Ultratravel Golf Special 2013

ultratravel APRIL 2013

The Daily Telegraph

GOLF SPECIAL

&

VIETNAM’S TOP COURSES NEON THE NEW FAIRWAY FASHION ROCCA’S ITALIAN FEAST

Master stroke

NICK FALDO PICKS HIS PERFECT18 + HOW TO PLAY WITH ADAM SCOTT

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CONTENTS Features 11 Access all areas Nick Trend on how to play the top championship courses and compete against the pros 16 Insider Medinah Max Davidson boards the Ryder Cup Europe jet to Chicago and takes an exclusive behind-the-scenes look at golf’s loudest, proudest event 23 Nick Faldo’s perfect 18 The British golf legend creates his fantasy course from favourite holes around the world, and offers tips on how to play them 26 Home from home Adam Scott, Justin Rose and Ian Poulter own properties at Albany, the golf resort in the Bahamas in which Tiger Woods and Ernie Els are partners. Ed Victor, the literary agent, is impressed 30 Culture club At Nick Faldo’s new Laguna Lang Co course in Vietnam, fragrant cuisine, Fujian temples and the old river port of Hoi An are as much a draw as the golf; plus five of the best courses in Asia 36 A man of many courses Food-loving Costantino Rocca – Italy’s greatest golfer – invites Adam Ruck to Franciacorta for a few holes on the Wine Golf Course followed by lunch at Gualtiero Marchesi’s restaurant

Regulars 13 Fashion Neon colours, the season’s trend, are the way to stand out on the golf course, says Sarah Stirk Party time Adam Scott celebrates his win at the Masters 2013. On page 11, find out how to play with him

the latest clubs to have in your bag 42 Travelling life Olympic rower Sir Steve Redgrave on skiing the Three Valleys, flying first-class in a private pod, and playing the longest, highest par-three in the world

GETTY; REX

15 Kit test Paul O’Hagan of Golf Monthly reviews

CONTRIBUTORS

Cover The17th, TPC Sawgrass, USA Photograph Chip Henderson

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Ed Victor The literary agent, who splits his time between London and The Hamptons, numbers Joan Collins, Eric Clapton and Nigella Lawson among his clients. He was nevertheless star-struck on a golf break to Albany in the Bahamas, where a clutch of champions have homes.

Adam Ruck Given that the writer’s great-grandfather brought the game to Aberdovey in the 1880s, it is no surprise he is a regular player. His greatest triumph? “Getting a hole in one and an eagle two in the same round, having just started playing the game.

I assumed it was normal.”

Sarah Stirk After a visit to Gleneagles, the Sky Sports presenter found herself hooked on golf: “When you hit that one shot and it just clicks, you are addicted – and I have been ever since”.

Following pro tournaments, she says, is “the most amazing job in the world”.

Sir Steve Redgrave Britain’s greatest Olympic rower didn’t go on holiday much until he retired, because he was too busy training. More recently he has travelled widely, last year visiting South Africa for a golfing safari – “an ideal combination of sun for the girls and clubs for the boys”

36

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Editor Charles Starmer-Smith Creative director Johnny Morris Managing editor Andrew Purvis Deputy editor Lisa Grainger Sub-editor Yolanda Carslaw Photography editor Joe Plimmer Contributing editor Nick Trend Executive publisher for Ultratravel Limited Nick Perry Publisher Toby Moore Advertising inquiries 07768 106322 (Nick Perry) 020 7931 3239 (Andrew Wiltshire) Ultratravel, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT Twitter @TeleLuxTravel © Telegraph Media Group Limited 2013. Published by TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, and printed by Polestar UK Limited.

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INTELLIGENCE

Access all areas Pebble Beach (left), where amateur golfers can get to play for a fee. Inset: Adam Scott, one of the pros bookable through Great Golf Courses of Australia

MAKING THE LINKS

With the right connections, says Nick Trend, amateurs can play the major venues and compete against the pros

E

times, paying a fat green fee and keeping a low

ven the most ardent fan of rugby, cricket or football stands little chance of playing alongside the pros in a match at Twickenham, Lordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s or Wembley.

Golf is different. Its unique handicap system allows players of all abilities to compete against each other, even on the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous courses.

That is the theory, anyway. In practice, I would struggle to beat Rory McIlroy with a handicap difference of only 13, and many of the truly iconic courses â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which include most of the American venues for the US majors and the Ryder Cup, plus a number of exclusive clubs in Britain, France and Japan â&#x20AC;&#x201C; are closed to non-members. While all the Open venues in Britain can be booked by visitors with a suitable handicap, this is harder in America. Ring up and ask to play at Pine Valley, The Country Club in Brookline, The Olympic Club, Hazeltine or Augusta National, and you will be politely refused. As for playing a round with a pro, that is surely for billionaires or serious corporate guests at pro-ams. Or is it? While that kind of access doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t come cheap, it can be arranged if you have the right connections and know how.

proďŹ le. One insider, who is used to dealing with some of the most exclusive US clubs, told me: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Before they let you on, they want to be sure that you are the right type, will behave discreetly and wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t disturb the members. Approach them in the right way, and there is a good chance they will look at your request sympathetically.â&#x20AC;? The key rules to maximise your chances of success are: 1 Plan well in advance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; six months or a year.

2 Avoid dates near a major championship.

3 Find out the name of the club secretary and write a letter, rather than an email, explaining why you wish to play the course. Remember to give details of your handicap, home club and any relevant links or introductions.

If you have a healthy bank balance, it is always

4 Explain that you would be happy to play at

of swing analysis and course management.

a quiet time of day or year, and be as ďŹ&#x201A;exible as

Second, you can join one of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

possible to track down a playerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s agent and

regular academy sessions. From July 15-17, for

you can about suggested dates.

negotiate. Most top tour pros â&#x20AC;&#x201C; even some of the

instance, former PGA champion Tony Johnstone

5 Include a golďŹ ng and a character reference

biggest names in golf â&#x20AC;&#x201C; will happily ďŹ t in a round

will be leading a Tour Master Class at Turnberry.

from your own club secretary.

or a few holes, if you can agree a convenient

The three-night package costs ÂŁ1,750 per person,

course and a suitable ďŹ ve- or even six-ďŹ gure sum.

including accommodation for two and a ticket to

strategy is to go through a tour operator which

any day of that weekâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Open at MuirďŹ eld.

specialises in access to championship courses.

In Australia, keen amateurs can get to play with PGA pros including Adam Scott, Geoff Ogilvy,

A more reliable (although more expensive)

Alternatively, Xclusive Golf (0844 504 9914,

Some, such as Golfbreaks.com (0800 279 7988)

Marcus Fraser and Stuart Appleby, through Great

xclusivegolf.com), founded by Sky Sports golf

and Supertravel Golf (020 7962 9494,

Golf Courses of Australia (greatgolfaustralia.

presenter Sarah Stirk, can arrange entry into the

supertravel.co.uk) can book some of the most

com.au, email info@ greatgolfaustralia.com.au).

worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top pro-am tournaments, plus lessons and

Depending on the course, 18 holes with Adam

clinics with instructors including Hank Haney

Scott cost about A$200,000 (ÂŁ138,000), including

(Tiger Woodsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; former coach) and a chance to have

lunch and memorabilia, while a round with Geoff

as your caddy Billy Foster, who has worked

Ogilvy costs A$100,000 (ÂŁ69,000). Factor in ďŹ&#x201A;ights

with Ballesteros, Clarke, Westwood and Garcia.

business class) and the experience isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t cheap.

However, there are more affordable ways of

This summer, the company is holding a charity auction, the top prize being a chance to caddy for Simon Khan at the Pro Am before the PGA

doing this. Closer to home, Chris Moody, who won

Championship at the West Course, Wentworth, on

the European Masters in 1988, has set up a new

May 22. The package includes two tickets to the

company, Tour Master Classes (020 7193 4919,

opening round next day and access to the MoĂŤt

tourmasterclasses.com), which offers access to

& Chandon Brasserie (bids over ÂŁ1,000 are invited;

14 champion golfers, including Mark James and

proceeds go to the Tour Players Foundation).

Costantino Rocca. There are two options. First, you can book a bespoke day (or days) at a top

PLAYING THE COURSES

course â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Wentworth, Verdura in Sicily, or Le Telfair

Exclusive clubs enjoy being the focus of world

in Mauritius, say â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and you and two friends can be

attention from time to time, but they do not want

coached by, and play a round with, one of the

hoards descending on their velvet fairways.

pros. A single day in Britain costs from ÂŁ1,250

However, there are few that will not welcome

a head, including green fees and a programme

a handful of well-behaved golfers visiting at quiet

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

those â&#x20AC;&#x201C; such as Pebble Beach â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which are open to private bookings from individuals anyway.

There are few top clubs that will not welcome a handful of well-behaved golfers at quiet times, paying a fat fee and keeping a low proďŹ le

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

to Australia (from ÂŁ850 in economy and ÂŁ3,200 in

prestigious American clubs, but normally only

A wider choice is available through the VIP department of Your Golf Travel (0808 163 3549, yourgolftravel.com), which can arrange for you to play even at clubs usally closed to non-members.

The company says it can make introductions at most of the famous courses, and its clients have been booked to play at Loch Lomond, Pine Valley, Medinah, The Olympic Club and Augusta National.

This can usually be arranged during bespoke tours, pro-am tournaments and high-proďŹ le charity events that occur around professional tour competitions. I asked a company spokesman how he managed to get customers on to the course at Augusta â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one of the most famously reclusive clubs of all â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but all he would say was: â&#x20AC;&#x153;We can get you on, we just canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tell you anything about it.â&#x20AC;? Email VIP@yourgolftravel.com.

GETTY

PLAYING WITH THE PROS

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A Q U A S C U T U M : A R M A N I E A 7 : C O L M A R : D R U H B E LT S & B U C K L E S : E C C O : F E R R A R I G O L F : G / F O R E : G A B I C C I H U G O B O S S : J . L I N D E B E R G : L A C O S T E : LY L E & S C O T T : N E B U L O N I : O L I V E R S W E E N E Y : O R I G I N A L P E N G U I N P O L O G O L F : P O R S C H E D E S I G N : P U M A G O L F : R L X R A L P H L A U R E N : R O YA L A L B A R T R O S S

FASHION

Brighter greens

Neon colours, not loud checks, are the way to get noticed on the course, says Sky Sports golf presenter Sarah Stirk

1

2

3

4 Red mini-dress in stretch polyester, from the spring/summer 2013 Golf Collection by J Lindeberg; ÂŁ90 (020 8865 2781, jlindeberg.com).

1 Cabretta golfing glove in leather, custom-made in 18 colours

by G/Fore; $35/ÂŁ23 per pair (001 310 558 2875, gfore.com).

2 Belt in recycled rubber with polycarbonate buckle, by Fedaboa; â&#x201A;Ź39.95/ÂŁ35 (fedaboa.com).

3 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Adizero Tour golf shoe in white leather with yellow trim and sole, by Adidas; ÂŁ89.99 (0800 279 4144, adidas.co.uk).

4 Pleated mini-dress in antibacterial microfibre piquet which protects against UV rays, by Colmar; â&#x201A;Ź145/ÂŁ125 (colmar.it).

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KIT TEST

Ace of clubs

Paul O’Hagan of Golf Monthly introduces the latest weapons, combining good looks with textures and technologies designed to perfect a player’s game

Ping Scottsdale TR Grayhawk putter £149 This adjustable club can be set anywhere between 31 and 38 inches in length.

The shaft is unscrewed below the grip until a comfortable position is found, then locked in place. Grooves are deepest in the centre and get shallower towards the perimeter to improve consistency (01427 619228, ping.com).

Cleveland 588 RTX wedge £109 The shape of the 588 wedge makes it a classic – and the latest model will suit all types of golfer, thanks to two head options: a cavity design and a traditional wedge. Both feature the new Rotex face, with a milled pattern that helps add spin on shots when the face is opened up (01420 541709, clevelandgolf.com).

Callaway X Hot hybrid £149 X Hot is the most exciting Callaway range for a long time, combining modern technology with a finish reminiscent of classic Callaway woods. A new Speed Frame Face should increase the pace of the ball, adding distance even when players don’t find the middle of the club (0800 096 4591, callawaygolf.com).

TaylorMade R1 driver £349 The most adjustable driver on the market is easier to use than previous versions. Its head can be set anywhere between eight and 12 degrees while a new sole design gives a choice of seven address positions. Weights in the head can be swapped to affect flight (0800 072 8624, taylormadegolf.eu).

GETTY

Titleist Pro V1 £51 per dozen Improved durability means this premium ball doesn’t scuff as easily as others and stays white for longer. This latest version is the softest yet, as well as being longer than previous incarnations on account of lower long-game spin and a shallower angle of descent which produces more roll (01480 301114, titleist.co.uk).

Grandstand view

Max Davidson gets exclusive access to Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ryder Cup roadshow in Illinois and wonders how Gleneagles can match it

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Centre stage Luke Donald of the European team tees off for the first hole during the 2012 Ryder Cup in Medinah, Illinois

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Tee party Clockwise, from far left: spectator essentials; Sergio Garcia (left), Justin Rose (centre) and John McLaren, Luke Donaldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s caddie, celebrate the European win; Miguel JimĂŠnez (Europe); action at the 17th hole; and the Ryder Cup trophy

B THERE IS ELECTRICITY IN THE AIR. CORKS POP. OLD FRIENDS SHOUT GREETINGS ACROSS THE PLANE.

BY THE TIME WE ARRIVE WE FEEL LIKE VISITING ROYALTY

y the side of the ďŹ rst green, where I am craning to watch Luke Donald line up his putt, a man in a bright red cow suit is similarly engrossed. â&#x20AC;&#x153;British?â&#x20AC;? I whisper. You can always tell. He gives a shy nod and extends a hoof for me to shake. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Gary. From Nottingham.â&#x20AC;? Ten seconds later, the hoof is punching the air as Donaldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s putt hits the bottom of the cup. I am halfexpecting a moo, but there is just a hissed â&#x20AC;&#x153;Yessssssssss!â&#x20AC;? The American fans to our right applaud politely, then start a rolling chant of â&#x20AC;&#x153;U-S-A! U-S-A!â&#x20AC;?

Gary and his mate Dave, who is dressed as a matador, have ďŹ&#x201A;own 4,000 miles to be here, and they are having the time of their lives. Tomorrow they are coming as leprechauns, they tell me, with pride in their voices.

They are not British, they are not Spanish, they are not Irish, they are European, and proud of it.

Welcome to the Ryder Cup, the maddest, grandest sports event of them all â&#x20AC;&#x201C; where passion meets patriotism, dress codes go out of the window and every birdie is greeted by a roar you can hear half a mile away.

I have only ever watched this wonderful biennial event on television before, gripped every time by the unfolding drama; so to be in the thick of it, attending the 39th Ryder Cup in Chicago as the guest of MoĂŤt&Chandon, one of the sponsors, is a dream come true. From the moment I board the plane at Heathrow, travelling with the players and ofďŹ cials, I am in groupie heaven. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Good luck!â&#x20AC;? I shout to the European captain, JosĂŠ MarĂ­a OlazĂĄbal, who ďŹ&#x201A;ashes me a smile. He is ďŹ&#x201A;anked by two of his vice-captains, big Darren Clarke, looking serious, and Miguel JimĂŠnez, chomping one of his trademark cigars. Then the players follow in dribs and drabs: Paul Lawrie, Francesco Molinari, Nicolas Colsaerts, the Belgian rookieâ&#x20AC;Ś I feel like a schoolboy again, itching to ask for their autographs.

It is still four days before the ďŹ rst foursomes match

on Friday morning, but already there is electricity in the air. Corks pop. Old friends shout greetings at each other across the plane. By the time we arrive at Rockford International Airport, before being swept to our hotels in a cavalcade headed by police outriders, we feel like visiting royalty.

The next 72 hours pass in a happy blur of receptions, gala dinners and opening ceremonies, interspersed with practice rounds at the Medinah Country Club, 20 miles from Chicago, where the event is being held. It is not the most picturesque clubhouse in the world: one wag likened the architecture to a suburban crematorium. But the course itself, zigzagging across a wooded lake, is magniďŹ cent: long, testing and in superlative condition, with not a blade of grass out of place.

The Ryder Cup Europe hospitality suite, my base for the week, overlooks the 18th green â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a ringside seat if ever there was one. What I am not prepared for is the sheer scale of the ofďŹ cial entourage. For each of the 12 players representing Europe, there must be at least 20 supporters and hangers-on, from golďŹ ng grandees to celebrities from other sports (the footballer Alex McLeish, the cricketer Michael Atherton), from friends and relatives to sponsors.

There is even a cardiologist from Birmingham who has operated on a grateful Ryder Cup bigwig.

With such a rich human brew, the off-course craic proves almost as entertaining as the golf itself. One minute I am exchanging fashion notes with the man responsible for the European teamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trousers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the shirts have a separate sponsor â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the next I am deep in conversation with Lee Westwoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s father and Ian Poulterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s uncle at a rooftop barbecue. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Lee spends three hours a day in the gym,â&#x20AC;? Westwood Sr tells me proudly. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t he spend less time in the gym and more on the putting green?â&#x20AC;? I murmur. Luckily, my comment is drowned by the roar of an incoming jet, bringing yet more golf fans to the Windy City.

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Stripe-tease Members of the American Ryder Cup team, above, during the moments immediately after Martin Kaymer, below, buried a 6ft putt at the 18th hole to give Europe the 2012 title

TELEVISION CANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T CAPTURE THE HIGH TREES, SPECKLED WITH COLOUR, THE GEESE FLYING OVERHEAD, OR THE UNDULATING GREENS, TERRIFYING TO AN AMATEUR

to Formula One events in Europe, but this is a ďŹ rst,â&#x20AC;? says Tony. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Some show, eh? Beats 20/20 cricket.â&#x20AC;?

Then there is the elderly Austrian couple sitting in fold-up chairs beside the fourth green, proudly waving their European ďŹ&#x201A;ags. They now live in Nashville, Tennessee, where they own a cigar shop. They are in the right industry. Cigar-smoking spectators are a big feature of American golf events in a way they are not in Europe.

Tobacco fumes mingle with the smell of hot dogs and ketchup and fried onions. It is a heady bouquet and, by late afternoon, is mingled with after-notes of Budweiser.

Hell for the aesthete, heaven for the sports fan.

Shot for shot, I see only a tiny fraction of what I would have seen had I stayed at home and watched the Ryder Cup on television. But the pleasures of being there, right in the thick of it, far outweigh the missed birdies.

Television can never capture the physical texture of an American golf course: the high trees, speckled with colour; the undulating greens, terrifying to an amateur; or the equally scary tee-shots over windswept lakes to pocket-handkerchief greens. It cannot capture the geese ďŹ&#x201A;ying overhead in perfect formation, while the Stars and Stripes ďŹ&#x201A;utters above the clubhouse. And it cannot begin to capture the atmosphere in the crowd: the partisanship; the camaraderie; the ďŹ t-to-burst sense of anticipation.

Long before the Ryder Cup reaches its unforgettable climax, with Europe snatching a famous victory on the 18th green, not 30 yards from where I am standing, I am in a sporting paradise, surrounded by soulmates.

As the European players spray champagne over delirious fans, a great anthem of joy rises into the skies above Chicago. â&#x20AC;&#x153;OlĂŠ, olĂŠ, olĂŠ, olĂŠ! OlĂŠ, olĂŠ, olĂŠ, olĂŠ!â&#x20AC;?

Luckily, the words are easy to remember. I am far too merry to manage â&#x20AC;&#x153;Jerusalemâ&#x20AC;?.

The next Ryder Cup is at Gleneagles (gleneagles.com) from September 26-28, 2014. Golf Breaks (golfbreaks.com) offers ďŹ ve nights at the Hotel du Vin, Edinburgh, from ÂŁ2,470 per person, b&b, including tickets and daily transfers. Your Golf Travel (yourgolftravel.com) offers eight nights at the Old Course Hotel, St Andrews, from ÂŁ7,799 per person, including International Pavilion badges, daily transfers and six meals, some in the clubhouse. Ryder Cup Travel Services (rcts.co.uk).

GETTY; REUTERS; EPA

Gleneagles in Scotland, the venue for the 2014 Ryder Cup, has sent a sizeable contingent of observers, including two uniformed ofďŹ cers from Tayside Police, who are studying the delicate art of keeping 45,000 excitable supporters in check. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We think we can handle the crowds,â&#x20AC;? one of them tells me. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I just wish I could be conďŹ dent about the weather.â&#x20AC;?

He is probably right to be apprehensive. Scottish hospitality is celebrated, but Gleneagles will struggle to match Illinois in the fall: temperatures in the mid-seventies; clear blue skies; the gentlest of breezes ďŹ&#x201A;uttering the ďŹ&#x201A;ag-sticks. It is hard to imagine better conditions for watching golf â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or such golf as it is possible to watch over the heads of the other spectators.

That is the rub, of course. Watching big golf events, as I have found when going to the Open, can be incredibly frustrating. However well you plan your day, you are able to see only a small amount of the action: for the rest, you are dependent on scoreboards, a few video screens and, if you are lucky, a radio.

So how should I plot my way around Medinah? The three-times Ryder Cup captain Bernard Gallacher, who is staying at my hotel, has some useful advice. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Whatever else you do, make sure you are at the ďŹ rst tee on the ďŹ rst morning. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll never hear anything like it.â&#x20AC;?

He is not wrong. The ďŹ rst match of the 39th Ryder Cup tees off at 7.30am, so I have to leave the hotel in pitch darkness to be sure of getting a seat in the grandstand.

But it is not an experience I will ever forget. By 6.30, the stand is packed with crowds waiting for the gladiators to make their entrance. By seven, you can hardly hear yourself speak for the cacophony of cheering â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cheering that rises to a great visceral roar as Jim Furyk and Brandt Snedeker, leading off for America, emerge from the clubhouse with their caddies.

That roar alone explains the potency of the Ryder Cup, its unique place in the sporting calendar. Over the next three days, I meet people who have been looking forward to the event like excited schoolchildren, planning their whole year around it. British expats John and Emma have ďŹ&#x201A;own in from Vancouver for the weekend. Bev and Tony from Telford have made the Ryder Cup the centrepiece of a ďŹ&#x201A;y-drive holiday around the Great Lakes. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have been

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My plan was to make this a working holiday.

Winds up that plan had a few holes in it.

I packed my laptop and my smartphone and planned on spending a fair amount of this holiday working. But my buddies put a few holes in that plan – 36 a day, to be precise. So now, instead of working on work I’m working on my game and my tan playing on courses from the beaches to the mountains – all right here in South Carolina. As for the work, it’ll get done. Eventually.

Kiawah Ocean Course #18, Kiawah Island

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Golden moment Sir Nick Faldo tees off during a practice round prior to the 138th Open on the Ailsa Course, Turnberry, in 2009

NICK FALDOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PERFECT

18

With 40 professional victories, 29 European Tour wins and six Major championships under his belt, Sir Nick Faldo is Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest ever golfer. The most succesful Ryder Cup player of all time and a former world number one, he was famed for his dedication, single-mindedness and ability to perform under pressure. Faldo has brought the same skill and work ethic to his course design, creating dozens of challenging layouts across several continents. Now a golf commentator for CBS, he knows a thing or two about what makes a great golf hole. Here, exclusively for Ultratravel, he reveals his favourite holes worldwide

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NICK FALDOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PERFECT18 If he could create a fantasy golf course combining great holes from around the world, which would the British golďŹ ng legend choose? Here is his pick, with tips on how to play them

1

ROYAL BIRKDALE, ENGLAND The era of the big par-fours has gone, moreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the pity. In my day, this was a narrow drive between sand dunes, followed by a two-iron â&#x20AC;&#x201C; some wake-up call on a windy day! In the 1983 Open, I started double-double, and made a 69 (royalbirkdale.com).

2

AUGUSTA NATIONAL, USA Strange as it sounds, this is a key part of the round. You will often have made a nervy ďŹ ve at the ďŹ rst and will really need a four to bounce back. The green is tough to hit with your second; or you can get in a right tizz trying to decide where to lay up (masters.com)

3

KINGSTON HEATH, AUSTRALIA In the sand belt near Melbourne, this is one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great courses, with hard, fast greens and bunkering by Alister MacKenzie, the master of the strategic short par-four. The third calls for a three-iron and a pitch to a small green. It sounds easy, but it can leave you in a real mess (kingstonheath.com.au).

4

ST ANDREWS, SCOTLAND On the Old Course, this is quite simply the biggest, strongest brute of a par-four you can ďŹ nd. We used to go way to the left and bomb it over the hills, splitting the difference with the 15th, but now theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve grown the rough. Drive, four-iron, two putts and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re happy (standrews.org.uk).

5

AUGUSTA NATIONAL, USA If you drive to this plateau fairway and miss it, you are 10ft down and all you can see is blue sky. But the real feature here is the unique green, with a ridge running right across it. A lot of great shots have been hit here which havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t found the green.

6

MUIRFIELD, SCOTLAND This is a tough par-four over and round a corner, usually with a crosswind; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s semi-blind off the tee, with a semi-blind second.

Miss the drive and you are in the hay, thinking that all you can do is chop it out â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but where to chop it? Grind out a good old Faldo par (muirďŹ eld.org.uk).

7

HARBOUR TOWN, USA This one is a lovely par-three with a sliver of a green no more than eight yards wide, an overhanging tree in the left corner and an arty Pete Dye bunker on the other side. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a hole full of southern charm, but more dangerous than the alligators (seapines.com).

8

TURNBERRY, SCOTLAND Another long, rolling par-four that needs a big drive and a big iron shot. The slope of the fairway takes your ball towards a driving bunker on the right, and there is more sand on the left for the approach. Very simple; very tough. Enjoy the view of the Isle of Arran as you make your way down (turnberryresort.co.uk).

9

AUGUSTA NATIONAL, USA Some second shotâ&#x20AC;Ś From a downhill lie, you are hitting up to a sloping green â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the bunkers get bigger as you get older! I have fond memories of the half-seven-iron I hit to 6ft in 1990. People say the key shots are played down the stretch, but that shot was the key to my round.

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10

RIVIERA COUNTRY CLUB, USA A great, short par-four, driveable now â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the talk of the town when the cameras come to Riviera for the Northern Trust Open every February. When I won the trophy [right], it was a two-iron and a pitch. Put the best players 30 yards out and watch them miss the green (therivieracountryclub.com).

11

AUGUSTA NATIONAL, USA This was my play-off hole, where I won two Masters against Scott Hoch and Ray Floyd respectively, and made the sweetest long-putt of my life â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from 25ft in 1989. Ben Hogan used to say, â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you see me on that green in two, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a mistake.â&#x20AC;?

12

ROYAL BIRKDALE, ENGLAND The 12th here is a classic links short-hole, with a small green nestled between big mounds, very exposed to the wind. Which club do you take?

Probably a three-iron, but this hole really is a beast on a blustery day.

13

WENTWORTH, ENGLAND The West Course 13th is always an awkward customer because it turns right to left but the lie of the land goes the other way. Overcook your tee shot and you can be blocked: it needs a late, hooky one around the corner â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an interesting shot that you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get to play often (wentworthclub.com).

14

ST ANDREWS, SCOTLAND This is the most wonderful strategy hole in golf, although the new championship tee is crazy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see a thing from back there. Hell Bunker is not the problem â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I used to aim left and play up the ďŹ fth, and have never been in.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about knowing where to lay up.

15

KINGSTON HEATH, AUSTRALIA Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s uphill to a tiny green with steep bunkers all around. Miss the green and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in a mess. Take an extra club by all means, to avoid falling short, but if you hit beyond the hole, watch out: the green slopes from back to front.

16

CYPRESS POINT, USA There is nothing quite like the walk from the 15th to this most famous of postcard holes, right by the ocean. You never know what the wind is going to be doing. I had two twos there recently, either side of lunch, but it can easily be a seven (montereypeninsulagolf.com).

17

TPC AT SAWGRASS, USA What, not the Road Hole at St Andrews?

Well, with its island green [right], this is a hole for which you have to prepare yourself mentally; in fact, it may be the greatest example of that. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re already thinking about it on the Interstate 95 on the way to Jacksonville (tpc.com/tpc-sawgrass).

18

MUIRFIELD, SCOTLAND To put to bed the round, and maybe the Open Championship, two good solid shots are required to a green [in background, below] with any number of twists and turns. I played the three-iron of my life here in 1992, taking the paint off the ďŹ&#x201A;ag.

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CYPRESS POINT, USA From a chair on the verandah at the back of the clubhouse, you look down through the cypresses and have a perfect view of the 16th. Glenmorangie is normally my drink, but at Cypress you drink Samâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Special. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know the recipe, but I can taste it now, and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lot of rum in it.

GETTY

TOTAL 6,847 yards, par 69

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MY FAIRWAY FIX

For Ed Victor, the world-renowned literary agent and self-confessed golf addict, Albany in the Bahamas was the ideal place to fuel his habit: a ďŹ ve-star resort with a course designed by Ernie Els and a handful of golďŹ ng greats as residents

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Grass and class The seventh hole at Albany, one of several running alongside the beach. Right: the Adjmi West Penthouse at the exclusive property, a 10-minute drive from Nassau airport

M

y name is Ed, and I am an addict. My addiction is not to alcohol or any illicit substance. It is, in certain senses, far worse. You see, my addiction is to golf, and there is no known treatment, let alone cure, for my malady.

As a self-confessed golfaholic, virtually all of my leisure travel is conďŹ gured to cater to my uncontrollable cravings. Hotels without â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or far from â&#x20AC;&#x201C; golf courses, however stylish and satisfying, are forever crossed off my list of possible destinations. A holiday without a golf course nearby is not, alas, a proper holiday for me. In an ideal world, I want to be at a ďŹ rst-class hotel that has a ďŹ rst-class golf course right on the property. And I recently found exactly such an ideal world at Albany in the Bahamas.

Albany is not just a golf resort but a luxury marina development spanning 600 oceanfront acres on New Providence island. Often, when you go on holiday to the Caribbean or the Maldives, say, you have to take another plane (or boat) at the end of a long ďŹ&#x201A;ight from London. Not so with Albany, which is less than 10 minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; drive from Nassau airport.

The various buildings â&#x20AC;&#x201C; residential villas and apartments, restaurants, spa, ďŹ tness centre, kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; club, golf clubhouse and pro shop â&#x20AC;&#x201C; are spread over the property and accessed by golf carts. It is a big place that soon seems intimate. Even though it is relatively new, having opened in October 2010, it feels like it has been there for years.

We were shown to a beachfront villa with private access to a long, sandy beach that fringed the calm, warm ocean. Albany, while not a hotel in the strict sense of the word, has all the services and comforts you would normally associate with a ďŹ ve-star hotel.

However, if you do not feel like eating in a restaurant or ordering room service, you can self-cater in a fully-equipped kitchen.

A short golf-cart ride away from our villa was the 18-hole, 7,400-yard golf course designed by Ernie Els. After playing my ďŹ rst round, I decided he must have been in a very bad mood when he conďŹ gured it, because it is a very tough track indeed. However, subsequent rounds made me realise that it was as fair as it was tough, and many of the holes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; especially those running alongside the beach â&#x20AC;&#x201C; are spectacularly beautiful.

As difďŹ cult a sport as golf tends to be for 18-handicap hackers like me, each round inevitably provides one or two shots that bring you back for yet another round. I call these â&#x20AC;&#x153;bath shotsâ&#x20AC;?, because I like to soak in a hot tub after my round, close my eyes and

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relive those soaring, beautiful moments (minus the shanks and hooks that plagued me). At Albany I played back my bath shots not in a bathtub but, of course, in a glorious Jacuzzi overlooking the sea.

Els is one partner in the development, along with Tiger Woods and the British investor Joe Lewis, all of whom have homes there. Other great sports ďŹ gures who own property at Albany are Justin Rose, Ian Poulter and Adam Scott. How can you go wrong if your Caribbean home from home is the home from home of these top golfers?

Next to the pro shop at the golf course are a spa and a well-equipped ďŹ tness centre. If I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wanted to go golďŹ ng, I could have ridden a horse along the beach, taken a lesson in the boxing ring, played tennis, swum in the ocean (or in one of the propertyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many large pools), gone ďŹ shing, done some island-hopping on a chartered yacht, gone scuba diving or sped around on a jet ski. Of course, I did none of these things. All I wanted to do was play golf. As I said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;My name is Edâ&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;?.

While not strictly in the Caribbean, Albany has much in common with those neighbouring islands â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but not the food, for which they are not generally renowned. There are four restaurants on the property, each one different and all, in my opinion, excellent. My favourite was the Vesper Bar&Lounge, on the second ďŹ&#x201A;oor of Albany House, which was featured in the ďŹ lm Casino Royale. There we were served the best stone-crab claws weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d ever had, including those at the world-famous Joeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Stone Crab in Miami. Also in Albany House is Aviva, a ďŹ ne-dining restaurant where, on Saturday nights, a sumptuous roastpig buffet is served on the beach right at the waterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge.

Apart from the four restaurants on the property itself, there are some delightful places nearby, such as Mahogany House, a local spot serving excellent grilled ďŹ sh and a shop selling all sorts of gourmet foods. We also had lunch at one of the restaurants on Arawak Cay, aka

IF I HADNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T WANTED TO GO GOLFING, I COULD HAVE RIDDEN A HORSE ALONG THE BEACH, CHARTERED A YACHT OR GONE SCUBA DIVING â&#x20AC;&#x153;Da Fish Fry,â&#x20AC;? a district in downtown Nassau full of wooden shacks serving local delicacies such as conch salad and fried snapper.

A trip around the island, with its hodgepodge of developments, made me appreciate the architectural design at Albany all the more. It is contemporary, but without the hard edges of some modern resorts. What also struck me is that this is a community within a community, a place where children are provided for just as lavishly as adults, with their own clubhouse and water park.

Thoughtfully, however, there is also a pool and restaurant reserved strictly for those adults who, like us, prefer the peace and quiet of a child-free zone.

Real estate in Albany does not, as you can imagine, come cheap â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but compared to the staggering prices of accommodation in London and New York, the two cities I know best, it is relatively affordable. If I were ready to indulge my addiction to golďŹ ng holidays, this would be an ideal place to buy a home, what with Mr Elsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bear of a golf course and the sun and fun of life in Albany.

Balancing act Sandals Emerald Reef combines total relaxation and challenging golf. Bottom: The Grenadines Estate Golf Club, on Canouan

THE TOP 5 COURSES IN THE CARIBBEAN THE GRENADINES ESTATE GOLF CLUB

PORT ROYAL GOLF COURSE

quarry. Dropping through towering walls

Canouan, The Grenadines

Bermuda

of rock, it is 635 yards long and prepares

Length 6,900 yards, par 72

Length 6,842 yards, par 71

a player for the dramatic back nine, which

Perhaps the most beautiful of all

The islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exclusive, members-only Mid

carve their way through undulating terrain

Caribbean courses, this one, designed by

Ocean Club has been joined in the upper

where exposed limestone rock faces

Jim Fazio, rises dramatically from sea level

echelons of Caribbean golf by Port Royal.

contrast with the lush, rolling fairways.

to the 840ft-high rim of an extinct volcano.

Taking the best features of Robert Trent

Signature hole The 16th. From an

Rich green fairways and hibiscus-lined

Jones Seniorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1970 layout, the course has

elevated tee, you stare down at a green

borders contrast vividly with the cliffs,

been lengthened and strengthened, with

225 yards away, guarded by a bunker

turquoise waters and talcum-white sands

new bunkers, improved greens and

where your only salvation is a grassy

below. Dog-legs and tricky tee-offs make

artiďŹ cial lakes. With Atlantic views from

island carved in the shape of a monkey.

the opening holes quite difďŹ cult. The back

nearly every hole, it remains true to Trent

Details sandylane.com

nine are the most dramatic, with the

Jonesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s philosophy of being enjoyable for

par-four 11th forcing you to drive over

all levels of golfer. Each autumn, Port

SANDALS EMERALD REEF GOLF CLUB

a deep ravine on to an angled fairway.

Royal hosts the Grand Slam of Golf (this

Greater Exuma, the Bahamas

Signature hole The 13th is the one that

year from October 15-16), the culmination

Length 7,200 yards, par 72

will be etched in your memory forever.

of the golďŹ ng calendar, when the major

Designed by Greg Norman, this

Occupying the highest point on the

winners battle it out for bragging rights â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

championship course uses

course, it offers views of Mustique to the

and a US$600,000 (ÂŁ392,000) cheque.

environmentally friendly paspalum grass,

north and Mayreau to the south.

Signature hole The 16th: a 235-yard

its rich green hues a pleasing contrast

Details canouan.com

crescent-shaped par-three with nothing

with turquoise waters and white sand. The

but Atlantic swell between the tee and the

front nine wind through dunes,

TEETH OF THE DOG

pin. One for the camera.

mangroves, lakes and rocky outcrops,

Casa De Campo, Dominican Republic

Details portroyalgolf.bm

while the back nine hug the shore,

Length 7,471 yards, par 72 GREEN MONKEY

a spectacular ocean view. With the trade

best course in the Caribbean. Veteran

Sandy Lane, Barbados

winds playing a part, and some

designer Pete Dyeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s masterpiece put the

Length 7,343 yards, par 72

challenging fairways, the layout

Dominican Republic on the golďŹ ng map in

Masterminded by Tom Fazio, who has

encourages low â&#x20AC;&#x153;bump and runâ&#x20AC;? shots.

1971 and now forms the centrepiece of

been designing world-class courses from

Signature hole The 14th, one of the

a luxury ďŹ ve-star resort. Dye claims the

his Florida base since the 1970s, the

most spectacular tee shots in the region.

design was simple, as â&#x20AC;&#x153;God made seven

Green Monkey zig-zags across a tabletop

Surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic,

holesâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all of which skirt the ocean (more

landscape. Its ďŹ rst few holes are slightly

you are close enough to the ocean to hear

than at Pebble Beach, the legendary

anticlimactic, but the ninth is a glorious

the waves lap the shore as you drive off.

championship course in California). He

par-ďŹ ve plunging 100ft into a man-made

Details sandals.co.uk

only had to come up with another 11. The course took its name from the razor-sharp rocks lining its ocean-front holes, but the dog really begins to bite when the wind picks up off the ocean, with several shots requiring nerve-jangling carries between cliffs. Deep bunkers and fast, contoured greens maintain the challenge when conditions are more benign.

Signature hole The 194-yard par-three

Albany (020 7491 9869, albanybahamas.com) has a range of villas with three to ďŹ ve bedrooms, starting at ÂŁ3,500 per night, including a round of golf and golf-cart rental. British Airways (0844 493 0787, britishairways.com) has return direct ďŹ&#x201A;ights from London Heathrow to Nassau from ÂŁ781.

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culminating on the peninsula with

After 40 years, this still vies for the title of

16th. Perched on a rocky outcrop shaped like a set of snapping jaws, with surf frothing over the rocks, this is the hole that inspired the courseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name.

Details casadecampo.com.do

VIETNAM EASE

ir Nick, please tell us your impressions, four years after you set eyes on this place.”

Faldo is taking questions at the official opening of the golf course he has designed for Banyan Tree’s latest luxury beach resort, halfway up the coast of Vietnam. In rough country north of Danang, the setting is tremendous: impenetrable, mountainous jungle drops steeply to a previously empty two-mile-long beach.

“Brilliant white sands still, as yet, markedly undeveloped”, says the Rough Guide, which may need revising.

Laguna Lang Co is the first course in Hue province, but with 36 holes already well established on the flat coastal strip to the south of Da Nang, on big courses by Greg Norman and Colin Montgomerie, central Vietnam is rapidly acquiring critical mass for golf holidays seasoned with local colour, culture and history.

Vietnam has reached a nice place on its journey from remote to mainstream: visitor-friendly, but not yet touristweary. Gappers and explorers are hurrying there before the rot sets in, and golfers are coming on direct flights to Da Nang from Hong Kong, Seoul and Singapore. The trip from Europe is not exactly a gimme, but makeable.

“The first thing that strikes me is how easy it is,” Faldo replies, to a chorus of groans from an audience of golfers who spent the previous afternoon sweating and swearing their way around his course, hitting balls into paddy fields and palm trees, watching respectable chips and putts roll back down the slope past their feet.

This is not Faldo’s point. “There’s a road through the mountain now,” he says, “and grass! When we started, we cut down trees to make bridges and it took an hour’s hard work to get from the compound to the first tee. We’ve manicured the jungle.”

A dirt track surrounded by a few rice farms is how Faldo’s architect, Paul Jansen, recalls the scene on his arrival 18 months ago. On the first day he missed stepping on a cobra by a few inches, and soon afterwards had work on the project suspended for six weeks when the earth-movers found unexploded bombs.

It has all come together in a great rush, as these things do. After a dry winter, the course still looks rough around the edges, and the same goes for the hotel, with decorators discreetly present and newly-planted palm trees unsteady on their feet, like leggy foals. But there is a great sense of excitement at the arrival of guests, and the business areas of the course – fairway, tees, greens – are already playing well, the greens notably hard, fast and fiendish. In great nick, you might say.

The man himself is no mere figurehead. “I’ve been interested in design since I redrew my home course at Welwyn on a piece of paper to show the committee how they could improve it,” Faldo says.

At Lang Co he left his team in no doubt about what he wanted: green here, tee there, don’t touch those rocks.

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At Laguna Lang Co, Nick Faldoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest course in central Vietnam, Adam Ruck ďŹ nds that beaches, fragrant cuisine and charming female caddies make up for all those balls lost in the rice paddy

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GETTY

Culture, food and golf in one Attractions away from the Laguna Lang Co golf course (above), opened in March by Sir Nick Faldo (right), range from water buffalo and exotic Vietnamese cuisine to Fujian temples in Hoi An (left)

That fairway is too wide: add bunkers for visual impact. As well as working with nature, Faldo enjoys the role of landscape artist, and as a signature quirk insisted on three â&#x20AC;&#x153;chocolate dropâ&#x20AC;? mounds by the green at the short ďŹ fth, to remind us of his three Opens and three Masters titles. In time they may look a little less quirky.

Excited? Of course he is. Faldo may have 15 courses on the go, from Iceland to Cambodia via the Azores, but this one is special. Isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t every new baby? â&#x20AC;&#x153;The latest thing in design is to give the golfer different experiences,â&#x20AC;? he says.

It is this aspect that pleases him most at Laguna Lang Co, and with good reason.

After a couple of water holes we are driving over rice paddy. There are goats and a ďŹ shing punt in the creek at the third, and the greenkeepersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; next headache will be keeping buffalo off the greens after the rice harvest. Faldo takes us through jungle and forest on the way to the beach at the lovely ninth, a short par-four, with the sea shimmering between trees. Rocky outcrops frame the short 11th, an obvious signature â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or, as Faldo prefers it, â&#x20AC;&#x153;postcardâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; hole.

The British pro likes to tease the golfer and present strategic risk/reward challenges, but the fairway is not unreasonably tight. Choose the right tee option for your game and there are no huge carries. The greens are large and, after feedback from the guinea pigs, championship pin positions may be kept for championship days. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t remember playing so many shots in 18 holes and enjoying myself more. That may have something to do with the smiling army of local female caddies. Their understanding of golf strategy and English may be sketchy, but they can rake a bunker, mark a ball and count to 10 (after that, pick up). And in the gentle art of encouragement they could teach the average Scottish caddie a thing or two. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Nice on, sir!â&#x20AC;? exclaims Thao, skipping with delight if I manage to land a ball on the green and, by some miracle, it stays. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sandy par, sir! Amazing!â&#x20AC;? Yes, wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t it?

More often, support takes the form of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sorry, sir!â&#x20AC;? as if Thao were the one who left the 6ft putt criminally short.

If the ocean part of the course seems short-lived, that may be because Banyan Tree bagged the best bit of beach for its hotels, with their horizon pools and beach restaurants. There is nothing much wrong with the main hotel (Angsana) but the Banyan Tree itself is more secluded and stylish, hidden in thick tropical gardens.

Private 19th hole A Lagoon Pool Villa at the Banyan Tree Lang Co, set in tropical gardens alongside the prettiest part of the central coast

VIETNAM HAS TEMPLES, PAGODAS, MARKETS, PLUS SCENTED CUISINE THAT MADE ME WONDER IF I WAS EATING A SPA TREATMENT A change from golf? Temples, pagodas, royal tombs, teeming food markets, ďŹ shing boats on the water at dawn: Vietnam has them all, plus subtly-scented cuisine that sometimes made me wonder if I was eating a spa treatment. Plus, there are plenty of memories of the American War, as it is known. The concrete helicopter silos of Da Nangâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s American airbase line the road. Nearby Marble Mountain, its tunnels once riddled with Vietcong, is now a popular excursion and makes a shapely backdrop to golf at Montgomerie Links. Slice your tee shot at Danang Golf Clubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature hole and you might get

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nine holes, and there are nine more to

White Stone Hot Spring Golf Club

Grand Phnom Penh Golf Club

follow in the next six months. An hourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

This is the newest course on tropical

Designed by Jack Nicklaus and opened

drive from Mumbai, in the foothills of

Hainan Island, set among rolling hills,

in 2011, Grand Phnom Penh sits at the

Kharghar, the course is surrounded

with several holes situated on the

heart of the new city development,

by waterfalls, ponds and streams.

shores of a picturesque reservoir.

just 15 minutes from the airport.

7,137 yards, par 72 (cidcogolfkharghar.

7,011 yards, par 72 (schmidt-curley.

The course is generous from the tee

golfgaga.com). Several airlines fly

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but challenging around the greens,

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with direct flights from Asian hubs.

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7,243 yards, par 72 (grandphnompenh

com and incredibleindia.org

a lucky ricochet off a concrete pillbox. If not, you may need to look for it on China Beach.

The must-do sightseeing trip is the old river port of Hoi An, a short taxi ride from the Da Nang golf courses.

If not a tourist trap, Hoi An is certainly a dedicated excursion town of shops, galleries, restaurants and street vendors; 24-hour dressmakers, river boats great and small, and a weave of bicycle taxis and blaring scooters.

This typical Oriental tumult lights up after dark, with ďŹ reworks and coloured lanterns reďŹ&#x201A;ected in the river.

Back to golf and the long-standing friendly rivalry of Faldo and Norman. At Lang Co we grow tired of being told by seasoned Asian golf-watchers how much we will enjoy playing the Norman course at Da Nang, voted number one in Vietnam last year. The course is part of a familiar style of resort, a gated holiday estate of fairway villas with well-watered lawns and a beach of powdery softness. After three years of play, Normanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s course is mature and we found it in super condition, every one of its holes terriďŹ c. The vegetable pancakes were excellent too, but in our post-mortems we did struggle to remember one hole from another, apart from the short 16th (China Beach), that is: a classic of its kind.

All but three of Normanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 18 (and all 18 of Montgomerieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s) are separated from the shore by a busy main road. The gently rolling landscape of sand and wispy casuarinas, while ideally suited to golf, lacks variety and the visual interest of Lang Co â&#x20AC;&#x201C; its sense of place, in fact.

Lolling in our plunge pool with a Tiger beer in hand, watching other people make a hash of the 17th, we found it hard to escape the conclusion that once again Nick Faldo may have got the better of Greg Norman.

VIETNAM BASICS Vietnam Airlines (vietnamairlines.com) has ďŹ&#x201A;ights from London to

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SINGAPORE

Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City from ÂŁ522 return, and connecting ďŹ&#x201A;ights

Kuala Lumpur Golf & Country Club

com and tourismcambodia.com

The Legends Golf & Country Resort

to Da Nang from ÂŁ100 return. Golf Asian (golfasian.com) is offering

Conveniently located in Sedenak, about

a six-night itinerary similar to Adam Ruckâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s from ÂŁ1,980 per person,

The European Tour travels here for the annual Maybank Malaysian Open, this

INDIA

40 minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; drive from Singapore, the

excluding ďŹ&#x201A;ights. The price includes four nights at the Banyan Tree

year won by Kiradech Aphibarnrat of

Kharghar Valley Golf Course

Legends resort has two courses by

Lang Co (banyantree.com) and two nights at The Ocean Villas,

Thailand. The clubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s two courses, four

Only the second public course in India,

big-name designers. The Jack Nicklaus

Danang (theoceanvillas.com.vn), golf at Laguna Lang Co (lagunalangco.

miles from Kuala Lumpur itself, were

Kharghar Valley opened in 2012 with

course opened in 1997, followed in

com), Danang Golf Club (dananggolfclub.com) and Montgomerie

redesigned in the late 2000s; the West

2009 by Arnold Palmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nine-hole

Links (montgomerielinks.com), and transfers. Tip Get your passport

course (pictured right) is tight and

layout, with its spectacular

stamped before travelling; the visa-on-arrival system is painfully slow.

strategic, while the East course is made

tropical flora and landscaping

THE COURSES AND HOW TO PLAY THEM

up of naturally landscaped parkland.

3,637 yards, par 36 (legends-resort.

Laguna Lang Co (Nick Faldo) 5,236 to 6,958 yards, par 71.

West: 6,952 yards, par 72. East: 6,420

com). Singapore Airlines, Qantas

Danang Golf Club (Greg Norman) 5,564 to 7,190 yards, par 72.

yards, par 71 (klgcc.com). Malaysia

and British Airways all fly direct

Montgomerie Links 5,085 to 7,065 yards, par 72.

Airlines (malaysiaairlines.com) flies to

to Changi Airport from London

Green fees cost 2 million dong (about ÂŁ70). A caddie is compulsory at

Kuala Lumpur from London Heathrow.

Heathrow. Information:

all courses, and the reservation fee is included in the green fee. Tips,

Information: golftourismmalaysia.com

yoursingapore.com

Tom Clarke

expected in US dollars, cost extra. Hire of a golf buggy costs about ÂŁ25 and a good set of clubs about the same. Although the courses are ďŹ&#x201A;at enough to walk, a buggy is a good way to generate a breeze.

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH THE LADIES GOLF CUP 2013

ENTER THE LADIES GOLF CUP AND YOU COULD PLAY FOR ENGLAND

Above, left to right: Chloe Rogers, Nicola Clarke, Ann Hynes and Jayne Errington, in Tommy Hilfiger golfwear, after winning the World Final at La Manga Club (left).

Qualifying events will be played at The Buckinghamshire (below left), Bowood (below) and Brocket Hall (bottom)

The four winners of the amateur tournament, held in Britain, will get to play abroad in the World Final – won this year by England

I

n February, just months after winning a bronze medal at London 2012, Olympic hockey player Chloe Rogers swapped her stick for a set of golf clubs and found herself on the podium once again.

This time, she helped England win the prestigious Ladies Golf Cup World Final at Spain’s La Manga Club, narrowly beating Thailand, with Portugal in third place.

Rogers, who plays off a handicap of four at Braintree Golf Club, was invited to represent Team England after winning the highest number of points at a golf day held at Burhill Golf Club last summer. Team mates Ann Hynes (of Burhill), Jayne Errington (Enmore GC) and Nicola Clarke (Castle Royle GC) won similar events held at Burhill, Moor Park and Brocket Hall respectively.

In the World Final, each nation is represented in four four-balls and points are awarded on a sliding scale, with the top Stableford scorer in each group receiving three points. The England quartet, sponsored by Tommy Hilfiger, Callaway and Golf Queen, finished on 18 points, three ahead of Thailand. It was England’s third successive victory in the tournament.

The Ladies Golf Cup is an amateur golf tournament exclusively for women that launched in Spain and Portugal in 1998 and is now the largest women’s amateur golf event in both countries. In 2010, the Ladies Golf Cup launched for the first time in the UK, combining golf with a fun day out in quintessential “English garden-party” style. Qualifying events take place at prestigious venues in association with a number of luxury brands.

Previous World Finals have taken place at the InterContinental La Torre Golf Resort and La Manga Club, both in Murcia, Spain.

Participating countries in the 2014 final will include England, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Malaysia, the United Arab Emirates, India, Thailand and South Africa.

2013 UK QUALIFYING EVENTS

Final will be awarded to the individual

These will take place at three venues

with the best Stableford points score.

in the south of England:

The events were enjoyed by

REGISTER NOW TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT Places are limited – to register, simply

Thursday, May 9

competitors last year and 2013

log on to ladiesgolfcup.com and click

Bowood Hotel, Spa and Golf Resort,

should be no different as those taking

“register”. For more information,

near Calne, Wiltshire.

part will enjoy an unforgettable

please call 07970 037249 and quote

Monday, June 17

experience at a prestigious golf

“Ladies Golf Cup”.

Brocket Hall Golf Club, Welwyn,

venue in a spectacular setting. The

Hertfordshire.

event is guaranteed to be fun,

which includes 18 holes of golf,

Thursday, July 4

enjoyable and educational. All

food and beverages, a luxurious

The Buckinghamshire, Denham,

competitors will receive a goody

goody bag and a complimentary

Buckinghamshire.

bag on arrival and have the chance

annual subscription to Women

to win a number of prizes provided

& Golf magazine.

FORMAT AND PRIZES The golf format is full handicap

by the event sponsors.

Ben Lambourne, the UK director,

individual Stableford competition.

says: “I have always been

Please note this is not a qualifier for

overwhelmed by the response to

handicap purposes.

the event, and this year is no

There are two categories

outstanding venues which I am

and 19-30 handicap. Prizes will be

sure will only enhance the

awarded to first, second and third

experience for each participant.

place in both categories.

Good luck to all – and, most

represent Team England in the World

Approved by The R&A for the payment of expenses – Rule 4-2g RA/16/2013

different. We are hosting at three

available to play in: 0-18 handicap

A trophy and invitation to

The entry fee is £95 per player,

importantly, enjoy the experience the Ladies Golf Cup has to offer!”

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ULTRATRAVEL PROMOTION

TEE TIME SPA TIME THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL

is a world-renowned golf resort and spa set on 850 acres of breathtaking Scottish countryside conveniently located just one hour from Glasgow International Airport. If you wish to arrive by train, Gleneagles is the only resort in the country with its own train station, located just 2 miles away with a daily train direct from London King’s Cross. Inspired by Scotland’s dramatic natural beauty, the hotel features 232 luxury bedrooms and suites reflective of the property’s rich history and heritage, which dates back to 1924.

The award-winning Spa at Gleneagles by ESPA is a sanctuary within the hotel offering traditional spa therapies along with wellness and alternative therapy treatments such as nutritional advice, osteopathy, naturopathy, acupuncture and personal training.

TEE OFF at the RYDER CUP Since its inception, golf has played a significant role in Gleneagles’ history. Next

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

The Gleneagles Hotel boasts a rich array of outdoor pursuits in the Scottish tradition, including clay target shooting, archery, trout fishing, gundog training and falconry, as well as tennis, swimming, croquet, cycling and pitch and putt. There’s also an equestrian school on the grounds.

Only one hour’s drive from both Edinburgh and Glasgow airport and daily train from London King’s Cross direct to Gleneagles train station.

Three nights from £990 per room based on two people sharing a Sovereign room and including the renowned Gleneagles’ breakfast.

To book your stay call 0800 169 2984 or email resort.sales@gleneagles.com or visit www.gleneagles.com

year it is set to host The 2014 Ryder Cup on The PGA Centenary Course, one of three championship golf courses on the property—which is regarded as one of the finest spectator courses in the world. In addition to the Jack Nicklaus designed PGA Centenary Course, Gleneagles also boasts The King’s and Queen’s Courses, designed by James Braid, a 9-hole par 3 course and The PGA National Golf Academy.

WINE & DINE

From the grand formality of The Strathearn to the bustling vibe of Deseo, from the Michelin Star magnificence of Andrew Fairlie to the clubby ambience of the Clubhouse Bar & Grill, Gleneagles has a restaurant to satisfy all preferences.

TWO STARS AT GLENEAGLES Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s enjoying dinner by Andrew Fairlie, the only chef in Scotland to hold two Michelin stars, or getting to know Nigel, our resident Golden Eagle, a trip to Gleneagles is always a memorable experience.

We do advise advance booking. Nigel is very popular.

To plan your visit please call 0800 169 2984 and quote "Ultratravel"

The Gleneagles Hotel

Internet: www.gleneagles.com Email:resort.sales@gleneagles.com The GLENEAGLES words and the EAGLE device are trademarks

Italian feast Opposite: Costantino Rocca tucks in. Top left: Rocca with Gualtiero Marchesi, the godfather of modern Italian cuisine, whose dishes include squid-ink spaghetti and open ravioli. Marchesiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant is at Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Albereta (right and above right), a hilltop hotel with its own winery, Bellavista (above left, and top), and the Wine Golf Course (left) PHOTOGRAPHS BY JAMES BEDFORD

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Another course conquered

Costantino Rocca, Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest golfer, joins Adam Ruck in Franciacorta for a short round and a very long lunch

LCKI8KI8M<C

C

heers, Adam! Now we forget golf!” Italy’s greatest golfer is in relaxed mode, with wine in hand and lunch on the way. Costantino Rocca normally drinks red but in Franciacorta, Italy’s champagne district in the hills between Lake Como and Verona, our toast is a fizzy white. And our après-golf lunch is no clubhouse buffet, but a feast personally created for the guest of honour by the godfather of modern Italian cuisine, Gualtiero Marchesi. It is a meeting of maestri.

Maestro Marchesi once plied his trade in Milan but fled the city for a quieter life at L’Albereta, a villa-hotel near Lake Iseo, where he has his restaurant and lives in a flat surrounded, as he puts it, by beautiful vineyards and beautiful women. If he were a golfer, he would also have the pleasant fairway and fiendish hazards of Franciacorta – the Wine Golf Course – to entertain and infuriate him. But Marchesi is content to let Maestro Rocca and me pit our widely diverging skills against the works of the black-humoured course-designer Pete Dye, while he prepares the consolation prize.

Franciacorta is less than an hour’s drive – much less, for an Italian – from Bergamo, where Rocca was born 56 years ago in a room overlooking the 10th hole, and where he still lives. He knows this course well and everyone knows him. The Secretary is waiting on the steps, the regional President of golf in all Lombardy has put on a suit, and every member wants a piece of Rocca before teeing up for the midweek Stableford.

Regal of girth and broad of smile, he is middle-aged conviviality personified and has time for everyone. Never was there a more accessible and less self-important sporting hero. What is he doing now? A bit of course design, residential golf clinics – Rocca Golf Ambition – and competitive golf among friends on the Seniors Tour, carrying his own bag and enjoying a glass of wine after the round. This, he says, is the main difference between the Seniors Tour and what the seniors call the Juniors Tour. The juniors also play too slowly and hit a longer ball.

“Young players hit it so far, they never learn to work the ball,” says Rocca, and golf is a poorer game for that.

Coffee and photographs must be taken, wine tasted.

This is the Wine Golf Course after all, its three nine-hole layouts named after wines, and its tee boxes marked out with bottles. Local producers take turns to promote their wines to the affluent membership. It all sounds thoroughly civilised, and quite decadent in a typically Italian way. I suggest that eating and drinking are probably as important as golf in the life of this club.

“Not at all,” says the general manager, Jennifer Allmark, a former LPGA Tour player from Sweden. “Italian golfers are very competitive, and if we don’t organise at least three competitions a week, they start complaining.”

Visitors are welcome to join in.

On which subject, all this conversation is eating into my golf time with Rocca. “What do you want from this?” he asks, as every good professional should.

Help, is the short answer. Without dwelling on the shortcomings of my game, the simple fact is, no aspect of it is fit for purpose. My driving somehow manages to be wild but weak. Long irons I rarely use when sober unless

a missed putt to be excusable, close enough for a two-putt formality and a score which, with a little creative amnesia, can be presented as a par. Ecco!

Thank you Costantino. Where did you say your clinics are held? Here at Franciacorta? Bergamo? “Anywhere!” he says. “The client chooses. I am available!”

I know how this trick is done. The second attempt from the tee is always easier than the first. Also, the miracle cure has a knack of working brilliantly for the duration of the lesson, then gradually its effect wears off, requiring another lesson.

Rocca is a wise old professional, and a few holes is all we have time for.

I have never before played golf with a champion of his standing. Having taken the miracle cure on board and tucked it behind my ear for future use, I am keen to watch him in action, anticipating a master class of deft lobs, miraculous sand saves, and trick shots played backhand. Instead, I am treated to a master class in one straight hit after another. On reaching the green in the recommended number of shots, the putt may go in for a birdie, or it La dolce vita Costantino Rocca (left), regal of girth and broad of smile, pours the fizz may not. I’m not sure this kind of golf would be exciting, but it might be profitable. the ball needs scuttling out from beneath a tree. Any The Rocca swing is a marvel of economy and punchy duffer can manage irons six to nine, but my chipping is timing. “I learned to play quickly as a boy,” he says. “We hopeless. Sometimes it goes left, sometimes right, usually caddies were not allowed to play, so we went out in the wrong. If not, there is always putting, the ultimate dark, running along with a torch, and no practice shots.” humiliation. To put it another way, Costantino, I am not When Rocca made his Ryder Cup debut at the Belfry in much good. I would like to be better, but inexplicably 1993, the coach of coaches, John Jacobs, watched him on I enjoy my golf and am not looking for the sort of teacher the driving range and said he had never seen a better who will show me a drawing board and send me back to swing. Nor did it let him down, but alas the putter did and it. A simple tip to transform my game, that’s all I want. before flying home Rocca had the misfortune to see Rocca selects the short 11th for the start of our lesson; himself pictured on front pages as The Man Who Lost the an easy eight-iron shot over water to a broad apron Ryder Cup. “I didn’t,” he says simply. “The team lost.” framed by autumn foliage, against a backdrop of tawny And so to lunch. Marchesi’s first creation is hillsides dotted with gracious villas. A flick with a wedge a dazzling seafood splatter inspired by Jackson Pollock. sends his ball high into the sky, where in the morning sun Melt-in-the-mouth steak tartare follows, with a crunch topping, and then… da-dah!… Marchesi’s signature gold-leaf risotto. It is one of those performance meals where each course comes on a presentation dish that does the round of the table, everyone helping themselves to a polite amount with the result that the plate still has I lose sight of it. “Where did that go?” Rocca looks plenty on it at the end of the circuit. One of Marchesi’s surprised that I need to ask. Heart of the green, of course. beautiful women comes to take it away, but Rocca calls This is not a difficult shot. The club dignitaries who have motored down to this tee in a caravan of golf buggies her back. “I am sorry, but we can’t leave food by Marchesi on the plate.” He cleans the dishes so are all willing me to succeed – who knows, perhaps even thoroughly they hardly need washing up. to make birdie, or a hole in one. The ball skims across the Of course we do not forget golf, but relive the water like one of Barnes Wallis’s bouncing bombs, highlights of Rocca’s career. With his five European Tour scattering bird life. Some lakes of my acquaintance pop victories and three Ryder Cups – played 11 matches, won the ball up on to the green with a lucky ricochet. But Pete six – he has every reason to look back with satisfaction.

Dye has anticipated the low skimmer and placed But all is not sunshine and roses in the Rocca garden. a decorative gondola in the water, moored to the bank. My He is surprised, not to say hurt, that he has not been ball torpedoes it amidships with a loud clang, and sinks. considered as a Ryder Cup vice-captain. With the Molinari There must be a drop zone somewhere, I suggest, but brothers in the frame and no doubt soon to be joined by Rocca will allow no such easy escape from the gallery.

Manassero, would it not make sense to have an Italian “Play another,” he says cruelly, fetching a ball from his among the greenside cheerleaders and locker-room bag and placing it between my feet, at least six inches motivators? Who is the only man to have beaten Tiger from where I would tee it up. “You are standing in the Woods in Ryder Cup singles? Rocca. Four and two, at wrong place, so you are not hitting it correctly. Now try.”

Valderrama in 1997, should we need reminding.

I can hardly complain that the coaching is too technical.

His defining moment was the 1995 Open at St This time my ball – his ball, that is, struck by me – Andrews, when he duffed a tiny chip in the most takes the aerial route to the green, where it comes to rest embarrassing way, then holed an outrageous putt to tie. in almost the perfect spot: far enough from the hole for

‘WE CADDIES WEREN’T ALLOWED TO PLAY, SO WE WENT AT NIGHT, RUNNING ALONG WITH A TORCH’

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Who can forget the sight of him kneeling in the Valley of Sin, arms raised in an ecstatic salute to the Almighty?

John Daly may have won the play-off, but the day belonged to Rocca. “I am the most famous loser!” he declares cheerfully. Challenge this by citing the example of Jean van de Velde at Carnoustie, and a rare cloud crosses the Rocca countenance. “Not the same. Not at all,” he says. “My moment at St Andrews was a triumph, not like stupidly throwing away the Open.”

All good things end, and lunch at Marchesi’s is no exception. My remaining time in Italy is earmarked for playing at as many courses as daylight hours permit. The Lakes offer plenty of choice: this is the nation’s golfing heartland, easily reached from the belt of industrial cities stretched out from Turin to Venice. Bogogno, by Robert von Hagge, offers 36 holes of championship challenge and Monte Rosa views. Castelconturbia (also 36 holes) is Milan’s most prestigious course. For a more traditional feel, I am tempted by Varese, with its monastery clubhouse, or Menaggio. Rocca suggests Gardagolf for mountain scenery. Before my flight out of Malpensa there may be time for a swift nine at Le Robinie, by Nicklaus.

On reflection, however, I decide to stay where I am.

Sublime hotel, fine golf course… why rush? Franciacorta is not Pete Dye’s most flashy creation, but it betrays the signature of an architect who has studied the landscape, fallen in love with it and designed a course that shows it off, with never a dull hole. I leave my bag at the club between rounds and consider pedalling back and forth on

MY BALL SKIMS ACROSS THE WATER LIKE A BOUNCING BOMB, SCATTERING BIRD LIFE

GETTY

a bicycle borrowed from the hotel – but the driver of its shuttle bus is too attentive. The new stance may not win me the midweek Stableford, but it does help.

Time must be found for a tour of L’Albereta’s vineyards and its wine house, Bellavista, and the beautiful therapists will not be denied. I need to understand that this is no mere spa hotel with the usual offering of steam, cream and pressed flesh, but a serious medical facility. For what?

“That depends: we must assess you,” says a doctor in a white coat who sits me down in front of a computer to which I am wired via a clamp on my head and a metal grip in each hand. “Just look at the screen for 10 minutes without going to sleep,” she says. Time weighs heavily on the eyelids. Fifteen seconds of tulips, followed by autumn leaves, tropical island, Saharan dunes, snowy wastes… then the tulips and autumn leaves come round again.

I am roused by the noise of a printer spewing out reams of incomprehensible bar charts and percentages.

These give the doctor all she needs to pronouce on the state of my energy channels and suggest a course of treatment, according to a system devised by Henri Chenot of Merano, who bases his ideas on Chinese principles loosely related to acupuncture.

Thank goodness, my energy channels are not in bad shape. “There is just one block,” says the doctor, “in the left part of your brain, which is usually related to work.

I don’t know what it is, your work, but there is something here which indicates tiredness and stress.”

Well, doctor, it’s true my work can be tiring, and a little stressful at times. But unfortunately, someone has to do it.

Contact Rocca Golf Ambition (0039 334 822 1911, roccagolf ambition.com) for details of clinics with Costantino Rocca.

L’Albereta (0039 030 776 0550, albereta.it) offers a four-night “golf vitalité” package for €1,100 (£950) per person, b&b.

The price includes two days of golf at Franciacorta and either Bergamo or Gardagolf, spa treatments and aqua fitness sessions. Momentum Golf Italia (020 7371 9111, golfitalia. co.uk) arranges à la carte golf breaks in all regions of Italy.

LCKI8KI8M<C

MY TOP10 ITALIAN COURSES

Costantino Rocca describes his favourite places to play on home soil

NORTH AND LAKES

SOUTH

ALBERONI It’s surprising to find

SAN DOMENICO This is the

golf in Venice, but the Lido has

best of Puglia’s courses – wide

a lovely course (pictured below)

open and often windy, with

tucked away inside the walls of

a beautiful hotel, the Masseria

an old fortress. Playing here

San Domenico, among the olive

feels like entering a secret

groves nearby. People come

garden and there are some

to Puglia to enjoy the local food,

strong holes – with plenty of

notably the pesto, and escape

water, naturally. Most famous

the northern winter. It’s a great

is the 9th, a blind par-three

choice for golfers, too, with

known in the past for its many

a beautiful clubhouse. Just

holes-in-one, assisted by the

the place for a Rocca Golf

caddie’s boot!

Ambition winter clinic!

6,039m (6,604 yards), par 72;

FRANCIACORTA The Wine Golf

to qualifying school – just as

6,388m, par 72; €95

€80/£70 (circologolfvenezia.it).

Course (above) is not the

I did. It’s a demanding layout,

(golfpuglia.it).

All lengths are from back tees;

longest, but it has the subtlety

especially since they added

green fees are for weekdays.

of a fine wine and I always look

800m as part of Rome’s bid

SARDINIA

forward to a game here – and

for the 2020 Olympics. For

PEVERO Take a lot of balls to

a sociable drink. Brut/Saten [the

holiday golf, I recommend

this spectacular Robert Trent

names of two of the three

Castelgandolfo, set in an extinct

Jones course on the fashionable

layouts] is the usual way to play

volcanic crater in the Frascati

Costa Smeralda. The fairway is

18 of the 27 holes. With

hills, overlooked by the Pope’s

not very wide and if you miss it,

L’Albereta hotel and Marchesi’s

summer residence. If he wanted

you are in the macchia. The

restaurant nearby, this is how to

to take up the game, he would

wind always blows hard here,

enjoy golf and la dolce vita.

have a beautiful course in his

and the same is true across the

5,921m, par 73; €50

back yard. The club has

water at Sperone (Corsica),

(franciacortagolfclub.com).

accommodation and a good

where I also love to play.

restaurant in the clubhouse,

6,150m, par 72; €90 (golfclubpevero.net).

BERGAMO L’Albenza is my home course and I never tire of it, because the holes are all

MENAGGIO This is the oldest

a 17th-century palazzo.

different and you have to “work”

of the courses in the Lakes, with

6,205m, par 72; €65

the ball. Of the three nine-hole

great views of Lake Como and

(countryclubcastelgandolfo.it).

courses, Blue and Yellow is the

the mountains, a traditional

IL PICCIOLO I am designing

classic round, used for the

atmosphere and, for those very

a new course near Taormina

Italian Open in 1996. It would

rare wet-weather days,

right now, but progress has

have been nice to win, but 20th

a famous library of golf

been held up by a combination

place paid for a few evenings

literature. The course may not

of bad weather and Sicilian

at my favourite restaurant in

be long but it is quite tight, so

attitude. Until that is finished,

the old city, Da Mimmo.

make sure you play straight.

my favourite Sicilian course is

6,068m, par 72; €55

Enter one of the competitions

the original one, on a country

(golfbergamo.it).

and you might find yourself

SICILY

estate near Linguaglossa on the

playing with George Clooney,

TUSCANY

shoulder of Etna, with the

BIELLA A really tough course,

who has a house nearby and

ARGENTARIO This new resort

smoking volcano always in view.

and one of the very best in Italy,

is not a bad golfer.

(above) in the Maremma offers

There is a new resort hotel

at the foot of the Alps between

5,476m, par 70; €65

luxury accommodation paired

beside the course, but I prefer

Turin and Valle d’Aosta. If you

(menaggio.it).

with coastal golf. They say the

the “dormy house” or foresteria

prevailing style is minimalist

solution, staying in the

don’t score well, never mind: truffles and mushrooms are on

ROME

chic, but there is nothing

clubhouse – good food and

the menu in this region. Enjoy!

CASTELGANDALFO Olgiata,

minimalist about the bill.

a friendly atmosphere.

6,497m, par 73; €70

rather than this course, is where

6,218m, par 71; €70

5,881m, par 72; €80

(golfclubbiella.it).

aspiring Italian professionals go

(argentariogolfresortspa.it).

(ilpicciologolf.com).

Defining moment Costantino Rocca kneels in the Valley of Sin at St Andrews, after holing a 60ft putt to force a play-off in the 1995 Open

ULTRATRAVEL SUMMER ISSUE

YOUR GUIDE TO HEAVEN ON WATER

OUT ON 1/6/2013 LCKI8KI8M<C

S

PLAYING THE DUNHILL LINKS WITH THE PROS IN SCOTLAND, THE HOME OF GOLF, WAS PRETTY SPECIAL

ir Steve Redgrave won his

ďŹ rst Olympic gold medal in 1984, and went on to win four more in 1988, 1992, 1996 and 2000. The 6ft 4in rower â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who was on the committee that steered London 2012â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s successful bid, and carried the torch into the Olympic Stadium â&#x20AC;&#x201C; was Britainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Greatest Olympian until his gold-medal tally was surpassed by Sir Chris Hoy last year.

How many holidays do you take?

Two or three, one of which will be skiing. When I was training, we couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go far, so we would usually head to the Three Valleys. Now we enjoy exploring more: Canada, Switzerland, Australia, America. Of all of us, my wife is the best skiier, although I have now got my Basi Level 1 ski instructorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s certiďŹ cate. My kids are pretty good too: one daughter does British schoolgirlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; racing; the other loves moguls; and my son snowboards.

Favourite spots for a summer break?

The girls all like sunshine, so we try and do at least one trip somewhere hot. We went to Tenerife last year, but my son and I were bored out of our minds. When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in a city, the idea of a beach holiday sounds good, but after a few WARREN LITTLE/GETTY

days it is usually pretty dull. We loved the Four Seasons Tented Camp in Chiang Rai, with its elephants, where they teach you to be a mahout. If I had my way, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d go on more golďŹ ng holidays, but the family arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t as keen.

TRAVELLING LIFE Sir Steve Redgrave The 6ft 4in Olympic rower on short beds, long par-threes, playing golf on safari and learning to ride an elephant

Where did you take a golf holiday?

Croatia, run by Luka Grubor, who used to row with

pros in the home of golf is pretty special. I went

The roughest trip youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been on?

The Legend Golf & Safari Resort in South Africa.

me. I rarely holiday on a boat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; although Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve done

to Skibo Castle once, for the Longest Golf Day, in

A camping holiday in northern France, with

It was the perfect place because my wife and

some kayaking, which I enjoy because youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re

which you play four rounds in a day. We arrived at

a girlfriend back the 1980s. We caught the train

daughters could go on safari every day, and

going forwards rather than backwards.

midnight, so we only had about ďŹ ve hours in the

on a whim, and when we got there, our tent

my son and I could play golf. The courses were

Do you travel light?

room â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a shame, as it was glorious, with a four-

had most of its ropes and pegs missing. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

amazing: one is a Pinholders Par 3, in which

Reasonably, although my wife would say I take too

poster bed and every comfort we could wish for.

say we acquired them as we wentâ&#x20AC;Ś

they have replicated iconic par-threes from

many clothes. We generally use bags given to us

What luxuries do you like when you travel?

Who do you book with?

all over the world, which is fun. And the other

during various Olympics; the one for Sydney was

The older I get, the more important beds are.

DialAFlight in Manchester, whose people are

is the challenging Signature Course, a par 72,

massive â&#x20AC;&#x201C; if you ďŹ ll it, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re miles overweight.

Being very tall, I hate a bed with ends on it. I have

brilliant and know all the best deals. When

designed by 18 of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest players.

Your favourite city for a weekend away?

spent a lifetime trying to sleep with my feet

I ďŹ&#x201A;ew to New Zealand, a guy called Dale found

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so challenging about it?

We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do many because my wife, the Olympic

hanging over the end. Now, even if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fantastic

me a ďŹ rst-class cabin on Emirates for about

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not just one of the longest courses in the

team doctor, goes on lots of training camps and

room, if the bed is short or has a footboard at

ÂŁ300 more than a business-class ďŹ&#x201A;atbed. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve

world, at 4.18 miles, but has the most incredible

I look after the family. I love Sydney, because

the end, the mattress goes on the ďŹ&#x201A;oor.

used them ever since.

19th hole, called The Extreme 19th: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

although itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a city, it feels intimate. On our last

Annoyances away from home?

Was that the best seat youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever had?

longest and highest par-three, and the tee-off

visit we rented a lovely house in Darling Harbour.

Excessive service. I like simple, good service, not

DeďŹ nitely. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on the top of the double-decker,

(on top of a mountain) can only be reached by

The most romantic hotel youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve stayed at?

people in your face who ask all the time whether

and you have a little cabin to yourself for

helicopter. Looking down is pretty daunting: the

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not a real romantic but I love the Hotel Eiger

you are happy. If Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not, I will let them know.

24 hours. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a bit weird at ďŹ rst, but after that

green, in the shape of Africa, is not just 1,184ft

in MĂźrren, Switzerland, where weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been for the

Do you like adventure holidays?

itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just you and the sky.

from the edge of the mountain but 1,312ft down.

past two years for the Inferno, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest

Not really. However, when we were the ďŹ rst team

And the best airline?

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s windy, too â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and I am not keen on heights!

downhill ski race. From our room, we could see

into South Africa after the end of apartheid, we

BA, because they have priority landing in London.

Where will your next holiday be?

the far side of the valley and the Eiger. Stunning.

did a lot of pretty tough walking: ďŹ ve days in the

Favourite shopping spot abroad?

The Seychelles. On holiday, I want sunshine, blue

Favourite place to stay in Britain?

Drakensberg Mountains followed by a few days

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have one. With three women in my family,

skies and some action; I like to be hands-on. One

The Old Course Hotel in St Andrews, Scotland,

10,000ft above sea level, then down into a mine

I avoid it as much as I can.

of our best trips was sailing in a ďŹ&#x201A;otilla with Sail

mainly because playing the Dunhill Links with the

10,000ft underground. That got us pretty ďŹ t.

Interview by Lisa Grainger

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