getting in the way of welcoming spring with these adorable earrings.

These clip-onss feature securee backs.

PRACTICAL STYLE

These accessories will keep your things safe while you’re on the go this spring.

Each pouch is spacious inside.

The padded roll-up style keeps your glasses secure.

More info about these products

The bale-shaped pouches can double as pen cases.

Kyototo | www.kyototo.jp/en

If you’re looking for a more functional way to show your appreciation for Japanese seasonal treats, check out Kyototo’s handy pouches and glasses cases. The baleshaped pouches feature metal closures that OLSW RLLW `V\Y Z[\ќ ZLJ\YLK ^OL[OLY P[»Z makeup, accessories or other useful items.

The glasses cases are soft and padded with cotton to protect your specs. These items feature beautifully designed fabrics printed with images of various sweets and are elegantly embroidered with the name of each treat. These accessories contain as much attention to design and detail as goes into crafting the seasonal treats they depict. www.bentoboxmag.ca

MARCH 2017

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Ingredient | Azuki

By Amanda Plyley

ă ťă Łă &#x201C;ă&#x201A;&#x160;ă &#x2014;ă &#x;ĺ?Łĺ˝&#x201C;ă &#x;ă&#x201A;&#x160;ă &#x152; é­&#x2026;ĺ&#x160;&#x203A;ă Žĺ°?ă &#x2022;ă &#x201E;ă &#x160;čą&#x2020;ă&#x20AC;&#x201A;

Azuki ĺ°?čą&#x2020;

So where might have you seen these little guys before? Likely in both sweet and savoury dishes plus soups, teas and even soft drinks. Adzuki ILHUZ HYL \ZLK HJYVZZ [OL IVHYK PU 1HWHULZL cooking, where they are also referred to as shozu, a Chinese loanword literally translating [V ¸ZTHSS ILHU š @V\ÂťSS Ă&#x201E;UK [OLT PU IV[O ILHU and paste form, topping rice and salads, boiled into teas and hot soups and adding a punch VM Ă&#x2026;H]V\Y [V Q\Z[ HIV\[ HU` KLZZLY[ [OH[ JVTLZ to mind. As the adzuki bean craze continues [V NYV^ PU WVW\SHYP[` LHJO `LHY THQVY MVVK and drink manufacturers are catching on and giving the public what they want. Red bean ice JYLHTZ HYL H Z[HWSL PU 1HWHU HUK IHJR PU there was even a specially released, adzukiĂ&#x2026;H]V\YLK 7LWZP H]HPSHISL

ă&#x20AC;?ă &#x201A;ă &#x161;ă ?ă&#x20AC;&#x2018;

The little red bean that could

Beans, beans, the magical fruit. The more you eat, the more you â&#x20AC;Ś gain essential nutrients!

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve lived or travelled in Asia, or even ordered dessert in one of Torontoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many Asian restaurants, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve probably tasted the adzuki bean. Typically a rusty red colour with a rich, U\[[` Ă&#x2026;H]V\Y [OPZ SP[[SL ILHU ZPTWS` JHSSLK azuki PU 1HWHULZL PZ ZTHSS I\[ TPNO[` IVHZ[PUN H long history and a promising future.

Native to parts of east Asia, adzuki beans grow in moderate climates on vines that reach up to three feet tall. First domesticated around 3000

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BCE, the vines and their beans now exist in three varieties: wild, cultivated and a weed form that is considered a pest to cultivation. The plant is an annual herb that sprouts bright yelSV^ Ă&#x2026;V^LYZ HUK SHYNL NYLLU SLH]LZ PU HKKP[PVU to the 5-mm beans, taking anywhere from 80 to 120 days to reach full maturity. Since the beans are averse to extreme weather conditions, both frigid and tropical, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re particular about NYV^PUN VUS` PU ZWLJPĂ&#x201E;J YLNPVUZ¡HUK 1HWHU PZ the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s primary adzuki bean cultivator.

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not enticed by the beanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s slightly Z^LL[ YVI\Z[ Ă&#x2026;H]V\Y HUK J\SPUHY` ]LYZH[PSP[` perhaps the impressive amount of health benLĂ&#x201E;[Z P[ OHZ [V VŃ&#x153;LY ^PSS JVU]PUJL `V\ [V NP]L P[ H try. Where to start? Though they may be small, adzuki beans are mighty healthy: one cup pro]PKLZ HU HYYH` VM U\[YPLU[Z PUJS\KPUN ZPNUPĂ&#x201E;JHU[ portions of your recommended daily intake of iron, magnesium, potassium, zinc and vitamin B. As part of the legume family, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re low in calories and fat, easy to digest and packed full VM WYV[LPU¡WLYMLJ[ MVY HU`VUL SVVRPUN [V SVZL or maintain weight, or those seeking out meat HS[LYUH[P]LZ /PNO PU KPL[HY` Ă&#x201E;IYL [OL` OLSW regulate blood sugar levels and aid in diabetes prevention. And with lots of folic acid, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re perfect for pregnant women.

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no shortage of ways to incorporate adzuki beans into your diet. Indulge in one of [OL THU` 1HWHULZL YLK ILHU KLZZLY[Z [Y` [OLT PU H IPN WV[ VM ]LNL[HYPHU JOPSP VY Ă&#x2026;PW \W H IH[JO of Oprahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s adzuki bean pancakes.

Sake | Kadoguchi Sake Brewery

By Ariel Litteljohn

長野県最北端の蔵元。厳寒の澄みきった 空気と清らかな湧き水から作られる酒。

Hokko Junmai 北光純米【ほっこうじゅんまい】 A gem of a sake Pure and rich, Hokko Junmai is a creamy drink with delicious undertones VM ÅVYHS IV\X\L[Z HUK YPWL TLSVU

L

ocated in Iiyama city, the “little Kyoto of Snow Country,” nestled among the mountains in the far northern Nagano Prefecture, lives Kadoguchi Sake Brewery. Winters in northern Nagano see heavy snowfalls of three metres or more, and are often harsh and cold, while in summers the mountainous terrain makes it a popular spot for hikers. Kadoguchi Sake Brewery was established here in 1869, HUK PZ UV^ PU P[Z ÄM[O NLULYH[PVU VM IYL^LYZ Among the brewery’s specialties is Hokko Junmai sake, a dry sake that can be enjoyed chilled, at room temperature or warmed. White

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rice grown locally (Hitogokochi) is used to make Kadoguchi’s Hokko Junmai. Junmai sakes are considered to be the purest of sakes, not containing any added distilled alcohol and not made with added sugars or starches. Like with wines, there are many categories of sake; however, unlike with wines, which are classiÄLK I` [OL [`WL VM NYHWL ZHRLZ HYL JSHZZPÄLK by the percentage that the rice has been milled (seimai-buai) as well as by the method of brewing. Junmai sakes are made with rice that has been milled to at least 70%, meaning that the rice has been polished to the point where no more than 70% of the original size of the grain

remains (so, at least 30% of the outer layer of each rice grain has been ground away).

The taste of Hokko Junmai contains hints of Z^LL[ TLSVU WLHY MLUULS HUK TLSSV^ ÅVYHS bouquets that add richness and smoothness.

When enjoyed chilled, the taste is creamy and coconut-y, with a pleasing, slightly bitter aftertaste. One might describe chilled Hokko Junmai to be heavy in umami. When consumed warm (though not OV[ [OL ÅH]V\YZ HYL TVYL muted, though the sake is still satisfying and delicious. Hokko Junmai appears clear in a glass, with only a slight tinge of yellow-green chartreuse, and has good clarity.

Hokko Junmai sake is a perfect accompaniment for sushi or sashimi, but also pairs nicely with less-traditional options such as smoked salmon, gamey meats, steaks, foie gras and ricotta cheese with dill. The alcohol content of Hokko Junmai is 15.2% and, like other Junmai sakes, it is fuller and richer than the average sake, with a higher acidity level (1.4).

Starting in April, Hokko Junmai sake will be available at your local LCBO.

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MARCH 2017

15

Travel | Oita: Beppu & Yufuin

By Nina Lee

Oita: Beppu & Yufuin 日本一の おんせん県 とも言われる大分県。 湯煙の街ならではの光景は圧巻。

©Beppu Kankou Kyoukai

From the bubbling hells of Beppu to the heavenly views from Mt. Yufu and Kunisaki Peninsula, Oita is a paradise of Oit immeasurable beauties.

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A must-see for any hot VSULQJ DÀFLRQDGR “Welcome to Hell,” announces the menacing Japanese devil (or oni) at the Beppu jigoku trail.

Located just outside the town of Beppu, the jigoku or “hells” are a popular tourist destination where visitors can watch geysers erupt and muddy waters bubble, coloured by minerals in vibrant shades of red and azure. Visitors to the QPNVR\ HYL PU]P[LK [V [Y` LNNZ ÄZO ]LNL[HISLZ and even custard puddings that are cooked here in the geothermal waters. Weary travellers are also encouraged to dip their aching feet in small WVUKZ ÄSSLK ^P[O UH[\YHSS` OLH[LK HUK TPULYHS rich water, called ashiyu. Beppu is home to more than 2,900 hot spring vents, and in addition to

the jigoku, eight famous hot spring districts, known as the Beppu Hatto, beckon locals and tourists alike to soak in their therapeutic waters while experiencing the picturesque scenery of the local mountains and turn-of-the-century buildings. Just outside the city centre, the YukeT\YP 6IZLY]H[VY` VќLYZ ZWLJ[HJ\SHY ]PL^Z VM [OL entire region. The sight of these hot springs at night, venting steam illuminated by the lights in the town, is unforgettable.

Located nearby is the onsen (hot spring) resort town of Yufuin, home to an idyllic mix of shops selling traditional Japanese crafts, numerous ryokan (inns) and six onsen nestled in the valley below the twin peaks of Mt. Yufu. Visitors stroll between the shops and food stalls trying various delicacies such as bakudan-yaki (dough balls

Explore Japan off the beaten path

Enter hot spring heaven

)LWW\ 2HURV\ 2`V\RHP

ÄSSLK ^P[O VJ[VW\Z JOLLZL RPTJOP OV[ KVNZ VY JVYU JOLLZLJHRL HUK OVUL` ÅH]V\YLK PJL JYLHT ILMVYL LUQV`PUN H YLSH_PUN ZVHR PU HU VUZLU ;OL YLSH[P]LS` LHZ` OPRL HYV\UK 4[ @\M\ PZ H WSLHZHU[ ^H` [V ZWLUK [OL HM[LYUVVU HUK [OL [VW VM LP[OLY WLHR YL^HYKZ OPRLYZ ^P[O H IYLH[O[HRPUN ]PZ[H VM [YLLZ OPSSZ HUK YP]LYZ KV[[LK ^P[O Z[LHT YPZPUN HIV]L )LWW\ HUK @\M\PU

The Kunisaki Peninsula holds sacred places of power 5VY[O VM [OL )LWW\ HUK @\M\PU YLNPVUZ PZ [OL ZWPYP[\HS 2\UPZHRP 7LUPUZ\SH OVTL [V ZVTL VM 1HWHU»Z TVZ[ ]LULYHISL )\KKOPZ[ [LTWSLZ ULZ[SLK ^P[OPU [OL TV\U[HPUZ HUK NVYNLZ VM 4[

-\[HNV 6UL VM [OL SVJHS [V^UZ )\UNV ;HRHKH PZ RUV^U HZ )\KKOH»Z =PSSHNL! P[ MLH[\YLZ )\K KOPZ[ [LTWSLZ KH[PUN MYVT HZ MHY IHJR HZ (+ HZ ^LSS HZ H YLJYLH[LK :OV^H LYH [V^U HUK PZ [OL ZL[[PUN MVY THU` 1HWHULZL WLYPVK TV]PLZ HUK ;= KYHTHZ -\[HNV QP [LTWSL ZP[Z H[ [OL Z\TTP[ VM 4[ -\[HNV HUK IVHZ[Z Z[\UUPUN ]PL^Z VM H\[\TU MVSPHNL HUK ZWYPUN MVYLZ[Z ;OL Z[LWZ VM ULHYI` ;HPaV QP [LTWSL HYL JOHSSLUNPUN OV^L]LY [OL ^HSR [OYV\NO [OL MVYLZ[ HUK WHZ[ [OL HUJPLU[ )\KKOH Z[H[\LZ SVJH[LK LU YV\[L HYL ^LSS ^VY[O [OL KPѝJ\S[` 2\UPZHRP 7LUPUZ\SH PZ HSZV H [YLHZ\YL [YV]L VM KLSPJPV\Z J\PZPULZ NH[O LYLK MYVT [OL Z\YYV\UKPUN LU]PYVUZ :PS]LY` seki aji OVYZL THJRLYLS HUK fugu W\ќLY ÄZO ZHZOPTP JH\NO[ I` SVJHS ÄZOLYTLU HYL H KLSLJ[HISL [YLH[ ^OPSL [OL shiitake T\ZOYVVTZ HUK kabosu SPTLZ MHYTLK PU [OL YLNPVU HYL JVUZPKLYLK [V IL

elcome w h s i l i v A de u jigoku p p e B t a

*OP`HRV 4\RHP

Beppu & Yufuin 【別府＆湯布院】 ;OPZ HYLH PZ OVTL [V 1HWHU»Z SHYNLZ[ JHJOL VM NLV[OLYTHS OV[ ZWYPUNZ 4LHU^OPSL VU 2\UPZHRP 7LUPUZ\SH KL]PSZ ^YLHR OH]VJ H[ UPNO[ HUK )\KKOPZ[ TVURZ ÄUK [YHUX\PSP[` K\YPUN [OL KH`

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17

Travel | Oita: Beppu & Yufuin

Japan’s best. Locally caught sea bream is often marinated in soy sauce and served in a bowl of rice and green tea in a dish (tai-chazuke) nicknamed ureshino, which means “I’m happy”!

Oita’s O it rich and varied climate offers many sights The region’s unique geography, combining subtropical, warm climates with coastline, moun[HPUZ HUK ]VSJHUV YHUNLZ VќLYZ [V\YPZ[Z THU` interesting destinations to visit. Of particular note, the Kirishima Range, a belt of volcanoes that runs across the centre of the prefecture, is the source of the many hot springs that make the region so popular. The area has over 700 kilometres of coastline with numerous caves, mountains, highlands, valleys and dense forests, making it a fantastic place to hike, spelunk and enjoy swimming in the pristine rivers and natural pools. And it’s easily reached

by Sonic Nichirin express train from Kokura Station, located in Kitakyushu.

From mouth-watering delicacies to breathtakPUN ]PL^Z ͺP[H LU[PJLZ [YH]LSSLYZ [V LTIYHJL [OL ambience and fall in love with its environment.

©Chiyako Mukai

Food & souvenirs

Discover the region’s tasty eats and indulgent treats

Sweet and succulent delicacies culled from the local waters, forests and valleys offer visitors an authentic taste of Oita.

Oita

©Beppu Kankou Kyoukai

Jigoku Mushi Pudding

Tori-ten

:KDW EHWWHU ZD\ WR EULQJ KRPH D OLWWOH ELW RI LWD WKDQ ZLWK a delicious custard-style pudding made from the steaming, mineral-rich geothermal waters of Beppu and Yufuin?

(M[LY H SVUN KH` VM OPRPUN HUK IH[OPUN PUK\SNL PU ͺP[H»Z soul food, tori-ten. A tempura-style fried chicken, toriten is served with ponzu sauce and mustard.

All photos ©Tourism Oita unless otherwise noted

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www.bentoboxmag.ca

MARCH 2017

19

Only in Japan | Yoshoku

By M Crowson

Uncanny eats .L[ V\[ VM `V\Y PU[LYUH[PVUHS JVTMVY[ aVUL ^P[O 1HWHULZL Z[`SL >LZ[LYU MVVK オムライスにハンバーグ。大人気のナポリタンはお箸でどうぞ。

t’s Whang ? wro

What happened to my bun and fries?

Illustration by Reiko Ema

1HWHU PZ \[VWPH MVY HU` [Y\L MVVKPL ;OL 1HWHULZL JVVR ^P[O HU HќLJ[PVUH[L HY[PZ[Y` [OH[ THRLZ L]LY` KPZO \UPX\LS` KLSPJPV\Z ^OPJO PZ ^O` [OL`»YL ZV MHTV\Z MVY ¯ VTLSL[[LZ HUK OHTI\YNLYZ& ;OH[»Z YPNO[ 0U HKKP[PVU [V OPNO JSHZZ Z\ZOP HUK IP[L ZPaLK mochi, Japan is a land of reinvented >LZ[LYU MVVK JVTTVUS` RUV^U HZ `ͻZOVR\ (洋 食 @ͻZOVR\ HYL HKHW[H[PVUZ VM JSHZZPJ KPZOLZ MYVT HYV\UK [OL >LZ[LYU ^VYSK HUK [OL` JHU IL MV\UK HSS V]LY [OL JV\U[Y` MYVT HќVYKHISL KPULY

style family restaurants, to pizza delivery compaUPLZ [V \WZJHSL ÄUL KPUPUN 0U 1HWHU [OL NVVK VS» (TLYPJHU OHTI\YNLY OHZ ILJVTL H hambaagu (ハンバーグ), which is H TP_ IL[^LLU H I\YNLY HUK H :HSPZI\Y` Z[LHR ZLY]LK I\USLZZ ^P[O H KLTP NSHJL ZH\JL ;OL OHTIHHN\ PZ H WVW\SHY P[LT PU RPK»Z ILU[V IV_LZ [VV 0M `V\ OH]L H SH[L UPNO[ WPaaH JYH]PUN `V\ JHU VYKLY PU HUK JOVVZL MYVT H O\NL YHUNL VM

ZWLJPHS[` WPLZ ^P[O HU HZZVY[TLU[ VM [VWWPUNZ PUJS\KPUN ZLH^LLK Z[YPWZ ÅH]V\YLK TH`VUUHPZL WV[H[V JO\URZ H]VJHKV Z^LL[ JVYU HUK SL[[\JL SLH]LZ 1HWHU HSZV OHZ H YHUNL VM KLSPJPV\Z -YLUJO PUZWPYLK JOLLZ` YLJPWLZ :VTL JVTTVU variations are guratan (グラタン) and doria (ドリ ア ! N\YH[HU VY 1HWHULZL ¸NYH[PU¹ PZ H THJHYVUP KPZO ^P[O ItJOHTLS ZH\JL [VWWLK ^P[O JOLLZL HUK V]LU IYV^ULK ¸+VYPH¹ PZ ZPTPSHY I\[ ^P[O YPJL PUZ[LHK VM UVVKSLZ HUK VM[LU ^P[O [LUKLY ZOYPTW ;OLYL HYL THU` RPUKZ VM `ͻZOVR\ I\[ [OL TVZ[ MHTV\Z PZ WYVIHIS` [OL VT\YHPZ\ (オムライス), or ¸YPJL VTLSL[[L ¹ H Z^LL[ RL[JO\W JVVRLK WHSTM\S VM YPJL ^YHWWLK PU H [OPU SH`LY VM LNN (UV[OLY RL[JO\W IHZLK KPZO PZ [OL ZWHNOL[[P 5HWVSP[HU ^OPJO HKKZ RL[JO\W PU[V [OL YLK ZH\JL MVY H Z^LL[ HќVYKHISL ]HYPH[PVU VU MYLZO [VTH[V ZH\JL Japanese experimentation with Western food ILNHU PU [OL SH[L [O JLU[\Y` I\[ THU` VM [VKH`»Z TVZ[ WVW\SHY P[LTZ ^LYL ÄYZ[ PU[YVK\JLK PU [OL WVZ[^HY WLYPVK -VY L_HTWSL [OL 5HWVSP[HU KPZO ^HZ PU]LU[LK I` :OPNL[HKH 0YPL H JOLM ^OV ZLY]LK .LULYHS 4HJ(Y[O\Y PU [OL ÄYZ[ KH`Z VM [OL <: 6JJ\WH[PVU >HU[PUN [V HJJVTTVKH[L OPZ N\LZ[ :OPNL[HKH PU]LU[LK [OL KPZO \ZPUN PUZWPYH[PVU MYVT H RL[JO\W IHZLK ZWHNOL[[P VќLYLK HZ WHY[ VM <: TPSP[HY` YH[PVUZ @ͻZOVR\ ILNHU HZ HU L_WSVYH[PVU VM MVYLPNU MVVKZ I\[ OHZ ZPUJL ILJVTL HU PU[LNYHS WHY[ VM 1HWHULZL J\PZPUL 0U MHJ[ THU` VM [OL Z[HUKHYK P[LTZ `V\ ÄUK H[ SVJHS 1HWHULZL YLZ[H\YHU[Z HYL HJ[\HSS` `ͻZOVR\ dishes, from [VURH[Z\ [V J\YY` YPJL

Cross-cultural eat-iquette You could say that `ȬZOVR\ PZ H RPUK VM M\ZPVU MVVK I\[ L]LU L_WLYPTLU[HS LH[PUN JVTLZ ^P[O Y\SLZ /LYL HYL [OYLL ^H`Z [V NL[ V]LY [OL ,HZ[ >LZ[ KP]PKL HUK LH[ SPRL H JOHTW!

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DO

DO NOT

DO

act like a native.

expect a copy of Western food.

point and order.

0[»Z 62 [V LH[ `V\Y Z[LHR HUK ZWHNOL[[P ^P[O JOVWZ[PJRZ OLYL When in Rome … or ;VR`V YH[OLY¯

@ͻZOVR\ TH` IL >LZ[ PUZWPYLK I\[ [OLZL KPZOLZ OH]L ILLU YLPU]LU[LK MVY 1HWHULZL [HZ[LZ

4HU` `ͻZOVR\ YLZ[H\YHU[Z have picture menus, so you JHU Z[PSS NYHI H IP[L L]LU PM `V\ JHU»[ YLHK 1HWHULZL

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MARCH 2017

21

Tokyo’s Best

Cherry Blossom Spots Tour

1 Visit Tokyo’s most popular cherry blossom viewing sites on this 1-day bus tour. The tour includes visits to some of Japan’s most famous cherry blossom viewing sites including Showa Kinen Park and Chidori-ga-fuchi (or Shinjuku Gyoen), as well as sightseeing around some of Tokyo’s most iconic landmarks such as Tokyo Tower.

2 Inside Showa Kinen Park, admire a scenic landscape formed by roughly 200 cherry trees and an expansive lawn. When in season, tulips and rapeseed blossoms can also be seen blooming radiantly.

3 Head up 150 metres to the Tokyo Tower observation deck to take in the 360-degree view of Tokyo and the stunning view of cherry blossoms down below.

TOUR BASIC INFORMATION Seasonal Tour: Mar 23–Apr 16, 2017, Daily

Departure city: Tokyo Visits: Tokyo Tower, Showa Kinen Park, Chidori-ga-fuchi or Shinjuku Gyoen Duration: approx. 9 hours English-speaking guide, lunch, other admission fees and transportation costs included in the tour.

PRICE

CAD $

135

*Price is valid for the month of March 2017 *Price may fluctuate due to change in exchange rate.

HOW TO PURCHASE Reservations can be made by either telephone or email. Please contact JTB International (Canada) Ltd. at Phone: 416-367-5824 | Toll-free: 1-800-268-5942 | Email: jtbtoronto@jtbi.com | Website: www.jtb.ca

I T I N E R A RY 8:30

Depart from Shinjuku

Japanese-style Lunch 60

Depart from Check-in Counter on the 3rd floor of Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo’s Main Tower in Shinjuku

Showa Kinen Park

Vegetarian meals available

Tokyo Tower Main Observatory

90

min

The entire park is home to approximately 1,500 cherry trees that bloom in full glory.

Inside, there is a vast garden with a beautiful landscape formed by roughly 200 cherry trees amidst sweeping lawns. There is also a bridge from where rows of cherry trees can be seen lining the river. Participants will be guided to the captivating cherry blossom viewing spots in the park.

Enjoy spring in Japan to the fullest as you gaze upon delightful tulips, rapeseed blossoms, bonsai trees, a Japanese garden and other blooms of the season.

min

60

min

B Shinjuku Gyoen Shinjuku Gyoen opened in 1906 as a modern European-style garden for the Imperial Family. When spring comes, 65 varieties of cherry tree bloom proudly throughout a long period. Those who missed the cherry trees’ peak blooming times can still enjoy cherry blossom viewing here.

Enjoy a bird’s-eye view of cherry blossoms!

See a sweeping panorama of the city from 150 metres above the ground.

or A

Chidori-ga-fuchi/Kitanomaru Park or B Shinjuku Gyoen 60

*The tour will be guided to one of the locations depending on cherry tree blooming conditions.

min

A Chidori-ga-fuchi Possibly the most popular cherry blossom viewing spot, this place is visited by over 1 million people from all over the country each year. Delight in the wonderful scenery of a tunnel of beautiful blooms formed by 260 Yoshino and Oshima cherry trees along the water.

A B

Tokyo Station Shinjuku Station

*The drop-off location will vary depending on the itinerary.

Information will be announced by the guide on the day.

A Tokyo Station If the tour visits Chidori-ga-fuchi, drop-off location will be near Tokyo Station at 17:15. Tour ends near Tokyo Station.

B Shinjuku Station If the tour visits Shinjuku Gyoen, drop-off location will be near Shinjuku Station at 17:00. Tour ends near Shinjuku Station.

After disembarking, please head to your next destination on your own.

For more information, please contact JTB International at 1-800-268-5942 (toll-free) or email at jtbtoronto@jtbi.com www.bentoboxmag.ca

All photos ©JNTO

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23

The Japanese answer to your cluttered closet 08-,Ĺ&#x2013;V 33 6WRUDJH OLQH RÄłHUV PLQLPDOLVW PRGXODU VWRUDJH WKDW \RX FDQ EXLOG WR ÄąOO DQ\ VSDFH

Jesse Chan Sales associate

When explaining MUJI to people who are new to the brand, Jesse, one of the housewares experts at the Atrium SVJH[PVU VM[LU Ă&#x201E;UKZ MYPLUKZ [Y`PUN [V WPNLVUOVSL 4<10 HZ H 1HWHULZL ]LYZPVU VM 0RLH (UK VU Ă&#x201E;YZ[ inspection, MUJIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s PP Storage line might look SPRL ZVTL[OPUN `V\ÂťK Ă&#x201E;UK H[ [OL :^LKPZO YL[HPSLY However, Ikea builds their storage solutions ^P[O H VUL ZPaL Ă&#x201E;[Z HSS TLU[HSP[` @V\ JHU VYKLY custom shelving, but once itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s built, it JHU IL KPŃ?J\S[ [V YLW\YWVZL VY TV]L [V V[OLY YVVTZ SLH]PUN `V\ [V VYNHUPaL your life around its design. MUJI takes a more progressive approach, providPUN J\Z[VTLYZ ^P[O H Ă&#x2026;L_PISL WHSL[[L of modular PP Storage units that can IL JVTIPULK PU[V H ZVS\[PVU [V Ă&#x201E;[ `V\Y SPMLZ[`SL HUK LHZPS` YLHYYHUNLK ZOV\SK `V\Y ULLKZ JOHUNL

that the line is made from. This material makes PP Storage units strong and light, and its ZLTP [YHUZWHYLU[ Ă&#x201E;UPZO TLHUZ [OH[ `V\ JHU IL reminded of whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stored inside without having [OL JVU[LU[Z VU M\SS KPZWSH` As Jesse introduced us to the PP Storage line, ^L OHK [OL YL]LSH[PVU [OH[ ^OH[ 4<10 PZ VŃ&#x153;LYPUN here is the storage equivalent of Lego: drawers and bins in a wide range of sizes and depths, ^OPJO `V\ JHU JVTIPUL HU PUĂ&#x201E;UP[L U\TILY VM ^H`Z ;OL`ÂťYL Z[HJRHISL SPRL 3LNV HUK JHU IL customized with the addition of partitions, or made movable with modular wheels. Whether `V\ OH]L HU HTWSL HTV\U[ VM ZWHJL [V ^VYR HYV\UK VY `V\ÂťYL [Y`PUN [V ZX\LLaL H ML^ KYH^-

LYZ PU[V H [PU` HWHY[TLU[ [OL 77 :[VYHNL SPUL OHZ `V\Y VYNHUPaH[PVUHS ULLKZ JV]LYLK Want to add a long drawer to make use of Z[VYHNL ZWHJL \UKLY `V\Y ILK& 4<10 OHZ HU extra-deep PP Storage unit for that. Have some YVVT H[ [OL IV[[VT VM `V\Y JSVZL[ [OH[ JV\SK IL IL[[LY \ZLK& )\PSK [OL WLYMLJ[ ZL[ VM KYH^LYZ MVY VŃ&#x153; ZLHZVU NHYTLU[Z I` Z[HJRPUN H ML^ 77 :[VYage bins. The MUJI Atrium location sees a lot of businesspeople using PP Storage units as desk organizers, and Jesse has even seen a friend use the smaller PP drawers to store sneakers.

As PP Storage has been designed using the dedication to smart minimalism for which MUJI PZ MHTV\Z [OLZL \UP[Z Ă&#x201E;[ ZLHTSLZZS` PU[V HU` ZL[[PUN @V\ JHU L]LU JVTIPUL [OL PP Storage line with other MUJI house^HYLZ HZ [OL` Ă&#x201E;[ WLYMLJ[S` PU[V 4<10ÂťZ modular, stacking shelves!

0M `V\ÂťYL SVVRPUN [V SLHYU TVYL HIV\[ HSS the options available in the PP Storage SPUL ]PZP[ HU` VM [OL ;VYVU[V SVJH[PVUZ where one of MUJIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s housewares experts ^PSS IL TVYL [OHU OHWW` [V OLSW `V\ Ă&#x201E;UK [OL WLYMLJ[ ZVS\[PVU MVY `V\Y ZWHJL

;OPZ PZ WYLJPZLS` ^OH[ ^LÂť]L JVTL [V L_WLJ[ MYVT 4<10ÂťZ SLHKPUN SPMLZ[`SL brand: reliable options in a clean, minimalist esthetic. ;OL 77 Z[HUKZ MVY WVS`WYVW`SLUL [OL OHYK ^LHYPUN LHZ` [V JSLHU WSHZ[PJ

T is line makes it Th ea e sy to organize your belongings

For more information

www.muji.com/ca

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The bins are lig htweig ht, durable and easy to clean

MUJI Atrium

MUJI Square One

MUJI Yorkdale

Atrium, 20 Dundas St. W., C-03, Toronto | TEL: 416-591-2233

Square One Shopping Centre, *P[` *LU[YL +Y 4PZZPZZH\NH TEL: 905-276-2737

+\Ń&#x153;LYPU :[ ;VYVU[V

Store Hours: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Fri 10 amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;8 pm :H[ HTÂś WT ŕ Ž :\U HTÂś WT

Store Hours: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Fri 10 amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9 pm :H[ ! HTÂś WT ŕ Ž :\U HTÂś WT

Store Hours: Monâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;Fri 10 amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9 pm :H[ ! HTÂś WT ŕ Ž :\U HTÂś WT

TEL: 416-479-1204

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25

Hit the books | Japanese Tattoos

By M Crowson

Beauty and the (practical) beast Japanese Tattoos:

More from Brian Ashcraft

History Culture Design

Arcade Mania!

by Brian Ashcraft and Hori Benny

For overseas rreaders, a guided ttour to the ffascinating world of the Japanese o ““game centre.”

Explore the light and dark side of body art in the Land of the Rising Sun.

Author info

Brian Ashcraft is the author of Arcade Mania! and 1HWHULZL :JOVVSNPYS *VUÄKLU[PHS, and the senior contributing editor for the gamer site Kotaku. He lives in Osaka with his wife and three sons.

Hori Benny is an American expat who began a traditional tattoo apprenticeship beneath the neon lights of Osaka at Chopstick Tattoo in 2004, and went on to open his own studio, Invasion Club, in 2014.

Here’s the stereotype: a tattooed dude in Japan must be a yakuza H TLTILY VM [OL ÄUNLY ZUPWWPUN 1HWHULZL THÄH H JYPTPUHS LSLTLU[ to be avoided at all costs. Many onsen (hot springs) prohibit tattooed guests from entering [OL W\ISPJ IH[O ZWLJPÄJHSS` ILJH\ZL VM [OPZ association. If you’re a law-abiding foreigner ^P[O \UJV]LYLK [H[Z `V\ TH` ÄUK `V\YZLSM standing out. That’s because tattoos are still not widely accepted in Japan, and most natives usually keep their tattoos under wraps.

But the story behind the criminal connotations of the tattoo—or irezumi, as it’s known in Japanese—is much more complicated than the stereotype suggests, and co-authors Brian Ashcraft and Hori Benny give us a practical crash course in this fascinating history, both the dark side (the unsavoury associations) and the light side (the stunning artistry), with their book 1HWHULZL ;H[[VVZ! /PZ[VY` *\S[\YL +LZPNU Written in a friendly, witty style, the book begins with the history of Japanese tattooing, covering everything from the various aims of tattooing to the evolution of tools of the trade. Chapters 2 through 4 break down the symbolism of a 26

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Japanese Schoolgirl $POàEFOUJBM

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wide range of tattoo motifs, from kanji idioms to cherry blossoms and other nature images, YLHS HUK T`[OPJHS JYLH[\YLZ )\KKOPZ[ ÄN\YLZ and folk heroes. Chapter 5 explores the tradition of getting a full-body suit and the social constraints that come with full-body devotion.

Chapter 6 explores the art form’s contemporary innovations, including the “geek” tattoo culture of today’s manga and anime generation.

Each chapter includes plenty of photographs and fascinating informational tidbits. The book PZ HSZV WLWWLYLK ^P[O WYVÄSLZ VM [H[[VV HY[PZ[Z and clients, featuring interviews co-conducted in Japanese and translated by Ashcraft. The interviews provide a personal glimpse into the allure of tattooing, straight from the mouths of established and up-and-coming artists in Japan and abroad, and from dedicated clients who offer themselves up as living canvases. Because tattooing is such a private practice, these glimpses feel exceptionally intimate, and some are quite moving. One client, Aki, a health-care WYVMLZZPVUHS PU H OPNOS` JVUZLY]H[P]L ÄLSK ZWLU[ almost three years getting a full back tattoo of Koyasu-gami, the deity of easy child delivery, in order to protect pregnant mothers—a dedica-

Go beyond the realm of everyday girls to the world of the iconic Japanese schoolgirl craze.

tion that could cost her job, if her employer ^LYL [V ÄUK V\[ ;OL WYVÄSLZ WYV]PKL H O\THUPaPUN JVU[L_[ [OH[ enhances the artistic beauty of the tattoos. That human perspective is timely, as the future holds the potential for both dark and light for Japanese tattoo enthusiasts. Some hope that the upcoming Tokyo Olympics will lead to a more WVZP[P]L H[[P[\KL [V^HYK PYLa\TP I\[ [OL YLJLU[ crackdown on tattoo parlours suggests there’s plenty of pushback. ;OPZ ^V\SK THRL H M\UR` JVќLL [HISL IVVR MVY anyone interested in Japanese history, art and culture. And for practical reasons, it should be required reading for anyone thinking about getting a Japanese tattoo, especially anyone looking to get kanji (or Japanese characters).

The authors note that the character for “big” (大) is almost identical to the character for “dog”(犬), which means the unprepared client is “one dash away from disaster.” The authors VќLY Ä]L RL` [PWZ [V NL[[PUN H RHUQP [H[[VV HUK extensive examples of native phrases that are much more elegant than any awkward computer translation.

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27

Exploring Japanese sports

By Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;arcy Mulligan

ON THE

BALL

The next Babe Ruth is named Shohei Otani

Have you ever regretted not being able to see a player like Babe Ruth LQ WKH Ă HVK" :HOO LQ -DSDQ \RX FDQ Hokkaido is the home of not only the bestnamed sports team in the world, the NipponHam Fighters(!), but also the most exciting baseball player in the world. On any given day, if you catch a game at the Sapporo Dome, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re liable to see a young player belt a homer. That, in and of itself, isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t so odd. You may even overhear a fan nearby mention that this player is one of the best hitters in the leagueâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; and you might make note of the name on the back of his jersey: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Otani.â&#x20AC;?

What is unique is that if you were to go to another game the very next night, you might sit down in your seat, bento box in hand, and notice that the pitcher on the mound is having a great day, striking out opponents left and right. This, again, isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t so odd, since this talented pitcher is hurling the ball at 102 miles per hour. And then you see that the name on the back of his jersey is a familiar one: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Otani.â&#x20AC;? But surely this Otani, one of the best pitchers in Japan, canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be the same guy you saw hammering the ball last night? But he is.

Shohei Otani was born on July 5, 1994. He grew up playing baseball and really began to gain attention when, in the 2012 Summer Koshien (the national Japanese high school baseball tournament), a teenaged Otani wowed 28

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crowds with his 99-miles-per-hour fastball.

Major League scouts showed interest and there was a high chance that Otani would bypass the NPB entirely, but, having been promised the chance to both hit and pitch by the Hokkaido Nippon-Ham Fighters, he chose to sign with Hokkaido after being selected by them in the ďŹ rst round in 2012.

This proved to be a wise decision. Otani was named an all-star after his rookie season and has gotten better every year. By his second season he was among the top 10 pitchers in Japan as well as being one of the top 20 hitters. In 2015 he was named to the PaciďŹ c League Top 9 (being the best pitcher in the PaciďŹ c League) even though he struggled at the plate.

In 2016, however, everything clicked. Not only was he arguably the best pitcher in Japan but he was also, quite possibly, its best hitter. He led the PaciďŹ c League in slugging and OPS, as well as ERA and SO per 9 innings (achievements not even The Babe was able to pull off).

He also helped lead his team, the NipponHam Fighters, to their ďŹ rst Japan Series win in 10 years. His performance this year has led to speculation that he might be signed to a $300-million contract should he make it over to the Major Leagues (an amount of money that only one other player has ever received).

But even after the championship, the individual accolades and Major League speculation, Otaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s season wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t done. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been called on to play for Samurai Japan, the Japanese national baseball team, and in an exhibition game against the Netherlands, he actually

hit a baseball through the roof at the Tokyo Dome. This wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t in batting practice and this wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a huge pop-up, but a ball that Otani simply crushed. This is such a rare occurrence that the umpiring crew didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t actually know what to do and it took them a few minutes of conferencing to give Otani a ground rule double on a ball that would have, in any openair stadium, been a massive home run. Otani, after being told to head to second base, merely shrugged his shoulders and chuckled. He knew heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d have another homer soon enough.

Players who pull double-duty You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t often see players pitching and playing in the ďŹ eld during the same seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;Otani, who last year threw 140 innings while also taking over 380 at-bats, is a true rarity. The last player to come even close to what Otani did in the majors was Brooks Kieschnick, who pitched 43 innings while coming to the plate 63 times as a relief pitcher and utility outďŹ elder for the Brewers in 2004.

For an actual starting pitcher who was also called upon to hit, the clock has to be turned back to 1953 when Johnny Lindell threw 199 innings for the Pirates and Phillies while also coming to bat 133 times, though mostly while pitching or as a pinch hitter. To get a true Otani, one has to go back to 1919 when Babe Ruth was still with the Red Sox. He batted over 400 times and played mostly left ďŹ eld while still throwing over 100 innings.

Without a doubt, Otani is the kind of player you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see for another hundred years.

Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;arcy Mulligan has written about video games for gaming websites, sports for his blog, and cats anywhere and everywhere he can. He once spent his entire lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s savings on beer at the ball game. It was a very good pint.

Cheers man!

What’s Y#@& ???

Oh no... too drunk man~

G O Let's

llearn earn

N I H O N G O

easy JJapanese apanese

What to say at a party Parties are a great way to meet new people and engage in conversation. Here are a few sentences you can use to start conversations and participate at a party.

Intermediate Cheers!

This is always a great way to start off a conversation. Using no（の) particle after a plain verb at the end of a sentence makes an informal question. E.g.: Naniwo nonderuno?（何を飲んで るの？ What are you drinking?)

Have you gotten used to winter in Canada? カナダの冬にはもう慣れましたか？

乾杯！

Kanadano fuyuniwa mo naremashitaka?

Kanpai!

What is your occupation? 仕事は何をしてるの？

Beginner Kanpai (乾杯) is the word used when people toast.

It commemorates a celebratory occasion. Its literal meaning is “dry cup.”

Shigotowa naniwo shiteruno?

Advanced Weather is also a great way to start small talk. Noun+ ni nareru（に慣れる, get used to) is a useful word to ask questions to people who have recently come to Canada. E.g.: TTC ni naremashitaka? (TTCに慣れました か? Have you gotten used to the TTC?)

Compiled by Amber Chambers and Kozumi Miya-Woolford. Brought to you by the Toronto Japanese Language School | www.tjls.ca | @tjlsca | principal@tjls.ca

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Illustration by Reiko Ema

MARCH 2017

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with oked salmon Tapas likpesasmuce hit the spott.. parsni Th menteedbebautiful bar y a wide is comple sake sele ction.

Amanda Plyley

Staff

So fresh and so funky

Five years in Asia broade ned Amanda’s horizons—and those of her tastebuds. From eating kimchi for breakfast to grabbing a midnight snack at Beijing’s night market, she’s always open to tryin g new MVVKZ ;OLZL KH`Z `V\»SS VM[LU ÄUK her slurping ramen with her nose in a book somewhere in Toro nto.

A North York restaurant and bar is serving up a new twist on a traditional dish.

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U [OL PZSHUK VM :OPRVR\ `V\»SS ÄUK 1Hpan’s smallest prefecture: Kagawa.

Fittingly nicknamed “Udon Prefecture,” Kagawa is the country’s not-so-secret source of both stunning scenery and the best udon there is to be had. Period.

So, naturally, when MeNami owner Chae Kim decided to open an udon-inspired fusion restaurant and bar steps from up-and-coming hot spot Yonge and Finch early last year, she sent her head chef to Kagawa to receive formal training in the culinary art of freshly made Sanuki \KVU )` [OL [PTL OL YL[\YULK JLY[PÄJH[PVU PU hand, it was clear to the pair that frozen noodles just wouldn’t do—and with that, MeNami was WVPZLK [V IL ;VYVU[V»Z ÄYZ[ HUK VUS` YLZ[H\YHU[ to specialize in Sanuki udon made from scratch.

After an extensive basement renovation involv-

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MARCH 2017

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ing the installation of a complex udon-making machine, heating and cooling controls to ensure VW[PT\T `LHY YV\UK [LTWLYH[\YLZ HUK H UL^ ÄStration system to soften the water and remove harsh minerals, MeNami has been busy serving \W ULHYS` KPќLYLU[ [`WLZ VM [OL JP[`»Z MYLZOLZ[ udon. From Nagasaki udon—featuring a generous helping of squid, shrimp and mussels—to spicy pork udon with kimchi, black sesame udon with beef and a veggie lover’s udon, there’s a piping-hot dish on the menu for every palate.

Not into noodles? No problem. MeNami also VќLYZ KPZOLZ ZLY]LK VU YPJL SPRL tonkatsu (pork cutlet), tapas such as smoked salmon in parsnip sauce and an assortment of fresh salads.

The dining experience at MeNami is made that much more interesting by the décor. A mix of vintage, modern and industrial styles complemented

by rustic wood tables and under-bar lighting, the restaurant’s atmosphere is undeniably as fun and funky as it is intimate and friendly. Drop in on a Friday or Saturday night and you’re sure [V ÄUK H I\Z[SPUN JYV^K VM `V\UN OPW HUK 30-somethings slurping noodles while bartenders pour draft beer, imported sake and creative cocktails like Matcha Drunken Tea and Sailor Moon Gone Wild. Open past 2 am most nights, 4L5HTP VќLYZ 5VY[O @VYR SVJHSZ H JVZ` WSHJL [V kick back and let loose while exploring a unique HYYH` VM 1HWHULZL M\ZPVU [HWHZ HUK KYPURZ·HUK an udon experience that can’t be beat.

MeNami 5469 Yonge St., North York | 416-229-6191 www.menami.ca 67,5! 4VU¶:H[ ! HT¶ ! HT :\U ! HT¶ HT