Bentobox Magazine 44

Japanese Culture | Hot Spots | Products

| Food

Oct. 2018

TM

No. 44 FREE www.bentoboxmag.ca

e h T Dishes that use delicious miso Hatcho miso and d more

o s i M

o f c i g a m

A stap l i e n e v Japan ery e s e c oo k pantr ’s y

Contents October O b 20 2018 018 N No. 44 4

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Enjoy a night out at this new sushi spott

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Feature: The magic of miso

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Restaurant: Jugemu

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Ingredient: Kabocha’s H\[\TU ÅH]V\Y

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Sake: `LHYZ VM ZHRL [YHKP[PVU

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Travel: /PKH ;HRH`HTH»Z HSWPUL H[[YHJ[PVUZ

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Tech spotlight: 7HUHZVUPJ OV[ ^H[LY KPZWLUZLY

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Movie: Mary and the Witch’s Flower

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EDITOR’S NOTE Behind a Japanese staple @V\ KVU»[ ULLK [V IL HU L_WLY[ PU 1HWHULZL J\PZPUL [V IL MHTPSPHY ^P[O TPZV· [OPZ PUNYLKPLU[ PZ H Z[HWSL HUK MHTPSPHYS` ZLY]LK PU [OL ^HYT IV^S VM ZV\W [OH[ JVTLZ HSVUN ^P[O THU` H ILU[V IV_ VY Z\ZOP JVTIV )\[ OV^ T\JO KV `V\ RUV^ HIV\[ ^OLYL TPZV JVTLZ MYVT& 9LHK VU [V MPUK V\[ HIV\[ TPZV»Z HUJPLU[ OPZ[VY`·[OLU NYHI ZVTL TPZV ZV\W H kabocha ZWPJL SH[[L ^OV ULLKZ W\TWRPU HU`TVYL& HUK QVPU \Z HZ ^L ZL[[SL PU MVY H JVZ` MHSS

Join the conversation on Facebook and Twitter MHJLIVVR JVT ILU[VIV_THN

[^P[[LY JVT ILU[VIV_THN

Editors 5PUH /VLZJOLSL (THUKH 7S`SL` @\TP 5PZOPV Editorial coordinators 5PUH /VLZJOLSL @\TP 5PZOPV Writers (THUKH ;H`SVY (THUKH 7S`SL` (YPLS 3P[[LSQVOU 1HTLZ /LYVU 4 *YV^ZVU 5PUH 3LL :HYHO +PJRZVU >HS[LY 4\ZJOLUOLPT Designers *OPLRV >H[HUHIL 4PKVYP @HTHTV[V Advertisement & marketing 2Ha\ 4HY\`HTH 7\ISPZOLY 2Ha\ 4HY\`HTH

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Miso katsu Deep-fried, panko-crusted pork cutlet served atop white rice and covered in a thick HUK Ã…H]V\YM\S TPZV ZH\JL& Yes, please! Miso katsu is a ZWLJPHS[` MYVT 5HNV`H HUK \ZLZ a dark-coloured (often hatcho) TPZV [V KLSP]LY P[Z \THTP [HZ[L 6[OLY TLH[Z JHU IL Z\IZ[P[\[LK PU MVY [OL WVYR PM `V\ ^PZO

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Hot Spot | Jugemu

DISCOVER A HIDDEN GEM

Behind Jugemu’s unassuming facade KLGHV D ðUVW FODVV VXVKL H[SHULHQFH

By Walter Muschenheim

Cyonburi Sushi lovers should try the 12-piece chef’s selection for $70. See if you can grab a seat at the counter where the chef will serve you personally and answer your questions.

Hungry for more? Let’s dig in!

ugemu is the new sushi restaurant tucked under Zakkushi Izakaya at the corner of Carlton and Ontario.

After Zakkushi’s previous venture in the space, also a sushi restaurant, closed several years ago, the lower level lay vacant. However, the dream of opening a serious, chef-centric sushi restaurant clearly never died, because the next move was to contact chef Koji Tashiro, formerly of Ja Bistro HUK :\ZOP @H HUK VќLY OPT [OL YVSL VM OLHK chef, giving him free rein to choose the identity and menu of the new restaurant.

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Chef Tashiro decided he wanted to make a sushi restaurant that was authentically Japanese yet still accessible for people in the neighbourhood.

Jugemu gets its name from an old story, one of the classics of a style of traditional Japanese storytelling called rakugo. It is a funny story about a child with a ridiculously long but very auspicious name. Chef Tashiro, who is a fan of rakugo, explains that the YPKPJ\SV\Z UHTL HJ[\HSS` ZPNUPÄLZ SVUN SPML HUK eternal happiness. The silly origin of Jugemu’s name seems like a bit of an enigma when you ÄYZ[ KLZJLUK [OL Z[HPYZ HUK LU[LY [OL TPUPTHS space. Beyond the simple white curtain that marks the entrance, a sense of seriousness and calm pervades. The clean lines, soft lighting and natural wood of the dining room signal that the food is the focus here above all else.

Alone behind the counter, Chef Tashiro may feel ZVTL HѝUP[` ^P[O YHR\NV WLYMVYTLYZ ^OV ZP[ alone on a sparsely decorated stage and work to hold the rapt attention of an entire audience.

However, the chef most closely resembles a technician as he executes quick, precise movements, his black-rimmed glasses pushed up high on his head and a look of stern focus on his face. Once he is ready to serve you, his look softens as he presents you with a fresh piece of nigiri @V\ [HRL H IP[L HUK [OL HTHaPUN ÅH]V\Y and texture of the sushi at Jugemu unfolds.

Then, before you have a chance to thank him, he is back to intently preparing the next piece: tuna from Japan or Mexico depending on the season, white shrimp from Japan whose sweetULZZ ISLUKZ ILH\[PM\SS` ^P[O ÅVYHS `\a\ YPUK marinated grouper (also from Japan), sea bass served with only salt and lemon. The seasonal Z[YPWLK QHJR PZ H ]PIYHU[ Z\TTLY` [YLH[ 0[Z ÄYT ÅLZO OHZ H MYLZO HSTVZ[ NYHZZ` ÅH]V\Y ;OL ÄZO PZ ZLY]LK VU H ZWHYPUN HTV\U[ VM KLSPJH[LS` seasoned rice that elevates the meat without JV]LYPUN \W P[Z ÅH]V\Y VY [L_[\YL That’s when the connection between the restaurant and its name becomes apparent: while one is silly and the other serious, both conceal a promise of eternal happiness.

The goal of Jugemu was to create a restaurant that welcomed the local community, but its L_JLSSLU[ Z\ZOP PZ KLÄUP[LS` ^VY[O H [YPW

Arajiru

Tsukemono

Jugemu has a great selection of small tasting plates.

They’re all packed with flavour, but for something extra satisfying, top off your meal with this signature super-savoury fish broth and red miso soup.

These beautiful, house-made pickles are bright and crunchy—seasoned with a house blend of vinegar.

They’re a light snack that’s a great way to wake up your tummy before eating lots of sushi!

Jugemu 193 Carlton St., Toronto 647-352-9456 www.zakkushi.com/jugemu OPEN: Wed–Fri 6 pm–12 am (Last call 11:30 pm) Sat–Sun 5 pm–11 pm (Last call 10:30 pm) Mon–Tues closed

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By Sarah Dickson

Ingredient | Kabocha

KABOCHA

か ぼちゃ

独特のねっとり感が魅力。 日本のカボチャで秋を感じる。

Because of the nutritional benefits of kabocha, it was traditionally eaten around the winter solstice with adzuki beans to boost the immune system and ward off illness during the colder months. Kabocha is also believed to assist with weight loss and is popular among women who want to lose weight after giving birth. Japanese food makers have even dabbled in kabochaflavoured snacks and sweets, creating their own version of the ubiquitous North American pumpkin spice flavour that appears i n e v e r y t h i n g f ro m c o o k i e s t o c o ff e e each year.

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Add this healthy gourd to your fall recipes.

As summer gives way to fall and colours begin to appear on the trees, it’s time to start thinking about all of the seasonal colours we can add to our plates. And just as we start anticipating the delicious squashes that are in season this time of year, people in Japan also start thinking about their most notable gourd: kabocha.

Despite how common kabocha is in Japanese cuisine, the gourd is not native to Japan. Like other squashes, kabocha was domesticated in central America as many as 10,000 years ago. It didn’t make its way to Japan until around 1541 when

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The modern kabocha features a bumpy green outer skin that gives way to a vibrant yellow-orange flesh with a subtly sweet flavour akin to a sweet potato. This gourd also packs a nutritional punch. The green skin of the kabocha is edible when cooked and is full of fibre, while the flesh is rich with beta-carotene. It is also rich in vitamin C, some B vitamins, calcium and iron.

Roast the seeds the same way you would roast regular pumpkin seeds for a hit of zinc.

the Portuguese brought it with them from Cambodia. This gourd was then known to the Japanese as Cambodia abobora, which was later shortened to the name kabocha.

Though the current name for this popular pumpkin originated with the 16th-century versions brought in by the Portuguese, the current variety most likely descends from the ones brought to Japan in the Meiji era, more than 300 years later. While generally referred to simply as kabocha, this most common variety is specifically known as kuri kabocha, as some people use the general term “kabocha” to refer to other kinds of squash.

At the grocery store, make sure you look for a kabocha with rich, deep green skin that feels heavier than you might expect.

Most grocery stores sell it whole, but some Asian grocery stores sell smaller portions of pre-cut halves or quarters. Try tossing it with olive oil, salt and pepper and roasting it, or cook it with some dashi (broth), soy, sugar and a bit of salt. You can even swap out sweet potato or other squashes from your favourite recipes and add in kabocha for something different. Even though kabocha is available year-round, its peak season is during the fall and winter months, making it perfect for blended soups, or simmered in dashi for an authentic Japanese flavour.

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OCTOBER 2018

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Drink up! | Sho Chiku Bai SHO

By Amanda Taylor

米日本酒の新 定 番誕生。 松 竹 梅の味わいはそのままに、 飲みやすさを追 求した新しい酒。

150 YEARS OF SAKE TRADITION 松竹梅ＳＨＯ 【しょうちくばい しょう】

Traditional crafting and modern technology have led to “America’s favourite sake.”

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akara USA, the American branding for leading Japanese sake brewery Takara Sake, is touted as having the bestselling sake across the border. Based in Berkeley, CA, Takara USA takes advantage of the crisp, pure snow melt of the Sierra Nevada Mountains and rice from the Sacramento Valley. The result is an easy-drinking sake that has people talking.

Takara USA draws on Takara Japan’s 150 years of brewing tradition to offer a range of high-quality sake, from dry to sweet, inexpensive to premium. With such a rich history of sake-brewing tradition behind the brand, it’s no wonder the company’s flagship brand, Sho Chiku Bai, is known as America’s favourite sake.

To get a sense of the fine quality of Sho Chiku Bai sake, it’s necessary to know a little about how the quality of sake is determined. The seimaibuai, or grade of sake, is based on how

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h the rice is polished. Polishing the rice much removes ves the outer layer to reveal the starch underneath, with more polished rice generally making more refined sake.

Table sake will typically use rice that is polished very lightly or not at all. Honjozo sake falls in the middle; rice for honjozo is polished down by at least 30%. Ginjo sake, the most refined, is made from rice that has been polished down by at least 40%.

Ginjo a fruity and floral flavour with notes of plum. It has a clear colour and a light, refreshing profile that is great on its own, though it also goes well with mildly flavoured dishes.

Try it with sushi or salad.

Sho Junmai Ginjo sake and Sho Ginjo Nigori sake are two of Takara’s most popular brews.

Described as a “connoisseur class” sake, the rice for these beverages is polished down all the way to 50%.

The Sho Ginjo Nigori features the same silky texture but has a milky colour and a sweeter flavour profile. This sweet Nigori sake is brewed the same way it was 2,000 years ago when sake first appeared in Kyoto, and the traditional brewing process results in some rice settling at the bottom of the bottle, so it’s recommended to give Sho Ginjo Nigori a shake before serving. And both Sho Junmai Ginjo and Sho Ginjo Nigori are best enjoyed chilled.

The Sho Junmai Ginjo is made from California rice and ginjo yeast. The yeast allows for a longer fermentation process than usual, which results in sake that goes down ultra-smooth.

As well, the ginjo yeast gives Sho Junmai

Ready to get a taste of America’s favourite sake brand? Takara’s Sho Junmai Ginjo and Sho Ginjo Nigori are a great place to start. Both can be found at select LCBO stores in Ontario.

Exclusive Agent:

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Travel | Hida Takayama

HIDA TAKAYAMA 町家風情が楽しめる飛騨の小京都。 一年を通して美しい自然のあふれる街。 Rich with culture, history and fresh mountain air, this popular getaway spot is the gem of the Japanese Alps.

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By Amanda Plyley

Stunning attractions in every season

ucked away in the northern alpine region of Gifu Prefecture lies one of the country’s oldest and most wellpreserved cities: Hida Takayama.

Literally translating to “tall mountain,” Takayama (“Hida”—a reference to the area’s traditional province—was informally added to help differentiate the city from other places in Japan) lives up to its name with its high-altitude position and generous surface area. Historically largely isolated due to its mountainous location, the area has retained a distinctly traditional feel—lending its visitors the perfect chance to step back in time.

T

Get traditional There are seemingly endless opportunities to immerse yourself in traditional Japanese culture and history in Takayama. A short walk from the central train station, JR Takayama, the city’s beautifully preserved old town waits to welcome you, showcasing buildings and houses that date all the way back to the Edo

period (1603–1868). Explore the handful of quaint streets by foot or rickshaw and you’ll find shops, cafés and sake breweries that have been operating for centuries. For the full experience, rent a kimono—or a kamishimo (a formal clothing set worn by Edo-period samurai) for men—and browse the streets in style.

In the mood for entertainment? There’s no shortage of it among the venues offering insight into traditional music, dance, arts and crafts, and ceremony etiquette. Watch a drum performance or try your hand at playing the shakuhachi, a traditional bamboo flute. Enjoy a tea ceremony or learn about shakyo, the art of copying Buddhist scripture with the intention of clearing the mind. Find yourself transfixed by a kabuki performance or take a lesson in traditional Japanese dance. Ryokan Kaminaka, the central hub of Japanese performing arts in Takayama, is so popular that visitors must book weeks in advance.

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HIDA TAKAYAMA 【飛騨高山】 Hida Takayama is located in the mountains of Gifu Prefecture, about 300 kilometres west of Tokyo. It is easily reached by limited express train from Nagoya or Toyama.

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By Nina Lee

Travel | Hida Takayama

Breathe it in But nothing combines the rich cultural context of Takayama with its stunning mountainous backdrop quite like Hida no Sato, or the Hida Folk Village. An open-air museum established in 1971, the village features more than 30 traditional buildings, preserved and relocated from various parts of the former Hida province. Framed by lush greenery or snowy peaks depending on the time of year, structures like past villagers’ homes, logging huts and thatched-roof farmhouses feature centuries-old architecture, tools and utensils and can be explored inside and out. In cooler months, the buildings’ wood-burning fireplaces are lit each morning, making the experience that much more authentic and memorable.

And if all of the previously mentioned walking and wandering just isn’t enough, there are plenty more ways to get your steps in. Visitors to Takayama aren’t typically coming in search of a big-city vibe—rather, the beautiful mountains, hills and trails surrounding the city are one of its main draws. Hike or ski to your heart’s content depending on the season, or enjoy a peaceful stroll along Higashiyama Yuhodo, a pleasant 3.5-km walking course that passes more than a dozen temples and shrines plus wooded hills, parks and the ruins of Takayama Castle. The course is the perfect way to get a healthy dose of fresh air and indulge in the gentle sounds of nature before returning to the lively city centre for dinner and sake.

Plan your visit With four distinct seasons, the allure of the great outdoors and all of its traditional charms, Takayama is unsurprisingly popular with tourists—both Japanese and international. But with so much to offer, the city isn’t limited to any one season when it comes to visitors.

Mild spring weather, cherry blossoms in bloom and the popular Sanno Matsuri (spring festival) make April a great time to experience the region. But October is equally enticing with its vibrant foliage and Hachiman Matsuri (fall festival). Visit in winter and make sure Okuhida Hot Spring Village—the largest collection of open-air onsen in Japan, with some of the country’s most majestic mountain scenery—is high on your list!

And, of course, you can bask in the festive spirit of Takayama in any season with a captivating performance by the city’s legendary karakuri ningyo (mechanical puppet dolls) at the Karakuri Museum.

Year-round—with its historic architecture and natural wonders, its outdoor markets and traditional breweries, its friendly locals and soothing break from Japan’s megacities— Takayama stands ready to delight the senses.

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By Nina Hoeschele

Event | Food and art in Tokyo

TOKYO EVENT HIGHLIGHTS Food and art

Bring in the fall with these two exceptional events that will show you a different side of Japan.

Planning a visit to Tokyo anytime soon? This fall, two exciting events are being held in Japan’s capital that encapsulate the phrase Shokuyoku-no-aki, geijyutu-no-aki: “Fall is for food, fall is for art.” This season of cooler temperatures, bountiful harvests and heading back to school is a great time to dig into some hearty comfort food and some fascinating brain food.

Tokyo is renowned for its temples and technology, but there’s more to the city than meets the eye. Add something unexpected to your Tokyo visit by dropping by one of these events.

Design Ah! Exhibition Developed from a TV program of the same name, the Design Ah! Exhibition is an interactive experience that helps visitors think differently about everyday problems

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fastly traditional and unexpectedly revamped—to Tokyo for the event, the Tokyo Ramen Show is your best chance to take a whirlwind ramen tour of the country, all in one place.

and foster a “design mind.” With innovative installations featuring video clips, music and other interactive media, this exhibition invites you to delve deeply into the objects that surround us. How were they built, and what problems do they solve?

This year, the Tokyo Ramen Show is celebrating its 10th anniversary. With a decade of ramen experimentation on record, this year’s show is sure to be more delicious than ever.

At the Design Ah! Exhibition, you’ll learn how to “look, think and create” with a design mind—and get into the creative mindset needed to build the solutions of the future.

Tokyo Ramen Show Grab a bowl at the largest outdoor ramen event in Japan! Ramen is a staple Japanese dish, but it’s by no means predictable: all across the country you can find endless regional variations using each area’s local ingredients. With chefs from near and far bringing their ramen recipes—both stead-

Find out more: Design Ah! Exhibition: Until Oct. 18 www.design-ah-exhibition.jp/en or www. gotokyo.org/en/spot/EX059/ Tokyo Ramen Show: Oct. 25–Nov. 4 www.gotokyo.org/en/spot/EV115/

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1-Day Snow Monkey Tour With National Government Licensed English Guide Interpreter

Round-trip from Tokyo via Hokuriku Shinkansen

1 From Tokyo, a one-way trip to Nagano takes about 100-105 minutes aboard the Hokuriku Shinkansen (Asama or Hakutaka train). Transportation is convenient with a reserved seat on the shinkansen. Enjoy the beautiful views seen from the shinkansen windows.

2 After arriving at Nagano Station, customers will be accompanied by a National Government Licensed English Guide Interpreter from the station platform. On this 1-day tour, visit the National Treasure Zenko-ji Temple as well as Jigokudani Monkey Park, which is a famous place where Japanese macaques soak in hot springs during the cold season.

3 Sought after by many visitors from all over the world, the Jigokudani Monkey Park is where the behaviour of Japanese macaques can be seen up close. Enjoy seeing the monkeys’ charming expressions while they spend time relaxing in hot springs, the only hot springs in the world exclusively used by wild monkeys.

4 Visit the Zenko-ji Temple, a designated National Treasure built roughly 1,400 years ago. Along with the Todai-ji Temple’s Great Buddha Hall, it is one of Japan’s most remarkable wooden structures.

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For lunch, slurp some warm soba noodles, a Nagano specialty.

TOUR BASIC INFORMATION Departure city: Tokyo ¦ Visits: Nagano Tour: November 26, 2018 – March 29, 2019 (Monday, Wednesday and Friday ) Duration: Approx. 13 hours Includes: Round-trip shinkansen fare between Tokyo and Nagano, lunch, other admission fees included in the itinerary

PRICE

CAD $

375

All photos ©JNTO

HOW TO PURCHASE

Reservations can be made by either telephone or email. Please contact JTB International (Canada) Ltd. at Phone: 416-367-5824 | Toll-free:1-800-268-5942 | Email: jtbtoronto@jtbi.com | Website: www.jtb.ca

*Price is valid for month of October 2018. *Price may fluctuate monthly due to change in exchange rate.

ITINERARY Travel from Tokyo Station (or Ueno Station) to Zenko-ji Daimon 06:50- Travel from Tokyo Station (or Ueno Station) 07:40 to Nagano Station (120 min) Board a shinkansen on your own from Tokyo Station.

08:30- Arrive at Nagano Station 09:20 Meet with the National Government Licensed Guide Interpreter on the platform after arriving at Nagano Station.

09:40

11:00

The lunch includes soba (buckwheat) noodles, a Nagano specialty.

As traces of buckwheat flour may be present in the entire shop, those with buckwheat allergies should not enter.

11:40

40

min

Depart from Zenkoji Station

40

min

Depart from Nagano Station to Zenko-ji Daimon

14:10 12:30

10:10

Japanese-style Lunch

Visit Zenko-ji Temple

40

min

Visit Zenko-ji Temple, which boasts 1,400 years of rich history. Its main hall is a designated national treasure.

Walk to Jigokudani Monkey Park

This is a hard walking tour covering about 40 minutes of walking each way between the Roman Museum parking lot and Jigokudani Monkey Park.

13:20

Jigokudani Monkey Park

Depart from 50 Jigokudani Monkey Park min

Travel from Roman Museum Parking Lot to Tokyo Station 50

15:00

Leave for Nagano Station

min

Visit the Jigokudani Monkey Park, a world-famous park where Japanese macaques can be seen up close as they freely soak in hot springs.

This is the only place in the world where wild Japanese macaques can be seen bathing in their own designated hot spring. Enjoy seeing the amusing expressions of the monkeys up close as they warm themselves in a relaxing hot spring bath.

16:20- Depart from Nagano Station 17:15 Head to Tokyo Station via shinkansen.

18:00- Arrive at Tokyo Station 19:00 Tour ends at Tokyo Station.

*Please note that special accommodations for those with trouble walking cannot be provided. Small children will not be allowed to participate in the tour. The walking path may be frozen and slippery if there is snow. Please wear winter boots or other non-slip footwear. The temperature in the area in winter averages about -1°C. Please dress accordingly. **The behaviour of wild monkeys is unpredictable. The park might be closed to visitors in case the monkeys do not come down to the park from the mountains. The tour may be cancelled on the day before tour departure in such cases. A full refund will be issued if the tour is cancelled.

For more information, please contact JTB International at 1-800-268-5942 (toll-free) or email at jtbtoronto@jtbi.com www.bentoboxmag.ca

OCTOBER 2018

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Tech spotlight

By Sarah Dickson

GET HEALTHY AND WARM WITH A HOT WATER DISPENSER

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ith cooler weather on the horizon, it won’t be long before we’re all craving our favourite hot teas and instant noodle flavours. But sometimes it can seem like it takes forever to get hot water from a kettle, or worse, a pot on the stove. Yet while a watched pot never boils, you can get hot water conveniently and quickly with the addition of a hot water dispenser to your kitchen. And a hot water dispenser that makes your favourite tea healthier? Even better!

The Panasonic 4.0-Litre electric thermo pot features an inner pot that is coated with Binchotan carbon, a type of charcoal used in traditional Japanese cooking dating back to the Edo period. The superior

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cooking quality of binchotan comes from its ability to sustain heat, burning at a lower temperature for an extended period of time—longer than traditional charcoal.

Binchotan itself is known to have purifying properties, such as the ability to remove chlorine and heavy minerals from water.

Like traditional Binchotan charcoal, the coated inner pot in the hot water dispenser does not release odours into the water, ensuring fresher and cleaner-tasting water as it purifies while it heats. What’s more, this specially designed inner pot heats the water in a way that brings out the natural flavours and health benefits of tea, ensuring a tastier, healthier cup.

Panasonic also added its proprietary U-VIP insulation panel to the inner pot,

ensuring the water inside is kept warmer for longer. Because of this feature, this hot water dispenser uses up to 40% less energy than other dispensers by needing to do less of the work of reheating the water each time. This ensures quick and easy access to hot water when you finally coax yourself up out of your cosy seat on the couch for a refill. This dispenser even features a timer, so you can set it to be ready just as you emerge out from under the warm covers in the morning, or better yet, as soon as you come in from the cold.

4.0 Litre electric thermo pot | $259.99 To order, search “NC-HU401K” at shopping.panasonic.ca

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Film focus | Mary and the Witch’s Flower

By James Heron

Studio Ponoc carries on the Ghibli tradition Yonebayashi manages a seamless transition from Studio Ghibli in terms of quality, visual style and storytelling sensibility.

MOVIE INFO Mary and the Witch’s Flower (2017) Director: /PYVTHZH @VULIH`HZOP Voices: /HUH :\NPZHRP @\RP (THTP -\TP`V Kohinata, Hikari Mitsushima, Ryunosuke Kamiki Running time: 103 minutes

©GKIDS

A young girl finds fantastical adventures above the clouds after a mysterious black cat leads her into the forest, where she happens upon a flying broomstick and a flower that bestows a witch’s magical powers.

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ew films from Academy Award-nominated director /PYVTHZH @VULIH`HZOP HS^H`Z bring with them a lengthy tracery of connections running deep into the house of modern Japanese an i mation, St udio Ghib l i . He w a s t h e animator for such Miyazaki-directed classics as Spirited Away, Howl’s Moving Castle and Ponyo. He also directed The Secret World of Arrietty and one of Ghibli’s final films, When Marnie Was There.

When, in 2014, Studio Ghibli decided to stop production and reevaluate its future in the world of animation, talented alumni such as @VULIH`HZOP HUK @VZOPHRP 5PZOPT\YH Z[Y\JR out on their own and founded Studio Ponoc.

We are relieved and happy to report that @VULIH`HZOP HUK 5PZOPT\YH OH]L THUHNLK H seamless transition from the Ghibli house in terms of quality, visual style and storytelling ZLUZPIPSP[` ^P[O [OLPY ÄYZ[ WYVK\J[PVU »Z Mary and the Witch’s Flower. ;OL ÄST PZ IHZLK VU 4HY` :[L^HY[»Z classic children’s book The Little Broomstick, and it is interesting to note that both of @VULIH`HZOP»Z V[OLY ÄSTZ [VVR )YP[PZO `V\UN

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A gorgeously hand-drawn, high-energy adventure

adult literature as their sources: Arrietty is based on Mary Norton’s 1952 novel The Borrowers and Marnie on Joan G. Robinson’s 1967 book of the same name. With Mary, @VULIH`HZOP HNHPU ]PZP[Z [OL HSPLU HUK L_V[PJ world of pastoral England in the middle of the last century where we meet a determined young ginger girl living an isolated life in the countryside, watched over by her kindly greataunt Charlotte. One day, sick with boredom, Mary follows a mysterious cat into the nearby forest, where she discovers an old broomstick HUK [OL Z[YHUNL -S` I` 5PNO[ ÅV^LY H YHYL plant that blossoms only once every seven years and can grant magical powers. Together [OL ÅV^LY HUK [OL IYVVTZ[PJR ^OPZR 4HY` above the clouds, and far away to the Hogwartian Endor College—a school of magic run by headmistress Madam Mumblechook. Mary is fascinated and presents herself as a new student. A quick study, and possessing the flaming red hair of the most talented witches, Mary is seen as a gifted prodigy until she is exposed as a pretender and a trespasser. She PZ [OLU SVJRLK \W HUK T\Z[ ÄUK OLY ^H` OVTL before her magic runs out.

With Mary, one could argue that Ponoc, perhaps suffering from opening-night jitters, sticks a little too closely to the Ghibli model. Mary is a vintage Miyazaki heroine: spunky, high-spirited and desperately bored.

Her flying broom is a direct lift from Kiki’s Delivery Service and the film’s meticulously rendered animation delivers the sumptuous JVSV\Y HUK [OL RPUL[PJ Å\PKP[` VM @VULIH`HZOP»Z Ghibli work. But why quibble? These are exactly the qualities that audiences feared might be lost with the closing of Ghibli. So Mary is something to celebrate: a gorgeously hand-drawn, high-energy adventure that will entertain both children and their parents. >L SVVR MVY^HYK [V @VULIH`HZOP»Z UL_[ visit to the English countryside. It would be lovely to see Brambly Hedge, Toad Hall or Burnett’s Secret Garden through his lovingly polished Japanese lens.

Mary and the Witch’s Flower can be seen at a special Family Anime Screening at the JCCC on Sunday, Oct. 14, at 2 pm. jccc.on.ca

www.bentoboxmag.ca

OCTOBER 2018

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Staff Pick | Koi-Koi Sake Bar

Sublime sake meets comfort classics Koi-Koi Sake Bar brings homestyle e cuisine and choice drinks to Kensington Ma arket.

ff a t S

Nina Lee Nina is a writer and fundraiser working with artists, sts, arts organizations and publications across Canada. da.

In her free time, she enjoys travel, food, supporting ing local artists, and running with her dog, Dash.

Hokkaido Ikura Don Ikura, torched hokkaido scallop, butterfish on rice. â–ś 28

OCTOBER 2018

www.bentoboxmag.ca

By Nina Lee

Raise a toast and get comfy

ve been spending more time around Toronto’s Kensington Market recently, and I’ve noticed a change in the composition of the area of late. Still popular among students and musicians, Kensington Market has started to become a sort of Little Tokyo West, with about a half dozen or so Japanese-inspired shops, restaurants and cafés opening over the past year. On a hot September afternoon I happened upon Koi-Koi Sake Bar in the heart of the market, and enjoyed spending a couple of hours tasting a variety of sake while savouring some comforting homestyle Japanese dishes.

I’

Sake bars are synonymous with Japanese nightlife, but they aren’t so widespread in

1

North America. New York has a few, and there are some on the west coast, but Toronto isn’t exactly known as a sake hot spot. Enter Koi-Koi Sake Bar—the destination for sake virtuosos, neophytes and everyone in between. Its extensive sake menu features bottles at a variety of quality and price points, from $6.50 for a glass, up to $300 for a 1.8-L bottle of Yamaguchi’s finest spirit, which can also be saved for future visits. Co-owner Linda Dang has a soft spot for whisky, and has created a number of cocktails that showcase Japan’s fiery Scottish-style brew paired with complexitybuilding additions like chrysanthemum and lavender syrups, matcha and lychee liquor.

But Koi-Koi brought me back home with its delicious accompaniments. Co-owner and chef Nancy Young has created a seasonal menu that reminds me of dishes that my 1HWHULZL OVTLZ[H` TV[OLY \ZLK [V THRL! salmon ochazuke, a rice bowl served with a sour plum green tea broth and grilled salmon; platefuls of yakisoba stir-fried noodles topped with pork, carrots, cabbage, aonori and mayo; and stacks of crunchy, sweet soy chicken wings. These hearty comfort foods are perfect to consume before, during and after a serious drinking session, and they’re all delicious.

Not content to simply import sake for its g u e s t s t o s a m p le , ju s t t wo m o nths after P[ Z (\ N \ Z [ N Y H U K V WLUPUN 2 V P 2 V P introduced its first collaboration with the Distillery District’s Izumi Sake Distillery.

The lively bar hosts jazz bands on Tuesday UPNO[Z HUK H +1 VU -YPKH`Z HUK ^P[O HU atmosphere that is equal parts jovial and polished, Koi-Koi is a place you can bring a date or a business client.

Yak kisobA▶

Koi-Koi Sake Bar 170 Baldwin St., Toronto | 647-343-4618 www.koikoibar.com OPEN: :\U¶;O\YZ WT¶ HT -YP WT¶ HT :H[ ! WT¶ HT

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1. CRUNCHY SOY WINGS -YPLK JOPJRLU ^PUNZ HYL H X\PU[LZZLU[PHS WHY[ VM [OL 1HWHULZL IHY experience.

2. Salmon ochazuke A traditional hangover cure, this warm and comforting dish is served with an ume green tea broth. www.bentoboxmag.ca

OCTOBER 2018

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