Japanese Culture | Hot Spots | Products | Food
Sep. 2016
No.19 FREE www.bentoboxmag.ca A LEGENDARY CASTLE
Himeji is a portal to the past GUU’D TO BE BACK
An old favourite izakaya has returned to Toronto
FLAIR for
LIFE
10
Feature
CHEERFUL
ACCESSORIES
02
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
Contents
September 2016 No.19
Food
Featured
08 Guu’d stuff
04 10 cheerful accessories
Sushi and a pint, please! A Japanese pub favourite is back on the scene in Toronto, bringing fusion eats to a new neighbourhood.
This fall, cheer up your look (and life!) with these creative accessories that hail all the way from Japan.
16 MUJI product picks 10 The mighty, minty herb Big in Japan and growing internationally, this not-so-little leaf is everything a plant should be—and more.
12 A sake for all occasions Two Bento Box reporters took a great summer sake and put it to the test.
This collection will give you a reason to look forward to fall! Functional wool with an international sensibility.
08
28 Local events Celebrate Japanese culture in your own backyard.
Culture
30 Talking Japan in Toronto 38 The taste of home Matching his comfort-food menu, the name of Chef Koki’s restaurant honours the Sakawa River that runs through his childhood town.
Lasso-swinging filmmaker Ogata has been capturing attention with his cross-cultural sketch comedy series, Yukata Cowboy.
22 Only in Japan Enter the not-so-secret world of Japanese gambling with pachinko, a game of chance that is definitely not pinball. Ask anyone.
Travel
32 Hit the books Strong women run a powerful family from the shadows in this supernaturally tinged saga of Japan from postwar times to today.
18 Featured destination: Himeji Himeji is home to one of Japan’s premier castles and the finest surviving example of Edo-style Japanese architecture in the country.
34 Exploring Japanese sports Toronto’s not the only place that will be holding a hockey showdown this fall.
24 One-of-a-kind dining
36 One day in Japan
Tera Café in trendy Daikanyama is bringing Buddhist traditions into the modern world with classes, consultations and calm.
04
No detail is spared at the new Guu, where sashimi is artfully served on handmade pedestals
Summer in Japan is time for tasty delicacies and hanabi (fireworks) by the sea.
Cute and creative accessories to fit every part of your life Join the conversation on Facebook and Twitter
EDITOR’S NOTE
Nina Hoeschele
facebook.com/bentoboxmag
Falling back into autumn
twitter.com/bentoboxmag
This season always feels both nostalgic and exciting—maybe it’s the memory of all those first days of school. It reminds me of childhood, but it also retains that feeling of renewal, like everything’s being refreshed. If you’re also a fan of nostalgia, you may consider visiting Himeji (p. 18), a storied city with Japan’s premier Edo-style castle. Closer to home, there’s Sakawa Coffee (p. 38), a restaurant that recreates the chef’s childhood comfort foods. And if you long after the days of visiting Guu Izakaya (p. 08), good news—it’s finally back in Toronto! Prefer to live in the moment? We’ve got plenty for you, too: from cheerful Japanese products (p. 04) to brighten up your days, to a host of fun activities for you to immerse yourself in—whether you prefer watching the big game (p. 34), catching some sketch comedy (p. 30) or plunking down in front of a pachinko machine (p. 22).
Editors Nina Hoeschele, Amanda Plyley, Yumi Nishio Editorial coordinators Nina Hoeschele, Yumi Nishio Writers Amanda Plyley, Ariel Litteljohn, D’arcy Mulligan, Justine Wong, Kathleen O’Hagan, M Crowson, Nicholas Jones, Nina Lee, Sarah Dickson, Walter Muschenheim Designers Chiyako Mukai, Reiko Ema Illustrator Chieko Watanabe Photographers Kazu Maruyama, Kazuki Watanabe Production assistants Alexandra Weaver, Arisa Shinozuka, Kaori Sakamoto, Lisa Tower,
No matter if you’re looking forward or back, we’re lucky to have so many cross-cultural experiences in our beautiful city.
Makoto Tachibana, Matthew Zhang, Yuki Yonetani Advertisement & marketing Maiko Kurotaki Publisher Kazu Maruyama
Bento Box Communication Inc.
ISSN 2368-9153
|
600 Bay St., Suite 410, Toronto, ON, M5G 1M6
|
Phone: 416-847-6799
|
www.bentoboxmag.ca
|
Email: info@bentoboxmag.ca
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
03
Feature
10
By Kathleen O’Hagan
CHEER FILLED
01 The best Our phones reflect our personalities more than ever these days, so why not reinvent yours with some Japanese style? These unique iPhone cases don’t just look good … they’re practical, too! The corners have bumper edges to help protect your phone if it’s dropped.
accessories Japanese style that’ll make you smile This fall, cheer up your look (and life!) with these creative accessories that hail all the way from Japan. Decorate your room, your phone— or your feet. Accessorize with animals. Make a (Japanese) statement!
up Cosy et r fe you e thes h t i s w shoe tabi
02 Five’s a crowd Ever wish you could chop off your baby toe so your favourite shoes would fit? With these shoes and slippers, your big toe has a room of its own, giving the rest all the space they need. Available in a variety of vivid patterns that take traditional Japanese textiles to a contemporary place.
with ned ooks e t s Fa al h tion i d a tr
04
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
-case scenario
Dress up your phone with these cool cases, featuring artistic patterns from the Land of the Rising Sun
03
Show off those toes!
Replace your regular purse with an elegant origami tote bag. With designs that look like they are straight out of Memoirs of a Geisha, your friends will wonder if you travelled back in time. Leather handles and a handy inner pocket for phone or keys make these tote bags pretty and practical!
04
Get your geisha on
Make sure you express your personality with every part of your outfit—from head to toe! These adorable tabi socks come in vibrant patterns that are sure to leave you with happy feet. With designs ranging from cheerful veggies to fearsome samurai, there’s a pair for everyone. www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
05
05 Fall in puppy love Impress your house guests with towels that are as fluffy as they are cute! Or save the softness for yourself and indulge in some puppy love after your next bath. Fun tip! If you fold the towels just right and place them at the top of your laundry, you’ll think there’s a sleeping puppy in your basket.
06
Head in the clouds
CUTENESS AND EVERY PART
08 Turn over a new leaf If you love the idea of caring for a pretty little bonsai tree, but lack that all-important green thumb, the Kami-bonsai might just be for you. Made entirely of paper, this set lets you grow and position your bonsai in any way you please—no tools required.
Animal lovers, why not show off how much you adore your furry friends with a uniquely hand-carved Amabro pen? Choose from farm animals, wild animals or house pets—or get one of each! Whether classmates or colleagues, you’ll get a meow wow the next time you start taking notes.
09 More info about these products
06
SEPTEMBER 2016
01, 02, 03, 3 04: 04 SOU SOU KYOTO, KYOTO Y www.sousouus.com www ww sousouus ouu com | 05, 05 07, 07 7 10: Felissimo, Feliss ssim mo www.felissimo.co.jp/int www ww felissimo co jjp/in | 06: Kyototo, www.kyototo.jp/en |
www.bentoboxmag.ca
Rest on top of the world with this Mt. Fuji pillow
07
Not your gardenvariety bag
Each of these handy little purses comes with plenty of inside pockets—perfect for storing all your cards, money and more. Available in three bright, bold floral patterns: Ryukyu-style prints that are traditional to the islands of Okinawa. Collect the whole set and you’ll have an accessory for any occasion!
La your head on something Lay me that t looks ook and d feels like a cloud! Small enough to bring with you on your next trip, you can cuddle your Mt. Fuji cushion as you enjoy the sight of Japan’s most famous mountain from your window. Or rest your head on a cloud while flying through them!
CREATIVITY FOR OF YOUR LIFE
rry ve fu ls, a h tai We -pom m o p too!
10
Love animals? Stuff those cheeks Take note
What do hamsters and pouches have in common? They both like to stuff their cheeks … one with food, the other with coins and cosmetics! These gamaguchi (traditional coin purses) have a metal clasp that can stand up to full cheeks—so don’t worry about stuffing in as much as you can.
08: Tachikawa Paper Co., www.kami-asobi.jp/kami-bonsai/ (To order, search”kami-bonsai” at global.rakuten.com/en) | 09: Amabro, amabro-online.com
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
07
Best o Best off T Toronto oronto
By Amanda By Am ma anda P Plyley llyylleeeyy Restaurant
Guu’d stuff
Sushi and a pint, please! A Japanese pub favourite is back on the scene in Toronto, bringing fusion eats to a new neighbourhood.
Hungry for more? Let’s dig in!
Nestled in the heart of foodie-friendly Parkdale, amongst hipster hangouts and eclectic street art, there’s a newly opened Japanese restaurant that already has quite the reputation. Born in Vancouver, Guu Izakaya first came to Toronto seven years ago and flourished. Repeatedly named the city’s best Japanese restaurant by multiple media outlets, Guu was the go-to culinary hot spot for Torontonians looking to enjoy high-quality, handcrafted Japanese food and drinks in the relaxed atmosphere of a neighbourhood pub. After business contracts ended last fall and one half of Guu’s leadership rebranded as Kinka Izakaya, original General Manager Masaru Ogasawara set out to reopen and re-establish Guu in downtown Toronto.
Hit up the new west end location and you’ll find old favourites as well as uniquely crafted, daily-changing menus to suit the diverse neighbourhood. Kakimayo (baked oyster with mayo and cheese) and karaage (fried chicken with garlic mayo) are as popular as ever, while gyu (beef) tongue steak is a standout, carefully broiled to juicy perfection. The drink menu is robust, featuring sake, Sapporo and Asahi, shochu (Japanese liquor), umeshu (plum wine) and creative cocktails like sake mojitos and Okinawa iced tea. And it’s not just the food and drinks that are handcrafted: Guu staff designed and built many elements of the restaurant itself, from the maple wood dishes and menus to the stylish bathroom sinks, tiles and mirrors. Traditional Japanese wood shutters bring a warm ambience to the space—perfect for dinner with friends, drinks after work or an intimate date.
Gyu tongue Thinly sliced and topped with slivers of garlic, this beef tongue steak is sure to make your tastebuds melt.
Niku sushi It doesn’t get much better than blowtorched AAA Angus beef sushi, complemented by a shiso leaf and a hint of wasabi.
Guu’ru Ogasawara
Sashimori A staircase of sashimi! Served on a maple wood pedestal built by Guu staff, this main dish offers two pieces each of shrimp, octopus, hamachi (yellowtail), scallops and salmon.
Shoyu ramen A piping hot bowl of Tokyo soy ramen with a generous helping of tontoro chashu pork is perfect for a cool autumn evening.
After a handful of years in Vancouver and seven in Toronto, General Manager Masaru Ogasawara has been with Guu for over a decade. He’s thrilled to be back in business, working with a great team and greeting customers old and new. Friendly and sociable, he’ll make your visit a memorable one.
Guu Izakaya www.guu-izakaya.com TEL: 647-351-1314 1314 Queen St. W., Toronto OPEN: Sun–Thurs 5:30 pm–11:30 pm Fri–Sat 5:30 pm–12:30 am
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
09
Flavour of the month
By Amanda Plyley Ingredient
お刺身のツマに、梅干しの色つけに…。 香り高い紫蘇は賢い脇役。 shiso) presents as large leaves with jagged edges and tastes citrusy and slightly spicy, with hints of cinnamon and lavender. It commonly serves as a complement to sashimi and sushi or as a decorative receptacle for tsuma (garnishes), but can be finely diced and added to soups, salads and just about any noodle dish, hot or cold. Akajiso (red or purple shiso) has a subtler, almost lemony flavour and is used primarily to give colour to umeboshi (pickled plum) and the Kyoto specialty shibazuke (pickled cucumber).
Shiso 紫蘇
【しそ】
The mighty, minty herb Big in Japan and growing internationally, this not-so-little leaf is everything a plant should be—and more. In Toyohashi, Aichi Prefecture, there is a particular herb that grows wild and plentiful each summer. These days it’s most often green, but it has a history of boasting red and purple shades as well. Packaged on Styrofoam trays lining supermarkets throughout Japan and commonly spotted adorning the sashimi platters of restaurants, shiso is a much-loved Japanese ingredient that packs an impressive punch of flavour and culinary versatility.
or ninth century. Its Japanese name is taken from its Chinese name, “zisu,” but this leafy green has answered to more than one name over the years: wild sesame, Chinese basil and—curiously— beefsteak plant, among others. When shiso production in Japan spiked in the second half of the twentieth century, the increasingly popular herb became known as ooba (big leaf) and earned itself a permanent spot in kitchens across the country.
A member of the mint family, shiso originated in China and was introduced to Japan in the eighth
Selecting one type of shiso over another requires consideration as to its intended use. Aojiso (green
10
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
Vibrant colours and flavours aside, shiso is remarkably easy to cultivate and boasts plenty of health benefits to boot. It grows best in warm climates, its seeds planted in moist soil with partial to full sun exposure. With only a moderate amount of attention and watering, shiso plants can grow up to three feet tall—and as a perennial plant it will self-seed again the following year. Whether from garden or grocery store, shiso is said to promote blood circulation, protect the nervous system and fight morning sickness. Green shiso is rich in calcium and iron while red shiso contains anthocyanins, the same flavonoids found in blackberries and cranberries, which are known for their antibacterial, anti-inflammatory properties. If you haven’t tried shiso yet, keep an eye out and you’ll be sure to spot it in several different cuisines. In addition to Japanese dishes, shiso and its sister herbs in the mint family can often be found adding a welcome boost of flavour to Korean barbecue and Vietnamese summer rolls. And it’s easy to get creative in the kitchen with shiso. Infuse the leaves in water for a refreshing summer drink, or add a sprig to a mojito in place of the usual mint. Mix it into a fruit salad or try your hand at making a shiso jelly dessert: mince and boil the leaves along with gelatin, honey, lemon juice and sugar, then chill for consistency. Get your greens any way you can!
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER EPT EP PPTTEMB TEEM EMBE EMB M MBE MB BEER 2 B 2016 20 01 16 6
11
Sake Report Kikusui Junmai Ginjo
A sake for all occasions
Ange, avseyrsatile drinkbineverage
Bento Box staff Nicholas Jones and Lisa Tower took a great summer sake and put it to the test. For this month’s Sake Report, we tried something new and sent Bento Box staff Lisa Tower and Nicholas Jones out to Don Don Izakaya to see how one of our favourite summer sakes, Kikusui Junmai Ginjo, paired with some classic Japanese dishes. Nicholas I hadn’t had any experience with Kikusui going into this Sake Report, and I got pretty excited about it when reading up on its history. I’ve always been a sucker for drinks with a good backstory—whether it’s the godly mead of the Vikings, or the hallucinogenic history of absinthe. This sake doesn’t disappoint in this respect as its name refers to a myth about a 700-year-old exiled man and chrysanthemum mist as the secret to eternal youth! The brewery itself
Kikusui has c notes and gorisp down smoothes .
Works equally well with light and heavy dishes!
Nicholas L Definitely. From my first sip, I could tell this sake was different. Other sake I’ve tried has seemed harsh, with the taste of alcohol coming through clearly. However, I really enjoyed Kikusui, and didn’t get any of this harshness.
Lisa
N Yes! I hope this doesn’t make me sound like a big drinker, but I’ve never had Lisa’s harshness problem with sake. That being said, the Kikusui did seem smoother than a lot of other sake I’ve tried. We were served our drinks chilled, which is the best way to draw out the complex fragrances—and we could clearly pick up the sweet, fruity notes in the sake, which I loved. (The fruity and elegant finish is due to Kikusui’s extended brewing process and the use of gohyakumangoku rice, which is specially made for sake brewing.)
has a long history, too: it’s an award-winning sake producer, located in Niigata Prefecture, which is famous for its breweries.
o nt e B x bo terS r po Re
L i s a For my part, I didn’t know much about Kikusui as I’m not much of a sake drinker. I mean, I’ve definitely had my share, but I’ve never had a sake that really caught my attention.
L Typically, you pair sake with sushi or sashimi as the delicate flavours of the fish work well with the delicate flavours of the drink. It was recommended we try this particular sake with takowasa: raw octopus mixed with wasabi. I can see why this was the recommended pairing for Kikusui as they went especially well together. The wasabi notes from the takowasa definitely complemented the sake.
N Until now! Continues on page 14 12
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
13
Sake Report
Kikusui Junmai Ginjo
ut Cheackke oreport our s venue
I’ve never had a sake that really caught my attention—until now!
Don d on Izaka ya Don Do
n Izakay a is a ce restaura ntrally lo nt with cated an impre sake fro ssive coll m all ov ection o er Japan f full of au , and a d thentic iz elicious menu akaya (p ub-style ) fare. www.d ondoniz akaya.c om
Continued from page 12
N Agreed! Though we went with accepted convention on pairing Kikusui with takowasa, we were allowed to choose whatever we wanted for our second dish, so naturally we went with— L Karaage! Japanese deep-fried chicken, and one of the best-tasting things Japan has ever produced! However, with its heavy, oily flavour
This plea sake s a n has t ҕQLV , fruity a K
14
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
and hints of ginger when done correctly, it’s a dish you’d be more likely to pair with a beer than a wine.
Kikusui Junmai Ginjo
N Yeah, only crazed fried-chicken lovers like us would ever want to pair karaage with a choice bottle of sake. Like Lisa mentioned, sake is known for its clean, delicate flavour, and subjecting this delicacy to the full-on gastronomical assault of karaage is a stress test that not many sakes are going to survive. L Except this one did. We were both amazed at how well the Kikusui held up in the face of this stick-to-your-ribs Japanese comfort food. We came up with the idea of pairing it with karaage as a kind of joke, mostly as an excuse to eat more karaage, but Kikusui really showed its versatility. The sake’s crisp notes were perfect for cutting through the oil and ginger in the karaage to cleanse the palate after this heavy dish. It’s definitely a sake that I’ll be enjoying again!
Try Kikusui for yourself at a local izakaya—or, for a limited time, you can find it at the LCBO.
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
15
MUJI debuts its autumn-winter collection
This collection will give you a reason to look forward to fall! Yoko Quinton
Administrations and Operations Manager, MUJI Canada
Part of me looks forward to fall because it’s a great time to showcase your style, but part of me just wants to bundle up and hide from the cold! That’s why I’m so excited about MUJI’s autumn-winter line. Today I’m wearing the women’s stretch easy ankle pants in navy and the women’s wool silk crew neck cardigan in caramel. The trousers are structured for a classic look, but the material is so soft and comfortable that it hardly feels like I’m wearing such an elegant piece! They are warm but light and even though they are close-fitting they hang very comfortably. I like simple, high-quality basics and this line really suits my style.”
“
This cardigan is light and soft, but still warm enough to stand up to the changing weather. Each piece in this collection is premium wool that is warm, breathable and soft. In addition to being fashionable, wool is a great transitional material for the season, as it keeps the chill off while still looking and feeling light. 7 i ½ÃÊ7 Ê- Ê ÀiÜÊ iV Ê >À` }> \Êfx Ê } ÌÊ Grey, Navy, Orange, Red, Smoky Blue, Black, Camel, > Ê Àii ®ÊNÊ7 i ½ÃÊ7 Ê-ÌÀiÌV Ê >ÃÞÊ iÊ Pants: $79 (Grey, Navy)
Functional wool with an international sensibility Vernon Rubiano
Garments Department Lead and Style Advisor, MUJI Canada
My style changes with every season. Going into autumn and winter I like to dress very cosy, which is what the wool collection is going to be all about. It’s going be a lot of chunky knits, big sweaters, big cardigans and really luxurious cashmere. Comfortable, a little bohemian, with some more streamlined pieces too. I associate wool with bohemian, globetrotting looks, but the way that MUJI presents it is very personable. You can wear this collection every day: at work and at home, at school or out to dinner. All of MUJI’s clothes are pieces you can live your life in. This collection really embodies that approach. It’s elegant and functional.”
“
MUJI’s autumn-winter collection for 2016 is all about wool. The brand sources the highestquality materials from all over the world and establishes lasting relationships with its suppliers. MUJI’s wool comes from producers in New Zealand and Mongolia—and these are suppliers who the company works with year after year, because the quality is always exceptional. Men’s Wool Silk Crew Neck Sweater: $69 (Black, Dark Navy, Dark Grey, Oatmeal)
For more information
www.muji.com/ca 16
SEPTEMBER 2016
MUJI Atrium
MUJI Square One
Atrium, 20 Dundas St. W., C-03, Toronto | TEL: 416-591-2233
Square One Shopping Centre, 100 City Centre Dr., Mississauga | TEL: 905-276-2737
Store Hours: Mon–Fri 10 am–8 pm ->ÌÊ£äÊ> qÇÊ« ÊUÊ-Õ Ê££Ê> qxÊ«
Store Hours: Mon–Fri 10 am–9 pm ->ÌÊ \ÎäÊ> q Ê« ÊUÊ-Õ Ê££Ê> qÇÊ«
www.bentoboxmag.ca
ME
Tokyo is continually generating new styles and subcultures at the intersection of tradition and innovation. The city is always encountering and connecting with new ideas that create its unique charms. The emotions and experiences that await you in Tokyo are sure to transcend your expectations. You will take on the role of the architect of your own experience as you create your ideal Tokyo rendezvous.
CONNECT WITH TOKYO FOR A NEW BEGINNING!
gotoky o. o rg
a nd to ky o. j p/en /
Featured destination
By Nina Lee Travel
播磨 播 播磨地域の中心地、 磨地 地域 域の の中 中心 心地、 心地 地、 姫 姫路。 路。 路。 世界遺産、 世界遺 界遺産、 産、 姫路城に象徴される歴史 姫路城 姫路 城に に象 象徴 徴さ され れる歴 る歴史 ・ ・ 文化都市。 文化都 文化 都市 市。 ©Chiyako Mukai
Himeji Himeji is home to one of Japan’s premier castles and the finest surviving example of Edostyle Japanese architecture in the country. Rising above the tree-lined streets, the main keep of Himeji-jͻ, or Himeji Castle (姫路城), towers over the city below. For more than 600 years, the people of Himeji have lived in its shadow, protected from attacks and mesmerized by its beauty. Located by the Harima-nada Sea, the city is easily accessible from Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto and Hiroshima by shinkansen (bullet train). The city is synonymous with Himeji-jͻ, and it exists
18
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
today mainly because of the castle. The castle has survived air raids in the Second World War, the 1995 Great Hanshin earthquake and numerous destructive typhoons to stand alone as Japan’s pre-eminent wooden building and the finest surviving example of Edo-style Japanese architecture.
Legends and humble beginnings
Himeji 【姫路】
Tour Japan’s foremost Edo-period castle Grand Himeji-jͻ (姫路城) had humble beginnings. Initially built as a fort on top of Himeyama hill, it was completed in 1333 by Akamatsu Sadanori. The building was later rebuilt as Himeyama Castle. Over the course of the next 200 years, numerous generals took control of the keep and added their own flourishes to the building. By 1609, Himeji-jͻ consisted of five storeys and seven floors, and had been rebuilt three times. By 1808, Himeji-jͻ had been the home to no fewer than 20 daimyo (feudal lords), retainers and generals tasked with protecting the area and the castle. Perhaps the most famous of these residents is Princess Sen (or Senhime), whose tragic story is the subject of many period dramas. Today, Himeji-jͻ is registered as one of UNESCO’s World Cultural Heritage Sites. The castle is colloquially known as Hakuro-jͻ or Shirasagi-jͻ (白 鷺城), meaning “the white egret/heron castle,” because it looks like a white heron in flight, spreading her wings. The castle has undergone numerous restorations in recent years using traditional methods and materials to maintain its historic significance. It’s also enormous, standing over 30 metres tall, built on a 15-metre-tall stone wall platform and sitting atop a 45-metre-high hill. The complex is comprised of more than 83 structures, which include its 27 towers, 21 gates, four keeps and four roofed passage towers. The twin shachihoko (鯱瓦, mythical tiger-headed, koi-bodied creatures) standing on the roof of
Himeji-jͻ are two metres tall alone. As you stroll up the expansive walkway past courtyards, gates, towers and a gigantic moat filled with koi, the castle looms overhead with its gleaming walls and majestic sculptures adorning the multistoried roofs. The interior was built using Japanese cypress, and hidden features abound for travellers with keen eyes.
Traditional kimono, footwear and accessories are available in the shopping district.
Stroll through serene gardens and enjoy the tea ceremony Looking out the windows at the top of the castle, the neighbouring gardens of Koko-en (好古園) stretch for more than three and a half hectares. Constructed in 1992 at the archaeological site where the original homes of the samurai and the Lord’s West Residence once stood, Koko-en is composed of nine gardens built using traditional plants and techniques from the Edo period. The gardens open with a large pond replete with more than 250 colourful carp swimming past waterfalls and a winding path through evergreen trees, vibrant bushes and boulders specially selected for their harmonious shape. Koko-en is also home to a lovely teahouse where you can enjoy traditional matcha, whisked to create an aerated, creamy drink, accompanied by a handmade sweet. The teahouse faces Himeji-jͻ, where the resplendent view is complemented by wind whispering through the trees in the garden, creating a relaxed, contemplative atmosphere. The attendants present the tea and sweets in the traditional manner and explain the steps of the tea ceremony for their guests.
©Chiyako Mukai
Himeji is home to many attractions Many people visit Himeji to see the castle, never venturing to the many local matsuri (festivals) or other attractions. Shoshazan Engyͻ-ji (書寫 山圓教寺) is a Zen Buddhist temple complex consisting of 22 sites located on the summit of Mt. Shosha, about a 25-minute bus ride from Himeji Station. The Mt. Shosha Ropeway offers 360-degree views of the mountain, castle and surrounding town. www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
19
Himeji eats and treats
Himeji’s rich dishes and charming souvenirs reflect the storied history of a legendary castle and its samurai heritage. The local gardens offer authentic scenery that takes visitors back in time to the romantic Edo period.
Food & souvenirs
Visit the many traditional shops and food stalls
©ACworks Co.,Ltd.
Ekisoba (above): A simple and inexpensive soba noodle soup with green onions (negi), fried tofu and a light broth. Available in Himeji Station and throughout the city. Himeji Oden (below): Eaten throughout Japan, oden is made with broth that’s full of delicious fish cakes, beef tendons, vegetables and eggs. Himeji’s variation is enjoyed with soy sauce and ginger.
©Chiyako Mukai
©Geomedian
Near Himeji Station lies the shopping district, a covered shͻtengai (commercial district) replete with bakeries, cafés, shops, restaurants and traditional clothing boutiques. Within the shotengai and along ©ACworks Co.,Ltd. the main streets, you’ll find many delicacies and dishes popular in Himeji: simple ekisoba made with fried tofu and soba noodles in a light broth as well as oden, a stew made with fish cakes, vegetables, eggs and beef tendon in a ginger- and soy-sauce-based broth, are available on most street corners. Sake made from rice produced in the local Hyogo region pairs well with the local akashiyaki (octopus in pancake batter, served as small balls with a dipping broth) and gujya-yaki, the local variety of okonomiyaki savoury pancake. Perhaps because of its royal history, Himeji is best known for its sweets—Western-style roll cakes and Japanese confectioneries such as mochi, mung bean sweets and wagashi candies. From her regal surroundings to her delightful morsels, the splendour of Himeji leaves visitors always wanting more. All photos courtesy of Himeji City unless otherwise noted
20
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
21
Cultural curiosity
By M Crowson Only in Japan
Show some ball bearings Enter the not-so-secret world of pachinko, a game of chance that’s definitely not pinball. 一度は経験したい大量出玉！ 日本でちょっとギャンブルしてみる？ one at a time; pachinko players can choose how many balls they want to purchase. One-yen balls are the lowest stakes and the most popular choice for beginners, while the higher-stake 4-yen balls are popular with professionals. Once you’ve settled in, you’ll find a lever that shoots hundreds—or sometimes thousands—of balls onto the playing field. But while the goal in pinball is to keep your ball in play and out of the hole, in pachinko the goal is to shoot the balls out at just the right speed to get them into specific holes, which then trigger the release of a bunch of bonus balls. Those balls are released from the bottom of the machine and are dropped into a plastic bin. Once the bin fills up, you can press the call button and an attendant will dump it into a counting machine, which will then return a slip of paper that indicates how many balls were in the bin (or bins, if you are a die-hard player and have been filling up bins for hours, probably chain-smoking all the while). After playing, take your slip to the prize counter and select from an array of weird prizes, like a cigarette, a CD or a stuffed animal. How much would you wager that gambling is illegal in Japan? If you bet yes, you’d be right. Technically. Gambling for cash is not allowed, but there are actually a variety of ways to get around that rule in the Land of the Rising Sun, the most popular being pachinko (パチンコ). Pachinko is a game that looks and sounds a bit like pinball, with flashing lights, big noises, and famous celebrities and characters prominently
22
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
featured in the game. But instead of several larger balls, you play with hundreds of tiny silver balls that look like ball bearings. Pachinko parlours are a bit more like Vegas slot rooms than anything else: think a line of machines gently bathed in cigarette smoke and the dinging sound of balls hitting pins. And instead of leaning over a slanted machine that spits balls into a maze of pins and flippers, pachinko players sit facing a flat game field. Pinball players let loose a set number of balls
This is where the gambling part comes in. You take your prize outside to a secret booth that will give you cash for the item, but you can’t ask the parlour employees how to find the booth. This roundabout form of gambling is Japan’s worstkept secret, and one of its most popular pastimes. It’s estimated that around 30 million people spend hundreds of billions of yen a year on pachinko.
Know your pachinko etiquette
RULES OF THE GAME Want to learn how to avoid offending your fellow pachinko enthusiasts when you’re at the parlour? Just follow these simple tips:
Do NOT play two machines at once.
DO watch your step.
You’ll see plenty of loose balls on the floor, since it’s considered bad luck to pick them up. Don’t slip!
Other people may want to play that machine, so don’t be a hog.
DO be an adult.
You must be at least 18 to play pachinko, so no sneaking in, kiddos! Illustrations by Chieko Watanabe
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
23
One-of-a-kind dining
By Sarah Dickson Restaurant in Tokyo
お坊さんのありがたいお話と お坊 お 坊さ さん んの のあ あり りが がた たい いお お話 話と 美味しい料理で、 美味 美 味 味しい しい し い料 料理 理で、 で、心も身体もデトックス。 心も 心 も身 身体 体も もデ デト トッ ック ッ クス ク ス。
Coffee, tea and spirituality Tera Café in trendy Daikanyama is bringing Buddhist traditions into the modern world with classes, consultations and calm. Like many faiths around the world, Buddhism has been struggling to keep up with the pace of modern life. The fact is that few Japanese practise the customs of Buddhism, perhaps with the exception of funerals, and maybe a holiday or two. Tera Café is trying to change that. With its location in the trendy Daikanyama district of Tokyo, Tera Café aims to connect the traditions of Buddhism to life in the 21st century. Owned and staffed by monks, the café strives to provide a low-pressure sanctuary where visitors can access 24
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
counselling, learn more about Buddhism’s traditions and centuries-old teachings, or simply enjoy a relaxing place where they can get away from the everyday stresses of urban life. The café’s modern twist on spirituality is attempting to solve a problem that many faiths are feeling in today’s world. Imported to Japan in the 6th century, Buddhism is firmly present in Japanese culture. But with the unique pressures of the fast-changing modern world, it has waning influence on the daily lives of most Japanese. And just as we see in the West—for instance,
churches struggling to remain open in the face of declining attendance, and fewer people willing to identify themselves with a particular faith or church—Buddhism in Japan is experiencing similar threats to its existence. Tera Café is hoping to counter this trend by providing a contemporary atmosphere where people can relax as they might in a coffee shop while still learning and connecting with the traditions of Buddhism. The monks at Tera Café hope, just as the pioneers of Japanese Buddhism did over 1,500 years ago, that the fundamental teachings of Buddhism can still enrich everyday life.
Who knew enlightenment tasted this good?
L
Buddhism facts and figures Before you step into Tera Café, here’s a primer on some essential elements of Buddhism.
A sutra is a Buddhist scripture that is intended to provide a lesson or life advice. These are often long, but repetitive, to help people remember them. Japanese Buddhism arrived via Korea in the year 538. Initially, Buddhism was highly politicized in Japan, and many temples were militarized.
Medit on so ate fresh me eats Yet the staff acknowledge that, just as many people might feel uncomfortable going to a temple, they may feel the same way about taking advantage of the services at Tera Café. But that’s OK— the Buddhist services are available, but people are also welcome to simply sit, relax and enjoy a cup of coffee or something delicious from the menu. The ultimate aim is that Tera (which means “temple” in Japanese) may serve as a spiritual refuge for people, just as community temples once were. The menu at Tera Café offers a variety of light dishes and snacks, such as grilled mackerel, assorted tempura and fried octopus, as well as pickles and edamame. Everything on the menu is intended to be good for both the body and soul: there is an emphasis on using clean and healthy ingredients, with dishes designed to nourish your spirit and aid in digestion. For those who
While many Japanese only practise Buddhist customs for funerals, it is also common for families to have small altars in their homes. Many monks in Japan have other jobs, and many are business owners like those at Tera Café.
are looking for something truly traditional, Tera Café also offers vegetarian set menus based on the customary dietary restrictions of Buddhist monks. These meals have four essential elements: a boiled dish (like rice), a grilled dish, a salad of chopped vegetables and a palate cleanser such as Japanese soup. For those looking to discover Buddhism through a more interactive experience, Tera Café also offers lectures and workshops, with some English assistance, to help people get in touch with the traditional aspects of Buddhism and the life of a Buddhist monk. In addition to one-on-one consultations, you can sign up for daily workshops to make your own Buddhist prayer bracelet, practise writing the sutras, or listen to talks given by monks about their personal experiences and gain insights into their customs and lifestyle.
Tera Café
Located a three-minute walk from Daikanyama Station on the Tokyu Toyoko Line. tera-cafe.com (Japanese language only) TEL: 03-6455-3276 Ebisu-nishi 1-33-15, EN Daikanyama Bldg. 1F, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo OPEN HOURS Daily 11 am–10 pm
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
25
From Tokyo
Nikko & Edo Wonderland
1 Enjoy easy access to Edo Wonderland, a location that is difficult for individual travellers to access. The tour travels via from Nikko Toshogu Shrine. 2 This theme park features the authentic, centuries-old atmosphere of the Edo period. Visitors can watch ninja shows, oiran shows and more. 3 An English-speaking guide accompanies the tour by bus until Nikko Toshogu Shrine. After sightseeing at the shrine, visitors are free to explore Edo Wonderland without the guide.
TOUR BASIC INFORMATION Departure city: Tokyo Visits: Nikko Duration: Approx. 12 hours Admission to Nikko Toshogu Shrine, Englishspeaking guide, other admission fees and transportation costs included in the tour.
PRICE
199
CAD $
*Price is for the month of September 2016. *Price may fluctuate monthly based on exchange rate.
HOW TO PURCHASE Reservations can be made by either telephone or email. Please contact JTB International (Canada) Ltd. at Phone: 416-367-5824 | Toll-free: 1-800-268-5942 | Email: jtbtoronto@jtbi.com | Website: www.jtb.ca
I T I N E R A RY 7:30
Pick-up Service
Edo Wonderland
This tour can be joined from various meeting points mainly located at major hotels throughout Tokyo.
9:00
Enjoy seeing special oiran shows (oiran were courtesans in Japan), ninja shows and a replica of an old Edo town.
Hamamatsucho Bus Terminal
Depart from Hamamatsucho Bus Terminal and head to Nikko by bus. (Metropolitan Expressway, Tohoku Expressway and Nikko Utsunomiya Road.)
*The guide will not accompany the participants. *Lunch is not included.
160 min
©JNTO
Tour the UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its lavish decorations and ornate details. This 400-year-old shrine houses the remains of the Edo period’s founder, Ieyasu Tokugawa. Enjoy seeing the traditional beauty of the main hall, as well as the many Important Cultural Properties on display here. *Please note that due to major repair and restoration work, the sleeping cat carving, three monkeys carving and part or all of Yomeimon Gate will not be visible at Toshogu Shrine.
After sightseeing at Nikko Toshogu Shrine, please make your way to Fujiya Kanko Centre on foot.
17:15
Tobu Dial Bus to Kinugawa–Onsen
18:26
Kinugawa–Onsen Station
5
All photos ©JTB Sunrise Tour unless otherwise noted.
Nikko Toshogu Shrine
min
13:15/14:45
Fujiya Kanko Centre
Travel via Tobu Limited Express Kinu.
You will have 100 minutes or 180 minutes at Edo Wonderland depending on shuttle bus schedule.
130 min
A free shuttle bus to Edo Wonderland.
20:30
40
min
*Admission to Nikko Toshogu Shrine, admission to Nikko Edomura, bus fare to Kinugawa-Onsen Station, and Tobu Limited Express Kinu train fare are included in the booking price. The itinerary and tickets will be given to participants on the tour day.
Tobu Asakusa Station
Tour ends upon arrival. Please head to your next destination on your own from Asakusa Station.
For more information, please contact JTB International at 1-800-268-5942 (toll-free) or email at jtbtoronto@jtbi.com
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
27
What’s happening?
September 2016 Events musician and a professor at the Nihon University College of Art graduate school in Tokyo.
Come Together with Isshin Daiko Saturday, October 1, 2 pm and 8 pm | $20 Al Green Theatre (750 Spadina Ave., Toronto) More info: www.isshindaiko.ca > Toronto-based Japanese drumming group Isshin Daiko celebrates its 20th anniversary with two concerts! The concerts will feature Isshin members past and present, renowned taiko drummer Kiyoshi Nagata and friends, and special guests Muhtadi and The World Drummers for a unique collaboration. Come together with us to celebrate the sights, sounds and spirit of Japanese music!
Other Sailor Moon: A JPOP and KPOP Themed Dance Party
Guitar Wolf North American Tour Japanese “JET” rock band Guitar Wolf will come to Toronto on September 6! Their North American tour titled Yojyouhan Strikes Back, featuring their 12th original new album T-Rex From a Tiny Space Yojyouhan (in Japanese, yojyouhan means small room with only four and half tatami mattresses), will hit up 21 cities including Toronto and Montreal as their Canadian venues. Catch the Wolf and enjoy their jet-roaring sound. This is a 19+ event.
Tuesday, September 6, 8:30 pm | $20 | Horseshoe Tavern (370 Queen St. W., Toronto) More info: www.guitarwolf.net
Sunday, September 4, 10 pm | $5 | Sneaky Dee’s Concert Venue (431 College St., Toronto) | More info: sneaky-dees.com > The perfect blend of nostalgia and pop music! This Fan Expo afterparty is thrown at the Sneaky Dee’s Concert Venue with Sailor Moon playing on the projector. You are encouraged to “dress for the party” and there will be themed prizes for the best cosplayers! This is a 19+ event.
Kimono Discovery in Toronto: WA!i WA!i JAPAN
Exhibitions A Third Gender: Beautiful Youths in Japanese Prints Until Sunday, November 27 | Adults $17, Students and Seniors $15.50, Children $14 | Royal Ontario Museum (100 Queen’s Park, Toronto) | More info: www.rom.on.ca/en/exhibitions-galleries/exhibitions > Wakashu, a third gender created in olden-day Japan, played a distinct social and sexual role 400 years ago. These male youths, who looked different from both women and adult men, were the objects of sexual desire for both genders. This featured exhibition, A Third Gender, explores the complex system of sexual desire and social expectation from 1603 to 1868 in Edo Japan. Let this exhibit’s stunning woodblock prints, paintings, illustrated books, kimono and armour tell you Japan’s story in the history of human sexuality and invite you to think differently about gender and sexuality.
Film JCCC Movie Night: Miss Hokusai Thursday, September 15, 7 pm Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre (6 Garamond 28
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
Ct., Toronto) | More info: jccc.on.ca > Directed by Keiichi Hara, and the winner of the Satoshi Kon Award for best animated feature film at Montreal’s 2015 Fantasia International Film Festival, Miss Hokusai is being featured in JCCC’s September Movie Night. The movie tells the story of O-ei, the determined, unwavering 23-year-old daughter of a wandering ukiyo-e artist during the Edo period. Canadian author Katherine Govier, whose work has retold the story of O-ei, will be present to give a reading from her novel and conduct a discussion about O-ei’s life. This event is free but donations will be gratefully accepted.
Performances
Saturday, September 10, 12:30 pm–6 pm | General $15, Children under 12 are free | Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre (6 Garamond Ct., Toronto) | More info: bit.ly/2aA0hDD > A one-of-a-kind event celebrating the kimono and its culture. With the theme of “wai-wai” (a sound of excitement), the event will display a number of impeccable cultural talents in Japanese dance and music, along with a cosplay and kimono fashion show. There will also be booths set up that will let you experience kimono, Japanese hairstyling and many more of the arts that make Japan a special place. Takarabune, a professional dance and entertainment troupe, will be performing their world-renowned “Awa-odori”: a traditional dance with 400 years of history.
JSS Piano Duo Charity Concert
Pokémon Go Tournament Toronto
Saturday, September 24, 7 pm | $50 | Glenn Gould Studio (250 Front St. W., Toronto) | More info: 416-385-9200 > On this rare occasion, Japanese Social Services will be holding its first ever charity event featuring the renowned Japanese husband and wife pianists, Kikuo Watanabe and Etsuko Terada. Mr. Watanabe was born out of a prominent family full of musical talent, and was awarded the prestigious Sibelius medal, while Ms. Terada is an international
Saturday, September 24, 12 pm–6 pm High Park (873 Bloor St. W., Toronto) > Possibly the greatest fan-organized event in the world! The Pokémon Go Tournament Toronto will take place in High Park, simultaneously with other tournaments arranged in other major cities. The participants can dress in the colour of their team— Team Instinct, Mystic or Valor—and the ones with the best outfits will be selected to win prizes! The event is free of charge and open to everyone.
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
29
Talking Japan in Toronto
By Yumi Nishio Interview
Atsushi Ogata Lasso-swinging filmmaker Ogata has been capturing attention with his cross-cultural sketch comedy series, Yukata Cowboy.
F
ilmmaker Atsushi Ogata is standing at the entrance of the Toronto hotel where he is staying during the third annual T.O. WebFest. Wearing a yukata (Japanese summer kimono), cowboy hat and boots, and with a lasso in his hands, it’s no surprise that Ogata has some passersby turning their heads. Ogata is a film director, video artist, screenwriter, actor and comedian whose latest creation is Yukata Cowboy. This web series has earned awards at numerous international web festivals in Europe, North America and Asia for its twisted but universal humour. In the series, Ogata himself acts as the title character. He tries to blend into every place he visits, but he is so good at it that he inevitably causes some humorous confusion. He is the most mistaken man in the world!
the title logo and the opening animation. While I do most of the filming myself, when I visit film festivals, I sometimes ask the other filmmakers to film me [laughs]. BB: I hope you have met people who you can work with here in Toronto. Have you found something worth filming in our town? Actually, I haven’t walked around much yet. BB: The character also exposes funny cultural differences. Are the episodes based on your own experiences? Some episodes are a little exaggerated but mostly, yes, they come from my own experiences. In season one, I have an episode called “American Accent,” about an incident which actually happened with my then-roommate. She came out for the screening and was quite surprised [laughs]. She was portrayed by a porcelain doll, not an actual actor!
BB: OK, then let’s get out of here and I will show you around a bit. Maybe start with the famous TORONTO sign? Yukata Cowboy might want to lasso it! www.yukatacowboy.com
BB: I found your use of props very interesting! Where do you get your props and how do you decide on using them?
Bento Box: Your web series is about blending into other cultures—and, looking at you, you’re a person whose ethnic background is hard to guess…. Ogata: I get that a lot. Yukata Cowboy was born because of that.
30
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
I film the series at home. So, when I need costumes or props, I just go downstairs, where there’s lots of interesting stuff that my parents collected from around the world. I began using whatever I could find there. Sometimes what I do find is not what I’m looking for, but that adds a humorous touch and I usually think of a way to make use of it. BB: Do you film, edit and release the episodes online all by yourself? I do have people who help me, such as my producer Sian Evans and Ben Hillman, who designed
You can get a signed copy of the “Unofficial Guide to Yukata Cowboy” bilingual book and a T-shirt! Go to page 35.
Atsushi Ogata Since graduating from Harvard University and MIT, Ogata has worked in the U.S., Holland, Germany and Japan. He appeared weekly as a comedian on VARA Dutch national TV for three years. Ogata has directed Eternally Yours, an award-winning short film, Trick or Treat: I LOVE America!, a web series with Japanese YouTuber Megwin TV, and Cast Me If You Can, a theatrically released feature-length comedy.
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
31
Hit the books
By M Crowson Books
Red girls in changing times Red Girls
More by
The Legend of the Akakuchibas
Kazuki Sakuraba
by Kazuki
GOSICK Vol. 1
Sakuraba
Strong women run a powerful family from the shadows in this supernaturally tinged saga of Japan from postwar times to today.
Author info
Kazuki Sakuraba’s early Gosick light novels were bestsellers and her adult fiction is acclaimed throughout Japan. Red Girls won the Mystery Writers of Japan Award in 2007 and Watashi no Otoko won the Naoki Prize for popular fiction in 2008. Jocelyne Allen is a Japanese translator based in Toronto, Canada, after a decade in Japan. Her recent translations include Toh EnJoe’s “Silverpoint” in the collection Ruptured Fiction(s) of the Earthquake, Shigeru Mizuki’s Onward Towards Our Noble Deaths and Yoshihiro Tatsumi’s Fallen Words.
Just after the end of the Second World War, a baby named Manyo is abandoned by mysterious outlanders at the edge of a village in Tottori Prefecture. Illiterate and clairvoyant, the girl is adopted by a kind-hearted couple and lives a quiet and diligent life with few friends, until everyone is shocked when she’s hand-picked as a bride for the powerful Akakuchibas, a family that runs the local steelworks factory, which is crucial to the town’s livelihood. She raises a strange brood of children who live—and often die, tragically—in a mansion in the “red above,” making decisions that trickle down to the common folk in the “black below.” Manyo’s only grandchild, Toko, eagerly absorbs the family stories, never questioning Manyo’s reliability until, on her deathbed, Toko’s grandmother confesses to being a murderer. So begins the narrator’s journey in Kazuki Sakuraba’s Red Girls: The Legend of the Akakuchibas. By foregrounding Manyo’s confession, the book promises mystery and intrigue, but the who’d-shedo-it-to mystery takes a long backseat to a saga of women narrating their lives through half a century of tumultuous social change. Men play a necessary but minor role in the story, while the true captains of the Akakuchiba ship are its matriarchs. The 32
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
book is divided into three parts: part I is Manyo’s story, part II is the story of Manyo’s oldest daughter, Kemari, and part III is about Toko, who delves through her family history in order to discover who her grandmother killed, and why. Manyo’s story is the most fantastical. It’s peppered with her eerie premonitions, a series of painful births and deaths, and the constant, roly-poly figure of Tatsu, the cheerful mother-in-law who insists on giving Manyo’s children peculiar names: Namida (“tear”), Kemari (“hairball”), Kaban (“bag”) and Kodoku (“solitude”). Kemari’s story is the most action-packed. A rebellious daughter with unparalleled strength, the adolescent Kemari becomes the legendary leader of a violent biker gang, until unforeseen circumstances cause her to give up the delinquent life and become a wildly popular manga artist, her profits supporting the family as times change and Akakuchiba Steelworks gradually becomes less viable. Kemari’s star burns fiercely and winks out suddenly when Toko is only nine years old. As a young woman, Toko admits to having no super-
This international bestseller is a modern twist on Holmes and Watson— pairing Victorique, a wizened young girl with doll-like looks, with her eager-toplease sidekick, study-abroad student Kazuya Kujo.
powers or wild adventures of her own: “I was a regular girl. Which is perhaps exactly why I was drawn to the tales of the Akakuchiba women. They had a glittering past, a history; they were my roots. When I thought about them, I felt a certain worth in myself too.” As a novel, Red Girls’ worth also lies in reading the familiar stages of Japanese history through a rural, multigenerational, female lens, especially since they’re so often viewed through the eyes of the urban salaryman. Sometimes the social commentary maps on a little too easily—Manyo represents Japan’s postwar transition, Kemari the student rebellions of the ’60s, Toko the precarious, postbubble youth, insecure and underemployed— but even when the message feels a bit didactic it’s still a worthy mission, and translator Jocelyne Allen brings out the story’s idiosyncrasies with little clues, like elongated vowels, funky nicknames and contemporary slang. And perhaps the ordinary Toko (written with the characters for “eyes” and “child”) isn’t so ordinary once she can see history through a matriarchal lens, a vision created by a female author and amplified again in English by a woman translator.
www.bentoboxmag.ca
SEPTEMBER 2016
33
Exploring Japanese sports
By D’arcy Mulligan
ON THE
BALL
Japan on ice: Hockey in the Far East
While Toronto hosts the World Cup of Hockey this fall, another contest will be taking place across the Pacific…. On September 10, the puck will drop in Hachinohe and the 14th season of the Asia League Ice Hockey (ALIH) will have had its Japanese home opener. The ALIH, the top professional league in Asia, was founded in 2003 in order to replace the Japan Ice Hockey League, which was having financial trouble, and the Korea Ice Hockey League, which had folded. Currently, the league has nine teams. Four of those teams are based in Japan with the rest of the league being spread out across South Korea, China and Russia. Since the inception of the ALIH the Japanese teams have dominated the league, winning or sharing the title in all but two seasons. The Nippon Paper Cranes have been the team to beat as they have won four ALIH championships. However, hockey in Japan is much more than what goes on in their top pro league. While Japanese hockey is not well-known by the rest of the world, and is actually often overlooked by the media within Japan, hockey has been played in an organized fashion in Japan since at least the 1920s. Indeed, one team in the ALIH, the Oji Eagles, was actually founded in 1925. However, this hockey tradition has not yet led to a high degree of popularity for the sport. The average attendance for an ALIH
34
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
game is just under 1,000 people. While hockey lags in attendance behind baseball, soccer and the martial arts, it is slowly but surely winning converts. According to the International Ice Hockey Federation, Japan has over 19,000 registered hockey players, which places it as the country with the ninth-most hockey players in the world (more than countries like Denmark, Kazakhstan, Belarus and Slovakia). However, this participation has not yet led to success for the Japanese national team. The Japanese national men’s hockey team have a long tradition as they played in their first world championship in 1930, where they finished sixth. That, unfortunately, has been their high water mark. They last played in the Olympics in 1998, where they finished 13th, and have not played at the World Championships since 2004. Currently, the Japanese men’s team is ranked as the 20th-best team in the world. They have performed much better at the Asian Winter Games where they have won gold medals in two out of the last three tournaments and have never finished lower than second in the history of the event. The Japanese national women’s hockey team, like the Japanese national women’s soccer team, have outperformed their male counterparts. “Smile Japan,” as the women’s team is nicknamed, finished eighth at the Sochi Olympics in 2014 and finished eighth again at the 2016 World Championships. These quality performances have led the Japanese women’s team to a current world ranking of seventh, which is their highest ranking to date. Interestingly, though Smile Japan have consistently performed well on the world stage they have
yet to win a gold medal at the Asian Games, ending each of the last five tournaments with a second-place finish. With high hockey participation rates, it is expected that the quality of Japanese players, and the popularity of the sport overall, will rise in coming years. Already, players like Ryo Hashimoto are seeing time at NHL training camps and 12-year-old Aito Iguchi is being lauded as a future NHLer. In a few years’ time the Land of the Rising Sun might just see the dawn break on a bright hockey scene.
7KH ÀUVW DQG WKH only Though Japan’s future looks bright in terms of NHL prospects, to date, goalie Yutaka Fukufuji is the only Japanese citizen to play in the NHL (Ryan O’Marra, though born in Tokyo, never pursued Japanese citizenship). Fukufuji played in the Japan Ice Hockey League before being drafted by the Los Angeles Kings in 2004, becoming only the second Japanese player ever drafted by the NHL (the first being Hiroyuki Miura in 1992). After being drafted, Fukufuji toiled in the North American minor leagues for nearly three seasons before he was called up to the NHL during the 2006–2007 season. He played four games for the Los Angeles Kings that year, his only games in the NHL, and has since played in the Netherlands and Denmark. He currently plies his trade for the Nikko Icebucks in the Asia League.
D’arcy Mulligan has written about video games for gaming websites, sports for his blog, and cats anywhere and everywhere he can. He once spent his entire life’s savings on beer at the ball game. It was a very good pint.
G O Let's
llearn earn
N I H O N G O
easy JJapanese apanese
What to say at the movies Going to the movies is a fun way to spend time with friends and is a great idea for a date! Here are a few sentences that can be used when going to the movies.
Intermediate Have you already seen this movie?
There are items (like tickets; flat objects) where a counter needs to be used. In the case of movie tickets the counter “mai” (枚) is used.
この映画、 もう観ましたか？ KonoȔga mȬ mimashitaka?
Beginner “Mͻ” is an adverb that can be added before a verb, when you want to ask if someone has done something already. E.g.: Mͻ gohanwo tabemashitaka? (もうご飯を食べましたか？ Have you already eaten a meal?)
The best way to watch movies is in the theatre! やっぱり映画は映画館で 観るに限る！
I would like to buy two adult tickets for [Title] please. [映画タイトル] の 大人2枚ください。 [Title] no otona nimai kudasai.
Yappari Ȕgawa Ȕgakande miruni kagiru!
Advanced “Kagiru” originally means “to limit,” but in this sentence it identifies the best thing to do. “As for X, Y is the best thing to do....” E.g.: Natsuwa bͧ runi kagiru. (夏はビールに限る。Nothing beats a glass of beer in summer.)
Compiled by Amber Chambers and Kozumi Miya-Woolford. Brought to you by the Toronto Japanese Language School | www.tjls.ca | @tjlsca | principal@tjls.ca
www.bentoboxmag.ca
Illustration by Reiko Ema
SEPTEMBER 2016
35
［日本でのいち日］
One day in Jap n By Justine Wong
Yukata
Summer delicacies and hanabi by the sea. Summer in Japan may bring the damp, rainy season, but it’s also a time for aji-sai (hydrangeas) lining the streets, hanabi (fireworks) and endless festivals. Walking through Tokyo in summer, you quickly get used to the cicada’s song, the tinkling of fuurin (wind chimes) in the breeze and the feeling of a pleasantly full stomach. One of my favourite experiences so far was when the rain cleared and everyone headed down to Kamakura for one of the first hanabi displays of the year.
36
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
My companions and I start by visiting nearby Enoshima Island to enjoy their specialty, Shirasudon, for lunch. Shirasu is a delicate “white bait” that is boiled and sun-dried, then served on a bed of warm rice with some grated ginger and negi. As the meal arrives, my mouth waters at the translucent little fish in my bowl. The dish is nice and light, perfect for a long summer day. After lunch, we head back to Kamakura. Young girls are adorned in beautiful yukata (summer kimonos) of pink, blue and yellow hues as they walk down roads lined with street food, vendors hollering to entice people to their stalls, the smell of deep-fried cheese sticks and hot potatoes wafting in the air. The delicious offerings continue on the way down to the water, with grilled fish on sticks and mitarashi dango (grilled rice-flour balls, skewered and covered with a sweet soy-sauce glaze) being sold outside the shops. The sky begins to darken around 7 pm, and everyone shuffles onto the beach to get a seat for the fireworks, as ships line up in the far waters. The first firework fills the sky with the shape of a flower, the smell of smoke lingers in the air and I am overwhelmed with feelings that I am fortunate
to be part of this—a tradition of the people and culture that I am surrounded by. At the height of the show there’s a growing pause between each display, and a nearby bar plays music that works against the beat of the fireworks. The timing is perfect. And this is what my first summer in Japan feels like.
Shirasudon
Justine Wong is a full-time freelance illustrator living and working in Tokyo, originally from Toronto. She is also the creator of the project “21 Days in Japan: An Illustrative Study on Japanese Cuisine,” where she gained funding to produce 100 paintings of her meals throughout Japan.
a Naom. i’ss baristtt e art Talentaed be utiful la
Staff
Savoury t and rseaauts: curried do sage roll nuts s!
Ariel Litteljohn
The taste of home
Ariel is often on the hun A t for tasty bites, w ther it be a flavourful whe tomato found at a local farmer’s mar ket, peppered pomfret at a restaurant in Mumbai or takoyaki devoured on a small street in Osa O ka. Her accompanim ents of choice are arr her husband, David, and their young d ughters, Freya and Lum dau en.
Matching his comfort-food menu, the name of Chef Koki’s restaurant honours the Sakawa River that runs through his childhood town.
S
akawa Coffee is a cosy 18-seater spot near Jones Avenue on the Danforth, serving up traditional Japanese comfort foods that the owner and chef, Mr. Koki Oguchi, grew up eating. Sakawa, open since July 2, has already established some patron-favourite dishes. Among these are the deep-fried curry donut, the Japanese-style Doria (cream sauce with cheese on ketchup rice), the Hamburg Rice and the Omurice.
The Hamburg Rice is basically a dense, “Westernstyle” (yoshoku) hamburger made of approximately equal parts seasoned beef and pork, topped with a slice of cheddar cheese, smothered in homemade gravy sauce and served with a sunny-side-up egg, roast potatoes, peppers and rice. The rice lends itself perfectly to sopping up the delicious gravy. It is definitely a winning alternative to the hamburgerbun combination!
38
SEPTEMBER 2016
www.bentoboxmag.ca
The Omurice is apparently a favourite of Japanese children, and one can easily understand why. A thin, delicate egg omelette is wrapped around chicken-fried rice, with special gravy served on top. This dish comes with a side salad and miso soup, making for a filling and delicious meal. The rich stewed tomato gravy sauce that tops both the Hamburg Rice and the Omurice deserves an honourable mention. When I mention how delicious it is, Chef Koki seems to take this as a special compliment. He then comes to sit with me and explains the importance of sauces in Japanese cooking. He explains how, sometimes, you “don’t see the bottom of the pot” as ingredients are constantly added (sometimes for up to 150 years!). Chefs would guard their sauces during wartime, and if a student studied with a great chef, it would not be uncommon for the chef to gift the
student some of his special sauce for the student to use in his or her own restaurant. Sakawa Coffee, as the name would suggest, is not all about the food. Chef Koki picks up his beans from Social Coffee in Richmond Hill, and the selections are impressive. I enjoy a beautiful latte made by barista Naomi, from Social Coffee’s Farmer’s Collective dark roast. Chef Koki also makes small-batch sweets such as Japanese cheesecakes and chocolate fudgy cake—a perfectly sweet accompaniment to my visit.
Sakawa Coffee 867 Danforth Ave., Toronto | 647-347-4932 "* \Ê/ÕiÃq-Õ Ê Ê> q{Ê« ]ÊxÊ« q£äÊ« ÊUÊ ÊV Ãi`Ê