AUSTRALIAN ULTRATRAVEL

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ultratravel The Daily Telegraph

IN ASSOCIATION WITH AUSTRALIA.COM

OCTOBER 2011

There’s nothing like

AUSTRALIA

*

Reef and Rainforest Cape Tribulation, where the Great Barrier Reef meets Daintree National Park, Queensland

LOUIS DE BERNIERES OUT WEST DARCEY BUSSELL IN SYDNEY SIMON BATES ON WINE &LCKI8KI8M<C WILDLIFE

There’s nothing like being inspired by the loc als

There’s nothing lik e hanging out of a helicopter exploring the fabu lous Whitsunday’s on an air safari. Tra cy Taylo r, Ca rin a, QL D

ing w imm n s e k i l g fi n o thin in g al o o r e e ’s e r e Th on N ur tl e s w i th t tr al ia r n Au s e IC t s e W d a le , V A sp en L is a L a

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You can now plan your trip to Australia before you even arrive with nothinglikeaustralia.com/uk - the ultimate insider’s guide. We asked the locals to tell us about the most incredible holiday experiences on their doorstep and they came up with thousands of reasons why there’s nothing like Australia. Packed with inspiration, our interactive map features 3,500 of the most unique Aussie experiences – it’s the perfect place to start planning your own Australian adventure.

nothinglikeaustralia.com/uk

There’s n o thing li ke sippin crisp gla g a cold, ss o f M o r n ing ton P wine ove eninsula rlo oking the vine su m m e r s on a ’s af tern o on. Susan H e a ly, G

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Unbelievable Uluru At Longitude 131˚, a wilderness camp with 15 luxury tents, guests wake up to views of Australia’s most iconic rock (page 30)

COVER IMAGE: ALAMY; GETTY

CONTENTS Features

12 The road less travelled On a memorable drive from Sydney to Melbourne, Charles Starmer-Smith shuns the Hume Highway and opts for the less familiar east coast route, with its forest reserves, lagoons, kayaking spots and unexpected penguin colonies 16 Six great Australian journeys How to see the best of the continent by car, train, bicycle or boat 18 From classic to smooth In South Australia, DJ Simon Bates enjoys the fine wines of the Barossa Valley, the gourmet treats of Adelaide and the untamed wilderness and wildlife of Kangaroo Island 24 Go west From atmospheric mining towns and haunting Aboriginal art to peerless seafood, Western Australia

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has it all – and its climate makes it the perfect year-round destination. Louis de Bernières even found inspiration for his book Red Dog there 28 A traveller’s calendar Australia has something to offer at every time of year. Jolyon Attwooll draws up a plan for all seasons 30 Uluru, Alice and more How to get the most out of an Outback trip to Australia’s extraordinary Red Centre

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34 Tropic of adventure In North Queensland, Mark Chipperfield explores the best of both worlds: the aquatic pleasures of the Great Barrier Reef plus the rich flora and fauna of Daintree National Park

Regulars 6 The season Festivals, events, celebrations – and when to go where 9 Ultratravel accessories Essentials for the flight Down Under and during your stay; plus the very best Australian-made goods, from beachwear and skincare products to classic RM Williams boots

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40 Ultratravel directory New hotels in Sydney and Perth; wine and food tours; an Aboriginal-run eco-lodge in a magical maze of waterways; and helicopter tours from a safari lodge in a birder’s paradise 42 Travelling life British ballerina Darcey Bussell gives tips on how to get the most from Australia, where she moved in 2008

© Telegraph Group Limited 2011. Published by TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, and printed by Polestar UK Limited. Colour reproduction by wearefmg.com. Not to be sold separately from The Daily Telegraph. Ultratravel is a registered trademark licensed to The Daily Telegraph by Nick Perry.

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WHERE TO BE WHAT TO SEE HOW TO BOOK IT Emirates Melbourne Cup November 1, 2011 Melbourne, Victoria

“The race that stops a nation” takes place on the first Tuesday of November – and the name is no misnomer. All over Australia, punters watch the horse-racing live on television and, in Melbourne itself, the day is declared a public holiday, with 100,000 spectators flocking to Flemington Racecourse to see it. In the build-up, there are gala dinners, glamorous luncheons and a parade. If you miss this year’s Cup – the 151st – book for 2012, when the event takes place on November 6. melbournecup.com

Swisse Mark Webber Challenge December 7-11, 2011 Tasmania

After a two-year absence, during which the Australian Formula 1 champion recovered from a broken leg, the four-day charity event that he founded returns, taking competitors on a journey through 220 miles of Tasmanian countryside. Whether trekking, mountain biking, kayaking, swimming or rafting, they will raise money for the Leukemia Foundation and the Save the Tasmania Devil campaign. Spectator and competitor packages will shortly be available. markwebbertasmaniachallenge.com

New Year’s Eve fireworks December 31, 2011 Nationwide

This year’s celebrations will be especially spirited because and Monday to recover. In Sydney, one of the best views of the fireworks will be from the 25th-floor restaurant of the Bayview Boulevard hotel, while harbour cruises will let spectators watch from the water. In Perth, one highlight will be a Hawaiian Beach Party, with stunning views of the illuminated city. A dedicated website gives details of what’s on in Sydney, Melbourne, Perth, Brisbane, Gold Coast, Canberra, Adelaide and Hobart. newyearseve.com.au

Adelaide Fringe

PHOTOSHOT; GETTY; REX; PHOTOLIBRARY; REUTERS

New Year’s Eve falls on a Saturday, giving revellers Sunday

TheAUST

February 24-March 18, 2012 Adelaide, South Australia For 24 glorious summer nights, the pubs, cinemas, theatres, streets and parks of Adelaide become venues for this, the world’s second-largest fringe festival after Edinburgh’s. More than 750 acts will be performed by 3,500 individuals, from clowns, jugglers and risqué comics to musicians and burlesque artists. Founded in 1960, this annual event attracts more than 300,000 visitors and begins with a sensational opening parade in which 1,000 choreographed performers move through the east end of the city. adelaidefringe.com.au

Ningaloo Reef whale sharks March-June Ningaloo, Western Australia

More than 220 species of coral live in the Indian Ocean off Western

Barramundi Classic

Australia, and their spawning attracts Ningaloo Reef’s most popular

May 8-14, 2012 Darwin, Northern Territory

visitor – the whale shark (Rhiniodom typhus), the largest fish in the sea.

Barramundi fishing is a national obsession in Australia, and this is

The 130-mile reef fringes the shore at some points, such as Turquoise

the sport’s premier event. Every May, the community-based Darwin

Bay, where dolphins, manta rays, humpback whales and nesting

Game Fishing Club hosts the “Barra Classic” at Banyan Farm, on the

loggerhead turtles are often seen. Ningaloo was this year listed as

famous Daly River. Barramundi (meaning “large-scaled river fish” in

a World Heritage site and visitors have a choice of superb places to

one of Queensland’s Aboriginal languages) are caught, measured,

stay, from Sal Salis, with its spacious wilderness tents set among the

tagged and released by teams of three; scores are accumulated

white dunes of Cape Range National Park, to new resort developments

daily by length. The Barra Classic is an invitation-only tournament

such as Assured Narina Studios in Exmouth and, 90 minutes south,

and the 45 places are hotly contested by anglers from around the

Coral Bay View in Coral Bay. salsalis.com; westernaustralia.com

world as well as Australia. darwingamefishingclub.com.au

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Australian Fashion Week May, 2012 Sydney, New South Wales

Early in the month (exact dates are yet to be confirmed), the buzz of Sydney will be amplified further as designers, models and the media descend on Circular Quay for a week of events showcasing the seasonal collections of Australian and Asia-Pacific designers. Past shows have helped raise the profile of Lisa Maree, Alex Perry, Zimmerman, Toni Maticevski and Collette Dinnigan, among others. rafw.com.au

RALIAN SEASON 2011-12 Audi Hamilton Island Race Week

And looking further ahead…

Australia’s biggest and most prestigious offshore sailing event,

place from March 30 to April 7, luring oenophiles with its

the equivalent of Cowes, features a new superyacht category

laid-back programme of wine workshops, cellar visits and

and a social programme focused on food and fashion. Exact

tastings, combined with live jazz, literary events, craft fairs,

dates are to be confirmed, as is the shore-based itinerary, but this

concerts and the famous Festival Ball – all made doubly

year’s highlights included a cruise collection by Australian fashion

palatable by the beautiful autumn weather in South

designer Collette Dinnigan, a series of chef’s table dinners and an

Australia. barossavintagefestival.com.au

appearance by Dannii Minogue. hamiltonislandraceweek.com.au

In June and July, 2013, the Lions Tour is expected to

August, 2012 Hamilton Island, Queensland

In 2013, the biennial Barossa Vintage Festival takes

attract 40,000 rugby fans as the British and Irish Lions – the most famous touring side in the world – play six provincial

Ceduna Oysterfest

October 6-7, 2012 Ceduna, South Australia The annual Oysterfest in Ceduna, on the Western Eyre Peninsula, is a big draw for visitors looking to enjoy a hedonistic weekend in the spring sunshine. On the menu are plump, succulent oysters from Smoky Bay and Denial Bay farms, which together account for about 20 per cent of the state’s production. Savour them either cooked or raw with a glass of chilled white wine, watch a shucking contest and enjoy the live music, fireworks and family fun. ceduna.net

games and three test matches in the tournament’s 125th year. Demand for tickets is likely to exceed supply, so best book now. lionstour.com

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ACCESSORIES

Capacious hold-all £1,100, by William & Son (020 7493 8385, williamandson.com). With main luggage in the aircraft hold, the No 1 in-flight/stopover essential is a large, easy-to-scrabble-in bag – to hold an iPad, a Kindle and each of the items shown here.

Heavy-duty moisturisers Travel kit, £80, and Daily Serum, £193 (intraceuticals.com); Alpha H Liquid Gold, £31.50 (cultbeauty. co.uk), all useful in the battle to avoid looking unalluringly dehydrated on arrival.

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Cashmere blanket £485 by Holland and Holland (020 7499 4411, hollandandholland.com). Luxuriously cosy comfort for when the in-flight air-con turns icy – and useful for “rugging up” in the Outback during a chilly dawn trip to Uluru.

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Swimwear £132 by Seafolly (asos.com). For a quick swim in Singapore, where Changi’s airport pool provides a revitalising dip on the stopover en route to Sydney. The most famous of Australia’s swimwear brands, Seafolly – worn by Sienna Miller, Kate Moss, et al – is famous for its fit.

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In-flight socks £16 by Perilla (01886 853615, perilla.co.uk). Made of alpaca wool – softer than cashmere, longer-lasting, and naturally anti-bacterial. Even if worn on every day of a tour across Australia, alpaca socks will remain fragrant.

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Sleep mask £12.95 (020 8449 3645, hypnosishealthcare.com). Made of padded velour, with a stretchy band to hold it firmly in place, this not only cuts out about 98 per cent of light but is so comfortable it’s hard to take off. Easily the best of its kind. Jetlag salvation.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDY BARTER; TROLLEY (£178) SUPPLIED BY SIMPLYSTAINLESSLTD.CO.UK

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Ready for take-off On the flight to Australia, comfort is paramount. We pick six essentials for the journey and 10 ultra-useful items for your stay

Top shelf Satellite phone £500 (020 7120 0009, satphone.co.uk). Ideal for Outback travel; sends and receives texts as well. Middle shelf Versatile pouch £75 (01234 712266, tusting.co.uk). Leather; washable lining. Earphones £175 (bang-olufsen.com). These EarSet3i phones stay put; top sound, too. Sunglasses £200 (silhouette.com). With protective 35SPF lenses. Satnav £110 (0808 238 0000, garmin.co.uk). With Australian maps to download. Vibrating watch alarm £269 (020 7253 3234, retailfacility.co.uk). Good for jet lag. Bottom shelf Journal £69 (0845 0526900, aspinaloflondon.com). Pen £135 (parkerpen.com). The smooth Ingenuity won’t leak on the plane. Dual SIM Android phone £249 (020 7382 8250, viewsoniceurope.com). Cuts usage costs. Camera £644; viewfinder, £275 (020 7629 1351, leica-camera.co.uk). LED screens are useless in sunshine. COMPILED BY ADRIAANE PIELOU

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LCKI8KI8M<C ACCESSORIES

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FMG PHOTOGRAPHY; LEATHER BACKGROUND SUPPLIED BY BRIDGE OF WEIR LEATHER COMPANY (BOWLEATHER.CO.UK)

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1 Craftsmen boots ÂŁ255 (01767 601145, rmwilliams.com). Super-comfortable, from the famous company started in 1932 in an iron shed in Prospect, South Australia – now an atmospheric museum. 2 Sunhats ÂŁ135, by Helen Kaminksi (0845 206 2000, heidiklein.com). Handmade from raffia crochet and they roll up, too – perfect for travel. 3 Pearl and sliced-diamond earrings ÂŁ22,000 (020 7201 8582, talismangallery.co.uk). Pearl fishing was a major industry in Broome, Australia, in the 19th century and the legacy lives on. 4 Embroidered cotton tunic ÂŁ255 by Collette Dinnigan (0800 044 5700, net-a-porter.com). Most Australian fashion designers focus on beach life but her elegance puts Dinnigan in a class of her own. 5 Bikini ÂŁ132 by Seafolly (asos.com). Australian beachwear is outstanding. Other top brands include We Are Handsome, Zimmerman (sold at matchesfashion.com), Sunseeker, Rip Curl, Billabong and Seventh Wonderland. 6 Holdall ÂŁ350 by RM Williams, as before. 7 Papaw cream ÂŁ4.20/ÂŁ9.50 (020 8337 3097, pawpawshop.co.uk). “The finest antisepticâ€?, wrote Dr TP Lucas in 1906 of Australia’s favourite cure-all; papaw (papaya) soothes, heals and hydrates, too. 8 T-shirt Sass & Bide, ÂŁ140 (net-a-porter). Cuff ÂŁ105, available from Selfridges (rachaelruddick.com)

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MadeinAustralia

These home-grown brands can be found in every city Down Under – but if you don’t have time to shop, or sufficient room in your luggage, they are available in Britain

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New South Wales & Victoria

Charles Starmer-Smith set out on a road trip from Sydney down the sun-kissed east coast to Melbourne. The route took him through forest reserves and fishing villages to deserted beaches, eerie lagoons and an islet teeming with penguins. Take the road less travelled, he urges: there’s nothing like seeing another side of Australia

Gilded ute The author (in white T-shirt, driving his utility vehicle, and kayaking) embarked on an odyssey that took him to Montague Island and its lighthouse (main picture); Bannisters restaurant at Mollymook Beach, owned by Rick Stein (top right); idyllic Jervis Bay (bottom right); and along the sweeping arc of Sea Cliff Bridge (bottom left) in Illawarra PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAMES BRAUND

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ROAD

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canning the horizon for a sign of the humpback whales that wallow in the bays of Montague Island, we heard a high-pitched moan from the dense mat-rush. I glanced at our guide for an explanation. “Yep, that’ll be the lesser spotted mattress shaker,� said Mark Westwood, who has been taking tours out to this tiny slab of rock in New South Wales for the best part of 20 years. “Seldom seen, always heard.� Our confused looks soon broke into cackles of laughter. He could be forgiven for having reproduction on his mind as tiny black-and-white lives were created all around us. Nesting beneath the thick foliage, the colony of Little Penguins on this islet off Narooma was flourishing. Treasured by the Aboriginal peoples who named it Baranguba, Montague Island is a magical place. The magnificent 130-year-old lighthouse standing at its summit offers unsurpassed views over the Eurobodalla coastline, but it is the wildlife that has put the spotlight on the island. Visitors can walk among the penguins (the largest colony in New South Wales), snorkel with fur seals (New Zealand and Australian varieties), or track southern humpback whales on their annual migration. With visitor numbers strictly limited, it felt at times like my own private wildlife show with Mark providing the enthusiastic commentary. “Pretty bloody sexy isn’t it?� he said, as he lifted up one of the nesting boxes to reveal a penguin mother sheltering her newly-laid eggs. I nodded, hoping the word might have a slightly different connotation Down Under. The island was just one of a dozen memorable stops on my road trip - with diversions, 800 miles - from Sydney to Melbourne. Driving my white “ute�, a pasty Pom’s attempt to blend in with the local population, I had set out through the Sydney suburbs two days previously, shunning the Hume Highway in favour of the route down the lesser-known east coast, then along the south coast. A steady stream of traffic, a wrong turning or two and a heated exchange with Sheila (the ever-so-condescending satnav) meant I made slow progress out of the city. Familiar names came and went – Bondi, Bronte, Coogee,

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Botany Bay – magnets for the joggers, swimmers and surfers who encapsulate Australia’s enviable outdoor lifestyle. But it was only when the sleepy backwaters of Kiama and Berry had been and gone and I had reached the southern banks of the Shoalhaven River, that I felt the road trip had truly begun. The pristine waters and white sand shores of Jervis Bay National Park beckoned, but first my journey took me inland through the rainforest canopy to Paperbark Camp. There I was met by Ben Hutchings, whose parents were the architects of this luxury tented camp (glamping, if you must). As we sat under the tall gum trees on the veranda of the site’s ochre-toned Gunyah restaurant, Ben explained how they had left their publishing and engineering jobs to follow a pipe dream hatched over sundowners at a private safari camp in Africa. They decided that tented luxury (teak decking, spacious double beds, ensuite bathrooms) was a concept that would translate well to Australia. It was a few years before they found this 100-acre site of untouched bushland, and it took even longer to cut through the reams of red tape. However, it was worth the wait. With my hunger sated by a lunch of local line-caught kingfish with pumpkin and ginger purÊe, we set off for Jervis Bay to explore the national park from the water. Waved off by Janet Boardman, from the head office of her Jervis Bay Kayak Company in Huskisson, we paddled into waters as flat as a mill pond. A kangaroo looked on quizzically as we skirted some rocks before drifting gently towards the beach. Dozens of animal tracks criss-crossed the sands, left by animals that were safe in the knowledge that no human predator is allowed to step on shore. It can take a while to get the city out of the system, but this is a great place to accelerate that process. Nor am I the only Pom to wax lyrical about the region. Just a little way down the Illawarra coast is the home of Cornish chef Rick Stein, who has also put his name to a local restaurant. Set on the clifftops above beautiful Mollymook Beach, near Ulladulla, Bannisters is a boutique hotel-cum-restaurant just three hours from Sydney. Transformed from a 1970s motel, it has rooms with sweeping ocean views, vast bathrooms, private balconies and all the mod cons. If you are really looking to push the boat out, then rent Stein’s own grand property just up the road, which comes complete with its own high-spec fitted kitchen and 12-person hot tub.

I had missed Stein by a week, but his personality was stamped all over the restaurant, from the seafood-heavy menu and Asian influences in the kitchen to the Cornish accent of Julian Lloyd, the head chef. He began working for Stein at the age of 14, after his father, a fisherman who sold seafood to the “Padstein� empire, mentioned that his son was “into cooking�. Lloyd has never looked back. I found him sitting at the bar, tasting his latest seafood creation, his fresh face and floppy hair more boy-band than executive chef. “I started out doing all the rubbish jobs in Rick’s kitchens – chopping vegetables, washing pans – but I gradually worked my way up,� he said. “It was when I was looking to set up on my own that Rick offered me the chance to head up the restaurant here. It was an opportunity I couldn’t pass up.� The result of their collaboration is a menu that celebrates the region’s wonderful seafood: local flathead, kingfish, trevally and sand whiting; oysters from Batemans Bay; Merimbula prawns and more. I opted for succulent ravioli lobster, followed by an Indonesian-style fish curry with just the right amount of spice, all served up in informal surroundings by staff who, refreshingly, refuse to stand on ceremony. It was easy to see why the walls are adorned with awards. Such is the curse of jet lag, I found myself wandering down to Mollymook Beach at dawn to discover a perfect crescent of sand being pounded by a steady stream of rollers. Young surfers were catching the first waves of the season, silhouetted against the deep-red horizon. Reluctantly, I left Mollymook behind me, crossing whitewashed bridges and coastal passes and sweeping over the rolling hills towards Narooma for my memorable trip to Montague Island. It was mid-afternoon by the time the boat returned me to terra firma and I set out for the artisan community of Tilba Tilba, stopping for a caffeine fix amid its 19th-century weatherboard architecture. By the time I reached Moorhen Cove, a luxury townhouse on the outskirts of Bermagui, the sun was beginning to set. I strolled down to Blue Wave Seafoods for the best fish and chips in town and sat on the veranda staring out over the wetlands, a mecca for birdwatchers. Sydney suddenly felt a very long way away. The next morning saw my ute winding through the rich dairy farmland of the Bega Valley, a highlight of the week. Over every brow of this undulating landscape, another panorama seemed to open up. I took the

PHOTOLIBRARY; IMAGE BRIEF/PRUE RUSCOE; DICK SWEENEY

Water world (left to right) Water-sculpted rocks at Wilson’s Promontory; a surfer; Gippsland Lakes, the largest inland waterway in the southern hemisphere; kingfish at Bannisters; and ‘glamping’ at Paperbark Camp

opportunity to get off the main road and thunder down unmarked farm tracks, throwing up dust in my wake in pursuit of comical places such as Bunga Bunga. Instead of nubile young models and a sexagenarian Italian, I had to content myself with a scene from a rural idyll: a family, all on horseback, galloping across open pasture past their weather-burnished farmhouse. The onset of the dense forests of Croajingolong National Park marked the end of New South Wales and the beginning of Victoria. Without the panoramic vistas to distract me, I began to notice more trivial things like the locals’ endearing inability to do understatement: from the “Drink drive? Bloody idiot� road signs to the fire warnings that go from moderate to high, to very high, to severe, to extreme, to catastrophic. But few can overstate the beauty of the great Gippsland Lakes, the largest inland waterway in the southern hemisphere. Drawing up in the tiny backwater of Metung, I was pleasantly surprised by the palatial accommodation on offer. With harbour views, private saunas and hot tubs on balconies, the 5 Knots boutique apartments offered the slower pace of life that their name suggests. Greeted next morning by Sascha Johns of Riviera Nautic, I joined her on one of her company’s retro cruisers to navigate the area’s vast network of lakes, marshes and lagoons. In what was becoming a theme for the trip, she and her husband had turned their backs on the rat race in favour of a life messing about on boats. Here, the laissez-faire attitude was in sharp contrast to the health-and-safety culture that pervades Australian life. Because the lakes are sheltered from the ocean swells by the magnificent Ninety Mile Beach, you do not even need a license to charter one of Riviera Nautic’s boats: gnarled old sea dogs and novice sailors are equally welcome. I had arrived on a day of particular excitement, as local news stations announced breathlessly that a new species of dolphin had been discovered in the lakes. As if on cue, a pod of dolphins swept alongside the boat, diving beneath the shimmering waters. “We’ve just radio’d them in for you – plain old bottlenoses, I’m afraid,� quipped our skipper. “I just hope their batteries don’t run out.� After working up an appetite on the water, I drove on to the tiny fishing village of Port Albert – an unlikely

setting for a top-notch restaurant that has been getting rave reviews. On the site of an old fishing co-op, Wildfish is owned by Michael Dobson, a fifth-generation fisherman. After a lengthy stint living the high life while working on superyachts for the likes of Billy Connolly and Richard Branson, the prodigal son has returned to Port Albert, where his family has lived for 165 years. “I always wanted to come back and open this place,� he told me. “Restaurant experience is something I’m short on, but I know how to cook fish.� As I tucked into beautifully tender King George whiting, accompanied by a glass of crisp Narkojee chardonnay, I couldn’t disagree. After lunch, I turned back on myself to head down to Seaspray and finally set foot on the fabled sands of Ninety Mile Beach. The shore was deserted but for an elderly gentleman staggering out of the water, his pinkish body

VISITORS CAN WALK AMONG PENGUINS, SNORKEL WITH FUR SEALS OR TRACK WHALES

clench a fist when it was confirmed that the main section of the park would reopen the following week. Next day I was given a sneak preview. Turning things around has been a huge job, and workers were still busy repairing pathways, bridges and buildings. The track up to Mount Oberon remains closed and a handful of the 30-plus hiking routes in the area may never reopen, but the landscape has lost none of its other-worldly appeal. Seemingly from every vantage point, mountains rise, valleys plunge and islands are scattered like loose change across the deep-blue ocean. We wandered along rainforest tracks teeming with wildlife, through river basins and into cool fern gullies, past granite cliffs and dazzling stretches of sand. The most amazing was Squeaky Beach, where I couldn’t stop a smile creeping across my face as the white quartz sands produced the required noise under foot. It was my final stop before reaching the bohemian streets of Melbourne and it seemed a fitting end, reinforcing my perception that you can only discover the real Australia by shunning the big box-office hits in favour of the country’s lesser-known productions. As they say in these parts: “Still thinking of giving the south coast a miss? Don’t be a bloody idiot�. Overleaf, six other great Australian journeys

THE DETAILS ACCOMMODATION Paperbark Camp (00 612 4441 6066,

and peach-coloured swim hat giving him an unnerving resemblance to an overgrown shrimp. “First swim of the season?� I ventured, scarcely believing he could bear to bathe in these 12C waters. “You’ve gotta be joking mate,� he replied. “I haven’t missed a day’s swimming on these shores for 32 years, come hell or high water.� For the people of nearby Wilsons Promontory (known affectionately as “the Prom�), the past few years have been exactly that. First came a series of wildfires in 2009 that devastated more than half of the 400,000-hectare park on the southernmost tip of mainland Australia. This was followed by unprecedented floods in March, bringing a torrent of water that swept away everything in its path, including tourism-related businesses. That night, I noticed Andrew – the affable owner of the beautiful Limosa Rise holiday cottages where I was staying (think roaring log fires and panoramic ocean views) – quietly

paperbarkcamp.com.au), rooms from A$370 (ÂŁ230) per night; Bannisters (00 612 4455 3044, bannisters.com.au) from A$250 (ÂŁ157); Moorhen Cove (00 612 6493 4004, moorhencove.com) from A$250 (ÂŁ156); 5 Knots (00 613 5156 2462, 5knots.com.au) from A$500 (ÂŁ312) for the three-bedroom penthouse; Limosa Rise (00 613 5687 1135, limosarise.com.au) from A$250 (ÂŁ156). RESTAURANTS Rick Stein at Bannisters (as above); Blue Wave Seafood (00 612 6493 5725, bluewaveseafood.com.au); Wildfish (00 613 5183 2007, wildfish-restaurant.com.au). ACTIVITIES Jervis Bay Kayaks (jervisbaykayaks.com.au); Montague Island (montagueisland.com.au); Riviera Nautic (rivieranautic.com.au); Wilsons Promontory (parks.vic.gov.au). FURTHER INFORMATION sydneymelbournetouring.com.au; visitnsw.com; visitmelbourne.com

For further information and to find out more about why there’s nothing like the Sydney to Melbourne Coastal Drive, visit Australia.com

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6 GREAT AUSTRALIAN JOURNEYS excursions to Uluru (Ayers Rock), Kakadu National Park and the opal-mining town of Coober Pedy. Since the Ghan operates twice weekly, passengers can do these, rejoin the train and complete their journey to Adelaide. Shorter excursions (known as whistle-stop tours) are available for passengers who want to stay on-board. gsr.com.au 5 THE CLARE VALLEY WINE REGION South Australia Often overshadowed by the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, the Clare Valley is South Australia’s prettiest wine district, with rolling landscapes, a good smattering of colonial history and, of course, some of the world’s best rieslings. Factor in some high-end country accommodation and Clare is an alluring package. Just two hours’ drive from Adelaide, it remains in touch with its farming roots. Things move at a slower pace here, allowing the opportunity for long chats with wine-makers and the chance to linger over a pleasant vineyard lunch. Best-known for its inty rieslings, the Clare is now producing excellent reds (shiraz and cabernet sauvignon) and whites made from gewurztraminer, viognier, pinot gris and chardonnay. MAP: STUART KOLAKOVIC

A big draw is the Riesling Trail, a 22-mile cycling and walking route linking some of the Clare’s most signiďŹ cant vineyards: Sevenhill, Mount Horrocks, Grosset, Knappstein and Tim Adams. Since the trail follows a disused railway line, gradients are gentle. The region’s premier accommodation is the boutique Thorn Park by 1 THE INDIAN OCEAN

East Timor, Papua New Guinea and Tasmania.

generation of admirers. Bells Beach is an iconic

the Vines, but other plentiful options include farm

surf break – and home to the annual Rip Curl Pro

cottages such as those at Skillogalee. The vineyard

DRIVE Western Australia

One of Orion’s most popular expeditions is

Launched with much fanfare

its 10-day voyage from Broome to Darwin (or

surďŹ ng tournament. Indeed, there are few

also happens to have the Clare Valley’s most

in September 2010, the

vice versa), exploring Australia’s vast and largely

places along this stretch of coast where you

revered winery restaurant. southaustralia.com

Indian Ocean Drive links the

pristine north-west coast. Tour highlights include

won’t spot a surfer or two in the water. 6 THE MARIA ISLAND WALK Tasmania

Western Australian capital of Perth with the

Montgomery Reef, the Mitchell Falls and the

The Great Ocean Road passes through the

northern outpost of Geraldton. OfďŹ cially, the new

astonishing Bungle Bungles mountain range.

coastal settlements of Lorne, Torquay and Apollo

Ian Johnstone, the founder

route begins at Yanchep, north of Perth, but given

The ship also makes a stop at Jaco Island in East

Bay, but also provides a chance to visit Great

of Tasmania’s Maria Island

that the total length of the drive is 266 miles, who

Timor, en route to Darwin, in Northern Territory.

Otway National Park – a huge area of ancient

Walk, must be struggling to

is going to quibble? The route, which showcases

Anyone interested in the harsh beauty of

forest, gullies, waterfalls and coastal reserves. The

ďŹ nd space on his mantelpiece.

some of Australia’s most rugged coastal scenery,

“the Top End� will enjoy the route – and unlike

park contains all manner of native species, such

can be completed over three days – but allow

the vessels of 200 years ago, the German-built

as koalas, wallabies, quolls, skinks, gliders and

remarkable eco-adventure in 2005, Maria Island

longer if you want to linger along the way for

MV Orion transports guests in ďŹ ve-star luxury.

even platypus. Allow four days to complete the

Walk has won just about every tourism award

a spot of snorkelling, scuba diving or ďŹ shing. Many

Each of the 53 staterooms and suites on board

entire drive, longer if you want to go surďŹ ng

in its class. The reason? Strict adherence to the

locals think nothing of completing the return leg

is equipped with internet connection, television,

or hiking along the way. greatoceanrd.org.au

principles of sustainable tourism, enthusiastic

from Geraldton to Perth in a single day, but you

refrigerator, separate living areas and marble

may want to overnight en route – or y back.

bathrooms. Shipboard amenities include

Highlights include the Pinnacles Desert, near

Since he launched this

guides and, ďŹ nally, the island itself – surely one of 4 THE GHAN Darwin to Adelaide

the most hauntingly beautiful places on earth.

a spa, sauna, whirlpool, masseuse, hairdresser

Once known as the Afghan

the town of Cervantes. It takes its name from

and boutique. MV Orion also carries Zodiac

Express, the Ghan is a

off the south-east corner of Tasmania, began its

a collection of impressive limestone structures,

inatable boats with outboard engines,

transcontinental passenger

life as a 19th-century gaol for political prisoners,

some of them almost 10ft high. Cervantes is also

plus kayaks and windsurfers for those of an

train linking the cities of Darwin

most of whom simply rowed to the mainland and

the rock lobster capital of Australia, so be sure

adventurous bent. orionexpeditions.com

and Adelaide – and therefore

escaped – or bought a passage back to England.

to sample one of these delicious crustaceans. Further north is Jurien Bay Marine Park, a popular

3 THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD Victoria

Maria (pronounced Mar-eye-ah) Island, located

traversing the harshest and most inhospitable

Since 1972, the island has been managed by

deserts on the planet. Named in honour of the

the National Parks and Wildlife Service, which

spot for snorkelling and, surprisingly, skydiving.

Consistently voted one of

Afghan camel-drivers who opened up Australia’s

maintains both the natural landscape and the

The three-day drive ends in Geraldton, a seaside

the world’s great drives,

“Red Centre� in the 19th century, the Ghan is

convict ruins in Darlington, the only settlement.

town with a colourful history and laid-back

Victoria’s Great Ocean Road

a modern air-conditioned train with three cabin

atmosphere. indian-ocean-drive.com

stretches from the regional

classes (Platinum, Gold and Red), plus airline-style

way to explore this Lilliputian world. Guests stay in

city of Geelong, just west of

seating for economy passengers. In Platinum,

a series of permanent eco-camps, offering great

Melbourne, to Warrnambool, close to the South

there are just 25 stylish cabins, each offering

food and local wine. With modest daily walking

Australia’s ďŹ rst national

Australian border. The 150-mile route was built

a generous living and sleeping area, an ensuite

targets, there is plenty of time for birdwatching,

highway was the ocean lapping

largely by returned soldiers between 1919 and

bathroom, plenty of storage space and large

swimming or optional side trips. Don’t miss the

its immense shoreline, so it is

1932 and is the world’s biggest war memorial.

viewing windows. Passengers have the use of

chance the scramble up Mount Maria for some

ďŹ tting that Orion Cruises has

Best-known for its association with the Twelve

a private dining car, plus the services of a steward

panoramic island views. mariaislandwalk.com

chosen to revive long-distance

Apostles – a series of dramatic limestone

who is permanently on call.

2 THE ORION CRUISE Broome to Darwin

coastal sea voyages. The shipping line operates

outcrops dating back 20 million years – the route

small-group cruises to many parts of Australia,

is increasingly seen as a destination in its own

completed in three days, it’s tempting to take

New Zealand and the PaciďŹ c. Destinations

right. The growing popularity of surďŹ ng ensures

longer. The train’s operator, Great Southern

include the Bay of Islands, the Kimberley,

that this historic drive is winning over a new

Rail, has developed a wide range of off-train

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The four-day Maria Island Walk is a wonderful

While the entire 1,850-mile journey can be

To find out why there’s nothing like an Australian journey, visit Australia.com

Australia

S outh Australia

From Outback to Ocean, enjoy the very best that it has to offer, as only Bridge & Wickers know how.

Relax in style at Arkaba Station, surrounded by the awesome scenery of the Flinders Ranges

Dine in award-winning style at “Appellation” whilst staying at The Louise, among the lush vineyards of the Barossa Valley

Enjoy spectacular sea views, wilderness and wildlife from the comfort of Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island

F

rom the stunning Flinders Ranges of its Outback, to the world renowned wineries of the Barossa Valley and the spectacular wildlife of Kangaroo Island, South Australia has it all, within easy reach of its gateway city Adelaide. With Bridge & Wickers, Tourism Australia’s ‘Travel Company of the Year’, you can experience South Australia in style as our bespoke 8 day itinerary for Ultratravel readers shows. From Adelaide you’ll head to the Barossa Valley, one of Australia’s best known wine regions for a two night stay at The Louise, a boutique hotel resembling a colonial homestead. With expansive views across thousands of acres of vineyards, it’s the perfect base from which to visit worldfamous vineyards like Yalumba, Seppelts, and Penfolds. Lush vineyards give way to the rugged red landscapes of Australia’s Outback as you drive to

“Australia offers an amazing variety of experiences - and there’s no better way to get a flavour of them all than a visit to South Australia ”

The Flinders Ranges for a two night stay at Arkaba, an authentic sheep station dating from 1851 and a classic Flinders homestead building, with thick stone walls and deep shady verandas. Explore Wilpena Pound, a huge natural amphitheatre, discover fossils in the ancient sea beds at Brachina Gorge, or study Aboriginal art at Arkaroo Rock.

Barossa Valley Vineyards

two nights in luxurious Southern Ocean Lodge and enjoy the dramatic coastal scenery, pristine beaches, sea lions, birdlife and of course Kangaroos and Koalas. Flinders Chase National Park is another highlight where the spectacular Remarkable Rocks and Admirals Arch reveal the amazing wild forces of nature.

Meeting the locals on Kangaroo Island

Drive back to Adelaide for an overnight stay at the five star Intercontinental in the heart of the city before taking the short flight to Kangaroo Island, one of the best places to see Australian native animals in their natural habitat. Spend

Return to Adelaide with a wealth of memories of your authentic Australian experiences. From £3165 per person based on two sharing (Flights from the UK not Included)

This is just one of the many itineraries we have created in South Australia. For a brochure, or to discuss your own bespoke itinerary, call one of our specialist consultants or visit our website.

The Flinders Ranges

020 7483 6555 bridgeandwickers.co.uk

B R I DG E & W I C K E R S travel with experience

South Australia

Southern comfort The sundowner deck at Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island, built on a dramatic escarpment overlooking the surf. Inset: food as art at Appellation restaurant; a resident kangaroo; and the author in relaxed mood

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MAKING TRACKS DOWN UNDER

When broadcaster Simon Bates (inset) did a series of live radio shows from Adelaide, the Barossa and beyond, he discovered a laid-back world of fine wine, good food and decent values where even the wildlife seemed civilised

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I

t is 30 years since I first visited Australia, so you could say we have a long-standing relationship. In fact, everything I know about radio I learned on that vast continent — and to a lesser extent in New Zealand, where I also worked for a while. I like the can-do approach Down Under and the general lack of stuffiness. I still hate anyone calling me “Sir�, and that is a legacy of my time working in Sydney. Australians are doers not talkers. These days my daughter lives in Melbourne and has a marvellous time there. When she finishes work, she goes kayaking on the ocean near her home. It couldn’t be more of a contrast with London. So when it was suggested that I spend a week doing a series of live shows from Adelaide, the Barossa Valley, Kangaroo Island and the Flinders Ranges, my only question was: “When do we leave?� Aussies are naturally hospitable, so I knew my producer and I would be well looked after, but I had no idea how different South Australia is from Sydney and New South Wales — the only part of the country I know well. To paraphrase one of my hosts, South Australia is a microcosm of all the great things Australia has to offer — wine, wild landscape, stunning beaches, exotic animals and endless sunshine — all within a single destination. One of our first appointments in Adelaide was at the fabulous Central Market. The variety of fresh produce available is staggering. You’ll find everything from freshly pressed olive oil to traditional smoked meats, sourdough bread and farmhouse cheeses. I love the fact that it’s a living, breathing market with a history, not just a tourist spot. People have been selling produce here for 142 years. Our guide was local foodie Mark Gleeson, a former chef who conducts walking tours of the market and has his own pastry stall there. His early-morning tours are a great way to absorb some of the culinary history of South Australia. “It’s all about diversity and getting to know the stories of the people who work here,� Gleeson said. “I like to show people what the market is really about.� After that, we were off to the Adelaide Oval where some great contests have taken place between England and Australia over the years. Since I’m a keen cricket fan, this is holy ground to me. It’s the place where, during the infamous Bodyline series of the 1930s, the English team received a rather hostile reception from the home crowd, according to an Aussie friend of mine. It was here, too, that Sir Donald Bradman notched up some of his most memorable innings. Beneath the stands, there is a museum dedicated to Adelaide’s most famous (adopted) son, housing his collection of cricket memorabilia. From Adelaide we drove — or, more correctly, were driven — north to the Barossa Valley, Australia’s most famous wine-growing district and its most productive: South Australia accounts for half of the country’s entire wine production, some 700,000 litres. Luckily, a few litres have made it into the magnificent walk-in wine cellar at The Louise, the immaculate country house hotel in Marananga where we spent the night. The chef’s tasting menu at Appellation, its award-winning restaurant, provided an introduction to the Barossa’s superb riesling, chardonnay, grenache, cabernet and shiraz varieties. Executive chef Mark McNamara is passionate about what he calls indigenous “Barossan� cuisine and his dishes showcase beautiful local produce, from ham cured on the

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Sweetness and light Clockwise, from top left: checking the bouquet and acidity of a riesling in a Barossa Valley vineyard; horse-riding at a cattle station nea a

premises to Hutton Vale lamb and delicate prawns from the Spencer Gulf. The Barossa’s first European settlers came mostly from Eastern Germany and England, and a strong Cornish legacy is evident in the agriculture. “Apart from grapes, we grow Australia’s best carrots and poultry,� McNamara said, “and our yabbies [freshwater crayfish] and game birds are outstanding.� A “Ten Pound Pom� (or post-War migrant) whose parents came out from London in the 1950s, he is a good example of the hard work, enterprise and passion that has shaped the Barossa. Food, wine and cricket aside, what makes South Australia special? Sitting there surrounded by vines and listening to Mark McNamara, I was beginning to get the picture. First, South Australians have managed to hold on to the old values; they still know how to make great wine and produce perfect prosciutto. Second, the region’s cities are small enough to encourage civilised behaviour. In Adelaide, I walked the streets at rush hour and didn’t have to keep my head down or look at anyone and say, “Yes, do you have a problem?� The weather has a mellowing effect, too. It was early spring when I went, but still sunny and pleasantly warm. I’m convinced that clear blue skies lift one’s spirits — that, and breathing good country air. Early one morning, we piled into a big white Toyota 4WD for Breakfast with the Kangaroos — one of The Louise’s most popular excursions. I was sceptical that any of these fine-looking Eastern Grey kangaroos would turn up to see a couple of Pommie broadcasters, but to my surprise the national park was like a Trafalgar Square for marsupials. They were everywhere – and because they have never been hunted, you can get very close. We even saw a young female carrying a joey in her pouch. Call me an old softie, but it made my day, as did the poached pears and handmade Bircher muesli we had for breakfast. For our broadcast that day, we headed to Peter

Lehmann Wines in Tanunda, in the heart of the Barossa. Less well known than Jacob’s Creek, Penfolds and Wolf Blass, it is nevertheless a respected winery, producing beautifully structured reds (shiraz, grenache and merlot) and a range of contemporary whites and rosÊs. We set up our broadcasting deck on the lawns beneath the towering gum trees, and were even provided with a kookaburra which occupied a branch above my head. We couldn’t get a squeak out of him — let alone a full-throated song. Over the next four hours, I chatted to some of the region’s best grape growers, winemakers and viticulturalists — try saying that after a few glasses of shiraz. These blokes are like the horse-breeders I know in England, with the same passion and single-mindedness. They are not just making a product, but living the life they want to lead, and money is only part of the equation. I also noticed how multi-talented everybody was. Most people I met had a couple of jobs and spent their spare time fishing, yachting, cycling or restoring classic cars. After a blissful day among the vines, we were whisked back to Adelaide for our early-morning flight to Kangaroo Island, the next major destination on our whirlwind journey. Just 30 minutes by air from the mainland, Kangaroo Island (or KI) is like a separate world, with an independent spirit, lots of untamed wilderness and an abundance of wildlife. Visitors come from all over the world to see the sea lions, kangaroos and koalas for which the island is famous. My favourite was a spiky little creature called an echidna. When approached, it buries its head in the sand to avoid eye contact. Our guide on the island was Craig Wickham who runs a tour company called Exceptional Kangaroo Island. He has lived on KI for 40 years — almost long enough to be considered a local – and he told me a lovely story about the English explorer Matthew Flinders who first came

5 OTHER DESTINATIONS FOR WINE AND WILDLIFE MARGARET RIVER, WESTERN AUSTRALIA

dog, unique to this island 400

“See more, taste more, do

a 20-minute drive from Hobart,

more� is the mantra of

the Coal Valley is Tasmania’s

Bushtucker River and Winery

fastest-growing wine region.

Tours, whose itineraries range

As well as pinot noirs, it

from the adventurous

produces cool-climate wines

(canoeing, caving and river

including chardonnays,

swimming) to the ethnological

rieslings and sauvignons

(Aboriginal herbalism) and the

blancs. The Coal River Valley

quirkily hedonistic. On a canoe

Wine Route makes an ideal

safari, guests can paddle past

half- or full-day tour, with

kangaroo habitats then stop, if

tastings and lunch at a

conscience allows, for a lunch

vineyard restaurant. Bonorong

of emu with nut pesto

Wildlife Sanctuary is the place

followed by wild turkey with

to see Tasmanian Devils, plus

rosella chutney. For the more

emus, wombats, echidnas and

sedate, there are coach tours

other injured and orphaned

into the wine regions (Swan

animals. puretasmania.com.au

Valley, Ferguson Valley,

and bonorong.com.au

miles south of Melbourne. Just

Margaret River) and visits to factories and artisan cheese-

HUNTER VALLEY, NEW SOUTH WALES

makers, all with tastings.

Stock up on the wines of the

bushtuckertours.com

region (notably its semillons,

boutique breweries, chocolate

described by Jancis Robinson

a William Creek, in the Flinders Ranges; and the panoramic view from The Great Room at Southern Ocean Lodge, dramatically located on Kangaroo Island ar

here in 1798. “He and his crew had been at sea for several months and hadn’t any fresh tucker,� said Wickham, “so the kangaroos were a welcome change in diet. Flinders wrote in his ship’s log: ‘In gratitude for such a seasonable supply I name this southern land Kangaroo Island’. He added that there had been enough meat to feed not only the officers but also the men!� The island’s isolation (increasingly rare in the modern world) and its lack of predators have turned it into a kind of Noah’s ark for native species. We stopped for morning coffee at Bales Beach, a magnificent stretch of white sand flanked by dunes, and there wasn’t another person in sight. Walking along the shoreline for an hour, with just the sound of the surf in my ears, was my idea of heaven. Next stop was Southern Ocean Lodge, a stunning property built on a dramatic escarpment overlooking the surf, where we had a delicious lunch of grilled whiting (locally caught of course) and a glass of KI chardonnay. There are 28 vineyards on the island, as well as oyster and lobster fisheries, cheese-makers, honey producers and farmers growing delicious “saltbush� lamb – low in fat and high in vitamin E, because the animals have grazed on a nutritious diet of desert and seashore plants. Despite its tiny population (around 4,500), KI also supports a thriving artists’ colony; after all, somewhere as wild and beautiful as this is bound to ignite the creative imagination. Sadly, our stay on the island was short-lived because an entirely different kind of wilderness beckoned on the mainland. The final leg of our odyssey took us to Parachilna, a one-horse town deep in the South Australian Outback. Our pilot, Ryan, had flown down from Adelaide to take us north. When we landed on the town’s dirt strip, there was no one around to greet us. Then we spotted our rental vehicle parked next to a tin shed. Inside was

a hand-written note. “Here’s the ute, drop off the paperwork when you’ve got time,� it read. Somehow I knew I was going to like this place. Horses are my great passion, so I was delighted to have the chance to go for a trot in the middle of the Outback. My horse was fitted with a stockman’s saddle, which was extremely comfortable — the equestrian equivalent of a Rolls-Royce. Best of all, it was almost impossible to fall out of – an important consideration when you are an Englishman trying to impress the locals. That night, we would be sleeping at the legendary Prairie Hotel in Parachilna, renowned for its “feral feasts� of wild kangaroo, emu, goat and other bush meats. It seemed that my adventure was only just beginning.

wine world�), then relax on a boat trip down the Hawkesbury River – abundant with green and golden bell frogs, blue-tongue skinks (a type of lizard), pelicans, parrots, kookaburras, black DARWIN, NORTHERN TERRITORY

swans, white-breasted sea

In the balmy, tropical “Top

of fish, all within a 45-minute

End� of Australia, get a taste

drive of Sydney. The Hunter

for Asian-Pacific cuisine at

Valley has a well-developed

Darwin’s Mindil Beach Sunset

programme of wine tours and

Markets, held every Thursday

cellar-door tastings, with the

and Sunday evening during

chance to eat well at some

the dry season (May to

excellent vineyard restaurants.

October). The flavours of

winecountry.com.au and

Japan, Thailand, Timor,

hawkesburyriver.org.au

eagles and dozens of species

Indonesia, the Philippines, Vietnam, Malaysia and Cambodia will be set up nicely by a chilled riesling, while beer is the natural partner to more traditional options (chips and burgers). From Darwin, it is a three-hour drive to Kakadu National Park with its haunting

THE DETAILS

YARRA VALLEY, VICTORIA

Aboriginal culture and

Close to Melbourne, stop off at

The Louise (00 618 8562 2722, thelouise.com.au). Secluded culinary

opportunities to see buffalo,

Anglesea Golf Course to play

retreat in the heart of the Barossa wine region. Two-night packages

crocodiles and more than 290

a round among the kangaroos

from A$995 (ÂŁ617) for two, including breakfast and a five-course

species of bird. mindil.com.au

before heading to De Bortoli’s,

chef’s tasting menu dinner for two at Appellation restaurant.

and kakadu.com.au

Domaine Chandon and the

Peter Lehmann Wines (00 618 8565 9500, peterlehmannwines.

other wineries of the Yarra

com). Respected Barossa winery; tastings from A$10 (about ÂŁ6.20).

Valley. The Anglesea club has

Southern Ocean Lodge (00 618 8559 7347, southernoceanlodge.

a world-renowned 18-hole

com.au). Sophisticated clifftop sanctuary on rugged stretch of

course and a bistro open for

Kangaroo Island coast. Suites from A$990 (ÂŁ614) per night, based on

lunch and dinner. Its lush

two sharing, including all dining, “open� bar and guided tours.

fairways are home to a

Exceptional Kangaroo Island (00 618 8553 9119,

resident population of Eastern

exceptionalkangarooisland.com). “Good wine, good food and wildlife

Grey kangaroos. The Yarra

in the wild�, on a range of 4WD tours.

Valley’s progressive young

Prairie Hotel (00 618 8648 4844, prairiehotel.com.au). Historic hotel

COAL VALLEY, TASMANIA

winemakers have harnessed

in the Outback, famous for its “native Australian� cuisine and offering

On Tassie, enjoy first-class

the diversity of the terroir to

outings on horseback. Doubles from A$175 (ÂŁ109) per night, b&b.

pinot noirs, then set off in

create elegant pinot noirs,

search of endangered

chardonnays and sparkling

Tasmanian Devils: carnivorous

wines. visityarravalley.com.au

marsupials the size of a small

and angleseagolfclub.com.au

To find out more about why there’s nothing like wine and wildlife in Australia, visit Australia.com/southaustralia

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ALICE HEALEY

MY HORSE WAS FITTED WITH A STOCKMAN’S SADDLE, AS COMFORTABLE AS A ROLLS-ROYCE

as “Australia’s great gift to the

There’s nothing like a feast for the senses.

visit: australia.com

The smell of crisp, desert air. The taste o f fresh, local produce and quality wine. Silence but for the chorus of insects and the occasional belly laugh from our newfound friends. Then to top it all off, Uluru, the world’s most stunning backdrop, draped in a blanket of the outback’s finest stars. Believe wh at they say, this place is truly magical. It’s funny how quickly you lose track of time out here too. Forget your watch - days and nights are mea sured in sunrises and sunsets. You can spend hours listening to local guides tell stories that make you never want to leave. Which explains why so many of the people we’ve met here, never have. Hopefully next time we’re out here, we’ ll see you for a drink too.

Western Australia

FALLING FOR THE WILD WIDEWEST Australia’s largest state makes a superb holiday destination year-round, with 6,000 miles of pristine beaches, lush vineyards in the south, tropical towns in the north, spectacular Outback landscapes in between – and laid-back Perth, with a flight time from London that is four hours shorter than the trip to Sydney. Frequent visitor Louis de Bernières (inset) even found poignant inspiration there for his book Red Dog LCKI8KI8M<C

I SWAM IN A TROPICAL RAIN SHOWER‌ THE LOVELIEST THING I HAVE EVER SEEN

Fresh perspective One of the permanent pools of the Kimberley Waterways, a network of rivers, gorges and small lakes that irrigate the Kimberley – a region of Western Australia three times the size of England PHOTOGRAPH BY FRANCES ANDRIJICH

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ustralians often say that if Western Australians ever got the chance to vote for it, they would vote for independence. They perceive themselves as different, and are so perceived in return. It is hard for an outsider to see quite why. One person told me it is because WA is much more British than the other Australian states, although this is not something that would have occurred to me. The whole continent seems liberally infested with Brits. One theme does keep cropping up, though. Everybody in Perth says, “We’re so cut off!â€? It is true that it takes hours to drive to any other major city – 30 hours to Adelaide and almost two days to Sydney, although it is very easy to y to both domestically – and for European visitors it is certainly a peculiar feeling to be crossing time zones when you haven’t even left the country. But the people in Perth do not seem to realise that their city is itself a great cultural centre, and so they always suspect that all the interesting and important things are happening elsewhere. Craig Ogden, the great classical guitarist from Perth, found that he couldn’t have the career he wanted if he stayed there, but it was not the fault of WA. It was a problem caused by being in a vast country with very few cities, and all a great distance from each other. Being cut off is relative, though. It’s very easy to get to Bali from WA, and I sympathise much more with the Greek community in New Zealand, whose constant refrain is, “It’s so far!â€? – meaning far from everything, Greece in particular. I have been to WA several times now, and this has come about because about a dozen years ago I accepted an invitation to go to the Perth Festival. I was awed by how lovely it was in Perth and Fremantle. Some locals swim for a mile or more along Cottesloe Beach, just outside Perth, before they go to work, and the quality of the seafood is enough to make any visitor salivate in retrospect. You don’t forget your ďŹ rst barramundi, the Australian seabass always described as “elusiveâ€? even though restaurants don’t seem to be short of them. Fremantle is the arty area, where you will ďŹ nd hopeful buskers and genuine Italians making genuine majolica. One of the conditions for going to the Perth Festival was that I should go up north to the Pilbara to do the ďŹ rst ever literary event in the mining town of Karratha, and then on up to Broome. Karratha and its twin sister, the company town of Dampier, have the perfect climate in the “winterâ€? but are hot enough to make ceramics without a kiln in the summer. They are still mining towns but they are prosperous, fully functioning and civilised, no longer the rough-and-ready, almost exclusively male encampments of trailers that they were 50 years ago. It was whilst in Karratha that I found a statue of Red Dog – the locally famous cattle dog who, following the death of his master, roamed the region looking for him – and was inspired to write the eponymous book [now made into a ďŹ lm, due to be released in Britain in 2012]. The hotel manager had leant me his ute (Australian English for a utility vehicle), and I took the opportunity to explore locally, but I did that at far greater length and depth when I came back to research and write the book. I had made friends with a journalist, and went initially not north from Perth to the Pilbara, but south to Margaret River, a relatively unpopulated area that could give New South Wales a good run for its money in a competition to name the original Garden of Eden. My journalist had a tiny family house there, whose water came from a huge cistern in the garden that collected rain, and we spent happy times ďŹ shing off the rocks and supping the stupendously ďŹ ne local wine that is very hard to ďŹ nd anywhere else, presumably because it is not produced in very great quantities. The principal town in the paradise of Margaret

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River is Albany, but I confess we never got to it because we were having too much fun where we were. My journalist talked darkly of it, as if it were a sinister and backward place. On the way back to Perth, we encountered a town called Bunbury, which people consider not a proper place at all because it is more on the way to elsewhere than anything distinct in itself. It was the subject of a hilarious novel by James Ricks, Eleven Months in Bunbury, in which workers in a timbermill looked forward to anyone losing a limb in the machinery, because then they would be given the rest of the day off. And after not much more than an hour in Bunbury, it was back to Perth and then up north again to the Pilbara, where we did some proper exploring. There is a ghost town, Cossack, which thrived during the Pilbara gold rush of the late 19th century and once had a horse-drawn tram system. The buildings are in perfect condition but the only people you ďŹ nd there now are a few Aboriginals quietly ďŹ shing. Then there is Roebourne, another gold-rush town, with now a mainly Aboriginal population which is far less depressed than when I ďŹ rst saw it. Apart from its old prison, for many years an attraction (the town once had ďŹ ve times the average ratio of police to locals), Roebourne has an important co-operative where Aboriginals produce high quality paintings, glass and weaving. One of the artists is ambidextrous and, mesmerisingly, paints with both hands at once. I bought two pictures, and wish I had bought more. Not far away is a small community that in many respects looks like part of a scrapyard, yet it has a ourishing nursery in which the workers cultivate garden plants that thrive even in the infernos that pass for backyards and gardens in the area. These towns fell into decay because of the construction of Port Hedland, a deep natural harbour from where iron ore is shipped, and about which I remember very little because, when I visited it, I was looking for ďŹ shing tackle and did not take a sufďŹ ciently close interest in anything else. However, it is impossible to forget Point Samson, a tiny ďŹ shing hamlet near Karratha whose beach is strewn with shells, and which is a place of pilgrimage for foodies. Among the shrines are TaTa’s Restaurant, locally famous for its seafood, and a large ďŹ sh and chip shop where you can get a truly astonishing variety of perfectly cooked ďŹ sh (including the elusive barramundi) and eat it on a balcony overlooking the sea. The whole area tends to look like an environmental disaster, until you realise that the heaps of red rock everywhere are completely natural and not the result of careless mining. There are hundreds of miles of beach where you don’t have to wear a costume because there is no-one to see you anyway, and there are little pockets of Arcadia, such as Pretty Pool, outside Port Hedland, an oasis of beautiful trees and cool clear water. On my ďŹ rst trip I went further north, to Broome, which is distinctly tropical. It was originally a pearl-ďŹ shing town. The local council was painting in parking markings for the ďŹ rst time, and people were morosely complaining that it was the beginning of the end of their hereditary freedoms. I was befriended by a man who called himself “Bring ‘Em Back Alive Toursâ€?. We went ďŹ shing in what he swore was a crocodile swamp, and we gleefully ate our entire catch when we got home, a whole bucketful. In Broome, too, I swam in a tropical rain shower on Cable Beach. The drops, as big as golf balls, raised beautiful plumes of water as they struck the sea. There is an awful lot I still have to experience in Western Australia, but those plumes of water, rising up before my eyes and gently falling back, are just about the loveliest thing I have ever seen. On page 30, other destinations in Australia to visit any time of year

IVON BARTHOLOMEW; JAMES FISHER; PHOTOLIBRARY

A

Dream time Clockwise, from top left: seafood, at its best in Broome and Karratha; camel trekking on Mount Anderson, in the West Kimberley; canoes on the Margaret River; an Aboriginal community on the Dampier Peninsula, north of Broome; and Aboriginal dot art

THE DETAILS Just outside Perth, and a 15-minute drive from the port of Fremantle, the 13-room Cottesloe Beach Hotel (00 618 9383 1100, cottesloebeachhotel.com.au) stands directly on the beach. Doubles from A$240 (£150). In Margaret River, the Empire Retreat (00 618 9755 2065, empireretreat.com) is a stone- and wood-built farmhouse converted into an 11-room boutique hotel and spa, set in 250 acres of wineland. Rooms from A$260 (£161). Near Kalgarra, in Point Samson, Point Samson Resort (00 618 9187 1052, pointsamson.com), home of TaTa’s Restaurant, renowned for its seafood, has rooms from A$330 (£205). In Broome, the Cable Beach Club (00 618 9192 0400, cablebeachclub. com), with a large swimming pool and spa, has rooms from A$313 (£195).

To find out more about why there is nothing like Louis de Bernières’ Australia, visit Australia.com/westernaustralia

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A PLAN FOR ALL SEASONS

PHOTOLIBRARY

Don’t be bound by convention when visiting Australia – go any time and find riches. Jolyon Attwooll gives advice

A

s the poet Dorothea

reliable snow cover, while Falls Creek

KAKADU NATIONAL PARK

again and water birds spread their

and the beautiful 11-mile circuit around

Mackellar put it, in words

(Victoria again) has a good choice of

According to the Bininj/Mungguy

wings. Visitors can take in this

Lake St Clair, Tasmania’s deepest

familiar to most Antip-

runs for proficient skiers. In New South

people, there are six identifiable

ever-evolving landscape by air, up close

natural freshwater lake. Otherwise,

odean schoolchildren,

Wales, the Snowy Mountains live up to

seasons in Kakadu National Park in the

on a bush walk, or on a river cruise.

consider a visit to Freycinet National

Australia is “a land of sweeping plains,

their name, from the snowboard-

Northern Territory – and they should

Of ragged mountain ranges, Of

friendly Perisher resort and the long

know, having lived in the region for

TASMANIA

scramble across rock pools and and

droughts and flooding rains�. Taken

downhills of Thredbo to the cosy village

tens of thousands of years before the

It seems counter-intuitive to go to

roam the pink-hued granite of the

from “My Country�, Mackellar’s

atmosphere of Charlotte Pass.

arrival of Europeans. Diverse species of

Australia’s most southerly outpost in

Hazards mountain range.

plants and animals live here, from

winter. The island’s rugged landscapes

best-known and best-loved poem, the

Park, where you can skirt the coastline,

lines hint at the vastness of a nation

THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

wading birds to one fifth of the

(including the magnificent curve of

THE CITIES

stretching from the tropical north to its

This remarkable World Heritage Area,

country’s mammals, some of which are

Wineglass Bay, on the east coast, and

Brisbane is constantly balmy, and the

temperate southern half below the

the longest stretch of coral reef on the

found nowhere else in the world. The

the crags of Cradle Mountain) are

deep-blue skies of Sydney are not just

Tropic of Capricorn. Visitors to the

planet, has a lingering season. For

landscape varies from soaring

popular with bushwalkers, cyclists,

a feature of the summer months:

landscapes that inspired Mackellar’s

divers looking to immerse themselves

sandstone escarpments and vast open

rafters and kayakers during the

temperatures can rise well above 20

verse often settle into something of

in the underwater world, visibility is at

plains to monsoon forests, savannah

warmer months, but they hold a

degrees in winter, when visitors have

a rhythm, heading to the north in the

its best during the dry season, from

woodlands and tidal flats – and the

different kind of appeal in winter. The

the harbour views, galleries, museums

dry season (the northern hemisphere’s

around April to October. However, the

way the seasonal weather plays upon

days at this time of year are bright,

and hiking trails (including the Spit to

summer), and south during the

warm, sunny days don’t suddenly

these habitats is extraordinary. First

crisp and clear, and walkers can roam

Manly walk, on the north shore) much

European winter. Yet, as the following

vanish outside these times, and nor do

come the waterfalls and lightning of

without encountering any crowds

more to themselves. On the west

suggestions show, Mackellar’s “wilful,

the 1,500-plus species of fish that live

the monsoon season (January to

before curling up in front of the fire in

coast, Perth’s Mediterranean climate

lavish land� is not so simple: there are

on the Great Barrier Reef – meaning

March), when spear grass grows taller

one of the state’s charming boutique

means the sun rarely stops shining on

many places in Australia that are quite

that, whatever the month, there is no

than a man; then the harvest time,

hotels or lodges. Some places may be

the world’s most isolated city, making

extraordinary whatever the season.

reason not to go. Some might find the

when floodwaters recede, plants bear

out of bounds – the Overland Track,

its beaches and laid-back atmosphere

humid conditions a little too sticky

fruit and all manner of creatures

perhaps the best known of Tasmania’s

a draw at most times of year. When the

THE SOUTHERN SKI SLOPES

during the wet season (November to

shelter their young. Next comes the

trails, is not recommended in winter –

cold does briefly set in (June to

For outsiders weaned on the classic

March) but dipping below the surface

cool(ish) weather, when water lilies

but many shorter routes are still

August), a vibrant Winter Arts Season

Australian image of beach bums and

during a period of monsoonal calm has

carpet the wetlands, followed by the

accessible, including the 20-minute

(perthwinterarts.com.au) kicks off to

surf, the mountain ranges of Victoria

its own appeal – and there can still be

early dry season when creeks and

Enchanted Walk, which leads visitors

warm the cockles. Then there is

and New South Wales in winter come

days of crystal-clear visibility at this

flood plains become arid. In our

through a rainforest, often under

compact, elegant Adelaide, which also

as a surprise. When snow falls – usually

time of year too. (See page 36 for

autumn (August and September) come

a layer of seasonal frost; Dove Lake,

prides itself on the arts; the city’s Art

from June to August – well-developed

Mark Chipperfield’s account of a visit

the dry months, and finally the pre-

beneath Cradle Mountain, which can

Gallery of South Australia was home to

resorts come alive with skiers and

to the Reef and Cape Tribulation).

monsoon weather, when streams run

be circumnavigated in an hour or two;

a collection from the Saatchi Gallery

snowboarders, often in easily accessible areas. Mount Buller is one such place, just over three hours’ drive from the sophisticated charms of Melbourne. Attracting bushwalkers, horse-riders and mountain bikers at other times of year, Buller is the largest

THE WARM, SUNNY DAYS DON’T SUDDENLY VANISH, AND NOR DO THE 1,500 SPECIES OF REEF FISH

of Victoria’s ski resorts, with runs that

this autumn. Melbourne’s cultural scene – perhaps the most dynamic in Australia – arguably comes into its own in winter. Not only are there its snug laneways to explore but, as the Australian Rules Football season reaches a climax, the city’s unique sporting madness reaches fever pitch.

are ideal for intermediate skiers and popular with day-trippers. Mount Hotham, also in Victoria but a little further from the city, is known for its spectacular terrain and generally

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Life on Oz Sweetlips on the Great Barrier Reef (right). Top, left to right: the view from Lizard Island, one of the Luxury Lodges of Australia, on the Reef; a lotus lily in Kakadu National Park; and Huski apartments in Falls Creek ski resort, Victoria

To find out more about why there’s nothing like Australia in all seasons, visit Australia.com

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Northern Territory

INTO THE RED CENTRE

There is nothing like the heart of Australia: spectacular Uluru is an essential part of any itinerary, and Mark Chipperfield recommends taking four or five days, starting in Alice Springs, then exploring the gorges of the MacDonnell Ranges and the dramatic rock formations of Kings Canyon and Kata Tjuta

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Weird and wonderful A flight over extraordinary Uluru, most memorable at dawn or dusk

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4CORNERS; PHOTOLIBRARY

O

nce little more than a dusty telegraph station marking the geographic centre of Australia, Alice Springs is today a true icon of the Outback. Nowhere else in Northern Territory’s “Red Centreâ€? rivals it for its rough-hewn frontier atmosphere, or can rustle up the colourful Crocodile Dundee types you will encounter here. Events such as the annual Henley-onTodd Regatta — the world’s only mock regatta involving semi-naked men carrying “boatsâ€? at speed along a dried riverbed — have created a stereotype of sun-crazed eccentricity that Alice fully deserves. Australia’s most famous natural wonder lies 270 miles away, however, in the form of Uluru – Ayers Rock. Many of the 400,000 visitors who come to see this monumental landmark and World Heritage site each year rush in and out of Ayers Rock airport and bypass Alice Springs. In doing so, they miss a uniquely Australian experience. Originally the ancient meeting place of several desert tribes, Alice Springs has become a major centre for traditional Aboriginal art, including exquisite dot paintings and intricate woven baskets. Local galleries source artwork directly from the region’s remotest communities, while the town’s 19th-century history is visible in the many local restaurants serving “bush tuckerâ€?. Visitors can get to sample damper (bread), smoked emu, crumbed crocodile, and camel sausage. And with its excellent transport connections from the rest of Australia, Alice Springs makes an obvious jumping-off spot for exploring the area. Although Uluru is just a four-hour drive away by the most direct route, along the Stuart Highway, taking a detour pays dividends. To make the most of the area’s spectacular rock formations, icy waterholes and fascinating ora and fauna, it makes sense to go via the magniďŹ cent gorges of the West MacDonnell Ranges. Take the Luritja Road, and devote two or three days to the journey and then two nights at Uluru, taking time out for walks, camping and exploring en route. Ideally, one should travel in a 4WD rather than a standard saloon, to allow the option of taking the occasional dirt road. (As this is a wilderness area, it is of course important to remember to refuel whenever possible and to carry plenty of water and food supplies.) The ďŹ rst recommended stopover, an hour’s drive from Alice, is the Glen Helen resort, a homestead in the West MacDonnells with motel rooms and a campsite, open ďŹ res in cold weather, a pool for hot weather, and live music most evenings. Overlooking the Glen Helen Gorge, it has the 142-mile Larapinta Trail – one of Australia’s great long-distance walks – on its doorstep. Other attractions in the area include Simpson’s Gap, one of the scenic waterholes that have formed between the eroded rocks of the towering cliffs here, where black-footed rock wallabies appear at dusk and dawn on the cliff ledges; Standley Chasm, a gorge cut spectacularly through the vivid quartzite of the Chewings Range; the deep, clear, always-icy waters of shady Ellery Big Hole, whose picturesque geology and bird life has inspired many artists; and another peaceful spot for a swim below soaring cliffs, Ormiston Gorge. Helicopter ights and 4WD tours can be arranged and are highly recommended. While Central Australia has no shortage of comfortable accommodation, there is nothing quite like sleeping under the stars. For the ultimate Outback experience, one should hire a swag (a traditional bushman’s canvas-covered sleeping bag) and sleep in the red dirt itself. There are plenty of good campsites in the area,

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Photographed, ogled and oohed over, Uluru – until 1985 including the cheerful Ormiston Gorge Camping Ground known as Ayers Rock, so named by the British explorer (in the desert, but with hot showers and gas barbecues) William Gosse in 1873 – is endlessly fascinating. Rising and the campsite at the Glen Helen resort, which has the 1,140ft from the desert, the great monolith is the subject lovely Glen Helen Gorge swimming hole nearby. of endless conjecture. The Aboriginal township of Hermannsburg lies within Beautiful and intimidating in equal measure, its easy reach of Glen Helen, and it is well worth stopping colour shifts from bright ochre to blood-red, orange and here to visit the house of one of Australia’s greatest ominous charcoal. Dawn and sunset are the best times artists, Albert Namatjira (1902—59), also a pioneer to view it — but one should “rug upâ€?, as Australians say, for Aboriginal rights. Although his European-style against the desert chill. How visitors experience the rock watercolours of Outback landscapes now seem rather depends largely on their ďŹ tness, time constraints and old-fashioned, painted in a manner that white Australians budget. There is one absolute prohibition, however, could recognise, Namatjira did much to break down the and that is climbing on to the rock face, which the hostility between white and black Australians. He also Anangu – to whom Uluru is, of course, paved the way for the local Papunya sacred – expressly forbid. Tula art movement in the 1970s, whose Although helicopter, motorcycle and works portraying Dreamtime creation camel tours are available, the simplest stories now hang in galleries around and possibly best way to appreciate the the world. Rock is by foot. Walking around the From Hermannsburg it is less base — the complete circuit is just over than an hour’s drive to the next six miles — reveals that Uluru is far more recommended spot for an overnight complex than it might ďŹ rst appear, dotted stop. Watarrka National Park with caves, ďŹ ssures and waterfalls. One houses Kings Canyon, a vast natural can do this alone, but the local Anangu amphitheatre of towering red guides also conduct walks around sandstone walls almost 1,000ft high, the Rock. To hear Dreamtime stories with lush pockets of vegetation and recounted by one of the traditional dramatic gullies. Its centrepiece is the owners of Uluru, and to learn about Garden of Eden – a natural waterhole the local ora and fauna (including surrounded by cycads, the spiky palms kangaroos, possums, wallabies and capable of living for 1,000 years. dingos) is a rare privilege. A good base from which to explore For an aerial view, a helicopter this beauty is Kings Canyon Wilderness trip or scenic ight over Uluru is an Lodge, located in a remote and excellent way to appreciate the haunting secluded part of the Kings Canyon landscape and the vast sheer emptiness cattle and camel station. It has surrounding the Rock. 10 air-conditioned tented cabins in By night, on the other hand, the most the shade of desert oaks, and offers popular experience is The Sounds of gourmet “outback mealsâ€? as well as Silence, a swish open-air dinner served a stunning desert location. The lodge can arrange various activities, from Another world Indigenous artists have on linen-draped tables as the sun sinks quad-bike rides and camel treks (riding always produced work of subtle beauty over the dramatic rockscape. Besides a generous barbecue of local delicacies on descendants of the beasts that such as kangaroo and crocodile, the evening includes helped immigrant pioneers open up central Australia) to a talk by an expert stargazer. Those with a real passion helicopter ights. for astronomy, however, should book the specialist Night From Kings Canyon and then Finke Gorge National Sky Show. Uluru is one of the world’s best locations from Park – home to rare desert palms, and with a number of which to view the stars. Discovering the constellations excellent short walks – the road continues south to Uluru. and seeing how they move about the heavens, learning An essential preliminary stop before approaching the to pinpoint the Southern Cross, and perhaps seeing great monument is the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre a shooting star or two, is, in the immensity of this in nearby Yulara, which offers maps and information landscape, an unforgettable experience. about the ranger-guided walks, rock-art tours, desert trips by camel or Harley-Davidson, and dozens of other activities available, as well as a general introduction to the THE DETAILS Anangu, the traditional Aboriginal owners of Uluru. Entry to the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park costs A$25 (about ÂŁ16) An overnight stay is essential to appreciate Uluru per vehicle for a three-day pass. See environment.gov.au/parks/uluru fully, and with 5,000 beds in the area there are plenty of for further details. places to stay, from luxurious resorts to basic three-star Glen Helen Resort (00 618 8956 7489, glenhelen.com.au) has hotels and the Ayers Rock Campsite, which has tworooms from A$160 (ÂŁ99). bedroom cabins and permanent tents for hire. Easily Kings Canyon Wilderness Lodge (00 613 9426 7550, the most luxurious choice, however, is Longitude 131°, a kingscanyonresort.com.au) has cabins from A$299 (ÂŁ185). tented wilderness resort with uninterrupted views of the Longitude 131Âş (00 61 2 8296 8010, longitude131.com.au), the Rock, the best food in the region – and a powerful sense stylish wilderness resort, has luxury tents from A$2,070 (ÂŁ1,272). of isolation. Run in association with the Anangu, the To find out more about why there’s nothing like Australia’s Aboriginal land owners, the resort comprises just Red Centre, and for information on the Henley-on-Todd 15 luxury tents, a refreshing swimming pool, library, regatta (18 August 2012) and the Watarrka, Finke Gorge and bar and open-air dining area, and staff can arrange Hermannsburg Finke National Parks, visit Australia.com/uluru exclusive excursions led by Anangu guides.

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WHEREREEFANDRAINFOREST

As above, so below Daintree National Park (top), the biodiversity hot spot that enchants every visitor, merges with the Great Barrier Reef at Cape Tribulation. Right: the sea life off Queensland is as accessible to junior snorkellers as it is to divers

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Queensland

MEET

They are two of the world’s great natural wonders – the Great Barrier Reef and Daintree National Park – and both can be explored on a single trip from Port Douglas or Cairns. Mark Chipperfield checks out why there’s nothing like Australia’s wildlife above and below water

H

aving run his ship aground on a nearby reef, Lieutenant James Cook was not in a generous mood when he surveyed the thickly wooded coastline of northern Australia in June 1770. He named the place Cape Tribulation “because here began all of our troubles”. Today’s visitor is likely to have a different impression of this beautiful stretch of tropical shoreline, which has changed very little since Cook glimpsed it from the deck of the Endeavour. Walking along the improbably white Myall Beach is one of the most glorious experiences that Far North Queensland has to offer. Just 68 miles north of Cairns, Cape Tribulation is the exact point at which the Daintree National Park meets the Great Barrier Reef. Since both natural wonders are classified as World Heritage Areas, a visit to Cape Tribulation provides a unique opportunity to explore the tropical hinterland and snorkel (or dive) on the reef on a single trip. The Daintree is the oldest surviving tropical rainforest on earth, a remote, mysterious and unpopulated slice of biodiversity that has been compared to a film set from Jurassic Park. Over recent years, the National Park has become the base for all sorts of eco-adventures, from crocodile-spotting and wilderness cruises through the mangroves to “jungle surfing”. Aboriginal guides will take you deep into the rainforest, revealing how indigenous people survived here for more than 40,000 years, harvesting wild foods from both the land and the ocean and devising a complex system of homeopathic medicine. Many Queensland resorts now offer massage therapies and other wellbeing treatments themed around indigenous culture. Both the Daintree and the Great Barrier Reef are year-round destinations, with daytime temperatures in winter (April to October) averaging 26C. Summers in this part of the world are hot and steamy, but you can always cool off in the pool or by plunging into a wild forest creek, perhaps sharing it with some miniature turtles. In fact, the four European seasons are meaningless in the tropics, where the locals simply divide the year into wet and dry. The summer months (November to March) are the hottest and dampest, which is why so many people in Sydney and Melbourne prefer to visit in

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For a deeper appreciation of indigenous culture, book one of the excellent Bama Way tours which follow the songlines of the Kuku-Yalanji and another Aboriginal tribe, the Guugu Yimithirr, from Cairns to north of Cooktown, Queensland’s most northerly outpost. For lunch, you will doubtless be offered damper — bread baked on an open fire — along with freshly caught seafood typical of the area, such as mussels and mud crabs. The Bama Way links three separate tours, each operated by the traditional custodians of the local area. At Cooya Beach, guests can join a party hunting for “bush tucker” or be taught to throw a spear by members of the Kubirri Warra clan. A highlight of the trip is viewing ancestral

IN THE NORTH, DAYTIME TEMPERATURES IN WINTER AVERAGE 26C rock art with Willie Gordon, a Nugal-warra elder and storyteller who explains the spiritual and political significance behind each panel — a rare insight into the planet’s oldest living culture, with deep connections to the Daintree, its forests, waterholes and exotic plants. Despite its close proximity to Cairns and Port Douglas, the Daintree remains a secluded place with a casual shorts-and-T-shirt lifestyle; the only vehicle access is by car ferry across the Daintree River. It is still possible to find that perfect stretch of white sand beach or a pristine swimming hole, with little prospect of running into another human being. Adventurous types can continue north from here on the Bloomfield Track, the controversial 4WD road carved through untouched wilderness, stopping at Cape Kimberley and Cow Bay, then on to the frontier settlement of Cooktown. Personally, I would prefer to end my journey at Cape Tribulation, walk along the beach and ponder what Captain Cook saw on that day in 1770, when his career, and the future of Australia, hung in the balance.

EYEVINE; PHOTOLIBRARY

Australia’s winter when it is pleasantly warm with clear skies; even ocean temperatures rarely dip below 25C. The peak of winter (June to September) is also the prime season for whale-watching, when hundreds of humpbacks migrate along the coast, often in playful family groups. Cruise skippers are on high alert during these months. A chance sighting of one of the giant mammals, breaching and slapping down its massive tail, is an experience not quickly forgotten. While Cairns, with its international airport, is a popular departure point for scuba and snorkelling trips to the Great Barrier Reef, Port Douglas, to the north, offers a more intimate holiday experience. Once a ramshackle gold-mining town, it now offers a wide choice of high-end accommodation (see The Details, below), gourmet restaurants, designer fashion outlets, a swish marina and unforgettable adventures on land, in the air, on the water and under it. Diving, yachting and fishing charters leave from the harbour daily, and a local company – Quicksilver Helicopters – will even fly you out to a private coral cay for a romantic interlude. With its beautiful white-sand beaches (notably the stunning Four Mile Beach), a buzzy little shopping village, a weekly farmers’ market and water sports galore, “Port Dougie” has enough going on for visitors to spend their whole trip there. Despite the town’s modest size, every type of ocean adventure is available down on the quayside — from overnight sailing trips and “bareboat” charters (where you skipper your own luxury yacht) to hardcore scuba diving on the outer reef. Rated one of the Seven Wonders of the World, the Great Barrier Reef supports myriad species of fish, a staggering range of sponges, multitudinous clams and more than 400 types of coral, not to mention whales, turtles, dolphins and the elusive dugong, or sea cow. Not only is it bigger, more diverse and richer in biodiversity than any other reef system on the planet, but it offers visitors an astonishing choice of underwater experiences for every ability level. Whether you want to drift languidly over coral reefs in a glass-bottomed boat, don a mask, snorkel and fins to potter among the reef fish, or go the whole adventurous hog with scuba gear, there is no shortage of options. Specialist dive boats, a community of qualified PADI instructors and the sheer diversity of the marine life have made the Great Barrier Reef a must-see for divers, helped by breathtaking underwater visibility of up to 100ft (though winds, tides and location can reduce it to 20ft). Nowhere on the Queensland coast has better access to the reef than Port Douglas. The closest snorkelling and viewing destination (Low Isles) is just eight nautical miles from the wharf, and a super-fast boat, the Reef Sprinter, can get you there in 20 minutes. While most visitors will be perfectly happy to share their first experience of the reef with a large number of new-found friends, others might enjoy something a little more exclusive, such as a five-star cruise to the outer reef. Luxurious vessels such as Poseidon III, Calypso and Silversonic (high-spec catamarans 80ft-100ft long, all with diving platforms) will take you to quieter dive locations around the outer Agincourt Ribbon Reef system. Tours are limited to no more than 90 guests and boats are equipped with excellent scuba and snorkelling gear, while their crews provide expert supervision. For those with deeper pockets, exclusive superyacht charter is also available. If you can’t decide which to experience first, the Great Barrier Reef or the Daintree National Park, don’t worry. Several companies offer small group tours taking in both. While the Daintree generally plays second fiddle to the Reef, this remarkable place, sacred to many, is just as compelling. Covering 2,730 square miles, the National Park is steeped in Aboriginal folklore and is

Flights of fancy From top: a cassowary, native to north-eastern Australia; sunset over the Coral Sea, seen from Port Douglas; and a helicopter flying over Heart Reef on the Great Barrier Reef

THE DETAILS Thala Beach Lodge (00 617 4098 5700, thalabeach.com.au). Accredited eco-resort in protected area, tucked between Great Barrier Reef Marine Park and tropical forest. Accommodation ranges from

one of the great natural wonders of the world. Dating back 110 million years, the lowland rainforest and coastal mangroves contain many rare species of plants, frogs, insects, mammals and birds. Although the Daintree occupies just one quarter of a per cent of the Australian landmass, it harbours the broadest diversity of flora and fauna anywhere in the country. Some animals, such as the musky rat-kangaroo and the large, flightless cassowary, have changed very little since prehistoric times. A cruise along the Daintree River is one of the highlights of any trip to this part of Queensland. For something really special, book an evening tour and spotlight rare species of frogs and owls in the mangroves while marvelling at the flawless southern night sky. Another not-to-be-missed experience is a visit to Mossman (a town 50 miles north of Cairns, not to be confused with the Sydney suburb of that name), where you can hike through the rainforest, plunge into crystal-clear swimming holes and learn about the KukuYalanji, the traditional owners of the land, who now run a programme of guided Aboriginal tours. Day trips depart to Mossman Gorge from both Port Douglas and Cairns.

bungalows to Sandpiper suites perched on a secluded headland. Two nights from A$445 (£276) per person, based on two sharing. Sea Temple Resort & Spa (00 617 4084 3500, seatempleport douglas.com.au). Beachfront five-star three miles from Port Douglas, with apartments grouped around a vast lagoon pool; the best of these have a private rooftop terrace with its own private spa and barbecue area. Two nights from A$310 (£193) per person, based on two sharing. Peninsula Boutique Hotel (00 617 4099 9100, peninsulahotel.com. au). Stylish four-star in Port Douglas, overlooking Four Mile Beach, with 34 contemporary suites. Doubles from A$299 (£186) per night. Quicksilver Helicopters (00 617 4099 6030, quicksilverheli.com.au). Barrier Reef flight for two to private coral cay, from A$1,198 (£745). Reef Sprinter (00 617 4099 6971, reefsprinter.com.au). High-speed boat trip with snorkelling, A$110 (£68). Cruise and dive Poseidon III (poseidon-cruises.com.au); Calypso (calypsoreefcruises.com); Silversonic (silverseries.com.au). One-day trips A$215 to A$240 (£133 to £149). The Bama Way (00 617 4040 7500, bamaway.com.au). Guided Aboriginal tours from A$16 (£10).

To find out more about why there’s nothing like Australia, visit Australia.com/queensland

2013

2012 16 Jan 30 Jan 06 Feb 05 Mar 12 Mar 16 Apr 08, 22 oct 05, 12 Nov

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£5,895 £5,895

21 Jan 28 Jan 04 Feb 04 Mar 22 Apr

£5,995 £5,995 £5,995 £5,995 £5,495

DIRECTORY

Kangaroo Island Sailing Australia’s third-largest island after Tasmania and Melville, Kangaroo Island – 93 by 35 miles – lies 70 miles south-west of Adelaide. Uninhabited except for

Perth’s in fashion Vibrantly creative, Australia’s £7 billion fashion industry has been making waves ever since Alexander McRae launched Speedo in Sydney in 1928 and the country’s swimming team sported the line at the 1932 Los Angeles Olympics. While older

EDITED BY ADRIAANE PIELOU

Australian brands reflect a tough Outback way of life – Driza-Bone, for instance, with its stockman’s rainproof oilskin – younger brands focus more on glamour for the beach, evening and city. Melbourne, with its numerous little designer boutiques, remains style capital, but anyone visiting Perth next September will see Fashion Festival fever sweep even this laid-back T-shirt and flip-flops kind of place. perthfashionfestival.com.au

the residents it was named after when British and French sailors explored it in 1802, the island remains a delightful hideaway – and a wonderful sailing destination. On the 75ft ketch Lady Eugenie, guests need no sailing experience as they set off from the Fleurieu Peninsula, on the mainland, sipping champagne on a twilight voyage. However, they are welcome to help raise the sails on a three-day adventure, feasting on fresh local produce cooked by an onboard chef. kangarooislandsailing.com.au

MONA keeps on moving

Wild bush luxury The remote Bamarru Plains safari lodge lies on Australia’s tropical northern coast, on Swim Creek buffalo station, a three-hour drive or a 20-minute flight by light aircraft from Darwin. Close to the wetlands of the Mary River floodplains and Kakadu National Park, the luxury lodge (suite pictured right) is home to spectacular bird life. More than 230 species congregate in the area, and in numbers rarely seen elsewhere in Australia. One of the world’s largest crocodile populations inhabits the

Tasmania’s MONA phenomenom just keeps on

nearby Sampan River; wallabies, wallaroos, dingos,

growing. Almost 200,000 visitors have been through

possums and wild pigs roam the region; and 5,000

the doors of the splendid building that houses

buffalo also “call the place home”, as the genial

the Museum of Old and New Art since it opened

owners say. And it gets better. The helicopters used

just outside Hobart in January, 2011. Now, the

for Mad Max-style mustering of the buffalo are

extraordinary multi-gallery exhibition space on the

now being used to give guests a bird’s-eye view

banks of the Derwent River has burrowed a further

of the thousands of kookaburras, magpie geese,

100ft into the earth and emerges at The Round

egrets, whistling ducks and flocks of corellas. One of

House. The new extension houses a collection of

Australia’s great new wildlife experiences, it costs

4,500 books reflecting MONA’s art collection, which

A$390 (£240) for a 30-minute flight. Guests can

ranges from ancient Egyptian and pre-Columbian

also make a sunset flight, landing at an isolated

to contemporary Australian pieces, with one gallery

beach for sundowners. bamarruplains.com

entirely devoted to the renowned Christopher Nolan. There’s a top-notch winery too, where visitors can watch the wine-making process. mona.net.au

A FOSTER’S? PROSECCO, PLEASE In 1967, Italian immigrant Otto Dal Zotto arrived in Australia from Valdobbiadene, in the foothills of the Italian Alps, home of the sparkling white wine, prosecco. Settling in King Valley, in the foothills of the Victorian Alps, Dal Zotto planted chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon vines. In 2000 he added prosecco. And with that, Dal

Train to see Australia Home to some of the most satisfyingly escapist train

Valley winemakers – Brown Brothers, Chrismont,

trips in the world, Australia now offers the chance

Ciccone, Pizzini and Sam Miranda – have followed

to experience a new rail route. From November until March 2012, Great Southern Rail will add to its Great

suit with Mediterranean-inspired wines, and the

Train Journeys with The Southern Spirit – running

King Valley Prosecco Road – with intimate food and

from Adelaide to Brisbane via Melbourne, crossing the Great Dividing Range, and providing magnificent

wine-cellar-door experiences – now provides

views along the eastern seaboard. Whistle-stop tours

a sparkling day out from Melbourne, a three-hour

will take in the Hunter Valley and Byron Bay. The fivenight trips cost from A$4,400 (£2,768) per person, sharing a private cabin. thesouthernspirit.com.au

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Zotto’s signature wine was born. Five other King

drive away. kingvalleyproseccoroad.com.au

Valley of many avours Two hours from Sydney or Canberra, in 120 acres of forest, Kangaroo Valley is known as one of the most beautiful valleys in Australia. Its farmers are certainly some of the best-organised: they’ve got together to devise The Foodies Trail, a day-long food and wine route that takes visitors by private car or minibus through the picturesque landcape, visiting local producers and sampling avour-packed locally-made gourmet goodies from cheeses, wines, olives, honeys and jams to rustic pies and traditional fudges and toffees. avoursofthevalley.com.au

Paradise now extra nice On Queensland’s Great Barrier Reef, the forested, beach-fringed slice of paradise that is Hayman Island is the most awarded ďŹ ve-star resort in Australia – and the remotest spot in the Reef’s Whitsunday Islands. Recently reopened after cyclone damage forced temporary closure, Hayman now has extra-glamorous additions to its famously luxurious rooms, suites and penthouses: eight new beach villas, each with its own pool, uninterrupted views of the Coral Sea, and – one would expect no less – 24-hour butler service. hayman.com.au

Eco-luxe in Nitmiluk The Northern Territory’s vast Nitmiluk National Park offers plenty for visitors keen to explore the

NEW AND NOTABLE

wilder wonders of this extraordinary continent. Next May, in Nitmiluk Gorge, a maze of waterways

As Australia’s resources

sculpted over the millennia by the Katherine River, Cicada Eco Lodge opens – an 18-room joint

boom continues, Perth is

venture between the local Jawoyn people and Indigenous Business Australia that promises a

about to open it’s first

way-it-was cultural experience in an untouched landscape – but with mod cons. en.travelnt.com

six-star Aman hotel. Opening in the historic heart of the Western Australian

Australia’s best-known export is arguably a certain boot, but as the country’s lifestyle products become ever more luxurious, the famously

capital, the opulent, 46-room Aman will be the result of an A$100m (ÂŁ62m) restoration of the Old Treasury Buildings

season, humpback whale-

(amanresorts.com).

watching. The houses rent

Also in Western Australia,

from A$750 (ÂŁ500) a night

Eco Beach, the award-

(ecobeach.com.au).

winning tropical eco-resort

In Sydney, The Darling, the first new five-star hotel to

ugly sheepskin boot looks set to be

open in the city since the

eclipsed by a glamorous new rival.

2000 Olympics, is now open at The Star harbourside

Launched by the Australian Luxe

shopping and restaurant

Collective, a “responsible luxuryâ€? brand set up by husband and wife team Nicole Durand and Stuart Rush in Melbourne, the new boots are just as seductively comfortable to slide a foot into but considerably more alluring, decorated with fringing, beading and fur. Available in men’s styles too, from ÂŁ190 to ÂŁ400 (shown, left) at Net-a-Porter (0800

complex (thedarling.com.au). 90 minutes’ drive from

With 171 rooms and

Broome, has two new

floor-to-ceiling windows

beach houses. Perfect for

overlooking the bridge,

a peaceful escape, the

it will rival the great Park

two-bedroom, two-bathroom

Hyatt – not uncoincidentally

houses are set on a clifftop

about to unveil a multi-

overlooking miles of white

million dollar renovation

beaches, the Indian Ocean,

(sydney.park.hyatt.com).

and pristine Kimberley bushland, and are linked by

STYLEDISCOVERY.COM.AU

Bliss boots

timber decks. Guests can enjoy daily yoga, massages, paddle-boarding, kayaking, fishing, snorkelling and, in

044 5701, net-a-porter.com).

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D

arcey Bussell, Britain’s most

acclaimed ballerina, was born in London in 1969. After joining the Royal Ballet School at the relatively late age of 13, she was given her ďŹ rst principal role, in The Prince of the Pagodas, while still at school. Aged 20, at the Royal Ballet, she became the youngest dancer ever to be made its including The Nutcracker and Sleeping Beauty.

Since retiring in 2007, at 38, she has been a judge on Strictly Come Dancing, written children’s ballet books, and produced a dancewear line. In 2008 she moved to Sydney with her Australian husband – the banker Angus Forbes – and daughters Phoebe (10) and Zoe (seven).

‘English friends expect the Outback to begin just outside Sydney!’

How often do you travel? I go to Europe quite a lot because of work. My parents live in France, so I go there with the family once or twice a year – and of course, since I moved to Australia, I’ve got to know it well. I grew up travelling. My dad, who was Australian,

TRAVELLING LIFE Darcey Bussell

The Australian-based ballerina on crocodile-spotting, vineyard visits, and trying to steer a Winnebago took us to America a lot, doing house-swaps and

Your idea of a perfect family holiday?

taking big bottles; I have small travelling bottles

more tropical as you get closer to Byron Bay.

visiting Florida. Then, when I was with the Royal

Train journeys are really amazing for children,

which I can reďŹ ll. I also take a little travel pack

The facilities on-board a Winnebago are

Ballet, we used to do a big overseas tour each

because you can get up and move around while

so I can wash some of my clothes by hand.

phenomenal, but driving one is among the

year: I celebrated my 18th birthday in Japan.

travelling and also see so much of a country.

Handbag essentials?

scariest things I have ever done, especially

Have you explored much of Australia?

When the girls were very young, we took the train

Lip balms and hand creams. When you travel,

going around a really small roundabout!

Yes. The lovely thing is that it’s still quite raw,

across America – from New York to Seattle. It

especially on planes, your skin tends to get very

Are you an adventurer?

natural and unpopulated, and there is so much

was just two nights, with a stopover in Chicago,

dry. I always have a bottle of water with me, too,

Yes – and being a Londoner and totally English,

to see. We’ve just been up to Port Douglas, in

but they thought it was wonderful. They still love

plus some chewing gum and a nail ďŹ le.

I feel fortunate that we’ve been able to cross

North Queensland: very tropical, great beaches.

ying, of course, but that long train journey was

Do you enjoy active holidays?

the world and live in a country that lets you

We saw crocodiles and went out to the Barrier

a real eye-opener. There are some great train trips

My husband is a mad keen sailor, and living in

experience so many new things. I think we’re all

Reef. We’ve also done some memorable short

to be done in Australia – the Indian PaciďŹ c route,

Sydney means we sail on Sydney Harbour quite

getting a bit safe these days. You need to test

trips out of Sydney: to Kangaroo Valley, about two

from Sydney to Perth, takes about 65 hours and is

regularly. But I’ve done some yachting in the

yourself. But I don’t need daredevil thrills.

hours south, which has wonderful walking trails

one of the longest train journeys in the world.

Mediterranean and would love to go back and sail

Your favourite city?

thousands of years old; and to the Hunter Valley

Do you travel light?

around Sicily. That’s a dream of mine.

Sydney is great – I like living in a city where you

wine region, which is really lush. When English

I’m an expert at living out of a suitcase. Our

What do you crave in a trip?

don’t have to drive everywhere. Other favourites

friends come out they are always surprised by

tours [with the Royal Ballet] would last for seven

I love the ocean – although I don’t have to be

are New York, Barcelona, St Petersburg and

how green the countryside is. They also expect

weeks, often going through very different climatic

a beach babe. And I like views. So if there are

Copenhagen. I do like a city with greenery, so

the Outback to begin just outside Sydney!

conditions. So I had to plan very efďŹ ciently – and

mountains, water and a bit of culture – also

another love is San Francisco. But as a Londoner,

Where are you going next?

leave room to buy clothes while we were away,

essential – then that’s my perfect holiday.

I have to say my absolute favourite is London.

Travelling to Australia from Europe gives you great

especially in Japan and China, where shopping is

Do you look for simplicity or luxury?

Your most romantic hotel?

opportunities for stopovers in Asia. I visited Japan

such an essential part of the cultural experience.

A bit of both, really. We often stay in holiday

The Mandarin Oriental in New York. It’s in the

and China as a dancer, and I’d really like to visit

What do you always pack?

apartments, something really simple with a little

most amazing spot, overlooking Central Park. You

the Philippines and some of the smaller islands.

A raincoat, due to having grown up in England!

kitchenette, but close to everything. We’ve also

enter on the 35th oor, so the views are fantastic.

And I haven’t even been to New Zealand yet,

I’m not really an iPod kind of person; even if I have

hired a Winnebago for a week. We drove from

Interview by Mark ChipperďŹ eld

which is ridiculous, given it’s so close to Sydney.

one with me, I prefer to take in the sights and

Sydney up the east coast of New South Wales

Do you travel much as a family?

sounds around me. But I always take some good

to Byron Bay, which is about 430 miles along the

Yes. I do really believe that travel is a great way

reading material and, like everyone else, I always

PaciďŹ c Highway through some pretty amazing

to open children’s minds and to teach them to

travel with a laptop. I like to take my own toiletries

landscapes: seaside towns, forest, sand dunes,

appreciate new landscapes and cultures.

and because I am conscious of waste and hate

farmland, rivers, and everything becoming

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To find out more about why there’s nothing like Australia and to plan your next holiday, visit Australia.com

STEPHEN OXENBURY/GN&M LTD.

principal ballerina, dancing lead roles in ballets

There’s nothing like following a loc al guide.

It didn’ t matter that we were underwater; I was holding my breath anyway. When you find yourself face to face with such a magnificent creature, there’s not much else you can do. I grinned. I pinched myself. Then I tried my best to keep up as he introduced me to his friends. Just when you think you’re getting used to the wonders of our west coast, you dive headfirst into an underwater playground. Ningaloo Reef is mind blowing, a sanctuary of coral gardens, teaming with bottlenose dolphins, dugongs, manta rays and a kaleidoscope of coral fish. I’ ll definitely be back here again. And I’m sure, if you make your way out here, you’ ll find yourself coming back for more.

visit: australia.com

www.chanel.com

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