There’s disinfectant that’s great for your skin? Caring for Male Skin

CARING FOR MALE SKIN

Whether you enjoy looking after yourself or know a man who could do with some self-care, read on to learn how to attain healthy skin for men!

Men are not immune to ageing or troublesome skin – acne, tired eyes, lines and wrinkles can be a source of particular bother for many. We know it’s on their minds too, with internet searches for ‘men’s skincare’ increasing by a whopping 350% in the past five years! Yet, sometimes, men can be hesitant to talk openly about their concerns and seek advice.

So, if you’re a man looking to up your skincare game or wanting to support someone close to you, where do you start? How is men’s skin different to women and what products should you be using? Beyond Beauty chats to Dr Benji Dhillon for his advice – an aesthetic practitioner based in

Beaconsfield who, as well as running a busy clinic and bringing up four kids, has his skincare routine nailed!

Find him on Instagram @drbenjidhillon

MEN WANT GREAT SKIN TOO

“Since lockdown, I’ve been seeing more and more men who are starting to think further about their skin health,” says Dr Dhillon, explaining, “A lot of people who were previously travelling for work are now based at home and have more time on their hands to research what might help their skin. They are also regularly viewing themselves on video calls and are noticing that they might look tired, so are thinking about how they can improve their overall appearance.” He says that the thing with men is that they don’t usually know what they want. While women will have done their research, chatted to their friends and have a good understanding of the options available, men tend to come in simply saying, “I just want to look a bit better.” Men (and some women) will also often say that they want a ‘quick fix’ and ‘don’t have time’ to look after their skin. For this, Dr Dhillon whips out one of his best analogies! He explains, “I’ll always say to anyone wanting to dodge skincare – you’ll go to the dentist for teeth whitening or veneers, but know that if you don’t brush your teeth at home you’ll never get the best results. Brushing your teeth is the same as looking after your skin at home – no matter what aesthetic treatment you have, the end result will never be as good if your skin quality is lacking!”

MALE SKIN IS DIFFERENT TO FEMALE SKIN

There are three key differences between male and female skin, according to Dr Dhillon. Number one is that men have a much thicker dermis, meaning higher concentrations of products will be needed to penetrate the skin, he explains. The second is that men tend to have stronger facial muscles, which can result in lines and wrinkles being a lot deeper than in a woman’s face. And finally, it’s usually hairier! Dr Dhillon notes that when it comes to ageing, this is a good thing, as facial hair can stabilise the skin, particularly around the mouth area, meaning men tend to not get barcode lines around the mouth like women do. The challenge many men face is what products are best to keep their skin looking refreshed and healthy!

THE PRODUCTS EVERY MAN SHOULD HAVE…

“The basics I tell men to start off with is what I like to call The Holy Trinity of Skincare,” says Dr Dhillon. This includes:

CLEANSER: used morning and night to wash the face and remove impurities for fresh, hydrated skin

VITAMIN C: a high concentration antioxidant serum for the daytime to aid skin’s natural regeneration process

SPF: apply in the morning and as necessary throughout the day to protect skin from sun damage, which can lead to pigmentation, lines and wrinkles

Dr Dhillon says, “It’s worth emphasising that cleanser can be used in the shower and other products will take less than a minute to slap on, so it’s not disrupting a man’s morning and evening routines too much. Of course, using SPF throughout the year can prevent the risk of developing skin cancer, but many men don’t realise how much it helps with ageing too, so talking about the health benefits of using it can really help.” When choosing a vitamin C product, Dr Dhillon advises selecting one with 20% concentration for maximum effect. For women, on the other hand, he would usually recommend 10-15%.

Dr Dhillon says his next step is to introduce:

MOISTURISERS: to reduce the chance of developing extreme dryness or oiliness throughout the day, which can lead to conditions such as acne

RETINOIDS: used at night to increase collagen production and to help the skin to ‘turn over’, keeping younger, healthier cells close to the surface

“Most men want a moisturiser as shaving can really dry skin out and make it feel quite tight,” explains Dr Dhillon, adding, “What men don’t want is a moisturiser that makes their skin shine, so borrowing one from a woman or friend can have an undesired effect! There are plenty of matte moisturisers available – my recommendation is the Obagi Hydrate Moisturiser or the skinbetter science Alto Defense Serum, which is great as it doubles up as a vitamin C and moisturiser! Adding a night-time retinoid can seem like a bit of an effort, as well as being confusing with so many types to choose from. Dr Dhillon advises, however, “Retinoids are the only skincare ingredient proven to treat wrinkles and using them will lead to better skin in the long term.” Retinoid is the umbrella term for a number of ingredients, all derived from vitamin A. The difference between them is their concentration. From weakest to strongest topical applications they are:

• Retinol esters (retinyl palmitate, retinyl propionate, retinyl acetate) • Retinol • Retinyl Retinoate

• Retinaldehyde • Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) • Retinoic acid (also known as retin-A or tretinoin)

We can talk a lot more about retinoids, their benefits and how they should be used safely, but that’s for a future issue! The important thing to bear in mind for now is that they can dry and peel the skin, so they’re not usually recommended for those with sensitive skin conditions such as eczema. Dr Dhillon advises, “I’d say if a man doesn’t want to risk peeling, they should start with a light retinol of between 0.5 to 1% every other night. Note that for women this would be more like 0.1-0.2% as their skin is generally thinner. This can eventually be increased to every night as the skin learns to tolerate it for best results.” He adds that anyone who uses a retinoid must also use SPF the following morning as they can make skin extremely sensitive to light and, subsequently, sun damage.

WOMEN CAN HELP TOO!

So how do men get on board with skincare? Dr Dhillon says, “I would recommend that everyone starts talking more about male skin health and how it’s not feminine to take care of skin. Skincare simply helps everyone look and feel healthier and more confident – little wins through enhancing skin quality can make men feel on top of their game and give them the boost needed to succeed in both their professional and personal life.” He also recommends women encourage men to trial a little bit of their own skincare so they can see how easy it is to use once in a routine! Then, Dr Dhillon advises women to invite the men in their life to their next appointment with their aesthetic practitioner, noting, “I’m sure your practitioner will be happy to talk through options and it may help for the man in your life to hear all the facts and figures from a professional.” And if they still need convincing? “Tell them about other men or male celebrities such as Ryan Reynolds, David Beckham and Michael B Jordan who take care of their skin – they don’t just look great by accident!” Dr Dhillon says, explaining that sharing his own skincare routine with male patients is the best way he gets them on board. He details his top tips for us here!

DR DHILLON'S SKINCARE ROUTINE

MORNING

♦ I start by cleansing my face with Obagi Nu-Derm Gentle Cleanser – this is great for eliminating oil, dirt and other debris on the skin

♦ After summer, I would follow this with Obagi-C Rx Clarifying Serum as I'll usually have a 'pigmentation hangover' – this product contains hydroquinone which is proven to reduce darks spots and melasma for a more even skin tone

♦ Next, I moisturise with Obagi Hydrate Moisturiser which provides hydration all day

♦ Finally, I add some sun protection – at the moment I’m using Teoxane Advanced Perfecting Shield SPF30 which is tinted so will cover up my pigmentation until it goes away

EVENING

♦ I cleanse with Obagi Gentle Cleanser again before alternating:

⇒ One-night Obagi Retinol 1.0 which fights against signs of ageing such as lines and wrinkles

⇒ The next night Obagi Professional-C Microdermabrasion Polish + Mask, which helps smooth the skin, or the SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Mask, which is great for the winter months when the central heating is drying out your skin