Ultratravel Spring 2015

ultratravel The Telegraph

yo u r g u i d e t o h e av e n o n e a r t h S P r i n g 2 0 1 5

CoLoMBIA’s GOLDEN AGE

A PASSAGE TO PERSIA All aboard the first luxury train into Iran 38

TRANSATLANTIC TALES Cunard celebrates its 175th anniversary in our special section 48

VIENNESE WHIRL The reinvention of Austria’s ultratravel grande dame 68

The inspiraTion for your Jumeirah experience everywhere Creating the world’s most luxurious hotel made us think differently.

Find your Jumeirah experience at jumeirah.com/experiences

The BlueprinT

. . . T HA T C A N ’T B E I M I T A T ED – ON L Y EXP E R I E N C E D !

N EC KER ISLAND British Virgin Islands

M A HA L I M ZU RI Kenya

KA SB A H TA M A D O T Morocco

T H E L OD G E Switzerland

ULUSAB A South Africa

M O N T RO CH E L LE South Africa

TH E RO O F GA RD E N S United Kingdom

N E C K E R BE L L E British Virgin Islands

Get to know Virgin Limited Edition, Sir Richard Branson’s extraordinary collection of private retreats. From one of the world’s most exclusive private islands to thrilling safaris via a magical Moroccan kasbah, each location is designed to be your home away from home. This is your vacation with added personality!

Reservations: +44 (0)208 600 0430 enquiries@virginlimitededition.com www.virginlimitededition.com

Ciragan Palace Kempinski

Hotel CafĂŠ Royal

Omni Scottsdale Resort & Spa at Montelucia

Grace Santorini

Portrait Roma

Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort

Introducing the Ultratravel Collection Experience the ultimate in luxury travel

Alila Villas Uluwatu

Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa

The Leela Palace Udaipur

Corinthia Hotel Budapest

The Westbury Hotel

Huvafen Fushi, a Per AQUUM Resort

Ultratravel Collection brings together some of the world’s most luxurious and iconic hotels, with every one being a member of the award winning loyalty programme, DISCOVERY. Discover the collection at ultratravelcollection.com

contents Spring 2015

38

27 27

68 Regulars 13 Editor’s letter Charles Starmer-Smith on new frontiers, both at Ultratravel and in countries such as Colombia and Iran 14 The next big thing Why cities are going wild; spas turn up the luxury; hot new hotels; the world’s biggest airport terminal 19 Ultra experts Fashion on the run; travel accessories; celestial watches; gadgets for water babies; spring-fever gems 29 Upfront John Simpson recollects a trip to the ancient Afghan mine whose lapis lazuli coloured Tutankhamen’s tomb 30 Mr and Mrs Piers Morgan and Celia Walden dream of the ultimate weekend away from each other 32 Aficionado The musician and producer Dave Stewart on favourite hotspots, from Rio for music to Moffatt for toffee 87 Intelligence An exclusive look inside Jaipur’s oldest palace; port masterclass; safari style; the app that helps park the car

87

21

90 Travelling life Celia Imrie on eccentricity, Indian curry breakfasts, and pretending to be Ingrid Bergman

Features 34 Top toy What do you get in the superyacht world for a million dollars a week? Nigel Tisdall steps aboard Solandge 38 Persian pearls Jeremy Seal uncovers an unexpectedly welcoming world on the first luxury sleeper train into Iran 46 Big blue In the first of a series on the most glamorous islands, Charles Starmer-Smith surveys Mustique 48 Stormy seas in a 12-page guide, in association with Cunard, Michael Kerr looks back at the highs and lows of the company that has sailed the Atlantic for 175 years; Richard Grant selects his top cocktail spots in New York 60 Gold blend Colombia was once best known for its

CHRIS CALDICOTT

coffee. Today, says Chris Moss, it’s chic hotels and chefs

80

68 Oh, Vienna! Austria’s historical facades mask a city with a youthful heart. Stephanie Rafanelli feels its beat 76 Home game Lisa Grainger uncovers four South African houses for a hedonistic bush and beach holiday 80 Good sport Pippa Middleton sails, skis, steams – and even catches a cod in the fjords of Western Norway

46

© Telegraph Media Group Limited 2015. Published by TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, and printed by Polestar UK Limited.

Colour reproduction by groupfmg.com. Not to be sold separately from The Daily Telegraph. Ultratravel is a registered trademark licensed to The Daily Telegraph by PGP Media Limited

ultratravel 11

march 14 2015

Spring awakening i was not born the last time a luxury train entered iran. Some 36 years later, Jeremy Seal was on board for the inaugural journey - and judging by his evocative account, it has been worth the wait.

Cappadocia, Shiraz, persepolis, Tehran… Even their names make the ticker beat a little quicker. This is what Ultratravel is all about. We watch Colombia enjoy its moment in the sun and Vienna dance to a new modern tune, fit from sun-drenched South Africa to snowy norway, and trial new York’s fnest cocktail bars. And did i mention the superyacht?

Editor

Contributors CELIA IMRIE

RICHARD GRANT

cOVeR cReDIT The lobby of Hotel Sofitel Legend Santa Clara in Cartagena photographed by Christopher Testani

FOR THE LATEST IN LUXURY TRAvEL telegraph.co.uk/ luxury

India has played a big part in the life of the British actress; most recently she was in Udaipur and Jaipur to filmThe Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. Between filming she found time to write her first novel, Not Quite Nice, set in Nice, where she has a home.

An author and regular contributor to Al Jazeera America, Grant lives in Mississippi: one of his favourite places, along with the northern Rocky Mountains and the Namib Desert. He plans to go to Abruzzo this summer and attend a festival of snakes.

STEPHANIE RAFANELLI

There are few things that don’t interest the former features director of Harper’s Bazaar, who has written and made films about subjects ranging from the Sicilian Mafia to Benedictine nuns - and, for us, Vienna. Her next adventure will be in the tropical archipelago of Okinawa in southern Japan.

JEREMY SEAL

The travel writer, who takes a train to Iran for this issue, is an expert on Turkey – his books on the country include A Fez of the Heart.

In summer he hopes to explore Gokceada and Bozcaada, the only two Turkish islands in the Aegean.

PIPPA MIDDLETON

The keen globetrotter plans next to go to Tanzania to climb Mt Kilimanjaro. “I love hiking and adventure,” she says. “There’s nothing more liberating than being in the mountains and setting yourself a challenge.” Her mission for Ultratravel?

To hike, ski and fish in Norway.

ultratravel

Editor Charles Starmer-Smith Creative director Johnny Morris Deputy editor Lisa Grainger Photography editor Joe Plimmer Contributing editor John O’Ceallaigh Sub editor Kate Quill Executive publisher for Ultratravel Limited Nick Perry Publisher Toby Moore Advertising inquiries 07768 106322 (Nick Perry) 020 7931 3039 (Chelsea Bradbury) Ultratravel, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT Twitter @TeleLuxTravel

ultratravel 13

4corners; Arup

NEW YORK

PARIS

TEMPERATURE CONTROL Inventive architects aim to introduce more greenery into cities to make them more environmentally friendly.

Main image: Vincent Callebaut’s futuristic vision for Paris; top, The High Line in New York; Thomas Heatherwick’s planned Garden Bridge over the Thames

14 ultratravel

LONDON

garden centres Escalating house prices and increasing

embedded into an old freight rail line.

urban congestion have seen renewed

Now a slender but fecund artery

debates about the development of

abundant with flowers, it attracts

“garden cities”, but they have scant hope

millions of visitors each year.

of luring the masses to the countryside.

It is hoped that the pedestrianised

Today 54 per cent of the world’s

Garden Bridge (gardenbridgetrust.org)

population lives in urban areas, and the

in London will meet with an equally

UN expects that figure to increase to

enthusiastic response. Due to open

66 per cent by 2050.

in 2018 and designed by Thomas

Perhaps it’s better, then, to consider

Heatherwick, it will stretch from Temple

ways in which nature can be brought in

to the Southbank, nurturing a swath of

to our man-made environments, to

trees and shrubbery above the Thames.

beautify otherwise dreary settings.

Vincent Callebaut Architecture

Ingenuity is on show in Milan, too, where the Stefano Boeri-designed Bosco

(vincent.callebaut.org) in Paris is on

Verticale skyscrapers have created a

the case. In response to the city’s

vertical forest. The reinforced balconies

Climate Energy Plan, which aims to

that extend from each of the two

reduce the city’s greenhouse gas

residential blocks can hold up to 900

emissions by 75 per cent before 2050,

trees and 2,000 plants; astonishingly,

the firm has suggested that almost every

the plant life in each building is

surface of the city is carpeted in

equivalent to what would be found in a

greenery. It’s an audacious proposition

1.7-acre forest.

that radically alters the look of one

In the city of Taichung, the proposed

of the world’s most elegant cities.

Taiwan Tower could be even more

But with climate change a concern

dramatic. Comprising a series of tree

and significant population expansion

trunk-inspired rods which stretch 985ft

a near certainty, it might just help

high, the tower would feature parkland

Parisians breathe more easily.

at its peak and has been promoted as

New York’s recently completed

the “Eiffel Tower of the East”. Taichung’s

High Line (thehighline.org) shows how

incumbent mayor, however, has

successful such a green project can be.

expressed concern over mounting

A 1.45-mile-long park, it has been

costs, so its future is uncertain.

the next BIG THING

John O’Ceallaigh reports on the best in luxury travel, from visionary green buildings to the hottest new hotels and spas

ultratravel 15

the next BIG THING In THerapy Four Seasons Chiang Mai, where guests are taught how to do massages back at home

D e si g n BUZZ With the Milan Expo (expo2015.org) commencing on May 1, expect healthy debate over which nation has developed the most impressive pavilion.

Inspired by this year’s theme “Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life”, the United Kingdom’s entry, designed by Wolfgang Buttress and conceived as a tribute to the bee, is, of course, a marvel. But, lest we be accused of bias, France’s submission is also worthy of praise. This is a vast wooden structure, with an

t he g e n t l e toUCh

interior inspired by the country’s covered markets and its rolling rural

At luxury travel fairs all over the world,

tackle modern ailments. Flick a switch and

Sha Wellness Clinic (shawellness clinic.com)

hillsides. Impressive, too, is the UAE’s

hoteliers are focusing their attention on spas.

the room, which has copper plates layered

in Alicante, Spain. If offers a curative

submission, designed by Foster &

Why? Because industry experts expect

within its walls, will go off-grid, blocking WiFi

programme using stem cells taken from the

Partners, above. Tickets for the Expo are

90 per cent of luxury travel bookings by

signals and allowing the guest some respite

patient’s adipose tissue or bone marrow.

now on sale, with prices discounted

2040 to incorporate an element of health

from digital distractions.

and well-being. Among the best new spas is

Should that sound too serious, Four

The BodyHoliday LeSport (thebody

Seasons Chiang Mai (fourseasons.com)

the Oetker Collection’s Villa Stéphanie

holiday.com) in St Lucia takes a different

in Thailand has a simple way of ensuring its

(villastephanie.com), which opened in January

approach to guests’ needs. The resort now

guests’ long-term relaxation. New Spa 101

and is beside its Brenners Park Hotel in

offers DNA tests to establish an individual’s

sessions will see skilled therapists teach

Baden-Baden, Germany. The complex has a

body type, dietary needs and potential future

couples how to administer massages and

medical facility with doctors and therapists

ailments, and form the basis of a forward-

cleansing wraps and scrubs at home, so they

providing treatments and personalised fitness

thinking treatment programme. A scientific

can remain relaxed and healthy long after

programmes and even a room adapted to

approach is also available at the expanded

their return to reality.

until the event begins. Milan Expo will run until October 31.

new hot el openings

Ter mINal repo rT

Have pity for passengers attempting a last-minute dash to their gate at the Beijing New Airport Terminal Building.

Airport developers ADPI have collaborated with Zaha Hadid to design what will be the world’s largest airport terminal. Their plans show a 7.5 million square foot space that will process 45 million passengers a year – that’s almost 125,000 people a day.

There’s good reason to revisit the world’s great cities, with a spate of important urban hotels opening this month.

In Kyoto, the Luxury Collection’s 39-room Suiran (starwoodhotels. com) stands partly in the grounds of Tenryuji Temple and will be more intimate ryokan – a traditional Japanese inn – than conventional hotel.

Heading west, Taj Dubai (tajhotels.com) opens in the city’s Downtown area and will aim to stand out with lavish features aplenty, not least a 7,320sq ft presidential suite that will occupy the hotel’s entire 35th floor.

Kameha Grand Zürich (kamehagrandzuerich. com), right, will be more restrained, but just a touch. Playful interiors

by Marcel Wanders, a “Space Suite” designed by Michael Najjar and relaxed

service should set it apart from the city’s more conservative hotels.

But it is perhaps New York’s Baccarat Hotel (baccarathotels.com) that will outshine them all.

The first property from the centuries-old French crystal company will have a basement pool that resembles a sunken ballroom, a La Mer spa (the first in America) and

Moma right next door.

Should you wish to leave the crowds behind, however, consider a visit to the Great Barrier Reef’s Lizard Island (lizardisland. com.au) next month.

Reopening after a yearlong renovation and accessible only by chartered plane, the intimate resort offers a private beach for each double room.

lovely bones This summer’s Jurassic World film is set to reignite interest in the great creatures, more than two decades after the original film’s release. Aspiring palaeontologists might consider booking a trip to Alberta before it attracts the masses.

Unknown to many, this region in Western Canada contains the largest concentration of dinosaur fossils in the world and the philip J Currie Dinosaur Museum (curriemuseum.ca) opens in the province at the end of this year. In the interim, the region’s Royal Tyrrell Museum of Palaeontology (tyrrellmuseum.com) remains one of the most comprehensive dinosaur museums, with a collection of more than 157,000 specimens.

16 ultratravel

FOR THE LATEST IN LUXURY TRAvEL telegraph.co.uk / luxury

IS PROUD TO PRESENT

“LUGGAGE SO FINE IT WILL STAND AS A SYMBOL OF EXCELLENCE.” Founder Joseph S. Hartmann, Milwaukee, Wisconsin, 1877

Available Exclusively at Harrods Luxury Luggage, Second Floor

U LT RA FAS H I O N

PHOTOGRAPHED AT ZONA COLONIAL, SANTO DOMINGO, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC BY ADAM PARKER. STYLED BY ARABELLA BOYCE; MODEL; LAKIZA @ PROfILE MODELS. SPECIAL THANKS TO GODOMINICANREPUBLIC.COM

Multicoloured light-wool coat £3,195, Valentino (020 7235 5855; valentino.com).

Red wool-crêpe Eugene top £370, Roland Mouret (020 7518 0700; rolandmouret.com).

White crease-free, breathable, UV-resistant Anya trousers £350, S-Dress (sdress.com).

Handwoven Panama £215, Lock and Co (020 7930 8874; lockhatters.co.uk).

Burgundy calf-leather Crew 25 belt £450 and red calf-leather Lock Me bag £1,910, Louis Vuitton (020 7399 4050; louisvuitton.com).

Lightweight acetate sunglasses £165, Markus Lupfer (markuslupfer.com).

Yellow calf-leather Charlize brogues £199, Pretty Loafers (prettyloafers.com).

CUT A DASH

Flitting between palazzo and plane needn’t be hot work. Pack a pair of crease-resistant white trousers, a bright coat in breathable fabric that works day and night, an airy blouse, and a soft hat and handbag, and feel as cool and comfortable as you look ultratravel 19

CAYMAN BRAC LITTLE CAYMAN GRAND CAYMAN

3 of life’s little luxuries

ca ymanislands.co.uk

In the Cayman Islands, drinks really do grow on trees.

U LTRA TRE ATS

1 Shinola copper bicycle This unique copper-plated bike is an example of the hand-assembled products for which Shinola, based in Detroit, has become renowned. A rust-proof lacquer ensures it keeps its shine, in spring rain or summer sun. (shinola.com; £POA) 2 Jack row Silver pen British designer Jack Row has produced a pen that is not just pleasurable to use, but reliable.

It comes with a flexible titanium or 18ct-gold nib, or a ceramic rollerball, to ensure flawless correspondence on land, sea or air. (jackrow.com; from £995)

1

3 Milli Millu bag A smart bag in every sense, with space for a laptop, separate internal compartments for passport, boarding pass, pens and smartphone, and a zipped front pocket.

Crafted in Spain using fine calf leather, the Midi Zurich has handles designed to fit over the arm of a coat and a reinforced studded base so it retains its shape.

(020 7235 4878; millimillu.com; £475)

7

6 2

4 globe-TroTTer Jewellery caSe Glamorous enough to carry on to a jet, yet sturdy enough to withstand airport knocks, this Globe-Trotter jewellery case is the latest piece in a long line of luggage carried by such clients as Winston Churchill and the Queen.

The watch box holds up to six pieces and the jewellery case features a removeable leather tray with compartments and a mirror.

(020 7529 5950; globetrotter1897.com; £625) 5 williaM & Son caShMere SockS Made with three-ply Scottish cashmere, these cable-knit socks from British brand William & Son provide lightweight insulation, while letting feet breathe, making them ideal for travelling, whatever the weather.

(020 7493 8385; williamandson.com; £195) 6 acqua Di parMa Travel Spray Not only can refills be bought for this calfskin-covered signature scent, but it is the perfect shape and size for transporting in hand luggage. The case also features a snap opening so the fragrance can be applied with a single quick spray. (acquadiparma.com; £82)

5

7 loro piana DoMino SeT This hand-crafted set, made in Sorrento by local artisans, takes the game to a new level of luxury. Each glossy box, whose patina has been achieved by repeated sanding, brushing and polishing, is inlaid with limewood, and each coloured spot is hand-painted, making it a pleasure to look at, as well as to play with.

(020 7499 9300; loropiana.com; £3,235)

4

3

rays of sunshine

Laura Lovett selects bright, bold and beautiful trinkets to make journeys a little more pleasurable ultratravel 21

THE C ROCO COLLECTION P E R F E C T I O N I S A B S O L U T E I N C O N S I S T E N C Y . The exquisite craftmanship of every fold and stitch. The rich lustre of smooth calf beneath the deeply embossed Croco print. Each wallet and purse a testament to timeless elegance.

Yet, as no two panels cut can ever be alike, sameness is rendered an impossibility.

E T TI N G E R. TO E ACH TH EI R OWN .

ETTINGER.CO.UK

U LT RA WATCH E S

Cosmic CREATIONs

“

For anyone who longs for the end of winter, next Friday, March 20, is a date to look forward to: it is the vernal equinox – or the first day of spring. During an equinox, the Sun crosses the celestial equator with the result that, at most points on Earth, the number of hours in the day and night are roughly the same. Since our calculation of time is based on the movement of the planets around the Sun, such heavenly happenings fascinate horologists such as Christiaan van der Klaauw, who makes astronomical clocks.

Van Cleef & Arpels recently commissioned him to develop an animated timepiece displaying the Earth, Sun and five planets in 3D on its dial, all of which replicate the movements of the real things. The result, the Midnight Planétarium, right, contains a mechanical mechanism comprised of 396 tiny parts. You could say it’s out of this world.

Simon de Burton

The Midnight Planétarium from Van Cleef & Arpels costs £172,800 (vancleefarpels.com) 1 The passage of time is marked on the 24-hour dial of the Midnight Planétarium by a pink-gold shooting star that orbits the edge of a series of concentric discs driven by the self-winding movement. The star takes a day and a night to complete a full circuit.

3 The 1.7in pink-gold case features a rotating bezel, which can be used to select special dates by positioning the red triangle against a graduated calendar. On the chosen date, Earth will move directly below the star engraved on the sapphire crystal of the watch.

4 The planets are depicted using a selection of stones which have been sculpted and polished to form perfect spheres – turquoise for Earth, serpentine for Mercury, chloromelanite for Venus, red jasper for Mars, blue agate for Jupiter and sugilite for Saturn.

2 Concentric discs are mounted with tiny representations of Earth, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn. The movement of each planet mirrors its real-life orbit, meaning Saturn will take more than 29 years to make a circuit of the dial.

5 The back of the watch features a transparent sapphire crystal and apertures through which the day, month and year can be seen. The calendar can be set using the push pieces on the left side of the case.

“

three more CeLeStIAL tImepIeCeS HM Perpetual Moon H. Moser is a low-volume maker renowned for the exceptional finish and outward simplicity of its watches, all of which are produced entirely inhouse. Its Perpetual Moon model displays the Moon (as seen from the northern hemisphere) through a large aperture in the dial. The eight recognised astronomical phases are shown by means of a rotating disc which can be set to the exact minute.

H. Moser claims that, if the watch is kept running, the display will remain accurate for more than 1,000 years. £ 27,400 (in rose gold) and £37,800 (in platinum); h-moser.com

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Spherotourbillon Moon Just 75 examples of the Duometre Spherotourbillon Moon will be created, each featuring a platinum case and a movement made from German silver. The Moon phase display, in the form of a lapis lazuli disc decorated with a golden representation of the Moon and stars, is said to be capable of remaining accurate for a remarkable 3,887 years if the watch were to be kept running continuously. The tourbillon cage on the left of the dial is set at the same angle as the Earth – 23 degrees. £175,000; jaeger-lecoultre.com

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Double Moon IWC this year marks the 75th anniversary of its celebrated Portugieser watch – originally made at the behest of two Portuguese watch distributors who saw a market for a wristwatch based on the look of a ship’s chronometer. The finest example from the new range is this perpetual calendar watch which depicts the view of the Moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres simultaneously. £32,500 (in white gold) and £30,900 (in red gold); iwc.com

ultratravel 23

ULTRA Tech

shore things

mark Wilson rounds up the latest gadgets that are as seaworthy as they are stylish

Quadrofoil This futuristic electric hydrofoil has four wing-like legs that lift it out of the water for an ultrasmooth ride. Its silent, emission-free motor means it is allowed in lakes and rivers that are usually not open to motorboats, and it is easy to drive: the craft has an integrated steering sytem, which keeps it stable in the water, while a touchscreen display indicates how much power remains. The limitededition Q2S model has a top speed of 25mph and travels for 60 miles on a single charge (models from €15,000/£11,000; quadrofoil.com).

 aQuanami JeTKayaK Aquanami’s surfboards and kayaks come with a special addition: a four-stroke engine that takes them to speeds of up to 25mph. The JetKayak GT is controlled by a joystick and foot pedals, and comes with two dry-storage compartments, fishing-rod mounting bases and an on-board digital display. Its gas tank holds enough fuel for a two-hour trip at full throttle (from €3,900; 00385 9820 6080; aquanami.eu).

24 ultratravel

Tiwal dinghy  A high-performance inflatable sailing dinghy, the Tiwal 3.2 weighs just 110lb and folds into two bags that will fit in most car boots. It can be assembled in 20 minutes and supports two adults, or one adult with two children. The hull is made from the same tough PVC as rigid motorboats, while the versatile 56sq ft sail (a 75sq ft sail is also available) makes it ideal for both high-speed solo rides and leisurely sails (from €5,490; 0033 6 4332 4937; tiwal.com).

Sony CompaCT TableT The world’s most powerful and lightest waterproof tablet, the 2.5in-thick Z3 Tablet Compact can be submerged in up to 5ft of water for 30 minutes.

Its HD screen and powerful Qualcomm Snapdragon 801 processor make it ideal for games and media, while the battery lasts for 13 hours.

If you are on the same wireless network as a PlayStation 4, it will let you play the same games, too (£299; 0207 365 2413; sony.co.uk).

Tribord eaSybreaTh SnorKel  An innovative full-face snorkel that lets the wearer breathe through both their nose and mouth, the Easybreath also has ventilation valves to ensure it never fogs up. Its shatterproof polycarbonate window allows for 180-degree vision, while the Dry Top snorkel system prevents water entering.

The mask comes in two sizes to ensure a comfortable fit (£35; tribord.com and decathlon.co.uk).

 liQuid image underwaTer maSK and Camera A great alternative to taking a waterproof camera on scubadiving trips, this Hydra Model 305 diving mask has a built-in 720P camera for taking handsfree underwater video. Powered by four AAA batteries, it will last for up to two hours when taking HD video and can also take 12MP still photos. The Hydra is suitable for depths of up to 130ft (£100; liquidimageco.com and wexphotographic.com).

ULTRA G E M S purple rain Cherry blossom is not the only natural attraction in Japan in spring. The Kawachi Fuji Gardens in Kitakyushu are planted with more than 150 wisteria that create long tunnels of purple from April until June

AP

3

1 AMRAPALI neckLAce This kaleidoscopic necklace by the Indian jewellery house is reminiscent of floral carvings found in Mughal palaces.

Floral Necklace in 18-carat yellow gold, with emeralds, rubies and diamonds, £79,000 (020 7584 4433; amrapalijewels.com).

1

Precious petals

2 PIPPA SMALL eARRIngS Pippa Small’s designs reflect a mix of cultural influences. The speckled pink tourmalines in these earrings have an Indian feel, while the daisy motif reflects her country childhood in Wiltshire.

Double-drop daisy earrings in 18-carat yellow gold with pink tourmalines, £2,500 (020 7792 1292; pippasmall.com).

3 Bee gODDeSS eAR cUFFS Talismanic symbolism has inspired the five-point star garland design of these ear cuffs. The star represents harmony – an essential ingredient of enjoyable travels.

Apple Seed ear cuffs in gold and diamonds, £1,900 (020 7730 1234; harrods.com).

The fragile forms and vibrant hues of spring flowers have long inspired jewellers. Pair pretty, delicate designs with light cottons and silks to highlight their natural beauty, says Caragh McKay 2

4 BULgARI eARRIngS These violet and citrine-hued earrings are sensuous, sunny and brimming with the spirit of a Mediterranean garden.

Mediterranean Eden gold earrings with fancy sapphires, amethysts and diamonds, £18,900 (020 7872 9969; bulgari.com).

5 cHAUMeT RIng This cluster of carefully crafted petals is impossibly pretty, with delicate pink gems and stones forming a ring of hydrangea blossoms around the finger.

Hortensia Ring in pink gold, with angel-skin and pink opals, pink tourmalines, brilliantcut pink sapphires and diamonds, £18,630 (0207 495 6303; chaumet.com).

6 DIOR RIng Roses are the favourite flower of this Paris couture house. The gleaming, thorny twist of gems in this ring is inspired by the roses that grow in the Parc de Bagatelle in Paris.

Bagatelle Ring in white gold, with diamonds, tsavorite garnets and emeralds, £19,500 (0207 172 0172; dior.com).

5

3

4

5

6

ultratravel 27

Rush The Team Members of LUX* help people to celebrate life with the most simple, fresh and sensory hospitality in the world.

M AU R I T I U S R E U N I O N M A L D I V E S C H I N A U . A . E ( 2 0 1 6 ) | L U X R E S O R T S. C O M

UP FRO NT

John Simpson

Y

ou’ll have seen them in your highstreet jewellers: blue semi-precious stones the colour of the midday sky at Positano, cheap and often fashioned into usually rather uninspired pendants.

I’m wearing a pair of lapis cuff-links as I write this: lovely things, with specks of pyrite that flash like real gold.

I often wear them to remind me of a spectacular journey I took in Afghanistan some years ago. The one single mine where jewel-quality lapis lazuli comes from, Sar-i-Sang, lies in the farthest reaches of north-eastern Afghanistan, in the inaccessible province of Badakhshan.

Sar-i-Sang has been producing it since long before the start of recorded history.

This is where the lapis for the headdresses of court ladies in Ur came from. The eyeliner for Tutankhamen’s funeral mask originated here as well.

Three thousand years later, monks used ground-up lapis to illustrate their manuscripts, and Michelangelo painted his finest robes with it. I was determined to make a film for television about it.

If you want some idea of what the landscape we travelled through looked like, watch the 1975 John Huston film The Man Who Would Be King, with Michael Caine and Sean Connery. Not that the film was shot in Afghanistan; even in those rather less violent days, that wouldn’t have been possible. But Huston made sure his shots of the high mountains of France and Morocco looked like the real thing.

Getting to the mines from Pakistan was one of the toughest journeys I have made.

The distance on the map seemed short enough – maybe 80 miles – but there were

no roads, and the mountain passes we struggled through were 10,000ft or more high. Our journey lasted for days. Each night we would sleep in village mosques, or lie in the open beside our Russianmade jeeps. The best routes lay along the dry riverbeds, and we crashed over the boulders as best we could.

At last, after a long drive and a cold night sleeping beside a stream, we woke and saw the summit of Sar-i-Sang in its glory. The sun was rising behind it, and the fierce beams sprayed across the morning sky as though preparing us for some transcendent Biblical event. We stood in the cold morning air and gazed at it, silently. Then we shook hands.

The mine’s entrance was 5,000ft above us, a tiny dark blotch against the side of the mountain. Over the centuries several new mines have been opened, but the original, the one from which the lapis for Tutankhamen’s eyebrows came, is still the biggest and most productive after maybe 7,000 years of digging.

Clambering a mile up the vertiginous rocky path was exhausting. I did a lot of it on my hands and knees. But we reached the tunnel’s mouth at last, and in the darkness inside we could see a group of miners, local men aged from their teens to their seventies. When our cameraman switched on his lights we saw they were clustered round the seam of lapis, a blue stripe a foot thick which runs at shoulderheight right through the mountain.

The group had an ancient mechanical drill, and they used it to bore holes in the seam. Communicating with the miners was hard, and we were still filming when

When our cameraman switched on his lights we saw a blue seam of lapis a foot thick which runs at shoulder height right through the mountain

suddenly they all ran for it, shouting incomprehensibly. We were left, and a loud fizzing noise filled the cave: without our realising it, the miners had jammed sticks of dynamite into the holes and lit them.

I was the last out, and threw myself through the mine entrance a second before the explosions started. The entire mountain shook. You could hear the rock-falls deep in the mine, and the machine-gun rattle of the dynamite going off. By brutal tradition, the miners sent the youngest of their group back inside to ensure that all the sticks had gone off. Some minutes later, still scared, he reappeared to tell us we could all go in again. Being the youngest miner was a dodgy job.

The lapis lay in blue heaps on the cave floor, from small flakes to chunks as big as your fist. It’s a quick enough way of digging the stuff out, but it guarantees that there’ll never be any pieces big enough to carve into something significant or valuable. Stupidly wasteful, of course, but that’s what happens in a country without law or much education.

I picked up a piece the size of a bread roll, a Mediterranean dark blue and flashing with golden flecks. It cost me a dollar. In Kabul the price would be $10, in Pakistan $20, and in Paris or London $300.

Such are the economics of an industry older than the rise of cities and empires.

Lapis lazuli gives us our word “azure”; ground into powder in the Middle Ages, it was so precious that illustrators used it almost exclusively for painting the Virgin’s robe. Now we simply turn it into cufflinks and pendants. Our society’s loss, I’d say.

And especially Afghanistan’s, of course. ultratravel 29

illustration romy BlumEl; photo hEnry iddon; turquoisE mountain lapis GEomEtric rinG pippa small

Our globetrotter recalls a journey in Afghanistan to the world’s oldest mine of lapis lazuli – the stone once more precious than gold

What would the ultimate boys’ weekend and girls’ weekend entail? Lots of alcohol, the couple agree, and action of very different kinds HE SAYS

SHE SAYS

ANDREW CROWLEY; DAN GOLDSMITH/SCOPE FEATURES

U

topia, according to the dictionary, is “an imaginary place in which the government, laws and social conditions are perfect”. My own definition would be a very real place with no government, very few laws and social conditions centred solely around alcohol and sport.

I love a good lads’ weekend. Some of my favourite times have been squandered with like-minded males in unlicensed Spanish bullrings, Czechoslovakian shooting ranges (yes, I’ve fired guns), Caribbean nightclubs, Middle Eastern gokart tracks and Las Vegas golf courses.

So what would constitute a perfect 48 hours of testosterone-fuelled delight? Well, it would start with a private jet to Dublin to down a few pints of Guinness and Bushmills whisky chasers at Bono’s hotel, The Clarence.

Then we’d fly to Paris at midnight for the late show at Crazy Horse, purely because at some stage of every stag party in history, someone shouts: “We must see beautiful women take their clothes off!”

At 7am, we’d slither, heavily intoxicated, to New York for a fry-up at Market Diner in Hell’s Kitchen (hash browns to die for), then nip down to Pebble Beach in California for a round of golf – it’s home to the course that Jack Nicklaus said he’d play if he had one round left before he died. Lunch, assuming this jet can travel at twice the speed of Concorde, would be at Club 55 in Saint-Tropez, with my “wife” Paris Hilton (we “got married” for an ITV show), her fun-loving friends, and huge quantities of rosé. Suitably merry, the boys and I would charge to Monaco to break our own banks at the Casino de Monte-Carlo, before sailing a Sunseeker yacht to Barcelona.

There, we’d watch Arsenal slaughter Messi and Co at Camp Nou before enjoying a dégustation dinner at Dos Palillos.

On these trips, sleepin’s cheatin’, so we’d be back on the jet at 4am heading for Jumby Bay in Antigua for some beach cricket as the sun came up on the greatest stretch of sand in the Caribbean. Sunday brunch would be oysters, lobster and Montrachet at Doyles on the beach in Sydney. In the afternoon, we’d languish at Lord’s Cricket Ground in London, watching the Ashes from a private box and drinking vintage Château Latour 1961. By Sunday evening, there would be only one thing on everyone’s minds: curry. So we’d dash to Indian Accent in New Delhi, where they serve the greatest chicken tikka meatballs on earth.

As the clocks turned midnight, it would dawn on us that we needed sleep. Urgently. The most comfortable bed I have ever slept in was at the Beverly Wilshire Hotel in Los Angeles, so we’d head there and collapse. I’d arrive home looking like Evander Holyfield’s right ear after Mike Tyson bit it off.

“Good weekend, dear?” Celia would inquire.

“A bit quiet, but nice to catch up with the lads,” I’d reply.

30 ultratravel

W MR & MRS MORGAN

Being in-spa-cerated for 48 hours with half a dozen females is an unappealing thought. And I have no interest in rampaging round a city, hen-night style, harassing the local men CELIA

Celia Walden was a guest of Terranea Resort, pictured above (001 866 802 8000; terranea.com; doubles from £235)

hen people say the words “girls’ weekend” all I hear are French-tipped nails being drawn slowly across slate. Being in-spa-cerated for 48 hours with half a dozen females — all sipping lemon water in waffle robes and glycolic peels — is an unappealing thought.

And I have no interest in rampaging around a foreign city, hen-night style, harassing the local men while drunk on cucumber-tinis. I prefer to escape with no more than one girlfriend and cover as much ground as possible.

If the laws of time and space could be suspended, my fantasy girls’ weekend would begin at sundown on Friday night on a clifftop in Palos Verdes, California. Terranea Resort – one of my favourite weekend spots in Los Angeles – caters to every “bachelorette” cliché there is (the hot stone massage is the best I’ve had anywhere in the world). But rather than waste a candlelit dinner on my best friend at Bashi (its sushi restaurant), I’d start with half a pound of jumbo shrimp and several large vodka tonics at Nelson’s ocean-side bar, before joining the barefoot hippies dancing around the fire pits to a local band’s cover of Bob Marley’s Could You Be Loved.

Nursing gentle hangovers, my friend and I would wake up on Saturday morning beneath the 17th-century wooden beams of a superior suite at the Hotel Saint Paul in Paris’s Latin Quarter. Shopping is an itch I need to scratch first thing on any weekend away, but not before a large breakfast of scrambled eggs and faisselle au coulis de fruits rouge at Les Editeurs down on the Carrefour de l’Odéon. Once Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno and every antique-print shop on the Rue Jacob had been plundered and we’d had a shot of culture at Delacroix’s studio in Place de Furstenberg, we’d be transported with an I Dream of Jeannie-style nose twitch to Luz de Gas, a floating restaurant in Barcelona harbour for meatballs and sangria. Then we’d be off again to The Tongsai Bay in Koh Samui for an afternoon’s windsurfing. Dinner would be light, taken on the deck of our beachside villa at The Residence Zanzibar. We’d be in bed before midnight, ready for our morning hike in Cinque Terre on the Italian Riviera.

Hiking with no purpose bar calorie-burn is a mug’s game.

Which is why ours would be through Cinque Terre’s five villages and lush vineyards, up the “stairway to heaven” to the Santuario della Madonna di Montenero. Up there, 1,100ft above sea level with uninterrupted views of the region’s 11-mile coastline, we’d have a picnic lunch amid the wild flowers before being whisked back to LA for a late afternoon pepino sour at Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica.

Come to think of it, my girls’ weekend would be pretty similar to a fantasy 48 hours spent with my husband.

Although there would be no dancing. I’ve only once seen him dance and I thought the poor man was having a seizure.

SEVEN SEAS EXPLORER

®

T H E M O S T L U X U R I O U S S H I P E V E R B U I LT ™

arriving in luxury SUMMER 2016

We have a long tradition of being the most inclusive luxury experience and now we are creating something beyond all expectations. We are setting a new standard for luxury. Seven Seas Explorer® will feature sophisticated designer suites, elegant public areas, extensive gourmet dining options, a world-class Spa and a host of amenities all created with the personality, space and elegance of classic and timeless design.

Inaugural Season NOW BOOKING! Request your exclusive launch brochure today CALL: 02380 682154 | VISIT: www.rssc.com/explorer or contact your cruise specialist

THE MOST INCLUSIVE LUXURY EXPERIENCE TM

the AFICIONADO

Dave Stewart The musician and producer gets his inspiration from rural Jamaica, trains, Rio streets and gritty music venues AT HOME IN HIS HOTEL Clockwise from left: Dave Stewart in The Hospital Club in London; Crosby Street Hotel; a guitar from Denmark Street; Hotel Fasano in Rio; La Coupole sign; painting by Kehinde Wiley

B

est known for partnering Annie Lennox in pop-rock band The Eurythmics, the English musician has sold more than 100 million albums, and won numerous Golden Globe and Grammy awards. He is also an author, director, film-maker, photographer, philanthropist and hotelier, who co-owns The Hospital Club (thehospitalclub.com), a private members’ club in Covent Garden, with Paul Allen, the co-founder of Microsoft.

The club, which opened 15 bedrooms in January, is described by Stewart as a “talent brothel: a high-tech place where people from film and theatre, TV and music can work, be creative, and perhaps have a martini and something to eat, and then sleep”. He talks here about how travel has influenced his life.

1

5

Once, you could go to cities and there’d be lots of great music clubs to hear live sounds: smoky places

with chewing gum on the floor and real characters who lived and breathed music.

Sadly, they’ve mostly gone. There are a few left: in london, Ronnie Scott’s and our studio in The Hospital Club, where Radiohead recorded In Rainbows. In New york, Joe’s Pub (publictheater.org), where you can see people from youssou N’Dour to Dolly Parton. and in la, The Hotel Café (hotelcafe.com), which is tiny, but where so

Jamaica is a place where I always feel

many people have played, from mumford

inspired, which is why I have built

& Sons and Katy Perry to leonard Cohen.

a house there, in the hills, far from

6

tourists. I particularly love being there at night, when it’s still warm outside, and all you can hear are the sounds of crickets, the waterfall in the garden and a low thud

As a child, when I first got pocket money, I’d go to the station and ask: ‘Where can I get to with a sixpence?’

I went to Durham first, and then Leeds and York to visit the folk clubs

of music from the village.

2

Travelling to me as a kid in Sunderland meant going two streets, from Barnard Street to

Cleveland Road where the sweet shop was. Then my dad got a car: a Morris Minor, registration WVK417, gun-metal grey with red leather seats. It was a phenomenon. We’d drive to Scotland, usually Dumfriesshire, and stop at Gretna Green, and Moffatt to buy toffee.

3

One of the happiest periods of my life was in Paris as a young man.

I had a tiny apartment and, although

I had to climb seven flights of stairs to get

I like the Soho Hotel in London and Crosby Street Hotel in New York (firmdalehotels.com);

they’ve both got those great industrial-style windows.

7

When I got pocket money at 11 or 12, I’d go to the station and say: “Where can I get to with

a sixpence?” at first it was just Durham.

But as my pocket money went up I’d go to leeds or york to walk around the cathedral and explore and go to folk clubs. It was an exploration not just of a place, but of its music.

8

If I’m going to go to a museum, it will be something modern: the Museum of Modern Art in Paris

(mam.paris.fr) or New York (moma.org).

Or the Gagosian (gagosian.com), White

to it, it was between montparnasse

Cube (whitecube.com) or Whitechapel

and St Germain, just above a fantastic

(whitechapelgallery.org) galleries in

boulangerie. The Eurythmics had become

London. I love new artists, particularly

hugely successful, I was free and single,

Kehinde Wiley (kehindewiley.com).

and within walking distance of la Coupole

I often stay at the Hotel Fasano

9

(fasano.com.br) in Rio. Everything

been there since the 16th century, or the

about it is really cool. I love its

way a city has been laid out. Sometimes

and Café de Flore. I thought I’d died and gone to heaven.

4

Sometimes, the beauty of a city isn’t just in its historic buildings.

It’s in other things, like what you’re

walking on – the cobbles of Paris that have

modern design, the bar, the terrace

it’s good to sit on some steps and take

overlooking Ipanema Beach and the

in the world from that level, too.

views over the pool to the mountains.

sampled them; I used the recording as

10

the basis for a song called Surrender.

Village in New York to Brazil and LA.

Last time I was there, I heard drummers playing out on the street, so I put a microphone out of the window and

32 ultratravel

Denmark Street. Buying guitars is a dangerous habit.

I’ve got about 70, from Mexico and the alamy

It’s got great energy.

In London, I daren’t go near

Interview by Lisa Grainger

W W W. T H O M A S S A B O . C O M / F I N E J E W E L L E R Y

34 ultratravel

the exterior

the owners’ deck

the bridge deCK

Designed by the naval architect Espen Oino, Solandge’s hull won the award for Best Exterior at the 2014 Monaco Yacht Show.

Reserved for the owners’ use, this vast suite has a private spa pool, his and hers bathrooms and a Garden of Eden-themed bedroom decorated with hand-painted murals.

Devoted to wellness, this deck features a 20ft pool with jet-flow current, an indoor-outdoor gym, and a beauty salon and spa with sauna, hammam, hydrotherapy bath and therapist.

FLOAT YOUR BOAT?

The new 280ft Solandge has interiors that Liberace would have loved, a garage of speedboats, a crew of 29 for a dozen guests – and even anti-rattle chandeliers. Nigel Tisdall lives like a billionaire on the $1 million-a-week superyacht

The TOp deck

THE ENGINES

THE TOYS

THE STABILISErS

On the top deck, the Nikki Beach-inspired party zone has a tented day-bed, U-shaped bar, DJ console and karaoke system. At night the Jacuzzi can be covered with a Perspex dance floor.

The yacht can reach speeds of 17 knots, powered by two Cat 3516 engines covered by stainless-steel mufflers that reduce noise. Tanks holding 220,000 litres of fuel allow voyages of up to 6,000 miles.

The tank deck’s tender garage is packed with kit on which to have fun. As well as a Centurion wakesurfing boat, there are three Yamaha WaveRunner jet-skis and Seabob F5s, and a dive centre.

State of the art “zero-speed” stabilisers reduce queasiness, while thrusters allow the boat to remain stationary at sea, anchor-free.

ultratravel 35

STep up Solandge has a grand teak staircase on its stern and an outdoor deck that can host a party of 60.

Below: The Jacuzzi, which becomes a dance floor at night

PHILIP LEE HARVEY

Now this is fun

. It’s yet another sunny day in the Caribbean – blue sky, 27C, gorgeous beaches, divebombing pelicans – and I’m discovering the thrills of wakesurfing with a Centurion Enzo SV244 speedboat. Purpose-built for this exhilarating sport, where you surf behind the boat on a driver-controlled ridge of surf, its most striking feature is an overhead arch with four large speakers out of which are blasting the not-mellow tunes of Daft Punk, Cut Copy and Disclosure. As our party takes turns to slalom over the waves, flip wakeboards and come a glorious cropper (all caught on GoPro, sorry guys), it all seems a deliciously 21st-century version of the age-old pleasure of messing about in boats.

Except that this is just the beginning. The Centurion is merely one in an arsenal of watersports “toys” that can emerge from the twin flip-up doors of the tender garage of the 280ft superyacht Solandge. Launched in October 2013, and based in St Thomas in the US Virgin Islands, this gleaming navy-blue and white six-deck ship of dreams costs a cool $1million (£650,000) to charter for a week. At least.

That’s the price here in the Caribbean; come summer, when Solandge will flit between the glittering parties of Monaco, the hidden coves of Sardinia and the marinas of Montenegro, the price tag is €1million (£743,000). Then there are the extras, such as APA (Advance Provisioning Allowance – allow a third more to cover food, drinks, fuel and port fees), crew gratuities (say 15 per cent), and the DJ you loved in St Barts…

What makes a motor yacht so special only billionaires can afford to join the party? Perfection, prestige, maybe a secret stash of rare Port Ellen whisky (£1,500 a bottle). Conceived by its owners in 2007, Solandge is a yacht which has been planned meticulously, from the walnut, olive ash and masur birch veneers gracing the bedside tables to the wagyu beef fillets awaiting their moment in the galley’s walk-in freezer.

This class act has been master-built by the veteran German shipyard Lürssen, which unveiled the world’s largest private yacht, the 590ft Azzam, in April 2013. The acclaimed Norwegian designer Espen Oino created the dynamic exterior, with its strong silhouette tempered by long fluid lines – but don’t let that fool you into thinking the interiors will be all forest hues and Nordic minimalism.

“This is the owners’ home,” (one of several, for sure) a stewardess explains. “And their style is not for plain Janes.” You could say that. Solandge is a maritime des res decorated without fear of colour, extravagance or selfexpression. Tutankhamen would have felt at home in the glisteningly gold elevator. Catherine the Great would no doubt have appreciated the amber notes in the tank deck head. Liberace would have loved the faux fireplace and Bechstein piano adorning the main salon and Tony Soprano could well have been found lighting a celebratory cigar in the top-deck Jacuzzi. Barbra Streisand might still sing about the 52ft “Tree of Life” installation with its tower of 1,200 Murano glass flowers.

Tutankhamen would have felt at home in the gold elevator, while Tony Soprano would no doubt have lit a celebratory cigar in the top-deck Jacuzzi

As we voyage through the green and Edenic islands of the Caribbean, one thing is clear: aboard Solandge you are looked after in sublime style – thanks to the genial Aussie chef who can cook any dish under the sun, the Californian therapist well versed in cellulite treatments, Espresso Limón slimming oils and pumpkin-spice facials, and the bouncy young staff with Bluetooth earpieces who respond to our every need like a well-drilled team of Grand Prix mechanics.

But that’s just standard superyacht procedure. What makes Solandge stand out, says its British captain, Paul Messenger, is its “exceptionally generous outdoor deck space”: 3, 767sq ft of ultra-smooth, fanatically maintained woodwork. Specifically designed for al fresco living with family and friends, or a floating party for 60 guests should you wish to throw one, its amenities are beyond munificent.

As Noah famously understood, the best things come in twos, and so this opulent ark has both an upstairs and downstairs sauna, an indoor and outdoor cinema, a hydrotherapy bath in the spa and yet another in the ladies bathroom suite of the owners’ deck, this time framed in rose quartz.

Capping all this magnificence is one killer fact: Solandge is only for, at most, 12 guests. Space has long been one definition of luxury. Another is endless possibility, something I only appreciate when I learn that Solandge has a range of 6,000 nautical miles. So yes, we really could set sail for Rio tonight, darling.

Sailing from golden bay to castaway island to picturesque harbour, I also realise how, at this stratospheric price-point, simply having all the bells and whistles isn’t enough. There has to be a sense of magic too, a Gatsby-like allure. For me, this becomes most apparent at night. This is when Solandge’s decks are lit up like some minor outpost of the Milky Way, and the grand teak staircase adorning its stern is so dazzling it could feature in the finale of a Busby Berkeley musical.

Solandge certainly turns heads – as I discover one morning when I decide to swim ashore for a walk on a long and busy beach. Suddenly I realise there are an awful lot of eyes on me as I mosey along its palm-lined sands. “They probably think you’re the owner,” a deckhand explains.

And I have to admit, that’s a rather nice feeling.

Inquiries: solandge.com ultratravel 37

Iran

Previously off-limits to all but the most intrepid travellers, the country has opened its borders for the first time since the 1979 revolution to a luxury sleeper train. Ultratravel joined its inaugural trip words JEREMY SEAL

NEW FRONTIERS Top, from left: an attendant on the Danube Express; drivers at the start of the trip; the train’s bar Left: carved relief on the Apadana Staircase.

Right: Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Isfahan

38 ultratravel

ultratravel 39

Delight has no curfew.

A seven-course meal at midnight on your private veranda is only the beginning of the night.

2014 WINNER

LL BEST SMAINE L E CRUIS

seabourn.co.uk | 0843 373 2000

Ship’s registry: Bahamas. © 2014 Seabourn.

RUSSELL COBB

“You’re wanted for questioning,”

TOP TRACK The route from Hungary to Iran taken by the Danube Express. Below: a band bids farewell

explained Tamas, the carriage attendant, poking his head around the door of my compartment.

At 3am, with close-cropped border guards swarming around our stationary train at Razi, entry point from eastern Turkey for Iran, that sounded ominous. I followed Tamas to an open carriage door, fearful that this sudden plunge into the pages of John Buchan or Eric Ambler might lead to some guardhouse interrogation, only to find a television crew gathered on the platform, and a little red carpet rolled out in my honour.

“You are most welcome to Iran, sir,” said the reporter.

“Would you mind telling us what you are looking forward to during your stay in our country?”

Mind? Some might have cried media intrusion at the uncivilised hour, but I didn’t mind, not when the questioning took place in a starlit, walnut-scented night straight out of a work by Omar Khayyam or Hafez. The lingering romance of Persia, its poets, nightingales and paradise gardens, might even have been the gist of my reply to the television reporter whose interest in a train and its passengers was as understandable as it was affecting. For the appearance of the luxury Danube Express, the first private train to enter the Islamic Republic since the 1979 revolution, was seen as a historic beginning for tourism in a country formerly considered off-limits to all but the most determined travellers.

War in Syria and the rise of Isil has finished tourism across much of an increasingly febrile Middle East; but in Iran, whose ideological opposition to Isil’s murderous Sunni zealots has eased its rapprochement with the West, the opposite has occurred. Forget the downside of this seemingly schizophrenic destination, with its alcohol ban

and rigorously enforced female hijab (headscarf and coat), fulminating ayatollahs, public executions, and secretive nuclear enrichment programme. Here’s a chance, finally, to experience a land that’s as strong on visitor security as it is on cultural heritage, boasting more Unesco World Heritage Sites in the Middle East than anywhere else, among them those fabled gardens, Isfahan’s monumental Imam (formerly Naqsh-e Jahan) Square and the palace complex of the ancient Achaemenids at Persepolis.

With foreign tourist numbers set to double over 2015, however, sanction-struck Iran may struggle to provide.

Expect a welcome that’s unfailingly warm but a hotel sector so worn it looks like something out of Argo, the Ben Affleck movie set during the 1980 hostage crisis. If it’s any serious degree of comfort that you’re after, in short, best bring your own. Which is where the Danube Express, a luxuriously appointed 64-bed hotel on wheels, comes into its own. Golden Eagle, the train’s new operator, thinks so much of its latest destination that this chichi choo-choo is set to run nine Iran departures during 2015.

It’s an adventurous undertaking, one which takes the Danube Express far from the traditional shunting grounds its name acknowledges. Eight days earlier our 4,000-mile journey had begun at Budapest, the train’s home city, before passing through Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria.

East of Istanbul the train, gleaming in its blue, white and gold livery, took to tracks on which it had never previously travelled. To those looking out of the windows, hinterland Turkey’s autumnal steppe lands, distant snow peaks and pumpkin plots were thrillingly exotic; but less so, surely, than the train must have appeared to those looking in, like the souls on the scheduled overnight service from ultratravel 41

Erzurum that we encountered early one morning. That train clanked into Kirikkale, east of Ankara, and drew up directly alongside us, affording each set of passengers close-up views of worlds which could hardly have been more different. Where we saw crumpled figures stirring beneath threadbare blankets, and luggage racks laden with twine-tied bags, they glimpsed beechwood panelling and brass fittings, alcoves hung with embroidered towelling robes, private en suites, table lamps, vases of fresh-cut flowers and damask-covered dining-car tables laid for a champagne breakfast. Rub their eyes they might.

T border stop Akdamar Church, Lake Van, above, in eastern Turkey. Van is the last train stop before the Iranian border. Below: the 12th-century Jameh Mosque in Yazd.

Below right: Iranian women in colourful hijabs

After a crash course in how to wear the hijab, we disembarked on to a platform full of curious well-wishers

42 ultratravel

hat alluring recreation of train travel’s elegant Edwardian heyday is what the Danube Express and its largely Hungarian staff have been about since the train’s launch in 2008. No matter that the oldest of the 13 carriages, actually commissioned by Hungarian State Railways for high-ranking nomenklatura, such as the Communist Party leader Janos Kadar, date from the Fifties; or that the four deluxe sleeping cars began life as Nineties postal wagons before undergoing meticulous retro-fits. What impressed my fellow passengers, mostly from Europe, the US and Australia, was the detail, effort and unstinting charm that went into maintaining the consistently high standards. We drank from Bohemian crystal glassware and enjoyed lovingly presented threecourse dinners, typically salmon tagliatelle, wild boar, and crème brulee, somehow conjured from the cramped galley. After-dinner drinks were promptly fixed, and the tinklings of the bar-car’s resident pianist, be it Piaf or Presley, sent us to bed happy (beds were made up in our absence with Egyptian cotton sheets and discreet efficiency by waistcoated carriage attendants).

As for life beyond the train, detailed daily itineraries were provided to remind us what lay in store. Stepping down on to the little red carpets rolled out in readiness, we set off on regular guided excursions, each armed with a commentary-catching audio set, one of Golden Eagle’s especially welcome additions. There were visits to medieval Sighisoara in Romania, Istanbul’s soaring Hagia Sophia basilica, the rupestral frescoed churches of Cappadocia in Central Turkey and the exquisite carved exteriors of the Armenian Akdamar Church on Lake Van.

For all this, the growing sense was that many passengers viewed Eastern Europe and Turkey as the warm-up routine. The realisation that they would soon enter a country which they had waited decades to visit finally got to them at Van, last stop before the Iranian border, where they witnessed the obligatory offloading on to the platform of the bar-car’s every last drop of alcohol, including an outstanding selection of international wines.

Some of the passengers’ involuntary squeals of excitement drowned out even the despairing yelps of their more bibulous fellow travellers.

There was no champagne at breakfast the following morning, but the views of Lake Urmia, a vast salt flat pocked by wandering herds of fat-tailed sheep, were as intoxicating. Towards Tabriz, capital of Iran’s Azeri northwest, orchards of pomegranate and walnut trees were hemmed with crumbling mud walls. Across a land half the size of India we travelled all day to reach Zanjan. After a crash-course in hijab-wearing from our newly boarded Iranian guides, we disembarked on to a platform crowded with curious well-wishers, boy soldiers and sweet-faced students, and boarded buses for nearby Soltaniyeh.

The world’s largest brick dome, the 14th-century mausoleum of the Mongol Khan Oljeitu, was adorned in turquoise glazed kufic tiles and mosaic faience. Oljeitu did the religious rounds: after being baptised a Christian he gave serious consideration to Buddhism before converting to Sunni Islam and finally arriving at the Shia Islamic faith that dominates the modern nation. His mausoleum was not merely a thing of exquisite beauty; it felt like a monument to a dizzying historic pluralism, a rich tangle of cultural and religious beliefs that would excite all but the country’s absolutist clerics.

The following morning brought us to Yazd, ancient home of Zoroastrianism — until the advent of Islam, the dominant religion of Persia. On the outskirts of this mud-brick desert town rose the hauntingly named Towers of Silence, the hilltop enclosures where the Zoroastrians traditionally left their dead to be devoured by birds. These so-called sky burials were outlawed in the Sixties, and for reasons the more sick-minded among us were to cherish even as we doubted the truth of them. “Some residents in the nearer of the newly built houses began to complain

Popping out for lunch has a who le new meaning here .

Guernsey's ever-changing shoreline offers a different viewpoint with each visit. Follow the cliff paths which weave around the spectacular south coast past Moulin Huet Bay, a favourite of French Impressionist painter Renoir. Then picture yourself at an inviting tea room, relaxing in a setting normally found framed in a gallery.

Plan your short break at visitguernsey.com @VISITGUERNSEY

FACEBOOK.COM/VISITGUERNSEY

THEADDRESS.COM

BUSIN ESS TR AVEL OR WEEKEND GETAWAY

It’s all in The Address

Welcome to The Address Hotels + Resorts. Located in

the most vibrant parts of the city, The Address Hotels + Resorts is defning the global standards of luxury hospitality. From business meetings to social rendezvous. From absolute relaxation to luxurious indulgences. It’s where world-class services have been recreated to suit discerning tastes. It’s where energy surrounds you the minute you walk in.

It’s chic. It’s exciting. It’s all in The Address.

DOWNTOWN DUBAI | DUBAI MALL | DUBAI MARINA MONTGOMERIE DUBAI | THE PALACE DOWNTOWN DUBAI

that crows sometimes dropped body parts in their yards,” our guide explained solemnly. The sniggering had stopped by the time we reached Atashkadeh, the nearby Zoroastrian fire temple, where sandalwood fuelled a sacred flame that is said to have burnt since 470AD. Beyond the nuclear facility at Natanz, which we were forbidden to photograph even from the speeding train, we came to Isfahan. We wandered the arcaded bridges over the Zayandeh river, dry for a decade, and visited the Palace of Forty Columns amid ornamental ponds and gardens. This 17th-century pavilion was a revelation, not least for its stunning reminder that wine very much remained on the murals though it might be off the menu.

All over the walls of the reception hall, goblets and flagons of wine were depicted, along with musicians, dancing girls and even some scandalously erotic imagery — heartening evidence that the ruling Safavids certainly knew how to throw a banquet.

vinopolis Left: A 17th-century mural depicting wine consumption in the Palace of Forty Columns, Isfahan. The dramatic setting of Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, below.

Bottom: Naqsh-e Rostam, near Persepolis, a royal necropolis dating back 1,000 years

MaxiMuM ExposurE productions; Jos BEltMan; 4cornErs; gEtty; diEtMar dEngEn/laiF/caMEra prEss

N

ot so Imam Khomeini, whose stern, super-sized visage hung by the magnificent mosque-covered portal of Imam (formerly Shah) Mosque in Imam Square some 25 years after his death. In this breathtaking public space that, elsewhere in the world, would be overrun by visitors, there was only us, a few kids knocking a football across the lawns and the local calèche drivers touting for rides. Nor were there crowds in the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, a masterpiece of Safavid art, where a perfect shaft of sunlight lent the peacock at the apex of the magnificent tiled dome the most lustrous of feathered tails.

In the neighbouring Bazar-e Bozorg we lost ourselves among the high-vaulted stalls of saffron and tobacco sellers, and miniaturists.

One of our group, a flooring contractor from Chicago, set off in search of the silken Persian carpet she had long promised herself.

At ancient Persepolis, the Achaemenid’s ceremonial capital, epic scenes from the heyday of Persian might were detailed on the famed Apadana Staircase’s 2,500-year-old panels. From here Xerxes had once unleashed his vast armies on Europe, and here the West had had its revenge when Alexander the Great sacked the city a century later.

From a distance, it could sometimes seem that those historic events condemned westerners and Iranians to perpetual enmity. Close up, of course, things looked different; our encounter with Iran would have been worthwhile had it only been for the courtesies we received there, from reporters and station masters, students and stallholders, which showed that there need not be bad blood between us.

Nobody knew that like Hafez, the 14th-century poet of love, wine and nightingales, as I discovered on a visit to his tomb in his home town of Shiraz. I was wandering through the cypress groves and ornamental ponds beyond the tomb when I came across a young student translating Hafez into English. The student wondered if I might look over a line in case the translation wasn’t right. It read: “Love with Friends; Toleration with Enemies.”

I told him that the line read fine as it was.

In this enormous public space, there was only us, a few kids kicking a football, and local caleche riders touting for rides

Golden Eagle Luxury Trains (0161 928 9410; goldeneagle luxurytrains.com) has eight departures on its two-week Jewels of Persia tour from £9,095 per person, including all accommodation, drinks, visits and transfers. It has one departure on its 12-night Heart of Persia tour, beginning and ending in Tehran, from £6,195 per person. Pegasus Airlines (flypgs.com) has daily services between Tehran and London Stansted, flying via Istanbul, from £181. British Airways (ba.com) offers daily direct flights between London and Budapest from £75. Golden Eagle can arrange clients’ visas to Iran, which cost €180/£135 for UK citizens. ultratravel 45

ULT RA I S LA Nd

The ROYAL RETREAT Words cHARLES StARmER-SmitH

I

t was when a furious Felix Dennis segued down from his villa on a Segway to admonish a man whose conch shell-blowing had interrupted his afternoon nap that I realised that Mustique is no ordinary place. The late publisher-come-poet is just one of the larger-than-life characters to have owned properties on the island since it was purchased by Colin Tennant in 1958 – from Mick Jagger and Bryan Adams to Tommy Hilfiger and Princess Margaret. And they expect things to be just so.

But what is it that brings them to Mustique? The enviable weather? The spectacular beaches? The social scene? The undulating topography and car-free roads that gives perspective and peace? The eclectic mix of multi-million pound properties scattered like confetti across the island?

No. What sets this corner of the Grenadines apart is the premium it puts on privacy. The island is actually owned by the property owners themselves, so they get to set the rules. Arrivals lists are carefully monitored so that starlets can come here to party or for peace and quiet, safe in the knowledge that they will be far from the unforgiving long lens of the paparazzi. It is this that has seen the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge return seven times – that, and the knowledge that with a fatwah in place against conch shells being blown in the afternoon, baby George can sleep easy.

46 ultratravel

FREE FLOATING The pool at Tortuga villa overlooking Britannia Bay , Mustique

THE VILLAS Most villas on Mustique seem to be a marriage of ego, eccentricity and extravagance: from JamesBond style bamboo beach houses perched on cliff tops (complete with funicular down to private beach) to sprawling Palladian mansions owned by the likes of Tommy Hilfiger, via Moorish castles, Balinese jungle retreats, grand Tuscan villas and sleek modernist structures such as Hummingbird (left) straight out of Palm Beach. My personal favourite? Trade Winds: a spacious yet intimate six-bedroom property, refreshingly understated in its design, yet with every amenity. From $13,000 (£8,460) per week; mustique-island.com.

THE BArs

THE BEACHEs

The social scene revolves around the rocket-fuelled rum punches and live music of Basil’s Bar (basilsbar.com, pictured left) on Britannia Bay (the guy in the scruffy T-shirt that looks a bit like Paul McCartney probably is) and the more refined sundowners at the recently refurbished Cotton House (cottonhouse. net) and Firefly (fireflymustique.com) hotels.

The odd dinner invite may occasionally land on the doorstep from one of the neighbours. It’s usually best to say yes – they own the place.

Jumping in your golf cart to criss-cross the island to the next beach on your list is all part of the daily routine on Mustique. Where to go to surf or stroll? The simple beaches of the north-east.

To snorkel and swim? Endeavour Bay in the northwest. Each feels totally private, particularly when it’s not peak season. There are few greater moments of indulgence than returning to a deserted beach from a cooling dip to find a personal chef laying out an al fresco lunch under the thatched huts that mark the dividing line between sand and forest.

ultratravel 47

ship shape In the late 1800s, half of all migrants from Liverpool to America travelled on Cunard. Today its liners are the most stylish traversing the Atlantic.

To celebrate its 175th anniversary, Michael Kerr retraces the company’s highs and lows, and Douglas Rogers samples its modern excursions

46 ultratravel

IN ASSOCIATION WITH CUNARD

liberty bound Main picture: Captain Oprey on the bulbous bow of the Queen Mary 2 in 2014; Elizabeth Taylor (left) and David Niven and his wife Hjordis on the Queen Mary (below)

ultratravel 47

Even more reasons to celebrate.

We’ve been sailing in style for 175 years. To mark our anniversary, we invite you to enjoy complimentary on board spending money of up to $480pp*, or inclusive drinks – across a range of unforgettable cruises.

To discover more call 0843 373 4090, contact your travel agent or visit cunard.co.uk

*$480pp on board spending money is based on a Balcony Stateroom on a 14 night Mediterranean cruise. Inclusive drinks applies to all drinks purchased on board, priced up to $9 each for Britannia Staterooms, or $12 each for Grills Suites. Offers expire 30 April 2015 and are valid on selected cruises departing May 2015 – January 2016.

IN ASSOCIATION WITH CUNARD

T

he passenger’s report on his ship reads like one of the more intemperate contributions to TripAdvisor. His cabin was an “utterly impracticable, thoroughly hopeless, and profoundly preposterous box”. As for the bunk, a kind of shelf with a thin mattress, covered by a single quilt, “nothing smaller for sleeping was ever made except coffins”. The dining room was “a long, narrow apartment, not unlike a gigantic hearse with windows”, and dinner was “potatoes and meat”, followed by a “mouldy dessert of apples, grapes and oranges”.

The passenger was Charles Dickens, travelling from Liverpool to Boston in January 1842; the ship was the Britannia; and the line was the one we now know as Cunard, which, in its 175th year, is synonymous with capacious suites, grand restaurants and some of the finest dining on the high seas.

In the 1840s, though, speed mattered more than anything. In an era when post and newspapers could take six weeks to cross the Atlantic by sailing ship, Samuel Cunard, a businessman from Halifax, Nova Scotia, had set up in Liverpool his British and North American Royal Mail Steam Packet Company to exploit the potential of the new paddlewheel steamship. On her first crossing, in 1840, the Britannia had left Liverpool on July 4 and arrived in Halifax on July 17, three days ahead of schedule. Within a year, she and her three sister ships were providing a transatlantic service that didn’t just run weekly, but kept to a timetable.

Within a few decades, it was migration rather than mail that was generating most of Cunard’s income. Between 1860 and 1900, 14 million people emigrated from Europe to the United States; 4.5 million of them passed through Liverpool, half of them crossing the Atlantic with Cunard.

While speeding passage to the new world, Cunard felt the cataclysms shaking the old one. In the First World War it lost 20 of its 25 ships, including the Lusitania, sunk on May 7 1915 by two German torpedoes with the loss of some 1,200 lives. In the Second World War, the conversions of the company’s liners, including the Queen Mary and the Queen Elizabeth, to troopships helped to make possible the D-Day landings and, in Churchill’s estimation, to shorten the conflict in Europe by at least a year.

In between, Cunard survived the Wall Street Crash and the Great Depression with the sort of diversification that would become more important in later years, sending idle liners off to cruise the tropics in the winter (and even offering a “booze cruise”: a three-day excursion to Halifax and back designed to circumvent Prohibition).

It was on the Atlantic crossing, though, that the company made its name, and where, having established a reputation for dependability and speed, it began to offer comfort and indulgence in liners such as Mauretania, Lusitania and Aquitania. The interior of the last, regarded by many authorities as the most beautiful ever seen in a ship, included a first-class smoking room 76ft long and 52ft wide, with painted ceiling panels (Embarkation of St Ursula; Seaport with Figures) and hand-carved coats of arms in solid oak in the manner of Grinling Gibbons. It was a time of genteel

LUXURY LAUNCH Clockwise from left: Queen Elizabeth 2 enters the water at Clydebank on September 20 1967; Denis Lorca, Cunard’s kennel master; Winston and Clementine Churchill, both regular guests on the Queen Mary; a detail of the new Queen Elizabeth

When the Queen Mary left the Clyde in 1936, 1.5 million people came to watch. Twenty hours before, they were taking up positions on the banks FROM SHIP TO SUPERCAR the maserati transfer “How fast does this thing go?”

“Speed limit.”

“Driven anyone famous?”

“Justin Bieber” “Where’d you take him?”

“McDonald’s.”

Gary A. Billings, my Langham Place driver for the afternoon, is a man of few words. Heck, I would be, too, if my days were spent driving hotel guests through Manhattan in a $100,000 sports car.

Langham London is famous for its signature pink London

taxi cab, but Langham Place, the luxury five-star New York property beside the Empire State Building, requires something altogether sexier.

Say hello to the four-door 2014 Maserati Quattroporte SQ4. Royal blue (the accent of the hotel lobby), with swooping grille and bonnet, the car could, if laws were no object, hit 176mph. Word of the car spread in 2014 after the hotel’s bar put a $176 cocktail on its menu. Buy the drink and you get a spin.

My trip is downtown to meet friends in the Financial District.

We set off down Fifth Avenue, me in the back on black leather, Gary in beret and sheepskin coat behind the wheel looking like part of the upholstery. We pass the Empire State Building and, although it’s snowing, I wind down the windows so people can see who I am.

We’re on a go-slow through Nolita and SoHo, then slice through Chinatown and onto the FDR Drive, the East River

highway. Here Gary applies the gas. With the skyscrapers twinkling in the dusk, I feel as if I’m in a car commercial.

When we pull up outside my destination, I half expect the flash of paparazzi lights.

Instead, I step out on to empty, soundless streets. In seconds Gary is off, his Langham licence plates disappearing into a tunnel of snow. Douglas Rogers Maserati transfers are available to Cunard passengers staying at The Langham, subject to availability.

ultratravel 51

IN ASSOCIATION WITH CUNARD

Cunard/James morgan; Julian simmons/Cunard; alamy; Hulton getty; rex

It was a time of palm courts, string quartets, and dressing for dinner, lunch and breakfast, too

afternoon tea, palm courts, string quartets – and dressing not just for dinner but for breakfast and luncheon, too.

Then came the Queen Mary and the Queen Elizabeth, which, with their art-deco splendour, ushered in what is regarded as the golden age of transatlantic travel; an age that many who would never set foot on a Cunard ship could enjoy vicariously. When the Queen Mary left the Clyde on her sea trials in March 1936, a million and a half people turned out to watch, some from as far away as Devon and Cornwall. Twenty hours beforehand they were taking up positions on the banks, preparing to sleep out in tents, caravans or cars to see what Hector Bywater, reporting for The Daily Telegraph, called “this great ship, freighted with the hopes of a nation”.

It was around this time that the “Cunard Grill” – still a feature today – came into its own. For 10 shillings, firstclass passengers could drink, dine and dance into the small hours. Around then, too, the claim was first made that, whatever the request, Cunard chefs would deliver.

The story is told of an oil baron who, after the Second World War and the end of rationing, asked one evening for rattlesnake steaks for four. The order was taken without question. He was served four eels on a silver salver, to an accompaniment of two waiters sombrely shaking rattles.

The post-war years brought a boom for Cunard. By 1949 tourist berths on the Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth were sold out for a year in advance and first class for two months ahead. Among those on the passenger lists were the Queen and the Queen Mother, Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall, Spencer Tracy and Katharine Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, and Henry Ford II. Among them, also, were Sir Winston Churchill and his wife, Clementine.

Churchill said of the British Empire: “You came into great things by an accident of sea power… By an accident of air power you will probably cease to exist.” He might well have been speaking of Cunard. The year 1958 was the zenith of the transatlantic steamship trade, with 1,200,000 passengers crossing; by the end of 1959, nearly two travellers would fly for every one who sailed. In 1962, Cunard was forced to take two of its four vessels off the crossing to Montreal and turn them into full-time cruise ships. By 1974 (two years before Concorde) the Queen Elizabeth, then the sole survivor of Cunard’s once-mighty transatlantic fleet, was running almost empty: on a crossing from New York to Southampton, she carried 80 passengers, attended by a crew of 1,100.

The launch in 1969 of the QE2, it was hoped, would

AN ENGLISHMAN IN NEW YORK Above: Sting beside the Queen Mary 2 last year.

Left: a early poster for the cruise line. Below: The Queen admires the Britannia figurehead on the QE2 in May 1969

B

MAKE MINE A CUNARD CUP the welcome cocktail I’m on a high stool at Measure, imperious lounge bar of New York’s Langham Place hotel, sampling a signature cocktail specially created for – and only served to – passengers of Cunard’s Queen Mary 2.

It’s not a bad old life.

Langham Place is the only five-star New York hotel to which Cunard provides transfers, whether just to pop in to sample the cocktails or to stay.

On the hotel’s high-ceiling

52 ultratravel

lobby floor, guests on low couches can sample Belgian chef David Vandenabeele’s American-British comfort food (oysters; warm scotch eggs), while at the corner bar Sarah Karakian and Vinnie Miliano hold court.

Their Cunard Cup is a perfect combination of Anglo sophistication and New York swagger: Pimms; fresh lemon juice, grenadine, with a burst of sparkling ginger beer and an orange peel for garnish. A nice

be the salvation of the line. Terence Mullaly, for The Daily Telegraph, said that a crossing on her would become a social fixture for everybody who had ambitions to be anybody. She was popular both for transatlantic trips in summer and the Caribbean in winter, but barely broke even. Cunard ended the year losing more than £2million – its eighth year in the red out of the previous 10.

In 1971, the company was sold to the property developer Trafalgar House and the next 28 years, with the exception of the QE2’s role as a troopship in the Falklands War, were not the most glorious in Cunard’s history.

The company was losing its identity at a time when its competitors were making theirs abundantly clear, from Princess, cashing in on the American television show The Love Boat, and selling itself as the line for the young and loaded, to Swan Hellenic, which the Bishop of Oxford once suggested was the Church of England at sea.

touch: it’s served in an elegant herringbonepatterned measure glass by John Jenkins and Sons, the UK glass company that also supplies the bar’s miniature martini goblets and spiral champagne flutes.

The Cunard is a sweet refresher; I graduate to the drier Payback next, made with George Dickel Tennessee whiskey, amaro nonino liqueur, vermouth, cranberry and burlesque bitters – a clever twist on an

Old Fashioned. It’s the perfect accompaniment to the live jazz, which starts at 8pm every evening, performers booked by Antonio Ciacca, former Director of Programming of Jazz at Lincoln Center.

Which all makes sense: the high ceilings, soaring windows, Fifth Avenue in front of us, the Empire State Building above: Measure is hotel bar as performance space. With the drinks to match. Douglas Rogers

ut what was Cunard? At that time, in the words of Micky Arison, it was “just a ‘metoo’ brand” – offering something of what everybody else did. When Arison’s Carnival Corporation, one of the canniest players in the cruising trade, bought a majority interest in Cunard in 1999, no one had any illusions that it was doing so out of nostalgia. Captain Ronald Warwick, who had joined Cunard as a junior officer and risen to take command of the QE2 in 1990, had said more than once that ocean liners would die with that ship. He was in for a surprise.

Carnival’s first move was to order an $18million refit of the QE2 (which would continue in service until 2008 and sail, in all, more than five million miles). Then it declared that it was planning to build what would be the largest and most luxurious “true ocean liner”: the Queen Mary 2. Warwick told a shipping forum in New York that year that, for the first time in two decades, he was optimistic about Cunard’s future.

He had reason to be. Bookings for the Queen Mary 2 opened on August 1 2002; the next day, her maiden voyage – scheduled to begin on January 12 2004 – had sold out.

In a new and hectic century, stateliness was the draw.

Similar success followed with the Queen Victoria, in 2007, and the new Queen Elizabeth (2010).

Carnival, it’s generally agreed, has been the saving of Cunard, retaining or reviving some of the best of what it stood for. In the plush Queens Room of the Queen Elizabeth, afternoon tea is served by white-gloved waiters.

On the Queen Victoria, passengers are expected (and expect) to dress for dinner. The Queen Mary 2 is still offering a scheduled transatlantic crossing – now the only scheduled transatlantic crossing. There may be arguments over how “British” Cunard can be, when its passengers pay in dollars, many of its staff are from eastern Europe and its ships are registered in Bermuda.

But there can be no argument that, 175 years on, it is not just surviving but thriving.

In the words of Daniel Allen Butler, author of The Age of Cunard: “The technologies that grew out of the industrial expansion which spawned the steamships ultimately made them obsolete. The need for the services which the Cunard Line had long provided ceased to exist, and so the company reinvented itself, ultimately successfully, so that when it could no longer fulfil a need it satisfied a desire.”

Michael Kerr edited ‘Bon Voyage! The Telegraph Book of River and Sea Journeys’ (Aurum).

CUNARD COMPETITION

175 yEARS: FOREvER CUNARD

Win an exclusive tour to celebrate Cunard’s 175th anniversary For 175 years, Cunard has been a pioneer of ocean travel. An impressive list of notables — from Mark Twain to Clark Gable, Jackie Onassis to Nelson Mandela — have been on board, along with many members of the Royal Family.

Over the decades, the Cunard name has become entwined with luxury and no more so than with the Grills Experience. Cunard’s Grills Suites are the pinnacle of cruising excellence, offering sumptuous accommodation, elegant private dining and an unsurpassed level of the famous White Star Service.

To celebrate Cunard’s 175th anniversary, the Telegraph has teamed up with Cunard to bring you an exclusive prize draw. You could win one of 25 pairs of tickets for a very special visit to Queen Elizabeth in Southampton on June 16, 2015.

EACH PRIZE INCLUDES £Champagne reception hosted by the Telegraph’s head of travel, Charles Starmer-Smith (left), and Cunard marketing director Angus Struthers. £Guided tour of the Grills Suites and exclusive restaurants and lounges. £Three-course lunch including wine. £Complimentary tea and coffee at the cruise terminal on arrival in Southampton.

HOW TO ENTER

Few things are genuinely timeless but Cunard has for a great many years been associated with effortless style and desirability. To be aboard one of the magnificent three Queens during the line’s 175th anniversary means becoming a part of this illustrious history. With an unbroken record of conveying people across the Atlantic, from migrants seeking a new life to Hollywood stars and even royalty, Cunard has played a major part in the fabric of the UK and beyond. Today, Cunard’s magnificent three Queens continue to offer civilised adventures, whether you wish for a balmy week exploring the Mediterranean, a four-month circumnavigation of the world or an unforgettable way to travel to New York. Every cruise in 2015 will feature commemorative events such as gala dinners and glittering balls. Selected voyages will have on board some illustrious guests and musical performers — see page 66 for details.

CUNARD GRILLS ExPERIENCE Cunard Grills Suites represent the pinnacle of refined ocean travel. With accommodation in plush suites, exclusive restaurants and a supreme level of White Star Service, guests are thoroughly pampered from the time they arrive at priority check-in. The sumptuous accommodation ranges from spacious Princess Grill Suites with private balcony to breathtaking double-level suites with two marble bathrooms in Queens Grill with butler service. All guests benefit from the exclusive Grills Terrace and Grills Lounge, with their intimate ambience. Naturally, the cuisine served in the elegant Grills restaurants — where you will have a reserved table and can dine at the time of your choosing — is of the very highest quality, accompanied by one of the finest wine lists at sea. At each port, the exclusive concierge will make all the arrangements to create memorable moments ashore. For full details of the Cunard Grills Experience, see page 66.

£For your chance to win this excellent day out, visit the website cunard.co.uk/ultratravel.

The prize draw closes on March 31, 2015. £Terms and conditions apply: see the website for full details.

ExPLORING EUROPE’S TREASURES

TRANSATLANTIC CROSSINGS

The Mediterranean, binding together Europe, Africa and Asia, is one of the world’s great cruising regions, ringed by grand old cities and breathtaking seascapes. And on a cruise aboard a Cunard Queen, you can take in a variety of sights and experiences. Cunard’s itineraries for 2015 are especially rich. Your voyage may be a memorable encounter with the chic French Riviera and Italy’s Renaissance treasures, a visit to the Adriatic to discover Croatian jewels and enjoy romantic Venice, or a journey among picturesque Greek islands and archaeological sites. There’s a choice of flying out to join your ship in Istanbul, Athens, Venice or Rome — exciting cities in which Cunard can arrange for a few nights’ stay before — or you can start and end your holiday in Southampton. As well as the Med, there are superb short-break cruises, voyages to the Canary Islands and journeys to admire the spectacular scenery of Norway and Iceland.

Cunard is unique in offering scheduled Transatlantic Crossings to and from New York on the world’s only true ocean liner, the majestic Queen Mary 2 — one of the world’s great journeys. The voyage can be made between Southampton and New York and many guests choose to stay for a few days in Manhattan for some exciting sightseeing, shopping, dining and maybe a Broadway show. Cunard can arrange your stay in an excellent selection of hotels. On board, you can be as active or relaxed as you like as you cross the Atlantic, but whatever you choose to do it will be enhanced by Cunard’s legendary White Star Service. You can enjoy exquisite dining, relax on spacious sundecks, pamper yourself in the fabulous Canyon Ranch SpaClub, listen to Insights lectures, see glittering entertainment, drink in sophisticated bars and glimpse the universe in the world’s only floating planetarium.

To find out more about Cunard’s 175th anniversary, visit cunard.co.uk/telegraph

ABTA No.V4068

ultratravel 53

IN ASSOCIATION WITH CUNARD

bar fly Craft cocktail-maker Michael McIlroy in Attaboy, his bar inspired by a Twenties speakeasy PHOTOGraPH by VIrGINIa rOllINSON

54 ultratravel

New York’s great cocktail tradition has been revived by expert mixologists all over the city – from sky-high hotel bars to hip Brooklyn speakeasies.

Ultratravel raises a glass to seven of its finest

movers and shakers words richard grant

B

efore jazz, automobiles, Hollywood films or cheeseburgers, America gave the world cocktails. Bold, glamorous but slightly vulgar, like the nation itself, these concoctions of spirits, sugar, bitters and ice emerged in the mid-19th century.

The Prince of Wales, the explorer Sir Richard Burton and other prominent Victorians sailed across the Atlantic to sample them, and returned as enthusiastic converts.

The golden age of American cocktails, when celebrity bartenders earned more than the Vice President, and could pour liquid rainbows of alcohol through the air, ended with Prohibition in 1920. For the rest of the 20th century, the art of mixology withered away, and its nadir came in the Eighties, when a typical cocktail was a fish-bowl filled with random spirits, drowned in fruit juice, and sweetened to the point of sickliness.

In the past decade, however, there has been a renaissance of pre-Prohibition cocktails, and its capital is New York, where so many of the drinks were invented in the first place. A new generation of mixologists, many of them tattooed, bearded, and steeped in the lore of bartending, have led a craft cocktail movement that has dramatically improved the quality of mixed drinks all over the city. The main danger now, when hunting for the best cocktails in New York, is an excess of artisanal gimmickry — foams, gels, vapours, infusions, the use of eyedroppers and tweezers.

For the traveller, nothing is more satisfying than a perfectly made classic cocktail at the bar of a grand old New York hotel, especially if he or she is in the happy position of staying in one. The Carlyle on the Upper East Side and The St Regis in Midtown both have legendary cocktail bars, and both get crowded. So make a reservation, or pick the hour carefully and, if possible, sit at the bar.

A cocktail is a performance. After a rattle of ice cubes, a dash and a splash, the bartender pours it with a flourish, perhaps garnishes it with a twist, and then places the marvellous concoction in front of the customer. With the first sip, the chilled flavours spread across the palate, the alcohol climbs into the brain, and a kind of illusion takes place. Right here, at this very moment, the drinker is getting exactly what he wants out of life. ultratravel 55

IN ASSOCIATION WITH CUNARD

NEW YORK’s SEVEN BEsT COCKTAILs BARs

D ECO DEL I G H T

Bemelmans Bar

and exceedingly delicious. The owner, Audrey Saunders, aka the “Libation Goddess”, was a pioneer of the craft cocktail movement, and the Pegu Club, now in its tenth

“People come for the martinis,” says the old bartender.

year, has become a bastion of excellence. The gin drinks

JFK certainly came for the martinis and always sat in the

are particularly good: the Gin-Gin Mule and the Earl Grey

same chair at the end of the black granite bar. Cary Grant

MarTeani have been hailed as modern classics. The menu

and Humphrey Bogart were regulars here. Apart from the

also contains an enticing page called “Champagne

computer, nothing much has changed in 60 years, and

Opportunities”, with a quote from Winston Churchill:

that’s the beauty of it. No modern luxury hotel would build

“In defeat I need it, in victory I deserve it.” Bar snacks

a bar this small. It’s an art deco lounge with an intimate

include chicken satay and smoked-trout devilled eggs.

subterranean feel: low ceilings decorated with 24-carat

Seasoned hands say beware of the Pisco Punch.

gold leaf, black glass tables and leather banquettes,

The Pegu Club (001 212 473 7348; peguclub.com)

white-jacketed waiters and a grand piano tinkled by a jazz

A M ERICA N G OTHIC

musician. The bar is named after Ludwig Bemelmans, the

Death & Co

creator of the Madeline children’s books, who drank here and painted the whimsical murals on the walls that feature ice-skating elephants and picnicking rabbits.

This legendary East Village craft cocktail emporium, now

The clientele today is a mix of socialites, politicians, movie

with its own recipe book, specialises in creative updates

people, and well-heeled tourists. The drinks are big and

on pre-Prohibition drinks. A doorman calls when seating

expensive. A champagne and cognac cocktail goes well

becomes available; no standing is allowed. Behind heavy

with the surroundings, and there is nowhere better to

scorched-wood doors is a dark, velvety gothic room, with

drink a dry martini, stirred not shaken for transparent

black tables, suede banquettes and fashionable people

silkiness and maximum chill.

beautifully lit by glimmering chandeliers. Some items on

The Carlyle (001 212 744 1600; or toll-free,

the cocktail menu look a little overwrought — does rye

00 800 8767 3966; rosewoodhotels.com)

whiskey really need infusing with camomile tea? — but invariably, they taste superb. A house innovation was to

S KY H I G H

Bar 54

introduce tequilas and mescals from Mexico into traditional American cocktail styles. The Oaxaca Old Fashioned blends these spirits with agave nectar, bitters

The problem with most rooftop bars in New York is

and a twist of flamed orange peel to create a smoky

thumping DJ music, screeching fashionistas, and gelato

masterpiece. For a resurrected American classic, the

floats on clumsy cocktails. The views are incredible, but

cognac and chartreuse-based Jimmie Roosevelt is

who wants to hang around? Bar 54, on the 54th storey of

everything a great cocktail should be. A perfectly balanced

the Hyatt Times Square, claims to be the highest cocktail

blend of sweet, sour, savoury, aromatic and bitter flavours,

lounge in Manhattan, and it’s refreshingly calm and

it delivers its alcohol in a fast, vigorous jolt.

unpretentious. From the outdoor terrace, there are

Death & Co (001 212 388 0882; deathandcompany.com)

spectacular views of the Chrysler Building, the city’s

BROOKLYN BELLE

southern skyline, and both rivers. The cars look like

Clover Club

miniature toys on the streets far below and, at dusk, it’s a pleasure to watch the city gradually turn its lights on.

Inside, the décor is a little mediocre, but the craft cocktails

A pioneer of the nouveau-antiquarian cocktail movement,

are first-rate. The bearded Brooklynite bartender works

Clover Club in Brooklyn features a 19th-century mahogany

with a stellar collection of spirits, wines and house-made

bar, marble tables, a pressed-tin ceiling, and what

bitters. Bowls of punch are available for larger parties, and

America’s pre-eminent cocktail historian and writer

the small plates include porchetta sandwiches and

David Wondrich has called “the best cocktails on earth”.

Spanish octopus with chickpeas and beetroot.

For an added bonus, it’s not smug and snooty, but low-key

Hyatt Times Square (001 646 364 1234;

and light-hearted. When the music moves them, the

timessquarehyatt.com)

wizards behind the bar will dance, and syncopate their rattling cocktail shakers to the beat. The menu is divided

MO DER N M ASTER

Pegu Club

into Sours and Cobblers, Punches, Collins and Fizzes, Royales, Seasonals, and Cocktails. In 19th-century terminology, a cocktail was simply spirits, bitters and

The original Pegu Club was a British colonial officer’s club

sugar; more elaborate creations were filed in these other

in Rangoon, Burma, circa 1900, and this sophisticated

categories. Start with the namesake Clover Club, a drink

lower Manhattan lounge has been influenced by its

with a 100-year lineage containing gin, dry vermouth,

mystique, oriental furnishings and mixology. The signature

lemon, raspberry and egg white. Then perhaps a New York

Pegu Club Cocktail is a crisp and snappy blend of gin,

Sour with a red wine float, and a side of potatoes fried

bitters, orange curaçao and lemon juice — a slight

in duck fat.

variation on the original enjoyed by Rudyard Kipling,

Clover Club (001 718 855 7939; cloverclubny.com)

56 ultratravel

iNSidE iS a dark,VElVEty ro

BAR CRAWLTop row, left to right: Chipping ice at the bar; The King Cole Bar at The St Regis; a Douglas Fir Gimlet at Pegu Club. Middle row: Bar 54; rooftop view; putting the finishing fire to an Oaxaca Old Fashioned at Death & Co. Bottom row: rooftop terrace at Bar 54; dressed up for cocktails; the interior of Attaboy

SECR E T SP E AKE ASY

Attaboy

There’s no sign, and no phone or website. Walk down a shabby street in Chinatown and look for the letters “AB” stuck on a battered old door next to 134B. Knock gently and it opens part-way. A young man takes a phone number, and says: “Half an hour”. When he calls back, the customer is permitted to step through the door into a long, narrow candlelit room only 8ft wide with a steel-and-wood bar, T-Rex playing on the sound system, and shelves of old books. Once upon a time, this was a Chinese tailor’s shop and, in a certain way, that tradition continues: the bartenders, who include the managers Sam Ross and Michael McIlroy (previously of private club Milk & Honey), like to tailor their drinks to suit the individual customer. They ask for likes and dislikes, what mood the drinker is in, and come up with suggestions. Half the fun of sitting in Attaboy’s tight, intimate space is being able to watch them work at close quarters —hand-chipping ice from big blocks, zesting and crushing fruit, stirring, shaking — while they talk to customers. There are several of these speakeasy-style bars in the city now, but Attaboy has the edge both for hospitality and the excellence of its drinks. Fans of bourbon and absinthe should go for a Waldorf, which is a glorious blend of vermouth and lemon juice.

The Scotch-based Penicillin in a house favourite.

Attaboy, 134 Eldridge Street, between Broome and Delancey Sts, Lower East Side. No telephone or website.

om, full of beautiful people lit by glimmering chandeliers GRAND H OTE L

King Cole Bar

Salvador Dali used to live at The St Regis and feed peanuts to his pet ocelot at the bar. A scene from The

tara donne; joe plimmer; William Hereford; alamy; getty; virginia rollinson

Devil Wears Prada was filmed here, and real-life fashion mavens and movie stars join the nightly throng. Aside from its high-flying clientele and the sumptuous décor, the bar is famous for its drinks — and one in particular. In 1934, the head bartender, Fernand Petiot, made a few improvements to his recipe of vodka and tomato juice (he added Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper and cayenne pepper). He called it the Red Snapper, but it became known as the Bloody Mary. The King Cole still refers to it by its original name. Behind the bar is a playful neo-classical mural painted by the artist Maxfield Parrish for the hotel’s first owner, John Jacob Astor.

St Regis New York (001 212 339 6857; kingcolebar.com) Cunard (0843 374 2224; cunard.co.uk) offers a trip to New York, leaving Southampton on May 3, with seven nights on the Queen Mary 2, two nights at the Langham, an economy BA flight and a Maserati transfer from £1,839 a person.

ultratravel 57

JAMAICA

•

SAINT LUCIA

•

ANTIGUA

•

ALL CARIBBEAN’S BEST BEACHES

BAHAMAS

•

GRENADA

•

BARBADOS

INCLUDED UNLIMITED THE TIME

GOURMET DINING

UNLIMITED GOLF*

Sandals Royal Bahamian Spa Resort & Offshore Island

MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS ON THE PLANET

Of all the all-inclusive luxury resorts in the world, only Sandals Resorts includes the best of everything. The Caribbean’s most beautiful beaches. Romantic suites with signature private plunge pools and Tranquillity Soaking Tubs. More land and water sports, including golf*, waterskiing, and unlimited scuba diving^. Gourmet Discovery Dining with the most exceptional cuisine at up to 16 restaurants per resort and unlimited pours of premium drinks and Robert Mondavi Twin Oaks wines. And with our new resorts in Grenada and Barbados, now there are two more luxurious reasons to make Sandals your next Luxury Included ® Holiday.

Love Is All You Need TO BOOK THE WORLD’S LEADING ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORTS Call 0800 742 742 | Visit sandals.co.uk See your local travel agent *Mandatory caddies at cost. ^Scuba diving included for certified

World's Leading All Inclusive Resorts 19 Years Running

RETURN OF EL DORADO

Colombia has long offered the traveller architectural, literary and cultural riches. But the launch of direct flights, and the opening last year of

60 ultratravel

regal pleasures Clockwise from far left: treasure at the Gold Museum; courtyard and lunch at the Legend Santa Clara hotel in Cartagena, street in La Candelaria, Bogotá; coffee bush; Botero sculpture

words chris moss

inventive gourmet restaurants and 22 boutique hotels, herald a new golden era

I

t was Sunday and at the Gold Museum in Bogotá small crowds were gathering before many of the exhibits. In one shadowy room, a large, intricatelooking object stood out, glowing in the dark. It turned out to be a piece of Hispanic art: a scale replica of a raft used by the Muiscas, indigenous lake-dwellers who had filled the conquistadors’ heads with stories of a king covered in gold dust – christened “The Golden Man” by the Spaniards – and of untold riches waiting to be discovered. Although the prize remained elusive, the lure of El Dorado endured, and the discovery of precious stones and metals around the lake led to the founding of the Colombian capital in 1538.

Bogotá has long since spread out to become an immense, teeming city, but in the oldest quarter, La Candelaria, you get some idea of the original settlement.

My partner and I stayed in the Hotel de la Opera, beside the old opera house, overlooking a pedestrianised strip that was always quiet. Under balmy skies (Bogotá, at a tropical latitude but high in the Andes, enjoys yearround spring weather) we took in the landmarks: handsome baroque churches, colonial-style mansions showcasing the art of Fernando Botero, and a whole block of restaurants selling traditional stews and sweets.

La Candelaria is redefining itself as a cool, contemporary barrio, a symbol of a safe, forward-looking Colombia that has moved on far from its position on the backpacker circuit to become a destination for wellheeled, luxury-loving travellers. We lunched on quinoa and salad at an organic deli before browsing the bookshop at a cultural complex dedicated to Gabriel García Márquez. In fact, “Gabo” was everywhere, in street art, sculptures, plaques and a timeline adorning the entire outside wall of a huge library. A steep climb took us up to the Chorro de Quevedo, where an ancient well leads off to several tiny lanes crammed with independent bars and shops. We could see to the end of the streets here, through to the lushly forested slopes of the peaks that surround the city.

On a Sunday, many of Bogotá’s main thoroughfares are closed for exclusive use by cyclists. We rented bikes and peddled through shiny financial and commercial districts, past parks and plazas, and into social hubs such as the leafy Parque 93 and the chic shopping quarter known as La Zona T. We had to dismount and push our bikes through the throngs browsing antiques, gifts and potted plants at the Usaquén street market. Eventually, the stalls dwindled and the cobbled lane was lined with ultratravel 61

ULTRA A dv en TUR e

French and Italian eateries, wine bars, microbreweries and posher shops housed in low, yellow-walled colonial buildings. Twelve miles from La Candelaria, Usaquén was a country area until the Fifties. Now it’s part of the city, with a new gold-themed W hotel, pods of intelligent office towers, and a burgeoning expat population.

Cities have a tangible energy when they are on the cusp of something. Bogotá is modernising, expanding, getting richer. I preferred the tiled roofs and whitewashed adobe of La Candelaria to the strutting skyscrapers. Then again, we tended to opt for ceviches and saltimboccas over the hearty soups. When it came to coffee, I was torn between the superlative flat whites at stylish outlets of the Juan Valdéz chain or the mellow atmosphere of the Pastelería La Florida, a grand old confitería that hasn’t changed since the Thirties. Both were lovely, neither perfect – a fine excuse to go on a quest.

own cowboy hat, and then admire the scenery from inside. At the Café Jesús Martín, skilled baristas roasted and ground rare-variety beans on site before crafting beautiful froth-art atop their perfect little lattes and cappuccinos. While that solved our quest for the perfect coffee, the coffee weather was beginning to wear on us.

Fortunately, we were heading not into the rainy hills but north to Cartagena.

Cartagena is the most romantic city in the Americas.

It’s the best-preserved walled city I’ve ever seen, protected not only against time and the ocean but also, thanks to its peninsular location, from the modernising influences of the mainland. It was a strategic fortress when places like Buenos Aires and Caracas were blueprints. It even played a role in provoking the creation of the United Kingdom; when the Spanish galleon sailed out of Cartagena to kick

jet took us over the Ruiz-Tolima massif, a chain of volcanoes in Colombia’s central Andean cordillera. In half an hour we were descending into the city of Pereira, in the heart of the Eje Cafetero or “coffee triangle”. The main highway meanders through plantations of coffee bushes, planted on pyramidshaped hills in neat rows occasionally broken by shadegiving plantain trees and small stands of a giant bamboo called guadua. The coffee region is my – and, I suspect, many people’s – idea of archetypal Latin America: mistshrouded blue mountains, thatched shacks, clouds of tiny blue and yellow tanagers, and a bottle-green sea of countless coffee bushes. The sun-facing slopes are often dramatically inclined; pickers have to abseil on ropes on the steepest, basket in hand. In 2011, Unesco recognised the Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia as a rare instance of synergy between history and modernity, agriculture and urbanisation. We drove on into a rain shower, which soon withdrew to leave behind shimmering afternoon light.

The plaza in the main town, Filandia, looked like a stage set. Willys Jeeps, the vintage vehicles that are the favoured transport of estate-managers, occupied an entire side. At the corner, serious-looking señores in Stetsons chatted over morning coffees, looking up only when the clip-clop of horses announced the arrival of a troop of riders mounted on skipping Paso Finos, much-prized in the coffee triangle. The rest of the plaza was taken up with a bakery, a church, a bar, a butcher, a police station – all the requirements of your average coffee-picking town.

We lunched at the Hacienda Venecia, an organic coffee ranch I first visited in 2006, when it was a private house.

Today, although the estancia is open to travellers and has been smartened, it retains the feel of a home. The newly painted veranda was filled with old saddles and straw hats, loungers and hammocks, with flowers spilling out of hanging pots. Enjoying a view over the plantation, with the silver snake of a river down below, we dined on Colombia’s national comfort food: ajiaco, which is chicken and potato soup enlivened with a local herb called guasca that tastes a little like artichoke, served with avocado, salad, sweetcorn and tropical fruit juices.

It was only a short drive to Salento, another perfect little coffee town, where the deluges inspired me to get my

We sat back on a cane sofa, drinking rum cocktails infused with coffee and cigar smoke. Castro and Arafat stayed here during non-aligned summits.

Jagger and Shakira were more recent guests

A

62 ultratravel

a Scottish colony out of Panama in 1700, the Scots were left with a huge debt – Westminster footed the bill in return for the Act of Union.

From our base in the Anandá Hotel – one of three converted former palaces we stayed at – we set off on a zigzag around streets whose names harked back to those restive pre-independence days: Mercy Street, Tobacco Street, Barracks Street, Prohibition of Firewater Street (seriously).

As many saints’ names are crammed into its plazas and alleys as is physically possible – the centre is only six blocks by six – and there were once dozens of churches as well as monasteries and convents. The buildings of these are now largely taken over by civic and tourist services.

Behind the whitewashed, ochre and terracotta façades were gorgeous bars and cafés, art galleries and antique stores, restaurants and fashion boutiques. We had sea bass ceviche for our first lunch and a delicious takeaway lulo (a citrus-like fruit) and soursop ice-creams from the tiny heladería next door.

Walking along, we were constantly peeking into inner patios. The grander properties had two and sometimes three courtyards, with a traditional aljibe – or well – at the centre of the largest. It could be Andalusia, but then there’s the bright green flash of parakeets flapping towards their nests in the belfries of San Pedro Claver.

We visited two history museums. One housed a rudimentary exhibition devoted to the Inquisition, and had the usual stocks, gibbets and horrific ironwork. The prescribed questions used at the interviews demonstrated what impartiality meant to the men who asked them: Who taught you to fly? What demons attended your wedding?

Why did you become a witch? The other was a similarly simple affair, mainly texts and fading paintings telling the story of the founding of Cartagena, and the establishment of “La Carrera de Indias” – the gold, silver, pearl and gemstone trade route that linked Panama, Mexico, Cuba and Cartagena with Spain. But there was Gabo again, and an evocative line from Love in the Time of Cholera, which unfolds in a fictitious city inspired by Cartagena: “The only sign of life were the languid piano exercises at two o’clock in the afternoon during siesta…” On a baking hot afternoon, this was a sufficient prompt to return to the hotel for a nap.

In Cartagena glimpses of the sea at one or other end of the street eventually draw you out of the maze of the centre to the bulwarks. As the sun cooled and slipped west, we walked along the old sea wall, watching the pelicans and magnificent frigatebirds settle for the night and the cocktail drinkers, in their elegant summer dresses and linen suits, gathering at the Café del Mar – the local landmark for honeymooners and night owls.

El Coro at the Sofitel-owned Santa Clara hotel was my dreamed-of drinking den. Fans spin slowly on the ceiling.

Naive artworks hang on the walls. Ferns and other greenery burst from dark corners. Lamplight sneaks through the louvre doors from the street outside. We sat back on a cane sofa to sip rum cocktails infused with coffee and cigar smoke. The hotel is an extension of the same style: indigenous, exuberant, elegant. Castro and Arafat stayed here in the days when the non-aligned countries held their summits here. Jagger and Shakira were more recent guests. Gabo had a house next door.

We could have happily ended our holiday there at the bar, but were up at dawn to visit Cartagena’s mangroves. It was the gold-laden tombs of the Sinú people, the original inhabitants, that inspired the first Spanish expeditions.

Europe’s plunderers and pirates turned the port into a place of transit and trade. But as we drifted around the calm lagoon on our little raft, with kingfishers diving on one side and a pink flamingo wading on the other, I had no inclination to go anywhere else. The restless contemporary conquistador in me had had his fill of travel; El Dorado could wait for later.

Miraviva (020 7186 1111, miravivatravel.com) can organise a 14-day trip to Colombia from £3,775 per person, including two nights at Sofitel Bogotá Victoria Regia, then three nights in the Hacienda Venecia, and four nights at the Sofitel Santa Clara in Cartagena, and a visit to Hotel Punta Faro in the Islas del Rosario, including international flights with Avianca, transfers and private guided excursions.

PA N A M A

VENEZUELA

COLOMBIA

ECUADOR

THE ULTRA GUIDE TO COLOMBIA WHERE TO STAY SAZAGUA, near Pereira, coffee region Ranch-style resort with warmly decorated rooms, flourishing gardens populated with hummingbirds, and private dining (0057 6 337 9895, sazagua.com ; doubles from ÂŁ95).

SOFITEL SANTA CLARA, Cartagena From the stylish uniforms designed by Lina Cantillo, one of Colombia’s leading menswear designers, to the moody El Coro bar and the serious French cuisine, this is Cartagena’s landmark hotel (0057 5 650 4700, sofitel.com; doubles from £210).

HOTEL DE LA OPERA, BogotĂĄ With its perfect location, quiet patios and rooftop restaurant, this is the best choice in La Candelaria area (0057 1 336 2066, hotelopera.com.co; doubles from ÂŁ140).

WHERE TO EAT THE ORCHIDS, Bogotå The eight-room opera-themed hotel is bold verging on bling, but chef Francisco Pinzón’s kitchen is among the most creative in Bogotå. Try deconstruction of saltimbocca, the grilled sea bass and the desserts made from Cape-gooseberry jelly (0057 1 745 5438, theorchidshotel.com).

CAFE JESUS MARTIN, Calento Baristas roast rare beans and craft stylish coffees at this lovely local bar-cafĂŠ (cafejesusmartin.com).

CARMEN, Hotel Anandå, Cartagena The contemporary styling and daring fusions – corozo palm and lychee caviar, pork in fat-bottomed ant sauce – and a dreamy al fresco patio make this Cartagena’s finest choice for dinner. The hotel is a beauty, too (0057 5 660 6795, carmencartagena.com).

HARRY SASSON, Cartagena Opened in November last year by Colombia’s best-known chef, Harry Sasson, this cool, informal restaurant serves tasty tapas of ceviche, crab and squid as well as great steaks. Good wines served by the glass (0057 5 664 9446; hotelcharlestonsantateresa.com).

GOLDEN MOMENTS Clockwise from top: pool at Cartagena’s Tcherassi hotel; the Carmen restaurant; transport in the coffee triangle; the Moon over Cartagena; gold sculpture depicting indigenous lake dwellers

ALAMy; CAMERA PRESS/LAIF; ANGELA PHAM

WHAT NOT TO MISS Bogotå’s Museo del Oro (banrepcultural. org/gold-museum) is a well-designed exhibition exploring the role of gold and other precious metals over 3,500 years.

The city’s Museo Botero (banrepcultural. org/museo-botero) boasts an exceptional collection of modern European and American art, alongside paintings and sculptures by Fernando Botero.

THE BASICS When to go Colombia is just three degrees north of the equator; climate is linked to topography more than time of the year. December to February are the best months to visit, and October and November the wettest.

Body clock Colombia is GMT-5, so there is not much jetlag, although the direct night flight means you get there in the small hours. If arriving in BogotĂĄ, where the air is thin, allow a couple of days for slow, limited strolling.

Visas and vaccinations None required except for the Amazon region, where malaria prophylaxis and a yellow fever jab are recommended.

Currency The Colombian peso: $3,600 = ÂŁ1.

ultratravel 63

T HE ULT RAS

4corners

WIN A LUXURY HOLIDAY fOR TWO TO THAILAND

Nominate your travel favourites, from hotels to spas, in our Ultratravel 100 Awards for the chance to win a six-night holiday for two

The Prize

T H E VOT I N G CAT EG O R I E S

Three nights in Bangkok at the Anantara Siam Hotel followed by

AI R L I N E S AN d AI R p O RTS

three nights at the Anantara Phuket Layan Resort & Spa, with

From your experience of air travel in the past three years,

a return Bangkok flight for two.

which is the...

The Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel is known for its elegant decor – featuring traditional Thai architecture, hand-painted silk ceilings,

Best long-haul business class

a grand lobby and glorious gardens – as well as for its Anantara

Best long-haul first class

gurus, who are on hand to impart their knowledge of the city, from

Best airline lounge

silk boutiques and street-cuisine to hidden temples.

Best airport

By contrast, Anantara Phuket Layan Resort & Spa is a quiet retreat on Phuket’s west coast, overlooking Layan Beach and the

H OT E L S

Andaman Sea. The hotel has a large beachfront pool, offers

From your experience of hotels in the past three years, which is the...

a range of water sports and excursions, and has a spa.

Anantara is offering two return economy flights to Bangkok to the winner of this prize; the choice of airline, and city of departure, will depend on where the winner lives.

Two runners-up will each win a two-night stay for two, with breakfast, in a luxury European hotel that is a member

winning comBinATion Clockwise from top left: Layan Beach; Buddhas in Wat Po, Bangkok; a villa bathroom at Anantara Resort & Spa; Hotel Adlon in Berlin, a GHA member

Best in the UK Best in Europe Best in the Americas Best in Asia and Australasia

of Discovery, the loyalty programme of the Global Hotel Alliance.

Best in the Middle East

How to Enter

Best in Africa and the Indian Ocean

Nominate a winner in each of the 20 categories (right) and enter them, on the online form at telegraph.co.uk/theultras, wIth your name, address, postcode, year of birth, telephone number and email address, by midnight on Friday March 27 2015. On Monday May 18 2015 the winners will be announced at the Ultratravel 100

Best in the world Best luxury-hotel group

OT H E RS Which do you believe is the...

Best large luxury tour operator

Awards and published in Ultratravel on Saturday May 30 2015.

Best small luxury tour operator

Full terms and conditions can be found at the web address above.

Best luxury cruise line Best river cruise line Best spa Best golf resort Best ski resort Best country for a holiday

64 ultratravel

. y r a u t c n a s A private . t r a e h e h t r o f e m o Ah Carefree days of fun and laughter. Sunlit paths to beautiful horizons. Cocooned in paradise; delight awaits around every corner.

Retreat to a place made just for you; where every little detail is taken care of. Moments Enriched at The Residence.

tunis | mauritius | zanzibar | maldives

cenizaro.com

The epitome of excellence

GG PI<M? BP@NON M@>@DQ@ OC@ CDBC@NO NO<I?<M?N JA N@MQD>@ =PO >CJJN@ OJ NO<T DI < .P@@IN $MDGG JM -MDI>@NN $MDGG 0PDO@ <I? TJP]GG @IEJT <I PINPMK<NN@? G@Q@G JA GPSPMT N<TN )@RDN $M@@I

Refned and elegant: clockwise from main picture, taking a stroll on the Grills Terrace; a butler serving canapés in a Queens Grill Suite; exquisite food; a Queens Grill Grand Duplex Suite

There are plenty of seriously indulgent holiday situations in which you can imagine yourself.

There are very few in which you’ll be repeating an experience enjoyed by Clark Gable, Jackie Onassis and Nelson Mandela.

Imagine being shown to a sumptuous suite with a spacious balcony high above the sea.

There’s a bottle of bubbly waiting on ice and fresh strawberries to nibble while the butler unpacks your belongings and transfers them to the walk-in wardrobe.

Soon the concierge gets in touch. You book a treatment in the spa and a private wine tour or perhaps a sightseeing helicopter fight at your next destination. You’re reminded that there are some very special events happening over the next couple of days; maybe a performance by the National Symphony Orchestra or a talk by actress and artist Jane Seymour.

With a blast from a historic horn, the view from your balcony begins to slowly change as your ship glides out of port. Depending on where you’ve embarked that could be Southampton, New York,

one of four grand Mediterranean cities or somewhere exotic in a far-fung place. Donning your evening attire, you sip a favourite cocktail in an exclusive lounge before being welcomed into a beautiful dining room reserved only for Grills Suite guests for multi-course cuisine and wines to rival any leading city restaurant.

After dinner, perhaps you’ll take your seat in a private box at the Royal Court Theatre for an extravagant musical show.

Welcome to Cunard Grills, the ultimate cruising experience. This is not a new-fangled take on frst-class travel. In fact, the concept has taken a century to evolve and refne.

Cunard Grills, available on all three of the magnifcent Cunard Queens, is a private enclave within each ship available to those who relish the very best in accommodation, dining and service.

These days, all levels of accommodation on a Cunard ship are luxurious and elegant, yet those who choose the Queens Grill Suites or Princess Grill Suites fnd the experience elevated still further. Grills guests can embrace all the ships’

outstanding facilities, such as the open sundecks with pools, the plush multi-tiered theatre, the Canyon Ranch SpaClub – the largest spa afoat – the impressive ballroom, the designer shopping arcade, the casino and much more.

They can at any time retreat to the exclusive Grills Terrace or Grills Lounge, or indeed to the supreme comfort of their Grills Suite, and know that they can dine at the time of their pleasing in their Grills restaurant.

The Grills concept was frst conceived on Aquitania in 1914 and really came into its own with Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth in the late Thirties. Over the following decades, the exclusivity and fne dining of Cunard Grills attracted a large number of Hollywood stars, business tycoons and nobility who surrounded themselves in the epitome of excellence.

Today, the three Queens continue to offer discerning guests this most accomplished expression of Cunard’s prized hallmarks; an especially signifcant reward in the cruise line’s 175th anniversary year.

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

#<HJPN NK@<F@MN <I? K@MAJMH@MN Every Cunard sailing boasts a line-up of fascinating guest speakers from the worlds of broadcasting, politics, music, science or the arts, along with outstanding musical performances and glamorous gala nights.

Selected voyages in this 175th anniversary year will feature some especially illustrious names and very special events — reasons alone for choosing these departures.

BLUE NOTE

Cunard’s entertainment partnership with venerable jazz label Blue Note Records will debut on Queen Mary 2 on October 29, 2015.

Guests will embark on a special Transatlantic Crossing featuring jazz performances by the Blue Note 75th Anniversary All Star Band, Our Point of View.

Blue Note Records’ president, celebrated musician and producer Don Was, will also be participating in Q&A sessions. £Prices from £1,839pp, including flights and transfers, for a Balcony Stateroom.

jaNE sEymOUr

sUmpTUOUs sUiTEs, diviNE diNiNg

As you might expect, Queens Grill Suites and Princess Grill Suites offer accommodation that is easily the equivalent of a fve-star hotel.

You’ll fnd a marble bathroom with tub, separate living area with sofa and private verandah, ideal for relaxing or inviting new friends for a drink and canapés – served by the butler in Queens Grill Suites.

Each suite has a DVD player, personalised stationery, fridge and fruit basket. When it comes to a restful night’s sleep, there is a choice of up to nine pillow types.

The most breathtaking place to stay on any passenger ship must be the Queens Grill Grand Duplex Suite on Queen Mary 2, a 2,248sq ft, twin-level apartment with expansive living room, oversized balcony and a bedroom with separate marble bathroom.

All Grill Suites come with a host of thoughtful extras and in the highest level suites there are iPads, binoculars and a dining table – in-suite dining is available in all Grills Suites – plus the beneft of priority embarkation services.

The intimate Grills restaurants are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner at your leisure.

Here guests enjoy sophisticated à la carte menus created by talented chefs, paired with fne wines served by crisply uniformed waiters.

If you cannot see your favourite dish on the menu, the chefs will endeavour to prepare it, exactly the way you like it.

With tables dressed with Italian linen, Wedgwood china and Waterford crystal, the Grills dining experience is elegant yet relaxed.

In fne weather, guests on Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria can dine alfresco in the Grills Courtyard. Should you wish for a change of venue,

each Cunard Queen has a selection of speciality restaurants with themed menus of exceptional quality. The Grill Suites concierge will be happy to make your reservation.

ExhiLaraTiNg days, gLamOrOUs NighTs

All Cunard guests will fnd the on-board facilities a joy, with a tapestry of pampered relaxation, dazzling entertainment and opportunities for enrichment. Afternoon tea, served by whitegloved waiters in the Queens Room, is a delightful institution. This same lavish space hosts magical black-tie gala balls and cocktail parties. And if you haven’t danced to a live band for a while, the wonderful ballroom will soon see you perfecting your waltz or tango.

Cunard has the fnest programme of guest speakers at sea (see panel, right), with illustrious names regaling you with fascinating anecdotes.

For those who love to fll their days, there are art auctions, quizzes, workshops and, on Queen Mary 2, the world’s only foating planetarium.

At each port of call, the Grill Suites concierge will present an array of excursions and activities, both group and private, for you to make the most of your time ashore.

From walks with a guide who can bring a city’s history alive and visits to palaces or castles, to wine tastings and scenic drives, there is a carefully considered choice. But, this being Cunard, the crew prides itself on being able to meet any special requests.

£To fnd out how you could win an exclusive Grills guided tour of Queen Elizabeth on June 16, 2015 see page 51.

Another star on a Transatlantic Crossing will be actress and artist Jane Seymour, below. She will be on board Queen Mary 2 from New York to Southampton departing June 3, 2015.

Jane, who starred in Bond film Live and Let Die and the cult classic Somewhere in Time, will share her insights during two Q&A sessions.

Today she is known as a highly creative painter and will conduct a three-day painting workshop for guests. £Prices from £1,559pp including outward flight and transfers for a Balcony Stateroom.

ThE NsO

Classical music aficionados should put August 27, 2015, in their diary, as this is when Queen Mary 2

Greatest hits: Crosby, Stills & Nash starts her eight-night voyage to New York with the National Symphony Orchestra on board. Returning for the sixth time, the NSO will perform under acclaimed conductor Anthony Inglis, left.

The NSO will be seeking passengers to join a choir to participate in a gala concert. £Prices from £1,429pp including return flight and transfers for a Balcony Stateroom.

crOsBy, sTiLLs & Nash

Folk-rock supergroup Crosby, Stills & Nash will perform exclusive concerts on Queen Mary 2 during her Transatlantic Crossing departing New York on September 4, 2015.

The trio, who first performed together in the Sixties at Woodstock, will play some of their greatest hits and participate in a Q&A session and special autograph opportunity. £Prices from £1,599pp including outward flight and transfers for a Balcony Stateroom.

jULiaN LLOyd wEBBEr

sailing from New York to Southampton on October 11, 2015.

Providing an evening of stories and music, Lloyd Webber will take guests on a journey through his life and career. He will share rare video footage of him playing and talking with the likes of Sir Elton John and Yehudi Menuhin, plus his wife and fellow cellist Jiaxin will perform works by Andrew Lloyd Webber, Rachmaninov and Bach. £Prices from £1,379pp including outward flight and transfers for a Balcony Stateroom.

Big BaNd BaLL

To celebrate the fifth birthday of Queen Elizabeth, there will be a glittering Big Band Ball on the fivenight cruise from Southampton to Amsterdam and Bruges (from Zeebrugge) on October 2, 2015.

Guests will relive those heydays of swing and jazz, dancing to the ship’s own 14-piece band in the magnificent Queen’s Ballroom.

The evening commences with a black-tie gala dinner before guests whirl under the chandeliers to the sounds of Glenn Miller, Ella Fitzgerald, Frank Sinatra and more. £Prices start from £759pp for a Balcony Stateroom.

Renowned cellist Julian Lloyd Webber will join Queen Mary 2 for her

To find out more about Cunard’s 175th anniversary celebrations and special voyages during 2015, visit cunard.co.uk/telegraph

VIENNESE NIGHTS The rooftop bar at Hotel LamĂŠe, with a view of Stephansdom cathedral; The MuseumsQuartier, right

68 ultratravel

U LTRA ciTy

Waltz to a NEW BEAT The once sedate city of Vienna has rediscovered the creative spirit that fuelled its fin de siècle heyday.

Stephanie Rafanelli goes behind the gothic spires, Habsburg palaces and bourgeois bakeries to find an artistic capital in step with the 21st century

ultratravel 69

old horse, new tricks Clockwise from right: Le Loft on the 18th floor of the Sofitel; a Lipizzaner horse at the Spanish Riding School; a dish of blood pudding, beetroot and wood sorrel at Konstantin Filippou; Motto am Fluss, the Modernist waterside cafĂŠ which doubles as a mooring station. Inset, opposite: Self-Portrait by Egon Schiele, in the Leopold Museum

70 ultratravel

ULTRA ci Ty

Rose-hued

I used to think of the Austrian capital as a dowdy grande dame. Today, she is a soigné young woman dressed in classic Chanel

tangerine clouds roll out high over the city of Vienna like a Turneresque sunset. The fiery sky forms a canopy that extends from the Belvedere Palace to the east, across the gothic towers of Stephansdom cathedral, to the Rathaus, the town hall, in the west. Such is my view from Le Loft, the 18th-floor bar and restaurant of the Sofitel Hotel.

The Vienna-on-fire effect is, in fact, an optical illusion: a reflection in the 360-degree surrounding glass walls of Le Loft’s illuminated ceiling by the visual artist Pipilotti Rist.

Vienna is a city looking at itself through a 21st-century prism.

“Schön, ja?” drawls a soigné Austrian woman in her late thirties sipping Aperol Spritz next to me at the bar.

“I normally spend all my time in New York or Berlin, cities with energy,” she tells me. “Vienna made me feel old. But, it’s changed. Wien is cool now — it’s sexy.” She runs her fingers through her hair, a sleek black bob streaked with a single line of electric blue: a contemporary accent to her classic Chanel ensemble.

I used to think of the Austrian capital as a dowdy grande dame, suffocatingly corseted, and weighed down by too many petticoats.

But if the spirit of today’s city were a woman, then my drinking partner would be its new incarnation.

My memories of Vienna had always been tinged by a cloying stuffiness. I first came here as a child, dragged by my parents through the Habsburg’s collections of Titians, Brueghels and Velazquezes in stuccoed rooms that looked as if they were built out of wedding cake. I felt like I’d overdosed on sickly pink marzipan. Yet there was a maverick spirit lurking beneath the city’s gilded surfaces.

I later discovered the disturbed self-portrait of Egon Schiele; the works of iconoclastic Secessionists Gustav Klimt, Koloman Moser and architect Otto Wagner, the forerunners of our contemporary art gallerists; and the city’s Kaffeehäuser, where in 1913 revolutionary ideas began to tick like time bombs in the minds of Sigmund Freud, Leon Trotsky, Joseph Stalin and a failed watercolourist called Adolf Hitler. But the city had slipped into a century of lethargy.

Today, like a Sleeping Beauty, Vienna’s audacious spirit has finally been resurrected. A spate of hotel openings and renovations, contemporary galleries and Michelin-star restaurants has reawakened the comatose bourgeois city like a shot of adrenalin to its heart. Where once only the steeples of Stephansdom, the Rathaus and the city’s churches dominated the skyline, there are now buzzing rooftop bars from which to view them – at thrillingly vertiginous heights. Traditional, family-run milliners, cobblers and glove-makers have been joined by young, avant-garde fashion and furniture designers and global fashion empires. In the new Vienna, it’s possible to

go for a reviving swim at a pool in a former bank vault before a tour of the Hofburg Imperial Palace; visit Mozart’s Figarohaus in the afternoon and dance to a Beethoven remix in a club in a former underground pedestrian walkway at night.

The apotheosis of this best-of-old-and-new philosophy is the Park Hyatt in Am Hof square, Austria’s first Hyatt, at the heart of the first district. Formerly the headquarters of the National Bank of Austria, the sandstone art nouveau building, which opened to guests last summer, has been sensitively restored to provide a new level of contemporary Viennese glamour to rival that of New York.

When I arrive at the Hyatt, youthful concierges buzz about in the vast oak-panelled and marble lobby, which features two enormous 19th-century Austrian landscapes. “You absolutely must go to Mochi’s in Leopoldstadt,” I overhear one say. “It’s the best sashimi in town.”

The curved back of a modern leather couch in the lobby’s centre, in the style of star designer Matteo Thun, is a gentle reminder of the organic flowing forms of the art nouveau movement, as are the giant blown-up brooches and hairpins exhibited in its suites and corridors, an oblique reference to the paraphernalia of Viennese balls. The original marble banking hall now doubles as the hotel’s restaurant and contemporary art gallery. I order an espresso in the silver art deco coffee lounge: the pièce de résistance here is an original mother-of-pearl mosaic column that leads to a mirrored staircase inspired by the one Coco Chanel had in her Parisian apartment.

The couture salon allusions are apt. Next to the Park Hyatt Vienna is the Prada store in a similarly notable building, its interior designed by the architect Roberto Baciocchi, complete with black marquina marble staircase and Verner Panton sofas. This store and the Hyatt make up part of the new award-winning Golden Quarter, a U-shaped luxury shopping district that comprises the traditional boutiques in Kohlmarkt and Graben, as well as an Alexander McQueen store and Louis Vuitton’s largest outlet in Europe.

The Hyatt’s debut, and the launch of a Kempinski hotel in Palais Hansen two years ago, have had a domino effect on some of Vienna’s luxury institutions, which have undertaken their own renovations. One is the Hotel Imperial — the Grand Budapest Hotel of Vienna — built by the Duke of Württermberg in 1863, where I stayed on my first trip to Vienna. The updated Elisabeth Suite (Room 222), where my parents once slept, is the same, but pristine: cream damask wallpaper, chaise longue and a leather-studded Napoleonic bed.

The hotel’s recent extension offers respite from the relentless ornateness, the art deco-style cake shop, café and restaurant fitted with red velvet banquettes to draw in a younger, hipper ultratravel 71

The Authority on World Travel & Tourism

Have your say on the future of Travel & Tourism.

As the forum for business leaders in the Travel & Tourism industry, the World Travel & Tourism Council works to raise awareness of the sector as one of the world’s largest industries, which generates almost 10% of the world economy and supports 1 of every 11 jobs on the planet.

WTTC aims to promote an understanding of the importance of Travel & Tourism through the quality of its economic research and the knowledge and experience of its members, who include over 100 chief executives of the world’s leading Travel & Tourism companies.

These leaders of the private sector come together with Heads of State, Ministers of Tourism and thought leaders from many fields to explore the future opportunities and challenges of Travel & Tourism through high-profile Summit meetings.

Global Summit: Madrid, Spain, 15-16 April 2015 Attendance at this event is limited, but now – thanks to the power of social media and the internet – everyone can engage with the issues, listen to the debates and make a personal contribution to them.

Join the Summit debates live online at www.wttc.org @WTTC

/WTTC

gplus.to/wttc

crowd. In the restaurant, I can’t help staring – in awe – at a tiny Austrian woman who elegantly polishes off a Wiener schnitzel the size of the Gobi Desert in less than two minutes.

I’ve suffered from chronic schnitzel fatigue on previous visits to Vienna, but since then the Viennese culinary scene has been radically shaken up – helped, in part, by the diverse influences of the city’s large migrant population. Most interesting is Konstantin Filippou, the half-Austrian, half-Greek chef with a Michelin star, who had previously worked under Gordon Ramsay, JeanChristophe Novelli and Heinz Reitbauer at the twice Michelinstarred Steirereck in the Stadtpark, where the waiting time for a table is eight weeks.

At Filippou’s, I nab the best seat in the house for lunch: the slate-grey kitchen table opposite the kitchen, where I glimpse Konstantin’s mass of curly black hair bob up and down. He is part conductor, part mad scientist. The design of this place is minimal: Turkish lamps hang on bare, grey walls over simple ash wood tables; it’s all about the food here. Young waiters carry out sixplate menus: duck-liver parfait rolled in beetroot, with grilled

tiled roof of the 12th-century Stephansdom. I’ve heard the best view here is on the top-floor terrace at Hotel Lamée in a Thirties building named after the Austrian-born Hollywood actress Hedy Lamaar. From the ninth floor, the cathedral towers are so close I feel as if I could catch pigeons with my bare hands. Ludwig van Beethoven realised the extent of his deafness when he saw birds flee from the bell tower, but heard nothing.

In Haus der Musik, the city’s innovative museum of sound, there is an installation of five listening devices that allows me to experience the deterioration of the composer’s hearing while looking at Pop Art portraits of the Viennese greats: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Johann Strauss, Gustav Mahler, Josef Haydn. On my way out, I listen on my iPod to Mozart’s Requiem Mass and the warbles of Lacrimosa to watch the 23,000 tiles of the Stephensdom turn from blue and grey to gold in the dwindling sunlight.

To catapult myself back into the 21st century, I take the U-Bahn to Donauinsel, an island in the Danube River, to the Sky Bar on the 58th floor of the 787ft-tall DC Tower 1. Designed by the French architect Dominique Perrault, it is the the tallest building in Austria and houses the city’s futuristic hotel, Meliá Vienna. Here I meet Ildiko, a Berlin fashion designer who takes me to Roberto American Bar, a late-night drinking den. It’s like stepping into Twenties New York. To the sounds of Satchmo, I sip a Sweet and Sour Symphony (vodka, elderflower liqueur, raspberry and lemon juice) on a velvet banquette.

Groggy the next morning, I hire a city bike and take a trip the Naschmarkt, the food market, to pick up some bread and cheese for a picnic in the Stadtpark’s English gardens. I enjoy a heavy brunch of cheese made with truffle and honey, and traditional Bergkäse (mountain cheese) topped with apricots, and slip into a blissful lactose coma.

That evening, I sit in the lower ring of the stuccoed Spanische Hofreitschule (the world famous Spanish Riding School) in the Hofburg, looking down on Lipizzaner stallions that look carved out of marble, as they pirouette and cabriole to a Strauss waltz with all the haughtiness of prima ballerinas. Their equestrian ballet in a hushed, imperial setting — combined with a fading hangover — is making me feel quite lachrymose. Some Viennese traditions should never be reinvented.

The restaurant scene has been radically shaken up, in part thanks to Vienna’s big migrant population langoustine, apple and seaweed; suckling pig with eggplant and kimchi; peach with a curd ball in a green skin of dill oil.

Konstantin’s intricate and innovative creations are a natural progression from his mixed culinary heritage, which is a fusion of the fruits of the Ionian Sea and the Graz countryside.

The food is so light, I’ve digested it within an hour, but I still need a shot of caffeine to resuscitate me from my pleasure stupor.

The coffee-house culture in Vienna is listed as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage” by Unesco; the Viennese claim to have invented the process of filtering coffee when Turkish forces left behind 100 sacks of coffee beans when they abandoned the Ottoman siege of the city in 1683. I avoid Café Central – the former local of Freud, Lenin and Trotsky, and now a tourist trap – and take a tram to Café Prückel, which celebrated its centenary last year. It is situated between Otto Wagner’s modernist Postsparkasse post office, which looks like the set of a Fritz Lang film, and MAK, the city’s Museum of Applied Arts.

P

rückel was partly redesigned in the Fifties by Oswald Haerdtl with a neon sign, gooseberry-coloured seats and Formica tables and is eternally fashionable. Its habitués are young design types and literati, but I’m most charmed by its older patrons: two ladies dressed in matching lavender hats playing a very competitive game of bridge.

The Viennese have mastered many important arts of civilisation – from the etiquette of serving coffee (always with a glass of water) to museum curation. To avoid what they call here die Qual der Wahl (the agony of choice), I limit myself to visiting exhibitions at two of the city’s 100 institutions. In March 2013, the Kunsthistorisches Museum debuted the Kunstkammer, the “Cabinet of Curiosities” originated by Rudolf II, Holy Roman Emperor from 1572 to 1612, and continued by subsequent Habsburg collectors. I saunter through 600 years of rare treasures under frescoed ceilings – from 16th-century religious busts to chess sets, 13th-century Venetian glassware, gilded bronze cabinets and spring-operated clocks and automatons – without any soporific side effects.

In fact, the 19th-century Habsburg clan are much more colourful than I had remembered. The perfectly restored Winter Palace of Prince Eugene of Savoy opened its doors for the first time in 2013; it is the sister palace to Belvedere, which houses the world’s biggest collection of paintings by Gustav Klimt. When I visit, the Winter Palace’s baroque interior — which includes the wondrous golden cabinet room, its powder-blue walls painted by Franz Zogelmann — is offset by contemporary works by Grayson Perry, Sean Scully, Christopher Wool and Yayoi Kusama, alongside a permanent collection that includes Rubens and Van Dyke.

By the time I leave, the sun is beginning to drop behind the

cafe society Chef Konstantin Filippou, top, is behind the city’s most talked-about restaurant; the elegant café at the Kunsthistorisches Museum, above. Below: Café Prückel, which still has its distinctive Fifties interiors by Oswald Haerdtl

Kirker Holidays (020 7593 2283; kirkerholidays.com) offers three nights at the Park Hyatt from £1,069 per person, the Kempinski Palais Hansen from £892 per person, The Hotel Sacher from £1,029 per person or The Imperial from £1,025 per person. Prices are based on two sharing, and include breakfast, flights from London Heathrow, private transfers, a ticket that allows entry to the Kunsthistorisches and Leopold museums, and Kirker’s concierge service.

ultratravel 73

SMALL SHIP CRUISING WITH NOBLE CALEDONIA – BOOK EARLY AND SAVE £1000 PER PERSON

AEGEAN & ADRIATIC ODYSSEY A voyage from Istanbul to Venice aboard the MV Tere Moana - 18th June to 2nd July 2016 Anyone who has sailed around the islands of the Aegean and along the coast of the Adriatic will tell you that it is one of the most beautiful places on earth. The combined effect of the natural beauty of the islands and coast with the intriguing history and stunning architecture of its towns and cities make for an unforgettable journey.

There is no shortage of vessels plying the waters between the Aegean and Venice.

However, what we offer aboard the MV Tere Moana is something special, a private yacht trip with just 90 guests aboard one of the most comfortable small ships in the world. Our journey will be particularly enjoyable as it includes some day time sailing, allowing for time to relax on deck as you enjoy the magnifcent views. We will sail through turquoise waters, call into whitewashed villages, admire rugged landscape and visit some of the region’s greatest sites in the company of knowledgeable local guides. For breathtaking natural beauty and unspoiled isles, this corner of antiquity offers a wonderfully tranquil and peaceful atmosphere. discovered Troy and “Priam’s Treasure”, the jewels that Schliemann claimed were worn by Helen of Troy.

Day 3 - Chios, Greece. The birthplace of Homer,

MV Tere Moana The newly renovated MV Tere Moana accommodates just 90 guests and features 45 spacious staterooms with ocean view, temperature control, king-size bed, bathroom with full-size shower and bath products, desk/ vanity area with TV, CD/DVD player, complimentary in-room movie channels, Bose sound docking station, direct–dial satellite telephone, personal safe and refrigerator. The spacious and fnely decorated public rooms are spread across all decks and include two restaurants, Le Salon, a comfortable area with inviting seating where after a day of exploration, is the perfect place to enjoy cocktails, conviviality and live piano music. There is also a book and DVD library which is open 24 hours. The sun deck offers a chance to relax and unwind in the whirlpool, or just soak up the sun on a Balinese bed or a chaise lounge. There is also a pool, ftness centre and spa.

The Itinerary in Brief Day 1 - London to Istanbul, Turkey. Fly by scheduled fight and upon arrival transfer to the MV Tere Moana. Set sail after dinner.

Day 2 - Canakkale, Turkey. This afternoon we call at Canakkale, our gateway for Troy, where ongoing archaeological excavations have revealed nine different layers of cities superimposed in rings on a massive mound rising above the Plain of Ilium.

It was to one of these cities, as legend has it, that the Greeks fought the Trojans as told by Homer in the Iliad. Our tour follows the excavations made

by Heinrich Schliemann, the archaeologist who

Chios remained a signifcant Aegean island into the Byzantine period. Chios’s volcanic rock formations and deep green valleys forge a landscape of stunning colour oppositions and intricate appearances. The island is rich in ancient ruins and we will visit the 11th century Monastery of Nea Moni, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most important ecclesiastical monuments in Greece.

Day 4 - Delos & Mykonos, Greece. This morning we visit Delos, which though the smallest of the Cyclades was once the political and religious centre for the whole of the Aegean. Explore the magnifcent archaeological site including the marble sanctuary of Apollo. During lunch sail for nearby Mykonos for an afternoon at leisure.

Day 5 - Nafplio, Greece. Nafplio’s sheltered location below a rocky headland and large natural fortress crowned by a Venetian castle is perhaps unrivalled in Greece. From here we will enjoy a scenic drive through the Argos Plain, once ruled by Agamemnon, conqueror of Troy, to the famous citadel of Mycenae where we will explore the Royal Palace, the shaft graves and the remains of the city walls. Return to the MV Tere Moana for lunch and enjoy an afternoon at leisure.

Day 6 - Corinth Canal & Itea, Greece. This morning sail through the four mile long, 70 foot Corinth Canal, the most dramatic canyon in the Mediterranean and arrive into Itea during lunch. From the harbour, we will drive through lush olive groves up to Delphi, stunningly situated upon a mountain terrace. See the temple of Apollo, the theatre and the ancient stadium, the best preserved in Greece.

Day 7 - Kefalonia, Greece. The largest of the Ionian Islands, Kefalonia is immortalised in the novel Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. Kefalonia’s reputation for wine dates backs to Homeric times and so, this morning, we will take the chance to visit one of the local vineyards for a wine tasting of the local Robala variety.

Day 8 - Otranto, Italy. From the port of Otranto we will drive to Lecce, often referred to as ‘The Florence

of the South’ with its amazing collection of Baroque architecture including an abundance of churches and noble palaces decorated with the “leccese stone”, a chalky stone ranging in colours which became the local style due to its ease to work with. A guided tour will include a visit to the beautifully decorated Santa Croce Basilica and Piazza Duomo, considered one of the fnest and most impressive squares in Southern Italy. After the tour, there will be an exclusive, private visit to the 15th century Palazzo Tamborino-Cezzi. The owner of the palazzo will personally take us on a tour, sharing interesting stories and anecdotes regarding his family and the palazzo itself. Enjoy a light lunch of local specialities before a concert of traditional music of the Salento region called La Pizzica.

Day 9 - Kotor, Montenegro & Dubrovnik, Croatia.

In the early morning we will enter the stunningly beautiful Kotor Fjord in Montenegro. Be on deck to enjoy this lovely spot as we make our way up the fjord past towering mountains and tiny islands to the town of Kotor. Enjoy a walk through the little courts and squares faced with Renaissance buildings to the 12th century cathedral of St Tryphon. Return to the vessel for lunch and sail for Dubrovnik. In the Old Town of Dubrovnik lies the monumental Gothic–Renaissance Sponza Palace, one of the most beautiful palaces in the city. This evening we are delighted to have arranged a private performance at the Palace by the Sorkocevic Quartet.

Day 10 - Dubrovnik, Croatia. Dubrovnik is a breathtaking sight and its many historic and cultural treasures have earned it the designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This morning our local guides will lead us through the bustling old town. This afternoon and evening are free for further exploration of this remarkable city.

Day 11 - Mljet & Korcula, Croatia. This morning we will call into the idyllic island of Mljet. This is one of the few Dalmatian islands that were never ruled by the Venetians, which is apparent in the architecture and the absence of any sizeable historic town. What it lacks in terms of great architecture it more than makes up for in natural beauty and we will visit the National Park including its beautiful lakes. During lunch sail for Korcula and this afternoon enjoy a guided walk along Korcula’s crooked streets.

Day 12 - Hvar & Split, Croatia. This morning sail into the harbour of Hvar. Explore the old town, the palatial quarter of Grad and the more humble residential area of Burg. During lunch sail over to Split, an ancient city centred around the formidable Palace of Diocletian, built in AD295. An extensive structure, much of which is well preserved, the palace contains within its walls Split’s Medieval town, making it the only palace that has been continuously inhabited since Roman times.

Day 13 - Rovinj, Croatia. After a morning at sea we will call into the atmospheric town of Rovinj, situated on the Istrian Peninsula. Our guided walking tour will include a visit to the town’s main landmark, St. Euphemia church.

Day 14 - Piran, Slovenia. Sitting pretty at the tip of a narrow peninsula, Piran is everyone’s favourite place on the Slovenian coast. On our full day tour we will drive inland to the pristine Lake Bled which contains the only island in Slovenia. Travel over to the island on small wooden boats, known as pletna, that have been plying the lake since the 12th century.

Day 15 - Venice, Italy to London. Disembark after breakfast and transfer to the airport for your return fight to London.

Prices and Inclusions Special offer prices per person based on double occupancy range from £6895 for a category C stateroom to £8595 for a category A balcony stateroom. Staterooms for sole use from £8895.

Price Includes: Economy class scheduled air travel, 14 nights aboard the MV Tere Moana on a full board basis with house wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner onboard, Noble Caledonia Tour Manager, Guest Speaker, shore excursions, gratuities to crew and on excursions, transfers and port taxes.

NB. Ports and itinerary subject to change. All special offers are subject to availability. Travel insurance and visa are not included in the price. Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations.

Call us today on 020 7752 0000 for your copy of our brochure.

Alternatively view or request online at www.noble-caledonia.co.uk

The ULTRA GUIDE TO VIENNA

THE 5 BEST HoTElS

country in 1938. But there’s more to the

salad and a glass of crisp Grüner

grocery store at the ship terminal

hotel than history. The secret of the

Veltliner (the classic Austrian wine

Wien-City on the banks of the Danube

Imperial is bespoke service and

accompaniment).

Canal. It’s the perfect place for coffee or

HOTEL SACHER

meticulous attention to detail: personal

Schulerstrasse 4 (0043 1 512 0302;

breakfast outdoors on a Sunday, when

Anna Sacher is a legendary figure in

butlers are on hand and all the rooms

dombeisl.at)

everything else in Vienna is shut. Next

Vienna, a cigar-smoking, trouser-

are stocked with Bulgari toiletries.

wearing matriarch, whose father-in-law

Kärntner Ring 16 (0043 1 501 100;

KONSTANTIN FILIPPOU

board a ship moored in the canal with

Franz invented Sachertorte (apricot-

imperialvienna.com; doubles from €385)

The atmosphere at Filippou’s buzzes

deckchairs for lounging in the sun.

with culinary anticipation. Who

Motto am Fluss, Schwedenplatz 2

door is Badeschiff, a restaurant on

filled chocolate cake) when he worked at Demel, the city’s famous Royal cake

PALAIS COBURG

knows what Konstantin will dream up

(0043 1 2525 510, motto.at). Badeschiff,

supplier. After she died in 1933, the

William Hague, the former Foreign

next? Whatever it is, it is never style

Donaukanallände (0043 660 312 4703,

hotel was taken over by another family:

Secretary, resigned from his post the

over content and always thrills his

badeschiff.at)

the Gürtlers, who are now the fourth-

day after staying here during a UN

customers, from the saffron foam

generation owners. Floors one to four

conference. That’s not surprising.

and sea-bream tartare appetiser to

were renovated in 2012 with traditional

A stay at Palais Coburg would make

the petit fours. There are two menus:

damask and toile de jouy wallpaper in

anyone reevaluate their lives. Built by

the business lunch (three courses for

J&L LOBMEYR

cream, mint and duck-egg blue.

Prince Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg in

€28.50/£21.50) or the main menu

A Lobmeyr chandelier has been an

The Restaurant Anna Sacher, with its

1845 with an unobscured view of the

(four courses with wine for €121).

exquisitely crafted status symbol since

emerald-green velvet walls and black

Ringstrasse, the palace incorporates

Dominikanerbastei 17 (0043 1 512

the business opened in 1895. These

Napoleonic-style chairs, is gorgeous,

the only surviving ruins of Vienna’s old

2229; konstantinfilippou.com)

glass pieces hang in hotels and palaces

as are the Restaurant Rote Bar and the

medieval walls. The hotel has six

Blaue Bar, which both have ceiling-to-

wine cellars housed in the city’s old

MOCHI

baroque, art nouveau, art deco and

carpet colour schemes.

casemates, including rare vintages of

If you grow tired of Austrian cuisine,

mid-century incarnations. More

Philharmoniker Strasse 4

Château Mouton Rothschild and

Mochi is the place to come for sushi

portable are glass vases, objets d’art

(0043 1 514560; sacher.com; doubles

Château d’Yquem — it was recently

with an imaginative twist. It doesn’t

and sweet dishes, designed by, for

from €510/£379)

voted one of the most important wine

seem to matter that the names

example, the Viennese architect

collections in the world. Each of the

behind the restaurant are Berliners:

Oswald Haerdtl. Thankfully, the

PARK HYATT VIENNA

residence’s 35 suites is different:

Tobias Müller and Edi Dimant. The

shop ships worldwide.

A former bank, with soaring ceilings and

Stefanie and Clementine, named after

design by Kohlmayr Lutter Knapp

Kärntner Strasse 26 (0043 1 512 0508;

impressive walls of marble, as well as

the Coburg princesses, have roll-top

is reminiscent of a Fifties Kyoto

lobmeyr.at)

warm wood-panelled living rooms in

baths, parquet floors and silk bedlinen.

sushi restaurant.

which to hunker down by fires with

Coburgbastei 4 (0043 1 518 180;

Praterstrasse 15 (0043 1 925 1380;

SCHEER & SOHNE

Sachertorte. All 143 rooms are

palais-coburg.com; doubles from €595)

mochi.at)

What is the ultimate luxury? A pair of

decorated in muted gold, brown and taupe hues, and feature parquet floors and mosaic alongside high-tech toys.

EvElyn Rois & BRuno stuBEnRauch/laif/camERa PREss; austRian national touRist officE/PEtER BuRgstallER; achim BiEniEk; michaEl RzEPa

The swimming pool, featuring a gold-

THE 4 BEST RESTAURANTS

THE 2 BEST SHoPS

all around the city – in Murano,

CULTURE AND CUISINE Top: a palatial stairway in the Imperial Hotel, a former royal residence; boiled veal, hummus, carrot, cous cous and chick peas, served in the Silvio Nickol Restaurant in the Palais Coburg

THE 3 BEST CAFES

handmade shoes from Rudolf Scheer and Söhne, the Austrian answer to Lobb and the official imperial supplier

ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL

to the Habsburgs (Franz Josef’s wooden

You’ll have to battle to get an outdoor

last is still here). Styles are classic and

table at Zum Schwarzen Kameel

timeless, such as a pair of brown

opposite Prada in the Golden Quarter.

button-up leather or purple suede ankle

coined bottom, is housed in the old

CLEMENTINE IM GLASHAUS

banking vault that still has in its walls

It would be enough to come to

the original safe door.

Clementine’s and just eat bread and

Am Hof 2 (0043 1 227 401 234; vienna.

butter: the butter is foamed into a light

This café-cum-patisserie-cum-

boots. The former costs around £4,000

park.hyatt.com; doubles from €375)

whipped cream with crunchy Maldon

restaurant, dating back to 1618, is a

and takes up to six months to make.

sea salt and served with oven-fresh

Viennese establishment and the

Bräunerstrasse 4 (0043 1 533 8084;

PALAIS HANSEN KEMPINSKI VIENNA

graubrot (“grey bread”). This exciting

inspiration for Corbin & King’s

www.scheer.at)

new restaurant in the Palais Coburg’s

Austrian-inspired cafés, The Delauney

The straight lines, walnut wood doors

former greenhouse is led by

and Fischer’s, in London. The salmon

and art deco furniture of the Palais

twentysomething head chef Martin

tartare with salmon caviar and quail’s

Hansen would make Modernist

Nuart, who worked under Silvio Nickol

egg is impossible to beat.

GALLERIES AND MUSEUMS

architect Adolf Loos proud. Retire to the

in the hotel’s two-Michelin-starred

Bognergasse 5 (0043 1 53 381 2511;

Secession, Friedrichstrasse 12

cigar room (legal smoking dens can be

restaurant. Dishes include chicken in

kameel.at)

(secession.at); Leopold Museum,

found all over the city) for brandy and a

popcorn breadcrumbs with sweet

Cuban cigar, following dinner at Edvard

radicchio, corn purée and Thai corn

DO & CO ALBERTINA

(leopoldmuseum.org); Kunstkammer

under the command of the Michelin-

served on a lavender plate, and stewed

It’s all about the ceiling in Vienna,

Wien and Kunsthistorisches Museum

starred chef Philipp Vogel.

plums and potato dumplings with

and the Do & Co café at the Albertina

(khm.at); Winter Palace of Prince

Schottenring 24 (0043 1 236 1000;

cinnamon cream and nut butter.

museum, which houses one of the

Eugene of Savoy, Himmelpfortgasse 8

kempinski.com; doubles from €330)

Coburgbastei 4 (0043 1 5181 8114,

world’s most important art

(0043 1 7955 7134; belvedere.at);

palais-coburg.com)

collections, is no exception. One

Haus Der Music, Seilerstätte 30 (0043

hundred white butterflies flit across

1 513 4850; hausdermusik.at); The

HOTEL IMPERIAL

BEST oF THE REST

MuseumsQuartier, Museumsplatz 1

The Imperial is part-hotel, part-

DOM BIESL

its ceiling – or maybe they are

Spanish Riding School, Michaelerplatz 1

museum. Some of the 61 suites still

The traditional biesl is the Austrian

leaves on a branch. There’s also

(0043 1 533 9031; srs.at)

have their original 10ft-high doors, and

version of the Italian trattoria. One of

a chandelier in the washroom.

on the historic marble-pillared staircase

the most recent additions to the scene

The fare is international.

NIGHTLIFE

is a gallery of portraits of Franz Josef I

is Dom Biesl, a small restaurant near

Albertinaplatz 1 (0043 1 532 9669;

Meliá, Donau-City-Strasse 7 (0043 1

and Sisi by the royal painter Franz

Stephensplaz. Guess what? It already

doco.com)

90104; melia.com); the rooftop bar at

Xaver Winterhalter. Adolf Hitler will

has a Michelin star. Enjoy a perfect

have marched down these stairs when

modern Wiener schnitzel made with

MOTTO AM FLUSS

(0043 1 532 2240; hotellamee.com);

he stayed in the hotel after his

organic veal cooked by chef Thomas

Motto am Fluss is a design café,

Roberto American Bar, Bauernmarkt

government’s annexation of his home

Wohlfarter and served with potato

restaurant, lounge, bar and high-end

11-13 (robertosbar.com)

Hotel Lamée, Rotenturmstrasse 15,

ultratravel 75

U LT RA vi L LAs

MY PRIVATE AFRICA

Nothing in South Africa beats staying in your own house, complete with its own staff, guide, wildlife â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and even helicopter.

We jet between four of the best in the bush and by the sea words LISA GRAINGER 76 ultratravel

HOT HOUSE Leobo private safari house, with its own observatory â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and 19,800 acres of land. Far left: the pool at The Black House

ultratravel 77

FO R T HE A DV ENTURO US A ESTH ETE

Leobo Private Reserve

There aren’t many buildings that could be described as sexy.

But with its curvaceous walls, sensual fabrics and endorphininducing gadgets, Leobo is one hot house. Set on 19,800 acres in the Waterberg area, three hours’ drive north of Johannesburg, the bush retreat is the holiday home of Rory Sweet, a British computer millionaire-turned-polar explorer. Designed by Lesley Carstens and Silvio Rech (who concocted the pretty marine interiors at North Island in the Seychelles), it’s a sophisticated contemporary hideaway for those who value their privacy.

In both (enormous) master suites, glass walls fold back to reveal a carved leadwood four-poster bed, rain-showers with views and an egg-shaped bath for two. In the living area, a full hippo skeleton hangs, illuminated, over the dining table like a cool chandelier and the fire-lit snug area is upholstered with wildebeest hides.

Outdoors, stairs lead up to a rooftop Jacuzzi for spectacular sunset soaks, and down to a cushioned fire-pit area for starwatching at night. And, up two flights of stairs in the well-stocked library, decorated with ephemera from skulls and antique sextants to a space suit, sits the best toy of all: a research-grade telescope, which by day can be set up through the retractable domed roof to focus on the sun’s flamed surface and at night swivelled on to the rings of Saturn. Sweet can access it from his Gloucestershire home so he can see the African skies from there.

While many guests won’t want to leave the house, thrill-seekers might like to try the other toys parked outside, which range from a space-like Polaris cross-country vehicle and 400cc quad bikes to mountain bikes and a helicopter (from which to parachute, see the country or flit to mountains to see ancient rock art). There are horses stabled nearby, too, for guests who fancy riding.

The private chef whips up inventive, if perhaps slightly too ambitious meals, served with wines from a considerable cellar.

Nearby attractions Sweet has stocked the land with plains game only (no dangerous animals) so guests can camp, run and ride in safety. Within an hour’s drive you can reach: the 91,500-acre Welgevonden Game Reserve, stocked with the Big Five (welgevonden.org); Legend Golf and Safari Resort, which has Africa’s highest golf tee (legendgolfsafari.com); Horizon Horseback, renowned for its horse-back safaris (ridinginafrica.com).

Cost Leobo Private Reserve (leoboprivatereserve.com) costs from £2,300 for up to six adults and three children per night, inclusive of food, drinks and activities (horses and helicopter trips cost extra).

FO R TH E FA M I LY SA FA R I

Jembisa

When Charles Whitbread, of the British brewing family, and his Zambian-born wife Jane had children, the thing they most wanted to give them was an African childhood. This explains why Jembisa, in the Waterberg region, is so idyllic for families — it was designed as a family home. Built of local stone and thatch in a malaria-free zone, the six-bedroomed double-storey, which is let exclusively to single groups, is surrounded by pretty landscaped gardens that drop through bush to the Palala River.

Its interiors are comfortable and unpretentious – think elegant Home Counties meets colonial Africa – and are furnished with

78 ultratravel

From the pool I saw whales pass by and from bed at night was mesmerised by waves crashing on to the cliffs below

BOND LAIR Clockwise from left: the pool at The Cove; the hippo-skeleton chandelier at Leobo; traditional comforts at Jembisa; elephant riding in the Waterberg; The Cove in its wild setting; the dining room in The Black House

antiques, soft sofas, local art, shelves of books, games and toys in

supermarkets, a French bakery and seafood restaurants.

the playroom, and beds with linen embroidered with wildlife.

Nearby attractions Watersports on Knysna Lagoon; horse-riding,

Jembisa’s greatest asset is its privacy: the house is situated on

hiking, biking and abseiling in the forests; riding ostriches in

a 7,500-acre estate stocked by the Whitbreads with plains game,

Oudtshoorn; hiking in the Tsitsikamma Forest; golfing at

including zebra and giraffe. The absence of the Big Five means

neighbouring Pezula, which also has a spa; Birds of Eden aviary,

you’re free not just to go on bush walks, but to go jogging, explore

Monkeyland primate sanctuary, and Knysna Botanical Gardens.

on mountain bikes, fish and hike the massive sandstone cliffs,

Cost The Cove (perfecthideaways.co.za) costs £1,035 per night for

some decorated with San rock art.

eight, with cleaner and housekeeper.

Many of the genial staff have been there for more than a decade, and clearly love their work. The food, cooked by chef David Kekena and pastry chef Portia Ngobeni, is delicious, fresh

FOR TH E D E SIGN LOVE R

The Black House

and varied, from rich kudu stew and Asian-style wraps to light-asair cakes for tea. There are surprise picnics on game walks, starlit

That The Black House is one of the most beautiful coastal homes

dinners in the bush, and breakfasts on a deck overlooking the river

in Africa should come as no surprise when you know who its

(with a nanny on hand to help those with little ones in tow).

owners are. Trevyn McGowan started the country’s Southern Guild

While Jembisa is not a place to see big game or gain serious

Design Fair, which exhibits and exports the work of South Africa’s

bush skills, the rangers are ideal for first-timers and children, who

leading designers, and her husband Julian is a British set designer,

can enrol in a Junior Tracker Training Programme that teaches

who has worked with the RSC and National Theatre.

them to track, identify creatures and catch fish while parents relax

Their holiday home, painted black on the exterior, showcases

under big African skies, taking in birds, flowers and miles of trees.

the cream of the country’s design – from a lamp by the furniture-

Nearby attractions Jembisa shares the same attractions as Leobo

maker Gregor Jenkin and lampshade by Heath Nash to sculptures,

(see previous entry). In addition, Lapalala Wilderness (lapalala.

paintings and fabrics. It also showcases the world outside. From

com) is set on the Waterberg Reserve, a 400,000-hectare Unesco

every room in the three-storey glass house are spectacular natural

World Biosphere Zone and a prime place to see fast-disappearing

views: the mountains behind, and the long empty beach to the

rhino and sub-Saharan rock art. Black Mamba in Vaalwater is

front. “Having moved here from London,” Trevyn explains, “what

worth stopping at to buy local crafts.

we wanted was a sense of space and to see big skies.”

Cost Jembisa (jembisa.com) costs from £1,668 per night, for up to eight, inclusive of food, wine and most activities.

With five children, they also needed space: the house is divided into three floors, and extends into a cool courtyard garden to the rear, and an infinity pool and deck to the front. All around are

FOR THE HIP PA RTY

The Cove

windows and doors that open fully to create large inside-outside spaces. As well as two suites with sea views — one on the top floor, one on the bottom (ideal for two couples who want some

The approach to this ultra-modern sea home is not promising –

privacy), there are four children’s bedrooms that connect to a

through a suburban housing estate on the outskirts of Knysna.

playroom, a roof terrace with a fireplace for cool evenings and

But once the electric garage doors open and the car has rolled

loungers for sunny days, and big formal living and dining spaces.

into this palatial house, another world is revealed in all its

As you’d expect in the home of two creatives, every item is

contemporary glory. The Cove has been built right on the edge

pleasing to the eye, from the Wonki Ware crockery and fine white

of a cliff, in concrete, wood and glass, and through each of the

bedlinen to artworks by the YBA Marc Quinn (who is a friend of

rooms’ double-height reinforced glass walls the views are

the family). While there is direct access from the pool terrace to

stupendous: across the sea and northwards up the coast.

the beach below, this is through a locked gate, which gives peace

The Modernist construction is known locally as the James Bond

of mind to parents of small children.

House for good reason – few other homes have electric gates and

Nearby attractions The quiet local village of Wilderness has a

garages, their own cinema with 4.7ft screen, surround sound and

handful of coffee shops, casual restaurants (Pomodoro has the

flatscreen televisions in every room, a private beach (accessed via

best pizzas on the Garden Route) and a small supermarket. (The

274 steps) and even a glass elevator for those who can’t (or don’t

Black House is aimed at self-caterers.) The ancient tropical forests

fancy) expending energy on the central spiral marble-and-glass

of the area are home to the Woodville Big Tree, an 800-year-old

staircase indoors. It’s not a house for the body-conscious: each of

Outeniqua yellowwood with a 40ft girth. There is a pretty lagoon

the four capacious en-suite bedrooms is walled in glass and the

nearby, which is great for kayaking and bird-watching.

only place to hide is in bed, each of which is enclosed by full-length

Cost The Black House (perfecthideaways.co.za) costs from £976

curtains. But it is decadently spacious, with double-height living

a night, for up to four adults and eight children, with daily cleaner.

areas that would easily host a party of 200 people, programmable mood lighting, wine fridges, floor-to-ceiling glass walls that fold

Aardvark Safaris (01980 849 160; aardvarksafaris.co.uk) offers a

back, a Jacuzzi and a 118ft L-shaped infinity pool. From the

12-day holiday to South Africa from £3,867 per person, inclusive of

poolside, watch whales pass by during the day and waves crash

South African Airways flights, four nights’ full-board at Leobo, four

against the cliffs at night. A staff of two means you don’t have to

nights (house only) at The Black House, and three nights’ b&b at the

lift a finger on the domestic front, other than to cook – although a

Cape Grace Hotel in Cape Town, as well as transfers and internal

chef can be arranged. Knysna is 10 minutes’ drive away, with good

flights. Prices are based on eight adults travelling together.

ultratravel 79

SCALING NEW hEights

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only one place where in the morning you can ski in fresh powder, in the afternoon fish for cod, and in the evening sail to a cosy wooden cabin where a hammam and gourmet meal await. Pippa Middleton salutes Norwayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sunnmore region

80 ultratravel

wide world Views across Hjorundfjorden, often voted one of the most beautiful places to go skiing

ultratravel 81

Imagine more time to see and less time at sea

Santorini, Greece

Find your perfect ocean journey with Viking Cruises Viking Homelands

Empires of the Mediterranean

Into the Midnight Sun

From Stockholm to Bergen, explore Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Estonia, Poland, Germany, and Denmark on an unforgettable 15-day journey. Offering breathtaking scenery, glorious cities and tiny harbourside towns, it’s the definitive cruise of Scandinavia and the Baltic.

Roman amphitheatres. Greek temples. Medieval walled cities. Mosaics, frescoes and art through the ages. There is so much more to the Mediterranean than meets the eye. From Venice to Istanbul, uncover the great empires on this remarkable 10-day journey through time.

Explore Norway and the Scottish isles on an incredible 15-day journey into the midnight sun.

Rugged and wild fjords. Spectacular scenery.

The rush of tumbling waterfalls. The quiet of the Arctic Circle. For today’s traveller, the great adventure lies north.

Romantic Mediterranean

Nordic Explorer

Mediterranean Odyssey

This memorable 8-day cruise from Barcelona to Rome treats you to the perfect blend of classic Mediterranean cities, stunning landscapes, charming towns and lesser known gems.

Feast on picturesque scenery and all the art, history and culture you could wish for.

No two days are the same on this remarkable 15-day voyage. From the breathtaking beauty of Norway’s fjords to the beating heart of Barcelona, explore the best of both exciting worlds. Visit France, Spain and Portugal and enjoy an extraordinary medley of cultures.

Historic monuments and cosmopolitan cities.

Ancient empires and treasured towns. On this wonderful 13-day journey, sail from Barcelona to Venice and explore Toulon, Monte Carlo, Rome, Napes, Corfu, Dubrovnik and Split. All from your stunning new Viking ship.

Call Viking now on 020 8780 7983 or visit www.vikingoceancruises.co.uk Travel safe, you are fully protected

T

Day One

he mad bustle of Gatwick, with its shopping malls, restaurants and crowds, felt a million miles away as we stood waiting for our luggage and ski gear to appear on the single carousel at Alesund airport. This small provincial airport, just two and a half hours from London, is the gateway to the stunning Sunnmore Alps, and Alesund itself, a beautiful Western Norwegian sea port between the Hjorund and Geiranger fjords and the mountains.

Many of the 45,000 people who live here have Viking roots, and Norse cultural traditions are still strong. What makes the town even more distinctive is the abundance of art nouveau architecture. One winter’s night in 1904, a fire ravaged Alesund, leaving more than 10,000 people homeless. It was rebuilt in a style unlike that of anywhere else in the region.

Our first night was spent in a former packing house for the busy klipfish trade, now transformed into the chic boutique Hotel Brosundet, made up of 47 modern, minimalist rooms. A highlight was dinner at Maki, the hotel’s restaurant, cooked by chef Ole Johnny Hjelmeseth, who explained that he prefers to keep his fish on ice for a few days to deepen the flavour. We feasted upon fresh crayfish that melted in the mouth, served with mussels, crab and crispy potato skins, followed by krea, a local dish of meaty cod on a bed of creamy mashed potato, with ox and truffle jus, celeriac and caramelised onions.

The freezing temperatures in this region, Hjelmeseth told us, provide added intensity for the taste buds. “Fish, for instance, grow more slowly, so develop a better flavour,” he said. “And if you try Norwegian berries, you’ll really notice the difference.”

Soon after, I was tucked up in bed in our wooden-beamed bedroom, listening to the howling wind and dreaming of pristine fjords, unfurled sails and perfect fall lines.

Day Two Nothing beats a Scandi breakfast: a healthy mixture of rollmop herrings, delicious smoked salmon, rye bread, cucumber with eggs, and a fresh coffee (the Norwegians, I’m told, are among the biggest coffee drinkers on earth). Through the arched windows of the restaurant, we could see our boat, the MS Granny II, docking alongside the hotel’s jetty.

It was certainly a novel experience to board a boat in ski wear, and carrying skis. Our destination was Hjorundfjorden, renowned for its lovely hotels, and often voted one of the most beautiful places to ski in the world. The salty air, bitter winds and waves crashing on deck made for a bracing introduction to the day, but the sun on the snow-capped

mountains that rise 5,000ft from the shore more than made up for it. After a couple of hours sailing in waters that our captain told us were as deep as 2,000ft in places, we reached Saebo, a sheltered marina and location of the Sagafjord Hotel. It was the dream Norwegian mountain ski lodge. The wooden walls built from logs and weatherboarding are, in parts, 200 years old and topped with a roof covered in grass. The remote location ensured a peaceful atmosphere that no Alpine resort I can think of could ever hope to acquire.

After a warming lunch of roasted cauliflower soup at the hotel, it was time to head out with our guide Oscar. This area is renowned for ski touring, particularly on such peaks as Slogen, Randers Topp, Kolastinden and Skarasalen, which are snow-covered from November until May. Visibility was poor and the wind was tearing through the valley but off we headed, trekking deep into the landscape laden with skis, skins and rucksacks. When the snow became deeper underfoot, we skinned up and soon, with Oscar leading the way, got into a good rhythm as we climbed onwards and upwards, with

It was a dream Norwegian ski lodge, with log and weatherboard walls, a roof covered in grass, and a remote, peaceful location true north From top: MS Granny II, on which Pippa sailed; salmon at Maki restaurant; ski touring; the grass-roofed Sagafjord Hotel in Saebo; the picturesque sea port of Alesund

not another person in sight, and the only sound that of skis on the soft snow. Just before the summit, we stopped, de-skinned, and began our long and thrilling descent on a steep slope through fine white fluffy powder, zig-zagging through trees, hopping in and out of the dips and hillocks, and eventually reaching the pass at the bottom.

Back on board the Granny, our lungs full of fresh air, our bodies buzzing with adrenalin and our cheeks burning from the icy wind, we wolfed down sandwiches — wrapped the Norwegian way in parchment paper — then a local chocolate called Kvikk Lunsj (or “quick lunch”, which is, apparently, what every serious Norwegian skier packs for a day) and a slug of Aquavit, a spirit traditionally drunk after fatty meals.

Replenished, we headed out into the cold again, this time to try our hand at cod fishing.

There’s a specific method to this, we were taught: having let the lure sink to the bottom, you have to reel in, every now and then jerking the line to try and hook the fish.

My mouth watered at the thought of freshly caught cod but we had no luck. No matter. Supper was tasty local venison back at the Sagafjord Hotel, followed by whisky nightcaps with our new friends on the boat moored next door. I couldn’t have slept better. ultratravel 83

Can I get travel insurance with my pre-existing * medical conditions?

Sure You Can! 12 months’ European Comprehensive cover from

£39.99

**

• Up to £10m medical emergency & repatriation

• Up to £5,000 cancellation cover • All pre-existing medical conditions considered

• Easy medical screening • 17 days winter sports cover included*** • UK Contact Centre open 7 days a week!

Celebrating 10 years and over a million customers insured

Call us FREE 7 days a week

0800 652 1329 staysure.co.uk

*Terms and Conditions apply. **Price is correct at time of print, based on one person aged 18– 65 travelling in Europe on a Comprehensive policy, excluding medical conditions. ***Winter sports cover up to 17 days in 1 trip up to age 70.

Prices vary according to medical condition cover and individual needs. Staysure.co.uk Limited is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Registration No. 436804.

HAvARd MYklEbuST; 4cORnERS; FREdRik ScHEnHOlM; viSiTnORWAY.cOM

Day Three Next on the itinerary was another Norwegian winter experience: a snow spa.

Having waved goodbye to Granny, we hit the road and took several car ferries before arriving at the famous Geiranger Fjord, a Unesco World Heritage Site, and the Hotel Union. In summer months, this area is a haven for hikers, but in winter it is quiet and restful. With its spectacular views, the hotel’s spa was a great place to relax after an energetic morning of ski touring. As well having as a sauna, after which I was given ice to rub on to my body to cool down, I had my first ever hammam, which involved lots of bubbles, scrubbing and buckets of water thrown over me, leaving my skin feeling soft and squeaky-clean.

Our whistlestop tour continued as we moved on to the Juvet Landscape Hotel, set in a forest wilderness by the River Valdolla and another destination beloved of ski-tourers. The main hotel building is a former cowshed set on the river bank, built from birch, aspen and pine, and designed to complement the beauty and tranquillity of the surroundings. There are just nine rooms, each a wooden hut on stilts, with a designer wooden interior that is dimly lit, and wide glass walls. Knut, the owner of the hotel, urged us not to use electric lights, but to let our eyes adjust to the natural light and to enjoy simply sitting there, taking in the views and appreciating nature fully. He was right; surrounded by the forest, with wintery light seeping through the trees, this was a wonderful place to wind down.

Dinner, cooked by Knut, was served on a large communal table in the cowshed, creating a wonderfully convivial atmosphere. We dined on smoked whale carpaccio (which tastes similar to smoked salmon but looks more like venison carpaccio), followed by a signature rustic Norwegian dish of salted cod in tomato, with hunks of fresh homemade bread to mop up the sauce. We made our way back to our designer pod in the dark, anxious not to ruin our closeness to the natural world by putting on the lights. Luckily our room key had a torch attached…

Day Four Overnight it snowed and we awoke to miles of whiteness, with every branch, leaf and feather blanketed in snow – fortuitous, given that our destination that day was the Stranda Ski Resort in the Sunnmore Alps.

The snow was fluffy, the pistes quiet and virgin powder easy to find. A quick lunch of meats, cheeses and local beer, and then we headed back to Alesund.

I was determined, though, not to leave without another attempt to hook my first cod. Having been introduced to a local fisherman, I was handed a rod and an extra-large fisherman’s onesie and put to work. Ten minutes in, with a bit of linejerking here and there, I had a large flabby cod on my line. It was a heavy job reeling it in, but worth the effort: at the end of the day my fisherman friend had chopped it into fillets for us to enjoy.

Never could I have imagined catching a cod on a skiing trip. But then, here in Norway winter activities aren’t restricted to those most of us have grown up with.

There are few places where, in four days, you can experience sailing, ski touring and skiing, and even squeeze in some spa time — with incredible views and surroundings

PICTURE WINDOW Above: One of nine wood-and-glass suites in the Juvet Landscape Hotel, set amid thick forests (above left); Pippa, below, finally lands a cod – with a little professional help

a given. The fjords and Sunnmore Alps are breathtaking in winter, but I was told, over and over, “Come back in summer”, when a different beauty takes hold. A popular hike is up Slogen mountain, which William Cecil Slingsby, the renowned English climber, said was one of the “proudest” in Europe. “Nowhere else,” he said, “will you see views like this.” But no words will do Slogen justice. It is a place to which, if you love the outdoors, you’ve simply got to go.

Fjord Cruise Adventures (fjordcruise adventures.com) offers ski touring in the Sunnmore Alps in March and April, with accommodation on board the Gassten wooden ship, transport, meals and a ski guide from £260 per person per day.

Norwegian (norwegian.com) flies directly from London Gatwick to Alesund from £44.90 one way. Further information: visitnorway.com, fjordnorway.com, and visitalesund-geiranger.com.

WHERE TO STAY Hotel Brosundet Alesund

Sagafjord Hotel Saebo

This quirky 47-room hotel is right on the harbour, and designed by Snohetta, the architects known for the 9/11 Memorial Museum’s Pavilion in New York. Warm, homely brick walls and wooden floors complement modern Norwegian chairs and tables crafted from recycled dockside timber. The cook once worked on a trawler, hence his knowledge of the region’s finest fish, and the best way to prepare it. The bar offers a large selection of local Norwegian beers (0047 7011 4500; brosundet.no; doubles from £118).

There are spectacular views of the fjords from this simple, wooden, cabin-style hotel, which has 34 rooms refurbished by its new owners. It’s a great place for lunch before an afternoon’s skiing (0047 7004 0260; sagafjordhotel.no; doubles from £143).

The Juvet Landscape Hotel Alstad This architectural gem is designed to accentuate the magnificent landscapes and forests that surround it. Rooms are set in angular wood-and-

glass cabins that are raised on stilts, and furnished sparsely – the interiors are minimalist but cosy. Good homely food is cooked by the owner and served communally (0047 9503 2010; juvet.com; doubles from £123).

Hotel Union Geiranger Come to this large hotel for the spectacular spa featuring a hydrawalk, sauna, hammam, outdoor and indoor pools, and a children’s play area. With soaring mountains around it, and views of waterfalls and the Geiranger Fjord, it’s a place that feels healing even before you’ve had

one of its first-rate treatments (0047 7026 8300; hotelunion.no; doubles from £180, half-board).

Storfjord Skodje This is Norway’s perfect boutique-hotel hideaway.

Made with traditional lafting techniques, it has a roof covered in grass and is set on a wooded hillside with beautiful views over to Storfjord. Inside it is filled with antiques. Delicious homecooked Norwegian specialities are served in a romantic candlelit log room with a real fire (0047 7027 4922; storfjordhotel.com; doubles from £169).

ultratravel 85

intelligence

g IndIan Inks The sumptuous Rajmahal Palace, above, is the former home of the Maharaja of Jaipur.

Now a boutique hotel, its interiors left, are a celebration of vivid Rajasthani colours

A little plAce i know Rajmahal Palace jaipur

There aren’t many hotels in the world in which the Queen, Jackie

The prettiest, such as the baby-blue Mountbatten, have private

Onassis, Lord Mountbatten and generations of Indian royalty have slept.

living spaces overlooking the gardens, high-tech music and television

But the Rajmahal Palace, the oldest in Jaipur, was once the private home

systems, and white-marble bathrooms stocked with products in crystal

of the Maharajah, and it was there, after a tour of his principality, that

decanters, cotton wool and tissues in elegant stone jars, and a hairdryer

presidents and queens would rest, with a view of peacocks parading

and torch in leather pouches.

in the seven acres of Persian-inspired gardens, horse-drawn carriages

But then, management of the hotel is in the hands of Suján, the

sweeping through the imperial gates, and fountains gurgling amid beds

boutique organisation owned by Jaisal and Anjali Singh, so nothing is too

of white roses.

much trouble. Meals, which can be taken in-suite, range from fruit

Almost three centuries after it was built, the palace has been given an

platters at breakfast and salads at lunch to rich Indian feasts at night,

extensive make-over by Princess Diya Kumari, the Maharaja’s daughter,

served by staff who are polished from the tops of their turbans to the

and Adil Ahmad, the Indian designer who created the successful

royal insignias on their brass buttons. And almost any trip can be

interiors firm Good Earth. Together, they have created an Indian

arranged: excursions by horse-drawn carriage, visits to private palaces

boutique hotel unlike any other. It’s not just the design that’s bold, but

and, of course, shopping trips to more exclusive artisans’ workshops.

the colours. Inside the double-storey art deco building the decor is as

To complement the outdoor swimming pool, a spa suite opens this

vivid as the saris that adorn the women beyond its rose-coloured walls:

month offering Ayurvedic treatments. There are also two shops in which

Kit Kemp meets Technicolor Raj. Walls have been decorated with

to buy local treasures: a Palace Collection boutique, selling items

46 different styles of hand-blocked paper, some featuring polo horses,

created by Ahmad, from wallpaper to glasswear, and Kashmir Loom,

others the royal insignia. Chairs have been upholstered in lurid pinks and

makers of fine embroidered cashmere shawls.

edited by Lisa GrainGer

original art-deco furniture and a rich, clashing colour scheme

Suján Rajmahal Palace, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India (0091 11 4617 2700;

(an acquired taste). In every room chandeliers illuminate woven carpets

sujanluxury.com) costs from £170 a night. Greaves India (020 7487 9111;

and 10ft-high paintings of exotic birds and maharajahs.

greavesindia.co.uk) offers a week’s tour to India from £2,085 per person,

Thankfully, many of the 14 suites have been decorated in softer, powdery hues that are cooling and calming in the dry desert heat.

including four nights at Suján Rajmahal Palace and three nights in Delhi, flights with British Airways, transfers, guides and sightseeing.

ultratravel 87

CHRIS CALDICOTT

shocking midnight blues. The Maharajah’s and Maharani’s Suites have

intelligence

TRAV E L BY N UM B E RS

 HIGH-STREET HAUTE

5 million

Drop in visitors to Egypt in 2013, compared with 2010

1.5 million

Price in dollars of a handmade surfboard sold last year in New Zealand

12

Number of time zones in France, from mainland Europe to its Polynesian and Caribbean islands

a lot of bottle Beatriz Machado in The Yeatman cellars

2 to 3 million

Hours it will take to build Triple Deuce, the biggest superyacht in the world

M ASTERCLASS P ORT EX PERT ? years to several decades for tawny

slightly chilled at about 10c, and white

The Yeatman Hotel in Porto, Portugal,

ports, to get the amber colour and rich

port well chilled. Each needs to be

and has an MSc in viticulture from the

mellow flavours; and between four to

served in a good-sized glass, so

University of California. She oversees a

six years for the plum and raspberry-

drinkers can enjoy the aromas.

20,000-bottle cellar, regarded as one of

scented late-bottled vintage.

Is it good with food?

the best collections of local wine and

What’s the difference between

It’s great with strong cheeses or

port in the country. Here, she offers

white and red port?

desserts such as apple crumble.

insights into a drink often associated

the grapes they’re made from: white

Which makers are best known?

with winter, but which, she says, is

port from white grapes and red port

taylor’s Port, croft Port and Fonseca

“dreamy in summer, with ice and a slice”.

from red. Most dry white ports came

Guimaraens – all owned by the

What is port?

about during the Spanish civil War,

company I work for. other well-known

Fortified wine from the douro region

when sherry was hard to come by.

brands include ramos Pinto, Niepoort,

of northern Portugal, which takes its

I love white port and tonic, with ice, a

Graham’s, dow’s and Warre’s.

name from the city of Porto. It is made

slice of orange and a sprig of mint.

If I were to come to Porto, which

Does port only come from Portugal?

cellars should I visit?

yes. While similar fortified red wines

Just across the street from the

are produced elsewhere, real port’s

yeatman, taylor’s Port, which was

character is derived from around 30

founded in 1692, offers tours of cellars

grape varieties that thrive only in the

holding thousands of barrels. then

climate, soil and terrain of the

walk to the riverside, where ramos

mountainous douro Valley.

Pinto has an excellent tour and a small

at what temperature should port

museum, and finish at Graham’s lodge

once fortified, port remains

be served?

which offers tastings and lovely views.

in oak barrels: two years

It depends on the style of the port:

The Yeatman Hotel, Porto (0351 22 013

for vintage port; seven

full-bodied and fruity at 17c, tawny

3100; the-yeatman-hotel.com)

by adding grape spirit, or brandy, to the wine before it has finished fermenting, which stops the fermentation early and maintains much of the natural sweetness of the grape.

How do you get different styles?

TRAV E L A PP

Parkopedia

Artur MAchAdo; AlAMy

Beatriz Machado is wine director of

this clear, easy-to-use tool takes the stress out of driving in a foreign country by displaying a map of a city’s parking spaces. Parkopedia claims to have mapped 35 million spaces in 50 countries; each map shows available parking spaces, as well as the cost per hour, times in which they are available, and in some places, photographs of the street to make spots easier to find.

Some private spaces can even be booked online in advance.

S OUVENiR S EARCh

For safari clothing, Caroline Hickman is the go-to girl. Not only is she a Notting Hill-based costume designer who knows what stylish people want to wear, but she also lives part of the year at Jack’s Camp in the Makgadikgadi Pans in Botswana, so she understands the practicalities of desert living. Her fashion line consists of safari basics – jackets with big pockets, linen shirts and dresses (left), slimline trousers, snake-proof boots (right), and wide-brimmed hats – with a few fripperies thrown in for romantic nights under stars (hickmanandbousfield.com).

88 ultratravel

Love Travel, Love Luxury...

Love Trailfinders

Indulge in a little luxury with Best of New Zealand Fly Drive Holiday

TRAILFINDERS

Why Trailfnders?

•

Firsthand advice from our extensively travelled consultants

•

Access to exclusive ofers only available to Trailfnders clients

•

No credit card charges unlike most other travel companies

•

Complete peace of mind with unrivalled fnancial protection

• •

26 travel centres across the UK Trusted for more than 44 years

and Air New Zealand

Unique, Boutique & Luxury Fly Drive Holiday

17 nights from £2,499

10 nights from £3,799

18 nights from £4,799

Drive through the arresting scenery of both the North & South Islands.

Explore the lesser known gems not reached by larger groups.

Discover New Zealand’s fnest lodges and hotels, set in magnifcent, scenic locations.

Cosmopolitan Auckland

• Geysers & Maori culture • Cook Strait crossing • Franz Josef • Queenstown

Valley walk at Mount Cook • Queenstown • Milford Sound cruise & scenic fight • Franz Josef • Punakaiki

Bay of Islands • Hawke’s Bay • Stunning Kapiti Coast • Marlborough Sounds • Kaikoura • Arthurs Pass

Air New Zealand fights, car hire, 17 nights hotel & a whale watching cruise.

Air New Zealand fights, transfers, tour leader & sightseeing, 10 nights hotel, breakfast, 1 lunch & 1 dinner.

Air New Zealand fights, car hire, 18 nights hotel, breakfast & some dinners, wine tasting & sightseeing.

Air New Zealand Premium Economy Upgrade

Rob Suisted

Takahe Small Group Touring Holiday

Fly via LA to experience Premium Economy Spaceseat™ Air New Zealand’s Premium Economy Spaceseat™* ofers unparalleled personal space. A revolutionary fxed shell design means that no one can recline into your space leaving you to enjoy an uninterrupted seat pitch of up to 42”. A cabin more premium than economy; benefts include Premium check-in, increased baggage allowance and premium food served onboard.

Upgrade your New Zealand holiday to Premium Economy Spaceseat™ from £286#.

Prices are per person based on twin share & subject to availability. Valid for selected Apr & May departures. *Available on the 777-300 service from Heathrow to Auckland via Los Angeles only. #Upgrade price based on Los Angeles to Auckland sector only.

TAILORMADE TRAVEL WORLDWIDE 020 7408 9020

020 7408 9030 trailfnders.com/nz

FIRST & BUSINESS CLASS TRAVEL

In Sri Lanka I slept under a net, pretending I was Ingrid Bergman. I spend my life pretending I’m in other people’s films

T

he award-winning actress, whose latest film The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel is released in America this month, took her first foreign trip at the

age of 22 which seems, she says, “unusually late now, but wasn’t then”. In the past 40 years, she has traversed the globe, acting for stage and film on productions ranging from Shakespeare to The Darling Buds of May, and Doctor Who to Bridget Jones’s Diary. She makes her debut this month as a novelist with Not Quite Nice (Bloomsbury), a drama about expatriates on the French Riviera, where she has a home.

How many holidays do you take a year?

As an actor, you can’t fix a holiday. The minute you do, something comes up and you have to drop it. Now, when I can, I make myself go away.

The most exotic trips you’ve been on?

Almost all my major trips have been working adventures, rather than holidays: to Australia with Glenda Jackson for Hedda Gabler, to India to play in The Merchant of Venice on a British Council 20th Century Fox

tour, to Slovakia with Keira Knightley to film Dr Zhivago, and to the Czech Republic for Titanic.

Parts of the world you love?

Nice, where I have an apartment and spend as much time as I can. It’s heaven. I look out on to

Travelling life Celia Imrie

The British actress on her affection for the dog-loving French, eating curry for breakfast in India, and swimming in a moat the sea, which is exquisite. The colours and

Palace (rajpalace.com) in Jaipur, where I saw

taking everything. The person who invented the

The most romantic hotel you’ve ever visited?

mood change all the time: one minute the waves

people playing elephant polo on the lawns.

suitcase with four wheels should be knighted.

The Mount Lavinia Hotel (mountlaviniahotel.

can rise up and the next it’s completely calm.

Did you travel elsewhere in India?

Your favourite city for a weekend away?

com) in Sri Lanka, when I was on tour with

What’s special about the city?

Yes; my son Angus and I took the train from

I love the buzz of New York; it is like stepping on

The Merchant of Venice. I slept under a net

Because it’s a working city, it’s bustling with real

Jaipur to Udaipur together. My lasting

to an electric carpet. I usually go to John’s

pretending I was Ingrid Bergman. I spend my life

people getting on with their lives. The bars are

impressions were of the million pink saris of the

Pizzeria in Bleeker Street. There is always

pretending I am in other people’s films.

full of local people. There are markets and normal

young girls working in the fields. Although their

a queue, which shows how good it is.

And the most glamorous room?

shops. And I adore travelling there from Paris by

work was extremely hard, they looked glorious.

What about hotels?

The one in Udaivilas, which had a terrace, a bed

train. The last hour from Marseilles is spectacular.

Do you enjoy Indian food?

In Paris, the Terrass Hotel (terrass-hotel.com) in

covered with more than a dozen embroidered

Other little things that you love about France?

I am mad about it, and even used to have the

Montmartre, which has rooms with lovely striped

cushions, and a moat in which to swim. It had a

The French love dogs. There was a marvellous

curry menu for breakfast, much to the other

wallpaper from which you can see the Eiffel

ceiling fan, too, which I think is terribly romantic.

moment recently at Le Chantecler restaurant at

actors’ amusement. I particularly love masala

Tower. In New York my favourite is The Marlton

Hotels you’d recommend in the UK?

the Negresco (hotel-negresco-nice.com).

dosas with sambal.

(marltonhotel.com) in Greenwich Village, which

I stayed in One Devonshire Gardens (hotelduvin.

Between two gentlemen (who were wearing

What’s your idea of a perfect holiday?

has armchairs by a fire where you can relax, and

com) in Glasgow – a city I love – when we filmed

quite a lot of jewellery) there was a smaller seat,

A trip that involves a boat and a train. I don’t like

a greenhouse for breakfast.

What We Did On Our Holiday last August, which

which I presumed was for a godson or nephew.

aeroplanes. But I love water and am never

Favourite shopping spots?

laid on a fabulous breakfast.

But when I looked again I realised it was for their

happier than on a boat, whether big – ideally the

I loathe shopping, although I bought lots of

Do you like adventure holidays?

dog, who was sitting at the table with them.

Queen Mary 2 — or little. Also, I have to go to a

shoes in the sale at Macy’s (macys.com) last

No. Although I camped out by a river once, near

If you get time off on set, what do you do?

place to which I’ve never been. I like to keep on

time I was in New York.

Aberdeen. It was fabulous. I like to try everything.

It depends on the film. When filming The Second

the move. My idea of hell is a beach and a book.

If you could have a meal anywhere in the

The best airline in the world?

Best Exotic Marigold Hotel in Udaipur and Jaipur,

Where would you like to go?

world where would it be?

Jet Airways (jetairways.com), which is how I got

I went to see some Hindu temples, which I loved.

To Egypt, although not now. And being ballet

Alain Ducasse’s Louis XV restaurant

to India. I flew first class and it was total luxury.

Where did you stay?

mad, Russia, although there is trouble there, too.

(alainducasse.com) in Monte Carlo, which is

You get a little room, and curry morning, noon

The Oberoi Udaivilas (oberoihotels.com) in

Do you travel light or heavy?

beyond beyond. It is the one place that sounds

and night, which I love – the hotter the better.

Udaipur, which is beyond luxury, and The Raj

I leave packing till the last moment and end up

as glamorous as it is.

Interview by Lisa Grainger

90 ultratravel

ACCESS ALL AREAS For more information or to book, please call Silversea on 0844 251 0841, visit silversea.com or contact your travel agent.

Hilton Head Island

Sot Caroina

Southern charm and so much more.

SouthCarolinaUSA.co.uk