Ultratravel Spring 2014

Page 1

The Daily Telegraph

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CONTENTS

Hotel California The pool at Auberge du Soleil in the Napa Valley (page 28)

Features

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28 Liquid sunshine In California, Sasha Abramsky tours the vineyards of Napa and Sonoma and watches the Silicon Valley set at play; plus, Piers Morgan and Celia Walden drink in the pleasures of Santa Barbara 38 It’s all mine Owning a private island is the ultimate aspiration. Lisa Grainger gets a taste for the billionaire lifestyle on Laucana and Necker 54 Fresh India Ultratravel writers stay at new properties offering novel

62

experiences, from a leopard safari in Rajasthan to glamping in Ladakh 62 Golf special Why do South Koreans dominate the women’s game? Michelle Jana Chan goes there to ďŹ nd out; plus, 10 of the best holidays combining golf with other interests, from spa treatments to ďŹ ne wine 70 The other Tuscany Lee Marshall heads for the coast, where a new marina development has added to the allure for the international jet set 75 Win a trip to New York Name your travel favourites, from hotels to cruise lines, for the chance to win a four-night luxury break in Manhattan

Regulars 13 Editor’s letter Charles Starmer-Smith on the value of private memories 15 The next big thing Mega-museums, from London to Abu Dhabi; smart tree houses; superyacht hotels; and how to obtain the ultimate luxury – time 19 Ultra experts Fashion advice for the urban adventurer; the desert island

REUTERS

beauty kit; jewellery inspired by wildlife; and lightweight gear and gadgets

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27 AďŹ cionado What makes horologist Jack Heuer tick? 79 Intelligence Fogo Island, Newfoundland; how to get the most from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice; and the best ďŹ rst-class amenity kits

*

82 Travelling life Anecdotes and travel tips from photographer David Bailey

Š Telegraph Media Group Limited 2014. Published by TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, and printed by Polestar UK Limited. Colour reproduction by groupfmg.com. Not to be sold separately from The Daily Telegraph. Ultratravel is a registered trademark licensed to The Daily Telegraph by PGP Media Limited

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EDITOR’S LETTER

PRIVATE PIECES OF PARADISE

O

h my god, oh my god, oh my god!â€? they shrieked in unison. “Charlie works in travel... your honeymoon is going to be amazing.â€? A gaggle of my ďŹ ancĂŠe’s friends had gathered round her. The conversation

had moved on at warp speed from the engagement ring (not too much to

talk about there) to the wedding date (August, apparently) to the honeymoon.

The trip of a lifetime. The holiday to eclipse all holidays. My mother-in-law-to-be

nodded in agreement. I attempted a conďŹ dent smile and gulped. No pressure then. Seven years have passed but I still remember the difďŹ culties of ďŹ nding somewhere genuinely

special. There were all manner of well-worn formulae for achieving post-wedding bliss. Caribbean sojourns. Indian Ocean retreats. African safari-and-beach combinations. Greek Island villas. One recurring feature in our research was the honeymoon “specialâ€? that amounts to little more than a few rose petals in the bath and a bottle of cava, but nevertheless adds another zero to the bill. Palm-fringed paradises and personal service appealed, of course, but what I was really after was a particular kind of privacy – privacy of memory, to coin a phrase. I didn’t want the same experience as countless friends, family members and colleagues. Predictably, I wanted an experience to cherish and one that felt like our own. Finally, I plumped for French Polynesia. The journey started inauspiciously: the long LA to Tahiti/Bora Bora ight was packed with improbably loud American honeymoon couples, the women with large rocks on their ďŹ ngers. En route to the island of Moorea, they were replaced (thankfully) by large Polynesians who squeezed into the tiny seats beside us (no wonder Samoa Air was ďŹ rst to charge passengers by the kilo). But it all changed when we boarded our own launch to the private island of Le Taha’a. Thatched huts lined the shore, vanilla plantations dotted the interior of the palm-fringed islet. As we gingerly manoeuvred across the reef, manta rays swooped in the depths below and my wife smiled. Three ights. Two days. One boat. But somewhere extraordinary. Escape. Exhale. That is what this spring issue of Ultratravel is all about: the privacy of memory. Cherish it.

New offerings A devotee offers owers by the Ganges, an hour’s drive from Vana spa (page 58)

Editor

CONTRIBUTORS

Photographer Jenny Zarins A glass-ended lap pool on the private Fijian island of Laucala

FOR THE LATEST IN LUXURY TRAVEL telegraph.co.uk/ luxury travel

Sasha Abramsky The California-based Briton, best known for books on the American underclass, found his food-and-wine road trip through Napa and Sonoma invigorating. “It certainly got me out of the depressive zone that writing about poverty can put me in!�

Celia Walden As a Telegraph columnist she has covered everything from toy boys, taxi drivers and David Beckham’s briefs to life in LA, but being scrubbed with grape elixir for Ultratravel was a ďŹ rst. “Every pore exuded a rich cabernet scent,â€? she says

Jenny Zarins When not on fashion shoots, the Swedish photographer is in far-ung places, charming the locals (including lemurs in Madagascar) with her easy manner. In this issue, she photographs two islands owned by billionaires, in Fiji and the Caribbean

David Bailey The British photographer has captured on ďŹ lm war (Afghanistan), famine (Sudan), the bush (Out of Africa) and models – two of whom he married. “It’s humans I am interested in, not places,â€? he says, despite being enviably well-travelled

Michelle Jana Chan The intrepid explorer has ďŹ lmed tigers, climbed Mont Blanc and Kilimanjaro, been pummelled by spa therapists in Russia, and last year drove from Paris to Peking. In her spare time she plays golf – for this issue, in South Korea, where “there are no queues, great service, incredible technology and lots of female golfers: a rare thingâ€?

ultratravel

Editor Charles Starmer-Smith Creative director Johnny Morris Managing editor Andrew Purvis Deputy editor Lisa Grainger Sub-editor Kate Quill Photography editor Joe Plimmer Contributing editor John O’Ceallaigh Executive publisher for Ultratravel Limited Nick Perry Publisher Toby Moore Advertising inquiries 07768 106322 (Nick Perry) 020 7931 3239 (Andrew Wiltshire) Ultratravel, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT Twitter @TeleLuxTravel Email ultratravel@telegraph.co.uk

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SLEEP.

OUR MOST POPULAR DESTINATION. Do not disturb. Stretched out on a fully-flat bed. The sumptuous soft mattress and bedtime drink beginning to take effect. About to touch down on a cotton-wool cloud. From gentle ambient cabin lighting, to soothing pillow mist aromas, see how far we’re going to bring you some well-deserved sleep at etihad.com/comfortzone Welcome to a more comfortable world.

HAYES DAVIDSON AND HERZOG & DE MEURON; JONATHAN ROOT/EYEVINE; FOSTER + PARTNERS; ABU DHABI TOURSIM & CULTURE AUTHORITY

What’s coming up in luxury travel, from superyacht hotels and smart tree houses to ‘sunbed supervisors’ who stop you burning

the NEXT BIG THING COMPILED BY JOHN O’CEALLAIGH

Space programme Clockwise from top left: the Tate Modern extension; Amanda Levete; Zayed National Museum, Abu Dhabi; Jean Nouvel and Sheikh Sultan Bin Tahnoon al-Nahyan with the Louvre Abu Dhabi design

z THE RISE OF THE MEGA-MUSEUM

T

hanks to overwhelming consumer demand, Europe’s

attracted five million, is to open an extension in 2016,

in the French city of Lens in 2012. More controversially,

pre-eminent cultural attractions are about to get

designed by Herzog & de Meuron. A dramatic, swerving brick

Louvre Abu Dhabi is set to open in 2015. Designed by

bigger, unrestrained by small, outmoded buildings –

tower, it will reach the same height as the former power

Jean Nouvel and developed with guidance from Agence

station’s chimney.

France-MusĂŠums, the vast building will be a focal point for

or even international borders. The British Museum in London, which opened in 1759

Meanwhile, in South Kensington, the Victoria &Albert

the cultural district being developed on Saadiyat Island. It

in Montagu House, a 17th-century mansion on the site of

Museum is developing several new spaces. The most

will display a collection “enriched by loans� not only from

the current museum, welcomed 5,000 visitors in its first

notable addition, designed by Amanda Levete Architects, is

the Louvre, but also from the MusÊe d’Orsay and Centre

year. In 2013, it received 6.5 million people. To accommodate

the Exhibition Road Building Project, an underground gallery

Pompidou in Paris. Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, designed

these growing crowds, the adjoining World Conservation

with a courtyard. It will have its own entrance on Exhibition

by Frank Gehry, will open in 2017.

and Exhibitions Centre opens this month. The ÂŁ135 million

Road, and opens in 2017.

extension, designed by Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners, will

Housed in a converted banana warehouse, the Design

Whether fans of French art will forgo Paris for museums on the Persian Gulf remains to be seen, but Saadiyat Island

provide nine floors of office and exhibition space and should

Museum in Shad Thames, near Tower Bridge, lacks the

will be a significant destination when works are completed

ensure a comfortable visitor experience for decades, if not

space to expand, so it is taking more drastic measures. Later

in 2020. The development will include the striking Zayed

centuries, to come.

this year it will relocate to the former Commonwealth

National Museum, designed by Norman Foster, and

Institute on Kensington High Street; John Pawson is

a sinuous performing arts centre conceived by Zaha Hadid.

remodelling the building’s interiors.

In this age of big-budget, big-brand cultural centres, a new

But the British Museum isn’t the only London attraction expanding to accommodate the capital’s voracious consumers of culture. Tate Modern, which was expected to receive 2.5 million visitors in its first year but actually

Other cultural institutions have been more ambitious in their expansion plans. The Louvre in Paris opened a branch

generation of attractions is about to push the boundaries

FOR THE LATEST IN LUXURY TRAVEL telegraph.co.uk/ luxurytravel

even further.

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the NEXT BIG THING

ONtrend:

TIME MANAGEMENT

A

t the International Luxury Travel Market, held last December in Cannes, travel

industry insiders were asked what they

Star quality A model by the pool of the Beverly Hills Hotel, where a new suite is inspired by Marilyn Monroe

considered to be the ultimate luxury. Their answer was surprisingly simple: time. So what are they doing to make sure their customers’ holiday is free from stress and obligation, maximising that precious commodity? One way of saving time at hotels is to avoid

z MOVIE-STAR TREATMENT

the rigmarole of checking in. At several of

The city of Beverly Hills celebrates its centennial this year with the launch of an unusual partnership. As part of the Suite 100 campaign, five of its best hotels — the Beverly Hills Hotel, the Montage Beverly Hills, the Beverly Hilton, L’Ermitage Beverly Hills and the Peninsula Beverly Hills — will each unveil a newly decorated suite reflecting the city’s history. The one at the Beverly Hills Hotel is inspired by Marilyn Monroe and includes artefacts from her estate and a library of her best-known films. The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ suite pays homage to Hollywood award ceremonies; guests can arrange a photo shoot on the hotel’s red carpet.

Starwood’s Aloft properties, guests who download its app can bypass the check-in desk and instead use a code sent to their phone to activate their door-key sensor. Andaz Hotels has already dispensed with the traditional check-in – receptionists with iPads complete the process as they walk with a guest to his or her room. At Conrad Hotels, a concierge app allows people to customise their stay, from informing hotel staff of their arrival time to choosing their pillow type. Elsewhere, initiatives are kept simple and non-digital. The Loews Regency Hotel in New York offers “wrinkle-free travel� by

z AERIAL LIVING

allowing frequent guests to store a case of pressed clothes and other essentials in the

Tree houses are no longer the

hotel between visits, relieving them of the

preserve of children. Following

need to pack each time. Similarly, the Four

the success of the Treehotel in

Seasons Silicon Valley keeps personalised

Sweden, Pedras Salgadas Spa

toiletry bags for regular customers – ideal for

& Nature Park, near Porto, in

those with hand luggage only who cannot

Portugal, has unveiled two arrow-shaped, slate-covered

z SUPERYACHT SUPERPOWERS

tree houses (left) that appear to float above a hillside and

At a recent Superyachts.com event showcasing the biggest yachts in the

are fringed by forest. Adults

world, Peter LĂźrssen, the CEO of the eponymous yacht-building company,

yearning for a return to

predicted that we have “reached the peak� in terms of yacht length.

simpler times will find the

As to what the future holds, the elite in China is not buoying up the

uncluttered interiors pleasing,

industry as expected – the lack of an established seafaring culture

but won’t have to forgo

there is seemingly to blame. Instead, Russia remains a core

modern comforts. Each

market. LĂźrssen says its vision of a wealthy lifestyle

house features a kitchenette, LED TV, air-con and WiFi (pedrassalgadaspark.com).

incorporates “yacht ownership to a far greater degree than in other destinations�

bring such items through airport security. In Thailand, the Akaryn in Koh Samui has employed a “sunbed supervisor� to do the clockwatching for you. He keeps an eye on the sun exposure of guests and tells them when to turn over – meaning they can slumber in the sun without worrying about burning. Despite such innovations, time is still an area where, for the luxury travel industry, there is plenty of room for improvement. Any hotel that can make our time on holiday truly our own can expect ample rewards.

z NEW HOTELS OPENING THIS SPRING ILLUSTRATION BY ROBERT SHADBOLT; FEATURED WATCH FROM UNIFORMWARES.COM

Hotels in London can rarely claim to be

In China, meanwhile, the classically

unique, but Sunborn London is offering

styled St Regis Chengdu opens in May,

something genuinely new and different.

elevating service standards in the city

The 138-room “property�, which opens

with its offer of 24-hour butler service. In

this month, is a 394ft superyacht moored

the same month, Sofitel So Singapore

permanently in Royal Victoria Dock.

will be ready to wow the fashion set. Karl

Also in London, the long-awaited

Lagerfeld, who last year helped to

Shangri-La will welcome guests to

redesign the Hotel MĂŠtropole in Monte-

levels 34 to 52 of the Shard in May.

Carlo, has had a hand in its creation.

A bar and infinity pool on its highest floor are among its stand-out features. New York’s Archer Hotel should

The Epiphany in Palo Alto, California, may not rival the MĂŠtropole for looks, but should surpass it in terms of

provide a similarly invigorating setting

connectivity. Among its amenities are the

when it opens in April; its crowning glory

services of a technology concierge.

is a 22nd-floor rooftop bar with views of

Those hoping to launch their own Silicon

the Chrysler and Empire State Buildings.

Valley start-up can check in this month.

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER @TeleLuxTravel Water world The 138-room Sunborn London hotel, housed on a 394ft superyacht

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S tyle.E levated. The original ‘Grand Hotel’ has been delighting her guests since 1865. She exudes a timeless elegance, blending a sense of the past with the style of today. She is a legendary hostess that captivates your senses with her engaging fnesse that bears the hallmarks of a rich heritage that spans three centuries. She will conjure memories that will be talked of for time to come.

Discover The Langham, London: langhamlondon.com 1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London, W1B 1JA T 44 (0) 20 7965 0191

ULTRA fashion

Noel slim-fit jacket ÂŁ490 and Brady slim-fit trousers ÂŁ240, both in crease-free cotton blend, by Acne at Mr Porter (mrporter.com). Textured white cotton shirt ÂŁ59 by Cos (cosstores. com). Hand-crafted titanium-frame sunglasses ÂŁ800 by Thom Browne at Dover Street Market (020 7518 0680; doverstreetmarket.com). Leather hightop trainers with metal toe-cap, ÂŁ575 by Louis Leeman Paris at Harrods (020 7730 1234; louisleemanparis.com). LC duffle bag in orange camouflageprint nappa leather, â‚Ź2,190 (about ÂŁ1,815) by Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy at Harvey Nichols (020 7235 5000; givenchy. com). Seventeen watch with interchangeable leather straps in different colours, ÂŁ590 by Givenchy at Selfridges (020 7318 2336; givenchy.com). Shot on location at MusĂŠe Jean Cocteau, Menton, France (museecocteaumenton.fr) Styling ARABELLA BOYCE Photography JOE PLIMMER

Urban explorer

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HAIR RACHEL SCALES MODEL JONATHAN, AGENCE PRIVILEGE NICE

“

Spring adventures in a foreign city demand an adventurous look: combine crease-free stretch suiting and streamlined separates with a multi-tasking timepiece and avant-garde eyewear. Pack pieces that are exible, as suitable for cultural excursions by day as they are for parties at night. With a pair of Galactic high-tops, too, you’ll be ready for take-off LCKI8KI8M<C

Getting to the Cayman Islands from the UK is easy. It’s leaving that’s hard. Soft white sand between your toes, aquamarine sea, azure sky and golden sun and perhaps, a delicious Rum Punch – a visit to the Cayman Islands is pure indulgence. Direct BA flights make it easy for you to get to the Cayman Islands, sadly they also provide direct flights home too. caymanislands.co.uk

CAYMAN CONCIERGE

Let us help you plan your visit? For free, impartial advice call our tourist office on 020 7491 7771 (office hours) or email concierge@caymanislands.co.uk

ULTRA beauty 1

Sun, wind and salt water are a lethal combination for hair, drying it to a frazzle, bleaching out highlights and splitting the ends. Ojon Rare Blend Oil contains powerful nourishing oils that restore softness and shine, bringing hair back from the brink.

2

Much as we love it, the sun ages skin prematurely by dehydrating the surface layers and then, deeper down, disrupting the DNA of cells. Dr Hauschka Rose Day Cream is a simple, antioxidant-rich moisturiser that aims to neutralise that chain of events by hydrating and soothing the skin.

3

Bare skin exposed to beating sun and its ultraviolet rays is not only sure to age, but can also be vulnerable to skin cancer. Riemann P20 Once A Day Sun Protection cream, available in a range of SPFs, gives good cover and a single application lasts 10 hours.

4

Sunscreens are essential in the sun, but some people worry that they inhibit our daily uptake of vitamin D, which the body produces by synthesising UV light. BetterYou D Lux 3000 Daily Vitamin D Oral Spray will give castaways a shot of the vital vitamin that keeps their bones strong.

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What ďŹ ve items should you pack for a tropical escape? Kate Shapland, our beauty expert, picks her favourites

Desert island survival kit

“

Heading for a remote destination where retail therapy isn’t an option? Don’t panic. Just be sure to go equipped with a few beauty essentials to protect your skin and hair while they are exposed all day to the elements. The best trips force you to omit things from your spongebag anyway — and it’s liberating to travel light. So forget make-up altogether — you won’t be wearing any. Instead, invest in these ďŹ ve must-pack products that will work overtime to keep you moisturised and hydrated. Sun, sea, wind and salt can try to do their worst – but you won’t even notice

1 Ojon Rare Blend Oil ÂŁ30 (0800 088 4165; ojon.co.uk) 2 Dr Hauschka Rose Day Cream ÂŁ24.95 (0845 643 0119; feelunique.com) 3 Riemann P20 Once A Day Sun Cream ÂŁ13.99 (0845 070 8090; boots.com) 4 BetterYou D Lux 3000 Vitamin D Oral Spray ÂŁ7.15 for three (0114 220 2229; betteryou.uk.com) 5 Legology Air-Lite Daily Lift for Legs ÂŁ60 (020 7384 9600; myshowcase.com)

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CAMERA PRESS; AP/FOTOLIA

Stifling heat can cause limbs to feel tight and puffy. Legology Air-Lite Daily Lift For Legs is a deep drainage emulsion, scented with cooling lemon, which calms any mild swelling and restores energy from the feet up.

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ULTRA jewels The natural world has always inspired jewellers. Caragh McKay picks five pieces that exude animal magnetism

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Star-struck De Grisogono Porto Cervo in Sardinia is where Fawaz Gruosi, the founder of de Grisogono, spends the summer. “I love being near the ocean and its sea animals. Their life, form and colour are the perfect inspiration,� he says. His Sea Star bracelet opens and closes around the wrist like a sea creature. Sea Star bracelet in white and rose gold, with blue sapphires and white diamonds, price on application (020 7499 2225; degrisogono.com).

2

“

Animal attraction

Extraordinary animals are favoured models for the jeweller, evoking the exoticism of foreign countries and inspiring bold but natural designs. Rare stones in dazzling hues help to recreate shimmering eyes, furs and feathers — see how blue and yellow sapphires, orange topaz, garnets and diamonds have been crafted to bring these animals and birds to life

designed their Les Voyages Extraordinaires jewellery collection after being inspired by Jules Verne, the French adventure writer and poet. Maximus elephant clip in white gold, white and grey diamonds, with sapphires and pear-shaped topaz of 48.13 carats, price on application (020 7493 0400; vancleefarpels.com).

“

Elephant man Van Cleef &Arpels CEO Nicolas Bos and his creative team

3

Blue bird Boucheron (below)

The graceful forms of animals and birds have influenced the house of Boucheron since it was created in 1858. The Hera ring was inspired by the Greek goddess Hera, whose sacred animal was the peacock – a symbol of invincibility and immortality. Hera ring by Boucheron, in 18-carat white gold with blue

5

sapphires, ÂŁ16,250 (020 7514 9170; boucheron.com).

Perfect partners Wendy Yue

4

(above) A prolific traveller from a young age, Wendy Yue sketched the wildlife she encountered. Her drawings led to

Cat walk Cartier (right) Last year, for the first time, Cartier sought

inspiration from Africa. The African line of its l’OdyssÊe de Cartier

3

collection features panther motifs, fashioned in rare stones, and designs that reflect the continent. Panthère de Cartier cuff in platinum, cultured pearls, yellow diamonds, brown diamonds, orange diamonds, onyx, tsavorite garnet and white diamonds, price on application (020 3147 4850; cartier.co.uk).

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her first jewellery designs. “These

5

earrings are inspired by the way geckos form pairs and stay together for life,� she explains. Fantasie Love Lizard earrings by Wendy Yue for Annoushka, in 18carat rose gold, with orange and yellow sapphire, orange garnet, rubellite and white diamond, £5,600 (020 7881 5828; annoushka-jewellery.com).

ULTRA tech

Mark Wilson, Ultratravel’s gadgets guru, selects the latest compact travelling kit, from pod tents to a ying suit

1

22

Making light of it 33

1 Pod tents From ÂŁ399 (01480 869000; podtents.com). Modular in design, these tents to be linked together with tunnels (sold separately) to form an accommodation system. Tents can be pitched in 10 minutes, packed into a rucksack and have “sleeping cellsâ€? inserted for extra privacy. 2 Nikon Aculon T01 ÂŁ45 (0330 123 0921; store. nikon.co.uk). These compact binoculars, with either 8x or 10x magnification, weigh less than an Amazon Kindle, have a central hinge so they can be folded, and come in bright colours, making them easy to find. 3 Sony A5000 From ÂŁ420, body only (0845 600 0124; sony.co.uk). The world’s lightest interchangeable-lens camera offers DSLR performance in an ultra-light 9.5oz body, making it ideal for travellers. Videos of 1,080p can be shot at 60 frames per second, and photographs sent to a smartphone using Wi-Fi.

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4 4 StellĂŠ Audio Pillar ÂŁ299 (stelleaudio.com/uk). A refreshing change from boxy portable speakers, this elegant but powerful Bluetooth model streams music wirelessly from a smartphone or through a 3.5mm cable (included). A built-in microphone means it can be used for phone calls, while the rechargeable battery lasts 15 hours. 5 Phoenix Fly Phantom 3 â‚Ź770/about ÂŁ640 (phoenix-fly.com). Wingsuits allow skydivers and BASE jumpers to experience soaring, bird-like flight before deploying their parachutes. Although this “beginnerâ€? suit requires users to have a British Parachute Association C licence and a minimum of 200 freefall jumps, it is an ideal first wingsuit. The wing size and profile make it easy for a novice to fly, yet in the hands of an experienced pilot the suit gives great all-round performance.

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6 Point 65n Mercury Solo ÂŁ950 (0046 8 663 0106; point65.com). This modular touring kayak snaps together in seconds and can be packed into the boot of an average-sized sport utility vehicle; an extra mid-piece, ÂŁ370 (not shown), turns it into a tandem. Padded cockpits come with cushioned seatpads and rudder pedals; wells with hatches can be used for storage.

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CI ON AAFFIIC NAADDOO

JACK HEUER HOROLOGIST

Motor racing in Monaco, modernist architecture in Brazil, skiing, and the pleasure of coming home to the Alps make this man tick

T

hough he studied to be an engineer, Jack Heuer never doubted that he would join the family watchmaking business set up in a tiny Swiss village by his great-grandfather, Edouard, in 1860. Motor-sport timing was its

specialism and Jack proved a natural, inheriting his father’s instinct for marketing and a keen eye for modern design. After joining Heuer in 1958, aged 26, he began travelling the world. The United States was first in his sights; he was intent on making Heuer the preferred watch brand for a new era of young Americans. By 1971, Steve McQueen had made Heuer watches covetable and sexy by sporting a Monaco – the world’s first square-dial watch – in the film Le Mans. Jack Heuer had turned the watch from a product that told the time into an accessory that people wanted to wear all the time. The TAG prefix emerged after the family negotiated the sale of its business to TAG, a manufacturer of high-tech F1 components, in 1985. In 2001, however, Jack Heuer returned as honorary president. Last year, his 81st, marked the 50th anniversary of his other benchmark design, the classic Heuer Carrera, named after the Carrera Panamericana road

‚‚

race in Mexico. Here, he muses on a lifetime of travel.

I first went to Brazil about 50 years ago, on a work trip to celebrate the 100th anniversary of our brand distributor in Rio de Janeiro. As a designer, I’ve always been drawn to architecture so I then flew on to Brasilia, the city designed by the famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, because I just loved his modern designs (above). One of our two sons spent five years working in Brazil and married a charming Brazilian lawyer, which made us visit the country a lot more.

Monaco isn’t normally my cup of tea, but when Formula1 is on it’s a great place to be. I’m amazed by the loudness of the cars – I can always tell by the noise, wherever I am standing, exactly where a car is on the circuit. When not in the McLaren hospitality tent I’ll be at the Hôtel de Paris (right). I like to eat at its Le Louis XV-Alain Ducasse restaurant.

§ Our long association with Hollywood started when the jeweller Barney Feldmar introduced me to some prop masters, who began to use our watches. Heuer developed the Game-Master, a stopwatch for film directors, in 1959. I recommend a visit to the Feldmar Watch Company on West Pico Boulevard.

‚‚

A

The notion of ‘home sweet home’ definitely applies to me. I have had the most wondeful travels but I always long for Bern, in the Alps.

t the age of five, I was put on skis and have loved the sport ever since. During my college years I joined a ski club and trained with a classmate, who was much better than me. We used to slalom together. When I was 20 and went to university in Zurich to study engineering, I joined the Swiss Academic Skiclub and started racing at a higher level. We raced not only in Switzerland, but also in Italy, France, Spain, Austria and Germany. Later on, I started to ski with a group of good friends, all excellent skiers, mostly in Zermatt or Verbier. Today, as someone with two artificial knees, I have to ski a bit more carefully, of course.

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ALAMY; GETTY

I never got to go to Mexico for the Carrera Panamericana car race, but I liked the word Carrera and knew the mother of a young racing driver who was killed there, so calling our watch the Carrera was a kind of homage. I’ve travelled a lot to Mexico City. The museums are extraordinary and my wife and I loved the Maya cities. I once tried to catch a swordfish in Acapulco, too.

“

Wine is social networking for civilised people, Facebook for those who want a life

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On a road trip through Napa and Sonoma, Sasha Abramsky observes the Silicon Valley set at play in a land of ďŹ ne wine, boutique hotels and great American restaurants. Plus, further south, Celia Walden and Piers Morgan uncork the pleasures of Santa Barbara’s vineyards

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Golden State Views over Napa Valley vineyards from the Auberge du Soleil resort, where the pool is always a comfortable 27 degrees

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only from the Peter Michael Winery but also from a select group of suppliers including Schramsberg, world-famous for its sparkling wines, Charles Heintz, Honig and Rudd. Most of these estates are open for tastings, though often by appointment only (see “How to live the Californian dreamâ€?, page 35). Together, the wines in Sir Peter’s cellars represent the cutting edge of Californian winemaking. With The Vineyard as my unofďŹ cial wine concierge, I set off on a three-day trip with a friend to experience the very best of the region’s wine, food and lodgings. Starting from Sacramento, where I have lived for the past decade, we headed south-west through Davis, Dixon and Vacaville to FairďŹ eld. The colours became more extreme as we left the I-80, one of America’s great cross-country roads, and drove west to the town of Napa itself. In late spring, the burned grass of the hillsides was as golden-brown as a Van Gogh haystack, while the green trees and vines took on ever-deeper hues. The noises of urban life began to dissipate. It was an

absence of sound that ďŹ rst struck me when we stopped for a capuccino at the Small World Cafe in Napa. In the window were dozens of model vintage cars, of the throaty sports and supercar variety. By contrast, many of the vehicles on the streets were muted. The Prius hybrid is the best-selling car in California these days – and the higher an area’s income, the more eco-friendly the trafďŹ c. In Napa, the Tesla electric car is more of a status symbol than a Rolls-Royce, cruising silently past the salons and upscale clothing stores, the Quent Condair Fine Art gallery and Joey’s Bakery, with its delightful cakes. Half an hour after ďŹ nishing our coffees, we were deep in wine country. Napa County has just four per cent of California’s wine-producing acreage, but it accounts for a third of the dollars generated by wine sales. Sonoma County is larger and its vineyards grow a wider variety of grapes. The scenery is more dramatic, the hills higher. There is a sense of menace, almost, to some of its densely wooded slopes. Where Napa’s broad valleys are

MAP ILLUSTRATION: RUSSELL COBB

view it as a sort of miracle,â€? said Sir Peter Michael on the phone, when I asked him about the landscape surrounding his winery in Knights Valley, northern California. “You sit with a glass of wine in hand, looking at the sunset. It is absolutely stunning territory.â€? Days later, as my claret Nissan Altima hybrid – a fashionable choice, as I was soon to learn – came gliding to a halt in the parking area, I could see what he meant. His main ofďŹ ce is a white shingle-and-timber building with a charming little bell tower poking up into a brilliant blue sky. Mount St Helena soars above deepgreen foothills ribbed with vines and, on hot days, eagles can be seen turning tight circles in the thermal currents. I’d imagined this area of Sonoma County, an hour’s drive north-east of San Francisco, to be familiar and somewhat tame, a subtler twin to Napa County, with its faux chateaux and coachloads of wine tourists. But there is nothing tame about Sonoma. Wild and beautiful, it recalls the paintings of Gregory Kondos, with their sunbrowned valleys, curvaceous hills and expanses of water in exuberant Mediterranean blues. Deer congregate near the huge solar panels that provide the estate’s energy. And, where deer hang out, fearsome mountain lions hunt. Brown bears are also known to frequent these hills, as do skunks, possums and coyotes – a who’s who of the wildlife headliners of the great American West. Sir Peter Michael is something of a headliner himself and, like California’s natural wonders, is larger than life. A British technology venture capitalist, he discovered the beauty of Sonoma-Napa in 1972 on weekend trips north from the California headquarters of his Quantel high-tech company. In the early 1980s, he bought hundreds of acres and planted vines on what was originally cattle-ranching land on the Sonoma side of the mountains. His aim was to create a world-class winery and a family retreat for generations of Michaels to come. In both, he succeeded. Back in England, his legacy is The Vineyard (see “Sonoma, Berkshireâ€?, page 35), a ďŹ ve-star hotel with an exceptional collection of Californian wines. They come not

Natural wonders Bottles being labelled (right), the produce of Sir Peter Michael’s vineyards (far right)

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sun-drenched, Sonoma’s are hemmed in by high hills. It is a mountain-biker’s paradise. Most visitors come to Sonoma-Napa not for the adventure sports but to eat in some of America’s ďŹ nest restaurants, including The French Laundry in Yountville, where reservations have to be made months in advance. More accessible are the Michelin-starred restaurant at the Auberge du Soleil resort, and Morimoto Napa, in the town of Napa itself, serving the delicate sushi creations of the chef and television star Masaharu Morimoto. Fine restaurants require ďŹ ne wines, which the Peter Michael Winery has been happy to supply. Virtually every Michelin-starred restaurant in America stocks the vineyard’s cabernets, says sales manager Peter Kay, including the signature Les Pavots (see review, opposite), and several stock its pinot noirs and chardonnays, too. That success is due to an extraordinary attention to terroir. Sir Peter’s team measures variations in the mineral content of the volcanic soil, and the moisture, sunlight and wind to which different parts of his land are exposed, then plants the grapes accordingly. In Sonoma County, famous for its micro-climates, planting a couple of thousand feet apart can result in very different conditions. The result is a set of superior wines, with delicate variations in texture and huge aromatic shifts from label to label. One can practically smell, touch and taste the earth’s varying qualities in each glass. Over lunch at the winery, Peter Kay chose wines to match our food. The ďŹ rst course, scallops, was accompanied by a La Carriere chardonnay. The second course, wild boar terrine, came with a glass of Ma Danseuse pinot noir, made from grapes grown on the estate’s Ma Danseuse vineyard. Sir Peter named it as a love note to his wife, Maggie, whom he met at a dance school in Croydon in the late 1950s. In the 1976 Judgment of Paris – a one-off blind tasting competition organised by a British wine merchant – California chardonnays and cabernet sauvignons ran away with the top prizes, proving to the world that Californian wine had arrived. That was the year that Sir

Peter, entertaining business associates at the Fairmont San Francisco hotel, tasted a top-end Chateau Montelena from Napa and was hooked. Yet even today, relatively few Californian wines are sold in Britain – something the pioneering winemaker is keen to change. “Wine,â€? he insists, “is social networking for civilised people; it is Facebook for those who want to have a life. The story begins in the vineyard, and after the bottle is opened, people tell their friends. The two greatest products to come out of the Golden State are technology and wine.â€? Our next stop was Schramsberg, the second-oldest winery in California. Situated just over the hills, on the Napa County side of the mountains, it is set in a landscape of lily ponds and has a fascinating history. In 1862 Jacob Schramsberg, a German immigrant, planted a vineyard up in the hills. A few years later he hired unemployed Chinese labourers, left stranded by the completion of the transcontinental railroad, to hand-dig a series of caves through the hillsides, in which to store his wines. Fast forward 150 years and those caves, in which the pick-marks of those labourers can still be seen, have been expanded. Inside are 2.7 million bottles of top-notch cabernet sauvignons as well as some of California’s best sparkling wines: an oenologist’s Fort Knox. One sparkling wine, the 2005 JSchram ($210/ÂŁ130) was listed by the American Robb Report magazine as one of the top 18 wines in the world. Since 1972, when President Nixon took several cases to China on his breakthrough visit to meet Chairman Mao, the brand has been a White House favourite. The Prince and Princess of Wales drank Schramsberg with Ronald Reagan in 1985; Queen Elizabeth and the Duke of Edinburgh shared a Brut RosĂŠ with George W Bush in 2007; and the Obamas have served Schramsberg at a number of state functions. Having sampled a few of the wines myself, I spent the night at Auberge du Soleil in the hills above the little Napa town of Rutherford. Its rooms, in adobe bungalow style, are scattered up the hillside; its landscaped gardens,

There is an extraordinary attention to terroir. One can practically smell, touch and taste the earth’s varying qualities in each glass WEST COAST WINE

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ART OF THE STATE Ultratravel’s pick of the ďŹ nest Californian wines Schramsberg 2010 Blanc de Blancs This 100 per cent chardonnay sparkling wine is a White House favourite, offered to guests by Presidents from Nixon to Obama. It opens with fresh aromas of green apple, pineapple and ripe grapefruit, with nuances of fresh-baked brioche and lemon tart. Price: ÂŁ25.94.

Peter Michael Winery 2010 Les Pavots Made mainly from cabernet sauvignon grapes, this signature red graces the tables of countless Michelin-starred restaurants. Extremely full-bodied, it makes rich, ripe fruit impressions on the palate and the nose. Price: ÂŁ157.72.

Honig 2012 Sauvignon Blanc The fruit for this crisp, fresh, medium-bodied white comes from Honig’s sustainably farmed vineyard in Rutherford, among others. It has aromas of honeysuckle, peach and grapefruit and tropical flavours of mango, kiwi, lemongrass and grapefruit. Price: £14.52.

Waterstone 2011 Chardonnay Carneros Made from grapes grown in dense clay soils close to the sea in the Carneros region of Napa, this chardonnay has bright, concentrated citrus, pear, apple and nectarine flavours, softened by fermentation in French-oak barrels. Price ÂŁ14.52.

Rudd 2009 Oakville Estate Red An autumn of long, warm days allowed all varietals (cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, petite verdot, malbec) to be picked at the same time and cofermented together, making the 2009 layered, sweet and sensual with aromas of mocha, cloves and violets. Price: ÂŁ130.41.

All wines are available from

Eco-friendly Napa Valley vintner Stephanie Honig fills a bird-feeder, to attract pest-eating birds to the vineyards

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The Vineyard Cellars (01635 528770; vineyardcellars.com).

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planted with semi-tropical flowers, are dotted with metal sculptures placed discreetly among the trees and shrubs. One thing you notice in Napa County is an obsessive attention to detail, with an emphasis on absolute numerical precision – as befits a wineland so intertwined with the fortunes of high-tech high-flyers. At Auberge du Soleil, the pool is maintained at exactly 27 degrees. In the acclaimed restaurant, presided over by chef Robert Curry, $175 gets you an ounce, to the dot, of caviar. My dinner there comprised lobster, a shot glass full of creamy fennel soup, halibut, squab (with a far from local Châteauneuf du Pape), steak pavé the rich purple of a Roman imperial toga, and dainty chocolate dumplings encircled by vanilla ice cream and drizzled with olive oil. The great Californian essayist Joan Didion once wrote that “great hotels have always been social ideas, flawless mirrors to the particular societies they service”. Auberge du Soleil’s society is the Google-and-Facebook crowd – wealthy but casual, as reluctant to turn up for a $500 dinner in a jacket and tie as to show up driving a RollsRoyce. They wear jeans and drive Subarus or Teslas, and they expect to be given a wine menu on an iPad, not on printed paper. At Auberge, they are not disappointed. Next day we visited the Rudd estate, owned by the family behind the Dean&DeLuca deli chain. Its entrance is formal, wood-panelled and old-worldly, but underground all is modern. The cellars are antiseptically clean, lined with concrete and containing smooth, giant concrete eggs in which some of the wines are fermented. Visitors pay $80 for a food-and-wine tasting that often includes produce from the Rudds’ own gardens. In those gardens stand eight ancient olive trees, each brought by helicopter from Humboldt County, 200 miles away. Rudd produces a terrific set of reds, including the noted Rudd Oakville Estate Red (see review, page 32), but my favourite was Samantha’s Cabernet Sauvignon, named after proprietor Leslie Rudd’s daughter. Having just been shown around the estate by Samantha, it seemed only polite to have a drink in her honour. he final winery on my list was the Honig estate, a casual, family-run affair noted for its environmental sustainability. The Honigs don’t use fertilisers or pesticides, and instead rely heavily on bringing in birds to eat pests that threaten the vines. In German, Honig means honey – hence the bee logo on the estate’s bottles. My favourite here was a dessert wine made from sauvigon blanc grapes, grown near the Napa River and affected by the botrytis fungus which lends the wine a delicious honeysuckle flavour. It would be the perfect partner to foie gras, said winemaker Stephanie Honig, our host. On our final evening in Napa County, we stopped in the town of St Helena. It was far too hot to go hiking in the hills, too hot even to stroll through town. We passed half an hour sampling olive oils out of shot glasses at Long Meadow Ranch, including the pricey but delicious Prato Lungo, made from olives grown on ancient trees and, with its peppery kick, ideal for dipping bread in before dinner. That took place at Solbar, the Michelin-starred restaurant at Solage Calistoga. They seated us outside, next to a long fire pit and opposite an Olympic-size pool ringed by palm trees. I ordered salad followed by duck confit, with yet another fine local cabernet. Dessert was an over-the-top bread pudding, with a dolphin-shaped scoop of vanilla ice cream and an apple crisp on top. My friend looked up. “That’s Joe Montana,” he said quietly. And it was. There at the table next to us was America’s most famous footballer. We raised our glasses and toasted wine country. It was time to head back to the real world.

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Warm welcome Solbar restaurant and, below, the reception at Auberge du Soleli

WEST COAST WINE

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HOW TO LIVE THE CALIFORNIAN DREAM

WHERE TO TASTE

so shortly after their visit.

Rosé. Tours of the winery are

Details: 707 963 1211;

Honig, Rutherford

Details: 01635 589414; email

by appointment only, with five

aubergedusoleil.com

The winery is famous for its

jameshocking@vineyard

scheduled each day, and

environmental ethos: solar

cellars.com

cost $50 per person.

WHERE TO EAT

panels, bluebirds (which eat

Rudd Estate, Oakville

Details: 707 942 4558;

Solbar, Calistoga

destructive insects) and barn

Tours incorporate not only the

schramsberg.com

Offers everything from duck

owls (which eat gophers),

vineyards but also the gardens

rather than herbicides or

where fruit and vegetables are

WHERE TO STAY

soft-shell crab. Main courses

pesticides. Tours are by

grown for the restaurant. Tours

Auberge du Soleil,

cost from about $15, and

appointment only and cost

are by appointment only and

Rutherford

wines range from table wine to

$15/£9.20 per person, waived

cost $80 per person.

One of California’s top hotels,

Harlan Estate cabernet

with every $35/£21 purchase.

Details: 707 944 8577;

with rooms that are single-

sauvignons for $1,200.

Details: 001 707 963 5618;

ruddwines.com

storey adobe-style units. The

Details: 707 226 0850;

honigwine.com

Schramsberg, Calistoga

pool, with a quiet bar, is

solagecalistoga.com

Peter Michael

Best known for its sparkling

a perfect place to relax

Long Meadow Ranch,

Winery, Knights Valley

wines and cabernet

before dinner at the resort’s

St Helena

Specialises in cabernet

sauvignons, the estate also

Michelin-starred restaurant.

Offers wine and olive-oil

sauvignons and chardonnays,

produces a flavourful Brut

Rooms from $700 per night.

tastings, as well as tasting

confit to wild pecan-crusted

using grapes from the on-site

menus prepared with produce

vineyards, as well as two other

from the ranch and wines

properties owned by Sir Peter

from its two vineyard estates.

Michael. Tours are by

Wine tastings cost $10,

appointment only and will be

lunch with wines $85, and

personalised by James

tasting menus $65.

Hocking, director of wine for

Details: 707 963 4555;

The Vineyard Group. There is

longmeadowranch.com

no charge, but visitors are expected to have bought PMW wines before or to do

Overleaf, immersed in the wines of Santa Barbara

SONOMA, BERKSHIRE A TASTE OF THE GOLDEN STATE BACK HOME To sample and learn about Californian wines without leaving Britain, join one of the courses at The Vineyard (the-vineyard.co.uk), Sir Peter Michael’s five-star hotel in Stockcross, Berkshire. Its monthly Wine Schools, led by the hotel’s experts James Hosking and Alan Holmes, cover the basics and cost £30 (£144.50 with an overnight stay and breakfast). The next one takes place on March 5, from 6.30pm-8pm. For those who want an internationally recognised qualification in wine, there are three courses endorsed by the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET). Level 1 lasts one day and covers wine styles, food and wine pairing and the correct way to store and serve wine, and includes a three-course lunch with wines and a tour of

Bon Voyage (0800 316 0194; bon-voyage.co.uk) is offering a five-night stay in California from £5,995 per person. The price includes return Virgin Upper Class flight from London Heathrow to San Francisco, b&b accommodation at Auberge Du Soleil for three nights, and at Solage Calistoga for two nights, plus transfers, tours and tastings at the Schramsberg, Honig and Rudd wineries.

The Vineyard’s 30,000-bottle cellar. The course costs £150 and runs on selected Sundays: April 6 and May 18. Level 2 lasts three days and covers grape varieties, wine regions, food pairing, spirits, sparkling and fortified wines, and includes lunch with paired wines and a tasting of 44 wines and four spirits. The course costs £385 and runs on Mondays: March 31, April 7 and 14, May 19 and 26, and June 2. The more detailed Level 3 course costs £675 and runs across five days in April: 1, 2, 8, 15 and 29. For information, bookings and packages combining courses and accommodation, call 01635 589407.

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MR&MRS MORGAN They fell for each other over fine French wines. But bathing in Californian cabernet doesn’t have quite the same effect

ANDREW CROWLEY; DAN GOLDSMITH/SCOPE FEATURES; FOX SEARCHLIGHT

M

HE SAYS

y father has given me only two pieces of advice in his life: “Always be nice to policemen” and “Drink the best French wine you can afford”. I have focused considerable energy on nurturing both tips for the past 48 years, successfully maintaining both my liberty and a high-grade Bordeaux and Burgundy-enhanced palate. American wine has never held the same allure. It can be very good, but never quite as good as its French counterparts. The same applies to its cheese, fashion sense and gun laws. But that brilliant movie Sideways made me at least want to try to be persuaded. So Celia and I drove the 90 minutes from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara, where it was filmed, for a weekend of self-indulgent barrel-guzzling. Everything in Santa Barbara, you quickly discover, revolves around wine. They produce it, drink it, enthusiastically debate its merits, and even scrub you in it here. I’m not sure what Utopia looks or feels like. But I now know what it smells like. My wife arrived back from her spa treatment at the enchanting El Encanto hotel, exuding a strong aroma of the delicious pinot noir she had been massaged in. “A magnificent vintage!” I exclaimed, unfortunately forgetting that the only time Celia wants to hear the word “vintage” is when she is shopping for clothes. Tucked up in the hills overlooking this quaint little city, the El Encanto is an oasis of high-class serenity. Our suite was spacious and well equipped, and the service friendly and efficient. Our meals, whether scrambled eggs and smoked salmon in bed for breakfast, fresh oysters by the infinity pool for lunch, or dinner in the absurdly romantic candle-lit, sea-view terrace restaurant, were consistently good. But I viewed the hotel merely as a very pleasing port in a storm of alcohol. On the second day, we drove an hour into wine country, to a family-run winery called Grassini. It was a spectacular journey through miles of vineyards (Sideways saw the number of winemakers in the area rocket), until we arrived at our location, a delightful wooden winery tucked away in an area appropriately named Happy Canyon. Grassini produces more than 2,000 bottles each harvest, and the family samples every single one, then grades them into four categories to sell to the public. We tasted each of the four, over a sumptuous lunch by the vineyards, then had a surprisingly fascinating tour of the winemaking process. Later that day, I took our daughter Elise to Santa Barbara zoo, where she out-stared a gorilla, giggled with the giraffes, and ran away from a roaring lion. Then Celia and I spent the evening sampling a few fun bars down by the sea. But everything here eventually comes back to the wine. Before we left, Celia went for a second pinot scrub and came back with lust in her eyes. “Sorry,” I said, sadly, “but I think you’re corked.”

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‘Everything in Santa Barbara revolves around wine; they even scrub you in it here. I’m not sure what Utopia looks or feels like. But I now know what it smells like’ – PIERS

Wine and water A still from the film Sideways, above, which has attracted thousands of extra visitors to California. Top: the infinity pool at El Encanto, overlooking the Pacific

SHE SAYS

ine has always been the leitmotif of my relationship with Piers. I was wooed with magnums of Chassagne-Montrachet, rendered limp and compliant by a fine Gevrey Chambertin on the night of our engagement, and kept in a lightly soused state by my husband for the whole first year of our marriage – presumably in order to delay the inevitable “Oh God what have I done?” moment of sobriety. Then I got pregnant, moved to LA, became a mother – none of which are conducive to heavy drinking – and took a break with the wine. Which is why wandering around the grounds of El Encanto in Santa Barbara (possibly the only city in California where wine is considered a pleasure – not a moral and ethical violation) in a bathrobe and waffle slippers, with a glass of pinot noir in my hand, feels like coming home. It helps that I stink of wine. That every pore on my finely exfoliated body is exuding a rich cabernet-like scent, and that my hair smells like it has been rinsed through with pinot grape elixir, which of course it has. I’ve just had the pinot and cabernet crush sugar-scrub at the hotel spa – which I recommend doing after an afternoon at the vineyards. When I say “vineyards”, I mean “vineyard”. Piers, who has the attention span of an ADD-affected gnat, did his usual thing of asking our ebullient tour guide, Matt Cooper of Coastal Concierge, “What’s the best one to see if you could only see one?” (He does this in museums, too, to the obvious consternation of the staff.) So off we went to the Grassini Family Vineyards, where we sampled a whole series of merlots and petit verdots over a sumptuous picnic lunch. Spitting out the wine, I’m glad to find, isn’t done here, which is why, when we’re driven back through “Happy Canyon” to the hotel, we’re both feeling pretty damned happy. It’s a state only heightened by a brisk 50 lengths in the infinity pool overlooking the Pacific, an hour-long scrub and vinotherapy massage, and more pinot, along with a cheese plate, on the terrace of our luxury suite. By eight o’clock I am so pinoted-up that my husband is just a blurry, full-bodied shape extended in front of the flat-screen TV on the California king-sized bed. “Sorry,” he grins, “but I think you’re corked.” Frankly, I don’t know what is sadder: that he interpreted my pie-eyed gaze as libidinous – or that he has spent the past 48 hours thinking up that line. Piers Morgan and Celia Walden were guests of El Encanto (0845 077 2222; elencanto.com) in Santa Barbara, California. Prices start at £316 per night, based on two sharing a Superior Bungalow. A 50-minute pinot and cabernet crush sugar-scrub in The Spa at El Encanto costs £96 and the Classic Wine Country Tour, with Coastal Concierge (001 805 265 6065; sbcoastalconcierge.com), costs from £301 per person.

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PRIVATE ISLANDS

For the man who has everything

Megayachts, football clubs and Lear jets are de rigueur for the super-rich, but the ultimate possession is a private island. The good news is, some of them can be rented. Lisa Grainger stays on Laucala, the idyllic Fijian home of Red Bull billionaire Dietrich Mateschitz, then joins Sir Richard Branson on Necker LCKI8KI8M<C

All mine Laucala island seen from the air, with the secluded Peninsula Villa in the foreground. Inset, far left: horse-riding on the beach

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THE ENGLAND BRIEFCASE •

ASPINALOFLONDON.COM •

0845 052 6900

T In harmony The glass-ended lap pool on Laucala, top, an island abundant with pools and water. Above: a musician at the Cultural Village where local traditions are kept alive

he American millionaire Malcolm Forbes had just about every toy a man could want: a Boeing 727, a series of ďŹ ve yachts (all called The Highlander), hot-air balloons, a French château, a collection of HarleyDavidsons. Before he died, Forbes declared that there was only one material possession from which he never wanted to be parted – his Fijian island, Laucala, where he is buried. Looking out from his gravestone there, inscribed with the words “When Alive, He Livedâ€?, it is obvious why he wanted this to be his ďŹ nal resting place. If Laucala isn’t heaven, I’m not sure what is. In terms of natural riches, the 3,500-acre PaciďŹ c island has it all: steep mountains with views over inky seas and turquoise bays, subtropical forests burbling with birdsong and lit up with exotic owers, and underground aquifers full of fresh water. The air is sweet with the smells of fruit trees and coconut. A dozen beaches fringe its shores. And in the distance a reef, rich with Technicolor coral and marine life, protects it from the sea. The island is so picture-perfect, in fact, that it is almost kitsch in its beauty: as unspoilt today as it was when the Dutch sailor Abel Tasman explored these waters in the 17th century. Fortunately, Laucala’s new owner, Dietrich Mateschitz, not only relishes this natural bounty but is also obsessed with protecting it. When the Austrian Red Bull billionaire bought the island from the Forbes family in 2003 for $10million, he insisted that there was to be as little impact on the environment as possible. What he wanted was

a Fijian resort that he could y over in his little Husky oatplane without knowing it was there. Today, just a tiny sliver in the north of the island is inhabited. When creating the 18-hole golf course, with glorious views over glossy coconut plantations, the Scottish designer David McLay Kidd was told to cut down as few trees as possible. The owner’s dream was to make the island totally self-sufďŹ cient (it is currently 80 per cent so), hence the 240-acre farm with its free-range pigs, cattle, chickens and quails. Laucala also has a vast herb garden, a temperature-controlled nursery for growing exotic plants and three enormous hydroponic greenhouses in which to nurture vegetables that wouldn’t survive in the humid, insect-infested soil outdoors. Best of all, Mateschitz is happy to share all of this. “He’s here mainly in August, with his girlfriend and son,â€? said the new general manager Andrew Thomson, who formerly headed up Amanresorts. “It was built for him and his friends, but there are only so many who want to come – or can come. So rather than let staff get bored when he’s not here, and to let others enjoy it too, he decided to share it.â€? Though opening up the island to visitors sounds like altruism, for Mateschitz it is business. His aim is to make Laucala one of the top three hotels in the world, with a ďŹ vestar tariff to match. To achieve this, every detail has been thought about, whether it is in the 25 spacious ocean-facing villas, each with its own beach or tropical garden, or in the ďŹ ve restaurants, from a plantation-style house overlooking manicured lawns to a no-shoes Pool Bar sheltered by towering “petalsâ€? of thatch. The dive centre, meanwhile, is

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“

When you have the highest ratio of staf to guests anywhere in the world – 350 to a maximum of 80, or 13 staf to every room – virtually anything is possible

“

equipped with myriad water toys – and soon, a DeepFlight Super Falcon submarine, for which the owner paid more than a million pounds. In the gym and spa, the same money-no-object ethos prevails, while the trademark attention to detail is repeated in the Cultural Village which celebrates Fijian crafts and traditions. The best thing about Laucala, though, is its pools. Most islanders around the world have problems sourcing fresh water. Not here. Everywhere you look there are torrents of the stuff: coursing down hills into ponds covered in water lilies, cascading down waterfalls beside bars, glowing turquoise against the glass end of the lap pool, and filling the massive 60,000sqft landscaped swimming pool, dotted with islands, that extends right to the beach. In my two-bedroom overwater villa, I even had my own pool set into black volcanic rock – albeit filled with seawater rather than fresh. Over three days, I swam in it only twice. Instead, I showered outdoors beside crashing waves, wallowed among hibiscus petals in my round wooden tub, or lounged on my own expansive deck with a watermelon juice in my hand, or perhaps a square of carrot cake delivered as if by magic every afternoon. I had suspected that the food at Laucala would be good because Mateschitz – or DM as he is affectionately known on the island – also owns the renowned Ikarus restaurant in Salzburg. What I hadn’t expected was for it to be among the best I have ever tasted – not just in a hotel, but anywhere. The Australian chef, Anthony Healy, may be only 27 but he has been cooking since he was 15, earning his spurs in London at Les Trois Garçons and outside Paris at La Côte Saint Jacques. Like

Mateschitz, he is obsessed with sustainability. As well as producing meat and vegetables on the island’s farm, he buys fish from local fishermen and catches it himself with a speargun. His aim, with the help of Thomson, is to produce in two years the very best Wagyu beef. In the meantime, Healy’s seven-course degustation menu delivers delicate concoctions with enormous punch, from rich morsels of beef tortellini with charcoal purée and white-tomato foam to the firmest crayfish with papaya. Even the croissants at breakfast are as crisp and buttery as in Paris – but served without the Parisian attitude. But then, the attitude here couldn’t be more positive. Fiji is the Land of Yes, and on Laucala you get the feeling that anything is possible. Want to hike a mountain at dawn, go diving, horse-riding, water-skiing and have a massage in a day? Sure, no problem (I tested that one out). No sooner had I strolled off the beach than a smiling, flower-bedecked Fijian offered me a freshly-squeezed tangerine juice – “with ice, just as you like”. At night, trainers were whisked away and returned, sans mud; laundry was delivered wrapped in tissue; and fresh flowers were placed by my bed. But then, when you have the highest ratio of staff to guests anywhere in the world – 350 employees to a maximum of 80 visitors, or 13 staff to every room – and one of the world’s top hoteliers is in charge, pretty much anything is possible. At the charming thatched spa there are nine therapists on hand to administer virtually any treatment you fancy, and at the golf club Tony Christie, a New Zealand PGA-tour pro, is there to give lessons. In each of the restaurants, the chefs are primed to receive guests at any time. If you want Thai

Tropical taste On Laucala, birds, above, provide a vivid backdrop to breakfast. Squid-ink tapioca with papaya spaghetti and herbs, below. Right: the vast freshwater pool that extends to the beach

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Flights from *

£62

rtn

A weekend to savour

Jersey bursts with places to enjoy a superb meal or a perfect pint. Michelin-starred places, where the oysters are so fresh, you can still taste the sea. Coastal places, where gastropubs and trendy cafés serve crab sandwiches so full, you’ll need the miles of breathtaking beaches to walk them of! Country places deep in the island’s lush interior, where cosy inns serving fresh-from-the-field produce are tucked away. And stylish places where, afer a day exploring, you can simply relax and enjoy a soothing spa treatment. Add a mild climate, easy travel by air or sea from the UK and great-value ofers, and you’ve discovered Jersey.

jersey.com

*Return price per person, including taxes, with easyJet from Gatwick. Price correct at time of print.

Holiday home A Plantation Villa, with its own swimming pool, set in a coconut grove adjoining the beach at Laucala

food, you can just show up at Seagrass restaurant, which is perched on a cliff, and they will whip up ginger prawns or sear beef for you on the teppanyaki grill. Prefer soft-shell crab sushi? The Pool Bar staff will be waiting – day and night – with freshly caught critters and rice. Even at the Plantation House, with its seven-course degustation menu, guests are not required to make a booking. “We want them to feel they can be as spontaneous as they like,” Healy told me. Right now, there are rarely many guests on the island. Laucala is not advertised and no special deals are offered on the villas (which cost from £2,500 to £24,500 a night, including food, drink and activities, with a minimum stay of four nights). One gets the feeling that the publicity-shy DM doesn’t really care much for other guests, and would be happier if no one else was there at the same time as him. But, given that he spends only one month a year on the island, having other people here helps to cover the costs – which, when you have four planes and a gas-guzzling barge to maintain, some 3,000 litres of diesel to pay for every day and 350 staff salaries to fund, must be fairly substantial. However, since Red Bull made $1.3billion (about £961million) in sales last year and DM owns 49 per cent of the company, the costs to him of maintaining Laucala are probably pretty small beer. For many luxury travellers, the charges aren’t excessive either. Take over the whole island and fill it with 80 friends – as Elle Macpherson did last year for her wedding – and it will cost $1,875 (about £1,140) a head, all-inclusive. That is the price of an average five-star hotel suite in most big cities – and significantly less than David Copperfield’s Musha Cay in the Exuma Islands or North Island in the Seychelles (see “Five of the world’s best private islands”, right). I’m not saying Laucala is a bargain, but it is a place that makes you feel, as Malcolm Forbes put it, that you have lived. And that is difficult to put a price on. Bailey Robinson (01488 689700; baileyrobinson.com) is offering seven nights at Laucala Island from £20,000 per person, based on two adults sharing. The price includes all food, drink and activities, plus transfers and return business-class flight with Cathay Pacific.

FIVE OF THE BEST PRIVATE ISLANDS All prices listed below are for rental

NORTH ISLAND, Seychelles

local plants and oils. Watersports

of the whole island, per night.

The honeymoon retreat of the Duke

range from wakeboarding to

and Duchess of Cambridge has 11

fishing. For romance, spend one

MUSHA CAY, The Bahamas

eco-friendly yet super-chic open-

night in the hilltop “sleep-out bure”,

The 150-acre getaway of the

plan villas. It has a spa, gym and

a thatched open-air bedroom. From

magician David Copperfield has five

pool built into giant granite rocks.

NZ$9,160 (about £4,600) for eight

houses, and is surrounded by 10 of

Wildlife and conservation are key

guests; dolphinislandfiji.com

his other islands (one of them with

here, hence activities such as

a landing strip for those with bigger

COCO PRIVÉ KUDA HITHI,

jets). Facilities on Musha Cay

Maldives

include a beach cinema, a floodlit

This small, private Maldivian-owned

tennis court, a billiards table that

island, opened in 2012, is the

once belonged to Houdini, and an

slickest home in the country, with

on-site entertainer. The best of the

interiors by Guz Wilkinson in the

40 beaches is a long sand spit on

two-storey Palm Residence and the

which lunch can be served for two.

five one-bedroom guest villas, two

From $37,500 (about £22,600) for up to 12 guests; mushacay.com

of which have private infinity pools. diving with conservationists,

The chef cooks to order and there

walking with Aldabra giant tortoises

are yachts, kayaks, speedboats and

MOTU TANÉ, French Polynesia

and lessons in astronomy. From

watersports equipment, spa

The make-up mogul François Nars

€59,798 (about £48,900) for up to

therapists 24 hours a day, and

bought this when holidaying off

22 guests; north-island.com

transfers in a smart white yacht.

Bora Bora, then got his friend

From $32,500 (about £19,620) for

Christian Liaigre to create chic

DOLPHIN ISLAND, Fiji

wooden interiors, and Pascal

The 14-acre holiday home of Alex

Cribier to landscape life outdoors.

van Heeren, owner of The Huka

The island has a 26ft Boston Whaler,

Retreats and Grande Provence

kayaks and activities such as ray-

Estate in Franschhoek, was

feeding and submarine tours.

refurbished in 2011 to provide

Tahitian lobster feasts, featuring

a “luxury castaway experience”.

local dancers, are a highlight. From

Interiors are relaxed yet smart, food

$38,000 (about £23,000) for up to

is based around tropical fruit and

12 guests; motutaneisland.com

seafood, and spa treatments utilise

12 guests; cococollection.com

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PRIVATE ISLANDS

Everybody’s party island Kate Moss celebrated her 40th birthday on Necker, a Caribbean retreat for celebrities, statesmen, royal guests and fun-seekers. In the wake of a £17-million refurbishment, we check into the Branson residence

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Virgin territory Clockwise from main picture, the pool by the beach; a watersports instructor; scarlet ibises; Bali High and Bali Low, linked to the main house by a zip-wire; an Aldabra giant tortoise; Necker from the sea; a warm welcome at breakfast; and the living room of the Great House, rebuilt after a fire in 2011 PICTURES JENNY ZARINS

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DEAR HOMELAND GEM OF THE SEA. ISLAND OF BEAUTY, my heart longs for thee...

The Heritage Guernsey Festival is the celebration of a small island with a big history. Over 35 days jam-packed with daily events makes it a must-do for history lovers this spring. Coastal castles will be brought to life, doors will be opened on wartime bunkers and historic towers and the island will put the ags out for Liberation Day.

For more information go to: visitguernsey.com/heritagefestival

N

T

here is something slightly disconcerting about being on the prettiest privately owned landmass in the north-eastern British Virgin Islands and finding that, rather than lying about, everyone is pretty busy. It may be only 9.30am, but the owner is already on a verandah, in a meeting with the CEO of the largest company in his multi-million-dollar empire. His son is on a sunlounger answering emails about his film company, his wife is bustling between kitchen and bar, and his daughter is panting on the stairs, having spent the last hour doing hill sprints. Relaxing island life this is not. But then, this isn’t a normal island. It’s the permanent home of one of the world’s most energetic men, Sir Richard Branson – who has had a finger in almost every entrepreneurial pie, from trains and phones to space travel – and his family have converged to see the new incarnation of their old house, destroyed by a fire in 2011 and rebuilt at a cost of £17 million. “It’s fantastic, like the old house but on steroids,” the 63-year-old billionaire said, strolling around in his office gear: faded shorts, T-shirt and sunglasses. “The outdoor areas are bigger, the bar is bigger, there’s more space to entertain. What we wanted was the old house, but more spacious, something that would carry the memories through.” The difference between Necker and other luxury private islands such as David Copperfield’s Musha Cay (see “Five other paradise islands”, page 47) or Dietrich Mateschitz’s Laucala (page 43) is that Branson’s is his full-time home – and feels like it. That is one reason why celebrities, statesmen and royalty have chosen to hang out there. Kate Moss recently held her 40th birthday party on Necker; Larry Page, the co-founder of Google, got married there; Jimmy Wales, Wikipedia’s co-founder, spent his honeymoon on the island; and the late Princess of Wales took William and Harry. Other big names, from Nelson Mandela to Kate Winslet, have been on holiday to Necker. However, this is not a hotel where you are waited on hand and foot. It’s more like a big house-party pad, in which anyone can do anything and no one bats an eyelid. Guests help themselves at the bar, and lunches are mostly relaxed buffets to which they can wander in a bikini or shorts – whether it is for sushi served in a flowerbedecked canoe in the beach pool, or a traditional British Sunday roast at the 22-seater dining table. The 80 staff are the least stuffy I’ve met: good fun, good-looking and full of bounce, as keen to pour the perfect cocktail as they are to teach you how to kite-surf, jet-ski, sail, waterski or cruise aboard the eight-berth Necker Belle catamaran. In the Great House, which sleeps 18, the rooms are spacious and stocked with comfortable Royal Pedic mattresses, 500-thread sheets and handy basics such as Island Company sunscreen, rainbow-coloured condoms and Sun Bum lip balm. Despite these comforts, Necker doesn’t scream “billionaire”. It was built, Branson said, “for fun, for people who want to get away, relax and do what they want without being hassled or disturbed”. It is also fairly idiosyncratic, with surprises round every sandy corner. For a start, the hot tub is not on an easily accessible verandah but on the roof (“If you’re going to go into space, you might as well get a good look at it,” says Branson, whose next mission will be a flight aboard Virgin

Sometimes Larry Page, of Google fame, kiteboards over from his neighbouring island, on one occasion wearing a Christmas outfit

Galactic with his family). The décor is largely Balinese (“I fell in love with Bali in the Seventies, but it’s on the other side of the world, so I thought I’d try to recreate the island here”). Not content with one tennis court, Branson has two, on which players from Navratilova to Nadal come to play an annual charity tournament and where Branson pits himself against a pro every day. There’s a zip-wire to one of the beaches (on which guests must wear helmets, but which the ever-game Branson, one suspects, might fly down with a cocktail and a nude model on his back). hen he bought the island in 1979 for $180,000, hardly a bird or animal lived on it. Today, Necker is teeming with wildlife. Two ponds glimmer with bright pink flamingos and red-feathered ibises that inhabited the British Virgin Islands before they were hunted out. The bushes rustle with once-endemic Aldabra giant tortoises (one, called ET, with minor burn marks from the house fire) and about 400 blue-tinged rock iguanas that survived only on Anagarda, 18 miles away. In dense tropical foliage near the beach, behind nets, live seven species of lemur. “Some people might think it’s crazy introducing an African species here,” Branson said, “but until the government in Madagascar starts to protect them, someone needs to ensure their survival.” One species, the black-and-white ruffed lemur, is so critically endangered there are thought to be only about 300 left: nine of them are on Necker. And last year, he added enthusiastically, every species had babies – which, “when, or if Madagascar becomes more stable, we can reintroduce into the wild”. Not that he will be on Necker that much next year to enjoy them. Having bought the nearby Moskito Island in

W

2007, he is now building three houses – one for himself and his wife Joan, plus one for each of his two married children – as well as a “social house” where he can meet up with the eight friends invited to build on the island, too. “Necker is now booked about 12 months a year,” he explained, “and often guests want it to themselves. So, when they do, we will need somewhere else to go.” Few of his personal guests will want him to leave, however. Since he came to live on Necker permanently last year (not for tax reasons, he insists, but because “I’m almost 65 and have looked forward to a time and age to justify living here”), he has had scores of friends to stay, from The Elders (a non-governmental organisation, originally chaired by Nelson Mandela, which tries to resolve conflicts) and OceanElders (with its mission to clean up the ocean) to The B Team, which aims to make business a force for good, as well as scores of pretty celebrities, from Natalie Imbruglia to the Duchess of Cambridge. Sometimes Larry Page, of Google fame, kiteboards over from his neighbouring island (one Christmas, a watersports guide told me, wearing a Christmas outfit). “Everyone wants to come,” Branson said. “You only have to look around you to see why. I’ve never found anywhere as beautiful. The Maldives, perhaps, but they’re very flat. The BVIs have hills, pristine rainforest, amazing sea life, delightful people – and Necker is only three hours from New York. You can’t help but fall in love with it.” Looking out from my balcony, over a turquoise bay and creamy sand beach to Bill Gates’s favourite room, the Bali High pavilion, it is hard to disagree. Overleaf, how Necker Island and Laucala compare

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THE FACTS

Laucala vs Necker How does Mateschitz’s vast Fijian island compare with Branson’s dot of a domaine in terms of facilities and service?

Laucala Island, Fiji

Necker Island, BVI

Owner Dietrich Mateschitz, the 69-year-old

Owner Richard Branson, the 63-year-old British

Austrian co-owner of the Red Bull drinks company,

proprietor of the Virgin empire, with an estimated

with an estimated worth of $5.3 billion (£3.2 billion).

worth of $4.6 billion (about £2.8 billion).

Size 3,500 acres.

Size 74 acres.

Accommodation

¿¿¿¿¿

Accommodation ¿¿¿¿

Twenty-five one, two and three-bedroom villas,

Seven houses, including the cosy 10-bedroom Great

each with its own beach or garden, pool, big living

House, sleeping 18 adults (two in the enormous

space and bathroom, as well as plasma TV, Bose

Penthouse) and six children in a bunkroom; plus six

iPod docks, WiFi and fridges stocked with every

simple Balinese-style villas, sleeping an additional 12.

drink from champagne to, of course, Red Bull.

Price ¿¿¿

Price ¿¿¿¿

For exclusive use, $60,000 (about £36,500) a night

For exclusive use, $150,000 (about £90,320) a night

for up to 30 guests (equating to $2,000 per person).

for up to 60 guests (equating to $2,500 per person).

Sharing the island, $27,475 a week per couple in

Sharing the island, from $4,200 a night double,

the six “Celebration Weeks” when this is possible.

all-inclusive – a relative bargain, considering the

Activities ¿¿¿¿

high standards of service, food and recreation.

Two tennis courts (with a pro for lessons), as well

Activities ¿¿¿¿¿

as watersports toys from waterskis, windsurfers

The watersports centre is equipped with a wide

and kite-boards to fishing boats and small yachts.

range of toys, from surfboards to an antique

The main house has a rooftop hot tub, a full-sized

wooden yacht, and has excellent tutors. Other

snooker table and, overlooking the sea, a spa.

facilities include a four-room spa, an 18-hole golf

Food ¿¿¿

course (with a pro for lessons), stables with eight

Hearty, family-style. Breakfast is the best meal of the

Fijian horses, a cultural centre and a Kids Club.

day: fresh fruit, muesli, amber-yolked eggs, pancakes.

Food ¿¿¿¿¿

Lunch buffets include salads and local dishes (and

Four restaurants, run by the Australian star chef

British roast dinners on Sunday), but surprisingly

Anthony Healy, serve seriously good food, from

little fish. Dinners are tasty rather than gourmet.

light Mediterranean and Asian cuisine to gourmet

Ease of getting there ¿¿¿

degustation menus. Fruit and vegetables are grown

The London Gatwick to Antigua leg takes eight hours,

on site, and chickens and pigs are reared for meat.

followed by a private 1hr 15min flight to Tortola with

Ease of getting there ¿

VI Airlink ($2,900 one-way for up to nine passengers),

Fiji is at the other side of the world from London:

then a half-hour speedboat journey.

10,097 miles as the crow flies, with a 13-hour time

Who goes? Family and friends who want to relax

difference. It takes about 25 to 30 hours to get to

and have fun, rather than luxuriate in five-star style.

Nadi via Los Angeles, Seoul or Hong Kong. From

Guests from Princess Diana and Kate Moss to

Nadi, flights on Laucala’s King Air B200 take 50

Eddie Murphy come here for privacy or to party.

minutes and cost $600 per person each way.

Contact enquiries@virginlimitededition.com;

Who goes? Honeymooners, friends and families

neckerisland.virgin.com

who appreciate slick service, varied activities, elegant villas and fine food. There is a chapel, too;

How to get there

last year, Elle Macpherson got married there.

Virgin Atlantic (0844 874 7747; virgin-atlantic.

Contact 00679 888 0077; laucala.com

com) flies to Antigua twice a week from London Gatwick, with Upper Class seats from £2,480

How to get there

return. The Gatwick Clubhouse is not as

Cathay Pacific (020 8834 8888; cathaypacific.com)

impressive as the one at Heathrow but is airy

flies to Nadi in Fiji, via Hong Kong, from £3,829 return. En route, business-class passengers can use The Wing lounge at Hong Kong International Airport, designed by Foster+Partners. Interiors of black marble and light eucalyptus are furnished

and filled with natural light and materials. There Liquid assets Clockwise from top: one of the many pools on Laucala; the Penthouse suite in Necker’s new Great House; and Dietrich Mateschitz, the owner of Laucala

with leather armchairs and high-backed “pods”

are chargers for phones, a shoe-shine service, an oak-and-granite bar, a Wii and Guitar Hero area for children, and a Dr Hauschka spa for those in need of a last-minute massage, manicure or pedicure (tip: book on arrival at

for privacy. The lounge has a coffee bar, a noodle

the lounge, as it is popular). Tables are served

bar where fresh Eastern food is cooked to order,

by waiters offering such treats as eggs benedict

a library, and luxurious dark-stone shower cubicles

and bloody marys made to order.

stocked with white towels and Jurlique products. Inflight Cathay Pacific’s new business-class suite is equipped with a 6ft 6in fully-flat bed with duvet, spacious storage cupboards, a useful triangular side table, and an easy-to-use control panel with a multi-port connector, so passengers can watch their own films on the screen and charge electronic devices. The wide seats are lined up in a 1-2-1 configuration, and all of them face forwards. Food, together with a good selection of fine wines, is served on a starched white cloth with real cutlery and crockery, and the menu offers both Western and Eastern choices.

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THE VERDICT Although both are among the top five private islands in the world, Necker and Laucala couldn’t be more different in style. Necker feels like a casual beach home – albeit one with handsome staff, flamingoes and lemurs – whereas Laucala is run more like a tropical five-star retreat, with a manicured golf course, a spa with nine therapists, and sensational food. Laucala’s advantages are that, regardless of when you travel, you don’t have to take it over in its entirety, and its villas are extremely secluded. Necker has to be rented as a whole, other than for six weeks of the year, and is more a laid-back house-party island, with bars at every turn and a zip-wire to get you back to your room. Elle Macpherson got married at Laucala; Kate Moss chose Necker for her 40th birthday. They are both sensational spots, but for very different people.

Inflight The Virgin Upper Class cabin has seats 6ft 5in long, arranged in a herringbone pattern, facing inwards and flipped at night to create a fully flat bed with sheet, duvet, pillow – and pyjamas. Movies are first-class, with new releases as well as classics. Meals are served on a white cloth with real cutlery and crockery; ice cream and champagne are available throughout the flight; and cocktails are served at the six-seater bar (a bonus if you want to stretch your legs, but not great if you have a seat nearby and the party is getting noisy). Staff are friendly, on first-name terms within minutes, and happy to make beds and soothe nerves in storms.

T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E D

FACE TO FACE WITH CANADA

Canada is the world’s second largest country and renowned for its spectacular landscapes; from the breathtaking mountain panoramas of the Canadian Rockies to the ice-covered wilderness around Churchill on the Hudson Bay, and the vineyards, farmland and maple forests of Canada’s east. The country is also home to abundant wildlife, cosmopolitan cities and diverse cultures from the historic French settlements in Québec to indigenous communities scattered throughout the country. • Private Tailor-Made Travel & City Breaks • Highest Quality Services • Unrivalled Experience • Exceptional Value • Expert Planning • Personal Service

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(Clockwise from top left) A personal welcome aboard our Private Jet; the iconic city of Sydney; Chichen Itza in Mexico; Moai statues on Easter Island; the Taj Mahal seen from our hotel; Delhi; idyllic Tahiti; the vibrant city of Rio de Janeiro; wildlife on the Serengeti plains; the Angkor Wat temple complex in Cambodia, and the majestic Iguassu Falls in Brazil.

T H E M O S T E XC LU S I V E TO U R O N E A RT H. A JOURNEY AROUND IT BY PRIVATE JET. Ever since the discovery that the world was round, travellers have dreamed of circumnavigating it. Now, Captain’s Choice offer you the chance to make this once-in-a-lifetime journey in the comfort and luxury of our private jet. Freed from the constraints of scheduled transport, this 21 day itinerary lets you explore the world’s most iconic and exotic places in a style which would simply not be possible otherwise. You will travel aboard our spacious jet, stay at the finest hotels and enjoy gourmet dining, with your every need taken care of by an experienced escort team which even includes a tour doctor. Taking off from the exclusive Harrods terminal at Luton, you will head west across the Atlantic to Merida, in Mexico, gateway to the ancient Mayan city of Chichen Itza. Its astonishing thousand year old ruins are one of the finest examples of the mysterious Mayan culture. Our second stop is the vibrant city of Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, alive with the rhythms of the Samba, for a three night stay at the five-star Copacabana Palace hotel. Then it’s a short flight to one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls, Iguassu Falls, on the border with Argentina. Heading out over the Pacific, you’ll touch down on remote Easter Island, dotted with its almost 800 mysterious Moai statues. A two night stay at the Harangaroa Eco Village will give you ample time to fall under the spell of this most remote of destinations. Tahiti, the spectacularly beautiful island nation, is your next destination where you can soak up the sunshine before your flight across the

international dateline to Australia. Here, you’ll land in Sydney, often described as one of the world’s favourite cities. Climb the harbour bridge, or simply marvel at the iconic Opera House from your hotel window. After three nights at the luxurious Four Seasons hotel, you’ll head north aboard our private jet to Cambodia where you will visit the astonishing temple site of Angkor Wat. The world’s largest religious monument, it has been in continuous use since it was built in the early 12th century. Our next destination is Agra, in India. Here you will enjoy a two-night stay at the Oberoi Amarvilas with a view of one of the world’s most iconic buildings, the Taj Mahal, from your bedroom window. Built by the Shah Jahan as a symbol of love for his wife, it is truly one of the most breathtaking sights in the world. Then, it’s on to Delhi, India’s bustling capital for a stay at the luxurious Oberoi Gurgaon. The final leg of this incredible journey takes you to Tanzania, in Africa, for a stay in the Serengeti National Park. Two nights at the wonderful Four Seasons Safari Lodge will give you plenty of time to appreciate the beautiful scenery and spectacular wildlife. Finally, you will board your private jet for the last time for the flight back to London. You will arive home with memories of your trip that will last a lifetime. Captain’s Choice Circumnavigation of the Globe tour departs 5th March 2015, and prices start from £34,850 per person (twin-share). Begin your journey today by calling us for a copy of our brochure or by visiting captainschoice.co.uk

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BIG CAT SAFARI

Jawai Leopard Camp, Rajasthan It is dusk, and as the guide scans the trees with his spotlight, a cry goes out: “Look, there: a leopard. Oh my god, there are two, no three!” Sure enough, about 50ft away, lying on an enormous granite boulder among the trees, flicking its long black-tipped tail and looking straight at us, is a fully grown leopard and behind her two cubs. She is one of about 20 of the glossy, spotted creatures that live on this mountain, says our guide, Adam Bannister. “They live on goats, sheep – and village dogs,” he adds, “and what’s incredible is that the villagers love them. They seem to coexist extremely happily; the last time a man was killed was 154 years ago. Last week, a big female leopard was lying on the temple steps and the priest took no notice at all.” Although wildlife tourists come to India mainly to see tigers, that might change after the opening in January of Jawai – the country’s first luxurious leopard camp, owned by the Delhi hotelier Jaisal Singh. Occupying 20 acres of private land among the Aravalli Hills, between Jodphur and Udaipur, it is unlike any other place in India – set up like an African safari camp, but decorated with contemporary steel and leather furnishings. Morning and evening game drives are offered, and walks in the hills. Then there is a lake, inhabited by fat crocodiles and big flocks of flamingoes, along which visitors can hike; bicycles on which to cycle around fields where crops of wheat and mustard seed are grown; goats to herd in the company of heavily moustached Rabari tribesmen in red turbans; and, soon, horses to ride through a landscape almost devoid of villages but with lots of leopards. Best of all, because this is not a national park, game drives occur at night and dinners can be set up in the middle of nowhere, lit only by hurricane lamps and star-strewn desert skies. The accommodation Tents at the 16-bed Jawai camp are white canvas, with stainless-steel furnishings, bathrooms complete with rainshowers, and beds made up with fine cotton sheets and warming hot-water bottles. The food – comprising both traditional Rajasthani and Mediterranean dishes – is fresh and delicious, and served in such surprising places as the top of a rocky hill, after a dawn game drive. Doubles from £400 (sujanluxury.com). Getting there Greaves Travel (020 7487 9111; greavesindia.co.uk) is offering a nine-night tour to India from £2,880 per person. The price includes return flight with Virgin Atlantic, internal flights, private transfers and sightseeing, plus two nights in Mumbai, two nights at each of Raas Jodhpur and Devi Garh Palace in Udaipur (all with breakfast), and three nights’ full board at Jawai Leopard Camp. Lisa Grainger

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What’s new, pussycat? An Indian leopard, right. Top: Rabari tribesmen in the living-room tent at Jawai Leopard Camp, which opened early this year

Indian SPRING

Four new properties on the subcontinent offer fresh experiences, from seeing leopards in the wild and camping comfortably in Ladakh to hiking in the rainforest and detoxing in style. Ultratravel writers check them out

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Natural high Clockwise from below: Ladakh musicians; a view of Thiksey Monastery; a local folk dance; morning prayers; an interior at Chamba Camp; and perfect trekking country

Indian SPRING

GLAMPING

Chamba Camp, Ladakh

You open your tent flap on to a breathtaking sight – a high Buddhist

offers a spectacular new location, high-end facilities and an

monastery, encircled by the Himalayas. Chamba Camp, Thiksey, is

intriguing programme of activities, led by a personal guide.

the flagship product of a new company, the Ultimate Travelling

order to acclimatise to the altitude (the camp lies at about 11,000ft).

our main aims is to go to places where the infrastructure is

Then they might limber up with a stroll or bike ride through local

inadequate or non-existent,” explains Prem Devassy, the company’s

villages, go sightseeing in Leh, or try river rafting. Other options

senior general manager.

include watching a polo match, being driven up to the high pass

Ladakh fits the bill. A former Buddhist kingdom, now part of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir, this high-altitude desert has long had niche appeal for trekkers and those seeking spiritual

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During the first 24 hours, guests are encouraged to do nothing in

Camp, which is bringing “glamping” to remote parts of India. “One of

of Wari La (more than 17,000ft above sea level) and visiting a local oracle, or shaman. But the best way to absorb the essence of this gentle and

nourishment (the Dalai Lama has a house here). But, until now, the

thought-provoking land is to visit Thiksey Monastery for morning

choice of accommodation has been largely confined to backpacker

prayers. There, you can sit quietly and witness the spinning prayer

hotels in the capital, Leh. Chamba Camp – 15 miles (one hour’s

wheels and fluttering flags, the drums, chants and incense – and

travelling) out of town, on land belonging to Thiksey Monastery –

the tiny young monks with their mischievous smiles.

HIKING

Vivanta by Taj, Coorg

I‘m on a craggy ledge in the hills of Karnataka, and although it has been a tough four-hour hike to get up here, the views are extraordinary. At an altitude of just over 5,000ft, I can see all the way to the Arabian Sea coast and the jungles of Nagarhole. Coorg (also known as Kodagu) is one of the wildest mountainous regions in India, covered in dense forests inhabited by wild boar, elephant, sloth bears and tropical birds. But there is little sign of man. On my way up, I have walked through rainforest, climbed over stiles, hiked through paddy fields, pastures and plantations of coffee and cardamom into misty thickets of teak and rosewood. And I have passed just 10 people. The reasons for this are historical. Until the 19th century, the area was ruled by a clan of Kodagu rajas who deliberately kept the hill country devoid of roads, and relied on narrow jungle trails between settlements to discourage invasion. That, for a while, kept foreigners out. Even a few years ago, Coorg was little visited, and anyone adventurous enough to come here stayed in small traditional hotels, temple rooms or the private homes of the local Kodava people. There was very little on offer for travellers. That all changed last year with the opening of Vivanta by Taj in Madikeri, the region’s beautiful hill station capital. Now, visitors not only have a contemporary hotel in which to relax (it has glass walls to show off the spectacular views) but also a new range of activities to enjoy, based on the natural surroundings and the culture of the Kodava people (who have their own tribal dress and cuisine – and a fondness for extremely strong liquor). Easy day treks can be organised from Madikeri, including one to the impressive, domed Indo-Saracenic tombs of the rajas at Gaddige and the spectacular Abbi Falls. Other options for guests at the Taj property include overnight guided treks into the misty peaks, past streams and forest temples, and courses in zip-wire and high-rope skills. For the less adventurous traveller, there are botanical walks in the 180-acre forest and trips to villages to learn about pottery and other crafts. Not least of the attractions is a 30,000ft spa, for those who prefer to eschew adventure and just take up a supine position The accommodation The 28-acre site lies in the irrigated green

and be pummelled.

valley of the Indus River, facing Thiksey Monastery. The tents have

The accommodation Perched high on a forested ridge, the 63

a nostalgic feel, with folding furniture, travel trunks, leather and

villas are discreetly hidden in the rainforest canopy. Features include

polished brass – but the flushing lavatory and hot shower are

wraparound glass walls, huge marble tubs and warming fires. The

bang up to date. Meals, taken in the dining tent, include Western,

architecture takes inspiration from local houses, with entrances and

pan-Asian, regional Indian and Ladakhi dishes.

courtyards open to the sky and, at the spa, wood-fired Gudda baths

Getting there The Ultimate Travel Company (020 3051 8098;

(where guests are scrubbed and massaged). Dishes on offer range

theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk) is offering six nights (five at

from Coorg specialities and health food to international cuisine.

Chamba Camp, Thiksey, and one at the Imperial, Delhi) from £3,485

Doubles from £80, b&b (0091 827 266 5800; vivantabytaj.com).

per person. The price includes return flight, transfers, all meals, and

Getting there Greaves Travel (020 7487 9111; greavesindia.co.uk) is

sightseeing with a guide (alcoholic drinks and tips cost extra). The

offering six nights at Vivanta by Taj and one night at Taj West End

camp is scheduled to reopen on June 15. The Buddhist Kalachakra

Bangalore from £1,880 per person. The price includes breakfasts,

Festival is taking place near Chamba Camp from July 3-14.

return flight with British Airways, private transfers and guides.

Nigel Richardson

Chris Caldicott

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CHRIS CALDICOTT; GETTY

Perfect peace Clockwise from main picture: the rooftop pool at Vana; its organic restaurant; a vegetarian thali to suit your dosha, or energy type; and the soothing, light-filled lobby

SPA SERENITY

Vana, Malsi Estate, Uttarakhand

The northern state of Uttarakhand, in the Himalayan foothills, is where Hindus flock to worship on the banks of the Ganges, and where yoga fans – including the

such as Kum Nye, a Tibetan massage followed by a pounding with herbal poultices. Singh’s aim – to make Vana the best wellness centre in the world – might not be

Beatles – have traditionally come to practise their art. With these spiritual

a pipe dream. The food alone is worth a visit, comprising beautifully presented

connections, what better location for Vana, a wellness retreat that opened in

organic and calorie-controlled dishes, from oat risotto with morelles to chocolate

January and offers Ayurvedic and other treatments in a contemporary setting.

and banana pudding. Rooms are luxurious and the staff cheerful.

Veer Singh, Vana’s 30-year-old founder, explains the concept. “We wanted to

Given that it is only an hour’s flight from Delhi, followed by an interesting

create a combination of international ashram, forest retreat and wellness centre,

40-minute drive, Vana is a relaxing place at which to end a colour-filled trip

a place where people could eat great organic food, be treated by the best

to India and to reflect on life a little. It is also extremely slimming. Going

Ayurvedic therapists, and become well in mind, body and spirit,” he says.

home 6lb lighter after only three days isn’t a bad way to end a holiday.

Set on the gentle slopes of a lychee and mango plantation, Vana’s latte-coloured

The accommodation Vana, Malsi Estate, has 67 rooms and 13 suites (including

Modernist buildings house separate centres for Tibetan, Ayurvedic, spa and water

a penthouse with its own rooftop pool), plus three restaurants and 50 treatment

treatments. All of them are airy, wood-lined spaces hung with works by the Indian

rooms. Doubles cost from £470 per night, full-board, including three daily

artist Siraj Saxena. There are two slate-lined pools – one of them on a rooftop

treatments (vanaretreats.com).

with views of the Himalayas – a gym, three yoga areas, a well-stocked library

Getting there Greaves Travel (020 7487 9111; greavesindia.co.uk) is offering

and, soon, a tennis court and golf nets.

a seven-night itinerary from £2,400 per person. The price includes return flight

Because Vana is not a spa but a wellness centre with a five-night minimum

with Virgin Atlantic to Mumbai, internal flights, private transfers, two nights’

stay, Ayurvedic doctors plan and monitor each patient’s regime, whether it be

b&b in Delhi and five nights’ full board at Vana, with a consultation on arrival,

a strict Panchakarma detox or a yoga programme. Yoga classes are offered

daily yoga sessions and a 75-minute treatment each day.

morning and evening and are scheduled around body-invigorating treatments

Lisa Grainger

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Indian SPRING

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CHINA

(summer 2014)

• I N D O N E S I A • I TA LY • P U E R TO R I C O • S PA I N • V E N E Z U E L A

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SMALL SHIPS - BIG EXPERIENCES WITH NOBLE CALEDONIA

Island Hopping in the South Pacific An epic voyage from Tahiti to Fiji aboard the MS Caledonian Sky – 2nd December 2015 to 4th January 2016 Join us aboard the MS Caledonian Sky and celebrate Christmas and New Year in paradise as we island hop through Polynesia from Tahiti to Fiji. The name Polynesia means ‘many islands’ and no one could argue with the suitability of this title. Our comprehensive itinerary includes the Society Islands, Marquesas Islands, Cook Islands and Yasawa Islands. Isolated by miles of ocean over thousands of years, these the world’s first island cultures developed a pantheon of gods, myths and legends and this voyage will reveal the story of Polynesia and uncover its history and legends as we sail through the South Seas visiting the captivating islands. The sheer isolation of some of the islands has been their saving grace and apart from the influx of missionaries in the late 19th century, western culture has made few inroads. This mix of islands and cultures is a fascinating journey where we can discover the range of lifestyles, traditions, people and landscapes of some of the most remote islands on earth. From coral reefs teeming with life to powerful legends that shaped history, each island is unique, each culture distinct. The diversity of the islands will be brought to life by our onboard team who between them have many years experience operating in the region, Our voyage ends in the horseshoe of volcanic Fijian Islands and here we will be amongst the first people in the world to welcome in the New Year.

The Itinerary Day 1 - London to Tahiti, French Polynesia. Fly by scheduled flight via Los Angeles.

Day 2 - Tahiti, French Polynesia. Arrive this morning and transfer to our beach hotel for an overnight stay. Day 3 - Tahiti, French Polynesia. After breakfast in the hotel we will embark on a full day tour of Tahiti including the Gauguin museum.This afternoon transfer to the MS Caledonian Sky and sail tonight.

Day 4 - Mataiva, Tuamotu Islands. Mataiva means “nine eyes,” it was named for the nine narrow channels around the encircling reef that connects the lagoon to the sea. We will go ashore at Pahua. Enjoy a village walk then spend the morning on hikes learning about the native vegetation. Snorkelling at the pass reveals triggerfish, jacks, and goatfishes.

Day 5 - Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands. As one of the world’s largest coral atolls, Rangiroa, has a magnificent lagoon surrounded by small islets or motus, stretching as far as the eye can see. Today, a variety of activities await. There will be a chance to tour a black pearl farm. Alternatively return to the water and enjoy snorkelling or enjoy free time in the enchanting local village of Avatoru.

Day 6 - Takapoto, Tuamotu Islands. On the atoll of Takapoto we will be welcomed by the local population and treated to local fruits and

demonstrations. We will enjoy walks with our expedition team and see the local church and swim in the lake. For those who prefer the underwater world a snorkelling platform will be set up with our Zodiacs. Day 7 - At sea. Enjoy a day relaxing on the sun deck, join a lecture in the lounge or catch up on a book in the library.

Day 8 - Nuku Hiva & Ua Huka, Marquesas Islands. Arrive this morning in the Marquesas Islands, far removed from the rest of the South Pacific in everything from language and culture to geology. Our first call will be at Nuka Hiva, the largest of the islands and the island group’s economic capital. Traditional Marquesan dancers welcome us to their village and we will visit the archeaological centres and view the temples, petroglyphs and tiki. Over lunch we sail to Ua Huka and go ashore for a four-wheel drive tour to the Museum of Vaipee and the villages of Hane and Hokato.

Day 9 - Hiva Oa & Tahuata, Marquesas Islands. This morning will be dedicated to Gauguin, iconic artist of the South Pacific. We will visit his museum and make a pilgrimage to his final resting place in the cemetery perched high on a hill overlooking the town. We will soak up the landscape that inspired him to leave it all behind and go native. Over lunch we sail to the neighbouring island of Tahuata,

the smallest inhabited island of the Marquesas which is only accessible by sea and is off the usual tourist trails.

Day 10 - Fatu Hiva, Marquesas Islands. With a landscape of spectacular pinnacles towering over the cobalt Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva is one of the most floral and pristine islands. We will use Zodiacs to land at the little port of Hanavave where villagers will welcome us to the island. We then join our naturalists on a variety of walks to discover waterfalls, village life and flora and fauna of the island.

Day 11 - Napuka Island, Tuamotu Islands. After a morning at sea we arrive at the small Napuka atoll home to just 250 inhabitants. If the weather and sea conditions permit we will aim to land on the island and explore the beach with our naturalists or set up a snorkelling platform on the surrounding reef.

Day 12 - Raroia, Tuamotu Islands. After a morning at sea we arrive into Raroia known for its pearl farming and we will see the strings of oysters all around the local farms. After the traditional welcome to the island we will have the chance to explore on a variety of walks or snorkel the beautiful coral garden with Parrotfish, Angelfish and Butterfly fish.

Day 13 - Motutunga & Tahanea, Tuamotu Islands. Motutunga Atoll was first sighted by James Cook in 1773 who named it ‘Adventure’ after the name of his own ship. Both Motutunga and

Tahanea are uninhabited atolls and offer some of the finest snorkelling in the Tuamotu archipelago. At Tahanea there is another chance to snorkel or alternatively join our birders on a walk to find the endemic Tuamotu Sandpiper.

Day 14 - Fakarava, Tuamotu Islands. This protected atoll, along with its six neighbouring islands, make up a UNESCO classified nature reserve. The local villagers of Rotoava will welcome us and demonstrate their handicrafts and cultural traditions. We will have a chance to sample local delicacies before enjoying walks on the island.

Day 15 - Moorea, Society Islands. Moorea, the heart shaped island situated close to the main island of Tahiti is renowned as one of the most beautiful in the world. First settled over 1000 years ago by Polynesians it was James Cook who was the first European to land here in 1774. There will be the opportunity to snorkel or alternatively join an island tour.

Day 16 - Raiatea & Taha’a, Society Islands. Raiatea is recognized throughout Tahiti as its “Sacred Island” the cultural heart of all Tahiti Polynesia. This morning’s island tour will include a visit to the celebrated Mount Temehani and the Taputapuatea marae which dates back over 1000 years. This afternoon we move over to the neighbouring island of Taha’a which offers a glimpse of the traditional, tranquil life of the Tahitians.

Day 17 - Bora Bora, Society Islands. One of the most stunning islands on the planet, Bora Bora’s interior is crowned by majestic eroded volcanic formations and a distinctive black basaltic peak. A tour of the island will take you past colourful villages, archaeological sites and World War Two relics ending with a cocktail at the infamous Bloody Mary’s bar.

Day 18 - At sea. Day 19 - Atiu, Cook Islands. Our first stop in the Cook Islands is the small island of Atiu. With only 560 residents we will be guaranteed a special welcome. There will be the chance to join the local expert “birdman George” on a walking tour to search for Rarotonga monarch, chattering kingfisher, Cook islands fruit dove and Atiu swiftlets.

Day 20 - Raratonga, Cook Islands. Arrive this morning in Rarotonga, the hub of the Cook Islands where we have a day to explore. Either choose to join our nature walk in the Takitumu Conservation area, a 155 hectare forested area in the interior of the island. Alternatively explore the history and culture of the island on a drive including the sacred marae, site of the seven canoes and local churches.

Day 21 - Aitutaki, Cook Islands. This lovely lagoon is famous for its fascinating coral formations and bountiful brightly hued tropical fish. Choose this morning from an island drive which will explore the sleepy

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village of Arutanga including a visit to the oldest church in the Cook Islands. Alternatively you may wish to join our naturalists and snorkel in the lagoon.

Day 22 - Palmerston, Cook Islands. The engaging history of the William Masters family comes alive as we meet the descendants of this eccentric 19th century Englishman who took three native brides. We will be welcomed by the local officials before enjoying a walking tour with our local guides. There will also be a chance to snorkel from the beach.

Day 23 - At sea. Day 24 - Niue, New Zealand. Spend Christmas Day on the island of Niue on the edge of the International Date Line. This morning stretch your legs and explore Alofi village with the onboard team or choose to join the locals at church. We will enjoy Christmas lunch onboard the ship and the active may want to take an afternoon swim or snorkel in the warm waters. Day 25 - At sea. We cross the International Date line (so it is now 27th December) and spend the day sailing to the Kingdom of Tonga.

Mutiny of the HMS Bounty which occurred between the islands of Lifuka and Tofua. You may choose to hike to a lake with our naturalists along a trail that leads through a spectacular forest full of birds, unique tree ferns and ironwood. Day 27 - Fulaga, Fiji. Our first call at a Fijian island will be on Fulaga, famous for its woodcarving and the making of large outrigger canoes. Over 100 tiny islands in the Fulaga Lagoon have been undercut into extraordinary mushroom shapes and the surrounding waters are tinged with striking colours by the dissolved limestone. Day 28 - Taveuni, Fiji. Today we visit the ‘Garden Island of Fiji’. We will have a choice of excursions this morning. The nature lovers can take a four-wheel drive to Dos Voeux Peak. Here we will see the tropical plants, palms and rainforest trees and where we hope to spot spectacular birdlife such as orange breasted doves, silktails, ferntails and parrots. Alternatively join a walking trip

to the Bouma Heritage Park established in 1990 to conserve the rainforests of Taveuni. In the afternoon we will head to one of the neighbouring islands for some fantastic snorkelling opportunities. Day 29 - Savusavu, Vanua Levu. Often referred to as Fiji’s hidden paradise, Savusavu is much the same as it was 30 years ago. It is a small bustling town with an interesting heritage and the surrounding landscape is stunning. We will enjoy a traditional Kava ceremony and learn about modern life in a Fijian village. Tonight we will be some of the first in the world to welcome in the new year with a celebration onboard. Day 30 - Levuka, Fiji. The island of Levuka and the town of Ovalau has a special place in Fijian history as it was here in 1874 that the Fiji islands were ceded to the British and also where in 1970 Fiji was declared independent again. The town is unlike any other Fijian town having retained the colonial buildings which made it the first Fijian site to be granted UNESCO status. Choose either to join a walking tour with our local guide or alternatively join an island drive passing local villages and beautiful bays and visiting the crater of Lovoni with views over the island. This afternoon we will relocate to Leleuvia where we can relax on the beach. Day 31 - Yasawa Islands, Fiji. Our final call will be at the fabulous Yasawa Group, a chain of 16 volcanic islands and many more smaller islands. The islands are everything you would expect of paradise. Tourism is still in its infancy here and using our small ship and Zodiacs we can access some of the remote islands in the chain.

Day 32 - Lautoka, Fiji to London. Disembark this morning and transfer to the airport for your scheduled flight to London via Los Angeles. We cross the date line during the flight. Day 33 - London. Arrive this morning.

Day 26 - Ha’apai Group, Tonga. Today we arrive at the Ha’apai group which consists of 62 islands comprising of lagoons, barrier reefs and active volcanoes. The islands have a rich maritime history with Abel Tasman being the first European to visit the islands in 1643 whilst Captain James Cook visited twice in the 1770s. However the most famous event was

Exploring the World by Small Ship For details of this cruise and of voyages around the world aboard a variety of Small Ships, please ask for our new brochure.

Prices & Inclusions Special offer prices per person based on double occupancy range from £14895 for a standard forward suite to £17295 for an Owner’s Balcony Suite. Suites for sole use from £20795. Price Includes: Economy class scheduled air travel, overnight accommodation in Tahiti on a bed and breakfast basis, 29 nights aboard the MS Caledonian Sky on a full board basis including wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner onboard, shore excursions, expedition team, transfers, port taxes, gratuities to crew and whilst on excursions. NB. Ports and itinerary subject to change based on weather conditions and flight schedules. Travel insurance and visas are not included in the price. All special offers are subject to availability. Our current booking conditions apply to reservations.

Alternatively view or request online at www.noble-caledonia.co.uk

MS Caledonian Sky The MS Caledonian Sky is one of the finest small ships in the world. She accommodates a maximum of 114 passengers in 57 spacious outside suites. All suites have outside views and many have private balconies, walk-in wardrobes and some feature tub baths. The spacious and finely decorated public rooms include a large lounge and an elegant bar where a pianist plays periodically throughout the day. The travel library is the perfect place to relax with a book as is the Club Lounge on the Panorama Deck. Outside there is a rear Lido deck where meals are served in warm weather under shade and on the top deck there is a further observation and sun deck with bar service. There is also a small gymnasium and hairdressers onboard. With only one sitting and a maximum of just over 100 passengers, the cuisine will be of a consistent superior quality. The atmosphere onboard is warm and convivial and more akin to a private yacht or country hotel in which you can learn more about the wonders of nature and the culture of places you are visiting in the company of like-minded people.

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Of the world’s top 100 women golfers, more than 40 come from South Korea. Theirs is a game that has gripped the nation and inspired a generation. To ďŹ nd out why, Michelle Jana Chan packs her clubs to get tips from local experts

I

t was early in the morning, long before sunrise, when my taxi pulled out of Incheon International Airport and began the hour-long journey to my hotel in downtown Seoul. Beyond the airport’s boundary, it was surprisingly dark until we passed a blinding bank of oodlights by the roadside. I asked the driver if it was a football pitch. “Night golf,â€? he replied. It didn’t take me long to realise that South Koreans are fanatical about the game. “To get ahead in Korea, you have to play golf,â€? one businessman told me. “It’s seen as a prestigious sport, and the better you are, the farther you can go in your career. To reach any kind of managerial position, you must ďŹ rst have a good golf handicap.â€? This obsession has given rise to some of the world’s ďŹ nest golfers, especially in the women’s game – and they start young. In January last year, Lydia Ko (playing for New Zealand but born in Seoul and of Korean heritage) won a professional tournament at the age of 14, the youngest female golfer to do so. “Golf has become so popular that all parents want their daughters to play,â€? said Na Yeon Choi, winner of the 2012 US Women’s Open. “There are lots of female rising stars and the competition is tough.â€? South Koreans have won ďŹ ve of the past six Women’s US Opens and dominate the leaderboard on the Ladies Professional Golf Association (LPGA) Tour, with four women in the world’s top 10. The trend began in 1998 when Se Ri Pak won the Women’s US Open. World number one Inbee Park, who became the ďŹ rst South Korean to be named LPGA player of the year in 2013, believes traditional family values have bolstered the game. “It’s the support of parents,â€? she said, “as well as the fact that golfers practise a lot. Youngsters are getting inspired by older players and dream of becoming professional. We have huge potential.â€? I tested my own potential one afternoon at the Troon Golf Academy in Seoul, one of two in the South Korean capital (there are others in China, the US, Dubai and, of course, Scotland). This one is at the Banyan Tree Club

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& Spa hotel, where I hit a bucket of balls at the driving range. It was extraordinary to ďŹ nd such expansive facilities at a downtown hotel in a city as congested as Seoul. Kylie Oh, a professional instructor at the academy, gave me her views on the success of the women’s game. “Parental inuence is critical,â€? she agreed, “but another factor is physical build; there is not much difference between South Korean and American women. In the men’s game, the Americans are much bigger, so it is harder for our men to compete.â€? South Korean males have long trailed behind their female counterparts. Some say the country’s compulsory two-year stint of military service pulls men from the game during what would be the formative years of their golďŹ ng career. Others say there is more pressure on men to ďŹ nd white-collar work. There are, of course, notable exceptions such as KJ Choi, the ďŹ rst South Korean player on the PGA Tour. And, in 2009, YE Yang beat Tiger Woods at the PGA Championship to become the ďŹ rst Asian golfer to win a men’s major. In spite of all the homegrown talent, South Korea is not the most obvious golďŹ ng destination. It has fewer than half the number of golf courses in the state of Florida alone. The terrain is mountainous, with dozens of protected parks, making the construction of golf courses difďŹ cult. It can sometimes be easier to undertake the expensive business of reclaiming land from the sea. One sunny morning, I played a round at the Jack Nicklaus Golf Club Korea in New Songdo City, a massive urban development built on reclaimed land on the outskirts of Seoul. My partner was 25-year-old Joo-Yeob Baek, who plays on the Korean tour. During our pre-game lunch, I nervously explained how long it had been since I’d last swung a club. At the ďŹ rst tee, I pulled out a hefty driver from my rented set of clubs. By some uke, the ball sailed down

SKM ARCHITECTS; GETTY

Temple to the game The clubhouse, left, at Haesley Nine Bridges in Yeoju, about 45 minutes’ drive from Seoul. Se Ri Pak (top) and Na Yeon Choi (below) are two of South Korea’s leading female golfers. Above: night golf at Seoul’s Sky 72, site of the largest driving range in the world

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the fairway. I groaned. Now, things could only get worse – and they did. Baek was ferociously consistent – and extraordinarily patient with my unpredictable game. He kindly pretended not to have seen when I topped a ball, and his conversation was charming. “There’s a great golf culture here,” he enthused, when I asked him what made South Korea such a compelling destination. “We have excellent caddies, delicious, healthy food in the clubhouses, and next-generation technology on the courses.” With a remote control, he manoeuvred our self-driving buggy towards us – and my jaw dropped in amazement. He was equally astounded when I told him that I usually carry my own clubs, or use a trolley. For a golf break, he recommended Jeju Island off the southern tip of the Korean peninsula. With year-round warm weather, it offers perennial golfing opportunities even when there is snow in the north. It also has one of the top 100 golf courses in the world: Nine Bridges (see box, right). Kim Ha-Neul, of the Korean Ladies Professional Golf Association (KLPGA), suggested an alternative area around Busan, the country’s biggest port. “There are some great golf courses, and it’s cheaper than Jeju,” she said. Like Jeju, though, it has mild weather – and sensational seafood. The cuisine is repeatedly cited in golf circles as a reason for visiting South Korea, along with high levels of service. “If visitors want a VIP experience,” said Na Yeon Choi, “they should come here.” Golf may be an elite sport in Korea, as it is in many parts of the world, but there are ways of playing it on a tighter budget. For example, many South Koreans spend their weekends at downtown driving ranges, and there are

Sea view The Ocean Course at Sky 72 Golf Club, Seoul, designed by Steve Nicklaus

WITH A REMOTE CONTROL, HE STEERED OUR SELF-DRIVING BUGGY TOWARDS US more than 4,000 facilities in the country offering screen golf in 3D. Peter Claughton, the former director of instruction at Troon Golf Academy at the Banyan Tree, said playing screen golf is a typical way to spend a Friday night in Seoul. “For just 25,000 won [about £15], you can go out with friends, order noodles and a beer, and play a virtual round at any course around the world,” he says. Perhaps the most convenient golf option for travellers is Sky 72 Golf Club, within striking distance of Seoul’s international airport. It might be too tight to fit in a round between check-in and take-off, but you could hit some balls at the on-site Dream Golf Range, SOUTH KOREA claimed to be the largest driving range in IN NUMBERS the world. Alternatively, just 45 minutes 0.7 Percentage of the world’s outside Seoul is the futuristic Haesley population living in the country Nine Bridges, with its Frank Lloyd 4 Female golfers in world’s top 10 Wright-style clubhouse and a course 41 Female golfers in top 100 with a Sub-Air system that allows 4,000 3D screen golf facilities oxygen to be piped straight to its grass 14 Age of Lydia Ko when roots. Almost as striking is the she won her first professional clubhouse at the Ananti Club, whose tournament 27-hole course is on an estate of nearly 500 acres just half an hour’s drive from Seoul. With facilities like this, South Korea looks set to continue its success on the international circuit – and to become a serious contender as a golf destination. Both developments will be fascinating to watch, not least next year, when the Presidents Cup comes to South Korea, the tournament’s first foray into Asia.

FIVE OF THE BEST COURSES IN SOUTH KOREA Nine Bridges Located on

advanced golf practice and

giant Samsung Group, with the

the volcanic island of Jeju

learning centre (0082 32 851 7680;

aim of reaching out to ordinary

(sometimes likened to Maui in

jacknicklausgolfclubkorea.com).

players rather than hosting professional tournaments. On

Hawaii), this is one of the country’s finest courses, with

Pine Beach One of the country’s

the club’s website, Byung-Chull

a dramatic location in the

newer courses, Pine Beach

(who died in 1987) is quoted as

shadow of Mt Hallasan, the

has been referred to as Asia’s

saying: “There is more to it

country’s highest mountain. The

Pebble Beach (the renowned

than achieving a sense of

landscape is a mix of pine forest

championship course in

enlightenment – golf symbolises

and rolling hills, with smooth,

California) because of its

the fact that there is no end to

bentgrass fairways. The

dramatic terrain and rocky cliffs

striving toward a goal.” (0082 31

clubhouse is known for its fine

and headlands. Positioned on the

460 3310; tinyurl.com/a4z7yul).

dining and its spacious spa which

west coast of the peninsula in

offers high-tech “footcare”

Haenam, near Gwangju, it has 10

Sky 72 Golf Club This

treatments (0082 64 793

holes on cliff tops and headlands

golf centre near Incheon

9999; ninebridges.co.kr).

extending out into the sea. The

International Airport, Seoul, has

430-yard 16th is a dogleg par-four

four 18-hole courses, the most

Jack Nicklaus Golf Club Korea

with the Yellow Sea along the

challenging of which is the

One of the focal points of New

right side of the fairway; the par-

Ocean Course (above) designed

Songdo City’s green-space

three 15th also plays across open

by Steve Nicklaus. The relatively

programme, this 18-hole PGA

water (0082 61 530 7700;

long par-threes and par-fours

championship course (below) has

pinebeachcc.co.kr).

can be particularly challenging. The site also has the Dream Golf

been designed by the awardwinning consultancy Nicklaus

Anyang Benest Golf Club

Range, one of the world’s

Design. There are multiple tees

Founded in the late Sixties, this

largest, with 300 automatic

and strategies for handling the

course is considered to be the

tee-up bays. Night golf is

7,300-yard course, built for

home of South Korean golf. It

possible at the Lake Course

players of all abilities. The

was set up by Lee Byung-Chull,

from April to November

clubhouse has a technologically

the founder of the electronics

(0082 1544 7002; sky72.com).

Cox & Kings (0845 154 8941; coxandkings.co.uk) offers a four-night stay at the Conrad Seoul from £1,975, including accommodation, return flight with British Airways, transfers and a full-day private city tour. The hotel has driving ranges and a screen-golf facility. Cox & Kings can also arrange for guests to play at local courses. More information from Korea Tourism (020 7321 2535; visitkorea.or.kr).

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ometimes golf just isn’t

4 CRYSTAL CRUISE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC

enough. On a boys’ weekend, you might be happy

One of Crystal’s flagship cruises for 2014 lets

cramming in 36 holes a day and collapsing in the bar

passengers play golf en-route. The 14-night cruise

afterwards. But where should you go for a more varied

departs Southampton on September 5 and calls at

holiday, the kind that might tempt a non-golfing

Guernsey, Dublin, Belfast, Reykjavik, Halifax (Nova

partner? We have selected 10 of the world’s best

Scotia) and Bar Harbor (Maine) before arriving in

resorts and golf holidays that pair top-quality links

Boston (Massachusetts). Golf is offered at a selection

with outstanding experiences, from great food and

of top courses including The Kildare Hotel, Spa

fine wine to glorious beaches and indulgent spas.

& Country Club in Dublin, Royal Belfast Golf Club, Granite Springs Golf Club in Halifax and Kebo Valley

GOLF + WINE

Golf Club in Maine. PGA pro John Clark will be on

1 A CHATEAU IN BORDEAUX

board to offer tips and advice.

Drinking and driving is not usually acceptable, but

From £3,714 per person return, including flight from

when the wine is exquisite, you may not mind if your

Boston back to Britain, all meals, most drinks and port

tee shots become a little erratic. So, get a few friends

taxes; green fees are extra (crystalcruises.co.uk).

together and book four nights as guests in a private château in Pauillac (full details available only on

GOLF + BEACH

application) with a few rounds at the Golf du Médoc

5 CANOUAN ISLAND, THE GRENADINES

course. The deal includes six gourmet meals, tastings

One to watch for next winter is Canouan, in the

at Margaux, Château Lafite, Château Latour, Château

Grenadines archipelago. The brilliant green, S-shaped

Mouton Rothschild, Château Haut-Brion and Château

island has an idyllic setting, with immaculate beaches

d’Yquem, and as many rounds of golf as you want.

and an 18-hole course, designed by Jim Fazio, which

From £3,695 per person based on 8-10 people in twin/

makes for some spectacular ocean views. The resort,

double rooms with Arblaster & Clarke (winetours.co.uk).

renamed the Pink Sands Club, has just been rebuilt, with a few tweaks to the course as well, including

2 L’ALBERETA, ITALY

a re-ordering of the holes and a new clubhouse.

This villa hotel, near Lake Iseo in northern Italy, lies in

Carrier (carrier.co.uk) is registering enquiries about

the Franciacorta wine region, which produces a

bookings and will keep customers informed of the

sparkling white that can stand alongside some of the

hotel’s reopening date.

best champagne. The villa has its own wine house – Bellavista – and the adjacent Franciacorta golf course

6 FOUR SEASONS, PUNTA MITA, MEXICO

is known as the “wine” course because of its proximity

Few beach resorts have quite such a stunning location

to the vineyards. There are some excellent alternative

as Punta Mita, on the edge of an anvil-shaped

courses nearby, too – Golf Club Bergamo L’Albenza in

promontory on the west coast of Mexico. The Pacific

Almenno San Bartolomeo is the home course of the

Ocean laps a succession of rock-framed white-sand

Italian golfer Costantino Rocca.

beaches that almost entirely surround the headland,

Three nights b&b in a double room, with one round at

and nearly all the villas and guest rooms are by the

the Franciacorta Golf Club, one round at L’Albenza and

sand or have sea views. Golfers will like the two

a massage in the spa, costs from €750 (about £620)

courses designed by Jack Nicklaus – and especially

per person, based on two adults sharing (albereta.it).

the famous Hole 3B, “the Tail of the Whale”, which forms golf’s only natural island green.

GOLF + TRAVEL

The hotel offers accommodation for two, breakfast

3 THE ROYAL SCOTSMAN, THE HIGHLANDS

and unlimited golf from around £731 per night for the

To mark the Ryder Cup challenge in September this

Garden View Casita, or £1,021 per night for the Ocean

year, Orient-Express is introducing a golfing tour on

View Casita. The nearest international airport is Puerta

board the Royal Scotsman luxury train. Departing

Vallarta (fourseasons.com/puntamita).

Edinburgh on May 18 and again on September 22, passengers can tee off at three of north-east

GOLF + GASTRONOMY

Scotland’s best courses: Royal Dornoch, Castle Stuart,

7 FINCA CORTESIN, COSTA DEL SOL, SPAIN

and the excellent Cruden Bay. Non-golfing partners

Finca Cortesin’s golfing credentials are not in doubt.

can visit attractions such as Ballindalloch castle,

The course, near Marbella, hosted the Volvo World

whisky distilleries and Pitmedden Garden.

Match Play in 2009, 2011 and 2012 and is among the

The five-day tour includes entertainment and seasonal

top three or four on the Costa del Sol. Less well known

cuisine. From £5,350 per person full-board, based on

is the sophisticated hotel that goes with it and its

two sharing a twin cabin and including green fees and

impressive line-up of restaurants – including El Jardín,

excursions (royalscotsman.com).

which serves Spanish specialities in an outdoor

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PERFECTPAR Nick Trend picks 10 holidays that combine first-class golf

GOLF

SPECIAL 2014

setting. Chef Lutz Bösing also oversees the beach club’s spankingly fresh fish and Kabuki Raw, with its theatrical presentation of fine Japanese seafood. The Championship Golf Package costs €2,750 (about £2,280) per person, based on two sharing, and includes four nights’ b&b in a junior suite plus two green fees at each of Valderrama, San Roque Old and Finca Cortesin (fincacortesin.com). 8 GLENEAGLES, SCOTLAND Few golf resorts can boast a two-star Michelin chef, and fewer still one who has cooked for so long with such consistent excellence. Andrew Fairlie’s cuisine is precise, artfully presented and largely based on prime Scottish ingredients – lobster, roe deer and even wild strawberries from Gleneagles’ heaths. You might spot a few in the rough on the original King’s and Queen’s Courses, or even on the revamped PGA Centenary Course which will host the Ryder Cup in September. Other restaurants at Gleneagles include The Strathearn for fine dining and Deseo for Italian food. Various golf breaks are available; menus at the Andrew Fairlie restaurant start at £95 (gleneagles.com).

GOLF + SPA 9 VERDURA RESORT, SICILY, ITALY This resort, part of Rocco Forte Hotels, incorporates two championship-length golf courses, both laid out by Kyle Phillips. They have now had several years to

TNERS

bed down on the gently undulating estate, which skirts the southern shore of the island – and it is hard to think of a better golfing challenge in Italy. In the meantime, the 4,000sq m resort spa has launched a Vita Health programme of “life-enhancing” treatments including stress management and detoxification,

with other activities, from wine-tastings, spa treatments and water sports to fine dining

which runs alongside the traditional spa menu. Vita Health programmes cost from €1,200 (about

Guaranteed hit Golfers enjoy lunch at Deseo, top, at Gleneagles. From left: the Royal Scotsman; Finca Cortesin; Verdura Resort; Four Seasons, Punta Mita

£995) for three nights, deluxe doubles from €265 per room per night; golf costs extra (verduraresort.com). 10 BACHELOR GULCH, COLORADO, USA This Ritz-Carlton doubles as a winter ski resort (it has direct access to the slopes of Beaver Creek) and a summer mountain retreat with two first-class, 18-hole courses at the nearby Red Sky Golf Club. One was designed by Tom Fazio, the other by Greg Norman. There are 11 other courses to choose from in the Vail valley, but the resort offers plenty for non-golfers too, including an excellent spa which has just reopened after a comprehensive refurbishment. The signature treatments are given in rock-lined grottos featuring steam, sauna and hot and cold plunge areas. Summer rates start at $1,600 (about £980) for four nights, room only. Denver is the nearest major international airport (ritzcarlton.com).

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Italy’s best-loved region has a wild coastline, where Leonardo Ferragamo, of the Italian fashion dynasty, has built a sleek, modern marina – with hip places to stay. It’s all a long way from rustic farmhouses, says Lee Marshall

H

ow many people in Britain think of the sea when they hear the word Tuscany?” asks Leonardo Ferragamo, the fashion entrepreneurturned-hotelier who wants to change our perceptions of this much-visited summer destination. In a region that conjures up rural Chiantishire farmhouses, cypress-lined avenues leading to Renaissance villas, and rustic trattorias in walled hill towns, it is easy to forget that Tuscany has a coast at all. In some cases, this ignorance is bliss: the seaside sprawl around resort towns such as Viareggio and Marina di Pisa is no great advertisement for the Tuscan beach, unless renting a sunlounger on a square of sand where families are packed in like sardines is your idea of a good day out. But Tuscany’s 205 miles of mainland coastline also take in long stretches of sand dunes backed by pinewoods, and rocky promontories covered in fragrant macchia. Offshore is an archipelago of seven major islands, only one of which, Elba, is much known beyond the yachting fraternity (and even Elba has its hidden bays and beaches). Some stretches of coast are protected nature reserves. One of these, the Riserva Naturale delle Bandite di Scarlino, enfolds what must be one of the most spectacular beaches on the Tuscan mainland – Cala Violina, a long violin bow of fine white sand that can only be reached on foot, on horseback or by mountain bike. Just outside the northern gate of the reserve lies Leonardo Ferragamo’s big Tuscan seaside gamble: Marina di Scarlino, a strikingly contemporary yacht marina and leisure development. Providing 950 moorings for yachts up to 36m (118ft) long, this conch-shellshaped harbour – reminiscent, for those in imaginative mood, of the Piazza del Campo in Siena – also takes in 39 apartments, three restaurants, shops and galleries, a beach club, spa and boatyard. Let’s be honest: this is not postcard Tuscany. But it makes no attempt to be. There are no faux-Renaissance brick and terracotta palazzos and piazzas, of the kind you find in high-class Italianate shopping malls the world over. The design motifs here are clean horizontal lines in whiteplastered concrete and brushed steel, acres of decked terraces, and wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling windows. Marina di Scarlino is unashamedly contemporary – and as a result, the first impression is of a development that could be in Marbella or Miami. That impression is reinforced by the mild microclimate of the area around the resort of Golfo del Sole, which is Tuscany’s Florida or Costa del Sol: it is often seven or eight degrees warmer here than in Florence, and it’s not unusual to be able to enjoy an alfresco lunch in February. Many Italophiles will be horrified by the Marina’s modernity; others will find it all rather refreshing. After all, if you need it, that other Tuscany – the vine-draped,

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… but not as you know it

TUSCANY

Playground of the rich Clockwise from left: the island of Elba; Leonardo Ferragamo; Marina di Scarlino; Ferragamo’s 90ft yacht; Purobeach club

Let’s be honest: this is not postcard Tuscany. Marina di Scarlino is unashamedly contemporary

Fresh discoveries The island of Elba, top, has hidden bays and beaches. Left: the decked pool at the Purobeach club

hilltown-sprinkled version that always makes the covers of travel magazines – is right outside your door. Scarlino lies at the centre of the Maremma, the sparsely inhabited southern coastal swathe of Tuscany that is like Chianti on a grander scale, minus the tourist tweeness. This was once a wild area, infested by malaria, where cowboys known as butteri roamed in a landscape untouched for centuries. Some of that wildness lingers on in the wide open landscape and the gruff, direct local character. Dotted with Etruscan tombs, hot springs, thermal vents and pyrite deposits, the Maremma possesses an archaic, earthy energy and mystique. But it has also been for many years a chic second home for smart urban Italians and foreigners who are investing not only in jet-set seaside enclaves such as Monte Argentario and Roccamare (where Leonardo Ferragamo and Roger Moore both have holiday homes) but also in several of the pretty medieval villages that dot the hinterland. Wine has also given this southern part of the Tuscan coast an image upgrade: alongside the great aristocratic estates of Bolgheri, a 45-minute drive north of Scarlino, there are now some excellent producers closer to hand, among them the state-of-the-art Antinori estate, Le Mortelle, and Poggio Argentiera, an upcoming

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winery owned by Shropshire resident Gianpaolo Paglia. I meet Leonardo Ferragamo in one of the sumptuously frescoed reception rooms of Palazzo Spini Feroni, the 13th-century property associated with the Ferragamo family since the Thirties, when Leonardo’s father Salvatore bought it as his company headquarters. “If you draw a 100km circle around Marina di Scarlino,” he says, “you get a slice of the best that Tuscany can offer on land and at sea: Pisa, Lucca, Siena and Chianti, but also Monte Argentario, the vineyards of Bolgheri and the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago. It’s a great opportunity to get to know Tuscany while living by the sea”. For those who don’t want to buy one of the apartments, there are other ways to sample seaside living. The “hotel” side of Marina di Scarlino features 32 suites – the Puro Suites Toscana – run as a joint venture with a Spanish company which also operates the marina’s Ibiza-style Purobeach Oasis del Mar beach club with its pool, sea-view terrace, and Japanese fusion restaurant. The formula couldn’t be further from the pasta in hare sauce on offer in any number of trattorias a few miles inland, but Ferragamo’s gamble is that the marina’s international cuisine and aspirational lifestyle, combined with the reassurance of being in a safe, no-hassle enclave with a range of services and leisure activities, will look attractive not only to cultured yachties, but also to any time-strapped globetrotter who sees a big old Tuscan country villa as a logistical nightmare. arina di Scarlino is not Leonardo Ferragamo’s first venture into the hotel and leisure sector. In 1995, frustrated by the staid hotel scene in Florence, he contacted Michele Bonan, a young interior designer, and asked him to give a new look to a hotel on the Arno, overlooking the Ponte Vecchio, that was already owned by the Ferragamo family. “I didn’t want to do another stereotype design hotel,” Ferragamo says. “My aim was to create something that felt more like a home. Michele and I shared the same style, the same taste”. The result was the Hotel Lungarno – the first in a portfolio, called Lungarno Collection, that today includes four Florence hotels (the others being the Continentale, the Gallery Hotel Art, and the Lungarno Suites) and another in Rome – the Portrait Suites, just off the Via Condotti. All are designed by Bonan, in styles that vary from the Sixties retro of the Continentale to the Florentine elegance of the Gallery Hotel Art. The aim, says Ferragamo, is to “design not just the furniture, but the atmosphere… and to make it timeless, so that 20 years from now it won’t look out of date”. Lungarno Collection also includes the seven-bedroom Villa Le Rose, south of Florence, whose frescoed splendour can be yours for €40,000 (about £33,000) a week. Unlike Giorgio Armani, whose Armani Hotels group trades heavily on his brand, Ferragamo does not push the fashion button in his hotel, marina and yachting businesses: many of the guests who stay in the Continentale or Portrait Suites are not even aware of the connection. “I believe that if you engage in a new activity, it should stand on its own feet,” he says. That is what his mother had to do in 1960, when her husband Salvatore, the brand’s dynamic founder, died at the age of just 62, leaving her with six children between the ages of two and 18. Now in her nineties, la signora Wanda still comes into the office every day. “She does a lot more than just warm up a chair,” says Ferragamo, wryly. “You know when she’s there.”

M

The best of coastal Tuscany WHERE ELSE TO STAY

known as Il Vòtapentole. Massimiliano is

50 miles

L’Andana

a seafood wizard whose creations range

This super-elegant country-resort-by-thesea is co-owned by Alain Ducasse, so not

Viareggio Pisa

private chapel complete the package. Castiglione della Pescaia (0039 0564 944 800; andana.it; doubles from £270). Il Pellicano Perched just above its own private beach on the rocky promontory of Monte

o R. Arn

Tuscany

surprisingly, food and wine take centre stage. An ESPA spa, golf driving range and

Florence

Bolgheri

Golfo del Sole Elba

from party pieces such as shrimp parmigiana to the simplest steamed fish served with home-made mayonnaise. Castiglione della Pescaia (0039 0564 934 763; osteriadelmarecdp.it; average

Marina di Scarlino Cala Violina

Roccamare Corsica MEDITERRANEAN SEA Monte Argentario

£35 a head without wine). WHERE ELSE TO PLAY Parco Regionale della Maremma The Monti dell’Uccellina, an undulating

Argentario, this historic 50-room

WHERE ELSE TO EAT

Relais & Chateaux resort with a two-

La Pineta

fragrant macchia shrubland and dotted

Michelin-star restaurant does discreet

Built right by the water, La Pineta looks like

with medieval watchtowers, form the

seaside luxury like few others. Porto Ercole

a humble beach bar on the outside, but

backbone of this well-run regional park,

(0039 0564 858 111; pellicanohotel.com;

inside the elegant table settings and

which features some of Tuscany’s

doubles from £345).

shelves of stellar wines tell another tale:

wildest beaches. Alberese (0039 0564

Poggio ai Santi

this is, quite simply, Tuscany’s best seafood

407 098; parco-maremma.it).

It may be at the more affordable end of the

restaurant. Book well in advance,

Bolgheri

luxury spectrum, but it’s easy to see why

especially for dinner. Marina di Bibbona

The double line of cypresses leading up to

Amanresorts founder Adrian Zecha is a fan

(0039 0586 600016; no website; average

this pretty castellated village was famously

of this laid-back relais set in the hills just

£60 a head without wine).

lauded by the poet Giosuè Carducci, but

above the fishing port of San Vincenzo.

Osteria del Mare

today it is the grapes that most people

Tasteful country decor, good food and

In a quiet street of quietly chic Castiglione

come for. This is the heartland of Sassicaia,

a warm welcome are three persuasive

della Pescaia, chef Massimiliano Ciregia

a wine of legendary power (and price).

factors. San Vincenzo (0039 0565 798 032;

and his wife Monica preside over this tiny

Winery visits can be arranged via the

poggioaisanti.com; doubles from £125).

18-cover restaurant – which used to be

local consortium (lastradadelvino.com).

chain of low coastal hills covered in

Rural retreat L’Andana has breathtaking views of the island of Elba

SHUTTERSTOCK

Marina di Scarlino (0039 0566 867 001; marinadiscarlino. com) has a range of accommodation. The Puro Suites Toscano (0039 0566 866117; purosuites.com) start at €135 (£112) a night in low season. A three-night cruise on Ferragamo’s 90ft-yacht Solleone costs from €20,000 (£16,680). Chesterton Humberts (020 7201 2071; chesterton-international.com) manages sales of the Marina di Scarlino apartments. Prices start at £290,000 for a 75-year lease. Until sales complete, they can be rented for €190 (£160) a night or €1,050 (£880) a week for a one-bedroom sea-view suite in low season, rising to €320 (£270) a night or €1,800 (£1,510) a week in August.

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PICTURE CREDIT

WIN A LUXURY TRIP FOR TWO TO NEW YORK

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HOW TO ENTER /WIN?

Nominate your travel favourites, from hotels to airports, in our Ultratravel 100 Awards for the chance to win a four-night trip to New York THE PRIZE

THE VOTING CATEGORIES

A four-night stay for two at the new Viceroy New York hotel, with return Club World flights to New York with British Airways.

AIR TRAVEL

VICEROY NEW YORK

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Designed by the acclaimed consultancy Roman and Williams, Viceroy Group’s first branded hotel in Manhattan is a fusion of

Best long-haul first class

downtown allure and uptown sophistication. Situated on West

Best airline lounge

57th Street between 6th and 7th Avenues, at the crossroads

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where business, leisure, art and commerce meet, it is within easy walking distance of New York’s best-known restaurants, landmarks and shopping areas. The hotel has 240 luxuriously

HOTELS

appointed rooms, many with views over Central Park. Viceroy

Best new hotel

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Club World provides premium levels of comfort in a spacious private suite that can be adapted for working or relaxing. Each seat has a memory-foam headrest and converts into a 6ft-long fully flat bed with quilted blanket. On the ground, Club World passengers enjoy use of lounges, a dedicated check-in desk and priority boarding.

HOW TO ENTER Nominate a winner in each of the 20 categories (right) and enter them, with your name, address, postcode, year of birth, telephone

I’ll take Manhattan The view from the rooftop of the Viceroy New York, top; a deluxe room at the hotel; its facade, left; and seats in British Airways Club World

Best in the Middle East Best in Africa and the Indian Ocean Best in the world Best luxury chain

OTHERS

number and email address at telegraph.co.uk/theultras by

Best luxury tour operator

Saturday March 22. On May 19, the winners will be announced at

Best small luxury cruise line

the Ultratravel 100 Awards and published in Ultratravel on May 31.

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Full terms and conditions can be found at the web address above.

Best river cruise line Best golf resort Best ski resort Best city Best country

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MORE QUALITY INCLUSIONS THAN ANY OTHER RESORTS ON THE PL ANET Check into a Sandals Resort and you will be treated to our Discovery Dining programme, where anytime dining in up to 15 restaurants per resort awaits you. We pride ourselves in our European and International cuisines using fresh and local ingredients, each of which comes with its own Head Chef that specialises in their area. Unlimited snacks, white glove service and exclusive Butler Service are also available. We even offer Private Candlelit Dinners^ on the beach or on your terrace if you prefer. These are just a few of the personal dining touches that come with your next Sandals holiday, the rest we call Luxury Included®.

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intelligence ULTRA

EDITED BY LISA GRAINGER

A LITTLE PLACE I KNOW

Fogo Island Inn, Newfoundland, Canada This lozenge of luxury on a tiny island on Canada’s Atlantic seaboard is the brainchild of Zita Cobb, a local woman who dared to realise a bold dream. On first view its size and rectilinearity seem at odds with the waves and rocks that surround it, but the inn, which opened last year, is deeply embedded in the traditions and fortunes of this old fishing community. Each of its rooms has an ocean view – which in May embraces colossal icebergs – and is stylishly furnished by local craftsmen, to designs by international artists who have in turn been inspired by the natural surroundings. The result is startling, both minimalist and homely, with colourful quilts and rugs and simple wooden furniture, while the wood-burning stoves in each room ensure guests remain snug in Newfoundland’s subarctic climate. Chef Murray McDonald’s innovative cuisine is based around plants and berries foraged from the island’s interior, plus “wild things from the North Atlantic”. The activities – sailing a wooden skiff, joining a story circle, hiking the coastline – are designed to plug guests into “a way of life rooted in the natural world”. This is the key to the Fogo Island experience. A decade ago the island was on its knees following the end of commercial cod fishing in the North Atlantic. Enter Cobb, the daughter of a Fogo Island fisherman, who returned from Silicon Valley with a multi-milliondollar fortune to breathe new life into her ailing home. The inn is the flagship of a wider initiative she describes as “entrepreneurial philanthropy” – every penny of profit is ploughed back into this community of 2,000 souls and their age-old traditions, steeped in the granite rocks, the inland ALEX FRADKIN; SHOREFAST FOUNDATION

lakes and, above all, the encircling ocean. Fogo Island Inn (001 709 658 3444; fogoislandinn.ca) has doubles from £305, full-board. The closest airports to Fogo are Gander, St John’s and Deer Lake. From there the island is served by fixedwing and helicopter charter flights; or take a ferry from Farewell. Glacial beauty The dining room, with views of the water. Right: Zita Cobb, the hotel’s creator

Nigel Richardson

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Bags of style In the air, little luxuries count. Lizzie Porter selects five of the best first-class kits

ETIHAD AIRWAYS – women’s. Made by artisans in the UAE, this bag features sadou – a traditional form of Abu Dhabi weaving. Inside, you will find Le Labo products – which

Horse guard The entrance to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection

contain French perfumes – plus mints, and an emery board. Standout products Le Labo Bergamote 22 moisturisers and lip balm Anything missing? Hairbrush/comb

DIRECTOR’S CUT The inside track on the world’s greatest galleries and museums PHILIP RYLANDS, director, Peggy Guggenheim

Abstraction and Surrealism. The United States is

Collection, Venice

represented with a room of paintings by Jackson Pollock.

What’s unique about the institution?

Your favourite artworks?

It’s difficult to think of any other 20th-century museum

Wassily Kandinsky’s Upward (1929) and Max Ernst’s Robing

created entirely by one woman. It is now the best place in

of the Bride (1940), although the public tends to favour

LUFTHANSA – women’s. Brands change seasonally, but the kit we tested recently came

Italy to see 20th-century European and American art.

Magritte’s magnificent Empire of Light (1953-54).

in a mini Rimowa suitcase in retro cream. Inside are an eye mask, La Mer moisturiser

Its greatest strengths?

Which work has the most interesting history?

and lip balm, earplugs, a comb/hairbrush, and a dental kit. Standout product The rigid

The quality of its art collections, the fact that it has both

Jean Metzinger’s At the Cycle-Race Track (1912) is a portrait

case itself, ideal for storing fragile items Anything missing? Facial cleanser

indoor galleries and outdoor sculpture gardens, and the

of the champion of the 1912 Paris-Roubaix cycle race. It

combination of a great permanent collection together

once belonged to the Irish-American collector John Quinn.

with exhibitions of modern and contemporary art.

The most controversial piece?

How should first-time visitors structure their visit?

Marino Marini’s equestrian sculpture The Angel of the City

Having orientated themselves in the sculpture garden, they

has been controversial ever since Peggy Guggenheim

can enter the main building overlooking the Grand Canal,

placed it looking out ecstatically on Venice’s Grand Canal.

turn left in the hallway and walk round the museum

Anything interesting about the building itself?

clockwise, taking a short break at the Grand Canal terrace.

Being low and white, it looks deceptively modern. But it is

Having crossed the garden, stopping at Peggy

actually an unfinished 18th-century palace.

Guggenheim’s grave, they should break for lunch in the

The best times to visit?

café, drop into a temporary exhibition, and end in the shop.

The museum is the third most-visited place in Venice, so it’s

Must-see rooms?

always busy. Quieter months are late November and

The permanent collections in the Grand Canal palace, which

December and, the best month of all, January. Weekdays

you can see in 40 minutes. Visitors with slightly more time

are less busy than weekends.

to spare should rent an audio guide and use it to cherry-

What else should visitors see? The Basilica dei Frari, for

pick the best of the collection.

masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Titian, Donatello,

Which parts of the world are represented?

Sansovino, Vittoria and Longhena.

Europe and America, through a mix of Cubism, Futurism,

Lara Prendergast

THE ULTRA CHOICE * CATHAY PACIFIC – women’s. This is an elegant Trussardi brown leather bag with a wraparound elastic fastening. It contains Aesop beauty products, cotton pads, a wooden hairbrush, and a dental kit complete with a mouthwash capsule. Standout product Aesop Parsley Seed Facial Toner Anything missing? Deodorant

TRAVEL BY NUMBERS

AROUND THE WORLD IN HANDICRAFTS Where can you go to find hand-made products from 42 different countries? Boticca, the online accessories and jewellery brand founded by Kiyan Foroughi, was born of his love of travel and is now a virtual shop window for work by 320 designers, in countries from Japan to Argentina. One example is this rose coral pearl ring, left, by the Italian-Israeli jeweller Arosha Luigi Taglia. Beside each item on the website is a biography of the designer and a form for making contact directly. The site has great accessories for men, too. boticca.com

100

Miles to the nearest road from Ultima Thule Lodge in Alaska (ultimathulelodge.com)

67

compartments. The first contains SK-II face products, toothbrush, toothpaste and an eye mask. The other contains a Gillette razor, shaving foam and deodorant. Standout product SK-II moisturising cleanser Anything missing? Lip balm

Stops on the Trans-Siberian Railway, from Moscow to Vladivostok

40,000

Average number of items loaded on to a Boeing 747, from meals and duty-free items to headsets

30

Hotels opening in New York this year LCKI8KI8M<C

QANTAS – men’s. This simple black rectangular wash bag has two zipped

AMERICAN AIRLINES – unisex. This Eames-designed bag looks like a natty tablet case. It holds Dermalogica face cream, multivitamin hand and nail treatment and a lip balm, along with the usual practical amenities. Standout product The bag, which serves post-flight as a standard-sized tablet case Anything missing? Hairbrush/comb

The only thing more amazing than the views, is the service. Exceed your expectations on a holiday with The Moorings; with more than 40 years of experience, rest assured you will enjoy the most extraordinary journey of a lifetime.

U N F O R G E T TA B L E M O M E N T S

on the water

Call our team now on 0845 508 5870 or visit moorings.co.uk/ultratravel

JULIAN SIMMONDS

D

avid Bailey, CBE, is Britain’s

best-known fashion photographer – a charmer who captured Swinging London in the Sixties and inspired Michelangelo Antonioni’s ďŹ lm Blowup. Now 76, he sculpts, paints and makes ďŹ lms, the latest featuring his fourth wife, Catherine. How often do you travel? Once a year, to somewhere I haven’t been before. This year it was to Nagaland [in north-east India], to photograph the last of the headhunters. It was exhausting: the tribes are miles apart, the roads are awful – and we didn’t ďŹ nd many skulls. The authorities have conďŹ scated most of them. What else struck you? The women. They are mostly taller than the men, and in charge. Women in most parts of the world are in charge, but there it is more obvious. Also, we didn’t see another European – perfect. Other favourite places in India? Delhi, where I’ve been about 20 times.

I met Salvador Dali at the St Regis in New York - but it’s too far away from the action now. I’d choose The Mercer

What about hotels? If there’s an Oberoi, I’ll stay there. In Mumbai, I check into the Taj [Mahal Palace]. I’ve also stayed at a place in Bangalore that’s like a Hollywood clichÊ of the Raj: all white, with four-poster beds and fans spinning on the ceiling. I can’t remember the name of that one, I’m afraid. Favourite places to stay elsewhere? In New York, I’d probably choose The Mercer. I used to stay Uptown – I met Salvador Dali in the

TRAVELLING LIFE David Bailey

The British photographer on girls, glamour, the best Indian hotels, the joy of Concorde and adventures in Nagaland

St Regis – but it’s too far away from the action

Why were you in Sudan?

Luxurious things you love?

Christie from Game of Thrones. She is very pretty,

now. There’s also a little place I know in St

I went there during the famine to photograph

I like art. I used to like cars such as Ferraris,

and so tall – about 6ft 3in – before she puts on

Germain, Paris – but I’m not going to tell you

people dying, which is awful. It was the toughest

because they are so beautiful, but now I just want

heels. My ex, Anjelica [Huston], would be good

where because every f---er will go and stay there.

trip I have ever done – we slept under trucks. (The

something that works. I have a Mitsubishi,

too. Or Jean Shrimpton or Kate Moss, because

What about in Britain?

Irish nurses were nice, though.) I went to

a Porche and a Mercedes E-Class CoupĂŠ.

they always look good in photographs.

My house on Dartmoor, which dates back to 1222.

Afghanistan, too, for the charity Help for Heroes,

Simple things you love?

Who would you avoid photographing again?

As a child I read Enid Blyton’s Famous Five books,

and the soldiers were great. The brieďŹ ng by the

Working – and waking up and seeing my wife’s

The Krays, I suppose – although the ďŹ rst wedding

and it reminds me of those. Or of Daphne du

Foreign OfďŹ ce beforehand was funny: they

still there! I’m not that fussed about food, and

I ever did was for Reg; he made me an offer

Maurier’s Rebecca, or of Hitchcock’s The Birds.

warned me that soldiers often used “strong

I haven’t drunk alcohol for about 40 years. When

I couldn’t refuse. I knew them all my life: Ray

Do you enjoy travelling?

language�. As if that would be a problem!

you walk into a studio at 6.30am and there are 80

slashed my father’s face when they were young‌

Not any more. I used to go to New York about 15

What do you make of Africa?

people looking at you, you can’t have a hangover.

Regrettable things you’ve tried abroad?

times a year, but it was easier then because I’d go

It’s all right. I’ve done great fashion shoots there,

Favourite souvenirs?

Firewalking, when I went to Fiji in the Sixties. I did

on Concorde and it only took about three hours.

and I spent three terriďŹ c months in Kenya

A tribal leader’s handbag from Nagaland, made

it once, then quickly changed my mind.

What’s the appeal of New York?

shooting Out of Africa. I don’t mind safari camps,

of rafďŹ a with three little monkey skulls on it.

Next big trip?

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, for a start. It

if they make life more comfortable – but I’m not

Do you travel light?

To Uganda, to meet tribesmen who play rocks like

has so much because it can afford so much. The

that interested in lions or elephants. Photographs

Yes, because I don’t care what I wear. I’ve usually

drums. Catherine Deneuve – who was my second

UfďŹ zi gallery in Florence is pretty good, too.

of Africa have become a clichÊ – apart from the

got a few cameras, a waistcoat with pockets and

wife, I think – went there to see the pygmies. So

Other favourite cities?

images of tribes taken by Leni Riefenstahl.

a couple of shirts. Although I spent most of my life

I might go and see them too. I won’t go to see

I like Edinburgh. It has such an atmosphere and,

Any other adventures?

working for fashion magazines, for me it wasn’t

the gorillas; I prefer to visit humans.

like Prague, an “ever-ness�. They are two cities

I once drove 8,500 miles in Australia, across the

about the clothes; it was the girls I liked.

Interview by Lisa Grainger

which just are – not because of their architecture,

outback, which I liked. I loved the nothingness,

Who would you most like to photograph

but because they have a wonderful feeling. I love

and the parrots, and the loneliness; sometimes I’d

on your travels?

David Bailey’s Stardust exhibition, sponsored

London, too, but it’s the most aggressive place in

drive for 12 hours and only see one petrol-pump

I could probably pick up the phone and ask any

by Hugo Boss, is at the National Portrait Gallery

the world – much more aggressive than Sudan.

attendant. The colours were pretty amazing, too.

of them. The most memorable recently was Gwen

(npg.org.uk) in London until June 1.

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