The Gentlewoman Zine

the gentlewoman Issue nยบ 17, Autumn & Winter 2017

UK ยฃ6.50

Iris Apfel

USA $15.99

The Gentlewoman Issue nยบ 17 Autumn & Winter 2017

Part One: .......................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ............................................................................................................................

Birdsong ....................................................................................................... 6-7 ........................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................... .......................................................................................................................... ............................................................................................................................

Iris Apfel ..................................................................................................... 8-11 ............................................................................................................................ ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ............................................................................................................................ ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ............................................................................................................................ ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ............................................................................................................................ ............................................................................................................................ ............................................................................................................................ ............................................................................................................................

From the early days in her fashion career, to her quirky fashion sense today. We ask the 96-year-old queen of style her opinions on todays contemporary fashion and to share some of her style secrets ................................................................... ............................................................................................................................ ............................................................................................................................ ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ........................................................................................................................... ............................................................................................................................

Denim Different Ways .................................................................................12-13 ........................................................................................................................... ............................................................................................................................

Inside .

4

Birdsong

Birdsong fashion is a London based brand that have their morals firmly set around supporting and empowering women with the manifesto of ‘No sweatshops, no photoshop’.

Created in 2014, the founders Sarah Beckett and Sophie Slater knew from the very beginning exactly what they wanted one of the brands main intentions to be; to showcase beautiful women, flaws and all.

Sophie and Sarah are extremely passionate about tackling the fashion industry’s unrealistic vision of women.

Understanding and experiencing first hand, today’s pressure of needing to be ‘flawless, slim and gorgeous’ just like the photoshopped models that are seen in every fashion campaign, Sophie and Sarah wanted to embrace the real woman’s natural beauty.

Using their own friends as models without photoshop, showcasing beautiful imperfections such as stretch marks, under eye bags and cellulite on a varied range of body types to challenge today’s ideal of what beauty should look like; with the message that one should embrace their imperfections.

Celebrating women of all shapes and sizes.

Don’t you think it’s refreshing to not be bewildered by unrealistically perfect figures for a change?

Not only is Birdsong combatting women’s ideal but also creating fairer fashion standards.

Sourcing their garments from incredibly skilled women’s groups, from migrant women in East London as seamstresses and printmakers to groups of elderly knitters in Kensington.

The company also prides itself in supporting

6

Glossy spreads featuring garments made in sweatshops, imported across the globe from an exotic country, beautifully draped on models with pristine skin and tiny waists, isn’t that all one see’s from fashion brands these days?

Birdsong London challenges the morals of the fashion industry and provides you with a breath of fresh air. the community in other ways by enlisting the help of recovering addicts and those suffering with eating disorders from local charities to be jewellery makers, giving them the chance to tell their personal stories whilst building their individual skills as makers and using it as a form of therapy to help them overcome their demons; making consumers more conscious and aware of where their clothes are sourced, leaving a sustainable, longterm effect in the fashion industry.

Looking at Birdsong as a brand has completely opened my eyes to the world of sustainable and ethical fashion. I have always 100% supported and agreed the views that brands like Birdsong represent. I knew that sustainable fashion was a massive movement, of course, but I always thought that the clothes within it were over priced and not necessarily stylish. How wrong was I? Turns out, the garments are of outstanding quality yet affordable, elegant and above all unique.

So, what has Birdsong done recently one might ask?

The ethical brand has just released their Autumn, Winter 17 collection, their first mainline collection from Birdsong Studios.

The collection was created by exceptionally skilled women spanning the full area of London. Designed in house by Susanna Wen, and individually hand cut, sewn, and finessed by migrant women in Limehouse, Poplar and Shoreditch. Woollen scarves and jumpers were hand knitted in experienced hands by older women in Enfield and Kingston. ‘This collection is dedicated to all the women – workers, wearers and beyond – who came together to create it. To all the women of our past,

and the women whose futures we work towards.’ says Sophie Slater looking back at the collection.

Filled with warm hues of rusty reds, flashes of amber and vibrant forest greens, you can shop this unique collection online at birdsong. london.

(580)

7

“When you don’t dress like everyone else, you don’t have to think like everyone else.”

- Iris

Portrait by Thomas Whiteside 8

Iris Apfel

9

Iris Extravagant fascia fur coat, layers upon layers of beaded neck pieces, decked with bracelets and bangles almost from elbow to wrist and a pair of oversized, black rimmed, circular glasses. Sitting across from the iconic 96 year old queen of style herself, Iris Apfel, is a daunting thing but her welcoming eyes and wide spread smile soon put me at ease as she told me about her younger years, personal style and inspirations.

Interview Beth Harries Portrait Iris Apfel

Text by Beth Harries 10

Beth: Iris, I’ve been wanting to meet you in person for a while now and I’ve got to say that your outfit today did not disappoint.

Such a beautiful coat!

Iris: Oh, thank you! I’ve had it for years now.

B: That’s no surprise at all, you’ve gathered quite an impressive fashion collection. When would you say you first started collecting fashion?

I: Wow. It’s been years. The first ever piece I bought was in Greenwich Village, NY. I was about 11, 12 years old. There was a little shop in a basement of one of those old-fashioned kind of tenement houses. It felt like Aladdin’s cave. Mr Darris, the shopkeeper, was threadbare but elegant, treated me like a mini duchess. He’d never had a kid be so interested in all this junk before. There was a silver brooch, it was a bird, a sparrow I think, and I was fixed on it. I saved up a little bit and bought it for the magnificent sum of 65¢. Apart from that, I first started collecting pieces in around 1948, just as mine and my husband Carl’s textile business ‘Old World Weavers’ started out I guess.

B: Oh really? How did you find the time to search for so many amazing pieces whilst starting up a new business?

I: Me and Carl used to travel all over Europe with the Old World Weavers on the search for new fabrics and artworks for the business, obviously being in these beautiful countries I would stumble across beautiful fashion. Be it from a Gucci store in France, a flea market or a small thrift shop in Holland, if it caught my eye, I had to have it. I buy things because I fall in love with them.

B: That must’ve been a lot of fun. So, how many pieces do you think you have in total?

I: Ha, I honestly couldn’t tell you. I have too many to count.

B: Do you think you have a favourite piece from your collection?

I: I couldn’t possibly pick a favourite. Theres too many to choose form! But one piece that sticks in my mind is a pair of blue denim jeans. It was the ‘40s so I was in university at the time. I decided I wanted a pair of jeans.

Of course, at the time, jeans were not a fashion item but a workman’s item of clothing. So I found a store and asked them for a pair. They laughed and told me there was nothing they could do. I would go back to that store every week asking the same thing until they finally gave in and mail ordered me a pair of boys jeans. Obviously the outfit I created with them was outstanding.

B: You must’ve been the first woman to wear jeans in the ‘40s! Being such a style icon yourself, would you say that you have any celebrity style inspirations?

Apfel I: No, not at all! Seriously, I don’t look for inspiration from people like that. I just piece an outfit together, experiment with different accessories and if it feels right then I’ll wear it.

B: So there aren’t any specific trends that you follow?

I: I don’t really pay attention to trends or anything. I was never one to suffer walking miles in extremely uncomfortable shoes just because they were ‘fashionable’. Thats not me at all! I think the worst faux pas in fashion is to look in a mirror and see somebody else; which so many people do. They think a dress is going to transform them into whoever they saw wearing it first. They don’t realize it’s themselves and their attitude. Because that’s what style is: attitude, attitude, attitude.

B: And is there any specific trend that you particularly dislike?

I: Not a trend as such, I just think that contemporary style is too comfortable! People are beginning to look sloppy and nobody pays that much attention to the way they look anymore. Yes, sweatpants are okay to wear at home but you don’t take advantage and go to, say, the theatre in them.

B: I completely agree with you Iris! How do you think contemporary style has become this way?

I: Society, and lack of respect for yourself!

The way people talk, walk, dress, the way they look and behave? It’s completely different, everything’s been dumbed down.

Years ago you couldn’t step foot in a fine restaurant without a jacket. People used to dress up when they went to a restaurant.

Now, when I go out to eat, my appetite is stolen after sitting diagonal from a man with an open shirt and hairy chest hanging out. Just no respect.

B: Yeahs, I can see how you would lose you appetite after being subject to that! So, you mean that you should be dressed up wherever and whenever possible?

I: No, not at all. All you have to do is look clean and neat and, you know, not offensive on a daily basis.

B: I see, but don’t you dress this well every day?

I: Well, yes. I do dress this well every day, needless to say I don’t wear luxurious fur coats and this much jewellery every day.

Like I said, I just look neat and clean. I would normally throw on a pair of classic jeans and an old sweater or something where I feel comfortable.

B: I can’t imagine you just wearing a pair of jeans and an old sweater for some reason.

I: Can’t you? I think that at my age, it’s still very important to take pride in your

11

appearance, to not let your age overrule your style.

B: Yes, I think I’m safe to say that you definitely haven’t let your age define your style! Do you think that a lot of, and I hope you don’t mind me saying, older women let their age get the better of their style?

I: Oh, of course! I definitely think that age ends up overruling a lot of people’s sense of style as they get older. Its a shame really.

Just because looks fade, it doesn’t mean that your style has to. I found that, for instance, all the pretty girls that I knew that just got by on their looks, as time went on, looks faded.

They were left with nothing. But when you’re someone with style, that’s something you’ll never lose. I mean, how many 96-year-

old covergirls do you now?

B: Do you think that your style has improved over the years?

I: Well, I hope it’s gotten better! I don’t think it’s gotten worse. As you age, everything changes a bit, but it’s basically the same.

I still wear the dress that I wore on my first date with my husband and that was 68 years ago. I get a lot of mileage out of my clothes.

B: Ha, well for as long as I’ve followed your career in fashion, I’ve always been bewildered by your clothes. I don’t think I’ve seen you looking anything less than fabulous!

I: Oh, that’s very kind of you! But really, it’s not just the clothes that you’re wearing that make you look fabulous. Honestly, accessories can make or break your look.

My mother used to tell me that I would look plain wearing a simple black dress, but add a pair of statement earrings and a stack of colourful bangles, thats your outfit made!

B: Do you think your love for accessories partly came from your mother?

I: Without a doubt! My mother worshipped at the altar of the accessory. She was so advanced. She had a boutique way back in the early ‘30s where she sold fabulous costume jewellery. She really was my inspiration. She’s a part of me.

B: It seems like your mother has influenced quite a bit when it comes to fashion. Are there any other valuable lessons that she’s taught you to help you through your fashion career?

I: Attitude! One of the most valuable lessons that she had ever taught me was to own my personal style, and to own it with attitude!

Yes, you could be dressed in the most beautiful garment, or be dripping in the most outstanding jewellery, but that alone doesn’t make you stylish. If you don’t let your attitude and personality show through, you’re just letting the clothes wear you, when really, you should be wearing the clothes.

B: On the topic of style, how did you dis-

cover your own voice in fashion? Your own personal style?

I: I think when I was very young, maybe in my teens, I was experimenting until I found what I thought I liked. My style is and has always been very eclectic, I used to improvise, use handkerchiefs as neck scarves, mixing patterns and prints. Every time I would try something on, I’d try it different ways until I found a way that worked for me.

B: When did the oversized style of glasses spark to you?

I: When I was a kid and I loved flea markets.

Every time I saw an interesting spectacle frame, I bought them. They were for nothing back then and I just put them in a box. I used to take them out every once and a while and put them on because I thought they were such an interesting accessory. I would wear them with no lenses which was kind of insane. And then when I needed glasses, I tool the biggest pair I had and put prescription lenses in them.

Everybody would say to me, ‘Why do you wear such large glasses?’ And I would reply, ‘The bigger to see you.’ That shut em’ up.

B: I love your take on fashion! Your fun and eclectic fashion sense is truly amazing, and I think it’s very refreshing seeing an outfit that isn’t being put together with the ‘newest trend’ in mind! Obviously you’re very creative when it comes down to style, do you think that there should be or are any rules in fashion?

I: Personally, I don’t have any rules, because of I did I’d only be breaking them so it’s a waste of time! There’s so much ‘same’ these days, everything’s so marginalised, I hate it! I think we all need to embrace fashion’s creative nature and stop worrying about what people think. If you like the way something looks, then wear it. It doesn’t matter what the ‘rules’ say.

B: Haha! What have you done with the rest of the frames that you’ve collected over the years?

I: Well, I’ve donated a lot of them to be used on the mannequins wearing pieces from my collection in store window displays and museum exhibitions. I’ve put a lot of them up for sale too, what use are over 50 pairs of lens-less spectacle frames to me? They’re no use to me now!

B: And what about the rest of your fashion collection? Have you got any plans for it?

I: I’m planning to sell the majority of the collection. I don’t want to get rid of half of my collection but it’s something I have to do.

I’d much rather see exactly where my clothes are going, instead of not getting the chance to know at all, if you know what I mean. As long as I know that my collection is going to a good place, I’m happy.

(1975)

Denim.

I

12

Denim. Who knew it could be done in so many ways?

Most of us wear it every single day, but next to none of us realise how versatile it is.

Denim has to be one of the most understated materials we all wear. From casual, laid back looks (think: well worn slogan tee tucked into distressed Mon Jeans) to elevated silhouettes (sleek denim trench coats and pleated trousers). Here are some of London’s favourite ways to wear denim this season.

First: Mixing prints and textures.

Combine a pair of faded frayed-edge denim jeans with a dark washed denim shirt. Wear this with a pair of statement heeled boots and layer up for warmth with a fur-trimmed printed coat from VERA WANG in your favourite pastel blue.

Second: Distressed in denim.

Yes. The Mom jeans are back, but this time they’re distressed. Counter your overly-ripped mom jeans, turned up at the bottoms, with a sleek trench for a fresh take on the double-denim look. Pair with a simple, barely there heel to add a touch of sophistication.

Third: Patched up.

Now is the time to wear multiple washes of denim all at once. Grab a pair of patch-worked boyfriend jeans and tuck in your staple classic white shirt. Perfectly pair this combination with a black and white checked blazer by ANTHONY VACCARELLO to add more fascination to your look.

Fourth: Add Western boots.

With many thanks to RAF SIMONS, Western has been revived. Western boots laden with buckles worn underneath some grey washed denim boot cuts creates the perfect combination.

Fifth: Sleeveless.

Lose the sleeves this season with a simple sleeveless denim jacket, giving you the punk revival update that will see you through to 2018. Layer with a simple black turtle neck to keep the chills away.

13

Sixth: The Indigo Noughties Dark, petrol washes that we wore in 2002, do you remember? We welcome it back with thanks to TIBI, TOM FORD, and ADAM SELMAN. Create the perfect ensemble with an oversized, indigo washed jacket and a pair of jeans in the same wash, paired with a black high-necked top. Bring some light back to the look with a white leather shoulder bag.

Seventh: Pale jeans and Barbie heels.

Barbie pink and an ice-blue denim are never going to be a match... Envision light, distressed boyfriend jeans paired with some barbie pink CELINÈ’s. Complete the look with a black vinyl trench with a fur trim.

Eighth: Street Smart.

Want to achieve the ultimate streetwear-chic vibe but also want sweatpant-level comfort?

Get both by swapping out your traditional jeans for a slouchy drawstring-waist pair with ultra-tattered hems. Wear with some white patent loafers and a simple bomber jacket.

Ninth: Denim and leather.

Don’t stray away from your foolproof skinny jeans. Layer them with tones of chocolate brown leather in the form of a SAINT LAURENT biker jacket and matching thighhigh boots.

Tenth: It’s Sparkling Season.

If theres anytime to bring out the sparkle, its this season. Accessorise your classic denim with blinged-out earrings, pumps and clutch bags. Making blue denim a series style proposition.

(502)

Last Page

So long.

Though everything has been said for now in this printed instalment of the magazine, the particularly curious can sign up for further entertainment and notification by joining The Gentlewoman Club. Until February 2018, that is, when we’ll be back with a 18th issue. Farewell for now, readers!

15

Fall Winter collection 17

CĂŠline.com