The theatre of rice

hanh ngan

For many people, the key image Vietnam conjures up is that of picture-postcard rice terraced mountain scenery, but what most people don’t know is the very best of this scenery is found not in famous Sapa, but in the lesser known Mu Cang Chai.

Mu Cang Chai is a charming destination all year-round, but it is during harvest season that it comes into its own and landscape photographers are attracted in their droves. Clear blue skies and rushing rivers flowing through the valleys combine with the harvest-ready yellow rice and newer vibrant green crop to create an eden-like scene. To see this display at its very best, a visit in September or October is a must.

A western district of Yen Bai province in Northern Vietnam, Mu Cang Chai is home to some 700 hectares of terraced rice fields. Seventy percent of these fields lie in three communes: La Pan Tan, Che Cu Nha and De Su Phinh. This is land that has been cultivated by the H’mong people for centuries.

The traditional cultural heritage of the H’mong people has been recognised by the Ministry of Culture, Sport and Tourism and the area has been

designated as a National Famous Landscape.

The area’s Khau Pha pass stretches for 30km, climbing over the terraced mountains and delivering people into the heart of this magical province. The terraces climb to an altitude of over 1000m, captivating all who view them.

No matter how many times visitors come here they will always be surprised by Mu Cang Chai’s amazing beauty with its sea of yellow rice dotted with the houses of the minority people who call this land home. It is these people who lend the area its truly special magic. The rustic H’mong way of life is a thing of rare beauty in today’s modern world. Observing their colourfully patterned clothing criss-cross the golden fields is an unforgettable experience.

All the generations of each family get involved with the harvesting and different families also help each other, moving from one field to the next until all the crops have been collected. This sense of community combined with the vivid beauty of the landscape make Mu Cang Chai one of the most intoxicating and inspiring destinations in all of Vietnam.