Japanese Culture | Hot Spots | Products
| Food TM
Jan. 2018
No. 35 FREE www.bentoboxmag.ca
F e a ture
W h a t’s w i t h
Foodies worldwide sing the praises of Japan’s wagyu beef
WAG Y U
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Contents January 2018 No.35
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Heart-racing spectacle
04
Feature: All about wagyu beef
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Interview: Master butcher Noriaki Numamoto
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Ingredient: Winter’s best culinary hack
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Sake: Sho Chiku Bai Premium Ginjo
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Travel: Kumamoto
18
Interview: Drum TAO
20
Only in Japan: Lucky rice cakes
28
Book: Japanese food culture
30
Event: Wagyu demo
EDITOR’S NOTE
Nina Hoeschele
Beef up your wagyu knowledge You may have heard the term “wagyu” before, but do you know what sets this beef apart from your average steak? And what’s the real distinction between wagyu and Kobe beef? And—most importantly—where can you get a taste of it for yourself? Find all these answers and more throughout this issue as we take a closer look at one of Japan’s most savoury delicacies.
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Editors Nina Hoeschele, Amanda Plyley, Yumi Nishio Editorial coordinators Nina Hoeschele, Yumi Nishio Writers Amanda Taylor, James Heron, M Crowson, Nicholas Jones, Nina Lee, Sarah Dickson, Walter Muschenheim Designers Chieko Watanabe, Midori Yamamoto Photographer Kazu Maruyama Advertisement & marketing Kazu Maruyama Publisher Kazu Maruyama
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ISSN 2368-9153
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F eature
W h a t’s w i t h
WAG Y U By Amanda Taylor
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Foodies worldwide are singing the praises of Japan’s wagyu beef. Its rich flavour and silky texture are achieved through rigorous breeding practices.
Japan’s famous wagyu beef graces the tables of high-end restaurants the world over. Though “wagyu” literally means “Japanese beef,” the term specifically refers to a superior quality of beef best known for its umami, or savoury flavour, and its soft, velvety texture, the result of generous fat marbling due to meticulous breeding. Kobe beef, Matsuzaka beef and Yonezawa beef all fall under the “wagyu” umbrella. There are only four breeds of cattle that yield certified wagyu beef. The first is the Japanese Black, or Kuroge Washu. It’s by far the most common breed, and if you’re eating wagyu beef, it’s a good bet it’s of the Japanese Black variety. These cows have
the highest fat content and make for beef that’s almost airy in texture, seeming to melt on the tongue. The Japanese Brown, also referred to as the Japanese Red or Akaushi, is leaner, leading to a firmer texture. Because of the low fat content it’s considered healthier, but that in no way detracts from its taste. While in general Japanese Brown and Black cattle can be bred outside of Japan, the Shorthorn or Nihon Tankaku Shu stays native to the country. It also yields a leaner beef which has a more subtle flavour. The last breed is the Japanese Polled or
Pictured is the winner of the Matsuzaka wagyu competition, also known as the “Wagyu Olympics.” This beef is serious business, with the quality of the meat coming all the way down to the breeding. Wagyu breeders compete in categories such as most fertile cow, best bull and best beef cattle.
Mukaku Washu. The high level of amino acids give this beef a bold and meaty flavour. Like the Shorthorn, the Japanese Polled can only be found in Japan, and there are only hundreds of these cattle in existence. Although wagyu is now bred the world over, there are strict criteria that need to be met before beef can officially be considered wagyu. First and foremost, the beef must come from one of the four breeds above, or a crossbreed among the four. The cattle must also be registered with the National Livestock Breeding Centre. In order to be accurately registered and traced, the cattle must be born and bred in Japan. www.bentoboxmag.ca
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So although wagyu cattle are bred in the U.S., Australia and right here in Canada, premium wagyu still tends to be imported from Japan. On top of the tight regulations set for breeding cattle, the beef is also subject to a grading system. The first half of the system is based on the yield grade (the ratio of meat to total weight of the carcass) and is given a score of A, B or C, with A being the highest and C being the lowest. The second half of the system scores meat on factors such as its colouring, fat marbling and firmness. This grade ranges from 5 to 1, with 5 being the highest and 1 the lowest. So A5 wagyu beef would be the cream of the crop. A number of rumours surround wagyu beef and world-renowned Kobe beef in particular. According to a 2010 article in The Japan Times, claims that Kobe beef cattle are commonly fed beer or are massaged are false. And while wagyu beef is often exported outside Japan, Kobe beef rarely is. Any “Kobe” beef found in restaurants internationally is most likely Kobe-style beef, which is usually from a crossbreed of wagyu and Angus cattle. Kobe beef comes exclusively from Tajima cows, which are a type of Japanese Black raised in Hyogo Prefecture. The cows are fed a special diet to ensure their beef is of exceptional quality. Therefore to be
Japanese Black cattle are the most common wagyu breed. They’re known for the velvety, fatty texture that’s quintessential to wagyu.
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Places of production Though Kobe is most famous for wagyu beef (it’s even said NBA all-star Kobe Bryant is named for Kobe beef), wagyu is bred all over Japan. Yonezawa, Matsuzaka, Maezawa, Omi and Hida are also known as centres of wagyu beef production.
Yonezawa Maezawa
Hida
Omi/Kobe
officially classified as Kobe beef, the meat must come from Tajima cows bred and slaughtered in the Hyogo Prefecture of Japan. It must also have a yield grade of at least B and a meat quality score of 4 to 5. Finally, the beef should carry the official seal certifying it as Kobe beef.
Matsuzaka
With its unrivalled flavour and a buttery-soft texture second to none, it’s no wonder that wagyu is one of the most popular delicacies around.
How to eat wagyu
Due to meticulous breeding, wagyu’s natural flavour is more than enough on its own. It’s best to not get complicated with seasonings so as to enjoy the beef’s full effect.
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1 Yakiniku
Yakiniku, which literally means “fried meat,” is popular in restaurants all over Japan. Diners cook their meat on a grill set right into the table, and subtle sides like rice and vegetables make the perfect accompaniment to wagyu, allowing the meat to take centre stage. It’s a fun and inexpensive way to try wagyu, but be careful when cooking not to let your wagyu burn. Nothing is quite as disappointing as wagyu gone wrong.
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Shabu-shabu
Shabu-shabu, also known as hot pot, involves boiling meat and vegetables in a light broth. It’s especially popular in winter—a steamy pot of shabu-shabu is the perfect way to warm up. To cook wagyu shabu-shabu-style simply dip thin strips of beef into the broth, letting the heat of the pot cook the meat while it absorbs the subtle flavour of the soup. Shabu-shabu meat is sliced thinly, so it’s not necessary to dip it in for long.
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Sukiyaki
Sukiyaki is another type of hot pot similar to shabu-shabu, but the flavour is sweeter due to the use of sugar and mirin (a ricewine condiment) in the broth. As well, instead of dipping sauces, after cooking the meat it is dipped into raw egg. The mild sweetness of sukiyaki is a wonderful complement to the rich and velvety texture of wagyu. The mix of meatiness and sweetness creates a wonderful savour. www.bentoboxmag.ca
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The butcher FĂŁMu NATURAL MEATS Looking to get your hands on some wagyu? Look no further than FĂŁMu, a butcher located in Markham’s J-town. FĂŁMu is a play on the Japanese pronunciation for the word “farm.â€? This is the place to go if you’re looking for premium wagyu imported from Japan— even authentic Kobe beef! However FĂŁMu also carries international wagyu, including beef raised right in Ontario. FĂŁMu also boasts dry-aged wagyu. Dry-aging results in more tender meat with a concentrated flavour. FĂŁMu prides itself on sourcing free-range meat raised without antibiotics HUK JOLTPJHSZ 0[ VɈLYZ [OL largest selection of wagyu beef in the country, and is the only butcher in Ontario licensed to sell wagyu beef sourced from purebred wagyu cows in Japan.
4 Nigiri
Nigiri sushi is strips of raw or lightly seared meat placed on top of rice. While wagyu nigiri isn’t as common as the other methods of wagyu preparation, it’s a great way to experience the unaltered taste and texture of the meat. Due to concerns of contamination when it comes to meat sushi
as opposed to fish sushi, usually only the highest grades of wagyu are used for wagyu nigiri.
Unit 8, 3160 Steeles Ave. E., Markham (in the J-Town WSHaH ‹ ‹ www.famu.ca
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Steak
Because wagyu is so fatty and soft, it’s recommended to cook it a bit longer than other steaks, otherwise all that concentrated buttery richness can be overwhelming. Medium rare to medium is the sweet spot that will give the perfect
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texture and bring out the meaty, umami fullness of the beef. There are a number of top-quality restaurants in Canada that offer wagyu steak, both from domestic wagyu cattle and beef that has been imported from Japan.
Where to eat wagyu
Now that we’ve got your tastebuds tingling, here’s where you can go to try delicious wagyu in and around Toronto.
Zakkushi At Zakkushi the cosy, friendly atmosphere of an authentic Japanese izakaya has been recreated in loving detail. Zakkushi’s claim to fame is its grilled ZRL^LYZ! V]LY KPɈLYLU[ varieties of meat, seafood and veggie skewers grilled to perfection on Japanese “binchotan� charcoal. The wagyu beef, teriyaki wagyu and wagyu meatball ZRL^LYZ VɈLY H JOHUJL [V [Y` ^HN`\ H[ HU HɈVYKHISL price.
*HYS[VU :[ ;VYVU[V ‹ ‹ ^^^ zakkushi.com/carlton
Goen Yakiniku Located in Richmond Hill, .VLU Z[YP]LZ [V VÉ&#x2C6;LY HU authentic Japanese yakiniku experience. Its menu of Japanese yakiniku favourites includes fresh shrimp, vegetables and, of course, wagyu beef. Choose from American, Australian and Japanese wagyu. /^` , <UP[ 9PJOmond Hill Â&#x2039;
@VYR]PSSL (]L ;VYVU[V Â&#x2039; Â&#x2039; ^^^ kasamoto.ca
Katsura
Izakaya Ju Located in Markham, in the HÉ&#x2C6;LJ[PVUH[LS` [LYTLK ¸1 town,â&#x20AC;? this popular izakaya restaurant boasts an impressive and expansive menu. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for the beef, try the beef sashimi served with ponzu sauce. 3160 Steeles Ave. E., Markham Â&#x2039;
Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse A celebrated steakhouse VÉ&#x2C6;LYPUN H ]HYPL[` VM ^HN`\ steaks. Diners are spoiled
style beef, which comes out hot on a stone platter, or order up a wagyu steak when available.
for choice with premium wagyu steaks from Canada, the U.S., Australia and, of course, Japan. Most notable is the A5 Kobe beef ribeye imported from Hyogo Prefecture.
)YHU[ :[ ;VYVU[V Â&#x2039; Â&#x2039; ^^^ jacobssteakhouse.com
Kasa Moto A trendy Japanese restaurant and lounge located in Torontoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s upscale Yorkville area. Its modern menu features wagyu beef steamed buns and wagyu fried rice. Also of note is the A5 wagyu steak brought out sizzling on a hot stone. Come for the beef and stay for the gorgeous ambience.
Fine Japanese dining located in the elegant Westin Prince Hotel. Chefs dazzle and delight with their teppanyaki-style cooking right at the table. For a premium wagyu experience, order the A4 wagyu sirloin cooked teppanyaki style. @VYR 4PSSZ 9K ;VYVU[V >LZ[PU 7YPUJL /V[LS Â&#x2039; Â&#x2039; ^^^ RH[Z\YH restaurant.com
Kingyo Izakaya This izakaya is parked in the heart of Torontoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cabbagetown. Here you can try the stone-grilled Kobe-
) >PUJOLZ[LY :[ ;VYVU[V Â&#x2039; Â&#x2039; ^^^ kingyotoronto.ca
Miku Restaurant Miku proudly states its philosophy as Ningenmiâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; [OL JVUJLW[ VM Ă&#x201E;UKPUN QV` in life by bringing joy to others. What could be more enjoyable than a mouthful of meaty and delicious wagyu nigiri sushi? )H` :[ H[ 8\LLUÂťZ 8\H` ;VYVU[V Â&#x2039; Â&#x2039; mikutoronto.com
Shoushin Put your trust in the chef at
Shousin with the omakase selections. Saying â&#x20AC;&#x153;omakaseâ&#x20AC;? to the chef is tantamount to saying â&#x20AC;&#x153;surprise me.â&#x20AC;? Shousinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kiku omakase selection includes wagyu beef prepared expertly by the chef, sure to surprise and delight. @VUNL :[ ;VYVU[V Â&#x2039; Â&#x2039; www. shoushin.ca
Zen Japanese Restaurant ALU VÉ&#x2C6;LYZ \W JLY[PĂ&#x201E;LK A5 Hida wagyu raised in Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gifu Prefecture. Hida beef features the silky marbling characteristic of Japanese Black cattle wagyu, but it is additionally bred and fattened for at least 14 months. At Zen you can choose to enjoy wagyu as steak, shabu-shabu or sukiyaki. >VVKIPUL (]L Markham Â&#x2039; Â&#x2039; zenjapaneserestaurant. com
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Interview | Master butcher Noriaki Numamoto
By Nicholas Jones
THE SYMPATHETIC BUTCHER Mr. Numamoto credits his skill to his respect for the animals he butchers. After watching his expert butchering demonstration at Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse (see page 30), we sat down with master butcher Noriaki Numamoto to ask him some questions about how he got his start and his advice for enjoying wagyu beef.
How did you decide to become a butcher? I was a very strong-willed young person who liked to challenge authority, and I refused to change the way I looked for any job. It turned out the only place that would employ me with the blonde and blue hair I had at the time was an abattoir, so thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where I started my career. Despite my tough attitude, I felt a lot of sympathy for the animals that were brought to the abattoir. I made the decision that, if I had to take the lives of these animals, I was going to do it with respect: using a technique that was quick and caused them the least suffering possible. The care and respect I showed in my work caught the attention of my superiors, and I was soon promoted to the position of butcher.
That experience and motivation sounds almost Zen-like. Did you carry that respectful approach over into your work as a butcher? Absolutely. As you could see in my demonstration, I work very hard to preserve as much of the meat from an animal as possible. When I do this, I am motivated by the same respect as I was in my days at the abattoir. The animal gave its life so that we can eat, and I want to respect that sacrifice by not letting any part of it go to waste. It reminds me of an expression we have in Japanese: mottainai. It means that we feel regret when anything is wasted. In North America, butchers and chefs seem to focus on the prime cuts of meat. They cook only these and discard the rest. I try to use everything I can from an animal, even if simply to create broth to flavour a curry or soup.
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so much flavour in the meat that you only need a small amount to appreciate it. Also, there are so many more ways to enjoy wagyu than just as a steak. I hope that North American chefs can embrace this and learn to use smaller amounts of meat to enhance a wider range of dishes.
Is there anything that you think Japanese chefs could learn from their North American counterparts? I would like to see more Japanese chefs experimenting with the idea of fusion cuisine. In Japan, tradition is very powerful, and it can sometimes be challenging to change or experiment with traditional recipes. However, here in North America chefs are adventurous, and they experiment with combining traditional and nontraditional ingredients to great effect. For example, in New York I was served soba noodles paired with truffles and red wine. I would never have thought to serve soba in that way, but it was delicious!
What about Canadian cuisine specifically? Have there been any Canadian meals that have really stood out for you during your visit?
So, in addition to the concept of avoiding waste, is there anything else Canadian chefs could learn from Japanese cuisine?
I have been really impressed by beef from Prince Edward Island, particularly with the masterful way it is prepared by Chef Danny at Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse.
One thing that has surprised me about North America is how large and thick the cuts are when chefs are preparing dishes like steak. When we are working with wagyu, there is
Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts with us. It was my pleasure!
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Ingredient | Hakusai
By Sarah Dickson
is an essential ingredient not just in nabe, but in a number of winter foods in Japan such as gyoza or cabbage rolls. In fact, if you’ve eaten at a Chinese or Japanese restaurant, there is a pretty good chance that you’ve already tried it. Hakusai is also the primary ingredient in the Korean culinary staple, kimchi.
多くの料理に似合う冬の野菜は 似合う冬の野菜は 低カロリーでヘルシー。
If you’ve ever been to any of the Asian grocers around town, no doubt you’ve seen hakusai available for sale. This long, leafy vegetable with its pale yellowy-green and white hues is relatively easy to distinguish from most forms of lettuce and other cabbages. Hakusai is a cruciferous vegetable, making it a closer relative to broccoli VY JH\SPÅV^LY [OHU [V V[OLY SLHM` NYLLUZ 0[ PZ believed that when hakusai emerged several centuries ago in China, it was the result of a natural cross between pak choi, another leafy vegetable popular in Asian cuisine, and turnip.
Don’t forget this must-have green vegetable at your next nabe night!
Agriculturally speaking, winter is the best season for hakusai, which is why it is a staple in winter comfort foods. In fact, it is believed that the frost MYVT JVVSLY [LTWLYH[\YLZ THRLZ [OL ÅH]V\Y VM hakusai even more enjoyable. And like most leafy vegetables, hakusai is low in calories and rich in nutrients. It is particularly rich in vitamin C, THRPUN P[ H WLYMLJ[ ]LNL[HISL [V ÄNO[ Vќ [OVZL seasonal symptoms that come with the colder weather. It is also incredibly inexpensive, especially from November through February, which is peak season for this widely enjoyed vegetable.
For those of us living in a climate with frosty winters, nothing beats the feeling of hot soup on a freezing cold day. But in Japan, there is nothing better than snuggling up under a kotatsu (heated table) around a bubbling communal bowl of delicious hot soup called nabe. That’s because for the Japanese, eating nabe goes beyond simply warming up with a bowl of hot soup, but is itself an event that provides an opportunity to connect over a delicious meal. However, before calling your friends over to
At the grocery store, it is not unusual to see hakusai cut in half and wrapped in clear plastic wrap, which preserves freshness; it should be stored the same way once you get it home. When shopping for this nutritious vegetable, make sure it feels heavy and that the leaves are crisp with bright white ribs to ensure you are getting VUL ^P[O [OL ILZ[ ÅH]V\Y /H]L HU` hakusai leftovers after your nabe night? Try it tossed with noodles, cooked in a stir-fry or even shredded as coleslaw.
HAKUSAI 白白菜
【はくさい】
Winter’s best culinary hack
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gather around the donabe (nabe pot), there is one ingredient to get that is absolutely essential in a good nabe: hakusai. The popularity of nabe has contributed to making hakusai one of the most consumed vegetables in Japan. This is especially true with the winter season now upon us, when hakusai can be easily found alongside donabe pots everywhere. Known more commonly in English as Chinese cabbage or napa cabbage, hakusai
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Sake | Sho Chiku Bai Premium Ginjo
By Nina Lee
高品質のカルローズ米を磨き低温発酵 北米で最も人気のある吟醸酒は 米国宝酒造の独自の発酵技術を使用。
Sho Chiku Bai 松竹梅プレミアム吟醸
【ぷれみあむ ぎんじょう】
Premium Ginjo A bold, complex sake that will tantalize your tastebuds without compromising your wallet.
F
or those of us who aren’t studied experts, the subtle flavours of sake are often lost on us, making it difficult to appreciate the nuances of the drink. But Sho Chiku Bai Premium Ginjo is not subtle. Its enticing aromas evoke green banana, papaya and Bartlett pear, while its smooth silkiness fills your palate with multiple layers, building flavour and warmth upon flavour again. While this Ginjo finishes with a slightly sharp, astringent aftertaste, it is still quite pleasant to continue sipping. This sake is authentic, without the alcohol-ish or overly distilled aftertaste that plagues many sake. We tried this premium Ginjo on its own, following the manufacturer’s suggestion to serve it lightly chilled. Afterwards, we put the sake through its paces, enjoying it at room temperature with sushi, teriyaki and a variety of snacks. This sake works—it is pleasant to drink on its own, but would be an equally pleasant addition to a wine
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tasting or to accompany a fine meal. It also pairs surprisingly well with sesame, and would probably make a lovely accompaniment to Korean dishes as well. California has begun producing great Japanesestyle sushi rice that creates lovely, full-bodied sake like this one, which is made by Takara USA Inc., in Berkeley, California. While such sake is typically made in Japan from the finest rice that has been milled and polished to remove a third of its casing, extracting the aroma and floral notes normally associated with Junmai Ginjo, this sake goes above and beyond. This premium Ginjo uses techniques normally associated with the highest grade of sake, Daiginjo, milling and polishing the rice to half of its original size to enhance the rice’s aromatic fragrances and give it a bold presence. Straddling the two styles while also using innovative techniques with special yeasts that ferment at lower temperatures
result in a sake that is a complex addition to any evening. Takara USA Inc. has given this lovely, fullbodied sake a beautiful package. The frosted bottle is adorned with a blossom painted in the sumi-e style. And at $11.55 CDN, this Premium Ginjo compares surprisingly well with more expensive sakes. Look for Sho Chiku Bai at your favourite sushi restaurant, and experience nigiri, maki and sashimi the way they were meant to be enjoyed: with a Premium Ginjo to complete the meal.
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Travel | Kumamoto
By Nina Lee
KUMAMOTO Castles, mascots, samurai, volcanoes, hot springs, horses, distilleries, art galleries, lush gardens ... what else could you want in a city? Welcome to Kumamoto, both a city and a prefecture, located at the centre of the southern island of Kyushu. The region has been inhabited since paleolithic times, while the city has been home to KHPT`ͻ feudal lords, samurai and ninjas—and more recently mascots, enka singers, athletes and artists. 16
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Upon arriving at Kumamoto Station, `V\»SS UV[PJL [OL MHTV\Z 2\THTV[V Qͻ or .PUUHU Qͻ (ginkgo nut castle), in the distance—named for an ancient ginkgo tree planted on the grounds in 1600 that continues to blossom to this day. While it was heavily damaged during the April 2016 earthquake, the castle continues to beckon tourists and locals to marvel at its beauty, best seen from Sakura-no-Baba Johsaien Castle Town, Kato Shrine or the Ninomaru Park at the base of the castle. The inner grounds, main tower, foundation walls and roofs are currently being repaired, and the main tower is expected to open again in early 2019. When restored, 2\THTV[V Qͻ ^PSS YPZL VUJL HNHPU SPRL H black egret and captivate visitors with its jet-black ceramic roof tiles, gold leaf ceilings and beautiful painted shoji screens. Ninomaru Park boasts several art museums, craft centres and festivals, as well as year-round performances.
日本三名城の 熊本城が見下ろす、 緑あふれる熊本の街。
Afterward, hop on a retro tram, in operation since the 1920s, for a tour of the city. The tram links all of the main destinations in KuTHTV[V! 2\THTV[V :[H[PVU 2\THTV[V Qͻ the Contemporary Art Museum, Suizenji Jojuen Garden, Ezu Lake and the shopping arcades. Hop off at the Suizenji Jojuen Garden, a traditional Japanese garden with lush landscapes that will take you back in time. The garden is built along a circular path and recreates the Tokaido, an important road connecting Edo with Kyoto during the Edo period. Keep an eye out for the mini Mt. Fuji! Walking south along the river will bring you to Ezu Lake, divided into two parts: Kamiezu and Shimoezu. Japanese cities rarely boast large bodies of water within their boundaries, and as such, the citizens of Kumamoto make good use of their fortune—birdwatching and fishing are popular activities, with rowboats and paddleboats available for rent. T h e l a k e i s a l s o b o u n d e d b y a
Experience history, delectable delights and sparkling lakes
Basashi Basashi, perhaps Kumamoto’s most famous dish, are slices of pink-marbled raw horsemeat sashimi served ice cold with minced ginger, garlic or wasabi and a delicate soy sauce.
p ro m e n a d e , a large park, a zoo and botanical gardens. If eating and shopping are more your style, Kumamoto is famous for both—Higo Koryu, the tea ceremony practiced by samurai, can be experienced at the Suizenji Jojuen Garden’s teahouse. You’ve no doubt heard about Kumamoto’s signature dish, basashi (馬刺し)—raw horsemeat sashimi. The shopping arcades, Kamitori and Shimotori Shotengai, are enclosed street markets, with numerous video game arcades, shops, bars and restaurants, while Kokai Shotengai, Kaminoura-dori, Sunroad Shinshigai and Namikizaka-dori are traditional market streets. Here, hungry visitors will find a variety of delicious foods—from horsemeat served grilled or raw to Kumamoto ramen, a hot, delicious soup made with pork broth, garlic and chewy noodles, and even vegetarian dishes like karashi renkon (fried lotus root
served with mustard and miso paste). The area also offers the ideal elements to make potent shochu—this distilled libation is a perfect companion to any meal, and a wonderful treat to bring home afterward. Finish your trip with a relaxing soak at Ueki Onsen. This onsen (hot spring) features numerous baths, from outdoor lagoons overlooking waterfalls and tropical plants to large stone baths, and even steaming hot sand baths by the river. Located just outside of Kumamoto City, and accessible by bus, Ueki Onsen sits surrounded by serene rice paddies on the Koshi River. The mildly alkaline waters are known to provide soothing relief for muscular-, nerve- and joint-based aches and ailments. A perfect way to conclude your trip to Kumamoto.
KUMAMOTO 【熊本】
Kumamoto is located on the shores of Shimabara Bay on the island of Kyushu. Less than an hour from Fukuoka by shinkansen (bullet train), the city enjoys warm, subtropical temperatures year-round.
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Interview | Drum TAO
By Walter Muschenheim
LIVING TO THE BEAT Drum TAO’s new rhythm-driven spectacular will make your heart race.
Drum TAO produces dynamic performances that combine the powerful rhythm of Japanese taiko drumming with explosive choreography, martial arts and acrobatics. The group has performed at the 2010 Vancouver Olympics and in front of millions of fans worldwide. In February they will be bringing their new show, Drum Heart, to the Sony Centre for their third Toronto performance. Bento Box met up with veteran performer Taro Harasaki to learn about life as a member of Drum TAO. The show looks physically demanding—how do you maintain your physical condition? It’s necessary to train every day to maintain the best body condition for being onstage. We have several training methods including running 12 kilometres in the morning and doing push-ups and sit-ups. Playing the drum is considered hard training, so we beat drums for an hour without breaks. Do you get very tired during performances? There is no time for us to feel tired during the show. We always feel an adrenalin rush because we are so busy switching the position of props and instruments during the performance. Since we have to do everything on our own, we also unload our instruments and props to the stage, 18
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set up the stage and load out after the show. When I shut the truck’s door after putting all the equipment away at the end of the show is the moment I feel most exhausted!
admired TAO since they were little and they have been practicing their skills in their hometown with dreams of becoming a top player.
Have you ever been injured during a show?
What is it like rehearsing and training with the troupe?
It wasn’t during the performance. In the beginning when I [first joined] TAO, I broke my neck while I was carrying the 30-kilogram drum at practice. I went home right away for recovery. Since I couldn’t move because I had a plaster cast on my neck, I practiced flute every single day. It is a funny story now.
Our hometown is located in the highlands so there is less oxygen than usual. That makes training even harder than you think. Since the training is so hard some trainees have run away during the night! Also before the tour of a new show, we do an intensive practice. You can hear the drumbeats all day long.
What is it like to be on an international tour?
Are you involved in creating the performances?
The best thing about going on an overseas tour is we get a chance to see landscapes and scenery you won’t be able to see in Japan, to feel other languages, cultures and different perspectives. We enjoy meeting enthusiastic fans who have different backgrounds than [ours]. Especially fans from North America as they are the most enthusiastic! How did you first become interested in joining TAO? My motivation for joining TAO was I thought there would be a bright future ahead of me! I joined TAO 13 years ago and back then, absolutely no experience of Japanese drums was required. However, TAO’s younger generation of drummers’ motives are different. Their drumming skills are extremely high, they have
Gradually I’m becoming a part of the creative team especially for the comedic parts. I can’t wait to show off my sense of humour to Toronto fans! Do you have a professional role model that you look up to? I admire the performances of Jim Carrey and Robin Williams who have both a sense of humour and intelligence. Since I play shamisen (Japanese three-stringed guitar), I also respect violinist Fernando Suarez Paz’s musical expression. I also get a lot of inspiration from Cirque du Soleil. TAO Drum Heart is coming to the Sony Centre for the Performing Arts on Saturday, Feb. 3, 2018. Tickets are available now. www.sonycentre.ca
Only in Japan | Lucky rice cakes
By M Crowson
Pile on the luck!
Ring in the new year with some traditional kagami mochi. 歳神様を迎え入れる鏡餅。伝統的な日本のお正月。
with other fruits and vegetables, a fan or decorative paper.
Illustration by Chieko Watanabe
You’ve seen them in Japanese supermarkets, konbini and food stalls: white, snowman-like piles with an orange for a head, bringing good luck to all—these are kagami mochi (鏡餅). Translated literally, you might call them “mirror rice cakes,” and they’ve been a part of Japanese tradition since medieval times. But what are they, exactly? The name comes from kagami mochi’s resemblance to a special kind of copper mirror that was popular back in the day.
Now, the mochi’s often wrapped in a thin film of plastic to preserve the cakes, which gives off a shiny, mirror-like cheerfulness. Kagami mochi come in different sizes and prices, but a basic one is made up of two glutinous rice cakes stacked on top of each other, with the larger cake on the bottom. This double stack is topped with a daidai (橙), a bitter citrus with a stem and a dark green leaf. Depending on how much you spend and what region you live in, your kagami mochi might also be adorned
Displaying kagami mochi in your home is a classic way to welcome the new year. The mochi is thought to be infused with toshigami (年神): Shinto spirits that will bring all kinds of luck into the year to come, like a good harvest, blessings from ancestors and the power of life. People usually display at least one kagami mochi on a special stand at their Shinto altar or the tokonoma, an alcove in a house’s main gathering room. Each piece has symbolic meaning. The cake is a symbol of good fortune—doubling the cakes means double the goodness—and it also symbolizes years past and years to come. T h e n a m e o f t h e o r ang e is a h o m onym for “generations” (代々), so it symbolizes t h e f u t u re g e ner atio ns o f y o u r f a m ily. Sometimes the whole thing is displayed on a sheet of kombu (dried kelp), a symbol of joy and pleasure. All that good luck gets absorbed on January 11, Kagami biraki, or “opening kagami” day, when you “open” the mochi by breaking it into pieces, cooking it and eating up all those good vibes. Some people celebrate the breaking with a big party, while others keep their breaking low-key. Many people cook the pieces into zenzai, a sweet red bean soup, though styles vary from region to region.
The great mirror of etiquette If there’s a supermarket near you selling kagami
DO NOT
DO
DO NOT
eat before the 11th.
bring good fortune to every room.
cut with a knife.
Kagami mochi are meant to be displayed until the big day, ZV RLLW `V\Y TP[[Z Vќ [OL TPYYVY
Starting at ¥200, kagami mochi are H M\U HUK HќVYKHISL ^H` [V ZWYLHK luck throughout your home.
When “opening” day comes, use a hammer or your hands. Cutting with a knife has unlucky connotations.
mochi, get out there and grab some for your home! Just remember to follow these three rules.
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1-Day Snow Monkey Tour
Round-trip from Tokyo
1 Visit the Jigokudani Monkey Park, a world-famous park where Japanese macaques can be seen up close as they freely soak in hot springs. The hot spring baths here are exclusively for wild monkeys, the only baths of their kind in the world. Enjoy seeing the monkeys’ charming expressions while they relax in the hot springs. 2 Visit the Zenko-ji Temple, a designated National Treasure built roughly 1,400 years ago. Along with the Todai-ji Temple’s Great Buddha Hall, it is one of Japan’s most remarkable wooden structures. 3 Just a shinkansen ride from Tokyo Station! An interpreter guide will meet participants at Nagano Station.
TOUR BASIC INFORMATION Departure city: Tokyo ¦ Visits: Nagano Tour: November 24, 2017 – March 30, 2018 (Monday, Wednesday and Friday only) Duration: Approx. 13 hours Includes: English-speaking guide, lunch, other admission fees and transportation costs included in the tour
PRICE
CAD $
330
All photos ©JNTO
HOW TO PURCHASE
*Price is valid for the month of January 2018 *Price may fluctuate monthly due to change in exchange rate
Reservations can be made by either telephone or email. Please contact JTB International (Canada) Ltd. at Phone: 416-367-5824 | Toll-free: 1-800-268-5942 | Email: jtbtoronto@jtbi.com | Website: www.jtb.ca
ITINERARY 06:5007:40
Go from Tokyo Station (or Ueno Station) to Nagano Station
120
08:30- Arrive at Nagano Station 09:20 Meet with the interpreter guide on the platform at Nagano Station.
12:30
Walk to Jigokudani Monkey Park
14:10 13:20
Zenko-ji Temple
40
min
This is a hard walking tour covering about 40 minutes of walking each way between the Roman Museum parking lot and Jigokudani Monkey Park.
Depart from Nagano Station to Zenko-ji Daimon
10:10
Depart from Zenkoji Station
Head to the parking lot of the Roman Museum (no entry to the museum) from which visitors walk to the Jigokudani Monkey Park.
Board a shinkansen on your own from Tokyo Station.
09:40
11:40
min
40
Jigokudani Monkey Park
50
min
11:00
Japanese-style Lunch The meal for lunch includes soba (buckwheat) noodles, a Nagano specialty. As traces of buckwheat flour may be present in the entire shop, those with buckwheat allergies should not enter.
40
min
15:00
Visit the Jigokudani Monkey Park, a world-famous park where Japanese macaques can be seen up close as they freely soak in hot springs. This is the only place in the world where wild Japanese macaques can be seen bathing in their own designated hot spring. Enjoy seeing the amusing expressions of the monkeys up close as they warm themselves in a relaxing hot spring bath.
40
min
Go from Roman Museum Parking Lot to Tokyo Station
min
Visit Zenko-ji Temple, which boasts 1,400 years of rich history. Its main hall is a designated national treasure.
Depart from Jigokudani Monkey Park
Leave for Nagano Station
16:20- Depart from Nagano Station 17:15 Head to Tokyo Station via shinkansen.
18:00- Arrive at Tokyo Station 19:00 Tour ends at Tokyo Station.
*Please note that special accommodations for those with trouble walking will not be provided. Small children will not be allowed to participate in the tour. The walking path may be frozen and slippery if there is snow. Please wear winter boots or other non-slip footwear. The temperature in the area in winter averages about -1°C. Please dress accordingly. **The behaviour of wild monkeys is unpredictable. The park might be closed to visitors in case the monkeys do not come down to the park from the mountains. The tour may be cancelled on the day before tour departure in such cases. A full refund will be issued if the tour is cancelled.
For more information, please contact JTB International at 1-800-268-5942 (toll-free) or email at jtbtoronto@jtbi.com www.bentoboxmag.ca
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salon bespoke 2 floor
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By M Crowson
Hit the books | Japanese food culture
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Food and Fantasy in Early Modern Japan
More by the authors
Japan’s Cuisines: Food, Place and Identity
by Eric Rath Hungry for more than just a belly full of sushi? Let Eric Rath take you on a thoughtful, historical journey through Japanese food culture.
Author info
Eric Rath is a Professor of Japanese History at the University of Kansas and a leading expert on Japanese food culture. He is also the co-editor with Stephanie Assman of Japanese Foodways, Past and Present, and regional editor for The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets.
In 2013, UNESCO designated washoku (和食), “traditional Japanese cuisine,” as an intangible cultural heritage, marking Japan’s 22nd appearance on the list. January is a time when many Japanese tend to eat more traditionalstyle foods than Western-style, so you may be seeing many more mentions of washoku in your news feed, and more artful Instagram photos for your food-viewing pleasure. But what is Japanese food, really? Most of us are familiar with several of Japan’s marquee dishes, like sushi rolls, sashimi and tempura. These scrumptious plates have caused many of us to obsessively seek out the best new izakaya and high-end sushi haunts to feed our foodie needs. But if you’re craving a deeper understanding of this much-loved national cuisine, feed your mind with a book by historian Eric Rath—or pick up a copy for an epicurious friend. Rath’s Food and Fantasy in Early Modern Japan takes readers on an adventure through the pre-history of modern Japanese cuisine, showing us how its social and symbolic nature developed over time, eventually transforming into 28
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the food we eat today. After a broad overview, he spends two chapters exploring personal cookbooks by medieval “men of the carving knife” (包丁人), personal chefs for aristocrats and members of the imperial court, who created elaborate ceremonial cuisine for their well-heeled guests at banquets. The chefs also became the entertainment during “knife ceremonies,” ^OLU [OL` ^V\SK ZSPJL \W SHYNL J\[Z VM ÄZO [V create visual food-art for an audience of fancy onlookers. Such dishes were often meant for display rather than consumption, and Rath explores the spiritual and artistic meaning behind these cultural practices. In the next two chapters, he introduces readers to food culture in the age of the samurai, the era when leisurely entertainment and artistic practice spread beyond the aristocracy and out to everyday folk. In this period, professional chefs, like the medieval carvers, continued to write books—but now they published those records, and they had competition from nonprofessional foodies interested in developing a new kind of popular food culture. The author shows readers how these food-based
Discover how the tea ceremony came to be the origin of Japanese cuisine, how lunch became gourmet and how rural regions are asserting their own local food cultures. Ranging from the role of the tea master to bento boxes, from medieval banquets to the spread of Western food, this fascinating book reveals how Japanese food shapes national, local and personal identity.
books fantasized whole new worlds through the symbolic importance of food, whether it be a foreign culture imagined through Iberian-inspired YLJPWLZ VY ÄJ[PVUHS YLJPWL IVVRZ [OH[ SL[ `V\Y everyday Joe lose himself in a fantasy banquet— kind of like a Barefoot Contessa for eighteenthcentury audiences. ;OL ÄUHS JOHW[LYZ L_WSHPU OV^ TLU\Z ILJHTL aspirational lifestyle models encouraging people to take more risks and more pleasure in their eating habits, and how weird food names, like Solid Gold Soup, added a poetic feel to everyday consumption. These quirky, fun, creative publications helped inspire a truly foodie culture, centuries before Japanese food became a UNESCO-designated cuisine. Rath gives his readers an expanded vision of “Japanese food,” introducing us to a time when that category included not just sushi, but also crane, dog, otter and feathery-winged K\JR 0[»Z [OL WLYMLJ[ IVVR MVY HU` OPZ[VY` I\ќ with good taste.
G O Let's
llearn earn
N I H O N G O
easy JJapanese apanese
Going to the ski slopes When winter has turned the world around you into a snowscape, many people want to head off to ski slopes. Japan’s snow country is no exception, so grab your equipment and let’s practice some Japanese while carving powder with your friends.
Intermediate You are a good skier!
Sometimes it is convenient to put two sentences together. Kad˴ka (かどうか, whether or if) can be used to combine two sentences where the first one is a yes or no phrase.
スキーが上手ですね！ SkĦga jĿ zu desune!
What is the difficulty of this ski run? このゲレンデの難易度は どうですか? Kono gerendeno nan’idowa dĿdesuka?
Do you know whether Jon snowboards or not?
Beginner J˴zu (上手, good at something) is a useful term to remember to compliment others. E.g.: Ry˴riga j˴ zu desune! (料理が上手ですね！ You are good at cooking!)
ジョンさんがスノボを するかどうかしってる？ Jon-sanga sunobo wo suruka douka shitteru?
Advanced Here is another useful term for advanced learners. Nan’ido（難易度, degree of difficulty）is often used when you ask how difficult something is. E.g.: Kono shikenwa nan’idoga takai desuka? (この試験は難易度が高いですか?, Is this exam very difficult?)
Compiled by Kris Szabo and Kozumi Miya-Woolford. Brought to you by the Toronto Japanese Language School | www.tjls.ca | @tjlsca | info@tjls.ca
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By Nicholas Jones
Event | Wagyu demo
Wagyu beef from the hands of a master Master butcher Numamoto prepares the holy grail of Japanese food.
L
ast month Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse opened its doors to a very special guest: Japanese master butcher Noriaki Numamoto. In front of a crowd of influential Toronto butchers and restaurateurs, Mr. Numamoto demonstrated how to cut and prepare the Japanese culinary wonder that is wagyu beef. Even those with no butchering experience in the crowd were drawn in by the graceful, methodical way that Mr. Numamoto transformed a massive top sirloin and bottom sirloin into their various cuts. His unique style of butchering, as he explained it, involves understanding the structure of the meat so that he can use his knife not to cut the beef but rather to encourage it at points where it would naturally separate. He has become so skilled in this style of butchering that he can feel exactly where his blade is in the meat and stop his cuts just before his knife touches the cutting board! However, this artful demonstration by Mr. Numamoto was only half the fun. It would be a pity to waste such masterful cuts of meat, so as each cut was finished Jacobs & Co.’s executive chef Danny
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McCallum whisked them away to the kitchen. He returned with samples, perfectly prepared in a number of different ways: from the light searing you’d expect of a quality steak, to slices of wagyu carpaccio dressed with salt and yuzu. If you’ve never tried wagyu beef, it is an experience worth seeking out at one of the handful of Toronto businesses licensed to prepare or serve it. The sirloin cap or Ichibo, as Mr. Numamoto referred to it, is the most prized cut. When perfectly cooked by a talented chef like Mr. McCallum, the texture of the meat is somewhat surreal to behold. It quite literally melts in your mouth, giving a mouthfeel closer to delicate sashimi— but with all of the flavour of perfectly marbled beef, seasoned simply with salt and pepper. The best place to experience wagyu beef for yourself would be Jacobs & Co. Steakhouse, where it is regularly available on the menu and the chefs are experienced in its preparation. If you’d like to try your own hand at cooking wagyu, head to licensed retailer FãMu Natural Meats in J-Town.
“ Kobe beef vs. Japanese wagyu beef: What’s the difference?” “Kobe beef” is a familiar term in North America, but the term “wagyu” is less known. Seiko-san, from J-Town’s FãMu Natural Meats, explained to us the difference between these terms. The best way to understand the distinction is by comparing the beef to sparkling wine. Japanese wagyu beef is like champagne: sparkling wine produced in the Champagne region of France under strict regulations related to production and quality standards. Though each Japanese prefecture can produce its own type of beef, it must adhere to strict regulations to be classified as wagyu (such as cows being genetically 100% wagyu, with an ancestry that can be traceable up to three generations). In our champagne example, there are champagnes that stand out as the most exclusive types, like Dom Pérignon. Kobe beef is a similarly exclusive type of meat produced in Hyogo Prefecture, and it is seen as the Dom Pérignon of Japanese wagyu. Hyogo’s qualification and product transport systems are very strict, meaning every party—from breeder to retailers and restaurants—must be qualified and registered. When it comes to wagyu beef produced outside of Japan (and things like kobe-style or wagyu-style meat), these products are similar to sparkling wines. Though individual producers may adhere to strict quality standards for their meat, their quality and processes are not strictly regulated like their Japanese counterparts.