Japanese Culture | Hot Spots | Products | Food
FREE Mar. 2015
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www.bentoboxmag.ca
Packed with delicious tidbits NAultBimEate
The comfort food
Sparkling sake? Yes, it’s a thing
: o d i a k k o H rney to the
Jou ld north wi
Made in Japan
Now in T.O.
New J-Resto in the
Distillery District
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MARCH 2015
Contents
Mar. 2015 Vol. 01 1
Food
Featured
08 Toronto’s latest hot spot
04 Japanese products
If you’re heading to Touhenboku’s muchanticipated third location with visions of all that ramen you’re about to slurp, spoiler alert: you won’t find it here...
14 The edible sea monster
Celebrate Japanese culture in your own backyard.
Page
Some styling tips for short hair!
Wintering in Japan? Time to plug in your toilet.
Travel
24 Only in Japan
18 Featured destination: Hokkaido
Got the chills? Cure them with this essential piece of Japanese tradition!
Take a trip to explore the gorgeous sights and rich flavours of Japan’s northernmost island.
30 Hit the books In postwar Japan, three women struggle to come to terms with the dark side of love.
36 Film focus
26 One-of-a-kind dining
Enjoy a film that deftly balances raw social realism with screwball farce.
Join the conversation on Facebook and Twitter
EDITOR’S NOTE
Is your spaghetti grinning back at you? Welcome to one of the most unique restaurants in Tokyo.
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twitter.com/bentoboxmag
On the cover
Nina Hoeschele
For our first issue, Yunaghi’s head chef, Tetsuya Shimizu, created a beautiful bento box that elegantly displays his talent for preparing Japanese cuisine. We thank him for all his help and kindness!
Some Japanese flair for your spring thaw Welcome to the maiden voyage of Toronto’s first English-language magazine featuring all things Japanese! We’ve filled these pages with delicious foods, travel ideas and other Japan-centric delights to bring you a splash of brightness as a long, cold winter nears its end.
Art direction: Chiyako Mukai Photography: Kazu Maruyama Assistant: Moe Tashiro
While winter in Japan is already giving way to the beauty of spring—and the colourful festivals it brings (p. 18)—here in Canada, we’re still waiting to hang up our coats for good. If you’ve had enough of the cold, keep reading! Japanese culture is overflowing with novel ways to fight it, from tables that toast your feet (p. 24) to heated toilet seats for a heated, um, seat (p. 37). And then there’s the slightly more metaphorical warmth of togetherness. Enter nabe, a traditional Japanese meal that forces you to cuddle up and collaborate with your loved ones (p. 10), warming hearts and bellies as you feast. We welcome you out of hibernation—and we hope you enjoy this first taste of Japan!
Bento Box Communication Inc.
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Meet me in Hokkaido
Culture
38 A gastronomical journey
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37 Memoir
16 The new bubbly
Choose two countries that take food and art seriously. Create fusion masterpieces. Delight all of the senses. That’s Yunaghi.
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Dining in Wonderland
34 Beauty
As you walk along the beach, what you might think is a frightening sea monster is actually a relative of Japan’s superfood.
Toast your next celebration with something other than the usual champagne by grabbing a bottle of sparkling sake, Japan’s trendiest beverage.
Page
32 Local events
10 A warm bowl of comfort Before you gather your loved ones around the table, make sure everyone knows their role in this collaborative dish.
Stubbornly delicious
This month’s featured products are all about treating yourself.
360 Bloor St. W. Suite 207, Toronto ON M5S 1X1
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Editors Nina Hoeschele, Yumi Nishio Editorial coordinator Kathleen O’Hagan Writers James Heron, Jennifer McKechnie, Kathleen O’Hagan, M Crowson, Sheena Kirkbride, Shelley Suzuki Designers Chiyako Mukai, Reiko Ema, Chieko Watanabe Web designer Hiroyuki Azuma Photographers Kazu Maruyama, Hiroyuki Azuma Production assistants Rondie Li, Stephen Choi, Moe Tashiro, Sakura Kawano Marketing administrator Emma Gao Publisher Kazu Maruyama
Phone: 416-847-6799
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bentoboxmag.ca
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Email: info@bentoboxmag.ca
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Bento Box Magazine MARCH 2015 03
What's new ? Japanese products
01 Sony
From enhancing your music collection to snacking healthy and pampering your skin— this month’s featured products are all about treating yourself.
A blast of perfect sound The new Sony Walkman NWZ-ZX1 takes music to another dimension. For anyone from the average music listener to the true audiophile, the brand new Sony Walkman is the ultimate media player for experiencing high-resolution sound. What’s high-resolution (or “Hi-Res”) audio? It’s an audio format that delivers more information and higher fidelity than your conventional MP3s. Hi-Res technology is now mainstream in Japan and gaining popularity across Asia. And the new Walkman NWZ-ZX1 is set to bring Canadians into the loop. With 128 GB of storage, the NWZZX1 holds a whopping number of up to 36,000 songs, and it plays music with unprecedented depth and richness. High notes that a regular
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The built-in amplifier bump?! Nothing about this audio device is standard, including its shape. The slight bulge on the back is there to isolate some top-notch audio components so that electrical interference can’t affect the sound, a problem you might be familiar with if you’ve ever listened to music on your smartphone.
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MP3 player would cut are delivered truthfully in Hi-Res, giving you sound quality that makes it hard to go back to anything else—just like it’s hard to appreciate microwaved pizzas after you’ve had them fresh and woodfired. Or think about hearing music while you walk in a park; you can immediately tell whether it’s a live band or a CD playing over speakers. Live music has that extra depth and richness, which is what the NWZ-ZX1 was designed to emulate. The NWZ-ZX1 creates sound that lets you truly appreciate the nuances and subtleties of your music collection. You can visit the Sony Centre for the Performing Arts to experience it yourself! Price: $749.99
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Hi-Res: Closely replicates the original sound quality.
MP3: Loses the highest-frequency components of audio signals.
Keep your eye out for other Sony products with Hi-Res audio capabilities, such as headphones and wireless speakers, that are coming out soon. Visit their website for more information. Website: www.store.sony.ca
02 Muji
Muji is hitting the Canadian market with its high-quality skin care products.
Sensitive Skin This product line is perfect for delicate skin. Each moisturizing lotion or toner is made up of a variety of all-natural ingredients, perfume-free and paraben-free. Price: $10.00 each
Muji is the Japanese “everything brand” and offers all types of goods, from bed frames and tea leaves to beauty products. Known for their simplistic designs and reliable quality, they are a company loved by all ages and income brackets. And, despite being available for reasonable prices, the quality of their products is uncompromised. Muji’s skin care line is consistent with the company’s high-quality philosophy and sticks
to the use of the best materials out there. Their water-based beauty products, such as their toners and moisturizers, are mixed with purified water from the caves in northeastern Japan—water which is said to benefit from the decades-long process of filtering through mineral-rich rocks. If you are looking for a natural and effective option for keeping your skin hydrated, you’ve found it. Website: www.muji.com/ca/
Cut Cotton—Layered Muji’s four-layer cotton pads are great for anything from toner and moisturizer to nail polish remover. Unbleached, soft and sturdy, they can even be reused as face packs. Price: $4.00
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ITO EN
Kasugai
Zero calories and lots of tastiness
Some milk with your tea?
You may have seen the traditional green tea that’s sold by Japan’s number-one tea brand, but now Oi Ocha is introducing a new flavour to the Canadian market. Comprising 16.9 fluid ounces of rich nuttiness with a slight aroma of mesquite, Hojicha is made by roasting whole green tea leaves at a high temperature for a short time. Pure tea with no sweeteners or additives, this low-caffeine drink is a healthy and refreshing alternative to sugar-laden beverages.
This matcha green tea milk candy combines the best of two worlds—renowned green-tea powder from the peaceful town of Nishio in Aichi Prefecture, and sweet cream from the dairy land of Hokkaido. These two exceptional ingredients are balanced perfectly to create a rich candy with complex flavours that are deliciously unique.
Website: www.itoen.com
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Ninja H2
Kawasaki’s newest Ninja sport bike packs the incredible power of a closed-course motorcycle into a sleek, street-going machine.
Meet Kawasaki’s latest Ninja. With innovative engineering that begets incredible speed and control, this sport bike truly embodies the idea of a swift Japanese warrior.
Supercharged power unit
Super-speed impeller
Based on the closed-course-only Ninja H2R, the Ninja H2 packs tremendous acceleration power into a lightweight frame that meets the noise and emission standards of a street-going bike. The secret? The engine’s supercharger, designed in-house with help from divisions across Kawasaki, including its aerospace engineers. Part of a long line of high-performing Kawasaki Ninja models, the Ninja H2’s name also pays homage to the Kawasaki H2 Mach IV. First introduced in the 1970s, the Mach IV’s intense acceleration changed the world’s idea of what motorcycles could do. And the Ninja H2 is set to continue that legacy. More info: www.kawasaki.ca I Price: $27,500
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This power unit forms the core of the Ninja H2. And while the H2 is, in fact, a street-legal bike, it has the heart of a racer—and shares this component with the Ninja H2R, a closed-course bike that’s too powerful for the streets. What’s more, aside from some minor alterations, the Ninja H2’s supercharged 200-horsepower engine is essentially identical to the over 300-hp engine that powers the H2R, giving riders an unprecedented amount of acceleration.
The impeller is an integral part of the Ninja H2’s centrifugal compressor. It was designed by the same specialists at Kawasaki who manufacture jet engines— so you can be sure that this is one serious piece of machinery. At maximum engine speed, the impeller reaches 130,000 rpm, thanks to the planetary gear train, which itself was designed by the company’s aerospace division. The carefully etched blades direct airflow, while the impeller’s forged aluminum construction guarantees precision and durability.
Supercharging the sport bike experience In an elegant package
Man-machine interface
Legacy of innovation
While the Ninja H2 is an incredibly powerful machine, its capabilities are packed into a relatively lightweight body. The trellis frame construction was specifically designed to ensure good handling and stability while travelling at the high speeds this sport bike is capable of achieving. Built to have a perfect balance of stiffness and flexibility, the frame is another asset that the Ninja H2 shares with the closed-course H2R. In other words, this is one bike that will maintain control under pressure.
The Ninja H2’s controls mimic that of a fighter jet, meaning anyone who hops on will be well prepared for the flight to come. Its ergonomic interface was designed for ultimate comfort, but it’s also high-tech and efficient: the controls are compact and all display options are available right at the rider’s fingertips. The H2’s display combines an LCD screen with analoguestyle visuals—a nod to the Ninja line’s long history, integrated perfectly with the innovative technology that drives this bike.
This Kawasaki symbol dates back to the 1870s. Called the “River Mark,” it’s based on a stylized version of the Japanese character for “river,” which is also the first character in the name Kawasaki. The symbol has come to represent the way that the companies in the Kawasaki Group share technological innovations with one another. Drawing on expertise from Kawasaki’s aerospace, engine and precision machinery companies— to name just a few—the Ninja H2 is a worthy bearer of this honourable emblem. Bento Box Magazine MARCH 2015 07
Toronto’s latest hot spot
By Kathleen O’Hagan Restaurant
S tubbornly delicious
Now open
The name Touhenboku, or stubborn, is a testament to uncompromising taste. And while Boku reinvents the Touhenboku menu, it’s just as committed to flavour as its predecessors.
Melts in your mouth The aburi sushi is definitely Boku’s winning dish. The salmon envelops your tongue in its buttery softness, the saba bites back with its green onion and ginger toppings, and the ebi is as soft as a velvet kiss. And the hamachi? It practically melts in your mouth.
Flavour burst The organic vegetable mango maki is bursting with flavour … and crunch! The secret? The inner roll is not only lined with seaweed, but also layered with crisp leaves of lettuce.
Bento Box Magazine MARCH 2015 08 BentoBox www.bentoboxmag.ca
Hungry for more? Let’s dig in!
Soba surprise Noodle N dl llovers will ill d delight li h in the soba surprise hiding under this mountain of fresh veggies. The yuzuinfused dressing makes the soba salad a citrusy hit!
If you’re heading to Touhenboku’s muchanticipated third location with visions of all that ramen you’re about to slurp, spoiler alert: you won’t find any here. Considering the other two Touhenboku restaurants specialize in this hearty noodle soup, you might be surprised. Disappointed, even. Don’t be. Boku might be one of the best Japanese restaurants you visit in 2015. Owner Zuimei Okuyama has good reason for leaving ramen off the menu at his latest eatery. He’s fulfilling a lifelong dream: opening a traditional Japanese restaurant. But a more traditional menu is not the only thing that sets Boku apart from its sister locations. Upon entering the restaurant, patrons are greeted by a life-size
samurai warrior (a costume Zuimei proudly donned this past Halloween) and a kimonoclad hostess (typically on weekends or special occasions). Once seated, your eyes will drink in the deep walnut browns of the custom-made tables and the earthy shades of traditional servingware in all shapes and sizes — not to be outdone by the miniature Japanese garden in the centre of the restaurant. Japanese restaurant or oasis? You decide. Sneak a peek behind the bar and you’ll find a wall lined with bottles of sake so fine they aren’t available at the LCBO. (The most expensive bottle goes for $300.) Fish so fresh, it melts in your mouth. Food so authentic, you’ll let yourself believe you’re in Japan. By night’s end you’ll be saying, “Ramen? What’s that?”
Divinely delicious Mille-crepes is rich in flavour without being overly sweet. It will wake up all 10 mille (thousand) of your tastebuds.
Never too full for dessert
A gift for your tastebuds
Find your betsubara (or second stomach) and prepare to be wowed by each bite.
Open your kawaii (cute) ceramic gift box and find a slice of heaven waiting for you inside.
Meet Zuimei Okuyama
Tea lovers, rejoice! Not only does Boku offer a wide selection of Japanese ocha (tea), but this fancy timer means never having to worry about watery tea again. Whether your tea of choice happens to be herbal, black or green, you’ll know it’s time to start sipping as soon as the sands in your hourglass reach the bottom.
Zuimei moved to Toronto over a decade ago to study English. But what kept him here was love. So you might not be surprised to learn that love had a little something to do with the decision behind opening a third restaurant in the Distillery District. The laneway outside of his new restaurant is where Zuimei and his special someone got married years ago!
Boku Restaurant TEL: 416-368-8686 42 Gristmill Lane, The Distillery District, Toronto OPEN HOURS (winter): Tues–Sun 11:30 am–3 pm, xÊ« q \ÎäÊ« >ÃÌÊ À`iÀÊ Ê« ®ÊUÊ ÊV Ãi`
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MARCH MARC ARC C H 20 2015 15 15
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By Sheena Kirkbride
Before you gather your loved ones around the table, make sure everyone knows their role in this collaborative dish.
W
hile a nip in the early spring air might leave us Westerners hankering for a hearty bowl of soup, the Japanese are more likely to crave a hot, steamy pot of nabe. In fact, a survey in 2013 found that over 60 per cent of Japanese people eat nabe at least once a week through the coldest months. Traditionally made up of seasonal veggies, a protein and flavourful stock, nabe is cooked in a large pot on a portable stove set on the centre of the dining table for the whole family to huddle around and share. In addition to the classic types
of nabe — which include dishes you might find familiar, such as sukiyaki and shabu shabu — there are endless varieties across the different regions of Japan, and they are cial foods largely influenced by the specialty in each area. Individual households might even have their own unique recipes. But whatever the ingredients may be, the experience of sharing a pot full of deliciouss food made by the joint effortt of the people you love is what forms the foundation of this collective and dynamic dish.
Chanko Nabe The name means “sumo-style,” and it’s no wonder—this miso-based nabe is a feast fit for a sumo wrestler. Served with sliced pork, minced chicken, chicken leg, tofu and veggies galore, don’t be surprised if your pot runneth over. Finished feasting? Throw your leftover rice into the broth, crack an egg into it and enjoy a “second course” of zosui. We promise, you’ll want to savour this sumo-licious broth a second time.
Ematei 30 St. Patrick St., Toronto | 416-340-0472 Open: Mon–Fri 11:45 am–2:30 pm, 5:30 pm q£ä\ÎäÊ« ÊUÊ->ÌÊx\ÎäÊ« q£ä\ÎäÊ« ÊUÊ-Õ Êx\ÎäÊ« q£äÊ« Bento Box Magazine MARCH 2015 11
: A warm bowl of communaal comfort Healthy Tomatoes Hot Pot This wintertime nabe gets its tangy flavour from a non-traditional tomato broth that finds some nabe lovers comparing it to their grandmother’s minestrone. Served with a selection of veggies and a whole lot of chicken (thigh, breast and mince), it’s definitely a soup to warm the soul. Interested? Make sure to call at least three days in advance to reserve a hot pot for you and up to four friends.
Ryoji 690 College St., Toronto | 416-533-8083 ryojitoronto.com "«i \Ê q/ ÕÀÃÊxÊ« q£ÓÊ> ÊUÊ À ÊxÊ« qÓÊ> Ê ->ÌÊ££\ÎäÊ> qÓÊ> ÊUÊ-Õ Ê££\ÎäÊ> q£ä\ÎäÊ«
Homestyle Tsukune Hot Pot This homestyle nabe is rich in flavour—and fun! Served with a platter of vegetables and a portion of tsukune (minced chicken meat), you’ll feel right at home making your own meatballs. Once they’re ready, throw them into the pot and watch them sizzle. And, as mom would say, don’t forget your veggies! Enjoy the traditional flavours of a savoury broth mixed with a hint of sweetness. Serves two people.
Don Don Izakaya 130 Dundas St. W., Toronto | 416-492-5292 dondonizakaya.com "«i \Ê q/ ÕÀÃÊ££\ÎäÊ> q£ÓÊ> ÊUÊ À Ê££\ÎäÊ> q£Ê> ÊUÊ->ÌÊxÊ« q£Ê> ÊUÊ-Õ ÊxÊ« q£ÓÊ>
N
abe is the quintessential winter comfort food in Japan and comes in a multitude of regional forms. For example, the Hokkaido region boasts a version of nabe made with a base of miso and the area’s locally famous salmon. Sumo wrestlers eat a special type of nabe all year round as their staple food, known as chanko nabe. This protein-rich nabe is loaded with chicken, fish and tofu, and the wrestlers eat it in massive quantities so they can gain the weight they need while getting enough nutrients. Unlike most dishes that are served after the cooking is completed, nabe is an ever-evolving and dynamic dish that changes constantly: ingre-
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dients are added and taken out as people eat. One element that makes it such a communal dish is that it often requires the attention and cooperation of more than one person in the group. Japanese culture is known to be fraught with unspoken rules and hierarchies, and nabe eating is no exception. In addition to the main role of adding ingredients as they get low and removing overcooked ingredients, somebody needs to constantly skim off meat and vegetable grease with a mesh strainer to keep the soup clear. Some clever words exist to describe the roles of eating nabe, such as nabe bugyo or “nabe magistrate” for the person who controls the flow of ingredients into and out of the pot. (The word bugyo comes from the Edo period and connotes
a bossy and controlling person.) The aku daikan or “governor of scum” is in charge of skimming the grease. Finally, machibugyo and machimusume are the male and female labels for those who do not participate in the cooking but just wait for the food to be ready. (These words refer to a male “governor” and a female “commoner” during the samurai era, but they’re also a play on the word machi, meaning “wait.”) Whatever role one takes, it is the community spirit of eating around a steaming pot of nabe that makes it the perfect meal for a fun and social gathering.
Hot Pot with Noodle and Seafood This noodle-y nabe is uniquely flavoured by the same type of broth you’d find at the bottom of your bowl of udon! Served with a variety of veggies, some silky tofu, udon noodles and a healthy portion of seafood, you’ll be saying hello to shrimp (with their heads still on), oysters, clams, squid and the catch of the day (usually salmon or halibut). No artificial flavours!
Bushi Udon Kappo 1404 Yonge St., Toronto | 416-323-9988 bushiudon.com Open: Tues–Thurs 11:30 am–2:30 pm, 5 pm–10 pm Fri–Sat 11:30 am–2:30 pm, 5 pm–10:30 pm -Õ Ê££\ÎäÊ> qÓ\ÎäÊ« ]ÊxÊ« q Ê« ÊUÊ ÊV Ãi`
Tan Tan Hot Pot This subtly spicy nabe was born from Kingyo’s original tantan recipe. Served with thinly sliced pork, veggies and a chunk of tantan miso paste, it’s so rich you’ll want to share the wealth with friends! Once finished, avoid nabe withdrawal by drinking the broth (we’re not kidding!) or throw some noodles in the pot for Round 2. This selectively available dish is back on the menu this month. Get it while you can!
Kingyo Toronto 51B Winchester St., Toronto | 647-748-2121 kingyotoronto.ca Open: Sun–Thurs 11:30 am–3 pm, 5:30 pm–11:30 pm Fri–Sat 11:30 am–3 pm, 5:30 pm–12 am
Good to the last bite Everybody takes from the pot in the middle of the table and eats from their own serving plate. But the most important thing to know about eating nabe is that you shouldn’t forget to leave enough room for the shime (or “finish”). The broth is considered one of the best parts of the nabe, rich and packed with the flavours of all the foods stewed in the pot. As a culture that doesn’t like to waste things, the Japanese came up with a way to consume every last bite by adding rice or noodles at the very end of the meal to soak up all of the flavours from the rich broth. To a Japanese person, nabe is not a complete meal without the shime.
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Flavour of the month 母なる大海からの贈り物。 美味しくてヘルシーな 昆布に注目。
By Sheena Kirkbride Ingredient A little
taste of
kombu Kombu is Japan’s quietly omnipresent superfood and may be the key to a healthy population.
November 15
is National Kombu Day, coinciding with the year’s harvested kombu entering the market. Kombu is a fantastic beauty food that boosts your metabolism, combats aging and nourishes the skin.
There are seven different kombu species that you will typically find on your
昆布
【こんぶ】
The edible sea monster From flotsam to superfood! This ingredient might ruin your swim, but it will do wonders for your diet. As you walk along the beach, you might stumble across a mass of big, green, tangled-up seaweed that resembles a frightening sea monster, but what you’re really passing up is a relative of Japan’s best-kept secret. Known as the vegetable of the sea, kombu (edible sea kelp) is a quintessential Japanese pantry ingredient with extraordinary health benefits. It has been a part of the country’s cuisine for so long that it is literally as old as history—today, its exact origins are unknown. Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost prefecture, is where the earliest kombu consumption has been recorded (as far back as 500 BC), and it is still the source of over 95 per cent of the nation’s kombu. When trading increased between Hokkaido and the rest of Japan around AD 1200, kombu started appearing on plates in all regions of the country. In fact, it became such an important commodity that a “kombu road” was established as a sea trade route. Kombu’s ease and quickness of cultivation along with its nutrition density make it one of the most efficient foods in the natural world. The ultimate superfood, kombu and other sea vegetables are a great source of protein and are 14 Bento Box Magazine
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packed with vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. In fact, they are higher in vitamins and minerals per ounce than any other food group. The list of health benefits goes on for these plants: they can reduce cholesterol and detoxify radioactive and metallic elements from the body, and they’re effective against bacteria that have a resistance to penicillin. Sea vegetables are also super rich in calcium as well as in iodine, a key element for growth and development. Because of its high iodine content, however, people with hyperthyroidism should avoid eating kombu. You may have heard of kombucha, the fermented black tea that has recently gained popularity in the West for its health benefits. Although the kombucha you find in Japan is made from actual kombu, what we call “kombucha” in the West is a misnomer and actually has nothing to do with sea kelp. If you want to find kombu in Canada, skip the tea and look for the actual product. Kombu is usually cooked in its dry or powdered form, and it can be found in Japanese and East Asian markets—or increasingly at health food stores. Because of its versatility, kombu can be used in a variety of recipes, but one of its most
Ramen masters are very particular about the species of kombu they use in their soup stock. Over 90 per cent of Japan’s kombu is cultivated in Hokkaido, yet the prefecture has one of the country’s lowest consumption rates. Okinawa prefecture has the highest kombu consumption on Earth—and the oldest residents! Kombu is a popular healthy snack for kids in Japan.
Limiting kombu consumption is just as important as including it, as its high iodine content can lead to thyroid problems.
Photo by Tomo.Yun http://www.yunphoto.net
Kombu
plate—along with countless others that aren’t usually consumed.
basic uses is in soups and stocks (dashi). Surprisingly mild and un-fishy in taste, kombu works with virtually any kind of dish and actually boosts other flavours while also adding tons of minerals, nutrients and umami. If you’re using dried kombu, all you do is add a strip or two to your pot and let it simmer with the other ingredients until the kombu is soft and cooked. At that point, you can cut your kombu strips into little pieces and add them back into the soup, or save them for later use—like jazzing up a salad.
[PR] Ryoji Ramen & Izakaya
Vol.1
Enjoy the food and drink of Japan’s subtropical island
Side menu
Goya Champru A traditional Okinawa dish with a contemporary flare, sautéed Japanese bitter melon with salted pork belly and atsuage, or deep-fried tofu, pan-fried with egg and covered with dashi ankake foam, a sticky yet light dashi foam.
Tastes of Okinawa Okinawa is the southernmost prefecture of Japan. Historically known as the Ryukyu Kingdom archipelago, it has developed slightly different culture from mainland Japan through its history. As the only Okinawan-style izakaya in Toronto, Ryoji offers traditional and inventive cuisines and ramens that reflect the unique culture of these islands. Though the restaurant is new here, it is a branch of Ryoji Inc., a very popular izakaya restaurant chain in Okinawa, Japan. Ryoji Inc. was founded in 1988 by chef and owner Ryoji Kinjo, and operates nearly a dozen locations in the prefecture.
The first Ryoji group restaurant opening outside of Japan, this eatery in Little Italy is their long-awaited dream of going international finally come true.
Tonkotsu original ramen Since its opening in January 2013, Ryoji has become one of the go-to restaurants for food lovers in Toronto. Especially for ramen enthusiasts. Ramen is Japan’s comfort food and like all good comfort food the secret is really care and time. Ryoji offers six ramens: Tonkotsu, Spicy Miso, Garlic Oil, Shio, Shoyu and Vegetable. All broth and noodles are prepared fresh daily by experienced ramen master Kazuhisa Iwasaki and vary in richness and texture to complement each
style. Ryoji’s “ Tonkotsu” (pork-bone) ramen is prepared in the Hakata style with a slow simmered pork bone and vegetable broth. By slowly simmering the ingredients, the resulting broth is creamy and white in colour, with a rich texture. Topped with chashu (marinated braised pork belly), bean sprouts, scallions, kikurage mushrooms and soft-boiled egg, this bowl of Tonkotsu ramen will always make you feel full and satisfied. After a perfect bowl of ramen, grab a carefully handcrafted sake or shochu-based cocktail in a lounge area. Surrounded by Okinawan-style decor and clubby beats, you can enjoy real Okinawa-style night in Toronto!
Ryoji Ramen & Izakaya 690 College St., Toronto | TEL . 416-533-8083
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Bento Box Magazine MARCH 2015 15
Drink up!
By Sheena Kirkbride Sake
Fizz facts アルコール度５％。女性にも飲みやすい 新感覚のスパークリング日本酒。
Mio 澪
【みお】
The new bubbly This sweet, delicate refreshment is the beverage of choice for young women and racecar drivers across Japan.
Although sparkling sake has been around for several decades, it has only recently taken the spotlight in Japan’s food and drink scene. Just like champagne, sparkling sake is created by a second alcoholic fermentation of the rice wine in the bottle or by injections of carbon dioxide. Referred to in Japanese as happo-shu, it typically has about a third of the alcohol content of traditional sake and comes in both unfiltered and filtered forms.
One of the most popular names in sparkling sake is Mio, created by Japan’s legendary sake producer, Takara. Mio is the Japanese word to describe the wake that trails behind a moving boat, and the name inspires the image of dynamic and lively bubbles riding a gentle wave. The secondary meaning behind Mio: it’s the Italian word for my. Applied to the bottle, it’s meant to evoke personal ownership of the sake.
The popularity of sparkling sake has skyrocketed thanks to successful marketing targeted towards young women. Its labels are often pastel-coloured and beautifully designed, and the drink’s delicate flavours are an appealing alternative for those who aren’t fans of the strong flavours found in traditional sake. But while it’s the signature drink for a girl’s night out, sparkling sake has also come to carry a distinctly male appeal as the celebratory beverage for the Formula 1 Japanese Grand Prix. At all other venues, the F-1 races’ top finishers are awarded a bottle of champagne to victoriously spray all over the place, but in Japan, sparkling sake is the weapon of choice.
Although Mio has a crispness and fruitiness that resembles some sweet champagnes, it has a distinct rice wine flavour that makes it unique. It also has an alcohol content of only 5 per cent, so you can enjoy it without fear of getting too drunk and crazy at a company party. A perfect blend of mellow and sweet, Mio is best served chilled and is nice for some relaxed sipping as an aperitif. Or, because of its sweet and fruity aroma, Mio also goes well with hors d’oeuvres such as artisan cheeses and olives, and with sweet chocolates or tart fruits, such as strawberries. Luckily for us, we don’t have to be in Japan to get this drink—just hop over to the LCBO.
T
oast your next celebration with something other than the usual champagne by grabbing a bottle of Japan’s trendiest beverage—bubbleinfused rice wine, or sparkling sake.
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While regular sake comes attached to a long history of tradition and etiquette, the sparkling newcomer is an exception to a lot of these rules. For example, there are specific vessels and cups for drinking sake, but sparkling sake can be poured into whatever cup, mug or glass you feel like.
Pouring and refilling the tiny sake cups of your table companions—but not your own—is a fundamental rule for sake drinking. But when it comes to sparkling sake, you’re free to fill and refill your own glass at your will.
Traditional sake is sometimes heated and drunk warm, but you definitely don’t want to heat up your sparkling sake if you want to keep that refreshing fizz!
Against the traditional offerings of French champagne and Italian spumante, sparkling sake is a worthy and strong contender. This bubbly, sweet and delicious drink appeals to a wide range of tastes and is an exciting choice for the sake lover or a terrific introductory drink for the sake beginner.
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Featured destination
By M Crowson Travel
見て、遊んで、食べる。楽しみ方イロイロ、 一度は行きたい北の大地。
Hokkaido
Journey to the wild north
A great spot to get a view of the city, Sapporo TV Tower stands 150 m tall in ǰdori Park.
Take a trip to explore the gorgeous sights and rich flavours of Japan’s northernmost island.
Stop and smell the lilacs! After a long winter, tourists enjoy a spring-like stroll down Sapporo’s main streets.
© City of Sapporo
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A haven for travellers
©JNTO
Hokkaido 【北海道】
© City of Sapporo
o Mis en ram ©Hokkaido Tourism Organization/© JNTO
S
urrounded by the Japan Sea, the Okhotsk and the Pacific, Hokkaido is a haven for travellers all year round— but it truly blooms in spring, when the air begins to thaw and the trees begin to bud. Japan’s largest prefecture, Hokkaido offers a brisk escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, boasting the spectacular natural beauty of rolling hills, sprawling parks and deep, still lakes. Travellers from around the world come here to go hiking, horseback riding and even river rafting. After a day full of activities, visitors unwind by soaking in the waters of one of the many famous hot springs, or enjoying seasonal dishes and finely crafted sake in the comfort of a ryokan, or traditional Japanese-style inn. The crisp air and ocean currents bring a bounty of seafood, including sea urchin, squid, salmon roe and crab. There are four kinds of crab to be found, each with a distinct flavour: hanasaki, hairy, snow and king. The king crab is especially famous in Hokkaido. Visitors come from near and far to savour its sweet, ample meat, fresh from the icy waters.
And what better way to enjoy the ocean’s bounty than after a rejuvenating soak in the steaming waters of an onsen, or hot spring? The onsen is an iconic Japanese symbol, and Hokkaido is graced with several famous for their healing properties and breathtaking views. After your dip, enjoy a gourmet meal while cozied up in a nearby ryokan. Travellers in search of a more down-home culinary experience can enjoy a big, steaming bowl of Sapporo ramen, often in an unassuming restaurant tucked into a narrow alleyway. But despite the humble setting, what you’ll be offered is nothing like your typical North American “top ramen.” Named after Hokkaido’s capital city, Sapporo ramen is a rich, red miso–based soup full of handmade noodles, thick pork slices, vegetables such as corn and bean sprouts, and a dollop of butter to warm the belly. Another signature dish is the Genghis Khan. This mutton dish is grilled on a convex skillet made
to look like a helmet, upon which—according to legend—ancient Mongolian warriors cooked their meat. A giant bowl pairs perfectly with an ice-cold pint of Sapporo Beer. The first batch of the world-famous beer was brewed in 1876, when Sapporo was still a frontier town. Visitors can now enjoy both the Genghis Khan and a pint of lager right after a visit to the Sapporo Beer Museum, located just 20 minutes from the JR Sapporo Station. Hokkaido has several famous festivals, but one of the most stunning is the Sapporo Lilac Festival, an event that originally began in 1959 as a music festival. Held in late May, the festival still features live music, but it is now focused on the celebration and enjoyment of 400 lilac trees that bloom in ͺdori Park, and lilac seeds are given out on the first day of events. Visitors can admire the brilliant purple blossoms while snacking on an international array of foods Bento Box Magazine MARCH 2015 19
Exploring Sapporo
ă€?ゆるă‚ăƒŁăƒŠă€‘ Meet Jin-kun, Hokkaido’s grilled mutton mascot. He’s so cute you may just want to eat him!
ŠYasufumi Nishi/ŠJNTO
from nearby food stands. The festival also features craft workshops, outdoor tea ceremonies and a locally sourced wine garden. Travellers arriving by plane usually y into Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport, though international travellers should note that it’s limited to ights from select Asian cities. Luckily, Chitose is just a 90-minute ight from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, and two hours from Osaka’s Kansai International Airport. Adventurous travellers with time on their hands can catch a 16-hour overnight train from Tokyo to Sapporo through the Seikan Tunnel, one of the world’s longest undersea rail tunnels. Choose from one of two trains: the original Hokutosei limited express or the newer Cassiopeia, a luxury line with all-private sleeping berths.
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ŠJTA/ ŠJNTO
, & ?
Ç°dori Park runs through the heart of Sapporo
Š City of Sapporo
Built in 1878, the Sapporo Clock Tower is a quaint, Western-style structure reminiscent of a time long past.
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ŠYasufumi Nishi/ŠJNTO
Travellers enjoy shopping, dining and entertainment at a plaza in the New Chitose Airport.
ŠHokkaido Tourism Organization/Š JNTO
ŠY.Shimizu/ŠJNTO
Filled with bars, clubs and restaurants, there’s more than enough nightlife to keep tourists busy in the Susukino district!
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Hokkaido’s eats and treats
©JNTO
Soup curry B級グルメ
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur.
©Hokkaido Tourism Organization/© JNTO
鍋もの Hot pot on a cold day
When the temperatures drop, the Japanese love to chow down on a hot pot of nabe. No wonder Japan’s northernmost prefecture is famed for two of these soul-warming soups. The delectable kani nabe (above) features crab meat so tender you’ll go head over claw for it, while the ishikari nabe (left) is overflowing with fresh cuts of salmon swimming in a hearty miso broth.
Rich, silky and spiced to order
©Hokkaido Tourism Organization/© JNTO
Sapporo is also the home of soup curry, a rich, silky dish that is spiced to order. Curry is one of Japan’s most popular dishes—according to some estimates, the average Japanese citizen enjoys curry 84 times a year!—and people flock to Sapporo every year to savour the city’s unique take on the curry craze. One popular stop is Garaku, a Sapporo-based soup curry restaurant with three locations. Cold-weary connoisseurs pop in after a day of shopping to enjoy one of the many tasty options, including the baked cheese and bacon soup curry, or the brilliantly coloured and freshly picked 15-veggie soup curry.
おみやげ Souvenirs Thanks to Hokkaido’s thriving dairy industry, travellers can enjoy delicious, carefully made milk, cheeses and desserts. Dairy-based souvenirs are the perfect gift to take home to family members, including shiroi koibito, the “White Lovers” cookie, a tiny, French-style treat baked around white chocolate. There’s also a famous array of Royce’ chocolates— creamy, pure milk chocolate squares that come in a variety of flavours. Because Hokkaido is also famous for the pricey Yubari melon, melon-flavoured cakes, corn sticks and Kit Kats are popular gift items. They can be found anywhere from the local convenience store to duty-free shops.
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Shiroi koibito
Royce' chocolate
Shiroi Koibito Park in Hokkaido is home to a delicious sweets factory! The trademark treat features their original-recipe white chocolate sandwiched by cookies so light and crisp they’ll melt in your mouth.
Hokkaido’s cool climate helps produce some of the world’s finest chocolate! While in Sapporo, why not stop in at the Royce’ company shops to buy a souvenir for chocolate lovers back home?
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Cultural curiosity
By M Crowson Only in Japan
Snuggle up around the kotatsu You’ll never suffer cold feet again, thanks to this essential piece of Japanese tradition. 日本の冬に欠かせないモノ。それはこたつとミカンでしょ。
R
eady to spend your evenings curled up by a warm, cosy … table?
It’s called the kotatsu (こたつ), and it’s one of Japan’s most brilliant inventions: a heated table covered with a specially made blanket, or kotatsu futon (炬燵布団), that keeps your body warm throughout chilly days and nights. Traditional Japanese seating is on a tatami floor, so most kotatsu tables are only 36 centimetres high, and paired with floor cushions instead of chairs. They’re easy to use: just plug in the kotatsu’s electric heater (attached to the underside of the frame), spread out the futon and slip inside. The futon traps heat around your legs and feet, quickly giving you a warm, snug seat—which is vital, since you won’t find central heating in Japanese households. But, you might ask, how can I use the table if it’s covered in blankets? Worry not! The kotatsu frame and tabletop are separate pieces, so the futon is draped under the tabletop, leaving plenty of room to read magazines, drink tea or enjoy a 24 Bento Box Magazine
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full family meal. Even your household pets will love snuggling up under the kotatsu. This little heated table is so cosy that some people spend all winter curled up beneath it, a phenomenon called kotatsumuri—a slang term that plays on the Japanese word for “snail”: katatsumuri. There are actually two styles of kotatsu. The second places the table over a 100-centimetre gap in the floor—a style that was popular during the 17th century, before the tables were electric! Households today tend to use the former style of kotatsu because they are affordable and can be placed in any sort of home, from a traditional farmhouse to a studio apartment. The modern kotatsu is a classic Japanese staple: no winter would be complete without a group of loved ones gathered around the kotatsu to enjoy nabe, a savoury hot-pot dish cooked right at the table—or to eat juicy, palmsized mikan (also known as unshiu or satsuma oranges). The kotatsu can also be easily stored or converted to an ordinary table once spring arrives, making it a unique manifestation of Japanese seasonal awareness and economical use of space.
The kotatsu has a long history—it’s been curing cold feet for almost seven centuries. Prior to the Second World War, kotatsu were heated with a charcoal brazier, and the aroma was considered part of its charm. In fact, Chigetsu (1634–1718), a well-known haiku poetess, wrote a poem commemorating the passing seasons by mixing the classic early spring scent of plum blossoms with the simple winter comfort of the kotatsu: oh so faintly/ the smell of charcoal too—/ spring kotatsu. ほのぼのと炭もにおふや春炬燵 honobono to/ sumi mo niou ya/ harugotatsu Here is another kotatsu poem from one of Japan’s most famous haiku poets, Kobayashi Issa (1763– 1827), paying tribute to the kotatsu’s romantic side: squeezing in/ beside the one I love—/ kotatsu. 思ふ人の側に割込む炬燵哉 omou hito no/ soba ni warikomu/ kotatsu kana
Make sure you know the DOs and DON’Ts of kotatsu use
THE ETIQUETTE OF KOTATSU Readers, if you ever have a chance, try out the kotatsu and join a centuries-old Japanese tradition. To help you on your cultural journey, here are some useful tips.
DO eat mikan while using the kotatsu
DO NOT wear shoes in the kotatsu!
Most Japanese houses have a no-shoe policy, and outdoor shoes are strictly forbidden in any tatami room. You might get deported for this unforgivable offense.
Cool and sweet, mikan are seedless and easy to peel. Get your daily dose of vitamin C while you warm your toes.
Eat more Don’t beest so mod
Thank you for generoysoituyr !
DO NOT invite too many friends inside
Things might get a little too steamy if your kotatsu party is overcrowded. Like Issa, you might have to squeeze in tight beside your secret crush.
Illustrations by Reiko Ema
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One-of-a-kind dining
By Jennifer McKechnie Restaurant in Tokyo
絵本の扉を開けるとそこは、 アリスが迷い込んだ不思議な世界。
Epicurean adventures in Wonderland
Welc om resta e to our urant
Is that your spaghetti grinning back at you? Welcome to one of the most unique restaurants in Tokyo. Pedestrians have to be careful when walking in the Shinjuku district of Tokyo. A misstep may have you falling down a rabbit hole and into the world of Wonderland.* The “Alice in Fantasy Book” Restaurant offers up that very possibility to the ambitious diner looking to make mealtime into an eccentric affair. The popular theme restaurant greets guests with an all-out Wonderland vibe from the moment they walk through the giant, book-shaped door and into Alice’s world. Once inside, guests are greeted by life-sized Alices—with staff accessorized in her famous blue dress—as well as an assortment of other characters from the Lewis Carroll novels. And the fun doesn’t stop there. The lighting and 26 Bento Box Magazine
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décor are fit for a Queen of Hearts, with intricate chandeliers and wall coverings, checkered floors ready for a giant game of chess, rooms available for private dining and menus that resemble pop-up works of art. Whether there for lunch or dinner, food and drink at Alice’s are certainly unique. Dine on a plate of pasta that stares back at you through the eyes of the Cheshire Cat, or take a bite out of the Caterpillar avocado roll while sipping on the Tweedle Dum Tweedle Dee cocktail (it’s kid-friendly!). For the more mature crowd, take some time to explore Wonderland by way of its creative drink menu. Enjoy the scenery over the “Forever Alice” or other themed cock-
What tastes await you down the rabbit hole?
Curiouser and curiouser… If you’re planning on eating at any of the Alice restaurants, you should be an informed diner. Here are some facts about the original Alice:
tails—just don’t drink too many and lose track of time (maybe this is what the White Rabbit was up to?). Whatever the plan, make sure to leave room for dessert. Fine pastries, whipped cream and brightly coloured berries are layered together in delicate treats to satisfy your sweet tooth. Tiramisu and freshly baked chocolate cake help to round out the selection. Create your own Mad Hatter tea party—order them all!
prices are slightly above average and the bill will include a 10 per cent service fee (consider it Wonderland inflation), so expect to pay more for your meal. But being able to say that you dined in Wonderland may be worth the price.
For the foodies out there, the experience of eating at Alice’s is as much about the décor as it is about the food. If you are looking for some authentic Japanese cuisine, you may want to search out another rabbit hole. But if you want to feed your other senses as much as you want to chow down on a French- and Italian-influenced menu (with a Japanese twist!), you’ll enjoy your time here.
Due to the popularity of the “Alice in Fantasy Book” Restaurant, reservations are necessary. But don’t despair if you can’t get into this corner of Alice’s world. Four other Alice-themed restaurants can be found in Tokyo, each offering their own unique design and menu. To make travel to these different Wonderland destinations easy, each restaurant is located in close proximity to the Tokyo train system. Wonderland dining experiences can occur near the Ikebukuro Station, Shinjuku West (where this particular restaurant is located), Shinjuku East, the Shibuya Station and the Ginza Station. Happy dining!
Keep in mind, dining in such fantastical surroundings comes at a cost. Guests are required to pay a ¥500 cover fee (that’s about $4.80 for us Canadian folk) in addition to purchasing a minimum of one food item and one drink. Menu
* Cute Alice reference aside, be careful! The restaurant is located on the underground level, so if you do find yourself falling into a rabbit hole, you may have actually fallen down a flight of stairs. Ouch!
Lewis Carroll wrote two Alice books, the first being Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland and the sequel being Through the Looking Glass. Lewis Carroll’s real name was Charles Lutwidge Dodgson. The first Alice book was written for a real-life Alice: Alice Liddell. Alice Liddell was a brunette, not a blonde. Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland was published on Nov. 26, 1865. Queen Victoria was a fan of the books. Lewis Carroll illustrated the first novel, but his drawings were replaced by those of another artist prior to publication.
Alice in Fantasy Book
Just a five-minute walk from the Shinjuku Station (west side), the “Alice in Fantasy Book” Restaurant is located on the underground level of the T-wing Building. Keep a lookout for the sign or you may miss it altogether! www.alice-restaurant.com/ehon TEL: 03-3207-9055 T-wing Building B2, 1-6-2 Kabuki-cho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo OPEN HOURS Mon–Fri: 5 pm –11:30 pm (last order 10:30 pm) Sat–Sun and holidays: 4 pm –11:30 pm ( last order 10:30 pm)
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Let’s go to
Ghibli Museum, Mitaka!
the
∼ 三鷹の森 ジブリ美術館 ∼
©Museo d’Arte Ghibli
Searching for a place where childhood fantasies like a library of treasures, a magical cat-bus and beautiful mosaics surround you, just as if you’ve been embraced by magic? If this sounds like your ideal place to be, make your next destination the Ghibli Museum, Mitaka!
The Ghibli Museum, Mitaka, opened in 2001, was designed by famed Japanese animation director Hayao Miyazaki and is a dreamlike gathering place for his far-reaching fans. Just stepping inside will transport you to wonderland! The museum is like a beautiful maze, adorned with handcrafted stained glass that depicts Ghibli characters and colourful scenes. If you’re looking for animated film gold, you’ll find it here. Big or small, this museum offers something for everyone. Animation fans can check out exclusive behind-the-scenes material. Or try exploring the building’s stunning architecture, dynamic film exhibits, life-sized ‘cat-bus’ and robot-topped terrace. Just make sure to refuel at the café, and take a peek in the one-of-a-kind Ghibli shop!
Ghibli Museum, Mitaka calendar 2015 Sold out
Busy
Closed
Currently available
Ticket quantity is limited for each visiting day. Please contact JTB as soon as you plan your visit. (Two months prior to your visit would be ideal!)
How to buy tickets outside Japan Entrance to the Ghibli Museum, Mitaka is strictly by advance purchase of a reserved ticket which specifies the appointed date of the reservation. You can get reserved tickets at designated local travel agency counters in Hong Kong, Taiwan, Korea, North America, Europe and Australia. Method of purchase In addition to purchasing tickets at JTB International (Canada) Ltd., reservations can be made by telephone or email. * For details, please contact JTB International (Canada) Ltd. www.jtb.ca
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Type of ticket Reservation ticket (admission voucher) with designated admission date. *Reservation ticket will be issued by JTB. Ticket prices (tax included) Adult (Age 19 and over) CAD $13.00 Youth (Age 13–18) CAD $ 9.50 Child (Age 7–12) CAD $ 5.00 Child (Age 4–6) CAD $ 1.50 *Children under 4 are admitted free of charge. *Transaction fee of CAD $5.00 + tax per ticket will be charged.
Information Ghibli Museum, Mitaka Address:1-1-83 Simorenjaku, Mitaka-shi,Tokyo, 181-0013 Website: www.ghibli-museum.jp How to get there? Take the JR Chuo Line to Mitaka Station. Approx. 20 min. from Shinjuku Station. From the Mitaka South Exit, approx. 15 min. walk along the Tamagawa Josui “Waterworks” to the museum. A community bus can be taken from Mitaka Station to the museum.
ŠJNTO
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Hit the books
By M Crowson Culture
A tragedy in three letters
More by Yasushi Inoue, translated by Michael
Emmerich:
The Hunting Gun
Bullfight Tsugami, the protagonist of this award-winning novella, is a newspaper editor in war-scarred Osaka whose life is dangerously consumed by the task of arranging a bullfight.
by Yasushi Inoue In postwar Japan, three women struggle to come to terms with the dark side of love.
Life of a Counterfeiter
Author info
Yasushi Inoue (井上 靖) became a novelist in 1949 with the publication of The Hunting Gun (猟銃) and Bullfight (闘牛). He went on to win numerous literary awards and establish himself as one of Japan’s most prolific modern writers. Michael Emmerich has published a dozen book-length translations of works by Japanese writers. He is also the editor of two books for Japanese-language students: Read Real Japanese: Fiction and New Penguin Parallel Texts: Short Stories in Japanese.
Remember the age of letter-writing—that distant time before email? It was an age when confessions came in the form of ink and envelope, when secrets took time to reveal themselves. It’s just that kind of slow unravelling that makes The Hunting Gun such a powerful story. Chosen as one of the Best Books of 2014 by Kirkus Reviews, Michael Emmerich’s translation of Inoue’s debut novella is the tale of a love triangle that unfolds in three letters.
and one from his lover, Saiko. The narrator first reads the letter from Shͻko. Raised by a divorcee with the help of friends, Shͻko loves Jͻsuke and his wife Midori like family, only to learn of her mother and Jͻsuke’s affair the day before Saiko’s death. In her letter, Shͻko thanks Jͻsuke for all his support with Saiko’s funeral, but writes that she can no longer see him or his wife without feeling the guilt of the affair.
Set in Japan just after the Second World War, the novella opens from the perspective of an unnamed narrator who’s recently published a poem called “The Hunting Gun,” inspired by a hunter he encountered in the mountains of Izu. The two don’t speak, but something about that gleaming steel against the stranger’s tall, straight back moves the narrator to write about loneliness. Two months after the poem’s publication, the narrator receives a letter from a man who claims to be the hunter, Jͻsuke Misugi. Moved by the narrator’s poetic insight, Jͻsuke writes that he has three letters in his possession which he’d planned to burn, but “having read your poem and learnt of your existence, I find myself wanting to share them with you.”
Midori’s letter is a heart-wrenching confession from an unfaithful wife whose own affairs were fueled by the knowledge of Jͻsuke’s decade-long infidelity. Midori accuses Jͻsuke of living a life “entirely free of loneliness” while she submerged her own passion in a series of meaningless highsociety affairs, “until at last we found ourselves living here within this magnificently frozen world.” Midori recalls the many moments their marriage could’ve ended, wondering why she never exposed the affair. She confesses that she felt angry and helpless beside her more beautiful, more graceful friend, Saiko, but her language is imbued with the chilling power of a woman with a window into a secret world.
Three letters follow: one from Jͻsuke’s lover’s daughter, Shͻko; one from his wife, Midori;
The final letter is a posthumous goodbye from Jͻsuke’s beloved Saiko. In the letter she reveals
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This collection of three perfectly executed stories probes into the difference between fact and fiction, and how the ‘fake’ can sometimes become more important than the original.
her truest self, and she imagines Jͻsuke briefly reigniting her life force as he reads it: “the second you cut the seal and lower your eyes … my life will flare up again and burn with all its former vigour, and then for fifteen or twenty minutes, until you read the very last word, my life will flow as it did when I was alive into every limb, every little corner of your body…” Each letter reveals the paradox of the human heart, which yearns to connect but holds itself away from others. The novella’s most striking image is that of a retreating back—Jͻsuke’s tall mountain silhouette; Saiko’s small, bent back on the day of her death; Midori turned away on a sofa in a cool afternoon breeze. Each image leaves you wondering if the characters will turn around. Similarly, reading each letter is like watching the back of someone close to you, wondering if they’ll turn toward you, or move further away. Inoue’s prose is beautifully translated by Emmerich, who gives each letter its own distinctive yet approachable style, and uses subtle spelling cues to tell us that we’re not in our own time. The book itself, exquisitely designed by Pushkin Press, is small and slender. It reminds us what it feels like to hold a secret in both hands.
KABUKICHO LOVE HOTEL SCREENING TO BE PRECEDED BY THE ANNOUNCEMENT OF THE TORONTO JAPANESE FILM FESTIVAL 2015 LINE-UP
Warning: Contains frank sexual content. Admittance restricted to persons 18+
Thursday, March 26, 2015 @7pm $8 JCCC members / $10 non-members Tickets available at 416.441.2345 6 Garamond Court, Toronto, ON M3C 1Z5
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What’s happening?
March 2015 Events Films Nagatsura—Home without Land
Anime North Anime North celebrates anime, manga, music, games and all other forms of Japanese culture! Midori Fukasawa, a well-known lolita model in Japan, will be attending the event as one of the guests of honour. >> Friday, May 22–Sunday, May 24 | Single admission $35 – 45 | Toronto Congress Centre (650 Dixon Rd., Toronto) | More info: www.animenorth.com
Exhibitions Byobu Screen Exhibition by Alejandro Bertolo Until Thursday, April 30 The Japan Foundation, Toronto (131 Bloor St. W., 2nd floor of the Colonnade, Toronto) More info: jftor.org/event/byobu > New exhibition at the Japan Foundation, displaying Japanese folding screens (byobu) by Alejandro Bertolo as well as work by his friend and former teacher, Hiroshi Yamamoto. Mr. Bertolo started his training in Japanese painting at the age of 19. He learned sumi-e and nihonga painting with many different Japanese artists and
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he also studied Japanese calligraphy with Master Calligrapher Masako Inkyo. Bertolo has shown his work in Canada, the UK, the US and Argentina. He currently resides in Montreal.
Kampai Toronto—Sake festival Thursday, May 28, 6:30 pm – 9 pm $80 Regular, $70 Advance, $95 VIP The Historic Distillery District (55 Mill St., Toronto) More info: kampaitoronto.com > The 3rd annual “Kampai Toronto” is the largest sake festival in Canada, showcasing over 120 of the best sake produced in Japan and North America. Every grade and style of sake will be presented, along with a myriad of appetizer-style foods courtesy of local restaurants in Toronto.
Thursday, March 19, 7 pm | $10 Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre (6 Garamond Ct., Toronto) Saturday, March 21, 3 pm | $10 Innis Town Hall, U of T (2 Sussex Ave., Toronto) More info: 647-784-6141, 905-624-8052 www.nagatsurahomewithoutland.com > A touching documentary film about the aftermath of the 3.11 Great East Japan Earthquake and Tsunami. Kazuko was in Toronto when the tsunami hit her hometown in Japan. Five days after the tsunami, she found out that her eldest brother was killed, along with his wife, daughter and great-grandchild. Kazuko swallows her fears to face this new reality, and makes an extraordinary trip back home.
Performances Nagata Shachu & Ensemble Jeng Yi Japanese & Korean Drums Concert Friday, March 27, 8 pm $20 Regular, $15 Senior, $5 Students Convocation Hall at McMaster University (1280 Main St. W., Hamilton) | More info: sota.mcmaster.ca/events/concerts/celebrity.html > As part of McMaster’s Friday Evening Concerts, a concert presenting a collaboration between Japanese and Korean drum groups will be held at the Convocation Hall. Nagata Shachu, based in Toronto, has enthralled audiences with its mesmerizing and heart-pounding performances of the Japanese drum (taiko) since its formation in 1998. Ensemble Jeng Yi is a Korean performing arts ensemble based in Toronto. Since their formation in 1998, the group has entertained audiences with their exciting repertoire of original compositions and traditional pieces.
Where Canadians can go to celebrate Japanese culture
Traditional Japanese Music by Koji Yamaguchi x Yoshihiko Fueki Thursday, April 16, 7 pm | $26.55 Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre (6 Garamond Ct., Toronto) | More info: jccc.on.ca
> Hello
Kitty is hitting the road with her first-ever North American live tour event! Join Hello Kitty and her supercute friends including Dear Daniel, My Melody, Badtz-Maru, Keroppi, Chococat and Pompom Purin in a unique celebration of fun, festivities and surprises.
Babymetal World Tour 2015
> Koji Yamaguchi will be back with his shamisen for a live concert at the JCCC along with international taiko performer Yoshihiko Fueki. Koji Yamaguchi has won numerous awards in national competitions and is considered a young hope of the tsugaru shamisen.
CanAsian International Dance Festival Thursday, April 30–Saturday, May 2, 8 pm | $25–30 Harbourfront Centre Theatre (231 Queens Quay W., Toronto) | More info: www.canasiandance.com
> The 2015 CanAsian International Dance Festival will be presenting four artists, including Natsu Nakajima from Tokyo. Nakajima is the doyenne of butoh dance and one of the first women involved in its founding in Tokyo in the 1960s. She will be performing the Toronto premiere of her work, Like Smoke Like Ash.
Tuesday, May 12, 7:00 pm | $58.25–68.75 Regular, $129 VIP | The Danforth Music Hall (147 Danforth Ave., Toronto) | More info: babymetal.jp > Fusing metal with J-pop, kawaii metal is coming to Toronto! When these three girls started Babymetal in 2010, lead singer Su-Metal was 12, and other members Moa-Metal and Yui-Metal were only 10!
Other The Japan Symposium Sunday, March 29, 8 am–5:30 pm | $40 Regular, $25 Students | Glendon College, York University (2275 Bayview Ave., Toronto) | More info: www.japansymposium.com >The Japan Symposium is a high-profile academic symposium on Japan, organized by a team of fourth-year students in International Studies at York University’s Glendon Campus. This particular symposium marks the 20th anniversary of the Annual International Studies Symposium.
Sakura Days Japan Fair Hello Kitty’s Supercute Friendship Festival Friday, May 29– Monday, October 5 | $34.40 –280 Selected US and Canadian cities, including Vancouver (Friday, July 17–Sunday, July 19) More info: www.sanrio.com/hkfestival
Saturday, April 11–Sunday, April 12 10 am–5 pm | $TBA | VanDusen Botanical Garden (5251 Oak St., Vancouver) | More info: www. japanfairvancouver.com > Come as your favourite anime character and be a part of the Cosplay Contest. Meet and greet
with voice stars of popular anime shows including Dragonball Z, Inuyasha, Gundam Seed and Black Lagoon. Experience the special ritual of the Japanese tea ceremony, enjoy Japanese festival food, sample premium sake, guided tree talks and walks to the cherry trees, and enjoy haiku readings. Try your hand at ikebana (flower arranging), calligraphy, origami and other Japanese arts and crafts demonstrations.
Katari Japanese Storytellers Saturday, March 21, 3 pm–5 pm The Japan Foundation, Toronto (131 Bloor St. W., 2nd floor of The Colonnade, Toronto) | More info and reservations: jftor.org/event/katari-2015 >Presented in partnership with Toronto Storytelling Festival 2015, a storytelling event focusing on Japanese stories will be held at the Japan Foundation. Katari Japanese Storytellers is a group of Japanese and Canadian narrators of various ethnic backgrounds. The event will be held in English with some Japanese words. Reservations are required.
Origami Workshop Wednesday, March 25, April 22, May 27, 7:30 pm –9 pm | $10 per workshop Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre (6 Garamond Ct., Toronto) | More info: jccc.on.ca > This unique new series of origami workshops kicks off again with John Jay Guppy from the Origami Society of Toronto. You will learn to fold both traditional favourites and the latest new models. Everyone will get a chance to try their skills and people of all levels will be able to have fun since there will be plenty of expert help available. All paper is provided.
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Styling tips
By Hiro Hayashi Beauty
Salon Bespoke Need some hairstyle inspiration? This soft, wavy bob is a great way to jazz up a short haircut. Tired of your short hair? Too boring, too flat or just no shape? Bring your cut to life with soft, feminine curls. You can add 3D layers to get full volume! The shape of this wavy cut nicely frames and flatters our model’s face. And a soft perm gives some body to the overall look.
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Creative Director
Hiro
Hairdressing is my biggest passion in life. For me, it’s not just about cutting hair—because my relationship Ü Ì Ê ÞÊV i ÌÃÊ ÃÊ ÕÃÌÊ>ÃÊ « ÀÌ> Ì°Ê > }Ê ÞÊV i ÌÃÊ feel happy with their new hairstyle or new look gives me so much pleasure!
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Film focus
By James Heron Movie
Kabukicho Love Hotel — Enjoy your stay Hiroki shows a deft hand balancing raw social realism and elements of screwball farce in a film that stirs the head and the heart rather than just the libido.
&(/" "' ( Kabukicho Love Hotel (2014)
©2014 Kabukicho Love Hotel Film Partners. Gambit/ Happinet
Directed by RyŠichi Hiroki Starring Shota Sometani, Atsuko Maeda, Roy Son Il-kwon, Lee EunWoo, Kaho Minami, Nao mori Written by Haruhiko Arai, Futoshi Nakano Director Ryichi Hiroki’s busy, hugely entertaining film mixes poignant drama and comic situations as it traces the intersecting lives of the staff and clientele at the Atlas Love Hotel in Tokyo’s notorious Kabukicho red-light neighbourhood.
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irector Ryichi Hiroki’s busy and hugely entertaining film traces the intersecting lives of the staff and clientele at the Atlas Hotel in Tokyo’s notorious Kabukicho red-light neighbourhood. It’s a seriocomic ensemble piece built around a d i verse cast driven to the seedy margins of the love hotel industry by lust, ambition, necessity, desperation and simple inertia. Kabukicho Love Hotel boasts a lively script by Haruhiko Arai and Futoshi Nakano, and strong lead and supporting performances. Toru (Shota Sometani), the establishment’s disenchanted manager, is having an exceptionally bad day. He has lost his job at a prestigious Tokyo hotel and must now settle for managing the slightly seedy, definitely disreputable Atlas— a fact he is hiding from his ambitious singersongwriter girlfriend, Saya (Atsuko Maeda, formerly of AKB48). Over the course of the next 24 hours we meet Saya again as she checks into the Atlas with a randy music industry executive. Meanwhile, down the hall, Toru discovers his estranged younger sister shooting a porn film in an attempt to pay the university tuition that her parents—ruined in the 3.11 disaster—can no longer afford. 36 Bento Box Magazine
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Other storylines include a pair of lust-crazed police detectives, a yakuza lothario and his young mark, and a member of the hotel cleaning staff who has been hiding a secret—and a man—in her closet for the past 15 years.
Atsuko Maeda scores again with a winning indie performance.
The hotel is also central to the life of Heya, a Korean “delivery girl” (read: call girl) working to raise money to open a shop with her mother back home. Her boyfriend Chong-su (5tion’s Roy Son Il-kwon) struggles both to make a hardscrabble living at a local Korean eatery and to accept Heya’s vocation. Lee Eun-Woo’s layered performance as Heya is, by turns, tough, fragile and deeply empathetic. Of all the storylines, this is perhaps the most compelling, taking the “hooker with a heart of gold” cliché and turning it into the emotional core of the film. Maeda also excels as Saya and proves that there is much more to her than pop idol good looks. With KLH, she continues to build on the indie film cred she established in lead roles in Kiyoshi Kurosawa’s The Seventh Code and Nobuhiro Yamashita’s Tamako in Moratorium. Her aching, gentle acoustic performance in the final moments of the film perfectly sums up the bittersweet tone
of muted joy, wistful resignation and quiet regret throughout the work.
KLH is moving, funny, sexually frank and full of incident—Hiroki shows a deft hand balancing raw social realism and elements of screwball farce. This is a film that stirs the head and the heart rather than the libido. But it is not for everyone: audience members expecting a leering sex comedy will be disappointed, while those who are at all prudish will be unlikely to make it to the halfway mark. The film is probably 20 minutes longer than it needs to be, but you’ll definitely want to stay to the very end of the credit roll—one of the storylines finds its conclusion in a manner that will send you out of the cinema with a big, goofy smile on your face. Audiences will find their stay at Hiroki’s Kabukicho Love Hotel a most satisfying two hours. Kabukicho Love Hotel will be screened at the Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre on March 26. The screening will be preceded by the announcement of the Toronto Japanese Film Festival’s 2015 lineup. www.jccc.on.ca
Memoir ࡔ ࡕ ࠕ lovely warm air between your comforter and sheets — no more feeling like you’re slipping between two sheets of ice! It is heaven. (Boyfriends are also helpful heaters, though not as reliable.) Getting up in the morning was torture. My room would be like Elsa’s frozen castle. Get dressed, you say? Do I have to? I would either do it in front of my small electric heater, or I would dive back into bed and fumble around in the residual heat. Oh, and forget about that flimsy polyester and acrylic clothing that we get away with wearing in Canada. A kind friend introduced me to the baba-shatsu, or “granny shirt”— a wool undershirt, absolutely necessary for a Japanese winter. While teaching in freezing classrooms, heated by just one small kerosene stove, I had to dress warmly or I would be frozen like a bean-paste ice bar by the end of the lesson. Illustration by Chieko Watanabe
Freezing my anpan off
By Shelley Suzuki
Surviving my first winter in Japan meant donning my warmest granny shirt— no matter how hideous. After sweltering through a sticky, humid summer during my first year in Japan, I was looking forward to cooler weather. But I found myself regretting that wish one blustery November evening. That day was particularly cold and bone-chilling, with a viciously biting wind. The click-clacking of my boots on the asphalt got progressively faster as I neared my tiny apartment, longing for warmer surroundings. When I got inside, it took me a split second to register a cold, hard fact: My apartment was even colder than outside. No, this can’t be possible! I swiftly turned on my heater and dived under my kotatsu (electric heated table). Still fully bundled
I quickly lost any “fashion before comfort” mentality. Since I walked or biked everywhere, I unashamedly wore my warmest baba-shatsu and was not afraid to slap sticky-backed hot pads all over my body to save me from frostbite. On the very coldest days, I wore a haramaki — like a sweater for your stomach, with a pocket for a heating pad. I felt like a seven-layer salad. Without central heating, I learned to love the divine pleasure of other warming techniques, like hot baths, onsens (hot springs), delicious, steaming tea and bubbling one-pot cuisine. In Canada, we forget how lucky we are to have central heating — but just one winter in Japan was enough to make me truly appreciate that luxury.
in my coat and gloves, shivering, I sat there trying to get the feeling back in my fingers and ears. Unfortunately, I quickly had to pee. I dreaded leaving my cosy cave, but I had to go. So I sprinted to the bathroom, sat down — and immediately bolted upright, my buttocks in shock. Oh, so that’s why there was a cord hanging from my toilet seat. I plugged that in, too. You will never know the comfort of a warm commode until you have experienced one that is 3 degrees Celsius. My hot water bottle became my best friend that winter. My boyfriend also brought me a futon heater, which is like a giant hair dryer that blows
Anpan: Sweet Japanese buns. Usually filled with red bean paste.
SHELLEY SUZUKI is a long-time teacher of English as a Second Language in Canada and Japan. She currently runs an English school via Skype and is pursuing a teaching career, or whatever other interesting opportunities may come her way. She appeared on the Japanese TV show Okusama wa Gaikokujin (My Wife is a Foreigner). She hopes to become a children’s book writer and illustrator when she grows up. Bento Box Magazine MARCH 2015 37
A Gastronomical Journey to Yunaghi Yunaghi, roughly translated as calm sunset, is a delightful “Japonaise” resto with a French twist ... or deux.
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sented with course after course of artful dishes that certainly amused my bouche.
I recently visited the latest restaurant to open just off Harbord, a street known for its haute cuisine. I should have realized the experience would surpass expectations when I was welcomed to my table by an origami crane bearing my name.
At Yunaghi, food is definitely art. With each new course, I hesitated to take that first bite lest I make a mess of the beautiful display in front of me. (Unfortunately, the food looked too good not to eat, so I happily made a mess of all of my dishes.) From appetizers splashed across my plate-turned-canvas to pretty-in-pink sashimi to a gorgeous variety of veggie ornaments on my plate, I was wowed by my entire meal.
hoose two countries that take food and art seriously. Create fusion masterpieces. Delight the senses. That’s what owners Yurika and Yasuko did when they opened Yunaghi.
A quick glance at the menu and I knew it wouldn’t be a typical Japanese meal. Yunaghi offers an eclectic mix of Japanese-inspired dishes with a little bit of French je ne sais quoi. Good thing I arrived with an empty stomach and an open mind—the nine-course menu is omakase, meaning I was about to place all of my trust in Yunaghi’s head chef, the talented Tetsuya Shimizu. Tetsuya chooses only the freshest ingredients to create his dishes each day. (While the menu undergoes seasonal modifications, certain ingredients may change more frequently, based on availability and freshness.) Eating omakase-style meant I got to sit back and relax as I was pre38 Bento Box Magazine
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And the dishes turned out to be just as creative in taste as in look. While a bath of green-tea dashi gave an old favourite (sashimi) new life, the shira-ae (seasonal veggies) sprinkled with orange zest and almond glass made for a citrusy sweet surprise. My personal favourite, the roast chicken, swam in a duck-chicken-pork soup that packed triple the flavour of your average broth. Ooh la la! For diners with adventurous palates, Yunaghi is a must-visit. It’s like a playground for your senses.
Shira-ae: bite love at first
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Kaa hleen spent years cho Kat wing down in JJapan, and once even she d a tear while eating exceptionally goo d grub. Known as a “sushi snob” among friends, Kathleen is one of those ann oying people w who believes food is art and enjoys cclogging your news feed cl with food pics. Currrrently, she lives and C eats in Toronto. www.kathleenohaga n.com
Yunaghi Gastronomie Japonaise 538 Manning Ave., Toronto | 416-588-7862 "«i \Ê7i`q-Õ Êx\ÎäÊ« q£ÓÊ> ÊUÊ q/ÕiÃÊV Ãi`
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