Budapest's In The Summer 2015 by Budapest Brand Nonprofit Zrt.

2015. Vol. 2. HUF 1490 â&#x20AC;˘ EUR 5

Summer sensations on the banks of the blue Danube

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Introduction Dear Reader,

Dear Guest, Budapest’s beauty, its recently built cultural institutes and architectural heritage manages to surprise even a former tour guide such as myself. Owing to its enchanting multi-faceted nature, historic buildings and unparalleled richness in programme offerings, Budapest is more than deserving of the country’s touristic slogan: Hungary – more, than expected. Budapest’s lively culture, from street food to fine dining, promises a wide variety of culinary delights and shopping opportunities. Additionally, Budapest is the only capital in the world that can claim to also be a spa city, due to its rich abundance of thermal waters. After an active day of sightseeing has worn you out, unwind in one of the myriad thermal baths dotted across the capital. The city is also one of Europe’s most exciting festival cities: the Summer Festival stretching into the end of August offers more than 100 programmes for children and adults alike. Budapest is also very popular for business trips and conferences, with plans to expand in this area by 2018: a congress centre with a capacity of 4000 will be built along the Danube’s banks. Culture lovers will be pleased to learn that a new development in the City Park in collaboration with famous architects will see the creation of Europe’s largest museum quarter, titled Liget Budapest. We hope you enjoy your stay in our beloved capital and hope that you visit us again. Trust me, it’s like a new experience every time! Dr. Ádám Ruszinkó Deputy State Secretary for Tourism, Ministry for National Economy

Vibrant Budapest offers exciting programmes throughout the year, but it is during the summer months that the city truly comes alive! Of the annual four million visitors, three million are tourists, and of this two-thirds visit Budapest during the summer months. The metropolis that bustles around the clock showcases its unparalleled natural and architectural wonders best during the summer. The Danube is not only a sight during the summer, but also something of a living space, for the stationed resort, pleasure and function boats offer exciting programmes that can only be experienced in Budapest. The flowing river and gorgeous bridges that stretch over it from Buda to Pest offer an unparalleled view, while the river hugs the city’s green heart – Margaret Island – considered one of Europe’s best meeting points of nature, culture and sports. In summer stars perform beneath the leafy trees on the Margaret Island Open-air Stage as part of the Budapest Summer Festival. All tastes are catered for, as both light-hearted and more serious performances can be found on the programme. Speaking of islands, the Sziget Festival, recognised as Europe’s best, is an August event that cannot be missed. For sports fans, this year will see the 30th Hungarian Grand Prix in Formula 1 racing, as well as the opportunity to be mesmerised by the aerial acrobatics of the Red Bull Air Race in July. In terms of relaxation, Budapest’s world famous medicinal baths will let you recharge your batteries. Come and snap your best selfie this summer in Budapest! Teodóra Bán Director of Budapest Festival and Tourism Center

Published by BTFK Nonprofit Kft. } 1052 Budapest, Városház utca 9–11. } Tel: +36 1 486 3300 } email: marketing@budapestinfo.hu Published seasonally Responsible Publisher } Teodóra Bán, Manager Publishing Director } Diána Monostori } Publication Manager } István Práczky Responsible Editor } Mária Albert Layout } István Práczky } Photo Management / Coverphoto } MitteComm Kft. Advertising } Mária Sali Printing } Pátria Nyomda Zrt. All images, texts, graphics and design elements are subject to copyright. Reproduction, use or imitation is not authorised without permission by law and is subject to criminal liability. The publication can be ordered via the publisher’s address. } Advertising: hirdetes@budapestinfo.hu } Tel: +36 1 486 3309 ISSN 2064-9894

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TARTALOM

2015|Summer

Park in the heart of the city

Park in the heart of the city } 4 The island with many names } 6 Stars beneath a canopy of trees } 9 Where Worlds Meet } 12 Luxury Hotel with political flavour } 13 By the will of the greatest Hungarian } 15

Budapest, the aquatic sports city } 18

A swimming palace beneath a billowing roof } 20 Spa City Budapest } 22 Bathers and swimmers } 23 Kopaszi Dam } 24

The aquatic sports city

High octane pursuits } 26

At high speed

Formula 1 in the sky } 28 The Hungarian Grand Prix turns 30 } 30 Mini Republic of Culture } 35

City Guide } 38 Boats on the Danube } 40 A38 } 41 Golf } 42 Classic Bites with Modern Techniques } 44 Creative Corner} 46 Programme Calendar } 47 Good to know } 48

Boats on the Danube To see the location on the map, simply scan the QR code with your smartphone

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Photo ÂŠ BFTK photostock

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a park in the heart of the city Margaret Island Europe’s second longest river the Danube (2840 km) divides Budapest in two as it hugs the 96.5 hectare Margaret Island, the capital’s green heart. Among the sacred medieval relics in the grand park, visitors can stroll along the Artist Walkway among the statues of famous Hungarians. Pools, sporting facilities, hotels, bars, small animals and a rose garden await guests. Margaret Island belongs to nature and sports enthusiasts, for apart from the small parking lot at its northern tip, cars are not permitted on the island. Aside from public buses, the only modes of transportation allowed on the island are bikes and pedal-powered “bringo carts”.

} A dance of water, light and sound

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Reopened in 2014, the musical fountain at Margaret Island’s southern end entertains visitors day and night.

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Park in the heart of the city

The island

with many names Text: G yörgyi O rbán

Photo © BFTK photostock

It has been called the Island of Lords, Saint Andrew, Our Lady and later the Island of Rabbits, being unofficially referred to as the Palatine Island in the 19th century, for Archduke Joseph of the House of Habsburg, the Palatine of Hungary, became the owner of the island. The island has been called Margaret Island after the daughter of King Béla IV since 1809. Princess Margaret was born in 1242 in Klis Fortress northeast of Split in Dalmatia, today the southern part of Croatia. Béla IV had fled with his family to the fortress from the invading Mongols. In the hopes of returning home, Béla IV offered his daughter to the service of God, and Margaret was raised by Dominican nuns.

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Park in the heart of the city

Photo © Csizik Balázs – MitteComm

Richard Wagner attended the May Day celebrations in 1863. The residence later became a hotel, where famous Hungarian writers such as János Arany, Mór Jókai, Gyula Krúdy and Ferenc Molnár spent their summers.

The ruins of the Franciscan monastery reveal where it once stood at the end of the 13th century. Today visitors can view the relatively large ruin garden from the metal walkways that span above it. The Palatine of Hungary, Archduke Joseph, had an aristocratic summer residence built for his first wife Grand Duchess Alexandra Pavlovna of Russia, using part of the monastery’s surviving northern wall. They used Vienna’s Schönbrunn Palace as a model, hosting festivities and balls for the aristocrats who visited the island. Legend has it that the composer

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Photo © BFTK photostock

Princess Margaret lived on the Island of Rabbits in the convent established by Dominican monks until her death in 1270. The Catholic Church canonised her in 1943, and a coloured marble plate marks her grave among the convent’s ruins. Premonstratensians (also known as Norbertines) also lived on the island. The provostship’s Saint Michael chapel, which was built in a purely Romanesque style in the 12th century, was discovered by archaeologists in 1923. A faithful replica was built on these foundations, with the tower housing Hungary’s oldest bell dating from the 15th century.

Margaret Island medieval ruins and historic sites

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Park in the heart of the city

Photo © BFTK photostock

The neo-renaissance styled Saint Margaret Medicinal Spa opened its doors in 1873. It was seriously damaged in World War II, and in its place the Health Spa Resort Margitsziget has stood since 1979. The Margaret Island Casino was also built according to plans by Miklós Ybl from 1868-1869, utilising the Palatine’s farm buildings near the island’s southern end, where the horse-drawn tram had its terminus. Today it houses the Holdudvar restaurant and nightclub. Margaret Island was only reachable by boat until 1900, when the Margaret Bridge’s wing leading to the island was built. Up until 1919, tickets were required to enter the island. The art nouveau water tower was completed in 1913, built according to plans by Szilárd Zielenszky and made from reinforced concrete, which was still considered revolutionary in the first decades of the 20th century. The Palatinus Beach opened in 1921 according to plans by István Janáky Sr. Before its entrance stands Géza Csorba’s statue, entitled “Sunbathing Girl”. The National Swimming Stadium, the country’s first roofed swimming pool, was designed by Alfréd Hajós, and opened in 1930. The Musical Well is a 1936 reproduction of the original that once stood in Marosvásárhely (today Târgu Mures in Romania) built by the multi-talented Péter Bodor of Székely

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} Animal sanctuary on an island paradise

The Pet Zoo on Margaret Island is located on the island’s eastern side, a short walk from the rose garden. It received its current appearance in 2002, at which time the Budapest Zoo and Botanical Garden took over its operations. The grounds are half a hectare in area and contain a total of 150 animals – five species of mammal and 22 species of bird. Half of the grounds offer a home to fallow dear, one of the animals typically found in Renaissance era game preserves, which is when the animal became indigenous to Hungary. The other part primarily houses water fowl, poultry, and several peacocks. The population also includes Rabbits, which allegedly once gave the island its former name, are free to roam about the grounds as they please. The zoo also contains ponies, which can be ridden when the zoo is open to visitors. A few rescued animals have also found a new home at the petting zoo on Margaret Island, among them storks and various birds of prey. The grounds were planned in such a way that all animals can be viewed from the paths that wind around the zoo. The zoo is open to guests from mid-April to mid-October and the entrance has an honesty box with the proceeds going towards the zoo’s upkeep.

origin. The Musical Fountain near Margaret Bridge, the country’s largest, has operated since 1962 and shoots streams of water up to 15 metres in the sky. Between 1 May and 31 October, in addition to the visual spectacle, selections from the works of Vivaldi, Verdi and Brahms can be heard between 10 in the morning until 10 in the evening, among more modern songs. Photo © Csizik Balázs – MitteComm

Photo © szabadter.hu

While drilling on the island’s western shore at the end of 1866, the mining engineer Vilmos Zsigmondy came across 42 degree thermal waters at a depth of 1200 metres. The idea to develop a spa island originates from this discovery. Palatine Joseph entrusted Miklós Ybl, the era’s foremost architect, with construction of a medicinal spa, two restaurants and several villas. (At the time a pint of medicinal water cost 25 kreuzer, compared to 10 kreuzer for a pint of beer, with an average day’s wages amounting to 1.5 forints, or 150 kreuzer.)

Photo © BFTK photostock

The Artist Walkway was planned by the landscape architect Mihály Môcsényi in 1963. Today 40 famous Hungarians, among them the poets Endre Ady and Sándor Petôfi, the painter Mihály Munkácsy, the architects Ödön Lechner and Miklós Ybl and the composers Ferenc Liszt, Béla Bartók and Zoltán Kodály have statues on the path near the great meadow. Palatine Joseph’s name is associated with the introduction of 300 tree species to the island, among them the sycamore, oak, dawn redwood and swamp cypress. The Ministry of Human Capacities declared Margaret Island a national monument in 2011 as a landscape garden.

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Park a város szívében

Photo © szabadter.hu

Stars beneath a canopy of trees Text: Z suzsa M átraházi

The establishment of the theatre – built according to the plans of renowned architect Péter Kaffka – was a milestone in terms of culture and tourism. The programme guide was also published in English and German at that time, however, due to the high ticket prices, the Hungarian part of the audience came only from the upper classes. Performances were in Hungarian, but the repertoire consisted of plays well-known all across Europe, as well as easy to follow musical plays and operas. Appearance was important: to promote the performances, a flag was raised on top of the Water Tower, just like in the Globe Theatre in London.

Photo © szabadter.hu

The Margaret Island Open-air Stage, built in a park and opened in 1938, is considered a fantastic idea and an excellent piece of architecture by architects even today. The cloister around the tallest water tower in the country, and the 3,500 seat auditorium that spreads out like a fan are very appealing. A 50-metre deep stage was designed for this area surrounded by plants and beautiful old trees.

“Despite the unpleasant, cold weather, a large, almost 2,000 strong audience turned out” - says the contemporary report about the opening night on 18 June 1938. A Midsummer Night’s Dream by Shakespeare was performed by the company of the National Theatre, with some of the leading stars of the period, Margit Lukács and Gyula

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Park in the heart of the city

Photo © szabadter.hu

sound... Whoever chose this location for a stage, he was an expert” – a report said about János Vitéz (John the Valiant), the operetta by Pongrác Kacsóh. It was a spectacular production. The protagonist, Kukorica Jancsi had a vivacious shepherd dog and a real flock of sheep in the battle scene where Hungarian hussars fight with the French army, fierce horses ran through the stage, and the puppet representing the wicked stepmother was flown up to the top of the water tower.

Photo © szabadter.hu

The leading artists of the time performed or directed plays on Margaret Island, and in the third season, a guest artist joined the company: Hans Meissner, General Intendant of the State Theatres in Frankfurt, directed William Tell by Friedrich Schiller. During the Second World War, concert-like opera productions, concerts and folk art performances were staged instead of grand productions with many characters. Accord-

Photo © szabadter.hu

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ing to the Hungarian Theatre Museum and Institute, the year 1943 was an exception: this was when the renowned composer, Szabolcs Fényes was appointed director of the open-air stage, and he made a magnificent and spectacular production of The Merry Widow, the operetta by Ferenc Lehár. The flag advertising the shows was not hoisted on the Water Tower in the summer of 1944. The stage was completely destroyed in the bombing campaign. It was reopened on 6 August 1949, after renovations. The orchestral pit and the formerly grassy stage were covered with boards. The farewell concert of Otto Klemperer was here in 1950, and he conducted Beethoven’s 9th Symphony. Between 1952 and 1962, this was the summer stage of the Hungarian State Opera, the main part of the programme consisted of the plays in Rost Andrea the repertoire of the the& Andrea Caré atre in Andrássy Avenue. Photo © szabadter.hu

Gózon. It was directed by the first director of the open-air stage, Antal Németh. Thanks to him, we have some idea about this first period, as he shot footage of the rehearsals on 8mm film. As the stage merged almost undetectably with the natural environment of Margaret Island, and the orchestra was situated in an orchestra pit dug into the ground, the management preferred plays set in a forest. Shakespeare’s As You Like It and The Tempest were also performed for example, and in A Midsummer Night’s Dream, fairies danced among the trees to Mendelssohn’s music. “The acoustics of the place are excellent. The elevated auditorium, the tower with the balcony behind it, and the large trees opposite the auditorium and on both sides seem to be perfect surfaces for absorbing

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Park in the heart of the city Photo © szabadter.hu / Márk Morvai

From the 1960s, foreign guest singers performed in the open-air prose performances. In 2014, the company of the renowned theatre, e.g. Gábor Carelli from the Metropolitan in New York; Globe Theatre performed Hamlet on the open-air stage, with a Jeanette Pilou and Gianbattista Daviu performed in Madame full house in both evenings. Butterfly, and Salvatore Puma and Franco Piva appeared in The open-air theatre performs its own productions in coopthe Cavalleria Rusticana – Pagliacci performances. American eration with the companies of permanent theatres. Andrea singer Margaret Tynes took the stage here several times. The Rost appeared in a new role, as Madame Butterfly in 2013, first Hungarian performance of Attila, the opera by Verdi, was and her partner was Andrea Caré. The Italian tenor, Rubens directed by Giancarlo del Monaco, the son of the famous tenor Pelizzari was the guest star in Tosca, and the Israeli singer with a Mario del Monaco, and the orchestra was conducted by Lam- Carmen-like temperament, Rinat Shaham sang the title role in berto Gardelli. This performance was where the international the opera of the same name. career of the world-famous dramatic soprano, Éva Marton was launched. The 1980s brought new genres – contemporary balRinat Shaham let, musical, rock opera and oratorio – to the stage. & Mihály Kálmándi The damages caused by the flood in 1965 was only partially repaired and the small-scale renovations in 1982 could not eliminate operational difficulties. Teodóra Bán, the director appointed in 2003, initiated a comprehensive renovation works.

Photo © szabadter.hu

The Margaret Island Water Tower was renovated first – the building, which is now over 100 years old, hosts exhibitions and jazz performances on weekends. The seats in the auditorium were replaced and the reception area has become more comfortable. The largest stage roof in the country was constructed here in 2013, according to plans by András Lente. The first arch, holding the impressive canvas, has a 48 metre span. The construction of the smaller but higher arch in the back almost A wonderful summer night at the theatre will be further enrequired bridge-building techniques. The dressing rooms meet hanced if you take the special boat service to the island, and the requirements of the 21st century. The stagecraft has also after the performance you can hum the catchy tunes while adbecome more modern, and huge LED walls have been installed. miring the evening lights of Budapest as you enjoy the cruise on the Danube. “When permanent theatres close, open-air stages open” - is the new slogan by Teodóra Bán, who organised the Budapest Summer Festival. The festival offers productions with a great emphasis Margaret Island Open-air Stage on spectacle, with internationally renowned artists, operas, muBudapest, District XIII. Margaret Island sicals, musical plays, dance shows and revues, as well as also www.szabadter.hu

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Park in the heart of the city

Where Worlds Meet The first performance on the Margaret Island Open-air Stage, of The Queen of Sheba, the monumental opera by composer Károly Goldmark, who died 100 years ago, is probably the most important event of the Budapest Summer Festival. The composer was born 185 years ago, and the great work, his magnum opus, was first staged 135 years ago in the Hofoper in Vienna. The opera is directed by Csaba Káel, and the title role is performed by Erika Gál.

Photo © BFTK archív

The director has long been intrigued by nition. “What a Golden Age the last third of the question of why this masterpiece of the 19th century must have been: the premiere magnificent Viennese romanticism, which of The Queen of Sheba in Vienna was sponshows the German and French influences sored by Count Gyula Andrássy. He could of Wagner and Meyerbeer, as well as the not know that the play would be an instant traits of orientalism, is not part of the repsuccess, but he was well aware of its values.” ertoire. According to Csaba Káel, the main The Queen of Sheba is a product of its question of the current production is how age, and is characterised by rich symthese unparalleled musical riches can be bolism, and its staging is quite comconveyed to the audience. “It is not an easy plicated due to the large companies task, as audiences today know the biblical characappearing on the stage, almost like in ters only on the level of clichés: Sheba is beautiful Aida. “I think it suits the music and the spirand Solomon is wise. The other difficulty is that it of the opera that the visual representation the opera discusses a question of great importance: is characterised by an interesting moment of what happens when different worlds meet?” cultural history, the last time when radically We think – says the director – that through different artistic trends met was Art Nouveau. the internet, and other devices we know The ultimate significant international style, everything about the Earth and the people in which different worlds meet, and to which living on it. This knowledge, however, is everyone – just consider the fantastic Hungarsuperficial: you may get on a flight and go ian secession – contributed their best. We are The costume design of Anikó Németh almost anywhere as a tourist to see famous still in awe if we see an Art Nouveau chandesights and taste special dishes, but it does not mean you will lier or a piece of furniture that incorporates oriental features while keeping in have a deep understanding about the place. “This is exactly what line with the design culture of the era. But it is not retrospective Art Nouveau captivated me, and it was the same question in Goldmark’s time and at the that is staged, for the visualization is rooted in our age. The costumes by time of the plot: what happens if different cultures and people from different Anikó Németh are like this – she came from the world of fashion, and joined cultures meet?” us when Verdi’s Attila was staged.” The opera also touches the question of religion, as the plot is When describing their concepts, directors don’t usually discuss based in a biblical story. In one of the key scenes, there is an practical aspects. “It’s important to emphasis that I actually have to excommunication and harsh reactions. “If we take a look at not create two productions. First on Margaret Island, where the natural enthe religious, but the moral aspect of the issue, we feel that we have to talk vironment adds to the atmosphere of the story, and then in October, when about these conflicts even today. And the best, most peaceful yet most effective it is brought to the stage of the Erkel Theatre, which is not an easy stage. medium for this discussion and debate is art” – says Csaba Káel. Still, the majority of the two productions are identical, for financial as well He adds that he has been intrigued by The Queen of Sheba as other reasons. Éva Szendrényi and I have found some central elements for a long time. Káel is familiar with the Hungaroton record- that suit both venues.” ing, created by Ádám Fischer Goldmark Károly in the Italian Cultural InstiOnly a small part of operatic tute in Budapest with Klára literature is on the repertoire Takács, Veronika Kincses, of opera houses - for Traviata Sándor Nagy-Sólyom, József only three strong singers are Gregor, and Siegfried Jerusarequired, a soprano, a tenor lem, then at the zenith of his and a baritone, and these are career. “It’s not only the opera, easy to find. For the Queen of but also Goldmark as a person that Sheba, however, you need a has fascinated me for a long time.” professional male voice choir Goldmark was born in Keszand a mixed choir, and exthely, the son of a Jewish cancellent soloists for every character. The protagonist tenor (Assad) needs a tor, and became one of the Wagnerian tone which can effortlessly sing lyrical melodies and the high C as few Hungarian composers well. A guest has been invited for this role: Nuttaporn Thammathi, the Thai-born – together with Franz Liszt – German tenor. Eszter Sümegi sings Sulamith, Zoltán Kelemen sings Solomon, who won international recogand Péter Fried plays the role of the High Priest.

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Park in the heart of the city

A Luxury Hotel with a

Political Flavour Text: J úlia S zászi

Photo © BFTK daitár

The reputation of the Grand Hotel on Margaret Island has been maintained by regular customers, coming back for decades and passing down the tradition to their children, with dynasties of receptionists knowing every wish of the guests. What is the secret? You will understand it better if you take a closer look at the hotel and its environment, and get to know the historic yet modern atmosphere and its history. Even more so if you consider the emotions and nostalgia, as in the bleak period before the political transition, this was THE hotel in Budapest. The real Grand Hotel, the touristic pride of a city not at all spoilt with luxury, which nonetheless represented excellent quality.

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vided with new and modern services. The hotel changed hands and today it is a member of the Danubius chain. This is a unique combination: those who insist on an environment that evokes the romanticism of the late 19th century can also enjoy the special thermal waters. And quite comfortably, as so that two hotels are connected by an underground corridor, the guests of the Grand Hotel only need a bathrobe and they can indulge themselves in the pleasures of the spa resort, and then return to the historic atmosphere of the hotel. Interior spaces, period furniture and the furnishing of the restaurant all

Photo © BFTK daitár

This was the hotel Hungarian emigrants chose when, giving in to homesickness, they visited Hungary in the 1970s. They invited their relatives, who stayed in Budapest, to the hotel, and had discussions on the terrace about who made the right decision. Later on the first nouveau riche came here to relax after the hard work of making money, while not getting too far from the city centre. The history of the Grand Hotel on Margaret Island, as old as the city of Budapest itself, is really impressive. It was built in 1873, according to the plans of one of the greatest Hungarian architects, Miklós Ybl. In the 1920s the hotel was extended according to the plans of Gyula Wälder, and in the 1930s, the high roof was replaced by a third floor. The great flood in 1965 caused substantial damage, and part of the - fortunately evacuated - building collapsed in January 1966. After that, the building was restored and completely modernised. The extension and reconstruction - designed by architect József Malomsoky in cooperation with an interior designer - resulted in rational spatial relations. There were more modernisations to come. Between 1985 and 1987, the hotel was completely renovated. The lower building received a façade that suited the historic building and the tent roof was rebuilt. At this time the Thermal Hotel next door had been open for years, so the guests of the Grand Hotel were pro-

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Park in the heart of the city

Photo © BFTK photostock

Musical life in Budapest has always been legendary, world-famous artists have come to perform here, and where else would they stay than in the Grand Hotel. Otto Klemperer, for example, was so absent-minded, that one evening he went to the concert wearing his slippers. When he realised his mistake, he called the hotel, and his stage shoes were taken to him. Finding a practice piano for Sviatoslav Richter was not easy – nor was the task of finding a proper place for it, where the otherwise beautiful music wouldn’t disturb the guests.

Photo © BFTK photostock

The stories about the guests of the post-war era are more vivid. The current front office manager of the reception, Péter Kunz, brings these memories from his childhood dining table. His grandfather was the head receptionist when the hotel reopened after the Second World War in 1948 until the first large renovation at the end of the 1960s. His father held the same position, and later became the director of the hotel. They say: film director Márton Keleti stayed here for weeks and months at a time, retreating from the world in the 1950s, when he was working on a film plan. When extras were needed for a hotel scene in a film, the staff was involved: for them it was no problem to play a “real” receptionist or bellhop.

Photo © Danubius Hotels

recall the era when Budapest was developing as fast, or even faster, than the Emperor’s city, Vienna. Social life, popular venues of which were Margaret Island, the Grand Hotel and one of its predecessors, the Palatinus Beach, is only known from descriptions. The stories of the hotel are kept alive by those who work here. However, there is no direct account of the times when the poet János Arany spent the last summers of his life here, or when the Prince of Wales stayed here in the 1930s.

The Moiseyev company stayed here regularly from the 1950s. They were received in a grand way. The head receptionist travelled to the border, got on the train in Záhony, and by the time they arrived in Budapest, the rooms had been allocated. David Hemmings, the photographer in the cult film Blowup, enjoyed his stays here. And it was here where world-famous violinist-conductor Sándor Végh, who lived in Salzburg, stayed when he came to Budapest for the last time.

Athletes had their training camp in the Grand Hotel before important competitions. The Olympic team stayed here and left for the airport from the hotel in 1956 – full of ambition about the Olympics and worry about the situation at home. Some of those who left came back only many years later, as visitors. There is a rather strange memory from 1968 as well. One of the wings had to be evacuated, as mysterious guests, the leadersof the “peace camp”, i.e. the socialist countries arrived, who wanted to discuss what was going on in Czechoslovakia behind closed doors, excluding the public. Young people come in search of the memory of their ancestors, trying to find out if it was nostalgia that made their parents and grandparents keep the memory of this place alive or if there are real grounds for this. Regular guests enjoy privileges even today: if possible, they always get the same room - and it is true for their descendants, too.

There are incredible anecdotes: when a regular guest, a businessman from Düsseldorf arrived with his car a write-off after an accident somewhere in the countryside, he asked the head receptionist to have the wreck packaged and sent back to West Germany. The strange request was fulfilled.

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Danubius Grand Hotel Margitsziget Budapest, District XIII., Margaret Island

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By the will of the greatest Hungarian The stories behind Budapest’s bridges Text: G yörgyi O rbán

Photo © BFTK photostock

The Danube, Europe’s second longest river, cuts through the heart of Budapest. Traces have been discovered of a Roman pontoon bridge which existed in the 2nd and 3rd centuries. This bridge intermittently connected the legion at Aquincum with Pest’s ancestral settlement Contra Aquincum. Once again, between 1790 and 1849, a pontoon bridge connected the two riverbanks at today’s Deák Ferenc Street. As river traffic increased during the 19th century, this pontoon bridge had to be frequently opened, and was unusable during winter when ice flowed down the Danube, thereby leaving Pest and Buda without a link.

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Bridges of Budapest

Photo © BFTK photostock

The first permanent bridge across the Danube, the Chain Bridge, was built between Buda and Pest owing to the determination and will of “the greatest Hungarian” Count István Széchenyi during Hungary’s Reform Era. The bridge was designed by the English engineer William Tierney Clark, while the construction works were overseen by the unrelated Scotsman Adam Clark. The Greek merchant and banker Georgios Sinas funded the development to a considerable degree. The first foundation stone was placed on August 1842 and the threespan suspension bridge with stone towers was dedicated in November 1849. The lions decorating the entrances to the bridge are the works of sculptor János Marschalkó. The Chain Bridge was a sensation across Europe and to this day it is considered to be one of the most beautiful works of architecture, with an intimate and harmonious atmosphere. Near the end of World War II, the Chain Bridge was destroyed, along with all of the other bridges that crossed the Danube in Budapest. The bridge was rebuilt and reopened on its centennial anniversary in 1949.

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Photo © BFTK photostock

The second permanent link across the river was the Margaret Bridge. An international public tender was held in 1871, which was won by the French civil engineer Ernest Gouin, who planned the arch bridge, which opened in 1876, with the extension to Margaret Island completed in 1900. The Szabadság (Liberty) Bridge, which spans the Danube between Gellért Square in Buda and Fővám Square in Pest, was originally named after Emperor Franz Joseph. It is one of the world’s most beautiful cantilevered bridges and was opened to traffic in October 1896. What makes it extraordinary is the way the bridge aesthetically presents its technical points of interest. The Elisabeth Bridge was dedicated in 1903 and was named after the Austro-Hungarian Empress. A suspension bridge, it was considered an engineering wonder for its time. Following the war, the destroyed bridge could not be rebuilt, and therefore the engineer Pál Sávoly planned a new suspension bridge to replace it, which was built from 1961-1964. The decora-

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Bridges of Budapest

ing cables support the bridge. Its steel structure weighs nearly 13,000 tonnes, while the Eiffel Tower’s weighs “only” 10,000. At the opposite end of Budapest the Ferenc Deák Bridge is the southern crossing of the M0 and was dedicated in 1990. The K Bridge connects Óbuda with the Óbudai Hajógyári (Shipyard) Island. It was quickly assembled from military bridge elements in 1955 to create a rail link with the island’s shipyard. Today it is a vehicle and pedestrian bridge, as well as the main point of entrance for people arriving at the Sziget Festival each August.

Photo © Balázs Mohai

Photo © MitteComm

tive lights on the towers were a gift from Japan to Hungary in 2009 to celebrate the 140th anniversary of diplomatic relations and the 50th anniversary of their resumption. The lights were planned by Motoko Ishii. These four bridges span the Danube in central Budapest. They are an important part of the view and represent Budapest better than all its other structures: the Banks of the Danube between the Margaret Bridge and Szabadság Bridge, along with the panorama it offers, are on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The Petôfi Bridge, which is the southern crossing of the trams that run on the Grand Boulevard, was completed in 1937 and was originally named after Hungary’s then regent, Miklós Horthy. The Árpád Bridge, which touches Margaret Island at its northern tip, was opened in 1950 and is named after the Grand Prince who led the Hungarian conquest of the Carpathian Basin. It is Budapest’s busiest, with 150,000 vehicles crossing it daily.

Photo © MitteComm

Photo © BFTK photostock

rail line. The bridge also features a pedestrian and bicycle lane. The Southern Connecting Rail Bridge was dedicated in 1877 and is Hungary’s most important and busiest rail bridge across the Danube. The most recently built bridge is the Megyeri Bridge dedicated in 2008, and is the M0 Motorway’s northern bridge. 88 slant-

There are currently plans to build an additional two bridges: the Aquincum Bridge to connect Óbuda with Újpest in the north, and the Albertfalva Bridge to facilitate faster travel between Csepel Island and District XXII in the south. The Rákóczi Bridge, originally called the Lágymányosi Bridge, is just north of the Southern Connecting Rail Bridge and was dedicated in 1995. One can find Müpa Budapest (formerly known as the Palace of Arts), the National Theatre and the Ludwig Museum at its Pest end. The Northern Connecting Rail Bridge was completed in 1896 according to Italian plans for the Budapest-Esztergom

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Bridges of Budapest http://www.bridgesofbudapest.com

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Budapest,

the aquatic sports city Budapest will host the World Aquatics Championships in 2017. For the large international swimming event, a new sports facility named the Dagály Swimming Complex will be built. Following the withdrawal of original host Guadalajara, Mexico, Hungary agreed to host the event instead of four years later in 2021 as originally planned. This also means that the Hungarian capital will host the event alongside the World Junior Swimming Championships already scheduled for 2017.

} Visual plans for the sports complex that will adjoin the Dagály bath

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One of Europe’s most modern swimming complexes is being built behind the futuristic façade that resembles golden waves flowing towards the Danube.

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The aquatic sports city

A swimming palace

beneath a billowing roof Pavement-produced and geothermal energies Text: A ndrás O láh } Illustration: MNSK.HU

Az úszósport Magyarországon komoly hagyományokkal bír. Szimbolikusnak is tekinthetô, hogy a modern kori olimpiák történetében az elsô magyar gyôzelmet 100 méteres gyorsúszásban szerezte meg Hajós Alfréd az 1896-os athéni játékokon.

Aquatic sports have a long heritage in Hungary. It can be considered symbolic that the first Hungarian gold medal in the modern Olympics was won by Alfréd Hajós in the 100 metre freestyle at the 1896 Athens Olympics. In the history of the World Aquatics Championships, Hungary has won 28 gold, 21 silver and 24 bronze medals, meaning that in the alltime medal list Hungary is in seventh place, behind the United States, China, Russia, Australia and Germany (East and West Germany feature separately in the table).

Budapest has hosted several international swimming events. The first European Aquatics Championships were held in the Hungarian capital in 1926, and again in 1958, 2006 and 2010. The European Water Polo Championship was also first held in

In the recent past, Hungary’s most successful swimmers have been Krisztina Egerszegi, Tamás Darnyi, Ági Kovács and Norbert Rózsa, while in the present László Cseh, Katinka Hosszú and Dániel Gyurta are the most successful Hungarian swimmers internationally. The men’s water polo team consistently ranks as one of the best in the world, and will defend their title in the 2015 championships in Kazan.

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A vizes sportk városa

For the 2017 World Aquatics Championships, a new “aquatics palace” will be built on the site of the Dagály Bath located at the Pest end of the Árpád Bridge, not far from Margaret Island’s northern tip. This new complex will meet the requirements of 21st century aquatics. The building’s imposing façade, featuring structural elements that resemble golden waves flowing in the river’s direction, will enrich the scenery along Budapest’s Danube embankment. The complex will include a ten lane 50 metre long course competition pool, an eight lane 50 metre warm-up pool, and a 25x21 metre diving pool, with a handball court located in the complex’s multifunction hall. When designing the six-level, 25,000 square metre building, its architects placed a great deal of emphasis on the use of renewable energy sources: geothermal, thermal water and solar energy. With the assistance of the framework, the building’s interior can be naturally lit and ventilated, and the heat from the pool and shower water can also be reclaimed. Visitors walk upon energy-generating pavement, thereby contributing to the building’s efficient operation. The complex surrounded by a park is reachable via bus, tram and metro, as well as via boat on the Danube. Construction will begin in the second half of 2015 and will be completed by 2017. In addition to the Dagály Swimming Complex, Margaret Island’s Alfréd Hajós National Swimming Stadium and the Császár-Komjádi Sports Pool across the Danube in Buda will also host events during the World Aquatics Championships, while long distance swimming events will be held 130 kilometres southwest of Budapest by Lake Balaton’s northern shore in Balatonfüred.

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} Ground breaking ceremony

The foundation stone of the Dagály Swimming Complex, the future main venue of the 2017 World Aquatics Championships was laid by Prime Minister Viktor Orbán, Julio C. Maglione, president of FINA and István Tarlós, the Mayor of Budapest in the middle of May. Subsequently, the government commissioner responsible for the development of Budapest, Balázs Fürjes symbolically launched the investment, and the construction vehicles were started for a short time. The aquatics centre along with associated traffic-related developments, road construction, the construction of the flood control dam, the promenade and the embankment road will be finished in two years. The World Championships will be held between 12 and 28 July 2017. The Mayor expects that athletes from 181 countries will come to Hungary for the duration of the world championship’s and about 200,000 spectators are expected, which assuming a foreign participation rate of 10% will mean 100,000 extra overnight stays for tourism. Tamás Gyárfás, president of the Hungarian Swimming Federation thanked the greatest Hungarian personalities in aquatics, including five-time Olympic champion Krisztina Egerszegi, four-time winner Tamás Darnyi and three-time gold medalist Dénes Kemény as well. As he put it, they contributed to the creation of this centre with their titles being symbolic building blocks. An investment of comparable magnitude in the history of Hungarian swimming was the construction of the Alfréd Hajós Swimming Pool on Margaret Island in 1930. Photo © MTI

Budapest in 1926, with the Alfréd Hajós National Swimming Stadium hosting the event in 1958, 2001 and 2014.

Dagály Swimming Complex Budapest, District XIII., Népfürdô u. 36.

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The aquatic sports city Photo © spasbudapest.com

Spa City Budapest

Although some may associate Budapest with aquatic sports, the city also possesses several thousand years’ worth of bathing heritage owing to its thermal springs. The remains of nearly 20 military, public and private baths using cold and warm water along with steam baths have been identified in Óbuda, which was formerly the settlement and military camp of Aquincum in the Roman Empire. In the Middle Ages, the Knights Hospitaller (Order of Saint John) operated hospitals above the thermal springs in Buda. When Sigismund of Luxemburg (1387-1437) relocated his royal seat to Budapest, he paid special attention to the baths, while Matthias Corvinus (1458-1490), who brought the renaissance to Hungary, also frequented them. The baths of Buda had their heyday during the Turkish occupation (1541-1686). The occupiers operated seven to nine baths, among which were thermal, steam and Turkish baths. The baths from this period that have survived into the present are the Rudas, Király, Rác and Veli Bej Baths. The revival of bathing culture in the 18th century and the study of Buda’s medicinal waters – according to Empress Maria Theresa’s instructions – were conducted in parallel. Northern European bathing culture also arrived in 19th century Buda, and with it spread the use of saunas and steam rooms, where according to Russian custom, visitors would strike themselves with a birch rod before immersing themselves in the cold pool. In the second half of the century, the artesian wells drilled by the mining engineer Vilmos Zsigmondy on Margaret Island and in the City Park (Városliget) provided new sources of thermal water for medicinal and thermal baths, with the most famous being the Széchenyi Thermal Bath, which opened in 1913. Among the expanded and renovated baths, the Lukács, Gellért and

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Széchenyi Thermal Baths have become listed buildings, owing to their extraordinary architecture. The medicinal baths were expanded with two new institutes in the 20th century: the Dandár Baths that opened in 1936 in southern Pest’s District IX, and the Dagály Bath in 1948, located near the Pest end of the Árpád Bridge. In addition to Budapest’s seven operating thermal baths (the Dagály, Dandár, Gellért, Király, Lukács, Rudas and Széchenyi), six additional medicinal pools open during the summer months. Visitors can refresh themselves in the waters of the Palatinus Beach on Margaret Island, the Római, Csillaghegy and Pünkösdfürdôi Beaches in Óbuda, in Csepel and in the Paskál Beach in District XIV. Among the historical baths, the Veli Bej Bath is operated by the Polyclinic of the Hospitaller Brothers of St. John of God, and is open to the public. The Rác Bath, recently renovated, has yet to open its doors. The Lukács Bath has been one of the centres of social life since the 19th century. During the 20th century, a number of Hungarian writers, composers, directors and other artists would visit it, with the bath featuring in many literary works. The Széchenyi Baths are a tourist favourite, with the chess matches held at the edge of the outside pool a long tradition among older guests, while younger visitors are drawn in by the regularly scheduled night-time pool parties.

Thermal baths and spas - Budapest www.spasbudapest.com

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The aquatic sports city

Bathers and swimmers The Alfréd Hajós National Swimming Stadium

Photo © BFTK photostock

The Palatinus Beach

Alfréd Hajós was an architect, a freestyle swimmer, a footballer and referee, a journalist, the head coach of the Hungarian national football team, and the first Hungarian Olympic champion. Sports publications called him “the Hungarian dolphin”. He graduated from the Royal Joseph Technical University, and went on to work with renowned Hungarian architects Ignác Alpár and Ödön Lechner. He opened his own office in 1907. He first designed in the Secessionist, later in the eclectic, and then in the constructive modern style. He was a sportsman,

Photo © Fôvárosi Blog

Photo © BFTK photostock

The Palatinus Beach was the first open-air bathing complex in Budapest. The bath’s big pool, operating since 1919 and permanently opened in 1921, has a surface area of more than 5000 square metres and was at the time Europe’s largest. The bath’s popularity was underscored by the necessary expansion work which began in 1937, according to the plans of the outstanding architect István Janáky. Constant but intermittent renovations were completed in 2013. The water in the pools originates from the thermal wells drilled on the island.

for at the first modern Olympic Games in Athens in 1896 he won the 100 metre and the 1200 metre freestyle event in the sea, which was 13 degrees Celsius, and thus won the first and second Olympic gold medals for Hungary. His main architectural works are the Hotel Aranybika in Debrecen, the Synod Building of the Reformed Church (Budapest), the National Swimming Stadium, the Millenáris Velodrome, and several sports grounds in the country.

Palatinus Beach Budapest, District XIII., Margaret Island

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The Alfréd Hajós National Swimming Stadium Budapest, District XIII., Margaret Island

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The aquatic sports city

Photo © Csizik Balázs - MitteComm

Kopaszi Dam

The Reborn Lágymányos Bay Text: G yula B alogh

The redevelopment of Lágymányos Bay began after the devastating floods of 1838 for the purposes of facilitating river control and flood prevention. Later, the bank to the south of Gellért Hill was built. This was when the bay was carved out of the Danube as it fanned out.

Photo © Csizik Balázs - MitteComm

In 1930, filling up of the northern part of Lake Lágymányos began. In addition to the port, sports received a major role in the bay. First as Lake Lágymányos, and later as a bay, it was popular with bathers, swimmers, professional anglers and rowers. This role remained after World War II as well, but its area shrank due to construction works from the 1950s. The state of the restaurants and sports and entertainment facilities continuously deteriorated. The development of this area gained new impetus when the local government of District XI and the owners of the nearby plots established a joint venture in 2003. In

this way, the area finally had an owner and an appropriate role to play. The approximately 100 metre long pebble-shaped port building designed by Váncza Mûvek Architectural Office and located at the foot of Lágymányos Bridge at the Dombóvári Road entrance of the bay is used as a port police station and general traffic port. It was built as the first element on the bay. The port operating at the northern part of the building and the recently opened Dunakavics café awaits customers during

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the opening hours of the park. The row of lightweight pavilions built according to plans by the T2.a Architects truly reflects the mindset of future developments and the idea to preserve the harmony between nature and the built-up surroundings. The park with its 14 pavilions on an area of 3000 square metres surrounded by 6000 square metres terrace in a beautifully landscaped waterside environment has hosted restaurants, cafes and event venues since the spring of 2009.

Lookout, water stage, boat house, playground

As part of the development, the bay was dredged completely. Many tonnes of fish and fry were introduced into the water, and the debris, communal waste and garbage that had accumulated here for decades was removed. A lookout was built, and a water stage was constructed surrounded by an auditorium that can seat 2500 people. At the western side of the bay, a more than one hectare sandy riverside was built. On the Kopaszi dam, 14 buildings were renovated. They can be operated as restaurants or cafes or as event venues. Visitors can enjoy the pleasant, charming esplanades and street furniture. The boat house has been renovated, and a football pitch with artificial turf and lighting and a playground for families with kids were built in the area.

Kopaszi Dam Budapest, District XI.

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The aquatic sports city

World-class athletes IRONMAN triathlon returns to Budapest

On 22 and 23 August, the Lágymányos Bay and the Kopaszi Dam will be the central venue of the IRONMAN 70.3 Budapest triathlon competition which was organised for the first time last year. The 1900 metre swimming portion be held in the bay. Then the competitors will jump on their bikes to cover a 90 kilometre distance mostly on the embankments of Pest and Buda. To give the route a slight twist, the participants will do a short section in the Castle District in Buda. Then, after a brief rest they start the semi-marathon, the route of whichwill be somewhat changed compared to that of 2014. In 2015 as well, there will be international and Hungarian world-class athletes among the competitors. One of the most successful stars of the global triathlon sport and eight-time IRONMAN world champion, Paula Newby-Faser will come to Budapest. In addition to a number of other honours, she is considered to be one of the best professional female athletes of the 1980s and 1990s. A novelty in this year’s series of competitions is that in 2015 5i50 Budapest will be the official Hungarian Olympic distance national championship. The 5i50 Budapest competition consists of 1.5 kilometres of swimming, 40 kilometres of cycling and 10 kilometres of running. This year, Kropkó Promotion was awarded the right to organize the competition by the Hungarian Triathlon Association. During this year’s series of events, a walking race will be organised for children suffering from heart disease on 23 August to raise money for the Pediatric Cardiology Department of the György Gottsegen National Institute of Cardiology. Hungarian and international stars will walk 500 metres in the company of heart patient children in the home stretch of the IRONMAN.

ITU Telecom World 2015 conference 1

The International Telecommunication Union (ITU) organizes every year the ITU Telecom World conference and this year it will take place in Budapest from 12 to 15 October. The ITU is the most important global institution of the United Nations in the field of information and communication technologies. The Geneva based organization has almost 700 private sector entities in its 193 member states. ITU celebrates its 150th Anniversary this year. It was founded in 1865 as the International Telegraph Union in Paris and Hungary was among its 20 founding members. The ITU Telecom World is a global platform that brings together the main ICT developers, ministers of ICT and any related sector, regulatory authorities, small and medium enterprises, Industry CEOs, investors, emerging start-ups, and the local and international media to accelerate ICT innovations, sharing knowledge and making meaningful connections. The event offers a unique chance for small and medium size enterprises and start-up companies to share their views, make connections and promote their developments and innovations in front of the leading international professionals. The event is also designed to facilitate networking at the highest level, including UN special agencies, regulatory authorities and high level industrial executives. The ITU Telecom World conference is organized since 1971, annually from 2011. The global event became soon one of the most important professional event in the ICT sector. The Europe Telecom was held in Budapest in 1992, so after 23 years the conference returns to Hungary. The four-day-long event involves 3 main elements: an exhibition, a forum and a networking opportunity. The main theme of this year’s conference will be “accelerating ICT innovation to improve lives faster”, however the small and medium enterprises and young talents (Young Innovators Competition) will also be highlighted. For further information please visit our website: telecomworld.itu.int.

Photo © Ironman 70.3

See you in Budapest!

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Photo ÂŠ Red Bull Air Races

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High

octane pursuits This summer Budapest will again host a multitude of world-famous sports and cultural events. Whether a person is a car driver, an airplane pilot or a music lover, they can all agree that in addition to reviving engines, petrol fumes, pulsating lights and heart-stomping rhythms, the Hungarian capital offers a diverse assortment of summer pleasures. This is why the pilots in the sky and the drivers on the asphalt would not miss their races in Budapest, or why the Sziget Festival continues to be one of the top music festivals in Europe, drawing hundreds of thousands from Hungary and beyond.

} Aerial acrobats in the sky in Budapest

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The pilots can hardly wait to return to the Hungarian capital as the race constantly evolves.

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High octane pursuits

Formula 1 in the sky Competing against the clock Text: G ergely S vékus } Photos: R ed B ull A ir R aces

The world’s best pilots have not criss-crossed through the picturesque surroundings of Budapest since 2009, but they are going to take to the air above the capital again on 4 and 5 July 2015. The race will be organised in a unique location, above the Danube flowing between the two halves of the city, Buda and Pest. Spectators can watch the event from the banks of the Danube. In addition to the race, visitors can see a great amount of attractions. Since it takes place in the heart of Budapest, a number of the city’s sights are within arm’s reach.

The Red Bull Air Race is one of today’s most watched and arguably fastest sports events, the existence of which is without exaggeration connected to one man: Péter Besenyei. We spoke to one of the world’s finest stunt aviators before the fourth round of the season. “Originally the Air Race was not even in the picture” – remembers the multiple world and European champion. “I wanted Red Bull to sponsor the World Aerobatics Championships, but they were thinking of launching their own series of races, a sort of aerial Formula 1. I was asked

to outline the foundations, then they put me in charge of developing the whole system.” Thus, the Red Bull Air Race was created within almost nine months, and the first official race was held in Tököl, Hungary in 2003. Since then, the race has been evolving continuously. Péter has been involved in these changes for years. “The gates changed year on year and we became better and better. Traditionally, I test the new constructions, which also involves deliberately hitting the inflatable pylons, to see how they are torn apart and how they deflate.”

} Without risks

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You might think that the Air Race is a particularly dangerous genre, as the planes fly at speeds above 400 km/h. In fact, it is one of the safest motor sports. For the more than ten years of the competition, not even one personal injury has occurred in sixty races. All manoeuvres are planned so that they do not have to be carried out in the direction of the spectators, thus even in the worst case scenario no airplane can crash into the viewers. And if a competitor hits a buoy, it immediately bursts and deflates, thus the plane cannot become entangled in it. The pilots fly wearing an oxygen mask and parachutes, and they are also prepared to escape from water.

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High octane pursuits

} Fast and graceful

If there is a plane that in terms of its capabilities is similar to birds, then the planes taking part in the Air Race are like this. Their minimum weight is 540 kilograms, and they are extremely manoeuvrable: these aerobatics planes can be drawn into vertical position faster than a fighter jet and their carbon fibre reinforced structure can tolerate much faster acceleration than the 10 g maximum designated in the competition.. The top speeds of the three types that are currently in the competition (Corvus Racer 540, MXS-R, and EDGE 540) is 420-440 km/h.

} No two races are equal

The outlines of the tracks are basically determined by the location: for instance, only an elongated track can be formed in a river valley or a bay. The organizers usually utilise the natural layout as much as possible: in Ascot, England, for example, the famous horse racing venue, the competitors flew among trees, whereas in Monument Valley, USA, rocks increased the challenge. In choosing the venue, it is naturally an important criterion that the environment should be fascinating, but this does not influence the pilots: they have no time to admire the scenery while flying.

However, this does not mean that Péter would look for danger as a daredevil, although he has carried out a number of stunts outside of competition. “I especially like difficult courses requiring good techniques. It is a great challenge to figure out how a more difficult combination can be flown nicely and quickly. But I never take excessive risks. “ The Air Race, which initially had a familiar atmosphere, has by now grown into a professional sport. In spite of this, there is a good relationship among the racers. “There is no reason why we should be angry with each other, as we actually do not compete against each other but rather against the clock. Of course, we live too far away from each other to keep in daily contact, but there are exceptions. Whenever the Air Race is held in Hungary, I always invite the teams to my cellar for a glass of wine and a chat; by now this has become part of the official programme.” The five year break is not the only reason the teams are looking forward to returning to Budapest this year: according to Péter Besenyei, many of the racers consider this race above the Danube their favourite one. Someone, or something to be precise, will surely be missing from the sky above the capital: this time Péter Besenyei is planning to line up for the start with a plane other than his Corvus Racer 540. “After sixty years, this was the first aerobatics plane made in Hungary. András Voloscsuk’s plane is brilliant, it flies nicely and comfortably, but we had to admit that due to its narrow wing profile it is unable to keep up with the others in the turns. So until we improve it, I will be using another plane temporarily.” The question is, of course, how much longer the racer turning sixty next year has left in this exhaustingly technical sport. “Physically and mentally, I’m fit, so I don’t even think of retirement. There are sports where there are new generations of supermen. Here this is not the case, and the physical demand is the same as earlier, but the technology is developing. Many things in aerobatics are mental: you need composure and concentration skills to be successful. And lots of practice, of course.”

} Competing in pairs

Until 2014, each contestant competed only against the clock, but then the knockout competition was introduced, bringing a new level of excitement to the already fast-paced tournaments. The qualifying sessions are held the day before the competition, where the fourteen fastest pilots can start the race. Here, they compete in seven pairs, and the fastest one of each pair will qualify for the final, where together with the fastest second place finisher, there are eight competitors. Here the duel is repeated, and the competitors that qualify will decide in a final duel who gets the first four places. In the championship, the finalists are given points: the first one gets twelve points and the eighth one.

Red Bull Racing Budapest, banks of Danube

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High octane pursuits

The Hungarian Grand Prix turns

Photo © MTI / Péter Lakatos

Text: G ergely S vékus

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High octane pursuits

The Hungaroring is preparing for an anniversary. The 30th Hungarian Grand Prix will be held on 26 July 2015. The Hungarian race has had a stable place in the Formula 1 racing calendar for three decades. There are only two locations, Monte Carlo and Monza that have been in the world championship programme continuously longer than time the Hungaroring, close to the Hungarian capital.

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„The Hungaroring is everyone’s favourite”

The teams, the pilots and foreign spectators gladly come here because of the great opportunities in terms of tourism and the beauty of Budapest. Typically, many people come here from Germany and Finland – because of the latter, Finnish pilots consider the Hungarian Grand Prix as a sort of domestic race. The ratio of foreign spectators is about 80 per cent. The F1 fans of various countries can find a common voice in the parties on the grandstands, in the festival-evoking row of tents surrounding the circuit, and in the city as well.

Race beyond the Iron Curtain

In autumn 1985, it was a huge success for the chief of Formula 1, Bernie Ecclestone and Hungary, the “happiest barrack” of the then existing Eastern Bloc, for the elite car race entered into a contract to hold a race beyond the Iron Curtain. The racing circuit called the Hungaroring, located at the city limits of the Hungarian capital was built in record time: eight months. At the end of July before Queen’s legendary Budapest concert in 1986, the members of the band could already try the facility. Two weeks later, the first Formula 1 Hungarian

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Grand Prix was held, and this year will be the 30th race. The popularity of the race is also reflected by the fact that the current contract is valid until 2021. The Hungarian Grand Prix attracted the most visitors when it was held for the first time in 1986. The 300,000 tickets sold then has been a record ever since, but the race has never had any difficulties selling entry tickets. Every year, between 180,000 and 220,000 spectators visit the Hungaroring from the pit stop visits on Thursday until the race on Sunday. The chief of the Hungaroring is not exaggerating when he says

Photo © Balázs Csizik

“Because of the anniversary, this year we are preparing special events for spectators and competitors alike. For example, there will be a festive concert, an exhibition of the relics of the past 30 years, and of course the race will be organised according to the usual high standards. I won’t deny it came in handy for us that the German Grand Prix was dropped from the racing calendar, because in this way there will be no race directly before the race on the Hungaroring. In addition, this might increase the number of spectators as well, because a large number of German fans have been coming to Hungary anyway; their number might further increase,” says Zsolt Gyulay, President and CEO of Hungaroring Sport Zrt.

Photo © MTI / Imre Földi

High octane pursuits

that the participants of Formula 1 love coming here. The drivers praise the venue every year and journalists and team members flood social media with photos taken in Budapest.

Hungaroring Mogyoród

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High octane pursuits

They became

Photo © MTI / Zsolt Szigetvári

champions here In addition to German and Finnish fans, the Hungarian circuit has been loved by British fans as well: McLaren have won here 11 times, and Williams seven times. In 1992, after many years of struggle, Nigel Mansell, sitting behind the wheel of a Renault car, won his world champion title on the Hungarian Grand Prix with this ninth win and 108 points; it was the first time that a world champion was crowned on the Hungaroring. In 1993, Damon Hill celebrated his first race victory in Hungary, then Jenson Button followed his countryman with a breakthrough in 2006, and Lewis Hamilton holds the record shared with Michael Schumacher with four victories. In 2001, Schumacher became champion on the Hungaroring, Fernando Alonso had his first victory here in 2003, becoming the youngest winner of all time, and then in 2008 the Finnish Heikki Kovalainen celebrated the first success of his career.

} As if I was at home

“It’s always a pleasure to go to Hungary. The circuit is not the most difficult one, but it is still a challenge. The last race before the summer break, Budapest is a great venue to close the first half of the season. I have won in Mogyoród and been second three times. In general, it is quite hot, the race is gruelling, but if you win, it doesn’t feel like suffering. It is always a good feeling to see the blue and white flags. For a Finnish pilot, this comes closest to our home race, as a lot of my fellow countrymen always come here,” says the 2007 Ferrari world champion Kimi Räikkönen, who celebrated his triumph here in 2005.

“The race in Budapest is really popular, the city and the Danube offer many opportunities for fans beside the circuit. I love the location of the circuit, here at the city limits of Budapest. I enjoy the walks along the river in the city, or the morning jogging. I have beautiful memories. I had my debut on the Hungaroring with Toro Rosso in 2007. The 70-lap circuit is the slowest one of the season, but it shouldn’t be underestimated as a racer, because you can easily make mistakes. The weather might be hot, which is physically very stressful,” explains four-time world champion Sebastian Vettel, who has not won on the Hungaroring, but is also a fan of the Hungarian Grand Prix.

} The place of my dreams

The 2009 champion Jenson Button has a very special relationship with the Hungaroring. “I love Budapest and I love the Hungaroring! I look forward to this venue every year. Usually, it is sunny and very hot, and it falls just before the summer break, and it fills me up before the holiday. I have plenty of good memories of the Hungaroring races: this is where I won my first race in 2006, which was very touching, and also my 200th race in 2011. That day everything was perfect. The car was fabulous, and all I had to do was reach the finish. Every one of my Formula 1 victories is special, but that was one of my dearest ones in the car.”

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Photo © MTI

Photo © Mark Thompson/Getty Images

} The Danube bank is a favourite

} Everything began here

Even though Fernando Alonso has won at the Hungaroring only once, it was one of the most important victories in his career, so it is no wonder that he says: “Hungary is always special. This is where I had my first victory in Formula 1, which I had always thought of as an unattainable dream. It was a very moving day, one I will always remember. The Hungarian Grand Prix is always one of the best of the season. The support of the fans is fantastic – gracias!”

2015.06.09. 14:38

MARGARET ISLAND OPEN-AIR STAGE

Budapest

Summer

Festival

Margaret Island

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Margaret Island

3 and 5 July 2015 8pm

10 and 12 July 2015 8 pm

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30, 31 July and 1 August 10 pm

7 and 9 August 2015 5 8 pm

26 and 27 August 2015 8 pm

Open-air Stage

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Open-air Stage

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16+

Special guests:

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Star guests: Tosca: Béatrice Uria-Monzon Cavaradossi: Giancarlo Monsalve

Mónika a ka Nik Nika King Solomon: Zoltán Kelemen Queen of Sheba: Erika Gál Assad: Nuttaporn Thammathi Sulamit: Eszter Sümegi Conductor: Domonkos Héja Director: Csaba Káel Featuring: Budapest Philharmonic Orchestra - Opera Ensemble, Choir of the Hungarian State Opera, the Hungarian National Ballet

Veres

Choreographer: Tamás Juronics Conductor: Gábor Hollerung Featuring: Szeged Contemporary Ballet, Dohnányi Orchestra of Budafok, Budapest Academic Choral Society, Talamba Percussion Group

Szabad Tér Színház Nonprofit Kft. is operated by the Local Government of Budapest Capital.

Conductor: Gergely Kesselyák

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Dance group: Crazy Rouge Choreographer: Nathan Clarke Text: István Verebes Host: Krisztián Kolovratnik Director: Steve Bor

eng.szabadter.hu

Director: Viktor Nagy Featuring: The Bu B dapest Philharmonic Orchessttrra - the Opera Ensemble, the Hungar n ian Na ational t Opera Choir o and Children’s Choir

/bnyfesztival

Tel.: 06/1 301-0147

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/szabadter

/budapest_summer_festival

E-mail: iroda@szabadter.hu

2015.06.02. 15:51:10

Aquaworld. One name, tons of memories Whether it is a one-day break, wellness weekend or a family vacation, Aquaworld means all of them. Relax and fun in one place. Check in, chill out www.aquaworldresort.hu

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A resort of VAMED Vitality World

2015.06.09. 14:38

Mini Republic of Culture Text: G yula B alogh

The Sziget Festival’s seemingly unparalleled success story began on Budapest’s Óbudai Hajógyári Island in 1993. Basing their idea on the legendary Woodstock Festival, a few youths began organising a series of events that became the Diáksziget (Student Island). Péter Sziámi Müller, one of the brains behind the original idea, said: “We wanted nothing more than just a good house party.” The first year drew 43,000 visitors, or quite a large house party indeed. The budget was 26 million forints and a day ticket was just 300 forints, or roughly 1 euro with today’s exchange rate and about 3 dollars at the time. The programme featured 200 concerts, 80 films and 40 theatre productions.

Photo © Bence Szemerei

High octane pursuits

_festival

er.hu

5:51:10

Music for the masses

The festival has featured world-famous acts since 1996. The first performer to draw 55,000 spectators was the big beat electronic group The Prodigy. Sponsors recognised the Sziget Fesztival’s commercial value, and consequently Pepsi bought the festival’s naming rights for 300,000 dollars for six years, which led to heated arguments. The Sziget Festival finally turned a profit the third time around. David Bowie performed for 100,000 dollars in 1997, the most expensive act up to that time, but by the following year attendance numbers grew to 268,000.

Sziget goes mainstream

The 2000s brought major changes for the festival, as it became quite apparent that the event was becoming more mainstream and drawing a wider audience. The world music stage outgrew itself as it presented the genre’s biggest acts. In 2000, 324,000 visitors came out to see 419 bands and 4500 performance art-

Photo © Sándor Csudai

“We were fortunate that we “over prepared” ourselves in terms of infrastructure and organisation from the start,” Péter Sziámi Müller recalled. “Even though the press wrote at the time that we didn’t have enough showers and toilets, our situation was still better compared to any western festival.” A year later 143,000 visitors came and the budget grew to 120 million forints, as the event became a mini-republic of culture with its own radio and television transmissions, its own newspaper, police and security.

World

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High octane pursuits

Photo © Szemerei Bence

was actually their child’s birthday. The family celebrated their child’s third birthday in the backstage area of the Main Stage with Sziget giving the family a birthday cake and presents. But happiness will also find those who recover their lost possessions. Last year a Swiss girl was relieved to have her wallet returned to her, with all of her documents and 70,000 forints still inside. But the Lost and Found has received other things as Photo © Sándor Csudai

ists. The festival’s “city centre” now contained a post office, laundromat, visitor satisfaction office, safety deposit boxes, a photo developer, a public address system, internet access, a teahouse, a milk bar and a communications centre. A unique Guinness world record was also set this year, as 1592 couples simultaneously kissed. For the 2011 European Festival Awards, Sziget won the Best Major European Festival category.

Record numbers and a change of direction

2014 saw the greatest number of visitors in the festival’s history, with 415,000 coming to the island for the entirely reinvented Festival Republic. Although people had been “marrying” each other in the festival’s wedding tent for years, 2014 was the first time that an actual justice of the peace was present to legally wed a couple together. During Sziget’s Christmas “Make a Wish!” promotion the previous year, a couple expressed their desire to actually wed during the festival. The wedding gift from the Sziget organisers was an eternal pass, so that each year the couple could spend their anniversary at the festival where they wed. The Minus 1 day that year also saw the celebration of a birthday. Josh Homme, the bandleader for Queens of the Stone Age and his wife Brody Dalle performed on the same day, which

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well, such as a suitcase, phones, iPods, cameras, camping chairs and one half of a pair of earings. In one case someone was able to recover their diary. Finally, last year’s Sziget Festival was also visited by a number of famous figures, one example being the American actor Cory Hardrict, best known for the television series ER and the films Warm Bodies and The Day. Hardrict attended the performance by OutKast, whom he had run into the previous day in the city.

Óbudai Hajógyári Island Budapest, District III.

2015.06.09. 14:38

High octane pursuits

Károly Gerendai What new things can we expect at Sziget this year? The ArtZone that we launched last year – which brought together all of the visual arts into one thematic centre – will be expanded with the Design Zone. There we will be able to see fashion exhibitions and works by designers. Other locations have been revamped as well. The Circus and Wold Music Stage will also be relocated. We’re enlarging the space before the Main Stage and are creating additional camping areas. The infrastructure is being further developed in regards to water drainage, which will be important when it rains as it will help minimise mud. Photo © Sziget.hu

Who would you recommend seeing among the performers? That depends entirely on your tastes and the genre, but what I’d like to draw attention to is the French circus Akoreacro, the Giant Street Theatre from Argentina and the popular Luminarium. The new locations will certainly be worth seeing as well. Obviously many people will come for the Robbie Williams concert, but what makes us proud is that many people come not (only) for the performances, but for the Sziget vibe itself. The Sziget Festival has a tradition of holding theatre and opera performances. Will this stay the same? Of course, but we primarily invite dance theatre and theatre productions that can be enjoyed independent of language. We present a wide variety of musical genres from opera to jazz. Will there be any differences in terms of food options? Not in terms of the layout, since once again the places with kitchens will be organised in blocks with the bars placed near the venues. Up until now a wide variety of cuisines was typical, but this year we’d like to build upon this. We’ll have quality street food and an international kitchen row, in addition to which we’ll have spritzer and wine courts, as well as ruin pubs to ensure that all sorts of styles are represented. What measures do you take to minimise your environmental impact? This year we’ll have a solar-powered venue, we will increase our recycling efforts, and naturally, as part of the Civil Sziget, we’ll promote environmental awareness.

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Robbie Williams at Sziget

Photo © Chugg Entertainment

Coming soon!

The Managing Director on Sziget 2015

Has the ratio of foreign visitors changed over the past few years? No. 90% of the five and seven day passes are sold to foreign guests, while 70% of day passes are bought by Hungarians.

} He’s here to entertain you

Robbie Williams, one of the world’s biggest pop stars, will take the stage at Europe’s best music festival on its “Minus 1” day (10 August) on Óbudai Island. The rambunctious Brit will perform at Sziget as part of his Let Me Entertain You tour.

Perhaps Robbie himself heard that Sziget is Europe’s best major music festival and wanted to see what all the fuss was about. He may or may not have, but what’s certain is that on 10 August on the Sziget Festival Republic’s Minus 1 day, one of the pop world’s biggest acts will take the Island of Freedom’s Main Stage. Robbie Williams, who has filled stadiums on his previous tours, agreed to festival dates, meaning Sziget visitors will be among the first to enjoy Robbie Williams’ hits in a festival setting.

Robbie has released 11 studio albums during the course of his solo career, and along with the tours for these albums has managed to conquer the entire world, winning 17 BRIT Awards along the way. He set a still-standing record in 2006 when in a single day he sold 1.6 million tickets, and he holds the record for the largest open-air concert, performing in front of 375,000 fans over three nights at Knebworth.

2015.06.09. 14:38

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2015.06.09. 14:39

City Guide Whether from the top of a bus, the deck of a ship, on one of the Bubi rental bikes, or on the base plate of a Segway, the best way to get to know Budapest is still on foot. Whatever your preferred mode of travel, qualified tour guides are ready to show you the city. Alternately, you can simply refer to the latest issue of the Budapest Guide published by the Budapest Festival and Tourism Center, which offers detailed information not only about the sights, but also restaurants and the many discounts that the Budapest Card has to offer.

} Sit back and relax on the Kopaszi Dam

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Ă&#x161;jbuda has welcomed families looking to relax at is open-air sports and recreation centre since 2009.

2015.06.09. 14:39

City Guide

Boats on the Danube

Budapest looks its best from here with Mahart Passnave

You can have a magnificent view of the capital city, Budapest, from several places in the city, but the view from a boat on the river Danube is more complete, more spectacular and more enchanting than from anywhere else. Let us draw your attention to some of the many possibilities. The boat service from downtown Pest, from Vigadó square, stopping at Batthyányi square and at the boat station at the House of Parliament Visitor Centre is very popular. It stops on both sides (Pest and Buda) of Margaret Island, and, in addition to shorter routes, you can also take a round trip.

and awe-inspiring sights of the capital city add to the pleasures of food and music. The boat Rákóczi or Budapest leaves from the boat station at Vigadó tér, first cruising northbound, after that it goes around Margaret Island, and turns south, then turns around between Petôfi bridge and Rákóczi (Lágymányosi) bridge and returns to the boat station at Vigadó tér.

Sightseeing on a pleasure boat with music and dinner The pleasure boat offers and exciting, 2,5-hour long sightseeing programme with music and dinner. During the cruise, the lights

Duna Corso programme The Duna Corso programme, a one-hour cruise between Margaret bridge and Rákóczi (Lágymányosi) Bridge, provides tourists with a view of the sights and historic monuments in Buda and Pest, along the banks of the river Danube. Guests are greeted with a welcome drink, and information about the sights is available, via earpieces, in ten languages in addition to Hungarian: English, German, Italian, Russian, Polish, French, Hebrew, Japanese, Chinese and Spanish. The service is available in July and August, 13 times a day.

Jazzy special service The theatre boat service and the Jazzy special service makes it easier to access the Open-Air Stage on Margaret Island, as by car you are only allowed to go to the not too spacious car park of the hotels. It is worth – and possible – to arrive earlier than performances or concerts start, and try the delicacies in the Margaret Terrace restaurant, in the cloister under the Water Tower.

Vigadó tér - International Boat Landing Budapest, District V., Jane Haining quay www.mahartpassnave.hu

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2015.06.09. 14:39

City Guide

from rock transport to cultural hub

Photo © A38

A38

This Ukrainian barge originally built in 1968 to transport rocks has come a long way, literally and figuratively. While transforming it, the intent was to preserve its original engineering and industrial features, all the while creating a high-tech, modern, inviting and easy to use space. The barge, which was named the A38, arrived at its current location on the Danube in southern Budapest in April 2003. Just as liberty, life, travel, adventure and discovery are symbols Asia Minor. This all combines to provide a dynamic and animatfavoured by poets, a boat is as well. The Danube, as one of the ed amalgam, just as the metropolis that lends the band its name most expressive emblems of Central European history and cul- became one of the world’s most vibrant cities due to an endless mix of cultures coming together. It’s no accident that Kolektif ture also serves as a compass, for it leads the way to the A38. Istanbul is always warmly received at world music festivals, but An emphasis is placed on music events, but the A38 also hosts also at such crossover events as the Montreux Jazz Festival. Modliterary, visual art and film programs. In addition to the wide ernised yet still authentic Turkish-Balkan folk music, full of heart assortment of popular music, they also feature exciting classical and soul: that’s Kolektif Istanbul. music programmes. Productions that cross musical boundaries are given preference, as are new works. The A38 also wishes to Black Stone Cherry will take the stage in the concert hall on 10 bring its audience closer to the music-making process through August, bringing their exciting brand of hard rock. The duality workshops, talks and educational programmes. The audio-visual of their music is revealed by the fact that they’ve toured with technology and the post-production studio provide an excellent mainstream performers such as Nickelback, Def Leppard and opportunity for recording performances, since the concert hall Whitesnake, while their last record was produced by Joe Barresi, was specifically designed with recording live music in mind. The who produced the sound of the Melvins and pre-fame Queens 12x6 metre stage can easily be refigured into a smaller stage, there- of the Stone Age. That is what makes Black Stone Cherry so by guaranteeing its ability to host a variety of productions. The fun: they play stadium rock with its monumental riffs and catchy backstage area is ideal for the artists who wish to prepare or rest. choruses without any of it seeming forced. This is an excellent alternative programme for fans of hard rock who may find Robbie Their summer calendar of events features a stellar line-up list- Williams too pop-oriented for their tastes. ed on the A38’s website (www.a38.hu/en/). One such act is Kolektif Istanbul, who will perform on 27 June on the barge’s breezy terrace. One of Turkey’s biggest world music exports after forming in the early 2000s, the group blends Anatolian and Balkan traditions. The title of their first album, Balkanatolia, A38 Ship pretty much sums up their style. Bulgarian wind and Balkan Budapest, District XI., Petôfi Bridge brass instruments meet percussion and eastern influences from www.a38.hu

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2015.06.09. 14:39

City Guide

G olf A

forbidden historic game The number of golfers around the world is estimated at 50 million. The unbroken popularity of this sport played on a grass course is rooted in its tradition spanning more than half a milennia. The first credible written records date back to 1457. It is true though that at that time it was banned by the Scottish monarch. In the following century, however, Mary Stuart - the first female golfer - “exported” it to French territory. In Hungary, the game was introduced by an aristocrat, Count Géza Andrássy in 1902, on the race course in Budapest. After 1945, the sport was banned. One of Europe’s nicest courses on Sváb Hill was destroyed and parcelled out. The first new Hungarian golf course was opened near Budapest in 1981, and according to the website of the Hungarian Golf Federation, there are currently 15 courses in Hungary in use. The best personality test

In Germany or the USA, it is inconceivable that an executive does not play golf. “Golf is the best to find out what kind of a person somebody is. After five minutes of playing golf, you know, how much you can rely on somebody, or how honest he or she is. This sport reveals every human trait,” says László Jakobi, head coach of the senior national team. Readers can encounter Jakobi’s name in concert halls as well, not only because he was the cellist of the Mandel Kvartett, but because today he runs his own concert agency and brings star pianists such as Grigory Sokolov, Fazil Say Piotr Anderszewski, Evgeny Korolev, and Dezsô Ránki to Budapest.

Golf is not a team sport, you are in combat with yourself, but one’s character becomes visible through propriety and the relationship with partners. “Everyone enters their points for a stroke themselves – cheating

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is possible, but is not done. It is also interesting how much someone feels happy for a good stroke by a partner, i.e. how much sympathy you feel during the competition,” says the head coach. It cannot be accidental who earns the most among professional sportsmen, Michael Schumacher was only 10th, Lionel Messi was in 7th place, but the first two places were held by golfers, because so many people play golf worldwide that advertising brings in fantastic revenues. They say that when Tiger Woods was at the top, whenever he wore a certain shirt, it brought in billions – László Jakobi says about the material nature of the game. It is a mistake to believe that golf is nothing more than hitting

} How did I become a golfer?

In 1993, we were touring with the Mandel Kvartett in the States and we had a free afternoon in New York before returning back to Hungary, remembers László Jakobi. In a nearby sports shop, I spotted a set of clubs in a shopwindow for $100, then tit was 100 forints to $1. Earlier, I had seen a single club in Váci utca for HUF 12,000 – so this strange price difference made me interested. I had no idea about golf. I went into the shop, had a look at the set, and came out. In the evening, it was still there in the window, but in the morning it turned out that it was the last one. Two people were standing behind me, waiting for me to put it down. I had to buy it. When I appeared at the airport with the cello on one shoulder and the golf set on the other, my musician colleagues burst out laughing. Lo and behold, I got an invitation two months later to Bükfürdô where the second course in modern times had been opened in 1991. After some practice, it was possible for beginners to enter the target golf competition – I got the hang of it quite well, and finished in first place. So it began. Then I infected my sons as well. They are great players and I became head coach of the senior national team.

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City Guide

The Academy Gold Club Budapest (1037 Budapest, Perényi út 6.) is the capital’s most centrally located golf course. Newcomers to golf and advanced players alike can enjoy its nine hole course, for it provides everyone with an easily accessible opportunity to hone their skills. The Budapest Highland Golf Club (1224 Budapest, Dózsa György út 99-103.) in southern Buda ensures for its patrons that the heritage of the noble sport of golf is upheld along with its traditions of etiquette. The Magyar Golf Club (2024 Kisoroszi, Golf út 1.) is Hungary’s oldest golf course. Located only a 30 minutes’ drive from Budapest at the northern end of Szentendre Island, it is an 18 hole course spread out across 66 hectares. The natural beauty of the landscape and the nearby Danube bend ensures that this place will become a favourite. The St. Lôrinc Golf Club (1238 Budapest, Szentlôrinci út 19-21.) in southern Pest opened its doors in 2009 and is easily accessible via the M5 motorway to which it is near. The sports centre also features a 2 hectare lake suitable for fishing and swimming, and can be reached via Budapest public transportation buses 36, 135 and 923. around a ball. No, this is a serious physical challenge, requiring strength and of course an incredible amount of concentration, so that someone can hit the ball a distance of 500 metres through two or three strokes, where the ball usually flies at a speed of 260-270 kilometres per hour. “If you miss 1 millimetre when hitting, that may result in a difference of up to 50 metres for the ball,” he reveals. “Now that I play golf, I never go on holiday to a place without a driving range. In this respect, Budapest could have a great future,” he stresses. “On its territory, there is unfortunately no classic 18-hole course, but nearby there is one in Kisoroszi, which opened as the first one in the new era.” Pannónia in Máriavölgy and Old Lake in Tata are only a 30-minute ride away by car. The clubs Akademy in Óbuda, Highland in District XXII (South Buda), and St. Lôrinc in District XXIII (South Pest) have only nine holes. This is like a goal game in football, but they are definitely good for practice and for having fun. Jakobi says that whenever Chinese or Korean CEOs come to live in Budapest, they immediately join a club. He seeks to dispel the myth that golf is prohibitively expensive. The set of golf clubs is a one-time investment, an annual ticket costs HUF 200,000, so if you use it a hundred times a year, the cost is only HUF 2,000. According to Jakobi, no special clothing is required. A pair of simple linen trousers (not jeans) and a polo shirt and good trainers are enough. You can buy special golf shoes with spiked soles, but it is recommended for professionals only. It is a family sport because anyone from a 6-year-old child to an 85-year-old grandfather can grab a club, and the handicap system has been developed so that anyone could safely play a match even with Tiger Woods.

Contemporary design inspired by the unique patterns of Roma culture, handmade with passion by Roma women. Hungarian Golf Federation www.hungolf.hu

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Available in the FIAN KONCEPT design shops in the Buda Castle: H-1014 Budapest, Úri str. 26-28. and Fortuna str. 18. Open: 10am-6pm every day

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City Guide

Classic Bites with Modern Techniques A restaurant for the town crier – a taste from the menu Text: S zonja S omogyi } Photos: B álint H rotkó ( plates ), I stván P ráczky

In the middle of Buda’s villa quarter, the popular restaurant formerly known as Bock Bisztró Buda now awaits guests with the delightfully named Vendéglô a KisBíróhoz (Restaurant for the Town Crier). The place has a pleasant atmosphere, classic Hungarian flavours and reliable quality. The new name has a playfulness to it, which is guaranteed by the passion of Lajos Bíró, the Corporate Chef and Viktor “Vili” Varju, the Executive Chef for the Bock businesses. Recommended by the Michelin Guide, the restaurant frequently hosts international diners who arrive here expecting the same quality as in Bock Bisztró Pest, but it is also a favourite for those residing in Buda. The restaurant is a great location for people, who in addition to the well-established Hungarian flavours, also enjoy international culinary delights and do not shy away from new and creative dishes. The menu contains nostalgic items such as ox cheek “retro” style, porcini veal knuckle with lamb sausage, deep-fried pork chops, as well as international offerings, such as venison stroganoff and beechwood-smoked Colorado ribeye steak. One of the most important things that go into assembling the menu is the freshness of the ingredients, and of course Lajos Bíró and Vili Varju’s creative vision. Weekly offers add variety to the menu, and their repertoire of dishes constantly grows. Every Saturday at noon they cook a large cauldron of fisherman’s soup over an open fire.

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City Guide

One cannot go without trying the foie gras sushi, for it is a perfect fusion of vacuum heat-treated foie gras, finely chopped gari and marinated ocean eel with wasabi mayonnaise. Among the mains the sous vide-prepared veal neck provides a special experience. The marinated meat is cooked in a vacuum-sealed bag for 35-40 hours at exactly 64 degrees Celsius in a water bath. The sides of scrambled eggs topped with paprika and egg noodles are worthy garnishes for the meat that is as soft as butter. The noodles themselves are topped with balls of sour cream that have been steamed with agar and then dropped in cold-pressed rapeseed oil, becoming the figurative cherry on top. (Agar is a jelly-like substance obtained from algae used as a thickener or vegetarian gelatine substitute).

Regarding cakes, according to Vili Varju his decision to depart with tradition has been met with positive and negative responses. KisBiró’s Esterházy cake containing sponge made from ground walnuts and almond flour, its ganache made from white chocolate and walnut brittle is the perfect way to end a lunch at the restaurant.

Naturally, an aromatic wine should accompany a good meal: keeping with its former name the restaurant features a wide selection from the Bock Winery, with a variety of other options as well. Nearly all of Hungary’s wine regions can be found on the wine list, which is changed quarterly. Furthermore, for those wishing to try more than one type of wine, over a hundred can be tasted, one glass at a time.

Vendéglô a KisBíróhoz Budapest, District XII., Szarvas Gábor út 8.

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Creative

Corner

City Guide

Wagner in Budapest – 10th anniversary

Photo © DR

The 2015 “Wagner in Budapest” Opera Festival will again feature the world famous The Ring of the Nibelung tetralogy. The 10th anniversary will see the repertoire become complete: among the works the composer permitted to be performed at the Bayreuth Festspielhaus, the earliest, the Flying Dutchman, will be performed for the first time at Müpa Budapest. “Over the previous decade there was perhaps only one year that The Ring was not performed. We did not expect the Wagner in Budapest Opera Festival to be such a huge success when we first planned it,” Ádám Fischer, the series’ Artistic Director said. “The Ring determines our repertoire, for between its rehearsals and performances, we cannot remove the special wall that we perform in front of and behind, as well as project onto. Therefore the premiere of the new piece can only be performed a few days later.” The posters for the Flying Dutchman appear to depict the drum of a washing machine. “It’s fundamental that the theatre express timelessness. A good theatre can insert such conflict into any era. Two people love each other while a third is jealous – this scenario holds true from ancient Egypt through the Middle Ages and into the Space Age. The washing machine is not a dominant symbol. In the old days women would congregate at the community house in the village where they would converse, while today they might chit-chat at the local laundry.” The Swedish soprano Elisabet Strid, who has enjoyed much success in Bayreuth, will sing the lead role. James Rutherford, celebrated for his performance in Die Meistersinger in 2013, will sing the title role. The production will be directed by Balázs Kovalik.

Tragedy strikes Puccini’s most dramatic opera will be performed at the Margaret Island Open-air Stage on 7 and 9 August. In Tosca, the arrogance and evil of authority destroys love and annihilates people pursuing happiness. The title role will be performed by the highly acclaimed mezzo-soprano Béatrice Uria-Monzon. The French singer does not limit herself to mezzo roles such as Judith, Delilah or Carmen, but similarly to Tosca she can also easily sing dramatic soprano parts as well. At the same time through her exceptional performance skills, she presents an authentic, genuine figure on the stage, which has accorded her much praise: her stage presence resonates with energy, her voice soars with elegance and impressive confidence. Béatrice Uria-Monzon graduated from the Conservatoire de Bordeaux in parallel with her art history studies. From 1984, she continued learning in Marseille and later the Paris Opera. She debuted as an opera singer in 1987. In 1993 she brought Bizet’s Carmen to life, casting aside the role’s traditional interpretation and clichés in her performance at Paris’ Opéra Bastille. Mario Cavaradossi is performed by the Chile-born Giancarlo Monsalve, a cultural ambassador for his country, while Scarpia will be performed by Anatolij Fokanov. Gergely Kesselyák will conduct performances directed by Viktor Nagy. Photo © Rozenn Douerin

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City Guide

PROGRAMME CALENDAR

June

Saturday, 8 pm

20 Danube Carnival Gala

Since its establishment, the Danube Carnival International Multicultural Festival Budapest has been a high quality cultural tourism attraction. The gala night will crown the 20th anniversary jubilee Danube Carnival’s programme. The show will be a spectacular carnival of nations with nearly 400 Hungarian and international dancers and musicians, including the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble, Hungarian National Dance Ensemble and the Duna Art Ensemble. Entry is included for guests with Night of the Museums wristbands. Margaret Island Open-air Stage www.szabadter.hu Thursday, 6 pm

25 String Chamber Evening

The chamber music concert by the MÁV Symphony Orchestra in the Festetics Palace’s Mirror Hall will be conducted by the world-famous violinist and conductor Gábor Takács Nagy. The evening will feature works by Handel, Haydn and Bartók. Andrássy University/ Festetics Palace, www.mavzenekar.hu

PROGRAMME CALENDAR

July

Sunday, 6 pm – 10 pm

5 Marcus Miller

A smoky black hat, self-assured posture and an elegant bass guitar – that could only describe Marcus Miller. His five-piece band including a saxophone, piano, drum, trumpet and guitars all combine to produce an exhilarating mixture in which you can at once feel an African breeze and modern urban bustle. The many external collaborators add more complexity, and the fusion of the exciting rhythm section and sparkling accompaniment will make it a magical evening for Miller’s fans in Hungary. Budapest Park Main Stage www.budapestpark.hu Thursday, 8 pm

9 Einstürzende Neubauten retrospective concert

One of the most outstanding groups from the German industrial scene, Einstürzende Neubauten needs no introduction. The group, led by Blixa Bargeld, is just as much fun today as it was decades earlier. Their music has inspired the likes of Depeche Mode, Nine Inch Nails and Rammstein. Akvárium Klub, Grand Hall www.akvariumklub.hu

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Friday & Sunday, 8 pm

10 & 12 Carl Orff:

Catulli Carmina & Carmina Burana

A joint performance by the Szeged Contemporary Ballet and the Dohnányi Orchestra Budafok. Carl Orff was a German composer, music teacher, and director whose most famous work is Carmina Burana, which is part of a musical triptych that also includes the Trionfo di Afrodite and Catulli Carmina. This special performance on 10 July will celebrate the 120th anniversary of the composer’s birth. The show will feature also the Talamba Percussion Group. Margaret Island Open-air Stage www.szabadter.hu Saturday, 8 pm

11 Jazzy Tower Concert

The Orsi Kozma Jazz Quartet formed in 2008 released their first album, Hide and Seek, which was immediately nominated for a Fonogram Prize, being also released in Japan in 2010. The quartet won the 2009 Jazzy song competition’s special prize, and the 2010 Pécs Fringe Festival’s professional prize. Margaret Island Water Tower www.szabadter.hu Friday, 8 pm

17 Imre Kálmán: Countess Marica

Countess Maria, one of Imre Kálmán’s most popular and exciting works, is about lovers caught in a web of lies of their own making. Városmajor Open-air Stage www.szabadter.hu Saturday, 7 pm

18 Heroes’ Square Concert

Conductor Iván Fischer and the Budapest Festival Orchestra’s musicians will perform a unique concert in Hungary at Budapest’s Heroes’ Square together with youths between 12-16 who come from difficult circumstances, but are interested in music and dance. 200 disadvantaged youths will dance to blended elements of folk, hip-hop and contemporary music. The production’s choreographer is the Harangozó Prize-winning Bertalan Vári. Heroes’ Square www.bfz.hu Sunday, 8 pm

26 Tamás Vásáry and the Kodály Zoltán World Youth Orchestra

The world famous pianist and conductor Tamás Vásáry, as well as the Kodály Zoltán World Youth Orchestra that he founded, have been regular performers on the Városmajor Open-air Stage. Városmajor Open-air Stage www.szabadter.hu

47 Monday, 8:30 pm

27 Mozart Evening

in Vajdahunyad Castle

The Budapest Strings Chamber Orchestra will perform a Mozart musical evening at the Vajdahunyad Summer Music Festival. In addition to two divertimentos, two piano concertos will be performed with a solo performance by Gabriella Szentpéteri. The Symphony in A major will close the evening. Vajdahunyad Castle www.budapestivonosok.hu

PROGRAMME CALENDAR

August

Saturday, 8 pm

1 Selections from Carmen

Piano-accompanied selections from Bizet’s romantic opera Carmen will be performed in the Óbudai Társaskör’s charming garden. Óbudai Társaskör www.obudaitarsaskor.hu Friday – Saturday, 8:30 pm

7-8 Buda Castle Palace Concert The Gypsy Princess

This August will see the third Buda Castle Palace Concert, the centrepiece of which will be Emmerich Kálmán’s operetta The Gypsy Princess, which turns 100 this year. The operetta’s enchanting and entertainingly thought-provoking stories and melodies lift the viewer from everyday cares and worries. Buda Castle, Lions Court www.operett.hu Thursday

20 August 20th

Budapest celebrates Hungary’s national day across the city with events and programmes for all ages, with an impressive fireworks display in the evening. Müpa Budapest will host a Jazz in the Palace programme from the afternoon and into the night. Müpa Budapest www.mupa.hu Tuesday, 8 pm

25 From Las Vegas to New Orleans

The Benkó Dixieland Band has a near six decade history, forming during the post-war boom during Dixie music’s peak in popularity. During their traditional Városmajor summer concert, the 75-year-old Sándor Benkó and his bandmates will perform a retrospective of their musical history and world tours. Városmajor Open-air Stage www.szabadter.hu

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City Guide

Good to know REACHING THE CITY and its centre

PUBLIC TRANSPORT (BKK)

Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport

With 268 bus, 32 tram, 15 trolleybus, and 4 underground lines, Budapest has one of the most comprehensive public transport systems among the capitals of Europe. It also includes cogwheel and commuter train, funicular, boat and chairlift services. Daytime services are available between 4:30 am and 11:30 pm, while at night you can get around with night buses, or Tram No. 6, which runs round the clock.

BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT: Take Bus 200E to KÖKI Terminal – Kôbánya – Kispest Terminus of M3 underground, and then take the underground towards Deák Square. FÔTAXI: The official transport partner of Budapest Airport. Buy your ticket in advance, at their kiosk on the airport. Airport shuttle van service. Buy your ticket in advance, at their kiosk on the airport. CAR RENTAL: Sixt Rent-a-Car www.sixt.hu Avis www.avis.hu Buchbinder www.buchbinder.co.hu Europcar www.europcar.hu Hertz www.hertz.hu

BKK information +36 (1) 3 255 255 www.bkk.hu

INTERNATIONAL BOAT LANDING +36 (1) 484 40 13 www.mahartpassnave.hu

EMERGENCY MEDICAL SERVICES PHARMACY

6th District, 41 Teréz körút (Tram 4/6, Oktogon stop in Pest) +36 (1) 311 44 39 12th District (Buda) 1/B Alkotás u. (M2 Déli pályaudvar stop) +36 (1) 355 46 91

DENTIST

VIII., Szentkirályi u. 40. (9-es busz Szentkirályi utca, Pest) +36 (1) 317 66 00

While several companies run taxis in the capital, all licensed cabs are yellow, have yellow licence plates, and are marked “Licensed Budapest taxi” on the driver’s door. You have taken a licensed Budapest taxi if you can see the driver’s photo ID and the table of fares on the dashboard and the insides of the passenger doors. All fares are licensed: the minimum fare is HUF 450, the stan-

dard fare is HUF 280 per kilometre, and there is a waiting charge of HUF 70 per minute. Cash and bank cards are both accepted. Make sure to get the receipt printed by the taximeter at the end of your journey so that you can check whether the licensed fares have been applied, and to ensure a swift remedy for whatever complaint you may have.

RAILWAY TERMINALS

COACH TERMINALS

Nyugati Station (M3 Pest – City Centre) +36 (1) 349 01 15 Keleti Station (M2 Pest) +36 (1) 313 68 35 Déli Station (M2 Buda) +36 (1) 355 86 57 Non-stop information: +36 (1) 371 94 49 (MÁV) www.mav.hu, www.elvira.hu

Népliget (M3 Pest) +36 (1) 219 80 40 Stadionok (M2 Pest) +36 (1) 220 62 27 Árpád híd (M3 Pest) +36 (1) 412 25 97 VOLÁN Információ: +36 (1) 382 08 88 www.volanbusz.hu

TOURIST INFORMATION

PHYSICIAN

Fônix Med 9th District (Pest), 29/A Haller utca (M3 Nagyvárad tér stop) +36 (1) 215 16 44 or 215 69 83 Fônix Med 11th District (Buda), 12–16 Tétényi út (Bus 7A, Szent Imre Kórház stop) +36 (1) 203 36 15

IMPORTANT PHONE NUMBERS Police: 107 Ambulance service: 104 Fire brigade: 105 General emergency line: 112 Inquiries: 199

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TAXI

Deák Square 5th District, 2 Sütô utca Opening hours: 8 am – 8 pm every day Buda Castle 1st District, 15 Tárnok utca Opening hours: 9 am – 6 pm every day City Park Ice Rink 14th District, 5 Olof Palme sétány Opening hours: 9 am – 7 pm every day BUD Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport Terminal 2A / Opening hours: 8 am – 11 pm every day Terminal 2B / Opening hours: 10 am – 10 pm every day

www.budapestinfo.hu +36 (1) 438 80 80

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