Japanese Culture | Hot Spots | Products
| Food TM
Dec. 2017
No. 34 FREE www.bentoboxmag.ca
The hot springs of Japan
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Contents December mber 2017 No.34
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Tasty fusion ion comforts
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Feature: e: The hot springs of Japan
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Restaurant: Black Bear Japanese Fusion
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Ingredient: Daredevil dining with fugu
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Sake: All Koji
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Travel: Magical Shirakawa-go
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Only in Japan: The most welcoming towel
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Book: The Silent Dead
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Local Event: /H[Z\TͻKL MVY [OL 5L^ @LHY
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Movie: Being Good
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:[HɈ 7PJR 9LZ[H\YHU[! Mye 2
EDITOR’S NOTE
5PUH /VLZJOLSL
Soak in some of Japan’s natural wonders With over 25,000 naturally occurring hot springs across Japan, relaxing in the steaming waters has become part of Japanese culture—and is a must-try activity if you’re planning a visit. In this month’s feature, we look at some of the most Z[\UUPUN OV[ ZWYPUNZ 1HWHU OHZ [V VќLY HUK NL[ PU[V [OL ÄULY WVPU[Z VM OV[ ZWYPUN etiquette. Happy bathing!
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Editors 5PUH /VLZJOLSL (THUKH 7S`SL` @\TP 5PZOPV Editorial coordinators 5PUH /VLZJOLSL @\TP 5PZOPV Writers Amanda Plyley, Amanda Taylor, Ariel Litteljohn, James Heron, M Crowson, 5PJOVSHZ 1VULZ, Sarah Dickson, Sylvester Pilgrim, Walter Muschenheim Designers *OPLRV >H[HUHIL 4PKVYP @HTHTV[V 7OV[VNYHWOLY Kazu Maruyama Advertisement & marketing Kazu Maruyama 7\ISPZOLY Kazu Maruyama
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Feat ure
The hot springs of Japan Hot springs are everywhere in Japan and bathing in them is part of Japanese culture. One simply cannot visit Japan without experiencing onsen bathing. By Ariel Litteljohn
J
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apan is situated in a volcanic zone, meaning that it is home to more than 25,000 naturally occurring mineral hot springs. With thousands of spa resort areas spread across Japan, each with numerous public baths and ryokan (traditional inns), hotels, bed and breakfasts, roten-buro (the more traditional outdoor baths), and indoor baths, it is understandable that onsen (hot springs) are part of the Japanese way of life. There are THU` ILULÄ[Z [V [OL OV[ ZWYPUNZ PUJS\KPUN YLSH_H[PVU HUK V[OLY WO`ZPJHS OLHS[O ILULÄ[Z·SPRL H IVVZ[ MVY [OL PTT\UL Z`Z[LT HUK H KLJYLHZL PU PUÅHTTH[PVU related conditions, skin conditions like dermatitis and various musculoskeletal conditions (balneotherapy, the use of bathing as a form of medical treatment, is widely practiced in Japan).
HZ JSLHY NYL` NYLLU HUK ISHJR HUK KPɈLYLU[ ^H[LYZ IVHZ[ KPɈLYLU[ OLHSPUN HUK [OLYHWL\[PJ WYVWLY[PLZ >OL[OLY `V\ WYLMLY [V ZVHR PU [OL YLSH_PUN ^H[LYZ ^OPSL LUQV`PUN Z[\UUPUN ]PL^Z VM 4[ -\QP [HRPUN PU [OL ZPNO[ VM H KYHTH[PJ YP]LY NVYNL S`PUN VU [OL ILHJO PU H OV[ ZHUK IH[O YLSH_PUN HM[LY H OHYK KH` VU [OL ZSVWLZ LUQV`PUN H I\Z` W\ISPJ IH[OPUN MHJPSP[` VY Q\Z[ PTTLYZPUN `V\YZLSM PU H TVYL WYP]H[L Y`VRHU IH[O [OLYL PZ HU VUZLU L_WLYPLUJL MVY Q\Z[ HIV\[ L]LY`IVK` [V LUQV`
Onsen resorts use water that comes from geothermally heated hot springs, and that ranges in temperature from 20 degrees C (68 F) to almost 100 C (211 F), with typical temperatures being in the (hot!) range of 40 to 44 C. Onsen waters also come in a wide variety of colours such
Given the sheer volume of onsen in Japan, it is impossible in an article of this size to make mention of all of them. The criteria for the onsen mentioned in this article are that they are all Meitou, meaning that they are all famous onsen with long histories.
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The symbol (at the top of this page) that looks like a steaming cauldron marks the presence of an onsen on both signs and on maps. Sometimes the simpler hiragana character ゆ (yu), understandable to younger children, is used.
©Kusatsu Onsen Tourism Association / ©JNTO
©Gunma prefecture / ©JNTO
Kusatsu Gunma
Kusatsu Onsen is one of the most famous hot ZWYPUN YLZVY[Z PU HSS VM 1HWHU 2\ZH[Z\ PZ ^LSS RUV^U MVY [OL OLHS[O ILULMP[Z VM P[Z ^H[LYZ·[OL` HYL VM L_JLW[PVUHS X\HSP[` ^P[O WV[LU[ HU[PIHJ[L rial and spiritual properties. The secret is the strong acidity of the spring water, which can be L_WLYPLUJLK ^P[O [OL agari-yu style of bath ing. The scenic Yubatake (hot water field) is the resort’s main source of spring water. The hot water is cooled down using large wooden paddles accompanied with folk songs and dance in a ^H[LY ILH[PUN WYVJLZZ RUV^U HZ Yumomi (pictured in the middle left photo). Kusatsu Onsen is also MHTV\Z MVY P[Z \UPX\L IH[OPUN TL[OVK VM jikan-yu [PTLK IH[OPUN·MVY [OYLL TPU\[LZ H[ ]LY` OPNO temperatures (48 degrees C!). ©Gunma prefecture / ©JNTO
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Beppu Oita Beppu Onsen is a group of hot springs in the city of Beppu, Oita Prefecture, on Japan’s Kyushu Island. There are eight distinct hot spring areas in Beppu Onsen, known as Beppu Hatto. What makes Beppu’s OV[ ZWYPUNZ [Y\S` \UPX\L PZ [OL ZOLLY volume of the spring water, second in the world only to Yellowstone National Park in the United States.
Photos: ©Promotion Airport Environment Improvement Foundation / ©JNTO
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The eight hot spring areas are: Beppu Onsen, closest to the town centre; Horita Onsen, a rustic hot spring resort; Hamawaki Onsen, the birthplace of the Beppu Onsen, HUK OVTL [V H TVKLYU T\S[P W\YWVZL health facility; Kankaiji Onsen, the hot spring with the most beautiful natural scenery; Kannawa Onsen, with narrow winding streets and steaming hot springs; Myoban Onsen H ZTHSS X\PL[ TV\U[HPU
resort with mud and milk baths, all with a distinctive strong sulphuric odor; Shibaseki Onsen, designated as a national health resort with its steam bath along a mountain stream; and Kamegawa Onsen, known for P[Z VWLU HPY ZHUK IH[OPUN ULHY [OL VJLHU as well as its rustic scenery. Sand bathing PZ VUL L_WLYPLUJL [OH[ `V\ ZOV\SK UV[ TPZZ out on if you visit the Beppu Onsen. After you shower and don the traditional yukata (light bathhouse coat), proceed to the beach where you will be buried up to your ULJR PU Z[LHTPUN OV[ ISHJR ZHUK (M[LY or so minutes, you emerge from the sand and shower off, reborn and reinvigorated. Also famous at the Beppu Onsen: eggs that are boiled in the spring water for the most delicious salty flavour!
Hakone Kanagawa
Onsen Etiquette
/HRVUL PZ PU 1HWHU»Z -\QP /HRVUL 0a\ National Park, in the southwestern part of Kanagawa. It is only a short (45 minutes by bullet train) and easily accessible trip away from bustling Tokyo, but the serene onsen YLZVY[ HUK THQLZ[PJ ]PL^Z VM 4[ -\QP [OH[ Hakone offers seem like a world apart from city life. The town of Hakone is a popular holiday YLZVY[ PU WHY[ ILJH\ZL VM P[Z WYV_PTP[` [V the big city, and it has been famous for its hot springs, nicknamed “Hakone Seventeen Spas,” for centuries.
Take it all off Guests must remove their clothes in the appropriate change room before entering the hot spring area. No swimsuits allowed! While some baths have become more welcoming of inked-up tourists, beware that many still frown upon tattoos, with their symbolic link to organized crime in Japan, and you should be prepared to cover up with a bandage or towel in the event that you are allowed entrance.
Rince off before going in
baths and accommodations. Many of the ryokan in the Hakone area open their baths to daytime visitors as well as paying guests. Outside of the Yumoto area, other popular hot spring resorts include Kowakudani, which offers both a water park area and more traditional hot spring bath area, and Sengokuhara ^P[O ]PL^Z VM 4[ -\QP MYVT the upscale Hakone Green Plaza hotel’s outdoor baths. Kai Hakone H OPNO KLZPNU Hoshino hotel resort and thermal spa on the banks of the Sukomo River, is a modern [HRL VU [OL TVYL [YHKP[PVUHS JV\U[Y` SPRL baths that can be found in Hakone.
Today, there are more than a dozen bubbling hot springs that provide water to the numerous bathhouses and ryokan in the Hakone region. Lake Ashinoko (Lake Ashi), ^OLYL 4[ -\QP JHU IL ZLLU [V^LYPUN PU [OL background, is the symbol of Hakone. There are a number of hot spring facilities lining the shores of mostly undeveloped Lake (ZOP ^OLYL IH[OLYZ JHU YLSH_ ^OPSL LUQV`PUN stunning views. Yumoto, at the entrance to the Hakone area, near Odawara, is perhaps Hakone’s most famous hot spring, with WHY[PJ\SHYS` OPNO X\HSP[` ^H[LYZ HUK U\TLYV\Z ©Yasufumi Nishi / ©JNTO
Before entering the baths, guests must clean their bodies, preferably with soap and warm water. Oftentimes, stools and detachable showerheads are provided for the comfort of bathers. It is taboo to enter the waters dirty and all soap must IL YPUZLK Vќ [VV )YPUN `V\Y V^U ZVHW shampoo and towel just in case!
Do not soak your towel At many of the hot springs, guests must take special care to not let their towels touch the waters inside of the baths (some onsen do allow guests to bring towels in with them but, if not stated, assume that this is not allowed). Many bathers will leave their towels on the side or else will fold them and rest them on top of their heads.
Never swim or jump While most frequent visitors have probably tried swimming in the pools when they think that nobody is watching, this is also an onsen etiquette no-no. No swimming allowed!
Wipe off excess water Before entering the change rooms, guests should use their towels to wipe off excess water from their bodies. This helps keep the floors cleaner and less slippery.
©Odakyu Electric Railway / ©JNTO
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What to try
Onsen Tamago Onsen tamago, meaning “hot spring egg,” is a traditional Japanese low-temperature egg that is boiled in hot spring water to create creamy, silky egg whites and custard-like firm yolks. These eggs are perfectly poached inside of their shells.
Ryokan A ryokan is a type of traditional Japanese inn. More than simply a place to sleep, ryokan offer a glimpse into a traditional Japanese lifestyle and hospitality. Many have their own Japanese-style baths as well as tatami floors, futons and top-notch cuisine.
Dogo Ehime Dogo Onsen is located to the east of central Matsuyama, and, with over 3,000 years of history, is one of Japan’s oldest and most famous hot spring resorts. Beautiful bath houses and ryokan abound in Dogo, one of the preferred hot spring destinations for prestigious Japanese families. Dogo Onsen Honkan, a bathhouse standing in the middle of the Dogo Onsen district, is a designated National Important Cultural Property and has been awarded three stars in the Michelin Green Guide.
©JNTO
Yukata A yukata is a comfortable, lightweight cotton robe—a casual version of the kimono—that is often the dress code at ryokan and at many onsen. A yukata also absorbs remaining moisture after exiting the waters to keep bathers dry.
Ashiyu An ashiyu is basically a bath for your feet and lower legs. “Half immersion bathing” is said to be good for your health as it does not put as much stress on your heart and lungs as full-body onsen bathing.
Konyoku Once more the norm than the exception, konyoku, or mixed-gender bathing, is now only found in remote locations. Tokyo and other urban centres have outlawed konyoku, though there still are some konyoku in public locations that require bathers to don bathing suits.
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©JNTO
©JNTO
Echigo-Yuzawa Niigata ,JOPNV @\aH^H 6UZLU PU 5PPNH[H PZ H winter sport destination that boasts a number of hot springs to help soothe tired muscles after a day of skiing, hiking or fishing. The Iwa-no-yu hot spring is located close to the Yuzawa Fishing Park,
the Shukuba-no-yu hot spring is near the Tashiro Ski Resort, and the Kaido-no-yu hot spring boasts a spectacular heated outdoor bath. Kannakkuri is the name of [OL MVV[ ZWH VU @\aH^H :[YLL[ HUK PZ MYLL for everybody to use.
©JNTO
Naruko Miyagi
5HY\RV 6UZLU PZ SVJH[LK HWWYV_PTH[LS` 70 kilometres from Sendai and is two kilometres away from one of the most scenic gorges in the Tohoku region of Japan. Autumn leaf viewing is one of the more popular activities in this area, as are hiking, skiing and camping. There are five hot spring areas in Naruko, each of them featuring baths with different properties and touted health benefits.
©Miyagi Prefecture / ©JNTO
Noboribetsu Hokkaido Noboribetsu Tourist Association / ©JNTO
5VIVYPIL[Z\ PU [OL :OPRV[Z\ ;V`H 5H[PVUHS Park, is Hokkaido’s most famous hot spring resort. Most of the nine different kinds of thermal waters in Noboribetsu originate from the spectacular Jigokudani,
VY ¸/LSS =HSSL` ¹ [OH[ SPLZ Q\Z[ HIV]L [OL town of Noboribetsu Onsen and is famous for its natural beauty paired with hot steam vents, sulphurous streams and other volcanic activity. www.bentoboxmag.ca
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Hot Spot | Black Bear
By Nicholas Jones
Seafood Omurice This Japanese fan favourite has been perfected with a cream sauce and a generous helping of seafood.
Squid Ink Spaghetti Rich sea urchin adds an abundance of seafood Ă…H]V\Y [V [OPZ ]PZ\HSS` striking dish.
Markham gets some Japanese fusion love Black Bear Japanese Fusion brings eclectic natsukashi cuisine, from omurice to J-burgers.
Hungry for more? Let’s dig in!
Researching Black Bear Japanese Fusion before my visit, I immediately honed in on [OL 1HWHULZL Z[`SL I\YNLY VќLYPUNZ 0M `V\»]L UL]LY L_WLYPLUJLK [OL \UL_WLJ[LK ÅH]V\Y combinations that show up on a Japanese burger, then the trip to Black Bear is worth it MVY [OPZ L_WLYPLUJL HSVUL The burger menu definitely stands up to the competition, with offerings like Okonomiyaki Angus Beef, Avocado Soft Shell Crab or Curry Chicken Katsu Rice Burgers, among V[OLYZ 6U [OL YLJVTTLUKH[PVU VM IV[O the owner and the head chef, Gabe, I ordered the Sukiyaki Beef Rice Burger—one VM [OL [VW ZLSSLYZ :LY]LK IL[^LLU [^V MYPLK rice patties in lieu of buns, this burger features thin-sliced sukiyaki beef served in a teriyaki sauce and dressed with nori, green onion and WPJRSLK KHPRVU YHKPZO (Z PZ \Z\HSS` [OL JHZL with Japanese burgers, it was a grouping of ingredients I would never think to combine, I\[ [OL` JHTL [VNL[OLY KLSPJPV\ZS` (UK [OLYL»Z MHY TVYL [V )SHJR )LHY [OHU I\YNLYZ ;OL YLZ[ VM P[Z TLU\ MLH[\YLZ H U\TILY of dishes best described as Japanese cult MH]V\YP[LZ ;OPUNZ SPRL VT\YPJL MVY L_HTWSL! H comforting Japanese combination of a pillowZVM[ VTLSL[[L HUK YPJL ;`WPJHSS` ZLY]LK ^P[O tomato sauce, Black Bear dresses its omurice up with a generous helping of grilled shrimp, a dollop of mentaiko Alaskan pollock roe, T\ZOYVVTZ HUK H KLSPJPV\Z JYLHT ZH\JL
(UV[OLY KPZO [OH[ `V\ KVU»[ JVTL HJYVZZ that often in Toronto is Japanese-style pasta, which tends to enhance this Italian staple with all kinds VM PU[LYLZ[PUN ZLHMVVK PUZWPYH[PVU 6U T` ]PZP[ 0 ZHTWSLK )SHJR )LHY»Z :LH <YJOPU HUK 0R\YH *\[[SLÃ&#x201E;ZO :X\PK 0UR :WHNOL[[P ;OL visually striking black noodles get most of their flavour from the rich, briney urchin, and I was amazed by the way these flavours JVTWSLTLU[LK LHJO V[OLY To round out the eclectic menu of traditional HUK M\ZPVU KPZOLZ )SHJR )LHY VÑ&#x153;LYZ [OL Z[HWSL KLZZLY[Z `V\»K L_WLJ[ SPRL 1HWHULZL WHYMHP[Z JVTWSL[L ^P[O JY\UJO` JVYU Ã&#x2026;HRLZ HSVUNZPKL \[[LYS` \UPX\L KPZOLZ SPRL JYuTL IYÂ&#x201E;StL ZLY]LK PU H MYLZO WPULHWWSL 5V TH[[LY ^OH[ `V\»YL JYH]PUN [OL ]HYPL[` VU )SHJR )LHY»Z TLU\ TLHUZ P[»Z N\HYHU[LLK [V OH]L H KPZO [V ZH[PZM` `V\
Sukiyaki Beef Rice Burger
Baked Oyster with Salmon Roe
One of my favourite parts of the menu was its weird and wonderful collection of burgers, including this ILZ[ZLSSLY ZLY]LK \W VU [^V YPJL WH[[PLZ
I was blown away by how huge these oysters wereâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; and their delectable combination of baked cheese, YVL HUK TPZV TH`VUUHPZL
Black Bear Japanese Fusion /^` <UPVU]PSSL 905-940-9288 ^^^ ISHJRILHYQHWHULZLM\ZPVU JH 67,5! 4VU WT¶ WT WT¶ WT >LK¶-YP WT¶ WT WT¶ WT :H[¶:\U WT¶ ! WT WT¶ WT Â&#x2039; ;\LZ JSVZLK
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Ingredient | Fugu
By Sarah Dickson
血清も解毒剤もないフグの毒。 それでも食べたいその魅力とは？
paralysis and asphyxiation causing death. What THRLZ [OL ÄZO ZHML [V LH[ PZ [OL YLTV]HS VM [OL internal organs where the toxin is stored. Given the danger that comes along with feasting VU [OPZ ÄZO [OL Y\SLZ MVY M\N\ JOLMZ HYL ]LY` strict. They must be licensed, which requires a rigorous training program, and only 35% pass [OL JLY[PÄJH[PVU L_HTPUH[PVU *OLMZ HSZV OH]L to follow strict regulations in discarding the WVPZVUV\Z WHY[Z VM [OL ÄZO \ZPUN SVJRLK disposal containers and labels to make sure everything has been removed. Traditionally chefs who prepare fugu are also required to taste what they serve to prove that they have done it correctly. The rigorous training that fugu chefs experience also contributes to the high price, since you are quite literally putting your life in their hands!
FUGU 河豚
【ふぐ】
Daredevil dining For those who like to defy danger, fugu is just the ticket. ,]LY SVVR H[ H MVVK HUK ^VUKLY ¸^OV ^HZ [OL ÄYZ[ WLYZVU [V LH[ [OH[&¹ >OVL]LY [OL ÄYZ[ person was to eat fugu, Japan’s most dangerous delicacy, that person probably died shortly [OLYLHM[LY [OHURZ [V [OL [V_PJ LќLJ[ VM [OPZ poisonous poisson. Fortunately for adventurous foodies, fugu can now be consumed safely. Yet [OL HIPSP[` [V ÅPY[ ^P[O KHUNLY V]LY KPUULY PZ ^OH[ gives this dish its ongoing allure. Despite the risk, fugu has been eaten in Japan since about 10,000 B.C. It was banned by the Tokugawa Shogunate in 1570 due to the
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number of deaths resulting from its consumption. It made a comeback in 1888 after it was LUQV`LK I` /PYVI\TP 0[V [OL ÄYZ[ WYPTL TPUPZ[LY of Japan, and quickly earned its modern status as a delicacy. But because of the risk, there are strict regulations regarding its preparation. >OLU [OL M\N\ VY W\ќLYÄZO ¸W\ќZ¹ \W P[ doesn’t use air. Instead, it uses a substance called tetrodotoxin, a powerful neurotoxin that is exponentially more potent than cyanide. If the WVPZVUV\Z WHY[Z VM [OL ÄZO HYL JVUZ\TLK KPULYZ will feel a numbness in the mouth followed by
In 2012 however, prompted by a decline in deaths and a growing trend of Tokyoites purchasing fugu in other less strict parts of the country, the regulations on fugu in Tokyo Prefecture were relaxed. This change allows restaurants to purchase and serve fugu prepared Vќ ZP[L HUK P[ SL[Z [OL ÄZO IL IV\NO[ PU NYVJLY` stores, also bringing down the cost of this risky dish. There are also fugu farmers that have worked to breed a non-poisonous variety, but fugu fans insist that wild tastes better. Fugu is celebrated as a winter food, eaten on special occasions—perhaps because for some, the best way to celebrate success is by doing something dangerous, despite the fact that with fugu the risk is mostly eliminated. Fugu is commonly eaten as sashimi but is also often served grilled or as part of another winter favourite, nabe ;OL ÅH]V\Y PZ Z\I[SL ^P[O some even claiming that it actually does taste SPRL JOPJRLU >L TH` UV[ RUV^ ^OV [OL ÄYZ[ person was to eat fugu, but the last won’t be coming around anytime soon.
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Sake | All Koji
By Amanda Plyley
全量を麹米で仕込んだ特別な純米酒。 ふくよかな甘味、旨味、
Getting to know Ninohe
上品な酸味を楽しんで…。
All Koji
A few tips if you’re planning a trip to the beautiful Iwate Prefecture ...
南部美人なんぶびじん All the best This one-of-a-kind brew is an ideal toast for the holidays.
L
uxurious sweetness. Velvety texture. Unique concept and flavour. As winter picks up and the holiday season approaches, you may think these words refer to a new and exotic brand of chocolate or a succulent dessert at one of the city’s top restaurants—but no. In this case, it’s all about All Koji. For both sake aficionados and newbies learning the rice-wine ropes, Nanbu Bijin’s All Koji is a great choice. Its name says it “all”: while sake is typically made from 80% steamed rice and 20% komekoji or koji rice (cooked rice inoculated with Aspergillus oryzae), All Koji boasts 100% of the latter. Considering the delicate nature of koji rice and the skill required to produce even a small amount of sake using it exclusively, All Koji is undoubtedly at the top of its class. Robust and bursting with flavour without overwhelming the palate, its freshness pairs well with rich, savoury meals like a perfectly cooked steak or with cheesy, buttery dishes. It’s also ideal on the rocks or mixed Sangria-style with soda and fresh fruit. And on a scale of sweet to dry, All Koji falls on the super sweet side—so it’ll nicely complement that dessert you’ve been eyeing. (Oh, go for it! ‘Tis the season!) All Koji’s unique nature is easy to understand when its origins are taken into account. Located in the oceanside city of Ninohe in Japan’s Iwate Prefecture, Nanbu Bijin (literally 14
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“Southern Beauty”) is an exceptional brewery in a picturesque atmosphere. atmosphere Dating back to 1902, the business boasts a traditional wood kura (brewery building) set in a town composed of 70% forest and mountainous regions—not to mention multiple national parks and freshwater sources. So it’s no surprise that the brewery sought inspiration from its surroundings when honing its process in 1951 to produce the clean, sweet sake that has set it apart from the competition for more than half a century. It is said that each sake reflects the efforts and experiences of its toji (master brewer), and that the brewer’s respect for the craft is apparent in the drink. If this is true, imagine the dedication that can be felt in the work of Nanbu Bijin’s first nanbu toji, Hajime Yamaguchi. Named one of Japan’s “100 Great Craftsmen” by the Ministry of Labour, he has created a legacy with the brewery that continues to this day. Ready to try All Koji? Unfortunately you won’t find it in Toronto. Plan a trip to Japan or luck out and find it in the high-end restaurants of Los Angeles, New York and London. If you manage to take a bottle home, age it in the fridge or the pantry and watch as its rich amber shade gradually darkens. Open and savour the sweetness on a special occasion.
With fewer than 30,000 people and land reaching across 400 square kilometres, Ninohe offers plenty of room to spread out. Visit Oritsume Basenkyo Prefectural Natural Park for a breath of fresh air.
Farming comes first in Ninohe. The city’s economy is largely based on agriculture and food production, so spend the day at a local farm and try the region’s specialty—apples!
Ninohe is home to the world’s oldest sake vending machine. This wooden box from the early 1900s previously housed sake bottles that were sold for half a yen. Find it on display at the Ninohe City Historical Folk Materials Museum.
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Travel | Shirakawa-go
By Sylvester Pilgrim
SHIRAKAWA-GO 山間部に佇む美しい合掌造りの集落。 世界的建築家が絶賛した建築美を見る。
Take a trip to the mountains and witness the beauty of the village that time forgot. Located nearly in the centre of Japan, in the mountainous northwestern part of Gifu Prefecture, is the quaint village that time forgot: Shirakawa-go. The name comes from the traditional Japanese name used for the region in ancient times. Because of the village’s elevation, it receives some of 16
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the heaviest snowfall in Japan. Beginning in December and ending sometime in March, the accumulation of snow can reach between two and three metres on average. But there’s more to the area than its unusual snowfall. One attraction is Ogimachi GasshoStyle Village, which has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The houses are built of wood, with steeply sloping thatched roofs, and were constructed around 1800. They are still standing today as a testament to the rich heritage prevalent throughout the area. While the roofs may be steepled like palms held together in prayer, they were designed specifically to deal with the winter conditions—in particular, the weight of the accumulated snow. The houses face north
and south to take into account the area’s prominent wind direction. This also controls the amount of sunlight that hits the roofs, allowing for cool summers and warm winters. And that’s not the only way this village makes the most of its beautiful snowy climate: for seven days in the evenings in January and February, when the snow is deep around the houses and piled thick on the rooftops, the village holds a light-up event. The warm glow coming from the triangular homes gives the village an air of having stepped directly out of a fantasy. If you miss this event, but happen to be in the region around the middle of October, you will be fortunate enough to witness the Doburoku Matsuri (or Doburoku Festival). It is a celebration of folk singing and dancing to honour the history and tradition of the
Hot springs and cold-weather fun
Soak away your cares in these mineral-rich waters while beautifying your skin.
Join the Doburoku Festival and you can witness the traditional lion dance.
village. Offerings of doburoku (unrefined sake with the consistency and appearance of rice porridge) are made to the gods as prayers for peace in the village, safety and a bountiful harvest. Some of it is offered at the shrines and the rest is later shared with attendees. Villagers gather to sing songs, dance and perform improvised comedic routines. Other events of the festival include lion dances and musical entertainment accompanied by the shamisen (a three-stringed Japanese banjo-like instrument). The Doburoku Matsuri is an excellent opportunity to witness a celebration that has changed little throughout the course of time. Another advantage of the village’s snowy location is its skiing facilities. Shirakawa-go Hirase Onsen Shirayumi Snow Ski Resort
A village built to resist time and the elements while capturing tradition.
is around a 15-minute drive from the centre of the village and overlooks the Hakusan mountain range. You can enjoy the breathtaking vistas as you ski or snowboard the up to 1,000-metre trails. For those wishing to take a more relaxing holiday, the Ojirakawa hot spring in nearby Hirase village would be for you. The waters flow from the foot of Mt. Hakusan and contain a combination of sulphur and sodium chloride, which is said to promote beautiful, healthy skin. Soaking in these open-air baths is also renowned for promoting fertility. Whether you come for the skiing, the festivals or the baths, when you visit Shirakawago you will experience a piece of tradition scarcely found anywhere else. So book your ticket and take a step into a world of fantasy.
SHIRAKAWA-GO 【白川郷】
A combination of JR train, shinkansen (bullet train) and a bus trip will get you to peace and tranquility.
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Street eats and TOKYO By Amanda Taylor
It doesn’t cost a fortune to eat like a king in Tokyo. The street stalls, back-alley dives and izakaya restaurants are where you’ll find some of the city’s best food. The flavour of Tokyo is found on the streets. It’s in the stalls lining the festivals, at the conveyorbelt sushi spots and the multitude of izakaya restaurants alive with chatter every night. Everyone has their favourite go-to spot. Yaki (焼, yaku) or “fried” is a word you’ll hear a lot in Tokyo. One of Tokyo’s most popular native foods is monja-yaki. It’s not the prettiest: it involves combining flour and seafood ingredients on a hot skillet to form something lumpy, yet delicious. But making monja-yaki is fun! You typically make it yourself, choosing from ingredients like pork, squid, shrimp and vegetables, and competing with friends to see who can make the tastiest creation. Ningyo-yaki comes from the Japanese word for “doll,” but before you get carried away imagining fried Barbies, ningyo-yaki are actually sweet snack cakes in the shape of characters. Traditionally they are made in the shape of ancient gods, but more recently they have also © TCVB
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taken the form of popular children’s characters. They’re often filled with anko, or sweet red bean paste, another Tokyo favourite. Sukiyaki is a Japanese hot pot featuring meat and vegetables simmered in a light broth. It’s another communal dish, often found at izakaya restaurants. Waiting for the ingredients to finish cooking is the perfect opportunity to drink and engage in conversation. And every street corner in Tokyo seems to have some variety of izakaya, which are restaurants that serve alcohol and shareable Japanese tapas. The variety of food is what makes izakaya so appealing. From sushi to yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) and takoyaki (fried octopus balls), you can try a little of everything. At kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt) restaurants, diners sit around a big, circular conveyor belt and choose plates of sushi as they pass by. The colours of the plates indicate the various prices
of the sushi. There are even high-tech spots where you can order on a tablet and have the sushi come whizzing right to your seat on a motorized track. And here, inexpensive sushi doesn’t mean “cheap” sushi. The best places have lines out the door. Food equals fun in Tokyo!
tokyotokyo.jp Official Tokyo Travel Guide
gotokyo.org Visit the Tokyo Brand website to plan your next trip and connect with the many exciting experiences this city has to offer.
TO K YO P U LS ES WI T H I D EAS T HAT C O N N ECT THE OLD WITH THE NEW
gotok yo.org
Only in Japan | Oshibori
By M Crowson
Warm hospi-towel-ity
Learn about the surprisingly lively world of oshibori, the hand towel felt ’round the world. おしぼりにもマナーあり。お手拭きだからお手々以外は拭かないでね…。 And they’re not just available at high-class YLZ[H\YHU[Z 6ZOPIVYP HYL VќLYLK H[ IHYZ OV[LSZ on airplanes, in salons and even at convenience stores, though the style might vary from place to place. On airplanes, for example, attendants pass out warm oshibori with silver tongs, while more everyday venues, like the convenience Z[VYL VќLY WYL TVPZ[LULK KPZWVZHISL ]LYZPVUZ individually wrapped in plastic. While versions of oshibori have been around since ancient times, their use in the hospitality industry began in the 1600s at post stations HSVUN [OL Ä]L THQVY OPNO^H`Z ^OLYL PUURLLWLYZ ^V\SK VќLY [V^LSZ [V ^LHY` [YH]LSSLYZ stopping for rest and entertainment. These days, oshibori have expanded beyond a business service, and many people make a habit of carrying their own, often colourfully designed oshibori in specially made cases.
Illustration by Chieko Watanabe
Treat yourself to a meal at any mid- to highrange Japanese restaurant, and your experience will inevitably start with the warm, clean welcome of an oshibori, a hand towel whose name comes from the word shiboru (絞る), which means “to wring.” It’s also sometimes called otefuki (お手拭き), which literally means “hand cleaner.” Your server will usually bring the towels elegantly arranged in a basket or on a special plate. The towels, which are mostly made from cotton, are moistened with warm water and neatly rolled up. Customers use oshibori to clean their hands, and the warmth
gives you a nice, cosy feeling before you select your food and drinks. This standard practice of omotenashi, or Japanese hospitality, has recently become popular in countries around the world, but there’s so much more to the towel than meets the eye. Cotton oshibori are usually served warm, but during the summer you’ll be given a cool one instead, a refreshing treat in Japan’s sweltering humidity. Some restaurants add lemon juice to their hot towels for degreasing and fragrance purposes, but the scent is usually subtle.
Beneath the practical appeal of oshibori, these towels have become something of a cultural WOLUVTLUVU -VY [OL YLHSS` ^PSK Z[\ќ `V\ JHU go to an izakaya in Tochigi Prefecture, where your oshibori is served … by a monkey (hopefully with clean hands). Not willing to travel for towel culture? Luckily, there are many blogs and vlogs devoted to “oshibori art,” where you can learn how to fold your towel into a rabbit, bird or even Totoro! Oshibori are even used to create impromptu after-dinner puppet shows. It may sound silly, but in the hands of a skilled artist, these unassuming white towels really come to life, dancing and singing with astonishing grace. One professional puppeteer, @HZ\[HRH 5HRHT\YH L]LU VќLYZ SLZZVUZ
Wipe right for love (of good manners) Are you an oshibori DO ÄYZ[ [PTLY& 5V ^VYYPLZ NOT Just follow these three steps to some go for the pits! good, clean fun. It’s OK to wipe your hands, or even your face, but never, ever wipe your armpits. No one wants to see that.
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DO
DO NOT
fold after using.
go for double.
Don’t just toss your oshibori carelessly aside—roll or fold it and place it on its tray while you eat.
You may be a dirty bird, but it’s unheard of to ask for another oshibori after you’ve already used one.
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1-Day Snow Monkey Tour
Round-trip from Tokyo
1 Visit the Jigokudani Monkey Park, a world-famous park where Japanese macaques can be seen up close as they freely soak in hot springs. The hot spring baths here are exclusively for wild monkeys, the only baths of their kind in the world. Enjoy seeing the monkeys’ charming expressions while they relax in the hot springs. 2 Visit the Zenko-ji Temple, a designated National Treasure built roughly 1,400 years ago. Along with the Todai-ji Temple’s Great Buddha Hall, it is one of Japan’s most remarkable wooden structures. 3 Just a shinkansen ride from Tokyo Station! An interpreter guide will meet participants at Nagano Station.
TOUR BASIC INFORMATION Departure city: Tokyo ¦ Visits: Nagano Tour: November 24, 2017 – March 30, 2018 (Monday, Wednesday and Friday only) Duration: Approx. 13 hours Includes: English-speaking guide, lunch, other admission fees and transportation costs included in the tour
PRICE
CAD $
330
All photos ©JNTO
HOW TO PURCHASE
*Price is valid for the month of December 2017 *Price may fluctuate monthly due to change in exchange rate
Reservations can be made by either telephone or email. Please contact JTB International (Canada) Ltd. at Phone: 416-367-5824 | Toll-free: 1-800-268-5942 | Email: jtbtoronto@jtbi.com | Website: www.jtb.ca
ITINERARY 06:5007:40
Go from Tokyo Station (or Ueno Station) to Nagano Station
120
08:30- Arrive at Nagano Station 09:20 Meet with the interpreter guide on the platform at Nagano Station.
12:30
Walk to Jigokudani Monkey Park
14:10 13:20
Zenko-ji Temple
40
min
This is a hard walking tour covering about 40 minutes of walking each way between the Roman Museum parking lot and Jigokudani Monkey Park.
Depart from Nagano Station to Zenko-ji Daimon
10:10
Depart from Zenkoji Station
Head to the parking lot of the Roman Museum (no entry to the museum) from which visitors walk to the Jigokudani Monkey Park.
Board a shinkansen on your own from Tokyo Station.
09:40
11:40
min
40
Jigokudani Monkey Park
50
min
11:00
Japanese-style Lunch The meal for lunch includes soba (buckwheat) noodles, a Nagano specialty. As traces of buckwheat flour may be present in the entire shop, those with buckwheat allergies should not enter.
40
min
15:00
Visit the Jigokudani Monkey Park, a world-famous park where Japanese macaques can be seen up close as they freely soak in hot springs. This is the only place in the world where wild Japanese macaques can be seen bathing in their own designated hot spring. Enjoy seeing the amusing expressions of the monkeys up close as they warm themselves in a relaxing hot spring bath.
40
min
Go from Roman Museum Parking Lot to Tokyo Station
min
Visit Zenko-ji Temple, which boasts 1,400 years of rich history. Its main hall is a designated national treasure.
Depart from Jigokudani Monkey Park
Leave for Nagano Station
16:20- Depart from Nagano Station 17:15 Head to Tokyo Station via shinkansen.
18:00- Arrive at Tokyo Station 19:00 Tour ends at Tokyo Station.
*Please note that special accommodations for those with trouble walking will not be provided. Small children will not be allowed to participate in the tour. The walking path may be frozen and slippery if there is snow. Please wear winter boots or other non-slip footwear. The temperature in the area in winter averages about -1°C. Please dress accordingly. **The behaviour of wild monkeys is unpredictable. The park might be closed to visitors in case the monkeys do not come down to the park from the mountains. The tour may be cancelled on the day before tour departure in such cases. A full refund will be issued if the tour is cancelled.
For more information, please contact JTB International at 1-800-268-5942 (toll-free) or email at jtbtoronto@jtbi.com www.bentoboxmag.ca
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By M Crowson
Hit the books | The Silent Dead
How to make the dead speak The Silent Dead
More by the authors
by Tetsuya Honda Translated by Giles Murray
Soul Cage Lieutenant HimeRH^H»Z [LHT ÄUKZ a severed hand that belongs to a man who killed himself 13 years earlier. Can they solve this case of stolen identity?
An instinct-driven homicide detective breaks open a gruesome series of murders, even as the killer begins to close in on her. Cage g on the Sea
Author info
Tetsuya Honda is a bestselling mystery and crime fiction writer. :L]LYHS IVVRZ MYVT [OL 3PL\[LUHU[ 9LPRV /PTLRH^H ZLYPLZ OH]L ILLU adapted for TV and film, including the film Strawberry Night, based on Book 1 of the series, The Silent Dead. Giles Murray ^HZ IVYU PU 3VUKVU ZJOVVSLK PU :JV[SHUK HUK TV]LK to Tokyo to study Japanese after graduation. He has also translated 2HVY\ 6OUV»Z Cage on the Sea 2\TPRV 2HRLOHZOP»Z So Sad to Fall in Battle and Masahiko Fujiwara’s The Dignity of The Nation.
Corpses aren’t typically very talkative, and those in Tetsuya Honda’s The Silent Dead are surrounded by a particularly gruesome hush. ;OL IVVR PZ [OL ÄYZ[ PU H ZLYPLZ [OH[ MVSSV^Z Reiko Himekawa, a daring homicide detective who made lieutenant two years earlier at the age of 27. When a body is discovered in the bushes of a quiet suburban neighbourhood of Tokyo, Himekawa and her team are called to the scene. The body was meticulously wrapped in blue plastic, yet carelessly left where it could easily be seen. Underneath the WSHZ[PJ KL[LJ[P]LZ ÄUK [OH[ [OL ]PJ[PT ^HZ YP[\HSS` tortured before having his throat slashed, yet in life, he’d been a diligent husband and ZHSLZTHU H[ HU VѝJL M\YUP[\YL JVTWHU` The pieces don’t add up. While some of the team carefully check every procedural box, Himekawa follows a hunch. Her rogue investigation turns up another body, and it begins to look more and more like the killer didn’t act alone. As the scope of the case expands, the detectives from Himekawa’s squad are forced to work closely with each other, and with members of other departments. The results 24
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are often tense, with clashing personalities and plenty of misogyny from some of Himekawa’s male colleagues. The cast of detectives ranges from the despicable, self-promoting former PU[LSSPNLUJL VѝJLY ¸:[\II`¹ 2H[Z\TH[H [V [OL comical, puppy-dog Detective Ioka, who can’t stop thinking of Himekawa romantically. Even as she hunts for the killers under a tickPUN JSVJR /PTLRH^H ÄNO[Z H YHUNL VM PU[LYUHS battles, from leering sexual propositions to outright witness poaching and being undermined in front of her superiors. Undeterred, she shuts down every harasser, and despite it all, still trusts and respects the men of her core squad, who feel more like family than her real family does. But there’s a reason she’s so driven to the life of a detective: she struggles with a trauma from her past. The support of a female detective inspired her to join the force. Now that some years have passed, however, and her case refuses to break, Himekawa wonders if she’s been changed for the worse by her ambitious rise. Little does she know she’s closer to the killers than she feels—and they’re also closing in.
This historical novel is based on the true story of the dozens of military survivors who hid in the South 7HJPÄJ PU[V [OL 1950s, unaware that WWII had ended.
Though the translator sometimes uses weirdly archaic or overly Western colloquial terms, the book makes for an entertaining overall read with some shocking twists, and a close eye MVY [OL WZ`JOVSVN` VM IV[O [OL ¸IHK N\`Z¹ HUK [OVZL ^OV»K JHSS [OLTZLS]LZ [OL ¸NVVK N\`Z ¹ Fans of procedurals will enjoy the cultural KPќLYLUJLZ VU KPZWSH` OLYL! JVWZ KVU»[ \Z\HSS` pack heat, and there are few police cars on site, so the detectives have to talk shop in hushed voices on the train. But what’s even more striking is how vocally Honda’s novel speaks about bigotry and violence against ^VTLU HUK [OL KPѝJ\S[ [LU\V\Z LTV[PVUHS connections women make with each other under society’s rigid expectations. The misogynous scenes are sometimes hard to read, but Himekawa’s story ultimately triumphs. The book feels especially timely considering recent news and social media discussions about men who attempt to broker power through violence against women. A good read for any fan of crime novels, but an equally good read for someone interested in tough female protagonists who face such violence head on.
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Local Event | Hatsumode
Try some Japanese tradition for the New Year .H[OLY MVY [OL 5L^ @LHYÂťZ Ă&#x201E;YZ[ WYH`LYZ H[ ;VYVU[V )\KKOPZ[ *O\YJO ,_WLYPLUJL /H[Z\TČŹKL HUK THRL ZVTL YLZVS\[PVUZ [V [\YU PU[V `V\Y ILZ[ `LHY `L[
JAN. 1, 2018: JAPANESE
NEW YEARâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S EVENT For many in Japan, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a tradition to go /H[Z\TÍťKL ĺ&#x2C6;?芣 ^OPJO YLMLYZ [V [OL MPYZ[ ]PZP[ [V H :OPU[V ZOYPUL VY )\KKOPZ[ [LTWSL K\YPUN [OL 5L^ @LHYÂťZ OVSPKH`Z \Z\HSS` ^P[OPU [OL MPYZ[ [OYLL KH`Z VM 1HU\HY` ;OL` THRL [OPZ [YHKP[PVUHS ]PZP[ [V VMMLY \W [OLPY WYH`LYZ MVY [OL ZHML[` HUK WYVZWLYP[` VM [OLPY MHTPSPLZ PU [OL JVTPUN JVT PUN `LH `L Y ;OL OL IPN N NLZ N [ /H[[ Z\ NL Z ÍťKL Z\T Íť KL [\Y [\YUV\ UV\ \ [ PZ PU ;VR ;VR`V ` `V H [OL H[ O 4LP 4LPQPQPP 1PU 1PUN\ 1P N\ \ :OY :O O Y PUL PUL UL (WW ( WW W YV_ V _ PT V_ PTH T [LS TH [LL S`` TPPPS SPV TPS T SPSPV U WL WLV W L WSL LV S L]L ]LL Y` Y ` `LH ` Y ZOV `L OV^ ^\ \W W H[ [OPZ [ OP Z ZOYPUL [OP ZOY ZO O Y PUL PU PU ^P[OPU ^P ^P[ O PU [O OPU [OL O L MPY OL MPM PYZ[ P Z[ Z [OY [O OYYLLLL KH`` Z V O VMM 1HU 1H \HY \HH ` >OPSL > >O >OP O P SL S L [OP [O [O OP Z PZZ H ]LY LYY ` PTW LY` TWV VY[ Y[ HU[ H [[YH HU YH KP[PVU KP[[ PV P V [V PVU [ V THU T ` TH 1 HW 1HW 1HWHUL W HUL ULL ZL Z L WLV W LV LVWSL VW WSSLL P[[ PZ WSL P Z HHSZ HSSZZ V H K KPMPMMMMPJ PJJ\S[ J\ \S[S J\Z \S J \Z \ Z [VT VT T [V V [[HRR L WH WHY H [ PU P U V\[[ ZPK ZPKLL VM V M 1HW HW W HU HU 4HU` 4HU HU U` U UL^ UL L 1 HW HULZL 1HW Z L PTT ZL T T PPNY TT PN NYY HHU[ N HU U[[ Z [V [ V *H *HU HHU U HHKH HK KHH U UV V SSVU V U NL VU NLY N LY LY W YHH JJ[P WYH J[[ P JL J P[PP[ [ ZPT ZPTW PTW WSSS` MVY WS` MV VYY [O V [OL O L YL OL YLH LLHH ZVU ZZV V U [OH VU [ H [ [O [[OL OL ` OH] O OHHH]]L ]L UV U V WSH W JL [V VN NV V MV MMVY V Y [OL VY [[O OLL PY O PY / /H[ H [ ZZ\ H[ Z\T \T ÍťKL \ KLL ;O ;OH ; OH [ PZ O PPZ Z \U \U[ U [ PSP S [O [[OP OPP Z `LH O LHH YY LHY ;VY ;V ;VY V YV VU VU[ U[[ V U VÂťZ ÂťZ ]LY ÂťZ ]LLLYY ZP ZZPV PPV U VM VM / /H[ /H HH[[ Z\T \T \ TÍť TÍťKL ÍťK ÍťKL KL K L PZ P Z ILP LLPPUN P UN UN O OLS OL LSK LS H[[ ;V ;VY ; VYYV V VU[ VU U[ U [ V )\ )\ )\K \K K KOP K OP KO O P Z[ Z *O\ \ YYJ YJO J O VU V U 1HU 1HHHU U
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from 11 am to 9 pm. The team behind this event is Team Samurai Resurrection (TSR), a group of Japanese business owners from across the GTA. The team was established in 2014 with the objectives to preserve, promote and share all aspects of Japanese culture with Canadians. Aft vis After visito itors r offer ff er the their ir New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; arâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ss firs f irstt pr p r ayy er in the h ma main in hal a l, the heyy can hea head he d down d o wn to thee ch churc urc r hâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s h ba b sem ement ent n wh where ree th t ere rree wi w illlll b e Jap ap p ane ne se foo n f oo ood d boot b oot ooth ott hs, h s sa hs s a ke sake k e tas tastin ta as tin t n g, art arts rrtt s a nd d c fts cra fttts , and a nd d Jap Jaap anese ane nee ssee ga g a es gam es. s On O -st stt age ge w ge wii llll be a n umb um m ber mb e r off exc er x c iti i ti ng n g pre resen e sen s ntat ta ion tat i on s , inc nc uding nclud d ing ng g tra rraa dit d iio di ion on o n all fes feees tiv t e d ances e s an es aand n nd d mu u sic siicc ass we w lll as as the h R he Raa men m Baa ttll e , a s how me ow o wdow do dow o w n b etw ow tw w eeen en n fo ou urr f am fam m ous o us ou us T To o ron o n to on t o ram m een n rres eess tau taau u rran an n tts. tss Tw w o s pec p ecc iial iaal al YHT HHT T LU LU IV^ I V^SZ SZZ MV MMVY V [O O PZ /H[ / H Z\T /H \T \ TÍť ÍťKL ÍťK K L] L ] LU LU[ U ^PSS ^ P SS I ^P ILL IL L ser eerr ved erved vveeed d al a l d ay ay. y P eo Peo op ple l e off al le a l f ait a hs, hsss,, every e v ery ev e ry one eryone n e from ne f ro fr om m ba bab b a ies tto o seenior sen enio en ior orrs, o s, ar arree weelco are lcome co omee at at the the eevveen th ent n . En njjjo njo oy J ap apa pan pa nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mo mos mo oss t i mpo mp m po o rrta orta taant a nt n t hol h idaa y e ven een ent n t iin n Toro o ro n nto to. Hap Ha H app ap pyy New N ew e w Ye Ye aar! arr!!
Event Info
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Date/Time Jan. 1, 2018, 11 amâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;9 pm Admission Adults $5 | Youth & children (16 and under) free Location Toronto Buddhist Church (1011 Sheppard Ave. W., Toronto), 5-min. walk from TTC Sheppard West Station. Parking available.
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Film focus | Being Good
By James Heron
Cycles of compassion and abuse 4PWV 6»Z H^HYK ^PUUPUN ÄST PU[LY[^PULZ [OL Z[VYPLZ VM [OYLL JOHYHJ[LYZ Z[Y\NNSPUN PU SP]LZ VM LTV[PVUHS PZVSH[PVU VY JH\NO[ PU WH[[LYUZ VM HI\ZL
MOVIE INFO Being Good (2015)
© 2015 ‘KIMI WA II KO’ SEISAKU IINKAI
Director: Mipo O Starring: Kengo Kora, Machiko Ono, Chizuru Ikewaki, Kazuya Takahashi and Amon Kabe Screenplay: Ryo Takada, based on stories by Hatsue Nakawaki Running time: 121 minutes A rookie primary school teacher struggles to control his new students, an isolated mother harms her own daughter and a woman with dementia befriends an autistic boy in this powerful study of human connection.
W
inner of the NETPAC Award at the Moscow International Film Festival as well as the Grand Prize Jury Award for Best Film at our own 2016 Toronto Japanese Film Festival, Mipo O’s Being Good was among the best of its year. If you missed it the first time around, you’ll have another opportunity to catch this exceptional film as part of the Japan Foundation Toronto’s winter screening series. Newly graduated schoolteacher Okano (Kengo Kora) is struggling to maintain control in his first classroom. One boy wets himself because he is afraid to ask for permission to use the toilet, a shy girl is tormented by other students—and, most concerning yet, he begins to suspect a child of being the victim of parental violence and neglect. In his attempts to remedy this Okano himself nearly becomes a victim of violence in a confrontation with the boy’s father. An interaction with his sister’s young son brings comfort and the possibility of a solution. With her husband abroad, Masami (Machiko Ono) takes on the full-time responsibility of 28
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O’s direction generates a steadily mounting undercurrent of dread and builds to a soaring climax.
parenting her three-year-old daughter Ayane. But Masami lacks the emotional resilience for the task. She is overwhelmed and, having been a victim of abuse as a child herself, begins beating her daughter—completing a cycle of generational abuse. She spends her afternoons in the park with Ayane’s friend’s mother, the kind but unsophisticated Yoko (Chizuru Ikewaki). As the abuse escalates Yoko begins to suspect there is a problem.
Of the three stories it is Masami’s that is most affecting. Ono’s performance as the desperate and emotionally hollowed-out Masami is riveting and the scenes of violence against Ayane are rendered all the more excruciating for the sense of terrible suffering we feel in both the victim and the perpetrator. Kindness and human connection are the only ways to counter isolation and cycles of abuse. This seems like a simple message but director O delivers it in a thoughtful and elliptical way. She states: “People who suffocate in their
‘family’ can be saved by someone who is not ‘family.’ And when that moment comes, people can feel compassion for ‘family’ again. Yes, this might be the ideal thinking, but I’d like to believe it is so.”
O’s direction generates a steadily mounting undercurrent of dread and builds to a soaring climax. But she withholds catharsis. When Okano assigns a special project to his students he elicits responses that weave a beautiful and hopeful montage on the importance and diversity of families. But that hope is shaded with the knowledge that so many remain hurt, isolated and at risk of visiting their abuse on a new generation. Being Good will be screened on January 7, 2018, alongside The Vancouver Asahi as part of the Japan Foundation Toronto’s Japanese Movies at the Hot Docs Ted Rogers Cinema series.
G O Let's
llearn earn
N I H O N G O
easy JJapanese apanese
What to say and do at a Shinto shrine Shinto (神道) is Japan’s traditional religion, practiced by almost 80% of Japanese. A religion that worships spirits and gods, Shintoism focuses on ritual practices. With over 81,000 shrines in the country, there is a good chance that you’ll have a chance to visit one in Japan. It’s important to follow ritual customs when visiting a jinja (神社, shrine).
Intermediate We wash our hands here. ここで手と口を洗います。 Kokode teto kuchiwo araimasu.
When making a wish, it is customary to throw a saisen (賽銭, ¥5 coin) into the offering box. Ring the bell to greet the deity, bow twice and clap your hands twice. While your hands are still together, silently thank the deity for your current blessings, and finally, bow once again.
I don’t quite believe but it never hurts to get a “Great Fortune” slip. あんまり信じてないけど、 大吉に越したことはないね！ Anmari shinjite naikedo, daikichini koshita kotowa naine!
Beginner Near the entrance of every shrine is a temizusya (手水舎, water basin), where you can perform the cleansing ritual, misogi (禊). Scoop some water using the available ladle and pour the water over your left hand, then your right. Then pour a little water into your left hand and rinse out your mouth, remembering not to spit the water back into the basin. Finally, hold the ladle up so that remaining water can pour down the handle, and return the ladle to its resting spot.
You should throw a coin before you make a wish. お願い事をする前に、 賽銭を投げなきゃいけないよ。 Onegaigotowo surumaeni saisenwo nagenakya ikenaiyo.
Advanced Random fortunes, or o-mikuji (おみくじ), are available at the shrines for a small donation. After choosing one from the box, the recipient receives a paper detailing their fortune. If you happen to draw a bad luck fortune, never fear, for there is normally a tree or a wire where you can tie the paper to leave it behind.
Compiled by Nina Lee and Kozumi Miya-Woolford-sensei. Brought to you by the Toronto Japanese Language School | www.tjls.ca | @tjlsca | info@tjls.ca
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