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Japanese Culture | Hot Spots | Products

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Feb. 2017

No. 24 FREE www.bentoboxmag.ca

FRESH SEAFOOD IN THE CITY

JaBistro serves up sophisticated sushi Page 08 FROM FAMOUS EATS TO DIVERSE EVENTS

Kobe is a cosmopolitan city that has it all Page 18

Japanese DIG INTO SOME SERIOUS COMFORT FOOD

WARM, HEARTY— and EASY to MAKE PAGE 04

curry

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Contents

February 2017 No.24 4

Food

Featured

04 Japanese curry

10 Japanese products

This is the stick-to-your-ribs Japanese comfort food you’ve been looking for—a dish that’s been a staple of Japanese kitchens for half a century.

08 Sushi meets sophistication Head to JaBistro to enjoy a refined atmosphere and a carefully curated menu.

Cold weather can make the day seem dreary. Here are five products that will keep you toasty this winter.

04

28 Local events

We’ve gott three thre th hree e re recipes cipes i to bring curry to your dining table

Celebrate Japanese culture in your own backyard.

30 MUJI marshmallow tasting 12 Ready for this jelly?

Firm, chewy and undeniably healthy, this ingredient is an easy addition to your diet—and your body will thank you.

14 Raise your glass Forget champagne—try sparkling sake for your next celebration.

10

Fluffy and chewy with a decadent filling, these new marshmallows are creating a sensation.

Some warm cheer to brighten up the season

Travel

Culture C l

16 Sakura &TOKYO 38 Hospitality at its best One local restaurateur is determined to keep the bellies of Torontonians warm and full this winter.

For a brief two weeks Tokyo becomes an ethereal wonderland as gorgeous pink blossoms bloom around the city.

22 Only in Japan Leave aside the minivan and take a spin on the mamachari, Japan’s most useful and ubiquitous suburban ride.

18 Featured destination: Kobe 1 With a long history of foreign trade, Kobe is a cosmopolitan city that is filled with international influences.

32 Film focus One of the year’s best Japanese films, Koji Fukada’s inquiry into the nature of sin, guilt, isolation and family can be hard to watch but is impossible to ignore.

24 A new old theatre 2 Travel back in time to the pleasure districts of the Edo era—with a modern twist.

08

36 Memoir

Artful sushi made with some of the freshest seafood in town

The spiciest curry this writer ever tried wasn’t Thai or Indian—nope, it was Japanese.

Join the conversation on Facebook and Twitter

EDITOR’S NOTE

Nina Hoeschele

facebook.com/bentoboxmag

Seeing Japan a little differently This is our 24th issue of Bento Box, meaning it’s been two years of celebrating what Japan has to offer.

So this month, we’re looking at some of the country’s less conventional offerings.

twitter.com/bentoboxmag Editors Nina Hoeschele, Amanda Plyley, Yumi Nishio Editorial coordinators Nina Hoeschele, Yumi Nishio

When you hear the word “curry,” the first place your mind goes probably isn’t to Japan. But since being originally introduced from India, Japanese curry has actually become wildly popular (p. 36) as a dish all its own (p. 04). You can discover even more cross-cultural delicacies in Kobe (p. 18), a cosmopolitan city where Chinese and European influences are on display. And as much as it transforms other cultures, Japan has a tendency to reinvent its own past, too. Take Kaguwa (p. 24), for example—a restaurant that brings traditional kabuki theatre to life for contemporary audiences.

Writers Amanda Plyley, Amanda Taylor, James Heron, Junko Mita, Kathleen O’Hagan, M Crowson, Nicholas Jones, Nina Lee, Sarah Dickson, Walter Muschenheim,Yumi Nishio Designers Chiyako Mukai, Reiko Ema Photographer Kazu Maruyama Production assistants Karin Yoshida, Kota Kai, Lisa Tower, Natsumi Komatsu, Yoichiro Ishizuka

Here’s to even more interesting discoveries in our next year!

Advertisement & marketing Maiko Kurotaki Publisher Kazu Maruyama

Bento Box Communication Inc.

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Feature

By Nicholas Jones

ĺࠂȞ๷Ʌ‫ݗ‬ɘɥĂ൥ఱ࡜Ɉ໲ႨɈʃ˄ĜĻ

Japanese curry This is the stick-to-your-ribs Japanese comfort food you’ve been looking for— a dish that’s been a staple of Japanese kitchens for half a century.

Try making this delicious Japanese curry from scratch

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hen talking with Canadian friends about my experience with Japanese cuisine, I make it my mission to inform them that there is far more to Japanese cooking than just sushi. For this reason, I jumped at the opportunity to write about Japanese curry for Bento Box. Not only is it one of my favourite Japanese dishes, but it’s a simple, one-pot meal that more North Americans should take

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the chance to enjoy—particularly now, in the depths of a frigid Canadian winter!

Though curry may not be as commonly associated with Japan as culinary archetypes like sushi or ramen, it is as ubiquitous in Japan as both of those dishes. Curry was introduced to Japan from India by way of the British during the Meiji era. However, it was not truly embraced on a national scale until the 1960s.

Today the dish is so popular that it is commonly referred to as one of Japan’s national foods.

In fact, if we were to create a list of staple Japanese comfort foods, curry (or karȔ, as it is more commonly called) would be up there near the top, alongside karaage (Japanese fried chicken) and ramen. The thick, aromatic karȔ sauce is the perfect stick-to-your-ribs meal to curl up with on a cold night.

This warm and hearty dish is beloved across the country The first thing to know about karȔ is that it bears little resemblance to the South Asian staple that spawned it. Sure, some of the original spices have remained, but the Japanese have put their own spin on it. It’s generally milder than its counterparts, and the sauce (referred to as roux) is often much thicker.

A fast, convenient culinary staple A quick way of understanding karȔ’s broad appeal is to compare it to a Canadian culinary staple: Kraft Dinner. The simplest form of karȔ served on rice is known as karȔ raisu, and it is as popular with Japanese children as KD is with Canadian kids. KarȔ is also sold with the sauce or roux pre-mixed in powdered or cube form, alongside simple preparation instructions that have made it a fixture in the culinary repertoire of Japanese college students. However, whereas KD requires only the addition of milk, packaged karȔ mixes provide only the sauce for the curry, opening the dish up to culinary experimentation.

The widely accepted, standard recipe suggests adding onions, carrots, potatoes and meat, then serving the thick, stew-like curry on white rice. However, the true pleasure of karȔ comes in the variations different chefs introduce. Some include a sweet kick by adding puréed apple just before serving. A veggie-loving friend of mine swears by replacing the meat in the recipe with chickpeas.

When we made our own veggie curry recently, we added some ginger, swapped out the potatoes for sweet potatoes, included some mushrooms and finished it off with daikon (Japanese radish).

Endless variations on classic curry My all-time favourite variation is katsu karȔ.

It takes the standard recipe and vegetables, but tops it with a deep-fried pork cutlet that is pretty close to schnitzel in size and texture.

Garnish the dish with a generous helping of red fukujinzuke pickles and you’ve got the perfect Japanese comfort food.

Japanese curry Indulge yourself with this classic take on the popular dish

And the karȔ flavour has spread even further—to dishes like karȔ udon, wherein thick udon noodles are served in a thinner curry broth. In icy Hokkaido, sȻpu karȔ (soup curry), which also uses a thinner broth, introduces more vegetables and cranks up the spice to an eye-watering level. Finally, there’s karȔ pan (curry bun), where an almost donut-like pastry is filled with curry and deep-fried until crispy.

No matter how it’s prepared, one thing is certain about karȔ: it has taken Japan by storm. If you haven’t yet had the chance to try it, we’ve included a selection of recipes with this article.

Since karȔ is easily one of the simplest Japanese foods to cook at home, I hope you give them a try!

Makes 12 servings Ingredients: S&B Golden Curry Sauce Mix Meat (beef, chicken, lamb or pork) of your choice, 1” cubed Onions, chopped Carrots, medium size, chopped Potatoes, medium size, chopped Cooking oil Water Steamed rice

8.4-oz packet 2 1/4 lb 4 2 3 4 tbsp 6 cups 12 servings

Directions 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Heat oil in a large frying pan and stir-fry meat and onions until onions are lightly browned (approx. 3 minutes).

Add carrots, potatoes and/or other vegetables, if desired.

Put the cooked meat and vegetables into a large pot. Add water and bring to a boil.

Reduce heat, cover and simmer until meat is tender (approx. 10 minutes).

Break S&B Golden Curry Sauce Mix into pieces and add them to the pot.

Stir until Sauce Mix is completely melted. Simmer for 5 minutes, stirring constantly.

Serve hot over rice.

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05

Curry udon Curry sauce meets thick noodles in this hearty curry udon

Makes six servings Ingredients: S&B Golden Curry Sauce Mix Onion, large size, finely chopped Beef, thinly sliced Chestnut mushrooms, finely sliced Vegetable oil Soup stock Soy sauce Soft boiled udon noodles Spring onion stems, finely sliced Red chili pepper, sliced

120 g 1 250 g 8 tbsp 1 tbsp 1300 ml 2 tbsp 6 packs 2 1

Directions 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan, add the onion and fry gently on low heat until lightly browned.

Add thinly sliced beef and mushrooms and fry for 3 minutes until browned.

Add 1300 ml of soup stock and bring to a boil.

Reduce to medium heat and simmer for 15 minutes until the beef is tender. Skim away any surface scum.

Remove from the heat and cool for 3 minutes, then add the curry roux in pieces.

Bring back to a boil, add the soy sauce, reduce heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir constantly to avoid burning the sauce.

Serve the udon with the curry in a bowl, garnished with spring onions. Top with chili if you like it hot.

Curry-flavoured tuna and mayonnaise roll Mix curry and sushi in this fresh and tasty hand roll

Makes two medium-sized rolls Ingredients: S&B Curry Powder Steamed rice Rice vinegar Canned tuna, drained Finely chopped onion Mayonnaise Salt Roasted nori (seaweed) Lettuce

1/4 tsp 2 cups 3 tbsp 1/4 cup 2 tbsp 1 tbsp Pinch 2 sheets A few leaves

Directions 1.

2.

3.

4.

These recipes are reproduced from S&B Foods website with permission.

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Mix vinegar into steamed rice to make sushi rice.

Add the tuna, onion, mayo, curry powder and salt, then mix well.

Place lettuce, sushi rice and half of the tuna mixture on a sheet of nori and make a roll.

Repeat with more nori, lettuce, sushi rice and the rest of the mixture.

Best o Best off T Toronto oronto

By Amanda By Amanda P Plyley lyley Restaurant

Sushi meets sophistication For the freshest ďŹ ne dining, head downtown to this hot spot to enjoy a calm, reďŹ ned atmosphere and a carefully curated menu.

The ultimate tailgating party From ocean straight to table and sliced before your eyes, lobster tail is a standout on a massive plate of deliciousness.

Hungry for more? Let’s dig in!

Fresher than your wildest breams An impressive selection of seafood, this platter’s contents range from uni, amberjack and salmon belly to toro and sea bream.

Tucked away on Toronto’s Richmond Street West, amidst nightclubs and high-end restaurants, there is a long, narrow space featuring blonde wood, exposed brick and some of the finest fish the city has to offer. A self-described cosy hideaway, JaBistro prides itself on its elegant atmosphere and specially imported ocean wares—and Torontonians are positively eating it up.

From the Kinka Family—the same restaurant group behind the wildly successful Kinka Izakaya and Kinton Ramen restaurants—JaBistro offers sushi seekers an altogether different atmosphere than the one they’re apt to find in one of the group’s izakayas. Upon entering, customers will find their coats hung and napkins folded before having stylishly minimal menus placed before them. Consisting of sashimi, sushi (nama- and aburi-style) and bistro dishes, the restaurant’s offerings are all but guaranteed to appeal to even the poshest of palates.

Flown in fresh on a daily basis, JaBistro’s fish is far from average—and you’ll know it at first bite. Grab a seat at the sushi bar to watch as house chefs work their magic, and bask in the glory of the lobster platter, kyukyoku plate or lightly torched, Osaka-style salmon o s h i z u s h i (pressed salmon). Wash it all down with sake, beer, shochu or cocktails, and don’t forget to try a matcha cream puff pastry for dessert. You may be accustomed to the vibrant, boisterous atmosphere of an izakaya but JaBistro will appeal to your sophisticated senses while positively tickling your tastebuds.

Piecing it all together With a plateful of market-fresh pieces to choose from, kyukyoku is the best way to get a taste of what JaBistro is all about.

Uni-quely crafted

Handled with care Sushi lovers will agree that its creation is an art— which is why JaBistro offers front-row seats for patrons to catch all the action.

A skilled, steady hand is required to make uni, Chef Takeshi’s specialty: gold-hued, flavourful sea urchin that will leave you wanting more.

JaBistro www.jabistro.com TEL: 647-748-0222 222 Richmond St. W., Toronto OPEN: Lunch: Mon–Fri 11:30 am–2:30 pm

iÀ\Ê-Õ q/ ÕÀÃÊxÊ« q££Ê« ÊUÊ À q->ÌÊxÊ« q£ÓÊ>

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FEBRUARY 2017

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Hot

Featured

in

Japan

PRODUCTS Cold weather can make the day seem dreary. If you need a little support, here are five products that will keep you toasty this winter.

01

Snuggle with shrimp Do you want to add some tasty flair to your comfy night at home?

There’s nothing quite like shrimp tempura wrapped in crispy deep-fried batter—and not just because it’s delicious! Now you can tempura-batter yourself to beat the bitter cold. This product isn’t just for fun: the interior is lined with soft fabric and the shrimp tails are fleece socks to keep you warm from head to toe.

Separates into two parts, making it easy to wear.

02

Cosy soft slippers These are the perfect pair for lounging at home on a frosty winter night.

These slippers are filled with 1-mm micro-air beads, a material more commonly used for polystyrene insulation.

The beads contain air pockets that prevent heat from escaping. And the insoles are made of polyethylene, meaning your feet will be well-protected from any cold coming up from the floor.

Light with a FRPIRUWDEOH ҕW These one-size-fits-all slippers are made from a knitted material, lined with fleece and have a non-slip sole.

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he up t e! n r ur Tu ra-t u p tem

03

Relax your shoulders In cold weather, all that hunching up in your coat can make you feel stiff.

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S Sec. in microwave mi wave

Warm this pad up in the microwave and place it on your shoulders and neck. The steam and light pressure of the warmer help to relieve and relax your stiff muscles. It is made of silica gel inside and cotton fabric outside—so you can use it repeatedly! It’s also easily washed by hand.

04

Pour yourself a cup

05

Warm your stomach

This cute egg-shaped kettle makes a fine statement in your kitchen.

There’s nothing better than a hot meal on a cold day—and now it’s easier than ever.

When winter comes, we naturally gravitate toward hot drinks. Why not add some joy to your stove with Nambu ironware this winter? This kettle is not only beautiful but practical. Water boiled in this kettle comes out mild, tasty and rich in iron, making your steaming drinks even better.

Do you crave ramen, hot-pot or stew on cold and grey winter days, but you’d rather spend as little time outside your tempura blanket as possible? Try this stylish, heat-proof bowl. It can be used on both the stove and in the microwave, and it lets you cook and serve your meal in one dish.

More info about these products

01, 02, 03, 05: Felissimo, www.felissimo.co.jp/int | 04: Oh my kawaiiii!! www.kawaiiii.jp

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Flavour of the month

By Amanda Plyley Ingredient

ぷにぷにの感触が美味しいこんにゃくは 栄養いっぱい、ヘルシーな食材。

Konnyaku Ready for this jelly? 蒟蒻【こんにゃく】 Firm, chewy and undeniably healthy, this ingredient is an easy addition to your diet—and your body will thank you.

Devil’s tongue. Voodoo lily. Snake palm. Elephant yam. There’s a Japanese superfood that goes by many names. Have you tried it yet?

Konjac, or konnyaku as it is known in Japan, is a gelatin-like substance made from the ground flour of a perennial plant native to parts of Asia.

Mild in taste, grey in colour and gummy in texture, it is most commonly encountered as an ingredient in hot dishes like oden and sukiyaki—and its vast and varied health benefits do not go unnoticed.

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The earliest known use of konjac dates all the way back to the Han dynasty in China, nearly 2,000 years ago. Hailed for its medicinal properties, the plant was originally used to treat asthma, coughs and other breathing problems as well as skin disorders and infections. Fast forward several centuries and konjac became known for its healing properties in Japan, reaching prime popularity during the Edo period. By 1846 books such as Konnyaku Hyakusen (100 Recipes for Konnyaku) were being published due to high demand for the socalled superfood.

So just what types of nutritional powers are we talking about? Well, konjac’s claim to fame is glucomannan—a dietary fibre known to combat obesity, high cholesterol, constipation, diabetes and acne, among other conditions. At 70% to 80% glucomannan content, konjac is simply the richest source of soluble fibre available in nature.

And since most of us could stand to add more fibre to our diets, it goes without saying that this jiggly jelly does the trick.

Before it can be consumed and appreciated for its many healthy properties, konjac must undergo some labour-intensive processing between garden and kitchen table. Traditionally, after growing for two or three years to reach maximum glucomannan potential, the plant is dug up and its corm (the underground stem or base) is peeled, sliced and laid out to dry in the sun for several days before being ground into flour and subsequently added to water and boiled to form a paste. The paste firms up and voila—the result is a firm but chewy and malleable jelly that can be cut into desired shapes or sliced thinly into ito konnyaku (“thread konjac,” or konjac noodles).

Today’s modern technology has sped up the process and konjac can be found easily and abundantly in several forms—mainly cubes, noodles and cup-sized treats—in both Japanese grocery stores and Asian supermarkets internationally.

The healthy snack recently gained notoriety in the US as a delicious but potentially dangerous treat for children. Sold as sweetened jelly in small cups, konjac differs from other gelatin-based snacks in that it doesn’t begin to break down or melt upon contact with saliva—so be ready to chew, chew and chew some more in order to safely consume the sweet treat. If you’re not quite ready to incorporate it into your diet, konjac also makes a handy addition to your skin-care routine. Visit your local makeup store to pick up a konjac sponge and get exfoliating!

1314 Queen Street West Toronto M6K1L4 phone: 647-351-1314

www.guu-izakaya.com

新情報はこちらのSNSをチェック！

Guu Izakaya Toronto

GuuIzakayaTo

GuuIzakayaTo

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Drink up!

By Sarah Dickson Sake

Sparkling facts

伝統的な製法で作られた 新感覚の日本酒。

Mio 澪

【みお】

Raise your glass Forget the champagne this Valentine’s Day—sparkling sake is here to put a new twist on the occasion.

W

hen most people think of sake, they think of the drink in small cups they enjoy with their sushi. But Mio Sparkling Sake is about enhancing the experience of the beverage, bringing it out of Japanese restaurants and making it a part of any celebration.

The name “Mio” is taken from the Japanese word for the foam that trails in the water behind cruise ships. This crisp, bubbling imagery is intended to inspire the palate in anticipation of the beverage’s sweet, sparkling taste. And the celebratory atmosphere aboard luxury cruise liners is a perfect symbol of the occasions of enjoyment and revelry to which Mio is perfectly suited.

Traditional sake, modernized Mio Sparkling Sake is brewed by Takara Brewing Company in Nada, Japan, a coastal hub of sake brewing located within the city of Kobe. Thanks to the mineral-rich waters that flow near the city, Takara’s brewers are able to create a richly sweet flavour that is unique and smooth. The area also provides fertile soil where superior rice is able to grow and provide robust flavours that local brewers craft into some of the world’s finest sakes.

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Mio is created using centuries-old sake-brewing techniques, maintaining its appeal to traditionalist tastes, while the sparkle in each bottle of Mio modernizes this traditional beverage. The result is a crisp and bubbly offering similar to champagne, making it the ideal libation to serve at your next celebration.

1 2 3

A bubbling up-and-comer Sparkling sake has increased in popularity in recent years, especially among young Japanese women. With its light, fruity flavour, sparkling texture and only 5% alcohol by volume, Mio is an attractive choice even for those who aren’t frequent sake drinkers—while the beautiful design of the bottle makes it a lovely gift. Mio is also an appealing alternative for people who don’t enjoy the dryness of traditional sakes.

And for those who don’t generally see sake as a youthful beverage, sparkling sakes like Mio are turning that idea upside down. These days, even Japanese F1 race-car drivers are choosing sparkling sake to victoriously spray on each other at the end of races, instead of champagne.

Like any sparkling beverage, Mio is best served chilled. It has a soft and smooth texture that glides over the tastebuds, while the refreshing bubbly feeling dances on the tongue. Its fruity

4

Sake brewers have been practising their arts for centuries, but sparkling sake is a rather new development on the sake scene. This fizzy take on the beverage has only been gaining popularity over the last decade or so.

While traditional sake can be served warmed or chilled, when it comes to sparkling sake like Mio, chilled is the way to go.

Sweet and mellow with a fruity aroma, Mio is an ideal accompaniment to desserts, for sipping alongside appetizers or for making a festive toast. Try it in place of champagne at your next celebration!

In Japanese, MIO means the white stream of foam that trails behind cruise ships. (Likewise, this new sake is making waves of fun in drinking scenes all around the world!) And in Italian, MIO means “My.”

aroma makes it delicious on its own or ideal for any cocktail that calls for champagne, especially when mixed with orange juice and paired with brunch.

With a flavour that is slightly sweeter than other sparkling wines, Mio also pairs well with a charcuterie tray, spicy dishes or tart-tasting desserts.

Best of all, you can easily pick up a bottle of Mio at the LCBO East Asian Boutique store in Markham (3075 Highway 7 East at Woodbine Avenue.)

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© TCVB

Sakura &TOKYO

By Amanda Taylor © TCVB

© TCVB

© TCVB

Cherry blossoms take over Tokyo For a brief two weeks Tokyo becomes an ethereal wonderland as gorgeous pink blossoms bloom around the city. This beautiful show of nature is a quintessential Tokyo sight.

Every year sakura fever grips Japan, manifesting in sakura-themed snacks, exhibitions and festivals— and Tokyo hosts some of the most breathtaking displays of the season. Sakura &TOKYO exemplifies the city’s unique mixture of modern marvels and traditional beauty.

of food vendors combine with sweet and savoury smells to create a cheerful, festive atmosphere. The road to Yasukuni Shrine is lined with stalls selling traditional Japanese street foods, ice cream in exotic flavours like sweet potato and sesame, and cold cans of beer and Chu-Hi—a vodka-based cooler.

One of the best and busiest spots to enjoy the blossoms is Ueno Park. Over a thousand trees cover the ground in delicate pink petals and massive crowds turn up for hanami, or cherry-blossom viewing parties. Armed with snacks and drinks, crowds while away the hours under the pinkdappled shadows of sakura trees.

At Rikugien Garden not even nightfall can stop the party. Rikugien is famous for its beautiful backlit display at night, inviting couples to wander the garden paths under the romantic shadow of the sakura trees.

Chidori-ga-fuchi Park is popular for its remarkable view of sakura trees drooping over the moat of the Tokyo Imperial Palace. Nearby calls of dozens

FEBRUARY 2017

At the Sumida Park Sakura Festival trees line the Sumida River while Tokyo’s famous Skytree tower soars in the distance. Visitors can board a tradi-

Though the sakura season is fleeting (the blossoms only stick around for two or three weeks) their temporal beauty leaves a mark on the city that has Tokyoites looking forward to spring every year.

andtokyo.jp/en d k Official Tokyo Travel Guide

gotokyo.org What’s your &TOKYO? Visit the Tokyo Brand website to plan your next trip and connect with the many exciting experiences this city has to offer.

All photos: ©JNTO unless otherwise noted

© shutterstock

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In Roppongi sakura invade the flashy city lights to produce a beautiful fusion only Tokyo can provide.

Catch dinner with a view at a restaurant overlooking Mouri Garden, located behind Roppongi Hills Mori Tower. At night, the illuminated trees rival Rikugien for atmosphere.

tional yakatabune boat and take a leisurely trip down the river, surrounded by sakura trees.

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ME

goto kyo . o rg and to kyo . jp/e n / Tokyo is continually generating new styles and subcultures at the intersection of tradition and innovation. The city is always encountering and connecting with new ideas that create its unique charms.

The emotions and experiences that await you in Tokyo are sure to transcend your expectations. You will take on the role of the architect of your own experience as you create your ideal Tokyo rendezvous.

CONNECT WITH TOKYO FOR A NEW BEGINNING!

Featured destination

By Nina Lee Travel

異国情緒 異国 異 国情緒 情緒 れる港町。 れる る港 港町 町。 。 多様な文化が入り混じる神戸をそぞろ歩き。 多様 多 様な な文 文化 化が が入 入り り混じ 混じる神 る神戸を 戸をそぞ そぞろ ろ歩き ろ歩 歩き 歩 き。 き。 ©JNTO

Kobe

Kobe’s City Loop bus

With a long history of foreign trade, Kobe is a cosmopolitan city that is filled with international influences.

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joined together and helped the city dig itself out from the wreckage. The sincerity and passion that drove 1.38 million Japanese to help Kobe rebuild inspired the world to visit the city. Today, Kobe is a popular tourist destination in Japan, with between 3 and 5 million people visiting its Luminarie Festival every year.

Occupied since the prehistoric J˴mon period, Kobe has been documented as an important

©JNTO

As one of the first Japanese locations to open its doors to foreign trade in the 1860s, Kobe has since become well-known within Japan as a historically significant port city, home to unique provincial ambience and Gothic Revival architecture. However, the city was once virtually unknown outside of the country, save for their famous Kobe beef. Then, on January 17, 1995, the Great Hanshin earthquake shook the city to its core. In the aftermath, the world watched as communities across Japan

Historic sights and popular events

Kobe

©JNTO

【神戸】

religious location since 201 AD, when the Ikuta Shrine was founded by Empress Jinǧ. The city’s name, Kobe, originated from kamube (神戸), or kanbe, which referred to the ancient people who belonged to shrines and served in rituals. During the Nara period the city established a port on Osaka Bay, which would later become an important historic and economic focus for the city.

Beginning in the 8th century, and continuing for almost 1,100 years, save for the isolationist period, Kobe welcomed traders from China, Europe and America. After the port reopened in 1868, foreign traders brought with them many technologies that helped the country enter the modern age. These traders fell in love with the city, and they established communities and neighbourhoods near the port, building homes and shops in the architectural styles of their motherlands.

Kobe remains a popular destination for foreign nationals, with no less than 44,500 people living in the city with Chinese, Korean, Vietnamese or American heritage.

Make a stop for one of Kobe’s famous festivals Located near Osaka and between Kyoto and Hiroshima, Kobe sits on a major train corridor, making it a convenient stop for travellers. The region enjoys mild temperatures resulting from its ideal location nestled between Osaka Bay and the Rokko Mountains. Locals take advantage of the warm winters and cool summers by enjoying many outdoor activities: skiing in the local mountains, soaking in the Arima hot springs (onsen), hiking in Mount Rokko National Park or relaxing at the beach. Located north of the Rokko moun-

tain range, the Arima hot springs are situated in a valley surrounded by scenic forests. The onsen is one of the oldest in Japan, founded 1,300 years ago, and it attracts visitors from across Japan and around the world.

The ideal climate also attracts locals and visitors to Kobe’s many famous festivals and events. Every November, the Kobe Marathon sees upwards of 20,000 runners compete along a waterfront course that encourages participants to not only challenge themselves, but also to run for victims of disasters around the world. Philanthropy is a theme in many of Kobe’s famous events.

The renowned Luminarie Festival remembers the Great Hanshin earthquake and the country that came together in the wake of the disaster through a light show held annually in December.

Hand-painted lights donated by the Italian government illuminate the night sky every night for two weeks and symbolize hope, recovery and renovation. The event is near and dear to the hearts of the people of Kobe since during the earthquake and subsequent reconstruction, many had to live in darkness due to supply issues with electricity, gas and water. The Kobe Matsuri is held annually in mid-May and is also known as the citizen’s festival. The event centres on a massive parade with dancers from across the region flooding the streets and an enormous fireworks display over the harbour closing the festival. Kobe is also home to one of Japan’s largest Chinatown districts, or Nankinmachi (南京町), and Chinese New Year festivals. The district celebrates the coming spring with traditional lion dances, fireworks, acrobatic performances, special delicacies and sales in many local shops.

Venus Bridge panorama

Diversity and deliciousness in this multicultural city Nankinmachi is an exciting destination throughout the year, even without the thrill of the New Year’s festivities. Lanterns line the streets where visitors line up for panda sweet buns, Kobe beef and shumai (dumplings) at food stalls. A few blocks away, the Old Foreign Settlement, or Kyukyoryuchi (旧 居留地), is home to beautiful Gothic Revival architecture as well as many bakeries, patisseries and European cafés. Sitting at a café along the fairy-tale streets of Kyukyoryuchi with a chocolate croissant and a delicately brewed latte, one www.bentoboxmag.ca

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Kobe eats and treats

From succulent beef to crisp locally produced sake, flaky pastries to savoury shumai, Kobe is a food paradise.

Courtesy of Est Royal

©JNTO

Food & souvenirs

Est Royal Baumkuchen : Baumkuchen (“tree cake” in German) is a famous style of cake synonymous with Kobe. With its dozens and dozens of lightly toasted layers, the cake resembles a tree’s rings when cut—hence the name.

Kobe beef: A world-renowned delicacy. Only the most highly rated Tajima-ushi cattle have the required pedigree, cultivation, flavour and tender fatty marbled texture to earn this title.

Kobe wn ato Chin

could think they were in Paris. And, of course, there’s Kobe beef. The succulent, melt-in-your-mouth, tender, juicy cubes of delicious marbled steak that transport you to transcendence with a single bite.

Meat from locally raised and specially selected Tajima-ushi cattle are available in mouth-watering preparations such as steak, sukiyaki, shabu shabu and even sashimi. Accompany your meal with sake produced in Kobe’s Nada district, located east of the downtown core and accessible by train. Nada produces much of the sake made in the Kobe region, with numerous breweries offering tours and sampling, and most within walking distance of both JR Sumiyoshi and Hanshin Railways Sumiyoshi Stations.

Kobe is a cosmopolitan city with European and Chinese influences on its minimalist Japanese sensibilities. Nowhere else in the world can you have a latte and a croissant in a European neighbourhood for breakfast, spend the afternoon soaking in a historic onsen, sample local Kobe beef and sake for dinner, and spend the evening strolling underneath buildings adorned with Italian hand-painted lights.

All photos ©KOBE CONVENTION & VISITORS ASSOCIATION unless otherwise noted

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Cultural curiosity

By M Crowson Only in Japan

Ride like Mama Leave aside the minivan and take a spin on the mamachari, Japan’s most ubiquitous suburban ride. 富士スピードウェイでは対抗7時間耐久ママチャリ世界選手権も…。 You know that whole “soccer mom” stereotype, the one with the suburban mother with multiple kiddos, tons of errands and extracurriculars to keep track of? Of course, she needs a minivan to tote around all those kids and equipment—unless she’s Japanese. In that case, ditch the minivan for the mamachari (ママ チャリ), a sturdy, affordable vehicle for all her daily needs, with one major difference: the mamachari is not a car, but a bike!

Ha sweentg on, ie

Mamachari is a nickname combining the borrowed words “mama” and “chariot.”

That might sound fancy, but until recently the term was meant to make fun of these popular rides, which are more properly called “city cycles” (シティサイクル).

They’re considered bikes for moms because of their utilitarian style.

The front is mounted with a large metal basket that’s perfect for groceries, with a child seat fitting in behind it. A second seat fits in back, too, so the kids can ride with Mom in style on their way to school or the supermarket. The bike also has a cushy seat for Mom, and a low top bar for easy mounting, even in slippers or a pretty skirt. Riders can board this baby without worrying about mussing up a smart outfit, because the bike also includes mud guards and a casing for the entire bike chain.

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on Comdeies! la

Oh my!

She is too fast!

Mo mm y!

The mamachari also has some great features to maximize convenience for any spur-of-the-moment trips. It comes with a built-in lock with a nonremovable key, so there’s no need to worry about bringing a U-Lock or hunting down a place to loop your bike. Likewise, once you get to your destina-

tion, just hop off and engage the handy kickstand and you’re on your way. There’s also a long-lasting light for dusk or night riding, no batteries required.

All these convenient perks have led the bike to the “mom” reputation, but it’s actually useful to anyone who lives in an urban or suburban space.

You may be thinking: with all these sweet graband-go functions, don’t people worry their bikes will get stolen? Good question. An estimated 85% of Japanese own a bicycle, and the vast majority of those bikes are mamachari.

At a reasonable price point between ¥10,000 and ¥20,000 ($115–215), these metal beasts are uber-useful, and not exactly high fashion. So, in the unlikely event that yours gets stolen, you can just snag another. They’re actually meant to be semi-disposable, or at least capable of enduring long periods of neglect. That’s because they’re usually stored out in the elements, under partially covered bike parking lots beside apartments, schools and businesses. So the next time you need to make a grocery run or pick up the kids, think about how great it would be to hop on a mamachari and breathe in the fresh air while you dominate those chores.

Tips to get those wheels turning

RULES OF THE ROAD If you haven’t already done so, you need to try out a mamachari on your next trip to Japan.

Here are three tips to succeeding in this not-so-fast-paced cycling world.

Way DON’T use an umbrella.

y... v a e h too DON’T be a speed demon.

’s the Whatldup? ho

It used to be a common sight, but safety comes first these days, so keep your hands on those handlebars!

You may be in a hurry, but pedalling over 30 km/h is a no-no, according to Japan’s traffic rules.

DO bring your kids along.

ate I’mglain! a

h h h h h A

There’s plenty of room for the little ones on these family-friendly bikes.

Illustrations by Reiko Ema

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One-of-a-kind dining

By Sarah Dickson Restaurant in Tokyo

モチーフは明治の遊郭。 モチ モ チーフ ーフは ーフは は明 明治 治の の遊 遊郭 郭。 都内 都 内最 最大 大の のア アミ ミューズ ミュ ュー ーズ ズメ メン ント トシ ショ ョー ーレ レス スト トラ ラン。 ン。 都内最大のアミューズメントショーレストラン。

A new old theatre Travel back in time to the pleasure districts of the Edo era— with a modern twist.

The memories of your visit to Kaguwa Roppongi will linger with you long after you leave the theatre. Kaguwa offers what is referred to as “neo-Japanese” theatre: an innovative fusion of old and new ways of experiencing traditional Japanese performance art. Located in Tokyo’s Roppongi district, the performances here bring the spectacle of traditional Japanese theatre into the modern era with fast-paced choreography, bright lights and exquisitely designed costumes.

Much like the neighbourhood of Roppongi itself, the flashy setting and rich cultural experience will leave you with lasting memories.

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Kaguwa’s dinner theatre performances combine the concept of an old-world red-light district and the traditions of Japanese performance, fusing them with 21st-century style and innovation and resulting in a thrilling pageant of acrobatics and elaborate costumes. The somewhat out-of-theway location off one of Roppongi’s main streets and the unassuming exterior of the building—the kind of restaurant exterior you might still find in the backstreets of Kyoto—betray the extravagance of the performance that goes on inside.

The decor of the auditorium is minimalist in a traditional Japanese-style seating arrangement,

playing into the old-world ambience of the performance. The moveable stage was created especially for the show and is thematically designed to look like a red-light district. The stage moves quickly, as do the dancers (and their costume changes), adding drama and excitement to the performances.

Once the show starts the audience is suddenly transported to Yoshiwara, the “pleasure district” of Tokyo, where prostitution was legal during the Edo period and where kabuki gained popularity among a diverse audience. The red-light theme

Raise the curtain on a delicious meal

In this box, each dish plays its role perfectly

All the world’s a stage You don’t have to travel back in time to enjoy traditional Japanese stage performances.

Kabuki is a form of stylized stage drama, and probably the most famous type of theatre.

A kabuki actor takes the name of his teacher— usually an older male relative such as a father or uncle who passes down the trade.

is a nod to the traditional interconnectedness of skilled performance and prostitution, and the oiran- and geisha-themed performances are in keeping with the red-light theme. Traditionally, oiran were highly regarded prostitutes who also played the role of models or pin-up girls, and they were considered to be at the top of their profession. By contrast, geisha were skilled musicians, singers and dancers hired for the purpose of entertaining guests.

One thing that is not new about Kaguwa’s performances is gender roleplay. Male actors assume some of the female roles, following in the footsteps of kabuki tradition, where the cast members are all male and female characters are played by men. While kabuki has had male-only casts since the Edo period and continues as such to this day, it actually started with an exclusively female cast consisting of women who were often also available for prostitution. While there are male and female actors who play roles that accord with their gender, Kaguwa’s cast features four men who play women and are skilled in appearing traditionally feminine. Particularly notable is that the oiran in the show is played by a male actor in keeping with kabuki tradition.

While kabuki is still traditionally performed by men, all-female performance troupes such as the famous Takarazuka Revue emerged in the early 20th century. After Takarazuka refused to have their name used, a rival troupe named Shochiku Kageki Dan provided dancers for the 1957 film Sayonara, starring Marlon Brando.

Your ticket to Kaguwa includes two shows and dinner, for which you can choose a gourmet bento box or items from an a la carte menu, plus unlimited drinks from the bar. The menu includes such Japanese specialties as pork-wrapped grilled prawns and marbled horse meat sashimi, as well as an assortment of grilled vegetable dishes.

Guests are seated in a traditional Japanese-style arrangement, with tables situated on three levels to ensure no one in the audience misses a single moment of the show. The seating area can accommodate large groups, and birthday or anniversary parties enjoy a free photo session with the cast. There are two showings each night with additional matinees on weekends. Kaguwa offers an experience not to be missed!

Kaguwa

Located a two-minute walk from Roppongi Station on the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line or the Oedo Line. www.kaguwa.com 5-4-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo TEL: 03-5414-8818 OPEN HOURS Mon–Thurs & Sun 6 pm–12:30 am (Last call 12 > ®ÊUÊ À q->ÌÊÈÊ« q{Ê> Ê­ >ÃÌÊV> ÊÎ\ÎäÊ> ® Pre-show performances: Sat–Sun 3:45 pm–5 pm

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1-Day Snow Monkey Tour

Round-trip from Tokyo

1 Visit the Jigokudani Monkey Park, a worldfamous park where Japanese Macaques can be seen up close as they freely soak in the hot spring.

The hot spring bath here is exclusively for wild monkeys, the only spring of its kind in the world.

Enjoy seeing the monkeys’ expressions while they spend time relaxing in the hot spring.

2 Visit the Zenko-ji Temple, a designated National Treasure built roughly 1,400 years ago. It is one of Japan’s most remarkable wooden structures, rivalling Todai-ji Temple’s Great Buddha Hall.

3 Just a Shinkansen ride from Tokyo Station! The guide will meet participants at Nagano Station.

TOUR BASIC INFORMATION Departure city: Tokyo Visits: Nagano Duration: approx. 11 hours English-speaking guide, lunch, other admission fees and transportation costs included in the tour.

PRICE

CAD $

300

*Price is valid for the month of February 2017 *Price may fluctuate due to change in exchange rate.

HOW TO PURCHASE Reservations can be made by either telephone or email. Please contact JTB International (Canada) Ltd. at Phone: 416-367-5824 | Toll-free: 1-800-268-5942 | Email: jtbtoronto@jtbi.com | Website: www.jtb.ca

I T I N E R A RY

8:00

Depart from Tokyo Station

Head to Nagano Station via Nagano Shinkansen

110

Yudanaka Station Head to Kanbayashi Onsen-guchi via taxi.

min

35

Walk to Kanbayashi Onsen-guchi.

10

min

min

10:00

Depart from Kanbayashi Onsen-guchi

Kanbayashi Onsen-guchi

Nagano Station

Meet with the interpreter guide and participants on the “From Nagano” tour at Nagano Station.

Head to Yudanaka Station via taxi.

Walk to Jigokudani Monkey Park.

Zenko-ji Temple and Lunch 60

min

Visit Zenko-ji Temple, which boasts 1,400 years of rich history. Its main hall is a designated national treasure. *The meal for lunch includes soba (buckwheat) noodles, a Nagano specialty. As traces of buckwheat flour may be present in all dishes from the kitchen, those with allergies may be unable to enter.

Depart from Zenkoji Station 60

min

35

10

min

Jigokudani Monkey Park 50

min

At the Jigokudani Monkey Park, you can get up close with Japanese macaques as they relax in the local hot spring. This worldfamous park is one-of-a-kind: it is the only hot spring on earth that is reserved exclusively for bathing monkeys.

Take a walk through the park and watch the adorable monkeys as they unwind.

min

Yudanaka . Station Take a train from Yudanaka Station to Nagano Station.

60

min

16:30

Nagano Station

Depart from Nagano Station and head to Tokyo Station via Shinkansen.

Guide service ends at this point.

110 min

18:30

Arrive at Tokyo Station

Tour ends at Tokyo Station.

Please proceed to your next destination on your own after the tour.

*The walking path from Kanbayashi Onsen-guchi to Jigokudani Monkey Park (1.6 km one way, about 30 min on foot) may be frozen and slippery if there is snow. Please wear winter boots or other non-slip footwear to walk in.

All photos ©JNTO

For more information, please contact JTB International at 1-800-268-5942 (toll-free) or email at jtbtoronto@jtbi.com www.bentoboxmag.ca

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What’s happening?

February 2017 Events > The Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre is hosting a “Rakugo-kai” this February with the expert Rakugo star Yanagiya Sankyo! Sankyo has become renowned for the ability to portray even the subtlest feelings of a character on stage. In the art of Rakugo, a single storyteller sits on stage in traditional attire. Without getting up from their seated position and using only a paper fan or small cloth, the storyteller will detail a long and complex story, often comical and involving multiple voices to depict each character.

Other AniRevo: Winter 2017 Sunday, February 12–Monday, February 13 | General $25–40, Student $20–35, Free for children 12 and under | The Art Institute of Vancouver (2665 Renfrew St., Vancouver, British Columbia) More info: winter.animerevolution.ca > Celebrate winter with anime and cosplay!

AniRevo: Winter is dedicated to bringing its audience more content, gaming, guests and fun to spice up your winter doldrums! Join AniRevo: Winter to experience anime and Japanese culture in Vancouver, BC!

Geimaru-za Geimaru-za has origins reaching back to Japanese classical dance; its effects are dynamic, full of energy, humour and packed with emotion, similar to traditional kabuki dance. The performers in the ensemble are graduates in traditional dance from Tokyo University of the Arts, forming Geimaruza to rejuvenate the ancient art of performance for modern audiences.

This will be the only show in Canada on their tour! Don’t miss out on this spectacular show! Those who purchase tickets can receive Rakugo tickets—another show you won’t want to miss! *Tickets must be purchased by February 12 to recieve Rakugo tickets. Some conditions apply.

Wednesday, March 1, 7 pm | $50 | Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre (6 Garamond Ct., Toronto) | More info: jccc.on.ca or 416-441-2345

Film February Movie Night: Harmonium Thursday, February 23, 7 pm | $12 | Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre (6 Garamond Ct., Toronto) More info: jccc.on.ca or 416-441-2345 > Winning the Jury Prize at the 2016 Cannes Film Festival and garnering much praise at TIFF, director Koji Fukada creates a plot that is jaw-dropping, dark and mysterious. A tale of crime and punishment, this is a film that captures the audience’s tensions and portrays these anxieties on-screen.

Catch this award-winning film on the big screen!

open in selected North American theatres across the US and Canada on April 7. Written and directed by Makoto Shinkai (5 Centimeters Per Second, The Garden of Words), Your Name has already received critical acclaim and commercial success overseas, dominating the burgeoning Asian box office to quickly become the fourth-highestgrossing film of all time released in Japan— behind only Spirited Away, Titanic and Frozen.

Experience the beauty, passion and fantastical story. Don’t miss Japan’s No.1 film of 2016!

Performances

Your Name

Rakugo

Friday, April 7 | More info: www.funimationfilms. com/movie/yourname/ > Makoto Shinkai’s masterpiece Your Name will

Sunday, February 12, 2 pm | $17 | Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre (6 Garamond Ct., Toronto) More info: jccc.on.ca or 416-441-2345

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Miso Making Event Sunday, February 26, 10:30 am–12:30 pm | $45 Yuri’s Village Naturopathic Clinic (663 Greenwood Ave., Toronto) | More info: appointment@ yurisvillage.com or 416-466-5773 > Come join Yuri’s Village for a lesson on how to make traditional, homemade miso! Miso is a traditional Japanese seasoning made by fermenting soybeans with salt and koji, sometimes with rice, barley or other ingredients. One of the most popular soybean products, it is used in miso soup or added to other Japanese dishes.

Japanese Speech Contest Saturday, March 4, 1 pm–6 pm | J.J.R. MacLeod Auditorium (MS2158), University of Toronto (1 King’s College Cir., Toronto) | More info: buna.yorku.ca/ojsc/ or 647-907-7520 > The 2017 Ontario Japanese Speech Contest is celebrating its 35th year! Students who are studying Japanese at universities and language schools across Ontario present their hard work and dedication in four categories: Beginners, Intermediate, Advanced and Open. The OJSC attracts more than 50 students each year and provides the best platform for those learning Japanese to showcase their knowledge and performance of the Japanese language. The audiences can enjoy kyudo (Japanese archery) performance and a chorus by the vocal group Fuu-wa during the break.

MUJI’s gourmet marshmallows are hiding a sweet surprise!

It’s what’s on the inside that counts, and that’s what makes these marshmallows extra-special. )OXĎƒ\ DQG FKHZ\ ZLWK D GHFDGHQW Ă°OOLQJ WKHVH QHZ PDUVKPDOORZV DUH FUHDWLQJ D VHQVDWLRQÄ‹ DQG WKH\âUH SHUIHFW IRU WUHDWLQJ \RXUVHOI DQG \RXU ORYHG RQHV “I came in today on an errand, but these marshmallows were a nice surprise! I was expecting the marshmallow to be powdery and synthetic like other marshmallows I’ve tried, but this tastes natural and chewy. That’s good.

I like it. The only other food I’ve bought at MUJI is candy. I’m a little bit of a candy fan—I do have a sweet tooth. I d actually like the gummies and different chocolates, and thiss chocolate marshmallow w combines both! If some-one gave me a bag off these for Valentine’s Dayy I would be happy!�

rium Shoppers at MUJI At ial treat were in for a spec out free as the store gave met samples of its gour marshmallows.

“Oh, we know all about the candies at MUJI! We’ve tried some of the other sweets and desserts, like the cotton candy and the instant tiramisu. The chocolate strawberry marshmallow is the sweetest thing ever! Any girl who loves sugar would like this as a gift. It’s indulgent. Our tastes are a little different though! We both like ccandies that are a bit less sweet. We like tthe chocolate avour the most. It’s a classic.â€? m

— —Anna and D Dolores

—Shabana

“This is our ďŹ rst time in the store! We like it..

We haven’t seen the whole store yet but wee like the esthetic and everything looks so practi-cal and space-efďŹ cient. Are there always free samples at MUJI?! We liked the strawberry chocolate marshmallow.

The avour is a little like Pocky. It’s very intense: a strong strawberry avour. Mark is the biggest sweets fan of the two of us.

If he bought these marshmallows as a gift, he’d just end up eating them himself! It looks like Mushu thinks he’d like them too.

Sorry, Mushu, these treats aren’t for dogs!�

—Donna, Mark and Mushu For more information

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Strawberry Strawberry Chocolate Chocolate Marshmallows Marshmallows Marshmallows $3 $6 $3 MUJI’s gourmet marshmallows come in three sweet avours: fruity strawberry, creamy chocolate and decadent chocolate strawberry. They are uffy and chewy on the outside with a rich, intense ďŹ lling. Forget plain, bland marshmallows—MUJI’s marshmallows are a taste sensation sure to put a smile on your face!

MUJI Atrium

MUJI Square One

MUJI Yorkdale

Atrium, 20 Dundas St. W., C-03, Toronto | TEL: 416-591-2233

Square One Shopping Centre, 100 City Centre Dr., Mississauga TEL: 905-276-2737

3401 Dufferin St., Toronto

Store Hours: Mon–Fri 10 am–8 pm ->ĂŒĂŠÂŁĂ¤ĂŠ>“qÇʍ“ÊUĂŠ-Ă•Â˜ĂŠÂŁÂŁĂŠ>“qxʍ“

Store Hours: Mon–Fri 10 am–9 pm ->ĂŒĂŠÂ™\ÎäÊ>“q™Ê“ÊUĂŠ-Ă•Â˜ĂŠÂŁÂŁĂŠ>“qÇʍ“

Store Hours: Mon–Fri 10 am–9 pm ->ĂŒĂŠÂ™\ÎäÊ>“q™Ê“ÊUĂŠ-Ă•Â˜ĂŠÂŁÂŁĂŠ>“qÇʍ“

TEL: 416-479-1204

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Film focus

By James Heron Movie

Enjoy the view from the edge One of the year’s best Japanese films, Koji Fukada’s inquiry into the nature of sin, guilt, isolation and family can be hard to watch but is impossible to ignore.

&(/" "' ( © 2016 FUCHI NI TATSU FILM PARTNERS & COMME DES CINEMAS / FILM MOVEMENT

Harmonium (2016) Director: Koji Fukada Starring: Tadanobu Asano, Kanji Furutachi and Mariko Tsutsui Running time: 118 minutes Screenplay: Koji Fukada A Japanese family’s humdrum daily routine is fatefully upset by the arrival of a stranger from the father’s past in this slow-burning dramatic thriller.

“T

he sins of the father are to be laid upon the children,” Shakespeare tells us, quoting scripture, in The Merchant of Venice. The message is delivered again in Koji Fukada’s harrowing new film Harmonium. It was the winner of the Jury Prize in the Un Certain Regard section at this year’s Cannes Film Festival and is one of TIFF’s strongest Japanese entries.

In Harmonium Fukada introduces us to a family and then sets in motion its collapse. As with his 2011 film Hospitalitie, he tells the story of an interloper moving in on a family and family-run business. However, where that film was comedic in tone, Harmonium casts a similar tale as tragedy.

The film opens on a smugly contented suburban couple and their child: Toshio, his wife Akie and their precocious daughter Hotaru, who live in a small house with an adjoining metal shop. One day a stranger, the impeccably dressed Mr. Yasaka, appears at their door, explaining that he has just been released from prison.

Akie is mortified when Toshio hires Yasaka immediately as a shop assistant and offers him a spare room in which to live, but things start off well; he is polite, diligent in his work and quickly 32

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Tadanobu Asano’s malevolent stillness and sinister charisma make for one of cinema’s unforgettable villains

ingratiates himself with both mother and daughter.

Yet even as Akie’s interest in Yasaka begins to stray toward the sexual, Toshio can only observe wordlessly and it becomes obvious that these two men share some dark past. There is something ominous in Yasaka’s presence, a malevolent stillness that unnerves even as it charms. Akie finally spurns Yasaka’s sexual advances and almost immediately a tragic accident is visited upon one of the family members. Yasaka then disappears.

The film’s second half picks up eight years later.

The broken and desperate family—Toshio bristling with impotent rage, Akie hollowed out by grief and guilt—searches for Yasaka to find answers and presumably revenge. When a new assistant, Takashi, comes to work in the shop, he is revealed to have an unwitting connection to the Yasaka affair. From there the film builds to an almost unbearably intense and heartrending climax.

Harmonium is a study of sin and guilt, punishment and redemption. At the same time it is Fukada’s enquiry into the meaning of family and the fundamental loneliness of individuals obliged

to exist in what the director describes as “an illusory construction which had once protected us, while smothering us at the same time.”

This is a bleak premise but the film is anything but. It is bracing to watch a filmmaker work at this level of control. He pins the viewer to their seat like a butterfly. We can only watch in stunned fascination. Mariko Tsutsui and Kanji Furutachi’s performances as Akie and Toshio are gut-wrenching while Tadanobu Asano’s Yasaka is unforgettable; his sinister charisma haunts the film even in his extended absence in the second half. Fukada bookends his film with a pair of images of the family in repose at the waterside, one image visually mirroring the other—yet the circumstances are terrifyingly different. The film’s Japanese title translates as “On the Brink” and that is where Fukada takes us: to a doomed and dizzying place where we can do nothing but stare into the abyss.

Harmonium is scheduled to screen at the Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre on February 23. For more info, visit jccc.on.ca.

Taste of

Japan Week FEBRUARY 17 - 25, 2017

๺ 㘩

WIN A TRIP FOR TWO TO JAPAN! Air Tickets & 2 Nights Hotel

PA R T I C I PAT I N G R E S TA U R A N T S Don Don Ichiriki

Edo

Ematei

Kingyo

Miku

ilovejapan.ca

Ginko Nami

GUU Shoushin

#TasteOf JapanWeek

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35

Memoir ࡔ ࡕ ࠕ

By KATHLEEN O’HAGAN

One fateful day, I decided I was ready to take my relationship with curry to the next level. See, this particular curry shop had spice levels that ranged from 1 (mild) to 10 (suicide). I had never gone higher than 4 or 5 (mostly because I thought it was the perfect mix of sweet and spicy), so a jump to 10 was dramatic to say the least. When I ordered, Obasan tried to talk some sense into me.

Surely I had made a mistake, she laughed. Level 10 was way too spicy for me. But her warning only made me want it more. “No, no,” I assured her. “I can handle spicy food. I lived in Korea!”

Illustration by Reiko Ema

Curry to cry for

The spiciest curry I’ve ever eaten wasn’t Thai or Indian— nope, it was Japanese.

If yyou’ve ever tried Japanese curry, you might find this story hard to yo believe. Or you might simply asbe sume I’m one of those delicate folk su who are unable to handle spice. Let me stop you right there.

The truth is, I adore spicy food. I eat Indian and Thai food—not to mention Mexican and southern Italian and Korean—on the regular. I actually lived in Korea and ate food that was literally red-hot for six months of my life.

But Japan isn’t known for its spicy foods, so I admit I was surprised (and a little disappointed) when I first tried your average Japanese curry. It wasn’t spicy, but … sweet?! Thankfully, my lunch

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She smiled nervously and headed to the kitchen to place my order. When she came back with my hot, steaming, beautiful plate of curry, she stood by and watched as I confidently took my first bite.

(See? It’s not so bad.) I chewed, and felt it on parts of my tongue I didn’t even know existed. (Mmm, spicy!) Then I swallowed. (OUCH!) With each bite, the experience became more painful. Excruciating, even. I wasn’t sweating.

And my tongue wasn’t burning. Instead, it felt like razor blades were waging war on my throat.

companion pointed me in the direction of the spice shaker and I happily devoured my meal.

I had eaten less than a quarter of my plate when I had to admit defeat.

It wasn’t long before I had fallen madly in love with Japanese curry. It became one of my favourite dishes in Japan, and I was known for hanging out at the local Coco Ichiban (a fast food curry chain with a huge selection) several times a week.

At that moment, I could feel my eyes starting to water. I blamed it on my mangled throat, but I wouldn’t be surprised if my heart had broken a little that day. Yep, that was the day I cried over a bowl of curry.

After I moved to a smaller city, where a momand-pop curry shop replaced the famous chain, I realized that as much as I had adored the popular option, home-cooked curry was by far superior in quality and taste. Soon, the shop’s Obasan (auntie) recognized me each time I’d show up for my weekly (or tri-weekly?) curry. After a while she knew me by name.

KATHLEEN O’HAGAN Kathleen spent years living in and travelling around Japan—and blogging about her adventures while she was at it. Now back in Toronto, Kathleen continues to write about her life-changing experience abroad when she can—in between discovering new and delicious Japanese restaurants in the city, working as a copywriter and raising her baby boy.

ly owner Kaiju’s franiendChen Bri

Staff

Care for some curry?

Try JapatnheeseSaturday sp tofu che ecial: esecake!

Amanda Plyley

Five years in Asia broade ned Amanda’s horizons—and those of her tastebuds. From eating kimchi for breakfast to grabbing a midnight snack at Beijing’s night market, she’s always open to tryin g new foods. These days, you ’ll often find her slurping ramen with her nose in a book somewhere in Toro nto.

One local restaurateur is determined to keep the bellies of Torontonians warm and full this winter.

I

n Japan and select other countries in Asia, there is a Japanese meal that has been hitting the spot as a mildly spicy, subtly sweet comfort dish for the better part of a century. Ramen and sushi may be the first scrumptious eats that come to mind but, in fact, it’s Japanese curry that takes the cake—so to speak.

Four years ago, Brian Chen opened Kaiju, a quick and easy dine-in or take-out spot in the food court of a downtown shopping centre, with the aim of introducing Japanese curry to busy Toronto professionals, students and tourists who frequent the Yonge and Gerrard area.

Wildly popular across the Pacific, Japanese curry is only just beginning to attract the attention it deserves here in the West. Having worked in the restaurant industry for more than 20 years, Brian has since established Kaiju as a trusted name in

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the business of serving up this sweet, savoury, gravy-like bowl of satisfying goodness.

Hungry yet? You’re in for a treat. Traditionally milder than its Thai and Indian cousins, Japanese curry nonetheless doesn’t cut any culinary corners. Kaiju mixes 14 ingredients to produce its signature dish, and customers can choose from four levels of spice to kick things up a notch. Like it hot? Ask for the restaurant’s homemade, extraspicy sauce as a tiny side dish—just one teaspoon packs a powerful punch!

Small in size but offering a robust menu of favourites like chicken and pork katsu (cutlet, served with rice and curry), fish fillet and karaage (Japanese fried chicken), Kaiju is a one-stop shop for hearty comfort foods that aren’t always easy to find in Toronto. And this is the type of small, lo-

cally owned business you’ll be happy to support: while I gorged on my katsu and curry, Brian chatted away with regular customers who have clearly become old friends. One man in line remarked that he had come from the other side of town but the food was well worth the trip.

My tummy rumbled its agreement.

One last tip: on your way out, ask for a jar of kaya, Kaiju’s Malaysian coconut jam made from Brian’s mother’s recipe. Spread it on toast to start your day in a really sweet way.

Kaiju Toronto The Shops at Aura, #51 Lower Food Court, 384 Yonge St., Toronto | 647-748-6338 | www.kaijutoronto.com "* \Ê q À Ê££Ê> qnÊ« ÊUÊ->ÌÊ£ÓÊ« qnÊ« ÊUÊ-Õ ÊV Ãi`