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Japanese Culture | Hot Spots | Products

| Food TM

Oct. 2017

No. 32 FREE www.bentoboxmag.ca

Matcha: History in a cup

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Contents October 2017 No.32

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Decadent tarts in a flaky crust

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Feature: Matcha

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Restaurant: Pablo cheese tarts

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Ingredient: Sanma

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Sake: Yamatan Masamune brewery

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Travel: Fukui

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Tokyo guide: Watery fun in the city

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Only in Japan: Celebrating the harvest moon

26

Movie: Yoko the Cherry Blossom

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:[HɈ 7PJR 9LZ[H\YHU[! Ryus Noodle Bar

EDITOR’S NOTE

Nina Hoeschele

Time for a spot of tea What do you know about matcha? This green tea powder has gotten rather popular around our city, where it shows up in everything from matcha lattes to matcha-flavoured desserts. But there’s more to matcha than meets the eye. In this month’s feature, we’re taking a look at the history of this rich drink—and showing you the many ways to enjoy it right at home!

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Editors Nina Hoeschele, Amanda Plyley, Yumi Nishio Editorial coordinators Nina Hoeschele, Yumi Nishio Writers Amanda Plyley, Amanda Taylor, Ariel Litteljohn, James Heron, Lee Anthony Durbacz, M Crowson, Michelle Chou, Nicholas Jones, Sylvester Pilgrim Assistant Writer Akiko Fujii, Designers Chieko Watanabe, Midori Yamamoto 7OV[VNYHWOLY Kazu Maruyama Advertisement & marketing Kazu Maruyama 7\ISPZOLY Kazu Maruyama

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ISSN 2368-9153

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Fe a ture

Matcha: History in a cup Matcha is a traditional Japanese green tea powder that was originally used for tea ceremonies. But what is it about matcha that makes it so special?

近 頃 人 気 の 抹 茶 に つ い て 知 ろ う

By Momo Yoshida

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atcha is everywhere—you can find this beloved green tea powder not only in Japan but also all over the world. Here in Toronto, matcha takes many forms—you might have even tasted it as matcha ice cream or a matcha latte. Far from just a trend, however, this special tea has a long history in Japan.

Tea was introduced to Japan 800 years ago by student monks who studied abroad in China. At that time, only the noble class were tea drinkers; ordinary people could not even HɈVYK [V I\` P[ 4H[JOH P[ZLSM ^HZ VYPNPUH[LK by a monk named Eisai in 1191: he introduced the way of making tea by mixing tea powder with hot water. The technique was then ZWYLHK I` 1\RČŹ 4\YH[H HUK 1ČŹČŹ ;HRLUV and Sen-no-Rikyu advanced the traditional tea ceremony that is so well-known in Japan today. :V ^OH[ PZ TH[JOH L_HJ[S`& ;OL KLĂ„UP[PVU VM matcha according to the Japan Tea Central Public Interest Incorporated Association is “ground tencha tea leaves which are grown in shade and dried without rubbing.â€?

Tencha is an important keyword for matcha: it refers to tea leaves that are covered for 20 days before being harvested. This method is called “ooishita� and it was originally done to protect the tea leaves from frost damage.

However, the process of covering the tea leaves also improved tencha’s colour, taste HUK ÅH]V\Y

Matcha powder 抚 čŒś

Tencha 碞 čŒś

Matcha is deep green in colour. If you find tea powder that is yellow-green in colour, it is likely sencha powder, not matcha powder.

Tea leaves that are grown in the shade.

Tencha is the tea variety behind matcha, which is made from powdered tencha leaves.

Matcha is also more expensive because so much time and effort goes into the growing process. Real, high-quality matcha can become quite costly.

Matcha is available for a range of prices, however—how expensive or cheap the matcha is depends on the way it has been JYVWWLK I` OHUK VY \ZPUN ZJPZZVYZ HUK the cutting positions of the leaves. Matcha made from tencha using only new leaves will be expensive, for instance. In general, NVVK TH[JOH OHZ L_JLSSLU[ Ă…H]V\Y YPJO [HZ[L and a beautiful colour. Each tea shop makes HU LɈVY[ [V VɈLY HSS VM [OLZL MHJ[VYZ PU [OLPY matcha.

Expensive matcha is most likely sold and advertised as “tea ceremony grade.� However, the most important thing is to buy your matcha from shops that understand the value of matcha. Never buy sencha powder that is sold as tea-ceremony-grade matcha.

ceremony-grade matcha for matcha lattes or baking. Whatever the grade of the matcha you purchase, it is important that the raw material is tencha. For example, matcha for cooking is bitterer than tea-ceremonygrade matcha, but the bitterness of TH[JOH PZ KPɈLYLU[ MYVT [OH[ VM sencha ha powder. Matcha bitterness ness does not leave a bad d aftertaste. The better-quality r-quality matcha has less bitterness, letting you enjoy njoy a creamy and mild taste.

Kyoto The Kyoto region is Japan’s largest producer of matcha.

Also, be advised that expensive matcha is not necessarily the best for every purpose.

For instance, it is not worth it to use tea-

;OL \THTP JVTWVULU[ VM TH[JOHÂťZ Ă…H]V\Y has to do with the presence of some amino acids such as theanine. If tea leaves grow under the sun, this constituent will change to catechin which has a bitter taste. The ooishita method blocks the sunlight and prevents catechin from developing, thus producing the YPJO Ă…H]V\Y VM [OL [LUJOH SLH]LZ Gyokuro is another type of tea that is also grown by the ooishita method. You could say it is a sister of matcha.)

Even though they look similar, you cannot refer to ground sencha powder as matcha—they HYL WYVK\JLK KPɈLYLU[S` :LUJOH WV^KLY also has a more bitter taste—try doing a taste [LZ[ HUK `V\ÂťSS X\PJRS` UV[PJL [OL KPɈLYLUJL www.bentoboxmag.ca

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f we’re talking about matcha, we need to talk about tea ceremony.

Tea ceremony (wabi-cha) was started I` 1\Rȏ 4\YH[H HUK WVW\SHYPaLK I` :LU UV 9PR`\ ;OPZ YP[\HS PZ H ^H` VM ZLY]PUN H J\W VM [LH [V N\LZ[Z MVSSV^PUN L_HJ[PUN Y\SLZ HUK PZ H ^H` [V L_[LUK OVZWP[HSP[` [V [LH JLYLTVU` WHY[PJPWHU[Z /PZ[VYPJHSS` [LH ceremony was once a necessary accom WSPZOTLU[ MVY H ZHT\YHP HUK P[ OHK H \ZLM\S WSHJL PU WVSP[PJZ ( [LH JLYLTVU` LTWOHZPaLZ SLZZVUZ VM WVSP[LULZZ THUULYZ HUK V[OLY PTWVY[HU[ things in life. It’s also a rich and intricate JYHM[¡L_WLY[Z PU [LH JLYLTVU` OH]L [V RLLW learning throughout their lifetimes.

I would like to introduce some of my MH]V\YP[L ^VYKZ MYVT [OVZL SLZZVUZ Ichigo Ichie: Treasure every encounter. This means that each L_WLYPLUJL VM H WHY[PJ\SHY TVTLU[ ^PSS IL SVZ[ ^OLU P[Z MPUPZOLK¡L]LY`[OPUN OHWWLUZ VUS` VUJL PU H SPML[PTL ZV enjoy that time carefully.

Wa (ĺ&#x2019;&#x152; ! /HYTVU` Kei (ć&#x2022;Ź ! 9LZWLJ[ Sei (é?&#x2122;): Purity Jyaku (ĺŻ&#x201A;): Tranquility ;OLYL HYL ZL]LYHS ZJOVVSZ PU [LH JLYLTVU`¡ [OL THPU VULZ HYL 6TV[L :LURL <YH :LURL HUK 4\ZOHRVOQP :LURL ;OL THUULYZ SLHYULK ZSPNO[S` ]HY` KLWLUKPUN VU [OL ZJOVVSZ but all of them originally started from the [LHJOPUN VM :LU UV 9PR`\ <YH :LURL THRLZ H WHY[PJ\SHY LÉ&#x2C6;VY[ [V ZWYLHK [LH JLYLTVU` V]LYZLHZ ;OLYL HYL THU` V]LYZLHZ IYHUJO LZ VM [OL <YH :LURL ZJOVVS HUK ^L OH]L HU OCTOBER 2017

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NYHU[Z `V\ H ]HYPL[` VM U\[YP[PVUHS ILULĂ&#x201E;[Z ;OL OLHS[O LÉ&#x2C6;LJ[Z VM TH[JOH HYL HZ MVSSV^Z! HU[P O`WLY[LUZPVU JHUJLY WYL]LU[PVU HU[P HNPUN WYL]LU[PUN IHK IYLH[O HJ[P]H[PUN JYHUPHS ULY]LZ PTWYV]PUN V]LYHSS PTT\UP[` HUK HU HU[PIHJ[LYPHS LÉ&#x2C6;LJ[

Matcha was once only used for tea ceremony, but nowadays itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to enjoy a casual taste of this fine Japanese product

Wakei Seijyaku: Mentality of the tea ceremony. ;OPZ JVUJLW[ ZOV^Z [OL OVZ[ [OL PTWVY[HUJL VM [OL JLYLTVU` MVY ZVV[OPUN [OLPY N\LZ[Z HUK OLSWPUN [OLT HWWYLJPH[L [OL moment.

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<YH :LURL NH[OLYPUN NYV\W OLYL PU ;VYVU[V ;OL NYV\W HPTZ [V ZOHYL [OPZ ILH\[PM\S J\S ture with the world. Nowadays tea ceremony WYHJ[P[PVULYZ HYL WYLKVTPUHU[S` ^VTLU ^OPJO PZ H YLĂ&#x2026;LJ[PVU VM OPZ[VY`! [OL 1HWHULZL NV]LYUTLU[ \ZLK [LH JLYLTVU` [V LK\JH[L women after the war.

The matcha-making process As was mentioned earlier, matcha is made MYVT [LUJOH SLH]LZ -PYZ[ [OL WYVK\JLY J\[Z [LUJOH SLH]LZ PU[V ZTHSS WPLJLZ ZPM[Z [OL SLH]LZ HUK ZVY[Z [OLT ;OLU [OL SLH]LZ HYL left out to dry. After drying, they are sorted HNHPU HUK NYV\UK ^P[O H [LH NYPUKPUN TPSS (Cha-usu ,HJO TPSS WYVK\JLZ HU H]LYHNL VM N VM TH[JOH WV^KLY WLY OV\Y :PUJL TH[JOH NVLZ [OYV\NO [OPZ L_[LUZP]L WYVJLZZ P[ ^HZ VUJL ZH]LK [V IL \ZLK VUS` MVY [LH JLYLTVU` /V^L]LY [OL \UPX\L [HZ[L HUK Ă&#x2026;H]V\Y OHZ H[[YHJ[LK H[[LU[PVU L]LU MYVT WLVWSL ^OV KVUÂť[ RUV^ [LH JLYLTVU` HUK nowadays itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to enjoy a casual taste of matchaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;for instance, at one of the matcha cafĂŠs that are becoming increasingly common.

And not only is matcha tasty, but the fact that [OL KYPUR JVU[HPUZ [OL M\SS SLH]LZ TLHUZ P[ HSZV

4` [LH JLYLTVU` [LHJOLY ^OV PZ HYV\UK 90 years old, is like a testament to the ILULĂ&#x201E;[Z VM TH[JOH¡ZOL OHZ ILH\[PM\S skin and is always energetic.

Do you feel like drinking matcha now? I ^PSS L_WSHPU OV^ [V THRL H NYLH[ J\W VM TH[JOH /V[[LY ^H[LY IYPUNZ V\[ IL[[LY Ă&#x2026;H]V\Y OV^L]LY ^H[LY [OH[ PZ [VV OV[ tends to make tea bitterer because of the teaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s catechin. But water that is only KLNYLLZ *LSZP\Z ^PSS UV[ IYPUN V\[ [OL Ă&#x2026;H]V\Y HZ T\JO HUK ^PSS UV[ WYVK\JL LUV\NO MVHT -PUHSS` TH[JOH YLX\PYLZ TP_PUN ^P[O H ZWLJPHSPaLK Z[PYYLY" [OPZ WYVJLZZ HSZV OLSWZ [V SV^LY [OL [LTWLYH[\YL ILMVYL `V\ KYPUR ;OL PKLHS [LTWLYH[\YL MVY THRPUN `V\Y TH[JOH PZ KLNYLLZ *LSZP\Z HUK [OL ILZ[ [LTWLYH[\YL MVY KYPURPUN PZ KLNYLLZ 5V^ SL[ TL ZOHYL OV^ [V WLYMVYT H [LH ceremony with matcha. When doing a tea ceremony, there are two ways to make matcha. One is called Usu-cha (light tea), and the other one is called Koi-cha (thick tea). When learning the art of tea ceremony, one learns how to do Usu-cha Ă&#x201E;YZ[

How to make delicious Usu-cha: 1. -PYZ[ ^HYT \W H [LH ^OPZR I` W\[[PUN P[ PU OV[ ^H[LY [V ZVM[LU [OL [PWZ

Sen-no-Rikyu is considered to be the person who most influenced the “Way of Tea” (chanoyu, ZHKȬ or JOHKȬ in Japanese).

3. Pour hot water into the tea bowl—about 60ml, with a temperature of 70-80 degrees Celsius.

4. With a snap of the wrist, draw quick “W”s with the tea whisk. For the Ura Senke way, cover the surface of the tea with a ÄUL JVH[PUN VM MVHT ;OL TVYL MVHT `V\ produce, the milder your tea gets.

2. 7\[ [OL ÄS[LYLK TH[JOH WV^KLY PU [OL [LH ceremony bowl using a matcha teaspoon.

One teaspoon is about 1g. Two scoops (2g) will be the best amount. It is PTWVY[HU[ [OH[ TH[JOH WV^KLY PZ ÄS[LYLK before use to avoid lumpy tea.

For those who want to try Koi-cha, this variety uses double the amount of matcha powder ^P[O SLZZ ^H[LY ;OLYLMVYL [OL ÄULZ[ NYHKL matcha powder should be used here (because you are tasting it much more intensely). This is like the cappuccino of matcha.

How to make delicious Koi-cha: 1. Warm up a tea whisk by putting it in hot water to soften the tips.

2. 7\[ [OL ÄS[LYLK TH[JOH WV^KLY PU [OL [LH ceremony bowl using a matcha teaspoon.

Four scoops (about 4g) will be the best amount.

3. Pour hot water into the tea bowl—about 15ml, with a temperature of 90 degrees Celsius, a bit higher than when making Usu-cha.

4. Mix it with the tea whisk for about 60 seconds.

How to enjoy matcha Try following the formal tea ceremony drinking method when w h e n yyou o u enjoy e n j o y yyour our m matcha. atcha. M Make a k e yyour o u r home h o m e into i n t o a sacred s a c r e d space! space!

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Hold: Take a bowl with your right hand and place it on your left hand. While picking up the bowl with your left hand, place your right hand lightly on the side.

2

Turn: Turn the bowl twice from the position of 2 o’clock to 4 o’clock in order to avoid the front of the bowl.

3

Drink: Enjoy it carefully while being thankful for this opportunity to taste matcha.

It’s not a written rule, but NLULYHSS` [Y` [V ÄUPZO [OL [LH within three to four sips.

4

Wipe: After drinking, clean VɈ [OL SPW VM [OL [LH IV^S and turn its front forwards again by turning back twice from the position of 4 o’clock to 2 o’clock.

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Tea ceremony utensils The type of equipment used depends on the type of tea ceremony.

The basic utensils that are used in tea ceremony are:

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4 2

1 Chawan Tea bowl*: For the preparation and drinking of matcha. For beginners, it is important to select one that is slightly heavy for stability and so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to hold on to. * This tea bowl is made by Secret Tea Time. www.

secretteatime.com

2

Chasen Tea whisk: Made of a bamboo segment where the bottom two inches form the handle, and the top part is split into many tines.

3

Chashaku Tea scoop: Used to scoop matcha from the tea caddy into the tea bowl; one scoop is approximately 1g.

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& Futaoki 4 Hishaku Hishaku: A bamboo ladle used to transfer

water from the kettle into the tea bowl.

Futaoki: A rest for the hishaku or the lid of the kettle.

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Natsume Tea caddy: Used to contain matcha during the tea ceremony. They are usually made of lacquered wood.

6 Kensui Wastewater container*: To hold any water you need to discard during the tea ceremony. * Made by Chris Sora

10 7 Mizusashi Cold water container*: These containers can be made of ceramic or wood. * Made by Secret Tea Time

8 Fukusa A square of silk used to purify and clean certain utensils during the tea ceremony.

9 Kaishi A stack of white washi paper used as an eating surface for sweets or to wipe tea bowls.

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Chagama A cast iron kettle (often shaped like a cauldron) used to heat and contain water for tea.

Japanese confectionery A few sweets make the perfect accompaniment to a tea ceremony.

0U [OL [LH JLYLTVU` N\LZ[Z HYL VÉ&#x2C6;LYLK Z^LL[Z before having their tea. This is to make the tea TVYL LUQV`HISL HUK KLSPJPV\Z <Z\HSS` JVUMLJ[PVULY` PZ LH[LU ILMVYL KYPURPUN [LH ;OLYL HYL ]HYPV\Z RPUKZ VM Z^LL[Z VÉ&#x2C6;LYLK ^P[O TH[JOH PU [YHKP[PVUHS tea ceremony, notable not only for their taste but HSZV MVY [OLPY KLSPJH[L ILH\[` HUK JLSLIYH[PVU VM [OL four seasons.

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1. /PNHZOP! +Y` JVUMLJ[PVULY` 4HKL ^P[O 1HWHULZL WYLTP\T Ã&#x201E;UL NYHPU Z\NHY JHSSLK wasanbon. They are VM[LU VÉ&#x2C6;LYLK H[ <Z\ JOH JLYLTVUPLZ 7SHJL VUL PU `V\Y TV\[O HUK SL[ P[ TLS[ ILMVYL KYPURPUN `V\Y [LH 2&3. 6TVNHZOP! 6É&#x2C6;LYLK H[ 2VP JOH JLYLTVUPLZ ;OLZL ILH\[PM\S Z^LL[Z HYL HKHW[LK [V [OL ZLHZVU MVY PUZ[HUJL ^P[O ZLHZVUHS Ã&#x2026;V^LYZ HUK VIQLJ[Z 4. +HPM\R\! :[PJR` YPJL JHRLZ 0 YLJVTTLUK [Y`PUN KHPM\R\ [V HJJVTWHU` JHZ\HS TH[JOH [LH [PTL ;OPZ PZ H [YHKP[PVUHS 1HWHULZL Z^LL[ JVU[HPUPUN YLK ILHU WHZ[L *Confectionery pictures 2 and 3 were created by Shiho Sakamoto, a Japanese Wagashi Artist. www.facebook.com/wagashi.shiwon Picture 4 was created by Natural Japaneats. www.naturaljapaneats.ca

Modern twist on matcha

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not just tea â&#x20AC;&#x201D; try homemade matcha lattes, matcha cake and more. There are endless ways to enjoy this flavourful powder. >OLU [OPURPUN HIV\[ TH[JOH Ã&#x2026;H]V\YLK Z^LL[Z HUK JVÉ&#x2C6;LL ZOVWZ» TH[JOH SH[[LZ THU` WLVWSL TPNO[ [OPUR [OH[ TH[JOH PZ Z^LL[ )\[ [OL WYPTHY` characteristic of matcha is its bitterness. This is ^OH[ THRLZ TH[JOH NYLH[ MVY KLZZLY[Z! HKKPUN TH[JOH HSSV^Z MVY [OL OHYTVU` VM [OL IP[[LYULZZ HUK YLHZVUHISL Z^LL[ULZZ NP]PUN TH[JOH KLZZLY[Z H TLSSV^ HUK \UPX\L [HZ[L

1 2 3 4

4H[JOH WYLWHYH[PVU HUK [LH JLYLTVU` OH]L ILLU OHUKLK KV^U MVY O\UKYLKZ VM `LHYZ HUK HSVUN ^P[O [OLZL TVKLYU [^PZ[Z IV[O JVU[PU\L [V MHZJPUH[L WLVWSL HSS V]LY [OL ^VYSK /LYL HYL H ML^ [PWZ [V enjoy matcha to the fullest: 1. (Z `V\ TPNO[ OH]L [YPLK PU H JVÉ&#x2C6;LL ZOVW TH[JOH JHU HSZV IL LUQV`LK HZ H JVSK KYPUR 2. 0UZ[LHK VM NL[[PUN 1HWHULZL [YHKP[PVUHS JVUMLJ[PVULY` `V\ JHU TH[JO `V\Y [LH ^P[O ZVTL >LZ[LYU HUK ,\YVWLHU Z[`SL Z^LL[Z Z\JO HZ THJHYVUZ 3. Try baking a NYLLU [LH JHRL YVSS *VVRPUN ^P[O TH[JOH WV^KLY PZ HSZV H NYLH[ ^H` [V LUQV` [OL HYVTH 4. Making a TH[JOH SH[[L H[ OVTL PZ H T\Z[ [Y` ILJH\ZL P[ HSSV^Z `V\ [V THRL P[ Q\Z[ HZ Z[YVUN VY TPSK HZ `V\»K SPRL /LYL PZ OV^ `V\ THRL H KLSPJPV\Z TH[JOH SH[[L! 4P_ N VM TH[JOH PU[V TS VM OV[ ^H[LY HIV\[ KLNYLLZ *LSZP\Z PZ YLJVTTLUKLK ;OLU TP_ PU TS VM ^HYT TPSR ZV` TPSR VY HSTVUK TPSR (KK Z\NHY HZ KLZPYLK

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Hot Spot | Pablo Canada

Golden-crusted Japanese cheese tarts The Little Tokyo strip just got a bit more decadent.

7RURQWRQLDQV DUH ñRFNLQJ WR WKLV QHZO\ opened Japanese bakery for its famous cheese tarts and their PHOW LQ \RXU PRXWK ñDN\ FUXVWV

By Lee Anthony Durbacz

Hungry for more? Let’s dig in!

When visiting Bay and Dundas during the day, you’ll now see a lineup of people in front of a newly established storefront. Pablo, a popular Japanese cheese tart shop, officially opened its first North American store near the intersection on August 18.

impressed with his passion.” Hugo is the youngest of Pablo’s managers around the globe, according to Sakimoto, and clearly an eager addition to the team. You know the products will be good when the manager himself knows the correct way to do the job.

At the opening ceremony, Masamitsu Sakimoto, founder and CEO of Pablo Japan, talked about opening the first location on this side of the Pacific. “It has been a bit difficult opening a Canadian store as the regulations are a bit tight. We are not able to bring our Japanese ingredients here to Canada.

However, that’s OK—it is actually great news. We are making our regular cheese tarts as close as possible to those we make in Japan. And we are using this as a learning opportunity to create a ‘Toronto unique’ tart in the future. The Canadian manager (vice CEO) Hugo came to Japan and learned how to make the tart from scratch. It is rare, even unheard of, for managers to actually get their hands dirty at this level, and I am very

Currently, Pablo serves up its famous cheese tarts in original, matcha and chocolate flavours. The original cheese tart flavour is reminiscent of egg tarts, creamy and rich. The golden crust is worthy of note for its light flakiness and delicate taste. There has even been debate as to whether the crust is the best part (at least, in this office!). Whereas many tart makers seem to treat the crust as an afterthought, Pablo tart crusts taste like they have been baked with extra care. They are fine examples of the high quality expected of Japanese products.

The tarts are worth trying for the melt-inyour-mouth crust alone. For the ultimate experience, Pablo also offers a premium cheese tart that has a caramelized top layer, along with sundaes and smoothies. And for those who just want a small taste, a mini tart will soon be added to the menu.

Freshly baked cheese tarts

Eat-in space

Try the original ($14.99), matcha with red bean paste inside ($16.99) or chocolate ($16.99). There is also the "premium" cheese tart with a bruleéd top layer ($24.99). Whole tarts are about 15 cm in diameter.

*\Z[VTLYZ JHU YLSH_ HUK LUQV` ZWLJPHS JVќLLZ smoothies and sundaes in the café. Individual slices of cheese tart are also available for purchase.

Pablo Canada 114 Dundas St. W., Toronto 416-591-8868 | pablocanada.com OPEN: Daily 10 am –10 pm

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Ingredient | Sanma

By Amanda Plyley

塩焼きで食べる日本の秋の味覚。 きで食べる日本の秋の味覚。 大根おろしを添えてどうぞ。 おろしを添えてどうぞ。

forked tail and bright blue skin patches—is quite the hot commodity.

SANMA 秋刀魚

【サンマ】

A fish for (f)all Break out the grill! Seafood fans will love this seasonal swordSPRL ÄZO [OH[ THRLZ HU HUU\HS HWWLHYHUJL Ah, October. Temperatures have begun to drop and so have the leaves off the trees.

The air is crisp, scarves are emerging from the backs of closets and pumpkins are once again enjoying their short-lived time in the spotlight. But in Japan there is another food that dominates fall, and it’s one you may not be familiar with just yet: sanma. Literally translating to “autumn sword fish,” sanma is the Japanese name for Pacific saury, otherwise known as mackerel pike. Named for its peak season (fall) and physical appearance (that of

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silver swords or knives up to 28 cm in length), sanma is an autumnal staple in Japanese, Korean, Chinese and Russian cuisines. Regarded as a humble, everyday meal in Japan for the better part of the 20th century, sanma has since increased in price and exploded in popularity. In fact, today’s sales are so lucrative that 20,000 tonnes of the fall-friendly fish are caught from the Pacific off the east coast of Japan every year, and commercial breeding is becoming increasingly profitable.

Sanma—with its long silvery body, small

So let’s talk about this fishy feast: what makes it so great? For starters, preparation is wonderfully straightforward. Sanma is most often salted, grilled and served whole—not even the head or the bones are removed.

This method is called sanma no shioyaki and it’s a simple dish that packs a lot of flavour, not to mention protein and brain-boosting omega-3 essential fatty acids. The meat is oily, deliciously fatty and slightly sweet while the intestines (which, like the rest of the fish, are included on the plate!) give it a vaguely bitter taste—something sanma snackers swear by as part of the experience. You’ll find sanma commonly garnished with daikon oroshi (grated daikon radish) and drizzled with soy sauce, lime and lemon before being served with rice and miso soup to form a warm, well-rounded meal that’s the perfect contrast for cool weather. There is still some creativity to be had in the ways that sanma is readied and enjoyed, though. Sanma-zushi (mackerel pike sushi) has made a name for itself as a delicacy along the east coast of Mie Prefecture, not far from Osaka. Sushi restaurants in the region are known to pickle sanma in vinegar and salt before arranging it on a bed of vinegar-soaked rice and serving it deep-fried, with the bones removed. And then there’s the bogata (whole fish) sushi variety of sanma, which involves stuffing a whole fish with rice before chopping it into a sushilike roll. Suffice it to say that we’re not talking about your typical plate of fish and chips!

If you’re planning to visit Japan as the days grow colder and the leaves change colour, be sure to try this much-loved dish. You’ll be hard-pressed to find this fish served in North America—unless you decide to crack open a can of pet food!

www.bentoboxmag.ca

OCTOBER 2017

13

Sake | Yamatan Masamune brewery

爽やかな酸味が心地よい食中酒は ぬる燗で楽しみたい奥深い味わい。

Seaside sake

By Amanda Taylor

minimum 40%. To get an idea of the level of quality, Yamatan Masamune’s ginjo sake was the sake of choice for Japanese airline ANA’s first-class section in 2014.

Yamatan Masamune is famous for a number of award-winning sakes. Its ginjo sake has numerous first place prizes in the WGO Fine Sake Awards, and it’s the brewery’s bestseller. It has a light, dry and refreshing taste with a crisp flavour attained through fermentation at low temperatures.

山丹政宗吟醸酒 Uniquely refreshing Award-winning sake brewery Yamatan Masamune takes inspiration from the peaceful sea views of Ehime Prefecture.

Y

amatan Masamune brewery aims to evoke a sense of tranquil relaxation with its floral-tinged brews. The brewery faces the charming islands of the Seto Inland Sea, and its sake blends attempt to mirror that same serene view with clean and refreshing tastes.

Based in Ehime Prefecture, the brewery prides itself on a tradition of high-quality sake dating as far back as the Edo period.

Its commitment to traditional methods of brewing—for example using earthenware pots instead of the more common stainless steel—is the secret behind its awardwinning sakes.

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Sake started to become prevalent in Japan about 2,500 years ago, when the cultivation of rice became a staple of the Japanese economy. Though sake is sometimes known as “rice wine” the process of making sake is closer to that of making beer, and the way sake is brewed determines its unique taste. Sake’s grade, also known as seimaibuai, is determined by how much the rice is polished. Polishing the rice removes the outer layer to reveal the starch underneath. The more the rice is polished, the higher the sake grade.

Sake comes in different varieties with the lowest being futsu-shu sake or “table sake,” which you might find at an inexpensive izakaya. The rice used in table sake is often polished very lightly or not at all. The next level, honjozo sake, requires the rice to be polished down by at least 30%. The taste is more refined, and you might find this sake at more expensive izakaya restaurants and higher-end sushi houses. Ginjo sake is at the top of the sake spectrum, with the rice polished down by at

The Shimanami honjozo sake has a more light and sweet flavour. And the Shizukuhime, or “Shizuku princess” sake, won first place at the 29th annual National Spirits Competition. It has a light and fruity flavour. This brewery’s sakes are made with matsuyama mii—a premium variety of rice native to Ehime Prefecture.

Yamatan Masamune brewery’s premium sakes offer a uniquely refreshing flavour inspired by the seaside.

www.bentoboxmag.ca

OCTOBER 2017

15

Travel | Fukui

By Sylvester Pilgrim

FUKUI

緑豊かな山々と変化に富んだ海岸線が美しい街。

Enjoy the view of the ocean from the spectacular cliffs of Tojinbo along the Japan Sea.

Located along a dramatic coastline of the Japan Sea, the beautiful Fukui Prefecture encompasses an area of 4,189 square kilometres and has a population of approximately 803,000. For travellers starting out in ;VR`V [YH]LS [PTL MYVT [OL JP[` PU[V -\R\P PZ about 3.5 hours using a combination of the shinkansen (bullet train) and JR (local Japan 9HPS SPULZ ;OL LU[PYL YPKL PZ VM JV\YZL M\SS` covered by a Japan Rail Pass which can only be purchased overseas. As with most prefectures in the country, the capital city bears the name Fukui as well. Many of the attractions of this coastal region however are not located in the capital but can easily be accessed by local train or bus.

One such attraction situated north of the city PZ ;VQPUIV 0[ PZ H Y\NNLK JSPMM MVYTH[PVU [OH[

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runs for about a kilometre along the coastline and reaches as high as 30 metres above the sea. It offers a spectacular view of the ocean with its yawning chasms and heart-stopping vertical drops.

At the base of one of the rock faces is a dock where you can take a boat ride and experience [OL JYHNZ MYVT H KPќLYLU[ ]HU[HNL WVPU[ ;V\YPZ[Z ÅVJR MYVT HSS V]LY [OL ^VYSK [V LUQV` [OPZ amazing natural water-carved wonder.

Another interesting site to add to your itinerary when visiting Fukui is Mikuni Sunset Beach. Its crystal-clear waters are warm, inviting and great for swimming—or, if you prefer, you can try your OHUK H[ ÄZOPUN Vќ [OL JLTLU[ WPLY [OH[ Y\UZ MVY H ML^ O\UKYLK TL[YLZ V\[ [V ZLH ;OL HYLH P[ZLSM is littered with cafés, restaurants and traditional

Beautiful views and vibrant entertainments

Gomadofu A different kind of tofu served in a most amazing way.

Japanese hotels and from some of them you can enjoy the splendour of the setting sun.

From May to October you can participate in yoga on the sands at various times throughout the weekend. At night the beach is crowded with a vibrant night market and nightlife which H[ [PTLZ HYL HJJVTWHUPLK I` HTHaPUN ÄYL^VYRZ displays. For those who decide to visit in the winter, you might not be able to enjoy swimTPUN VY ÄZOPUN I\[ `V\ JHU JLY[HPUS` RLLW warm at the famous Mikuni Onsen (hot spring).

Of course, in any season you will be able to indulge in an abundance of fresh seafood.

This part of Japan is not without its family attractions as well. For those visiting with smaller children, there is Takefu Chrysanthemum Doll Flower Park. This venue features

many entertainments for the little travellers in your group. You will find everything from Ferris wheels to Viking ships to Thomas the Tank Engine rides and much more. The park also has many scheduled exhibitions so there is always something new to experience.

On the culinary side—and apart from the seafood—another local delicacy is gomadofu, which is tofu made of sesame. However, in Fukui they add their own special twist to the dish: the tofu is served with a miso sauce.

The combination of the light tofu with the sweet miso is delicious either eaten alone or as a topping on rice. >OL[OLY `V\»YL JVTPUN MVY [OL Z[\UUPUN JSPќZ the sandy beaches or the fresh seafood, Fukui PZ H KLÄUP[L T\Z[ ^OLU `V\ ]PZP[ 1HWHU

FUKUI 【福井】

Fukui is located a 3.5-hour train ride from Tokyo along the coast of the Japan Sea.

www.bentoboxmag.ca

OCTOBER 2017

17

WATERWORKS and TOKYO

By Amanda Taylor

Manmade beaches, soothing cruises with spectacular city views, and a luxurious rooftop hot spring and spa: Tokyo is full of spots for wet and watery fun.

Whether you’re looking for a place to cool down on a hot summer day or a way to stay cosy and warm in winter, Tokyo’s “watering holes” are some of the main attractions of the city all year round.

Though there are beaches an hour or two outside of the city, Tokyo’s manmade island, Odaiba, comes complete with a small stretch of sandy shore. Unfortunately, swimming is not allowed, but you can still wade in the water.

However, the pretty view of the celebrated Rainbow Bridge over the water is the beach’s true selling point. It’s especially romantic when the bridge is lit up at night. The nearby shopping complex has many food options to choose from once you work up an appetite strolling along the sand.

Beaches are a great way to cool off, but Tokyo’s hot springs are the ultimate way to get steamy.

The Spa La Qua complex uses water pumped from the Koishikawa hot springs. The water is © TCVB

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enriched with sodium chloride and not only is it good for circulation, it leaves skin soft and smooth. There are indoor and outdoor baths as well as a sauna and relaxation room that offers amazing views of Toyko’s colourful cityscape. There’s even a package that allows for overnight stays.

And many cruise ships sail along Tokyo’s famous Sumida River. You can take a sightseeing cruise, a “booze cruise” which supplies unlimited drinks for a few hours, or even cruises that follow a particular holiday theme.

The design of the popular cruise ships Himoko and Hotaluna is so unique and futuristic that the view of the ships themselves is almost as cool as the view from the water.

If a cruise isn’t your speed, there’s white-water rafting on the Tama River in Okutama, about an hour and a half outside of the city centre by train. The thrill of rushing down a river surrounded by fresh air and mountain scenery

is a nice change of pace from the city crowds.

There are half-day and full-day courses, and beginners are welcome too.

Tokyo’s various watery wonderlands are some of the city’s best places to visit.

tokyotokyo.jp Official Tokyo Travel Guide

gotokyo.org Visit the Tokyo Brand website to plan your next trip and connect with the many exciting experiences this city has to offer.

TO K YO P U LS ES WI T H I D EAS T HAT C O N N ECT THE OLD WITH THE NEW

gotok yo.org

Only in Japan |Celebrating the harvest moon

By M Crowson

Moon viewing ,_JS\ZP]L JV\Y[S` NH[OLYPUN YV^K` IVH[ WHY[` VY ZLKH[L MHTPS` L]LU[& Otsukimi is all of the above. 秋晴れの空に輝く十五夜の月。夜の涼しい風を感じながらお月見しよう。 rabbit pounding mochi on the moon, a rabbit that can be found on many autumn-themed ceramics. Or a tea ceremony practitioner might join his cha-no-yu friends, who gather annually for a special ceremony to honour the autumn moon. Or a couple who lives near a beautiful lake might lie back in a boat and enjoy the TVVU»Z JSLHY YLÅLJ[PVU PU [OL Z[PSS ^H[LY (Z SVUN as the night is clear and the moon is bright, otsukimi can be enjoyed in many ways.

Illustration by Chieko Watanabe

It’s autumn, which means it’s otsukimi (お月見) time in Japan. Otsukimi is a respectful way to say “moon viewing,” though it can also be shortened to tsukimi PM `V\ KYVW [OL OVUVYPÄJ ¸V¹ WYLÄ_ ;OL tradition of honouring the harvest moon was imported and adapted from China in the Heian WLYPVK HUK OHZ [HRLU THU` KPќLYLU[ MVYTZ over the course of Japanese history. These KH`Z [OL M\SS HUK ^H_PUN TVVU HYL JLSLIYH[LK during September and October.

Moon-viewing parties are quieter and more WYP]H[L [OHU [OLPY ÅV^LY ]PL^PUN WHY[` JV\ZPUZ but you can bet that most otsukimi will include

a few traditional seasonal objects, which vary by region. Each year, families in the Tokyo area provide dango Z^LL[ ^OP[L YPJL ÅV\Y K\TWSPUNZ ^OPJO HYL VќLYLK \W [V [OL TVVU PU a beautiful, pyramid-shaped stack. Some other JVTTVU VќLYPUNZ HYL Z^LL[ WV[H[VLZ ILHUZ and chestnuts. Many houses also decorate their alcoves with susuki, feathery pampas NYHZZ HSVUN ^P[O V[OLY WLHR H\[\TU ÅV^LYZ There are many ways to celebrate otsukimi.

A mother might sit with her children out on the veranda, admiring the bright, beautiful moon.

She might help them look for the legendary

Back in the Heian period, the emperor and his lords and ladies enjoyed leisurely boating and picnicking as they admired the moon, sipped drinks, munched treats and composed traditional tanka poems in honour of the occasion.

During the samurai era, these celebrations crossed class boundaries and the parties became a bit rowdy, with revellers partying late into the evening, or sometimes even overnight. Moon viewing was everywhere, from urban waterways to military castles, which were often built with special moon-viewing pavilions on their grounds.

The party continued until 1868, when political changes swept in with the Meiji Restoration, and the wild tsukimi celebrations were shut down.

These days, tsukimi is a more private, subdued HќHPY I\[ 1HWHULZL Z[PSS WH` [YPI\[L [V [OL TVVU and search for the rabbit who, according to legend, was transported to space as a reward for saving the life of a god who came to earth for a little visit long, long ago. Now each year, we take a little time to admire the moon and all its stories.

Moon manners Otsukimi comes in many forms, so there are many ways to do it right. To make the most VM `V\Y ÄYZ[ JLSLIYH[PVU we suggest trying out [OL MVSSV^PUN [PWZ!

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DO

DO NOT

DO

try writing a tanka poem.

otsukimi alone.

eat tsukimi dango.

Honour your tsukimi with some poetry. It’s only 5-7-5-7-7 syllables!

Find a family member, friend or Try the delicate, plain white ones, loved one, otherwise your poems or maybe those served with red might get a little emo. bean paste.

www.bentoboxmag.ca

OCTOBER 2017

21

1-Day Snow Monkey Tour

Round-trip from Tokyo

1 Visit the Jigokudani Monkey Park, a world-famous park where Japanese macaques can be seen up close as they freely soak in hot springs. The hot spring baths here are exclusively for wild monkeys, the only baths of their kind in the world. Enjoy seeing the monkeys’ charming expressions while they relax in the hot springs.

2 Visit the Zenko-ji Temple, a designated National Treasure built roughly 1,400 years ago. Along with the Todai-ji Temple’s Great Buddha Hall, it is one of Japan’s most remarkable wooden structures.

3 Just a Shinkansen ride from Tokyo Station! An interpreter guide will meet participants at Nagano Station.

TOUR BASIC INFORMATION Departure city: Tokyo ¦ Visits: Nagano Tour: November 24, 2017 – March 30, 2018 (Monday, Wednesday and Friday only) Duration: Approx. 13 Hours Includes: English-speaking guide, lunch, other admission fees and transportation costs included in the tour

PRICE

CAD $

330

All photos ©JNTO

HOW TO PURCHASE

*Price is valid for month of October 2017 *Price may fluctuate monthly due to change in exchange rate

Reservations can be made by either telephone or email. Please contact JTB International (Canada) Ltd. at Phone: 416-367-5824 | Toll-free: 1-800-268-5942 | Email: jtbtoronto@jtbi.com | Website: www.jtb.ca

ITINERARY Go from Tokyo Station (or Ueno Station) to Zenko-ji Daimon 06:50- Go from Tokyo Station (or Ueno Station) 07:40 to Nagano Station (120 min)

11:40

Depart from Zenkoji Station

40

min

Head to the parking lot of the Roman Museum (no entry to the museum) from which visitors walk to the Jigokudani Monkey Park.

Board a shinkansen on your own from Tokyo Station.

08:30- Arrive at Nagano Station 09:20 Meet with an interpreter guide on the platform at Nagano Station.

13:20 10:10

Visit Zenko-ji Temple

Walk to Jigokudani Monkey Park

This is a hard walking tour covering about 40 minutes of walking each way between the Roman Museum parking lot and Jigokudani Monkey Park.

Depart from Nagano Station to Zenko-ji Daimon

09:40

12:30

40

Jigokudani Monkey Park

14:10

50

min

Go from Roman Museum Parking Lot to Tokyo Station

min

Visit Zenko-ji Temple, which boasts 1,400 years of rich history. Its main hall is a designated national treasure.

15:00

11:00

Japanese-style Lunch The meal for lunch includes soba (buckwheat) noodles, a Nagano specialty.

As traces of buckwheat flour may be present in the entire shop, those with buckwheat allergies should not enter.

40

min

Depart from 40 Jigokudani Monkey Park min

Visit the Jigokudani Monkey Park, a world-famous park where Japanese macaques can be seen up close as they freely soak in hot springs.

This is the only place in the world where wild Japanese macaques can be seen bathing in their own designated hot spring. Enjoy seeing the amusing expressions of the monkeys up close as they warm themselves in a relaxing hot spring bath.

Leave for Nagano Station

16:20- Depart from Nagano Station 17:15 Head to Tokyo Station via shinkansen.

18:00- Arrive at Tokyo Station 19:00 Tour ends at Tokyo Station.

*Please note that special accommodations for those with trouble walking will not be provided. Small children will not be allowed to participate in the tour. The walking path may be frozen and slippery if there is snow. Please wear winter boots or other non-slip footwear. The temperature in the area in winter averages about -1°C. Please dress accordingly. **The behaviour of wild monkeys is unpredictable. The park might be closed to visitors in case the monkeys do not come down to the park from the mountains. The tour may be cancelled on the day before tour departure in such cases. A full refund will be issued if the tour is cancelled.

For more information, please contact JTB International at 1-800-268-5942 (toll-free) or email at jtbtoronto@jtbi.com www.bentoboxmag.ca

OCTOBER 2017

23

Local Event | Explore Tohoku and Tokyo!

By Walter Muschenheim

Meet your new guides to Japan!

Toronto’s own YouTube personalities Sylvia Jade and Istiana Bestari go on the adventure of a lifetime.

o

n the evening of September 7, a night of delicious food, entertainment and discovery was topped with the announcement of a new YouTube series dedicated to exploring Tohoku and Tokyo.

Explore Tohoku and Tokyo! invited influencers and members of the Toronto Japanese community to sample the best Tohoku and Tokyo have to offer. The event also served to announce an exciting project in collaboration with two rising YouTube stars from Toronto. The pair snagged an amazing opportunity to go on a new adventure when Air Canada, JNTO and Tokyo Tourism teamed up to whisk them away on a tour of Japan.

Local vloggers Sylvia Jade and Istiana Bestari filmed their adventures as they discovered the treasures of Tokyo and Tohoku. In addition to travel, Sylvia and Istiana’s videos cover a wide range of topics, including beauty, fashion, food and life in Toronto. Istiana’s focus is DIY décor, fashion and beauty care. She says that she aims to inspire young women with travel and creative projects. Sylvia is a food and fashion junkie with a background in marketing whose enthusiasm and humour are infectious.

Air Canada, JNTO and Tokyo Tourism felt the two girls were the perfect team to show Canadians around Tokyo and the Tohoku region. The organizers pulled out all the stops to make sure that Sylvia and Istiana experienced everything these ]PIYHU[ WHY[Z VM 1HWHU OH]L [V VќLY Check out these vloggers’ YouTube channels to see their VIP trip, which begins with a nonstop trip from Toronto to Tokyo on one of Air Canada’s new Dreamliner jets. After a day cramming in as many Tokyo adventures as they can, it’s off to Tohoku—an exciting part of Japan that is less familiar to the West. Japan’s

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diversity is on display as Sylvia and Istiana’s adventure continues, and their videos are full of discoveries as the vloggers explore everything the area has to offer.

In Tohoku, the vloggers take in the sights and sounds of the regional festivals of Sansa Odori, Kanto Matsuri and Nebuta Matsuri.

These ancient traditions are brought to vibrant life by talented locals and are a feast for the senses, with teams of dancers, amazing lantern parades and enormous floats carried by hundreds of volunteers.

Look for Sylvia and Istiana on YouTube to share in the excitement!

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OCTOBER 2017

25

Film focus | Yoko the Cherry Blossom

By James Heron

Harmony in bloom

Maverick director Gen Takahashiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gentle, earnest drama tells the true story of a manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s determined quest to create a universal symbol of peace.

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Masaaki gave away over 30,000 trees to countries around the world in his quixotic campaign to spread peace

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Yoko the Cherry Blossom PZ H ZTHSS \UKLYZ[H[LK HUK X\PL[S` TV]PUN Ã&#x201E;ST ^YP[[LU HUK KPYLJ[LK I` .LU ;HRHOHZOP ;HRHOHZOP PZ H [Y\L PUKLWLUKLU[ ^OVZL ^VYR JVUZPZ[LU[S` YLÃ&#x2026;LJ[Z H WYVMV\UK KPZ[Y\Z[ MVY 1HWHU»Z PUZ[P[\[PVUZ /PZ Confessions of a Dog PZ HU LWPJ PUKPJ[TLU[ VM WVSPJL JVYY\W[PVU ^OPSL The Court of Zeus X\LZ[PVUZ [OL L[OPJHSP[` VM [OL 1HWHULZL JV\Y[ Z`Z[LT ;OV\NO UV[ PTTLKPH[LS` HWWHYLU[ @VRV ZOHYLZ H ZPTPSHY [OLTL! [OL PUUVJLU[ JY\ZOLK I` H OLHY[SLZZ PTTVYHS PUZ[P[\[PVU PU [OPZ JHZL H NLULYH[PVU JHYLSLZZS` ZX\HUKLYLK PU [OL TPZN\PKLK W\YZ\P[ VM TPSP[HY` NSVY`

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G O Let's

llearn earn

N I H O N G O

easy JJapanese apanese

Celebrating Halloween Halloween may not be as widely celebrated in Japan as it is in countries like Canada or the U.S., but try these expressions at your next Halloween party with your Japanese friends.

Intermediate I love your costume! そのコスチューム、いいね！

Sometimes it is not clear what people try to dress up as. In that case this is a perfect sentence to start a conversation. If you want to say it politely it goes Nanno kasou desuka? ( なんの仮装ですか？). Just replace nano (なの ) with desuka (ですか ).

Sono kosuchȻmu iine!

Apparently that house is actually haunted. あの家は本当に 幽霊がでるらしいよ。 Anoiewa hontȬni yȻreiga derurashȟyo.

What are you dressed up as?

Beginner Iine ( いいね ) is a very versatile word to compliment almost anything. Simply add this word after the items that you want to compliment. E.g.: Kono sake iine! (このさけ、 いいね ! I like this sake!).

Advanced

何の仮装なの？ Nanno kasou nano?

When you tell people what you have heard or read, use plain form + rashii. E.g.: Ashitawa samukunaru rashͧi. (明日は寒くなるらしい。It seems like it is going to be cold tomorrow.)

Compiled by Michelle Chow and Kozumi Miya-Woolford. Brought to you by the Toronto Japanese Language School | www.tjls.ca | @tjlsca | info@tjls.ca

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FUJISAN RAMEN

on Queen

en is sweeett,, Taiwanese Ranamd back spicy and by popular dem

Staff

Ta new adndtan Dip’n Noo d ition to the wintle is a er menu

Nicholas Jones

Nicholas lived in a tiny fishing village in Hokkaido from 200 9 to 2011.

Ostensibly, he taught Eng lish, but he spent most of his tim e wrangling elementary students and frequenting their parents’ sush i restaurants.

He is currently on a que st to find Toronto’s best kara-ag e.

Ryus Noodle Bar is back!

The triumphant return of Toronto’s tastiest ramen.

f you’ve been waiting eagerly for the return of Ryus Noodle Bar like I have, your wait is over!

The restaurant, which is easily my favourite ramen joint in the city, has recently reopened across from Broadview subway station.

I

9`\Z OHZ HS^H`Z VќLYLK H ]HYPL[` VM VW[PVUZ MVY diverse diets. Now head chef Ryuichiro “Roy” Takahashi is taking his new location as inspiration to refocus the menu around chicken broth. While I sometimes find restaurants’ chicken-based offerings to be lighter than I would like, Ryus’ chicken broth has a deep \THTP ÅH]V\Y [OH[ JHU LHZPS` NV [VL [V [VL ^P[O the richest of pork broths.

When I visited the restaurant, Chef Roy prepared dishes that will feature on his new winter menu. The selection is themed HYV\UK ZWPJ` IV^SZ VќLYPUN J\Z[VTLYZ H SP[[SL

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extra warmth to get them through the coming Canadian winter.

Even if you’re not usually a fan of spice, I would still recommend the Taiwanese Ramen, a recipe made popular in the Japanese city of Nagoya.

It has a light, sweet broth, with a spiciness that PZ TVYL VM H ÅH]V\Y OP[ [OHU H [VUN\L ZPUNLPUN JOPSP L_WLYPLUJL 0 ^HZ HTHaLK I` OV^ ÅH]V\Yful the ground chicken was in this dish, and I quickly understood why this bowl is a Ryus fan favourite.

Next up on the heat scale is a new dish on the winter menu: the Tantan Dip’n Noodle. Ryus’ thicker noodles are dressed lightly with housemade chili oil and served separately with delicate white fungus, bamboo shoots, ground chicken and a soft-boiled egg. It is then a build-yourown ramen experience as you dip the noodles in

broth that starts with Roy’s original recipe tantan TPZV WHZ[L HUK MLH[\YLZ ÅH]V\YZ VM ZLZHTL HUK shrimp. The broth is slightly sweet but balanced by a faint sour edge, provided by rice vinegar.

And, for true lovers of spice, I’d recommend the Tan Tan Men. This is another fan favourite, and customers have been begging Roy to bring it back. The spicy chicken broth uses the same tantan miso paste as the dip, but with a more WYVTPULU[ ZOYPTW ÅH]V\Y >P[O OV^ [OPJR HUK creamy the broth was, I had to keep checking that it wasn’t tonkotsu. 0[»Z KLÄUP[LS` [OL RPUK VM ^HYT HUK ÄSSPUN JVTMVY[ MVVK [V NL[ `V\ [OYV\NO the depths of winter!

Ryus Noodle Bar 786 Broadview Ave., Toronto 647-344-9306 | www.ryusnoodlebar.com OPEN: Daily 11 am–10 pm