Japanese Culture | Hot Spots | Products
| Food TM
Mar. 2018
No. 37 FREE www.bentoboxmag.ca
Everything you need to know
to enjoy this famous dish
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Contents March 2018 No.37
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Rich, savoury and world-renowned
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Feature: Ramen crash course
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Restaurant : Konjiki Ramen
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Ingredient: Bitter fukinotou
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Sake: Tatenokawa
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Travel: Jigokudani Monkey Park
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Event: TMAC Japanese Munch and Mingle
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Only in Japan: Girls’ Day
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Event: Yayoi Kusama exhibition
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Movie: Before We Vanish
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:[HɈ 7PJR 9LZ[H\YHU[! A healthy indulgence
EDITOR’S NOTE
Nina Hoeschele
.L[[PUN [V [OL IV[[VT VM [OL IV^S Toronto is no stranger to ramen: our city is blessed with a vast selection of it. But what exactly goes into a bowl of ramen—and what is it about this dish that gets people lining down the block? If you’ve ever asked yourself these questions, this month’s feature is a ramen crash course that’ll make you an expert in no time. Dig in and get slurping!
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Editors Nina Hoeschele, Amanda Plyley, Yumi Nishio Editorial coordinators Nina Hoeschele, Yumi Nishio Writers Amanda Plyley, Amanda Taylor, James Heron, M Crowson, Nina Lee, Nicholas Jones, Sarah Dickson, Walter Muschenheim, Yumi Nishio Designers Chieko Watanabe, Midori Yamamoto 7OV[VNYHWOLY Kazu Maruyama Advertisement & marketing Kazu Maruyama 7\ISPZOLY Kazu Maruyama
Bento Box Communication Inc. | 3003 Danforth Ave. PO Box 93628, Toronto M4C 5R4 Phone: 416-964-0981 | www.bentoboxmag.ca | Email: info@bentoboxmag.ca
ISSN 2368-9153
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Feature
LSL]H[L `V\ [V [OL SL]LS VM H[ SLHZ[ ¸YHTLU HÄJPVUHKV ¹ PM UV[ [OL LZ[LLTLK [P[SL VM ¸YHTLU L_WLY[ ¹
Here’s everything you need to know about ramen, and maybe some facts you’ve never considered. By Nicholas Jones
Though it might not be [OL ÄYZ[ KPZO [OH[ WVWZ [V TPUK ^OLU [OPURPUN HIV\[ MHTV\Z 1HWHULZL MVVKZ YHTLU»Z J\SPUHY` MVV[WYPU[ OHZ NYV^U ZPNUPÄJHU[S` PU [OL >LZ[ PU YLJLU[ `LHYZ I\V`LK I` P[Z LY\W[PVU VU[V [OL 5L^ @VYR MVVK ZJLUL [OYV\NO WYVTPULU[ YLZ[H\YHU[Z SPRL 4VTVM\R\
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3L[»Z Z[HY[ I` HUZ^LYPUN ZVTL IHZPJ X\LZ[PVUZ! ^OLU HUK ^OLYL KPK HSS [OPZ UVVKSL ` THKULZZ Z[HY[& (UK ^OH[ THRLZ H IV^S VM UVVKSL ZV\W ramen& +LZWP[L P[Z KLLW YVV[Z PU [OL J\SPUHY` WHU[OLVU VM 1HWHULZL JVTMVY[ MVVKZ YHTLU PZ H MHPYS` YLJLU[ HKKP[PVU [OH[ ^HZ PTWVY[LK MYVT *OPUH ;OL KPZO NHPULK WVW\SHYP[` PU [OL Z HUK » Z VU [OL IHZPZ VM [OL ULJLZZHY` PUNYLKPLU[Z ILPUN YLSH[P]LS` JOLHW HUK WSLU[PM\S PU WVZ[ ^HY 1HWHU
VM ZHS[ :WYPUN` JOL^` HSRHSPUL UVVKSLZ HYL HKKLK HUK [OL`»YL [VWWLK ^P[O ZSPJLZ VM JVVRLK TLH[ HUK H ZLSLJ[PVU VM ]LNL[HISL NHYUPZOLZ ;OL ÄUPZOLK IV^S PZ ZLY]LK WPWPUN OV[ HUK J\Z[VTLYZ HYL LUJV\YHNLK [V ZS\YW [OLPY ^H` [V [OL IV[[VT ILMVYL P[ JVVSZ
:LLTZ WYL[[` Z[YHPNO[MVY^HYK YPNO[& /V^L]LY ^P[O YHTLU [OL KLSPJPV\ZULZZ PZ YLHSS` PU [OL KL[HPSZ 3L[»Z Z[HY[ I` IYLHRPUN ;OL YLJPWL HZ [OL 1HWHULZL OH]L KV^U HSS [OL ]HYPL[` WVZZPISL PU [OL WLYMLJ[LK P[ PZ WYL[[` ZPTWSL 0[ MV\Y ZPTWSL PUNYLKPLU[Z [OH[ THRL Z[HY[Z ^P[O H MH[[` HUPTHS IHZLK \W H IV^S! IYV[O ÅH]V\Y UVVKSLZ IYV[O ^OPJO PZ M\Y[OLY ÅH]V\YLK ^P[O ZWPJLZ HUK H WHY[PJ\SHY ]HYPL[` HUK [VWWPUNZ
;OPZ LY\W[PVU OHZ ILLU TPYYVYLK PU [OL ;VYVU[V MVVK ZJLUL ^OLYL ^L»]L ILLU HIZVS\[LS` ZWVPSLK MVY JOVPJL ^OLU P[ JVTLZ [V YHTLU YLZ[H\YHU[Z HUK UL^ NHZ[YVUVTPJHSS` HJJSHPTLK ramen-ya ZLLT [V IL VWLUPUN L]LY` TVU[O /V^L]LY ^P[O ZV THU` YHTLU YLZ[H\YHU[Z V\[ [OLYL P[ JHU IL [V\NO [V NL[ `V\Y OLHK HYV\UK HSS [OL ]HYPV\Z Z[`SLZ HUK ]HYPH[PVUZ VM YHTLU VU VɈLY (UK `V\ TH` HZR `V\YZLSM ^OH[ HSS [OL M\ZZ PZ HIV\[ 0 TLHU [OPZ PZ noodle soup ^L»YL [HSRPUN HIV\[ YPNO[& /V^ T\JO YVVT PZ [OLYL MVY PUUV]H[PVU& 0U H ^VYK& Tons 6]LY [OL JV\YZL VM [OPZ HY[PJSL 0 OVWL [V KPZ[PSS KV^U [OL `LHYZ 0»]L
;OL 1HWHULZL SV]L MVY YHTLU Y\UZ ZV KLLW [OH[ MVSRZ HYL OHWW` [V ZS\YW \W ZVTL UVVKSLZ ^OLYL]LY [OL` MPUK [OLTZLS]LZ SPRL H[ VWLU YHTLU JV\U[LYZ VY [OLZL Z[HSSZ PU [OL /HRH[H KPZ[YPJ[
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Shoyu
Broth Even with the freshest noodles and most intriguing toppings, a bowl of ramen can only shine with a solid choice of broth for its IHZL ;OPZ PZ ^OLYL [OL YLHS J\SPUHY` HSJOLT` ÄUKZ P[Z ^H` PU[V [OL dish, as each restaurant combines its own unique blend of protein and spices to stew for hours until the perfect delicious umami ÅH]V\Y PZ \USVJRLK
Pork Also known as tonkotsu, this thick, rich option is the gold standard of ramen bases.
Don’t confuse this with table soy ZH\JL" [OPZ ÅH]V\Y THRLZ [OL Z[VJR darker and sweeter.
Miso (KKZ TVYL VM H \UPX\L ÅH]V\Y [OHU shio or shoyu, making a complex, opaque broth.
Shio ( SPNO[ ÅH]V\Y [OH[ PZ ZSPNO[S` ZHS[PLY than the other options and leaves the broth clearer.
Chicken A lighter alternative to pork that can still bring a satisfying depth VM ÅH]V\Y
Seafood The most curious option that can provide pleasantly delicious surprises.
Noodles The real stopping power of a bowl of ramen is its noodles, which provide the solid carb hit that leaves you feeling full. Though noodles alone might not make or break your bowl, every ramen chef will tell you that it’s best to slurp your noodles up immediately (and loudly!) as there’s nothing sadder than waiting until they’ve gone soft and saggy.
RAMEN STYLES The perfect bowl of ramen balances four essential ingredients: broth, flavour, noodles and toppings.
Flavour Ramen’s saltiness comes from the ÅH]V\YPUN JOVZLU I\[ `V\ JHU HSZV learn a lot of the history of the dish through its salt. The oldest form of seasoning is shio (salt), which is now most popular in the region around Hakodate. Shoyu (soy sauce)ÅH]V\YLK YHTLU PZ [OL UL_[ VSKLZ[ originating from Yokohama. Finally, miso (fermented soybean paste) ramen was born in the 1960s—inspired by Hokkaido’s cold climate.
Toppings Though ramen chefs express their creativity by tweaking their toppings, any self-respecting bowl usually includes two or three of the following garnishes.
Noodles come in thick and thin varieties, and a quality noodle should always be springy with a little chewiness.
Bean sprouts
Chashu
One of the two fresh staple toppings, this one adds the crunch to ramen.
Delicious fried pork belly: an absolute musthave for your basic bowl.
Scallions
Ajitama
A pop of vibrant green onion, and a vain attempt at pretending you’re eating vegetables.
These tender, seasoned, soft-boiled eggs with custard-like yolks serve as ramen’s “cherry on top.”
Experiment at home
Life hack: Creating ramen noodles from spaghetti 06
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Though the idea of this makes ramen purists cringe, if you’re looking to make ramen at home but find yourself without the necessary springy noodles, try this workaround.
Directions
Ingredients
3. Add spaghetti when the bubbling of the soda has stopped.
Water – 4 cups Baking soda – 1 tablespoon Spaghetti noodles – 80 g (3 oz.) Salt – a pinch
1. Boil water—just like you would to make pasta. 2. Very gradually add 1 tablespoon of baking soda.
4. Watch closely, because baking soda can get very bubbly. 5. Strain and add to broth.
Determined to try for extra credit in our ramen expert crash course? Learn about some of the trends taking ramen to the next level.
STYLES BY Region HaKATA Famous for its creamy, rich tonkotsu pork ramen and strong-flavoured toppings like wood-ear mushrooms and spicy mustard greens.
New ramen trends With all those styles and regional variations on ramen, you’d think we’d completely covered the subject. However, there exist some further schools of ramen that are innovating on the classic dish. These are some of the most recent variations.
HOKKAIDO Miso-flavoured ramen is a favourite in the north, often topped with corn, cabbage and a gob of butter.
While you can find ramen across Japan, some regions have their own twists on the dish.
Ie-kei: Originating in Yokohama, ie-kei ramen is customized to your tastes, letting you choose the broth thickness, noodle texture and oil content.
TOKYO This chicken-based ramen PZ \Z\HSS` ÅH]V\YLK ^P[O a combination of shoyu, KYPLK ZTVRLK IVUP[V ÅHRLZ and kelp.
Jiro-kei: Eats like a meal ... and then some: this unique ramen recipe offers a gravy-like broth, thick, white noodles and big slabs of rough-cut meat.
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CHAMPON Hailing from Nagasaki, this hearty, stew-like dish sees thick noodles boiled in a pork and seafood soup.
A Japanese take on a Sichuanese favourite, featuring ground pork, spinach, bok choy and lots of fiery spices.
TAn Tan MEN
Oodles of noodles! Though not ramen, exactly, these variations on the noodle soup are just as popular.
Abura soba All the ramen goodness with no soupy mess: this is just noodles and strongly ÅH]V\YLK VPS·SPRL YHTLU carbonara.
Tsuke men Ramen, deconstructed—this dish is served as one bowl of noodles and one bowl of broth in which to dip them.
Hiyashi chuka In an unexpected twist, this noodle dish is dressed in a light vinegar and soy-based sauce and served cold.
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stops on the tour Continue your ramen journey through Toronto with these other variations. Hokkaido Style
Santouka
Santouka started with a single shop in Hokkaido and has grown to a number of locations around the world, including Toronto’s very own location on Dundas Street. Santouka features Hokkaido-style shio ramen, and a special salad ramen dish that is unique to the shop’s Canadian locations. +\UKHZ :[ , ;VYVU[V ‹ ^^^ santouka.co.jp/en
Generous toppings are piled on each steaming bowl of rich, Hakata-style ramen.
Tokyo Style
Have you slurped up all the noodles from your ramen, only to be faced with an empty sea of broth still waiting to be enjoyed? Never fear. At Hakata Shoryuken you can order kaedama, or extra (refill) noodles, to top up your bowl for $1.99.
Kyouka Ramen
Warm up with a hot bowl of Hakata ramen
Regional ramen tour Like any other Japanese dish, ramen’s regional varieties are numerous and subtly diverse. Within ;VYVU[V `V\ JHU Ă„UK ]HYPL[PLZ MYVT areas like Tokyo and Hokkaido. But when Takuma Shimizu opened his shop in 2014 in the midst of Toronto’s “ramen boom,â€? he noticed something missing from Toronto’s ramen landscape: Hakata ramen, originating from his hometown of Fukuoka, Japan. He made a call to his friend back home in Japan, a chef, who moved to join him in Toronto—and Hakata Shoryuken was born. The secret to Shoryuken’s own special ramen broth (or tonkotsu) is that it
By Sarah Dickson
takes 20 hours to reach perfection, resulting in a rich texture that is thicker than the usual ramen broth. Shoryuken’s Hakata ramen also features melt-in-your-mouth chashu pork, cooked to the point when the meat is just about to fall off the bone. Diners can also choose smoked chashu, which is placed in a smoker fuelled by wood chips from cherry blossom trees. For extra-hungry patrons, Mr. Shimizu suggests trying the “Chashu Lover,� featuring seven delicious slices of chashu pork instead of the usual two. While Hakata ramen is Shoryuken’s
Hakata Shoryuken @VUNL :[ 5VY[O @VYR ‹ ‹ ^^^ OHRH[HZOVY`\RLU JVT
ZWLJPHS[` [OL TLU\ VɈLYZ V[OLY WVW\SHY ramen styles like spicy tan tan men. It HSZV VɈLYZ H ]LNL[HYPHU YHTLU VW[PVU alongside traditional Japanese favourites like karaage, edamame and takoyaki. The menu is full of unique toppings to personalize your dish including the exceptionally spicy ghost pepper, which Mr. Shimizu recommends, but says should be ordered on the side for the uninitiated!
Kyouka, where they strongly encourage slurping, features Tokyo-style ramen. The chefs work diligently to adhere to the original recipe developed by founder Mr. Machida, whose pioneering LɈVY[Z OH]L SLK [V H YHTLU revolution in Japan. Beaches: 2222 Queen St. E., Toronto ‹ Markham: >VVKIPUL Ave., Markham ‹ ‹ kyouka.ca
Mye 2 Mye 2 was founded in 1987 in Oakville by Executive Chef Motoaki Aoki, who moved to Canada from his hometown of Tokyo by invitation from the mayor of Oakville. Mr. Aoki brought with him a commitment to H\[OLU[PJ 1HWHULZL ÅH]V\YZ including Mye’s own porkbelly ramen. +\UKHZ :[ , 6HR]PSSL ‹ ^^^ mye2restaurant.com
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Hot Spot | Konjiki Ramen
By Walter Muschenheim
AN INSTINCT FOR BALANCE Chef Yamamoto follows his own intuition to create unique, world-renowned ramen.
Spicy Red Tonkotsu Ramen Made for bold North American palates, this rich soup OHZ H ÄLY` RPJR
Shio Clam Broth Ramen The milder of the two clam broth ramens, Shio Clam is a good introduction to 2VUQPRP 9HTLU»Z ZPNUH[\YL ÅH]V\Y
Hungry for more? Let’s dig in!
Konjiki Ramen founder Chef Atsushi Yamamoto chose Toronto as the location of his first restaurant outside of Japan because he had a good feeling about it. This trust in his instincts has characterized his whole career. His choice to pursue ramen and his distinctive use of clam broth were both spontaneous decisions that have led to great success. His original restaurant opened just outside of Shibuya in 2006 with just eight seats and quickly earned praise and a place in the Michelin Bib Gourmand. The modern dining room of the Toronto location is open and airy, but the décor is muted and minimal, allowing you to focus on your food. Clearly, the ramen is meant to take centre stage; the menu even encourages you to take a moment to appreciate the soup with all of your senses before taking the first sip.
Shoyu Clam Broth Ramen Strong, earthy and unique, Shoyu Clam showcases Konjiki Ramen’s distinctive style.
The signature clam pork broth uses cherrystone clams from the west coast. It is rich and earthy, but still well-rounded. Strong flavours that are also somehow delicate are a recurring theme—the menme bamboo shoots are another good example. Bamboo has a distinctive flavour that can come across as somewhat sharp, but at K on j i ki , t he red- wine- b ra i se d sh oot s lose their sharpness while keeping t h e i r dist inct ive flavo u r. Th e n oodl e s u se Canadian flour for an al dente, slightly nutty effect. The chashu pork is prepared sous-vide, with a cut that is not too fatty, and is satisfying without being overwhelming.
Vege Ve ege g tariian Ram men Only available in Toronto, the Vegetarian Ramen is rich, comforting and restorative on a cold day.
With a focus on the balance of flavours, Chef Yamamoto’s cooking remains open to change. In Toronto, he saw an opportunity to experiment with new local ingredients and create new variations on his ramen. The Vegetarian Ramen is one such creation for the Toronto location. Its flavour profile is entirely unique and doesn’t shadow any of the clam-based broths. Instead, Yamamoto found a way to showcase potato and soymilk. Olive oil and delicious pickled beet add brightness. I asked Yamamoto to tell me one thing he would like patrons to know. He said that he hopes people will first try every single part of the ramen individually, then enjoy how the ingredients combine and how the flavour keeps evolving until the finish.
Konjiki Ramen 5051 Yonge St., North York (near North York Centre Station) 647-350-7766 | konjikiramen.com OPEN: Daily 11:30 am–10 pm
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Ingredient | Fukinotou
By Amanda Plyley
or grocery store, fukinotou is ready to be prepared in one of two typical ways: as fukimiso or as fukinotou tempura.
春の到来を知らせる小さな芽。
FUKINOTOU 蕗の薹【ふきのとう】
Build me up, butterbur Springtime in Japan is synonymous with this curious plant, and it’ll leave you feeling bitter—in a good way? It’s been a long winter, hasn’t it? Icy roads, freezing temperatures and gusts of wind that cut like a knife are no stranger to many of us in North America and Asia alike, but the good news is that we’re nearing the end. March often signals a transition period when the white begins to fade away and the green gradually makes an appearance again. So this month, it’s the perfect time to discover something new—like fukinotou. Native to Japan, China and Korea but also found in parts of Europe, fukinotou is no ordinary herb. Also called butterbur or sweet coltsfoot, it’s a perennial plant known
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to most Japanese as a member of the sansai (mountain vegetable) family and is a welcome (albeit somewhat bitter) addition to springtime diets. Thriving in wet, shady and relatively cool conditions, fukinotou can typically be found growing on mountainsides and in creek beds through the late winter and early spring months, each enormous leaf fanning out like the surface of a wide-brimmed hat. (Unsurprising then that its species name, Petasites japonicus, is derived from the Greek “petasos” or a felt hat traditionally worn by shepherds.) Once plucked from the ground
To begin making either dish, peel and discard the leaves, then wash the buds and stalks to remove any dirt. Consider blanching or boiling them in salted water or water with baking soda to pre-emptively remove some of the bitterness (a process called aku-nuki—literally “harshness removal”). For fuki-miso, slice the buds in half and boil them in a pot with miso, mirin (sweet rice wine) and a pinch of sugar or tablespoon of honey to create a deliciously bittersweet companion to rice dishes. For fukinotou tempura, chop the stalks into bite-sized pieces and coat each one in a batter of flour, potato starch and water. Heat oil in a pan until it bubbles and then add the stalks. Don’t go anywhere because in 10 to 20 seconds they’ll be ready to come out! Salt, let dry and then bask in their crispy, oily goodness. While fukinotou has been sought out as a healer of a multitude of ailments in the past— PUÅHTTH[PVU HZ[OTH HSSLYNPLZ HUK OLHKHJOLZ to name a few—it’s crucial to note that this green must be consumed in moderation. Like other Petasites plants, fukinotou contains alkaloids linked to liver damage; one such alkaloid, petasitenine, is a known carcinogen. Preparation methods like blanching or boiling to remove bitterness are commonplace and work to remove alkaloids, but butterbur beginners should take note: this is one veg that should not be eaten raw. This month, before winter is truly behind us and spring is in full swing, stop by your local Asian market to see if they have fukinotou in the produce section. Japanese immigrants introduced the plant to British Columbia, so it’s not unheard of to see it for sale in Canada. Grab a few friends and try some bitter buds with your (hopefully not-so-bitter) buds.
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Sake | Tatenokawa
By Amanda Plyley
山形県オリジナルの酒造好適米 「出羽燦々」 で作る幅があり、 まろやかな純米大吟醸
TOP OF ITS CLASS 楯野川 【たてのかわ】 Tatenokawa If you’ve been searching for the perfect sake, look no further than the castle with the bubbling brook.
Nestled among mountain ranges, flowing streams and vast rice fields on Japan’s west coast, Sakata is an unassuming city approximately six hours north of Tokyo. A charming town of roughly 100,000 people, Sakata takes obvious pride in its key strengths: agriculture and fishery—you won’t go hungry here! Surrounded by the natural beauty of the Yamagata region, the city offers bountiful fish markets, scrumptious seafood restaurants and—to top it all off—a premier sake brewery with a growing local and international reputation: Tatenokawa.
Founded in 1854 by the lord of the local Shonai clan, Tatenokawa (“Castle Brook”) has always made it its mission to produce some of the country’s finest sake. But when its current president, Sato Junpei, took the reins in 2001 he found that sales were lacking and the brewery needed a bit of a boost. Leading a young team of sake enthusiasts, he made the decision 10 years ago to dedicate the company’s production wholly to one product: Junmai Daiginjo— the A-lister, the VVIP, the best of the best in classes of sake. The move paid off. Featuring locally grown Dewasansan rice polished to 50% and the never-ending fresh water that flows through lush, hilly Yamagata, Tatenokawa’s trademark Nakadori is a light, semi-sweet sake with a robust flavour and balanced acidity. With fruity hints of pear, cherry and apple, it pairs perfectly with sushi and sashimi and leaves a refreshing aftertaste that’ll have you wanting more. Best served cool to get that true wintry mountainous feel!
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Eager to try it? You’re in luck. This chilly sake is a hot commodity at the LCBO—find it there, or visit this year’s Kampai Toronto, Canada’s largest sake festival. Held in the Distillery Historic District, the festival sells out every year as it brings together hundreds of sakes from dozens of breweries and delectable dishes to taste-test to your heart’s content. Tatenokawa will be in attendance at this year’s festival, ready to delight your tastebuds with Nakadori and other premium Junmai Daiginjo offerings. Expect to find a lively scene of music, crafts and other activities celebrating a shared appreciation for all things sake taking over the district’s cobblestone streets on May 31. See you there, sake lovers.
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Travel | Jigokudani Monkey Park
J
da u k o ig
By Nina Lee
n i Ya e n -K oen
ニホンザルと、見つつ見られつ露天風呂。
Go face to face with the Japanese macaques of Jigokudani Monkey Park in their natural hot spring habitat.
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Snow falls gently as I walk through the serene Kanbayashi Onsen (hot spring) town. It’s mid-morning, but the streets are quiet and empty save for the few people journeying to Jigokudani Yaen-Koen, or Jigokudani Monkey Park. Walking along tree-lined streets I pass piles of firewood, izakaya restaurants emitting savoury smells and inns with steam billowing from their roofs, and soon arrive at the park entrance. The winding trail leads me through snow-covered forests along the Yokoyu River and beneath the shadows of the surrounding mountains. I hear the monkeys before I see them, coos and yips intermixed with the gurgling of the hot springs. Emerging from the trees, the trail leads to bridges crossing the river and over a large, steaming pool bounded by rocks. Along the trail and amid the rocks, little furry yellowish mounds shake and stretch, opening their mouths wide while grooming one another with wrinkled
hands and feet. These are Japanese macaques, commonly known as snow monkeys, and they are the main attraction at this park. Since the 1950s, humans have been visiting this secluded area near Nagano to watch the crimson-faced macaques bathe in the local hot springs. During the winter months, the monkeys are drawn from the cold, snowy mountains to soak in the warm waters of the region known as Jigokudani, or Hell’s Valley. The troops of monkeys meander among their human visitors throughout the year, but prefer to stay in and around the hot springs when the weather turns chilly. Located about 40 minutes from Nagano Station by bus, and then another 40 minutes spent walking down the trail, the park attracts researchers, nature lovers and photographers to watch wild monkeys in their natural habitat. Visitors often report seeing Japanese
See wild monkeys in scenic hot springs
serow (a type of goat-antelope), squirrels, hogs, deer, hares, mice and bats in the valley, while nocturnal creatures such as foxes, tanuki (Japanese raccoon dogs), badgers, martens, minks and even flying squirrels are known to frequent the area at dusk. Most travellers visit the region in the winter, when the monkeys frolic and play in the water, but locals recommend visiting the park all year round. Monkeys often come down from their mountain respite to enjoy treats left by the park wardens, and romp with one another to the delight of their human guests. Flowers and cherry trees bloom along the river in the spring and summer, while apples, peaches, grapes and blueberries ripen in the local orchards during the autumn months. Bicycling is a popular activity in the area, and you’ll often see locals and tourists cycling from onsen to onsen, past farm fields, through
valleys and along hiking trails. Nestled between ski resorts, the region is blessed with many onsen in the nearby towns: Kanbayashi, Shibu and Yudanaka. As I leave the monkeys behind, I can still hear them calling out to one another to return to the balmy hot spring. As I turn back and take one last photo, my foot slips and my boot fills with snow. Regaining my balance, I decide to follow their lead and have a soak in a hot spring on my way back. A warm and toasty end to an enchanting day.
NAGANO 【長野】
Located about an hour northeast of Nagano City, Jigokudani Monkey Park is nestled among the forests and snowy hills of the Yokoyu River Valley.
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Event | TMAC Japanese Munch and Mingle
By Amanda Taylor
MIXING and MINGLING
for a Toronto tour of Tok yo Tokyo Tourism hosted the Travel Media Association of Canada at Ki restaurant, the perfect venue to celebrate Tokyo’s present and past.
The Official Tokyo Travel Guide aims to showcase the multiple facets of Tokyo’s unique culture in order to introduce travellers to its one-of-a-kind megalopolis. On January 23, 2018, Tokyo Tourism hosted TMAC (the Travel Media Association of Canada) for a mix and mingle centring on the theme of Tokyo Old and New—a celebration of Tokyo’s rich history and current technological prowess. There was no better place for the event than Ki Modern Japanese + Bar, which takes traditional Japanese cuisine and gives it a contemporary twist.
fashion stems from the teens in costumelike couture who have made Harajuku their haunt.But the presentation also highlighted famous areas in Tokyo that may not be as well known outside Japan. This includes Asakusa, where the new Tokyo Skytree Tower soars above ancient Sensoji Temple, and Ueno, which juxtaposes the modern shopping centres of the city with museums full of Japanese history. Mr. Shin Kawai, representative for Tokyo Tourism, introduced minglers to the tradition of otoshidama, or New Year’s money. Normally otoshidama is for children, but a few lucky winners took home $200 and $300 cash toward future travel to Tokyo, among other fantastic prizes. Next was a menu specially prepared for the event, brilliantly encompassing the concept of Tokyo Old and New. Fusion sushi—featuring twists like fresh kiwi—and tart matcha cheesecake showcased Ki’s signature take on modern Japanese cuisine.
At this Japanese Munch and Mingle, travel professionals were treated to New Year’s presents, Japanese tapas and a sake tasting. The meetup started with an overview of some of the distinct neighbourhoods that make up Tokyo. Most people know Harajuku by reputation if not by name; Tokyo’s notoriety as a Mecca for over-the-top street 18
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Rounding out the event was a sake tasting facilitated by Michael Tremblay, head national sake sommelier for Ki restaurant. A flight of various sake brands and grades allowed attendees to get a wide sampling across the gamut. Tremblay provided overviews of each bottle of sake on deck,
complete with explanations on where each sake was from and how the type of rice used affected the flavour.
For more information on what to do in and around Tokyo, visit the Official Tokyo Travel Guide at gotokyo.org/en.
tokyotokyo.jp Official Tokyo Travel Guide
gotokyo.org Visit the Tokyo Brand website to plan your next trip and connect with the many exciting experiences this city has to offer.
TOKYO PULSES WITH IDEAS THAT CONNECT THE OLD WITH THE NEW
gotok yo.org
Only in Japan | Hina Matsuri
By M Crowson
Hina Matsuri
Celebrate girl power the way Japan does with the annual Girls’ Day. 女子の健やかな成長を願う桃の節句。でも出しっぱなしは行き遅れる!?
These tiny dolls were strung together and hung from the ceiling as decoration.
Illustration by Chieko Watanabe
March is the month for Hina Matsuri, or “Girls’ Day,” the day when parents of girls display a set of beautiful dolls in their homes to wish for the health and success of their children. The dolls are usually laid out sometime in February in preparation for the official day, March 3. These dolls wear decorative robes similar to the ones worn by the graceful women of the ancient Imperial court, and they come in all sizes and price points. The most ornate displays include dozens of dolls arranged on a seven-layer platform, with the highest-status dolls on the top tier, and the whole group surrounded by detailed accessories, like paper lanterns and lacquer drawers. Simpler sets include just
the emperor and empress, which are also the two most important dolls. A long time ago, paper cut-outs of these doll figures were placed on small river boats and sent out to sea each year. This tradition is known as Hina nagashi, or “Doll Floating.” This was done to ward off any curses or diseases, which could be transferred to the dolls through special rituals. Of course, not everybody could afford to purchase fancy dolls. For the common folk, families invented another way to celebrate Girls’ Day: tsurushi bina, tiny dolls made of kimono pieces that were sewn into all kinds of shapes, including flowers, animals, vegetables and babies.
Both of these traditions still exist today in some form. You can still see the Doll Floating tradition at places like Wakayama’s Awashima Shrine, where, after the ceremony, all the dolls are collected and burned. Tsurushi bina are now often lovingly handmade by mothers or grandmothers and hung from the ceiling, an umbrella or a branch. And even though dolls are more affordable for everyday folks, many families these days tend to be practical, choosing smaller sets that better fit their lifestyles, whether it be in small-scale houses or apartments. Families also like to decorate their homes with peach blossoms, which typically bloom right around the holiday. And when the festival is done for the year, families store the dolls away, taking them out in February and putting them away on March 4. Like living members of the family, the dolls stay with each girl until they reach adulthood. Hina Matsuri also comes with all sorts of delicious food. Chirashizushi, or “scattered sushi,” is the most common, a delicious combination of veggies, egg and seafood scattered over sushi rice. You can also find an array of tasty desserts, like hina arare, sweet rice crackers, and the girls themselves are presented with desserts in celebration of this special day. Desserts are also placed ILMVYL [OL KVSSZ HZ HU VќLYPUN HUK [OL MHTPS` spends the day together.
Get some girl power Want to throw a Hina Matsuri for your own little girls? Just follow these simple rules.
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DO
DO NOT
DO
take the dolls down on March 4.
play with the dolls.
celebrate with boys.
Leaving them up any longer could bring bad luck for your girls.
Despite appearances, these dolls are ceremonial only!
No need to leave them out! Why not toast your male children with drinks and snacks?
14. 25
16. 50
14. 25
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Tokyo’s Best
Cherry Blossom Spots Tour
1 Visit Tokyo’s most popular cherry blossom viewing sites on this 1-day bus tour. The tour includes visits to some of Japan’s most famous cherry blossom viewing sites including Showa Kinen Park, Shinjuku Gyoen or Chidorigafuchi, as well as sightseeing around some of Tokyo’s most iconic landmarks such as Tokyo Tower. 2 Inside Showa Kinen Park, admire a scenic landscape formed by roughly 200 cherry trees and an expansive lawn. When in season, tulips and rapeseed blossoms can also be seen blooming radiantly. 3 Shinjuku Gyoen was created for the Imperial Family. French, English, and Japanese-style gardening all show their characteristics at this spacious garden which is representative of modern Western-style gardens cultivated in Japan in the Meiji period (1868-1912). 4 Head up 150 metres to the Tokyo Tower observation deck to take in the never-ending cityscape and the stunning carpet of cherry blossoms down below. 5 For lunch enjoy a meal of authentic Japanese cuisine at a traditional-style restaurant. Have a relaxing time and get away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
TOUR BASIC INFORMATION Seasonal Tour: Mar 21 – Apr 15, 2018, Daily
Departure city: Tokyo | Visits: Tokyo Duration: approx. 7 hours English-speaking guide, lunch, other admission fees and transportation costs included in the tour.
PRICE
CAD $
130
*Price is for month of March 2018 *Price will fluctuate monthly based on exchange rate.
HOW TO PURCHASE Reservations can be made by either telephone or email. Please contact JTB International (Canada) Ltd. at Phone: 416-367-5824 | Toll-free: 1-800-268-5942 | Email: jtbtoronto@jtbi.com | Website: www.jtb.ca
ITINERARY 8:40
Showa Kinen Park
Depart from Keiko Plaza Hotel, Shinjuku
The interpreter-guide or a staff member will conduct check-in. The bus will depart at 8:50. *Customers who are late for the departure time will have their bookings cancelled.
Shinjuku Gyoen
90
min
The entire park is home to approximately 1,500 cherry trees that bloom in full glory. Inside, there is a vast garden with a beautiful landscape formed by roughly 200 cherry trees amidst an expansive lawn. There is also a bridge from where rows of cherry trees can be seen lining the river.
60
min
Opened in 1906, Shinjuku Gyoen is a Japanese garden created for the Imperial Family. When spring comes, 65 varieties of cherry trees bloom proudly throughout a long period. Those who missed the cherry trees’ peak blooming times can still enjoy cherry blossom viewing here.
Lunch Enjoy an authentic meal of Japanese cuisine at Mumonan, a restaurant located in a former Japanese-style inn or ryokan. Lunch Menu: Appetizer, hors d’oeuvre, fried dish, sashimi, simmered dish, seasonal mixed rice, pickled vegetables, miso soup and dessert.
Tokyo Tower Main Observatory
60
min
Enjoy a bird’s-eye view of cherry blossoms! See a sweeping panorama of the city from 150 metres above the ground. *An additional admission fee is required to access Tokyo Tower’s Special Observatory. Those who plan on entering must pay the required charges at the location.
Lunch Menu: Appetizer, hors d’oeuvre, fried dish, sashimi, simmered dish, seasonal mixed rice, pickled vegetables, miso soup and dessert. *The actual menu may vary due to seasonal and daily availability of ingredients. *The dining venue may be changed depending on facility circumstances. *Requests for vegetarian meals must be made at least 5 days before the tour departure date. Please note that requests made any later cannot be accommodated. *Allergy-friendly meals, etc. are not available.
For more information, please contact JTB International at 1-800-268-5942 (toll-free) or email at jtbtoronto@jtbi.com www.bentoboxmag.ca
All photos ©JNTO
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Event _ <D\RL .XVDPD ,QÀQLW\ 0LUURUV
By Yumi Nishio
Canada’s only
YAYOI KUSAMA EXHIBITION T
he Canadian showing of the Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors exhibition will be held at the AGO starting this month. Explore the evolution of the celebrated Japanese artist’s immersive infinity rooms, and the most significant North American tour of her work in nearly two decades.
Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors provides visitors with the unique opportunity to experience six of Kusama’s most iconic kaleidoscopic environments at once, alongside large-scale, whimsical installations and key paintings, sculptures and works on paper from the early 1950s to the present. It also marks the North American debut of numerous new works by the 87-year-old artist, who is still actively creating in her Tokyo studio. These include large-scale, vibrantly coloured paintings and the recently realized infinity 24
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room, All the Eternal Love I Have for Pumpkins (2016), featuring dozens of her signature bright yellow, dotted pumpkins. About the exhibition Organized in rough chronological order, Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors begins with the artist’s milestone installation Infinity Mirror Room—Phalli’s Field (1965/2016), a dense and dizzying field of hundreds of red-spotted phallic tubers in a room lined with mirrors.
A selection of more than 60 paintings, sculptures, works on paper and more will also be on view, showcasing many of Kusama’s lesser-known collages, made after her return to Japan in 1973. These works trace the artist’s trajectory from her early surrealist works on paper, Infinity Net paintings and Accumulation assemblages to recent paintings and soft sculptures, highlighting recurring themes of nature and fantasy, utopia and dystopia, unity and isolation, obsession and detachment, and life and death.
The exhibition will also include Infinity Mirror Room— Love Forever (1966/1995), a hexagonal chamber into which viewers will be able to peer from the outside, seeing coloured flashing lights that reflect endlessly from ceiling to floor. The work is a recreation of Kusama’s legendary 1966 mirror room Kusama’s Peep Show (no longer extant), in which the artist used to stage group performances in her studio in the late 1960s. Kusama’s signature bold polka dots will be featured in Dots Obsession—Love Transformed into Dots (2009), a domed mirror room surrounded by inflatables suspended from the ceiling. More recent spectacular LED environments, filled with lanterns or crystalline balls that seem to extend into infinite space, will be represented by Aftermath of Obliteration of Eternity (2009) and Souls of Millions of Light Years Away (2013).
Yayoi Kusama: Infinity Mirrors March 3–May 27, 2018 TICKETS — AVAILABLE ONLINE ONLY The next block of tickets goes on sale starting March 6 at 10 am. Tickets are sold online only. For more details: ago.ca/exhibitions/kusama
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By Yumi Nishio
Event | Canadian International Autoshow
Ca
AU T
The biggest and best auto show in Canada was held at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre from February 14 to 25. The event saw large crowds gathered to experience the many attractions on offer throughout, including over 1,000 cars, trucks, exotics and classics that were displayed in a 650,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art facility. This year, the 50th anniversary of Hot Wheels was celebrated with a collectors’ zone. A master track and life-sized Hot Wheels cars appeared at the show’s kids’ play zone. Car lovers also flocked to an impressive showcase entitled “70 Years of Porsche.” As one of the most iconic names of the automobile industry, Porsche used the showcase to display the evolution of the company over the past 70 years to the 26
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nal
nternat I n a i io nad
OSHO W
present. Visitors enjoyed a breathtaking selection of classic and historically significant Porsche models. Japanese automotive manufacturers were a big part of the show as well. Mazda Canada was there celebrating its 50th year. The company’s history was on display alongside its legendary vehicles as well as super cars with cutting-edge technology. Green technology was also on display at the show: Nissan, Honda and Mitsubishi offered free test drives in their electric vehicles, as did BMW, Fiat-Chrysler, Mercedes-Benz, Mitsubishi, Hyundai and Volvo. One of the new features at this year’s show was the Automotive Intelligence Series,
a public education series designed to help provide insight into some of the most important subjects that will shape the future of driving. Topics such as potential impacts of cannabis legalization on driving in Canada were discussed in a series of seven 60-minute panel discussions that were held over the 10-day show.
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Film focus | Before We Vanish
By James Heron
A quiet, quizzical invasion By turns hilarious, thrilling and profound, Before We Vanish reminds audiences of the continued strength of one of Japanese cinemaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most unique auteursâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and the value of the human spirit.
MOVIE INFO Before We Vanish (2017)
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Director: Kiyoshi Kurosawa Starring: Masami Nagasawa, Ryuhei Matsuda, Hiroki Hasegawa and Mahiro Takasugi Screenplay: Kiyoshi Kurosawa and Sachiko Tanaka Running time: 129 minutes Based on a theatrical play by Tomohiro Maekawa 0U OPZ [O MPST 2P`VZOP 2\YVZH^H YLPU]LU[Z [OL HSPLU TV]PL HZ H \UPX\L HUK WYVMV\UKS` human tale of love and mystery. Three aliens travel to Earth on a reconnaissance mission in preparation for a mass invasion.
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hat does it mean to be human, to possess a human soul? These are not answers we typically look for in alien invasion films. But of course, auteur director Kiyoshi Kurosawa is anything I\[ [`WPJHS 0UP[PHSS` SHILSSLK HZ H W\Y]L`VY VM UPOPSPZ[PJ OVYYVY ^P[O Ă&#x201E;STZ SPRL Pulse and Cure), he expanded beyond the genre with the brilliant family drama Tokyo Sonata and the French period piece Daguerreotype. His new film, Before We Vanish, plays like a Japanese Invasion of the Body Snatchers, albeit with a gentler, more philosophical bent. After going missing for several days, Shinji (Ryuhei Matsuda) mysteriously reappears, acting nothing like his former self. His estranged wife 5HY\TP 4HZHTP 5HNHZH^H Ă&#x201E;UKZ [OL UL^ :OPUQP calmer and kinder than before, something which only serves to exasperate her further. Awkward, physically uncertain and unable to grasp basic O\THU JVUJLW[Z OL HKVW[Z H IPaHYYL UL^ KHPS` routine of strolling around the neighbourhood and engaging strangers in deep, conceptual conversations for no apparent purpose. Elsewhere in town, a family is brutally murdered. A schoolgirl stands over the corpses, tasting [OL ISVVK VU OLY Ă&#x201E;UNLYZ 1V\YUHSPZ[ :HR\YHP (Hiroki Hasegawa) begins to investigate the 28
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A Japanese Invasion of the Body Snatchers, albeit with a gentler, more philosophical bent
odd circumstances of the killing. He learns that the killer Akira, the teenage daughter of the victims, has gone missing. A young man called Amano approaches Sakurai asking him to be his â&#x20AC;&#x153;guide.â&#x20AC;? He explains that he, Shinji and Akira are aliens, on Earth to NH[OLY PUMVYTH[PVU HUK HJJSPTH[PaL [OLTZLS]LZ in preparation for an impending invasion and extermination of the human race. Soon a ZOHKV^` NV]LYUTLU[ VYNHUPaH[PVU OHZ VJJ\WPLK [OL [V^U 4PSP[HY` OLSPJVW[LYZ HUK KYVULZ Ă&#x201E;SS the skies, the world spirals toward apocalyptic chaos, and Sakurai and Narumi each struggle to understand what is happening.
Both thematically and narratively, Before We Vanish PZ H ]LY` I\Z` Ă&#x201E;ST 0[ PZ HSZV \UJOHYHJteristically humorous, particularly in the opening half. The byplay between Nagasawa and Matsuda is light and genuinely funny while the reactions of those robbed of their â&#x20AC;&#x153;conceptsâ&#x20AC;? by the alien agentsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;through a simple onefinger tap to the foreheadâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;is, amusingly, one VM QV`V\Z YLSPLM HZ [OL I\YKLU VM [OLPY KLĂ&#x201E;UPUN ILSPLMZ PZ SPM[LK (Z [OL Ă&#x201E;ST LU[LYZ P[Z ZLJVUK OHSM [OL mood darkens considerably, Kurosawa ratchets
up his signature sense of dread and impending violence, and the emotional stakes take on an unbearable intensity. ThroughV\[ [OL HSPLUZÂť IHŃ&#x17E;LK X\LZ[ [V understand fundamental humanity challenges the audience to pose the ZHTL X\LZ[PVUZ [V [OLTZLS]LZ
Kurosawa effectively taps into the current climate of global unease. But the pervasive doom is leavened in the hope-tinged ambiguity of a climax involving a dramatic, unexpected act of altruism and love by Narumi. Before We Vanish PZ UV[ HU LHZ` Ă&#x201E;ST [V JH[LNVYPaL I\[ VUL [OH[ ^PSS IV[O LUNHNL [OL PU[LSSLJ[ HUK X\PJRLU the pulse. Kurosawa is back with his strongest Ă&#x201E;ST VM [OL KLJHKL Kurosawa also created an acclaimed TV mini-series based on the same play by Tomohiro Maekawa but MVJ\ZPUN VU H KPŃ&#x153;LYLU[ ZL[ VM JOHYHJ[LYZ MHJPUN the same invasion scenario. The theatrical cut, called Forebodingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;The Movie, also received rave reviews in Japan and will premiere at this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Toronto Japanese Film Festival. Before We Vanish is currently in select cinemas and will be screened at the Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre on March 29.
G O Let's
llearn earn
N I H O N G O
easy JJapanese apanese Intermediate
I am going to graduate from university in March. 3月に大学を卒業します。
Kimono is a traditional Japanese garment. Hakama are skirts used to cover kimono bottoms. ‘object A+かobject B+かどちら’ means ‘either A or B.’ E.g.: A ka B ka dochiraga sukidesuka? (A かBかどちらが好きですか？ Do you like either A or B?)
Sangatsuni, daigakuwo sotsugyo shimasu.
Should I wear either a kimono or a hakama at the graduation ceremony?
Beginner Normally, we translate ‘from~’ into ‘~から.’ However, in this case, ‘graduate from~’ is translated into ‘~を卒業します ’ E.g.: K˴k˴wo sotsugy˴ shimashita ( 高校を卒業しました I graduated from high school.)
卒業式に着物かはかまか どちらを着ようか？ SotsugyĿ shikini kimono ka, hakama ka dochirawo kiyouka?
University graduation In Japan, the new school year starts in April, meaning that the students must celebrate their university graduation in March. At the graduation ceremony, many students wear traditional Japanese clothing such as a kimono or a hakama. Finally, Shaon-Kai are parties thrown by students for the teachers to thank them for teaching.
All of the teachers and students decided to go to the Shaon-Kai (graduation party). 教師と生徒全員が謝恩会に 出席することにしました。 KyĿshi to seito zen-inga Shaon-Kaini shusseki surukotoni shimasita.
Advanced The kanji for Shaon-Kai is: 謝恩会, where 謝恩 means “thank you”. ~Decided to do = ∼ことにしました E.g.: Sukˢni ikukotoni shimasita ( スキーに行くこと にしました。I decided to go skiing.)
Compiled by Andrea Levac and Mitsugu Nobumasa. Brought to you by the Toronto Japanese Language School | www.tjls.ca | @tjlsca | info@tjls.ca
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ntt taste indulgen Mango Mveocgahin and gluten-free but are If you li this Mkoec Japanese ch hi Cake eesecake is for yo , u Walter Muschenheim
Staff
Walter is a Toronto-bas W ed translator and writer. A real globetrotter , he has lived in France, Germany and the United States and explored Euro pe and Japan. O On his adventures, he loves to learn about languages and food: the two co cornerstones of culture!
A healthy indulgence HCafe is bringing the Japanese tradition of low-fat treats and nutritional ingredients to the Toronto food scene. n an unassuming corner of the Emerald Building at Yonge and Sheppard, you’ll find something that you can’t find anywhere else in Toronto.
I
“As far as I know, we are the first to do Mochi cake in Canada,” HCafe owner Hiro explains. “It’s not well-known in Japan either.” The multi-layered, fruit-filled cake is a new take on an old Japanese tradition: mochi. Made with a special type of rice and traditionally combined with ingredients like red beans, green tea, black sesame and ginger, mochi is a well-loved Japanese treat that Hiro wants to bring to the novelty-hungry, health-conscious tastebuds of Toronto. HCafe opened last summer with the goal of introducing more Japanese sweets to Canada, and showing Torontonians that
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Japanese sweets can be both tasty and healthy. It now has two locations: one on Main Street in Unionville and the other at Yonge and Sheppard, minutes from the TTC. HCafe has two different styles of mochi on offer: traditional recipes, which will be familiar to anyone Japanese, and an updated take with chunks of real fruit in the centre. I decided to pit tradition against trend and try one of each. The new-style treats have an outer wrapping of mochi with a light and soft texture. I tried the Mango Mochi, which had big, juicy pieces of fresh mango inside. The silky, chewy mochi and fresh fruit combine deliciously. Anyone who likes to eat cookie dough before the cookies are baked will love this treat. What’s more, with no butter or wheat flour, you don’t even have to feel guilty about it! I also tried the Sakura Mochi—a traditionalstyle mochi with more of a rice texture and
combination of sweet and aromatic flavours. The mochi reminded me of a rice pudding and was very satisfying combined with savoury red bean and woody sakura leaf. But it’s the Mochi Cake that really takes the, well, cake. Multi-layered with a mochi coating, H Å\ќ` ÄSSPUN ^P[O IPN JO\URZ VM YLHS MY\P[ HUK H crumbly graham cracker crust, the cake has a pleasing, well-balanced combination of textures HUK ÅH]V\YZ 0[»Z MY\P[` JYLHT` IPZJ\P[ ` HUK UV[ [VV Z^LL[ 0[ ^V\SK THRL H NYLH[ VќLYPUN H[ H party, assuming you are willing to share!
HCafe 4750 Yonge St., Unit 119, Toronto 647-350-8868 | www.hcafecanada.com OPEN: Mon–Sat 11:30 am–8 pm Sun 12 pm–8 pm