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CONTENTS NOVEMBER 2017

61 THE HOLIDAY STYLE GUIDE 2017

118 NEPAL

Fabulous folk on their favourite places, including Bella Hadid in Rome, Roman Coppola in Napa, Jasmine Hemsley in India and Simone Rocha in Tokyo

Leopards and tigers and elephants, oh my.

Stay low in the Himalayan country and you might be surprised by what you’ll find

98 MALIBU

128 OSLO

This eternally sunny Californian spot is known for its colony of Hollywood stars – but really it’s the beach town’s salty-haired surfers who still rule

Norway’s capital has come out of the cold to join the ranks of chisel-cheeked Scandi destinations being defined by their food, festivals and art

110 TANGIER

138 FASHION

North Africa’s bad-boy literary destination has some fresh inspiration circulating in its veins

The Ritz Paris is the gilded backdrop for this season’s most fantastical looks from Louis Vuitton

ZUMA BEACH IN MALIBU, PHOTOGRAPHED BY JACK JOHNS & OWEN TOZER

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 5

CONTENTS NOVEMBER 2017

32

39

146 10 EDITOR’S LETTER 12 CONTRIBUTORS 19 WORD OF MOUTH The places and people creating a stir around the world, from Marrakech to Bogotá

32 FANTASY LIFESTYLE Follow

50

the 21st-century nomads and hit the open road in a campervan

36 ON LOCATION Paint-box-bright Todos Santos in Mexico is a muse for interiors queen Kelly Wearstler

39 WHERE TO STAY Ski hotels under £150 Our pick of the best addresses to slope off for less this winter. Bed-hopping With actress Emily Mortimer. The weekender The Rectory Hotel, Wiltshire

155 FLAVOUR HUNTER The insider food scene Lisbon’s highlights with Chiltern Firehouse chef Nuno Mendes. World on a plate Avocado. Moveable feast Yotam Ottolenghi. Taste buzz Wily ways with waste food. The cookbook Claridge’s opens up

165 EVENTS Coming up Book a northern-Italian supper, and an evening with adventurer Sophie Radcliffe The lowdown Hamptons brunch at Pergola on the Roof

200 THE VIEW FROM HERE Belmond Andean Explorer, Peru

160

50 WAY OF LIFE A super-charged South African lodge where no rules apply, to take over as your own

ON THE COVER Malibu (see page 98) Photographed by Jack Johns

6 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

54 DETAILS Minimalist architect John Pawson reveals his love of the abstract in striking new photographs

97 TRENDWATCH It’s oh so quiet: the search for silence goes global

146 IN BRITAIN Uncover new treasure as a creative crew comes ashore in swashbuckling Penzance

PHOTOGRAPH: KAVI BHANSALI

54

EDITOR’S LETTER

I wasn’t always a travel editor. For a wild and woolly time I was what you might call ‘a stunt journalist’. In other words, making a fool of myself for laughs, being a hoebag but for less money, a trader of my own shame in the blind hope that someone reading page 67 of the Evening Standard would find my turn of phrase droll. Humiliating yourself for TV makes sense because there is your own reaction for the viewers to witness. But for the written page, it is a curiously isolating experience, which, when I suddenly remembered it all on my moped this morning, made me laugh out loud.

So consider this: I am at the Italian Grand Prix in Monza. I am dressed as a Pit Stop Girl.

My outfit consists of a Ferrari-red crop top and a Ferrari-red miniskirt, nothing but tininess and redness and tightness. In a minute I am to meet my 35 fellow Pit Stop Sisters, but I am just sneaking a fag around the back of the garage before my duty commences; this entails holding a flag in front of a Formula One car, its engines blasting, before the race actually starts.

Suddenly, from what looks like an aircraft carrier, comes a long, regimented line of extraordinary soldier-girls, a kind of robotic trail of dark-haired, long-limbed, Italian-racehorse females, lip-smackingly ripe of flesh and sharp of bone. ‘Avanti!’ shouts some unknown leader, and thus I am shimmied into their slipstream and dragged excruciatingly out onto the track to a screaming, wailing, cat-calling horde of several hundred thousand voices.

I would have attached the photo of this moment here, but I have incinerated it with the forcefield laserbeam of my inner eye.

It wasn’t supposed to be this way. The newspaper column title I had constructed for myself – a column I had been given in the biggest newspaper of the time, the dream! – was called ‘How Cool is That?’ I saw it as a satirical, post-modern and yet-not-to-be-shied-away-from humorous look at the cultural obsessions of the day. And yet my mission took a cruel turn. My first column saw me borrowing a chihuahua from Normandie Keith, one of the original London It Girls, and taking it to places where I would note down the jarring clash of perceived cliques of coolness. For example, the Dub Vendor Record Shack in Notting Hill and its wall-to-wall Lee Scratch Perry vinyl, a fog of weed so thick you could see the outline of Mordor in the smoke, and a Rastafarian phalanx of staff who stood behind the counter like a dysmorphic Last Supper in the Seventh Circle. I held aloft the small white fluffy mass that was Peaches/Peanut/Snowball and shouted into the gloom in the bravest voice I could muster, ‘This is the wonder that is Peaches/Peanut/Snowball!

How cool is that?’

But of all the places that column took me to, of all the dark, ritually absurd corners my soul found itself in, the jazz club in New York was the most agonising. At this famous club I am to accompany on the drums a set played by the renowned jazz-blues pianist Lonny/Lester/Leopold. The bit I’m remembering is not the part beforehand when the crowd started arriving: far from the tourist mongrels I had hoped for – who might just find it amusing – all were serious music aficionados, informed fans who were there to see their man. No, the funny bit is me looking back at myself during the performance: a shiny white girl in a French Connection wrap dress, furiously banging out nothing even close to a rhythm, knowing nothing, hearing nothing, and yet forging chaotically, blindly, deafly ahead.

There is that moment when it has all gone awry, when you know you are on your own, when the whole world goes utterly quiet on you, when it all goes utterly still.

If only I could see then what I can see now. That I could have opened my mouth at that point and gobbled up every air molecule in the room like an amazed goldfish in the slo-mo tank of life, and chuckled at its fun, silly, brilliant craziness.

This is the new issue of Condé Nast Traveller. For those who’ve taken 20 years to get the joke. And yet, how cool is that?

MELINDA STEVENS EDITOR MelindaLP

PPA COLUMNIST OF THE YEAR 2016 All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication.

Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices are low-season rates and restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for two without drinks 10 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS

Nuno Mendes Lisbon restaurants (p155)

Kelly Wearstler On location, Mexico (p36)

‘I got an amazing Mantecas blanket at my friend Catarina Portas’ shop in Lisbon. It’s made with wool from Serra da Estrela, the highest mountain in Portugal. I use it all the time, especially when we go camping as a family, and have since bought one for each of my children.’ Nuno is executive chef at Chiltern Firehouse, London

‘My favourite find is a table lamp by artist Jacques DuvalBrasseur. I had fallen in love with it when I first saw it in vintage magazines, but it was rare and expensive. Then I happened upon one at Clignancourt flea market in Paris – bringing it home was a treat.’

Kelly has designed the interiors for new American hotel brand Proper

John Pawson Photographer, Details (p54 )

Roman Coppola Napa (p66)

‘When we were staying in the Hamptons I purchased a custom-built Seven Odonata bike, which you are measured for like a suit. There was a time when I was cycling seriously enough that I competed in L’Etape du Tour, completing a stage of the Tour de France.’ John has spent more than 30 years creating rigorously simple architecture

‘In Maratea in the far south of Italy, I bought a sea-urchin cutter.

I took it out on a fishing trip with my family and this local guy dove for sea urchins and brought them back up onto the boat.

We opened them right there and ate them with a squeeze of fresh lemon.’ Film producer Roman wrote ‘The Darjeeling Limited’

Quincy Davis Maldives (p62)

Victoria Wright Stylist, The Holiday Style Guide 2017 (p61)

‘Last summer I visited Ibiza and it was so different from my usual surf trips as I spent lot of time just chilling out. There’s a lovely little outdoor store at the entrance to Experimental Beach Club where I spotted this bright-blue suede fringe bag – I knew I had to have it instantly.’ Pro-surfer Quincy grew up in Montauk, USA

‘I went to Mauritius a few years ago with close friends. In the town of Grand Baie I picked up a beautiful photo album made from woven sugarcane, reeds and bark. Filling it with pictures meant the trip stayed with me long after we returned.’ London-based Victoria has just launched her own millinery label, The Hatologist

12 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS: JEROME BONNET/MODDS/CAMERA PRESS; GARY CRABBE/IMAGEBRIEF; OLIVIA MALONE

WE ASK OUR WANDERERS ABOUT THE MOST TREASURED ITEM THEY’VE BROUGHT BACK FROM THEIR TRAVELS

EDITOR

MELINDA STEVENS PA TO THE EDITOR Sophie Jean-Louis Constantine SENIOR EDITOR Peter Browne DEPUTY EDITOR Issy von Simson MANAGING EDITOR Paula Maynard FEATURES EDITOR Fiona Kerr EDITOR-AT-LARGE Steve King EDITORIAL/FASHION ASSISTANT INTERN Lisa Walden FASHION AND BEAUTY DIRECTOR Fiona Joseph WATCH & JEWELLERY EDITOR Jessica Diamond MEN’S EDITOR David Annand RETAIL EDITOR/EVENTS DIRECTOR Kendra Leaver-Rylah ART DIRECTOR Pete Winterbottom DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR Paula Ellis SENIOR DESIGNER Nitish Mandalia PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITOR Matthew Buck PICTURE EDITOR Karin Mueller CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Rick Jordan DEPUTY CHIEF SUB-EDITOR Gráinne McBride SENIOR SUB-EDITOR Roxy Mirshahi ONLINE EDITOR Laura Fowler CONTENT EDITOR Tabitha Joyce ENGAGEMENT EDITOR Alice Riley-Smith DIGITAL PICTURE EDITOR Sharon Forrester

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jonathan Bastable, Horatio Clare, Ondine Cohane, Sophie Dahl, Sophie Dening, E Jane Dickson, Helen Fielding, Giles Foden, Michelle Jana Chan, Jeremy King, Emma Love, Lee Marshall, Kate Maxwell, Thomasina Miers, Reggie Nadelson, Harriet O’Brien, Timothy O’Grady, Tom Parker Bowles, Harry Pearson, Adriaane Pielou (Health & Spa), Antonia Quirke, Paul Richardson, Anthony Sattin, Nicholas Shakespeare, Sally Shalam, Stanley Stewart CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS James Bedford, Mirjam Bleeker, David Crookes, Squire Fox, Alice Gao, Philip Lee Harvey, Ken Kochey, David Loftus, Martin Morrell, Tom Parker, Michael Paul, Bill Phelps, Richard Phibbs, Oliver Pilcher, Kristian Schuller, Alistair Taylor-Young, Jenny Zarins DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL ADMINISTRATION AND RIGHTS Harriet Wilson EDITORIAL BUSINESS MANAGER Jessica McGowan SYNDICATION syndication@condenast.co.uk INTERNATIONAL COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR Nicky Eaton DEPUTY PUBLICITY DIRECTOR Harriet Robertson PUBLICITY MANAGER Richard Pickard

PUBLISHING DIRECTOR

SIMON LEADSFORD

PA TO THE PUBLISHING DIRECTOR/ADVERTISING COORDINATOR Molly McLachlan ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Juliette Ottley NEW BUSINESS DIRECTOR Kirsty Cocker ADVERTISEMENT DIRECTOR Lily Dalzell PROMOTIONS DIRECTOR Amy Hearn SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER Elizabeth Isaac ACCOUNT MANAGER Serena Chambers SALES EXECUTIVES Isabella Eckett, Natasha Callin DIGITAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Natalie Moss-Blundell PROMOTIONS ART DIRECTOR Pepita Fernandez SENIOR PRODUCER Grace Barnes PRODUCER Sophie Tye REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Karen Allgood (020 7152 3276) REGIONAL ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Heather Mitchell PARIS OFFICE Helena Kawalec (00 33 1 44 11 78 80) ITALIAN OFFICE Valentina Donini (00 39 02 805 1422) ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER US Shannon Tolar Tchkotoua (00 1 212 630 4913) ASIA OFFICE Karen Ko (00 852 2905 3228); Mimi Tsi (00 852 2905 3233) INDIAN OFFICE Marzban Patel (00 91 22 2287 5717) MIDDLE EASTERN OFFICE Ali Asgar Mir (00 97 143 913360) FLORIDA AND CARIBBEAN OFFICE Maria Coyne (00 1 305 756 1086) GREEK OFFICE DK Associates (00 30 694 251 9199) CLASSIFIED DIRECTOR Shelagh Crofts CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Emma Alessi CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVE Georgia Davies SENIOR CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVE Hattie White MARKETING DIRECTOR Jean Faulkner DEPUTY MARKETING AND RESEARCH DIRECTOR Gary Read ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, DIGITAL MARKETING Susie Brown SENIOR MARKETING EXECUTIVE Celeste Buckley RESEARCH MANAGER Tim Dickinson SENIOR DATA MANAGER Tim Westcott CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Richard Kingerlee NEWSTRADE CIRCULATION MANAGER Elliott Spaulding NEWSTRADE PROMOTIONS MANAGER Anna Pettinger SUBSCRIPTIONS DIRECTOR Patrick Foilleret ASSISTANT MARKETING AND PROMOTIONS MANAGER Claudia Long CREATIVE DESIGN MANAGER Anthea Denning PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Sarah Jenson COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION MANAGER Xenia Dilnot PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Dawn Crosby PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR Katie McGuinness COMMERCIAL AND PAPER PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Martin MacMillan COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR Jessica Beeby DIGITAL COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Malcolm Attwells DIGITAL CONTENT & STRATEGY DIRECTOR Dolly Jones DIGITAL OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Helen Placito Copyright © The Condé Nast Publications Ltd, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Printed in the UK by Wyndeham Roche. Colour origination by williamsleatag.

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Exuding European grandeur and urban glamour, discover a space that mirrors your sense of style. Visit Dubai this year and live the iconic Versace lifestyle in a cosmopolitan city that echoes the charms of tradition.

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WORD OF MOUTH ALL THAT’S NEW AND GROUND-BREAKING IN TRAVEL EDITED BY FIONA KERR

PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTIAN HARDER

hitting the brief ACROSS AMERICA A HANDFUL OF SHARP-EYED ARCHITECTURAL STUDIOS ARE BRINGING CLEVER HOTEL DESIGN TO SMALL, OFTEN UNEXPECTED PLACES A bedroom at The Dean in Rhode Island, created by ASH NYC

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 19

SOUND VIEW, LONG ISLAND

STUDIO TACK THE FIRM Three Ivy League architecture graduates meet one former Ace Hotels brand director and craft hotels with a lo-fi Brooklyn edge.

THE FORM Retro-cool motel makeovers, from equestrian-inspired Brentwood in New York’s Saratoga Springs (inky blue-black woodwork with brass accents) to newcomer Sound View on Long Island (wood-panelling and seaside rattan).

NEXT UP Their biggest project yet, The Grove in Portland, Oregon, opens at the end of this year: a nine-storey addition to a 100-year-old building at the gate of Chinatown.

PHOTOGRAPHS: METRIXELL ARJALAGUER; CHRISTIAN HARDER; READ MCKENDREE

BRENTWOOD, SARATOGA SPRINGS

20 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

WORD OF MOUTH

ASH NYC THE FIRM Part designers, part property developers, these New Yorkers are inspired by ‘the timeless wabi-sabi of Belgian masters such as Axel Vervoordt’, says founder Ari Heckman.

THE FORM Their first hotel, The Dean in Providence, Rhode Island, riffed on the town’s collegial heritage, with a lobby library and gym-class pommel-horses-turned-benches.

NEXT UP This November, The Siren Hotel revives Detroit’s grand Wurlitzer Building with a Fifties vibe in pink, oxblood and navy, plus a clutch of restaurants, a cocktail bar, barber and florist.

THE SIREN, DETROIT

HOTEL FIGUEROA, LOS ANGELES

STUDIO COLLECTIVE THE FIRM This trio have created buzzed-about restaurants and bars for big-name hotels for years. Now they’re bringing their easy SoCal style to a handful of West Coast properties THE FORM Aloha throwback at The Surfjack in Hawaii; Seventies surf chic at The Kimpton Goodland near Santa Barbara.

NEXT UP The revamped Hotel Figueroa in Downtown Los Angeles is about to open with fiddle-leaf-fig-tree-print wallpaper and works from local female artists, a nod to the city’s pioneering women.

THE SURFJACK, HONOLULU

THE KIMPTON GOODLAND, SANTA BARBARA

WORD OF MOUTH

ALL ABOUT YVES

For years, Marrakech has been a sanctuary for the French, where North African sun and a radical change of scene lie just three hours from Paris. Such was the case for Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé when they first arrived in the 1960s. ‘Marrakech was an exceptional love at first sight,’ said Bergé, the couture designer’s business and life partner, before he passed away last month. ‘The city deeply influenced Saint Laurent’s life and work, particularly his discovery of colour.’ The two lived in the Jardin Majorelle, where they transformed the garden into a living artwork. Just outside the imperial city’s red medina, it’s next door to the Musée YSL Marrakech, which opens this month as Bergé’s tribute to Saint Laurent. ‘I don’t want it to be a mausoleum,’ he told Olivier Marty and Karl Fournier from Paris-based Studio Ko whom Bergé tasked with the project. The outside is a dusty local terracotta woven like threads of a cotton kaftan, while inside it imagines the smooth, cool lining of a jacket. ‘The allusions to his work remain subtle. Sometimes it’s a floor that curves up like a cape trailing along the floor,’ says Studio Ko. The space displays on rotation some 200 outfits shipped from Paris, including the iconic Le Smoking tuxedo. A second museum at the original Paris atelier opens simultaneously, with the designer’s studio as he left it. Saint Laurent wanted people to study his work for years to come, and his partner made his wish a reality. ‘And so the adventure we began so long ago, when we didn’t know what fate would have in store for us, continues,’ said Bergé.

Museum architects Olivier Marty ROOKSANA HOSSENALLY museeyslmarrakech.com and Karl Fournier and, left, Yves Saint Laurent in 1978 in Morocco

22 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

Above and top, the terracotta exterior of the Musée YSL Marrakech

ARTFUL TAKEOVER We’re used to retrospectives of a sole artist or designer appearing at our cultural institutions (fashion fans should catch the Christian Dior show at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris until 7 January 2018, and the Balenciaga exhibition at London’s V&A until 18 February).

But whole museums devoted to a single creative allow not just the collection but also the building itself to be revelatory.

As well as the new YSL museum in Marrakech, this month in Tokyo, Yayoi Kusama, known for her dotty creations, is launching an eponymous museum of her work. The five-storey space has huge windows, allowing the art to be glimpsed by passers-by.

PHOTOGRAPHS: GUY MARINEAU; NICOLAS MATHEUS/FONDATION JARDIN MAJORELLE; MATTHIEU SALVAING

A NEW YSL MUSEUM IN MOROCCO TRACES THE LIFE OF THE FASHION PIONEER

Quality. Time.

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IONIAN ISLANDS

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CORSICA

WORD OF MOUTH

SPIN CITY

COULD BOGOTA BE ABOUT TO TOPPLE LIMA’S CROWN AS THE SOUTH AMERICAN FOODIE CAPITAL?

What’s taking off and what’s running out of fuel SHANGHAI

HYGGE

A rush of fresh places to stay in the city include Capella in a cluster of townhouses, The Middle House from Swire Hotels, and a new Aman on the outskirts.

Goodbye Danish cosiness, hello Japanese ikigai – the latest global lifestyle trend. Check it out at London’s Japan House when it opens mid-2018.

SHIPPING FORECAST

BOOKING WEBSITES

Cruising gets a shake-up as Ritz-Carlton builds three small, ultra-luxury boats and Quintessentially creates a floating private members’ club, both to set sail in 2019.

Instead, your next holiday could be chosen by taking a DNA swab (with DNA Unwrapped) or reading your brain waves (tested by the Singapore Tourist Board).

HOUSE STYLE

SEATBACK MOVIES

Hotels are launching interiors lines: channel Nick Jones’ cool vibe with Soho Home, Oetker Collection’s grand hotels with Eden Being and hippie chic with Uxua Casa.

In-flight entertainment is about to get a whole lot more immersive as Air France trials 3D virtual-reality headsets for long-haul film-watching. SARAH BARNES

24 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS: PETER FRANK EDWARDS/REDUX/EYEVINE; MICHAEL HANSON/AURORA PHOTOS; GRANT HARDER; RAYMOND PATRICK; JANE SWEENEY/AWLIMAGES.COM

A decade ago, Colombian chefs placed European cooking on a pedestal, and holding a top restaurant award in the civil-war-ravaged country was unthinkable. But 11 months after the government and Farc guerrillas reached a peace agreement, Bogotá, the high-altitude capital, is hosting Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants awards on 24 October. The city is also home to a Basque Culinary World Prize winner and a slew of young chefs who are rummaging through a diverse pantry which spans the Andes, Amazon and Caribbean. Leading the pack is Leonor Espinosa who gives under-rated ingredients a starring role with dishes such as piracucú fish, cassava and cacay fruit in coconut milk at Leo Cocina y Cava. Cutting their teeth at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Jorge Rausch and his pastrychef brother Mark paved the way for creative cooking back in their home town. Their eight-course menu at Criterion kicks off with yam cappuccino served in English china. Over at El Cielo, social and culinary innovations fuse as chef Juan Manuel Barrientos has trained 300 ex-soldiers injured by landmines alongside former Farc fighters, and offers a highly experimental tasting menu. Meanwhile, rising stars are setting up shop in the hip neighbourhood of Chapinero Alto. At one-to-watch restaurant Villanos en Bermudas big-haired chefs Nicolás López and Sergio Meza change their bargain $40 nine-course menu daily, and at El Chato, Alvaro Clavijo serves lamb saddle, quinoa and chickpeas as the very best elevated Colombian comfort food. SORREL MOSELEY-WILLIAMS

WORD OF MOUTH

northern exposure SATIRICAL PHOTOGRAPHER MARTIN PARR HAS A SOFT SPOT FOR SCOTLAND. FIONA KERR SHARES HIS ENTHUSIASM I grew up just outside Glasgow, where Scottish holidays meant square sausages and potato scones on the early-morning CalMac ferry to Arran, long, winding coach journeys on school trips to Raasay to throw ourselves down waterfalls, and snowball ices at the Formica-preserved Ritz Café on the dreich Millport seafront. And the midges. The bloody midges. ‘I’m obsessed with the Scottish islands,’ says Martin Parr. ‘I’ve been to almost all of them – I go island ticking.’ There’s a warm bleakness to much of Parr’s new book, Think of Scotland, which collects together images taken over the last 25 years: from a deserted mini-golf course overlooking the Firth of Clyde at Dunoon to prize radishes at the Shapinsay Agricultural Show on Orkney; a raindrop blurred car windscreen looking down an empty single-track road on the Isle of North Uist, and a lone swimmer ploughing lengths at Gourock lido under an ominously overcast sky. ‘I often start out by taking the clichés – the Highland Games, kilts and Irn-Bru – and exploring them, exaggerating them, making them slightly different. That’s why it’s called Think of Scotland, because many of the things you see in the book are the things that come to mind when you think of Scotland; it explores those national rituals.’ And Parr’s tip for taking better travel photographs wherever you are? ‘Come in closer and show the unexpected,’ he says. ‘Show the thing that you’ve noticed but no one else has. I mean, friends and family posing in front of everything – it’s boring.’

‘Think of Scotland’ by Martin Parr (Daimani, £30) is out now

26 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS: MARTIN PARR/MAGNUM PHOTOS

Clockwise from above: photographs from Marin Parr’s new book, including prizes from the East Mainland Show 2007, Orkney Islands; Islay Show; sandwiches at Dounby Show 2007; the Shapinsay Agricultural Show 2008, Orkney Islands; Perth Show 2011; Nardini’s Café in Largs

ANYTHING ELSE IS JUST A HOLIDAY

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You tell us what you like, what your family traditions are, what makes your Christmas Day special and we’ll make it happen.

The atmosphere in the resorts is truly buzzing with Santa processions, fireworks, skiing shows, music and markets. Your chalet is decorated beautifully and little ones are encouraged to decorate more. Your Private Chef will cook up your dream Christmas meal, be it turkey, goose, duck or seafood. There’ll be cocktails, Christmas pudding, a visit from Santa, crackers and lots of treats and surprises. All you have to do is sit back, relax and forget about the washing up.

To start planning your luxury ski holiday today, visit scottdunn.com or call on 0203 130 6908

Chalet Amourette, Val d’Isère

HO HO SNOW

WORD OF MOUTH

love in a cold climate FROM POLE TO POLE, FEELING THE CHILL HAS SUDDENLY BECOME HOT They call Dutchman Wim Hof ‘The Iceman’. The understandably weathered-looking 58-year-old has climbed 22,000ft up Mount Everest in just a pair of shorts, run a half marathon in the Arctic barefoot, and set numerous Guinness World Records for the longest time submerged in an ice bath (currently a bone-shuddering 1 hour 52 minutes). How? Why? Hof says he has learnt to control his body temperature and immune system thanks to rigorous training including special breathing techniques, something akin to extreme hyperventilation. Now scientists are studying his method to see what it could hold for the treatment of auto-immune diseases. For all sorts of reasons it seems the desire to get out into wintry expanses has never been greater.

Cold-water swimming clubs are booming. And even surfers are migrating from their natural tropical habitats to Alaska and Iceland. For a quick fix, from November you can take a private-jet day trip from Cape Town to Antarctica (carbon offset, of course) with polar outfit White Desert. Have a few weeks to spare? Then seek out expedition pros Secret Compass and join Siberia’s nomadic Nenet people as they move their reindeer across the Gulf of Ob. A new book, Below Zero: Adventures out in the Cold, charts cool undertakings from ice-climbing in Washington to the Snow Quake motorcycle race in the Italian Alps. Just the thing to pack for a stay at one of Esko’s cabins, which are pulled by a snowmobile out onto a frozen lake in Finnish Lapland. FK ‘Below Zero: Adventures out in the Cold’ is out now (Gestalten, £35). Esko’s cabin from £158; canopyandstars.co.uk

PHOTOGRAPH: ANNA FILIPOVA FROM ‘BELOW ZERO; ADVENTURES OUT IN THE COLD’/GESTALTEN 2017

Pictured, a shack in Ny-Alesund on Norway’s Svalbard archipelago, the northernmost civilian outpost in the world

28 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

RAYMOND WEIL creates a variation on the shine watch inspired by the world of ballet. A symbol of freedom, elegance and movement, the timepiece asserts its character as a true performer through the versatility of two interchangeable straps crafted in Repetto leather.

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THE FANTASY LIFESTYLE

VAN LIFE

A NEW GENERATION OF DRIFTERS ARE PACKING IT ALL IN AND TAKING TO THE ROAD. BY LAURA CHUBB WHEN, AT AGE 23, Foster Huntington quit his job as a designer at Ralph Lauren and gave up his New York apartment to live in a van, one friend went so far as to stage an intervention. It didn’t work. Huntington – a stringy hippie at heart – drove off to chase waves and camp against the most epic backdrops North America had to offer. But, thanks to the hashtag he affixed to the Insta-shots of his 1987 Volkswagen Vanagon, framed in front of Big Sur’s sweeping ocean views or northern California’s massive, old-growth redwoods, Huntington found himself a sort of boho Pied Piper. He had originally meant #vanlife as a joking riff on Tupac’s famous ‘thug life’ tattoo. But it fast became a bona-fide movement. Other pretty young things followed his lead and dropped out, eschewing the house, the piles of possessions and the nine-to-five. They too bought vintage rides, packed wetsuits and camping stoves, and set out to live on the road. In the six years since Huntington sold all his belongings and went west, the hashtag has been posted to Instagram almost two million times.

‘I had no clue it would be so big,’ says Huntington, whose home is now a treehouse in the Pacific Northwest. ‘It’s amazing people have taken the opportunity to think differently about what life can be.’ In tribute to his lifestyle, this month Huntington releases his new photo book, titled, of course, Van Life. Part inspirational escapism and part geeky ride guide (it’s chaptered by make and model of van), it shows retro-cool, four-wheeled homes in dramatic settings – the forested wilds of Washington state, Utah’s red-rock canyons – submitted by motorhomers from around the world. Asked why he thinks the idea took off, Huntington is quick to call it a millennial phenomenon. ‘We haven’t been dealt the best hand in terms of economic prosperity, and I think people are looking for other ways to be happy,’ he says. ‘Plus, it doesn’t require a crazy amount of money.’

And, on the face of it, this life looks good. Search the hashtag, and an almost infinite roll of seductive images appear: here’s a bikini-clad blonde cooling off in a swimming hole, her long-haired boyfriend tinkering under the bonnet in the distance; there’s the obligatory morning shot out of the back doors, feet poking from under blankets, coffee cups saluting perfect waves.

Huntington funded his roamings by pursuing his creative passions from the road, shooting surf videos and photo projects for Clockwise from far top left: driving through Redwood State Park, California; coffee break inside a 1978 VW Westfalia; a pit stop in Ontario, Canada; a refurbished Blue Bird school bus; ready for the surf in Cornwall; Bonneville Salt Flats, Utah; a school bus kitted out with home comforts; a 1955 VW Samba in Utah; new interior of a VW Herman; Freddy Thomas in Brittany; Amy Nicholson waking up in Puponga, New Zealand November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 33

outdoor brands such as Patagonia. Today, however, #vanlife is its own industry. Cyrus Sutton, a baby-faced pro surfer and ambassador for brands including Reef and Guayaki Yerba Mate, treats his 125,000 Instagram followers to stills of life in a souped-up Mercedes Sprinter (wood stove, solar-powered shower), while also making short films ‘exploring sustainability and creativity in the outdoors’. Other prolific #vanlife taggers are simply influencers paid to sell the lifestyle. Among the most followed are couple Corey Smith and Emily King, a beardy bro and hard-bodied yogi, who work products such as Kettle Chips into carefully posed on-the-road vignettes; a post from their account, @wheresmyofficenow, typically gets around 5,000 likes.

Huntington too loved van life, but cautions that ‘the overly aspirational stuff can be misleading’. Posts might depict sundappled hammock snoozing more than loitering unwashed in a Walmart car park, but the reality is somewhere between.

‘All these cool-looking vehicles break down a lot because they’re old,’ say Huntington. ‘And then there’s the not-so-glamorous sleeping at the side of the road or having to find a bathroom.’ Still, he sounds almost offended that van life has, on Instagram at least, become more about cute couples filtered to perfection: ‘That’s doing it a disservice – it’s so much more.’ For him, being active, moving around and meeting new people made him feel alive.

Nevertheless, after three years at the wheel, Huntington sold his rig and repaired to some land his parents own in Washington, where he built a couple of treehouses and a skate bowl. Now 29, he produces skating and boarding films from the property, posting updates of his fantasy wonderland to a million followers. So, why give it all up? For the first time, Huntington doesn’t pause: ‘I didn’t want to live in a van forever.’

‘Van Life’ by Foster Huntington is published on 12 October (Little, Brown, £16.99) Clockwise from top: Calum Creasey beside his Volkswagen Transporter T4 and his essential equipment; a VW Westfalia parked up in Joshua Tree, California; inside Freddy Thomas’s van in Portugal; the Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia; chilling out in Quebec

HOW TO SPOT THE SPECIES TRACKING DOWN THE MILLENNIAL NOMADS The van-dweller is largely found on the west coast of the USA. Migration patterns generally follow gnarly swells along the California shoreline, though this perma-tanned creature has been known to seek shade in the forests of Oregon and Washington. Come winter, they head for Lake Tahoe or perhaps the Grand Tetons of Wyoming, wherever there is likely to be rad snowboarding. However, as a nomadic creature, this breed can be found all over the world, assuming there’s a suitably photogenic backdrop. Males are known for lush manes, but tend to keep them in top knots. Their primary role is as fixer/feeder; most are found cooking sorghum or stemming an oil leak. Away from the van, they require a snowboard or surfboard for stability. Females are the better-loved of the species, showered with likes for the habit of doing yoga in bikinis. When spotted together, both sexes are almost always sitting on top of their van, gazing out over a mountain vista. Against all practical instincts, a van-dweller will usually share its tiny habitat with a huge dog.

34 November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller

ON LOCATION

INTERIORS WONDERGIRL KELLY WEARSTLER HAS A

I’m a big fan of Liz Lambert and her St Cecilia hotel in Austin so was excited to visit her new one, San Cristóbal.

Everything resonates with her casual-chic approach.

This part of Mexico is full of wide-screen nature and historic buildings. We brought our newly adopted Javier pup along for the fun, rescued from Pescy Dogs in nearby El Pescadero.

We tooled around on scooters through the desert, giant cardon cacti lining the path, and ended up at the farm restaurant Jazamango for creative Mexican comfort food.

The restored haciendas and cobblestone streets of Todos Santos come to life under the bright Californian sun.

Even the shadows tell an intriguing story.

36 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

KNACK OF ZONING IN ON THE BEST NEW PLACES. HERE SHE TAKES A FAMILY TRIP TO MEXICO’S TODOS SANTOS

Waking up in this setting each morning was very special. One day we went up the coast to Shipwreck Beach in search of great waves. The family that surfs together stays together.

Walking around town revealed lots of amazing eye-candy: the beautiful political murals in the entryway of the Centro Cultural, and the 1940s teatro in the main square.

The output of local farmers and in this area is extraordinary. At Hierbabuena they serve salads straight from the garden and grilled

A photo can only hint at what the skies over the Sierra de la Laguna are like, best viewed from San Cristóbal’s courtyard with a sunhat and hands-down the best Margaritas.

Doubles at Hotel San Cristóbal from about £270 (sancristobalbaja.com); kellywearstler.com

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WHERE TO STAY INSIDER REPORTS ON THE BEST PLACES TO CHECK IN

SKI HOTELS UNDER £150

SNOW PATROL

HERE ARE THE MOST POCKET-FRIENDLY SPOTS IN THE MOST POWDER-PACKED DESTINATIONS AROUND THE WORLD EDITED BY FIONA KERR

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 39

WHERE TO STAY

£115

A NIGHT

FIELD GUIDE, VERMONT The hills are alive in Stowe – and not just because the real-life von Trapp family opened a lodge here in Vermont after leaving Austria in the 1940s. And while it’s not the Alps, the pretty, clapboard town is one of the top skiing spots on the east coast, attracting its fair share of well-heeled skiers from New England and Montreal. Lark Hotels, known for its colourful coastal inns in Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, chose Stowe for its first foray inland. And Lark’s designer, Rachel Reider, has modernised the traditional lodge look with mid-century touches (hairpin-legged coffee tables and curvaceous armchairs), playful nods to nature (bird- and snowy-wood-printed wallpaper; cardboard hunting trophies), as well as signature pops of colour in zingy green, orange and purple. Outside is a heated pool, and fire pits ringed by Acapulco chairs; the 116 trails of Mount Mansfield and Spruce Peak are a 15-minute complimentary shuttle-ride away. The hotel hub is Picnic Social, a laid-back hangout with orange-painted benches outside and shuffleboard tables inside, serving shared plates (fried chicken sandwiches with house kimchi; fish tacos) and weekend brunches. Breakfast is delivered daily to your door in a wire basket; inside are mason jars filled with overnight-soaked oats, hot eggs, smoothies and maybe a just-baked pumpkin muffin. +1 802 253 8088; fieldguidestowe.com. Doubles from about £115

£45

A NIGHT

ROCKYPOP HOTEL, NEAR CHAMONIX In a sea of gingham curtains, mounted antlers and twee cowshed-chic excesses, this is a refreshing antidote. Part Mama Shelter, part retro Americana, RockyPop is where the cool young snow crew come for an urban vibe and 148 remarkably affordable bedrooms. Granted, those rooms are small, but they have supremely comfortable beds, powerful showers (but no baths), unlimited on-demand films, and just enough storage space. Besides, it’s far more fun hanging out downstairs: the ground floor is one giant adult playground with table football, table tennis, games consoles, live music at the bar, a photo booth and two fire-warmed terraces. There’s even an excellent in-house ski rental shop. Night owls note though: the hotel is in the sleepy village of Les Houches, a 10-minute drive from central Chamonix, so partying in town will mean getting a cab home. But you can take a five-minute free shuttle to the tree-lined slopes of Les Houches for easy access to an area made for beginners and intermediates.

Another bonus: a Les Houches lift pass is cheaper than a full Chamonix one. Wherever you ski, you’ll work up an appetite for dinner, which is dished up at long communal tables. It’s tempting to head straight to the red food truck for oven-fresh pizzas and towering burgers but don’t neglect the swankier French and Asian dishes at the Bistro – tuna tataki followed by Chateaubriand-for-two definitely hits the après-ski spot. +33 485 30 00 00; rockypop chamonix.com. Doubles from about £45

£110

A NIGHT

COACHMAN HOTEL, LAKE TAHOE Perhaps there are loftier mountain lodges on the west coast, but mainstay spots on the American ski scene tend to lack Stumptown-trained baristas at breakfast and fireside s’mores in the evening. For guests at the Coachman Hotel, which opened last year in South Lake Tahoe, that’s precisely the point. The lodge combines two former Sixties Californian motels and attracts a lively bunch of 20- and 30-somethings who gather in the lobby-bar and on the deck for après-ski when Jenga blocks topple off tree-trunk coffee tables and on-tap craft beer flows beneath an old-school letter-board bar menu. This is the hotel version of counter-culture, with retro sofas, crackle-glass chandeliers and cactus lamps. While there isn’t a valet, room service, or even a proper restaurant, there is a Tesla electric charging station, outdoor pool and hot tub, and a rotating bar-bites menu with smoked-trout dip, black-tahini hummus and charcuterie plates. The 42 rooms are decked out in high-low style: practical rubber-floored entrances flank poured concrete dotted with ink-coloured rugs handwoven in India; plywood framed beds are covered with Frette linens; and simple white-tiled bathrooms are stocked with Malin + Goetz goodies. Schedule an in-room ski fitting before walking five minutes to the Heavenly Mountain gondola. Some 2,750 feet up, 30 chairlifts and 97 runs await, ranging from wide-open cruisers to plunging chutes. +1 530 545 6460; coachmantahoe.com. Doubles from about £110

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 41

£150

A NIGHT

NIEDERMAIRHOF, SOUTH TYROL The centuries collide at this intriguing B&B. From one side it looks like a classic old Dolomite farmhouse (which it is, it’s been in the Mair family for 200 years), but from the other it appears as if it’s growing out of a rocky outcrop thanks to an ultra-contemporary, angular extension. The current owners, Kathrin Mair and Helmulth Mayr, restored the house from its 14th-century foundations, gutting, transforming and salvaging in equal measure to create this charming eight-room retreat. Inside, the clever mix of old and new continues: cables suspending filament bulbs are strung around ancient beams above the stairs; heavy antique wooden wardrobes stand next to 21stcentury-design sofas on restored original parquet floors in the individually decorated bedrooms. Those with an interest in modern architecture – or indeed mountaineering – should visit the nearby Messner Mountain Museum. The spaceship-like structure embedded in the summit of Mount Kronplatz was created by Zaha Hadid for Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner (the first person to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen). And skiers can hop between the Kronplatz, Speikboden and Klausberg ski areas, which have everything from black routes to sled runs. +39 348 247 6761; whitelinehotels.com.

Doubles from about £150

£130

A NIGHT

This funky little place is what happens when a Viennese architect (Ike Ikrath) meets an Alpine hotelier (Evelyn, who grew up in Miramonte’s sister property, Haus Hirt, further down the mountainside). Together they have revamped this Sixties building, which overlooks the Gasteiner Valley and the elegant Belle Epoque town of Bad Gastein an hour and a half south of Salzburg. And while there are modern touches, the hotel still retains a sense of its old-world glamour. In the bedrooms, contemporary grey walls are offset by tall Swiss-pine headboards (a nod to chalet style with that know-youare-in-the-Alps scent), while in the restaurant and on the huge terrace delicate industrial-wire Bertoia chairs are topped with cosy white faux fur. Breakfast, with cold-pressed juices, homemade marmalades, farmhouse bread and Alpine-hut butter, is lazily served until 11.30.

And after spending the day on the many slopes around the Gastein ski area or snowshoeing in the magical Hohe Tauern National Park, kick back in a hammock on the deck of one of the Panorama rooms or pop to the Aveda spa for a treatment, some of which use the town’s famously radon-rich healing waters. +43 643 425 770; whiteline hotels.com. Doubles from about £130

PHOTOGRAPHS: MIKAEL KENNEDY; READ MCKENDREE

MIRAMONTE HOTEL, BAD GASTEIN

WHERE TO STAY

£145

A NIGHT

ANVIL HOTEL, WYOMING The valley of Jackson Hole in western Wyoming – and its little town of Jackson – historically had a reputation as an isolated, rough-around-the-edges outpost. The likes of Four Seasons and Aman Resorts might have arrived in recent decades, yet its heart still lies in the earthy, frontier vibe, with cowboy bars lining wood-plank footpaths. It’s a feeling that the latest newcomer, the Anvil Hotel, has skilfully riffed off, creating an authentic Western inn free of the usual cow-hide clichés.

Originally opened as a motel in the 1950s, the Anvil was bought in 2015 by hotelier Erik Warner – who once had a part-time job on the front desk – and updated with the help of Brooklyn’s Studio Tack. It was relaunched earlier this year and the 49 rooms still open straight onto the car park in true motel style. Yet inside there’s a modern take on classic Americana: wainscot walls, brass bathroom fittings, custommade Charles P Rogers’ iron beds topped with specially designed Anvil-blue Woolrich blankets. These are for sale in the lobby, which also doubles as a general store, where a wood stove burns in one corner and there’s coffee from the local Snake River Roasting Co and pastries from Persephone Bakery, a few blocks away. The hearty pasta menu at the hotel’s cosy, Italian-inspired Glorietta Trattoria is just the thing during the long winters, when the frozen solitude of nearby Yellowstone National Park is a draw. Although the main attraction is, of course, the slopes. Skiers can test their chops on the mostly off-piste areas of the relentlessly steep mountain. +1 307 733 3668; anvilhotel.com. Doubles from about £145 November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 43

WHERE TO STAY

£135

A NIGHT

REFUGE DU MONTENVERS, CHAMONIX The latest outpost from hip hotel group Terminal Neige requires a bit of effort to get to, but that effort is richly rewarded. Built in 1880 as a rustic mountaineers’ lodge, this handsome granite structure is 2,050 metres above sea level and reachable on the dinky red Montenvers funicular train, which winds slowly up through snow-topped forests to France’s largest glacier, the eye-popping Mer de Glace. It’s possible to ski more than 2.7km down the glacier, following the Vallée Blanche off-piste route, so, if you’re feeling particularly gnarly, you can check in on skis. The refuge has been freshly renovated by the Sibuet family, creators of glossy hotels such as Les Fermes de Marie in Megève and Lyon’s Cour des Loges. Brilliantly, they’ve retained all the original charm (red-and-white-painted shutters, dark timber-clad walls, plenty of fires and a fabulous Twenties bar) while injecting comfort and style in the 20 rooms with thick tweed curtains, miners’ lamps and leather trunks by the beds. Staying here is about immersing yourself in mountain calm, hiking along the glacier, falling asleep to the burbling ice-melt streams and waking up to the sun hitting the jagged peaks encircling the hotel. It’s also about eating fabulous food (three-course dinners are included in the room price): Savoyarde casseroles with creamy polenta and a superb tartiflette, served with cracking local wines. +33 450 53 87 70; refuge.terminal-neige.com. Doubles from about £135 CONTRIBUTORS: Brigid Mander, Debbie Pappyn, Mary Quincy, Michaela Trimble, Sam Wavroshek 44 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

WHERE TO STAY

BED-HOPPING WITH EMILY MORTIMER THE STAR OF ‘SHUTTER ISLAND’ AND BOXSET HIT ‘THE NEWSROOM’ TALKS TO FRANCESCA BABB

BABYLONSTOREN SOUTH AFRICA ‘This is in wine country, about 40 minutes outside Cape Town, and it’s stunning. Dutch 18th-century farmhouses set in vineyards, with incredible landscapes, beautiful vegetation and excellent wine. It’s so classily done. We stayed in a little cottage with a kitchen; you go out into the garden in the morning and pick vegetables, there are chickens and the children can collect eggs. There are also bicycles to go exploring and an amazing hammam. The grounds are exquisite; I’ve never seen such well-tended gardens.’ babylonstoren.com. Doubles from about £330

‘MY FATHER TAUGHT ME TO STEAL AN ASHTRAY FROM EVERY HOTEL I WENT TO. BUT I FORGOT TO GET ONE FROM LA COLOMBE D’OR’

COQUI COQUI COBA MEXICO ‘This is part of an incredibly chic hotel group and perfumery started by a glamorous couple that Alessandro [Nivola, Emily’s husband] and I met at an art installation we did for Valentino in New York. I just thought we would get free clothes, but we had to stand for hours and my husband had to hold a manbag, which I don’t think he’s forgiven me for. Nicolas Malleville was one of the models with us, and this is his hotel. You’re in the middle of the jungle on a lake, with staggeringly odd Mayan ruins nearby. It’s really wonderful, and I loved it.’ coquicoqui.com. Doubles from about £230 Emily Mortimer stars in ‘The Party’ which is in cinemas from 13 October 46 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

SU GOLOGONE SARDINIA ‘This place is very off the beaten track, a 20-minute drive from the coast at Cala Gonone, which has crystal-clear waters. It is poetic and romantic; you go up little stairwells and there is your room with a terrace and a bath outside.

They roast suckling pigs all in a row on the fire, about a million of them every day, because that’s what they do in Sardinia.’ sugologone.it. Doubles from about £180

PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHAEL PAUL; STEFANO SCATA; HILARY WALSH/TRUNK ARCHIVE

LA COLOMBE D’OR FRANCE ‘Travel is a nice way of remembering my father [the late author John Mortimer].

This summer I took my children on a pilgrimage across Europe to fancy hotels he liked. It was a sweet way for them to get to know a bit of him. I recall him talking about La Colombe d’Or – Graham Greene was stationed here for many months during the last years of his life and dad went there to interview him – so it already had an exotic ring to it. It has a green tiled pool, which is the perfect temperature. It’s the chicest place I’ve ever been to.’ la-colombedor.com. Doubles from about £315

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WHERE TO STAY handy stepping stone for longer walks into thistle-down, rabbit-ploughed country acres, or runs through fields of wheat.

SLEEP Of the bedrooms in the main house, number 6 is the largest, with a four-poster and Arts-and-Craftsy wallpaper in the big bathroom, plus several window seats for daydreaming. A separate cottage has three bedrooms, with a wood-burning stove and French doors opening to the lawn.

EAT The cockle-warming menu is on firstname terms with dukkah, seaweed butter and tonka beans while embracing an oldfashioned heartiness – mains of veal and lamb rump, starters of ham hock and a clatter of just-gathered razor clams. It’s a place to throw caution to the wind and order the chateaubriand. Breakfast (waffles, full English, sourdough-and-avocado) is served in the airy bubble of the Glasshouse, with its pretty herringbone brick floor.

WHO COMES HERE? Young London couples, curious locals and rumbustious clan gatherings ordering more rounds of Pisco Sours from Shane the barman.

WE LIKE The swimming pool, hidden by a hedgerow; the booky nook of colourmatched vintage Penguins in the sitting room. And the way a waiter bearing Champagne coupes will seek you out no matter which sofa you sink into.

WE DON’T LIKE The water in that pool was heated but too darn cold to jump into.

THE WEEKENDER

THE RECTORY HOTEL, WILTSHIRE WHY STAY? Because this is no curate’s egg but an ambitious reboot of a much-loved country hotel off the Roman road near Malmesbury. With proper cocktails, an unusually astute art collection and hide-and-seek gardens, it’s just the right sort of house-party backdrop for any would-be Bloomsbury set.

WHY NOW? All the pieces have just been clicked into place, ensuring a full autumnal, walk-then-crumple-into-a-sofa experience.

WHAT IS IT? An oatmeal stone vicarage with 18th-century bones and footworn flagstones, plus a medieval dovecot and a baptism pool in the grounds. Its original occupant sired 14 children – hence the 15 bedrooms – and vicars poured tea here until the 1950s; its first incarnation as a hotel was more than a decade ago. The mossy 48 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

CONTACT +44 1666 577194; therectoryhotel. com. Doubles from £150 RICK JORDAN

churchyard next door would have Donne and Betjeman reaching for their couplets.

BEHIND THE SCENES Former music executive and co-owner Alex Payne grew up in the Cotswolds and wanted to create a homely hangout – ‘not the Electric in the country’. He’s a first-time hotelier, but had spot-on guidance from Charlie Luxton and Dan Brod, the team behind the West Country’s whip-smart Beckford Arms and Talbot Inn. The result is an assured space that’s as comfortable as corduroy, with an almost Nordic sensibility – petrol-blue walls, high-backed club chairs, cast-iron baths, encaustic tiles. An art-dealer friend has filled the walls with angular 3Ds and geometrics, the odd Miró and Braque and a huge, oily nebula by Richter. Payne also picked up the Potting Shed pub down the lane, a

OUT AND ABOUT Tis the season for leaf-peeping at Westonbirt Arboretum, and birding or biking at the Cotswolds Water Park. Head to Tetbury for antiques (try Lorfords) and homewares from Domestic Science, above, and the Highgrove shop. The Jolly Nice deli-restaurant, in a former filling station nearby, is a hit with locals.

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Tragaki, Zakynthos, 291 00 Greece. T: (+30)26950 61600 E: info@lesanteblu.gr

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THE OWNER OF THIS LODGE ONCE KITE-SKIED TO ANTARCTICA, COLLECTS MILITARY ROCKETS, AND WAS ARRESTED 10 TIMES FOR SPEEDING IN THE GUMBALL RALLY ACROSS AMERICA. NOW HIS ALL-ADVENTURE DEN IN SOUTH AFRICA CAN BE TAKEN OVER FOR CRAZY HIJINKS OF YOUR OWN

BY LISA GRAINGER. PHOTOGRAPHS BY GREG COX

PHOTOGRAPHIC PRODUCTION: SVEN ALBERDING

WAY OF LIFE

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 51

Clockwise from top left: the main living area at Leobo; the copper dome of the observatory; bathroom space; ďŹ re pit on a private deck.

Previous pages, clockwise from far left: hippo skeleton above the dining table; a bedroom; outdoor sitting room; shower; the pool deck

WAY OF LIFE

HAVING MARRIED ON NORTH ISLAND IN the Seychelles, British polar adventurer and tech millionaire Rory Sweet and his wife Lizzy knew precisely which architects they wanted to create their home in the Limpopo bush, three hours’ north of Johannesburg.

The star South African duo Lesley Carstens and Silvio Rech – responsible not only for North Island’s interiors, but those at Miavana in Madagascar, Angama Mara in Kenya and Jao Camp in Botswana – were tasked with an ultra-stylish but liveable design. The result is part tactile, earthy hideaway and part highoctane adventure playground. The Observatory Bush Villa at Leobo is deeply private (within 20,000 acres of pristine reserve), built on the top of a hill facing west to capture the setting sun, with four-poster beds, egg-shaped baths and open-air showers. A place where – with its organic shapes, curving waxed-mud walls and starlit rooftop pool – you could hunker down and lose your heart. Or bring a whole bunch of your closest friends and dance your desert boots off.

‘People say all the time they’ve had more fun here than anywhere else,’ says Sweet. ‘As far as I’m concerned: that’s what holidays are about. There are no rules. So, everyone feels liberated. They can do whatever they want.’ Which clearly, in Sweet’s case, is to dress up. In the hallway, there’s a hat rack of wigs and a couple of silver spacesuits to step into. Climb the twisting stairs

non-threatening giraffe, zebra and antelope. Which means guests are free to roam wherever they like during the day. And there is virtually no light pollution. At night, lying on the enormous deck, floating in the rooftop hot tub beside the imposing Angus Taylor sculpture or sitting round the fire pit just staring at the thick, glittering band of the Milky Way, it’s not unusual to be interrupted by the slow blink of a satellite or the fizzing tail of a shooting star.

But Sweet doesn’t sit around much. With half a dozen children aged between one and 20, he and Lizzy are kept busy during March and November, when they decamp to Leobo. The family are all keen riders, and own eight local Boerperd horses on which they cross the 190 miles of tracks on their land. There are also mountain bikes on which to whizz through the scrub and a range on which to practise clay-pigeon shooting. One serious adrenalin junkie was set up to be trained by and taken out on patrol with a former SAS combat specialist.

Not everyone has quite the same zest for action as Leobo’s owners. After fishing at the small dam (where guests can play tug-of-war with a crocodile, using a rope baited with a chicken), exploring the ruins of a post-Stone Age citadel and sipping cocktails on the deck, I was happy just to pad about the house, to admire their collections (which include a wallet made from human

THE OWNER LOVES HELI-PAINTBALLING, WHERE GUESTS ON QUADBIKES TRY TO AVOID BEING SPLATTERED BY SHOOTERS FLYING ABOVE THEM IN A CHOPPER to the mezzanine sitting room, and you find a trunk of onesies to borrow for chilly nights, alongside a haphazard collection of fantastical outfits left by previous merrymakers. And then there are the boys’ toys.

Back in his Wiltshire home, Sweet’s playthings include an unused Russian HFL Kholod rocket which he bought at auction because ‘it was the coolest thing I’d ever seen and flew 5,000 miles an hour’. In Leobo his kit is slightly more useful: Polaris off-road vehicles, 700cc quad bikes, zip wires and rifles of all sizes. He also has access to the ultimate bush toy: a helicopter. ‘Whenever we’re here, we have it on standby,’ he says. ‘Some days we’ll fly to the top of a mountain for sundowners, on others we’ll go to a river, land in a narrow canyon and spend the afternoon fly fishing, swimming and picnicking. Some people skydive from it – I don’t because I have six kids, and it’s pretty scary up at 12,000ft. But some people go for that. An 11-year-old tried it last time.’

What he loves best after heli-paintballing (people on quad bikes try to avoid being splattered by shooters above them in the chopper), is spending hours in his observatory, which is equipped with two NASA-grade telescopes. ‘They’re incredible,’ he says.

‘One is a 20-inch Dall-Kirkham for gazing at stars, planets and nebulae – I’ve seen the shadows on Saturn from the rings, and every detail of the Moon.’ The other is an eight-inch hydrogenalpha scope for looking at the sun, ‘so you can see solar flares’.

Best of all, you can type into a computer the star you want to see, and the telescope will swing round, find it, and focus in.

Even without the telescope, in this part of the world the stars seem to hang just above you. The Waterberg area is not a Big Five safari destination. It’s made up of a patchwork of farms, hunting concessions and game reserves stocked with

skin, a monk’s skull and sharks’ jaws), and to swim in the cliffside pool to a soundtrack of twittering birds.

As at Angama Mara and Jao Camp, where Carstens and Rech used stone, thatch and sinuous pieces of tree-trunk to create what they call their ‘evolved Afrocentric style’, the house feels distinctly African. The architecture, Rech says, reflects the composition of a local homestead, ‘a collection of cells cobbled together to make a home in which the materials and refined detailing stand out’.

In Leobo it’s clear that each detail has been considered, refined and considered again, to allow its simplicity to sing – whether that’s the polished earthen walls and the exotic old Zanzibar doors, aged by the sun and sea air, or the hand-beaten copper lights and the piles of linen cushions that reflect the silvery bark outside. It’s a house that is deeply rooted in the Bushveld landscape. But there are quirky touches too: the chandelier above the dining table made of a full hippopotamus skeleton. The eclectic African art, including an AK-47 bedecked in flowers. The ceiling covered in hand-stitched wildebeest skins. The semicircular banquette that looks like it’s come straight out of Austin Powers. And the triple-bunk children’s room painted with a giant frog sticking out its tongue. Yes, you can come here to play but you can also just press pause: fill your lungs with air scented with leaves and dust and sun-baked grass, eat slow, mezze-style lunches or smoky pig-spit barbecues in the bush, and watch lightning split the thunderously black African skies.

The Observatory Bush Villa at Leobo Private Reserve, which sleeps six adults and four children, costs from about £4,175 a night (the adjoining Leobo Lodge has eight cottages that can also be booked) through Aardvark Safaris (+44 20 8150 7216; aardvarksafaris.co.uk)

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 53

DETAILS

KING’S CROSS, LONDON FEBRUARY 2017

BRNO, CZECH REPUBLIC SEPTEMBER 2015

CANUELAS, ARGENTINA FEBRUARY 2017

LE THORONET, PROVENCE SEPTEMBER 2015

HYPER

HE’S KNOWN FOR HIS CLEAN LINES AND MINIMAL PALETTE, BUT IN JOHN PAWSON’S NEW BOOK OF 54 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

OVER NAMUNYAK, KENYA MARCH 2013

JAFFA, ISRAEL JUNE 2013

BAGAN, BURMA JANUARY 2013

MARRAKECH, MOROCCO AUGUST 2015

REAL

PHOTOGRAPHY, THE ARCHITECT REVEALS HE’S ACTUALLY A SUCKER FOR COLOURS AND THE ABSTRACT

DETAILS

SEDONA, ARIZONA FEBRUARY 2009

BRIXTON, LONDON MARCH 2017

MAASAI MARA, KENYA JANUARY 2010

KNOKKE, BELGIUM MARCH 2013

56 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

MARFA, TEXAS APRIL 2014

ATACAMA DESERT, CHILE APRIL 2015

FLORENCE, TUSCANY JULY 2014

MONSERRAT, BUENOS AIRES FEBRUARY 2017

DETAILS

OVER CHILE APRIL 2015

OVER TOKYO DECEMBER 2011

NOTTING HILL, LONDON FEBRUARY 2013

ST TROPEZ SEPTEMBER 2015

58 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

MINILOC ISLAND, THE PHILIPPINES MARCH 2016

CORNWELL, OXFORDSHIRE DECEMBER 2014

MURASAKINO, KYOTO NOVEMBER 2015

LITTLE MILTON, OXFORDSHIRE AUGUST 2015

‘SPECTRUM’ BY JOHN PAWSON IS OUT 13 NOVEMBER (£45, PHAIDON)

PHOTOGRAPH: GRANT JAMES-THOMAS STYLED BY MARTHA WARD MODEL: LIZ KENNEDY AT HIVE MANAGEMENT. LACE-WORK DRESS, £775, COACH.COM. STRAW HAT, STYLIST’S OWN

FABULOUS FOLK ON THEIR FAVOURITE PLACES

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

MALDIVES

Travel wash for swimwear, £15, Mrs White’s Swimcare (roullierwhite. com). Anthelios XL SPF 50, £16.50, La Roche-Posay (laroche-posay. co.uk). Knackered Cow bath & shower gel, £21, Cowshed x Mary Katrantzou (cowshed online.com) Flip flops, £28, Havaianas (havaianas-store.com).

Beoplay H4 wireless headphones, £249, B&O (beoplay.com)

QUINCY DAVIS RIDE THE UNCROWDED WAVES OF THE INDIAN OCEAN WITH THE WORLD-CLASS SHORTBOARDER

Shorts, £155, Wiggy Kit (wiggykit.com).

Genaissance de La Mer eye and expression cream, £217, Crème de la Mer exclusive to (uk. worlddutyfree.com). Sun visor, POA, Miu Miu (miumiu.com)

Quincy is sponsored by Volcom and Channel Islands Surfboards

62 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

Pink Pepperpod body wash, £20, Molton Brown (moltonbrown.co.uk).

Tsavorite and silver Orbit bracelet, £730, Brooke Gregson (brookegregson.com)

Wetsuit, £200, Cynthia Rowley (cynthiarowley.com)

PHOTOGRAPH: MORGAN MAASSEN

‘I grew up in Montauk, New York, so I’d spend every day at the beach with my family, who are all surfers. Once I’d started myself, I was hooked, and wanted to be in the water all the time, whatever the weather. I’d stay in a wetsuit the entire day, only taking a break to eat. And I’ll go pretty much anywhere for good waves. It’s a long journey from New York to the Maldives, but it’s a great place to stay on a boat and wake up every morning at a new surf spot. I love the super-glassy point breaks you get, with almost no one else in the water.

You are surrounded the whole time by small islands with palms trees lining the sand, and you feel so isolated. Surfing in the islands consists of lots of long, top to bottom, right points with plenty of push. The water is so clear you can see beautiful fish underneath the whole time you’re in the line-up. When I’m not surfing, I’m usually wakeskating or wakesurfing behind the boat – it’s especially fun when the swell is minimal. I take a variety of wetsuits with me on trips, for example, two full suits and a handful of shorter spring ones. In the water, I love wearing a Volcom bikini under a Cynthia Rowley wetsuit. To get me in competition mode, I usually listen to rap music by Kendrick Lamar or Jay-Z. I’ve also started listening to Future Islands – it’s perfect for chilling out to, especially with a watermelon juice and tequila.’

Red coral necklace, £1,110, Anaconda at Mouki Mou (mouki mou.com). Jangala scented candle, £35, Maison La Bougie (libertylondon.com)

Tasseled Lydia bag, £315, Dodo Bar Or (selfridges.com).

Bleecker embroidered sweatshirt, £189, Cynthia Rowley (as before)

Neon print Bella dress, £130, Seraphina (seraphinalondon. com). Knot My Problem hairbrush, £8, Hershesons (hershesons.com)

Move trainers, £170, Kenzo (kenzo.com).

Sunglasses, £305, Miu Miu (harrods.com).

Leather skipping rope with silver and ebony handles, £350, William & Son (williamandson.com)

Jacket, £1,155, Bottega Veneta (bottegaveneta.com)

FRANKIE HARRER A HAPPY-MAKING PLAYLIST FROM THE PRO-SURFER ‘WHIP IT’ BY DEVO ‘This is just funny and catchy and fires me up, ready to get back into the water.’

‘POLICE AND THIEVES’ BY THE CLASH ‘I’ve been listening toThe Clash forever, and I like surfing to energetic rock.’

‘LET’S DANCE’ BY THE RAMONES ‘I think punk also goes well with surfing, and I’m a big fan of the Ramones.’

‘LOYALTY’ BY KENDRICK LAMAR FT RIHANNA ‘You have to have some rap in the mix.’

‘STAYIN’ ALIVE’ BY THE BEE GEES ‘Finally, there’s got to be some disco hits in here too. This track is perfect.’

NEW 6977-%2 0)%8,)6 -KRMXI 8LI ;MPHIVRIWW

(EVORIWW9RJSPHW QSPXSRFVS[R GSQ

DiorGenese sunglasses in navy blue, £399, Dior Homme (dior.com)

ROMAN COPPOL A FINDING GREAT LOCATIONS IS EASY WHEN YOU COME FROM A FILM-MAKING DYNASTY ‘My family bought a summer house in Rutherford, in the Napa Valley, in the mid 1970s, but by the end of the decade it had become our permanent home. I travel a lot, and it’s the one place that remains constant. When I return from somewhere, I head north on the large freeway, which narrows to two lanes, then to one. It feels like you’re really back when there’s only a single lane. My favourite place to eat is Ciccio, in Yountville, an authentic Italian restaurant owned by an old family friend, Frank Altamura (you must taste his twist on the Negroni).

The other place we go to is Gott’s Roadside. It used to be called Taylor’s Refresher, and as a kid it was a pretty funky hamburger stand. Now it does all kinds of excellent diner food, including grilled sandwiches and tacos. There are plenty of wineries around us – our neighbour’s label, Scarecrow, has some enjoyable bottles – but usually we drink wine from our own property, specifically those that I’ve made with my kids, with them stamping on the grapes. Our house is close to Mount Saint John, and if you drive up its back roads, there is a beautiful spot that overlooks the whole valley. It’s an amazing place for a sundowner.’

Trialmaster 1969 waxed-cotton jacket, £795, Belstaff (belstaff.co.uk)

Swimming shorts, £225, Orlebar Brown (orlebar brown.com)

WHERE TO STAY: Set on a private estate, the Meadowood Napa Valley hotel is loved for its three-Michelin-star restaurant and winery tours. Molton Browns Gingerlily body wash and body lotion is stocked in suites. meadowood.com

Leather-bound hip flask, £75, William & Son (william andson.com)

Smithfield ankle boots, £325, Russell & Bromley (russelland bromley.co.uk)

66 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

Messenger bag, £895, Mulberry (mulberry.com).

Cowboy Grass eau de parfum, £200 for 100ml, DS & Durga (liberty.co.uk)

Wooden writing set, £180, Brunello Cucinelli (as before)

Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer, £36,000, Omega (omega watches.com).

Russian Leather eau de toilette, £39, Molton Brown (molton brown.co.uk)

Wool and denim pleated trousers, £710, Brunello Cucinelli (brunello cucinelli.com)

PHOTOGRAPHS: JEROME BONNET/MODDS/ CAMERA PRESS; GARY CRABBE/IMAGEBRIEF

NAPA VALLEY

“ At Segera, you don’t check in; you are considered a house guest. I was shown to my villa, all the while admiring the unique sculptures dotted throughout the grounds and the art gallery of modern pieces housed within the old stable block. Did I mention yet that Segera is truly unique?”

CLAIRE PARSONS | EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

and LuxuryBARED Reviewer

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Segera Retreat, Kenya

Cotton turtleneck, £335, Moncler Grenoble (moncler.com)

Stella coat, £895, Olivia von Halle (oliviavonhalle.com)

Nuvola candle, £150, Fornasetti (libertylondon.com)

Hooded jacket, £895, Burberry (burberry.com)

Calliope swimsuit, £147, Sophie Deloudi (sophiedeloudi.gr)

Acetate sunglasses, £200, Moncler Lunettes (moncler.com)

Winter bath oil, £44, Susanne Kaufmann (libertylondon.com)

Frequency one-piece in merino, £140, Perfect Moment (perfectmoment.com)

PHOTOGRAPH: TOM ROBINSON

Skin Caviar Absolute Filler, £410, La Prairie (johnlewis.com)

68 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

GSTAAD

Zone MIPS men’s ski helmet, £180; men’s contact goggles, £229, both Giro (snowandrock.com)

Wool sweater, £165, Lacoste (lacoste.com)

Nisqually mink fur iPhone case, £414, Wild & Woolly (boutique1.com)

Head band, £1,655, Loro Piana (loropiana.com) Black Peppercorn three-wick candle, £60, Molton Brown (moltonbrown.co.uk)

OLIVIA VON HALLE Cotton sweater, £180, Vilebrequin (vilebrequin.com)

Suede boots, £360, SOREL x Chloé (chloe.com)

SWISS MOUNTAIN SWISH WITH THE LONDON-BASED LOUNGEWEAR DESIGNER ‘My husband’s family has been going to Gstaad for years and now my son will be the fourth generation who has learnt to ski here. Take the state-of-the-art Golden Pass railway: it’s the most beautiful smooth ride with magnificent panoramic views of the lake, mountains and wilderness. If you’re lucky you’ll catch the Chocolate train, which has Belle-Epoque carriages will all the vintage style of the Orient-Express.

My favourite place to stay is the Palace, which has had prime position on top of the hill for more than a century and resembles a fairy-tale castle. I love the crisp smell of fresh mountain air, the sound of winter boots crunching on snow, and the bells of the horses and carriages that parade through town.

Skiing on the Wasserngrat is the most challenging in the area because of the infamous Tiger Run. If you want to escape for the day, the site-specific Elevation 1049 art exhibitions are dotted around the region. One year, artists put paint on circular sleds and propelled them over the snow, creating a canvas out of the mountain. I usually shop at Marina Anouilh Showroom and Lorenz Bach. For an expedition out of town I return to the Cailler chocolate factory, north of Montreux, again and again; but the one thing I always bring back is truffle cheese fondue from the local mölkerei, which is delicious.’

WHERE TO STAY: Gstaad Palace, which first opened in 1913, has incredible views of the Swiss Alps. All rooms are stocked with Molton Brown’s Eucalyptus body wash and Coco & Sandalwood body lotion. palace.ch

Keller tracksuit, £650, Olivia von Halle, as before

Victorian armchair, POA, Charles Hindley & Sons (roseuniacke.com)

LONDON Elektra top, £280, Orla Kiely (orlakiely.com)

Rhubarb & Rose replenishing hand cream, £10, Molton Brown (moltonbrown.com)

Rose quartz and gold ring, £600, Loquet (loquet london.com)

Florence Moon trousers, £230, Orla Kiely, as before

Scarf, £195, Mulberry (mulberry.com)

Leather trainers, £1,750, Burberry (burberry.com).

St John memory case, £795, Globe-Trotter (globe-trotter.com)

Glace Calf Etiquette bag, £1,680, Prada (prada.com)

ORL A KIELY

PHOTOGRAPHS: JACQUELINECLAIR; SOPHIE LASLETT /EYEVINE

THE RETRO-PRINT QUEEN ON THE THRILLS TO BE HAD SOUTH OF THE RIVER ‘South London is a destination in its own right these days. There is something to discover in every pocket, from the wide open parks to the excellent restaurants and pop-ups – and, of course, the people. It has been my home for a long time. The Georgian architecture in Clapham is particularly attractive. And I love the Dulwich Picture Gallery – I recently saw a wonderful exhibition about Vanessa Bell, which collected together her paintings and textiles. As a lover of all things designed in the 1950s and 1960s, an absolute favourite is the mid-century fair Colour-block purse, held at Dulwich College. It’s mostly furniture, but there are also some very well-curated glass and £895, JW Anderson ceramics. I go early and find something for my home or one of my stores. Battersea Park, in my (j-w-anderson.com) opinion, is one of the best in London, and has sculpture by Barbara Hepworth and Henry Moore.

With meandering paths along the lake and grand old trees, it’s big enough to hold events or festivals without impacting on the enjoyment of the daily visitors walking their dogs. The Black Lab by Clapham Common is a great place for coffee. I’m very picky about what I drink, so appreciate WHERE TO STAY: The it when you can choose from different roasts or blends. For breakfast, head to the Brick House Jumeirah Carlton Tower in bakery, which has won awards for its sourdough bread and smells heavenly. With its Scandinavian Knightsbridge has a private aesthetic, this is like a modern farmhouse in the city, and it’s wonderful seeing the bakers at work. garden, spa, tennis courts, I often go to The Dairy for delicious fish and small dishes. It has incredible views over Clapham and Molton Brown Orange Common and always makes me happy. A new find for eating out is Llewelyn’s in Herne Hill. There are & Bergamot products in beautiful green banquette chairs and the seasonal menu is carefully planned with the best every room. jumeirah.com/ ingredients. The wine selection is good, too, and the desserts are even better.’ en/london

Portrait Of A Lady eau de parfum, £158 for 50ml, Frédéric Malle (houseof fraser.com)

Utensil pot, £17, Orla Kiely (wildandwolf. com)

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide 71

NEW ORLEANS Talia earrings, £260, Ranjana Khan (ranjanakhan.com)

Dolly Dolla shoe, £585, Christian Louboutin (christian louboutin.com)

Cashmere jumper in lemon print, £317, Iphoria (iphoria.com)

Kika pants, £195, Dodo Bar Or (selfridges.com)

Antaria bikini top, £55; bottoms, £48, both Heidi Klum Swim (zalando.co.uk)

Shag Eyes crossbody bag, £395, Anya Hindmarch (anya hindmarch.com)

Not having a jet is so ratchet painting, POA, Ashley Longshore (ashley longshore.com)

BENJAMIN BOOKER ‘THE NAVIGATOR’ BY HURRAY FOR THE RIFF RAFF ‘The lead singer Alynda Lee Segarra has been a hometown hero in New Orleans for years. I don’t know if someone has ever affected me so much with just an acoustic guitar and a voice.’

‘MUDDY WATER’ BY THE DESLONDES ‘Guitarist Sam Doores was the first person I met when I moved here. Along with Riley Downing, the two are hands down some of the best songwriters you’ll hear today. The real deal.’

72 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

‘CREATIVE’ BY JON BATISTE ‘He is basically New Orleans royalty, coming from a long line of great musicians.

He’s made it to the big time, playing on The Late Show With Stephen Colbert.’

‘JUMP ON IT’ BY BIG FREEDIA ‘If you’re not ready to dance, you’re going to have a hard time fitting in around here. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been walking with a friend as a car drove by blasting Big Freedia, and we just broke into a roadside dance party.’

‘NEW YEAR’S NIGHT (BOOGIE CHILDREN)’ BY QUINTRON AND MISS PUSSYCAT ‘When these two play in the city it’s an event. Quintron is a mad scientist and Miss Pussycat

has an incredible creative vision to match. This town can get weird, and they are one of the beautiful things to come from all the strangeness.’

Benjamin’s album ‘Witness’ is out now on Rough Trade. He plays Manchester on 13 November and London on 14 November. For more dates see benjaminbookermusic.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: COSMO CONDINA/ROBERT HARDING IMAGES; ANDREW COTTERILL/CAMERA PRESS; DANITA DELIMONT STOCK/AWL-IMAGES.COM; JEN JUDGE

THE SOULFUL NOLA-BASED SINGER-SONGWRITER SHARES HIS CITY SOUNDTRACK

Born with a silver spoon in my ass painting, POA, Ashley Longshore (as before)

Namur bag, £700, Delvaux (delvaux.com)

Delphi dress, £387, Caroline Constas (net-aporter.com)

Green Almond & Redcurrant ceramic candle, £120, Jo Malone (jomalone.co.uk)

Coastal Cypress & Sea Fennel bath and shower gel, £20, Molton Brown (molton brown.co.uk)

Multi Effects mascara, £25.50, Estée Lauder (esteelauder. co.uk)

ASHLEY LONGSHORE

TAKE A MADCAP TOUR OF THE BIG EASY WITH THE COLOUR-SMACKING POP ARTIST WHOSE COLLECTORS INCLUDE BLAKE LIVELY AND SALMA HAYEK

Goatskin sandals, £1,045, Chanel (chanel. com)

‘New Orleans is a city where you come to see art, to listen to music, to eat food, to lose yourself in all the indulgences of the senses. I’ve lived here for 14 years and every time I arrive home it’s like the same feeling as when you see someone in your family after a long time. You know all their dirty secrets but you love them anyway. In New Orleans we celebrate life. Anyone can party on a Friday or Saturday, here we take the time to do it on Monday and Tuesday. The whole city is peppery like a spicy Bloody Mary. But each neighbourhood is so different; trying to tell you my favourite part would be like trying to tell you my favourite dish in an eight-course feast – I like them all together! In the French Quarter you can get in as much trouble as you want. Wander down Frenchmen Street for live jazz and swing dance – feel free to join in. Stroll through beautiful Bayou St John and explore the New Orleans Museum of Art, go to the West Bank and buy seafood. The Hot Tin bar on the rooftop of the historic Pontchartrain Hotel has the best views of the city and it’s where I like to drink a Ketel One Martini with a twist. Bacchanal is a wine bar in the Bywater with an amazing courtyard where they play live music all day and night.

My gallery is on Magazine Street, and I also love Antieau Gallery across the road. You’ll find unbelievable oyster plates by Oysteria at Mitch’s Flowers down the street and Raw Republic has incredible fresh juices as well as offering meditation, acupuncture and energy guidance upstairs. And if you need a custom spell made, go to local voodoo priestess Sallie Ann Glassman – she will make you a personal gris-gris bag.’

WHERE TO STAY: The historic Le Pavillon New Orleans is a short stroll from the French Quarter. Loved for its signature restaurant and rooftop pool, it also stocks Molton Brown Orange and Bergamot body wash and lotions in all the bathrooms. lepavillon.com

CARTAGENA Bag, £1,340, Marni (marni.com). Tassel sandals, £350, Carven (carven.com). Rose-gold World Time watch, £36,460, Patek Philippe (patel.com) Shoulder bag, £1,930, Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello (ysl.com)

ILSE CRAWFORD Trench coat, £920, Isa Arfen (matchesfashion. com). Comice Pear and Wild Honey hand cream, £10, Molton Brown (molton brown.co.uk)

‘My husband is Colombian, so we visit Cartagena every year and have done so for the past 18 years. The pace of life here is famously slow, and I love ambling around the old town early in the morning, buying coconut water, warm pan de bono (cheese bread) and arepas de huevo (egg-filled corn cakes) for breakfast. The Spanish colonial buildings are magical, and usually feature a planted central courtyard with cool rooms coming off it. Most are privately owned, but some have been turned into hotels, and the Santa Clara, housed in a former convent, is a beautiful place for a lemonade and some shade. My favourite antiques shop is El Arcón, which is filled with artefacts, from statues of saints to vintage furniture. Abaco is a bookshop crossed with a café and bar, the perfect combination. In the evening, the music starts – in houses, cars, buses and streets. For dinner, restaurant Don Juan is New York meets Caribbean cool, while La Vitrola is a Cartagena classic – ceviche and mero (a type of fish) are staples. The perfect way to end the day is to head to Donde Fidel, a corner bar that fills with wriggling salsa dancers. You won’t be able to resist joining in.’

Checked trousers, £210, Malene Birger (bymalene birger.com)

Stack Cross-Body bag, £795, Anya Hindmarch (anyahindmarch.com) Atmospheres wallpaper No.6209 and, right, No.6215, each £54 per roll, Ilse Crawford for Engblad & Co (eco.se)

Ciel scented candle, £78, Cire Trudon, available from November (trudon.com) 74 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

Maxi drawstring dress, £285, Wiggy Kit (wiggykit.com).

Istros room spray, £37, Aesop (aesop.com)

PHOTOGRAPHS: CROOKES & JACKSON; LESLIE WILLIAMSON

THE DESIGNER KNOWN FOR HER EFFORTLESSLY COOL INTERIORS IS DAZZLED BY COLOMBIA’S COLONIAL CITY

T R AVEL L ER PA RTN E R SH IP S

S

TOTALLY

TROPICAL A hidden jungle-meets-beach location, pool villas, a Sky Lounge to make the most of the sunsets and Gingerlily and Sandalwood Molton Brown amenities: there’s no doubting the holiday credentials of the fabulous The Naka Phuket in Thailand

'Gingerlily Bath & Shower Gel, Coco & Sandalwood Body Lotion and Indian Cress Shampoo & Conditioner are the final tropical flourishes to an environment designed for the ultimate relaxation.'

ometimes it’s necessary to get away. To really get away: to shut yourself off from the world and totally regenerate.

Heading down the mountain road that leads out to The Naka Phuket, walking into your private pool villa, it’s impossible not to feel as though you are doing just that. Behind, a blanket of jungle enfolds the resort; ahead lies the emerald-green bay. And all around you, cocooning you in a striking embrace of glass and teak, is your extraordinary space, with floor-to-ceiling windows framing 180-degree sea and hillside views. Whichever suite or villa you opt for, there’s no doubting why this is a member of Design Hotels. Lie in your bed in your elegant bedroom, overhanging six metres beyond the Kamala hillside, for a unique sleeping experience; pad around your private pool, its clear waters reflecting sea and sky; relax in your sitting area, complete with 46inch television: these are retreats designed to optimally integrate the elements of nature – water, sky, tree and earth – to create a sumptuously serene setting in which to revitalize your balance. Which is why it comes as no surprise to discover Molton Brown accessories in the bathrooms. In such palatial natural surroundings, what else but pampering amenities fit for royalty? As The Naka Phuket Manager points out, ‘We only want the best for our guests. The fact that Molton Brown holds a Royal Warrant for the supply of toiletries to her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II is very important to us.’ And so Gingerlily Bath & Shower Gel, Coco & Sandalwood Body Lotion and Indian Cress Shampoo & Conditioner are the final tropical flourishes to an environment designed for the ultimate relaxation. This, in essence, is a place to rediscover your zen – whether gazing out over the ocean from the Olympic-size infinity pool; sunbathing on golden sands; snorkelling the beautiful shoreline; dining to the sound of waves at The Wiwa or chilled Nana beach bar; or succumbing to the treats of the Napa Spa, complete with free-flowing water, contemporary design and stunning elevated views. Alternatively, days can be spent exploring the idyllic surroundings: taking a boat out to the Phi Phi or Similan Islands, or exploring the markets and culinary offerings of nearby Phuket Old Town, a UNESCO ‘City of Gastronomy’. Aftwer which, The Naka Phuket's Meka Sky Lounge is the only place to be, as the sun sets over the Andaman Coast – a blissful end to another blissful day.

Visit thenakaphuket.com and moltonbrown.com

Clockwise from top: the spa; reception; the view of the ocean from the pool at sundown. Centre: villa

'We only want the best quality for our guests: the fact that Molton Brown holds a Royal Warrant for the supply of toiletries to her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II is very important to us.'

ABU DHABI

Oudh Accord & Gold candle, £39, Molton Brown (moltonbrown.co.uk).

Knotted wool and cashmereblend turban, £155, Miu Miu (net-a-porter.com)

Santos rosewood backgammon board, £4,200, Alexandra Llewellyn London (alexandralldesign.com) Popova gold-plated earrings, £165, Annie Costello Brown (lyst. com). Super Soin Solaire Youth Protector SPF50+, £115, Sisley (sisley-paris.co.uk)

Moon sunglasses, £950, Dolce & Gabbana (exclusively at harrods. com). Blown-glass jellyfish paperweight, £24, Graham & Green (grahamandgreen.co.uk)

Ditch Plains fringed maxi dress, £330, Cynthia Rowley (cynthia rowley.com)

CYNTHIA ROWLEY Champagne wetsuit, £183, Cynthia Rowley (as before).

Sky-Dweller watch in stainless steel and gold, £12,600, Rolex (rolex.com)

‘The thing that strikes me most about Abu Dhabi is that everything is brand-spanking, sparklingly new. It’s almost as if a glass oasis sprung out of nowhere in a Bedouin desert. All the men look so composed in the summer heat, dressed in impeccably crisp white thawb and keffiyeh, and I’m always melting. Abu Dhabi is small, but what is most spectacular is the contrast between the gleaming architecture and the camels and sand; some of the oldest things in the world next to the newest. I have a real taste for dates – they are offered everywhere as a form of hospitality, along with luxurious cappuccinos topped with 24-carat-gold flakes. There are beaches along the shores of the Persian Gulf, and the water is as warm as a bath.

Dune bashing in the Al Khatim Desert is fun; it involves driving on Lawrence of Arabia-style dunes as fast as possible in Land Rovers. In Sabina suede heels, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, there are stunning inlaid tiles and patterned carpets that I find so inspiring. Modesty is of the utmost £595, Tabitha Simmons (tabitha importance, so I bring long skirts and sarongs that can double up as simmons.com) headscarves. Light, pretty cotton dresses are the perfect wardrobe staple. Finish the day at the edge of the gulf with the Grand Mosque on the other side, the white marble changing colour in the light.’

76 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

WHERE TO STAY: On a previously uninhabited island off the coast of Abu Dhabi, Zaya Nurai has a beautiful spa, with yoga classes on the water’s edge, and Molton Brown’s White Sandalwood body wash and lotions in all its suites. zayanuraiisland.com

Serpenti Forever bag, £1,990, Bulgari x Nicholas Kirkwood (net-a-porter.com)

PHOTOGRAPHS: KISHA BARI; SIMON STOCK/GALLERYSTOCK

ARABIAN DAYS AND NIGHTS WITH THE CHAMPION OF SLICK SURF AND SWIMWEAR

THE MOST EXCLUSIVE ALL-INCLUSIVE. EVER. NEW RESORT OPENING DECEMBER ‘17

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PLUS THE LAUNCH OF SANDALS ROYAL BARBADOS MEANS THE LAUNCH OF MANY FIRSTS, INCLUDING: • Sandals First Rooftop Pool & Restaurant • Sandals First Glass Infinity Pool • Sandals First Bowling Alley – Lovers Lanes • Sandals First Gentlemen’s Only Barber Shop – The Clip Yard

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COME IN-STORE TO SEE OUR SANDALS SPECIALISTS MAKE AN APPOINTMENT AT WWW.SANDALS.CO.UK/STORE ALTERNATIVELY, CALL 0800 742 742 VISIT SANDALS.CO.UK OR SEE YOUR LOCAL TRAVEL AGENT

CROATIA Neon fruit charm, £530, Fendi (fendi.com). Draycott sunglasses, £175, Finlay & Co (finlayandco. com). Calf-leather tote, £1,150, Delpozo (+44 20 7881 0950)

Fringed Graham sweater, £325, Zoë Jordan (zoe-jordan.com). Striped cotton dress, £230, Dodo Bar Or (net-a-porter.com)

EDDIE HARROP THE TRAVEL-BAG GO-GETTER ON THE BEST WAY TO ISLAND HOP AROUND THE ADRIATIC

Tricolor embroidered sweater, £770, Delpozo (as before). Halterneck jumpsuit, £365, Beulah London (beulah london.com)

‘Croatia was my grandfather’s favourite destination. He used to visit in the 1950s and would drive all the way from Ireland in his Morris Minor.

It’s such a romantic place, and one of my fondest memories is of riding on a motorbike through lavender fields in Hvar with my now husband. In Hvar Town there’s a health-food shop, the Green House, that I’m always going back to for its home-produced olive oil and beauty products made using natural extracts. Mondi Kantun sells fashion accessories by Croatian artisans – I especially like the chunky gem-stone bracelets by Ivana Bacura.

Obonjan island, which is about a mile long, is also very special. Its focus is on wellness, and there are bell tents to stay in, so you feel really close to nature. There are yoga retreats, secluded coves where you can swim, great cocktails at Drift bar and DJs play beside the harbour. I always think the crystal-clear Adriatic Sea against rough island vegetation has an air of Jurassic Park. Ciganka Beach, on Rab island, has some fantastic inlets and the clearest water I’ve ever swum in. I love it when you sail into a port, ready for some delicious fresh fish, the boat engine is turned off and you can hear the wind against the sails. There’s a smell of squeezed lemons and that fuzzy feeling you get when the rakija (fruit liqueur) hits you.

Pojoda, on Vis island, is my go-to restaurant for seafood. Its menu varies on what’s been caught that day. I’ll sit out under the orange trees on the garden terrace as they make delicious pojorski bronzinic, a local squid dish. But I’m also one for staying on the boat, putting the anchor down in some stunning bay, and passing around salty nuts and big-ice-cubed gin and tonics.’

Bikini top, £110, and bottom, £110, Vix Paula Hermanny (harveynichols. com). Coastal Cypress & Sea Fennel bath & shower gel, £20, Molton Brown (moltonbrown.com) 78 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

Striped holdall, £595, Eddie Harrop (net-aporter.com). Ahoi Neomatic watch, £2,990, NOMOS Glashütte (nomos-store.com) WHERE TO STAY: Brown Beach House, pictured above left, on the Dalmatian coast, has a Mediterranean-inspired interior, a divine spa, and Molton Brown Coastal Cypress & Sea Fennel body wash and Coco & Sandalwood body lotion in all Superior rooms. brownhotels.com/croatia

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S

noozing a few doors down from the President of the United States is always going to be a heady experience. You can almost feel the machinations of the incumbent as he inuences world affairs. Yet on the power street of Pennsylvania Avenue, in the heart of Washington D.C., there is also an undeniable sense of the past: just steps away lies the historic Georgetown neighbourhood, older than the city itself.

And here, in the heart of the action, is Melrose Georgetown Hotel: a hotel that perfectly encapsulates its juxtaposition between past and present. A charming façade contrasts with a strikingly contemporary reception area.

Guestrooms and suites combine inherently traditional charm and historic art with sleek lines; soft neutral tones highlighted by lime green accents; and unabashedly 21st-century touches: think plush Serta pillow-top beds, down duvets, 37’’ or 42’’ at-screen TVs, and Molton Brown amenities. It’s an obvious choice for the Melrose Georgetown: both are unique in origin, steeped in tradition, yet grasp onto the future with modern zest and appeal. Choose from the Hotel Dreams Menu of pillows and sleep masks, succumb to the refreshing sensation of a shower using Molton Brown Coastal Cypress & Sea Fennel Bath & Shower Gel and then douse yourself in Molton Brown Pink Peppercorn Body Lotion. As you slide off into the most hedonistic of slumbers you cannot help but

POWER

TRIP /X[XU\ WUDYHO LV PRUH WKDQ D ÂżYH VWDU KRWHO ,W LV RQH ZLWK D IDEXORXV VHWWLQJ DERYH DQG EH\RQG VHUYLFH RU VHQVDWLRQDO JXHVWURRP WRXFKHV 2U RQH WKDW KDV DOO WKUHH 0HOURVH *HRUJHWRZQ +RWHO :DVKLQJWRQ ' &

wonder if your high-brow neighbour gets such spoiling treatment.

Clockwise from top: the library; Deluxe King Room with Pennsylvania Avenue view; the patio. Centre: the hotel lounge

Waking up, the spoiling continues on unabated.

The Lounge, a trendy Washington D.C. hotspot, serves a range of signature cocktails overlooking the outdoor patio and Pennsylvania Avenue. The fabulous restaurant, Jardenea, features a ‘Farm to Fork’ concept. It is centred round health and wellbeing, utilising fresh ingredients sourced from sustainable farms in the surrounding foothills of Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia to create globally inuenced dishes that change with the seasons. And as for how to spend your time here, with everything from historic houses and museums to the futuristic Kennedy Center, the Theatre District to Georgetown’s gorgeous shops, boutiques and restaurants clustered along the Potomac Riverfront (also perfect for a Jardenea picnic-to-go) there is no denying that the attractions here are, quite literally, capital.

Visit melrosehoteldc.com and moltonbrown.com

Top tip 'The Molton Brown Collections mirror the Melrose Georgetown Hotel’s ethos. Both are unique in origin, steeped in tradition, yet grasp onto the future with modern zest and appeal.'

Grab a gourmet picnic basket to go from Chef Nelson Erazo of Jardenea Restaurant, located inside the Melrose Georgetown Hotel, and sit by the Potomac River under the cherry trees‌

PARIS Satin and suede sandals, £530, Alexandre Birman (harvey nichols.com)

Velvet blazer, £2,390, Hermès (as before) Folly Dizzy midi dress, £2,950, Zimmermann (zimmermann wear.com)

Bourget MM trolley, POA, Goyard (goyard.com) Original vetiver shaving bowl, £55, Creed (creed fragrances.co.uk)

80 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

Gingerlily single-wick candle, £36, Molton Brown (moltonbrown. co.uk)

PHOTOGRAPHS: COVETEUR/TRUNK ARCHIVE; KATE HOLSTEIN

Velvet trousers, £460, Hermès (hermes.com)

Felt-wool trilby, £135, Paul Smith (paul smith.com)

Folly uniform blazer, £1,300, Zimmermann (as before)

Alpaca and wool check coat, £3,980, Brunello Cucinelli (brunello cucinelli.com)

JUSTIN O’SHEA & VERONIKA HEILBRUNNER

Hydra Beauty Flash Balm, £45, Chanel (chanel.com)

EUROPE’S MOST STREET-STYLE-SNAPPED COUPLE GO UNDER COVER IN THE FASHION CAPITAL

Small pixie bag, £1,055, Chloé (chloe.com)

JUSTIN ‘Having grown up a typical Australian bogan, the sheer beauty and grandeur of Paris blows my mind every time I arrive. I have probably spent more days in the city in the last 10 years than I have in my own home in Berlin. Lunch is always at L’Avenue. In 45 minutes here I can see the who’s who of the fashion world – lots of secret meetings, although it’s the least secretive spot of all time – and get a great insight into what people are buying. For drinks, there is only one place: the Hemingway Bar, with my good friend Colin Field behind the counter. I started going to the Ritz in my early days of working in Paris and despite being a tattooed young guy in a tank top, Colin always welcomed me. I consequently drank enough French 75s to fund the hotel’s renovation. Then there is dinner: Caviar Kaspia.

It’s a super-chic restaurant, but the vibe is totally family. Some of my most enjoyable, and wildest, evenings have happened in this city.’

VERONIKA ‘I stock up on hair treatments at the salon of cult stylist CHRISTOPHE ROBIN on rue Bachaumont. He does the most amazing shampoo,

conditioning sprays and masks – I particularly love the prickly-pear-seed ones.’

Leather-lace boots, £1,800, Dior (dior.com)

‘There are so many beautiful antiques shops in ST GERMAIN around L’Ecole des Beaux-Arts and rue de L’Université. Most of them are very expensive, but just browsing gives me a lot of inspiration. While you’re there, pop into Dries Van Noten on quai Malaquais and the Acne Studios store nearby is great too.’

‘If you have a full day to spend shopping, then it has to be the flea market on PORTE DE CLIGNANCOURT. I always get lost and don’t find my way back out for ages. But when I do, I’ve ended up buying so many little things.’

‘CHARVET on Place Vendôme is the place for silk robes and suede slippers.’

‘When I want to relax, I spend an hour or two pottering around the shops in the JARDIN DU PALAIS-ROYAL. I grab a matcha latte at Café Kitsuné and always peek in the window of my favourite restaurant, Le Grand Véfour.’

WHERE TO STAY: Serving delicious food on the terrace bar, Hotel Edgar is known for its Sixties-style rooms stocked with zingy Molton Brown products. edgarparis.com

Printed raincoat, £1,700, Dior Homme (dior.com)

MALLORCA Straw heart-shaped cap, £580, Gucci (gucci.com).

Left, floral headpiece, £1,170, Marni (marni.com)

MONICA VINADER THE FINE JEWELLERY DESIGNER KNOWS WHERE TO FIND THE QUIETEST COVES AND BEST SEAFOOD ‘I am originally from Spain, so I have a special connection to the country. I love the simple aesthetic of life and the local sites that are steeped in religious, artistic and design history. My favourite place to stay is Mallorca’s Tramuntana mountains, where you experience the beauty of both the land and sea. Here you’ll find the Santuari de Lluc monastery, which is just breathtaking and definitely a must-see, as is the town of Fornalutx. Palma is also special. I particularly like the Gothic cathedral, the Palacio de la Almudaina and the vaulted ceilings of Sa Llotja. The Real Cartuja, in Valldemossa, is also amazing – it’s where George Sand penned her autobiographical travel novel, A Winter in Majorca. We often rent a RIB and head for quiet coves. My special route is starting at the port of Cala Ratjada, then heading north toward Cap Farrutx, to the turquoise waters of S’Arenalet d’Aubarca. The seafood at Ca’s Patro March, near Deià, is like no other. It’s right on the waterfront, so you can step straight off your boat or drive there down a winding road. Book ahead, and order gambas de Soller and pimientos del padron. The nearby Sa Foradada serves the best paella and has some of the finest views, and Cala Tuent, a little bay where the mountains and sea collide, is the place for the most beautiful sunsets.’

Linen college bag, £1,540, Saint Laurent

by Anthony Vaccarello (ysl.com)

L AURA JACKSON

Goldstone sunglasses, £392, Oliver Peoples and The Row (oliverpeoples.com)

SOLLER MARKET ‘The town isn’t really known for its shopping, but on Saturdays it comes to life when crowds and traders fill the main square.’

ES BALUARD, PALMA ‘This is one of the finest museums on the island. It has a great collection of works, from Picasso to Francesco Clemente.’

SA VINYA, DEIA ‘I Iove sitting on the terrace of this restaurant, drinking Aperol spritzes and talking with friends until the sun sets.’

SA FONDA, DEIA ‘This lively little bar seems to be the hub of the village, and if they have live music, expect to get on your feet and dance.’

TABERNA DE LA BOVEDA, PALMA ‘For the best tapas, to be enjoyed with a delicious glass of Spanish red wine while watching the world go by.’ jacksonandlevine.com

82 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

Rose-gold vermeil and diamond friendship bracelet, £395, Monica Vinader (monicavinader.com)

Tulle dress, £1,490, Chloe (chloe.com)

Silk crepe trousers, £865, Agnona (agnona.com)

Sandals, £415, Valentino Garavani (valentino.com) Comice Pear & Wild Honey hand wash, £18, Molton Brown (molton brown.co.uk)

Grey-agate and silver Siren pendant, £105, Monica Vinader (as before)

Gold-plated turtle paperweight, £275, El Casco (exclusive to libertylondon.com)

WHERE TO STAY: The Nakar Hotel, which has a stunning rooftop terrace and infinity pool overlooking the Bay of Palma, stocks Molton Brown’s Spicy Pink Pepperpod body wash and body lotion in all its bathrooms. nakarhotel.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: CROOKES & JACKSON; KAYT WEBSTER-BROWN

ISLAND HOTSPOTS FROM THE SUPPER-CLUB FOUNDER AND TV PRESENTER

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ountains. Sometimes moody, as clouds throw dark shadows across their valleys; sometimes melodramatic, as storms whip up a maelstrom above their granite slopes; sometimes magical, as the sun’s rays break through, lighting up their craggy peaks. But always magnificent – and even more so when viewed from the bastion of your private balcony or, even better, the snug comfort of your bed.

A rare privilege? Not when you can boast one of the most beautiful locations in the world. And the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa can certainly do that. Located in the Bernese Oberland, between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz, this gloriously Swiss hotel is framed by the most unequivocally magnificent mountain backdrops in the country.

For over 150 years people have headed here from all over the world to wonder at – and wander among – the beauty of the Bernese Oberland.

To wake up to those Jungfrau massif vistas, framed by the hotel’s huge windows. To head out into them: taking the train to Jungfraujoch for breathtaking views of the Aletsch glacier, or to the Schynige Platte to dip into a world of unique flowers and traditional Swiss culture; wandering among picturesque Alpine villages; walking in the footsteps of Bond on the 2970m Schilthorn, and standing in the world-famous Piz Gloria revolving restaurant with its 360° panorama across the Jungfrau and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Then, come evening, returning to dine among the gilded mirrors, stucco and crystal that hint at the hotel’s Belle Epoque history, while surrounded by glorious landscapes in the glass-fronted La Terrasse restaurant.

In essence, they’ve come to experience the holistic properties of nature that are omnipresent throughout the Victoria Junfrau experience –

NATURAL

HIGHS Whether you’re soaking up glorious mountain vistas or soaking in sumptuous Molton Brown bathroom products, there is no doubting the natural healing powers of the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa

Clockwise from top: the spa; La Terrasse; paragliding over the hotel. Centre: the view of the mountains at lunch

properties that encompass everything from those magnificent mountains visible through the windows to the seasonally changing Molton Brown amenities in the bathrooms. Spend a day hiking the former and you will revel in the soothing powers of the latter, as the YlangYlang Body Wash and Body Lotion relaxes the body and the Orange & Bergamot Hand Wash reawakens senses cleared by the pure Alpine air.

Indeed, it was this shared reverence of nature that meant the Victoria Jungfrau was one of the first hotels in Switzerland to feature Molton Brown. Thanks to that reverence, however you choose to spend your time here at the ‘Top of Europe’ it’s impossible not to feel on top of the world. Visit victoria-jungfrau.ch and moltonbrown.com

'Spend a day hiking the former and you will revel in the healing powers of the latter, as the Ylang-Ylang Body Wash and Body Lotion relaxes the body and the Orange & Bergamot Hand Wash reawakens senses cleared by the pure Alpine air.'

TOKYO Mooney cotton throw, £250, Slowdown Studio (libertylondoncom)

Bubble mini dress, £960, Isa Arfen (modaoperandi.com)

RIL A FUKUSHIMA THE STAR OF ‘GHOST IN THE SHELL’ AND ‘THE WOLVERINE’ ON HER HOMETOWN HIGHLIGHTS FOOD ‘Japan has a deep-rooted culture of sunakku (snack bars). These are cosy joints run by a mama-san (a female owner usually in her 60s or 70s), where they serve alcohol, light munchies and sometimes have karaoke. My favourite is in Ebisu – I go to hang out with friends. I always feel nostalgic about the streets full of tiny bars and cafés – in particular Golden Gai in Shinjuku

84 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

and Nonbei Yokocho in Shibuya.

They are in the old drinking district, down crowded narrow alleys.’

HEALTH ‘I love working out. I do weight training, Gyrokinesis and Pilates at a studio in Aoyama. Outside Tokyo, I go to an onsen (hot spring) – Kyoto has some great ones. I just soak in the water and let go of everything.’

CULTURE ‘I think most people are familiar with symbolic Japanese culture: the shinkansen bullet train, samurai and geisha. I feel it is not the external uniqueness of a geisha’s white face, but rather her quiet politeness and thoughtfulness that represent our fascinating culture. The power of Japan and its people comes from the tradition of perseverance, patience, curiosity and creativity.’

PHOTOGRAPHS: GREGORY HARRIS/TRUNK ARCHIVE; BILL PHELPS

Playing cards, POA, Rose Uniacke (rose uniacke.com)

Beaded velvet pouch, £375, Simone Rocha (simonerocha.com)

Beaded patchwork dress, £1,795, Simone Rocha (as before)

Santorini swimsuit in silver, £230, Prism (prism london.com)

SIMONE ROCHA WHERE THE FLOWER-LOVING STYLE-SETTER GOES SHOPPING IN THE JAPANESE CAPITAL

Hot Lips perspex bag, £1,195, Charlotte Olympia (charlotte olympia.com)

La Tulipe eau de parfum, £95 for 50ml, Byredo (libertylondon.com)

‘Tokyo has been a special place to me ever since Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation film. The first time I visited I found it so alien and exciting not knowing the language and navigating the city.

My recent trip was during the cherry-blossom season, and it was so beautiful. I love the energy, the sounds, the food, the electricity in the air, the uniforms, the people, the lacy taxis and the little side streets with old shop fronts. In Minato, Sahsya Kanetanaka serves the most beautifully prepared food on one long table in a very elegant and simple room, while Shibuya has many hole-in-the-wall restaurants for beers and yakitori (grilled-chicken skewers). Aoyama has wonderful stores, quiet roads and the very special Nezu Museum, set in a garden with a glass-box café. The Prada building designed by Herzog & de Meuron is mind-blowing, as is the Comme des Garçons store. Dover Street Market Ginza, where my collection is stocked, has the delicious Rose Bakery on the top floor. You can find brilliant functional household pieces in Tokyu Hands; I like to bring back Japanese knives from Aritsugu, and retro textiles, pottery and ceramics from the markets.

Daikanyama Tsutaya Books is a good spot to pick up new and vintage photo books. I’ve been influenced by the work of Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki for a long time. The use of kinbaku (Japanese bondage) inspired a lot of the wrapping and tying techniques in my last collection, which also featured floral prints and motifs reminiscent of kimonos.’

Salsa Deluxe Multiwheel case, £470, Rimowa (rimowa.com)

Skin Perfecting Cream, £72, Dr Sebagh (drsebagh.com)

Work It velvet trainers, £295, Charlotte Olympia (as before)

Heart-shaped cap with crystals, £5,030, Gucci (gucci.com)

Dahlia sunglasses in blue, £335, Jimmy Choo (net-a-porter.com).

Goldea, The Roman Night eau de parfum, £45 for 30ml, Bulgari (harvey nichols.com)

ROME

Bead flower earrings, £390, Erdem (+44 20 3653 0360)

Silk pyjamas bottoms, £725, Gucci (browns fashion.com)

BELL A HADID ITALIAN FEASTING AND FLEA-MARKET FINDS WITH THE SUPERMODEL OF THE MOMENT

Tao quilted-velvet coat, £1,425, Isabel Marant (brownsfashion. com). Claudine crepe wrap dress, £945, Vilshenko (boutiquel.com)

‘The best way to see Rome is to walk. Every time I go I’m amazed by the beauty of the city – the architecture, the timeless grandeur – and also by all the hidden places to be discovered: the incredible Angelica Library or the gardens of Villa Borghese filled with rare and exotic flowers. Just by walking around you get a real sense of Rome, smell the warm, fresh-from-the-oven aromas of a bakery or the rich handmade leather of a local craftsman. I love getting lost in the tiny streets eating gelato with my friends. One of my favourite markets is the Mercato Monti, which sells vintage clothing and unique one-off pieces. In fact, there are so many brilliant little shops in the Monti area if you are looking for young, up-and-coming designers. Rome is a food-lover’s paradise: for traditional Italian dishes, Dal Bolognese is a classically chic spot in front of Piazza del Popolo, one of the most gorgeous squares in the world. Campo de’ Fiori is great for late-night shopping and an evening walk. For drinks, I head to the garden at Palazzo Dama, a lovely green space in the middle of the city. I really connect with the Roman culture: it’s relaxed and positive and full of emotions; a true way of life.’

Diorskin Forever Foundation, £35, Dior (dior.com)

Bella Hadid is the face of Bulgari’s fragrance, Goldea, The Roman Night Powermatte lipstick in Light My Fire, £23, NARS (nars cosmetics.com)

Velvet cross-body bag, £725, Stella McCartney (stellamccartney.com)

WHERE TO STAY: Cleansing Ylang Ylang body wash and lotions can be found in every room of the Margutta 19, a hotel set in a beautiful palazzo a stone’s throw from the Spanish Steps, with a Michelin-starred restaurant that reinvents regional classics. romeluxurysuites.com

Delicious Rhubarb & Rose bath & shower gel, £20, Molton Brown (moltonbrown.com)

Navy wrap bandeau top, £95; bottoms, £85, both Asceno (asceno.com)

Harper leather ankle boots, £775, Chloé (net-a-porter. com)

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide 87

INDIA

Indian Cress purifying shampoo, £18, and Indian Cress purifying conditioner, £18, both Molton Brown (moltonbrown.com)

RAE FEATHER ON JAIPUR HOW ITS STREET SCENE INSPIRES THE ACCESSORIES WHIZZ

KARISHMA SHAHANI KHAN ON SIKKIM HEAD NORTH-EAST WITH THE KA-SHA FOUNDER WALK ‘Around the city of Gangtok there’s the most delicious food at places such as Taste Of Tibet. Or wander through the markets shopping for clothing, both traditional and new age – it’s a very fashionforward city.’

TREK ‘The Goecha La is the classic route with the backdrop of Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world.’

DRIVE ‘With such jaw-dropping landscapes, even driving through Sikkim is a joy, full of natural wonders such as the Teesta River, which flows and peeks through all the twists and turns in the mountains.’

MEDITATE ‘The area is dotted with monasteries.

My favourites are Rumtek and Enchey. Spend some time listening to the chanting – it transports you.

I find it very calming and meditative.’

SEE ‘The Yumthang Valley. Sikkim is famous for its flowers and this beautiful spot is a nature sanctuary that blooms in a kaleidoscope of colours.’

88 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

Maxi dress, £226, Ka-Sha (pernias popupshop.com). Moss agate ring, £595, Astley Clarke (astleyclarke. com). White Amber eau de parfum, £320 for 75ml, Creed (creedfragrances.co.uk)

PHOTOGRAPHS: SARA DALANEY/NOTES FROMASTYLIST.COM; GRANT FAINT/OFFSET BY SHUTTERSTOCK; JOSE RODRIGUES

Rafia leather clutch, £144, Rae Feather (raefeather.com).

Acetate sunglasses, £408, Thierry Lasry (modaoperandi.com)

‘When I think of Jaipur I think of all those bright colours that evoke feelings of happiness. The market place has a million different stories going on – the smell of spices, the stallholders, cows and goats wandering around, hundreds of bikes, horse-drawn carts with vegetables, taxis, lorries – it’s mind-blowing. Amber Fort is incredible and Suraj Pole, the sun-facing entrance, blends Hindu and Mughal architecture. I always visit the sari shops – I have a collection of vintage saris that I plan to do something with one day, though I’ve made a few into kaftans. I also buy cotton kurtas. Verandah Café is a casual restaurant in the gardens of the Rambagh Palace and is so serene. You get amazing views of the Hawa Mahal at the Wind View Café, and The Kitchen at Jaipur Modern has a cool vibe with bohemian decor. The best thing is getting lost in the city and soaking up the culture. Ashiana restaurant overlooks the Nehru Bazaar and I recommend arriving in time for sunset. To escape for the weekend, Ranthambore National Park is home to the Royal Bengal Tiger reserve – stay at the Oberoi Vanyavilas close by.’

Rose-gold earrings, £3,186, Jane Taylor (moda operandi.com). Les Belles Matières Madurai candle, £78, Cire Trudon (trudon.com).

Jacquard trousers, £565, Stella McCartney (stella mccartney.com)

Jacquard top, £1,350, Mary Katrantzou (marykatrantzou.com).

Leather belt, £270, Maison Vaincourt (modaoperandi.com).

Denim romper, £384, Alexis (modaoperandi.com)

JASMINE HEMSLEY ON JODHPUR THE WELLNESS CHEF HAS A TASTE FOR THE BLUE CITY ‘Winding roads from every direction take you 125 metres up to MEHRANGARH FORT for stunning views overlooking the brilliant blue city. The museum in the fort includes a collection of costumes and miniature paintings, and I love the intricate carvings and the decorated period rooms, mixing Indian style over the centuries with relics from all over the world.’

‘Get out of the midday sun with a stop at SHRI MISHRILAL HOTEL for refreshments. This little place is famous for its makhaniya lassi – a fragrant, tangy, rich and refreshing drink made from buttermilk, nuts, saffron, cardamom, fragrant oils and topped up with an extra serving of whipped butter. A kachori, a fried snack more popular than a samosa in the Rajasthan area, filled with chilli-spiced mung beans makes the perfect accompaniment.’

‘BAGHEERA’S CAMP, in the Jawai Bandh Leopard Conservation Reserve, is the vision of Maharaj Rajkumar Rajendra Singh. Along with his daughter Princess Padmaja (who I was lucky enough to have tea with on my visit), he oversees and protects a large habitat with leopards as well as other wild cats and chinkara (Indian gazelle). The camp offers volunteer programmes alongside wildlife studies and also hosts guests interested in animal watching.’

Leather Lennox bag, £349, Ralph Lauren (ralphlauren.co.uk).

Ikat bamboo blue rug, from £520 per square metre, The Rug Company (therugcompany.com)

‘For a taste of the Rajasthan region that you can recreate at home, visit the aptly named INCREDIBLE KRISHNA COOKING WORKSHOP where I brushed up on some classic cooking techniques for my new Ayurveda-inspired cookbook, East By West. In just a few hours you’re making – and tucking into – pakoras, dals, rotis, lassis and curries in the home of the wonderful Rekha and her husband Rishi.’

‘All the above was made possible by Shanane and Gajendra at GAJENDRA SHANANE BY ROYAL APPOINTMENT, who took us on a tour in their classic Ambassador car. Over the past seven years, Shanane and Gajendra have been on a mission to preserve and revive the distinctive, time-intensive arts of courtly India.

They design and collect pieces so rare and skilled, including shawls that take four years to make, I was in awe of the craftmanship.’ gajendrashanane.com ‘East By West: Simple Ayurvedic Recipes For Ultimate Mind-Body Balance’

by Jasmine Hemsley (Bluebird, £25) is out on 2 November

Velvet mules, £276, Le Monde Beryl (modaoperandi.com)

BANGKOK

Signature pavéline necklace £11,900, Tamara Comolli (tamara comolli.com)

Patchwork shirt, £375, Comme des Garçons (browns fashion.com)

Velvet mules, £475, No. 21 (harvey nichols.com)

BILL BENSLEY INSIDER ADDRESSES FROM THE MAN WHO’S DESIGNED HOTELS IN OVER 30 COUNTRIES

TAMARA COMOLLI THE JEWELLER GIVES HER TIPS FOR THE THAI CAPITAL BAAN KLANG NAM ‘This restaurant in a stilted house on the Chao Phraya River is very authentic – my gem suppliers took me here for seafood. I also love the laab gai salad with chicken. Perfect with a cold beer.’

THE VERANDAH AT THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL ‘This hotel is my favourite place to stay in the city and the restaurant overlooking the water is a peaceful lunch spot after the spa.’

WAT PHO THAI MASSAGE SCHOOL ‘For amazing and cheap traditional massages you can’t beat it – especially after a long flight.’

RED SKY BAR ‘Head to this hotspot atop the Centara Grand hotel for sundowners with incredible views over the skyline.’

HUA HIN ‘To escape the city, take a trip to this beach town just two hours away and have lunch on one of the wooden piers over the sea.’

90 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

Crochet-sleeve jumper, £650, JW Anderson (brownsfashion. com)

Dewy Lily of the Valley three-wick candle, £55, Molton Brown (molton brown.co.uk)

Embroidered trousers, £325, Paul Smith (paulsmith.com) Paisley flower bracelet in leather, diamond and rose gold, £1,275, Tamara Comolli (as before)

Bulldog seaside rapids swim shorts, £255, Orlebar Brown (browns fashion.com) Superstar sneakers, £310, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand (brownsfashion. com)

Art tub chair, POA, Rosie Uniacke (rose uniacke.com)

PHOTOGRAPHS: BENSLEY; WISON TUNGTHHUNYA

Multicolour cotton dress, £8,600, Dior (dior.com).

Origami paper, £95, Hermès (hermes.com)

‘I first came to Bangkok in 1984. Back then the city had more trees than canals and I remember potent aromas of jasmine and incense offerings on almost every corner – it was all so exotic. I learnt the language, married a local and became one in the blink of an eye. What really sticks in my mind are the flower markets at Pak Klong Talad, the old cinemas, the street food, and the big, beautiful homes behind high walls. And you know what?

They are all still here, alive and making whoopee. Today, our design studio is near the happening neighbourhood of Soi Thong Lor. I love the restaurant Bo.Lan for wonderfully resurrected classic Thai recipes. Nearby, Quince is another favourite – with damn nice food and a pretty yard, perfect for my four Jack Russells. It’s next to a great little interiors boutique, Casa Pagoda, and I like the textile art by Mook Vinyaratn in her Beyond Living atelier. My friend Shane Suvikapokornkul has just opened a mega-bookstore, Open House, which stocks unusual titles. And Chatuchak is still the king of markets, not just in Bangkok but the world. I go at least once a month as the fabric of the bazaar changes constantly.

On Wednesdays and Thursdays it turns into the most exotic plant market you have ever seen.’

ST PETERSBURG

Cotton mosaic scarf, £115, Anderson & Sheppard (anderson-sheppard. co.uk). Knize Ten eau de toilette, £60 for 50ml, Knize (lessenteurs.com)

MANOLO BL AHNIK THE MASTER SHOEMAKER WHO HAS MORE THAN 25,000 PAIRS AT HOME MARVELS AT THE RUSSIAN SIGHTS

Bello shoes, £695, Manolo Blahnik (manoloblahnik.com)

‘I feel a deep connection to St Petersburg purely because of its literature and history. I adore Catherine the Great and Pushkin, so when I am here it feels as if I am being immersed into their worlds. Spring is the best time to visit, when everything is coming back to life after a bleak winter. Once you go past all the Stalinist buildings in the suburbs and arrive in the city, it’s like being in old-world Russia, with the smell of roasted chestnuts in the streets. On my last trip, I discovered the Catherine Palace in Tsarskoe Selo, which was her summer residence. And the Yusupov Palace is unlike anything I have ever seen – even the bathroom is unbelievably stunning. I had a choir perform for me in one of the grand rooms and was moved to tears. I’m now desperate to see the controversial film Matilda, out this month, about ballet dancer Mathilde Kschessinska, who was the mistress of Tsar Nicholas II. I also like the Pushkin Museum, which is in the house where he lived and died after being shot in a duel. The whole area around the Hermitage Museum is an overload for the senses. The canals, those monumental statues, the colours of the walls. I always like to cross the river at the end of the day, when the sunlight hits the Hermitage – it just looks magnificent. I’m not much of a restaurant person, but I was invited to Cococo. It serves really interesting traditional Russian food, very deconstructed yet impressive. And for something to take home, seek out beautiful amber made by the most talented artisans. I love seeing people whose life is dedicated to a craft.’

Stripy woven bow tie, £95; Plantation straw hat, £95; large spotty pocket square, £20, all Anderson & Sheppard (as before).

Socks, £17, Paul Smith (paulsmith.com)

Glasses, £295, Cutler and Gross (cutlerandgross.com). Giant matchstick holder in pony skin, £155, William & Son x Giobagnara (williamandson.com) Burlington holdall, £1,395, Smythson (smythson.com)

92 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

Russian Leather bath & shower gel, £20, Molton Brown (moltonbrown.co.uk)

PHOTOGRAPHS: JOSEF HOFLEHNER; HYWEL JONES/LICKERISH

The ‘Manolo Blahnik: The Art of Shoes’ exhibition can be seen at Museum Kampa, Prague, until 12 November 2017

SAIL OF THE CENTURY

GET ON BOARD THE YACHT TREND WITH THE SLEEKEST PIECES. BY JESSICA DIAMOND

TRULY, MADLY, DEEPLY A SPARKLING NEW COLLECTION DROPS ANCHOR ON THE FRENCH RIVIERA Chanel is rather good at buying back its heritage: see Mademoiselle’s Paris apartment at 31 rue Cambon and La Pausa, her Thirties villa in Provence that the maison reacquired in 2015. Her links to the South of France were deep-rooted; it was here that she first met the Duke of Westminster on his yacht, The Flying Cloud, and where her love of all things maritime – gold sailors’ buttons and the anchor motif – was piqued. How brilliant then if the boat could be traced, but after extensive research by Chanel archivists the trail has gone cold. By way of consolation, a high jewellery collection pays homage to the vessel and the vibe: endless summer days lounging on teak in Breton jersey. This anchor brooch, one of the 62 pieces, would be the perfect accent.

94 Condé Nast Traveller Holiday Style Guide November 2017

Yachting Day brooch in white gold and diamonds, POA, Chanel High Jewellery (chanel.com)

PHOTOGRAPH: ROLEX/KURT ARRIGO

Yacht-Master II 44mm stainless steel, £13,700, Rolex (rolex.com)

It’s a first world problem, yes, but how do you get your yacht back across the Atlantic after wintering in the Caribbean? Two solutions: you either crane it into a cargo ship, or hire a couple of seasoned sailors who’ll safely charter it back for you. Weather permitting, it will take a couple of weeks, but it’s not always plain sailing – adverse conditions and busy shipping lanes require an eagle-eyed crew, and at times sleep is not an option. Apparently one favoured method that ensures they stay alert for several days is to knock back an espresso, power nap for 10 minutes, and then awake refreshed when the caffeine kicks in, before pressing on ad infinitum until they sight land. And would the crew need a watch if they were undertaking this extreme form of delivery? Probably not, as luxury personal touches are not top of the priority list when you’re bobbing around on a piece of 100ft fibreglass in the middle of the ocean. But watches and sailing do have a long history together. In the case of Rolex, it’s an association that dates back to the 1950s, and the brand’s first timepiece designed specifically for yacht racing launched in 2007. The Yacht-Master II is this year’s reinvention and it retains the exclusive-to-Rolex function that allows you to sync your watch to the crucial countdown starting sequence at the beginning of a regatta – the idea being that you cross the starting line at full speed at exactly the moment the race commences. It sounds complicated, but it isn’t, and whether you use this mechanism or not, the handsome proportions and nautical colour palette of the Yacht-Master II will look good on both seafarers and land-lubbers alike.

TRENDWATCH IN SEARCH OF SILENCE SOLO EXPLORER ERLING KAGGE PONDERS HOW THE CULT OF QUIET HAS BECOME BIG NOISE

PHOTOGRAPH: RICHARD PHIBBS

One summer I flew 18 hours from Oslo to Sri Lanka in order to relax, eat well and practise yoga in peaceful surroundings. It was fabulous.

At the same time, it felt strange to travel halfway around the globe to disconnect. I am aware that centres for silence are a growing industry, and they are popping up everywhere. In Jutland, Denmark, there’s a sound-proofed hall with double doors. People gather here regularly to sit cross-legged in silence on their individual pillows for 50 minutes. At Inscape in New York, meditation classes take place in a noise-resistant dome and in Austria, the Therme Laa Hotel offers a silent spa – talking is allowed only at check-in. Creating conditions for silence is a fine undertaking, but it can be a bit tedious to always have to drive your car to arrive at a place where you can calm down, or take an airplane to switch off at a retreat. Antarctica is the quietest place I’ve ever been, but I’ve also found silence at the top of New York’s Williamsburg Bridge. Below me, the traffic thundered, the subway pounded, but I was consumed by all I saw and heard nothing. You cannot wait for it to get quiet. You must create your own silence. The kind I am writing about may be found wherever you are – if you pay attention, inside your mind – and is without cost. You don’t have to go to Sri Lanka: you can experience it in your bathtub. Silence in itself is exclusive and luxurious.

It is a practical resource for leading a richer life – a deeper form of experiencing it than just logging on to one of your devices to watch the news, again. Silence is not about turning your back on your surroundings, but rather the opposite: it is seeing the world a bit more clearly.

‘Silence in the Age of Noise’ by Erling Kagge (Viking, £12.99) is out now

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 97

Ocean swe ll MALIBU IS THE HIDEOUT OF ROCK STARS, SCREEN ICONS AND BILLIONAIRES, A PLACE WHERE

CELEBRITY CRASHES HEAD ON WITH POUNDING WAVES. BUT THERE WAS A TIME WHEN THE SURF RULED – AND IN SOME CORNERS IT STILL DOES

BY ALIX SHARKEY. PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACK JOHNS & OWEN TOZER

99

Clockwise, from top left: the Native in Malibu, a mid-century motel that’s had a stylish makeover; homes along Carbon Beach; surfer on Leo Carrillo Beach. Opposite page, from top: Decker Road snakes through canyons north of Malibu; catching the sun on Paradise Cove Beach; the Native. Previous pages, Zuma Beach

100

HERE’S MY PERFECT DAY at the beach. First I fill the tank, because petrol in Koreatown, Los Angeles, is a dollar per gallon cheaper than in Malibu. We leave around 10am on a midweek morning – never rush hour or the weekend – after checking on freeway traffic. Either route has its charms. The 10 ends when you hit Santa Monica and swing north up the Pacific Coast Highway, with sweeping views of the bay and a headful of ozone, windows down and the Stones blaring.

From the 101, you zigzag through a scorched canyon pass with flashes of blue horizon every few hundred yards, so it’s windows up and AC on full blast, Mahler booming.

We pull into Point Dume Plaza, where my wife grabs a smoothie from SunLife Organics and I get an almond-milk latte from Cafecito Organico. Then we grab water from Ralphs and head for a small cove not far from Zuma Beach that shall remain nameless. Why? Because I don’t want you on my beach. Find your own, Malibu has dozens of them. Stick a pin in the map anywhere along the coast between Tuna Canyon Road and the Ventura County line, and that’s a Malibu beach, a beautiful beach. They’re all beautiful.

Anyway, we spread out, get changed, grease up and set the timer.

Then we sleep. Every half hour we flip over, reset the timer and repeat.

That’s it. No books, no jogging or Frisbee or paddleball. No talking or, for God’s sake, exploring. With the wind in our ears and sun beating down, maybe a chopper thwacking along the waterline every hour or so, we make like the surf and crash. After two hours, we’ll creep down to the ocean, shoulders hunched, inch our way into that chilly brine and plunge. Swim 20 minutes, dry off, eat our picnic, and go back to sleep. The air heals, the ocean purifies, the sun soothes us into slumber.

‘Whatever else may be said of Malibu,’ wrote the novelist James M Cain in 1933, ‘it is probably the finest beach ever created by God.’ The author of The Postman Always Rings Twice and Mildred Pierce noted that this ‘perfect arc of crisp yellow sand’ faces due south, meaning, ‘it is always high noon, and even the water has the restless glare that goes with that hour... a vivid-green translucence... dazzling... and more than a little unreal.’

The ’Bu – to use its old surfer nickname – still has that unreal quality. On a good day, and there are some 300 a year, nothing can match that moment when you stand at the ocean’s edge, cool spume rushing up the hot sand and over your toes, the roar of surf pierced by crying gulls, Catalina Island shimmering in the haze, and you spot a pod of gleaming dolphins as they crest the waves. This, along with breathtaking canyons and cliffs, golden dawns and amethyst sunsets, is what draws hundreds of thousands to Malibu’s 20-odd beaches on LA’s brutal, high-summer weekends.

Yet much has changed since Cain’s time. Back then, Malibu had barely begun its transition from semi-wilderness to incorporated city and on to celebrity enclave. Today, this strip of beaches, tarmac and canyons at the foot of the Santa Monica mountains has become a byword for moneyed privilege, home to single-name A-listers such as Streisand, Dylan, Hanks and Gaga. And the super-wealthy keep on coming, driving prices skyward. The average price for a Malibu home rose more than 50 per cent in 2016, to $2.9 million, and that’s at the cheap end: Lady Gaga’s six-acre estate across from Zuma Beach set her back $23 million.

Malibu may have long been an exceptionally smart place to live, but until recently it had few restaurants or hotels to match the demographic. The opening of Nobu in 1999 changed all that, and it’s still packed. Then, last year, the Soho House Group launched the Little Beach House Malibu – with an exclusive locals-only membership – and this year the five-star Nobu Ryokan Hotel opened in what was formerly Casa Malibu, hideaway to the stars. So there’s a

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fresh concentration of coolness on Carbon Beach (aka Billionaire’s Beach), and a sense that Malibu has reached a tipping point.

But some locals insist the battle for the city’s soul has yet to be settled. ‘Everyone has heard about Malibu, but people’s perception is often skewed,’ says 33-year-old Skylar Peak, a passionate surfer, third-generation resident, and the city’s current mayor. ‘It’s not this “Hollywood on the Ocean” that people imagine. There’s a rawness to the culture, a true sense of community, and a deep love of nature and the ocean.’

That love can be tested, as when a 40ft decomposing fin whale washed up on the beach right below Barbra Streisand’s estate, and stank out the place for weeks. And canyon residents spent a great deal of time debating whether to cull P-45, a predatory 150lb mountain lion which killed more than 60 animals. Even the weather can get biblical: five years of drought – in a region known for devastating wildfires – were followed in 2016 by the wettest winter on record, with storms, flooding and mudslides.

Still, governance is about priorities, and Peak says his primary mayoral role is to protect the local environment. ‘Malibu residents cannot ignore the effect of climate change on ocean levels. We’ve got homes here built over the water, right on the sand. If we don’t meet the challenge, then we fail not only our generation but the next.’

So what’s the strategy? ‘Well, large-scale development is off the table,’ he says. In 2014, Peak was a champion – along with Streisand, Hanks, director Rob Reiner and entertainment mogul David Geffen – of Measure R, a city council proposal to restrict the opening of big shops in general, and a Whole Foods supermarket in particular.

(Measure R passed with 60 per cent of the popular vote, but is currently subject to a legal appeal.)

‘There are almost two Malibus,’ says Ryan Sarmiento, the 24-year-old content manager of website allthingsmalibu.com. ‘There’s new Malibu, the scene-y, very affluent side with the entertainment and media people. And there’s old Malibu, the – well, not blue collar, but more earthy people who’ve been here a while, with deeper roots.’ The two sides often clash, says Ryan, because new Malibu wants convenience, while old Malibu prefers conservation.

This tension between nature and culture runs in Malibu’s DNA, going back 7,000 years to the time when Chumash Indians crossed the Santa Monica mountains to settle and build fishing villages in the place they called Humaliwo, or ‘surf sounds loudly’. In the 1770s, Spanish settlers arrived, enslaved any of the 20,000 Chumash they hadn’t already massacred, and corrupted the name into Malibu. In 1804, a Mexican army veteran claimed 13,000 acres of coastline for a cattle ranch, which, when the USA annexed California, was acquired by Boston oil tycoon Frederick Hastings Rindge.

After Rindge’s death in 1905, his flinty widow May – dubbed Queen of Malibu by the press – squandered his vast fortune 104

fighting Los Angeles County’s proposed highway along her coast, erecting gates and fences patrolled by a 40-strong posse of armed guards. In 1923, the US Supreme Court settled California’s longest land battle, ruling that the county could build ‘a scenic highway of great beauty’. And so the Pacific Coast Highway, or PCH, was born.

Almost ruined by two decades of legal costs, May decided to lease, and then sell, chunks of her newly accessible coastline.

It was estate agent and marketing whiz Art Jones who devised the concept of 10-year leases at what became known as the Malibu Movie Colony. At first it was a tough sell – who’d rent sand at $30 a month and build a house, only to give it up after 10 years? Then Anna Q Nilsson moved in. Forgotten today, this silent-screen actress was getting 30,000 fan letters a month in 1928. Other thespians soon followed, often with studio set designers to fix up their beach houses. Then movie mogul Jack Warner splurged $100,000 on a cottage, and the floodgates opened: Charlie Chaplin, Dolores del Rio, Clara Bow, Gloria Swanson, Ronald Colman and Barbara Stanwyck all came to chill at the beach. Down the years the Colony hosted everyone from Lana Turner to Liz and Dick to Larry Hagman, until in the 1970s it was re-colonised by the ‘music people’: Neil Diamond, Ronnie Wood, Alice Cooper, Linda Ronstadt. The attraction, then as now, was security and seclusion: a private road, gated and guarded 24/7, to keep out the gawkers.

By the late 1980s, the community had already managed to thwart sundry harebrained schemes, including plans for a nuclear reactor, an eight-lane freeway through the mountains, and the widening of the PCH. But when the county approved a sewer system capable of servicing 400,000 – with property developers eager to build massive hotels and condo projects – locals swiftly incorporated Malibu as a city, giving them control of zoning and sewage, which would be managed as it always had: with septic tanks. The area’s enduring natural beauty is, you might say, all down to doo-doo.

‘Malibu people may look low-key,’ says Khalil Rafati, founder of SunLife Organics, the aforementioned go-to store for juices, smoothies, sundaes and frozen yogurts. ‘But they’re wealthy, sophisticated and used to being treated like royalty.’ Rafati has two Malibu outlets, drawing everyone from office workers and retirees, yoga instructors, surfers and A-listers, all adhering to the California lifestyle. ‘People here are fully up-to-date with the best in nutrition.

They know all about kava, bone broth, camel milk; they know about dragon fruit and goat colostrum. So you’ve got to work hard to stay ahead of trends.’

‘The commercialisation of Malibu began in 2008,’ says Rafati, ‘when staycations became popular.’ Before that, he says, LA’s richest would summer in Lake Havasu or Big Bear. But when the recession bit, and many lost their second homes, they started holidaying in Malibu, particularly at Carbon Beach. ‘That’s when all

Clockwise from above: poolside at a private home in Malibu; the Native’s reception and gardens; a Fifties Ford Fairlane on Zuma Beach. Opposite page, the Native’s retro-chic bathrooms.

Previous pages, a surfer catches a wave at Leo Carrillo Beach

the cool people moved to Point Dume, to escape all the traffic and congestion. Bob Dylan was already up there, but then came the Beastie Boys, a couple of Chili Peppers, Owen Wilson and the Hemsworth brothers. And it still has that laid-back, old Malibu vibe. Meaning, the more dressed up you are, the less money you really have.’

‘I always wanted to live next to a beach,’ says musician Richard Page, as we eat sandwiches in his kitchen in Point Dume, the magnificent bluffs where the mountains lean out and kiss the water. He and his wife Linda moved here after a ‘little bit of success’ – his band Mr Mister’s 1985 worldwide hit ‘Broken Wings’ and its equally successful follow-up, ‘Kyrie’. ‘This used to be all sand dunes,’ he says.

‘There was a postman, the general-store owner, a blacksmith and a few ranch families.’ The only celebrity anyone saw was Johnny Carson. Apart from him, it was surfers, stoners and a few musicians.

The celebrities hadn’t figured it out back then. It was still too rustic.’

One morning, about 10 years ago, Richard was standing in line at the drugstore. ‘The woman in front of me had leopard-print leggings and stiletto-heeled boots, with the big hair and the face pulled back, lips all made up. I’d never seen anyone like that here.

And I realised, “Wow, this place is really changing.” Then the Bentleys started to appear. But in the past five years, the gentrification has kicked up a gear.’ Today the Pages’ neighbours include Chris Martin, Julia Roberts, Anthony Kiedis and film-score composer Richard Gibbs, whose ocean-view studio has hosted U2, Sting and Kanye.

But a somewhat covetous attitude has led to some bitter legal battles. California’s constitution states that the entire coastline below the ‘median high-tide line’ is open to the public. Yet for years wealthy residents blocked access to beaches, claiming them as private. The tide turned in 2014, when Governor Jerry Brown gave the California Coast Commission power to impose almost unlimited fines on repeat offenders. Last December, cosmetic surgeon Warren Lent and his wife Henny were fined $4.2 million following a decade of warnings to open a blocked public passageway leading to what they advertised to prospective renters as a ‘private beach’ in front of their house. This was seen as a warning shot to other beachfront residents who posted phony signs on the sand or painted fake ‘No parking’ boards outside their homes.

Perhaps their attitude is understandable. This tiny town (population 12,656), built around a single through-road, can feel more than a little claustrophobic on summer weekends, when 250,000 visitors pack the beaches. And God forbid Fourth of July should fall on a weekend: the last one drew 580,000, with 230,000 on Zuma alone. And if it’s not the beaches, it’s the canyons. The Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area is the world’s largest urban national park, with 153,075 acres spread across 24 zip codes and, at the Malibu end, some of the most magnificent coastal mountain trails you’ll ever hike. Last year, more than 900,000 people visited.

Most of them, of course, enjoy the flora and fauna responsibly.

But there’s always some gauche outsider ready to upset the delicate ecosystem that is Malibu. Rafati recalls how a few months ago a pair of young women in his Point Dume store had just bought smoothies when one of them screamed, ‘Oh my God, it’s Harry Styles!’ Her friend shrieked too, and dropped her smoothie bottle, shattering glass and spraying sticky liquid everywhere. Styles fled.

‘It’s obvious,’ says Rafati. ‘If you’re travelling through nature and you see a moose or a bear cub, you don’t feed it, poke it or scream at it. So if you’re in Malibu and you see someone from the movies or TV, you don’t stick your camera in their face or shout at them.

Sure, smile and say hello. But leave them alone, y’know? If you’re cool, you might be surprised by what happens.’

FOR WHERE TO EAT, DRINK & SLEEP, TURN TO PAGE 109 106

This picture, parked up on the PaciďŹ c Coast Highway and heading for Zuma Beach.

Above and below: the Native motel. Opposite page, time out at Leo Carrillo Beach

Malibu haze

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK SUNLIFE ORGANICS

NEPTUNE’S NET

The ’Bu’s hottest smoothie, juice and lunch-bowl emporium. It’s always busy, and its crystals and spiritual books compete with surfing videos on loop to create a funky ambience. My favourite smoothie is The Mystic: banana, dates, cinnamon, spirulina, maca, raw cacao, chia seeds, sprouted brown-rice protein, cashew butter and Thai coconut water, all topped off with raw cacao nibs and fresh mint. Malibu West – Point Dume, 29169 Heathercliff Road (+1 310 457 6161; sunlifeorganics.com)

If you want to see an old-school culture clash, drive to Yerba Buena Road on a Saturday and drop by Neptune’s Net: bikers in colours on one side, surfers with boards the other, all eating battered fish and fries. And if you’re looking for the freshest, crispiest seafood on the coast, snag a table outside and join the queue. It’s little more than an oversized beach cottage, but it has been owned and operated by a commercial fishing family since 1972, and has the best fish and chips this side of the UK. 25653 Pacific Coast Highway (+1 310 456 3430; malibuseafood.com)

NOBU MALIBU Thirty years after Nobu Matsuhisa inverted the culinary world with his Japanese-Peruvian fusion – has anyone not yet tried the signature black cod with miso? – the brand is as strong, and the food as delicious as ever. Of the 12 Nobu locations across the USA, Malibu is probably still the most exotic. If you’re planning just one special restaurant, this is the place – as long as you book months ahead. 22706 Pacific Coast Highway (+1 310 317 9140; noburestaurants.com)

DUKE’S MALIBU Sure, it’s a Hawaiian-themed chain restaurant and it serves umbrella drinks, but you can’t visit Malibu without going to Duke’s – named after surf legend Duke Paoa Kahanamoku, the Olympic gold-medallist swimmer, who introduced surfing to Cali in 1912. Besides, the oceanview dining room is spectacular, the Sunday brunch is huge and it’s been open since 1996, which is, like, forever around here. 21150 Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu (+1 310 317 0777; dukesmalibu.com)

LITTLE BEACH HOUSE MALIBU This distressed-teak minimalist structure between Nobu and the new Nobu Ryokan Hotel is 10,000 square feet of contemporary art, vintage furnishings and Hamptons beach-house elegance on three levels: indoor bar; dining room and open kitchen, with an outdoor terrace and shaded seating; and upstairs, the sitting room – all with sweeping views of the Pacific and 200ft beach frontage. That said, membership requires a $2,000 annual fee and is limited to residents and those with a working connection to Malibu or its nearby coastal areas. The seasonal and locally sourced lunch menu could include sea bream tacos in gluten-free panko, with green papaya and pico de gallo. Otherwise, try the chia-seed flatbread with cashew spread, sprouts and raw vegetables. 22716 Pacific Coast Highway (+1 310 456 2400; littlebeachhousemalibu.com)

MALIBU FARM CAFE Swedish-born model-turned-chef Helene Henderson serves her modernAmerican organic menu at both ends of Malibu Pier, but pass on the pricier Malibu Farm restaurant (food good, service decidedly average) and walk to the café at the pier’s end to grab crab cakes with caper aioli, baby potatoes and rocket, and eat on the roof deck with a million-dollar view. 23000 Pacific Coast Highway (+1 310 456 1112; malibu-farm.com)

MALIBU WINE SAFARI Local wine, fine art and exotic animals. It’s such a great idea it’s a wonder it took so long. But that’s Malibu Wine Safari – a guided tour through the massive Saddlerock Ranch estate, festooned with monumental sculptures and inhabited by zebras, camels, bison, llamas, water buffalo, alpacas and, star of the show, Stanley, a seven-year-old giraffe. It’s a great way to get your Cabernet on, enjoy a picnic lunch and see historic native-American art, all while the kids squeal with delight under the watchful eye of the knowledgeable staff.

32111 Mulholland Highway (+1 818 497 2206; lasafaris.com)

WHERE TO STAY AIRBNB With so few hotels to choose from in Malibu, checking Airbnb or vrbo.com is a good bet. If expense is no issue, you could always take Steven Spielberg’s seven-bed, nine-bath Broad Beach estate for about £97,000 a month. But a far more aesthetic use of your money would be to rent Ravenseye, an architectural masterpiece designed by local maverick architect, 92-year-old Harry Gesner. It sleeps eight – so a snip at £1,200 a night. airbnb.com/rooms/13281381

MALIBU BEACH INN Beautiful and serene if bland, this smart beachfront property is sandwiched between the Pacific Coast Highway and Carbon Beach.

Great if you want to stay in and gaze at the ocean – all 47 rooms have balconies with a sea view and there are excellent spa treatments, but not much else – other than visiting Nobu and Little Beach House, both next door. Valet parking is a pricey extra. Doubles from about £425. 22878 Pacific Coast Highway (+1 424 234 2524; malibubeachinn.com)

MALIBU COUNTRY INN This tranquil, Cape Cod-style hotel hits the sweet spot between casual and prim, with a great location just six minutes’ walk to Zuma Beach.

Rooms are simple and airy, and most have private terraces. Unfortunately, they also tend to face the Santa Monica mountains – if you want one of the ocean-view suites, you’ll have to book early. There’s a decent restaurant and an outdoor heated pool. Doubles from about £180. 6506 Westward Beach Road (+1 310 457 9622; malibucountryinn.com)

NOBU RYOKAN HOTEL The newest and most-desired celebrity haunt on PCH. To ensure their complete privacy, only hotel guests are allowed beyond the wooden frontage. Inside, there are 16 uniquely designed rooms, featuring teak soaking tubs, traditional tatami mats and shoji screens. It’s basically highend monastic minimalism for corporate samurai and A-list ronin. Doubles from about £1,540. 22752 Pacific Coast Highway (noburyokanmalibu.com)

NATIVE HOTEL Originally built in 1947 as the famed Malibu Riviera Motel (James Dean and Bob Dylan both visited), this classic one-storey building recently changed hands and underwent a complete makeover. The 13 rooms have kept their mid-century charm, but now have a far more cool, contemporary edge. Other additions include a food truck using a vintage Airstream and a wellness centre. Doubles from about £310. 28920 Pacific Coast Highway (+1 424 644 0517; thenativehotel.com) AS

Opposite, Frankie Seeley, a local surfer, on Malibu’s Leo Carrillo Beach

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GE T Y O U R F R E A K O N IT WAS NORTH AFRICA’S MAVERICK INTERZONE WHERE BEATNIK WRITERS AND ARTISTS RAN WILD. NOW TANGIER HAS A SHAPE-SHIFTING NEW NARRATIVE

BY JEREMY SEAL PHOTOGRAPHS BY LOUISE DESROSIERS

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From far left: a room at Mimi Calpe; medina sign; tilework at Hôtel Nord-Pinus; three colours blue. Previous pages, clockwise from top left: terrace view, bedroom and interior at Hôtel Nord-Pinus; rooftop at Dar Nour riad; table at Mimi Calpe; colours and textures in the medina

BAR, OR BOOKSHOP? IN TANGIER IT’S ONLY APPROPRIATE – even if appropriate has never counted for much here – to begin any visit to this city of literary renegades in one or the other. I opt for a bookshop called Les Insolites. ‘The Weird Things, I guess, might be a translation,’ hazards French proprietor Stéphanie Gaou about the name of his shop, which stocks French, English, Spanish and Moroccan (Darija) Arabic editions of works by Tangier habitués such as Bowles and Burroughs, Kerouac and Orton, Tennessee Williams and Jean Genet, alongside local memoirs. Les Insolites certainly makes for an offbeat browse. But I have no doubt that the bookshop’s name also celebrates the weird things beyond its shelves, the quirks and eccen-

IN THE AIR, ALONG WITH REGULAR WHIFFS OF KIF HASHISH, THERE PERSISTS A tricities of attitude and atmosphere that distinguish Morocco’s outlandish port city at the northernmost tip of Africa.

Credit – or blame – the heady decades this cosmopolitan enclave spent under international administration, when all imaginable pleasures were to be had here. Starting in the 1950s, the demi-monde descended in droves. Errol Flynn, Ava Gardner, Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton and Francis Bacon all did their bit to establish Tangier as the last word in louche, only for some writers to go still further with their X-rated forays into derangement (Burroughs) and depravity (Orton).

Tangier’s own hangover has been its lingering reputation as an unsavoury, even unsafe place.

The newly arrived have tended to waste little time (count on the taxi taking 10 minutes between

the ferry port and the new train station) in becoming the lately departed, hurrying south to Marrakech and Essaouira, or boarding the next boat to Tarifa in Spain. But now this natural stage set – Tangier glories in retro hotels and cafés, theatres and cinemas, as often as not backdrops in movies such as The Sheltering Sky, Spectre and Only Lovers Left Alive – is being reimagined for a wider audience.

The move follows a royal pardon. While the last king, Hassan, played to his devout Islamic constituency by beggaring the place, leaving it to stew in its licentiousness, his son Mohammed has set out to revive this city at the juncture of Europe and Africa, the Atlantic and the

D I S T I N C T I V E R A F F I S H Q U A L I T Y T H AT H A S D R AW N A F R E S H G E N E R AT I O N O F C R E AT I V E S Mediterranean. It’s possible that these ongoing development projects, including the vast new port, marina and nearby high-rise hotels, will erode Tangier’s defining liminal atmosphere. But few will regret that the city’s more squalid dens have largely vanished: the male brothels that Orton frequented, for instance, and the drug-dealing pharmacies which Burroughs cleaned out of injectable methadone and Eukodol; even the drinking shebeens favoured by Tennessee Williams (Fernet-Brancas and Coke) and Ian Fleming (triple vodka tonics).

Not that the current clean-up has erased every last trace of Tangier’s essential dissolution. In the air, along with regular whiffs of kif hashish, there persists a distinctive quality – raffish, bohemian – which has led a new generation of creatives, Francophones to the fore, to make their homes here. This time round, though, it’s not unreliable writers but more service-minded types 113

like Stéphanie Gaou – she opened her downtown café-bookshop in 2004 – along with hoteliers, restaurateurs and boutique owners who have done so much to remake the city for Tangerines (expat residents), Tanjaouis (locals) and travellers alike.

Take Vincent Coppée, a Belgian who came here in the late 1990s at the start of the journey he meant to make through Africa. He went from traveller to Tangerine, which is to say he never left – much to the city’s good fortune, as in 2012 Coppée and his partner Oscar Badji opened their superior speakeasy, the El Morocco Club, in Tangier’s hilltop kasbah. The restaurant gets rave reviews but the soul of the place, Tangier to the core, is the animated, even uproarious piano

C H A I R S C R E A K A N D T H E F LY- C H O K E D L A M P S F L I C K E R , A N D E V E R Y TA B L E T O P A N D bar at the foot of the stairs. In these dark and opulent interiors, the leather banquettes, magical Mojitos and intensely flavoured oysters from Dakhla in Morocco’s far south, I sense a legend in the making. Coppée, a charismatic host, may insist that he has not given up on resuming his Africa trip, but it’s my guess El Morocco’s devoted regulars would have plenty to say about that.

I’m content to keep my own expeditions local. From my Kasbah townhouse hotel – Tanjaoui Farida Kanario and German husband Jürgen Leinen’s pitch-perfect La Tangerina, where the views over white city and blue sea from the roof terrace leave me drooling – I set out on foot to lose myself in the adjacent medina. It takes days to establish mastery over this atmospheric but alien terrain, a vehicle-free warren of stepped alleys, adobe arches, flower murals, cavernous

Above, mezze at Hôtel Nord-Pinus and, right, the roof terrace, for Strait of Gilbraltar views. Opposite, from left: tables at the hilltop El Morocco Club, known for its piano bar; retro design at Hôtel Nord-Pinus

antiques shops, brightly painted marabouts (saints’ shrines) and dead ends, with would-be guides lurking at every turn, ready to pounce at the first sign of hesitation. I’ve learnt to successfully deflect approaches by appearing to know exactly where I’m going – until I do.

My own medina tip, hard earned, is to turn away at the first sign of potted flowers. These proliferate along dead ends – there’s less chance, evidently, of them being knocked over there – while the painted ones on the walls serve as green lights to alleys that lead somewhere, like the Petit Socco. This celebrated square is the heart of the city’s signature café scene. At the famous Tingis café the chairs creak and the fly-choked lamps flicker, and every table top, painted pane and

PA I N T E D PA N E I S H E AV Y W I T H A G E - O L D A C C R E T I O N S O F S T E A M A N D S M O K E filigree screen is heavy with age-old accretions of smoke and steam and sweat and wear and whatever else these interiors have witnessed. To the background sound of rolling dice, a waistcoated waiter serves me a glass of thé à la menthe, steeped in sugar-shovelled sprigs of fresh mint, and in my contented reverie I’m soon establishing a new award, the Palme d’Or for Patina, in the city that wins it, hands down.

In Tangier, which is admittedly short on conventional attractions like museums and galleries, it’s the artfully aged fabric of the city itself – the magnificent ruination of the Cervantes theatre, say, or the lush graveyard gardens of St Andrew’s church, or the kasbah walls’ tiled starbursts – which so often supplies the spectacle. The sights come thick and fast in a city where the compactness commends it to the stroller. At the top of Rue des Siaghines I dip into the food market 115

From left: cotton reels at Le Salon Bleu; titles at Librairie des Colonnes, opened in 1949 and well-known to literary heroes such as Bowles and Burroughs. Opposite, from left: Librairie des Colonnes; ceramics at Las Chicas

which, as in any good thriller, begins innocently enough, as a deli (the olives are as brightly coloured as Smarties) before descending into a charnel house; exiting obliges me to vault not only a human-sized swordfish but also a barricade of still-steaming, sawn-off cows’ legs. I duck into the unsigned weavers’ souk, the Fondaq Wallili, where looms clatter in gloomy interiors and fresh skeins of yarn hang from winding contraptions ingeniously knocked up using old bicycle parts. Then I circle back to the Grand Socco, the light-flooded main square and, in pride of place, the Art Deco Rif cinema, recently restored in striking retro livery as the wonderful Cinémathèque de Tanger.

SK E I N S OF YA R N H A N G F R O M W I N D I N G C ON T R A P T I O N S K N O C K E D U P U S I N G BI CY CL E PA R T S It’s an adventure in itself to reach Tangier’s best museum, set in the old American Legation building, which lies in the darkest corner of the medina. But it’s worth it, not least for the memorabilia display in honour of Paul Bowles, the writer who above all others made Tangier his own, and for the grand interiors hung with further reminders of this city’s rich and strange history. I especially enjoy the letter detailing the delivery an American diplomat was obliged to take of a gift, one the Moroccan emperor insisted on making despite objections that the delivery of two lions, ‘the finest animals of the kind I have seen’, would endanger staff and medina residents alike. As I slip away, so do the centuries, and I can almost hear the lions, this pair of weird things, as they pad their way along Tangier’s resonant alleys.

TANGLED UP IN TANGIER STAY LA TANGERINA is a luminous house with 10 bedrooms arranged around a courtyard, long on nooks, caged songbirds, radiograms and open fires in winter. The draw is ever upwards, towards the roof for breakfast croissants and sun loungers. latangerina.com. Doubles from £45. At HOTEL NORD-PINUS, Anne Igou, who runs the identically named hotel in Arles, has decked out seven rooms in antique fabrics, handmade Fez tiles, cedar chests and brass beds. nord-pinus-tanger.com. Doubles from £180. In its high-walled gardens, MIMI CALPE, a newly opened maison d’hôtes, bears a striking resemblance to a Provençal manor house, but one transplanted to just above Tangier’s corniche. It has jasmine-scented sloping gardens, with a trough-thin swimming pool, and four doubles plus two suites rich in original fixtures. mimicalpe.com. Doubles from £60. VILLA JOSEPHINE, up on the so-called mountain – in fact, a hill that’s long been the city’s most exclusive enclave – is a 10-bedroom haven that once belonged to the adventurer and author Walter Harris. The decor is an affable mix of English provincial (wood-panelling, Victorian crockery and floral fabrics) and plantation house. villajosephine-tanger.com. Doubles from £260

EAT Book ahead for EL MOROCCO CLUB, a kasbah landmark where the menu, part-curated by star chef Meryem Cherkaoui, includes foie gras with rose-flavoured tomatoes and sardines with a coriander, cumin,

parsley and garlic chermoula. Be sure to top or tail your evening with a visit to the fabulous piano bar. elmoroccoclub.ma. You’re barely sitting at your freshly swabbed table at LE SAVEUR DU POISSON when the food – a set menu, dominated by fish from the adjacent market – appears: soup served with flatbreads, harissa, walnuts and olives, perhaps, followed by squid baked with coriander, and cumin-scented plaice.

2 Escalier Waller; +212 539 336326. In the unlikely clutter of CAFE A L’ANGLAISE, a front room that’s open to the street – a faded boudoir, you might think, overrun with wicker trugs full of herbs and vegetables – chef Zhor Chatt serves up superb light meals, salads and juices. 37 Rue de la Kasbah; +212 635 186766. The views from LE SALON BLEU make it a great place for a sundowner (no alcohol but fresh juices), not least for a peek beyond the walls of Dar Nour, once home to Samuel Pepys. darnour.com

SHOP Yasmine Durner Hurel’s LAS CHICAS, opened in 2012, is a treasure trove of Moroccan homewear brands, notably Au Fil de Tanger’s woven tops, Tanger Neroli’s exotic soaps, and plenty of vintage YSL and Dior jewellery. Place du Tabor. +212 539 374510. For almost half a century BOUTIQUE MAJID has been the city’s emporium of choice for exquisite artefacts, with floors of Berber jewellery and metalwork, old cedarwood shutters and brocades, and locally made cotton jerkins which the dapper Majid himself tends to favour. boutiquemajid.com 117

A FINE balanCE wild, wild chitwan park is the flipside to nepal’s glacial peaks. it’s a land of spots and stripes and big, big feet

BY STEVE KING. PHOTOGRAPHS BY CROOKES & JACKSON

IN CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK, IN THE LOWLANDS of southern Nepal, in slanting morning light, a tiger emerged from long grass and stepped onto the dry dust of a dirt track. A female of larger than average size, about two feet to the shoulder and five feet from the nose to the base of the tail. The gold of her coat a tongue of flame against the rising sun. Unhurried, at ease, she lay down.

She savoured the satisfying flatness and smoothness of the road, twisting her hips slightly, the better to feel the coolness of the earth against her body. Through amber eyes she peered, in the indifferent manner of all felines, down the length of road that stretched before her. Her tail swatted the ground idly, raising fine puffs of dust. After a while she rose and, lightly powdered on one side, walked a short distance along the road before stepping once more into the long grass and vanishing completely.

I arrived too late to see any of this. Possibly minutes, possibly only moments. In any case when I got there the tiger was gone.

But nor was the scene entirely a figment of my imagination. It was pieced together from a certain amount of evidence – along with a good deal of assistance from my guide, Shambhu Mahato, for whom reading the subtle signs of a tiger’s movement through the Chitwan jungle is apparently no more complicated than reading a text message on his mobile phone.

Shambhu and I stood on the road and examined the ghostly impression the tiger’s body had left in the soil. ‘Look at the way the outline blurs here and here,’ Shambhu said, pointing. ‘At the hip and tail. She lay down and – see? – swatted the ground with her tail. And maybe she rolled a little bit too.’ A trail of pugmarks showed the animal’s trajectory out of the grass, onto the road, and back into the grass again. (Honestly – ‘pugmarks’.

Was ever a word more unsuitable than this one to describe the prints left by a mighty Bengal tiger’s paws?) ‘Based on the pugmarks,’ Shambhu continued, ‘and the outline of the body, I’d say it was a female. Mature. Quite a good size, actually…’

The park’s 360 square miles supports the highest density of tigers in Asia – about 120 of a global population of perhaps 3,000. Every morning and evening for four days I walked the dirt roads through its forest and around its lake edges, searching for tigers, for that gleam of fire. I never set eyes on even one.

Instead I found consolation in the marvellous profusion of other species. The resurgent population of greater one-horned rhinoceros – the sublimely named Rhinoceros unicornus – is very much in evidence. After a few days of walking in the park, you become almost blasé when, with scant greeting beyond a snort and a harrumph, the long grass a few metres to your left or right is parted by one of these two-tonne dinosaurs. Low-flying clouds of butterflies are scattered by herds of deer, which are in turn Left, Tharu girls in coin necklaces and white nahagi dress dancing in Nepal’s Terai region. Previous pages: a medicine man in a Tharu village; an elephant and its mahout on the banks of the Rapti River 121

were you to come here in a certain frame of mind, it’s the sort of place that might make a believer of you

overlooked by tree-dwelling troops of langur monkeys, their dark faces ringed with white ruffs more splendid than anything worn

by Sir Walter Raleigh. Though sightings of sloth bears and leopards are still rare enough to be cause for wonderment, they are becoming more common.

Elephants, too, remain conspicuous both inside and, increasingly, outside the park. By far the best place to see and learn about them is at the tented Elephant Camp. Here you quite literally share the space with elephants and their mahouts. This very proximity exposes you to the complex – and sometimes frankly uncomfortable – nature of a working relationship with these magnificent creatures. It is a fascinating, honest, eye-opening, one-of-a-kind experiment.

Above all, though, Chitwan is blessed by its extravagant, abundant birdlife. Eventually I stopped writing down the names of the birds we saw, though my guides did not stop spelling them out. I have spent quite a bit of time in the bush over the years and I cannot think why it took me so long to work this out: if you want never to be disappointed on safari, make birds, not big cats, your object. They are everywhere. You will die happy.

One of the park’s top birding experts is DB Chowdray, who also happens to be general manager of Tiger Tops Tharu Lodge, just outside the park. Tharu is the younger sibling of the original Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge. It has an endearing, unpretentious, old-school charm: low-slung whitewashed bungalows radiating from a central mess area, a scattering of tents. Many of the staff have worked here for decades, the battered fleet of bottle-green Land-Rovers even longer. Slickness, shine and polish are not the point. As its owner, Kristjan Edwards, whose father Jim founded the first Tiger Tops, put it to me, ‘The jungle is the product.’

Nepal is typically associated with the high altitudes, forbidding peaks and freezing temperatures of the Himalayas. Much of Chitwan, by contrast, is barely 100 metres above sea level, flat as a chapati and ferociously hot for most of the year. Nevertheless, its jungle, once you are in it, does have a distinctly vertical aspect.

Almost everywhere you are surrounded by tall trees – predominantly sal, a slow-growing hardwood, slender and elegant. Your eyes are drawn forever upwards. A wonderful light filters through the canopy, as if through pale-green stained glass. In this respect Chitwan is very different from the great game parks of East Africa, with their broad, distant horizons and sunbaked plains dotted with short, flat-topped acacias.

Another difference is that you are free to walk in Chitwan. This is more than merely liberating; it is a source of profound joy. It restores an entire sense that is lost on a motorised safari – the sense of hearing. Engine noise all but obliterates the sounds of a living landscape. In a jeep you may catch some of the cries but

you miss all of the whispers. The light, the quiet, the soaring lines and arching branches of the sal trees, the paths between them chequered with fallen leaves – all combine to give Chitwan a curiously devotional aspect. Were you to come to it in a certain frame of mind, it is the sort of place that might make a believer of you.

Before Chitwan became a national park in 1973 it was a royal hunting ground. The greatest threats to its wildlife bore blunderbusses and moustaches. Nepal’s rulers were efficient accumulators of trophy kills but King George V upped the ante significantly when he came to Chitwan in 1911 and shot 39 tigers in 11 days. Later, Lord Linlithgow, after retiring as Viceroy of India, slaughtered 120 of the beasts over 10 weeks during the 1938-39 season, a much higher overall tally than the king’s, albeit one reached at a somewhat less efficient daily rate. By 1962 there were as few as 20 tigers left in Chitwan. British monarchs and peers cannot be held solely responsible for this precipitous decline. More than anything else, it was the eradication of malaria and the consequent swelling of the local human population that put Chitwan’s wildlife under unprecedented pressure.

What happened next was one of the more remarkable reversals in the history of what we now call conservation. In 1973 Project Tiger was launched by India’s prime minister, Indira Gandhi, inspired by work already taking place in Chitwan. The human inhabitants of many tiger reserves in India and Nepal were evicted – some 4,000 villagers in Chitwan alone (although their removal had begun in the 1960s, to protect not the tiger but the royal hunting ground and the rhinoceros). The 300,000 inhabitants of the surrounding buffer zone, unlike those living near tiger reserves elsewhere, were at least permitted to enter the park to cut grass and timber for domestic use. A proportion of the entrance fees was set aside for schools, clinics and other undertakings that benefitted local residents.

Central to much of this activity was Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge, the pioneering property that became practically synonymous with Chitwan. It opened in 1964, when the park was still being used as a hunting ground – and was instrumental in seeing the land gazetted as a national park in 1973. Tiger Tops put Nepal on the map as a wildlife destination – though its famous Elephant polo championship started almost as a joke. ‘Arriving Kathmandu April 1. Have long sticks. Get ready elephants’. So read the telegram that initiated the first match. Soon it was the stuff of legend, attracting Hollywood stars and heads of state.

Tiger Tops provided a model of responsible management, community engagement and pioneering research. Its relatively small scale meant it had minimal environmental impact, while the high price it paid to the government for the privilege

Opposite, the lobby area at Meghauli Serai, a Taj Safari Lodge. Previous pages, a gray langur monkey runs for cover in Chitwan National Park 125

of operating within the park meant it supplied a steady and urgently needed income stream. It would be difficult to overstate its importance.

Imagine the astonishment, then, when the Nepali government refused to renew Tiger Tops’ concession in 2012. The reasons for this remain murky – for the benefit of the wildlife, say officials; for the benefit of property developers in the buffer zone and their crooked backers, say critics. Either way, the result is already clear – a huge loss of revenue from within the park and a seemingly unchecked proliferation of new lodges catering to low-cost, high-volume tourists beyond it.

But then there is Meghauli Serai, the recently opened Taj Hotels lodge, where slickness, shine and polish absolutely are the point. When I arrived, the entire staff lined up to greet me in song. Twin portals were ceremoniously opened to reveal interiors of gleaming stone and statement wood, and a pool that extends towards the Rapti River and the park beyond. A string of villas – pale and creamy, with hand-painted murals, vast bathrooms and powerful air-conditioners – runs parallel to the river; a multi-storey block of rooms is set further back among landscaped gardens. Taj is one of India’s great hotel brands, and Meghauli Serai is its first foray into neighbouring Nepal. As with Tharu Lodge, the location is excellent, the staff charming, the guides superb. But the look and feel is utterly different, and in terms of what it can deliver to travellers of a sybaritic disposition there is presently nothing else like it in the region.

Chitwan is one of Nepal’s greatest success stories. It has helped improve the lives of tens of thousands of ordinary Nepalis, as well as protecting endangered species and their habitat. It has been an emblem of the country’s tremendous resilience, courage and fortitude, and a cause for optimism and pride. Nepal needs that. Its recent history reads like a catalogue of calamity and misfortune, including, though by no means limited to, the earthquake of April 2015, which killed 9,000 people and made more than two million homeless. Against such a backdrop, can the management of a national park really be seen as a priority? In this case the answer must be yes. So by all means do go to Nepal, to Chitwan. Engage with its complexities. Walk in its cathedral light, beneath its tall trees, among its tigers, amid its whispering serenity.

Scott Dunn (+44 20 8682 5060; scottdunn.com) offers tailor-made trips to Nepal from £2,995 per person. This is based on a 14-night itinerary taking in Kathmandu, Bandipur, Annapurna, Pokhara, Chitwan and Dhulikhel, and includes accommodation, transfers and guides, as well as flights with Turkish Airlines (turkishairlines.com) Left, a leopard at Chitwan National Park – the first time our photographer’s local guide had seen one in 16 years 127

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block buster OSLO’S ALWAYS HAD ITS INDIE APPEAL, BUT NOW A MAELSTROM OF FORWARD-THINKING ARCHITECTURE, PLATE-RATTLING FOOD AND CRUNCHY ART IS TAKING IT DEEP INTO THE SCANDINAVIAN MAINSTREAM

BY RICK JORDAN. PHOTOGRAPHED BY MAT THEW BUCK

THE HEAT IN THE SAUNA IS STUPEFYING. The air shimmers.

My bones shimmer. My two companions tell me about a sauna boat up in Tromsø where you can stagger out and topple straight into the Arctic sea. I’m handed a can of beer: the metal nearly scalds my hand but the liquid inside is deliciously cool and I hold it in my mouth a while, swishing it around. Then we’re up and outside, running on Oslo’s harbour, skin steaming in the air; there’s a tangle of pale limbs, laughter, and naked bodies hit the sea only to splutter and climb out immediately. Shards of ice glaze the water like scales. If the sauna is an extreme form of hygge – or koselig in Norwegian – then this is more frrrrrryge. Behind us rise huge wooden A-frames, like the spines of Jenga-brick dinosaurs, and a spectral soundtrack of whale wail, Stranger Things eerie, emerges from hidden speakers. A few curious passers-by with shopping bags stop and stare, wondering what the hell is going on.

What’s going on is that a nomadic arts project called SALT has pitched up on Oslo’s waterfront and built itself an encampment. A Noah-sized wooden pyramid contains one of the world’s biggest saunas, and there are small huttents on sledges, a form of neat hybrid technology that’s actually a centuries-old Sami tradition. Those giant wooden A-frames are inspired by the wooden racks used in the north to hang out fish and dry them like socks.

Sitting on a deckchair at the top of the sauna pyramid, with more of those beers, I’m talking to SALT’s Erland

salt-cod tacos. One hut has been kitted out to resemble a cabin dating from Erland’s grandparent’s generation, a fire in the grate, shelves filled with porcelain polar bears, family photographs and tasselled lamps. Erland nods up at the rowing boat slung upside down from the ceiling.

‘It’s been in my family for a century. I’ve fixed the bass speakers in there and if you’re dancing underneath the sound will make your hair stand on end!’

Norwegians have a thing about cabins. They occupy a special part of the national psyche – a simple place to hole up in and face the elements, a reaction against urban decadence. Flick through Lars Mytting’s Norwegian Wood, a surprise publishing hit in 2015, and you might start wondering about your own axemanship and whether you’re a ‘bark up’ or ‘bark down’ kind of guy. Erland snorts when I mention the book; but Norway is a country fragranced by the scent of birch smoke, with a history trodden by raw-knuckled, thick-socked men who headed outdoors and just kept on going. Roald Amundsen. Thor Heyerdahl. My favourite bearded pin-up is Fridtjof Nansen, the Arctic explorer who stayed still – by purposely getting his boat stuck in ice and then drifting towards the pole (it didn’t work, but he got a whole lot further north than anyone else). Oslo’s stoicism can be symbolised by the enduring, bird-limed statues of Ibsen and Grieg, and the muscular redbrick town hall, with twin towers you want to wrap a scarf around when it’s bitter.

THIS IS A TOWN OF UNINTENTIONAL SPEAKEASIES, DISCO BISTROS AND NATURAL WINES WITH LABELS LIKE TATTOOS Mogård-Larsen and Inger Ommedal. A burly cruise ship swaggers by, just in from Copenhagen. ‘That’s the ugly one,’ says Inger. ‘We raise a glass to all the other boats as they go past, but not that one.’ Erland’s a one-time punk drummer who organised raves in the 1990s and then accidentally became involved in a cultural festival in the north of Norway. ‘I’d had too many Cognacs one night and agreed to help run it, but the next morning I remembered nothing until I got the phone call,’ he says, rubbing his head. ‘But it reawakened my interest in my country’s traditions, and its relationship with the ocean.’

His epiphany led to the first SALT festival, with those pyramids erected on an empty beach in Sandhornøy, a savagely beautiful island in the Arctic Circle. This wasn’t a festival to turn up at rocking a pair of angel wings and sequins, but one that took at least a couple of flights, then a giddy voyage across a wild stretch of sea. When a storm huffed and puffed and blew his pyramids down, Erland thought his project was over but here they are, reborn in the embrace of Oslo, hosting a slow-burn series of happenings over the next two years before moving on to Greenland, the Faroe Islands and Scotland. There are talks about sustainability and seals, DJ nights and weekly sauna sessions with specially composed soundscapes, BBQs and

So while many folk get out of Oslo whenever they can, strapping on skis or hiking boots to commune with the hill and forest gods, a new generation of creatives are staying put and nailing together their own cabins: personal, carefully crafted projects such as music studios and fashion labels and natural-wine bars. On a grander scale, too, cranes are gathering on the skyline like a mapmaker’s compass. A new Munch gallery and national museum are rising on the harbourside, to open in 2020, joining the glacier-like opera house whose contours are pitched just right for Oslopolitans, who like to hike up and down the roof. There’s also the Deichman library, one room of which will house the intriguing Future Library, a time-capsule project by Scottish artist Katie Paterson. It’s a typically sustainable, far-sighted vision. A story is being written each year for a century (authors so far include David Mitchell and Margaret Atwood), to be unsealed and read in 2114 when a specially planted forest outside the capital will be lopped down and turned into paper for the books.

While other Scandi cities such as Stockholm and Copenhagen have become short-break destinations for their design, street culture and food, Oslo was always a little backwards in coming forward. It was the one in the corner, a little aloof after the surprise discovery of North

Opposite, clockwise from top left: mid-century finds at Fuglen bar; Kolonialen restaurant in the Bislett district; shelves at Fuglen, and a reel-to-reel tape machine at the bar; table at natural-wine bar Brutus; street poster; homewares at Eske, adjoining Kolonialen; a bedroom at The Thief hotel in the Tjuvholmen district. Centre, Hitchhiker café at the Mathallen food hall. Previous pages, clockwise from top left: The Horse Thief, a Richard Prince lithograph at The Thief; building in the Barcode area; YME Universe fashion store; Territoriet wine bar; Brutus; the harbourside opera house, designed by Oslo-based architects Snøhetta; bedroom at The Thief; guests at Territoriet 131

Sea oil in 1968 made it one of the world’s super-rich kids.

But no longer. Norway’s becoming more extrovert, having more fun. As I walk past Oslo town hall, its bells begin to chime. It takes me a few seconds to recognise the melody as the Kygo remix of Ed Sheeran’s ‘I See Fire’.

EMBARK ON A TOUR OF OSLO’S SIXTIES flirtation with Japanese minimalist design, and there is but one stop: an all-day coffee shop and cocktail bar called Fuglen. It’s run by three thirtysomething friends, who matched its teak cabinets and biri-straw wallpaper with flamenco-haired Woolworths portraits and mid-century Scandi finds – all of it for sale, alongside concoctions such as a toasted oarweed and dill Martini. The night I visit there’s a mutton-chopped DJ in one corner spinning early Prince and some yacht rock, who turns out to be Todd Terje.

If there’s a soundtrack to this new Oslo, it’s the dubby, Norwegian cosmic-disco that’s been wibbling and wobbling in my headphones the past few years. The unlikely story of how this blissed-out Balearic sound took foothold in a country that was pretty much a cultural Galápagos, where skateboarding was banned for a decade, is told in a recently released documentary, Northern Disco Lights.

Beanie-hatted veterans including Lindstrøm and Bjørn Torske recall how bedroom DJs from Tromsø and Bergen unspooled a fresh electronic sound into the capital. It was, and still is, a close-knit community of individuals making

If Andreas helped untuck and ruffle his hometown’s napkins, Danish-born Esben Holmboe Bang lobbed it in a whole new direction while placing Norway’s terroir on the Nordic foodmap. His restaurant Maemmo has picked up three Michelin stars for putting ingredients such as fermented mountain trout and sea-buckthorn juice on the plate. ‘Norway’s coastline is incredibly long and the wild seafood is insane. There are langoustines as big as dogs,’ he says. ‘Mahogany clams that are 400-years-old and taste of everything you thought the sea would taste like but never have.’ He shrugs, ‘Oslo was quite stagnant, and the unwritten Scandinavian law of jante – the idea that no one should stand out from the crowd – held things back a bit.

But I think people are getting over that.’

I don’t know about jante but places here don’t exactly shout their whereabouts. This is a town of unintentional speakeasies, of disco bistros behind unassuming doors, knees on stools grazing counters, low-riding hip-hop and funky natural wines with labels that look like tattoos.

Many fingers point me to Pjoltergeist, in a former Hell’s Angels bar, which I walk past three times before seeing the handwritten sign. Here, the tasting menu is a succession of surprises: langoustine in vanilla sauce, confit of duck-leg dumplings, a skate wing that I’m instructed to eat – ‘no cutlery for this one!’ – with my fingers to appreciate the texture, ending with black coffee in a Moomin cup. The next evening, after a plate of poached eggs in mussel sauce

AWAY FROM THE BIG-MONEY PROJECTS, AN AUDACIOUS ART SCENE HAS GROWN IN THE FOLDS AND SHADOWS something fresh away from the cacophony of larger cities.

But the musician who has really taken the sound global is Terje, cool enough to invite Bryan Ferry to guest on his album, and whose quite excellent track ‘Inspector Norse’ pings and shimmies like Pacman on roller skates. When I run into him at Fuglen, he has a pop-up store next door selling his own range of retro-Seventies underwear. Pants?

‘Yeah, well, band T-shirts are so done these days, I wanted to do something different.’

‘RESTAURANTS HERE USED TO BE super-boring. Uptight, French fine dining,’ Andreas Viestad tells me, before admonishing me for only piling up half my plate with roast pork (‘Ah, we have a vegetarian among us!’). The chef has a sly sense of humour and his St Lars bistro isn’t for the squeamish: the patron saint is graced with a large painting depicting him being roasted naked over a grill.

The unblinkered menu flags up pig’s snout and ear, and horse-meat tartare alongside other small plates of scallops with sweetbread, and reindeer strewn with crispy black kale. (Oslo has a knack of challenging your notion of good taste. Elsewhere I’m offered – keep it quiet – minke-whale sashimi, and dried seal, black as liquorice, chewy like biltong. Well, what would an Arctic explorer have done?)

at neighbourhood restaurant Smalhans, I take the tram to the recently opened Brutus bar, where burly men in black shorts, like a hipster Tweedledee and Tweedledum, bring over glasses of gooseberry-scented orange wine.

Brutus is in the shadow of the former police HQ in Tøyen, home to Jo Nesbø’s grumpy fictional detective, the hard-drinking Harry Hole (fleshed out in cinemas this month by Michael Fassbender, in The Snowman). If you really want to get to know a city, use its crime fiction as your compass – Nordic noir had mapped out Oslo’s streets long before I came here. But it’s a laughably safe place. I was able to amble down dark alleyways at night without once feeling the chill breath of a serial killer on my neck.

OSLO ISN’T THE PRETTIEST TOWN in Scandinavia, despite the ribbons of red-faced cottages strewn like bunting on its outskirts. Dockland is being reclaimed, working-class neighbourhoods recast. The Barcode district has grown by the railway tracks, an ensemble of monochrome towers in pixellated urban camouflage; the almost-island of Tjuvholmen has become a shiny-shiny pocket of walkways and bridges, leading to The Thief hotel and Renzo Piano’s Astrup Fearnley gallery, which skims the water like a catamaran and draws in big-swinging art names. While

Opposite, from top left: vintage adverts at Fuglen; the opera house; book at Fuglen; Ugo Rondinone sculpture outside the Astrup Fearnley Museum; fan at Kolonialen; streetview on Tjuvholmen; FAQ, an artwork by Jan Freuchen at a show curated by Christian Torp; design at YME Universe. Centre, table at Brutus. Previous pages, clockwise from top left: the opera house roof; record player at Fuglen; the Barcode area; Shoot photography gallery; design for sale at Eske; Brutus bar; Head by Christopher Wool at the Astrup Fearnley; Torggata Botaniske bar 134

the city’s version of Greenwich Village has long been Grunerløkka, where hip childrenswear outfits sell Star Wars babygros, other areas such as Toyen and Grønland are catching up; West African food and wig stores next to artist-run spaces and indie studios such as the 1857 and VII, VIII galleries. Away from the city’s big-money projects, a more audacious, less-polished scene has grown in the folds – there’s a raw, downtown feel about some spaces, a little Eighties Lower East Side. In the Old Town on the eastern fringes I wonder around what looks, well, like a pretty cool place to have your tyres pumped, until I spy a line of tea lights leading to a flight of stairs. At the top is a break-out gallery called Island, curated by Christian Torp for a solo show by Sebastian Helling – large, gauzy abstracts disrupted by outbursts of random scribbling.

‘Most people still prefer to strap their skis and walking boots on rather than go and see art,’ Torp says drily, ‘but there’s a growing appetite. Norwegians tend to move in packs.

First food and wine, then coffee. Contemporary art is next.’

There are strange things in the woods outside Oslo.

‘You think a squirrel rampaged through here?’ says the main character in recent shlock-horror flick Trollhunter,

surveying a flattened section of forest. Further east from Torp’s gallery is Ekeburg Park, where I encounter a talking lamppost, an unruly mob of clownish skeletons and a pair of entwined figures pirouetting in the trees. All sculptures, by Louise Bourgeoise and the Chapman Brothers among others. An underground water tank has been turned into a hammam-like space by land artist James Turrell, to sit and contemplate the sky, with walkways of colour-changing light giving the unsettling feeling of being too close to a precipice.

Tripping down the hillside from Ekeburg like BillyGoat Gruff, trip trip trip, thinking I’d seen all there was to see, I pause by a plain metal rectangle. It turns out to be a work by vampish performance artist Marina Abramovich, framing the view of the city that apparently inspired Munch to paint The Scream in 1893, with a sign encouraging you to stick your head in and do just that: let all that anguish out. But the crisp sweep of this inventive harbour town, islands in the blue like humpback whales, doesn’t make me want to scream, but just exhale contentedly, as if I was hunkered down in a sauna and had taken a deep mouthful of Norwegian beer.

oslo on my mind ART

EAT Two of the city’s most sought-after set menus are those at Pjoltergeist and Maemmo. The first is a sort of petri dish for Icelandic chef Atly Mar Yngvason, who flips Scandi ingredients with Asian spices; at the three-starred Maemmo, the 21-course menu include tiny cornets of caramelised yeast and smoked fish roe. Maemmo’s co-founder opened Kolonialen recently near the Forties-era Bislett stadium, with sea-buckthorn curd among the hits.

Nearby St Lars is a velvet-clad, NYC-style bistro for a serious meaty feast. Oslo’s waterfront scene is bouncing, with new arrivals including the curvaceous, Kebonyclad Ling Ling – Hakkasan’s little sister – for Norwegian king-crab dumplings and rooftop harbour views, and Vippa, an inside-outside food hall set in shipping containers for pizza and Syrian streetfood. pjoltergeist.no; maaemo.no; kolonialenbislett. no; stlars.no; lingling.hakkasan.com; vippa.no If there’s a poster boy for Oslo’s new foodscape it’s Even Ramsvik, who with his beard, tattoo sleeve and many hats could easily pass for a member of hip Norwegian indie band Highasakite. Since closing his Michelin-starred restaurant Ylajali, he’s been roaming the city with a team of kitchen gunslingers – a little like London’s Young Turks crew. Head to the redbrick Mathallen food hall and Ramsvik’s Hitchhiker joint for streetfood-inspired bites and craft ales, and to neighbourhood restaurant Smalhans for

small plates such as BBQ lamb with pumpkin or ramen. His most recent menu can be found at Sentralen, an on-the-money new cultural hub in a former bank, where sharing plates include smoked beet, and beef tartare with rye crumbs (drop in early the next morning for a rave exercise class). mathallenoslo.no; smalhans.no; sentralen.no

DRINK Oslo’s bars bulge at the seams on weekend nights – square up your shoulders and head to the hothouse Torggata Botaniske for herby cocktails such as the Braetur (with basil-infused gin), and Himkok, marked by a simple ‘27’ on the door, where drinks include a tingling aquavit with yuzu sake and spruce syrup. Mid-century hepcat Fuglen stirs up Nordic-style tiki drinks using foraged leaves and flowers. Buying wine in an off-licence in Oslo is akin to sourcing bananas in wartime London, so no wonder the city’s so fascinated by it. With 300 labels by the glass to dally with, Territoriet is the best place to while away a Sunday afternoon; for a lesson in funky natural wines head to Brutus, run by former Noma sommelier John Sonnichsen, or Bar Lardo (its naturalist website is great fun). This city takes coffee mighty seriously, none more so than champion barista Tim Wendelboe, who has his own bean farm in Colombia: fuel up at his café before browsing the Grunerløkka district. himkok.no; fuglen.com; territoriet.no; barbrutus.no; barlardo.no; timwendelboe.no

As the neon sign atop Oslo’s National Academy of the Arts says, ‘This Is It’. The city’s art profile has grown and grown, with the Astrup Fearnley having drawn smaller galleries into its orbit such as Peder Lund and Branstrup, while tricky-to-find backstreet spaces such as STANDARD pack a serious punch. ‘That place has really driven the scene by bringing in rising new artists, and establishing Norwegian artists globally,’ says gallerist Christian Torp. ‘Some of the best artist-run spaces are 1857, Schloss and NoPlace.’ For photography, head to Shoot, a new gallery in Barcode. Torp’s latest group show is Concrete Island, fittingly enough held in a disused concrete tower until the end of October. christiantorp.com

SLEEP The Thief hotel is set on the Tjuvholmen waterfront, with gold trim and touchy-feely textures, an underground tunnel leading to the spa, and heron’s-eye views over the harbour and Astrup Fearnley Museum. The hotel has its own curator (spot works by Peter Blake and Jeff Koons), while the bar creates incredible film-inspired cocktails such as the Matrix (rum, sherry, pistachio syrup). thethief.com. Doubles from about £295 For more on the SALT festival visit salted.no; for further Oslo details see visitoslo.com.

For reports on the city’s food scene, see andershusa.com. Norwegian (norwegian. com) flies direct to Oslo from London.

Opposite, clockwise from top left: two design details at Fuglen; Kolonialen; play-it-yourself vinyl at Territoriet; biri-straw wallpaper at Fuglen; seafood stall at the Mathallen food hall; photography at Kolonialen; artwork at Territoriet. Centre, traditional clapboard house in Grunerløkka 137

BEAUTIFUL CREATURE mirror the gilded edge of paris in fierce and fanciful looks brought to life by louis vuitton

styled by fiona joseph. photographed by elizaveta porodina

Leopard-print coat, POA; bangle in gold, ÂŁ590; ring in gold, ÂŁ320 139

Metallic-silver jacket with leather trim, £2,800; white shirt dress with cuff detail, £1,450; printed silk shorts, £800; gold ring (just seen) sold in set of three, £575. Opposite, embroidered leather-and-mohair top, £12,000; chiffon dress (worn underneath), £7,000; Fireball ankle boots, £1,200; leather choker with brass medal, £450 141

Embellished dress, ÂŁ8,950. Opposite, turtle-neck knitted top, ÂŁ1,350 143

Metallic-silver embellished dress, £12,000. Opposite, embellished printed dress with leather detail, £12,000.

All clothing, accessories and jewellery, Cruise 2018 Louis Vuitton (louisvuitton.co.uk) Hair and make-up Stella von Senger. Model Pasha Harulia at Viva Model Management, Paris.

Photographed in the Imperial Suite of the Ritz Paris (ritzparis.com). Doubles from about £980 144

PHOTOGRAPH: PAUL MASSEY

146 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

IN BRITAIN

STAYCATION

PENZANCE

A CLUED-IN CROWD ARMED WITH FRESH IDEAS ARE BRINGING CHANGE TO THIS CORNISH TOWN. NOW THE SETTING OF POLDARK IS AN ARTSY HUB WITH MICHELIN STARS MIXING IT UP AMONG THE PIRATES

BY EMMA LOVE

Inside the industrial-smart Cornish Barn, the restaurant at the Artist Residence hotel, tucked away in the old quarter of Penzance

PHOTOGRAPHS: GABRIEL KENNY-RYDER FOR ‘WEEKEND JOURNALS’; PAUL MASSYE; MIKE NEWMAN

IN BRITAIN

MY EARLIEST MEMORIES OF the historic Cornish port town of Penzance are full of ghost stories and ghouls, pirate takeovers and haunted streets. It was 15 years ago, during a university summer holiday, and I’d been dragged along on a ghost tour by my friend Gemma, whose family owns a cottage overlooking the fishing harbour in neighbouring Newlyn (she loves being spooked. I don’t). On that trip we also walked across the causeway at low tide to rocky St Michael’s Mount, ate salt-and-vinegar-soaked fish and chips wrapped in paper on a blustery seafront and caught the shuttle bus to The Barn, a nightclub on the outskirts of town, where I met my first serious boyfriend. Since then, both Penzance and I have grown up a lot.

In the past few years, a handful of exciting, noteworthy places have started to appear: a couple of chefs with serious clout have opened excellent restaurants, Chapel Street is lined with great art galleries and treasure-filled vintage shops, and there are a pair of smart, well-designed hotels. More than somewhere you pass through on the way to Land’s End or Porthcurno Beach, Penzance has now become a destination in its own right.

THE SIMPLE LIFE The idea behind the selection at shop No. 56 is functional, handcrafted homeware made using natural materials. Here, everything from the wooden scrubbing brushes to the ceramic candleholders has a pared-back, Scandi-style aesthetic. There are shelves filled with enamel teapots and green-tinged tumblers made from recycled glass, and rows of Moroccan raffia baskets, striped teatowels and merino blankets. At the back is a rail of linen womenswear, some of which, including a lovely blue housecoat with patch pockets, is made by designer-owner Carole Elsworth under her Handworked label. no-56.com

RETRO FINDS For vintage, mid-century teak cabinets at significantly cheaper-than-London prices, make a beeline for Daisy Laing

(confusingly the sign outside says Kitt’s Corner). There are three floors of furniture (G Plan desks, Hans Olsen dining chairs) and lighting (Arne Jacobsen wooden pendants, German industrial scissor wall lamps) from the 1920s to the 1980s, and a small selection of interior pieces and vinyl records. It’s the kind of place you might stumble across the perfect cabinet that you haven’t been able to source elsewhere. The best bit? The shop will deliver up to 350 miles away. daisylaing.co.uk

WELL READ Specialist bookshop Newlyn Books, run

by Kevin Hearn, is the place for antiquarian and second-hand volumes and maps.

A quick scan along the shelves reveals niche titles such as Shipwrecks Around the Isles of Scilly, Art Forms of Travelling Fairs and Carousels and special-edition catalogues listing work by Cornish-based 20th-century potter Bernard Leach. A year ago, Hearn’s daughter, Holly, opened Endpaper across the corridor, which sells all kinds of paper goods and gifts: botanical prints by Ola, contemporary jewellery

by Pistol & Peach and Jode Pankhurst porcelain planters. facebook.com/newlyn bookspenzance; facebook.com/endpaper

IN THE FRAME Considering this is Cornwall, it’s perhaps unsurprising that there are a handful of excellent contemporary-art galleries.

The best of the bunch are the Exchange (sister to the renowned Newlyn Art Gallery), which has two changing exhibition spaces, a small shop and a café; Cornwall Contemporary, where the topfloor attic is dedicated to experimental work by established artists and promoting up-and-coming talent; and Meta, where friendly owner Lois Grayson sells work that she feels represents the very fabric of Cornwall. For this read hand-thrown pots

by Sally Tully, Sophie Capron’s mixedmedia canvases and earthenware and raku plates and animal sculptures from Jennie Hale. newlynartgallery.co.uk; corwall contemporary.com; metagallery.co

LIDO LOVE Two years after it was badly damaged by storms and closed for restoration, the outdoor Jubilee Pool in Battery Road re-opened to much fanfare for the 2016 summer season. And for good reason.

This triangular-shaped pool, with its streamlined white walls and neat row of Cubist-style changing rooms, is an Art Deco, seafront gem (there’s a small children’s section too). This is also one of Europe’s few remaining saltwater lidos.

Come for a quick dip or bring a picnic, settle on the top terrace, and make an afternoon of it. jubileepool.co.uk

A WALK IN THE PARK Ten minutes’ drive east of Penzance, the delightful 22-acre Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens feature artworks by the likes of James Turrell, David Nash and Richard Long. You’ll need at least an hour to walk a good chunk of the grounds, but it’s worth allowing extra time to pop into the Curious Cabin nursery for succulents, purple-headed agapanthus and artisan knick-knacks, and lunch (croque monsieur, chilli and mint falafel salad) at the popular Tremenheere Kitchen. It’s always full so do book ahead if you can. The newest addition to the site is a contemporary-art gallery, which opened earlier this year. tremenheere.co.uk

FISHY BUSINESS By far the best seafood restaurant in Penzance is the Shore, the passion project of Scottish owner Bruce Rennie, who was previously head chef at Michelin-starred Restaurant Martin Wishart in Edinburgh.

Rennie is a one-man band, making everything himself from the still-warm bread to the rhubarb sorbet, and often waiting on the dozen tables too. Much of the seafood is sourced from Dreckly Fish, a sustainable co-operative of fishermen who sell their catch directly from their boats in Newlyn, and the menu – hake with tenderstem-broccoli risotto, delicately cured pollack ceviche – evolves every few weeks. theshorerestaurant.uk

Opposite, clockwise from top left: unspoilt Porthcurno Beach; the Front Room Café, Penzance; a House room at Artist Residence; gently smoked, locally sourced lobster with homemade slaw at Artist Residence’s Cornish Barn restaurant November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 149

IN BRITAIN

Inside Susan Stuart’s sleek and elegant Chapel House, which was previously the Penzance Arts Club. Left, a collage by artist Robin Whitecross hangs in an alcove between two of the B&B’s first-floor bedrooms. Right, the main hallway on the ground floor

It’s an appetite-building 20-minute stroll along the seafront from Penzance to chef-owner Ben Tunnicliffe’s Tolcarne Inn in Newlyn. Not much has been done to update the interior of the pub since he took over it in 2012, but no matter – a trip here is all about the food. The fish-focused menu is chalked up on the blackboard each day, but expect dishes such as monkfish tail with creamed fennel, mussels and gnocchi, or a delicate risotto with cod fillet and samphire drizzled with herb oil. tolcarneinn.co.uk

PACKING A PICNIC Tom Hazzledine opened the fifth outpost of his Cornish Baker Tom mini-chain on Causewayhead earlier this year. Batches of speciality breads such as goat’s-cheese and red-onion focaccia or carrot, mustardseed and thyme loaf are delivered each morning, along with cakes and pastries.

Further down the street, the Granary sells organic vegetables, soups, salad boxes and sandwiches made by owner Sasha Williams, plus sugar-free sweet treats including vegan chocolate brownies and 150 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

peanut-butter cheesecake. For a hot cup of coffee and homemade pasty, you can’t beat the Cornish Hen deli. While here stock up on local produce – Helford Creek apple juice, Roskilly’s clotted-cream fudge and Tregothnan Earl Grey tea. bakertom. co.uk; thegranarypenzance.co.uk; facebook. com/thecornishhen

ARTY INFLUENCE Anyone familiar with the Artist Residence brand will know the drill: rooms are split into rustic ‘House’ style, with repurposed furniture (Kenyan coffee crates as bedside tables, cushions made from flour sacks, battered brown-leather armchairs) and ‘Arty’, each of which feature original murals designed by a collection of British artists including Jo Peel and Mat McIvor.

What’s new here is the Lookout, a loft suite with its own tiny terrace, and the three-bedroom, cabin-like Cottage, which has reclaimed-wood-panelled walls, an open-plan kitchen/living room with a log burner and a freestanding copper tub in the bathroom. Play ping pong in the garden, relax in the cosy bar or have dinner at the Cornish Barn

restaurant, where the dish to order is beercan chicken, cooked in the smokehouse out back. artistresidencecornwall.co.uk.

Doubles from £85

GOING TO THE CHAPEL Four years ago, charity chief executive Susan Stuart swapped London for the Cornish coast when she set about transforming the Penzance Arts Club into the smartest B&B in town – six-room Chapel House. The Georgian architecture has been offset with a mix of antique furniture and modern pieces: one room comes with a huge, deep-soaking bath; another has flashes of colour in a Fifties sky-blue armchair and a geometric-pattern rug.

Crucially, all have comfortable bespoke oak beds and a view of the sea. Downstairs, there’s a light, airy drawing room; a garden for early-evening cider; and a breakfast room with original flagstone floors and a communal dining table, where Susan whips up mid-week suppers for guests on request. Even if you don’t stay here, do book in for the weekend kitchen supper club – the food is delicious. chapelhousepz. co.uk. Doubles from £150

PHOTOGRAPH: GABRIEL KENNY-RYDER FOR ‘WEEKEND JOURNALS’

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2–5 NOVEMBER 2017, OLYMPIA LONDON

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THE ESSENTIAL EVENT FOR INDIVIDUAL TAILOR-MADE ESCAPES If you’re seeking extraordinary adventures or secret beach hideaways, an immersion in distant culture or untamed wilderness, whatever experience you desire, fire your imagination at the Luxury Travel Fair.

Meet with the widest selection of luxury travel specialists this November plus hear intrepid tales from leading personalities in our Meet the Experts Theatre

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FLAVOUR HUNTER DISPATCHES FROM THE GLOBAL MENU EDITED BY TABITHA JOYCE

PULL UP A CHAIR CHILTERN FIREHOUSE STAR NUNO MENDES SPILLS THE BEANS ON HIS HOMETOWN OF LISBON

PHOTOGRAPH: ANDREW MONTGOMERY

‘I was born here, and although I packed my bags and set out to travel the world when I was 19 years old, the city is still my heart’s home. It’s a serious foodie city and a wonderful one to have grown up in. Ironically though, it took me leaving home to realise that the Portuguese table is one of the best in the world. The rhythm of Lisbon revolves around mealtimes. Every day starts with a coffee and a pastel de nata – with its yellow filling, burnished brown in parts, the custard tart has achieved a kind of cult status – and ends with our penchant for greedy late-night sandwiches. Portuguese food is essentially simple but, like all cultures, it has its own peculiarities, beloved ingredients and distinctive techniques.’

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 155

FLAVOUR HUNTER

Nuno Mendes' favourite Lisbon food includes, clockwise from centre: custard doughnuts; chouriço walnut rolls; baked celeriac; pigeon escabeche; caramel walnut cream. Previous page, almond cream triangle at A Minhota café

nuno on... lisbon's CAFES ‘They are part of the very fabric of the city – not just physically but emotionally, too. From elaborate Art Nouveau establishments to the most basic little pastelaria, they play a crucial part in everyday life.’

FABRICA ‘This is the best coffee shop in town. Order an uma bica, which is like an espresso – only slightly larger – served in a small cup and usually drunk black. Or an um garoto, which is the same size, but half coffee, and half milk.’

PASTEIS DE BELEM ‘Anyone coming to Lisbon for the first time is bound to make a pilgrimage to Pastéis de Belém, the café that gave birth to the custard tart. They’ve been baking them here since 1837 using a recipe passed on from the next-door monastery, and the technique is still a secret.’

MANTEIGARIA ‘This is a new spot in Chiado and, for me, they make my favourite pastéis in the city. They’re superflaky and super-creamy and still warm because there’s a fresh batch coming out of the oven every half hour.’

...TASCAS ‘Almost everyone is loyal to their favourite tasca, a tavern-like kitchen selling simple, traditional food, and for legions of lisboetas, it’s a second home – people go around lunchtime, or after work, and sit down to eat with other regulars – it’s like having a favourite local pub in the UK.’

STOP DO BAIRRO ‘There are football shirts, flags and scarves everywhere, and the food is great. The name means neighbourhood stop and the tables are crammed together. I love their toucinho do céu, an almond cake, which literally translates as “bacon from heaven”.’

TASCA DA ESQUINA ‘The menu changes all the time but just order whatever’s on it - their Azeitão sheep’s milk cheese, made in the south-west of Portugal, is amazing and they have great egg dishes too.’

NUNO MENDES

PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW MONTGOMERY

O CARDOSO DO ESTRELA DE OURO ‘In the kitchen, Dona Laura Cardoso uses a traditional electric branding iron to caramelise the top of her leite creme – Portuguese crème brûlée – while keeping her eye on bubbling pots and frying some of the best meat croquettes I’ve ever tasted.’

...RESTAURANTS CERVEJARIA RAMIRO ‘This is the first restaurant I remember going to as a child. We used to queue up for about two hours to get in but it was worth it. There’s still a queue and I still order the garlic prawns followed by the classic prego steak sandwich.’ cervejariaramiro.pt FEITORIA ‘João Rodrigues is one of my favourite chefs. He works with the best seafood and his four-course tasting menu is amazing: potatoes and egg yolks are served with smoked cheese, and fresh fish with Salicornia-infused rice.’ restaurantefeitoria.com A TABERNA DA RUA DAS FLORES ‘André Magalhães has created this tiny tavern serving some of Lisbon’s most creative cooking. He does this incredible mackerel tart. It’s not formal and was an inspiration for my London restaurant Taberna do Mercado.’

BELCANTO ‘My friend José Avillez has six restaurants here, which have turned Lisbon into a foodie delight. This one has two Michelin stars and the tasting menu takes you on a journey with plates such as "dip in the sea" – a sea-bass dish with seaweed.’ belcanto.pt BICA DO SAPATO ‘This old-school riverfront restaurant is a stunning place to sit and makes amazing sushi. It’s part-owned by John Malkovich and there’s a good club next door.’ bicadosapato.com PRADO ‘This is a new opening from my sous chef of 11 years, Antonio Galapito. He’s one of the most talented chefs I’ve met and I know it will be brilliant. There’s going to be a wine shop and bar next door too.’

...BARS ‘Everyone should drink white port and tonic with an orange twist. There are these really cute kiosks in most of the squares in the centre of town – they all have a couple of tables outside and serve their own version of this authentic Portuguese apéritif.’

CAFE TATI ‘This wine bar and jazz café is a 10-minute walk from the famous Taberna Da Rua Das Flores restaurant so you can put your name down on the list and pop here for a drink. It’s slightly hippy, and they have amazing natural wines that are 100-per-cent organic.’

CINCO LOUNGE ‘Probably the most creative cocktail list in the city. The bar is dark and smart and there’s a “5 o’clock” menu made up of tea-infused concoctions. Later on, make sure to try the zesty pineapple Martini.’ cincolounge.com ‘Lisboeta: Recipes From Portugal’s City Of Light’ by Nuno Mendes is out on 19 October (Bloomsbury, £26)

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 157

GUACAMOLE First, make the dressing. For each large avocado (Hass are the best), finely mince 2tbsp white onion and ½-1tbsp jalapeño chillies. Combine with the juice of half a lime, a little olive or avocado oil and 2tbsp chopped coriander leaves. Dice each avocado into 1cm cubes. Toss them gently in the dressing, pressing a few to roughly squash. Season with sea salt to taste.

Eat with crunchy blue tortilla chips.

PHOTOGRAPH: STUART OVENDEN

THIS MONTH’S RECIPE

FLAVOUR HUNTER

WORLD ON A PLATE THE INGREDIENT: AVOCADO

EAT ME

DRINK ME

We are doing a lot in our kitchen these days. It’s where we work, play, chat, watch TV and check emails. The larger they become, the less they are just a place to cook. Avocados, on the other hand, are almost entirely without such versatility.

As an ingredient, the avocado is a quixotic character. They are packed with ‘good’ monosaturated fats and are synonymous with the current fashion for reducing food to its nutritional value. If you’re more likely to be whizzing protein balls in your food processor than chopping onions, and can’t start your day without a smoothie blaster, you’re likely to be an avocado eater. And as the

Ever since Luis Felipe Edwards plucked an avocado from a tree in his Chilean vineyard and handed it to me with the words, ‘Now try the real thing’, I’ve been a devotee of this fruit. The ones sent to us lack an oily freshness, and so I welcome my colleague’s method of changing the UK-acquired specimen into something svelte – and in the process making the avocado the perfect companion for Chardonnay.

Is there another grape so versatile and on sale at such differing prices? In its sparkling form, Nicolas Feuillatte Vintage Brut Champagne 2008 (Waitrose, £28.99) is fine, but perhaps this bubbly, though good with the dish, is best kept as refreshment for the chef as she prepares it. As a still white, and for a mere £14 a bottle, Marks & Spencer’s Mâcon Villages La Roche Vineuse 2015 is gorgeous.

But, for a rarer form of Chardonnay, we must pay a visit to Westminster wine merchant Charles Taylor (charlestaylorwines. com). Particularly to be recommended is his superb pair of Mercurey, Les Chenaults Blanc Domaine Theulot-Juillot 2015 (£161 the case) and Château de Chamirey 2013 (£179 the case, both excluding VAT). The first is opulent with not a hint of overwoodiness, the second has the freshness of peach and lime.

Charles is a rare bird in wine, especially with regard to Burgundy. He does not deal in bullshit. He has an exceptionally searching palate and an open, honest approach. His complete wine list is worth seeking out and studying. But, and there is always a but where Chardonnay is concerned, what is the greatest example of this grape? Unhesitatingly one’s hand reaches for a bottle of the Meursault from the Clos de la Barre vineyard of Domaine des Comtes Lafon. This white Burgundy never fails to surprise, whatever the vintage, for it

BY JOANNA WEINBERG

IN A WORLD WHERE VEGETABLES HAVE BECOME NOODLES, AN AVOCADO CANNOT DO OR BE ANYTHING APART FROM ITSELF side du jour, its smooth, green crescents adorn plates alongside everything from eggs to steak; it tops rice bowls and fills out salads.

But in this new kitchen world, where vegetables have become noodles, milk can mean any number of liquids and miso improves ice cream, an avocado cannot do or be anything apart from itself: rich, fatty, mellow and mild. This is not for the lack of trying.

Recent clean-eating recipes have used avocado to replace cream in chocolate mousse, cheese in cheesecake and bananas in smoothies. But with the best will in the world – and a good dose of suspension of disbelief – you can still taste the avocado.

While their use as a sweetener seems strange to many of us, across South-east Asia, Brazil, Ethiopia and Sri Lanka, avocados are largely treated as a sweet fruit, either blended, often with chocolate syrup, into a drink or mashed with sugar and lime. To the rest of us, it’s just an addition to wraps, sandwiches (who knew the BLT could be improved?) and sushi, adding satisfying body along with a pleasing silkiness. (However you use it, there’s a trick to stop it from browning: put the removed seed into a glass of water near your cut avocado. It makes no sense at all, but it works.)

The ancestors of today’s avocado, the criollo, can be traced back to Mexico, where fossil evidence suggests similar species have existed for millions of years. Certainly, it has been cultivated for the past 7,000 years. And for all its global variations, it’s to Mexico we return to restore its culinary reputation. There is no avocado dish quite so perfect as guacamole, a blissful combination of rich, fragrant ingredients that become so much more than the sum of its parts. There are no hard-and-fast rules for making it. Some mash it until smooth, others chop it roughly, some add tomatoes and garlic, others just lime and salt. I happen to think my recipe, left, is pretty perfect, accompanied by Waitrose blue tortilla chips.

BY MALCOLM GLUCK

THIS WHITE BURGUNDY HAS GAMINESS BUT NO CRUDENESS, A FINESSE AND SUBTLETY WITHOUT A SENSE OF ARTIFICIAL RESTRAINT offers a completeness of expression of wood, fruit and acid in thrilling cohesion. It has gaminess but no crudeness, depth without overpowering weight or the showiness certain wines from the region flaunt, and a finesse and subtlety without any sense of artificial restraint. Such a wine can hardly come cheap. Berry Brothers & Rudd offer the 2011 vintage by the half a case at more than £100 a bottle. But if you want both the supreme expression of Chardonnay and the perfect avocado partner, Meursault, Clos de la Barre, Domaine des Comtes Lafon is your wine.

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 159

FLAVOUR HUNTER

MOVEABLE FEAST

YOTAM OTTOLENGHI THE ISRAELI-BORN SUPER-COOK WHO BROUGHT THE MIDDLE EAST TO OUR TABLES SHARES HIS FOODIE FINDS BIBER SALCASI RED CHILLI PASTE FROM ISTANBUL

MECHOUI FROM MARRAKECH

‘You can be pretty liberal with this chilli paste. It’s not as spicy as harissa but is way more punchy than passata. It’s a real cheat ingredient and is brilliant just stirred through scrambled eggs. I stock up on it at the Eminönü Egyptian spice bazaar every time I’m in Istanbul and advise all my friends do the same.’

‘I’d been told that I had to order this dish from the restaurant Al Fassia in advance and thank goodness for the tip. The slow-roasted lamb, cooked in the women-only kitchen, was beyond melt-in-the-mouth perfection.’

BRULEE TART FROM SYDNEY

‘Rare is the day that I don’t use my lemon squeezer. I find this particular one by Chef’n so much more ergonomic and purposeful than other makes – I don’t know what I’d do without it.’

BLUE FENUGREEK FROM GEORGIA ‘I discovered this in a vegetable market in Kutaisi on a recent trip to western Georgia. They use the herb a lot there in stews and meat marinades. The flavour is really interesting – sweet and nutty like fenugreek, but a lot more subtle – it’s almost hay-like.’

SAUSAGE ROLLS FROM LONDON ‘The ones from The Ginger Pig are utterly irresistible. I like to sneak a couple into the picnic bag when we’re heading to the park or warm them at home for brunch. The pastry is buttery and flaky and the sausage herby and rich.’

VERJUICE FROM SOUTH AUSTRALIA ‘This is an ingredient that I wish more people cooked with: it’s made from the juice of semi-ripe and unfermented wine grapes. It’s tart and acidic but not at all harsh. It’s a great replacement for lemon or vinegar and I use it in all sorts of dressings and sauces.’

160 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

CROISSANTS FROM MELBOURNE ‘My friend and co-author Helen Goh raved about the croissants from Lune Croissanterie so much that I wasn’t sure they could live up to expectation.

I needn’t have worried – the queues outside the bakery are not for nothing – this is the croissant that should act as the prototype for all others.’

VIETNAMESE PANCAKES FROM HANOI ‘Eating outside always makes food taste better and I love the central garden at Quán An Ngon in Hanoi. There’s a massive menu with all sorts of Asian flavours, but the Vietnamese bánh xèo pancakes have to be my favourite.’

FLAT WHITE FROM LONDON ‘The Coffee Jar is at the end of my road in Camden. I’m just jammy that my neighbourhood café happens to be serving some of the best coffee in town. I pop in most days for a cup – and a snack, if I’m with my kids.’

‘Sweet’ by Yotam Ottolenghi and Helen Goh is out now (Ebury Press, £27)

PHOTOGRAPHS: PEDEN + MUNK; JOHN CAREY/CAMERA PRESS

‘Bourke Street Bakery is my first stop when I’m visiting the city. Its fresh ginger crème brûlée tarts are perfection. Runny spiced custard, brittle caramel and a light, crisp pastry. The secret is the high proportion of water in the dough.’

CITRUS JUICER FROM NEW YORK

T R AVEL L ER PA RTN E R SH IP S

INSIDE

EDGE Barbados: discover a whole new side to this muchloved Caribbean mecca with our ‘Insider Guide’ series. This month we look at how the island’s vibrant culture expresses itself in cuisine

P

ersonality. That is the essence of it. Some might call it culture; others might call it character; or heritage; or joie de vivre. Perhaps it is impossible to give it a name – but there is no doubting Barbados has it.

That’s not to say that this internationally acclaimed gem of the Caribbean doesn’t have blissful beaches: it does. Over 140 in fact, sprinkled along its gorgeous coastline: pink ones, white ones, rugged ones, relaxed ones. It’s not to say it doesn’t have breezy seas: not only that, but they range from balmy Caribbean shallows to powerful Pacific breakers, perfect for everything from snorkelling to surfing. It also has incredible scenery, quaint villages, uniquely English charms, an array of luxury hotels and villas and a gentle rhythm borne of tropical sunshine year round.

Infusing it all, however, is that uniquely Barbadian personality: warm, bubbly, bountiful, infectious. It’s in the beaming smiles that break open at any excuse – whether you’ve just landed a marlin or sampled some of the island’s famous Mount Gay Rum – from some of the friendliest people in the world. It’s in the parades and picnics of the Garrison Savannah horse racing meets that hark back to the island’s quintessentially English heritage (and where polo began!). It’s in the hustle and bustle of the traditional local markets. It’s in Oistins Fish Fry, a night of music and merriment when everyone is welcome at the party every Friday, whether dancing to calypso music or tucking into fish cakes, fried fish and chips washed down with a cool Banks Beer. Or, for the ultimate celebrations – all five weeks of it – there’s the summertime Crop Over festival, a colourful affair steeped in the traditions born of the

sugar plantations in the 1680s. Above all, however, here in the culinary capital of the Caribbean (the region’s first and only island to be Zagat rated, with over 100 local and international restaurants), it is in the cuisine. From beachfront shacks such as Bombas and Bo’s Plaice, where the dress code is swimsuits and bare feet, to staggeringly beautiful cliff-top treats such as The Cliff and Cin Cin

By The Sea; from fine hotel dining rooms and waterside restaurants to bijou cafés tucked away; from famous rum shops to outdoor pop-up caterers popular with locals, the Barbadian personality pervades every uniquely Bajan mouthful. visitbarbados.org DON’T MISS: Barbados Food and Rum Festival (Nov 16-Nov 19 2017). This culinary extravaganza includes the chef’s cookoff at Oistins; a signature rum mixology event; polo, cocktails & canapes; fine dining events across the island, and a final beach party at the Hilton Barbados Resort along with a dinner at The Tides restaurant featuring UK Master Chef Tom Aikens.

Reader Offer Seven nights at Coral Reef Club from £1,875 per person is based on two adults sharing a garden room, including breakfast. Price inclusive of return flight, private transfers and the use of a UK airport lounge. Call 0203 797 2312 to book or visit caribtours.co.uk/ barbados for more information. Offer Included: Stay 7 Pay 6.

Clockwise from this image: The Cliff Restaurant; Gibbs Beach; Nigel Benn Aunty Bar; Rum Old Fashioned; Batts Rock

FLAVOUR HUNTER

TASTE BUZZ: GETTING TRASHED where to do it in london CUB Mr Lyan’s hotly anticipated third joint has just opened in Hoxton, left. Pendant lights are made from paper mulch and cork, while table tops which look like Carrera marble are in fact made from melted yogurt pots. With the help of Arielle Johnson (Noma’s former food scientist), the bar will develop a hi-tech ecosystem for growing ingredients. lyancub.com

NINE LIVES Set in a Victorian basement in Bermondsey, right, this bar takes reincarnation very seriously. Lemons are used for drinks, sure, but the team also PH-balance the leftover citrus (not normally suitable for composting) for the herb garden out back. Plus, by-products of this technique are used to create the bar’s own liqueur and hand soap for the loos. ninelivesbar.com

THE trend When Ryan Chetiyawardana, aka Mr Lyan, opened White Lyan in Shoreditch in 2013, he changed the way we drink. All cocktails were created on a ‘closed loop’: upcycling ingredients that other bars usually throw away, and therefore reducing waste. This included fermenting fruit scraps, turning lemon husks into sweet falernum syrup, even dissolving egg shells. With his second London bar, Dandelyan at the Mondrian hotel, having just been named the best in the world, others are following suit.

TRY IT San Francisco’s The Perennial bar sends all its organic leftovers to be composted with the help of worms and larvae, which is then used to feed fish – whose own waste supplies nutrients for vegetable beds where the bar’s mixologists grow herbs and caviar limes. Meanwhile, in Rotterdam, De Fruithaven nightclub collects food waste in an electric truck to make fertiliser as well as a type of plastic.

The latter is run through a 3D printer to make furniture and vases (and was used to create the bar itself). And a by-product of this process is methane, which supplements the venue’s solar-powered energy supply. Closed-loop clubbing? Let’s drink to that. LAUREN HEPBURN 162 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

TRASH TIKI AT TIENDA ROOSTERIA At Marcus Samuelsson’s new Shoreditch taco restaurant Tienda Roosteria, left, Iain Griffiths and Kelsey Ramage of Trash Tiki have implemented the use of leftovers in the tiki-inspired drinks list. The Nixta Sour is made with cast-off corn-tortilla orgeat, while the Tip Off Fizz is flavoured with leftover stalks of mint and coriander. thecurtain.com

SCOUT Cocktail kid Matt Whiley (Peg + Patriot, Worship St Whistling Shop) dishes up an ever-changing menu using ingredients found on the British Isles, while ensuring that nothing goes to waste: surplus yeast from the sourdough, for example, goes into the beer. Try the Rhubarb cocktail, which blends the fermented fruit with creamy custard and pine. scout.bar

Favourite side dishes at Claridge’s, including truffled macaroni gratin, beetroot and eel gratin, and kale, peanut and ginger salad

THE COOKBOOK

pot luck

PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN CAREY

FEASTS OF CLARIDGE’S, DEMYSTIFIED Long, long ago, when I was a sports-mad schoolboy, I took it upon myself to fashion, by hand, a cricket bat in imitation of one favoured by some dashing champion of the day. A double-scooped Gray-Nicolls. Needless to say, my exertions at the bench were a complete waste of time and timber.

A ripped-up floorboard would have been more effective on the field of play. The cookbooks produced by famous restaurants or hotels are a bit like that. There is no point trying to recreate the magic at home. You cannot. The pleasure of eating out can only be had... out. Nevertheless, Claridge’s cookbook is a delight, and weirdly thrilling. Seeing the recipes of legendary dishes laid bare, you feel as though you are being made privy to precious trade secrets (which, in a way, you are), even if you cannot make practical use of them (which, as I say, you absolutely cannot). It also reminds you what a chore cooking is and how grateful you should be to the men and women in enchanted places such as Claridge’s who are willing to relieve you of that burden. Just like the people who make proper cricket bats. God bless them. STEVE KING ‘Claridge’s: The Cookbook’ is out now (£30, Octopus Publishing Group)

TRAVELLER EVENTS KEEP ON COURSE FOR THE LATEST HAPPENINGS

PLUS

PHOTOGRAPH: TIM COLE

THE LOWDOWN ON OUR BRUNCH AT PERGOLA ON THE ROOF IN LONDON

INTREPID TALES WITH SOPHIE RADCLIFFE AT LONGCHAMP’S BOND STREET STORE

AN ITALIAN FEAST WITH S.PELLEGRINO GET YOUR NAME ON THE LIST FOR OUR DELICIOUS SUPPER CLUB London’s hottest pop-up venue Carousel will be the candle-lit setting for a four-course tasting tour, the first Postcards From Italy dinner created especially for Condé Nast Traveller readers.

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 165

EVENTS

CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER INVITES YOU TO AN ITALIAN FEAST WITH

S.PELLEGRINO

CELEBRATE ITALY’S FINEST FLAVOURS AND FAVOURITE SPARKLING MINERAL WATER WITH A FOUR-COURSE TASTING TOUR AT LONDON’S CAROUSEL RESTAURANT

BOOK NOW: SANPELLEGRINOCNTRAVELLER.EVENTBRITE.CO.UK Join S.Pellegrino as it brings a blast of northern Italy to London next month for the first in a series of Postcards From Italy dinners created especially for Condé Nast Traveller readers. Held at Carousel restaurant in Marylebone, this four-course feast will take guests on a taste tour inspired by recipes from Milan, through Bergamo, Brescia and Verona, to Venice. The menu starts in Italy’s fashion capital, famed for its rich cassoeula – a typical stew which marks the start of winter – and will then gather up some of the region’s finest cheese and cured meats – gorgonzola, taleggio and sopressa salami – before finishing in the Veneto, renowned for its fresh-off-the-boat fish. Each course will be paired with some of the area’s most exciting wines, from sparkling Prosecco and Franciacorta – Italy’s answer to Champagne – to secret, lesser-known stars. And, of course, there will be plenty of S.Pellegrino water, the choice of top chefs and restaurants everywhere. Behind the scenes at Carousel is pop-up specialist the Italian Supper Club, which was founded by Silvio Pezzana and Toto Dell’Aringa in 2011.

The pair are passionate about regional produce and family-run vineyards. This unmissable series of dinners is inspired by S.Pellegrino’s new Itineraries of Taste project, which is packed with insider tips and curated reports on food, style and design around the world. See itinerariesoftaste.sanpellegrino.com

6.30-9.30PM, MONDAY 27 NOVEMBER CAROUSEL, 71 BLANDFORD STREET, MARYLEBONE, LONDON W1U 8AB CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER RESERVES THE RIGHT TO POSTPONE THE EVENT IF RENDERED NECESSARY

BY ANY UNAVOIDABLE CAUSE. TICKETS WILL BE FULLY REFUNDED IN SUCH CASES

Opposite, tables at Carousel, London’s sassiest pop-up venue, where S.Pellegrino and the Italian Supper Club are hosting the feast

166 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

PHOTOGRAPHS: TIM COLE PHOTOGRAPHY

Tickets are £40 and include a welcome drink followed by a four-course dinner with wine pairing and S.Pellegrino water

QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS What’s the strangest meal you’ve had?

‘Ice cream with ants and worms in it. I couldn’t eat it! I was told it would give me extra protein but the taste and texture were so weird.’

O`YlÌk l`] Õjkl l`af_ qgm hY[c7 ‘My cameras. I use a combination of GoPro, a drone, a Nikon DSLR and my phone. If I had to choose just one thing to travel with, it would be my GoPro Hero5.’

L`j]] [gmflja]k qgm oYfl lg nakal Zml `Yn]fÌl Z]]f lg q]l7 ‘South Africa, Australia and New Zealand.’ :]kl hdY[] qgmÌn] ]n]j klYq]\7 ‘The Icehotel in Sweden. I went in January and it was unbelievable. The rooms are very cool (not just literally), but the adventures we had were what made it so unique: ski-touring up a mountain for sunrise, a Swedish sauna in the snow, dinner in the wilderness, husky sledging and driving across the frozen landscape on snowmobiles searching for the Northern Lights.’ <]k]jl akdYf\ Zggc7 ‘Shoe Dog, a memoir by Nike founder Phil Knight.

It’s one of the best things I’ve ever read.’

EVENTS

CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER INVITES YOU TO AN EVENING OF TRAVELLER’S TALES WITH

SOPHIE RADCLIFFE IN ASSOCIATION WITH LONGCHAMP

SHE’S BIKE-RACED ACROSS THE USA, COMPLETED 100KM ULTRA-MARATHONS AND WANTS TO CHAMPION ORDINARY PEOPLE DOING EXTRAORDINARY THINGS. JOIN THE ADVENTURER AT SUPER-SMART BAG BRAND LONGCHAMP’S BOND STREET STORE

BOOK NOW: SOPHIERADCLIFFETRAVELLERSTALES.EVENTBRITE.CO.UK

WORDS: SARAH BARNES. PHOTOGRAPHS: JONATHAN CARTER; TRISTAN SHU

Tickets are £35 and include canapés, a goodie bag and a few glasses of prestige cuvée Armand de Brignac Rosé Champagne served from rare magnums. You can also personalise your own Longchamp luggage tag on the night

Come and listen to the remarkable trailblazer who will be sharing her intrepid stories with Condé Nast Traveller’s contributing editor Michelle Jana Chan at Longchamp’s boutique on Bond Street in London. Driven by the philosophy that we get ‘one life, live it’, Radcliffe quit her City job in 2013.

She started a blog called ChallengeSophie.com, which documents her endeavours worldwide, and since then has cycled from London to Paris in 24 hours nine times, finished a gruelling Ironman twice and completed the Kinabalu race through the Borneo jungle. She is also the first person to have scaled the highest mountain in all eight Alpine countries and biked between each climb, an expedition which saw her cycle 1,700km, complete 151km on foot and ascend 45,500 metres over 32 days. The inspirational sportswoman is also getting other people fired up to escape their everday routine with her TED Talks. What’s more, she helps to empower young people with her work as patron of Team Right To Play and is an ambassador for the Youth Sport Trust. French accessories house Longchamp produces some of the chicest bags around, and its latest, Mademoiselle Longchamp, is created for women who, like Radcliffe, break convention.

6.30–8.30PM, WEDNESDAY 1 NOVEMBER LONGCHAMP, 28 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON W1S 2RJ CONDÉ NAST TRAVELLER RESERVES THE RIGHT TO POSTPONE THE EVENT IF RENDERED NECESSARY

BY ANY UNAVOIDABLE CAUSE. TICKETS WILL BE FULLY REFUNDED IN SUCH CASES. OVER 16S ONLY

November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 169

EVENTS

Guests chilled out at our late-summer brunch in west London fuelled by sparkling wine and piles of classic American pancakes

hamptons brunch

east coasting On a perfectly sunny Saturday, London’s sky-high Pergola On The Roof felt more like a buzzy Hamptons beach hangout for our special event. It was the latest foodie celebration, which have also included a three-course dinner by top chef Stephan Toman at London’s Carousel and wine tasting with Greek canapés at members’ club 67 Pall Mall. At Pergola, atop the former BBC Television Centre in White City, couples, families and friends mingled around the driftwood benches against a backdrop of palm leafs and soft-peach walls. Scott Hunter, of favourite London brunch spot Bad Egg, served up pancakes with fried chicken, glazed bananas and lashings of maple syrup, spicy chilaquiles topped with guacamole, goats’ curd and a fried egg, as well as a hearty deconstructed cheeseburger (minus the bun), with crispy fries and eggs sunny-side-up.

Bar staff carried wooden trays filled with glasses of Nyetimber’s award-winning sparkling wine, and the team at Pergola pumped up the music as guests lingered on until 4pm, draining the last bottles of fizz and whiling away the rest of the bright summer weekend in the capital.

FOR INFORMATION ON MORE EVENTS, VISIT CNTRAVELLER.COM/EVENTS 170 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017

WORDS: SARAH BARNES. PHOTOGRAPHS: EMMA JONES

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Ski

by Gabriella Le Breton

I

Simple pleasures

Happy families

Extreme luxury

2018

t’s that time of year: dropping temperatures and shortening days herald the start of a fresh winter full of mountains to explore, new cheese dishes to discover and feats of sporting heroism to marvel at in the PyeongChang Winter Olympics. Fortunately, there’s plenty of excitement closer to home than South Korea. The Four Seasons will launch its first European mountain property in Megève this December, while La Rosière will welcome the first Hyatt in the French Alps. New chalets keep blossoming, too – pick of the bunch includes Chalet Alta in Chamonix, Chalet Laurus in Lech, Chalet

Alpaca in Méribel, and Chalets La Grande and La Petite Ourse in Morzine. Thanks to operators like Haute Montagne and Consensio, the choice of ultra-luxe B&B chalets is also growing. With all the privacy and comforts of a chalet, plus daily breakfast and afternoon tea deliveries, they leave you the freedom to explore local restaurants. In Val d’Isère, the Arctic House private members’ club is launching its third chalet, Arctic Treehouse. The club’s slick chalets, clean cuisine and member benefits, such as free airport transfers and spa treatments, means this is a top contender on the Christmas present list.

Off the slopes

T R AVEL L ER PA RTN E R SH IP S

Trees covered by fresh snow in the Austrian Alps

Ski

2018

Simple pleasures Stay Snow Safe in Arosa

Colorado Made Easy

Mind Over Matter in Chamonix

Set above a frozen lake and amidst pine forests, Arosa offers postcard perfection as well as a heavy blanket of snow on its lofty slopes. Linked with neighbouring Lenzerheide, the majority of the area’s 140 miles of pistes are suitable for beginners and intermediates, who’ll be spoiled for life by the quiet, manicured slopes and jawdropping views. Stay at the Tschuggen Grand Hotel for the ultimate luxury: a private lift that whisks guests directly from the hotel to the pistes. Handily, it’s almost as easy to get to Arosa – Swiss operates flights from Heathrow and London City to Zürich, from where a scenic train deposits you right in town. tschuggen.ch; swiss.com

Winter Park might lack the fame factor of fellow Colorado resorts Vail, Telluride and Aspen but it has one extremely handy advantage over them: it’s closer to Denver International Airport. For families in particular, the prospect of a long transfer after a transatlantic flight can outweigh the benefits of Colorado’s Champagne powder, excellent ski schools and immaculately groomed yet quiet slopes. Just one-and-a-half-hour’s drive from Denver, however, Winter Park offers all this and more, including affordable ski-in/ski-out accommodation, a family ski area complete with a kiddy tree run, restaurants with special children’s menus and family-friendly activities on and off the slopes. ski-i.com

For skiing with a difference, join former pro skier Jamie Strachan for a three-day Mindful Skiing retreat in Chamonix.

Expect a unique blend of morning meditation by a crackling fire, soulcleansing skiing lead by Strachan, afternoon yoga or Qigong sessions, and evenings spent in the tranquil surroundings of La Ferme du Bois, a centuries old timber chalet tucked in fairytale woods a few minutes’ drive from central Chamonix. To help you achieve complete Zen, Strachan and his team take care of all the details, from wholesome meals to lift passes, ski hire and guiding, leaving you free to focus on your ski flow and downward dog. hipchalets.com

Clockwise from left: The Tschuggen Grand at night; the Tschuggen Express; the Winter Park Colorado; La Ferme du Bois

T R AVEL L ER PA RTN E R SH IP S

Family Paradise La Plagne really is something of a family paradise: part of one of Europe’s largest ski areas, Paradiski, it offers blue slopes galore, English-speaking ski instructors and a large terrain park for budding freestylers. There are also diverse off-slope activities (the bobsleigh run is a must for daredevils) and refreshingly affordable restaurants. British company Ski Beat, with over 30 years’ experience running family-oriented catered chalets in the French Alps, is the La Plagne go-to. It operates 14 chalets here, from six-person chocolate-box chalets to multi-family party pads that sleep up to 22 guests, with prices from £499 per person per week, including flights, transfers and half board. skibeat.co.uk

Clockwise from this image: the foot of the Sassongher mountain; Chalet Florence, La Plagne; sunset view of Dolomites from Sassongher; Chalet Linda

Dolomighty Views

It’s Not All Ritz In Kitz course evening meals with complimentary wine for six days.

*Including: buffet breakfasts, afternoon tea and cake and three-

The Dolomites are the only mountains in the world to have been awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status for their sheer beauty. It is, therefore, essential to spend plenty of time here appreciating them and one of the best places to do that is the Hotel Sassongher.

Feast on antipasti on the hotel’s sunkissed terrace, set at the foot of the towering Sassongher mountain; soak in the outdoor hot tub as the setting sun turns the jagged limestone spires encircling you pink and purple; and sip a Hugo (the local’s favourite cocktail) on your balcony, contemplating the views and safe in the knowledge that the kids are playing with their NBFs in the hotel’s fun-packed playroom. sassongher.it

Lined with frescoed medieval inns, candlelit bars and dirndl shops, Kitzbühel’s snow-blanketed old town is the quintessence of childhood Christmases. In keeping with its genteel nature, the slopes that rise above Kitzbühel are predominantly flattering blues and reds with one notable exception – the Hahnenkamm black piste, known as the world’s toughest downhill ski race. But even the Hahnenkamm mellows after the World Cup, with its own dedicated family route. Enjoy the gentle pace and old-school glamour of Kitz, without the price tag, at the new Chalet Linda, from £594 per person per week, including chalet catering*, flights and transfers. inghams.co.uk

Simple pleasures

OVER THE

ALPS Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impossible not to fall in love with Switzerland. The towering mountains, glittering lakes, iconic ski resorts, cheese and chocolate are just all so TXLQWHVVHQWLDOO\ 6ZLVV ,WÂśV RQO\ ÂżWWLQJ WKHUHIRUH WKDW WKH EHVW ZD\ WR UHDFK DOO this delicious Swissness is with Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national airline, SWISS

N

ational stereotypes are always founded in some truth but Switzerland lives up to its bucolic Heidi image more than most. It is a land of Toblerone-shaped peaks, lush Alpine meadows, sun-blackened timber chalets and remarkably punctual trains, with plenty of cuckoo clocks, watches and Swiss army knives thrown in for good measure.

As Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national airline, it is ďŹ tting that SWISS embodies many of the deďŹ ning characteristics of its homeland. Punctuality, efďŹ ciency, cleanliness and polite service that you can take for granted with Switzerlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trains, hotels and restaurants are guaranteed on a SWISS ďŹ&#x201A;ight. Each of the 144 weekly ďŹ&#x201A;ights from London to Switzerland see guests welcomed on board a scrupulously clean plane and offered a complimentary drink, sandwich and chocolate bar. Fly SWISS and your holiday starts on the runway.

*Same day delivery charges apply to flights landing after 11.30am, or 1pm for some resorts. **One pair of skis or one snowboard; one pair of ski or snowboard boots; and two ski poles travel free of charge, in addition to standard baggage allowance. Availability is limited. ***Hand-luggage only fare, ski equipment transport not included. All prices quoted are one-way per person, including airport taxes and surcharges departing from London Heathrow to Geneva; correct at time of production; subject to availability, change and exchange rate variations. On some payment methods a 1.65% charge may apply.

T R AVEL L ER PA RTN E R SH IP S

Winter wonderland Wintersports fans from across the world consider Switzerland to be the true home of Alpine holidays.

Claiming the majority of the 4,000m peaks in the Alps and many of the world’s best-loved ski resorts – Zermatt, St Moritz, Verbier and Davos-Klosters amongst them – Switzerland is the geographical and spiritual heart of the Alps. Regular daily SWISS flights place countless mountain resorts right at your fingertips, inviting you to explore new gems and rediscover old favourites. To name but a few, Verbier, Gstaad and Villars are all within two hours’ drive of Geneva while Klosters, Engelberg, and Flims-LAAX each lie under two hours’ drive from Zürich. But why not hop on a Swiss train and soak up the views of snowy mountains reflected in lakes as you whizz through the countryside. You can even let Swiss Rail save you the hassle of carrying your luggage around – the Fly & Rail system enables you to arrange for your hold luggage to be scooped up from the aircraft and delivered to your resort the very same day for no additional cost*.

Hassle free travel Honouring Switzerland’s Alpine heritage, SWISS is the firmly established airline of choice for wintersports lovers, not only delivering them to the heart of the Alps but also offering free ski or snowboard carriage with its Economy Classic fares. Yes, that is correct – ‘free’ is a rare word in today’s

world of no-frills airlines so we’ll clarify: that’s you, enjoying a tasty snack on your way to the Swiss Alps, not having to worry at all as your skis/ board, boots and poles are all stowed below, for a mere £74**.

Should you choose not to travel with full ski equipment, taking advantage of the excellent rental shops in Switzerland’s diverse resorts instead, you could opt for the best value SWISS ticket option, Economy Light. This enables you to travel to Geneva with hand luggage from only £60*** – perfect for a minibreak to the Alps. And, thanks to the nifty SWISS app, you can check in and download your boarding pass up to 24 hours before your flight, enabling you to skip past the check-in queues and stroll straight out of the airport upon arrival to pick up your resort transfer.

Just as Switzerland packs an extraordinary bounty of history, culture and natural features into a relatively small area, SWISS flies to over 100 destinations across 43 countries with its fleet of 95 planes yet remains small enough to provide all guests with individual care. In line with Switzerland’s long dedication to the environment, SWISS is committed to reducing environmental impact, having significantly reduced its CO2 emissions since 2003 through the development of new aircraft types, lighter materials, and improved flight processes. swiss.com

The only way to fly In a country where exceptional is normal, SWISS truly is made of Switzerland and the only way to travel to the heart of the Alps.

Clockwise from far left: a Swiss village at winter; a freeskier; flying over the mountains; travelling in style; a mountain forest; a snowboarder

TR AV E L L E R PARTN E RS HIPS

Ski

2018

Happy families

Clockwise from this image: Sitting room at Le Chardon's La Bergerie chalet; Chemmy Ski camps; Le Chardon’s tub

Club Med On Snow Trusty family stalwart Club Med is launching a brand new property this winter, the ski-in/ski-out Grand Massif Samoëns Morillon. Set on a dramatic plateau at the heart of France’s fourth largest ski area, the Grand Massif, the all-inclusive property is conveniently located just over an hour’s transfer from Geneva. On top of 360º mountain views, three restaurants and a Carita spa, the resort offers all the Club Med benefits we love, including complimentary childcare for little ones from four months to boisterous 17-year-olds, friendly staff and large bedrooms actually built with families in mind. clubmed.co.uk

Nurturing Your Little Champs It’s sad but true: the moment will come when your kids start skiing better than you. On the plus side, it’s the perfect moment to pass them over to the experts, enabling them to maximise their potential and learn skills they’ll have for life. And who better to teach your budding champs than new parents themselves, Olympic skier Chemmy Alcott and her husband Dougie Crawford? The dream team head up CDC Performance, hosting children’s

(and adults) ski camps across the Alps.

The Christmas and New Year Zinal High Altitude camp (16 Dec – 7 Jan) keeps the kids happy and busy over the holidays, leaving you free to enjoy the great skiing and tranquillity of Zinal. cdcperform.com

Family Fun In Val Val d’Isère requires little introduction: one of the world’s best resorts, it ticks pretty much every box, from a huge ski area and reliable snow to fabulous restaurants and lively après-ski. With such universal appeal, it’s ideal for multi-generational ski holidays, particularly if you gather the clan at Val’s largest single chalet, Le Chardon. Sleeping 20 guests in a tranquil enclave with a hot tub and terrace overlooking the Manchet valley, Le Chardon’s friendly staff will arrange childcare, healthy but fun kids’ dinners, themed evenings and snowman-building competitions.

They even provide children’s dressing gowns and slippers and will save you the job of picking up wayward teenagers from nightclubs… lechardonvaldisere.com

Bespoke Winter Holidays since 1929.

World Luxury Hotel Award “Winner Luxury Mountain Resort 2016” Golden Panther Award “Winner Icon of the year 2017” Fallstaff Restaurant Guide “Best Hotel-Restaurant 2017”

s Lech am Arlberg, Austria www.almhof.at

TR AV E L L E R PARTN E RS HIPS

Ski

2018

Teen Spirit Verbier is widely recognised as a dream resort for powder hounds and party animals, but it’s also a great option for families, particularly those with older children. There are nursery slopes for beginners; teen-specific ski and snowboard camps; and Les Elfes activity camps, which blend ski and snowboard classes with language classes and educational après-ski activities for children aged seven to 18 years. Win instant brownie points with your kids by staying at the family-friendly Hôtel Montpelier, which has its own burger bar and ski shop as well as spacious two- and three-bedroom apartments. montpelierverbier.ch

Get Ready For No.5 Les Gets is a long-established family favourite thanks to its atmospheric town, short transfer from Geneva (just over an hour’s drive) and direct access to the vast Portes du Soleil ski area. This winter, the resort welcomes the swanky No.5 Clef des Champs penthouse apartment, set to become the hottest address for glamorous families. Set in the heart of town, just paces from the nearest ski lift and Les Gets’ boutiques and bars, No.5 features three spacious double bedrooms, a quad bunkroom and wraparound balconies. It’s just made for dropping the kids with the chalet staff while you swap ski boots for moonboots and pop out for some après-ski drinks. abercrombiekent.co.uk

Go Scandi With Crystal Good news for lovers of all things Scandi: Crystal Ski is launching holidays to Sweden’s largest resort, Åre, this winter.

With its cute town and winter wonderland scenery, Åre (pronounced ‘aura’) is a no-brainer for families, thanks to its reliable snow conditions, particularly over Easter, stacks of intermediate terrain and dedicated park jumping and off-piste classes for teenagers. In keeping with the whole ‘effortlessly cool’ Scandi thing, Åre’s hotels, restaurants and bars are chic but understated and the food is healthy and delicious. Introduce the kids to reindeer and lingonberry pizza and they’ll never look back. crystalski.co.uk

Happy families Clockwise from top: Montpelier Hotel, Verbier; skier at Åre, Sweden; No 5 Clef des Champs; Mistral Kids Gallery at Val d’Isère

WHERE GENERATIONS MEET. SINCE 1896.

Majestic and elegant, in the centre of St. Moritz, at the heart of the Swiss Alps.

This is where you find the Badrutt’s Palace Hotel. Legendary, unique and distinctive!

Since 1896 guest wishes have been anticipated and fulfilled, however great they may have seemed. With us you are the guest and warmly welcomed.

Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, Via Serlas 27, 7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland Telephone: +41 (0)81 837 1000, Fax: +41 (0)81 837 2999, Reservations: +41 (0)81 837 1100, reservations@badruttspalace.com, @BadruttsPalace www.badruttspalace.com,

TR AV E L L E R PARTN E RS HIPS

Ski

2018

Extreme luxury

Clockwise from this image: Haute Montagne’s Chalet Elbrus, Zermatt; Cheval Blanc at Courchevel; skier at Shades of Winter; Chalet Elbrus, Zermatt

Not-So-Simple Pleasures

Girl Power

Twin Peaks

Nestled amongst pine trees on the pistes of Courchevel’s highly desirable ‘Jardin Alpin’ enclave, Cheval Blanc is a microcosm of all things luxury.

The refined ‘maison’ offers mountain comforts, such as a ski room staffed by dapper young gentlemen who warm your boots before slipping them onto your feet, and a heavenly Guerlain spa with signature après-ski treatments.

Other ‘simple’ pleasures abound: a sun-drenched terrace on which to feast on lobster salad and Beluga caviar, a sultry bar with killer cocktails, and 34 to-die-for bedrooms with 48 amenities each, from baby-soft cashmere throws and full-size custom toiletries to designer flip-flops. chevalblanc.com

It’s one thing to watch your ski heroines nailing Alaskan spines on glossy extreme ski films, but it’s quite another to actually ski with them in real life.

The inspirational professional skiers behind the women-only extreme ski movies, Shades Of Winter, will be hosting three ski camps this winter for strong female skiers. The camps will take place in Switzerland, Austria and Canada and offer a unique opportunity to ski with some of the world’s best female freeskiers who will help you improve your freeride skills and mountain safety knowledge.

The Canada camp will throw in the added bonus of heli-skiing with Stellar Heliskiing for extra bragging rights. shades-of-winter.com

Ultra-luxury operator Haute Montagne is launching the fantastically off-the-scale Twin Peaks holiday this winter – a whirl of helicopters, husky-drawn sleds and one-off culinary and cultural events in two of Switzerland’s most glamorous resorts, Zermatt and Verbier. Happily, the stress of switching resorts halfway through your holiday is minimised by travelling between them by helicopter and having butlers to do all your packing and unpacking (using acidfree gold tissue paper). Other perks include a dedicated ski instructor for the week; a private mountain picnic with oysters, cocktails and live music; a private dinner by two Michelin-starred-chef Ivo Adam; and simply staying in Haute Montagne’s incredible chalets. hautemontagne.com

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For The Skier Who Has Everything Like a bespoke suit, a pair of skis tailored precisely to the individual is a luxury or a necessity, depending on whom you ask. For the serious and/or kit-obsessed skier, a pair of bespoke skis, entirely handmade to meet their unique requirements, represents the very pinnacle of necessary luxury and the key to endlessly epic ski days. Enter the ski tailor of London, James Mechie, who lovingly cajoles strips of bamboo into Nix Snowsport skis and snowboards, adding custom designs and tweaks to adapt to his clients’ height, weight, leg length and riding style. Costs start from £495 for a snowboard and £795 for skis. nixsnowsports.com

Flying Chefs We love skiing for many reasons, one of which has to be the free pass it grants us to double our daily calorie intake.

Imagine our delight, therefore, when we heard about Scott Dunn’s new ‘Flying Chefs’ concept, which seriously raises the culinary bar. Book a Scott Dunn chalet in Courchevel, Val d’Isère, St Anton or Lech and then select one chef from a truly stellar line-up (Monica Galetti, Sat Bains, Pierre Koffmann,

Clockwise from top: Scott Dunn offers Flying chefs at Val d’Isère; the pool at the Almhof Schneider, Lech; the living room at Amourette, Val d’Isère; Siren handmade skis

Alyn Williams, Andrew Wong and Mauro Colagreco) who will be flown out to your chalet to cook one incredible private dinner party. With prices from £14,000 per meal, it’s certainly a memorable, if not cheap, way to cope with the chalet staff ’s night off. scottdunn.com

Family Business The Almhof Schneider is a snow globe of wintery perfection: an ancient farmhouse set in snowy meadows dotted with fir trees in the glamorous Austrian resort of Lech. The Schneider family home since 1451, the last four generations have operated it as a skiin/ski-out hotel since 1929, creating a cocoon in which you’ll find traditional touches like fire-warmed, fir-panelled suites, lustworthy antiques and a cheeky cherub or two peeping out above your woollen headboard. Clever, contemporary design features like the super slick spa, private cinema and palatial bathrooms keep it all fresh and unstuffy, much like the modern Alpine cuisine served in the two restaurants, which have won nearly as many awards as the wine cellar. almhof.at

Extreme luxury

TR AV E L L E R PARTN E RS HIPS

2018

Off the slopes

Rockies Road Trip For all the eye-popping beauty of the Canadian Rockies in winter without, necessarily, going skiing, join the Flight Centre’s new eight-day Winter In The Rockies tour. Taking in the very best of the dramatic mountain range, you’ll enjoy a sleigh ride and helicopter tour in Banff, go dogsledding in Lake Louise and drive along one of the world’s most scenic roads, the Icefields Parkway. flightcentre.co.uk

Getting Hygge In The Cotswolds For all the fire-warmed comfort of a cosy timber chalet without the hassle of travel, look no further than the Cotswolds.

Set within a 130-acre nature reserve, the family-owned Log House Holidays comprises eight secluded, Scandi-style log

Alpine Culture Happily for culture vultures, it’s now possible to combine the serenity of the mountains with lashings of art, music and poetry readings. Find this rare combo in the sleepy St Christoph, a smattering of chalets centred around the Alberg Hospiz Hotel that’s a short ski over from its more famous neighbour St Anton. What started as a shelter for travelling pilgrims has been transformed into a plush hotel with several restaurants and a spa plus the world’s highest art centre. Set in a strikingly modern building, linked to the Hospiz by underground walkway, the centre comprises a 200-seat concert hall and intimate music room, which host a mix of classical, jazz and modern music concerts, recitals and readings, as well as two contemporary art galleries, all blissfully free to hotel guests. arlberg1800resort.at

cabins dotted on the shores of a large lake. Equipped with woodburners, squishy sofas and board games, the cabins are the definition of hygge. Each comes with its own stash of firewood, a hot tub and rowing boat with kayaks, stand-up paddle boards and bicycles up for grabs too. loghouseholidays.co.uk

Ski The Walk Set yourself the challenge of a lifetime and join breast cancer charity Walk The Walk’s Arctic Marathon. Over the course of six days, you’ll travel deep into the Arctic Circle to cross-country ski a marathon distance across pristine winter wonderland (no ski experience needed!). Husky sledding, snowmobiling, Northern Lights spotting, and a night in the Icehotel are all part of the adventure. walkthewalk.org

Clockwise from top: Lake Louise, Alberta, with Flight Centre; arlberg1800 resort sauna; pet friendly Log House Holidays; Walk the Walk's Arctic marathon

David Churchill

Ski

condenastjohansens.com The Chedi Andermatt, Switzerland

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LUXURY TAKEOVER

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RIKRAK hand cream, £15, firmdalehotels.com/ shop-firmdale

SAIL AWAY If you're searching for some winter sun, hop on one of the regular, direct flights from London to Barbados and make sure you are there 16-24 January 2018 to catch the 82nd annual Mount Gay Round Barbados Race Series regatta.

Join the thousands that gather at vantage points around the island to watch three days of coastal racing, including the 60nm Round Barbados, an exhibition polo match, a tour and tasting at the Mount Gay Distillery and the legendary Mount Gay Rum Red Cap party. mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com

CHAMPAGNE ARMAND DE BRIGNAC Blanc de Blancs, £600, armanddebrignac.com

Barbados sailing photo by Peter Marshall

Tune in to Condé Nast Traveller’s decadent state of mind with some of the latest experiences, places to stay and style and beauty picks

A NIGHT ON THE TOWN Bunga Bunga Covent Garden has two faces. BungaTINI on the ground floor is an authentic all-day family friendly Italian pizzeria and bar; a brilliant pre-theatre dinner venue. Look a little closer and located in the far corner of BungaTINI is a secret door to a meat locker. Venture through to find an all-singing all-dancing supper club hidden beneath the streets. bungabunga-london.com

Paul Andrew 'Maude' velvet loafers, £525, net-a-porter.com

THIS MONTH'S HIGH FLYER

HOW TO WEAR

autumn Chloé ruffled lace-trimmed silk-organza midi skirt, £1,695, neta-porter.com

Fendi 'Iridia' cat-eye sunglasses, £310, net-a-porter.com

MACACHA Plant Protein Shake, £32 for 500g, available at Wholefoods

Full of goodness

FOUR DELICIOUS DRINKS

Cloe Cassandro 'Ellory' shirt in Indian Gold, £243, cloecassandro.com

HOTEL CHOCOLAT Raspberry & cacao flavour chilled teolat, £2.50, available in store

THE NED, LONDON

from Valentino embroidered wool-blend sweater, £1,585, net-aporter.com

EVIAN fruits & plants in grape & rose, £1.79, available at Boots

ZINGER in organic ginger, £1.49 per 7cl shot, available at Waitrose

HEAD CONCIERGE

ALEX MAAROUFI What made you want to become a concierge? I started on the front desk at St Martins Lane. After six months they wanted me to become the manager, but I had set my sights on the beautiful Louis XIVstyle concierge desk!

What is your biggest challenge?

There has never been anything like The Ned in London – we’re talking 252 bedrooms, a members club and nine restaurants. Every day presents a challenge but we love it and embrace it.

What is your latest London discovery? Temper City is really good – they’ve got a friendly team and it’s effortlessly cool. The food is so fresh and I think they have about 30 gins!

How would you describe the hotel’s style? It’s the 1930s yanked into 2017.

What are you most looking forward to this year?

Soho House Mumbai is going to be massive. thened.com

W OST WANTED AN INDIAN RETREAT ITC Grand Bharat near New Delhi, India is a Luxury Collection wellness and golf retreat spread over 300 acres. One could pass days at Kaya Kalp – The Royal Spa – alone. It offers world-renowned Ila treatments and has a resident Ayurvedic doctor who helps you choose the unique spa therapies based on your body type and hamam treatments, among others. For a complete experience, embark on one of the wellness retreats, relax into some yoga and guided meditation or pamper yourself at Salon di Wills. itchotels.in

BRIGGS & RILEY Sympatico 4-Wheel Expandable Large Suitcase in Onyx, £529, johnlewis.com ANNOUSHKA Flamenco 18ct white gold, diamond and mother of pearl earrings, £17,800, annoushka.com

100 YEARS OF SAMBA Get in the Samba spirit with Havaiana's limited edition kit celebrating 100 years since the first recording of the iconic music. It features a pair of Havaianas flip flops, classic beer glasses and the musical instrument so associated with Samba: the match box.

From £40, exclusive to Selfridges London.

THE BELVEDERE SPRITZ • 1 oz / 30ml Belvedere Vodka • 1 oz / 30ml Lillet Blanc • 2 Grapefruit slices • 1 Sprig of thyme Top with equal parts of sparkling water and FeverTree tonic water. Combine all ingredients in a glass over ice.

Garnish with a grapefruit slice and a sprig of thyme.

Belvedere Vodka 70cl, £38, clos19.com

THE LUXURY TRAVEL FAIR This autumn, come and visit us at The Luxury Travel Fair for our insider tips on the hottest new destinations, along with a carefully curated selection of the finest travel experiences.

Listen to Giles Coren, Tristan Gooley and Chadden Hunter, among others, who will be interviewed in the Meet the Experts Theatre; enjoy an exclusive dining experience with Mosimann’s and enjoy a glass of bubbly in the Louis Roederer Champagne Bar while planning your next getaway with some of the most influential experts in the travel industry. The fair takes place at Olympia London from 2-5 November. To claim a pair of complimentary tickets (subject to a booking fee of £2.50 per ticket), simply quote 'CNTREADER' when booking online at luxurytravelfair.com

WHITSUNDAY BLISS The Whitsunday Bliss is the latest luxury vessel to enter the Whitsundays, a three-day fully skippered tour that ticks off the Whitsunday wish list. With room for six guests and two crew, you'll set sail among the 74 island wonders at the Whitsundays – snorkelling or diving the reef by day and dining on gourmet meals prepared by the crew on board by night. Charter the yacht on a private basis and you can choose a tailor-made itinerary, select departure times and choose your destinations. From $8,950 for three days and two nights on a private charter basis (which can be a three day sail to a week or more). whitsundaybliss.com

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On The Move...Down The Piste

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Hidden in the Cretan nature, Kapsaliana Village Hotel rewrites its history.

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IN THE HEART OF ROME

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November 2017 Condé Nast Traveller 199

THE VIEW FROM HERE BELMOND ANDEAN EXPLORER, PERU Perhaps it’s the way the honey-hued light hits the vast Andean peaks, or it could be the head-spinning altitude, but this particular railway journey from Arequipa to Cusco (reaching nearly 4,500 metres above sea level) is breath-stealing. Not only is it a continent win (as South America’s first high-end sleeper train), but the route it follows hasn’t been used by anything but cargo carriers since the 1970s.

While Belmond’s Hiram Bingham train has been taking passengers on day trips from Cusco to Machu Picchu since 1999; this ride is much less known. Hop off to see the Inca site of Raqchi, meet the Uros tribe on Lake Titicaca in their floating, reed-walled homes, and have a lunch of fresh rainbow trout, quinoa and purple Andean potatoes made by islanders on remote Taquile. On board the Andean Explorer, all 24 cabins are impressively large and the restaurant car is straight out of an on-trend NYC brasserie, with deep crimson leather chairs and bare lightbulbs dangling from exposed steel girders. In the Piano Bar (yes, there’s a baby grand), pops of colour are provided by fuchsia-pink and dandelion-yellow cushions woven from Peruvian sheep’s wool. Ask Miguel to whip up a Pisco Sour and you’ll be setting it down on a restored vintage trunk. The design is so absurdly, extraordinarily slick and sensational you’ll forget you’re on a train at all. The only reminder is a more-than-gentle rocking at bedtime. HARRIET JONES Scott Dunn (scottdunn.com) offers a 14-night Peru trip from £7,500 per person, including two nights on the Andean Explorer and international flights

200 Condé Nast Traveller November 2017