Spring 2015 crave by Beth Stallings

down south

dining in over-the-rhine

restaurant rehab

Can the crest owners spark a social change?

gourmet toast

the greatest thing since ...

top secrets tales from the storied bexley steakhouse

65 ways to eat on the go

The 7-day Taco Diet 12 Perfect Cocktail Classics

at el c 34 d . oo , p N e ure

The cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best African Eats

$4.99 Spring 2015

Creative cakes by the Slice

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your guide to pop-up dining

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contents spring 2015

down south

dining in over-the-rhine

restaurant rehab

gourmet toast

Can the Crest owners spark a soCial Change?

the greatest thing sinCe ...

spring 2015

top secrets tales from the storied bexley steakhouse

65 ways to eat on the go

The 7-day Taco dieT 12 Perfect cocktail classics

at ec 4 dl . 3 oo , p

n re ee u

the city’s best african eats

$4.99 Spring 2015

creative cakes by the slice

74470 26795 9 columbuscrave.com

your guide to pop-up dining

s ut we our f in

0_C1_Cover.indd 1-2

2/5/15 4:58 PM

O n T h e C ov e r

Great Takeout 65 spots for a restaurant-quality meal on the go

Milestones Tales you never knew about The Top Steak House

dining out How to catch a pop-up eatery before it’s gone

trends

Photo: Tim Johnson; Cover photo: Will Shilling

Toast off: Dan the Baker vs. Alchemy Juice Bar and Cafe

102 Speakeasy

Where to find, and how to recreate, memorable classic cocktails

f e at u r e s

change agent

The Crest’s Ali Alshahal wants to change the way restaurants work.

Buyer & Cellar Inside cool and quirky restaurant wine cellars

The 7-Day Taco Diet

Can you survive a week on tacos alone? Our editor did and lived to write about it.

coming soon Cleveland chef Jonathon Sawyer talks Noodlecat Columbus.

ethnic eats A guide to great African fare

136

Sweet! Pattycake Bakery’s creative cakes by the slice

Manhattan at Curio s p r i n g 2 0 1 5 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • 7

contents spring 2015

openings Bold DareDevil Dogs is more bite than bark.

starters

Editor’s Note

Connect Our favorite food shots from readers

Scoop

Table Talk

Exit

1 19

134

splash Comfort fare at The Whitney House

Craveworthy Mix it up with creative bitters from The Bitter Wife.

In The kitchen The Commissary: built for chefs, open to all

Q&A Little Eater opens at the North Market.

parties

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Road Trip Cincinnati’s Over-theRhine neighborhood

Breakfast Inside Sammy’s Bagels

Regular Dining at Gallo’s Tap Room

Back of the House Adam Roelle cracks Ohio’s antiquated liquor laws.

Perfect Pairings Ordering wine by the glass

Dining Out A quick-hit guide to the restaurants in this issue

Closing Time Brandon Bir of Crimson Cup Coffee & Tea shares his favorite places to eat and drink.

Photo: meghan ralston

drink Talking German traditions with the brewer at Hofbrauhaus Columbus

Dish Classic Italian affogato served three ways

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S tarters | editor’s note

You Just Might Like It I

almost got in a fight over toast. Not an actual slice of toast, but the topic of toast as a trend. An old friend—one who typically shares my intrigue for quirky food trends— didn’t even want to hear about it. “It makes sense,” I pled with her, “if you’re a bread baker and you have a storefront. Isn’t it just another way to show off what you make? Like a pastry chef selling chocolate chip cookies?” She gave me a look of pure attitude and argued she could make whatever she wanted at home. Why would she leave the house for toast? Her interjections continued until finally she paused and said, “Wait. How much is it?” When I told her—roughly five bucks for three slices and three toppers—she started to laugh. “Oh,” she said. “For $5 I would try it.” (If you’d also like to, see “Toast Points” on page 32.) That’s the key phrase, isn’t it? Try it. That’s the two-word golden rule my husband and I settled on when I took this gig. My Polish, Parma-raised husband had an appetite for Mrs. T’s pierogi and Hamburger Helper when we met. On one of our first nights out at Alana’s Food and Wine, I practically begged him to try a little chicken liver pate. He did, and by the time our entrees came, he wouldn’t let the server clear the few remaining bites. Admittedly, I’m not always the most adventurous person—you won’t see me rappelling off a mountain anytime soon—but my palate has gotten a worldly workout. It’s the part of me that’s seemingly fearless. (The craziest thing I’ve eaten in the last year? It’s a tie between fermented squid and soba noodles made with cricket flour.) I used to loathe blue cheese and never understood how anyone could enjoy a banana. Now, it’s rare not to find both in my shopping cart.

Forgive me for sounding parental, but I’m issuing a challenge to you, no matter how adventurous an eater you are: Try new foods in 2015. Need help? That’s what we’re here for. Try a new cuisine (we suggest starting with African, page 60). Vodka drinkers, try a bourbon cocktail (we have 12 great classic cocktail suggestions on page 102). Spend a week eating nothing but tacos, like I did (the full recap on page 96). And, yes, consider paying $5 for a few slices of toast. New to the Issue Keeping our own resolution, we’re trying out a few new things this issue. First, our “In and Out” column has been revamped into a new column called “Hot Seats” (page 32). It’s a roundup of 10 food trends, restaurants and bars we’re talking about now. Tear it out (it’s perforated!), and use it as a guide to what’s new in the dining scene. We’ve also launched a new column we’re calling “Back of the House” in our Table Talk section, the part of the magazine where you can find advice from experts on topics like great ethnic fare and food-centric road trips. Its purpose: To shine a light on those who work behind the scenes in the local food and drink industry. This issue, Adam Roelle shares a firsthand account of what it’s like to pitch the state liquor control board (it’s fascinating!), on page 64. Happy Eating,

Beth Stallings, Editor

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Photo: ryan m.l. young

I’d love to hear what you think of the magazine! Email me feedback on what you love and what you think we could do better at bstallings@columbuscrave.com.

S tarters | connect

FoodSharing Use the hashtag #CraveCbus to share your favorite dishes and drinks from around the city. We’ll print a few of our favorites in the next issue of Crave. And don’t forget to follow the local food adventures of editor Beth Stallings at @CraveEditor.

While at Ethyl and Tank on Campus, @mollytavoletti says, “I don’t know about you, but I’m feeling 22 brunches.”

@calipinoh starting the day off right with a strawberry beignet and coffee from Early Bird Food Truck on Indianola Avenue.

@kasuallife bloggers had us wishing we were invited to the dim sum brunch party at Sunflower Chinese.

@gardizzone enjoys a brunch of Pork Belly Madame and a Caesar salad at Latitude 41 Downtown.

We envy @sabsuri’s “tough day at the office” spent with bier and pretzels at Hofbrauhaus Columbus.

@1808bistro shared this pic (shaksuka, part of their new brunch menu) taken by Crave writer @breakfastwithnick.

If you ask @thedjpastor, Skillet is the “best brunch spot in Columbus.”

@racheljoybaransi shares a first look at the Toast Flight (she loved the housecultured butter) from Dan the Baker’s Toast Bar in Grandview.

@thevenetianswife had one word for this scallop dish with sweet potato, cauliflower and bacon vinaigrette at Rigsby’s Kitchen: divine.

Chef @chefbillglover shares the stunning foie gras dish he prepared for a James Beard dinner at Gallerie Bar & Bistro in December.

Waffles are what Hungry Soul Cafe does best, as @nickspics9966 shows us with this chicken and waffles action shot.

Local pierogi cart @sophies_ gourmet_pierogi teases a pierogi special while serving at Staas Brewing Co. in Delaware.

This Turtle Brownie Cheesecake from The French Loaf in Grandview tastes every bit as good as it looks, promises @bestofthemenu.

“You don’t need another person to tell you how good the egg sandwich at Fox in the Snow Cafe is,” jests @starektaylor, “but I’m going to tell you anyway.” Hear, hear!

@rachaelwingo gets fired up with a blazing cup of Grass Skirt Tiki Room’s hot buttered rum.

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Former Irish pub P.K. O’Ryan’s is now a new kind of public house, this one distinctly American in style and comfortfood fare. Opened in Olde Worthington in late 2014, the restaurant is named after the one-time home of owner Ian Brown’s wife, The Whitney House, a nickname it earned for its address on nearby Whitney Avenue. It’s the place, Brown says, where family and friends would gather for events big and small, joyous and sorrowful. The familial vibe is exactly what Brown and executive chef Maxwell Avon look to create at the bar and restaurant, from the brick-walled and stark white tiled atmosphere, to rustic comfort fare. There are no foams, no powders here. It’s honest food, Avon says, but with a few playful touches. For example, Avon subs farro for typical Arborio rice in a risotto dish. A bone-in pork chop is topped with apple-cranberry chutney. And real, homey classics shine through on the daily specials list, like Big Ol’ Meatloaf on Wednesdays, Mom’s Stroganoff on Thursdays and Fried Chicken on Sundays. “All of the dishes are recognizable,” Brown says. “They are dishes that we like to eat, but with our own twists.” thewhitneyhouserestaurant.com —Beth Stallings

S’mores Parfait at The Whitney House W i nf t a el r l 2 0 1 4 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • 1 7

S coop | milestones

24-ounce, bone in rib-eye special

Pianist Sonia Modes

The Yoders in their classic steak house restaurant "The Top" features a host of retro decorations that harken back to the late 50's and early 60's

The Top co-owners Denver and Regina Adkins

always in style

The venerable Top Steak House turns 60 this spring. We celebrate with a few things you may not know about the old-school supper club. Story by beth stallings

he running joke about The Top Steak House is just as true as it is amusing—the only thing that’s ever changed at the Bexley institution is the prices. When the steakhouse opened in 1955, $5 could get you a shrimp cocktail, charred rib-eye and stiff martini to wash it all down. As The Top prepares to turn 60 in April, co-owners Regina and chef Denver Adkins, who bought the restaurant with their family in 2006, have planned a year’s worth of specials to pay tribute to the timeless classics perennially served here. We asked them to share a few tidbits about The Top that only seasoned regulars may know. thetopsteakhouse.com  The plates aren’t original, but the maker is. The same West Virginia-based china company has been crafting the white china dishware with The Top insignia throughout the restaurant’s tenure. Some guests will ask to buy a plate or two, and

the Adkinses keep extra plates in stock specifically for these requests. But that doesn’t stop dishes from disappearing, Regina says.  If it has a Top logo, someone will try to steal it. Plates aren’t the only things that go missing. A few years ago, Denver ordered five dozen stemless wine glasses with The Top moniker. They lasted about two weeks, he says. Nostalgic diners don’t stop at logoed items. “The picture of the gentlemen in the men’s room, of the Rat Pack, we’ve had people try to walk out with it,” Regina says.  There’s a secret door nicknamed the Whore Door. The room in the center of the restaurant was once a private bar and dining area with a rear door to the outside. “There’s a secret door you knocked on, and they let you in,” Regina says. “They’d say you took your wives to the front bar on Friday and your mistresses to the back bar on Saturday.” Then, in a whispered tone, she adds, “They call

1 8 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

the door the Whore Door.”  The place is haunted. One night after hours, Denver and Regina were at the bar, every door in the restaurant locked. The breezeway door leading into the restaurant suddenly swung wide open, as if someone had walked through it. Pans and ingredients have also been known to fly off shelves. “You can chalk anything up to coincidence, but it is a little weird that it happens all the time,” Denver says. As for who haunts the place, the owners speculate it could be the former longtime maitre d’ or a long-ago murdered regular.  The bar has a craft cocktail list, but the most popular drinks are classics. Perhaps it’s no surprise, but the most-ordered drink is a vodka martini with blue cheese-stuffed olives. Second to that are Manhattans, followed by old-fashioneds.  The house piano player has been playing here since 1964. In 50 years, house pianist

W O N PE O

Anniversary Specials

To celebrate its diamond anniversary, The Top Steak House co-owners Regina and Denver Adkins are focusing on serving retro steakhouse classics all year. “It’s all about the throwback,” Regina says. Dinner deals: From Sunday to Wednesday, two can dine at The Top for $60. The special fixed-price menu, featuring a shared starter or choice of soup or salad, an entree and dessert to share, will change every month. In March, it includes French onion soup, prime rib with au gratin potatoes and roasted asparagus and creme brulee. Classic cocktails: Every other month, they’ll release a cocktail list inspired by a different decade. They’ll revive the ’60s in March and April, the ’70s in May and June, the ’80s in July and August and so on. Original order: In April, The Top will run a Facebook contest giving a few lucky diners a chance to order off the original 1955 menu, prices and all.

GUIL

Our Chefs: Jamie Kline, Brian Hinshaw, Ian Rough, and John Paul Iacobucci.

Sonia Modes has barely missed a performance, entertaining diners with classic tunes on Tuesday and Saturday nights. “She sits down at 7:30 and does not get out of that seat,” Regina says. “She’s as sweet as punch. And she’s a matchmaker. I think she has like 50-some marriages under her belt.” “I’ve got somebody for you, honey,” Modes will say to the eligible and looking.  The decor is as retro as it looks. “The majority of this place is original,” Regina says. The piano is the same. The ceiling is the same, and so are the oversize bulbs and huge saucer that hang in the dining room. The cat sconces that flank the piano are original fixtures from the back dining room. The cappuccino machine in the corner next to the bar loudly steamed milk and espresso until the mid’90s. “It really is the same feel,” she says. “If we were allowed to smoke cigarettes in here, it would probably feel the same.”  Those who don’t know The Top think it’s a strip club. Both Regina and Denver admit they initially thought the practically windowless supper club was a strip club. And they’re not the first ones to say that, Regina laughs. “When people walk in, they are surprised,” she says. Denver continues, recalling his first impression: “I wasn’t really sure what the hell it was. My first time here, it was really smoky. My steak was really charred. I dug it.”  One of the most popular dishes isn’t on the menu. While filet mignon is a perennial best seller, Denver keeps a 45-day, dry-aged, 24-ounce bone-in rib-eye topped with blue cheese almost constantly on the specials menu. “It’s never been on the menu, but if we don’t have it, people freak out,” Denver says. Regina adds, “I’ve seen it go out with a 20-ounce lobster tail.”

A Team of Artisans for All Seasons Our culinary team, or “culinary guild” is proud to debut The Guild House, an artisan eatery featuring creative American cuisine. There’s a lot of love on every plate, and we look forward to sharing our unique collection from “Our Guild” with you.

worthy

Bitter Twist

Last year, bartender Mykie Marks turned over a bottle of mass-produced bitters to find artificial flavoring in the list of ingredients. That got her thinking: How hard could it be to craft bitters with real fruits and herbs? “It’s really not difficult,” says Marks, founder of The Bitter Wife. “It just takes patience.” In her creative line of homemade bitters—with flavors including Coffee Pecan and Black Pepper Vanilla—you’ll find only natural ingredients. “I think it makes everything taste so much fresher and real,” Marks says. You can find The Bitter Wife behind local bars, including 89 Fish & Grill, and on shelves at Weiland’s Market and The Barrel & Bottle. Prices start at $10 per bottle. mykiedelligatta@gmail.com Old-fashioned —Beth Stallings with Orange Blossom bitters

cherry almond

four peel citrus

Orange Blossom

Put a twist on your next negroni with nutty and fruity Cherry Almond bitters.

Four Peel Citrus bitters is Marks’ tribute to Watershed and their Four Peel Gin.

Marks suggests splashing Orange Blossom bitters into an old-fashioned.

coffee pecan

Black Pepper Vanilla

cocoa berry fig

“Coffee Pecan is good with any cocktail that would normally use bitters, like a Manhattan or an oldfashioned,” Marks says. “It will change the dynamic a little.”

“Vanilla is one of my favorite flavors,” says Marks, who uses spiced rum as the base spirit to craft the sweet and spicy Black Pepper Vanilla. It’s no surprise this bitter works best in rum drinks or to change the dimension of a flip.

“There’s no way this will work,” Marks’ husband said to her when she combined two of her favorite flavors—fig and chocolate—to craft the Cocoa Berry Fig. It’s one of her best sellers.

Negroni with nutty and fruity Cherry Almond bitters

Photo: Will Shilling

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S coop | openings

More Bite S Than bark

Big, bold flavors top hot dogs and brats prepared in DareDevil Dogs’ tiny space south of Campus.

Story by beth stallings

haved Brussels sprouts and potato chips seem as natural as ketchup and mustard on a hot dog lately. There’s just something about an all-beef wiener or bratwurst that makes it a catchall for ingredients, says Mike Gadd, co-owner and chef at charming hole-in-thewall DareDevil Dogs. “I kind of envision the hot dog or brat as another form of the hamburger,” Gadd says. A dog is easy to hold, simple to order and quick to serve. To prove his point, Gadd shares how a few of this south-of-Campus shop’s seven specialty dogs and bratwursts were inspired by classic dishes. daredevilhotdogs.com

You can craft your own specialty dog at DareDevil from a list of nearly 20 toppings. There are only 12 counter seats at the slender hot dog shop, so if you want to stretch out and chase your dog with a brew, head to neighboring bar Village Idiot, where you can order off the complete DareDevil menu (including sides of tater tots) from a connecting takeout window.

SKY DIVER

THRILL SEEKER

This fiery, crackly brat is reminiscent of Buffalo chicken wings. To get the crisp texture, Gadd marinates a chicken brat in buttermilk for an hour before dredging it in flour and tossing it into the fryer. He then coats the link in orange-Sriracha sauce. “Hot sauce and butter is your traditional Buffalo sauce,” he says. “This gives it a little more brightness. Citrus goes great with spicy things.” Shaved celery and blue cheese aioli cool it down.

This was the original dog on Gadd’s list of signature offerings. He tops an all-natural beef hot dog (all dogs and brats are made with Ohio-raised meats by Cleveland’s Blue Ribbon Meats) with baked beans, house slaw, bacon aioli and white cheddar. “This reminds me of campfires growing up,” Gadd says. “I’d always put baked beans on my hot dogs. It’s one of my favorites.”

With this pork brat topped with thinly shaved apples and caramelized Brussels sprouts, Gadd was going for a handheld dish that recalls traditional German flavors like pork and apples. “Every flavor you want is in there,” he says. “There’s sweetness, acid, and the honey whole-grain aioli brings it all together.” It’s wrapped in a poppy-seed bun crafted by Matt’s Bakery in Whitehall, which supplies all the buns at DareDevil.

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Photo: meghan ralston

FIRE EATER

S coop | drink

Haus Bier

German brewmaster Robert Makein shares the centuriesold traditions that make Hofbrauhaus Columbus one of a kind among city breweries.

Story by anthony dominic

obert Makein grew up 4,000 miles from Columbus in Dusseldorf, Germany, where breweries and beer gardens are institutions comparable to churches and city halls. As the Hofbrauhaus Columbus brewmaster puts it: “You don’t really need to explain to anyone what Hofbrauhaus is in Germany.” Makein has been brewing since he was 16, eventually enrolling at Doemens school and brewery in Munich, where his work caught the attention of Hofbrauhaus. He’s been in the States since 2012, formerly at Hofbrauhaus’ Pittsburgh and Newport, Kentucky, outposts before taking the reins at the Grandview brewpub, whose 300-seat outdoor beer garden will open in April. hofbrauhauscolumbus.com In Germany, you had to go to school for three years to brew on a commercial level. Do you think this process sets German brewers apart? Unfortunately, I have to say yes. Sometimes it pushes people forward. They have much more passion, I would say. Three years is a long time. I may be a little bit oldfashioned; I like the German education. Sometimes you have beer you don’t like, but it’s still good. What happens here is you have a beer that has, say, an infection (subpar experimental beers kegged and sold for novelty). And that happens more than once, and you think, “Eh, so sad.” Maybe that’s because they experiment with pumpkin, [that] kind of stuff. That’s interesting, absolutely—but sometimes you think, “No, maybe you should not do this.”

In contrast to Germany, with the national purity law? Yes. Starting in 1516, [beer] was just water, malt, hops. And in 1516 they had no idea about yeast, so they added yeast later to the law. These are the four ingredients we can use, the only ingredients you’ll find in [Hofbrauhaus] beer. As a brewer, does this make you feel as if your hands are tied? I’d say no. I think it protects the customer from a bad beer. You just get four natural ingredients. We don’t add any chemicals to get the pH better, to get the flavor more flavorful or a quicker fermentation. And that’s what I like. You cannot get a fresher beer than this. The traditionally tall head on Hofbrauhaus beers— that’s meant to be a sign of freshness? That’s the reason why sometimes we get complaints. “The glass is not full.” That’s true. It’s not full because you want to have this head in your glass—you then know it’s fresh. Because bacteria eats the protein in the foam, and that would destroy the foam.

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And Hofbrauhaus also serves its beer at one consistent temperature? We serve our beer at 42 degrees, so it’s still cold, but you’ll never find a frozen mug. The reason why you cannot find it here is we still want to taste the beer. That’s what I don’t understand about that commercial—“triple filtered and ice cold.” Ice cold? I don’t get why you should do this. But they’re selling a lot of beer, so they’re doing something right. You moved to Columbus last August. Since then, have any local breweries caught your eye? I had the opportunity before we opened to see almost all breweries in Columbus. There are a lot of interesting breweries that make a lot of good beer. I was surprised by Zauber Brewing. They have a German-trained brewmaster making really good beer—all of the beers are really drinkable, really easy, nothing off-flavor. The other cool brewery here—that I think, “Wow, that’s a great idea”—is Seventh Son. For me, it’s a very American craft brewery, in a garage, getting bigger and bigger.

Photo: tim johnson

On the flip side, what do you enjoy about American beer culture? What I really like is a peanut butter porter—something really, really outstanding. “Wow, you can do this with beer, and it tastes good?” There’s just so much variety of what you can do. It is an open field.

Robert Makein at Hofbrauhaus

G. MICHAEL’S PRIX FIXE MONDAYS 3 Courses for $30

G. MICHAEL’S HAPPY HOUR

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S coop | dish

Meant to be Three twists on classic affogato Story by Beth stallings

e’d like to thank the culinary matchmaker who introduced ice cream to a hot shot of espresso. Affogato is a perfect marriage—a beautiful compromise between hot and cold, bitter and sweet. There’s a new texture in every bite of the Italian coffee-dessert mash-up as vanilla ice cream melts and all that remains are a few chilled sips of cappuccino-like espresso. That any chef or coffee shop could improve upon this already delightful pairing, well, we didn’t believe it until we tasted it.

Rigsby’s Kitchen

 Coppa Gelato The drowned dessert ($6.50) is the most customizable at Coppa Gelato in Westerville. Here, customers can choose any house-made gelato flavor they want to star in this dish. Owner Linda Warns-Davis loves their Salty Caramel, but we’re partial to Maple Praline for a sweet and nutty (and a little crunchy) treat. Two shots of an espresso blend from Silverbridge Coffee are poured over two scoops of gelato and served immediately. “You serve it within 10 seconds; that is the key,” Warns-Davis says. coppagelato.com

Years ago, chef Kent Rigsby read an article that praised pouring scotch over vanilla ice cream. Intrigued, he started serving his own variation, with vanilla ice cream and shaved espresso beans as a garnish. “My father liked it so much we christened it Da’s Favorite Affogato,” he says. This liquored-up version featuring his dad’s favorite whisky—Famous Grouse—has been on and off the Short North eatery’s menu for more than 15 years. It’s recently fallen off the dessert list, but Rigsby assures it’ll reappear once the weather warms. rigsbyskitchen.com

Fox in the Snow Cafe

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Photo: will shilling

When Jeff Excell came to Columbus from Brooklyn to scout locations for this coffee shop and cafe, he couldn’t believe Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams wasn’t all over dessert menus around town. “Everywhere else in the U.S. has it. It was a missed opportunity,” he says. With Jeni’s now in his backyard, offering an affogato was nonnegotiable at Fox in the Snow in Italian Village, where they pour two shots of espresso over a generous scoop of Jeni’s Salty Caramel in a cappuccino cup. “The salt in the ice cream really plays well with the espresso,” Excell says. “It’s the best affogato I’ve ever had.” facebook.com/foxinthesnowcafe

S coop | in the kitchen

How can you get involved? Sign up for The Commissary’s newsletter or visit their website for a complete calendar of events. If you simply want to gather over a love of food, The Commissary has started Digfest, a monthly book club focused on food-related books. You can also donate unwanted cookbooks and cake pans to their growing library.

Chefs Avishar Barua and Silas Caeton (above) hosted a pop-up dinner at The Commissary in January.

Test Kitchen N

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Story by beth stallings

Since it opened in August, The Commissary’s event calendar has been filled with pop-up dinners and cooking classes hosted by area chefs and bakers. Some visiting pros are chefs searching for a professional home, like former Veritas chefs Silas Caeton and Avishar Barua, who hosted a Midwestern-themed dinner in January. Others are cooks with experience to share, such as Guang Jiao of Helen’s Asian Kitchen, who showed students the art of Chinese dumplings, or Matt Swint of Matija Breads, who taught a class on bread making. If coffee or brews are more your thing, there’s also a space designated as the “Lab,” where would-be coffee roasters and beer brewers can tinker with equipment or sign up for classes. “Food is what brings a community together, and if there’s some way we can help or give back, then we just wouldn’t be living up to our goals if we didn’t,” says Djupe, adding any food created in The Commissary kitchens can be donated to a charity. “We want to bring anybody, everybody into our kitchens and our space. “I love Columbus, and I love the food we have here,” she continues, “but I am really excited about helping anybody with ideas to make more food and better food.” thecommissarycolumbus.com

Photos: tim johnson

ot long after The Commissary opened, two chefs sat in a break room area akin to a living room with soft seating, a decorative rug and coffee table. With a wall of cookbooks behind them, they conferred, sharing ideas for an upcoming collaboration dinner. When Kate Djupe saw this, she nearly cried. “It was one of my more emotional moments,” says The Commissary founder, who on the inside was screaming, “It’s working!” The 16,000-square-foot Commissary on Dublin Road in Marble Cliff was designed for meetings such as this, and for the execution of food-related ideas. It’s a warehouse-shaped incubator of sorts with a commercial kitchen, storage and event facilities created to cater to those with one-off ideas (like pop-up dinners or cooking classes) to food startups (caterers and food trucks) to existing, cottage-industry businesses that need a place to scale up. But unlike other incubators strictly for industry folk, Djupe wants The Commissary to be a community gathering place. That’s why the space is open to the public with low-commitment offerings like a cookbook and cake pan library, dining events and culinary classes in the 2,000-square-foot kitchen.

The Commissary was designed for chefs but is open to the community.

Star Produce L

ittle Eater’s stark white stand at the North Market looks like a modern butcher shop. But instead of breaking down animals, here you’ll find chef-owner Cara Mangini expertly chopping fresh produce for salads like Sweet Potato and Black Bean Succotash or Quinoa with Squash, Kale and Pumpkin Seeds. Mangini gained a following for her flavorful salad scoops, crostinis and frittatas (and a crave-worthy buttermilk cheddar biscuit) at pop-up eateries inside both Hills Market locations. Her North Market outpost, which opened in February, will follow suit, bringing produce to center stage. littleeater.com —Beth Stallings Calling Little Eater a salad concept seems to short-change what you do. How do you describe it? We are serving produce-inspired food. If you can, think of it like a farm-deli concept, where we’re highlighting the work of our local farmers and doing what we can to bring out the best in vegetables. The goal is to make this vegetablebased food as decadent and delicious as possible.

RENDERINg: COURTESY lITTLE eATER

You say vegetables were your calling. What’s involved in the art of treating vegetables properly? I try to let that vegetable shine, to keep it simple so you can actually taste the vegetable. The thing to keep in mind is being in touch with the season. Pair it with other ingredients that come out at the same time. Nature provides the recipes for you. What can we expect at your North Market stand? We’ll have seven salads by the scoop, five that don’t change throughout the season. And then we’ll have two to three that may change daily or weekly, depending on the product and when we get inspired. We want to make vegetables more approachable. We want people to feel like we can have conversations about food and how to work with vegetables.

A Bucket of Choices for Fish Fridays:

Fish ‘n Chips • Bucket O’ Shrimp • Codwich Asian Tuna Wrap • Tequila Lime Tilapia Pan-Seared Salmon • Blackened Salmon Salad

9 Columbus Locations MyRustyBucket.com

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S coop | DINING OUT

Pop-Up BlowOut Story by anthony dominic

hy the surge of pop-ups in the last year? The trend—in short, mobile chef-driven concepts—reflects the way we enjoy cooking and dining out today: casually and with room for experimentation. Whether a pop-up is a one-night stand or a longtime marriage, it means little overhead for chefs and plenty of flexibility for diners. “People are getting more comfortable with [pop-ups],

because it’s just fun for everyone,” says chef Catie Randazzo of Challah! food truck, who is planning a collaborative pop-up brunch with Four Thieves in March. “The chefs get to do their thing, which may not be what they do during the week, and people don’t have to commit the way they do at a traditional restaurant.” Whether a pop-up pro or first timer, or looking for something dashing to dive-y, here’s how to find the right concept for you.

dinner lab Various locations

food trucks

Facebook is the best way to keep tabs on these chefs.

Chefs like Randazzo and Matt Swint of Matija Breads often venture beyond the confines of their trucks. Watch for Sophie’s Gourmet Pierogi, too, whose cart makes appearances at local breweries.

This national pop-up club is joining the city’s dining scene. A paid membership allows diners to attend any of the group’s planned 60-plus events throughout the year. dinnerlab.com

the commissary

To owner Kate Djupe, The Commissary is a living, breathing community space. Visit the 16,000foot commercial kitchen in Marble Cliff, and there’s no telling what you’ll find—or, rather, eat. thecommissarycolumbus.com

four thieves thirst parlour Various locations

wycliff’s kitchen Tikka Masala & Grill

Save for a tiny white sign by the door, you may never know Wycliff Nduati is serving authentic Kenyan fare out of this Northside spot. facebook.com/wycliffskitchen

Think of a Four Thieves event as a month’s worth of bar outings condensed into one boozy night. You’ll be treated to seasonal cocktails and lavish small bites. fourthievesthirstparlour.com

A guide to Columbus’ growing popup restaurant scene

blu olive Hey Hey Bar & Grill

katalina’s for oddfellows Oddfellows Liquor Bar

Forget the white tablecloths and head to Hey Hey for no-frills Italian fare from Blu Olive. The food truck will be serving at the dusky Merion Village bar through fall. bluolivefoodtruck.com

If pasta doesn’t sound right with a beer, order the popular Bison Burger with a bag of OH! Chips.

Former Veritas Tavern chefs Silas Caeton and Avishar Barua are Commissary regulars. Their February pop-up was inspired by the cuisines of Veracruz, Mexico, and Bangladesh.

Ever hankered for booze with those pancake balls? Belly up at this kitschy Short North dive where Katalina’s established an outpost last fall. oddfellowsliquorbar.com

jailhouse rock Little Rock Bar and Scarlet and Grey Cafe

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You may have spotted the Pierogi Mountain name in the freezers at Weiland’s Market. Scoot over to Cafe Bourbon Street for the ready-to-eat thing. facebook.com/ PierogiMountain

Tuesdays are dollar pierogi night, where you can score most of Matt Majesky’s dumplings for $1 a pop.

In addition to Katalina’s favorites, you’ll find OYO-spiked hot chocolate and Slut-Sauce-topped chorizo sliders.

Photos: FILE

Paddy Wagon’s permanent fixture inside this pair of jam bars is worth the trek for gussied-up $4.50 dogs from The Good Frank. paddywagon.weebly.com

pierogi mountain Cafe Bourbon Street

S coop | trends

toast points Two reasons to get up and go out for toast.

Story by beth stallings

toast bar In addition to Toast Flights (three slices and spreads for $5.50), Dan

Riesenberger had his mind set on offering savory, Danish-inspired Smorrebrod ($6) at his 10-seat organic bakery. He starts with Danish rye—dense, whole-grain bread made with sprouted local organic rye berries and packed with sunflower, flax and pumpkin seeds. “It has a really assertive full flavor, a lot of tanginess,” Riesenberger says. That tang complements a topper of smoked salmon, house-pickled red onions, English cucumber, Cloverton cheese from Laurel Valley Creamery (think sharp chevre, but made with cow’s milk) and fresh dill. “You eat one,and you’re good for four hours,” he says. dan-the-baker.com 

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Photo:will shilling

e get the derision around the topic of artisanal toast. How can you turn something so homey into a food fad? Then we took a bite of Dan the Baker’s sunflower flax topped with fresh almond butter and maple sugar served at his Toast Bar in Grandview. Sure, we get the arguments that it’s a bit twee, but we can’t deny it’s a great way for bread bakers to showcase their wares.

 alchemy juice bar & cafe Manager and registered dietitian Alexis Joseph wanted a warm, yet healthy, food option at her cold-pressed juice and smoothie cafe counter inside The Fitness Loft on Parsons Avenue. Toast was the answer, and avocado is her go-to spread. “I call it nature’s butter,” Joseph says. “It’s smooth and creamy. I love that it’s savory.” The Avocado toast ($3) starts with a slice of whole-wheat bread from nearby The Angry Baker in Olde Towne East. Then, she adds about a fourth of a smashed avocado, micro kale and red pepper flakes for a touch of heat. If you want more sweet than savory, go for the Banana Almond Butter ($3) with house-made almond butter, banana slices, cacao nibs and cinnamon. “It’s smooth, sweet and crunchy.” Joseph says. “It’s an awesome texture experience.” alchemyjuicecafe.com

S coop | coming soon

round of appaws

Jonathon Sawyer, chef and owner of Noodlecat

Chef Jonathon Sawyer talks plans for a Columbus version of his spin on a ramen shop.

Story by beth stallings

onathon Sawyer is a tease. For years it seems the Cleveland chef has been taunting Columbus diners with hints of a southern expansion: He did a pop-up at Double Happiness; he partners with Middle West Spirits on a line of culinary vinegars; rumors have long flown about which empty spaces he’d toured. But in January, the James Beard award nominee finally confirmed what we all knew was inevitable: He’s coming to Columbus, and he’s bringing his funky, sustainable ramen shop, Noodlecat, with him. “We’ve had an eye on Columbus for a very long time,” says Sawyer, who also owns The Greenhouse Tavern and Trentina, both in Cleveland. Exactly when and where Noodlecat will open is up in the air. “We’re looking for something small with tons of commercial traffic,” he says, adding he hopes to have the shop open by the start of 2016 at the latest. While we await further news, Sawyer talks about the vision behind Noodlecat and how the local version—complete with its noodleslurping cartoon cat mascot—will have a flavor all its own. noodlecat.com What can you tell us about the new location? We’re in the bargaining state [on a space]. I also don’t want to close the door to any opportunities. Nothing precludes us from doing one near Campus and one near Easton, here and there. I think that’s what I’ve always been envious of Columbus for. You can get everywhere in 20 minutes.

American ramen than it is Japanese. It is a mashup. We’re as much Tokyo as we could be, seeing as we are sourcing everything from our backyard.

So you never intended for it to be a traditional ramen shop? Noodlecat is really more of an

What will be different at the Columbus Noodlecat? I am trying to identify, as we

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So you’ll be creating a whole new menu? I think overall Noodlecat is going to have an overhaul, in its flagship and Columbus. There’s a story we are weaving with the broth—the broth pots at Noodlecat have never been turned off. Two of our stocks have been running nonstop, seven days a week, 24 hours, since we started. There is some 5-year-old broth in every ramen that goes out the door. It’s a mixture of beef tendon, pork knuckle, ham hock and chicken wing tips. The mother is very, very flavorful.

Photo: courtesy jonathon Sawyer

You opened Noodlecat in Cleveland in 2011, before the ramen boom hit. What made you want to open a ramen shop in the first place? When Amelia (his wife) and I moved from New York to Cleveland, we missed that affordable ramen. We thought, “We should open a fun, fast, delicious ramen shop.” Not too serious, just enough Noodlecat to be what Rai Rai Ken (a Tokyo-style ramen shop in the East Village) was for us.

Sourcing ingredients within 100 miles of your location has long been your philosophy. Will opening a restaurant a few hundred miles south mean finding new purveyors? I think it’s a little bit of both. It allows us to expand our purchase parameters just south of Cleveland. It will allow some of our Cleveland vendors to expand their threshold. We have to have one degree of separation. I have to know the farmer. I have to be on the kill floor before it gets to our door. Columbus is about 100 miles away from the one mill I really hope works out (to supply flour for Noodlecat’s house-made noodles). That’s the most exciting part.

personalize these menus for the city, to find a Columbus tradition. For Cleveland, we’ve got three or four things that go on and off the Noodlecat menu. We do brisket ramen, we do fried chicken ramen, Lake Erie perch ramen. Those three are very near and dear. We are looking for, ‘What is the Lake Erie perch of Columbus?’ That’s going to be the fun part.

Noodlecat at a glance The original Noodlecat menu is a mishmash of traditional Japanese with an American flair using locally sourced and seasonal ingredients. “It is not a Japanese or Tokyo ramen shop,” Sawyer says. “It’s a very adapted-to-itsterroir ramen shop. There’s reverence for tradition while still maintaining an American tradition.” In addition to salads and steam buns, diners will find dashi and shio ramen, udon and soba bowls next to regional inventions like Buttermilk Fried Chicken & Ramen with maple, hot sauce and fried chicken skin miso broth. The Noodlecat attitude: “Have fun and let the ramen have fun,” Sawyer says. Sawyer’s typical Noodlecat order: A full-size Pork Miso Ramen, with crispy garlic, sesame, scallion, a six-minute egg and miso broth, and a sub of tofu for pork. “If I’m really hungry, I’ll add on a Super Salad,” he says of the dish that includes adzuki bean, curly kale, blueberries, green tea granola, avocado, citrus and ancient grain.

Is it possible we could see more than one Noodlecat here? In a perfect world, we’d have Noodlecat in Cincinnati and Ann Arbor. And, yes, more in Columbus. There’s something really basic about what we do that is adaptable to every city. If every restaurateur could take the approach that we are going to put money back into these local ecosystems, if everybody was pouring money back into their backyards … that’s what we do and a lot of people do really well.

Photo: bridget m. rehner

Will the Columbus location have the same playful feel as the Cleveland shop? We’re going to use the same designer, but I want to have more noodles on display, more broths boiled on display like a lot of the soba and udon shops in Tokyo. Seeing it there is a vote of confidence for the kitchen. I think that’s a really awesome way to greet guests. Why is Noodlecat the concept you chose to bring here? I have the want for a concept in Columbus that is unique to Columbus. The real estate hasn’t come out in the time that I hoped. We have an operator now who was with Cameron [Mitchell] for a long time. She’s found locations, two of them, that we really like. Our growth is very slow and deliberate, and we adapt the marketplace really well. We’re never rushing into anything.

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Scoop | events

89 Fish & Grill

Restaurant Guide Launch Party Tuesday, Oct. 14 Ph otos by jodi m i ller

On a cold and rainy day in October, there was nowhere else we would rather have been but inside cozy 89 Fish & Grill. The seafood-centric Downtown restaurant helped us celebrate the release of Crave’s annual Restaurant Guide—a special keeper issue featuring more than 1,000 restaurants around town. The dozens of readers in attendance were treated to specialty seafood fare while sipping on cocktails created just for the evening.

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WAS A WARM-UP

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Scoop | events

The Refectory

Crave Reader Party Wednesday, Oct. 29 Ph otos by Jodi M i ller

We celebrated our annual Crave 10 issue in style with perennial top 10 restaurant The Refectory, which held the No. 4 spot this year. The French bistro opened its choir room for an intimate gathering of more than 50 Crave readers, chefs and restaurateurs. Chef Richard Blondin crafted beautiful one-bite appetizers (it’s no surprise they went fast) that paired well with wine and specialty cocktails featuring Jack Daniels whiskey. 3 8 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

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Subscribe or renew your annual subscription to Columbus Monthly for $18*. Your subscription includes 4 FREE issues of and as well as the annual Crave Restaurant Guide. Go to columbusmonthly.com or call 877-688-8009 to subscribe. *Subscriptions are subject to applicable sales tax.

Scoop | events

Gallerie Bar & Bistro

James Beard Celebrity Chef Tour Wednesday, Dec. 10 Ph otos by catheri n e m u rray

For the second year, Gallerie Bar & Bistro brought the storied James Beard House to the Midwest. The six-course dinner, which kicked off with Watershed cocktails made by Travis Owens of Curio, featured culinary heavy-hitters from three states, including Jonathon Sawyer of Greenhouse Tavern in Cleveland, Garrett Lipar of Torino in Detroit and Richard DeShantz of Meat & Potatoes in Pittsburgh. Chefs Bill Glover of Gallerie and Spencer Boudros of Pistacia Vera represented our city well with a decadent foie gras course and a dessert of chocolate feuilletine, respectively, at the traveling dinner series that benefits the James Beard Foundation. 4 0 â&#x20AC;˘ C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM â&#x20AC;˘ s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

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Calendar spring 2015 march

First Wednesday Wine Dinner

Wednesday Originals

Souper Heroes: Kids in Harmony

The Worthington Inn On the first Wednesday of every month, The Worthington Inn offers a four-course dinner with wine pairings. Advance tickets are $65 per person. worthingtoninn.com

Participating Dine Originals restaurants Columbus restaurants offer special dining experiences the first Wednesday of each month, ranging from tastings to themed wine dinners. dineoriginalscolumbus.com

Zauber Brewing This free, potluck-style gathering showcases homemade soups. This event will feature parent-kid soup-making teams. nochefsallowed.com

Cooking Class: Tacos with a Twist

100-Point Beer Tasting & Pairing

Fairytale Luncheon

Sunday Assemblies with the CSO

The Hills Market Worthington This themed class includes take-home recipes, dinner and three glasses of wine. The event starts at 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $45. thehillsmarket.com

Spagio This dinner will feature three courses and five to eight hand-picked craft beers, available individually or as part of a flight. Reservations are required. spagio.com

Columbus Zoo & Aquarium Enjoy a catered lunch and a performance of “Sleeping Beauty” by Columbus Children’s Theatre. Tickets are $30 for zoo members and $40 for nonmembers. columbuszoo.org

Mozart’s Bakery and Piano Cafe Enjoy light refreshments from the Mozart’s kitchen while listening to a small ensemble of musicians from the Columbus Symphony Orchestra. mozartscafe.com 4 2 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

Cooking Class: Mastering the Grill

The Hills Market Worthington This themed class includes recipes, dinner and three glasses of wine. The event starts at 6:30 p.m. Tickets are $45. thehillsmarket.com

A World of Red & White Wine Blends wine dinner

Photo: courtesy of matthew heaggans

Spagio Spagio’s monthly wine dinners feature five courses with five wine pairings. Dinner is at 7 p.m. Reservations are required. spagio.com

Adventures in Wine: Cotes du Rhone

The Hills Market Worthington One Thursday every month, wine director Jan Wilson is joined by a guest expert in presenting six wines and six small plates. Reservations are required. Tickets are $50 per person, plus tax. thehillsmarket.com

march

20 Challah! chef Catie Randazzo took home the first Columbus Knife Fight Club title in 2014.

Columbus Knife Fight Club

At The Commissary on March 20, two local chefs will test their skills in a head-to-head competition at the latest installment of the Columbus Knife Fight Club. The competitors, Brooke Kinsey of Bleu & Fig Catering and Steve Redzinak of Sophie’s Gourmet Pierogi, will have an hour to build scratch dishes from a mystery pantry provided by Gordon Food Service. The reward: bragging rights. The judges and event organizers—Catie Randazzo (Challah!), Matthew Heaggans (formerly of Swoop! Food Group) and Kate Djupe (The Commissary)—have taken inspiration from Food Network shows like “Chopped” and “Iron Chef.” “It’s really just a great chance for chefs to get together and show their skill sets,” Randazzo says. “It’s also a great way for them

to experiment in styles outside of what they may be known for doing.” Randazzo is also planning a pre-show face-off between local bartenders from spots like Curio and The Sycamore, she says. The bartenders will remain on hand during the event to mix cocktails for guests, and several local food trucks are also expected to set up shop. Event tickets are available on The Commissary website for $10. Another event is already in the works for April, Randazzo says, featuring guest judge Simon Majumdar of Food Network’s “Cutthroat Kitchen.” Eventually, Randazzo hopes to host a March Madness-style tournament featuring all of the Knife Fight Club winners to date. thecommissarycolumbus.com —Anthony Dominic

Join us in celebrating 60 years with cocktails through the decades. 1955-2015

thetopsteakhouse.com 614.231.8238 2891 East Main Street, Columbus s p r i n g 2 0 1 5 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • 4 3

april

First Wednesday Wine Dinner

Wednesday Originals

Souper Heroes: Smokin’ Soups

The Fantastic Wines of France

The Worthington Inn On the first Wednesday of every month, The Worthington Inn offers a four-course dinner with wine pairings. Advance tickets are $65 per person. worthingtoninn.com

Participating Dine Originals Columbus restaurants offer special dining experiences the first Wednesday of each month, ranging from tastings to themed wine dinners. dineoriginalscolumbus.com

Location TBD This free, potluck-style gathering showcases homemade soups. This event will feature the team from ManBQue Columbus. nochefsallowed.com

Spagio Spagio’s monthly wine dinners feature five courses with five wine pairings. Dinner is at 7 p.m. Reservations are required. spagio.com

Wild Crush Wine Opener

Moonlight Market

Frank Family Winery Dinner

Walter Commons at St. Charles Preparatory School Sample international and domestic wines alongside hors d’oeuvres made by area restaurants at this fundraiser benefiting the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation. The event starts at 6:30 p.m. for VIP ticket holders ($125) and 7 p.m. for general admission ticket holders ($75). cff.org

Gay Street, between High and Third streets Starting at 6 p.m. the second Saturday of every month, dozens of local vendors line Gay Street for an evening of shopping under the stars. moonlightmarketcolumbus.com

Spagio This dinner event will showcase the portfolio of this tiny Napa Valley winery specializing in cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and zinfandel. Reservations are required. spagio.com 4 4 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

e a t 23

Adventures in Wine: Ace of Spain

d r i n k

EXTRAORDINARILY UNIQUE

Italian Liberation Day Smackdown

The Hills Market Worthington Twelve wines by Domaine Select Wine Estates and Vias Imports Ltd. will be served along with light hors d’oeuvres. The event runs from 6 to 8 p.m. Tickets are $35. Reservations required. thehillsmarket.com

may

First Wednesday Wine Dinner

Wednesday Originals

Souper Heroes: Grand Finale

Chemistry of Cooking

The Worthington Inn On the first Wednesday of every month, The Worthington Inn offers a four-course dinner with wine pairings. Advance tickets are $65 per person. worthingtoninn.com

Participating Dine Originals Columbus restaurants offer special dining experiences the first Wednesday of each month, ranging from tastings to themed wine dinners. dineoriginalscolumbus.com

Location TBD This free, potluck-style gathering showcases homemade soups. This event will close the Souper Heroes season. nochefsallowed.com

COSI Get hands-on in COSI’s test kitchen during this adults-only event. Concessions and a cash bar will also be available. cosi.org

The Mothers that Made Wine Country

Spagio Spagio’s wine dinners feature five courses with five wine pairings. Dinner is at 7 p.m. Reservations are required. spagio.com

15 E Winter St • Delaware, OH 43015 740.417.4074 • veritastavern.com

OVER 50 YEARS IN BUSINESS 1961 - PRESENT

Taste of Dine Originals

Moonlight Market

Capital University Field House This fundraiser will feature tastings from participating Dine Originals Columbus restaurants, as well as wine, cocktails and a silent auction. dineoriginalscolumbus.com

PIZZA, PASTA, SUBS & SALADS Enjoy our Gourmet Pizzas Gluten Free

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Open 7 days a week O 747 E. Lincoln Ave.• Columbus, Ohio 43229

(614) 885-3121

The Kitchen Treat Mom to a light wellness workout followed by brunch. The event, featuring instructors from Yoga on High, runs 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Tickets are $35 per person. thekitchencolumbus.com

Winner of numerous awards!

th Co is mi Sp ng rin g

www.pizzahousecolumbus.com

Sekoia Yoga Mother’s Day Brunch

Apron Gala

Cakebread wine dinner

Salmon Roast

Adventures in Wine: Thrill of the Grill

North Market Enjoy food and drink samples from market merchants at this festival, the North Market’s biggest fundraiser. northmarket.com

Spagio This dinner event will showcase the portfolio of Napa Valley-based Cakebread Cellars. Reservations are required. spagio.com

The Hills Market Worthington More than 1,000 pounds of salmon will be grilled for sandwiches at this outdoor cookout. Roasted portobello and provolone sandwiches will be available for vegetarians. Additionally, ice cream, coleslaw, hot dogs, chips, cookies, wine and beer will also be offered. The Winchester Steel Co. will provide music. The event runs from 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. No reservations required. thehillsmarket.com

Culinary Crafts Done Right!

8745 Sancus Blvd. Columbus, Ohio 43240

www.thecaskandbarrelpolaris.com 4 6 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

速

WHATEVER THE OCCASSION...

Basic delivery and set-up or the full-service experience.

www.citybbq.com/catering

Be Rewarded for... s Come join u

Casella Winery

Roxford Park

W ine Tastin

Homemade with love

O P E N I N G DA I LY

Friday, March 20th See you in the Spring!

1039 ROXFORD D CHURCH RD RD., DENNISON, DEN NNISON OH OH 44621 4 330-440-7444 WWW.CASELLAWINERY.COM Kennedy Vineyard is locally-owned and operated on a 10-acre farm outside New Madison, Ohio. Come enjoy one of our many wines in a relaxed atmosphere of our tasting room. We offer tastings, wine by the glass, or enjoy a bottle with friends as you overlook the vineyard. We strive to make every visit your best visit with a smile served with every glass. Like us on Facebook and look for our event calendar for bands, festivals, and special cial events.

3911 State Route 722 New Madison, Ohio 45346 (937) 273-8381 www.kennedy-vineyard.com WINTER HOURS: Fri: 4 pm - 9pm • Sat: 4pm - 10 pm SUMMER HOURS: Thursday: 6 pm -9 pm • Friday: 2 pm - 9 pm Saturday 2pm - 10pm

29 9 North h SSmith i h Street S Dellroy, Ohio 44620 (330)-735-1061 www.al-biwinery.com Hours: Thurs-Fri 5-8 p.m. • Sat 2-9 p.m. Buckeye Lake Winery is a casual but elegant restaurant and winery that pairs simple foods with premium wines. Buckeye Lake Winery is committed to producing premium wine by bringing the Napa Valley experience home and creating an atmosphere of relaxation and recreation on the waters at Buckeye Lake. We are the perfect setting for a Corporate Event, Party, or Wedding.

Visit www.buckeyelakewinery.com or call 740-246-5665 for upcoming events, entertainment and reservations.

ICE WINE FESTIVAL SATURDAY, MARCH 7TH, 14TH, 21ST NOON – 5:00 P.M.

The Wineries of the Grand River Valley welcome you to our 12th Annual Ice Wine Festival. Participating wineries include: Debonné Vineyards, Ferrante Winery & Ristorante, Grand River Cellars Winery and Restaurant, Laurello Vineyards, & St. Joseph Vineyards. Patrons will visit each of the participating wineries and sample their Ice Wine along with a complimentary appetizer. Many of the wineries will also have a featured event including ice carving, jewelry shows, dog sledding & much more. Cost is $6 at each winery, which includes wine samples, an ice wine glass at each winery, appetizer and special events. (Bring in a canned food item to help support our local food banks and receive $1 off per person.)

CALL 440-466-3485 FOR MORE INFORMATION.

Become an Ohio Wines VIP today! See the list of participating wineries and sign up at ohiowinesVIP.com

Visiting Ohio’s Wineries GERVASI VINEYARD Be Transported! This Tuscan-inspired winery includes an Italian bistro, casual eatery, cozy gift shop, and luxurious inn. Beautifully landscaped and nestled around a tranquil lake, an extraordinary setting for the ultimate getaway experience. 1700 55th Street NE, Canton, OH 44721 330.497.1000 gervasivineyard.com

The Wishmaker House Winery and Wine Bar is the perfect place for a weekend getaway! Located approximately 45 minutes north of Columbus, the Wishmaker House features 12 wines made in house, as well as wines and craft beers from around the world. Our kitchen prepares fresh local and seasonal cuisine to pair with our delicious wines, Thursday-Saturday 4-10pm. The on-site 8 room bed and breakfast was recently voted “Best B&B in Ohio” by the readers of Ohio Magazine.

Georgetown Vineyards is family-owned and operated and specializes in a varied selection of award-winning wines, from dry California styles to sweet Ohio varietals.

Visit us at www.georgetownvineyards.com and order 3 or more bottles, and shipping is free! Find us on Facebook! /gvineyards Follow us on Twitter! @gvineyards WEDNESDAY - 4:00 TO 9:00 Special half price on all appetizers with wine purchase. Lots of fun!

FRIDAY - 4:00 TO 9:00 Relax with some wine & appetizers.

SATURDAY- 3:00 TO 9:00 Special events & live entertainment, on selected Saturdays! Call for more information.

Available for Private Bookings! Visit us at: www.vineyard22winery.com for our most up-to-date event’s calendar.

wishmakerhouse.com • 419-886-WINE!

Vineyard 22 Winery • Cadiz, Ohio 44620

TasteOhioWines.com | www.OhioWinesVip.com

Be Rewarded for Visiting Ohio’s Wineries

“The wine speaks for itself” (440) 593-3197 • markko@suite224.net

We look forward to seeing you!

Old Firehouse Winery

2012 Purple Trillium $2799

This is a Pauillac style Bordeaux blend consisting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.The color of the wine is dark ruby with intense, ripe, raspberry fruit and green olive aromas that open up while airing in the glass. This wine has forward, rich, plush, cedary, spicy, red currant flavors with great depth and structure. This wine is aged mostly in new American oak from Kentucky and Minnesota. Enjoyable to drink now, though will benefit with several more years of bottle aging.

Come visit the biggest little winery in Ohio! Vist our website for hours and events at www.canavalleywinery.com.

The Great Lake’s largest lakefront winery and restaurant overlooking the Lake Erie shoreline in this resort Village’s first fire station. Firehouse is renowned for its award winning wines made on premises, it’s large meandering patio, and nightly music in summer. Located in “Wine & Vine Trails” wine country in the resort town of Geneva-on-the-Lake. Open 7 days year round.

5499 LAKE ROAD E. GENEVA-ON-THE-LAKE, OH 44041

513.522.4203 burnetridge.com

1-800-UNCORK-1 oldfirehousewinery.com

A li llittle litt itt ttlle le taste tas astte te of of It IItaly Ital tal aly ly lo llocated loca oca c teed in the he heart hea e rt ooff Be B Berlin erl rlin in C Center, entter en ter, r, Ohio. Ohi hio. hio o.

Mastropietro Winery Inc, established in 2005, with its Tuscan flare brings a unique experience to our community. Fourteen acres of woodland, vineyards and a lake with a western view encompassing beautiful sunsets, enhances your destination experience

Please visit MastropietroWinery.com for our hours and calendar of music and events. We are located at 14558 Ellsworth Road, Berlin Center Ohio 44401 Phone: 330-547-2151

TasteOhioWines.com | www.OhioWinesVip.com

table talk dining district Cincinnati’s Over-the-Rhine neighborhood may be a little rough around the edges, but it’s rich with history and hip spots to eat and drink. Sto ry by g.a. bento n Ph otos by jodi m i ller

The transformation of an infamous Cincinnati crime zone into one of the hippest dining strips in Ohio is an amazing narrative. It’s a tale of accidental architectural preservation through abandonment and neglect. It’s a saga of recapturing an all-but-forgotten past to design a better future. It’s the story of Over-the-Rhine. Boasting more than 900 registered structures, OTR is arguably (speculated by many, but not officially confirmed) the largest untampered historic district in the United States. With its dilapidated Italianate buildings (many Civil War-era) being slowly but surely restored, OTR—a pre-Prohibition German immigrant and brewery stronghold—is beginning a brilliant new chapter.

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table talk | road trip

Salazar (left), The Eagle (center) and Senate (right)

Its renovations are stunning. In small pockets, OTR’s ornate and eccentric edifices painted in eye-popping colors hunch together in fanciful, storybook-type cityscapes. Several sport delightful murals (OTR has a thriving art scene). Many have become sophisticated, fun and wildly popular bars and restaurants. Salazar is one of the best. Named for talented chef-owner Jose Salazar—who, in NYC, was an extern at stellar JeanGeorges and joined chef Thomas Keller’s opening team at superior Per Se and Bouchon Bakery—the restaurant is an exciting 42-seater. Just as its setting blends elegant silver tree-branch wallpaper with steampunk-like light fixtures, Salazar’s cuisine is refined yet assertive (and ditto for its creative cocktails and enticing wines).

Salazar’s edgy, local-focused, multinational and surprisingly affordable menu varies seasonally, but some perennial favorites ($5 to $6) include: crispy-yetcreamy fried oyster sliders with kimchi, aioli and local radish greens; pimentonsmoked and crinkly dark-fried Brussels sprouts with a frothy and tangy yuzu emulsion; and blistered shishito peppers with a bright sambal-peanut vinaigrette and bonito flakes. A short stroll around the block leads to Senate, a hot dog joint with white cloth napkins, a maitre d’ and waiters who knowingly expound on this restaurant’s sourcing, craft cocktails and fancy beers. Like most OTR rehabs, it’s long, narrow, suave, endowed with vintage brick walls and often packed to its handsome rafters.

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Rich and crisp duck fat fries cooked with rosemary and garlic ($6) make a terrific accompaniment for the mammoth and outstanding Korean dog (juicy shortrib meat and homemade kimchi play off quick pickles and a fantastic butterflied and grilled wiener, $11). Also on hand: crispy fried pig tails, lobster BLTs and one of “America’s Ten Best Hot Dogs,” according to Forbes—the Croque Madame with bechamel, poached egg and ham. Only steps away is The Eagle, the best contemporary fried chicken eatery in the state. Locals will wait hours to enter its rowdy blues-juiced, rustically chic space— which bears splendid echoes of its former identity as an old post office. (The Eagle takes its name from the postal service logo.) There’s an ocean of beers and deservedly

Check out our exciting

WEEKDAY SPECIALS!

famous bloody marys ($9 for a spicy stein) but, most importantly, the chicken is amazing ($9 for a half-bird). Encasing its tender and juicy meat is a thin, crispy, peppery and nuanced crust bearing flavorcharged notes of herbs and spices. Bold seasoning with a zingy edge also characterizes $4 sides like must-have tangy cheese grits and uncommonly dynamic succotash. For something sweet, try the Spoonbread (kernel-pocked cornbread) and irresistibly crusted sweet potatoes with baby marshmallows. For something sweeter, you can’t beat nearby Holtman’s Donuts. They’re all fabulous, but try the bacon-maple, apple fritter and red velvet with cream cheese frosting. A visit to rambling Findlay Market (circa 1852, it’s Ohio’s oldest municipal market) s p r i n g 2 0 1 5 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • 5 3

table talk | road trip

Holtmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Donuts (above), Rhinegeist Brewery (middle) and Jappâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Since 1879 (bottom left) are just a few gems to discover in the once-rough Over-the-Rhine neighborhood.

When You Go The Eagle OTR, 1332 Vine St., Cincinnati, 513-381-0903, facebook.com/theeagleotr Findlay Market, 1801 Race St., Cincinnati, 513-665-4839, findlaymarket.org

5240 Cemetery Rd, Hilliard 614-529-1198 | StarlinerDiner.com

Holtman’s Donuts, 1342 Vine St., 513-802-5007, holtmansdonutshop.com Japp’s Since 1879, 1136 Main St., Cincinnati, 513-381-1524, japps1879.com

COLUMBUS MONTHLY READERS’ CHOICE FOR BEST DINER 2012, 2013, 2014!

Salazar, 1401 Republic St., Cincinnati, 513-6217000, salazarcincinnati.com Senate, 1212 Vine St., Cincinnati, 513-421-2020, senatepub.com Rhinegeist Brewery, 1910 Elm St., Cincinnati, 513-381-1367, rhinegeist.com

is a must. Check out the tempting array of homemade sausages at Kroeger & Son’s Meats, house-made goetta (think scrapple, but better) from Gramma Debbie’s Kitchen, plus myriad European cheeses and 40 olive varieties at Silverglades (open since 1922). About a block away is Rhinegeist Brewery. Situated in an old (circa 1895) beer bottling plant, it’s a brick leviathan and party-time playground so gargantuan that, among communal seating, pingpong tables and enormous artworks, indoor wiffle ball league games are played. There’s also a duskier bar area with TVs, classic rock and about a dozen of Rhinegeist’s 40 beer styles on tap. Your recommended $8 to $10 flight might include Ink (a dark-fruity imperial stout) or Saison Blue (made with wheat from great local bakery Blue Oven). For something stiffer, head to Japp’s Since 1879. As its title relates, Japp’s has been around a while—but it used to be a salon and wig shop. Now it’s a killer cocktail bar with elaborate weekly drinks and an uproarious, vintage-wig-store ambiance. Yeah, Over-the Rhine is still rough around the edges. But places like these—and a new streetcar system (set to open autumn 2016) connecting it to nearby Downtown— demonstrate its amazing story is still being written. G.A. Benton is a Columbus-based food critic for Columbus Alive and The Columbus Dispatch.

Introducin ng

On the 3rd fl flooor at Brews Café in Granvill nvillle

Meediterrranean Cuiisine

Opeen Thu ursday y – Satturday y for diinner Menu changees dailly • Op pen forr priva ate eveents Call for reservatioons & detaills 116 E. Broadw way, Gra anville, OH • 7440-587-10017 • brrewscafe.com m Located d in Dow wntown Granvillle Just 15 minutes from m the outer beelt

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table talk | breakfast

Bagels are proofed overnight at Sammy’s Bagels’ in Bexley.

Bagels, Big-Apple Style Sam Pullano of Sammy’s Bagels spills the secrets of his classic water bagels. Story by nicholas dekker

age years running deliveries for Manhattan’s Jumbo Bagels, where he learned the process of making bagels before opening his first shops in New Jersey and New York in 1992 (he sold them in 2000). Friends in Ohio led him here. He opened an Italian restaurant in Athens in the early 1990s and, even then, moving to the state capital was on his radar. “Columbus has a great food taste,” he says. “You can get anything. There’s a reason why it’s a test market.” What he saw in Columbus was room for more bagels. He opened his first local stores in 1994, the busiest of which sat at James Road and Broad Street until 2008. Over the years as his wholesale accounts, including Ohio State and

Nationwide, eclipsed retail sales, he closed his shops. Now, bagel production never stops. Pullano’s bagel-making is a mix of handcraftsmanship and big machinery. Bagels are mixed in 100-pound batches and then transferred by hand to machines that divide and wrap the dough into the familiar doughnut shape. The machines form nearly 1,500 bagels per hour, with weekly production topping 60,000 to 75,000 bagels in 25 varieties. Bakers lay bagels on boards for proofing and overnight chilling. True New York bagels, or water bagels, are boiled in a kettle before hitting the oven. “It’s considered a sacrilege to skip it,” Pullano says with a laugh, adding most New York bakeries still boil their bagels, which produces a shinier, crispier exterior and

Visit sammysbagels.net or call 614-252-1551. Place orders by 3 p.m. for next-day delivery, or by 3 p.m. Friday for weekend delivery. The minimum order is $10 (13 bagels), and first-timers get three free bagels.

want to bring bagels to your door?

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Photos: Tim Johnson

t’s like bagel magic: Fill out a form online, and the next morning a tightly stapled brown paper bag is delivered to your front door. Stuck to it is a white sheet of paper announcing the contents: a baker’s dozen of assorted fresh bagels, from egg to everything, marbled rye to cinnamon crunch. Even if you’ve never ordered home delivery, you’ve likely tried Sammy’s Bagels. You’ll find these New York-style bagels at eateries and coffee shops around town, including Katzinger’s and Stauf’s. Whether you know it or not, you’ve probably been enjoying true New York-style bagels. Sam Pullano—the Sam behind the Sammy—is an experienced bagel maker. The Teaneck, New Jersey, native spent his teen-

Villa Nova

Ristorante, Pizzeria & Bar

Sam’s Sampler Sam Pullano on his favorite Sammy’s Bagels Plain: Keep it basic. The plain bagel is a good start for sandwiches or as a blank slate for sweet or savory cream cheese. Blueberry: A good example of Sammy’s sweet bagels. Pullano rolls dried blueberries into the dough, and they’re great with his blueberry or cinnamon raisin walnut spread. Asiago Cheese: Pullano bakes the more pungent bagels like Asiago, onion and everything in a separate oven. The strong Asiago is nicely complemented by soft butter or Sammy’s veggie cream cheese. Everything: It’s the New York classic, covered in salt, garlic and onion, plus sesame, poppy and caraway seeds. Great as a sandwich base, even better coated with Sammy’s Nova lox spread.

Serving great food for over 30 years!

Open Daily at 11:00

Pizza • Pasta • Subs • Appetizers • Salads • dinners

5545 N. High St., Columbus

(614) 846-5777 • villanovacolumbus.com

a denser, chewier interior. Inside Pullano’s nondescript Bexley warehouse, bagels are boiled 300 at a time, after which they’re loaded onto wooden racks in groups of six and slipped into the oven. Two minutes later, they’re flipped upside down off the racks and baked for 12 minutes more. With his fleet of vans delivering bagels all over Central Ohio, it was easy for Pullano to add home delivery about four years ago. Today, he figures he does about 100 home deliveries a week. Pullano’s spreading the word through “neighborhood blitzes,” delivering free bagels to residents with notes on how to order more. He says once customers grasp the concept, they’re easily sold. “You wake up on a Saturday morning, and there’s bagels and cream cheese at your door,” he explains. “That’s gotta make you happy.” sammysbagels.net Nicholas Dekker blogs about breakfast at breakfastwithnick.com. His book, “Breakfast With Nick: Columbus,” is a complete guidebook to the morning meal.

PURCHASE TICKETS AT CAHS-PETS.ORG OR CALL 614.777.7387 EXT. 242 s p r i n g 2 0 1 5 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • 5 7

table talk | regular

jose martinez,61

BLT at Gallo’s Tap Room

regular at Gallo’s Tap Room Neighborhood Westerville Occupation Graphic artist and motorcycle riding instructor

A ‘Cheers’ Moment Story by Karina nova

hen Jose Martinez walks into Gallo’s Tap Room, he’s immediately greeted by friends, bartenders and other regulars who sit at the bar. It’s just like the sitcom “Cheers,” he jokes—everybody here knows his name. And if the people sitting at the bar don’t know Martinez, they soon will; this graphic artist isn’t shy. It’s this kind of friendly atmosphere that keeps him coming back. gallosfoodgroup.com What keeps you coming back? The food, staff, other customers—a small group of friends I meet with on Monday nights. It’s a comfort that I can be with friends. I come here tired, and I unwind. The friends I made here are close; we spent Thanksgiving and Christmas together. If someone’s not feeling well, we check up on them.

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What’s your favorite dish? Tough call! The pizza is good because you can get your slice any way you want it. But if I had to pick my favorite, I’d say the BLT. The bacon is excellent with lots of slices. If I get a BLT, other people around me will end up getting it. [I’ve] never had a bad meal. How is the waitstaff? [They are] fun, friendly, attentive. Dave

What’s it like here during a Buckeyes football game? It’s crazy on game day. We were here for the championship. The sound effects when they score are great, and they have a ton of TVs. If they don’t have an OSU game going on, you can watch anything and they’re flexible. At this point, they know what games we want to watch. Catch Karina Nova’s weekly Crave segments Saturday mornings on 10TV news HD.

Photo: will shilling

When did you discover Gallo’s? And how often do you go? About five to six years ago, I started an evening part-time job at the Micro Center store next door. Now I come here at least once a week and sometimes four times a week. When I don’t come in for a while, like when I went on vacation, they say, “Where have you been?”

[Koenig], the chef, is great at making sure food is to our liking.

table talk | ethnic eats

into africa

Haven’t yet taken the leap into African food? Its flavors are more familiar than you might think, and there’s no shortage of great eats in town. Story by bethia woolf

n the world of the culinary curious, there is a continent’s worth of food traditions that stand apart—a final frontier of dining that, for many routine consumers of sushi and pho, dosas and arepas, still seems a bit far out. It’s a cuisine too hard to find an entry point into, too obscure to get a handle on. I’m talking about Africa, and I’m eager to acquaint you with its flavors. Not only does Africa provide a variety of notable and worthwhile gastronomic experiences, but Columbus features an impressive array of African food. For those who have tasted the continent’s fare, odds are it’s been through Ethiopian food. When Blue Nile closed its location near Ohio State’s campus in 2013, many thought they took the cuisine with them. But to the east of town (within about a half-mile radius of Hamilton Road and Main Street), numerous Ethiopian restaurants, groceries and bakeries have thrived for years. Among these, an evening at the restaurant and bar known as Lalibela is delicious and unforgettable. Recently, a newcomer has inched closer to the center of the city. Opened September 2014 on Cleveland Avenue, Addis Restaurant brings Ethiopian to a part of town otherwise dominated by Somali restaurants (Addis owner Niman Hassan says Somalis actually make up a significant portion of his customer base). Fundamental to Ethiopian cuisine is injera—a light, spongy, pancake-shaped bread that bears the tangy flavor of the sourdough-like starter used in its making. Addis’ injera is about as good as it gets. It’s baked for them daily and serves as the physical foundation for almost every dish here. Pile atop it dishes like tibs, a spicy marinated beef-tip stew; kitfo, flavorful, rare ground beef cooked in spiced butter; and doro wot, a thick, savory mole-like sauce concealing a chicken leg and hardboiled egg. With all dishes, additional injera bread is provided and is traditionally used in lieu of utensils. If you can appreciate Ethiopian, Somali’s a cinch.

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Wycliff’s Kitchen

table manners Getting the most out of your experience Utensils: Most, but not all, restaurants have cutlery. But people in almost all African cultures eat with their hands instead, and sometimes an elaborate bowl and pitcher setup for washing hands is brought to the table prior to a meal. Garb: Particularly at restaurants that serve a Muslim customer base, it’s respectful to dress modestly. It’s ideal to avoid bare legs and to keep shoulders and cleavage covered. Goat: While goat is rarely eaten in the U.S., it’s a staple of many African cuisines. Set aside any preconceptions—its flavor is mild and pleasant (somewhere between beef and lamb). Most African preparations (usually braises or stews) yield tender meat. In the hands of people whose cultures have been working with goat for centuries, it’s delicious. Bones: Most meat preparations are served bone-in. This adds flavor (not unlike when making a stock) but makes eating a bit slower. Portions: Entree sizes are often unusually generous, and meats are piled high. Large portions of my meals often come home for leftovers, and they typically reheat well. Conversation: Menus are usually written by people for whom English is a second language and may not always accurately convey what you need to know. There’s also a higher-than-average chance there’s a daily special or two not listed anywhere. Think of ordering as a conversation; servers are usually more than happy to answer questions. Relax: The pace is slower, and ‘most everything is cooked to order. Most restaurants do far more takeout business than dine-in, so while the dining room could look empty, there may still be quite a few phone-in orders ahead of you.

DRINK UP < UP DOWN DOWN LEFT RIGHT LEFT RIGHT >

Photos: tim johnson

 Beef stew and pilaf with fried plantains at Wycliff’s Kitchen

Influenced by Italian, Middle Eastern, Indian and, yes, Ethiopian foods, its flavors are subtler than any of the aforementioned, yet equal in complexity. Somali dishes are also known for comforting aromatic qualities rather than assertive spicing. Spicy heat, should you want it, comes in the form of side sauces. Hoyo’s Kitchen is the reincarnation of the well-regarded Somali restaurant Solay

254 South 4th Street + 614-222-1616 + 16-BitBar.com

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table talk | ethnic eats

Mahbarawi combo plate at Addis Restaurant

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Fish Platter at Intercontinental Restaurant

Photos: Top, Tim Johnson; Left, Chris Russel; right, tessa berg

Chef Abdi Hashi at African Paradise

Bistro off state Route 161. In the transition, they’ve maintained the spirit and high quality of the original while improving service and adding a novel and convenient spin to the ordering process. Entrees are selected as either a plate (with a choice of two sides) or a bowl (choice of one side). Delicious tender goat or the meat and vegetable stew known as suqaar are among the recommended mains, and Hoyo’s exceptional range of sides are notable for including far more (and also more enticing) vegetable options than most Somali restaurants. Carb options include a variety of breads, wonderful, fragrant rice or pasta. African Paradise is quite possibly the longest-running Somali restaurant in the city, and with good reason. The food is consistently delicious, and the servers are happy to talk with the uninitiated at length about the menu. Complimentary soup is served to diners as an appetizer. Order the beef or chicken Kalankal or the KK (beef and tomato sauce mixed with jabati bread). Goat and rice is a popular dish, as at any Somali restaurant, but African Paradise offers a diverse selection of other proteins, too. Just to the south of Ethiopia and Somalia lies Kenya, and its local culinary representative is the gregarious and charming Wycliff Nduati of Wycliff’s Kitchen. As the son of a Kenyan restaurateur, Wycliff has been in the business since age 5. Under his watchful eye, the kitchen turns out recommended specials, such as karanga mbuzi—a rich and savory stew full of tender and mild pieces of goat—and its beef-based cousin, karanga ng’ombe. On the weekends, the menu expands to include nyama choma—smoky and nicely seasoned grilled beef—and mukimo, a mashed vegetable dish (in this case, potatoes and peas). All entrees come with the choice of two sides, and I particularly enjoyed kabeji (fried cabbage with onions) and pilau (seasoned rice). Now, let’s turn the focus to West Africa. Before we get into specifics, it’s worth noting the foods of the New World and West Africa have had a longstanding relationship, with each benefitting tremendously from the other. Black-eyed peas and okra came to us from West Africa, as did many of the food traditions that underpin Creole, Lowcountry and Caribbean cuisines. In the opposite direction, plantains, tomatoes and peanuts are among New World foodstuffs that have become staples in West Africa. In other words, odds are that as a result of this dynamic, you’ll find many familiar flavors. This interplay is in abundant evidence at Dabakh Restaurant, a Senegalese restaurant

TO GO!

When You Go

TASTE THE VARIETY. COUNT ON THE VALUE.

Addis Restaurant, 3750 Cleveland Ave., Northeast Side, 614-269-8680, facebook.com/addisrestaurant African Paradise Restaurant, 2263 Morse Road, Northeast Side, 614-476-2163 Dabakh Restaurant, 2225 Morse Road, Northeast Side, 614-473-9105, dabakhrestaurant.com Hoyo’s Kitchen, 5786 Emporium Square, Northeast Side, 614-899-8800

PERFECT FOR GRADUATIONS, SHOWERS, PICNICS, FAMILY OCCASIONS, CORPORATE PARTIES & MORE

1-877-BOB-EVANS BobEvans.com

Intercontinental Restaurant, 5777 Cleveland Ave., Northeast Side, 614-259-3951, facebook.com/intercontinentalrestaurant Lalibela Restaurant, 1111 S. Hamilton Road, East Side, 614-235-5355, lalibelarestaurant.net Wycliff’s Kitchen, 2492 Home Acre Drive, Northeast Side, 614-772-3461, facebook.com/wycliffskitchen

on Morse Road. Here you’ll find intriguing and satisfying dishes, such as maffe (lamb in a rich peanut, onion and tomato sauce served with rice), thiebou djeun (tender fish and vegetables served over a savory broken rice) and dibi (grilled lamb or goat with a Creole seasoning, served with a choice of side and an onion and vinegar garnish). At Intercontinental Restaurant, West African is served with a Nigerian spin. Favorites include moimoi (a labor-intensive black-eyed pea loaf spiked with chunks of hardboiled egg), egusi soup (spinach and melon seeds with scotch bonnet peppers) and plantains. Try the jollof rice (made with tomato and onion), which can be ordered with a variety of proteins and is the quintessential dish of West Africa. Occasional specials include suya (baked beef strips covered in chili powder and served on skewers) and puff puff (a mildly sweet fried dough conspicuously similar to a beignet). While I hope the above will serve as a good beginning reference, it’s far from comprehensive—I admit there are more African restaurants in town than I can keep up with. Generally, these eateries are casual neighborhood affairs, so if there’s one near you, that’s the place to start.

Bethia Woolf, owner of Columbus Food Adventures, blogs about Columbus’ ethnic dining scene at alteatscolumbus.com.

Brews Café Ranked #1 by RateBeer.com as Best Restaurant in Ohio for Beer Selection!

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The Hoppiest Place on Earth! Mon-Fri 3-6pm Specially priced beer, wine and cocktails Private Event Room and Catering Available 51 Drafts and countless bottles of hard to find Local & Craft brands Introducing Bourbon and Scotch Selections! 116 E. Broadway, Granville, OH • 740-587-0249 • brewscafe.com Located in Downtown Granville, Just 15 Minutes from the Outerbelt

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table talk | back of the house

AdamRoelle,35 Spirits Manager, Cavalier Distributing Past gigs: Before joining Cavalier in mid-2014, Roelle was the beer and spirits manager at Weiland’s Market, where he grew the spirits selection (including a bitters bar) into one of the best in the city. His secret? Regularly meeting with reps from the Division of Liquor Control. Roelle moved to Columbus after spending a decade bartending in Chicago.

quality control

Adam Roelle, spirits manager at aptly named Cavalier Distributing, is cracking Ohio’s antiquated liquor as told to anthony dominic laws one bottle of craft liquor at a time.

consumption of alcohol. We’re in the state where Prohibition started. Since the state is the controller of the sales of alcohol, they have a monopoly, and they’re allowed because that’s how it was set up after Prohibition. They make so much money off it—almost a billion dollars [annually]— there’s no way they’re ever going to want to give it up. And JobsOhio killed any chance of it being privatized from the inside out. JobsOhio bought the profits for spirits for like 30-some years. It’s not that [the state] doesn’t want to bring craft stuff in; it’s that they’re so used to doing business with Bacardi, Smirnoff and Jim Beam, and it’s been selling well for

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a very long time. They weren’t presented very often with this other stuff. They’re not against having quality. Bruce Stevenson, superintendent of Liquor Control, has even said so on record. The reason sales have been so strong is because we’ve started to see a shift from mass quantities to quality. They realize that. It’s just they’ve been very slow to get on it because there’s two people who determine what can and can’t be sold: Stevenson and Tom Kappa, the chief of operations. When you present a new product to the state, they’re the ones you talk to. It’s not their job to keep up on the trends; it’s their job to keep control of

Photo: meghan ralston

o clear something up: In Ohio, “distributors” are beer and wine. When dealing with any product above 21 percent [alcohol], we’re called brokers. We’re basically marketers, because the state handles distribution. We’re not buying product from the suppliers. If we purchase a pallet of beer, we pay for it, we hold onto it and we distribute it. When it comes to spirits, the supplier is paying to ship into the state, which is very expensive, and they don’t get paid until it leaves the [state] warehouse. This is why we don’t get as much product as we should. The state’s justification is controlling the

inventory and make sure the business is working as it should. Because it is a business and, like any business, it’s about inventory. Every brand out there, every cool label, they have a brand code, and that’s all those guys see—a code and the amount sold. It’s not, “Oh, this is really cool stuff, and you can’t make a Harvey Wallbanger without it.” It’s business, and I get that. But that’s why people are so fed up with liquor in Ohio, why so many people don’t even think, “Let me check to see if I can get the St. George absinthe in Ohio.” They think, “I’m just going to buy it online because liquor stores suck here.” There hasn’t been someone like myself hammering this stuff down their throat for the longest time. And the way the state says it—and they’ve been true to me on this—as long as there’s an on-premises need for [a product], and as long as they’re willing to buy it by the case if they have to, they’ll bring it in and sell it. By law, every single bar and restaurant has to buy their liquor from a state store. If they’re getting it from somewhere else, they can get shut down or lose their liquor license. So that’s where I come in. I hear all these places that want the same product, and I get them to fill out some form saying they will buy it by the case, and that makes it happen for everyone. It’s a real pain in the ass, and it takes a lot of time and it’s so unnecessary as far as real business should be run. If anybody ran a business the way the state runs this business, they’d be out of business. One of the first things I wanted to go for was Averna, an Italian amaro, one of those things like, “I can’t believe this isn’t here.” I worked with it in Chicago for years, and I knew a lot of people were looking for it here. All we had was Fernet-Branca—which is great, but people wanted more. Plus Hayman’s gin and Smith & Cross rum. Rum was in a horrible state in Ohio. When I was leaving Chicago about six years ago, you’d read about the rum renaissance and how great rum is. We just haven’t caught up to that trend yet—the reason being we didn’t have this stuff available to us. Not to toot my horn, but I’ve literally tripled the amount of good rum in Ohio in the last three months—Smith & Cross, Diplomatico, Scarlet Ibis. People love whiskey, but what they love about whiskey comes from a barrel; therefore, other things from a barrel, like rum, are going to appeal them to, too. It’s just an education thing, and we can do that.

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table talk | perfect pairings wine for

spring holidays

Ham and lamb are the traditional stars of spring holiday menus. What pairs best with them? We asked Donnie Austin, owner of House Wine in Worthington, for his picks. housewine.biz

Raise a Glass Best bets for ordering a great glass of wine By-the-glass choices are great ways to explore different kinds of wine. Restaurants balance two factors when shaping these lists: Cost (generally low) and variety (a good by-the-glass list covers a range of whites and reds). But sometimes spending a bit more on a glass can pay off. At Third & Hollywood, the list includes a $16 glass of 2012 Turley Old Vine zinfandel. “It’s a scary notion for a lot of people to pay $16 or $17 for a by-the-glass wine,” beverage coordinator Kevin Crowley says. “We feel we’re earning customers’ trust to the extent that we can put that on the list.” Try that Turley zin with a steak, and seek out these other by-the-glass winners from recent restaurant visits:

Juicy, medium-body red: Parducci pinot noir, $8.50

Ham

Explore Ohio Wineries:

Markko Vineyard, Conneaut

Arnie Esterer is the elder statesman of Ohio wine. He’s presided over Markko Vineyard since 1968, for many of those years with business partner Tim Hubbard, who died in 2000. Esterer’s chardonnay and riesling have a cult following inside and outside the state. If oaky, buttery California chardonnay is your only reference to that ubiquitous varietal, visit Markko to find out what the grape can truly achieve. The driveway to Markko is quite literally off the paved road and tucked in woods near Conneaut; it’s a charming, eccentric place that time seems to have forgotten. Buy as much as you can afford after your tasting. And when you leave, detour to Madison for a stop at Wet Your Whistle, one of the quirkiest and best wine shops in the state. markko.com

Seen at: Natalie’s, Worthington

Food-friendly red blend: Cline Cashmere, $10

Seen at: The Rossi Bar + Kitchen, Short North

Savory, serious red: Bethel Heights Estate pinot noir, $11 Seen at: Alana’s, north of Campus

Sparkling: Toso sparkling chardonnay, $9

Seen at: Till Dynamic Fare, Victorian Village

Words of Wine-dom

(n.) A euphemism that refers to the physical characteristics of wine as it cascades in rivulets down the interior of a glass that has been swirled or sipped. A wine’s “legs” can give you clues about the type of wine you’re drinking: A medium- to heavy-bodied wine will have more defined, lingering and even slightly syrupy legs. A lighter wine will have thinner legs that dissipate quickly. Example of correct usage: “This zinfandel has great legs,” Jim said, swirling his glass.

legs

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Leitz Dragonstone Rheingau Riesling ($19.99)

“Pairing aside, this is a single-vineyard riesling from an awesome German producer for under $20. Riesling and pork or ham always seem to sing and be a safe bet. The touch of sweetness in this wine is offset with some mouth-watering acidity that makes it very friendly with baked ham prepared in a variety of ways, from a spice rub or sweet glaze.”

Lamb

Lagier-Meredith Mount Veeder Syrah ($54.99)

“One of the best Syrahs from California hails from the home estate of Carole Meredith (UC Davis viticulture authority) and Steve Lagier (a former Mondavi winemaker). You’re getting California fruit with old-school, Old World vineyard and cellar practices. The blackberry fruit mingles with pepper, violets and a savoriness that are perfect with the flavor and leanness of lamb.

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feature | takeout

great takeout Don’t feel like dining in? No problem. We’ve got 65 ways to enjoy a restaurant-quality meal on the go.

Stories by G.A. Benton l Nicholas Dekker l anthony dominic l brad keefe l Jill Moorhead l jenny rogers l Kristen Schmidt l beth stallings l michelle sullivan l bethia woolf photos by will shilling

Ordering Key

# Walk in and order

Best to call ahead

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Packaging score from 1 (rather messy) to 5 (air-tight transfer)

Average wait time in 15-minute intervals

Delivery available

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feature | takeout Venezuelan Platter and Mix Empanada

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CENTRAL

Yum Ma Ma Moung at Nidas

Cravings Carryout Cafe

rive Dine & D

soup & sandwiches There’s some kind of magic involved in Matt and Lindsey Tewanger’s brioche. You might say the same for anything with that much butter, but it’s what really makes their sandwiches stand out. Soft and flaky, it’s the perfect sandwich book-end, especially in the savory Breakfast Roll ($8) and the Cravings Club ($8). Sandwiches come tightly wrapped and are best accompanied by a milk-chocolate pretzel cookie. The Italian Village cafe doesn’t offer much room for seating, but that’s for the best: It gives you a better chance to chat with the Tewangers while they prep your lunch. cravingscarryoutcafe.com 5

Too busy to sit down? Here are a few stay-in-your-car options that break free from the golden arches types. Chef O Nette Upper Arlington’s famed diner posts no menu outside, so come prepared to order or call in advance. Greasy diner fare doesn’t always travel well, so it’s best to stick with salads and cold sandwiches. chefonette.com

Firdous Express

The “express” part of this North Market vendor’s name is no joke—the time between ordering and walking away from the counter is rarely longer than two minutes. Admittedly, what you gain in time, you lose in interaction; don’t expect much small talk from employees, who are typically busy satisfying a line of customers. Steam trays hold a dozen or so entrees inspired by Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine. Moist, flavorful grilled chicken kebabs get raves, but pass on the sometimes-dry chicken shawarma. The Greek salad is crisp and dressed with tangy vinaigrette, and hummus is preternaturally smooth and creamy. The napkin dispenser near the cashier warns market wanderers that napkins are for Firdous customers only; this less-than-hospitable touch is the last impression you’ll have of Firdous before rushing off to find a table upstairs. firdousexpress. com 3

mediterranean / middle eastern

 Nida’s Thai on High

thai Though Nida’s Short North dining room is plush and welcoming, it can be challenging to snag a table, especially on weekend nights. Some items from Nida’s travel better than others. Go for curries loaded with coconut milk and broth, soups and stir El Arepazo fried dishes, which are packaged expertly in leak-proof containers. latin A tucked-away gem in Pearl Alley, this tiny Latin eatery Appetizers like chicken satay and the restaurant’s excellent pork is a popular lunchtime spot among many a Downtown worker— gyoza flop around a bit in boxes that sacrifice too much heat. especially during warmer months when the patio is perpetually Hiding deep on the menu is Nida’s positively healing Thai Noodle packed. It’s fast-paced, crowded and can get loud, so review Soup ($14), which is packaged in two parts for takeout: One the menu before stepping up to order at the counter. Still container is filled with beef broth redolent of garlic and can’t decide? Try the Venezuelan Platter ($11) for a little bit spices, complete with little meatballs and hunks of of everything, including dense fried plantains and fluffy beef, and another is filled with noodles and mung two-bite arepitas. Before you head out, order in hand, bean sprouts. Combine them at home for a be sure to ask for extra cilantro sauce. You’ll want meal at the right temperature, flavor and plenty of the tangy, creamy condiment for dipping, texture. thaionhigh.com 4 smearing and slathering. elarepazolatingrill.com while you’re here 5 Stock up on mini cupcakes at Kittie’s Ted’s Montana Grill or a beer at american Our love for Ted’s in the Arena Brown Bag Deli Hausfrau Haven. District and Dublin is two-fold. Yes, it’s a soup & sandwiches This corner deli has good spot for juicy bison burgers and been a German Village favorite since 1974 steaks topped with lemon butter. But and indeed packs to-go orders in brown paper it’s also one of the few chains that get bags. Before you order at the counter, scan the it, adhering to a sustainable mission no chalkboard menu, which features 16 standards matter how much the company grows. An and one daily special. The aptly named Village example of the latter: Takeaway containers Addiction ($7.50), grilled with smoked turkey, are made with recycled aluminum, and havarti and not-too-sweet cranberry mayonnaise, plastic-looking flatware is actually crafted has become the deli’s most popular sandwich, says from corn starch and tapioca (and is therefore manager Ali Thilavong. Don’t miss the ever-changing deli biodegradable). That means you can get your Avalon salads, like the chunky, smoky potato ($3.50 for a half-pint), bison burger ($16) with gruyere and bacon caramelized displayed in the glass case. At lunchtime, it’s packed but still onions to go without a side of Styrofoam. tedsmontanagrill.com speedy. To get your food even faster, go for dinner and grab a bottle 5 of wine or some craft beers, too. thebrownbaggv.com 4

Pho Asian Noodle Order pho from your car at this Vietnamese noodle shop on Lane Avenue and get a front row seat of the kitchen quickly assembling your order. (Just be careful not to spill.) phoasiannoodle.com Greek Express With light-up signs showcasing pita-laden combo meals, this gyro shop in a former KFC in Grandview (find shops in Powell and Polaris, too) puts its window to good use. The days of fried chicken aren’t missed when gyro salads and spinach feta pies are options. greekexpressfamily.com/ greekexpress Barbecue Shack One side is for ordering, the other is for pick-up at this Westerville parking lot barbecue joint. Order ahead or be prepared to wait in a nearby spot. (They’ll walk your pulled pork sandwich and supersweet baked beans to your car.) barbequeshack.net King Gryos The menu is an intersection of family recipes passed down to owner and native Greek Yanni Chalkias (think stuffed grape leaves and fried smelts) and Americanized dishes (like a juicy burger slathered in feta cheese). Bonus: You can order online. kinggyros.com

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feature | takeout

Mapo Tofu with minced pork, Tofu String Bean and Salted Fish Eggplant 7 2 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

NORTHEAST

O’Reilly’s Pub

pub grub This irreverent neighborhood fun-factory owned by Marty Calhoun for 31 years is more popular than ever. On weekends, it can get so slammed it’s tough to find a table.  Moy’s Chinese Restaurant So mosey up to the old wooden bar and order wonderful chinese For 25 years, husband-and-wife team Pok and pig-out grub, like great fries ($2) and one of the best Berlina Moy have been dishing Chinese cuisine from their tiny bacon-cheeseburgers in Columbus (Pepper Burger, Campus restaurant—a gem among the city’s ethnic $8.75); a killer grilled chicken sandwich with eateries to those in the know. Pok is a versatile incendiary “Scott’s style” wing sauce chef, particularly skilled in Sichuan traditions on the side ($7.25); or, if you enjoy a (think spicy, garlicky food). His string bean challenge, the insanely over-the-top while you’re here dishes are excellent; the chicken is always Use this time to grab Johnny’s Sub ($10.75). Your styro-boxed tender, and the tofu—some of the best dessert at neighboring food should be ready in about the time you’ll find in Columbus—is always firm and Buckeye Donuts. it takes to swallow a beer and a shot. crispy. Perhaps the most popular to-go order, 2822 N. High St., Old North, 614-262-6343 Berlina says, is the B.B.Q. Roast Pork Fried Rice

($10.95). All entrees are generously portioned, and most can be made vegetarian. 1994 N. High St., Campus, 614-297-7722 3

Yanni’s Greek Grill & Take Out

If you don’t live near Yanni’s, call in and place your order anyway. A trek from Grandview at first felt like too much for just a gyro platter and some chickenlemon soup, but upon arriving at the restaurant and joining the long line of hungry-yet-patient customers—many of whom were raving Yanni’s is the best Greek food in the city—the decision was justified. “If you’re looking for traditional stuff, go with the combo,” says Kosmas Minatsis, Yanni’s son. “It’s an all-day special that’s only available for takeout.” He suggests subs and sandwiches for quick walk-in orders and, for dinner, the large gyro combo ($6.95), Dolmathes (stuffed grape leaves, $7.95) and the soup ($3.25 for the shareable size). 6196 Cleveland Ave., Northeast Side, 614-890-4775

mediterranean/greek

 Helen’s Asian Kitchen

As an ex-strip club with mirrored walls and live opera solos, Helen’s ambience is as odd as it gets. But its Chinese food is about as good as it gets, too. Helen’s online menu is woefully uninformative, so peruse the photo-filled, big brown menu in person before ordering. It includes wildly delicious if tongue-numbing Sichuan wonders like Stir-Fried Cauliflower with Chili Oil ($11) and a dynamic pork belly preparation undersold as “Twice-Cooked Pork” ($11). If seeking something mild, Helen’s dumplings ($8.50) shine. Try the lovely and supple steamed pork or, for something more rare, soup-and-meat-filled Xiao Long Bun. helenasiankitchen. com 3

chinese

nds

i Freezer F

For the nights when it’s too late to get takeout or make dinner from scratch, keep these local foods on hand for a quick meal. weilandsmarket.com, thehillsmarket.com Harvest Pizza The fired pies from Harvest are touted as some of the best in the city. Their at-home versions are a close second. Find them in popular combos like Spicy Yuma at The Hills Market and Weiland’s. Starts at $12.99 Pierogi Mountain If you miss the Pierogi Mountain pop-up at Cafe Bourbon Street, you’re not out of luck. Weiland’s carries these homemade dumplings with playful stuffings, like Smoked Potato Cheddar and Gouda & Asparagus. $5.99 for six

Casa Hacienda Grill

Despite the size of the restaurant (quite big), it’s not easy to get to Casa Hacienda Grill; doing so involves a U-turn and a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it side street that runs parallel with Dublin-Granville Road just east of Interstate 71, more effort than some might take to grab Mexican takeout. But what the place lacks in convenience it makes up for in flavor, affordability and consistency. The restaurant boasts a menu of more dishes than you could try in a year, so stick with a hearty combination platter like the enchilada, taco and tostada ($11.95) or Tacos Mexicanos ($11.95), which travel well. casahaciendagrillcolumbus.com

mexican

Fortune Chinese Restaurant

chinese At Fortune, the food is as thrilling as the surroundings are drab. Good thing its phenomenally bold fare travels well in sturdy plastic containers that also make great leftover containers. Genuine Sichuan cuisine is the specialty, so adventurous eaters should seek those items while navigating the large menu. Favorites under the “Authentic Szechuan Style” header are tender and fiery sliced Lamb with Chili Pepper and Cumin ($12); explosive Diced Chicken Stir-Fried with Pickled Turnip ($8); and garlicky but mild Vegetable Delight. Note: When ordering “Vegetable Delight,” you must specify Pea Shoots (our preference, $11) or Water Spinach ($10, also a good choice). 2869 Olentangy River Road, Campus, 614-263-1991 5

Xiao Long Buns at Helen’s Asian Kitchen

Gabby’s Place

italian Gabby’s isn’t the sort of place you stumble upon. It’s not on a main road. It’s within walking distance of only a few houses. But you should veer off Route 23 and stumble through the door of this mom-and-pop bar and pizza shop. You know they mean business when there’s a separate entrance (around the front) for carryout orders. Gabby’s slings bar-food classics like barbecue chicken pizza, toppings spread to the edge and hot and spicy wings. But stromboli is what you should order. Horseshoe shaped and stuffed with cheese and whatever other classic toppings you want (we’re partial to sausage and jalapenos), this rendition hits on all the pizza pocket high notes—golden crisp outside, soft inside and plenty of melted cheese that strings along as you pull it. It’s served sliced into handheld pieces perfect for dipping in the tomato-heavy house sauce. Every stromboli (starts at $9) is made to order, so give the kitchen a 30-minute head start before you stop by. gabbysplacedelaware.com 3

Four Turns Bakery Company coming? Keep these handmade, par-baked croissants from the Zanesville bakery on hand; find them at The Hills. Just pop a frozen chocolate or butter croissant in the oven, and breakfast is ready in 10 minutes. Six-pack starts at $14 Gerber Chicken Burgers These all-natural burgers with no additives (read: no breadcrumbs) are a quickdinner go-to and a personal favorite of Weiland’s owner Jennifer Williams. Toss frozen patties right into the skillet, she says. Eight for $10 Luna Burgers Columbus-based Luna is the go-to veggie burger for many area restaurants. It’s also a customer favorite at The Hills and Weiland’s. Enjoy a Garden Thyme or Farmhouse Chili veggie burger in its natural state, or cut it up and toss it in a burrito or on a homemade pizza. $4.50

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feature | takeout

Jeddo Kebab

Portia’s Cafe

persian

vegan

To say Jeddo Kebab serves the best Persian food in town would be misleading, as the eatery is the only dedicated Persian restaurant inside the 270 belt. But that doesn’t mean eating at Jeddo is settling for what you can get. Its tiny previous location, where they set up shop for 13 years, made it a popular to-go spot. Now in a much bigger space on Dublin-Granville Road, what Jeddo has lost in hole-in-the-wall charm, it’s gained in quickness. They turn out excellent grilled meat and vegetable skewers, served on fragrant saffron rice, at a rapid pace. Juicy marinated chicken is an unlikely star in the Chicken Barg ($11.99). And it’s a winner again in Zereshk Polo Ba Morgh ($16.99)—half a chicken oven-roasted until fragrant and tender. Don’t leave here without a starter of silky Kashk o Bademjoon ($6.50)—a spread made with eggplant, onion, garlic and whey. jeddokabab.com 4

Ena’s Caribbean Kitchen

“What’s your name?” asks the girl behind the counter at Ena’s as she finishes taking our order. As we reply, she turns with our ticket and yells to the cooks through the pass, “Everybody say hi!” A greeting pointed with a Jamaican accent echoes from the kitchen. Picture wrapping this friendly and Caribbean-spiked welcome into a dish, and you’ll have a handle on what Vinell “Ms. Ena” Hayles’ carryout is like. The menu at her tropical Linden joint is full of foods she cooked at restaurants in Jamaica: slow-braised Oxtail ($10.95), fall-off-the-bone spicy Jerk Chicken ($9.95), fried red snapper (market price). Portions are huge and each meal includes a choice of two sides (cabbage, rice and beans, and plantains are all good choices). If you stop in on Sunday, be sure to check the menu for Creole specials. enascaribbean.com 5

caribbean

Cornerstone Deli & Cafe

Cornerstone Deli & Cafe is charmingly random. Sushi? Check. Meaty sandwiches? Got ’em. Salad bar? Yep. Plenty of better-than-average vegetarian fare? You bet. If it wasn’t so good, it’d just be plain odd. But its please-everyone nature makes Cornerstone an ideal spot for a hungry and disagreeing crowd. Order at the counter and grab a cup of Crimson Coffee while you wait. Bread-like bagels are made in-house and work best when containing a sandwich, like the spicy Herbivore ($5.50) with soft marinated tofu, banana peppers and lots of hot sauce, or the Portobello Melt ($5.50) with meaty roasted mushrooms and red peppers, sauteed onions and gooey mozzarella cheese. cornerstonedelicafe.com 3

deli / sushi

hances

eC Multipl

Local go-to spots with locations scattered around town

Diners regularly pack Portia Yiamouyiannis’ Clintonville cafe around dinner time, so takeout is always a safe bet. (The cafe is easy to miss; look for its burgundy awning on Indianola.) Delayed by traffic, we arrived 20 minutes late to pick up our order. Yiamouyiannis didn’t miss a beat, re-heating and repackaging the Thanksgiving Quesadilla ($10) with a smile. She is also known to whip up to-go orders 15 to 30 minutes after closing. “If they show up hungry, I still feed them,” she says with a laugh. Complete your order with a slice of vegan Cheezecake ($6) that, as the menu puts it, is “so richly delicious that you’ll be tempted to inspect the kitchen to see if we’re cheating.” portiascafe.com 5

(Order one of the inventive burgers, and chances are almost every ingredient, from bun to patty to dressing, is made at the restaurant.) Otanicar recommends adding soup to your order ($3.50 for a cup, $4.75 for a bowl and an extra 75 cents for a side of whole wheat toast) and a freshly baked cookie for dessert. We’re crazy for the EarthQuake, baked with chocolate chip and cayenne pepper. 3269 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-268-5751 2

Cafe Kabul

The look of Cafe Kabul is nothing special. It’s your nondescript, order-at-the-counter joint in a shopping plaza off Olentangy River Road near Campus. The menu is a little Indian (think tandoori chicken and chicken biryani) and a little Middle Eastern (gyros and Lavash hummus)—but the standouts are the Afghan dishes. mediterranean Although Nasir Latif has Start with an order of Buranee Bonjon ($5.99). nearly tripled the amount of seating Slices of sauteed eggplant are topped at Lavash Cafe since it opened in with house-made yogurt and served Clintonville five years ago, the with Afghan bread, a naan-like restaurant’s healthy soups, flatbread baked in a tandoor sandwiches and salads oven. Follow it up with are ideal for on-the-go while you’re here delicate pieces of lamb in Fill a growler at eating. (Nearly half of the the Kabuli Pallow ($15.95), neighboring Growl!, or restaurant’s customers which also includes Afghan grab a vegan treat at opt to carry out.) Skip rice, carrot strips and raisins. Pattycake Bakery. the nearly out-the-door You can walk in and order at the line by calling ahead, but be counter, and pictures on the menu prepared to actually cut in front help guide your decisions. But dishes of people when you go to pick up can take time to prepare, so call ahead if your spread. Use apologetic sidestepping you’re in a hurry. cafekabulcolumbus.com 3 to the on-site eaters and strong eye contact to let the cashier know that you’re the one whose kefta Huong Viet  sandwich with lamb rolled in lavash bread ($7.45) is in vietnamese At Huong, an order for more than two a bag at the pick-up counter. Bonus: Generous portions means you’re walking out with a box full of individually of pita or lavash accompany most orders. lavashcafe. wrapped orders, separated noodles and pho broth and 4 com bahn mi accoutrement that could soggy the sandwich safely corralled on the side in plastic baggies. It’s Whole World Natural obvious owner Huong Pham takes the delivery of her Restaurant & Bakery food as seriously as the creation of it. And so when we vegetarian Whole World Natural Restaurant & Bakery can’t sit and enjoy a meal at this Morse Road restaurant, is a best-kept secret among Columbus vegetarians. we can trust that the Pho Dac Biet (arguably some of Established in 1978, Dan Otanicar’s Clintonville onethe best in the city with just the right amount of anise, stop-shop (right off the corner of High Street and Como $8.80) or noodle salad packed with shrimp (Bun Tom Avenue) is perhaps the oldest meat-free restaurant Nuong, $8.20) will be nearly as good as it would be if in the city. Whole World’s aim is to offer food that is we were dining in. Bonus: Huong also has a short vegan familiar—think hummus, nachos, burgers, pizza, baked menu, including Vietnamese crepes and curry. huongvr. goods—but free of animal products, Otanicar says. blogspot.com 5

Aab India With locations in Dublin and Grandview, Aab serves the sort of cream-laden, spiced fare that introduces many to Northern Indian cuisine. Authenticity aside, it’s darn good and travels well, so order Matar Paneer and Chicken Saag and build your own at-home buffet. aabindiarestaurant.com

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La Chatelaine French comfort food tastes even better when cozied up on the couch. Swing by this bistro in Dublin, Worthington or Upper Arlington and order Duck and Pork Confit Cassoulet or Spaghetti a la Gigi, and chocolate eclair for dessert. lachatelainebakery.com

afghan

Northstar Cafe Long lines are typical at this well-loved cafe specializing in locally sourced food. Call ahead to skip the wait in Clintonville, Easton and the Short North, and be on your way with a Thai Burrito or Buddha Bowl. thenorthstarcafe.com

Mama Mimi’s You’ll have to finish this take-and-bake pie at home, but that’s just fine. The extra 15 minutes is worth it for a fresh-from-the-oven pizza you can pick up in Clintonville, Grandview or on Henderson Road. Get a Caesar Salad or Garlic Breadsticks to tide you over. mamamimis.com

Banh Mi Thit Nguoi, Pho Dac Biet, Goi Cuon Tom Thit (spring rolls), Bun Tom Nuong

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feature | takeout

Udon, Yellow Tail and Salmon nigiri, Manhattan and Toro and Onion roll and Yaki Udon 7 6 â&#x20AC;˘ C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM â&#x20AC;˘ s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

NORTHWEST

Sun Tong Luck Asian Cuisine

chinese Co-owner Helena Louie is all smiles ready to take your order behind a Formica counter, the only barrier between the kitchen and the linoleum-tiled dining room at Sun Tong Luck on Bethel Road. Ask for the Spicy Garlic Tofu ($5.75 half order, $8 full), and she’ll tell you they use a highquality, GMO-free tofu. Get an order of Chicken Sui Mai ($3 for $3.05), and she’ll mention these open dumplings are carryovers from the dim sum menu served at Sun Tong Luck’s original location in Reynoldsburg. So supportive is Helena of your order (and their hydrogenated-oil-free ingredients), you’ll be tempted to keep going. And that wouldn’t be a bad thing here, where Chinese dishes, from the Americanized General Tso’s chicken to the curry-laden Singapore Noodles (a must!), are fresh and bright. They’re all creations of Helena’s husband Frank, who cooked at “frou-frou” restaurants in Hong Kong before coming to the States in the ’70s. suntongluck.com 5

Mojo Tago

crusty house-made bread—and the rest of the subs are every bit as hefty. Best of all, they’re a steal at $10.99 (the menu suggests that they could serve two, and it’s no exaggeration). Since there are only four indoor seats, takeout is almost mandatory, and the hot subs and calzones ($9.99/pound) travel well. Vincenzo’s is great for large office orders, and employees will happily box them and help you take them to your car. govincenzos.com 4

Dosa Corner

Apna Bazaar

Everyone’s talking fried chicken these days, but what about tandoori chicken? Apna Bazaar’s tandoors—deep, cave-like ovens in which skewered chicken is grilled—are busy producing some of the best tandoori chicken and naan bread in town. Expect a bit of a wait in the bare-bones carryout side of the business (you can also dine next door at the Tandoori Grill), but the wait’s certainly worth it. The rich and tender chicken or goat qorma dishes are sure-fire winners, but you shouldn’t go without at least one order of the while you’re here boneless tandoori chicken and their Get a jump start on thin naan. The naan may lose some the week’s groceries of its crisp when traveling, but the at nearby CAM foil-wrapped chicken skewers stay International Market. warm and succulent. apnabazaar.biz

south indian / vegetarian If Indian food is your comfort food, then dosas are your meatloaf. Dosa Corner employs these massive, tangy crepe-like pancakes to swaddle fillings like masala dosa (onion and herbed potato curry, $6.39) and channa masala (chickpea and potato curry, $7.50). Pour accompanying brothy veggie soup over the dosa or enjoy on its own. Crispy edges are made for dipping in raita (thin yogurt sauce) or any chutney at hand. Though dosas are the stars here, explore the sweets in the case near the register; earthy-sweet carrot halwa is a favorite. Though Dosa Corner’s dining room is harshly lit and spare, it’s a lovely place to listen to people speaking other languages. But the restaurant does expert-level takeout, wrapping sauce, soup and chutney tightly in cling wrap and jacketing dosas in heat-retaining foil. Nary a drop spilled on the 15-minute drive home. dosacornerrestaurant.com 5

mexican If you didn’t know Mojo Tago started as a tacoslinging food truck, you’ll get the picture when you walk into its brick-and-mortar shop in a Powell business plaza. The walls are the same vibrant orange, green and yellow as its truck. Behind the stainless steel counter, a door swings upward—just like the window of a food truck— exposing Coke products for sale. Mobile roots mean fast service with tacos, quesadillas and burritos ready in a Moretti’s of Arlington matter of minutes. The menu’s been in flux as cooks test italian Upscale Italian takeout becomes a rare reality specials for a forthcoming sit-down and bar next door at this frequently jammed crowd-pleaser. The family-run (they’re shooting for a March opening), but if the Korean winner has been in the Tremont Center since 2000, BBQ is an option, get it. Chunks of tender and but extends back to a bygone Grandview salty Asian marinated short rib are topped Avenue Moretti’s which splintered into with crisp cabbage slaw and pickled red this and a (no longer business-related) onion. The carnitas with pineapple is while you’re here Dublin restaurant. Go with the a close, slightly sweeter, second. Pop into Beehive great, feeds-two Italian Plate ($20) mojotago.com 3 Bread Co. just down and avoid the $3 eat-in sharing the road for a loaf charge. Well-sealed in plasticof killer pumpkin  Tensuke Express lidded foil boxes, it’s a sampler chocolate chip bread. japanese Located inside Tensuke of huge homemade spicy Italian Market off Old Henderson Road, sausages; al dente handmade good Japanese food served at a spaghetti with rich red sauce; lovely fast pace is what Tensuke Express chicken paillard; giant handmade was created to do. It’s also a bargain, raviolo; crispy eggplant Parmesan with most dishes clocking in well under discs; and sauteed vegetables. The meal $10. How you want to enjoy this fare is up also comes with crusty house-made bread. to you. Wander to your left for the order-at-themorettisofarlington.com 4 counter restaurant that serves flavorful udon noodle and tempura soba bowls for a song. Or head left, then right for Nong’s Hunan Express the made-to-order sushi counter where you can get pieces thai / chinese The Columbus landscape is dotted with of nigiri topped with fish like tuna, yellow tail or salmon, or neighborhood Chinese joints, and Grandview’s Nong’s maki rolls in familiar California or more adventurous toro scratches that itch quite well. Less prevalent? Good and green onion options. Regardless of where you order, Thai food. And that’s the half of the menu where Nong’s you’ll be handed a vibrating buzzer, leaving you free to really shines. There’s a wide assortment of curry-heavy wander about the market. tensukemarket.com 4 entrees and, of course, traditional pad thai—though we recommend the more adventurous pad see ew if you’re in Vincenzo’s the mood for noodles. (The heat scale is Americanized, so italian As an Italian deli and wine shop, Vincenzo’s is don’t be afraid to order anything with a little extra spice.) often overlooked for its quick, high-quality, ready-to-eat And the Thai-Chinese combo is perfect if you can’t get your takeout selections. The meatball subs are huge—think significant other to get more adventurous than General Tso’s. large, saucy meatballs crammed into a sliced boule of nongshunanexpress.com 3

pakastani / indian

Anna’s Greek Cuisine

Chances are there’s a good Greek eatery in your neighborhood—a spot that’ll satisfy cravings for gyros and hummus and the like. But if you’re in the mood for fare more reminiscent of sitting along the Mediterranean, go to Anna’s Greek Cuisine located in a powerhouse plaza on Sawmill (its neighbors are perennial favorites Hass and Sunflower Chinese). Your best bet? Stick to dishes under the Anna’s Specialties header, like herbaceous Chicken Lemonati ($15) with crisp green beans and tangy lemon potatoes and Lamb Parnasos ($17), a dressed-up peasant-style dish with chunks of lamb, tomatoes, onion, mushrooms, eggplant and zucchini. Bonus: Spots in front of the restaurant are reserved for takeout customers. annasgreekfood.com greek

 Jie’s Good Tasting

chinese If at first you don’t succeed in reaching Jie’s by phone, call, call again. Chances are, the one or two people working at this Grandview Avenue gem are preoccupied serving tables or hand-folding the restaurant’s worththe-wait dumplings. The savory bite-size bags are better than the service, so place that order (but be prepared for a few dishes to be sold out) and take a seat for 10 minutes once you arrive. (Sitting at an uncleared table is less awkward than waiting in the middle of the 24top dining room.) Don’t neglect to include an order of a dozen two-bite pork and celery dumplings. (Dumplings are good the next day, so it’s totally OK to over-order.) facebook.com/goodtastingchinese 3

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feature | takeout a fork-and-knife sandwich (ask for an extra side of creamy garlic sauce). Pair a pita sandwich with the hearty and flavorful Lentil Veggie Soup ($2.99), and splurge on housemade Chocolate Walnut Baklava ($5). themadgreek.biz

EAST

Pita House Restaurant 

3 middle eastern File this under hidden gems because the fresh, vibrant and Nazareth Restaurant & Deli inexpensive Middle Eastern food middle eastern We’re always tempted to at under-the-radar Pita House is sit down and eat at Nazareth in Gahanna. pretty unbeatable. Its sparse while you’re here We simply want to hang out with the strip mall digs, however, are Mix and match a gregarious owner who greets regulars very beatable. That’s why there’s six-pack at neighboring by name and newcomers with the same a constant stream of to-go sacks Crafted Drafts. enthusiasm. His personality warms the being packed for in-the-know boxy, shopping plaza space off North Hamilton locals. They’re digging top-notch Road, and infects the servers who are friendly kubeh (aka kibbeh, two for $5) and and quick with your order. Good thing Nazareth’s meal-deal kabob plates ($10), like smoky traditional Middle Eastern fare travels so well or we might and seared, tender, juicy and aromatic kafta. Most plates never leave. Here you’ll find solid versions of classics like come with rich and wonderful hummus plus two sides, lamb shish kebab, lemon chicken soup and the popular such as outstanding roasted cauliflower salad, lemony spicy chicken and rice made with house hot sauce. The tabbouleh, bright and tangy eggplant salad and ratatouillemenu standout, however, is the wonderfully cumin-laden like matbukha. Sandwiches like chicken shawarma ($7) Lentils & Rice ($6). It’s a healthy helping of al dente green likewise outpace competitors. pitahousebexley.com 5 lentils, fragrant rice and caramelized onions and a side of citrusy house yogurt sauce. If you add spicy chicken to the meal (and you should for $4), you’ll need the sauce to help Creole Kitchen calm down the heat. nazarethdeli.com 4 creole and cajun This Spartan strip-mall carryout

isn’t much to look at, but chef Henry Butcher’s food explodes with joy and flavor. Butcher, a lifelong student of the kitchen who’s pulled gigs in hotel and restaurants around the country, hung his own shingle in 2006 and hopes to expand soon into an adjacent space for fullservice dining. Until then, call ahead; wait times vary greatly, since it’s often just Butcher and one other cook working the stoves. We recommend Seafood Fettuccini, Crawfish Etoufee, gumbo, and “Ooh-wee!” spicy Chicken Andouille Jambalaya. creolekitchen.biz 3

Mad Greek

greek / mediterranean Mad Greek is takeout-friendly across the board. There’s a designated takeout menu online, and even an arched carryout-only door for when you arrive to pick up your stuffed grape leaves and chicken kabobs. The separation from the dining room entrance means you can get in and get out of this Whitehall spot with little hassle. We’ve had great luck with Greek street food classics here, including Souvlaki ($6.50) so packed with tender and flavorful pork that it’s practically

n the Go

A Slice o

Oh, pizza, the perennial takeout favorite that’s easy to transport and even easier to share. Here are five joints where you’ll find great classic pie (and tips on what we love to order).

hidden gem and neighborhood staple. The setting is inviting, as is the staff, but if you have to go to-go, Indochine still gets it right. The streamlined menu features an assortment of banh mi and steamed or fried rice platters, but two dishes really stand out. You can order “Bun Cha Gio Thit Heo Nuong” or simply say “Number 23.” Either way you’ll get a fantastic dish of chilled rice vermicelli noodles and fresh veggies with warm grilled pork and eggrolls. Or get the pho, specifically the special Tom Yum Pho. The carryout version comes perfectly deconstructed for the ride home. facebook.com/columbusindochine 5

Chi Thai

chinese / thai From the curb, Chi Thai looks Asian chainlike. It’s a huge, white tablecloth space in a Gahanna strip mall. But don’t be deceived by looks—it’s very much a local operation and it also serves some of the best Chinese on this side of town. (The bar, however, falls short with an OK wine list and limited beer selection, which is why we opt for takeaway here.) What we order: Szechuan Bean Curd ($10.75) with fried tofu and a chili-spiced black bean sauce and pan-fried Cantonese-style egg noodles ($12.95) tossed in a savory brown sauce with flank steak, shrimp, chicken and bright veggies. The lot can be packed on weekend nights, but, luckily, there are parking spaces for takeout customers only. chithairestaurant.com 4

Da Levee

cajun/creole The Gahanna outpost of this New Orleansthemed bar is designed strictly for carryout orders. Sure, there are a few tables and chairs for those who wander in and want to stay, but it’s best to get your red beans and rice and spicy chicken po’ boys to go (and ideally paired at home with a cocktail or two). The setup is exactly the same as the original location—order at the counter, daily rotating blackboard of Cajun and Creole specials, and not a meal more than $10. We stick to the left side of the board with the day’s six specials and love that you can mix and match orders, combining two half portions into one meal for $8 (just a buck more than a large portion of one item). Our go to: Spicy Jambalaya with chicken, sausage and dirty rice, and the sweet-savory Maque Choux with caramelized corn, green chilies and black beans. facebook. com/daleveeonstygler 4

Indochine Cafe

Even before the Pho-splosion that made Vietnamese food suddenly trendy, Indochine was a

vietnamese/laotian

Clintonville Simplicity is key at Gatto’s Pizza, where the Gatto family has been assembling thincrust pies since 1952. Splurge on a sausage and mushroom, with thick, shaved slices of spicy sausage. gattospizza.com

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Grove City Tristano’s Pizzeria gets a thumbs-up from Chicago natives for their deep-dish pizzas, so there’s no question of what to order: the Chicago Stuffed Pizza layered with spicy pepperoni, mozzarella and owner Lou Tristano’s Sweet Lou’s marinara sauce. tristanospizza.com

 The Angry Baker

bakery Takeout was made for spots like The Angry Baker. Vicki Hink’s hip Olde Towne East cafe is packed on weekends (seating is limited to a short counter and a few tables), so make a point to call ahead. Some of the breakfast offerings (like the standout Vegan Pumpkin French Toast) don’t travel well, so go for a bowl—we love the Tu-No Bowl with chickpeas ($9)—or something between buns, like the Broccoli Burger ($9.50) or the seitan-based Vegan Reuben ($9.50). Grab a treat for the road, too, like a savory tomato, feta and basil scone ($3.25). theangrybakerote.com 4

Grandview Panzera’s Pizza’s family atmosphere keeps customers returning for the crispy thin crusts slathered with homemade pizza sauce. The Butcher Block is loaded to the edges with pepperoni, sausage, capicola and ground beef. panzeras.com

Bexley Bexley Pizza Plus won first place for Best Traditional Pizza at the 2014 World Pizza Challenge. See why when you to order Brad Rocco’s Ultimate Pizza loaded with mushrooms and two types of pepperoni. bexleypizzaplus.com

North End Pizza House owner Billy Colasante and his long-time crew toss pies using scratch-made sauces and a proprietary cheese blend. Their square-cut All The Way pizza is piled with pepperoni, sausage, green peppers, onions and mushrooms. pizzahousecolumbus. com

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feature | takeout

Pad Phrik Khing, Lap Kai, Som Tom and Yum Woon Sen

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more when topped with warm whole chickpeas, hot pepper puree and lemon juice in the Hummus Masabacha ($7.50) starter that comes with a good helping of fresh pita bread triangles. If you’re feeling street food, get the Spicy Gyro Platter ($12.50) served over rice with a kicky gyro sauce. The Vegetable Couscous ($14.50) is a comically large portion of carrots, zucchini, spaghetti squash, potatoes, cabbage and chickpeas tossed with steamed semolina and North African spices. It’s homey and filling without feeling heavy, and reheats well the next day. olivetreecolumbus.com 4

West

 Westgate Thai

If you really want to show your friends you know how to find a great hidden gem, take them to Westgate Thai. It’s a four-table spot you’d never know was there by the looks of its Sullivant Avenue ethnic grocery (Westgate Thai Import Market) exterior. But inside is some of the best, and cheapest, Thai you’ll find in Columbus. Order like a pro and get the Khao Kaphrao Khai Dao ($6.99), a mix of veggies and meat tossed in a gingery Thai basil and garlic sauce and topped with a runny fried egg, the Pad Phrik Khing ($6.99), a stir-fry-like, aromatic red curry (without the coconut milk) with green beans and a choice, and the Lap Kai ($6.99), a ground meat salad with crunchy Kolache Republic toasted rice, chili heat and spearmint served with leaves of czech/texan There are few menus more perfectly adapted romaine lettuce. Bonus: Order for more than to takeout than Kolache Republic’s; their bierocks and two and they’ll give you a well-packed box breakfast kolaches amount to full savory meals baked to carry out your meals. facebook.com/ into golden buns, and the sweet kolaches, which westgatethai 5 while you’re here can be ordered by the dozens if called in ahead, thai

South

Frank’s Fish & Seafood

Grab a bottle of seafood-friendly, organic wine from their backroom cellar.

seafood About a year ago, owner Frank Gonzalez set aside a small portion of his retail seafood market off Trabue Road for a 10-seat restaurant. The result is one of the best hidden gems on the West Side for fish lovers. The two-table eatery is decorated like a seaside cottage with lighthouse border wallpaper and kitschy fish art. The daily menu scribbled on a large chalkboard promises dishes that fit the ambiance—beer-battered cod, cornmealfried perch, fried oysters and spicy catfish, most of which come as sandwiches (any topped with Meyer lemon aioli are a must) or platters with a choice of Southern sides like hushpuppies. The guy who takes your order from an open kitchen window is also the cook. He’s likely juggling several tickets, so be patient. While you wait, wander into the attached market where live lobsters swim in a tank and fresh seafood and shrimp is ready to grab from tubs of ice. franksfishandseafoodmarket.com 3

Al Almeer

We became fans of this Roberts Road eatery in Hilliard last year in its previous incarnation as Casablanca Grill. Under the same management, but with a new name, thankfully not too much has changed. Al Ameer has the usual Middle Eastern suspects, kebabs, shawarma and the like, and it’s all good. But what you really want here is the seven-item Moroccan menu, namely the tagines—a stewed vegetable dish typically spiced with berbere and cooked in an earthenware pot. We prefer the fragrant Meat Tagine ($14.95) with huge pieces of fall-off-the-bone lamb and rice (chicken and fish are also options). The only downside is they can be tough to catch (due to their popularity we’re told). Call too late on a weekend night, and they might be sold out. Your best bet? Place your order late afternoon to early evening on Saturday. casablancagrillhilliard.com 4

middle eastern/moroccan

The Olive Tree

middle eastern Sunday brunch is a big draw for this Hilliard eatery (Did somebody say shakshuka?), but skipping lunch or dinner here would be a shame. The dining room isn’t very big, and it can get crowded quickly, but there’s plenty of space to wait near the counter if you’re getting food to go. Olive Tree has some of the best creamy hummus around, but we love it even

are offered in a wide variety of flavors that make for a winning alternative to the usual office donuts. Their kielbasa and cheddar kolaches look like adult sized pigs-in-a-blanket, and make for the ultimate mess-free road meal. kolacherepublic.com

Bangkok Restaurant

thai We weren’t the only ones thinking Thai when we swung by Bangkok on a Tuesday night. The faux-brick-walled dining room was full, and plastic bags filled with takeout boxes were lined up behind the register. While we waited to pay, we watched the phone ring every 30 seconds or so, as another order came in. It’s obvious Bangkok on Refugee Road has been a southeast side Thai go-to for years. Here’s what we get: spicy and creamy Tom Ka Gai soup, basil and garlicky Pad Ka Pao with stir fried chicken and Pad Hoi, stir fried mussels in a hot chili sauce with mushrooms and onions. bangkokcolumbus.com 4

 Harvest Moon Cafe

We’ll confess it’s fun to dine in at Canal Winchester’s buzzing Harvest Moon Cafe with bright green and brick walls, and a smart cocktail list inspired by notable consultant Cris Dehlavi. But if you’re in a hurry, the comfort food with a healthy bent from owners and herbalists Nathan and Kelley Doerfler easily withstands a change of venue (namely your coffee table). Burgers paired with a simple side salad travel well. Go for the Butter Bison Burger ($11.95) with an unctuous red wine and bone marrow butter and crispy onions on a brioche bun, or the house-made Black Bean Burger ($9.75) topped with avocado and cilantro pesto. hm-cafe.com 4

american

Door r u o Y o T Pickup is more common than delivery in Columbus, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find good foods that’ll come to you. Retro Dinner Diva Forget meal planning. Retro Dinner Diva Stephanie Eakins has you covered with a monthly rotating menu of from-scratch, oven-ready meals she’ll bring right to you. She offers comfort food like bacon-wrapped meatloaf and lighter fare like caprese stuffed chicken. Place your order by Saturday and freezer-safe meals will be to on your doorstep by Wednesday. retrodinnerdiva. com Whence A newer app service in the area, think of Whence as a personal assistant—pick an eatery or grocery store from their marketplace (like Native Cold Pressed, Whole Foods Market, Lucky’s Market, Little Donut Shop or Pistacia Vera), and your order will come to you within 90 minutes. Don’t see what you want? Click the concierge button and send your request to a Whence rep. They’ll pick up just about anything and bring it to you the same day. whence.co Fit Food Columbus Started by two healthconscious Columbusites, Fit Food is a personalized meal-plan program—dishes also much more exciting than they sound. Order one meal, or a week in bulk, and choose from flavorful, daily rotating options like paprika-spiked steak, sweet potato gnocchi or spicy peanut noodle bowl. Bonus: they’ll deliver to wherever you are, work or home. fitfoodmeals.com

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Ali Alshahal, head of A&R Creative Group

Photo: Tessa Berg

The head of A&R Creative Group, Ali Alshahal, has a knack for turning dicey spaces into dining destinations. He transformed a dive bar into a hipster haven, a known Campus drug spot into a bar and arcade and a rundown convenience store into an airy market. Up next: Prove an urban farm can be sustainable, continue to grow his concepts and transform dining out into a catalyst for social change.

Story by JILL MOORHEAD

li Alshahal’s office is from another time, with its wood-paneled walls and shabbierthan-chic threadbare furniture. It takes some vision to imagine that this 1980s-era former law office on Summit Street is where plans for organic juice bars, urban farms and paleofriendly restaurants, constructed in dining deserts, originated. The only sign that restaurant-ing—and not litigation—is practiced in this room are buttons sporting the red rooster logo of his new Italian Village eatery, The Market, scattered among empty growlers in a bay window. The managing partner of A&R Creative Group is at the table in his signature newsboy cap and neatly trimmed beard, looking over resumes for managers to run a planned 2-acre urban farm at Jeffrey Park on Fourth Street. Carrie Lierl, the project coordinator, presents more than 27 would-be farmers. They come from Colorado, New England, even France. One is a chef wanting to break into farming. Several are skilled in starting urban farms. As Ali highlights resumes and watches Kickstarter-style video portfolios, Lierl receives an email. There’s another applicant. This one is from Italy—a birthplace of the farmto-table movement—where Ali’s younger brother and business partner, Abed, has recently visited as a local delegate to Terre Madre, a massive biennial conference of Slow Food International. Behind Ali is an idea board, a remnant of a meeting with the owners of Hoof Hearted Brewing. A collaboration brewpub—Hoof Hearted Brewery & Kitchen—set to open in early summer will anchor the Jeffery Project. The rendering promises a sleek, stark brewery and restaurant—a “Nordic vibe” Ali calls it. The drawings, which show lush rows of beets growing in a vibrantly healthy farm,

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feature | profile

The Life of A&R Creative Group

August 2010 4th Street Bar & Grill A spot for Crew fans and beer lovers alike, 4th Street boasts more than 100 beers.

January 2011 Midway on High A stone’s throw from Tobacco International, this bar and restaurant is a starting point for A&R chefs.

"* ' Why bother with fresh food and farms when selling “sin items” is a solid business plan? Those who know the brothers best credit the patriarch of the family, Kamal Alshahal. Ali’s father, an immigrant from Beirut, used to walk from Campus to the South Side to get to work. Kamal instilled a sense of value to his three boys—Ali, Abed and Ismail, head of A&R’s operations—that they are always students and also always teachers. Ali learned business—balancing books, understanding the bottom line, managing employees—working at the Dairy Mart his father owned in Clintonville. “[My dad]

January 2012 Cafe del Mondo Purchased for its large kitchen and proximity to other properties, frontof-house operations at this longtime Italian Village neighborhood staple remain unchanged, while the kitchen functions as a bakery for the group.

April 2012 The Crest in Clintonville This farm-to-table gastropub opens in Clintonville with much fanfare, replacing a neighborhood dive bar.

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The Crest

Ethyl & Tank

always made us understand that we could not disrespect what he was doing,” Ali says. “When he came here, he had no friends and no family. He had to start from nothing. He was persistent, and because of that, we had a nice life.” He practiced his father’s basics when he opened his own convenience store, Tobacco International, after graduating from Ohio State with an international business degree. Ali says he had never been inside a bar when he decided to venture beyond convenience stores and open up 4th Street Bar & Grill on Campus in 2010. All he was armed with was a love of craft beer (rooted in working at his father’s convenience store) and an appreciation for food from his childhood in Beirut, where farm-to-table isn’t a concept, he says, but a way of life. Inspired by Mikkeller Brewery in Denmark and Collin Castore, the now former owner of Bodega, Ali leaped head-

February 2013 Ethyl & Tank The company’s third Campus establishment, Ethyl & Tank fills a once dark and empty building known for drug activity.

Photos: Top, Tessa Berg; bottom, meghan ralston

2007 Tobacco International The Campus beer, energy drink, hookah and cigarette haven offers delivery and snack foods.

are a complete juxtaposition to the board room that houses them. No matter: Ali’s vision has turned many less-than-sexy spaces into aesthetically beautiful places, like a shady convenient store into a bazaar-esque cafe and market, or a neighborhood dive bar into a shiny gastropub. His vision goes into his restaurants, not his workspace. Situated on Fourth Street, this project could easily be the Instagram photo-op equivalent to slick table tents showcasing “farm-fresh” food at chain restaurants. But it’s not greenwashing. The urban farm that will provide specialty produce like micro carrots and beets, for both the immediate community and the restaurant group, is part of Ali’s mission and, by default, the mission of A&R Creative Group. This group, which oversees 10 restaurants, including Ethyl & Tank, The Crest and Alchemy Juice Bar & Cafe, as well as the Columbus Growing Collective (a sustainable agriculture venture that includes the farm), shares lofty goals: Enhance the food system, create jobs, engage in environmentally friendly practices. From rooftop gardens to educational events to staffing nutritionists and farmers, this family-owned restaurant group is buttressed with initiatives that go beyond the basics of turning covers and cashing checks. This is an unlikely path for someone whose first business was selling cigarettes and Budweiser to college kids. A&R wants to change the way restaurants work. “You go into some of these chain restaurants, and everything almost tastes the same because they’re ordering from the same places,” Ali says. “That’s not a restaurant. Knowing where your beer comes from, knowing where your food comes from, knowing that the people working there are the people who are actually producing with their own hands. It’s a beautiful thing.”

Photo: meghan ralston

Abed and Ali Alshahal present plans for Hoof Hearted Brewery & Kitchen in November 2014.

Summer 2015

first into the bar business. (His first bar visit, by the way? Lucky’s on Campus.) To say the learning curve was steep is an understatement. While he’d run Tobacco International for years, Ali was naive about what it took to operate a bar. “Each week at 4th Street was like a year in the bar business,” he says. It was where he learned customer service basics and how to adapt quickly. When a breakfast menu, food delivery and multi-course meals failed, Ali found something that worked: fast pub fare made in house. 4th Street (and its 58 taps) was about the beer. Next was Midway on High, purchased for its proximity to Tobacco International and with the goal of being a training ground for new chefs within the company. By then, he was hooked on creating places people love, providing jobs and making restaurants. When Cafe del Mondo came up for sale in 2012, Ali recognized its large kitchen as an ideal central bakery for

February 2014 Columbus Growing Collective A low-profit company managing The Italian Village Urban Farm, CGC hopes to prove urban farming can be sustainable.

July 2014 The Market The Italian Village market operates as a restaurant, coffee shop and wine bar, as well as a place to grab day-to-day essentials.

Hoof Hearted Brewery & Kitchen Located at The Jeffrey on 4th Street, this partnership with Hoof Hearted will include seasonal produce coming from the nearby 2-acre urban farm.

his growing group of restaurants, none of which made as big of a splash as The Crest. When the Clintonville gastropub opened with fanfare (and lots of billboards) in 2012, he says the restaurant was restrained by its own success. With a nonstop stream of customers, Ali and his brothers didn’t have time to correct staffing, consistency and operational issues. Neighbors were frustrated about an onslaught of cars parking on residential streets, and customers took to the Internet to complain about poor service. “You’re not dealing with corporate chefs who have a lot of experience,” says Ali, remembering the opening. “We’re your next door neighbors that opened up this place. [The Crest opening] made us look in the mirror and ask, ‘How do we get better?’ You don’t just open up a business because

October 2014 Alchemy Juice Bar & Cafe Across from Nationwide Children’s Hospital, this 1,000-square-foot organic juice bar comes with an on-site registered dietitian and serves as a companion to the upstairs gym.

Spring 2015 The Crest at Parsons This paleo-friendly restaurant with a kitchen four times the size of the original location will feature a protein- and veggie-forward menu, a coal-fired grill and no deep-fried foods. s p r i n g 2 0 1 5 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • 8 5

feature | profile Ali, Abed and Ismail Alshahal at The Market

Photo: Tessa Berg

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you love something or you have a gut feeling that says, ‘This could work.’ You have to have every detail in place.” The harried grand opening led to two things: a quiet opening for Ethyl & Tank (whose problematic vacant building he’d stared at for four years) near Campus and a vision for The Market Italian Village. During a drive to get some air, Ali laid eyes on the corner store that had been known to sell bath salts (not the Calgon kind) and turned it, in his imagination, into a corner store like the ones in Lebanon, with fresh produce, bread and provisions. “I thought, ‘Let’s create that,’ ” he says. “Let’s give a little homage to my father, who started out with a convenience store.” Today, the corner store serves milk, vegetables, coffee and dinner to its neighbors. Next came the opportunity to partner with developer Jeff May to open Alchemy Juice Bar & Cafe adjacent to a new health club in the former Bobb Chevrolet site on Parsons Avenue. Aligning perfectly with Abed’s background (a degree in human nutrition from OSU), the juice bar staffs a registered dietitian and provides healthier fare for those near Nationwide Children’s

find in Columbus,” Lai says. “He is a bit of a control freak, [in] that he likes to have a hand in everything, from the color of the paint to the kind of coffee beans they use.” At first meeting, Ali seems reserved, except when he talks about his children. (He is often late to his first meetings of the day, because he drops his kids off at school.) He studies those around him. He questions motives and holds back details (he’s reluctant to talk openly about upcoming plans and dispelled rumors about a second Crest location for years). He likes to know what drives people. According to Ali, his interviews with potential employees are as much about mentality as they are about experience. In his eyes, it’s easier to teach a candidate a skill, such as serving or hosting, than it is to teach them to appreciate the value of a rooftop garden or locally sourced food. And while he happily—and aggressively— promotes his restaurants, he doesn’t crave attention, and his personal brand is intentionally absent from social media. He’s absent, actually, from the first days of business: “Opening the doors is my least favorite part,” he says. “Every single place, I’ve left when they

“He’s so open to ideas and people’s thoughts. He listens to ideas. And he’s not going to stop. That’s for sure.” —Chef Dustin Brafford

Hospital. A second Crest location will open next to Alchemy and will feature a kitchen four times the size of the original, allowing for a varied menu, coal-fired grill and lots of paleo-friendly fare. “It’s easy to go to Easton or a big shopping center and put something in,” Ali says about Alchemy and the Parsons Avenue Crest. “But [I like] to be challenged. How do you help the neighborhood? How do you become an anchor of something that’s never been there?”

"* ' Abed describes Ali as the designer and motivator of each endeavor in this operation, instilling passion into the people who work for him. Ali encourages the team to invest emotionally in projects. The result? Restaurant-hosted beer dinners become works of art; empty lots turn into farms. Passion is a recurring theme for those who know and work with Ali. Architect Tim Lai— who designed The Crest’s rain garden and Hoof Hearted Brewery & Kitchen—considers him one of the most visionary people he knows. “Before the Market opened, Ali traveled to Cleveland and New York City and other places to find unique and rare food products and wines that you can’t

open. I travel. I go to New York or to Lebanon for a few weeks so I won’t hear anything. It’s the fear of rejection.” Touch on something he cares about—such as what drives him—and his short sentences become soliloquies. “I feel like I’m not working,” he says. “It’s exciting. It’s about making sure your staff, your family and kids are part of something. It’s creating something. It’s helping others and being able to give back and to teach and to create.” Ali stacks his deck with those who care about his mission. He works closely alongside his brothers (Ismail does operations; Abed manages sourcing and community initiatives) and he’s hired a trio of classically trained chefs, who worked under Richard Blondin of The Refectory, to develop menu ideas for all his restaurants. Those who work with him have to be nimble. “I’d go to work, and he’d have the craziest ideas,” says former Crest chef Dustin Brafford. He cites plans for a $100,000 rooftop garden. “I would be like, ‘Where did that come from?’ ” But, he continues, he’s never questioned why. “[Ali] has his reasons. He’ll say, ‘Let’s grow some vegetables on the roof.’ And I’ll say, ‘That’s going to be a tough pass.’ And he’ll be like, ‘Yeah, it’s going to be a tough pass. Nothing’s easy in life.’ ”

Community Partners

Abed Alshahal spends his time mentoring students, setting up events, working with organizations such as Local Matters and Yay Bikes. His goal? To use A&R’s restaurants as a catalyst for social change, from how to ride a bike, to how to grow a garden. Here’s a look at some of the company’s initiatives. Rooftop Gardens Clintonville Crest staff members help cultivate rooftop-grown tomatoes, edible flowers, kale and the like using organic methods. The Crest at Parsons will open with a 2,000-square-foot garden (three times the size of the original). Partners: Higher Ground Green Roofs, Ohio State Knowlton School of Architecture Rain Garden The Clintonville Crest helps deter storm water runoff (a cause of water contamination in the Olentangy River) with a streetside garden designed to soak up rainwater and filter the flow. Partners: Engineers for Community Service, Friends of the Lower Olentangy Watershed, Urban Wild Water Collection An irrigation system and accompanying 1,100-gallon cisterns allow the Crest Clintonville to collect rainwater for watering plants. They hope to use the water to flush toilets in the future. Partner: Rain Brothers Composting The Crest and The Market set aside close to 1,000 pounds of food scraps a week to be used for soil compost that ends up in A&R’s raised beds. Partners: Veridian, Ohio Mulch Educational Events The original Crest acts as a central hub to host events and workshops based around farm-to-table foods. Partners: Ohio State Extension Master Gardener Program, Local Matters The Italian Village Urban Farm, Jeffrey Park This 2-acre urban production farm on 4th Street run by A&R’s lowprofit Columbus Growing Collective will be used for education, job training and as a community garden. Partners: OSU School of Social Work, Swainway Urban Farm, Godman Guild

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We went inside three of Columbus’ best and most interesting restaurant wine cellars. Along the way, we picked up insider tips and secrets from the wine pros at The Refectory, Alana’s and Third & Hollywood. Now they’re yours to use.

Sto r ie

l s by kr ist en schmidt photos by w il l s h il

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ing

Drink by numbers At Third & Hollywood, the wine wall is arranged from upper left to bottom right, lightest to darkest wines. Sparkling wines and Champagne are in bins numbered under 100. Bin 909, the highest number on the list, contains Gallica Suzuri Rhone Blend, an $89 bottle from Amador County, California. Pinot noir is in the 400s, chardonnay is in the 100s, Italian wines are in the 600s.

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Veterans The Refectory

Jeff Elasky doesn’t want to say this when asked how he manages The Refectory’s 520-selectionsdeep wine cellar, because he does keep spreadsheets of inventory and prices. But his unspoken answer is this: He just knows. This is what it’s like to have managed a renowned wine cellar for 33 years and some change—at some point, the cellar became second nature to Elasky. For an interview, he sits in the Refectory’s dramatic original wine cellar, under the main dining room. Lined with locked wine cages, the room doubles as a private dining room and leads to a locked long hallway-like room with more wine and lesser aesthetics. “We started this journey in this room. Kamal (Boulos, the Refectory’s owner since 1991) brought me down here and showed me five bottles of the Stag’s Leap [cabernet sauvignon] Lot 2—it was a really hot wine in those days. He said, ‘This is the start of our wine list. We’re going to create a great wine list here at the Refectory,’ ” Elasky says. “That was 1981, before anyone was doing anything like that. It was all carafes.” It’s been consistently recognized by Wine Spectator as one of the best in the world. At one time, the cellar at the Refectory held 18,000 bottles. Times have changed, and so have the restaurant and its wine cellar, which contains about 4,380 bottles. The 2008 recession prompted Elasky to rewrite the list and present it in two distinct, more palatable, sections. A main list is filled with dozens of bottles, most under $100 and many under $50. A reserve list, printed on a different color paper, boasts a wine geek’s fantasy—page after page of old, rare and coveted fine wines. Columbus diners might have a different impression, but the Refectory’s wine list is accessible and affordable—and it has the benefit of being curated by one of the city’s best palates. “We’re excited about putting wine out in front of people at a decent price,” Elasky says. “And we felt that, if we priced our own wines decently, were innovative, had unique selections and had a broad selection from all over the world, we would draw in people who are serious about wine.” refectory.com

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a few of jeff elasky’s favorite things

Q Solena Willamette Valley 2011 pinot gris, Oregon ($8.95 glass, $35.95 bottle): “It has a little gewürztraminer, which gives it a little sweetness. You can even enjoy it with seafood.”

Q Colene Clemens 2011 Dopp Creek pinot noir, Oregon ($11.95 glass, $48.95 bottle): “I tasted it earlier this year; it had really come up and fruit was starting to show and it was just drinking lovely. It was one of our top wines of 2014.” Q Domaine Mireille & Vincent 2010 Cotes du Rhone ($7.95 glass, $31.95 bottle): “I’ve been shocked recently by that one. I think it’s just hitting its stride. I was really surprised when I took a bottle home during the holidays how nice it was drinking.” Q Annie & Bernard Longefay 2013 Brouilly, Beaujolais ($10.95 glass, $45.95 bottle): Chef Blondin’s cousins make this wine in the southernmost cru of France’s Beaujolais region. The wine starts with old-vine gamay grapes. “It’ll drink like a Burgundy, and it’s not a wine that will overwhelm food,” Elasky says.

Q The Refectory’s chef, Richard Blondin, is from Lyon, France, and his cuisine is decidedly French, but the restaurant’s wine menu ventures all around the world, through Bourdeaux and Burgundy, yes, but also through Italy, California, Spain, South America and elsewhere. Q One of the best bargains at the Refectory is the 10 for $10 wine tastings. Reservations are required; check the restaurant website for details about upcoming events. Q For a great value: “Spain has been my go-to country. I went to Spain in 2012 and traveled all over. They have some vines that aren’t even trellised; you hand-pick them. These old-vine vineyards put out fantastic wines. You can get a bottle made from 50or 60-year-old vines for $17,” Elasky says. “It’s shocking what you can get, period, in Spain.”

Wine Space

The Refectory stores wine in four primary places. the wine cellar  A private dining room-wine cellar below the main dining room. The room is kept cool except for parties, when the temperature is bumped up for comfort. “Right here, I’m going to put things that move pretty quickly, and I’m not going to worry that the temperature fluctuates a little bit,” Elasky says. temperature-controlled cabinet

“In that, we have our Domaine de la Romanee-Conti,” Elasky says, uttering the hallowed name of one of the world’s most renowned wine estates. “They’re investments, and you’ve got to take care of them.” In the ’90s, the restaurant bought a mixed case of wines from the estate for $1,200 or $1,500. The last bottle sold last year for $4,800. “The guy who bought it, he has a great cellar. He drinks great wine all the time. And it shocked him how good it was,” he says. “That’s what you’re hoping for. Was I sad that last bottle left? Not necessarily. We sold it and if someone said it was ungodly [good], we did our job.” adjacent to the wine cellar

This is a nondescript, long and narrow room where Elasky stores some cabernets. “The room is more solid as far as temperature; it doesn’t fluctuate over the year. There’s not a lot of rustling around. It’s just kind of a quiet, easy-going room.”

basement

“I’ve got some things in the basement, where they don’t get bumped around. They’re just down there, and the temperature won’t move more than 10 degrees, and they’re out of the way.” s p r i n g 2 0 1 5 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • 9 1

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Third & Hollywood

Until October 2013, servers at Third & Hollywood grabbed wine bottles from a nifty if low-tech in-wall storage space in the dining room. But after expanding into a former clay arts space, the Grandview restaurant added a temperature- and humidity-controlled wine wall that’s as beautiful as it is functional. Kevin Crowley is the beverage coordinator for Third & Hollywood, three Northstar cafes and, presumably, the to-be-announced concept for the former Betty’s space in the Short North also owned by Kevin and Katy Malhame. Crowley trained at the Culinary Institute of America but didn’t want to work on the line. He applies his culinary chops when shaping and developing Third & Hollywood’s growing wine list and cellar. “Kevin [Malhame] had always wanted this program developed more. This new wall was the excuse to start buying,” Crowley says. “We love to bring in wines that are great stories, that are a little more difficult to find in Columbus. We work very closely with a couple of our distributors to source near-exclusive to Columbus wines.” He points to Roco Stalker pinot noir and Anne Amie Winery’s Prisme white pinor noir—both from Oregon’s Willamette Valley as examples. While plenty of bottles on the Third & Hollywood list fall below $50, a few break the $100 mark. Crowley has worked to slowly expand the selection, which was heavy on pinot noir and chardonnay when he joined the company two years ago. Crowley seeks out wines that break with stereotypes (buttery and oaky chardonnay, overstuffed cabs) and that are made in unexpected places, like Santa Cruz, California, a city two hours south of Napa Valley known more for surfing than for wine. And, for the first time, Third & Hollywood’s cellar contains bottles that won’t be placed on the list for another few years. Customer service is a hallmark of Malhames’ restaurants, and it’s unsurprisingly the focus of the wine program at Third & Hollywood. Crowley repeatedly calls the wine list as approachable. “We’re doing a great job training our staff on how to sell these wines,” he says. “We want to strip all pretention from it. We open the bottle before it comes to the table—that takes some of the pressure off. If a customer doesn’t like the wine, it’s immediately replaced with something else.” thirdandhollywood.com

What beverage coordinator Kevin Crowley likes to drink at Third & Hollywood:

Q “I was here on New Year’s Eve and had the Pence Ranch [Sebastiano Vineyard] syrah.” Q “When my wife and I got married, we had the Sotor Brut Rose, so that holds a special place in my heart.”

Hidden Gem

Bedrock Evangelho Field Blend “They’re part of that collection of young winemakers who are finding obscure old vines and producing totally different examples of varietals than people are used to,” Crowley says. “And at $62, it’s a pretty approachable price.”

Q “Obviously, if I have $150, I’ll get an Arnot Roberts cab.” Q When the panfried fish is the special, he reaches for the Alphonse Mellot La Moussiere Sancerre. “It’s a phenomenal experience, just really fun.”

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The flooring in the wine room is made of natural cork; it’s one of several thoughtfully selected materials used in the back room (including pine reclaimed from river basins and mahogany certified by the Forest Stewardship Council), but this one is seen almost exclusively by staff.

“We’re starting to see more natural, native varietals in more obscure places like Amador County, the Central Coast, forgotten areas of Napa and Sonoma counties. Hopefully that’s the lasting impression of California wine. We’re starting to build a list that reflects that. It’s hard in Ohio to get your hands on something like that,” Crowley says.

The photography at Third & Hollywood, including the piece in the wine room, is by Columbus artist Tony Mendoza, whose work is in the collections of the Museum of Modern Art in New York, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the Columbus Museum of Art and the collection of local Ron Pizzuti (see more of Mendoza’s photography at the new Joseph hotel in the Short North). “He came in and talked to the staff about it,” Crowley says of Mendoza. “That’s his father. You have to read the little story behind it. In the bathroom, one of his cousins is starting right at you when you’re at the urinal.”

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professional students Q The stated goal of Alana’s wine program, according to Bertschi: “To serve wine that’s ready to serve.” Q Waxing philosophical: “Oxygen is the giver and taker of all life. It wants to make every one of these mother----ers into vinegar.” Q On Riesling: “It seeks out and represents what it grows in more than any other varietal I’ve tried. They’re fascinating wines.” Bertschi likes all Riesling, but he loves bottles from Austria and France’s Alsace region. Q The refrigerator that chills white wines at Alana’s is also a walk-in refrigerator for the restaurant. Eat in the wine room (you can and you should), and you’ll hear the knockknock of Shock or other cooks as they exit the walk-in—it’s restaurant etiquette for, “The door’s about to swing open. This is your warning to get out of the way.” Q Before Alana’s moved into the space at 2333 N. High St., north of Campus, another famous restaurant called the building home. George and Coralene Dimovich’s A La Carte was renowned for its Mediterranean cuisine and for George’s eye-popping wine cellar, filled with thousands of bottles. A wall in the basement is still decorated a la Dimovich with the sides of wooden wine crates, bearing titles like “Grand Vin de Lafite Rothschild,” “Joseph Drouhin” and “Chateau Rieussec.” Q Lately, Bertschi is jazzed about Vin Jaune (literally “yellow wine”), a rare oxidized wine from the Jura region of France. He’s just been given a bottle as a gift and can rattle off fascinating facts, including a few about the annual Vin Jaune festival: “It takes place this time of year. I read somewhere that there are a whole lot of silly hats and a whole lot of sensible shoes. I’d like to go to that festival someday. I bet there’s a good sort of camaraderie among the people.”

Alana’s Food & Wine

Kevin Bertschi was a beer guy who, as a rule, didn’t drink red wine before he and wife Alana Shock opened their restaurant. Fifteen years later, his first beverage love is Burgundy, red or white. “A well-made chardonnay from Burgundy, it can make you think. They’re thinkin’ wines. You contemplate them. You wonder how grape juice can taste like that,” he says. An evening at Alana’s feels experimental, spontaneous, eclectic and eccentric. Shock’s menu changes by the day and draws inspiration from all over the world. The restaurant’s wine cellar is predictable in some ways—it’s heavy on French and Italian selections but also pulls from Spain, Germany, Austria—but Bertschi manages it as someone who is constantly learning and who is driven by a desire to share that knowledge. “We taste a lot of stuff. That’s the best way to learn,” Bertschi says. “We have a server quiz every week or two. … The very last question will be something like, ‘What is there always to do when you find there’s nothing to do?’ The best answer for that is, ‘Learn s---.’ Look at all these books on food and wine. We have a library up front. I bring my iPad in to make it available.” The wine list changes frequently; if you see something you like, especially on the reserve “cave list,” order it or risk regret. Bertschi relishes growing and maturing the wine list, making wines available when he thinks they’re ready and holding on to cases in the basement cellar until they approach their peak. Like the food and ambience at Alana’s, storage of wine is rooted in solid knowledge and executed with an improvisational flair. Wines are organized in the main-floor wine room roughly by varietal and country of origin. A twisty vine-inspired wine rack under spotlights contains mostly pinot noir. Then there are racks of French and Italian reds, with stray solo bottles arrayed on top. In a refrigerator, whites are grouped by varietal, starting on the left with Rieslings and ending on the right with sparkling wines. The occasional beer and cider are tossed in for good measure. Wines on the cave list, a selection of older and more expensive wines, are kept in the basement cellar. “It’s a messy place, because a lot of those just aren’t going to be looked at,” Bertschi says. “They won’t be ready for five or 10 years, so I’m not going to put them out on the shelf to tempt me to sell them.” alanas.com

Q Extra-thirsty table for four? Feeling festive as all get out? Try the magnum of Chateauneuf-du-Pape on prominent display in the wine room, or ask Bertschi if he’s willing to sell another large-format bottle stored in the basement cellar. Q Bertschi keeps a rack of bottles in the basement cellar that he says are “basically not for sale.” Rare exceptions are made for regulars and wine lovers. 9 4 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

Your eyes do not deceive: That’s a bottle of Boone’s Farm’s finest on the vineinspired rack full of otherwise respectable wine.

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T 7 DAY

Taco Diet Story by beth stallings

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Short North and modern cantina Nada in the Arena District. There are so many choices you could practically live on tacos. Let me repeat: You could practically spend a week eating nothing but tacos and never repeat a single meal. To prove it could be done—and to show off the creative takes on tacos around the city—spending a week consuming only tacos is exactly what I did.

PHOTOS: BETH STALLINGS

In my best Zoolander impression, let me say this: Tacos are so hot right now. Tacos. They’ve always been a thing in Columbus; the West Side is smattered with authentic taco trucks, including one with a cult following for its neon-red al pastor. But suddenly it seems every gastropub, cantina and diner is serving a playful take on fixings inside a tortilla. Add to that the two taco-focused concepts that opened at the end of 2014—build-your-own Condado in the

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Ground

Rules

I set two important ground rules for this diet—a code of conduct to prevent palate fatigue and ensure I could consume maximum tacos:

No. 1: No chips and salsa. Unnecessary fillers must be avoided. No. 2: Variety isn’t merely the spice of life; it’s the savior of the palate. Mixing up styles of tacos throughout each day is crucial.

day 1: tuesday award-winning breakfast tacos ($10.25) at katalina’s

PHOTOS: KATALINA'S, JODI MILLER; THE KITCHEN and Condado, Meghan Ralston

Naysayers who dis the too-small Katalina’s, here’s an insider tip: Visit this Harrison West Latino gem on a weekday morning, when diners move in and out with fluidity. Tip No. 2: Skip the pancake balls, and go for the breakfast tacos. They’re exactly what breakfast tacos should be—fresh and big enough to fill you up, but not so big they weigh you down. The order includes three white corn tortillas filled with chorizo-flecked scrambled eggs. A smear of tomatillo sauce gives the tacos bite, pico de gallo some brightness, avocado richness and Snowville crème fraiche, reminiscent of Mexican crema, adds a sour, cooling taste. katalinascolumbus.com

Zucchini Tacos ($7.99 lunch special) at El Vaquero

As I was walking out of the office, a co-worker asked where I was off to on my tour. She was taken aback by the answer: I’d be lunching on vegetarian tacos at Columbus’ ubiquitous Mexican restaurant. I suppose I’d have had the same reaction—El Vaquero is the spot I think of when I want to satisfy my taste for nothing-fancy, cheese-andsauce-slathered Mexican food. On the flip side, El Vaquero’s Zucchini Tacos are like vegetarian fajitas without the sizzling skillet. The lunch portion includes two tortillas thrown on a griddle until slightly brown—they’re crisp but not crunchy—and filled with piping-hot sauteed veggies, including zucchini, yellow squash, tomatoes and onions, with the option of black beans or refried beans on the side. Broccoli coleslaw, one of my favorite un-fried, carb-free sides at El Vaquero, was also served on the side. vaquerorestaurant.com

Banh Mi tacos ($12) at Wolf’s Ridge Brewing

Taco Tuesday at The Kitchen

What’s fun about The Kitchen’s weekly taco Tuesday dinner is also what makes it a bit of a gamble: The theme and menu change each week. It may be inspired by the season, a movie, famous LGBT activists—whatever is the whim of owners Anne Boninsegna and Jen Lindsey. On the Tuesday I dropped in, the tacos paid tribute to children’s book author Mo Williams and his “Phinn & Harper” books. Stopping by around 8 p.m. (service is 5 to 9 p.m.), I was told I’d just missed a collection of hyper children. The kid-friendly focus is probably why the offerings were simple and familiar (including the Bus Driver with classic ground beef, tomato, lettuce and cheese). The standout was the corn tortilla-wrapped Dr. Cat ($4) with chunks of crusted, meaty salmon, dried cranberries and honey Dijon shallot sauce. On the downside, the brittle corn tortillas dissipated under moist fillings. Next time, I’ll go for flour. thekitchencolumbus.com

day 2:

wednesday

Breakfast Tacos at Cuco’s Taqueria

The taco gods are against me. This is what I think at 8 a.m., looking at Cuco’s breakfast menu. Online, there was a whole section of breakfast taco options. But on this laminated list of dishes, there’s no promise of eggs and meat in a tortilla. Thankfully, the server tells me they get off-the-menu orders for breakfast tacos all the time. They can mix just about any protein or veggie on the menu with eggs. Now we’re talking. I quickly order cactus and egg, machaca (shredded beef) and egg and chorizo and egg, all on soft and warm flour tortillas. Hands down, my first choice was this morning’s winner. Sauteed until tender, the cactus was slightly sour, a pleasant counterbalance to scrambled eggs, tomato, cheese and cilantro. The shredded beef—a hunk of tender pulled-apart beef tossed with eggs, peppers and onions— was a close second. cucostaqueria.com

The crux of a good banh mi hinges on one thing—crispy and soft French bread. I wondered if I would miss it in Wolf's Ridge Brewing's taco variation. Chef Seth Lassak must have anticipated this very thought, as the white corn tortillas are charred until spotted with blistery black bubbles. It added the perfect extra crunch. Inside, braised pork was tender, pickled carrots and radish crisp and fresh. Slices of jalapeno with half the seeds removed meant the tacos were sometimes spicy, sometimes not. Fatty and bright Sriracha aioli tied it all together. wolfsridgebrewing.com

Build-your-own (starts at $3) at Condado

Condado has proved polarizing. Some people love the sushi-style build-your-own menu. Others (ahem, husband) worry about creating the perfect combo. Sure, Condado is a little gimmicky (their shtick is double decker-style tacos adhered with schmears of guacamole, queso and sour cream). But whenever I visit with a group of friends, there are always wild debates over which sauce will pair best with which order. I like being in the driver’s seat here. My go-to: Sweet Lucy with braised beef brisket, jicama slaw, pickled red onions, smoked cheddar, corn salsa and chipotle honey, and the Goody-Goody with Thai chili tofu, black beans, red cabbage, queso fresco, pineapple salsa and cilantro-lime aioli. condadotacos.com

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features | food

day 3: thursday Huitlacoche ($4) at Bakersfield

Chicken tacos ($1.69 each) at La Michoacana #4

Today, I cheated a little—not on my diet (still 100 percent taco devout!)—on breakfast. I ate tacos, and I consumed them before 10 a.m.—so if we’re being technical, these egg-free tacos are available for breakfast. Head to the back of this strip-mall Mexican grocery store, across from the meat case, and sit at a long whitetiled counter for simple burritos, tacos and taquitos made right in front of you. You can see a cook (or at least hear him) frying up freshly diced chicken on a hot griddle. La Michoacana opens at 8 a.m. every day, as does the kitchen. Order whatever kind of taco you want—chicken, beef, pork—top it with diced white onion and cilantro and call it a day. Add some heat with the verde salsa that’s a little smoky and sneaky. It’s simple and classic and, frankly, what I needed to kick-start Day 3. michoacanamarket.com

A little palate fatigue is setting in. Not for the tacos themselves, but for the tortillas. Regardless of how good the taco fillings are (and so far, they've been pretty good), it’s been a little drab on the tortilla front. Nothing has been bad, per se—but they’ve been a little nondescript, slightly dry, assumingly prepackaged white corn varieties. The Short North’s Mexican-by-way-of-California cantina Bakersfield shook me from the rut. The soft, house-made corn tortillas are the biggest reason to visit this beer-in-a-boot-shaped-glass joint. Bakersfield’s tortillas are slightly pillowy and as pliable as a slice of warm bread. Even under heavy contents, you can pick them up without fear of the bottom falling out. Fill yours with the Huitlacoche—a corn truffle that’s spongy like a mushroom with a woody, almost fermented flavor reminiscent of fresh black truffles. If you’re feeling meat, get the savory braised short rib with crisp radishes. bakersfieldtacos.com

Carne Asada ($2.25) at Hass

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Fried Egg Tacos ($6, $8 with chorizo) at Philco

Philco’s Fried Egg Tacos are some of my favorite morning tacos. Though they defy one of my golden taco rules—you must be able to pick it up to eat it—I can’t help but love the bright flavors that hit all the high notes: salty, sweet and spicy. Here’s what’s piled on these fork-and-knife treasures: Corn and black bean salsa, Ohio cheddar, sour cream, salsa roja, corn tortilla and the option of adding chorizo (good and spicy, but not a must). Not bad for six bucks. Here is a secret: Order your egg over-medium. Why? It leaves the yolk gooey enough to create a silky sauce, but not so runny that it flows everywhere, meaning it won’t soggy up the tortilla. philcodiner.com

Sunny-sideup egg

*editor's tip Order your egg over-medium.

Corn and black bean salsa PHOTOS:tessa berg

Full disclosure: This stop is the one I was looking forward to most. I live about 20 minutes from Hass (basically across the world for Columbusites), so I don’t get here very often. Hass was my mid-diet treat. Why? If you have to ask, you haven’t been to this Mexican eatery off Sawmill Road. First, the aroma of wood-fired meats hangs heavy in the air. Then, there’s hospitable owner Israel Jimenez who works the dining room as if it’s his living room. Hass is a fast-casual spot with the vibe of a sit-down joint—and its recent expansion into the neighboring Mexican grocery encourages lingering even more. What to order: the firekissed Carne Asada with onions and cilantro ($2.25), pineappletopped, hot red al pastor ($1.75) and buttery, battered shrimp ($2.99) that somehow stays crisp even after it’s doused in mayo and cabbage slaw. 7370 Sawmill Road, Northwest Side, 614-760-0155

day 4: friday

sour cream salsa roja Cecina ($1.50) at Taqueria San Angel

chorizo

ohio cheddar

PHOTOS:meghan ralston

Cilantro

corn tortilla

“What’s your favorite?” As I ate my weight in tacos, I should have seen this question coming. I didn't intend to name a best taco of the week. Then I went to Taqueria San Angel—a food truck permanently parked outside an auto-parts store on Sullivant Avenue. The tacos are nothing fancy. Corn tortillas, a meat of your choice, chopped white onions and cilantro that’ll sit on your breath the rest of the day. But they are wonderful. I was charmed by San Angel the second one of the Oaxaca-native owners handed me a Styrofoam cup of dessert-like avena (hot stewed milk with oatmeal, cinnamon and clove) and I caught a glimpse of a line cook rolling balls of white maize by hand. Real tortillas. Rolled by hand. Yes! What I got were soft and flexible tortillas with a slightly bumpy texture as charming as homemade lumpy mashed potatoes. The styles vary day to day, but you’ll most certainly find uncommon fillings, like chicharron and cecina (salted and dried meat), all worth a try. 4005 Sullivant Ave., West Side

Crispy Pork Belly ($15) at Nada

Talk about going from one extreme to the other. Earlier today, I was enjoying amazing tacos in a humble setting. Tonight, I’m at bustling and polished Nada, a contemporary cantina that opened in December in the Arena District. It’s the sister to a popular outpost in Cincinnati; our local version is outfitted with fewer entrees and more tacos. They’re designed to be fancier culinary fare, obvious from atypical choices like Grilled Salmon with chipotle crema and the beef short rib-based Barbacoa. I ordered Crispy Pork Belly—a rich option, my server warned, before suggesting I add a fried egg. Sold. Thick and meaty slices of pork belly were glued to the center of each taco with guacamole, pickled peppers and onions and a pop of cilantro. Nada wins on presentation—each trio of tacos (choose from a list of 10 options) is cradled into a wide slit on long wooden boards, meaning you can put them down at will. Nada also had the best boozy chasers of my diet. Go for the spicy and refreshing Chile Mango Margarita. eatdrinknada.com

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features | food

day 5: saturday Cantina Fish taco ($3.50) at Local Cantina

8 bonus: All tacos are $2 all day Tuesdays. 1 0 0 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

PHOTO:meghan ralston

I consider myself a bit of a fish taco snob. Too often eateries do nothing more than toss soggy fried fish and a splash of salsa on a tortilla and slide it across the table as if it’s a passable rendition. No thanks. There’s an art to a great fish taco. You need big chunks of meaty, crispy battered fish. There must be some sort of slaw or crisp lettuce for brightness and a crumble of white cheese for salinity. And, most importantly, it needs a kicky, fatty sauce (preferably of the chipotle variety) to weave it together. The beer-loving and mustachioed Local Cantina should teach a class on how to hit a home run every time. The Cantina Fish is one of the best fish tacos I’ve had in town. It features one long filet of crispy fish smothered in an oniony jalapeno slaw and a healthy dose of bright orange chipotle cream. localcantina.com

day 6:

sunday Fried Egg Tacos ($8, $10 with chorizo or sausage) at Explorers Club

PHOTOS:strongwater and los guachos, tessa berg; arepazo, meghan ralston

Jackfruit Taco ($3.50) at Strongwater Food and Spirits

The first dish I ever tried at Strongwater was the jackfruit taco. I loved it so much I named it dish of the week in my newsletter, praising the use of an uncommon fruit (common in southeast Asia) that’s meaty like pulled chicken and sweet like mango. For months, I brought friends to the hipster Franklinton bar simply to try this vegan small plate. That’s why Strongwater was on my taco week schedule. I couldn’t wait to try the latest rendition of this taco, with Sriracha slaw and chimichurri rioja. But what I got was a lifeless dry tortilla and fillings lacking oomph. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t memorable, either. The same goes for the other tacos I tried (choose among four options), including a shredded pork taco that was generous on the meat but void of moisture and sauce. The new chef must have similar suspicions; we hear Strongwater’s replacing the taco menu with an array of steam buns—a smart move, since tacos no longer seem to be Strongwater’s forte. Regardless, this won’t prevent me from stopping by for a cocktail and a chance to soak up the vibe. strongwatercolumbus.com

Fried egg. Cheese. Tortilla. That’s about as simple as it gets, and it’s exactly what is served for brunch at the Merion Village eatery that’s always hopping on weekend mornings. After nearly a week of trying all kinds of crazily sauced, ingredients-heavy tacos, this easy combo was oddly comforting. The tortillas were crisp but not too crunchy. The eggs were just a touch runny in the center and oozing with melted jack cheese. A side of punchy tomatillo salsa added zip. The dish comes with a choice of potatoes or black beans on the side. My advice: Go for the blacks beans and pile them into your tortilla instead of opting for an add-on of chorizo or sausage. Oh, and add a spicy bloody mary to round out your meal. explorersclubmv.com

day 7: monday Breakfast Tacos ($6) at Ethyl & Tank

I’d originally pegged this Campus bar and coffee shop as stop No. 1 on my tour. But upon stopping by seven days prior, I found the kitchen closed for breakfast until Ohio State students were back from winter break. Now, it’s the following Monday at 7:45 a.m., and the doors are locked. It’s dark inside. Chairs are overturned on tables. To make sure I didn’t miss this spot again, I called the day before and was assured they’d be open for breakfast. Their Facebook page said 7 a.m. What was I missing? You almost got me a second time, Ethyl & Tank. Fifteen minutes later, the doors opened. They’ve been meaning to change the opening hours online, the server told me. At this point, I was more relieved than frustrated—and when I got my last breakfast tacos of the week, I nearly forgot the whole ordeal. The tacos are filled to the brim with scrambled eggs, black bean and corn salsa and a super-smart cilantro sour cream. ethylandtank.com

Al Pastor ($1.50) at Los Guachos

It wouldn’t be a Columbus taco crawl if I didn’t make it to this spot with a cult following. I capped off my week at Los Guachos because on Mondays, al pastor tacos are buy one, get one free. I’m thankful I took an early lunch because, by the time I grabbed a table at the Gahanna outpost, the line was nearly out the door, as if some invisible lunch whistle had sounded. The popularity is deserved; Los Guachos really does serve some of the best spiced and slow-cooked pork around. Every order comes with a show, as you can watch as tender slices are chipped off of a rotisserie onto two corn tortillas (and eagerly hope the order up is yours). Topped with pineapple, onion, cilantro and a dollop of hot sauce, these should be on every taco lover’s must-try list. los-guachos.com

Baja-Style tacos ($2.50 each) at Yabo’s Tacos

I didn’t have high hopes for Yabo’s Tacos the first time I ate here. Meeting friends who live down the street in Westerville, we “settled” for dinner here becasuse it was the closest restaurant. The thought still makes me laugh because when a Yabo's eventually opened closer to my house, I rejoiced. This is my goto, no-fuss Americanized-Mexican place when all I want is a beer and a good, filling bite to eat. It was a must-stop on my tour because I knew, going into my last day, I needed comforting food. What I love most at Yabo's are the shredded meats that have deep, cooked-forhours tenderness. Pulled pork is as good as it gets on a flour tortilla with pico de gallo, cilantro and feta cheese. Finish it with a healthy squirt of smoky and spicy Lip-Smackin’ Chipotle—one of Yabo’s six specialty sauces. yabostacos.com

Ahi Tune Tartare Tacos ($13) at Arepazo Tapas Bar & Grille

Ending the week was bittersweet. Surprisingly, I wasn’t tired of tacos. I’d barely had a bad one in the bunch and, thanks to social media and reader recommendations, I had new taco spots to check out. I didn’t realize how much I wanted a break from soft corn tortillas and chorizo until a server set three crisp Ahi Tuna Tartare Tacos in front of me at Arepazo Tapas Bar & Grille—the latest eatery in the South American-inspired Arepazo group. Corn tortillas are fried until crisp like wontons and served on a metal tray. What could be considered an obnoxious amount of chilled ahi tuna tartare practically oozed from each taco. Jicama slaw (which added a watery freshness), guacamole and the restaurant’s famous herbaceous cilantro sauce topped them off. I’m not sure I’d recommend tackling all three tacos alone—it’s a lot of food—but as a shared plate, it’s downright perfect. A fresh end to a filling week. elarepazolatingrill.com s p r i n g 2 0 1 5 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • 1 0 1

feature | drink Manhattan at Curio

Speak Easy

C l a s s i c C o c k ta i l S e c r e t s R e v e a l e d

Which fruits do you (and don’t you) muddle in an old-fashioned? How do you temper the brandy in a sidecar? Just how much absinthe goes into a Sazerac? If you’ve ever marveled at the history surrounding tried-and-true cocktails, you’re not alone. We tapped some of the most studious bartenders across Columbus to get to the bottom of these questions and the secrets that elevate a classic from memorable to unforgettable. Story by anthony dominic Photo: Tim Johnson

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Old-Fashioned V e r i tas Tav e r n , D e l awa r e

Q Per 19th-century accounts out of New York and Chicago, the oldfashioned is meant to be a cocktail in its simplest form: spirit, sugar, water, bitters. But over 130odd years, the recipe has been muddled more than the cherry carcasses found too often floating l 2.5 ounces in your glass. (Sorry, Don Hochstadter’s Slow Draper.) Veritas Tavern and Low Rock & Rye bar manager Nicole whiskey l 1 brown sugar cube Hollerman builds the l A few dashes Fee drink ($8) in an oldBrothers Whiskey fashioned glass, starting Barrel Bitters (just with a brown sugar cube enough to coat coated in Fee Brothers the cube) Whiskey Barrel-Aged l 1 giant ice cube Bitters. The bitters, she l Orange wheel for says, highlight the spice garnish notes in Hochstadter’s Slow and Low Rock & Rye whiskey—a rye preblended with rock candy syrup— of which she adds two and a half ounces after the sugar is good and pulverized. The drink is finished with a fat ice cube, a gentle stir and a skewered orange wheel. The glass won’t be brimming, and it doesn’t need to be. “Cocktails are kind of like art; negative space isn’t bad,” she says. “This gives you room for a nice nose.” veritastavern.com

Blood and Sand Photos: Left, Will Shilling; Center, Tim Johnson; Right, Will Shilling

P r ohi b i t io n Gas t r o Lo u n g e , P ow e l l

Q “Of all the cocktails out there, this one should be on every bartender’s need-to-know list,” Prohibition bar manager Nigal Vann says of the Blood and Sand ($10). The scotch-based cocktail is named after Rudolph Valentino’s 1922 bullfighting movie of the same name, Vann says; the Heering cherry liqueur and orange juice are meant to be indicative of spilled blood. (Vann warns against mistaking or substituting clear Luxardo cherry liqueur for brownish-red Heering, the latter being a decidedly sweeter, fruitl 1 ounce Dewar’s 12 forward liqueur.) For the Year Old scotch base, Vann prefers Dewar’s l 1 ounce Heering 12 Year Old Scotch, noting cherry liqueur the Blood and Sand isn’t l 1 ounce Carpano as much about scotch as Antica it is about balance. The l 1 ounce blood ingredients are shaken orange juice l Orange peel for and strained neat into a garnish coupe with an orange peel. prohibitiongastrolounge.com

Last Word

D e n m a r k o n H igh , Arena District

Aviation

M at M i r a n ova , D ow n tow n

Q Cris Dehlavi long settled for Creme de Violette in her aviations, but the violet liqueur never sat quite right. “It’s a very greedy spirit,” the M head bartender says. “Too much, and your drink smells like Grandma’s bathroom.” So when Creme Yvette—a lighter French liqueur made from berry fruits and dried violet petals— was put back into production after a 40-year dormancy, Dehlavi lobbied the Division of Liquor Control to list the product in Ohio. Now, it’s her signature ingredient in the gin-based cocktail. At M, she serves the Aviation ($14) two ways: traditional or bottled and carbonated. Both wow, but the former is an especially beautiful drink. Dehlavi layers the ingredients for depth of flavor, drizzling the Yvette down the side of the martini glass, where it rests below the gin, cherry liqueur and lemon juice. matmiranova.com

l 1.5 ounces Bombay Sapphire gin l 3/4 ounce lemon juice l 2 dashes Luxardo cherry liqueur l 2 dashes Creme Yvette l Lemon twist for garnish

Q Whenever a customer orders a Last Word ($11) at Denmark, a smile spreads across the face of bar manager James Patrick Moore. “You know they know fantastic cocktails,” he says. “It’s one of those really old, preProhibition cocktails. It’s not really comparable.” Moore uses Beefeater London Dry Gin as the base (“You don’t want a super botanical gin,” he says), along with Luxardo cherry liqueur, Green Chartreuse and lime juice. To mellow the flavors, particularly the medicinal qualities of chartreuse, he shakes in a little egg white. “It adds a nice, frothy texture and makes the drink a little less pungent, calms it down.” The drink is finished neat in a Champagne coupe with a squirt of lemon zest. denmarkonhigh.com l 3/4 ounce Beefeater London Dry Gin l 3/4 ounce Green Chartreuse l 3/4 ounce lime juice l 3/4 ounce Luxardo cherry liqueur l A dash of egg white l Lemon zest for garnish

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feature | drink

l 1 ounce Hayman’s Royal Dock gin l 1 ounce Campari l 1 ounce Cocchi Vermouth di Torino (sweet or Italian vermouth) l 1 giant ice cube l Flame-expressed orange oils for garnish

Negroni

l 2 ounces Smith & Cross Navy Strength rum l 3/4 ounce simple syrup l 3/4 ounce lime juice

M o u to n , Sh o rt N o rt h

Q The quintessential bitter cocktail is a cinch: equal parts Campari, gin and sweet vermouth. But the negroni’s true flavor is born from a smart marriage of the latter two ingredients, says Logan Demmy, bar manager at Mouton. He stirs the cocktail ($10) with Hayman’s Royal Dock gin, a stiff Navy-strength spirit, and Cocchi Vermouth di Torino. “I like the Torino style—a little bit of sweetness, and it has a heavier body than Dolin or Martini & Rossi,” he says. “It has a bit more chocolate cola notes.” The mixture can become unbalanced without ice, so Demmy serves his negroni on the rocks. The final touch—flame-expressed orange oil— is 50 percent garnish, 50 percent theatrics, he says. “We take a canoe, a slice of the peel that has a rigid structure, and hold it in front of flamed match so the oil is expressed through the fire.” mouton954.com

French 75

Th e M a r k e t I ta l i a n V i l l ag e , I ta l i a n V i l l ag e

l 2 ounces Plymouth Gin l Juice from half a lemon l Volume of simple syrup equal to that of the lemon juice l A head of brut Champagne or Mionetto Prosecco Brut

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T h e At h l e t i c C lu b of Co lu m b u s , D ow ntown

Q “The daiquiri just may be the most bastardized drink in the history of the world,” laughs Grant Bain, bar manager at The Athletic Club of Columbus. “I’ve seen them made with ice cream and syrup in a blender. Makes people think of cruise ships and beaches.” For his classic Daiquiri ($9), Bain turns to Smith & Cross Navy Strength rum for its banana and nutmeg flavors, then mixes it with simple syrup and fresh lime juice. The mixture is strained into a chilled rocks glass and served without a garnish. “It’s a delicate balance of sweet and sour,” he says. “Keeping it simple lets the ingredients shine through wonderfully.” (Note: To drink at The Athletic Club, you must be a club member or the guest of visiting a member.) accolumbus.com

Sidecar

S i d e ba r , D ow n tow n

QSure, the sidecar may be a cognac-based cocktail, but the trick, says Sidebar bar manager Chris Spinato, is to subdue the cognac, to wrestle the figgy brandy into a sweet mixture. So he shakes a mild cognac, Hennessy V.S, with rich simple syrup, lemon juice and half an ounce of Laird’s Apple Brandy. “The apple brandy adds a brighter quality to the cocktail,” he says. “It plays off the lemon for a little more sweetness and makes the drink l 1.25 ounces less big [alcohol-wise].” Hennessy V.S Lastly, a careful blend Cognac of Angostura and house l 1/2 ounce Laird’s orange bitters is added, the Apple Brandy l 1/2 ounce of 2:1 distinguishing touch of the simple syrup Sidebar Sidecar ($10.25). l 1/2 ounce lemon “That blend is just right and juice brings out the cocktail’s l 5 dashes house spice notes,” Spinato says. orange bitters “Bartenders, people in the l 5 dashes know, this is a sidecar they Angostura bitters prefer, and we’re proud of l Orange peel oils that.” sidebarcolumbus.com for garnish, fragrance

Photos: Left, Will Shilling; Center, tessa berg; Right, jodi miller

Q Don’t let the bubbly fool you; the French 75 is as boozy as they come. David Moore builds The Market Italian Village’s 75 ($10) with equal parts lemon juice and simple syrup and 2 ounces of Plymouth Gin, which the general manager prefers for its mild juniper profile. The ingredients are shaken with ice, strained into a Champagne flute and topped with sparkling wine. When The Market opened last year, Moore was topping the cocktails with brut (bone-dry) Champagne, but he recently turned to Mionetto Prosecco Brut. “It has a big floral nose but is still a nice, dry sparkling white wine,” he says. “It’s a well-balanced sparkling wine, too, which works well with the cocktail’s level of both acidity and sweetness.” themarketiv.com

Daiquiri

Vieux Carre

G iu s e p p e ’ s R it r ovo, B e xl e y

Q Order Sean Ward’s Vieux Carre ($14), and the beverage director at Giuseppe’s will produce a chilled 6-ounce flask from his bar fridge. Using a funnel, he pre-batches the boozy cocktail: 2 ounces rye whiskey, sweet vermouth and cognac, a bar spoon of Benedictine French liqueur and two dashes each of Peychaud’s and Angostura bitters. The generous measurements amount to that of two cocktails, especially as the mixture is never diluted with ice. “Not introducing water really showcases the complexity of all the spirts,” he says. “It was produced originally in the late 1930s in the French Quarter, and you can tell—the beautiful notes of vermouth, nice, smooth cognac on the tongue, the Creole and allspice bitters. You get all those nuances.” giuseppesritrovo.com

Photo: Tim Johnson

l 2 ounces Bulleit rye l 2 ounces Carpano Antica sweet vermouth l 2 ounces Hennessey Cognac l 1 bar spoon of Benedictine liqueur l 2 dashes Angostura bitters l 2 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters

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feature | drink

Manhattan C u r i o, G e r m an Village

Sazerac

H y d e Pa r k P r im e S t e a k h o u se , Sh o rt N ort h

l 3/4 ounce Bombay Sapphire gin 3/4 ounce Cointreau l 3/4 ounce Cocchi Americano wine l 1/2 ounce lemon juice l 1/4 ounce simple syrup l A dash of absinthe l Lemon twist for garnish

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H i n k l e y ’ s , M a rysv i l l e

Q True to their name, corpse reviver cocktails were longtime hair-of-thedog drinks, dating back to the mid-19th century. Perhaps the most popular recipe to survive is the No. 2, distinguished by its use of absinthe. Hinkley’s bar manager Todd Adam (also of Hyde Park Prime Steakhouse) starts his No. 2 ($11) with threequarters of an ounce of Bombay Sapphire gin. “Sapphire is more of a mixing gin to me,” he says. “Gin is a unique beast, and you don’t want it to overpower the other flavors at play.” It’s shaken with Cointreau, Cocchi Americano wine, lemon juice and simple syrup, before being strained into a chilled, absinthe-rinsed martini glass. “Just swirl and discard,” he says of the absinthe. “You don’t want it to stick around.” Adam finishes his No. 2 with a lemon twist. hinkleysoh.com

l 2 ounces Elijah Craig 12 Year Old Bourbon l 1 ounce Carpano Antica sweet vermouth l 2 dashes Angostura bitters l Skewered Luxardo Gourmet Maraschino Cherries for garnish

Photo: tim johnson

Q Absinthe is volatile. When Hyde Park bartender Todd Adam builds a Sazerac ($10.50), he packs a rocks glass with ice and adds a “very, very finite amount” of the herbal spirit. “A little bit of absinthe goes a long, long way,” he says. In a separate shaker, Adam stirs Bulleit rye whiskey, half an ounce of simple syrup and three dashes of Peychaud’s Bitters. Before pouring into the rocks glass, he gives its contents a stir, too, and then discards the ice and absinthe; both have done their job. The chilled, scented glass is, at last, garnished with a lemon twist. “I will put the discarded ice on the side with a pair of tongs,” he says. “It’s something nice. That way the guest, if they want a cube or two, can chill their drink.” hydeparkrestaurants.com

Corpse Reviver No. 2 l 2 ounces Bulleit rye whiskey l 1/2 ounce simple syrup l 3 dashes Peychaud’s Bitters l Splash absinthe

Q Perhaps no classic is better known than the Manhattan. Its origins are widely disputed, but Curio bar manager Rebecca Monday believes the whiskey-based drink was created in 1870 at The Manhattan Club in New York City for Lady Randolph Churchill, the mother of Winston Churchill. Several variations are served at Curio—one is carbonated and mixed with Cynar; another is mixed with Fernet Branca—but the classic is built with Elijah Craig 12 Year Old Bourbon, Carpano Antica sweet vermouth and Angostura or comparable house bitters. (Monday, who prefers rye to bourbon in Manhattans, will serve this stiffer take upon request.) The mixture is stirred and strained as you like it: neat in a chilled coup, or over two fat cubes in a rocks glass. Both renditions are garnished with skewered Luxardo Gourmet Maraschino Cherries. curioatharvest.com

Speci nn gat s eucrtei odni s h e s Speci al al s ea c dv t i oenrt| is i g

DISHES Chefs share the secrets behind dinersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; favorite menu items.

Speci al s ec t i o n | s i g n at u r e d i s h e s

89 Fish & Grill W

hen it comes to menu items, 89 Fish & Grill executive chef John Beck is constantly fishing for new ideas. The Arena District restaurant’s menu changes twice a year to showcase the flavors of the season. But there are a few big fish that they’ll never throw back. “Since we opened, we have developed a few customer favorites that don’t come off the menu,” Beck says. “If we took them away, people would be mad.” —Jackie Mantey

Is it one of your favorite items to make? I like making everything on our menu. I don’t really have a favorite.

How many of the Chilean Sea Bass do you sell a night? That depends. It can be a roller coaster depending on what is happening in the Arena District. What is another really popular menu item? The seared sea scallops made with demiglace and sage oil. They’re served with a truffle risotto made with real chicken stock. It is quite a nice dish.

 Chef John Beck enjoys checking out local restaurants. “When you work 13 hours a day, six days a week, you don’t get much of a life. I rarely ever cook when I’m at home,” he says. “We’ll go to restaurants in Victorian Village or local places on High Street. Some of my former sous chefs now work in the Short North, so we’ll go to their restaurants.”  Beck plays guitar. Learning songs his wife and kids request to hear is one of his spare-time goals. “I own a whole slew of guitars, maybe seven or eight,” he says. His favorite? His Martin.

 89 E. Nationwide Blvd., Arena District, 614-586-4585, 89fish.com

Photos: tim johnson

What is your signature dish and why? The most popular is the Chilean Sea Bass. It is marinated in a ginger garlic soy sake and pan seared, so it’s caramelized on the outside. You could tap it with a spoon, and it just falls apart.

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Barcelona

Photos: Maddie McGarvey

panish paprika, in all its forms—hot, smoked or sweet—is a go-to spice for chef Jacob Hough at the long-standing German Village tapas destination Barcelona. Striving for authenticity and seasonality through careful ingredient sourcing and drawing inspiration from his travels, Hough brings new offerings to the menu and evolves signature dishes at the same time. —Renee Casteel Cook

If you had to pick a signature dish at Barcelona, what would it be and what makes it special? Paella. We have four variations, but the Barcelona is the signature and a menu staple. It features chicken, chorizo, shrimp, squid, clams and mussels with calasparra rice, a change we made from another type of rice, as it is authentic to Spanish cuisine. It involves a base sofrito [a blend of onions and at least three types of peppers] that takes two hours to prepare. Our Paella for Four is really fun for a group and an extra special presentation. We encourage sharing across the menu as it’s key in Spanish culture. How often does the menu change? We try to highlight seasonality and even have a

Taste menu that consists of seven different items each week. Right now one of my favorite things is the Cerdo, a crispy braised pork shank with caramelized Brussels sprouts, curry potato puree and rosemary mushroom sauce—it’s very much my style—homey, warm and rich, but with bold flavors. Where do you seek inspiration for new dishes? Cookbooks, online and, when possible, travel. We have a beef cheek dish inspired by Le Pigeon in Portland that customers have really embraced, and a short-rib tapa influenced by chef Jose Garces. We look to put a Spanish twist on things via ingredients such as using saffron in a broth and even have a Spanish

sandwich, called a bocadillo, which is a twist on a gyro. We also like to experiment and just got a sous vide machine. How can customers learn more about Spanish cuisine? We offer a monthly cooking class series that’s a demonstration of a technique, or based on a theme such as pork. It’s fun and interactive and guests get to take home the recipes to try themselves.

did you know?  Chef Jacob Hough cites Chicago, Philadelphia and Portland as his biggest inspiration cities.  He loves cooking with all things pork, be it a shank, belly or chop.  He’s most interested in studying cuisine from the Castile-Leon, Granada and Basque Country regions in Spain.

 263 E. Whittier St., German Village, 614-443-3699, barcelonacolumbus.com

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The Crest

estled in the close-knit community of Clintonville, The Crest menu blends a respect for tradition with a flair for the unusual. Head chef Julian Menaged moved from The Crest’s sister establishment, The Market Italian Village in fall 2014 and now leads the gastropub’s culinary team in an effort to feed their neighbors well. —Kristin Campbell What is one dish that best reflects you and your restaurant? The Ohio Pot Pie. It is like a traditional pot pie—it has a puff pastry top, and inside it has vegetables and onions in a creamy veloute. We use a chicken base finished with cream, and we braise chicken thighs in white wine for several hours. It’s a classic cooking technique, but it is really approachable.

What are your favorite cuisines to cook? I really like Spanish tapas-style foods because it can be an opportunity to share. I think a lot of people see tapas as small plates, but really, they can be very shareable and more people can try them. I’d like to add that aspect to The Crest and create a menu that matches our incredible draft list.

did you know?  When Menaged is not at work, he still enjoys being in the kitchen. He experiments at home with less expensive cuts of meat, incredibly precise knife techniques and interesting new flavor profiles to help hone his skills and spark creativity.  As the child of a Syrian father and Puerto Rican mother, Menaged was exposed early to flavorful food and varied techniques. He credits that, and a family connection to culinary legend James Beard, as factors that pointed him toward his future career.  After moving from New York to Columbus as a teen, Menaged got his first job in a professional kitchen at age 14.

 2855 Indianola Ave., Clintonville, 614-261-7128, thecrestgastropub.com

Photos: Maddie McGarvey

What is the philosophy behind your cooking? I’m not attempting to change the whole concept. I want to introduce myself to the neighborhood and let them see my style. I like to stick with the fundamentals, because that is what cooking is all about. It is both an art and a science, but I feel

more like an artist. Our paints and canvas are our plates, produce and proteins and the farmers we work with. The key is trying not to overdo your products, because more isn’t always better. Sometimes the best way to show the beauty is to keep things simple.

Speci al s e c t i o n | s i g n at u r e d i s h e s

Hinkley’s

inkley’s opened in an 1800s Marysville mansion in June 2014, and the restaurant has already established a loyal following, with many patrons driving long distances to sample the fresh, local fare executed by executive chef Aaron Fischer and his team. —Kristin Campbell

Photos: tim johnson

Is there one dish you consider a signature menu item? The 318 Chicken and Waffle. We make our own Belgian-style waffle fresh with every order, and we use an Amish-raised Gerber chicken thigh, which stays a little juicier than a breast. We have a special blend of cornmeal, flour and spices and serve it with a Watershed bourbon caramel sauce and black-pepper whipped cream. It is both sweet and spicy, and it helps balance the dish. How do you design a menu? A lot of our menu decisions are based on seasonal ingredients. In the winter, we may serve more braised meats. In the spring, people want to eat a little lighter, so we do more sauteing and grilling. We plan to make

changes at least four times a year, based on the seasons. We use all Ohio meats and try to source all of our ingredients locally whenever possible. What new style, technique or cuisine do you want to find time to tackle? I’m interested in the newer molecular cooking techniques, using foams and infusions. [Recently] we had a wine dinner and had a seafood soup on the menu. Just before serving, we covered the soup and infused it with apple-wood smoke using a smoking gun. Just before eating, the diners removed the covers and a puff of smoke rose up from the soup. We are also looking into sous vide, and then our own charcuterie might be next.

did you know?  Fischer is most familiar with American cuisine but never shies away from adding influences from other cultures and cuisines.  Hinkley’s inaugural menu, which included twists on classic American dishes, was designed in a single day by Fischer and Hinkley’s sous chef, Nathan Endres.  Fischer has been cooking since he was a boy, when he would experiment with seasonings on his lunchbox sandwiches.

 318 E. Fifth St., Marysville, 937-553-9030, hinkleysoh.com

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Signature veal osso bucco with gremolata

Chef John Aldridge

1 Linden Alley c1911

fter almost three years of searching, the owners of Brews Cafe in Granville realized the perfect spot was sitting on top of them. The third floor space above their beerfocused brewpub had previously been used as an extra bar for live music events. But with a focused renovation, the space was transformed into wine-centric 1 Linden Alley c1911. Granville residents, and former Nona restaurant devotees, can welcome back a Mediterranean-inspired menu from owner Jerry Martin and his team. —Renee Casteel Cook and charcuterie from [those areas], as well as local and house-made accompaniments, such as honey and preserves. From our Basque Chicken with rice to the Cioppino, a fish stew with cracked Dungeness crab, shrimp, white fish, mussels, clams, bay scallops and calamari in a hearty tomato sauce over fresh linguine, the entrees draw from various regions.

Your previous restaurant, Nona, was Italian. But Linden Alley features dishes from other countries, too. France and Spain also serve as influences. Traveling these areas of the Mediterranean has expanded our approach and knowledge, and we’ll feature cheeses

Seasonality is a key feature of Mediterranean cuisine. Will you incorporate this into your menu? Definitely. We’ll have a core main menu but embrace seasonal entrees that feature unique proteins such as bison, wild boar, lamb, duck, possibly rabbit and even

 116 East Broadway, Granville, 740-587-1017

did you know?  In the spring, 1 Linden Alley will offer wine tastings and pairing dinners.  The restaurant takes its name from the street you enter on; an alley the owners named as it leads to Linden Place behind the building.  The original two-story structure dates back to the 1870s, but the third floor was added later by the Freemasons, prompting the addition of “circa 1911” to pay homage.

Photos: Maddie McGarvey

You’ve been focused on beer and pub food. Are you excited to bring a more refined offering? We believe there’s a market for a casual setting with upscale food currently missing in Granville. We’re small and laid back, not white tablecloth, with a welcoming atmosphere for those who come in for wine and cheese, as well as customers interested in a full sit-down meal.

pheasant. We recently did a quail dish that was so well received it sold out, so we’ll likely bring it back. We’re excited that our customers are open to these types of dishes and our strong purveyor relationships give us access to unique ingredients. Our chef is also pickling vegetables we get from a farm just a mile away and preserving jams in house.

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Matt the Miller’s

Photos: Maddie McGarvey

ntil the 1980s, shrimp and grits was an obscure dish Southerners ate, and mostly for breakfast. Today it’s seemingly a culinary staple across the country, and the creamy, spicy, ham-topped version served at Matt the Miller’s is one of the restaurant’s most popular items, says Joe Vavrek, executive chef at the Gemini location. The menu is continuously in flux. “I am offered a lot of creativity when planning our weekly specials,” he says. “We’re still kind of defining what we can be.” With locations in Dublin, Grandview and Polaris, you have many ways to taste the developing identity of Matt the Miller’s. —Jackie Mantey What’s your signature dish and why? That would have to be our shrimp and grits. We use white cheddar grits and tasso ham served with a Cajun cream sauce and sauteed sweet peppers and onions. You’ll get a little heat from the tasso ham and a bit of salt from the shrimp. It just kind of pops when you eat it; it’s a good gateway for the other items we do here. What do you consider when planning weekly specials? The specials can turn into menu items, so they have to be something acceptable for the guests. As we are a gastropub, the items also have to pair well

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with our beers. We sometimes use beer in our cooking as well.

 Chef Joe Vavrek has a green thumb. In season, he has a full-scale garden he grows from seed, including squash and zucchini.

What do you mean by making the dishes “acceptable” for guests? We want them to be upscale but also something the average guest who doesn’t know what to expect can understand, without being too pretentious or stuffy. We have an interesting niche of food. We sell a lot of casual foods, like sandwiches and flatbreads, but we also have a lot of highend options. Our fish is wild and butchered in house, and we sell a lot of steaks. We have something for everybody.

 The restaurant was named after a tavern in Kilkenny, Ireland. The jovial, historic atmosphere of the original Matt the Miller’s comes with a side of lore; condemned men of the village heading to the gallows would get one last drink and meal there.  Matt the Miller’s restaurants also offer a kids menu that will give your kiddos refined taste buds in training. Of note: the cookies-and-cream-topped Lil’ Brady Brownie, so named after Brady Daniel, the fictional Miller’s apprentice.

 1400 Grandview Ave., Grandview, 614-754-1026; 6725 Avery-Muirfield Drive, Dublin, 614-799-9100; 1436 Gemini Place, Polaris, 614-841-4430, mtmtavern.com

Speci al s ec t i o n | s i g n at u r e d i s h e s

The Old Mohawk

hen an eight-year tenure makes you the new guy, you know you’re part of a place with history. This couldn’t be truer for The Old Mohawk manager Chris Pack. But most of his staff, even with decades at the German Village eatery between them, hasn’t seen what the walls in this historical pub hold. Their stories date from its 1905 opening as a general store and saloon, through Prohibition-era visits from Al Capone, to the rebirth of the neighborhood; and all with dishes that have stood the test of time. —Renee Casteel Cook which explains the unique combination of ingredients that somehow really work together: grilled roast beef, homemade chicken salad and Swiss cheese on marble rye topped with signature MoMo Sauce with caraway and horseradish. The Bratwurst Sandwich and Dinner are classics as well, featuring brats from Carles of Bucyrus, a long time purveyor from the “brat capital of the U.S.”

What other dishes are tried and true? The Mother Mohawk has been on the menu for 30-plus years. It was originally invented in after-hours experimentation,

Where do you get inspiration for new menu items? Our strong Hispanic crew has brought their influence, and the menu now features an entire section of quesadillas, a

did you know?  The Old Mohawk is closed only four days out of the year and has multiple regulars who eat there at least once a day.  Original owner Myles Elk passed away inside the restaurant in 1947. Severely overweight at the time of his death, part of the building had to be cut out to remove him.  Meatloaf, the Thursday special for more than 35 years, is a recipe passed down to current kitchen manager Tammy Hickey, from her mother Bea, who started working in the kitchen in 1974.

819 Mohawk St., German Village, 614-444-7204, theoldmohawk.com

Photos: Meghan ralston

So there was once a turtle pen in the basement? Yes, in the 1930s when this dish originated, people from the neighborhood would catch and sell them to the restaurant for Turtle Soup, as well as a fried snapping turtle dish we no longer serve. The pen is gone, but the scratch made, vegetable based soup is still a staple and favorite, featuring seven types of meat found in a turtle.

taco salad, burritos and even specials such as chimichangas and fish tacos. We even have a taco wrap, and a version of a Sloppy Joe called a Sloppy Jose. Our house-made salsa, tomatillo sauce and corn chips make our nachos special as well.

Speci al s e c t i o n | s i g n at u r e d i s h e s

pizza house

Photos: Maddie McGarvey

ifty-two years might be long enough to call a dish signature, but many of the recipes at Pizza House, which opened in 1961, go back much further. They’ve been passed down through generations of owner Billy Colasante’s family and are now traditions carried on by himself, two sons, Rodd and Todd, and a granddaughter, Dakota, at the Clintonville institution. —Renee Casteel Cook

The name says Pizza House, but the menu offers much more. Which other specialties are favorites? Our lasagna is a family recipe that’s never changed. It’s what Grandma used to make for holidays and it has our own blend of ricotta, ground meat and noodles topped with provolone. We average 45 orders per week and always have another tray prepared just in case. Italian wedding soup is seasonal and customers stock up near the end of March. Have you added any recipes of your own over the years? I draw inspiration from trips to Florida where I saw a pesto pizza and thought it looked pretty with lots of color. Ours has spinach, tomato and feta and is very popular. We’ve experimented with our

white sauce, which has garlic and olive oil, by adding mushrooms, making it unique.

oil, garlic and spices, not ranch [dressing]. Our longevity is because we’ve stayed with our original recipes and kept making them perfect, not cheapening product or shrinking portions. Our customers get what they expect for their dollar and we take pride in offering that consistency.

How has the menu changed over time? The menu has grown five times since 1961 when it was a few pizzas, subs, pastas and salads; now, we have a wider array of those, plus appetizers and family dinners. We got calls asking for gluten-free, so we focused on the pizza and pastas; once we started offering it, all of the big chains followed, but we were before them.

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Is it difficult to evolve and still maintain authenticity? As we’ve grown, we’ve stayed consistent—always using fresh ingredients and making things the way they are supposed to be, like white pizza with olive

 Colasante is also an avid classic car guy, winning awards for his 1963 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible.

 Pizza House goes through 25 gallons a week of their signature Italian dressing, a family recipe from the 1960s.  Owner Billy Colasante’s wife created the name SnoBall for the cheese-covered meatball, which was at one time an off-menu starter.

 747 E. Lincoln Ave., Clintonville, 614-885-3121, pizzarestaurantcolumbusoh.com

Speci al s ec t i o n | s i g n at u r e d i s h e s

the refectory T

he Refectory on Bethel Road has a historic legacy as impressive as its wine cellar with more than 500 selections. Built in the mid-1800s, the building served as a school house and church. When the elegant French restaurant we know it as today opened in the 1980s, the former congregation was occasionally invited in as dinner guests. Chef Richard Blondin has helped helm The Refectory to its status as a premier purveyor of American and French cuisine while maintaining its brick-laden, historical charm. Here are some thoughts on the meals that have helped make it a staple. —Jackie Mantey

Why is it your signature dish? It’s popular because usually escargot is never served that way. If diners love escargot and then find out it’s in a terrine, it’s a very unusual

presentation. It’s in the shape of a perfect square and you can see the marbling of the veal mouse and the escargot. Any other signature dishes or items you like making? Our seasonal foie gras is very unique. It is not pan seared; we cure it in sea salt for 24 hours. After it is cleaned and prepared we form it into a cylindrical shape, wrap it in cheese cloth and bury it in sea salt. This cooks it without the heat.

 Chef Richard Blondin is from Lyon, France. His training pedigree includes tutelage under chefs Pierre Orsi and Paul Bocuse.  Blondin is also a master in his home kitchen as well. “Ninety percent of restaurants are closed on Sundays, my day off, so I mostly just eat at home,” he says. “I like taking all the leftovers and making something fancy out of them. And I’m not afraid to serve it to company!”  The Refectory’s delicate pear tart on puff pastry, topped with house-made pistachio ice cream, is another must-try. “We can’t keep up with them sometimes,” Blondin says. “It’s a very popular item.”

 1092 Bethel Road, Northwest Side, 614-451-9774, refectory.com

Photos: jodi miller

What is your signature dish at The Refectory? The escargot terrine. It is cooked with parsley and garlic butter and lined with a veal mousse that has cream, eggs and seasoning. It is layered with roasted shiitake mushrooms.

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Speci al s e c t i o n | s i g n at u r e d i s h e s

Sakura Japanese Steakhouse T Photos: Maddie McGarvey

here are plenty of options for dinner and a show at Easton Town Center, but if you want a little of both, cross Morse Road and enter Sakura Japanese Steakhouse. General manager Anita Chuang calls the restaurant a gathering place for teppanyaki, where a trained chef grills your meal on a flattop griddle right at your table. —Renee Casteel Cook

Teppanyaki is the style of cooking, while hibachi is the grill itself. What kind of dishes are prepared on the hibachi? [We have] chicken, steak, vegetables along with many seafood options including shrimp, calamari, lobster, tuna, salmon and scallop. As a steakhouse, we also have filet mignon, combination entrees and the Sakura Special that includes filet, chicken and lobster for one or two diners. In addition to the soup, salad, vegetables and steamed rice served with all entrees, the Sakura Special also includes a shrimp appetizer and shot of house plum wine (or a soft drink) and ice cream for dessert. What kinds of things do the hibachi chefs

do as part of the show? They perform tricks with their forks and spatulas with side dishes like eggs for the fried rice and creating a volcano out of onions. For birthday celebrations, the staff sings and brings out a pineapple cut into four, with sparklers for the guest of honor. Aside from the main course attraction, are there special appetizers to get the party started? Yes, we have shrimp and vegetable tempuras, pork gyoza and chicken and pork spring rolls. Also cooked on the grill are the shrimp appetizer and the egg yolk sauce that goes alongside it. We also have a special house sauce that accompanies the yakisoba side dish,

which is made up of lo mein noodles and vegetables, [and can be served] an alternative to steamed or fried white and brown rice.

did you know?  Open since 2008, Sakura Japanese Steakhouse fits up to 150 people, and has hosted events up to 100 people.  When Sakura’s five hibachi chefs spot local sports celebrities, they playfully compete to be the one to grill for the guest.  Every one of the restaurant’s tables has a built-in hibachi grill. Smaller tables are set for eight, and larger ones for groups up to 12.

 4210 Stelzer Road, Easton, 614-476-6088, sakuraeaston.com

Speci al s ec t i o n | s i g n at u r e d i s h e s

Strongwater Food & Spirits E

xecutive chef Anne Sheridan wants Strongwater Food and Spirits to offer something for everyone. Her menu features inventive but unfussy starters, meals from regions around the world and a breadth of vegan and gluten-free offerings. Her enthusiasm for cooking translates from the kitchen of this former manufacturing building to the hip dining room. —Kristin Campbell

How often does the menu change? We change the menu seasonally, while keeping the staples everyone loves. Spring and

summer are by far my favorite seasons because there is so much fresh produce available. We try to shop local as much as possible, and we have so many great farms in Ohio. That has made it is super easy. Where do you find inspiration for new creations? I read a lot of cookbooks. I take some of those ideas and then go to the market and just look around. There is nothing better than going to the farmers market and perusing all the goodness. There are a couple chefs in town whose careers I follow. They are always doing something super creative, and I love going to their restaurants. I know I am going to eat well, but I also love to see what they are working on. The flavor profiles are always evolving.

did you know?  Sheridan brings her creative talent to bear in her professional kitchen, but at home she prefers to keep things simple and fresh.  In West Virginia at age 16, Sheridan needed a job, and her restaurateur uncle had a job to offer. She fell in love with the pace and creativity of a professional kitchen and never looked back.  The Strongwater restaurant and kitchen was once used as office and storage space for its previous manufacturing tenants. The circa 1910 building was originally home to drinking fountain company D.A. Ebinger Sanitary Manufacturing.

 401 W. Town St., Franklinton, 614-928-3170, strongwatercolumbus.com

Photos: Meghan ralston

If you had to pick one signature dish, what would it be? I’m excited about the new steam buns on the menu. They are glutenfree, vegetarian rice flour buns that look a little like a taco, and you can put whatever goodness you want inside of them. We had been doing a taco and it seemed to be popular, but it feels like everyone is doing tacos. I wanted to try to change it up a little. We have four in the works: a seared tuna with pickled radishes; shredded jackfruit that’s a little spicy and served with a Sriracha slaw; pork belly; and chicken tempura.

the restaurant listings Restaurants mentioned in this issue of Crave 5. Basi Italia | Fine Dining | 811 Highland St., Victorian Village, 614-294-7383, basi-italia.com. Nestled in the heart of Victorian Village, Basi Italia serves clean, simple Italian fare with innovative twists in a setting so intimate, you’ll feel like the chef invited you over for dinner. Ranked as one of the city’s best restaurants since its opening, Basi offers one of the city’s coziest patios. D $$

1. Rigsby’s Kitchen | Fine Dining | 698 N. High St., Short North, 614-461-7888, rigsbyskitchen.com. After more than two decades, Rigsby’s Kitchen remains fresh by regularly offering new and creative Italian and Mediterranean dishes, including an expanded list of small plates. D $$$ 2. Wolf’s Ridge Brewing | Contemporary American | 215 N. Fourth St., Downtown, 614-429-3936, wolfsridgebrewing.com. Chef Seth Lassak brings a mix of California and France to the menu at this Downtown brewpub, transforming fancier fare into everyday stars that pair well with beer. A former truck warehouseturned restaurant and brewery, the space is open and light with huge windows that allow diners to watch the brewers in action. BRLD $$$ 3. Veritas Tavern | Contemporary American | 15 E. Winter St., Delaware, 740-417-4074, veritas tavern.com. With its focus on modern cooking techniques, chef Josh Dalton’s Veritas is not only putting out some of the best-looking plates in town; he’s making some of the best-tasting food around, too. Expect a menu of small plates meticulously created by cooking geeks, plus an exhilarating cocktail list. D $$$

6. G. Michael’s Bistro & Bar | Fine Dining | 595 S. Third St., German Village, 614-464-0575, gmichaels bistro.com. This historic German Village eatery promises fine dining with a Lowcountry influence. Expect bold flavors in dishes layered with components and exceptional sauces. D $$$ 7. Alana’s Food & Wine | AMERICAN | 2333 N. High St., Campus, 614-294-6783, alanas.com. Chef and owner Alana Shock changes the menu of this funky Campus spot at her whim. The one thing that’s certain is her hyper-local food (and nightly Surprise entree) will satiate and entertain you. D $$$ 8. Kihachi Japanese Restaurant | Japanese | 2667 Federated Blvd., Northwest Side, 614-764-9040. Chef-owner Ryuji “Mike” Kimura’s passion for fresh, high-quality ingredients is reflected in his always changing authentic Japanese appetizer menu. D $$$ 9. Till Dynamic Fare | Contemporary American | 247 King Ave., Victorian Village, 614-298-9986, tillfare. com. Owner Magdiale Wolmark crafts a menu of inventive vegan and carnivorous fare incorporating ingredients grown in the backyard biodynamic garden. Expect American cuisine like Smoked Portabella Poutine, Ohio Lamb Burger and vegan Tofu Mac and Cheese. BRLD $$

4. Refectory Restaurant & Bistro | Fine dining | 1092 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-451-9774, refectory.com. The most accomplished of Columbus’ French restaurants, The Refectory might put more kitchen effort into a single plate than an ordinary restaurant does into an entire menu. Inside this church-turned-fine-dining spot, expect impeccable service and world-class wines to pair with your meal. D $$$$

10. The Worthington Inn | Fine dining | 649 High St., Worthington, 614-885-2600, worthingtoninn.com. The old parlors and bedrooms of this 19th-century Victorian inn have been restored into elegant dining rooms, making for an intimate setting to enjoy traditional and modern dishes. The hyper-seasonal menu is often inspired by what’s at the area farmers market or fresh from the Worthington Inn’s partner farms. Take a seat by the bar for the more casual pub menu. BRLD $$$

All information in these listings was supplied by the restaurants involved. A listing does not mean the restaurant is recommended by Crave. Email listing updates and corrections to editor Beth Stallings at bstallings@columbuscrave.com

Average entree $30 and more Average entree $21-$29 Average entree $11-$20 Average entree $10 and less

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Made-from-scratch contemporary southern cuisine. Whole, local ingredients. All-natural Gerber Chicken. Also serving Roast Chicken & gluten-free Fried Chicken. ®

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Breakfast Brunch Lunch Dinner

Each restaurant’s listing indicates whether it serves breakfast, lunch, brunch or dinner. The hours for any of these specific meals vary among restaurants; call for exact serving hours.

Scoop Alchemy Juice Bar & Cafe | Soup & Sandwiches | 625 Parsons Ave., East Side, 614-305-7551. This order-at-the-counter cafe in the lobby of a fitness center is no protein shake shack. It’s simple, healthy food that’s familiar and whole, with recipes created by a registered dietitian. The menu is vegetarian friendly and includes smoothies, toast, acai bowls and sandwiches, in addition to cold-pressed juice and grab-and-go salads and snacks. BLD $

Coppa Gelato | Coffee & desserts | 925 N. State St., Westerville, 614-776-4092. This gelato shop is family-owned and it shows, from welcoming service to more than a dozen flavors of gelato and sorbetto made daily from locally sourced milk. Owner Linda Warns-Davis spent more than a year perfecting her flavors, from pistachio made with Sicilian nuts to the kitschy-named Bourban Meyer, their take on butter pecan. Here, you’ll also find house-made pastries, coffee and espresso and pints of gelato to go. LD $

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GET STYLE

DareDevil Dogs | Pub Grub | 1437 N. High St., Campus, 614-454-4547. Hot dogs get a flavor upgrade at this 12-seat, order-at-the-counter eatery just south of Campus. Choose from specialty dogs, like the Fire Eater with a buttermilk fried chicken brat and Sriracha-orange buffalo sauce, or build your own from a variety of hot dogs, buns and house-made, locally sourced toppings, including giardinera, caramelized Brussels sprouts, pineapple guacamole and sous vide steak. Vegan and gluten-free options are available. LD $

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Hey Hey Bar and Grill | Pub Grub | 361 E. Whittier St., Merion Village, 614-445-9512. This dimly lit neighborhood pub dates back to the 1800s and hosts live music and the occasional comedy show. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s packed on any given night with locals and hipsters who flock here for the hearty beer selection and pub grub (order the famous sauerkraut balls) prepared by pop-up eatery Blu Olive. LD $$ Hofbrauhaus Columbus | GERMAN/BREWEY | 800 Goodale Blvd., Grandview, 614-294-2437. A splinter off the original Hofbrauhaus in Munich, Germany, this large brewpub serves German-style comfort food from sauasage to schnitzel along with huge steins of house-brewed beer. LD $$ Little Eater | Salads/Vegetarian | North Market, 59 Spruce St., Arena District, littleeater.com. Cara Mangini focuses on vegetables at her new North Market stand featuring fresh salads, sandwiches and baked goods. LD $

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Fox in the Snow Cafe | Coffee & Desserts | 1031 N. Fourth St., Italian Village. A bakery and coffee shop in Italian Village offering pastries made inhouse daily and coffee from Tandem Coffee Roasters. Shop owners have transformed a former garage into a bright and welcoming space with picture windows offering a view of the kitchen and counter seats at the coffee bar. BBRL $

*Price does not include applicable sales tax.

Rigsbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kitchen | Fine Dining | 698 N. High St., Short North, 614-461-7888. After more than two decades, Rigsbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kitchen remains fresh by regularly offering new and creative Italian and Mediterranean dishes, including an expanded list of small plates. Of note is the recent emphasis Rigsbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s has placed on its bar, offering craft cocktails with a focus on bitter Italian ingredients, and a clever bar food menu. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no wonder this Short North staple is consistently ranked among the best restaurants in town. D $$$ Toast Bar | BAKERY | 1028 Ridge St., Grandview, 614-928-9035. Bread-centric bakery Dan the Baker transforms its 10-seat storefront into a cafe specializing in artisan toast. Diners can choose from a selection of freshly made bread options and spreads (including house-made butter, almond butter and jams) to build a three-slice Toast Flight, or opt for one of the dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specials, such as almond butter and maple sugar on sunflower flax bread. Also available are fresh pastries and coffee. BL $ The Top Steak House | Steakhouse | 2891 E. Main St., Bexley, 614-231-8238. For 60 years, this Bexley palace of beef has offered award-winning, high-end cuisine (filet mignon, pork and lamb chops and seafood) in a dimly lit, vintage 1960s-looking haunt. D $$$ The Whitney House | Contemporary AMERICAN | 666 High St., Worthington, 614-396-7846. This sleek but welcoming neighborhood bistro offers unpretentious dishes with skillful execution. Good drinks and good value seal the deal. BRLD $$

Table Talk Addis Restaurant | Ethiopian | 3750 Cleveland Ave., Northeast Side, 614-269-8680. A relative newcomer to the African food scene, Addis serves classic Ethiopian fare and some of the best injera in town. LD $ African Paradise | Somali | 2263 Morse Rd., North Side, 614-476-2163. An authentic African restaurant catering to the city’s growing African population. Somali cuisine with goat, lamb, chicken, fish and vegetarian dishes. BLD $ Dabakh Restaurant |African | 2225 Morse Rd., Northeast Side, 614-473-9105. At this Morse Road Senegalese restaurant, you’ll find intriguing and satisfying dishes such as Maffe, lamb in a rich peanut, onion and tomato sauce, and Dibi, grilled lamb with a Creole seasoning, served with a choice of side and an onion and vinegar garnish. D $$ Gallo’s Tap Room | Pub Grub | 5019 Olentangy River Rd., Northwest Side, 614-457-2394. A dark, modern, nightclub-y sports bar brimming with topnotch beers. Pub grub with sandwiches, burgers and great wings. LD $

ALL ACCESS e pass to the A backstag rch C r u o Y it y Visit ColumbusMonthly.com and sign-up for our weekly newsletter that includes special events, important conversations, exclusive giveaways and more.

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QUICK LUNCH OR RELAXED BUSINESS MEETING PERFECT FOR EITHER

Hoyo’s Kitchen | 5786 Columbus Square, North Side, 614-899-8800. Taking over the shuttered Solay Bistro location, Hoyo’s Kitchen looks to fill the Somali cuisine void with authentic African dishes inspired by the owner’s mother’s home cooking. Don’t pass on a combo plate with goat with berbere-spiked sauce, or the Daal Soup, a hearty lentil dish easily scooped up with spongy injera. The setup is fast-casual, but be prepared to linger as service, while attentive, can be rather relaxed. LD $$ Intercontinental Restaurant | Nigerian | 5777 Cleveland Ave., North Side, 614-259-3951. Columbus’ first Nigerian restaurant offers some exotic dishes worth exploring. Nigerian cuisine with Moi Moi, Jollof Rice and Shrimp Fried Rice. LD $$ Lalibela Restaurant | Ethiopian | 1111 S. Hamilton Rd., Whitehall, 614-235-5355. This quaint mom-and-pop restaurant in a strip mall serves a wide variety of Ethiopian food at reasonable prices. LD $ Wycliff’s Kitchen | African | 2492 Home Acre Dr., Northeast Side, 614-772-3461. Located inside an Indian restaurant, Wycliff’s serves authentic Kenyan dishes, including savory goat stews, seasoned grilled beef and mashed vegetables. LD $

features Al Ameer | Middle Eastern | 5394 Roberts Rd., Hilliard, 614-777-6010. What sets this comfortable Middle Eastern restaurant apart is its well-executed offerings of Moroccan food, including couscous, harira soup and tagines made with lamb, chicken or fish. LD $$ Alana’s Food & Wine | AMERICAN | 2333 N. High St., Campus, 614-294-6783. Chef and owner Alana Shock changes the menu of this funky Campus spot at her whim. The one thing that’s always certain is her hyper-local food (and nightly Surprise entree) will satiate and entertain you. D $$$

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HAPPY

HOUR

Anna’s Greek Cuisine | Greek | 7370 Sawmill Rd., Dublin, 614-799-2207. Mediterranean family recipes made with fresh and authentic ingredients. Greek cuisine with lamb manestra, chicken lemonati, lamb artichokes and gyros. BRLD $$

MON-FRI 4PM-7PM

The Angry Baker | Soup & Sandwiches | 891 Oak St., Olde Towne East, 614-947-0976. Known for their delectable baked goods, The Angry Baker also serves savory options, including soups, sandwiches, rice and veggie bowls and breakfast all day. Many dishes are vegan and vegetarian friendly. BLD $

1/2 OFF ALL MARGARITAS $1 OFF TACOS

Apna Bazaar | Middle Eastern | 810 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-326-2762. Expect Pakistani spins on Indian favorites served in the back of a Middle Eastern market. Dishes include karhai chicken, tikki chicken, nan and goat biryani. LD $

(IN BAR AREA)

WEEKEND 12PM-3PM EEKEND BRUNCH 12PM 3PM

Arepazo tapas & wine | Latin American | 515 S. High St., Brewery District, 614-228-4830. From the owners of El Arepazo, this Brewery District outpost down the street serves tapas and entrees in a chic and casual restaurant with a focus on Venezuelan and Colombian fare. LD $

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Bakersfield | Mexican | 733 N High St., Short North, 614-754-8436. This country-music-loving cantina specializes in tacos, tequila and whiskey in the heart of the Short North. The first Columbus location of a Cincinnati-born concept, Bakersfield offers a tight menu of Tex-Mex standards, like chips and salsa or guac, tortas and roughly eight tacos filled with a choice of chicken, beef, fish, pork or veggies. LD $ Bangkok Grocery & Restaurant | Thai | 3277 Refugee Rd., East Side, 614-231-8787. East Side grocery and eatery specializing in Thai fare. Thai cuisine with pad Thai, Tom Yum soup and noodle dishes. LD $ Brown Bag Deli | Soup & Sandwiches | 898 Mohawk St., German Village, 614-443-4214. The longtime German Village sandwich shop keeps it simple yet tasty with crave-worthy sandwiches like the turkey-and-cranberry-mayo-topped Village Addiction, plus daily soups, salads and sides on display under the counter. LD $ Cafe Kabul | Middle Eastern | 2831 Olentangy River Rd., Campus, 614-737-3481. This is the city’s first restaurant specializing in food from Afghanistan, including dishes like seekh kebab, tandoor chicken and kabuli pallow. LD $

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Casa Hacienda Grill | Mexican | 1264 E. DublinGranville Rd., North Side, 614-396-7083. This popular Tex-Mex restaurant features elaborate decor with colorful Mexican tiles and an extensive menu including mole ranchero, chile rellenos and chicken mulitas. Ask for their handmade tortillas. LD $ Chi Thai | Asian | 5577 N. Hamilton Rd., Gahanna, 614-471-8988. Local restaurateur Joey Chang opened his welcoming, family-friendly Thai place out in the boondocks, but the inspired menu is worth the drive. Thai and Chinese cuisine with Bangkok fish, Pataya Shrimp and Szechuan Bean Curd. LD $ Condado | Mexican | 1227 N. High St., Short North, 614-928-3909. Conado is a Day of the Dead themed taco joint slinging healthy helpings of fresh queso and guacamole and build-your-own tacos from a sushistyle ordering menu. Not to be missed are the clever tortilla choices that sandwich toppers like queso and guac in between soft and crunchy tortillas, as well as fresh juice margaritas like prickly pear and blood orange. BRD $

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The Crest

Rustic. Urban. Food. “Seasonal Driven Farm to Fork Comfort Classics with an Urban Edge”

410 E Whittier St. • Columbus, OH 43206 • 614-443-2266 The harvest and season varies our menu daily www.skilletruf.com

Cornerstone Deli-Cafe | Soup & Sandwiches | 3296 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-267-3354. Deli serving breakfast and a variety of sandwiches with breakfast wrap, French dip, turkey Reuben and sushi. BLD $ Cravings Carryout Cafe | Soup & Sandwiches | 227 E. Third Ave., Italian Village, 614-725-0090. This adorable brick-walled Italian Village spot revamped its name and menu to offer more savory breakfast and lunch options with an emphasis on to-go orders. Here you’ll find sandwiches on freshly made brioche, a rotating daily soup special and pastries, like house-made cinnamon rolls. BLD $ Creole Kitchen | Cajun & Creole | 1052 Mt. Vernon Ave., King Lincoln, 614-372-3333. Authentic savory Cajun food is served in hearty portions in this takeout eatery. Cajun cuisine with po’ boys, alligator and gumbo. BLD $ The Crest | Contemporary American | 2855 Indianola Ave., Clintonville, 614-261-7128. The old Crest Tavern got an ambitious makeover—now it’s a gastropub serving a long list of craft and local beers as well as upscale pub fare incorporating herbs and produce from a rooftop garden. Contemporary American and Middle Eastern fare with sandwiches, salads and wood-fired pizzas. BRD $$ Cuco’s Mexican Taqueria | Mexican | 2162 Henderson Rd., Upper Arlington, 614-538-8701. Once a Mexican grocery store with a tiny taco counter, Cuco’s has grown into a full-fledged, successful restaurant that still sells a few Mexican goods. Authentic Mexican cuisine with ceviche, burritos, tamales, tortas and tacos al pastor. BLD $ Curio at harvest | Bars | 491 S. Fourth St., German Village. A delightful little speakeasy attached to Harvest Pizzeria (you can order their pizzas at the bar), serving a constantly rotating selection of the city’s most inspired cocktails. D $

Denmark | Bars | 463 N. High St., Arena District, 614-914-6700. A European-style cocktail bar focusing on vintage and modern drinks, craft Ohio beers and seasonal small plates. Located on the second floor of the Yankee on High building. D $$ 1 2 4 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

Photo: Courtney Hergesheimer

Da Levee | Cajun & Creole | 129 N. Stygler Rd., Gahanna, 614-532-8050. The takeout-only Gahanna outpost of the Short North eatery by the same name offers similar Cajun and Creole dishes and a handful of daily specials. Expect dishes like chili cheese crawfish etouffee, jambalaya and white bean chili with chicken. LD $

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THE LATEST DINING NEWS AND RESTAURANT PICKS SERVED FRESH DAILY FEATURING:

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Dosa Corner | Indian | 1077 Old Henderson Rd., Upper Arlington, 614-459-5515. This family-owned Indian “fast food” spot (customers use paper plates and plastic utensils) specializes in thin, pancake-like dosas. South Indian cuisine with dosas, uthappams, samosas and vegetarian dishes. LD $ El Arepazo Latin Grill | Latin American | 47 N. Pearl St., Downtown, 614-228-4830. A popular Downtown lunch spot serving Colombian and Venezuelan favorites— and don’t skip the spicy cilantro sauce. South American cuisine with arepas, tilapia latina and fried plantains. L $ El Vaquero | Mexican | 2195 Riverside Dr., Northwest Side, 614-486-4547. Authentic Mexican restaurant with a vibrant atmosphere. Mexican cuisine, with tacos, burritos, enchiladas and nachos. LD $$ Ena’s Caribbean Kitchen | Caribbean | 2444 Cleveland Ave., North Side, 614-262-0988. A brightly colored, authentic Caribbean restaurant serving flavorful dishes with goat, oxtail, red beans and rice and red snapper. LD $$ Ethyl & Tank | pub grub | 19 E. 13th Ave., Campus, 614-947-0140. The latest concept from the folks who brought you 4th St. Bar & Grill, Ethyl & Tank is an arcade, bar, restaurant and coffee shop. BBRLD $ Explorers Club | Latin American | 1586 S. High St., Merion Village, 614-725-0155. This worldly inspired Merion Village gem emphasizes local ingredients and scratch cooking with Latin-influenced flavors. On the daily menu, expect Latin dishes like fried plantains, chile rellenos and mofongo meatloaf, plus a nice lineup of vegan and vegetarian fare. Special rotating menus are inspired by other ethnic cuisines, including Hungarian, German and Caribbean. BRD $ Firdous Express | Mediterranean | 59 Spruce St., North Market, Arena District, 614-221-4444. A North Market Mediterranean eatery, Firdous Express is known for its authentic Shawarma meat. LD $ Fortune Chinese Restaurant | Chinese | 2869 Olentangy River Rd., Campus, 614-263-1991. Brazenly flavored, mouth-numbing Sichuan dishes served in an underwhelming strip-mall setting. Try the ma po bean curd, fish with rice crust or chicken stir fry. LD $$ Frank’s Fish & Seafood | Seafood | 5251 Trabue Rd., West Side, 614-878-6800. The West Side seafood market has expanded to offer an attached carryout-friendly restaurant serving an array of fresh fish and seafood sandwiches and platters. LD $ Gabby’s Place | Italian | 3120 Olentangy River Rd., Delaware, 740-369-4619. For more than two decades, Gabby’s has been a no-frills neighborhood joint offering delicious bar food and pizza. Don’t leave here without trying a cheesy calzone. LD $$ Giuseppe’s Ritrovo | Italian | 2268 E. Main St., Bexley, 614-235-4300. This unfussy Bexley restaurant is the place to go for fantastic, classic Italian pasta dishes, inspired cocktails and the best selection of Italian amari in the city. LD $$ Harvest Moon Cafe | American | 7 N. High St., Canal Winchester, 614-834-8100. Harvest Moon Cafe is a gem in Canal Winchester, offering a fullservice restaurant specializing in grass-fed bison burgers, fresh salads, soups and sandwiches. BLD $$

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Hass | Mexican | 7370 Sawmill Rd., Dublin, 614-7600155. Breaking the fast-casual Mexican chain mold, Hass serves up authentic tacos, tortas, burritos and house-made tortillas, filled with wood-fired steak, spicy al pastor and beer-battered shrimp (just to name a few of our favorites). LD $

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Helen’s Asian Kitchen | Asian | 1070 E. DublinGranville Rd., North Side, 614-987-5121. Traditional Chinese restaurant with classic Asian entrees in a casual atmosphere. Chinese and Asian with Shrimp Lemongrass Soup, Steamed Vegetable Dumplings and Pork with String Beans. LD $

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Hinkley’s | CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN | 318 E. Fifth St. Marysville, 937-553-9030. A quirky restaurant in Marysville that gives Southern comfort classics an Ohio twist through locally sourced ingredients. Think shrimp and grits, fried green tomatoes and sweet-corn chowder. Wash it all down with signature cocktails, craft beers and wine. D $$$ Huong Vietnamese Restaurant | Vietnamese | 1270 Morse Rd., North Side, 614-825-0303. Housed in a Northland-area strip mall, this bright and simply decorated restaurant turns out authentic and approachable Vietnamese fare. Vietnamese cuisine with pho soups, bun Nem Nuong and Asian-style barbecued pork. LD $ Hyde Park Steakhouse | Steakhouse | 569 N. High St., Short North, 614-224-2204. The prime beef tempts tongues and the eye candy turns heads at this high-end eatery on the Cap. Steakhouse cuisine, with filet mignon, New York strip, seafood, and surf-and-turf combinations. D $$$ Indochine Cafe | Vietnamese | 561 S. Hamilton Rd., Whitehall, 614-231-7357. Classic Vietnamese and Laotian fare is presented in a colorful, photo-filled menu at this traditional mom-and-pop eatery. Asian cuisine with Thit Bit Tet, Goi Du Du and Goi Thit Bo. LD $ Jeddo Kabob | Middle Eastern | 6140 Cleveland Ave., North Side, 614-794-1202. Strip-mall spot serving up a nice variety of Persian-style kababs. Persian cuisine with Jeddo Fish Kabab, lamb Shish Kabab and baba ghanosh. LD $$ Jie’s Good Tasting | CHINESE | 1413 Grandview Ave., Grandview, 614-824-4657. After opening in late 2013 with a menu of standard Chinese-American fare, the owners of this small Grandview eatery have refocused to highlight their delicious homemade dumplings, including San Xian, pork and pickled cabbage and dumplings in hot and sour soup. Though service can be slow at times, it’s worth it for a bite of the flavorful fillings. LD $ Katalina’s | Latin | 1105 Pennsylvania Ave., Harrison West, 614-294-2233. This Harrison West cafe serves an eclectic menu of made-from-scratch items using locally sourced ingredients. Latin cuisine, with sandwiches, wraps and breakfast all day. BLD $ The Kitchen | AMERICAN | 231 E. Livingston Ave., German Village 614-225-8940. Designed as a participatory dining space, diners can sign up for themed dinner-party-style events during which they help cook the meal. On Tuesdays, The Kitchen opens as a restaurant serving taco specials inspired by a rotating theme. D $$ Kolache Republic | Czech | 730 S. High St., South Side, 614-928-3151. A Brewery District bakery that serves up savory and sweet versions of the Czech kolache. From the counter, you can choose from fruit and sweet cheese fillings, to daily rotating savory options like kielbasa and polish sausage. BLD $

DESTINATION RESTAURANT

Located in the Renaissance Columbus Downtown Hotel, Latitude 41 offers modern American cuisine with the finest natural, fresh, local ingredients. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Latitude 41 offers a delicious menu that is updated daily to represent the best of what our local markets have to offer. Located in downtown Columbus at the corner of 3rd & Gay St.

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s p r i n g 2 0 1 5 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • 1 2 7

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CORNMEAL FRIED OCEAN PERCH SANDWICH - $7.00

FRIED OYSTERS (6) $9

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CHILLED PEEL / EAT SHRIMP $8

SPICY BATTERED CATFISH SANDWICH - 7.00

HALF OF A POUND OF SHRIMP IN A BEER AND OLD BAY BOIL WITH CLASSIC COCKTAIL AND LEMON

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NEW ORLEANS PO’ BOY GULF SHRIMP $9.00, OYSTERS $10.00

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CLAM STRIPS $7

FLASH FRIED CALAMARI $8

ALL OF OUR PLATTERS COME WITH TWO HUSHPUPPIES AND TWO SIDES OF YOUR CHOOSING. *CONSUMING RAW OR UNDERCOOK OYSTERS AND SEAFOOD MAY INCREASE YOUR RISK OF FOODBORNE ILLNESS.

CORNMEAL FRIED OCEAN PERCH - $12.00 SERVED WITH HOUSE TARTAR.

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FRIED SHRIMP (8) - $13.00

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Monday 9 am-4 pm • Tues-Sat 11 am-6 pm Closed Sunday We Accept All Major Credit Cards

www.franksfishandseafoodmarket.com

The Market

La Michoacana | MEXICAN | 2175 Morse Rd., North Side, 614-471-4500. Don’t be fooled by La Michoacana’s Hispanic grocery exterior. Inside each shop is an authentic taqueria serving up Mexican fare including tamales, burritos and enchiladas, plus beer and margaritas. BLD $ Lavash Cafe | Mediterranean | 2985 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-263-7777. This quick-service Middle Eastern eatery serves a unique mix of Mediterranean food, coffees and desserts. Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines with kefta sandwiches, mojadara and shawarma. LD $$ Local Cantina | Mexican | 1423 Grandview Ave., Grandview, 614-488-6146; 101 Mill St., Gahanna, 614-337-1977; 3126 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-7548554. Tacos, fajitas and quesadillas (plus self-serve chips and salsa) served in a kitschy Mexican-themed neighborhood bar. BRLD $ Los Guachos Taqueria | Mexican | 1376 Cherry Bottom Rd., Gahanna, 614-471-4717. The brick-andmortar version of the popular taco truck offers all the truck favorites in a casual setting, including the al pastor, tacos, tortas and gringas. LD $ M | Fine Dining | 2 Miranova Pl., Downtown, 614629-0000. Cameron Mitchell’s South Beach-inspired restaurant is set apart by an outdoor terrace overlooking the Scioto River, an eclectic menu of Pacific Rim-influenced dishes and craft cocktails by one of the city’s most notable bartenders. D $$$$

MOTHER MOHAWK, A GERMAN VILLAGE TRADITION SINCE 1977 OLD MOHAWK RESTAURANT OPEN SUNDAY & MONDAY 11AM - 10PM • TUESDAY - THURSDAY 11AM - 11PM FRIDAY & SATURDAY 11AM - 12AM

OPEN EVERY DAY • WWW.THEOLDMOHAWK.COM 1 2 8 • C o l u m b u s C r a v e . C OM • s p r i n g 2 0 1 5

The Market Italian Village | European | 1022 Summit St., Short North, 614-745-2147. A specialty market in Italian Village offering coffee and freshly made pastries in the morning, grab-and-go fare for lunch and full-service, French-inspired dinner at night. Modeled after international marketplaces, The Market offers a little something for everyone–freshly roasted coffee, produce and specialty grocery items, a deli and butchered meats, wood-fired pizzas, beer and growler fills and a wine shop. BLD $$

Photo: tessa berg

821 MOHAWK ST., GERMAN VILLAGE • 444.7204

Mad Greek | Greek | 4210 E. Broad St., Whitehall, 614-338-0000. Fun, colorful eatery serving Mediterranean favorites. Greek cuisine with lamb chops, moussaka, pastitsio, fresh seafood, gyros and Greek salads. LD $$

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VOTED BEST GREEK RESTAURANT

11 YEARS IN A ROW BY COLUMBUS MONTHLY! & 4 YEARS IN A ROW BY

OUR PARTY ROOM CAN SEAT UP TO 50 PEOPLE - CALL TO RESERVE!

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Now featuring convenient nearby parking garage at the corner of Russell and High St.

660 N. High St., Columbus, Ohio 43215 • 614-463-1111

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Fusion Done Right! Made-From-Scratch Mexican/Cuban Cuisine Serving Breakfast All Day

exit | listings Mojo Tago | Mexican | 24 Grace Drive, Powell, 614961-6656. The popular taco-centric food truck has set permanent roots in Powell with a carryout storefront. Here, you’ll find made-to-order dishes like carnitas and Korean barbecue available in taco, burrito, quesadilla or bowl form. Coming soon is an attached bar and sit-down restaurant. LD $ Moretti’s of Arlington | Italian | 2124 Tremont Ctr., Upper Arlington, 614-486-2333. This welcoming, casual eatery is the place for zesty Italian-American food. It’s the kind of neighborhood spot that can dressed down on a weeknight for homemade pasta and chicken parmesan, or dressed up for date night with the made-for-two Italian plate and huge slices of freshly made cheesecake. LD $$ Mouton | Contemporary American | 954 N. High St., Short North, 614-732-4660. This chic bar turns out some of the best and most creative cocktails in the city. You’ll find clever plays on the classics alongside imbibe-friendly bar bites like cheese and charcuterie and local bread. BRD $$ Moy’s Chinese Restaurant | Chinese | 1994 N. High St., Campus, 614-297-7722. Straightforward and traditional Chinese favorites. Chinese cuisine with General Tso’s chicken and sweet and sour chicken. LD $

4453 Cemetary Road, Hillard • 777-5606 www.louiesgrillfusionrestaurant.net Mon-Fri 11am-10pm • Sat 8am-10pm • Sun 8am-3pm

Nada | Mexican | 220 W. Nationwide Blvd., Arena District, 614-715-8260. The fiesta is still going strong at the Arena District expansion of Cincinnati’s vibrant Mexican-inspired eatery, Nada. Known for inventive dishes and a lively atmosphere, this 220-seat iteration of Nada does disappoint with bold colors and patterns, familiar and fun fare, like Mexican Mac N’ Cheese, pork belly tacos and cracked potato fries, and several signature cocktails on tap, as well as a hearty tequila selection. LD $$ Nazareth Restaurant | Middle Eastern | 5239 N. Hamilton Rd., Gahanna, 614-899-1177. This familyowned eatery has been serving classic Middle Eastern fare in Columbus for more 20 years. Unassumingly located in a Gahanna strip mall, here you’ll find friendly service and freshly made favorites like chicken shawarma, falafel and hummus. LD $ Nida’s Thai on High | Thai | 976 N. High St., Short North, 614-299-9199. Classic Thai meets modern flair at this quirky Short North eatery with an open, lively atmosphere and a mix of traditional and trendy Thai dishes. LD $$ Nong’s Hunan Express | Chinese | 1634 Northwest Blvd., Grandview, 614-486-6630. Moderately upscale spot with a large selection of vegetarian dishes. Chinese and Thai cuisines with shrimp with lobster sauce, lemon chicken and spicy triple delight. LD $

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Oddfellows Liquor Bar | BAR | 1038 N. High St., Short North, 614-737-3488. The guys behind Mikey’s Late Night Slice have packed this 1,400-square-foot space with conversation-starting decor (like quirky wallpaper and old road signs) to create a dive bar with kitsch instead of grime. Behind the bar, find 16 beers on tap and specialty liquors and cocktails. On weekends, Latin-inspired Katalina’s takes over the kitchen with a limited brunch and snack menu. BRD $

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Olive Tree Mediterranean Cafe | Mediterranean | 3185 Hilliard-Rome Rd., Hilliard, 614-527-8812. Traditional Mediterranean fare served in a relaxing cafe atmosphere. Mediterranean cuisines with gyros, lamb kabobs and falafel. LD $$

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Philco Bar + Diner | Diner | 747 N. High St., Short North, 614-299-9933. The diner gets a modern touch at the latest concept from the owners of The Rossi and Little Palace. Here, chef Andrew Smith crafts a fun menu of hushpuppies, johnnycake sliders and pork shoulder pot roast and, of course, breakfast all day. BLD $$ Pita House | Mediterranean | 2996 E. Broad St., East Side, 614-236-0000. Mediterranean cafe on the East Side serving gyros and hummus. Greek and Mediterranean with Lamb Kabob, Falafel and Schnitzel Plate. LD $ Portia’s Cafe | vegan | 4428 Indianola Ave., Clintonville, 614-928-3252. This Clintonville cafe serves up only vegan and gluten-free options with an emphasis on raw foods. The menu includes dips like hummus and guacamole, falafel, soups, salads, wraps, smoothies and a vegan-friendly Cheezecake. LD $$ Prohibition Gastro Lounge | gastropub | 21 W. Olentangy St., Powell, 614-840-9100. Prohibition is part gastropub, part cocktail bar. On the menu, you’ll find a hearty list of sandwiches, burgers and comfortfood-leaning entrees. Wash dishes down with creative and classic cocktails made by skilled bartenders. D $$

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Refectory Restaurant & Bistro | French/ european | 1092 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614451-9774. The most accomplished of Columbus’ French restaurants, The Refectory might put more kitchen effort into a single plate than an ordinary restaurant does into an entire menu. Inside this church-turned-fine-dining spot, expect impeccable service and a world-class wine cellar to pair with your meal. D $$$$ Shish Kebab Mediterranean Grill | Mediterranean | 1450 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-273-4444. A crafty menu and intelligent decor help this Turkish eatery transcend its strip-mall setting. Middle Eastern cuisine with shish kebabs, Soslu Patlican and Haydari. LD $$ Sidebar | Contemporary American | 122 E. Main St., Downtown, 614-228-9041. Out of the former Brownstone space, this swanky restaurant and lounge special-

izes in small plates and classic cocktails. Contemporary American cuisine with chicken croquettes, beef tenderloin empanadas and scallops Parmesan. D $$ Sun Tong Luck Asian Cuisine | Chinese | 2500 Bethel Rd., Northwest Side, 614-442-3375. The owners of this Carriage Place shopping center restaurant have a long history of serving the best dim sum in Columbus. Asian cuisine with pad Thai, Moo Shu Pork and Kung Pao Shrimp. LD $ Strongwater Food and Spirits | American | 401 W. Town St., Franklinton, 513-292-1048. A bar and restaurant inside artist collective 400 West Rich—a 100-year-old former drinking fountain manufacturing space. The bar is located in the old lobby and features specialty cocktails with a focus on simple, house-made ingredients, plus local and imported beers. On the restaurant side, vegetarian-focused cuisine is paired with omnivore-pleasing offerings like whole chicken wings and pork belly sandwiches. D $$

The PerFecT vacaTion haven

Features: • On-Site Splash Park • 4 Restaurants & 6 Bars •Unlimited Greens Fees at Nearby Golf Course • Free Wi-Fi

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O’Reilly’s Pub | Pub Grub | 2822 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-262-6343. Regulars and newcomers alike feel right at home at this friendly neighborhood Irish bar. Pub grub, with the Pepper Burger, sweet potato fries and wings. LD $

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Strongwater Food and Spirits

Ted’s Montana Grill | Contemporary American | 191 W. Nationwide Blvd., Arena District, 614-227-0013; 6195 Sawmill Rd., Dublin, 614-760-7753. The steakhouse and American grill was founded by media entrepreneur Ted Turner and restaurateur George McKerrow Jr. American cuisine with burgers, steaks and seafood. LD $$ Tensuke Express | Japanese | 1167 Old Henderson Rd., Northwest Side, 614-451-6002. A little back room counter operation inside Tensuke Market serves bentos and sushi from neighboring partner Akai Hana as well as noodle and rice bowls. Japanese and sushi, with spicy pork kimchi udon, shoyu wakame Ramen and curry rice. LD $$ Third and Hollywood | Contemporary American | 1433 W. Third Ave., Grandview, 614-488-0303. The Northstar family’s gone Hollywood with this ambitious upscale lounge just off restaurant row in Grandview. Contemporary American cuisine with the Hollywood burger, salads, sandwiches and updated classic cocktails. BRLD $$ Veritas Tavern | Contemporary American | 15 E. Winter St., Delaware, 740-417-4074. With its focus on modern cooking techniques, chef Josh Dalton’s Veritas is not only putting out some of the best-looking plates in town; he’s making some of the best-tasting food around, too. Expect a menu of small plates meticulously created by cooking geeks, plus an exhilarating cocktail list. D $$$

*Vacation Express public charter operated by Sunwing Airlines. See Operator/Participant Agreement for Details.

4 Nights GRAND BAHAMA ISLAND

All-Inclusive Vacations w/Air from

$799

1.800.309.4717 or your travel agent

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SUPERNATURAL C H E F

D R I V E N

B A R & R E S TA U R A N T

Vincenzo’s | Italian | 6393 Sawmill Rd., Dublin, 614-792-1010. Old-world Italian dishes and bakery for heat-and-eat offerings or take-and-bake servings made in-house daily. Italian, with Bracciole, hot and sweet sausages and eggplant Parmesan. LD $$ Westgate Thai | Thai | 3201 Sullivant Ave., West Side, 614-458-1165. A small yet tasty spot nestled in the back of an imported-goods market with Asian groceries. Thai cuisine with Som Tom, pad Thai and Red Curry. LD $ Whole World Natural Bakery & Restaurant | Soup & Sandwiches | 3269 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-268-5751. One of the oldest vegetarian establishments in Columbus is known for its homemade breads, pastries and inventive entrees that just happen to be vegetarian. Vegetarian cuisine with White Bean-Tofu Quesadillas, lentil burgers and whole-wheat pizzas. BRLD $ Wolf’s Ridge Brewing | Contemporary American | 215 N. Fourth St., Downtown, 614-429-3936. Chef Seth Lassak brings a mix of California and France to the menu at this Downtown brewpub, transforming fancier fare into everyday stars that pair well with beer, including duck confit tacos, scallop crudo and pan-seared Thai snapper. A former truck warehouse turned restaurant and brewery, the space is open and light with huge windows that allow diners to watch the brewers in action. BRLD $$$

247 KING AVE C O LU M B U S

Yabo’s Tacos | Mexican | 7097 state Route 3, Westerville, 614-212-4090; 3051 Northwest Blvd., Upper Arlington, 614-824-2485; 4046 W. Powell Rd., Powell, 614-336-7639. No matter where this locally owned, Southwestern chainlet sets up shop, it feels like part of the neighborhood. Yabo’s is a Southwest sports bar and restaurant with full and self service, a hearty beer selection and $2 tacos made with cooked-in-house meats. LD $

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Celebrate Spring with a Dynamic Cocktail

Yanni’s Greek Restaurant | Greek | 6196 Cleveland Ave., North Side, 614-890-4775. A small, casual Greek eatery with an authentic menu, including lamb chops, grape leaves, gyros and hummus. LD $$

exit Crimson Cup Coffee House | Coffee & Dessert | 4541 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-262-6212. This locally owned coffee shop serves artisan-roasted coffee, espresso and tea. Take a seat at the Brew Bar for cold brewed coffee on tap. What’s offered changes with the season, so be sure to ask what they’re pouring. BLD $ Pattycake Bakery | Dessert | 3009 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-784-2253. Pattycake is a tiny Clintonville bakeshop turning out fresh, vegan treats like whoopee pies, muffins and cookies. If you want to taste the baker’s creativity, check out the daily offering of cake by the slice. BLD $

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1 Linden Alley c1911, pages 55 and 112 16-Bit Bar + Arcade, page 61 89 Fish and Grill, pages 23 and 108 101 Beer Kitchen, page 10

Photo: meghan ralston

Latitude 41, page 127

The Andersons, page 67

Los Guachos, page 65

Arch City Tavern, page 3

Louie’s Grill, page 130

Barcelona, page 109

Manifesto, page 33

Bob Evans, page 63

The Market Italian Village, page 13

The Brass Tap, page 125

Matt the Miller’s Tavern, pages 9 and 113

Brews Cafe, page 63

Melt Bar & Grilled, page 31

Cafe Istanbul, page 41

Mezzo, page 4

Carfagna’s, pages 42 and 53

Mid-Ohio Foodbank, page 123

The Cask and Barrel, page 46

Modelo, back cover

China Dynasty, page 123

North Market, page 2

City Barbecue, page 47

Ohio Grape Industries, pages 48, 49 and 50

Condado, page 122

Ohio State Wexner Medical Center, inside back cover

Corona, page 21

Old Mohawk Restaurant, pages 114 and 128

Creekside Event Center, page 4

Oliver’s, page 33

The Crest, pages 6 and 110

Pizza House, pages 46 and 115

Cuco’s Taqueria, page 125

The Refectory, pages 16 and 116

De-Novo, page 33

Rusty Bucket Restaurant, page 29

Denmark, page 132

Sakura, pages 117 and 123

Dine Originals, page 27

Shaffer Construction, page 1

Double Comfort, page 119

Sidecar Global Catering, page 121

Forno, inside front cover

Skillet, page 124

Frank’s Fish and Seafood Market, page 128

Starliner Diner, page 55

G. Michael’s, page 25

Strongwater Food and Spirits, pages 118 and 124

Great Lakes Brewing Co., page 59

Taste Catering, page 4

The Guild House, page 19

Till Dynamic Fare, page 132

Happy Greek, page 129

The Top Steakhouse, page 43

Hinkley’s Restaurant, page 111

Vacation Express, pages 43, 131, 133 and 135

Hong Kong House, page 126

Veritas Tavern, page 45

Hubbard Grille, page 4

Villa Nova, page 57

Jack Daniels, page 37

Weiland’s Market, page 15

Jazz Arts Group of Columbus, page 42

Wexner Center for the Arts, page 120

Jim Keim Ford, page 5

Wine on High, page 4

Katalina’s, pages 11 and 53

Worthington Inn, page 122

Warm Weather is Calling

1808 American Bistro, page 44

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Condado

*Vacation Express public charter operated by Swift Air, LLC.

6 Nights

PUNTA CANA

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to $1199*

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brandonbir,32 Lives In: Gahanna Occupation: Coffee education and sourcing, Crimson Cup Coffee 4541 N. High St., Clintonville, 614-262-6212, crimsoncup.com

short orders Where Brandon Bir goes for something specific

Seafood 89 Fish & Grill. Their scallops with risotto is amazingly complex. For sushi, Mr. Sushi is my favorite place in the world. It’s the most underrated sushi bar in town. They have spinach egg drop soup for $2.50 and it will fill you up.

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Burger The Thurman Cafe is one of my favorites (he goes for the Macedonian Burger). I want to try B Spot in Gahanna. I am an exotic-meat freak. Anything off the radar of people’s normal food, I like. I tried jungle animal in Peru.

Ethnic I’m a big fan of Korean food. I like island food. I love the idea of things used in sweets being used in savory foods. There’s an Ethiopian place I like off of Hamilton Road, Lalibela, with a grocery right next to it.

Italian Giuseppe’s is my favorite Italian spot. The chicken ravioli is ridiculous. [Giuseppe] makes a white sauce with it that is so good.

Quick lunch Bibibop is one of my favorite spots. Barrel 44’s turkey chili is the bomb. Another quick spot I like is Northstar.

randon Bir developed an appreciation for coffee and its origins in college, where he used it as fuel for exams. Managing an espresso bar continued to foster Bir’s interest, leading him to his current gig in innovation and sourcing at Crimson Cup. The local coffee roaster, which supplies roasts to more than 300 shops in 30 states, focuses on supporting international farmers. So Bir spends his time traveling to places like Peru, Brazil and Costa Rica, talking to farmers and bringing back coffee. “I grew up in a farming community, so I can relate to it,” says Bir, who comes from Huntington, Indiana. “We’re helping to increase their quality of life.” Bir has been with Crimson Cup—which

has a coffeehouse in Clintonville—for nearly five years, and recently helped launch their coffee-on-tap program after he was inspired by a technique he saw in California. Coldbrewed coffee is kegged and dispensed through a nitrogen tap, creating what Bir describes as a smoother, thicker product that’s naturally sweet without additives. “I liked the flavors and drinkability,” Bir says. “It was made for everyone, including craft beer drinkers that typically wouldn’t approach a cup of coffee.” When he’s not visiting Central or South America, Bir likes to explore Columbus eats. “Columbus has so much to offer for food,” Bir says. “I’ll travel wherever around here to try something.”

How is Crimson Cup changing the Columbus coffee scene? Each coffee we highlight on our brew bar comes with the story behind the cup. We are able to share our experiences while we brew the cup of coffee in front of the customer. Each 12-ounce bag includes the story of the coffee for customers to take home.

but there’s sophistication in what they do. Fine dining doesn’t have to be white tablecloth.

Photo: tim johnson

How do you drink your coffee? My favorite way to take it is all about the circumstance. In the summer, I’ll go with the nitro cold brew. If it’s in the afternoon, I love a straight shot of espresso. To me, coffee is an escape. If I’m drinking a Guatemalan or Peruvian coffee, it’s like I can go back to that farm. Where do you like to eat in your neighborhood? The Mill Street and Creekside area [of Gahanna] is growing, but it still has a ways to go. When Pigskin Brewing opens, that will give people something to check out. Local Cantina is great—they make a killer salad, and I’m a salad guy. Where’s a good spot for a fancy dinner? I love The Pearl. It’s a great spot. And then there are places like Little Palace. It’s simple pub food,

Warm Weather is Calling

When Brandon Bir isn’t kegging cold-brew coffee at Crimson Cup, he’s out on the town in search of Story by heather weekley off-the-radar food finds.

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Tapping in

When you want a great breakfast, where do you head? Explorers Club, hands down. The biscuits and gravy are good, and there’s a veggie hash that’s really good, too. I’ve never gone there for breakfast and not had something good. How about a sweet treat? Mozart’s has some good pastries. I love Johnson’s ice cream. Johnson’s uses higher-fat butter than most ice creams, which makes it creamy. Any hidden gems in Columbus? Sunrise Market in Whitehall, off of Yearling Road. It’s a Balkan grocery. They get meats imported from the Balkan region. They have a nice traditional dish called cevapi and different pastries, too. They have a dish called borek, and it’s a pastry made of thin, simple dough. You keep folding it over with spinach and feta cheese, or my favorite, onions and hamburger. The owner makes homemade yogurt that you put on top. They also have all kinds of Balkan groceries. You can always get a free cup of Turkish coffee there.

*Vacation Express public charter operated by Interjet.

6 Nights

CANCUN

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sweet! Layered Effect There’s just something decadent about a huge piece of layer cake, says Pattycake Bakery founder Jennie Scheinbach. Since the vegan Clintonville bakery opened in 2005, Scheinbach and her team have been expressing their baking knowhow through rotating cake-by-the-slice flavors. The two to three vibrantly frosted cakes—like Peanut Butter Loves Jelly, Dirty Chai and French Toast, just to name a few—are up to the baker’s whim. “There’s no schedule,” Scheinbach says. “The cake slices are really our place for creativity.” Slices range from $3.95 to $4.50. pattycakebakery.com —Beth Stallings

Want a daily dose of enticing cake eye candy, like the Vanilla Cake with Cherry icing and pistachios or the Chocolate Mocha shown here? Follow Pattycake Bakery on Instagram (@pattycakebakery).

Photo: will shilling