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Editor’s Welcome Pg.5
NOVEMBER
A Word From Our Editor Train your show dog to relax for grooming The Xoloitzcuintli The American Hairless Terrier Toxic Food For Dogs The Ceski Terrier
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Working and Hound Breeds
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WHO’S WHO AT BISD Publisher/Founder Kayla L. Kurucz Associate Publisher Richard F. Goldman Editor-in-Chief Leah Bertagnolli
Associate editors Laura Reeves, Elizabeth Turner-Brinkley, Deborah Davidson-Harpur Marlene Groves Art & Photography Director Megan Cloudman Sales Jess Pearson
Website Editor Ruben Alanakyan Creative Director Keith Flemming Social Media Maven Jen Smith Intern Karissa Groves B E ST
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Leah Bertagnolli
EDITOR
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from our Editor
Summer’s As the leaves begin to turn, I always find myself reflecting on the year, what
up to us to organize, raise funds, and lobby. Talk to your neighbors, talk to
has the year brought; what matters need highlighting? The Fancy has been
your electeds, invite others in the Fancy to help fight bad legislation. It has
challenged more and more by anti-dog/animal legislation, decline in entries,
never been easier than now to communicate with elected officials - social
and retail rescue. Each of these challenges represent opportunities to im-
media, email, phones, fax, stopping-by are all tools available to you.
prove the ecosystem we and our dogs live in. The only way to combat anti-dog/animal legislation requires vigilance from each of us, healthy network-
The cost of entries and total cost of producing or participating in showing
ing to build awareness of both good and bad bills, and action. Dog owners
dogs has escalated, even while gas prices are at an all-time low. Show costs
& breeders face regulatory burdens from municipal to State to National at a
continue to rise based on market pressures for space, rentals, producing
rate unheard of. More dogs are being seized on the thinnest of reasons; shel-
materials. In order to stay profitable shows have had to increase the cost of
ters & rescues are emboldened to seize dogs with little to no recourse for the
entries which has had the effect of less dogs entered. What’s the right an-
owners/breeders other than pursuing expensive, often cost prohibitive litiga-
swer? How do you balance the needs of shows needing to remain profitable
tion. It is in the ARistas’ interest to divide us, creating a false analogy of “re-
and exhibitors being able to afford participating, and bring multiple entries.
sponsible” v commercial breeder. It’s time to consistently fight back against
We’ve surveyed our audience for guidance on entry cost sensitivity and will
this divide and conquer strategy. We as small breeders will never be able to
report back on that as we continue to collect data. Suggestions have
produce enough dogs to satisfy the market’s need for quality pets. Commer-
included keeping entry costs below $30; additional entries discounted by
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cial breeders should be viewed as allies in battling legis-
$5 or more dollars; discounts for puppy classes; discounts for NOHS; deeper
lation if we’re to advance. We can no longer rely on the
discounts for Juniors. Have some ideas you’d like to share, drop me a note
actions of others, the AKC or NAIA for instance, to carry
leah@bestinshowdaily.com subject “survey feedback.”
the ball. Waiting for others will not stop the onslaught, it’s
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on the Wane Lastly, the problem of retail rescue continues to set-off alarm bells. More
effective policies, so that we can produce quality dogs, not be excluded from
and more dogs are being brought into the U.S. from such places as Puerto
the market to sell our puppies, ensure public health, and return our shows to
Rico, Mexico, Korea, Turkey, and Thailand. Each comes with a sob story for
fiscal health. My challenge to our readers, get active!
added emotional pull at the heartstrings “they’re wild Golden Retrievers roaming the streets of Istanbul,” “they’re feral starving, homeless dogs from Puerto Rico,” or a personal favorite “they’re meat pen dogs and if we don’t buy them all, they’ll be dinner.” Forget that wild Goldens don’t breed only to other goldens or even run in packs through Istanbul, forget that bringing in untreated dogs from Puerto Rico will not stop perpetuating dog colonies, forget that we’re creating a false market for dog farmers to continue to produce dogs for Americans funded with more do-gooder money than sense. The real issues are legislation allowing only for the sale of rescue dogs in multiple municipalities and public health, both human and dogs. Rescues are bypassing all USDA health import laws by declaring the dogs are rescue. And their lobbies are successfully removing us from the market. We must organize and speak with one voice if we’re to effectively fight back: identify allies, fund-raise, talk to everyone, attend public hearings and meetings. We have chance to restore and improve our ecosystem by lobbying for
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Training Your Show Dog 1
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One of the things we have to get our show dogs used to is being groomed. Of course, depending on the breed of dog grooming can be extremely labor intensive or very little work at all. Dogs that are heavily coated need to learn to accept being blow dried, brushed, combed, banded, clipped, nails trimmed, topknots done and so on. My goal is not only get a dog used to it, but I want the dog to really learn to relax and hopefully even enjoy it.
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recently acquired my first Lowchen and she surely will not be my last. Thankfully, she came from a really proactive breeder, Alexia Rodriguez, who worked on getting the puppies used to all sorts of things including gentle handling, clipper noises and vibrations and various environments. Even though Cannoli had been exposed to it, she wasn’t reliably trained to accept it and just lie there and I had to work on that. In this blog post I will go through some of the things I did to teach my now 7 month old puppy to relax and usually fall asleep for her grooming. All this was done using positive reinforcement and gentle methods.
First, start out by making the grooming area comfortable and inviting. If your dog is unsure about being on the table or being up high, get her used to that before grooming her up there. Just put her on the table, give her treats and take her down. Stay close and support her. If she is worried you can place the grooming table into a corner so that two sides of the table are up against a wall which can help the dog feel more secure and safe. Place a towel, blanket or dog bed and a pillow up there. Some dogs don’t want to lie down on a hard grooming table, but are more than happy to lie on their mat or pad. It doesn’t mean you will need it forever, but it is a good idea to use it in the initial stages of training. Cannoli’s pillow is fleece fabric rolled up and tied. Make the table comfortable with a towel or bed and a pillow.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED In addition to your grooming tools, you will need the following; • a towel, blanket, mat or bed to sit on the grooming table • a pillow for the dog’s head • a bag of high value treats • a grooming table and arm
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Next, put the dog on the table and just work on getting her to relax up there. Rather than trying to just push or roll the dog over, teach her to lie down by using food to lure her down. Lure the dog down with their chin on the pillow.
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Once down, give the treat and then periodically offer treats for staying down on the table. Also, pet and massage the dog on the table to help her relax. Delivering the treats in between the dogs front legs, or in front of the rear foot if they are rolled onto their hip will help to
to Relax for Grooming encourage them to stay down and to relax. Here I delivered a treat in between her front legs to reinforce staying down. If the dog is relatively comfortable with being on the table AND with being groomed, you can offer treats as you start to groom. Take your time and reinforce OFTEN for staying down. Practice this until the dog can really relax, even fall asleep on the table. The idea is to teach the dog to love being up there to immediately begin to melt and relax as soon as they get up on the table for grooming. Cannoli is an extremely active young puppy, but she can relax and 4 sleep while I groom her. If can be helpful to teach your dog to rest her chin in your hand. I use this for many things including the position for medical procedures like vaccines and exams. This is an extremely valuable tool as it allows you to position 5 the dog’s head without any resistance. Cannoli rests her chin on my hand while I comb her face and head. The chin rest on hand transitions nicely to her pillow. It can be helpful to have someone else available to help with offering treats in the beginning. I was able to just set a bag of treats beside me and offer them every so often. If you need the dog to be standing, consider using a soft food item, such as peanut butter or squeeze cheese on a grooming arm.
I did the exact same things for training her for her clipping, nail trims, bathing and blow drying. I offered food and started out with the water turned on low and some peanut butter smeared on the inside wall of the bath tub. I didn’t wash her head at first, just got it wet. Now, she actually falls asleep while being washed! Same with the blower, I don’t force her to stand up all rigid, I let her roll around on the towel at first and then just lie down and relax while I brush and blow dry her. I pet her and talked to her and offered treats while drying her. I feel that a lot of times we don’t think of something like grooming or gentle handling as things we need to train, but we do. If we want the dog to know what to expect and feel secure in being able to predict what is going to happen, we can make all these things easier and more enjoyable for them.
Cannoli can lick peanut butter off of the grooming arm while I work on her. If your dog doesn’t like the grooming itself, consider starting to work on the grooming in a very comfortable place like on your lap or on the couch, as she learns how to accept it. Keeps the sessions very short and give frequent breaks and again offer a lot of treats as she begins to accept it. If you are working with a very sensitive dog or there is already fear or anxiety associated with grooming, you may need to adjust the tools you use and use non invasive, soft tools. Some dogs do not like a slicker brush but may be fine with a wooden pin brush. Experiment with tools and start with ones that are comfortable for the dog. As the dog begins to understand the process, you can groom for longer periods of time and can offer less treats. In addition to treats, be sure to pet your dog calmly while grooming to build even more positive associations with the process. THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND • Practice daily with your dog so that she gets a lot of practice. • Be generous with your treats and reinforce good behavior often. • Try to groom gently and thoughtfully without rough handling and yanking on coat. It can be hard sometimes to avoid pulling on their skin, but it is important to work on this so that they can relax and not feel anxious that it will hurt. • If you are working on a sensitive area try to be gentle and offer treats in between very short sessions. This is how I got Cannoli so agreeable when having to comb little knots out of her face. Grooming can be a really positive and even bonding experience for your dog when you teach it and do it properly. I love brushing out my dogs and all of them will lie on their backs in my lap while I brush and comb them. If they tolerate it easily from the beginning, I reinforce it with food anyway in order to build an even stronger positive association. If they have any fears or reservations about it, I desensitize and counter condition them by doing short sessions that they can tolerate while pairing it with high value treats.
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The Xoloitzcuintli
Kay Lawson
The Xoloitzcuintli is a primitive dog breed, evidence of which has been confirmed from the relics of indigenous peoples of Mexico dating back over 3000 years. It is important to remember where these dogs originated, they were not developed through artificial selection. Every aspect of the breed developed as a response to its surroundings by natural selection; incredibly resulting in a perfectly balanced bodied animal, that is graceful, athletic, intelligent, and loyal, yet still retains the cunningness of the wild canid, of its past. Interestingly even though this breed was not molded by the hand of man to work, fetch, or comfort they excel at all of these things. We can only guess how the hairless mutation occurred creating a dog that could survive under harsh circumstances while lacking the protective covering of hair. The first of this anomaly obviously survived and thrived to reproduce the hairless trait on a broad scale; therefore, must have provided an adaptive advantage. It is widely accepted that the breed has a resistance to fleas and ticks and a higher tolerance for heat. This made them ideal for the unforgiving primitive Mexican landscape. The Xoloitzcuintli was utilized to guard villages, hunt with their keepers, travel with tradesman, used as trade, family companions, and as food when needed. The breed history shows that the indigenous peoples who discovered them did not bring these dogs into their village to “perfect” them, they accepted them as they were, so much so that they became an integral part of their religious deities and worshipped creatures. Over time, other breeds were more than likely introduced into the
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breed, as villagers would not have kept their animals contained. Some evidence of that is seen in todays color combinations in the coated variety In today’s world these traits make Xolo’s (as they are referred to) extraordinary good family pets for those who are willing to invest the time and effort. They are still thought of as a primitive breed so training and socialization is a must, while some may be shy with strangers they warm to family and friends quickly. They are incredibly smart and can be manipulative when allowed showing their true wild canid history. This breed adapts to their living environment and can do almost any task given them. A correct Xoloitzcuintli has a wedged shaped head with a muzzle appearing to be slightly longer than the skull, without a pronounced stop. Some cushioning on the muzzle will allow for a true wedge when seen from the front. The eyes should be almond shaped and set on obliquely. The ears should be large, elegant, and expressive without overpowering the entire face. When the ears are carried fully erect, they make the wrinkling on the forehead; hence giving the dog a intelligent, inquisitive look, that is associated with the breed. The bite should be scissored with correct alignment, even in dogs that are missing teeth, which is allowed in the hairless variety.
Xolos have a strong slightly arched neck, smoothly muscled and well-set into laid back shoulders bending into the body without any hint of a 90 degree angle. The back should be level and firm. There should be a slight muscular arch over the loin. The tail should be a continuation of the spine, long enough to reach the hock, and should not curl over the back.
competition. A Xolo of true breed type and conformation will show an efficient ground covering gate without interruption in its motion, it should look effortless with the ability to be on the move all day. The dog should have a confidence that belies their past, present a primitive beauty, grace, athleticism and exude intelligence. The correct proportions of length to height is 10 to 9 rectangular, but not This breed was recognized in the AKC in 1887, well before it was recogoverwhelmingly so. The legs should be long and straight from the side, nized in any registry in Mexico, known by the name “Mexican Hairless”. By set well under the body. Pasterns are flexible and strong, continuing in a 1959 the numbers of dogs being bred and registered in the US dwindled straight line to the foot. A modified hare foot with well arched toes, is ideal. and the breed was dropped from AKC registry. In 1986 the American Parent When viewed from the side the long sloping shoulders should be equal in Club was formed and kept track of breeding stock in America, until a suffilength to the upper arm in a correct dog. The rib cage should extend to the cient number of dogs were available for AKC foundation stock. The breed point of the elbow, be oval in shape with room for the heart and lungs, and achieved full recognition again in 2010 by the AKC. constitutes the greater portion of the dogs overall length. The rear quarters should be in balance with the four quarters, with angles matching. The croup should be well muscled and slightly rounded with the tail , effectively set on below the top line. Hocks should be short, sturdy and straight. A properly stacked dog or natural standing well-built dog should have a straight vertical line from the rear most point of the buttocks to the toe of the rear foot, and hocks perpendicular to the ground. The outer covering of the hairless dog is not skin, it is a true hide, as seen on all hairless wild animals. This hide is product of the select evolution of this breed to protect it from the harsh environment. The hide should not be thin and delicate in texture or matte in color. Puppies may have a wrinkled hide that looks a bit too big for them; a correct adult should have no excessive wrinkles. As a whole the breed is prone to acne during adolescence and should clear by adult hood. In the hairless dog the breed standard provides for hair on the head, feet, and last third of the tail or completely hairless. The coated variety should have a short, dense, smooth, close fitting coat. Coloring for the breed comes in a large selection from tan to black. There is no disqualification for color yet the standard does state that “dark solid colors are preferred” in both coated and hairless. Unfortunately, many judges take that part of the Standard to rule out the beautiful red color that is coveted in Mexico. This coloring is considered to be solid and should never be over looked. The breed comes in three sizes, the Toy 10 inches and up to including 14 inches in height. Miniature, over 14 inches and up including 18 inches in height. Standard, over 18 inches in height and including 23 inches in height. Dogs that are under 10 inches or over 24 are disqualified in conformation B E ST
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The American Hairless Terrier
The American Hairless Terrier is more commonly referred to as the ‘AHT’. This is truly an American breed, that originated in Louisiana as a natural mutation of the Rat Terrier. Historically, the AHT began in the early 1970’s when a hairless puppy was born into a litter of mid-size Rat Terriers. While not the first hairless puppy born to these parents, it was the first to be given to Edwin and Willie Scott and the Scott’s immediately fell in love with this naked female puppy and named her Josephine. Josephine became the progenitor of the American Hairless Terrier breed and all AHTs go back to her.
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It wasn’t very long before the AHT attracted the attention of Bonnie Turner (Flinthill) and Teri Murphy (WudNshu). Much of the
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development of the AHT you see today can be credited to the unwavering efforts and dedication of Bonnie, Teri and others who joined them along the way. Tragically we lost Bonnie when a tornado struck Aragon, Georgia. The loss of Bonnie was a terrible heartache to all who knew her and she is still very sorely missed. It was also a terrible blow to the breed as many of the breed’s foundation dogs also died in this horrible tragedy. However, the groundwork had already been laid and the AHT’s loyal devotees banded together to ensure that Bonnie’s dream for the breed moved forward. With a very heavy heart, we continued the long road toward seeing that the AHT gained full breed recognition.
In a nutshell, the AHT is a smoothly muscled, small to medium size companion who attracts attention and fans wherever they go. The breed is alert, curious, intelligent and easy to train.
And those dedicated to the AHT are not only in the United States but worldwide. AHTs have a growing population in Finland, the Czech Republic, Russia, Sweden, Norway, Estonia, Japan and even Australia, just to name a few. Our overseas counterparts have also been working hard to see the AHT gains full acceptance worldwide. The AHT’s steps toward gaining full recognition began with the UKC. It was not easy. The UKC first acknowledged the AHT as the hairless variety of the Rat Terrier. This was a start but not the most ideal situation. In 2004 the AHT finally gained full and separate breed status with UKC. Shortly thereafter, we formed an AKC club for the AHT, which was finalized in 2009 and the club was officially named the American Hairless Terrier Club of America (AHTCA). The AHT continued its move forward with the AHTCA petitioning the AKC on behalf of the breed. The AHT was accepted into AKC’s Foundation Stock Service (FSS) in October 2011 and the AHTCA registrar’s original submission to the AKC was over 1,200 AHT individual pedigrees. And hundreds more AHT records followed that original submission to the AKC. On January 1, 2014, the AKC moved the AHT into the Miscellaneous Class. Many AHTs entered the AKC Miscellaneous show-ring all around the country and quickly gained their AKC Certificate of Merit (CM) titles. On January 1, 2016, Bonnie’s dream finally came true with the AKC granting the American Hairless Terrier full breed recognition and moving them into the Terrier Group. According to AHTCA records, by the end of January, ten AHTs achieved their AKC Championship and two achieved their AKC Grand Championships!! Like all the other hairless dog breeds, the AHT comes in two varieties (hairless & coated) but that is where the similarity ends. The AHT is uniquely different than all the other hairless breeds in several ways. Most importantly, the genetics of the AHT is a simple recessive. This means that the coated AHT carries a hairless gene and can produce both hairless and coated offspring. The hairless AHT has only hairless genes. All the other hairless breeds are genetically a dominant lethal. This means that the hairless variety of all these other hairless breeds need
to have one gene for coat and one hairless gene. Thus giving the hairless variety of those other breeds patterned hair on the head, feet and tail. The coated variety of these other hairless breeds carry no hairless gene and therefore, they can only produce coated offspring if bred together. Because the AHT genetics are different, the hairless AHT is born with a soft down that is referred to as a ‘birth coat’. They lose this birth coat by the time they are 8 to 12 weeks of age. Making the feel of the AHT skin very different and not as prone to the skin issues seen with the other hairless breeds. The hairless AHT is often referred to as the ‘micro-fiber’ of the hairless dog world. The AHT also lacks the dentition issues seen with the other hairless breeds. The AHTs have normal shaped and well-rooted teeth. The hairless and coated AHT come in a variety of colors and patterns, including solid colored. While the AHT may not be the answer for everyone, the smooth, unique skin, lack of hair and ease of removing dander with regular bathing, make it a successful choice for many families that have been unable to own a dog due to allergies. Because the hairless variety of the AHT lacks the protection of a coat, it makes them unsuited for field hunting. While the AHT was not really developed to be a ‘working’ terrier, the instincts are there and many AHTs (both varieties) excel in obedience and a variety of performance events. In the conformation ring the AHT should NOT be sparred. More information about the breed or the breed’s AKC parent club, please visit the AHTCA website at: http://ahtca.info
Lynn K. Poston AHTCA Secretary
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THE CESKY TERRIER:
Bob Cromer
The Perfect Family Friendly, Easily Maintained and Healthy Hunting Terrier
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There is a portion in the description of the Cesky Terrier that reads “shortlegged, well-muscled hunting dog. Understanding that the dog was created to pursue game in the Bohemian woods of the Czech Republic allows anyone seeing the dog and knowing that terrain to understand the method behind creator Frantisek Horak’s development of this wonderful breed.
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HISTORY In the early 1930’s geneticist Frantisek Horak began studying the Scottish Terrier as his choice for a hunting companion. Finally, after sufficient study he purchased one and became a recognized breeder. One problem, however, bothered him: he wanted a pack friendly hunting dog. This did not describe his Scotties. In characteristic Horak fashion he began a study of the Sealyham owned by a close friend who had suggested the breed as an alternative. After a period of study and with his observations satisfied, he purchased a Sealyham and in 1948 began his first breeding; a Sealy dog and a Scotty bitch. By the early to mid-1950’s he had the breed he had envisioned and then some. From the Czech Republic this new breed made its way across Europe through German and Sweden, into England and Canada and migrated east into the Soviet Union. It was imported into the United States in the mid ‘80’s and in 2011 became a member of the AKC Terrier group. The Cesky is still a rare breed as there are perhaps fewer than 750 in this country. This should not dissuade potential owners from seeking them as pets as they are being bred in the US and are growing in popularity. They can also be obtained from reputable breeders in Canada and from numerous countries in Europe. A HUNTING TERRIER The Cesky Terrier is, indeed, a pack friendly hunting dog. The well-muscled bullet like body exhibits a topline which rises slightly from behind the shoulder to the rump/loin providing a balanced and low center of gravity that makes the animal very maneuverable for chasing prey in thickets, bogs and dense forests. Aggressive and keen to the hunt they seek out rabbit, fox, badger and other underground dwelling animals. In packs they have even been known to run down deer. A HAPPY FAMILY PET You might, therefore, think the Cesky is a kin to any aggressive hunting dog; nothing could be further from the truth. Happily, as a plus from this Scotty/Sealy match, Horak got a breed that is family friendly, easy to maintain (Ceskys are clippered and not hand stripped) and loyal to a fault. If there is any fault it is the Cesky is a glutton. The breed can never be left alone with access, easy or otherwise, to unlimited food. They will go to great and even humorous lengths to get “goodies”. One owner recounts having left a pasta bowl on a dining room table. The Cesky maneuvered a bar stool in the kitchen over to a kitchen counter then jumped onto the bar stool, up to the kitchen counter and over to the dining room table. The telltale give away that the Cesky was eating pasta was the “clinking” sound his dog collar made on the side of the pasta bowl. Of course, this love of food is incentive enough for training.
or apartment. They weight 16-22 pounds and are 10-13 inches high and their length is 1-1/2 times their height (normally in the 15 to 18 inch range.) While reserved to strangers they are excellent in family settings. Many Cesky owners consider them equal opportunity family participants as it is not uncommon for them to spend time equally among members of the family. They are also highly intelligent, as the pasta incident demonstrates. Although food is an incentive, they are clever and when they want something they will go to “terrier” lengths of get it. They are highly susceptible to routines that families set. Waking up, going to bed, eating and playing with a favorite tennis ball can be “established times” during the day. Owners have been known to believe their dogs have wrist watches and live by a family routine. A HEALTHY BREED An ongoing health survey (continuing over the last 8 years) on line with the Orthopedic Foundation For Animals (OFA) reveals that the Cesky has no single health malady that make it an animal marked for early death or overbearing health problems. The survey reveals that cancer tumors account for 14.1% of Cesky issues, 13% were orthopedic problems, 12.5% consisted of skin disorders, 12% of Ceskys had cardiovascular disorders, 11.4% had eye problems and 7.1% had blood disorders. These are the highest disease indicators. The survey did not ask when the onset of any disease occurred. Therefore, it could be concluded that problems like cancer, heart disease, eye disorders and diseases normally associated with age confirm the longevity of the breed. In 2015, the OFA survey was amended to include age at onset to confirm this belief. The average lifespan for the Cesky Terrier is between 11 and 14 years. LEARN MORE ABOUT THE CESKY TERRIER Like the Cesky creator, the parent club for the Cesky (The American Cesky Terrier Fanciers Association) believes that any dog being considered by a potential owner should be studied and selected based on its traits. For more information on the Cesky Terrier please see
www.ceskyterrierfanciers.org.
The Cesky is also very adaptable to many training disciplines as they excel in events such as conformation, agility, barn hunting, lure coursing and best of all - couch sitting. They are also the perfect size for either home
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