Freshly Stitched by betterdaybooks

FRESHLY St itched MODERN EMBROIDERY for Absolute Beginners CELESTE JOHNSTON Lemon Made Shop

FRESHLY St itched MODERN EMBROIDERY for Absolute Beginners

ISBN: CopublishedPrinted978-0-7643-6123-4inChinabyBetterDay

Books, Inc. & Schiffer Publishing, Ltd. Schiffer Publishing 4880 Lower Valley Road Atglen, PA 19310 Phone: 610-593-1777 Fax: ThisWeb:E-mail:610-593-2002Info@schifferbooks.comwww.schifferbooks.comtitleisavailableforpromotional or commercial use, including special editions. Contact info@schifferbooks.com for more information.

™ ™ DEDICATION

Publisher: Peg Couch Editor: Katie Weeber

To my mom, Lola, who imparted to me an affinity for crafting, making, and creating, and who encouraged and supported me in all of my endeavors. Love you, Mom!

Cover/Book Designer: Michael Douglas Diagrams on pages 148, 149, 150, 151, 152 by Mollie Johanson Photography on pages, 4, 5, 6, 13,15,17, 29, 37, 45, 55, 63, 71, 81, 89, 97, 107, 117, 127, 137, 153, cover, and back cover by Jason Masters / Photostyling by Lori Wenger All rights reserved. No part of this work may be produced or used in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying or information storage and retrieval systems — without written permission from the publisher. “Better Day Books,” the floral book logo, and “It’s a Good Day to Have a Better Day” are trademarks of Better Day Books, Inc. “Schiffer,” “Schiffer Publishing, Ltd.,” and the pen and inkwell logo are registered trademarks of Schiffer Publishing, Ltd.

FRESHLY St itched MODERN EMBROIDERY for Absolute Beginners CELESTE JOHNSTON Lemon Made Shop ™ ™ ™

3044 36 54 62 Contents Welcome 7 Meet the Author 8 Getting Started 11 Botanical Sampler 30 The Projects 35 Botanical Trio 36 Plants on Pink 44 French Knot Flowers 54 Grow 62 Desert Night 70 Tiny Terrarium 80 Let Love Bloom 88 Fresh Florals 96 Cuppa Wildflowers 106 Greener by the Dozen 116 Slow Living 126 Happy Houseplants 136 Appendix 147 Embroidery Stitch Library 148 Floss Color Index 154 Color Theory 155 Patterns 156

136 126 116 80 70 96 106 88

For centuries, embroidery has been present in many cultures around the world as a form of expressive art and function. Today, embroidery is alive and thriving, with an emergence of modern, inviting, playful, and uplifting designs and patterns readily available. I was drawn to embroidery because I realized it encouraged me to unplug, slow down, and create something beautiful with my hands. Since then, I’ve learned that embroidery has so many other perks too. I love the simplicity of embroidery. Essentially, embroidery is as simple as freely drawing or writing on fabric and then filling in the drawing with beautiful color. The gentle weaving of the needle up and down through the fabric is truly a therapeutic creative outlet that will keep your hands engaged for hours. The selection of your subject matter and fabric and floss color combinations is boundless. The process of filling in your designs will leave you with a feeling of accomplishment. And you’ll find that there are always new stitches to learn and skills to improve and build on when you’re ready.

I hope you love the botanical-themed patterns I’ve created for Freshly Stitched, whether you’re here for the bright florals, the green and growing houseplants, or both. Please enjoy! Love,

7 Welcome

Practically speaking, embroidery is a convenient hobby because the supplies are inexpensive, minimal, and portable. Stitching outside at the park is one of my favorite things to do in the spring. And packing up my embroidery supplies is so easy to do! Because the setup for embroidery is so minimal, it’s a great craft for someone who may have only a few moments a day to devote to a hobby.

Once you get started with the sampler and tutorials at the beginning of this book, you’ll be well on your way to joining the club of embroidery lovers. I’m sure you’ll be creating stunning works of art for your home or gifts for your loved ones in no time.

Hello! Thank you for picking up this book. I’m excited for all the joy you have coming your way through the fulfilling, creative, and therapeutic process of embroidery. If you’ve never picked up a needle and thread before, I’m so happy you’re here. I think you’ll figure out pretty quickly that embroidery is an absolutely captivating hobby. If you’re an experienced stitcher, I’m glad you’re here, too, and I’m honored and appreciative that you want to make something new today with my patterns!

Being a mom, artist, author, and entrepreneur is a lot to balance. I have to carefully choose what I commit to, which means getting comfortable with saying no when something doesn’t fit or bring me joy. I sometimes struggle with meeting the demands of my family and work. Ultimately, I put my family’s needs first because I recognize that these years are fleeting. Thankfully, I have a supportive husband who has an equal hand in parenting our kids. What do you hope readers will get from this book? I hope they will feel empowered to create something new with the patterns and instructions I have provided. I hope they make a lifelong connection with embroidery. And I hope they gain as much happiness from this fulfilling craft as I have.

What do you love about embroidery?

Stitch & Chat with Celeste Johnston

I love the warmth and texture a piece of embroidery brings to a space. I also love how easy it is to sit down and pick up without mess or preparation. However, it’s the process that draws me in. The rhythmic motion of filling in patterns with beautiful colors is very therapeutic. It’s a hobby that has been engaging women for hundreds of years, and I love being a part of that heritage. Where do you live? My family and I live right outside Austin, Texas, and I am originally from Peoria, Illinois. We love living in the Austin area because of the amazing food, abundance of parks and trails, the music scene, and the community we’ve formed together with our friends and neighbors. Do you have a designated studio? Where do you stitch? I share a home workspace with my husband, Taylor. I use my desk for sketching, transferring patterns, choosing floss colors, and working on the business side of my art. But I usually stitch on my comfy couch in front of the TV, or outside watching my kids play, or in a coffee shop listening to podcasts, audiobooks, or phenomenal playlists that my husband creates for me. Your work is filled with beautiful botanicals; did you start with this theme, or did it evolve? I started embroidering cacti and succulents because they’re such fun and colorful objects to stitch! I also love to stitch flowers, words, and animals. Some of my most popular designs are from my 50-states collection, where I stitch an outline of a state and fill it with native plants and landscapes. Do you garden or have a house full of plants? I am a budding gardener! I love to pick out different annuals to add to our flower beds each spring, and tending to our yard and flowers is one of my favorite daily activities. My favorite flowers are peonies, cosmos, zinnias, coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, and cheerful chamomile. The list could go on. Honestly, I love all flowers! As far as houseplants, I have a LOT, and I have to exert quite a bit of self-control to keep that number from growing too high. You have a significant following on Instagram; can you tell us how that platform inspires your work and why you think it’s so popular?

Meet the Author 8

In addition to being a busy designer, artist, and entrepreneur, you are a mama to two adorable kiddos. How do you balance it all?

StitchingCeleste’sPlaylist “Walking Far from Home” BY IRON & WINE “Appointments” BY JULIEN BAKER “River” BY LEON BRIDGES “Love Yourself” BY SUFJAN STEVENS “This Feeling” BY ALABAMA SHAKES “Cold Little Heart” BY MICHAEL KIWANUKA “A Change Is Gonna Come” BY SAM COOKE “You Can Have It All” BY YO LA TENGO “I Want a Pair of Cowboy Boots” BY JENS LEKMAN “Smoke Signals” BY PHOEBE BRIDGERS “Slow Show” BY THE NATIONAL “Postcards from Italy” BY BEIRUT “Rainbow” BY KACEY MUSGRAVES “The Voyager” BY JENNY LEWIS “The Greatest” BY LANA DEL REY “Seventeen” BY SHARON VAN ETTEN “Love Is Light” BY YOLA “Marigolds” BY KISHI BASHI

I love being a part of the global embroidery community through Instagram. It’s incredible to see the variety of art created with the simple medium of needle and thread. My Instagram account started as a way to share with friends, and it grew organically to a community of more than 50,000. I’m pretty introverted and never expected to have such an audience, and now—a book! I think it is enjoyed by so many because I share tutorials and tips for embroidery. I try to be consistent in my style and authentic to myself, sharing highs and lows. I engage with my “Instagram friends” as if they are friends in real life, having conversations about stitching, life, plants, and everything in between.

Get ting Started If you’re new to the world of embroidery, the tutorials in this section will provide all the information you need to get started. Be sure to stitch the sampler project to practice the stitches and develop your skills. For even more information, check out the Appendix on page 147. Let’s start stitching! 11

Fabric

Type If you’re a beginner, I recommend a loose-weave fabric like muslin or osnaburg. These fabrics will help you practice the basics of stitching because the needle and floss can slide through them so easily. They’re inexpensive, come in natural or white colors, and are readily available at any craft or fabric store. My favorite fabric for beginners and experienced stitchers alike is Kona cotton. If that’s not available to you, choose any high-quality quilting cotton, which will have a high thread count, feel very smooth, and suit nearly any embroidery project. I also frequently stitch on linen or linen blend Embroideryfabrics.on

thick or stiff fabrics such as denim or canvas is possible, but these are a bit of a challenge to stitch through. Avoid any fabrics with stretch because they will warp your designs. Color Choosing just the right colors for your projects can be such a fun exercise in creativity. When it comes to fabric, I prefer stitching on solid colors, but feel free to get adventurous and choose a fabric with a subtle pattern. When I stitch on a light color, like white or peach, I like to double up the fabric to create an opaque background. It’s slightly easier to transfer patterns onto light fabrics than dark ones, which is something to keep in mind when choosing your fabric colors. While transferring the pattern may be more challenging, it is possible to stitch on dark fabrics. You can read about your options and try it out with the Desert Night project on page 70. Preparing Your Fabric

• Decide if you want to use one or two layers of the fabric, depending on its thickness and color

• Use a good pair of fabric scissors to trim your fabric to size I recommend trimming your fabric into a square with 2–3 inches of excess on all sides 12

Before you start stitching, there are just a few things you’ll need to do to prepare your fabric

When you set out to embroider a design, the first element to consider is your background fabric This is the foundation of your project that will allow your beautiful stitching to shine Choosing the wrong fabric will result in puckering or stretching, which would be such a disappointment after putting your time and effort into stitching the design My best advice is to keep it simple—choose a common quilting cotton or linen fabric with no elasticity To expand on that, here are a few details to keep in mind

• If you’re stitching on fabric that will be removed from the hoop once the project is complete—a shirt, for example—preshrink it by washing it before stitching

• If your fabric has substantial wrinkles, iron it before transferring your pattern onto it

You know you love embroidery when you behave like a kid in a candy store in the thread aisle, adding to your basket each and every color that catches your eye It’s a good thing that embroidery floss (or thread) is inexpensive because you’ll want to have a variety of colors on hand to experiment with different combinations Type Basic cotton embroidery floss is sold in skeins of six strands loosely banded together. For the projects in this book, you’ll need one skein or less of each color noted in the supplies list. The project instructions also note how many strands of each color you’ll use to stitch the different areas of a Indesign.addition to the ever-popular and versatile cotton floss, you’ll find specialty flosses like pearl (perle), satin, metallic, tapestry wool, or silk. These are fun to incorporate into your pieces, especially the Tiny Terrarium project on page 80. In that project, you’ll also get to experiment with adding beads to your embroidery. Beads and sequins can be stitched onto your fabric to add a bit of sparkle and shine to your work. Don’t be overwhelmed by these embellishments—use them only as you wish as you advance in your stitching skills. Storage There are several ways to store embroidery floss. Some stitchers like to wind their floss on small white bobbins and store them in a thread organizer. Others use clothespins or wooden spools to keep their floss neat and tangle free.

TIP: Keep long floss scraps to use for other projects. I keep a little jar at my workspace for these useful leftovers.

Floss

One of the many reasons embroidery is a beloved and timeless hobby is because the necessary tools are inexpensive and easily accessible If you’re a crafty person, you probably have most of these essentials in your home already Here are the tools you’ll want on hand in your embroidery basket Hoops. Embroidery hoops are made of a metal tightening mechanism and two rings that grasp your fabric and hold it taut, creating the right surface for stitching. You can find embroidery hoops in all sizes, but for this book, you’ll need only 4", 5", 6", and 7" hoops. You can purchase hoops at your local craft store. Also keep an eye out for them while shopping at thrift stores. Scissors. Keep two types of scissors on hand in your embroidery basket: fabric shears and embroidery scissors. The shears are for cutting your fabric to size. The small and very sharp embroidery scissors are for trimming threads, especially in compact spaces. Needles. For the projects in this book, basic size 5 embroidery needles are perfect. If you want to try a few different sizes, purchase a pack of assorted-size embroidery needles so you can experiment. These may also be labeled crewel needles. Needle minder or pin cushion. You’ll want to have a place to set aside your needle when you need to take a break or change floss colors. Use a magnetic needle minder or a pin cushion to keep your needle from getting lost. Needle threader. This optional tool can be very helpful for threading your needle. Glue. Fabric-safe glue can be used to finish the back of your embroidery project. Cardstock. Thick paper like cardstock is useful for finishing the back of an embroidery project. Transfer pens. There are several types of fabric transfer pens available to you. I like to use a black heat-erasable pen for most projects. Once you finish stitching, you use a hairdryer to erase any visible pen marks. You may also like a blue watersoluble marker, which washes away with water once you’re finished stitching. A chalk pencil is handy for transferring patterns onto dark fabrics. Carbon paper. Tracing patterns onto dark or thick fabrics is difficult. Instead, I use these tissue-thin transfer sheets. You’ll find them in the needle arts aisle of your local craft store.

Embroidery Tools

Carbon transfer paper works really well when you’re using dark or thick fabrics that you can’t see through to trace a pattern. To transfer a pattern using carbon paper, layer the pieces together with your fabric on the bottom, then the transfer paper, then the pattern on top. Use a stylus or ballpoint pen to trace over the pattern. The pressure will transfer the pattern lines onto your fabric. If the transfer is light, use a transfer pen to touch up the lines so you can clearly see where to stitch. This is my preferred method for transferring patterns onto dark fabric. Fabric Stabilizer

These paper or fabric sheets are also sold at your local craft store. To use this method, you’ll transfer the pattern onto the stabilizer, then attach the stabilizer to your hooped fabric following the package instructions provided. You stitch right on top of the stabilizer and then remove the excess when you’re finished.

STEP 3: Trace. Take your time and trace the pattern carefully. Once you finish, remove your fabric from the light source and make any necessary touch-ups with your transfer pen.

STEP 2: Choose your light source. Using tape, secure your pattern over a light source. I like to create a makeshift light table with my phone’s flashlight and a tote lid. Center your fabric over the pattern. Choose a tracing pen.

Transferring Your Pat t ern

STEP 1: Trim the fabric. Cut a square of fabric slightly larger than your chosen pattern. I like to leave 2" of extra fabric on all sides of the design. Iron out any wrinkles. Note: If you use two layers of fabric for stitching, you only need to transfer your pattern onto the top layer.

Step by Step: Tracing Your Pattern

Transfer Paper

Once you’ve chosen your fabric, you’ll need to transfer a pattern onto it The patterns for the projects in this book start on page 156 Copy a pattern from the book and use one of the methods below to transfer it onto your fabric Tracing Use your preferred fabric transfer pen to trace the design onto your fabric. You can tape the pattern to a sunny window, tape the fabric on top, and then trace the design. This method is easy and cost effective! You can also use a light table or create a makeshift one by using your phone’s flashlight and a clear tote lid. My preferred method is a makeshift light table with a heaterasable pen, pictured at the right. To make the pattern easier to see behind the fabric, especially if your fabric is dark, go over the lines of the pattern with a dark, fine-tipped marker before tracing.

2 3 1 19

STEP 1: Separate the hoops. Separate the inner and outer hoops by unscrewing the tightening mechanism and pulling the hoops apart.

STEP 6: Check the fabric. Take your time and be sure the fabric is centered, pucker and wrinkle free, and taut. Your fabric should be drum tight, meaning it will sound like a drum when you tap it with your fingers.

After you’ve transferred your pattern to the fabric, you’ll secure the fabric in an appropriately sized embroidery hoop Use the size listed at the beginning of the project to choose a wooden or plastic hoop that nicely frames the design You’ll need a clean, flat surface like a desk or table to set your hoop

STEP 5: Pull the fabric tight. Work your way around the hoop, gently pulling the fabric taut around the edges every quarter turn. Be sure to keep the design centered in the hoop.

Set t ing Your Hoop

STEP 4: Secure the hoops. Carefully tighten the screw on the outer hoop to hold the hoops in place.

STEP 3: Put the hoops together. Keeping the design centered neatly in the hoops, press down on the outer hoop. It will expand to fit over the inner hoop, sandwiching the fabric in between.

STEP 2: Position the fabric. Lay your fabric on top of the inner hoop, centering the design over it. Place the outer hoop on top of your fabric.

Step by Step: Setting Your Hoop

1 2

35 46 21

STEP 3: Pull. Pull on the single strand with one hand while you hold the rest of the floss in place with the other hand. Once the strand is separated completely, set it aside.

Embroidery floss is made up of six strands You can vary the number of strands you use to stitch your design to create different looks When you’re stitching the projects in this book, the instructions will note the number of strands needed for each element in the design Now that you’ve set your hoop, it’s time to separate the number of strands you need from your embroidery floss skein, thread your needle, and start stitching

31 42

Step by Step: Separating the Floss

S t itching

STEP 1: Cut the floss. Cut a length of floss about 12" to 18" long.

STEP 2: Separate the strands. At one end of the floss, use your fingers to separate one strand from the rest.

STEP 4: Repeat. Repeat until you have as many strands as you need for your design. Lay them together.

STEP 4: Practice stitching. Now you’re ready to stitch away! Try a few up-and-down straight stitches to get the feel of embroidery. Make the Botanical Sampler project on page 30 to practice your stitches.

STEP 3: Bring the needle to the front. Starting with the needle behind the fabric, push it through to the front, pulling the floss with it. The knot you made in Step 2 will secure the end of your floss at the back of the fabric.

Step by Step: Start Stitching STEP 1: Thread the needle. Hold your embroidery needle in one hand. In your other hand, hold the very end of the floss strands between your thumb and index finger. It may help to lightly dampen the floss. Press the eye of the needle over the end of the floss. (You can also use a needle threader instead.)

STEP 3: Finish. Trim the floss tails to about 1/4" long.

STEP 2: Secure the thread. Tie a single knot in the tail of the floss about 1/4" from the end.

31 42 31 2

STEP 2: Tie the floss. Split the strands of floss into two evenly sized bundles and tightly tie them into a knot against the fabric.

Step by Step: Finish Stitching STEP 1: Trim the floss. When you’ve finished stitching, are nearing the end of the floss, or want to switch colors, bring the floss to the back of the fabric and trim it, leaving a 2" tail.

Embroidery can be so fun and completely captivating that you may not notice the hours passing by Here are some tips for keeping your stitch sessions relaxing, enjoyable, and frustration free

otes About Self-Care

Lighting All that time spent carefully concentrating on your work can strain your body and eyes. Protect your eyes by stitching in bright, natural light (you can even work outdoors in the shade!). If you have to stitch at night, invest in a craft lamp that can be positioned directly over your work. I like to clamp a small book light onto the edge of my hoop. Proper lighting will make quite a difference in the neatness and consistency of your stitches. Even more important, it will help reduce eye strain. Posture As you work, take note of your posture. It is ideal to work seated in a supportive chair. Pay attention to signs that your neck, back, or hands need a rest. It may help to set a timer at regular intervals as a reminder to stand up, stretch, and take inventory of your environment. You are important, so please remember to take care of yourself! Troubleshooting Tips As you stitch, you’ll inevitably encounter pesky knots. Working slowly with short lengths of floss (18” long or less) will help you keep knots to a minimum. As you pull the floss through the tightly stretched fabric, it will become twisted and strained. Periodically, stop stitching and let your needle hang down from your hoop so the floss can unwind. Then you can start stitching again. If you notice a knot forming as you pull the floss through the fabric, stop as soon as you see it and gently use your needle to pull on the strands and untangle it. Anytime you encounter a problem while you’re stitching, you can always stop, carefully snip the stitches with your embroidery scissors (avoiding the fabric), pull out the floss, and begin again with a new length of floss. Embroidery is a very forgiving craft!

• Remove any remaining transfer pen marks according to your pen’s packaging instructions

Finishing the Backof Your Hoop

• Gently tighten the fabric and check the tension of the hoop’s screw 26

• Ensure your stitching is completely finished—if you use glue to close the back of the hoop, you won’t be able to make edits to the piece later

After you’ve completed a piece of embroidery, it’s time to finish it so you can display it Traditionally, the back of a hoop is stitched closed with a running stitch This pulls together all of the excess fabric, gathering it at the back Then, this is covered with a circle of felt stitched to the excess fabric Alternatively, you can use the quick gluing method outlined on the next page with a fabric-safe glue Either way, before you finish the back of your hoop, there are a few final steps to complete Finishing Touches

• Trim any excess floss tails on the back

41 25 63

STEP 6: Repeat as needed. If you stitched your design on multiple layers of fabric, repeat steps 4 and 5 with the second layer of fabric. Now your hoop is ready to be displayed! Use a small finishing nail, pushpin, or even a bit of twine and colorful washi tape to hang your hoop on the wall. Your finished piece could also rest on a mantle or bookshelf.

STEP 3: Add the circle. Place the cardstock circle in the hoop against the back of your stitches.

TIP: Before adding the circle to the back of your hoop, sign and date it or, if you’re gifting the piece, inscribe a message for the hoop’s recipient on it.

STEP 2: Trim the fabric. Trim the excess fabric at the back of the hoop, leaving about 1" around the edges.

STEP 5: Secure the fabric. Fold the fabric over the edge of the inner hoop and firmly press it in place on the cardstock until it sticks.

STEP 4: Glue. Add a thin ring of fabric-safe glue around the edge of the cardstock circle and the back of the inner hoop.

Step by Step: Finishing the Back STEP 1: Cut the circle. Take an embroidery hoop that’s the same size as your finished project and trace the inner hoop on cardstock. Cut out the circle.

Adding embroidery to your clothing by stitching directly on it or by creating a wearable patch can make such a cool and personal statement. Use any of the patterns in this book, or combine small elements from them, to create just the right design for your Whengarment.stitching on a garment like a hat, shirt, or baby blanket, there are just a few things to keep in mind.

• Wash the fabric to preshrink it so it doesn’t warp or distort your stitching when you wash it later.

Once you get comfortable with embroidery, I think you’ll have a lot of fun thinking outside the hoop and dreaming up projects to wear or share You can add embroidery to clothing, accessories, and pieces of home décor like linen napkins, decorative banners, or pillows, among many other keepsakes and textiles

• Once your stitching is complete, handwash your garment as needed to protect the delicate embroidery.

Wear I t or Share I t

This classic blue chambray shirt gets a little desert flair with some of the cacti found in the Desert Night design on page 70.

A plain pouch is a great surface for any embellishment you’d like. These jungle leaves are from the Botanical Trio design on page 36. The cute tassels can be made using an adapted version of tassel stitch outlined on page 152.

• Use a stabilizer to reinforce your stitching, especially if you’re working on fabric with a little stretch.

• Use a hoop to keep your work surface pulled taut.

• Keep your stitches very short, no longer than 1/4", to avoid loose, pulled stitches.

I used some of the flowers from the Let Love Bloom project on page 88 to accent this yellow cotton dress for my little girl. A cute monogram would also be a lovely touch and make a memorable and treasured gift.

Are you ready to practice some stitches? This Botanical Sampler will help you get acquainted with the fifteen embroidery stitches used to create the projects in this book. Use the pattern on page 33 and the Embroidery Stitch Library on page 148 and dive in. You can use any fabric and floss colors that make you happy to create this design. Botanical Sampler 30

QUICK REFERENCE Backstitch Split Backstitch Satin StitchStem Stitch Straight Stitch Lazy Daisy Chain Stitch Pistil Stitch Fishbone Stitch Seed Stitch Split Stitch French Knots Tassel Stitch Long and Short Stitch Open Fishbone Stitch 32

Botanical Sampler Pattern 33

The Proj ect s I had so much fun creating the projects in this book, and I hope you’ll have just as much fun stitching them. As you prepare to stitch a design, don’t forget—embroidery is an opportunity to express your creativity! Follow the patterns and colors exactly or let your imagination run wild. No matter what, have fun! 35

• Backstitch • Straight stitch SUPPLIES • Three 4" embroidery hoops • Three 7" x 7" pieces of your chosen fabric • One skein of your chosen floss • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 156) Our first project is the very best place to start if you’re brand new to the world of embroidery. This minimalist trio of botanicals is made using the most basic and versatile embroidery stitch: the backstitch! Once you’ve mastered this simple stitch, you can use it for outlining plants, flowers, animals, lettering, and every design in between. Each hoop will take about 45 minutes to stitch, so you can complete the whole collection in an afternoon. To keep things simple for this project, I recommend choosing a high-quality cotton or linen fabric in a solid color and one contrasting floss color. I used an armygreen linen blend with ivory cotton embroidery floss. Feel free to choose your own colors according to your preferences. ■ Botanical Trio 36

TIP: What’s your favorite plant? Once you feel comfortable with your embroidery skills, you can sketch and stitch your most-loved plants, like monsteras, snake plants, ferns, succulents, or pileas, to add to your botanical collection. QUICK REFERENCE Eucalyptus Berries Backstitch | 3 strands Columnar Cactus Backstitch | 6 strands Philodendron Leaf Veins Straight stitch | 3 strands Philodendron Backstitch | 6 strands Eucalyptus Branch & Leaves Backstitch | 6 strands Columnar Cactus Details Backstitch, straight stitch | 3 strands 38

Botanical Trio 39

2 3 1

STEP 1: Prepare your materials. Following the tutorials in the “Getting Started” section, transfer your patterns, set your hoops, and separate your floss. Thread your needle with six strands.

STEP 2: Start the cactus outline. Make a 1/4" stitch along the outline of the cactus, ending with the needle behind the fabric. Bring the needle up through the fabric 1/4” from your first stitch. Stitch backward, pushing your needle through the hole at the end of your first stitch. Your stitches will be touching and sharing the same hole in the fabric. This is called backstitch.

STEP 3: Finish the cactus outline. Continue outlining the four cacti with backstitch. Keep your stitches equal in length as you work your way through the design.

7 6 8 4 5

STEP 6: Stitch the philodendron outline. Using six strands of floss, outline the philodendron leaves in backstitch. For gently curved lines, keep your stitches slightly shorter than 1/4". It's easier to outline curves with short stitches than long stitches.

STEP 5: Stitch the cactus spines. Use three strands of floss for the prickly spines at the top of each cactus. Each spine is a straight stitch, with one end sharing a hole in the fabric with the other stitches at the top center of the cactus. Once you’ve finished stitching, tie and trim your floss behind the fabric (see page 23). Admire your work (ta-da!) and set it aside to continue with the trio.

Botanical Trio 40

STEP 8: Stitch the leaf veins. Using three strands of floss, stitch the leaf veins. Make one long straight stitch for the center vein, then stitch the shorter veins, starting at the edge of the leaf and stitching to the center.

STEP 4: Stitch the cactus details. Thread your needle with three strands of floss and use backstitch to stitch the inner lines of the four cacti.

STEP 7: Stitch the stems. Using six strands of floss and 1/4" backstitches, stitch the philodendron stems.

STEP 9: Stitch the eucalyptus branch. Using six strands of floss and 1/4" backstitches, stitch the center stem and twigs.

11 12 109

STEP 10: Stitch the leaves. Using six strands of floss and short backstitches, outline the leaves. The smaller your stitches are, the smoother the curves will be. However, you don’t need to make these leaves perfectly round.

STEP 11: Stitch the berries. Using three strands of floss and tiny backstitches, stitch the berries and twigs.

STEP 12: Finish. Take a look at all of your freshly stitched hoops together! Follow the steps on page 27 to finish each hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed.

STITCH DIARY

“Looking forward to things is half the pleasure of them.” —L. M. MONTGOMERY, Anne of Green Gables

This happens to be the top plant on my wish list, but for now, an embroidered specimen will keep me company! Also featured in the trio is a branch of silver dollar eucalyptus, which frequently can be found in a mason jar on my kitchen counter. I love the feel of the soft leaves and their fresh, invigorating scent. Rounding out the trio is a grouping of columnar cacti, a common prickly plant found here in the southwestern US. What are your favorite plants? Use the space below to list them. Commit to learning how to stitch them and make an embroidered garden all your own!

This botanical trio features the big, velvety leaves of Philodendron gloriosum

• Fishbone stitch • Split backstitch • Satin stitch • Straight stitch SUPPLIES • 6" embroidery hoop • 10" x 10" piece of your chosen pink fabric • 1 skein each of light green, forest green, army green, ivory, and terracotta floss • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 157) Have you checked out #PlantsOnPink on Instagram? If you haven’t, I encourage you to peruse it, especially if you’re like me and can’t get enough cheery pink and houseplant inspiration. The combination of pink walls with vibrant shades of green plants is sure to brighten your day, and it serves as my inspiration for this Withproject.thisproject, you’ll learn how to fill in shapes with a few common and handy fill stitches. First, I’m so excited to show you the fishbone stitch. It’s a fabulous choice for creating leaves and a stitch you’ll want to master if you love botanical designs. Next, we’ll practice split backstitch, a variation of backstitch that happens to be just as easy and versatile. And last, we’ll practice satin stitch, which produces that smooth, shiny, quintessential embroidery look. ■ Plant s on Pink 44

TIP: Good lighting makes a big difference for these stitches. Because you want your fill stitches to be compact, straight, and neat, it’s essential to be able to see exactly where to place your needle. Working in adequate lighting allows you to achieve this and, equally important, will prevent you from straining your eyes. Working slowly also helps improve the quality of your stitches, so take your time.

STEP 3: Start the fishbone stitch. Start the fishbone stitch with one long straight stitch down the center of a leaf, from the tip to about three-quarters of the way to the base. s

Plant

STEP 1: Prepare your materials. Following the tutorials in the “Getting Started” section, transfer your pattern, set your hoop, and separate your floss. Thread your needle with four strands of forest green floss.

2 3 1

on Pink 47

STEP 2: Stitch the philodendron stems. Stitch the philodendron stems, using long straight stitches for the three straight stems and a few short backstitches for the curved stem.

STEP 4: Continue the fishbone stitch. Start the second stitch by bringing the needle out on the top left side of the first stitch at the edge of the leaf. Cross over the first stitch, ending just to the right of it in the middle of the leaf. Repeat on the opposite side of the leaf.

4 65 Plant s on Pink

STEP 5: Finish filling the leaf. Continue these crisscrossing stitches to the base of the leaf, keeping the stitches parallel to one another on each side. Once you meet the stem, there will be some open space in the bottom corners of the leaf. Fill these in with close, parallel stitches that meet at or near the stem.

STEP 6: Fill the remaining leaves. Repeat steps 3 through 5 to fill the three remaining leaves with fishbone stitch. Make sure your crisscrossing stitches follow the contoured edges of the leaves. Keep the stitches close together so no fabric shows through.

STEP 7: Add the leaf veins. Thread your needle with two strands of light green floss. On each leaf, make one long stitch down the center, then add a few straight stitches from the centerline to the edge on each side.

STEP 8: Start stitching the pot. Using six strands of terracotta floss, fill the terracotta pot with satin stitch. Start the stitch at the top left side of the pot and end it directly opposite on the right side of the pot, forming a horizontal line.

STEP 9: Stitch to the bottom of the pot. Continue filling in the pot, making close, parallel horizontal stitches from the left side to the right. Stitch around the space for the basket handle on the right side. Pull each stitch taut—the idea is to make them smooth like satin. I’ll admit, my stitches can be a little rough sometimes, but I think this creates a more realistic look! Your stitches don’t have to be perfect.

STEP 13: Stitch the ivory plant basket. Using six strands of ivory floss, satin stitch the body of the plant basket.

STEP 10: Start stitching the cacti. Using six strands of army green floss, start making split backstitches to fill the cacti. Start at the base of the left cactus and make a 1/4" stitch along the outline. Bring your needle up through the fabric about 1/4" away from the end of the first stitch. Stitch backward, pushing your needle through the middle of the first stitch. This will split the six strands of floss in half, creating a unique bumpy texture that’s perfect for these cacti.

STEP 11: Finish stitching the cacti. Continue making split backstitches along the outline of the cactus. Then, add additional rows of split backstitch to fill the center of the cactus, following the shape of the outline. Fill the remaining two cacti with split backstitches in the same way. To create the coarse texture, keep your stitches close together, but don’t pull them too tight.

131210 11 Plant s on Pink

STEP 12: Stitch the cactus accents. Using three strands of ivory floss, add two lines of 1/4" straight stitches on top of each cactus.

STEP 16: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish the back of the hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed.

15 16 STEP14 14: Stitch the basket handles. Using six strands of ivory floss, make split backstitches along the lines for the basket handles, creating a ropelike effect. Use small stitches, about 1/8" long, to follow the curves.

STEP 15: Finish stitching the pot. Using six strands of terracotta floss, satin stitch the portion of the pot that peeks out from behind the left basket handle. You’ll need only about four short stitches.

Not only are philodendrons gorgeous to look at and perfect for creating an inviting and cozy living space, their large leaves make them one of the best plants for improving the air quality of your home. Many people find owning any type of houseplant therapeutic. The mindful process of nurturing and caring for a living thing can be a mood booster or have a calming effect. Aside from their beautiful shapes and colors, some of the reasons that I enjoy filling my home with plants is the sense of peace and purpose I get in caring for them. Are you a Plant Mama or Papa? What is it about keeping and caring for houseplants that captivates you?

STITCH DIARY

“If you suddenly and unexpectedly feel joy, don’t hesitate. Give into it.” —MARY OLIVER

French knots are my favorite embroidery stitch because I love the look and woolly feel they create, but they can be a bit tricky to learn. I wanted to include this project at the beginning of the book so you can practice French knots and feel confident using them whenever a pattern calls for them. You should also feel free to use French knots wherever you want to add a pop of color to a design.

■ French

STITCHES • French knot • Backstitch • Stem stitch SUPPLIES • 5" embroidery hoop • 9" x 9" piece of your chosen fabric • 1 skein each of yellow, medium green, sage green, and white floss • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page

I chose this design because clusters of closely stitched French knots give embroidered flowers a beautiful and realistic texture. And what better way to practice French knots than with a pattern that’s full of them! If you’re new to these stitches, have no fear. I know you can make them! Take a close look at the instructions and try out a few French knots on some spare fabric. Have patience with yourself, and take note of your progress as they become easier. Once you’ve gained the muscle memory, you’ll be stitching them in your sleep! Knot Flowers 158)

TIP: I encourage you to use a color that’s pleasing to you for the main flowers of this hoop. There are many different round pom-pom-like flowers found in nature that could be represented with this pattern. Try purple amaranth, pink thistle, fuchsia allium, blue eryngium, green dianthus, red dahlia, or white dandelions. Or use shades of brown for an autumnal dried floral look. I chose yellow craspedia (Billy buttons) because I can’t get enough of these warm, golden-yellow flowers. QUICK REFERENCE Baby’s Breath White | French knots | 6 strands Stems Sage green | Backstitch, straight stitch | 3 strands Craspedia Yellow | French knots | 6 strands Stems Medium green | Stem stitch | 4 strands Accents White, yellow | French knots | 6 strands 56

STEP 3: Finish stitching the stems. Continue the stem stitch until you reach the end of the first stem. Repeat to stitch the second and third stems. Use a fresh length of floss for each stem so you don’t have to stop stitching in the middle.

STEP 2: Start stitching the stems. Make a 1/4" stitch along a craspedia stem line, but don’t pull the thread all the way through. Instead, gently hold the thread to the side, making a small arch. Bring your needle up between the ends of the arch. Now pull the thread all the way through the fabric, pulling the arch flat. Make another straight stitch, holding the thread to the side to make a small arch. Bring your needle up between the ends of the arch, using the same hole as the end of the arch from the first stitch. This is stem stitch.

French Knot Flowers 2 3 1 57

French Knot Flowers

STEP 4: Start a French knot. Thread your needle with six strands of yellow floss. Bring your needle up through the fabric along one of the flower head outlines. Put your hoop down on your table (you’ll need two hands for this stitch!). Hold the floss perpendicular to your fabric with one hand, gripping it tightly a few inches above the fabric.

STEP 5: Wrap the floss. Place your needle against the back of the floss and hold it in place while you wrap the floss around it one or two times. I like to wrap the floss around the needle two times to create bigger knots.

STEP 8: Stitch the baby’s-breath stems. Using three strands of sage green floss, backstitch the baby’s-breath stems. Add straight stitches for the little branches.

7 8 9 4 5 6 58

STEP 7: Fill the craspedia flowers. Fill all the flower heads with French knots. Start by making a ring of French knots along the flower outlines, then fill in the centers with tightly packed French knots.

STEP 9: Stitch the baby’s-breath blooms. Using six strands of white floss, add French knots to the end of each baby’s-breath branch. Vary the knots in clusters of one, two, or three per branch. When you wrap the floss around your needle, try wrapping it one to three times to vary the size of your blooms.

STEP 6: Finish the French knot. With the looped floss on it, carefully push your needle through the fabric, just next to the starting point. Use one hand to hold the floss out to the side, keeping it taut. As you pull the needle through the fabric, gradually and steadily release the floss. You will be left with a tidy knot on top of your fabric.

1012

STEP 11: Add yellow accents. Using six strands of yellow floss, add French knots to the remaining dots on the pattern.

You can apply a wood stain to wooden embroidery hoops to change the color to fit your style.

STEP 12: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish the hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed. 11 59

STEP 10: Add white accents. Using six strands of white floss, add French knots as accents to a few of the dots shown on the pattern—or wherever you see fit!

STITCH DIARY

—LADY BIRD JOHNSON Craspedia, commonly called Billy buttons or woolly heads, are members of the daisy family and native to Australia. You can find these adorable yellow globes fresh at farmers’ markets or specialty florist shops. If you dry them, you can keep them for years — just remove them from water and hang them upside down until dry. I have a bouquet of them that is about eight years old in my workspace. They still look cheery and whimsical and remind me of the day I received them from one of my first-grade students. The craspedia symbolizes good health (according to the language of flowers, which was established in the nineteenth century by floral enthusiasts). Baby’s breath (also featured in this design) symbolizes everlasting love and serves as a reminder to cherish our loved ones.

Is there a flower that holds a special meaning for you? Use the space below to write the name of the flower and what it symbolizes to you. 61

“Almost every person, from childhood, has been touched by the untamed beauty of wildflowers.”

Adding text to your embroidery designs is as simple as writing a favorite word, quote, or phrase. Lettering can add a lot of personalization and give a special touch to a multitude of treasured embroidery projects. Usually when I add words to my embroidery, use my own cursive handwriting. (Shout out to my beloved second-grade teacher, Miss Kirst, for those long choose font computer use stitch backstitch, stem or split look block

stitch,

text later in the book. ■ STITCHES • Backstitch • Straight stitch • Satin stitch • French knot SUPPLIES • 5" embroidery hoop • 9" x 9" piece of your chosen fabric • 1 skein each of light green, army green, salmon, and yellow floss • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 159) 62

Alternatively,ago!)youcan

to outline your lettering. I suggest

Grow

at filling in

nearly any

stitch for most lettering. We’ll take a

lessons

or tablet, print your text, and transfer it onto the fabric. You can

on your

TIP: The trickiest part of working with text is making sure your words are centered, evenly spaced, and aligned, which will come to you with practice. As you set your hoop, be sure to pull the fabric gently and evenly, tightening the screw every quarter turn. This will ensure your words transfer neatly and don’t warp. QUICK REFERENCE Grow Lettering Army green | Backstitch | 6 strands Flower Stems Light green | Backstitch | 3 strands Flowers Salmon | Straight stitch | 6 strands Flower Centers & Accents Yellow | French knots | 6 strands Leaf Stems Army green | Straight stitch | 3 strands Leaves Light green | Satin stitch | 3 strands 64

STEP 4: Stitch the leaf stems. Using three strands of army green floss, make a tiny straight stitch for each leaf stem.

2 43 1 Grow

STEP 2: Stitch the letter g. Use 1/4" backstitches to stitch the letter g and its curvy, long tail. Keep your stitches short to ensure the letter is gently curved, with no sharp edges.

STEP 3: Stitch the remaining letters. Continue using backstitch to complete the word “grow.”

85 9 6 7 Grow

STEP 9: Stitch the flower stems. Using three strands of the light green floss, stitch the flower stems with one or two backstitches.

STEP 5: Start filling in the leaves. Using three strands of light green floss, fill the leaves with vertical satin stitches. Keep your stitches small, starting at the edge of the leaf and angling them to meet at the stem. Your stitches may overlap slightly. To start, make one stitch down the center of a leaf from the tip to the stem.

STEP 6: Make the second stitch. Make the second stitch parallel to the first one. Bring your needle out along the edge of the leaf next to the first stitch, and end in the middle of the leaf.

STEP 7: Finish the leaf half. Depending on the size of the leaf, you’ll need about two to four more stitches to finish filling in the first half. Your stitches can meet in the same hole as the first stitch, meet at the stem, or be tucked in just below where the leaf meets the stem.

STEP 8: Finish filling in the leaves. Repeat steps 5 through 7 to fill in the other half of the leaf and the remaining leaves.

STEP 10: Stitch the flower petals. Using six strands of salmon floss, make a short straight stitch for each flower petal. Leave a tiny space for the flower centers.

STEP 12: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish the hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed.

STEP 11: Add the flower centers and accents. Using six strands of yellow floss, add French knots to each flower center and anywhere a dot is shown on the pattern. To keep the French knots small, wrap the floss around your needle once when making them.

1012 11

STITCH DIARY

“Like wildflowers, you must allow yourself to grow in all the places people thought you never would.”

The word “grow” can mean so many different things to us. Of course, when we think of our houseplants and gardens, we just want them to grow and thrive and bloom! If you’re a parent, you’re probably concerned with all the areas of growth our children experience. I often think of my growth as a person — how over the years I’ve gradually become more of myself and felt proud of the person I am. I look to my younger self and feel love and gratitude for the bravery and work I put into building my career, family, and friendships. I just want to give young me a big hug! I look to my future self and think about the areas of my life I’d like to deepen, and I feel hopeful about the growth that is to come. What does “grow” mean to you?

Pondering this word can help us pause and reflect, and that’s why I think it makes such an impact to hang it on your wall in a prominent place where you’ll see it often. 69

—E. V. RIEU

Desert Night

■ STITCHES • Satin stitch • French knot • Split stitch • Seed stitch • Backstitch • Straight stitch • Long and short stitch • Split backstitch SUPPLIES • 7" embroidery hoop • 11"

light

Using a black or darkcolored fabric as your background makes a vivid statement piece! It may seem a little daunting to transfer and stitch a pattern onto dark fabric, but the end results far outweigh the effort.

green,

and forest green floss • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 160) 70

Chalk pencil. Use these pencils as you would any other transfer pen. Place your fabric over the pattern on top of a light table or taped to a sunny window. This works well if your fabric isn’t too thick. White carbon paper. Place the carbon paper between your pattern and your fabric, with the pattern on top. Trace the pattern with a stylus or pen. You’ll be left with crisp white lines on your dark fabric, making stitching a breeze. If any lines are too faint, I like to trace over them with a chalk pencil. Stabilizer. Trace your pattern onto the stabilizer, then attach the stabilizer to your fabric. Stitch the design over the fabric and stabilizer, then remove the stabilizer when you’re finished. Whichever option you choose, I hope you enjoy stitching this nighttime desert, filled with a bounty of southwestern plants against a deep black, starry sky. x ivory, green, medium pale blue jade green, sage green,

green,

(Hint: make sure you have adequate light while you’re stitching!) There are three ways to transfer a pattern onto dark fabric.

11" piece of your chosen fabric • 1 skein each of

TIP: If you’d rather have a warm and sunny desert scene, swap out the black fabric for a yellow mustard, creamy white, or even a coral- or rustcolored fabric. Take out the stars and turn the crescent moon into a full circle to represent the sun. You could even add small, bright blossoms to the cactus plants to bring in more color and warmth.

STEP 3: Add the mountain details. Using two strands of ivory floss, add a few scattered seed stitches on the peak of each mountain. Seed stitches are simply a random group of straight stitches.

231

STEP 2: Stitch the mountains. Use split stitch to outline the mountain ridges. Start with a straight stitch forward. For the second stitch, bring your needle up through the fabric in the middle of the first stitch, splitting the floss, and stitch forward. The result is a nice, thick line that looks almost like a braid or chain.

Desert Night 73

STEP 1: Prepare your materials. Using materials that pair well with dark fabrics, transfer your pattern, set your hoop, and separate your floss. Thread your needle with six strands of ivory floss.

STEP 7: Finish stitching the saguaro cactus. Continue stitching the saguaro cactus, using 1/4" stitches for each row. Stitch the cactus arms, starting with alternating 1/4" and 1/8" stitches on the first row, then 1/4" stitches for the subsequent rows. Adjust the top few rows of stitches to fit in the outline of the cactus.

6 7 4 5 Desert Night

STEP 4: Outline the moon. Using four strands of ivory floss, outline the moon with backstitch. Creating this outline gives you some extra coverage on the edges of the moon and will help you in the next step.

STEP 5: Fill in the moon and add stars. Using four strands of ivory floss, fill in the moon with satin stitch. Make short horizontal lines that start and end on the outer edges of the outline. Using six strands of ivory floss, add a French knot on each dot in the sky to create a field of stars.

STEP 6: Begin stitching the saguaro cactus. Using six strands of medium green floss, fill in the tall saguaro cactus with long and short stitch. You’ll work in horizontal rows from the bottom up. Alternate 1/4" and 1/8" stitches on the first row.

STEP 11: Stitch the barrel cactus. Using six strands of jade green floss, fill the barrel cactus with split backstitch. Begin with a row along the outline, then continue adding rows to fill the center. Using four strands of ivory floss, split backstitch three curved lines on top of the cactus, starting at the bottom and meeting at the top.

STEP 8: Fill in the prickly pear. Using six strands of light green floss, satin stitch the prickly pear cactus. Start with the lowest paddle. Make a stitch down the center of the paddle from the tip to the base. Make parallel stitches from the edge of the paddle to the base to fill each side. Overlap or make some of the stitches shorter so you’ll have enough room where the paddle narrows. Repeat for the remaining paddles.

STEP 9: Add the prickly pear spines. Using two strands of ivory floss, make short straight stitches to represent spines. Work in a polka-dot-like pattern and allow the outer spines to extend onto the fabric.

STEP 10: Stitch the cholla. Using six strands of sage green floss, backstitch the wild and sharp cholla cactus branch on the left side of the design.

10 11 8 9

141512 13 Desert Night

STEP 14: Add the ground detail. Using six strands of ivory floss, make straight stitches along the ground under the cacti. 76

STEP 13: Stitch the tall agave bloom. Using six strands of pale blue green floss and straight stitches, make the tall stem and branches. Add a French knot at the end of each branch to represent the flowers.

STEP 12: Fill in the agave plant. Using six strands of pale blue green floss, fill the agave plant with vertical satin stitches. Start with a stitch down the center of the middle leaf from tip to base. Fill each side of the leaf with parallel stitches, working from the edge to the base. Overlap or make some of the stitches shorter so you’ll have enough room where the leaf narrows. Repeat for the remaining leaves.

STEP 16: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish the hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed. 77

STEP16 15: Add the yucca plants. Stitch the yucca plants by using six strands of forest green floss and 1/2" straight stitches that share an endpoint at the center of each plant.

Try stitching these cacti on a denim or chambray shirt to display your affection for desert life! Take a look at the shirt at the right to get some inspiration. Use the whole pattern, or simply select a few plants that you’d like to trace onto your garment. Add cactus blooms with straight stitches or French knots for a bit of color.

Even if you live in a cold climate, you can bring a little bit of the desert into your home with a potted cactus. These plants do quite well indoors because they thrive in dry air. They can get by with just a few hours of sunlight a day, but try to place them in a bright, sunny room and pot them in a sandy potting mix. Water them sparingly, just a little every couple of weeks. If your cactus is really happy, you might even get a colorful bloom or two! I grew up in the Midwest, and I remember the first time I saw cacti in the desert with my own eyes. I was enthralled by them, and I still am! (Although I certainly miss the flowers and foliage of my home state.)

STITCH DIARY

“You do not just wake up and become the butterfly.”

—RUPI KAUR, Growth Is a Process

Think about your surroundings for a moment. What type of environment do you need to flourish and grow? Use the space below to describe it.

beads (optional) • Embroidery scissors • Beading (optional)needle • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 161) 80

■ STITCHES • Satin stitch • Straight stitch • Backstitch SUPPLIES • 4" embroidery hoop • 8" x 8" piece of your chosen fabric • 1 skein each of light green, bright green,

green,

green, lavender, ivory, brown, and

Metallic, satin, pearl (perle), and variegated floss, sequins and beads oh my! What catches your eye when you meander down the beautiful needle arts aisle of the craft store? With this project, I want to encourage you to explore some of the specialty materials available to accentuate your embroidery art. You’ll find that these flosses and embellishments are easy to incorporate with a little patience and that they get along well together with your regular cotton floss. For this adorable Tiny Terrarium project, you have a lot of room for experimenting with these specialty floss options. I chose gold metallic floss, green and lavender satin floss, and tiny seed beads to add a little contrast and sparkle. Feel free to use these options, too, or pick out whatever sparks joy within you. You’ll need only a short length of each of the flosses you choose, so this is a great opportunity to use some of your leftover floss scraps. Or stitch with a friend so you can share your pretty floss finds. forest seafoam gold bugle

cotton or specialty floss • Brown seed or

Tiny Terrarium

TIPS: Working with metallic or satin floss can be tricky. These persnickety flosses won’t lie as neatly as cotton floss, and because they’re stiffer, they can be difficult to tie in knots. Use them sparingly, and work carefully and slowly with short, 12" pieces to prevent tangles. Some stitchers like to use a threadconditioning balm to tame their floss. When adding beads to your embroidery, be sure to choose a thin needle with an eye that can easily pass through the beads. A size 10 embroidery needle should work, depending on the size of your beads, or you can use a specialty beading needle.

Tiny Terrarium

STEP 3: Add the cactus accents. Using two strands of ivory floss, make three straight stitches on top of the cactus, one down the middle, and one on either side.

STEP 2: Stitch the columnar cactus. Using four strands of forest green floss, fill the columnar cactus with vertical satin stitches.

STEP 4: Fill the Pachyveria succulent. Using four strands of seafoam green floss, fill the five petals of the Pachyveria succulent with vertical satin stitches.

2 3 4 1

STEP 7: Stitch the echeveria succulents. Using four strands of lavender satin floss or six strands of cotton floss, stitch the echeveria succulents with straight stitches that share an endpoint at the center of each plant. You’ll need only three to four stitches per plant.

STEP 6: Stitch the tall sedum succulents. Using four strands of bright green satin floss or six strands of cotton floss, backstitch the tall sedum succulents. Backstitch the center stems, then add the tiny leaves at the points where the backstitches meet. Because satin floss is slippery, you’ll notice it’s hard to tie in the back. Double-knot the tails and handle your embroidery with care to ensure the stitches stay in place.

STEP 8: Start stitching the terrarium. Using two strands of metallic gold floss, stitch the outline of the terrarium, using long straight stitches that span the entire length of each side. Where your stitches meet, they’ll share an endpoint. Work with 12" lengths of floss or shorter to avoid tangles. Metallic floss is stiff and won’t always lie completely flat. Pulled taut, it will make a nice accent for your piece.

57 86 84

STEP 5: Stitch the spiky air plants. Using two strands of light green floss, stitch the air plants by using short straight stitches that share an endpoint at the center of each plant.

Tiny Terrarium

STEP 9: Finish stitching the terrarium. Continue adding the terrarium edges, keeping your stitches taut and parallel to the terrarium outline. When you finish, double-knot the floss in the back and handle it with care.

STEP 12: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish the hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed.

119 1012 85

STEP 10: Start adding the beads. If you’d like to try adding beads, thread your beading needle with one strand of brown floss. Knot the tail of the floss several times so it won’t pull through the fabric. Bring the needle and floss to the front of the fabric where you want to add a bead. Pick up a bead with your needle and string it along the floss down to the fabric.

STEP 11: Finish adding the beads. Finish the stitch by pushing the needle through the fabric right next to the bead. You may want to reinforce it by adding another straight stitch through the bead. Add a bead to each dot shown on the pattern. If you don’t want to add beads, you can use six strands of brown floss and short straight stitches to represent the rocky ground of the terrarium.

If you have trouble keeping succulents alive, you’re not alone! These little beauties are not as easy to care for as some people say. I’ve found that the best way to keep succulents happy indoors is a sunny window spot, properly draining soil, and infrequent watering (or allowing the roots to dry out completely). Another thing to consider is their color. Green succulents survive better indoors, while bright reds, pinks, and purples prefer to be outside, where they can receive full sunlight. Learning what your plants need to thrive, taking the time to care for them, and learning to notice their little signs of growth can be a really fulfilling and soothing hobby. Have you thought about what things you need to grow and feel deeply rooted? Take some time to list those things here.

STITCH DIARY

—MAYA ANGELOU

“The question is not how to survive, but how to thrive with passion, compassion, humor and style.”

■ Let

With the Grow design on page 62, we experimented with outlining text. But you can also use embroidery to create text with more weight, like in this Let Love Bloom design. Really, almost any stitch can be used to fill in block lettering. In this project, I want to highlight two of them: seed stitch and satin stitch. While seed stitch gives you a little bit of fun, silliness, or whimsy, satin stitch provides a bold, solid look and requires careful precision. Which one is more appealing to you— willy-nilly or precise? Feel free to use one of the two stitches for all of the words in this design, or use a combination of the two as I did. Other stitches that work great as fill stitches are long and short stitch (also called brick stitch), French knots, and split stitch. Once you’ve put in a little bit of practice, you can easily stitch your favorite quotes and uplifting phrases or create beautiful personalized keepsakes and monograms. Love Bloom

STITCHES • Backstitch • Seed stitch • Satin stitch • Lazy daisy stitch • Stem stitch • Open fishbone stitch • French knot • Straight stitch SUPPLIES • 6" embroidery hoop • 10" x 10" piece of your chosen fabric • 1 skein each of white, medium green, teal, salmon, and lavender floss • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 162) 88

TIP: When you transfer your pattern, try to align the words with the weave of your fabric and trace the design with a heat- or water-erasable pen. Make sure the weave remains running left to right and up and down in neat rows as you set your hoop and pull the fabric taut. The weave will serve as a guide to help you keep your lettering neat and tidy. You can line up each satin stitch against the weave, even if the tracing becomes a bit warped. Take your time on this part of the project because it really makes a difference in the end product.

Let Love Bloom

STEP 4: Outline “love”. Using three strands of white floss, backstitch the outline of the word “love.” You won’t see this outline in the finished hoop, so it’s okay for the lengths of floss to be uneven. The purpose of this step is to help guide your satin stitches in step 5. 91

STEP 2: Outline “let” and “bloom.” Using 1/4" backstitches, outline the words “let” and “bloom.” Remember to follow the weave of the fabric to keep your stitches neat—your transfer can become warped when you stretch the fabric on the hoop.

STEP 3: Fill the letters. Using three strands of white floss, fill the center of each outlined letter with small seed stitches. Scatter your stitches randomly and keep them even in length.

2 3 4 1

STEP 7: Stitch the wreath stems. Using six strands of medium green floss, outline the stems with backstitch and stem stitch. Use stem stitch for the daisy flower stems and backstitch for the other flower stems. Add straight stitches for the branches of the berry sprigs and the leaves of the daisy stems.

STEP 8: Stitch the daisy flowers. Using six strands of white floss, add three lazy daisy stitches at the top of each daisy stem. Start with a tiny stitch at the top of the stem, but do not pull the thread all the way through. Instead, hold it to the side, creating a loop on top of the fabric. Bring your needle up through the fabric where you want the top of the loop to be, and feed it through the loop. Pull the thread tight to bring the loop down against the fabric. Enter the fabric just above where the needle came out, capturing the loop in the stitch.

STEP 6: Fill in “love.” Using three strands of white floss, fill in the letters of “love” with compact, parallel satin stitches that follow your guide stitches. Stitch right over the outline stitches you made in step 4. Take your time to keep your stitches neat and flat.

657 8 Let Love Bloom

STEP 5: Plan your satin stitches. Before you fill in “love,” determine how you’d like your satin stitches to lie. I like the look of stitches that run evenly from side to side across each letter. Perhaps you’d like to position your stitches diagonally or vertically across your letter. Either way, once you decide, it’s good to take the time and make a few guide stitches (using three strands of white floss). This helps keep your stitches even, aligned, and neat.

119 12

STEP 10: Add the berries. Using six strands of teal floss, make a French knot at the end of each berry twig. Loop your floss around the needle twice when making the knots.

STEP 9: Stitch the lavender flowers. Using six strands of lavender floss, stitch the long lavender flowers with open fishbone stitch. This is just like regular fishbone stitch, with a bit of extra space between each stitch. Start with a straight stitch at the top of the stem. Then make crisscrossing diagonal stitches down the length of the stem.

STEP 11: Add the accent flowers. Using six strands of salmon floss, create the accent flowers with three straight stitches that share an endpoint at the center of each flower.

STEP 12: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish the hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed.

Take some of the simple flowers from this design and use them to add a darling flower arrangement to a special garment or home décor item. 94

STITCH DIARY

—LOUISA MAY ALCOTT

What aspects of your life or relationships need a little watering and attention?

Think about the areas of your life that need tending and care right now, and ask yourself: What can I do now to help those areas bloom?

“Life and love are very precious when both are in full bloom.”

I think this sentiment serves as a gentle reminder to put good work and care into our relationships, endeavors, and ourselves to see them bloom. And just like when we do the hard work of planning, tilling, weeding, and faithfully watering a garden, we don’t always see the results right away. I think about my best friendships, some of which began when I was a young girl. Those relationships take work and effort to maintain and grow through different seasons, but the beauty of friendship makes them so worth the energy.

• Backstitch • Satin stitch • French knot • Straight stitch • Pistil stitch SUPPLIES • 7" embroidery hoop • 11" x 11" piece of your chosen fabric • 1 skein each of very light green, army green, sage green, peach, salmon, coral red, fuchsia, gold, yellow, orange, brown, and white floss • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 163) Fresh Florals

Stitching flowers is a great way to experiment with and showcase a color palette. For this design, inspired by fresh-cut farm flowers, I started with a monochromatic peach color scheme. Then I added some analogous (red and pink) and complementary (green) colors. Finally, I chose to accent the colors with warm yellow and bright white. I picked a neutral background so the vibrant colors would shine. I use this warm color scheme often in my embroidery projects and don’t think I’ll ever grow out of it! Feel free to use the colors I suggest here, or truly make it your own by exploring one or more of the basic color schemes described on page 155. ■ 96

Fresh Florals 99

STEP 1: Prepare your materials. Following the tutorials in the “Getting Started” section, transfer the pattern, set your hoop, and separate your floss. Thread your needle with six strands of army green floss.

STEP 2: Stitch the dark green leaves. Satin stitch the dark green leaves. Start with one stitch down the center of the leaf from tip to base, then fill in each side with parallel stitches. To avoid crowding, end some of the stitches before the base of the leaf. Use the same floss and a single straight stitch for each berry stem. Use six strands of very light green floss to make a single straight stitch down the center of each dark green leaf.

STEP 3: Stitch the sage green leaves. Use six strands of sage green floss to fill in the remaining leaves with satin stitch in the same manner as the dark green leaves.

2 3 1

STEP4 4: Outline the flower stems. Use six strands of sage green floss to outline the flower stems. For the curved stems, use 1/4" backstitches. For the straight stems, use one long straight stitch. Use straight stitches to outline the leaves of the tulips and the twigs of the baby’s-breath branch.

STEP 5: Stitch the anemones. Satin stitch the anemones, using six strands of coral red floss for the large anemone and six strands of peach for the small anemone. Before filling in the flowers, stitch several spokes around the center to guide your stitches. When you fill in the flowers, some of your stitches will overlap at the edges.

STEP 6: Stitch the anemone centers. Use six strands of brown floss to fill in the center circles of the anemones with satin stitch. Then, add a ring of French knots around each center circle for texture. For the French knots, use six strands of brown floss and wrap the floss around your needle twice.

Fresh Florals 100

STEP7 7: Stitch the zinnias. Use six strands of salmon floss to satin stitch the petals of the two zinnia flowers. Start each stitch at the edge of a petal and end at the center of the flower. Angle and overlap your stitches as needed.

STEP 8: Stitch the cosmos. Using the same technique as in step 7, satin stitch the petals of the cosmos flower with six strands of fuchsia floss.

101

STEP 9: Fill in the flower centers. Using six strands of gold floss, fill in the centers of the zinnias and cosmos with compact French knots. Start with a ring of French knots around the edge, then fill in the center. Wrap the floss around your needle two times for each knot.

10 121411 1513

Fresh Florals

102

STEP 13: Stitch the orange berries. Using six strands of orange floss, fill in the six oval-shaped berries with satin stitch. Angle the outer stitches to fit the shape of the berries.

STEP 10: Stitch the tulip pistils. Using six strands of gold floss, make four pistil stitches for the tulip pistils. Start each stitch at the center of the tulip. Wrap the floss around the needle one to two times as if you were making a French knot. Then, finish the stitch by pushing the needle through the fabric at the end of the pistil.

STEP 14: Stitch the craspedia flowers. Using six strands of yellow floss, fill in the craspedia flowers with compact French knots. Start with a ring of

STEP 11: Stitch the tulips. Satin stitch the tulip petals using six strands of white floss. Follow the same technique you used to stitch the leaves in steps 2 and 3.

STEP 12: Add the flower buds. Using six strands of fuchsia floss, make French knots for the flower buds at the bottom right of the design. Wrap the floss around your needle three times for each knot.

16 branch. Then, add one French knot to the end of each small green twig. Finally, add French knots as accents wherever a dot is shown on the pattern.

STEP 16: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish each hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed. French knots around the edge of each flower, then fill in the center. Wrap the floss around your needle two times for each knot.

STEP 15: Stitch the baby’s breath and accents. Using six strands of white floss, add three French knots to the end of each twig in the baby’s-breath 103

104

STITCH DIARY

“When you take a flower in your hand and really look at it, it's your world for the moment.”

105

—GEORGIA O'KEEFFE Zinnias and cosmos (featured in this design) are easy-to-grow annuals that make a bright and colorful garden. As an added bonus, these flowers are great for cutting and making bouquets to grace your coffee table or to be presented to loved ones for special events. These two flowers remind me of my grandparents’ farm in Iowa in the peaceful summertime. Do certain flowers evoke beloved memories for you? Write about them here.

■ Cupp

Blush pink Queen Anne’s Lace, prickly pink thistle, wild blueberries, and vibrant lavender sprigs make up this dreamy little wildflower bouquet nestled in a teacup. This bouquet also uses two fantastic and handy techniques for adding dimension to embroidery. The first is a decorative element called tassel stitch, which is a great way to create whimsical flowers or other small accents that stand out against your background. The second technique is layering two similar hues of floss to produce a three-dimensional look, as seen on the leaves and lavender sprigs.

flowers STITCHES • Split backstitch • Tassel stitch • Satin stitch • Stem stitch • Straight stitch • French knot • Backstitch • Lazy daisy stitch SUPPLIES • 6" embroidery hoop • 10" x 10" piece of your chosen fabric • 1 skein each of white, medium green, army green, sage green, teal, blush pink, pink, lavender, purple, and brown floss • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 164) 106

Adding a light color on top of a dark one creates a highlight effect, which is a simple way to add depth to any of your embroidery pieces. If you find yourself drawn to the look of the tassel stitch, I encourage you to delve into the art of stumpwork, or raised three-dimensional embroidery, to learn about the dozens of beautiful stitches and techniques that can bring your embroidery to life. In the meantime, pour yourself a cuppa tea and settle in to enjoy stitching this delicate bouquet. a Wild

107

STEP 2: Outline the teacup and thistle stems. Using the white floss, outline the cup, base, and handle of the teacup with split backstitch. Using six strands of army green floss, stitch the three thistle flower stems with stem stitch. Start at the rim of the teacup and end just at the base of each thistle top.

STEP 3: Fill in the thistle leaves. Using six strands of army green floss, satin stitch the three thistle leaves. Using three strands of medium green floss, add three straight stitches to each leaf as accents, one down the center, and one to either side.

2 3 1

Cupp a Wild flowers 109

STEP 7: Wrap the base of the tassel. Using six strands of army green floss, tightly secure the base of the thistle flower tassel by satin stitching over it. Use one hand to gently hold the tassel in position as you work. You’ll need anywhere from five to ten stitches to completely cover the base of the tassel with no pink showing through. 110

STEP 6: Attach the thistle. Place your tassel bundle with the knot at the end of a thistle stem. To attach it, thread your needle with one of the ties from the knot and bring it through to the back of the fabric. Repeat with the other tie. Tie the two pieces of floss together at the back of the fabric with one knot and trim the ends to 1/4". Your tassel should be firmly attached to your fabric now.

67 4 5 Cupp a Wild flowers

STEP 5: Tie the tassel. Cut six strands of pink floss to 7" long. Thread the floss through the loops of the tassel bundle and tie it firmly with one knot. Do not trim the tails.

STEP 4: Start forming a tassel. We’ll make tassels for the thistle flowers. Start by wrapping six strands the pink floss around two of your fingers twelve times to form a bundle. The ends of the floss can stay loose. Carefully remove the bundle from your fingers, keeping the loops in place.

STEP 9: Outline the Queen Anne’s lace stem. Using three strands of army green floss, outline the stem of the Queen Anne’s lace with straight stitches.

STEP 11: Stitch the accent leaves. Using three strands of army green floss, outline the stems of the accent leaves with straight stitches. Then, using six strands of medium green floss, fill in each leaf with satin stitch. 111

STEP9 8: Trim the tassel. Now for the best part! Using sharp embroidery scissors, trim the tassel to 3/4" long. Use your needle to fluff the floss, making the flower look full. Trim any uneven pieces as needed. Repeat steps 4 through 8 for the two remaining thistles. As you continue to work on the next flowers, your thistles will naturally get softer and more flexible.

10118

STEP 10: Fill the Queen Anne’s lace. Using six strands of blush-pink floss, fill the Queen Anne’s lace flower with tightly spaced French knots. To vary the size of your knots, alternate between wrapping the floss around your needle once and twice when making them. Add three small French knots at the end of each branch at the base of the flower.

STEP 13: Stitch the wild berry sprigs. Using three strands of brown floss, outline the wild berry branches with backstitch and straight stitches like you did for the ferns in step 12. Using six strands of teal floss, add a French knot at the end of each branch to form berries, wrapping the floss around your needle once for each knot.

STEP 12: Outline the ferns. Using six strands of sage green floss, outline the ferns with backstitch. Backstitch a line down the center of each fern, then use straight stitches to add the leaflets up and down the length of the fern at the points where the backstitches meet.

STEP 14: Start stitching the lavender. Using six strands of medium green floss, backstitch down the center of each lavender sprig. Using six strands of purple floss, make lazy daisy stitches over the flower stem in groups of three. End with only one lazy daisy stitch at the top of the stem.

141213 Cupp a Wild flowers

112

STEP 15: Finish stitching the lavender. Using six strands of lavender floss, make lazy daisy stitches on top of the purple stitches from step 14. Make one stitch in the center of each group of three purple stitches. At the top of each stem, make two short stitches on either side of the top purple stitch. Adding the lighter floss will highlight the lavender florets.

STEP 16: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish the hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed.

1615

113

114

STITCH DIARY

“Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees.” —JOHN MUIR I’ve always wanted to plant a little herb and wildflower garden to harvest fresh mint, chamomile, lavender, or echinacea. You can pick these herbs and flowers, dry them out, and infuse water with them. A wildflower-infused hot or iced tea sounds so lovely to me, and what a great way to slow down and connect with nature. What are some ways you enjoy connecting with nature?

115

A dozen tiny and charming potted plants neatly lined up on shelves—a plant lover’s dream! This project is perfect for experimenting with your library of embroidery stitches. You’ll notice how mixing in a few different stitches adds texture and detail that make a big impact. As you work, you may be inspired to improvise and use some of your favorite stitches instead of the ones I’ve suggested. Another skill you’ll use throughout this design is working in layers or levels as you stitch. When you embroider a motif with multiple colors—a potted plant, for example—you want to pay attention to the order you stitch in. Start with the parts farthest back in the design and work your way forward. In this design, you’ll generally stitch the plant first, then the pot, then the shelf. Doing this keeps your stitches neat and prevents you from disrupting layers that have already been stitched.

■ •• Satin stitch • Backstitch • Split stitch • Split backstitch • Chain stitch SUPPLIES • 7" embroidery hoop • 11" x 11" piece of your chosen fabric • 1 skein each of ivory, peach, yellow, gold, terracotta, light brown, brown, light gray, dark gray, very light green, medium green, army green, sage green, and jade green floss • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 165) Greener by the Dozen 116

117

2 3 1

Greener by the Dozen 119

STEP 2: Stitch the top left plant. We’ll start with the top left plant and work our way over and down through the rows. Feel free to skip around and work on any plant you’d like in any order, but do pay attention to the order of the layers for each plant. For all steps, you’ll use six strands of floss unless noted. Using the jade green floss, stitch the leaves of the top left plant. For each leaf, make two parallel stitches, then add one angled stitch above them, ending the stitch between the first two. Using ivory floss, satin stitch the pot from top to bottom with horizontal stitches.

STEP 3: Stitch the succulent in the mug. Using very light green floss, backstitch the stems of the succulent. Add very short stitches for the leaves at the points where the backstitches meet. Using peach floss, satin stitch the body of the mug. Then, add a few split stitches for the curved mug handle.

Greener by the Dozen 120

STEP 5: Stitch the little succulent. Using sage green floss, satin stitch each petal of the succulent, using vertical stitches. Fill the container with horizontal satin stitches, using ivory floss on the top half and peach floss on the bottom half.

STEP 6: Stitch the three cacti. Move to the second shelf. Using army green floss, make vertical satin stitches to fill each cactus. Using two strands of ivory floss, add straight stitches to each cactus as accents. Using six strands of gold floss, begin filling in the basket with horizontal satin stitches. After about five stitches, add a row of chain stitch to create the basket weave (see page 151 to learn the chain stitch). Add several more satin stitches, then another row of chain stitch, and end with satin stitch at the base.

STEP4 4: Stitch the cactus. Using army green floss, split backstitch the outline of the cactus, then continue adding rows to fill in the center. Using two strands of ivory floss, add tiny straight stitches for spines. Using six strands of terracotta floss, satin stitch the bowl from top to bottom with horizontal stitches, tapering the length of the stitches following the pattern.

STEP 9: Stitch the cactus. Using medium green floss, fill the heart-shaped cactus with vertical satin stitches. Using two strands of ivory floss, add straight stitches on top of the cactus to represent spines. Using brown floss, fill in the container by alternating several horizontal satin stitches with rows of split stitch to create the texture.

121

STEP7 7: Stitch the fern. Using terracotta floss, stitch the pot. First, fill the body of the pot with slightly angled vertical satin stitches. Use horizontal stitches for the top and bottom of the pot, overlapping the vertical stitches slightly. Using medium green floss, backstitch the stems of each fern. Add short straight stitches for the leaves where the backstitches meet. You’ll stitch right on top of the pot for the fern that overlaps it.

STEP 8: Stitch the snake plant. Using jade green floss, make two to three satin stitches for each leaf, starting at the point of the leaf and ending at the base. Using two strands of ivory floss, add a straight stitch to each leaf for an accent. Using light gray floss, fill the vase with horizontal satin stitches. Using dark gray floss, add horizontal stripes to the vase, right over the top of the light gray.

101211 Greener by the Dozen

STEP 11: Stitch the succulents. Using very light green floss, fill each leaf of the potted succulent with vertical satin stitches. Using dark gray floss, fill the body of the mug with horizontal satin stitches. Then, split stitch the mug handle. Using medium green floss, outline the stem of the tall succulent with backstitch. Add short straight stitches where the backstitches meet for the leaves.

122

STEP 12: Stitch the prickly pear cactus. Using medium green floss, fill the paddles of the cactus with vertical satin stitches. Angle and overlap the stitches as needed to fit the narrow end of each paddle. Using two strands of ivory floss, add straight stitches on top of the paddles for spines. Using yellow floss, fill the pot with horizontal satin stitches. Add a diamond on top of the pot by making four straight stitches on top of the satin stitches.

STEP 10: Stitch the monstera. Move to the third shelf. Using four strands of jade green floss, fill the two monstera leaves. Start with a straight stitch down the center of each leaf, then fill in the sides with angled, parallel satin stitches. Add a long straight stitch for each stem. Use a few parallel satin stitches for the two narrow leaves. Using six strands of ivory floss, fill the basket with satin stitch. Using brown floss, add a grid of straight stitches on top of the satin stitches. Using ivory floss, split backstitch the basket handles.

123

STEP 15: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish the hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed.

STEP13 13: Stitch the succulent. Using sage green floss, fill the succulent leaves with vertical satin stitches. Using terracotta floss, stitch the pot. First, fill the body of the pot with slightly angled vertical satin stitches. Then use horizontal stitches for the top and bottom of the pot, overlapping the vertical stitches slightly.

STEP 14: Stitch the shelves. Using light brown floss, fill the shelves with long horizontal satin stitches. Make three stitches the entire length of each shelf, then add two shorter stitches centered below them. If you plan to take your embroidery out of the hoop, use short backstitches or long and short (brick) stitch instead so your stitches will remain tight and secure once removed.

14 15

124

Would you choose books? Art? Your dream houseplants? List or doodle those things that you’d love to fill your living space with here.

—BRENÉ BROWN

125

This design gives you twelve miniature houseplants to brighten up your living space, with zero maintenance required (no water, no sun!). Over time, the interior of my house has changed to match current trends. But I’m beginning to realize that I want to fill the spaces in my home with meaningful pieces of art, objects, and books (and plants, of course!) that hold a special place in my heart and bring me joy. Close your eyes and imagine you have a wall with three empty shelves, just like the ones in this pattern. What would you use to fill them?

STITCH DIARY

“Authenticity is the daily practice of letting go of who we think we’re supposed to be and embracing who we are.”

■ Slow Living STITCHES • Stem stitch • Satin stitch • French knot • Fishbone stitch • Backstitch • Straight stitch • Split backstitch SUPPLIES • 4" embroidery hoop • 8" x 8" piece of your chosen fabric • 1 skein each of light tan, ivory, brown, black, very light green, light green, medium green, army green, blue green, and yellow floss • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 166) 126

Perhaps you’ve seen beautiful embroidered animal portraits, landscapes, or florals that look so completely realistic you wondered how the artist could create such detail with only needle and thread. Thread painting is your answer, and while it can be incredibly rewarding and effective, it is also challenging. Traditionally, thread-painted embroidery uses single strands of straight or long and short stitches, building layer upon layer to create the desired color and shape effects. With this project, I want to teach you a relaxing and enjoyable way to thread-paint using six strands of floss at a time, so you can achieve the same realistic effect with a design perfectly suited for a beginner. With thread painting, you want to think like a painter and imagine each stitch is a single brushstroke. Pay attention to the direction and angle of your stitches. A general rule of thumb for working with animal fur is to use the animal’s nose as the point from which all of the fur radiates. Usually, you’ll want to choose three to four hues of the same color to blend to create realistic flower petals or animal fur. But for this project, we’ll use just two shades of brown for the sloth’s body. As you grow in your confidence as a stitcher, you can apply the same technique with fewer strands of floss and more colors to create your own realistic embroidered works of art. I hope this sweet, sleepy sloth serves as a reminder to you to slow down, take your time, and enjoy the moment.

127

STEP 2: Stitch the tree branch. Using six strands of brown floss, stem stitch the tree branch, making your stitches about 1/2" long to give the branch rough texture. Add straight stitches for the leaf stems.

STEP 4: Fill the sloth’s body. Using six strands of light tan floss, outline the sloth’s body with split backstitch. Continue adding rows of split backstitch, following the contours of the outline to fill the center. The direction of your stitches is important, since this is what creates the shape of the body and the look of the fur. Take time and care to imagine the flow of the sloth’s fur.

231 4 Slow Living

STEP 3: Fill in the branch leaves. Using four strands of light green floss, fill the branch leaves with vertical satin stitches. Start with one stitch down the center of each leaf, meeting the brown stem. Then, fill the sides one at a time, angling the stitches to meet at or near the stem.

129

STEP 8: Stitch the ivory face patches. Using six strands of ivory floss, fill the remaining area of the face with split backstitch. Remember to work out from the nose.

STEP 7: Fill the brown face patches. Using six strands of brown floss, stitch the brown areas of the sloth’s face with split backstitch. Start at the nose, working out and down to follow the natural flow of the fur. The brown stitches should blend into the tan stitches where the head meets the body.

5 876

Slow Living 130

STEP 6: Stitch the sloth’s tummy. Using six strands of ivory floss, fill in the tummy with split backstitch. Start at the body and work out toward the legs.

STEP 5: Add dimension to the body. Using three strands of brown floss, add short straight stitches throughout the sloth’s both to create shadow. Make your stitches in the same direction as the tan fur.

STEP12 9: Add the eye, nose, and mouth. Using three strands of black floss, make two to three tiny straight stitches to form a closed eye on the brown patch. Then, make a couple of tiny straight stitches in a gently curved line to represent the mouth. Using six strands of brown floss, make one small straight stitch for the nose.

STEP 11: Stitch the upper and lower leaves. Using six strands of very light green floss, backstitch the stems of the upper and lower bunches of leaves. Fill the leaves with fishbone stitch. Use six strands of medium green floss for some of the leaves, and six strands of light green floss for the others.

10119

STEP 10: Stitch the claws. Using two strands of ivory floss, make two straight stitches at the end of each leg for claws. Start each stitch on the tan fur and end it on your background fabric on the other side of the branch. Your thread-painted sloth is finished!

STEP 12: Stitch the palm fronds. Using six strands of army green floss, stem stitch the stems of each palm frond. Then add two parallel straight stitches for each leaflet, angling them to make a sharp point. 131

STEP 16: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish the hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed.

STEP 14: Add the leaf accents. Using two strands of very light green floss, make straight stitches in the middle of each philodendron leaflet. Add a few of these accent lines to the palm fronds too.

141315

STEP 15: Add the yellow accents. Using six strands of yellow floss, add a French knot anywhere there is a dot on the pattern (or wherever you’d like!) to represent flowers, fireflies, or simply a little twinkling light.

132

Slow Living STEP 13: Fill in the philodendron leaves. Using six strands of blue green floss, satin stitch the large philodendron leaves. Make a line down the center of each leaf with backstitch or stem stitch. Then, starting at the tip of each leaf, fill in the leaflets, angling your satin stitches in toward the center stem.

16 133

134

135

What are some ways you can slow down and prioritize your rest and relaxation this week?

“For fast-acting relief, try slowing down.” —LILY TOMLIN We could all take to heart some life lessons from these peaceful, jungle-abiding herbivores. They spend their days hanging out, sleeping or resting, eating, and making purposeful movements. Sloths appear to be always content, with smiles on their faces and all. Did you know a group of sloths is called a bed? Even that is too cute! We humans love to keep busy and work hard, but rest isn’t a luxury. It’s an essential part of self-care, and it’s necessary for us to be our best selves. I know I don’t always make time for slow and unplugged moments—do you?

STITCH DIARY

For the final design in this book, I wanted to give you a lengthy project that would keep you happily stitching for hours! I drew some of my favorite houseplants an angel wing begonia, a string-of-pearls trailing a succulent, a fiddle leaf fig tree, and others all arranged near a window, soaking up the sunlight.

All of the skills taught throughout this book culminate with this final project, plus one more special element: outlining. The always useful, dependable, and versatile backstitch, which was introduced in the very first project, creates the black outline. This simple outline produces a striking effect that you actually can apply to any of the embroidery projects in this book.

While this design features a bold outline, which is very popular in contemporary embroidery, it still works well without the outline. Omitting the black outline will create a softer finished piece if that is what you prefer.

This piece is easy to work on, put down, and come back to later, so take your time and enjoy! teal, rose red, light brown, brown, black

H appy Houseplants

yellow,

(optional), and ivory cotton floss • 1 skein each of ivory and black size 5 perle floss (or substitute two strands of cotton floss) • Embroidery scissors • Size 5 needle • Transfer materials (page 18) • Finishing materials (page 26) • Pattern (page 167) 136

gold, coral

■ STITCHES • Straight stitch • Satin stitch • Chain stitch • Split backstitch • French knot • Backstitch • Tassel stitch SUPPLIES • 6" embroidery hoop • 10" x 10" piece of your chosen fabric • 1 skein each of very light green, light green, medium green, dark green, forest green, army green,

dark

137

STEP 2: Outline the walls, flooring, and window. Use long straight stitches to outline the background elements of the room, skipping the windowsill. I rely on my sight more than the transfer lines to be sure the lines are straight. The inner embroidery hoop will prevent you from stitching all the way to the edge of the outer hoop, so just stop where your needle meets the inner hoop.

STEP 3: Fill and outline the windowsill. Using six strands of light brown floss, fill the windowsill with horizontal satin stitches. Then, outline this space with black floss.

139

2 3 1 H appy Houseplants

4675 H appy Houseplants

140

STEP 5: Stitch the mug. Using six strands of coral red floss, fill the coffee mug with horizontal satin stitches. Then use very short backstitches to stitch the mug handle. Outline the mug and begonia plant in black.

STEP 4: Stitch the begonia plant. Using six strands of dark green floss, fill the leaves with vertical satin stitches. Add straight stitches for the stems. Using one strand of ivory perle floss (or two strands of cotton floss), make little dots on the leaves with short straight stitches. If you pull the ivory floss too tight, the stitches won’t show, so keep the tension loose.

STEP 7: Stitch the fiddle leaf fig tree. Using six strands of dark brown floss, make one long stitch for the tree trunk. Using six strands of medium green floss for half the leaves and six strands of forest green for the other, fill the leaves with satin stitch. Start with a stitch down the center of each leaf, then make the satin stitches radiating out from that line. Use two strands of very light green floss to add leaf vein accents with straight stitches. Outline the leaves and trunk in black.

STEP 6: Stitch the prickly cactus. Using six strands of army green floss, fill the cactus with split backstitches. Add a few straight stitches with one strand of ivory perle floss to represent spines. Using six strands of rose gold floss, fill in the basket with horizontal satin stitches. Outline the basket and the cactus with black floss.

STEP 8: Stitch the pot and stand. Using six strands of ivory floss, fill the pot with horizontal satin stitches. Using six strands of light brown floss, fill the wooden plant stand with satin stitches. Notice that some of the stitches are horizontal and some are vertical. Outline the pot and stand with black floss.

141

108911

STEP 9: Stitch the string-of-pearls basket. Using six strands of rose gold floss, fill the basket with horizontal satin stitches. Using one strand of ivory perle floss (or two strands of cotton floss), make long straight stitches for the macramé plant hanger, stitching right on top of the rose gold. You’ll make the tassel for the bottom of the basket in step 14.

STEP 10: Stitch the string-of-pearls plant. Using six strands of light green floss, fill in the string-of-pearls plant with compact French knots. Loop the floss around your needle one time for each knot to keep them small. Outline the plant and the basket in black floss.

STEP 11: Stitch the snake plant basket. Using six strands of teal floss, fill the hanging basket with horizontal satin stitches. Use one strand of ivory perle floss to add the macramé hanger with straight stitches. Using six strands of ivory cotton floss, add four French knots to the hanger where marked on the pattern. Using six strands of forest green floss, fill the snake plant leaves with vertical satin stitches. Using two strands of very light green floss, stitch horizontal accent lines on top of each leaf. Outline the plant and the basket with black floss.

141312 H appy Houseplants

STEP 13: Stitch the rug. Using six strands of ivory floss, begin filling the rug with horizontal satin stitches. Add rows of chain stitch where the two lines are drawn on the pattern. Stitch as close as you can to the edge of the hoop, ending your stitches where your needle meets the inner hoop. Outline the two straight edges of the rug with black floss.

STEP 14: Make the tassels. Set your hoop aside and make the six tassels for the hanging plant baskets and the rug. Wrap the ivory cotton floss five times around two fingers. Remove the loops from your fingers and tie them in place with a 6” length of floss. Repeat until you have six tied floss bundles.

STEP 12: Stitch the pothos plant. Using six strands of yellow floss, fill the hanging basket with horizontal satin stitches. Use one strand of ivory perle floss to add the macramé hanger with straight stitches. Using six strands of ivory cotton floss, add three French knots to the hanger. Using six strands of medium green floss, backstitch the trailing vines of the plant, then satin stitch the leaves. Using one strand of ivory perle floss, add a straight stitch down the center of each leaf. Finally, outline the leaves, vine, and basket with black floss.

STEP 15: Attach the tassels. Use the ties to attach a tassel to the bottom of each hanging basket and three along the right side of the rug. Bring the ties to the back of the fabric and knot them. Using six strands of ivory floss, satin 142

143

1615 stitch over the end of each tassel until it is secure. Trim your tassels to about 1/2" long. See the Cuppa Wildflowers project on page 106 for more detailed instructions and photos for creating tassels. If you don’t want to make tassels, simply stitch them instead by making several straight stitches that share an endpoint for each one.

STEP 16: Finish. Follow the steps on page 27 to finish the hoop. Remove any transfer pen marks as needed.

144

STITCH DIARY

“Adopt the pace of nature: her secret is patience.”

—RALPH WALDO EMERSON I featured the fiddle leaf fig plant in this design because of its unique beautiful green and sculptural leaves. If you have one of these plants in your home, you know how fickle they are! A tip: make sure you occasionally dust the leaves and mist them— these plants love humidity. Taking care of plants may not come naturally to you at first, but with practice, experience, effort, and guidance, you can have happy houseplants. I think embroidery is similar in that way because it may not come easy to you at first, but if you invest your time and effort, practice plenty, and look for help along the way, you can become confident in your skills as a stitcher. Take a moment to think and write about your embroidery journey.

What have been your highs and lows?

145

What areas do you want to improve on, and what new stitches or skills would you like to learn next?

146

A pp endix This is your go-to reference for detailed instructions and diagrams about making the stitches in this book. Use the stitch library whenever you need a little guidance to remind yourself how to make a specific stitch. You'll also find the patterns for each project here and a floss color index with the DMC floss color numbers I used. 147

Straight Stitch (Running Stitch). This is a simple single stitch. Bring your needle through the fabric from back to front where you want the stitch to start. Then, bring your needle through the fabric from front to back where you want the stitch to end. These stitches can be placed in any direction, placed in groups, or used alone. Seed Stitch. This is a fill stitch made of a group of straight stitches. The stitches are even in length but placed randomly. They can be spread out, packed in closely, and even overlapping. You can use one or more floss colors.

Embroidery Stitch Library

12 34 1 2 12 34

Appendix 148

Backstitch. This stitch is used for outlining. Make a straight stitch about 1/4" long. Bring the needle up through the fabric about 1/4" from the end of the first stitch. Stitch backward, pushing your needle through the hole at the end of the first stitch. Your stitches will be touching and sharing the same hole in the fabric.

Split Backstitch. This stitch is just like backstitch, but instead of ending in the same hole as the previous stitch, you’ll end in the middle of the first stitch, splitting the floss. Make a straight stitch about 1/4" long. Bring the needle up through the fabric about 1/4" from the end of the first stitch. Stitch backward, pushing your needle through the middle of the first stitch, splitting the floss strands in half. Because of the split, this stitch works best with either four or six strands of floss. Use this stitch for a textured outline.

Split Stitch. Split stitch can be used in place of split backstitch—it produces a similar look, but is a little more defined because of the movement of the needle and floss. Start with a straight stitch. For the second stitch, bring your needle up through the fabric in the middle of the first stitch, splitting the floss from underneath the fabric, and stitch forward. Stem Stitch. Stem stitch is useful for creating a line with no endpoints in it, like a flower stem. Start with a straight stitch, but don’t pull the thread all the way through the fabric. Instead, gently hold the thread to the side, creating an arch. Bring your needle up between the ends of the arch. Now pull the thread all the way through the fabric, pulling the arch flat. Make another straight stitch, holding the thread to the side to make a small arch. Bring your needle up between the ends of the arch, using the same hole as the end of the arch from the first stitch. Repeat.

149

31 42 43 2 1 3 2 4 13

Embroidery

1 432 2 4 31 2 4 31

Long and Short Stitch (Brick Stitch). Work in horizontal rows. For the first row, alternate 1/4" and 1/8" straight stitches. For the following rows, use 1/4" stitches. Because of the way you stitched the first row, the stitches in the subsequent rows will have alternating endpoints. This is a useful fill stitch. Stitch Library, continued Fishbone Stitch. This stitch is perfect for filling in leaves. Start with one straight stitch down the center of the leaf, from the tip to about three-quarters of the way to the base. Start the second stitch by bringing the needle out on the top left side of the first stitch at the edge of the leaf. Cross over the first stitch, ending just to the right of it in the middle of the leaf. Repeat on the opposite side of the leaf. Continue stitching to the base of the leaf, keeping your stitches parallel to one another on each side.

Open Fishbone Stitch. This is just like fishbone stitch, but you’ll leave a bit of space between your crisscrossing parallel stitches as your work your way along the leaf. You’ll enjoy using this stitch for flowers.

Appendix 150

Satin Stitch. Satin stitch allows you to fill a space with smooth, flat stitches. It’s especially useful for filling small shapes. Start the stitch on one side of the shape you’re filling and end it directly opposite on the other side of the shape. Repeat, making close, parallel stitches that fill the shape from one end to the other.

Lazy daisy stitches can be used the make petals or leaves. Start with a very tiny stitch, but do not pull the thread all the way through. Instead, let it form a loop on top of the fabric and gently hold it in place. Bring your needle up through the fabric where you want the top of the loop to be, and feed it through the loop. Pull the thread tight to bring the loop down against the fabric. Enter the fabric just above where the needle came out, capturing the top of the loop in the stitch.

1 3421 2 1 2 3

151

Chain Stitch. Start with a very short straight stitch, but do not pull the thread all the way through. Instead, use your fingers to hold it in a loop above the fabric. Bring your needle up 1/4" away from the first stitch and feed it through the loop. Pull the thread tight to bring the loop down against the fabric, but not so tight that the loop loses its shape. Return your needle to the back of the fabric through the same hole it came out of (it will be in the center of the loop). Don’t pull it tight but form another loop. Bring your needle up 1/4" from the stitch, feed it through the loop, and pull the loop tight. Return the needle through the same hole it came out of, forming a new loop. Repeat. Lazy Daisy Stitch (Detached Chain Stitch).

1 2 12 1 324 1 2 French Knot. Bring your needle up through the fabric. With one hand, hold the floss perpendicular to the fabric, gripping it tightly a few inches above the fabric. With your other hand, place your needle against the back of the floss and hold it in place while you wrap the floss around it one or two times (the more wraps, the larger the finished knot). With the looped floss on it, return your needle through the fabric just next to the starting point. Use one hand to hold the floss out to the side, keeping it taut. As you pull the needle through the fabric, gradually and steadily release the floss. You’ll be left with a tidy knot on the surface of the fabric. Pistil Stitch. Pistil stitch is a variation of the French knot and is useful in making flower details. Follow the same steps for making a French knot, bringing your needle up through the fabric and wrapping the floss around it. Instead of ending the stitch right next to the starting point, make a longer stitch about 1/4" in length to finish. Tassel Stitch. This isn’t exactly a stitch, but rather a technique to create and add tassels to your embroidery. Start by wrapping floss around two of your fingers about fifteen times. Remove the bundle from your fingers. Cut a separate piece of floss about 6" long. Thread the floss through the loops of the bundle and tie it in a knot. Position the bundle where you’d like the tassel to be. Thread your needle with one of the ties from the knot and bring it to the back of the fabric. Repeat with the other tie. Tie the two strands of floss together at the back of the fabric and trim the ends. Secure the end of the tassel by satin stitching over it. Using your embroidery scissors, trim the tassel to length and use your needle to fluff the floss. Embroidery Stitch Library, continued Appendix 152

153

MediumBLANCGreen: 470 Army Green: 469 Sage Green: 523 Teal: Blush3809Pink: 3774 Pink: Lavender:758 554 Purple: 3041 Brown: 632 Greener by the Dozen Ivory: VeryDarkLightBrown:LightTerracotta:Gold:Yellow:Peach:ECRU3533820783301Brown:435632Gray:648Gray:645LightGreen: 472 Medium Green: 470 Army Green: 469 Sage Green: 523 Jade Green: 367 Slow Living Light Tan: 437 Ivory: VeryBlack:Brown:ECRU632310LightGreen: 472 Light Green: 471 Medium Green: 470 Army Green: 469 Blue Green: 502 Yellow: 3820 Happy Houseplants Very Light Green: 472 Light Green: 471 Medium Green: 470 Dark Green: 520 Forest Green: 987 Army Green: 469 Teal: Ivory:Black:DarkLightCoralRoseYellow:38093820Gold:3859Red:351Brown:435Brown:898310ECRU 154

Floss Color Index If you’d like to use the same colors that I did for these projects, here are the DMC floss color numbers so you can look for them in your local craft store. While this guide is here for your reference, you should always feel free to substitute colors or develop your own color scheme for each project!

Appendix

Botanical Trio Ivory: ECRU Plants on Pink Light Green: 471 Forest Green: 987 Army Green: 469 Ivory: Terracotta:ECRU301 French Knot Flowers Yellow: Medium3820Green: 470 Sage Green: 523 White: BLANC Grow Light Green: 471 Army Green: 469 Salmon: 352 Yellow: 3820 Desert Night Ivory: ECRU Light Green: 471 Medium Green: 470 Pale Blue Green: 504 Jade Green: 367 Sage Green: 523 Forest Green: 987 Tiny Terrarium Light Green: 471 Bright Forest(Satin):GreenS417Green: 987 Seafoam Green: 564 Lavender (Satin): S211 Ivory: MetallicBrown:ECRU632Gold: G3852 Let Love Bloom White: MediumBLANCGreen: 470 Teal: Lavender:Salmon:3809352554 Fresh Florals Very Light Green: 472 Army Green: 469 Sage Green: 523 Peach: White:Brown:Orange:Yellow:Gold:Fuchsia:CoralSalmon:353352Red:35136077833820922632BLANC Cuppa Wildflowers White:

Monochromatic Colors A collection of tints, shades, and tones of one color Complementary Colors Two colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel Analogous Colors Three colors next to each other on the color wheel Triadic Colors Three colors equally spaced from one other on the color wheel 155

numbers I

Color Theory

There is both an art and a science behind choosing your floss and fabric colors to customize a design. The art of the process is simply noticing which colors draw you in and “look nice” together. You can also apply science to color selection with some basic color theory. Have fun choosing colors for the projects, or use the Floss Color Index on page 154 see the specific floss color chose.

Botanical Trio Pattern, instructions page 36 Appendix 156

Plants on Pink Pattern, instructions page 44 157

French Knot Flowers Pattern, instructions page 54 Appendix 158

Grow Pattern, instructions page 62 159

Desert Night Pattern, instructions page 70 Appendix 160

Tiny Terrarium Pattern, instructions page 80 161

Let Love Bloom Pattern, instructions page 88 Appendix 162

Fresh Florals Pattern, instructions page 96 163

Cuppa Wildflowers Pattern, instructions page 106 Appendix 164

Greener by the Dozen Pattern, instructions page 116 165

Slow Living Pattern, instructions page 126 Appendix 166

Happy Houseplants Pattern, instructions page 136 167

Business is personal at Better Day Books. We were founded on the belief that all people are creative and that making things by hand is inherently good for us. It’s important to us that you know how much we appreciate your support. The book you are holding in your hands was crafted with the artistic passion of the author and brought to life by a team of wildly enthusiastic creatives who believed it could inspire you. If it did, please drop us a line and let us know about it. Connect with us on Instagram, post a photo of your art, and let us know what other creative pursuits you are interested in learning about. It all matters to us. You’re kind of a big deal.

www.betterdaybooks.combetterdaybooks ™ ™ ™ ™

ISBN: 978-0-7643-6123-4 $22.99 9 780764 361234 52299 ™ ™ A Fresh & Fun Way to Learn Embroidery! Join the modern stitching revival with this contemporary guide to embroidery! From the first stitch to the last, author Celeste Johnston will guide you every step of the way. Inside you’ll find 12 fresh projects featuring beautiful plants, flowers, and botanicals. Each one includes step-by-step instructions, a quick reference guide to the colors and stitches, full-size patterns, and helpful tips. A detailed stitch library walks you through the process of creating each stitch. Enjoy the fulfilling, creative, and therapeutic process of embroidery with these modern, inviting, and uplifting designs! CELESTE JOHNSTON is the creative force behind the popular Lemon Made Shop, where she sells beautiful embroidery patterns and artwork. She resides in Austin, Texas. To learn more, please andwww.lemonmadeshop.comvisit@lemon_made_shop. Inside you’ll find: • 12 gorgeous embroidery projects that build your skills as you work through them • A botanical sampler to help you practice each stitch • Journal entries that enhance the relaxing benefits of stitching, with mindful prompts to complement each project • Easy-to-follow stitch diagrams that teach absolute beginners how to create each stitch • Expertly designed full-sized patterns for each project