THE VIA FRANCIGENA by bianuccimariabeatrice

Towards the end of the 2nd century A.D. pilgrimage gained increasing importance. The holy places of Christianity were Jerusalem, Rome and Santiago de Compostela. The Via Francigena was the central hub of these pilgrimage routes. Many pilgrims walking along this road from the north to Rome, continued along the Via Appia and reached the ports of Puglia, where they embarked for the Holy Land. Italian pilgrims going to Santiago walked to the north and then embarked for the French ports, or walked along the Via Tolosana and reached Spain.

THE VIA FRANCIGENA The Via Francigena has been the pilgrimage route to Rome since the Middle Ages. It was used not only by simple pilgrims, but also by kings, popes and princes. Inns, hospitals, monasteries, boroughs and castles were built along its path; therefore it became an important trade and cultural route.

A SHORT HISTORY OF THE VIA FRANCIGENA The Via Francigena was a connecting route which contributed to the cultural unity of Europe in the Middle Ages. We can trace the ancient route of the Via Francigena by using travel diaries, and in particular, the records of a famous pilgrim, Sigeric the Serious. In 990, after being ordained Archbishop of Canterbury by Pope John XV, the abbot returned home and noted the 79 “mansions” where he had stayed on two handwritten pages. The pilgrimage of Sigeric the Serious, Archbishop of Canterbury, marked the beginning of the Via Francigena. In the seventh century the Lombards fought against the Byzantines to get more Italian territories. The strategic need to connect the Kingdom of Pavia with the southern duchies led to the choice of a road, which crossed the Apennines by the Cisa Pass, followed the Magra Valley and then turned away from the coast towards Lucca.

The path continued through the Elsa Valley towards Siena, and then through the famous D’Orcia and Arbia valleys towards Val di Paglia and Latium. The route, which was known as Via di Monte Bardone, became less used after the fall of the Empire. In the following centuries the Roman paving stones gradually disappeared to be replaced by a network of paths and tracks trodden by travellers. When the Lombards’ rule gave way to the Franks’ rule, the route changed its name into the Via Francigena, or “road from France”; this included the Rhine Valley and the Netherlands. It became the main connecting route between northern and southern Europe and it was used by merchants, armies and pilgrims. 3

PILGRIMAGE THROUGH THE AGES During the Middle Ages, the Via Francigena was an important pilgrimage route, not a single road, although it included several possible routes that changed over the centuries. All roads lead to Rome, you know! The Via Francigena, unlike ancient Roman roads, connected abbeys, linking the sacred places of the Christian world. This road, soon, became an important route for men and goods, thus contributing to the great rebirth of European commerce. The increasing use of the Via Francigena as a trade route led to the development of many towns along the road. The route became the main route to take the goods (silk, spices...) from the east to the markets of northern Europe and trade them for cloth from Flanders and Brabant to the Champagne fairs. In the 13th century the growing importance of Florence and the Arno Valley area marked the end of this ancient route. Nowadays the official route is divided into 79 stages and begins in Canterbury, continues in France, Switzerland and Italy and ends in Rome. It is 2,000 km long and crosses seven Italian regions - Valle d'Aosta, Piedmont, Lombardy, Emilia Romagna, Liguria, Tuscany and Latium - and 140 municipalities, with a total of 44 stages in Italy. Today the Via Francigena is also a journey through the Italian landscape, which changes greatly: from the pastures of the Aosta Valley to the industrial and agricultural plains of Piedmont, from the Po River to the rolling hills of Emilia Romagna, from the harshness of northern Tuscany to the sweetness of the Crete Senesi and the enchantment of the volcanic lakes of Latium. This journey makes modern pilgrims really understand the landscape, the past and the present. The journey turns into a gradual immersion in the roots of our culture, in which changes in the landscape, small and great works of art, the people we meet along the road, make us understand the essence of our heritage.

In San Miniato the Via Francigena passes through the old town centre, touches the old borough of San Genesio at the foot of the hill, which was chosen by Popes, Emperors and Bishops to host councils in ancient times. Bishop Sigeric stayed in San Genesio during his journey back to Canterbury. Nowadays San Genesio is one of the most important archaeological sites in Tuscany.

SAN MINIATO - GAMBASSI TERME This part is 23.7 km long and begins in San Miniato and takes less than 6 hours’ walk. After an hour’s walk, you take a path leading to the hills of Val d'Elsa. Here you can see castles, forts, hospitals and abbeys, which are located on the Via Francigena. You can see the famous Pieve di Coiano and Pieve in Chianni, which is now a hostel, road-houses and a water supply in Calenzano .You can also reach Montaione and San Vivaldo.

SIGHTS San Miniato -From the top of the fortress visitors can see the point where the Via Francigena meets the Roman road which runs from Pisa to Florence. You can also visit San Genesio’s archaeological site, indicated by numerous medieval travellers as a famous stop on the Via Francigena.

SAN GENESIO: AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

The history of this site goes back to even further than the Middle Ages. Excavations have brought to light evidence of activity in the area spanning from Etruscan times to the Roman and late Ancient periods, when a large necropolis was formed. The remains of a village were found in the Lombard period. The settlement consisted of wooden buildings and a small stone church. Probably, the town was linked with the city of Lucca, which used it as a strategic check point to monitor the road and river traffic in the Arno river valley. A new church called the Pieve di San Genesio was built at the end of the 7th century. Castelfiorentino - From the end of the 1400s, a pilgrim walking along the Via Francigena could see two tabernacles, frescoed by the Florentine painter, Benozzo Gozzoli, near Castelfiorentino. We can find the Tabernacle of Madonna della Tosse near the “Church of the Saints Pietro and Paolo” in Coiano, the 21st stop of Sigeric’s itinerary. Benozzo Gozzoli frescoed “The Death and Annunciation of the Madonna” inside.There was another tabernacle, called the Tabernacle della Visitazione depicting The Virgin Mary’s Life by Benozzo Gozzoli. Today the two tabernacles are in the Benozzo Gozzoli’s Museum in Castelfiorentino.

Montaione - Montaione is a small medieval village perched on top of a hill dominating the Elsa Valley. The centre is built around a tower and is surrounded by ancient walls. In Montaione you can visit the Civic Museum, where the oldest relics is a sixthcentury B.C. Etruscan "stele" statue depicting a warrior with a helmet, a spear and a shield on a tombstone .You can also visit the “Franciscan Convent of the Sacred Mount” in San Vivaldo, called Jerusalem since it reproduces the places of the Holy City in reduced scale.

ITINERARY Our tour along one of the most spectacular stretches of the Via Francigena starts in San Miniato, a medieval town in the heart of Tuscany famous for its historic, artistic and cultural heritage and ends in Monteriggioni, a charming hilltop town in the province of Siena. During this tour through the unforgettable Tuscan countryside you can visit hidden sights, hamlets and small villages and towns such as Castelfiorentino, Montaione, Gambassi, San Vivaldo and San Gimignano, a picturesque UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Day 1: San Miniato

Arrival at Pisa Airport. A coach will take you to the lovely Ostello San Miniato in San Miniato. Our walking tour starts with the visit to San Genesio’s Archaeological Site, considered as one of the main stops along the Via Francigena by medieval pilgrims. The site was important in the Middle Ages as it hosted bishops’ conferences, papal councils and imperial diets and it was located near the River Elsa and along the Via Francigena, the main connecting route between Northern Europe and Rome. Sigeric the Seriuos, the Archbishop of Canterbury, who described the 79 stages of his itinerary from Rome to Canterbury in a journal, stayed in San Genesio during his journey in the year 990.

Recent excavations have brought to light the ruins of a settlement known as Vicus Wallary, an 8th-century church, which was one of the biggest medieval churches in Tuscany, a monastery and an Etruscan village with its graveyard. Here you can visit a small museum housing archaeological artefacts and objects such as jars, cinerary urns and ceramic tableware.

We next head off to San Miniato, where you can have a cup of tea at Essenza, a nice café in Piazza del Popolo.

From here it easy to reach the Conservatory of Santa Chiara. The building is arranged around a cloister with arcades and it has a chapel dedicated to Saint Mary Magdalene. The Conservatory houses Noli me Tangere, a wonderful painting by Ludovico Cardi called “Il Cigoli”, a magnificent Medieval cross by Deodato Orlandi and paintings by Jacopo Chimenti and Antonio Domenico Bamberini.

If you want to taste typical Tuscan dishes such as “salumi”,“crostini”,“tagliolini” with black truffles, “tagliata” or Florentine steak with roast potatoes, we suggest you have lunch at Osteria l’ Upupa located in the city centre.

After lunch our tour continues towards Piazza del Popolo, where we can admire the Saints Jacopo and Lucia’s Church, also called San Domenico’s Church, dating back to the 14th century, the Cloisters of the Convent and the amazing Via Angelica, which is an ancient path famous for its chapels featuring 14thcentury frescoes and 18th-century decorations.

Later on, we head for Piazza del Seminario, where we can admire the Palace of the Seminary, an 18th-century building characterized by its concave façade decorated with superb frescoes and phrases in Latin.

Our next stop is the Town Hall, which was built at the end of the 13th century. Inside we can admire two beautiful rooms: La Sala delle Sette Virtù ,with its magnificent fresco, “The Virgin Mary nursing her Child surrounded by the Seven Theological and Cardinal Virtues”, and La Sala Consiliare, where Town Council meetings are held. The room is decorated with frescoes depicting the history of San Miniato during the Middle Ages and Coats of Arms of noble families from San Miniato.

In front of the Town Hall we can admire The Sanctuary of the Most Holy Crucifix, a magnificent 18th-century Baroque church, which is completely decorated with paintings and frescoes by Antonio Domenico Bamberini and houses a tabernacle containing the famous “Holy Crucifix”, which is venerated and thought to be miraculous. In the past the wooden image of the Holy Crucifix was housed in the Oratory of Loretino, a famous museum located next to the Town Hall.

Leaving this church behind us, we reach Piazza del Duomo, where we can admire the Bishop’s Palace, the 12th-century Imperial Vicars’ Palace with its tower which used to be a prison in the past, the 12th-century Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and San Genesio, which features a wonderful Romanesque façade but also exhibits Gothic and Renaissance architectural elements, and its Bell Tower, also called Matilde Tower as the Countess Matilde di Canossa was probably born in San Miniato.

Our tour continues towards Frederick II’s Tower, also called the Fort, a 37-metre tall tower built by Frederick II of Swabia in 1217. It was the central core of the Imperial defensive system and today it is the landmark of the town. Pier delle Vigne, Frederick II’s secretary, was imprisoned here for treason until his death, as Dante writes in his “Divine Comedy”. From here you can admire the stunning Tuscan landscape, with the Apennines, covered with snow in winter, the Arno Valley, Volterra’s hills and the sea on sunny days.

The Saints Sebastian and Rocco’s Church, which was the Bonaparte family’s chapel and houses Saint Rocco’s relics, is worth a visit. It dates back to the 15th century and was built on the ruins of an ancient oratory. This small one-nave church is dedicated to Saint Rocco, who is the patron saint of pilgrims, and it is one of the main stops along the Via Francigena.

. The church is located in Piazza Bonaparte, a picturesque triangular square flanked by ancient palaces built by noble families from San Miniato between the 16th and the 18th centuries. Here we can admire Bonaparte Palace, which was the residence of the Bonaparte family. Napoleon Bonaparte, the famous Emperor of France, came to San Miniato during his campaign in Italy in 1796 in order to meet Filippo Bonaparte, who was a priest and the Bonaparte family’s last descendant, and stayed in this palace as his guest. Napoleon’s family was of Italian noble origins and they had most of their properties in San Miniato.

From the square you can get a glimpse of Frederick II’s Tower and the 14th-century Convent and Church of Saint Francis. We walk along a steep road and we reach this church, which has a Romanesque façade. Inside the church there are 16th and 17th-century paintings and frescoes depicting Saint Francis and other Franciscan saints and Saint Francis’s statue. The convent has two cloisters, many rooms and a big refectory, where you can admire a splendid painting depicting” Saint Francis and Saint Clare’s Supper”.

We suggest you have dinner at Retrobottega, where you can taste a selection of “salumi” such as “sopressata”, cured hams infused in Vin Santo, truffle and pork sausages with toasted bread, “rigatino”, “finocchiona”, “spuma di gota”,”spendido” and “mallegato”, Florentine steak with vegetables, Chianti wine and “Cantuccini” with “Vin Santo”.

Overnight stay at Ostello San Miniato.

Day 2: Castelfiorentino, Gambassi, Montaione and San Vivaldo Today we visit Castelfiorentino, Gambassi, Montaione and San Vivaldo, which are ideal destinations for pilgrims who want to discover the history, art and culture of these small medieval villages during their walk along the famous Via Francigena.

After an early breakfast we leave San Miniato and we head off to Gambassi .This part of the Via Francigena is 23.7 km long and takes less than 6 hours’ walk. After an hour’s walk, we take a path leading to the hills of the Elsa Valley. Here you can see road-houses, forts, hospitals, monasteries, abbeys and castles such as the picturesque Coiano Castle surrounded by vineyards, where excellent local wines such as Chianti DOCG are produced. You can find a water supply in Calenzano and in Coiano.

During the route we can see the famous Romanesque Pieve di Coiano, a church dedicated to the Saints Pietro and Paolo, where Archbishop Sigeric stopped during his journey in 990, and the Romanesque Church of Santa Maria in Chianni, which is now a hostel.

From here it is easy to reach Castelfiorentino, walking through the spectacular Tuscan hills. This town, located between the Arno and the Elsa Valleys, rose near the intersection of the Via Francigena with the Via Volterrana in the Middle Ages. It has strong links with the pilgrimage culture as it has always welcomed travellers resting on their journeys from northern Europe to Rome. In the past a pilgrim could see two tabernacles along the route: the 15th- century Tabernacle of the Madonna della Tosse and the Tabernacle della Visitazione by Benozzo Gozzoli, a Renaissance painter who frescoed the famous Cappella dei Magi in Palazzo Medici Riccardi in Florence. Now these tabernacles are in Benozzo Gozzoli’s Museum in Castelfiorentino.

Our walk continues towards Gambassi Terme, another famous stop along the Via Francigena. Here you can visit the historic centre, with its spa complexes located in the centre of the town gardens. The well-known Terme della Via Francigena , which are located in Pillo, have been celebrated for centuries as they offer thermal waters rich in minerals. Here you can find a relaxing indoor hydro massage pool and an outdoor pool and enjoy the pleasure of the heat and the vapours. We stop for lunch at Osteria del Pellegrino in Gambassi Terme, where we can taste typical Tuscan dishes.

If you are not interested in the wellness path in Gambassi Terme, we suggest you visit Montaione, a picturesque hilltop town overlooking the Elsa Valley, immersed in the Tuscan countryside. We walk through its cobbled streets and we reach Piazza della Repubblica, where you can find San Regolo’s Church characterized by its Gothic façade featuring a stone sculpture depicting Saint Bernardino’s host. It houses an important painting, “Madonna and Child”, attributed to the Cimabue school. You can also visit the Civic Museum inside the Pretorian Palace located in the historic centre of Montaione and the small Church of the Saints Giuseppe and Lucia also called the Church of the Nuns. This church dates back to 16th century and it is located in the Town Hall Square. 19

The lovely Montaione area boasts a network of hiking trails and is the perfect destination for country lovers. Before leaving this small town you can enjoy a ham sandwich sitting on a bench in front of a wonderful view of the countryside. Our walk continues towards San Vivaldo, a hamlet is situated among the gentle hills of the Tuscan countryside at 450 metres above the sea level. The origins of San Vivaldo date back to 14th century. In an atmosphere of peace, history and art we reach the Holy Mount of San Vivaldo also called Tuscany’s Jerusalem. It takes its name from Vivaldo Stricchi, a 14thcentury Franciscan hermit from San Gimignano, who chose this area to live a life of contemplation and fasting. A chapel was built in his honour on the site where the friar’s dead body was found. In the 15th century a monastery and church were added.

Later the Franciscan friars created a complex of 34 chapels, only 18 of which remain today, decorated with splendid polychrome terracotta reliefs and statues representing scenes and episodes from the Life and Passion of Jesus Christ and Palestine, thus reproducing the Holy Places of Jerusalem. The site offers visitors a pilgrimage without going to the Holy Land.

We have dinner at Osteria San Vivaldo .Overnight stay at Castel Brelli, hostel 900 metres far from San Vivaldo.

Day 3: San Gimignano We leave our hostel early in the morning and we head off to San Gimignano, one of the most spectacular towns along the Via Francigena. This 13 km leg of the Via Francigena (Leg 31), which takes 3 hours to complete, is rich in splendid natural scenery. While walking we can enjoy the beauty of the landscape around us dotted with small churches, abbeys, ancient farmhouses ,bridges and castles such as the 12th- century Riparotta Castle and Montecarulli Castle.

During the tour we can visit the Sanctuary in Pancole, a small hamlet where we can find a water supply and refreshment, before going uphill towards the fortified village of Collemuccioli with its characteristic tower. In Pancole we visit the Sanctuary, which is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and was built in the 17th century. It features a Latin cross nave and houses a fresco by Pier Francesco Fiorentino and two 14th-century wooden sculptures. From here it is easy to reach the enchanting village of Cellole, where you can visit the Romanesque Pieve di Santa Maria, which dates back to the 10th century but was rebuilt between the 12th and the 13th centuries. Inside this three-nave church we can admire an ancient baptismal font and 14th-century frescoes depicting figures of saints.

Late in the morning we reach San Gimignano, which is considered one of the main UNESCO World Heritage sites in Tuscany thanks to its characteristic medieval architecture.

San Gimignano is a small medieval town in the province of Siena. It rises on top of a hill dominating the Elsa Valley and it is a famous tourist town, whose unique collection of towers and winding lanes makes it a charming destination for tourists. The town is also known for its white wine called Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Our walk begins at the Town Walls. We pass through San Giovanni's Gate and walk along Via San Giovanni, a road flanked by old palaces, going up to the centre of the town. We soon reach Piazza della Cisterna. This square takes its name from the 13th-century cistern, located in its centre, has a triangular shape and is lined with beautiful medieval buildings and towers.

Leaving Piazza della Cisterna behind us, we head off to Piazza del Duomo, which features the most important buildings and palaces in San Gimignano. On the left, at the top of a long flight of steps, we can admire the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta or Collegiata Church. It is a Romanesque church, which was built in the 12th century and has a fine brick and stone façade dating back to the 13th century.

Inside the church there is the Chapel of Saint Fina or Saint Serafina, who was an Italian Christian girl venerated in this town, and amazing Sienese and Florentine School frescoes such as “The Martyrdom of St. Sebastian” by Benozzo Gozzoli and “Stories of Santa Fina” by Ghirlandaio. Our tour continues with the Town Hall, which was built in 13th century and is the seat of the Civic Museum and the Art Gallery, and the magnificent Torre Grossa (Great Tower), which is the highest tower in San Gimignano. From its top you can enjoy a wonderful view of the Tuscan countryside: lovely Tuscan hills with villages, villas and groves of trees.

In front of the Cathedral we can see Palazzo del Podestà, which was built in 13th century and is characterized by a stone and brick façade and a 52-metre tall tower called La Rognosa, which is the second tallest tower in town. During the tour we will stop for lunch in a local restaurant in the historic centre, where we can taste delicious Tuscan dishes. After lunch we can have an ice cream in the famous ice cream shop, Gelateria Dondoli, which offers a wide range of sophisticated flavours such as “ Crema di Santa Fina “, “ Dolcenero “ and “ Vernaccia Sorbet“. You can also wander through the cobbled street of the town and reach the Rocca, a ruined fortress on the highest part of the hill. It is surrounded by parks and olive groves, where you can sit and admire the Tuscan landscape.

wOur tour ends with the visit to the famous Wine Museum, which is a tribute to the quality and prestige of Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Vernaccia of San Gimignano is produced exclusively in the medieval town of San Gimignano and has been considered Italy’s finest white wine since Renaissance. 24

We continue our walk along the Via Francigena and we reach the Benedictine Abbey of Monte Oliveto Minore .While walking we can see Montauto Castle and Torraccia di Chiusi, the tower-castle of the Abbracciabeni family. From here it is easy to reach Molino d'Aiano, where Archbishop Sigeric stopped during his journey, and Colle Val d’Elsa, with its charming old town centre and narrow alleys winding through the stone walls. This Tuscan village is famous for its crystal production and offers spectacular art treasures. Here we can admire the amazing Cathedral of Saint Marziale, one of the main churches in Colle Val d’ Elsa and Arnolfo ’s TowerHouse. We have dinner in the picturesque Ristorante Arnolfo, located in a Renaissance palace, where you will enjoy sophisticated and genuine Tuscan dishes. Overnight stay at Ostello Rifugio d’Elsa in Colle Val d’Elsa.

Day 4: Monteriggioni After an early breakfast we head off to Monteriggioni. We walk past Badia a Conèo, a Lombard abbey which once belonged to the Vallombrosan monks, and Bagni delle Caldane, a thermal centre which dates back to the Etruscan-Roman period.

The itinerary continues along a tree-lined road as far as the fortified village of Strove, built in 994. We go past Petraia Castle and reach Abbadia a Isola, where time seems to have stopped 1,000 years ago, when Archbishop Sigeric stopped there. Here we can see an important monastery built in the 10th century. Later we can visit the Romanesque Abbey of Saint Salvatore all’Isola, which dates back to 1001. For several centuries, this was a very important stop for pilgrims travelling to Rome.

Leaving Abbadia a Isola behind us, we have a pleasant stroll along the panoramic route of the Via Francigena between this small hamlet and Monteriggioni and enjoy the Tuscan countryside dotted with orchards, olive groves and vineyards. We stop in Monteriggioni, which is a fascinating town located on a top of a hill, in the province of Siena. It is considered one of the best preserved medieval towns in Italy and boasts magnificent exterior walls featuring fourteen rectangular towers overlooking the Via Francigena.

After passing through the majestic Porta Romea, also known as Porta Franca, facing Florence to the north, or Porta San Giovanni, we head off to Piazza Roma, the heart of the castle, built in the 13th century by the Republic of Siena for defensive purposes. The town rose on Monte Ala from which the Elsa Valley and the Via Francigena could be controlled easily.

In the square you can admire the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, a RomanesqueGothic church dating back to the 13th century. Its façade features a fine doorway with a stone arch, with a round window above.

Monteriggioni in Arme is worth a visit. The museum houses reproductions of medieval and Renaissance weapons and armours. Here we can have fun wearing an ancient knight’s armour on horseback and learn about the history of Monteriggioni.

Don’t miss the experience of walking along the top of the castle walls from which we can enjoy breath-taking views of the amazing countryside of the Chianti and Elsa Valleys. We suggest you have a stroll along the road running outside the outer walls, looking for ancient inscriptions, walled-up entrances and the arrow-slits. 28

We have lunch in the restaurant Antico Travaglio, where you can enjoy typical Tuscan dishes such as” salami”, homemade pasta and bread and Florentine steak served with a fine selection of Tuscan wines. In the afternoon we can sit in a café, buy local wine in the picturesque wine shops or visit the small shops of the town.

Monteriggioni is mentioned by Dante Alighieri in the “Inferno” in his Divine Comedy and one of his quotes is "Monteriggioni di Torri si Corona"("Monteriggioni is Crowned by Towers"). This quote gives the name to a medieval festival, which is celebrated here in July every year. Here we can find craftsmen, people wearing medieval costumes, knights, musicians, archers and more. It is a great atmosphere and the perfect chance to go back to the Middle Ages! The beauty of this place has attracted many Hollywood's film directors and the town was the setting for the film "The Gladiator".

Dinner in the pizzeria, Il Feudo, in piazza Roma. Overnight stay at Casa per Ferie Santa Maria Assunta, a hostel for pilgrims located inside the walls.

Day 5 Transfer to Pisa Airport for your flight back home. 30

BEFORE THE JOURNEY HOW CAN WE GET READY FOR THE JOURNEY? Trekking boots are the best footwear for this journey. You should wear trekking poles, as well as they can improve your balance. Your backpack should have a volume of 35-45 litres and contain your umbrella and anorak. You should choose an excellent-quality backpack. Before departure, a medical check-up would be recommended, because the journey is beautiful but it is also difficult and tiring.

WHEN TO GO….? The best months for a pilgrimage along the Via Francigena are May or June and September or October. For each leg in Tuscany the presence of the paving of the route is reported in percentage, so that a pilgrim can choose whether to have the journey on foot or by bicycle. It is useful to know that the Great St. Bernard Pass is generally open only from the beginning of September, because of the snow that makes it impassable for most of the year. Even the Cisa Pass can also be covered in snow during late autumn or early spring.

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