San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide Summer/Fall 2014 by Telluride Magazine

SanJuan

Skyway VISITOR GUIDE Summer/Fall 2014



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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

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Table of Contents

Towns Along the Skyway

Ridgway

Ouray

Silverton

Durango

24-25 San Juan Skyway map and routes

Mancos

Threading the Needles From train stop to mountain top

Don’t Touch That Dial Local Radio Takes Over the Airwaves

Micro Distilleries: The New Western Saloon Experience Grab a stool at the bar

The Best Just Keeps Getting Better New trails planned for Phil’s World and Boggy Draw

Ranch Roundup Find your ranch stay along the Skyway

The Road Less Traveled Discover the region with a cycling tour

Upshot The sky swing, photo feature by Cindy Steuart

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

The Zen of Paddleboarding SUP is for everyone

Above It All on the Alpine Loop Off-roading in the rugged San Juans

Telluride

Dolores

Features 10

Cortez

Open 7am - 9pm daily Mountain Village Town Hall Plaza

(970) 728-6500

A Full-Service Conventional and Natural Foods Market Open 7am - 9pm daily 490 Sherman Street, Ridgway

(970) 626-5811

Spirits Open 11am - 9pm daily Mountain Village Town Hall Plaza

(970) 728-6500

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

SanJuan

Skyway VISITOR GUIDE

PUBLISHER David W. Oskin

SanJ uan ~

Skyway EDITOR-IN-CHIEF VISITOR GUIDE Deb Dion ~ CREATIVE DIRECTOR Kristal Rhodes ~ COPY EDITOR/PROOFREADER Mira Perrizo ~ ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Jenny Page ~ WEB DIRECTOR Susan Hayse ~ CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Morgan Tilton, Mark Esper ~ CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS David Emory, Criss Furman, Braden Gunem, Kane Scheidegger, Brett Schreckengost, CIndy Steuart, Alex Witkowicz The San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide is produced by Telluride Publishing. Telluride Publishing also produces Telluride Magazine Our products are for sale at retail shops in Telluride and on our website: telluridemagazine.com For correspondence, subscriptions and advertising: editor@TellurideMagazine.com 970.728.4245

Kane Scheidegger

ÂŠ2014 Telluride Publishing Co., Inc., a division of Big Earth Publishing Company LLC. Cover and contents are fully protected and must not be reproduced in any manner without written permission from the publisher.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

~ COVER PHOTO BY Kane Scheidegger

The View Through

Cindy Steuart

the Windshield

“Wandering around our America has changed me more than I thought. I am not me any more. At least I’m not the same me I was.” – Ernesto Guevara de la Serna in Motorcycle Diaries

lean off your windshield, grab some popcorn, and turn your car radio up. You’re about to be treated to one of the most spectacular in-flight movies you’ll ever see: the incredible beauty of the San Juan Skyway. There are 150 scenic byways in the United States, but just one that was crowned a “skyway,” a nod to the high alpine vistas and rugged San Juan Mountains through which the route traverses. This is the finest open-air cinema available anywhere. It’s easy to see why Hollywood has chosen the areas in southwest Colorado, places along the San Juan Skyway, as the backdrop for so many films. There is no region as distinctive and dramatic. Movies like Cliffhanger and Avalanche showcase the geologic features that make this

region special; Two Spirits puts our Native heritage on display; Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade highlights the incredible archaeology here; and True Grit and The Connecticut Kid are a nod to our Old West and cowboy culture.

way, and add some adventures to your journey. And don’t forget to tune into some of the local community radio stations (pages 26-27) so that the DJ can play you the perfect soundtrack for your experience.

Driving along the Skyway you get to watch your own special movie through the viewfinder of your windshield. Each person gets to have their own experience, whether they round a bend and are greeted by an awe-inspiring double rainbow, they catch a glimpse of some bighorn sheep climbing the mountains next to the highway, or they are caught amid a cattle drive or a herd of elk crossing the road. The best part is you have the opportunity to pause the movie. Pull off the road to take photos, visit some of the special and unique places along the

Just like any great cinematic experience, the San Juan Skyway will leave you a little different than you were before, transformed by what you’ve seen and done. Except that this isn’t just a cinematic experience; the things you will witness and the adventures you will have are not scenes from a movie—this is real life, and you are the star of the show. Enjoy! n

Deb Dion

San Juan Skyway Editor

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

CALENDAR

of EVENTS

MAY 17 Love Your Valley Festival The event features micro brews, live music and dog contests.

Ridgway

MAY 25 Fly Fishing Clinics RIGS sponsors a free fly fishing clinic at Ridgway State Park. JUNE 7 RAT Festival with Joint Point Ridgway Area Trails hosts this benefit for regional mountain bike trails, with live music by Joint Point. JUNE 15 Trail Town Ten Miler Ten miles of county roads await runners in this race, which is a part of the Ouray County Race Series. JUNE 14-15 Ridgway Heritage Days & Ranch Rodeo Enjoy this classic rodeo and barn dance. JUNE 23 Chamber Music Concert Trio Solisti performs at the 4-H Event Center. JUNE 29 Ridgway River Festival Annual river festival is held at Rollans park, with races, exhibitions, live music, food and drinks. JULY 3, 10, 17, 24, 31 Concert Series Catch free, outdoor live music at Hartwell Park.

Even Hollywood took note of Ridgway’s spectacular Western scenery and character, setting the

John I. Clark

original film True Grit here decades ago. Ridgway is the northernmost entry to the San Juan Skyway and is known as the Gateway to the San Juans. Its beautifully manicured town park hosts music concerts, arts festivals, and a farmers market and its county fairgrounds is home to a great professional rodeo during the summer. Ridgway has a sprawling reservoir with camping and its tributary, the Uncompahgre River, has all sorts of watersports opportunities: boating, SUP, tubing, fishing, and waterskiing. The community is a hub for artists and craftsmen, with lots of galleries and outdoor sculpture, and the Ridgway Railroad Museum pays tribute to the town’s advent as a transportation hub, headquarters of the Rio Grande Southern narrow gauge railroad serving miners, ranchers and farmers in the 1800s. n

JULY 6-7 Horse Races Ouray County Rodeo Association hosts horse races. AUGUST 9-10 Ridgway Rendezvous This art festival features arts, crafts, food, and music. AUGUST 10 Mt. Sneffels Marathon/Half-Marathon Runners traverse the county roads back and forth from Ouray in this popular annual race. AUGUST 22 San Juan Chamber Music Fest Max Levinson performs at the 4-H Center in Ridgway. SEPTEMBER 2 Fly Fishing Clinics RIGS sponsors a free fly fishing clinic at Ridgway State Park. SEPTEMBER 19-22 Ridgway Railroad Days Celebrate Ridgway’s railroad history at this event. SEPTEMBER 27 RACC Parking Lot Sale/Mt. Sneffels Fiber Festival Arts, crafts, fiberwork and more are for sale at this fun annual event.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

The

Zen of Paddle

Boarding

SUP is for Everyone

addleboarding can be meditative, when the water is perfectly still on the Ridgway Reservoir, the sunlight reflecting off its glassy surface and dappling the pine trees along its circumference. Your board glides smoothly as you dip the paddle to right, to the left, to the right, to the left. Standing atop the board, you can take it all in—the deep blue and green of the water, the freshness of the mountain air, the peaks of the San Juans jutting into the sky. “There’s a point when you’re paddleboarding where the motion becomes second nature,” says RIGS owner and outfitter Tim Patterson. “You’re able to get into a rhythm and just enjoy your surroundings.” >>

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

“There’s a point when you’re paddleboarding where the motion becomes second nature. You’re able to get into a rhythm and just enjoy your surroundings.” There are boards that are so stable and enthusiasts that are so proficient that it’s possible to even do yoga or Pilates on a paddleboard. The lead instructor at RIGS is one of the people who gets her water fix and her workout at the same time: Marisa Murphy does everything from the downward dog and plank to the more advanced, one-leg poses while balanced on her board. “Often being out there, you feel like you’ve got the whole reservoir to yourself. It’s a way to connect with nature, just you and your natural surroundings.” It’s those sublime moments on the water that have made paddleboarding so popular. According to the Outdoor Foundation, SUP (stand up paddling) had the highest number of new participants (56% in 2012) of any outdoor recreation group. Patterson says that part of the appeal is the ease and accessibility of the sport. It may sound cliché to call something “fun for the whole family,” but SUP really is. He guides trips for an incredibly diverse group of people, old and young, athletes and novices, and he

even takes his 6-year-old daughter out on the water on his own board, either sitting at the end while he paddles or taking a turn at the helm herself. Some people even fish off their boards, and when the water’s warm it’s fun to jump or dive in, something kids especially seem to enjoy. “It’s been the fastest growing category for us, as far as popularity,” says Patterson. “They’ve become the preferred method of personal craft. It’s a great family activity.” It’s also great exercise. Paddling works your body’s core, and improves your strength and your balance. It’s very accessible to learn SUP, and once you get the basics down, it’s possible to go anywhere from a windy alpine lake, to ocean waves, to the moving waters of a river. Patterson takes clients on excursions to the lower Gunnison River, which has some Class 2 rapids but is deep enough to allow for the fins on the bottom of the boards. He says people standing up and paddling are better able to read the river and find their lines than they would be if they were seated in a kayak or a

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

raft. “Your line of sight and vision to navigate is not as limited, so a lot of people prefer that and find it much easier.” Patterson sells inflatable boards that are easy to pack and take on the road, and hard glass boards that are high performance for advanced paddlers, but he exclusively rents the extremely stable, roto-molded, plastic boards that are fun for users of any skill level. He says the best thing about SUP is its accessibility—everyone can do it, and they can do it together. It’s not like other sports, he says, where extreme or elite athletes exclude less advanced people when they go out. Sometimes on the reservoir, at sunset or under the full moon, when the wind dies down, the weather is calm, and the water has turned into a giant, beautiful mirror, an informal group will gather for a friendly paddle. Anyone is welcome to join in, regardless of how proficient they are on their board. “It’s a real fun time. It’s a very inclusive sport. There’s a lot of camaraderie, and a real willingness to share the experience.” n

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

CALENDAR

of EVENTS

MAY 26 Compassion 5k Run The race is benefit for “Compassion Weekend” in June where the community comes out to help with projects people can’t do themselves.

Ouray

MAY 31 World’s Greatest Living Songwriters Tour Hayes Carll & Bob Schneider perform at the Wright Opera House. JUNE 5, 12, 19, 26 Mountain Air Music Series Shel, The Brothers Comatose, Fox Street, and Afrolicious play live outdoor music by the Hot Springs Pool at Fellin Park. JUNE 6-8 The Odd Couple Enjoy this classic play at the Wright Opera House. JUNE 20-21 Women’s Club Rummage Sale Shop for treasures at the Ouray Community Center. JUNE 23 Magic with Eli Catch the magic show at the Wright Opera House.

Jeff March

When you drive into Ouray you may wonder where you took a wrong turn and how you ended up in the European Alps. From

Ouray’s incredible Uncompahgre Gorge (which is famous for its manmade ice climbing park in winter) to the pristine and beautiful mountains in which it is encircled, as well as its quaint Victorian architecture, old-fashioned shops, and historic main drag and museum, the town has a distinctly alpine feel. Ouray has all kinds of recreational opportunities, such as hiking, running, camping, jeeping, river sports, and mountaineering; whatever you do, don’t miss the Perimeter Trail, which offers a stunning view of the Cascade Falls and the gorge. After you recreate, relax by visiting one of Ouray’s geothermal treats, hot springs, a pool, or vapor caves. n

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

JULY 4 Old Fashioned Celebration Enjoy the Fourth of July in Ouray, starting with the Ourayce 10k, a parade, kids games, water fights, a concert by Black Lillies at Fellin Park, a jeep light parade at dusk and fireworks after dark.

AUGUST 13-17 Ouray Canyoneering Festival Under the big tent in Fellin Park, this rendezvous includes canyon trips, gear display and demos, raffles, and presentations. AUGUST 16 Crorkscrew Railroad Bed & Turntable Hike Take a guided tour through historical mining ruins and along a dismantled rail line, including the only turntable ever built on the main line of a U.S. railroad. AUGUST 21-27 San Juan Chamber Music Festival The Ouray Performing Arts Guild hosts this classical music celebration. AUGUST 23-24 High Graders Holiday Mining Competition & Heritage Weekend Celebrate the region’s mining history and watch the hardrock competitions at the Ouray Hot Springs Park. AUGUST 23 Grillin & Chillin Brew & Music Festival Nothing says “summer” like barbecue, craft beers, and live music, all held at the Fellin Park next to the Hot Springs Pool. AUGUST 30 Peter Bradley Adams The Summer Concert Series continues with Peter Bradley Adams performing at the Wright Opera House.

JULY 7 Melodrama Theatre Watch the performance at the Wright Opera House.

AUGUST 30-SEPTEMBER 1 Ouray County Fair & Rodeo Rodeo and ranching events and a county fair are held at the Ouray County 4H Event Center.

JULY 26 Kim Richey Come see the first performance in the Summer Music Series at the Wright Opera House.

SEPTEMBER 6 Imogene Pass Run Racers test their skills against the 17.1-mile course from Ouray to Telluride over Imogene Pass.

AUGUST 1-0 54th Annual Alpine Artist Holiday Celebrate the arts with this longstanding event and summer tradition at the Ouray Community Center.

SEPTEMBER 11-13 27th Annual Jeep Jamboree The annual Jeep rally convenes in Ouray, with some of the best off-road riding in the country.

AUGUST 6 Geology Field Trip Find out about the region’s geology with the Ouray Historical Society.

SEPTEMBER 27 Ouray Mountain Trail Run Runners circumnavigate the town of Ouray on the Silvershield, Ice Park and Portland trails and enjoy the great views and fall foliage.

AUGUST 9 Mt. Sneffels 1/2 & Marathon Run/Walk Runners traverse the country roads back and forth from Ouray in this popular annual race. For more information, visit www.mtsneffels.org

OCTOBER 4 Oktoberfest & 50th annual Jeep Raffle drawing What better way to say goodbye to summer than by winning a Jeep in the annual raffle at the Ouray Community Center, and enjoying Autumn beers and food.

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

Criss Furman

ABOVE IT ALL

on the

By Mark Esper

Alpine Loop

rospectors streaming into Colorado in the late 1800s had to wait until the Brunot Agreement with the Utes in 1873 opened up the riches of the remote and rugged High San Juans. Free from Indian attack, they then faced the challenge of actually reaching the veins of gold- and silver-laden quartzite that streaked up sheer cliffs and across highalpine tundra. In the urgent rush to lay claims and start extracting the wealth, entire mule teams were wiped out in snow slides or falls from trails clinging to precipices thousands

of feet above deep gulches. The vast—and spectacular—trail system those early miners developed survives to this day, most notably in the form of the famous Alpine Loop.

The loop links Silverton and Ouray to Lake City via Engineer Pass (12,800 feet) and Cinnamon Pass (12,656 feet). It’s an all-day ride that takes you through ghost towns such as Animas Forks, Eureka and Sherman, and across stunning high-alpine meadows. Animas Forks has to be among the highlights of this

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

trip. The well-preserved ghost town 12 miles northeast (and 2,000 feet above) Silverton features the original jail and several structures, along with the foundation of the once-great Gold Prince Mill. At 11,200 feet above sea level, this town boasted 450 people in 1883, along with its own newspaper. A famed 1884 blizzard dumped 25 feet of snow on the town of Animas Forks in 23 days in 1884. But by the 1920s, the mill had been dismantled and shipped down valley to Eureka and the town was abandoned.

“There is one point at which the Rocky Mountains, in their fated path down the spine of the North American continent, detour erratically to the West they have come to characterize — straining in a grotesque fit of primarily volcanic origin to escape the confining simplicity of the backbone we have come to call the Continental Divide.”

TELLURIDE ToURs

ATV • BIKING • FIsHING • RAFTING

— Allen Nossaman, Many More Mountains

Criss Furman

From Animas Forks, it’s just a short hop up to the summits of either Engineer or Cinnamon passes, and then the descent into Lake City, population 391. Lake City is a national historic district, as is the town of Silverton. Time for lunch, and then the ride back to Silverton or Ouray. The Alpine Loop is 4-wheel drive only, although some oldtimers in Silverton can still brag about making it to Lake City and back in a VW bug. This is absolutely not recommended. The loop is also open to ATVs and off-road motorcycles, but operators must be licensed drivers and have insurance. The Alpine Loop is one of the easier 4-wheel drive trails in the San Juan Mountains, but it’s still a thrill ride for even long-time locals, taking you close to 13,000 feet above sea level. In peak summer, the fragile high-alpine is a constantly changing canvas of wildflowers, stormy clouds, patches of snow and glistening lakes. The Alpine Loop is literally the Crown of the Continent. San Juan County’s mean elevation is 11,240 feet above sea level—the highest of any county in the United States—so it’s all downhill from here. For even more spine-chilling 4-wheel drive trips, Black Bear Pass and Imogene Pass link U.S. 550 to Telluride. Both of these routes call for more advanced driving skills, but it’s possible to book a tour, or rent a jeep, in Telluride, Ouray, Silverton and Lake City. n

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

Threading the Needles Written by Mark Esper Photos by David Emory

or anyone trying to bag all 52 of Colorado’s famed Fourteeners, perhaps the greatest — if not the tallest — challenge stands in the remote Needles Range, deep in the Weminuche Wilderness in the San Juan Mountains. There, towering over the most gnarly terrain in the state, loom Mount Eolus (14,083 feet), Sunlight Peak (14,059 feet), and Windom Peak (14,082 feet). Another 25 peaks in the Weminuche reach elevations of at least 13,500 feet.

Braden Gunem

Getting there:

The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad operates from May 3 to Oct. 27. Fares to Needleton from either Silverton or Durango are $59 one way.

The climbing is tough enough. But getting there is half the fun. In this case, it’s not a matter of just driving to a trailhead and hiking in. To this day, no roads even come close. Visitors must revert to the mode of transportation first developed here in 1882. The trailhead starts at Needleton, a

remote stop on the historic Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. So that means a scenic train ride—either 2-1/2 hours from Durango or an hour’s ride down from Silverton. From Needleton, a suspension bridge across the roaring Animas River leads hikers and climbers up to majestic Chicago Basin, six miles to the east. The basin is a spectacular high-alpine amphitheater, surrounded by many technical climbs, as well as the easier and more popular trio of Fourteeners. The popularity of Chicago Basin is in itself causing some issues. Starting this year the Forest Service will require registration at the trailhead, and in fact at all trailheads entering the Weminuche. In July and August, campsites in some areas might be hard to find. And beware, the ravenous local mountain goats have

At an average elevation of 10,000 feet, the wilderness is dissected by a 50-mile stretch of the Continental Divide. Here, on the crest of these ranges, the Rio Grande begins its long, tortuous journey to the south and east. 18

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

caught on to the humans. Make sure to hang your gear up when you head out to bag a peak. By wilderness standards the Chicago Basin in peak season may seem “crowded,” but keep in mind that this is only a small corner at the very west end of the vast Weminuche. The Weminuche is named after one of the Ute Indian bands that inhabited the region. The wilderness covers 780 square miles — more than half the size of Rhode Island. At an average elevation of 10,000 feet, the wilderness is dissected by a 50-mile stretch of the Continental Divide. Here, on the crest of these ranges, the Rio Grande begins its long, tortuous journey to the south and east. And these headwaters, swollen with melted snow, helped provide the power for the Colorado River to gouge out the Grand Canyon. Those seeking solitude among spectacular mountain ranges will have no shortage of opportunities. Just to the north of Chicago Basin stands the Grenadier Range, with peaks comprised of pure quartzite soaring into the sky. The easiest access to these awe-inspiring spires is again by railroad, this time to the Elk Park stop, about six miles south of Silverton. From there, the Colorado Trail heads east, up from the Animas River. Follow it for about three miles, then veer to the south along the east side of the beaver ponds, across Elk Creek and up the steep, informal trail to Vestal Basin. It’s worth the climb to this wilderness Cathedral of Colorado. The Weminuche Wilderness is not for the faint of heart. You’re on your own out there. Be ready for severe weather. Make sure to carry good topographical maps. There are more than 500 miles of trails, but be aware that trail signage is limited. While the wilderness range is named after one of the Ute Indian bands, the actual meaning of the Ute word “Weminuche” has been lost to the ages. It’s up to each and every adventurous visitor to find out what it means to them. n SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

CALENDAR

Silverton

of EVENTS

MAY 3 Train’s First Day The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad makes its first trip of the summer. MAY 18 Bar D Dinner The Silverton Chamber of Commerce hosts this annual fundraiser dinner, and announces the Citizen of the Year. MAY 24 Iron Horse Bicycle Classic Cyclists race the train from Durango to Silverton in this annual bike race. JUNE 2 Cemetery Work Day Locals pitch in to spiff up the beautiful local cemetery. JUNE 2 Taste of Silverton Block Party and Street Dance Revelry takes to the streets in Silverton, with music, food and drink at this annual party. JULY 4 Fourth of July Celebration and Fireworks Local festivities kick off with a Blue Ribbon fun run/walk, then roll into a parade, a Fire Department’s water fight, the International Rhubarb Festival, a Silverton Brass Band Concert, a Ducky Derby, a theatre matinee, and a fireworks display after dark.

Silverton is the best-kept secret in the San Juans. The tiny, historic

town only has about 400 residents, and they like it that way—they have miles and miles of ruggedly beautiful mountains as their private playground, with great jeeping, hiking, biking, trail running, mountaineering and river running in their own backyard. There are beautiful Victorian buildings to explore, including the notorious Blair Street establishments, mining tours and gold-panning, music, and theatre. Silverton is also home to the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, where visitors arriving on the first train each summer are treated to locals dressed in Victorian-era costumes and the old-time sounds of a brass band. n

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

JULY 11-13 Hardrock Hundred Endurance Run Perhaps the most grueling of any mountain trail race, the Hardrock Hundred starts and finishes in Silverton and traverses the San Juan Mountains. JULY 19 Silverton Mountain Run and K2 Double Race up Kendall Mountain once—or twice—at this popular mountain endurance run, starting at 12th and Greene Streets and finishing in Memorial Park. JULY 19 Silverton Barbershop Music Festival Enjoy the quaint sound of barbershop music at the Silverton gym. JULY 27-AUGUST 2 Mile High Jeep Club 4th Annual All-4 Fun Jeepers take on the alpine trails in the region, meeting up at Kendall Mountain Recreation Area.

Casey Carroll

AUGUST 15-17 Great Western Rocky Mountain Brass Band Festival Delight in these special, old-fashioned concerts at the Silverton School gym. AUGUST 14-17 True West Railfest Celebrate the special narrow gauge railroad with events in Silverton and Durango. AUGUST 23 Antique Truck Show Check out these beautiful vehicles at the parade and on display on Blair Street. AUGUST 23 Silverton Alpine Marathon & 50k A unique, high alpine course marks these running races, which start and finish at Memorial Park. AUGUST 26-31 1-2-3-6 Day & 1,000-Mile Challenge Mountain endurance runners race for 24 hours, 48 hours, 72 hours, six days or 1,000 miles, starting at the Kendall Mountain Recreation Area. SEPTEMBER 6-7 Silverton Quilt Show and Sale Check out the local fabric artistry at the Silverton School gym.

AUGUST 2 Mountain Man Softball Tournament Ball players convene at the ball field at the Visitors Center for this annual tourney.

SEPTEMBER 27-28 Fall Photographers Weekend Photographers shoot the beautiful fall landscapes at this event, hosted by the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad.

AUGUST 8-10 Hardrockers Holidays This event celebrates the town’s mining history with drilling contests and a tug-of-war.

OCTOBER 25 Last Train The last summer train ride from Durango to Silverton heralds the coming of winter.

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

CALENDAR

Durango

of EVENTS

MAY 1 Youngblood Brass Band Check out live, “punked-out hip-hop” music at the Animas City Theatre. MAY 18 Taste of Durango Sample the best from Durango’s many restaurants and listen to live music on Main Avenue in downtown Durango. MAY 24-26 Iron Horse Bicycle Classic Bicycles race the narrow gauge train from Durango to Silverton in this annual event, which also includes a criterion in Durango. MAY 30-31 Durango Blues Train This exclusive ‘moving’ musical experience features seven live blues acts, while passengers travel on The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad’s coal-fired, steam-powered locomotive. JUNE 6-8 Animas River Days Celebrate the Animas River with fun events, including a parade, dog contest, river races, and more. JUNE 7 Steamworks Animas Valley Half Marathon Runners race from Baker’s Bridge and finish at the Durango Sports Club.

The authentic Western town of Durango is the San Juan Skyway’s version of a metropolis—there are even a few traffic

lights on its main corridor—and town is the main population center of southwestern Colorado, so there are plenty of businesses and nightlife in the downtown area. But the town is also a hub for outdoor recreation, with the Animas River, local lakes, and lots of great hiking, biking and mountaineering. There are all kinds of unique experiences you can have in Durango, from the interactive Durango Discovery Museum, to a trip on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, a day of zip lining or a paintball fight, to an oldfashioned shootout at the quick draw competition each year. Durango is the perfect mix of Old West and New West culture. n

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

AUGUST 6-10 La Plata County Fair Enjoy this classic county fair at the La Plata County Fairgrounds. AUGUST 14-17 Railfest For train buffs and everyone who loves trains—don’t miss the World Fast Draw Competition/Celebrity Shoot Out at the train depot on Saturday and Sunday at 9 a.m. AUGUST 22-23 Durango Blues Train This exclusive ‘moving’ musical experience features seven live blues acts, while passengers travel on The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad’s coal-fired, steam-powered locomotive.

JUNE 14 Motor Expo Visit downtown Durango and check out the vintage and classic automobiles. Registration is limited.

AUGUST 23 San Juan Brewfest Durango is known as the “City of Brewery Love” and the “Napa Valley of Beer,” and you can find out why with a food and beer tasting on Main Avenue.

JUNE 14 Civil War Ball A celebration of history at the fairgrounds.

AUGUST 29-SEPTEMBER 1 Four Corners Bike Rally Experience the Four Corners, some of the best motorcycle riding in the world.

JUNE 21-22 Fun in the Sun Arts & Crafts Fair Stroll through the vendors booths and enjoy local and regional art.

SEPTEMBER 6-7 Whole Expo The Holistic Health and Ecological Conference & Exposition for Your Whole Life conducts its 19th annual event in Durango and at La Plata County Fairgrounds.

JULY 4 Independence Day in Durango Come join in the fun for all of Durango’s 4th of July events, starting with a breakfast and 5k run at Rotary Park and ending with a parade followed by a street dance on Main Avenue and fireworks at dusk. JULY 11-13 Gem and Mineral Show Located at the La Plata County Fairgrounds, the gem and mineral show features kids’ activities, a silent auction, raffle, mineral displays, and about 40 vendors. JULY 11-13 Art on the Animas Durango celebrates with this 23rd annual arts and crafts fair, held at Santa Rita Park along the River Walk.

JULY 24-27 Fiesta Days Celebrate the region’s Spanish history and cowboy heritage with rodeos, a parade and other activities.

SEPTEMBER 19-20 10 Minute Play Festival Catch these short theatre works, which are open to the public at the Durango Arts Center. OCTOBER 9-12 Durango Heritage Celebration Enjoy period reenactments, an 1880s heritage train ride, a Promenade on the Boulevard in period fashions, a Grand Victorian Ball, and more. OCTOBER 11-12 Durango Double Marathon Runners from the region compete in the double marathon, the half marathon and/or a trail run, in support of the Women’s Resource Center.

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

Skyway The San Juan

he San Juan Skyway is the ultimate road trip. Along its breathtaking 236-mile loop

are vibrant alpine communities, historic landmarks, Mesa Verde National Park, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, wild rivers, pristine waterfalls and lakes, high-elevation passes and the gorgeous, jagged San Juan Mountain Range for which it is named.

Jeff March

U.S. Highway 160

Starting in Durango, Colorado, the largest city on San Juan Skyway, the byway follows U.S. Highway 160 (US 160) west through the town of Mancos to Cortez passing the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park.

State Highway 145

At Cortez, the byway turns north following State Highway 145 (SH 145) through the town of Dolores and follows the Dolores River into the San Juan National Forest. The byway passes through the small town of Rico, county seat of Dolores County prior to 1941; the old courthouse still remains. From Rico, the byway crosses 10,222 ft (3116 m) Lizard Head Pass and enters the Uncompahgre National Forest. Lizard Head Pass provides views of the 14,159foot (4,316 m) El Diente Peak, the 14,246-foot (4,342 m) Mount Wilson, the 14,017-foot (4,272 m) Wilson Peak and the passâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s namesake, the 13,113-foot (3,997 m) Lizard Head Peak. The byway descends near the little town of Ophir past the location of the famous Ophir Loop of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. A spur road heads off to the old mining town turned ski resort of Telluride. The byway

follows the San Miguel River down to the little town of Placerville.

State Highway 62

The byway turns east at Placerville onto SH 62 and follows it over Dallas Divide. There are many excellent views of the San Juan Mountains, especially of the mountains around the 14,150-foot (4,310 m) Mount Sneffels. From top of the divide the byway descends into the town of Ridgway. The entire route of the byway from Durango to Ridgway roughly follows the route of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad.

U.S. Highway 550

From Ridgway, the byway turns south onto US 550 following the Uncompahgre River into the Victorian mining town of Ouray. From Ouray south back to Durango, the highway is referred to as the Million Dollar Highway, not for its priceless beauty but for the extreme costs of its initial construction. The first 7.0 miles (11.3 km) south of Ouray, the byway follows through the Uncompahgre Gorge. Just past the only tunnel on the route, just south of Ouray, the road crosses over Bear Creek Falls

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

on a bridge at the location of an impassable toll booth on the original road. The Alpine Loop National Back Country Byway, a four-wheeldrive jeep road takes off in the gorge south of Bear Creek Falls. Before leaving the gorge, the byway passes through a snow shed under the Riverside Slide avalanche zone. A monument stands near here honoring those who have lost their lives in the avalanche, including several snowplow operators. At this point the byway enters Ironton Park, a nice flat valley in contrast to the gorge. The road ascends several switchbacks, or S-curves, past the Idarado mining operation to the 11,018-foot (3,358 m) summit of Red Mountain Pass, providing views of Red Mountain (Colorado) and several ghost towns. Back into the San Juan National Forest, the highway descends through the Chattanooga Valley to Silverton. From Silverton, the byway passes over the 10,910-foot (3,330 m) Molas Pass and the 10,640-foot (3,240 m) Coal Bank Pass descending past the ski resort of Durango Mountain. From Hermosa, the road parallels the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad before returning to Durango. n

Kane Scheidegger

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Dallas Divide 8,970 ft.

Uncompahgre National Forest

141

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Ouray Hot Springs

Sawpit 145

Telluride Telluride Ski Area

Uncompahgre National Forest

8 Miles

Mount Wilson 14,246 ft.

San Juan National Forest

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Silverton

Molas Pass 10,899 ft.

Rico San Juan National Forest

Durango Mountain Resort

r Rive res Dolo

Coal Bank Pass 10,640 ft.

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San Juan Skyway Dolores

Hesperus Mountain 13,232 ft.

550 R

Lemon Reservoir

Hot Springs

184

Sunlight Peak 14,059 ft.

Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

Mancos S.P.

Anasazi Heritage Center

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Electra Lake

145

McPhee Reservoir

Trail of the 491 Ancients

Christ of the Mines Shrine

Red Mountain Pass 10,899 ft.

Lizard Head Pass 10,222 ft.

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Alpine Loop

Mountain Village

Groundhog Reservoir 0

Ouray

Vallecito Reservoir

Mancos

Cortez Colorado Welcome Center

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Durango

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Rd. Ute Mountain Indian Reservation

Dominguez and Escalante Expedition Monument

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550 Southern Ute Indian Reservation

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

DON’T TOUCH

THAT DIAL

Local Radio Takes Over the Airwaves

he DJ on air fades out the song, one you haven’t heard since college, the one nobody ever plays anymore. You were transported back in time, evoking memories from long ago, but your reverie is broken by his voice. “We just got a call that there’s a black lab running around on Highway 145. If you’re missing your dog, he’s out there by mile marker 108.” Then the music comes back on. On remote stretches of road in the West, you can hit the “scan” button on your car radio and watch it cycle endlessly through all the numbers, without ever stopping and picking up a signal. But not on the San Juan Skyway. Anywhere you drive on the Skyway, your radio will zero in on one of our beloved community radio stations, and you’ll be treated to an endearing slice of local life broadcast to whomever is listening.

photos by alex witkowicz

It’s something of a miracle that you can hear these tiny, low watt signals at all. The topography of all the small towns along the route isolates them from the rest of the world, and most of the towns are encircled by tall San Juan Mountains that radio or cell phone signals can’t penetrate. Big city commercial radio stations may have 25,000 watts, but these small public radio stations operate on merely 100 to 10,000 watts, and in order to reach audiences they often have to put transmitters up high on avalanche-prone, steep, rocky mountain slopes, and signal repeaters in other strange but strategic places to boost their reach.

playing the outdoor festivals here in the summer. Emergencies, avalanche reports, road closures, even the occasional cattle drive or sheep herd stopping traffic on one of the country roads; it’s all information you need and can only hear over the airwaves. There are interviews with musicians, funny banter between talk show hosts about small town topics, and even play-by-play commentary of the Duck Race. The Duck Race is an annual public radio fundraiser where people purchase a number, it is scrawled on one of hundreds of yellow rubber ducks, and the fleet is sent down the San Miguel River—the first lucky duck to cross the finish line wins a ski pass for its sponsor.

It is precisely that geographic isolation, and the small, tight-knit communities that exist here, that make public radio an essential part of life. Stations broadcast everything from community events, to local news, to live music from bands

And, of course, there’s music. Listeners along the San Juan Skyway are treated to an incredibly eclectic mix of music, played by mostly volunteer DJs. You might pick up KVNF in Ridgway or Ouray and hear some great folk,

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

acoustic tunes. You can also catch some of the ambient, electronica type of music on the small KURA Mountain Chill station. When you’re in Silverton, you can hear the hyper-local, low power station KSJC and pick up some oldschool funk music. In Silverton, and all the way through Durango and Cortez and Mancos and in Ute tribal territory, you’ll hear KSUT with everything from classic rock, to bluegrass, to Native American music. In Durango you can also hear the college radio station at Fort Lewis, with young DJs and new or alternative music. In Mancos, Cortez, Dolores and Rico you’ll be able to pick up some jazz on KSJD Dryland Community Radio, and in Ophir, Telluride, and Ridgway, you’ll catch KOTO community radio, with live broadcasts from the music festivals or maybe some old dancehall reggae. Beth Lamberson is a radio maven. Lamberson has hosted programs and shows and even managed radio stations all over the Western Slope. She loves the broad range of music and programming you can discover along the route. “I love public radio along the San Juan Skyway because you truly ‘hear’ the character of the region,” says Lamberson. “Whether it is a bluegrass show from KVNF or powwow music on KSUT and then Western music on KSJD with the head of the

local Cowbelles, and suddenly you’re in Telluride tuned into Trash or Treasure as people sell, swap, or look for important and trivial items.” The studios at these stations are as interesting as the music and programs they produce. Endless rows of CDs in jewel cases and stacks of retro vinyl albums surround the throne for the DJs, who use a soundboard, a big, foam-covered mic, and beefy headphones. A neon “On Air” sign might warn visitors to enter the studio quietly, or you might find local musicians, with instruments in hand and microphones at their lips, playing over the airwaves. You might see guests being interviewed, but more often a DJ is there alone, answering the phone, making occasional public service announcements, and playing a unique blend of music. It’s a very special job, being the DJ, and communicating over the airwaves. The DJ doesn’t just inform listeners, they actually set the tone and

create a mood, providing the soundtrack for your day. “When I am on the radio myself, I feel it’s my job to connect whatever it is happening at that moment to the listener,” says Lamberson. “It could be an interview with a performer from Telluride Bluegrass, or critical emergency information due to fires, mudslides or avalanches—or even just playing the right kind of song for a rainy day or a perfect sunny afternoon.” n

PUBLIC RADIO STATIONS ALONG THE SAN JUAN SKYWAY KURA Mountain Chill 95.5 Telluride • 98.9 Ouray

KSJC Silverton Community Radio 92.5 FM-LP Silverton

KDUR Fort Lewis College Community Radio Hesperus 93.9 FM • Durango 91.9 FM

KSJD Dryland Community Radio Mancos 91.1 FM • Cortez & Dolores 91.5 FM • Rico 89.5 FM

KSUT Four Corners Public Radio Southern Ute Tribal Radio Durango & La Plata County 90.1/89.3 FM • Tribal Signal 91.3 FM Cortez & Mancos 100.1 FM • Dolores 91.9 FM • Silverton 91.1 FM

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

CALENDAR

of EVENTS

Lynne Lewis

Mancos

MAY 17 Mancos Cowboy Half Marathon Runners meet at Boyle/Wayside Park for this event, which is sponsored by the Mancos Project, a running club and training center. MAY 24-25 Indian Arts & Culture Festival The communities of Cortez. Dolores, Mancos, and Towaoc and their partners at Mesa Verde National Park celebrate the 14th Annual Mesa Verde Country Indian Arts & Culture Festival. Visitors are invited to “Celebrate Our Song” and the area’s cultural and archeological features are showcased. Patricia Burk

It is easy to see why the prolific Western author Louis L’Amour chose the Mancos area as his home and as the setting for his books. The Mancos Valley continues a 140-year

tradition as the center of ranching at the edge of the San Juan Mountains and Mesa Verde National Park. Mancos is the bridge between the culture of the Old West and the New West, with cattle drives down Main Street and modern art galleries along Grand Avenue, an old-fashioned distillery and a coffee house, as well as easy access to all the hiking, biking, fishing, and hunting that makes people fall in love with the West. n

Patricia Burk

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

JUNE 14 The Great Mancos Arts Roundup The roundup event offers tours of artist studios in Mancos Valley. JUNE 20—SEPTEMBER 26 Mancos Farmers Market Every Thursday afternoon in Boyle Park, farmers and ranchers vend locally grown and raised items. JUNE 28, JULY 26, AUGUST 30, SEPTEMBER 27 Grand Summer Nights The event features a gallery walk and carriage rides through historic Mancos on the last Friday of each month. JULY 26-28 Mancos Days Mancos Days features family fun, parades, softball, music, and great food. AUGUST 31—SEPTEMBER 2 Sugar Pine Ranch Rally Don’t miss the Sugar Pine Ranch Rally, a popular motorcycle rally on Labor Day Weekend. SEPTEMBER 27-29 Mancos Valley-Mesa Verde Country Balloon & Arts Festival Watch hot air balloons float in the sky and enjoy art from all over the region. The balloons ascend as a group, are tethered for balloon rides, and set aglow at night for viewing. The Arts Festival takes place on Saturday, September 28.

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photos by nathan bilow

MICRO DISTILLERIES:

The New Western Saloon Experience

GRAB A STOOL AT THE BAR

ust off the San Juan Skyway in Ridgway, there’s an old style Western saloon, with a weathered plank exterior, a raised wooden bar, and gleaming taps. There are comfortable seats and games, art and hand-scrawled messages on the wall, and often there is live music. It looks like your typical Colorado bar, but it’s not. There’s magic going on here at the Trail Town Still. Behind the bar is where the magic happens. Owner Joe Alaimo pats the copper, potbellied still where he is concocting his latest batch

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

of rum, and smiles. Alaimo is just one of the growing number of craft distillers that have started making their own small batches of liquor in the region. Micro distilleries like Trail Town Still, Montanya Distillers, Mancos Valley Distillery, and Telluride Distilling Co. are part of a growing new enterprise, an industry that like the farm-to-table movement or the craft beer trend has captured the hearts of aficionados. Consumers are embracing local, artisan-style food and drinks over commercial, industrially processed fare, and these distillers are unified in their message: “Ours is the best,” they all say.

Alaimo is a licensed veterinarian, so he says the science behind the distilling process came easy. But it’s not about science, he says. It’s an art. “And like any other piece of art, I’ve got myself in it, my own sensibilities. Three different people working the same still will come up with three different liquors, vary the recipes. Like three different people making lasagne. It’s a creative outlet like anything else.” Alaimo makes it all: smoked black pepper vodka, cinnamon whiskey, brandy, rum, even non-alcoholic ginger ale. But it’s the gin he makes that is his favorite. “We use local juniper and local, untoasted oak to flavor it. Just the pure juniper is delicious, I love it like that. We won a silver medal in the Telluride Distillery Festival,” he says, grinning proudly. Ian James owns Mancos Valley Distillery, and he makes white rum and spiced rum, and coffee liqueur with evaporated cane juice and locally

roasted coffee from Fahrenheit. He says he uses real spices, no extracts, no additives. James got his start brewing beer, and he salvaged some brewing equipment and fashioned his own stills. He uses the purest, local ingredients and does his own fermentation, but his real secret, he divulges, is that he distills each batch twice. “I built this great secondary still that really polishes the rum. Because I double-distill it, it comes out very clean. You don’t have to add a lot of things to it to hide the flavor—it makes nice cocktails, but people drink it on the rocks, too. The flavor of the real spices really comes through.”

“It’s a creative outlet, like anything else.”

James’ tasting room has a funky flair—one of those precious dive bars you love to discover, a local gem. It’s called Ian’s Alley Room, and his VW bus is parked outside. The Alley Room is in an old theatre, so you enter though one of the stage doors. Half the space is devoted to his craft distilling, and the stage and bar take the other half. The tasting room is only open >> SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

“It’s local, casual. It’s sort of like hanging out in one of your buddy’s garages.”

on Fridays and Saturdays after 5 p.m., and sometimes there’s live music, always a mostly local crowd. “It’s kind of cool. You can see the stills. It’s local, casual. It’s sort of like hanging out in one of your buddy’s garages.” Montanya Distillers started out in much the same fashion, a small craft distillery with a small tasting room in the tiny town of Silverton. Owner Karen Hoskin was a graphic designer who worked for a host of businesses for 12 years, building brands for other companies, including one Fortune 500 company. She woke up one morning and decided she wanted to do that for herself. She and her husband Bryce were on a beach in Belize and brainstorming business ideas: what is marketable? And what do we love? Craft distilling, they decided, was marketable. And they love rum. They came up with a special and unique process to make it, one that is influenced by the way cognac is made and by the

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

high elevation in which they operate. Their secret is to take advantage of the natural fluctuations in temperature that occur at altitude, she says. They do their own fermenting from U.S. sugar cane, and distill over an open flame, fired at a low temperature, which causes more caramelization and pulls the natural flavors from the cane wash, and they age their rum in barrels. They have a solar wall in the barrel room; the morning sun takes the temperature to around 70°F and at night the temperature drops to about 40°F. “The pores of the barrel open and close, which opens up the char and the natural vanilla and sucrose brought out by the charring, and contributes a natural sweetness to the spirit. We feel like it’s a catalyst to aging.” They were the fifth distillery in Colorado when they opened, but now there are more than 40 micro distilleries licensed in the state. Montanya has been in business for five years now, and they moved their distillery to Crested

Butte after they started gaining momentum and growing. There is still a Montanya tasting room in Silverton, owned and operated by someone else, almost like a franchise. Montanya Distillers was named the Craft Distillery of the Year in 2013, a national award from the American Distilling Institute. But despite their commercial success, they’re still thinking small. Individual, handcrafted batches, with 100-gallon copper stills. “Instead of bigger stills, we’ve added capacity by using more stills. We’ve kept it this way as we’ve grown. We do everything on-site, just human-scale, handcrafted rum. We have a very authentic, traditional, old-school method of making rum.” Telluride Distilling Co. is one of those 40-something new businesses in Colorado who are joining the craft distillery movement. Owner Abbott Smith is a ski coach who has worked in breweries and wineries since college. Telluride Distilling has a brand-new still setup, and a brand-new tasting room. A cypress wood fermenter, charred white oak barrels. His fiancé has a degree in micro biochemistry, so she is developing handmade strains of yeast. He has the business degree and the entrepreneurial drive; now all it takes is time, time for the licensing to fall into place, time to concoct the first batches, then time for the new whiskeys on the block to age to perfection in their oak barrels. Smith is already dreaming about his new creations, the single malt, and the flavors of chocolate, vanilla, and caramel. “It’s a great market and we want to give it our local flavor. We’ll probably have some of the whiskey done by fall, as because we age it slowly to get what we’re looking for out of it.” In the meantime, Telluride Distilling Co. is going to start out with some pisco, a clear, Peruvian-style spirit from a special old recipe that Smith found from friends he made while spending winters skiing in Chile. “Pisco is a South American (Peru-Argentina-Chile) style brandy, based from grapes. It doesn’t have to age at all, it’s about six days from start to finish.” You can pick up a bottle from any of these micro distilleries, and even find their handcrafted concoctions on the shelves at local liquor stores. But the best way to truly appreciate the spirit behind the spirits is to pull up a barstool at one of the tasting rooms, where you can check out the stills, talk to the owners, and try one of the specialty drinks they make. The Old West was famous for its seedy saloons, gambling, fighting and “red light” districts, but the New West is making its mark with fresh, natural, locally sourced ingredients distilled in small batches of liquor that belong only on the very top shelf. n

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CALENDAR

of EVENTS

Cortez MAY 3 Annual Home & Garden Show Celebrate spring and home beautification at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds in Cortez. MAY 7-11 Ute Mountain-Mesa Verde Birding Festival Spring migrants and early nesters attract birdwatchers from across the nation to the Birding Festival. Located in the Archaeological Center of America, many of the field trips visit spectacular areas such as Mesa Verde National Park and Ute Tribal Park. Workshops, an art show, and a special dinner speaker round out the events at the festival. MAY 10 12 Hours of Mesa Verde Bike Race Mountain bikers compete in this popular annual team relay endurance race at Phil’s World in Cortez.

Cortez is the most ancient stop you’ll make on the San Juan Skyway tour—Montezuma County

has been settled since about A.D. 600 when approximately 100,000 Pueblo Indians made this area their home. Today you can explore the archaeology of the first settlers as well as the arts and culture that still bear their imprint. Cortez also has great networks of mountain biking trails, hiking trails and terrific fishing. The cowboy culture from more recent eras is still alive and well, and you can experience it firsthand at the Ute Mountain Roundup Rodeo, the 85th annual event and a professionally sanctioned rodeo. The region also offers agritourism opportunities, where you can see dryland beans such as the unique old cultivar Anasazi bean or visit some of the lovely modern wineries in the McElmo Canyon and Montezuma Valley. n

MAY 16-18 Dog Show But your best pet forward when the Durango Kennel Club hosts this dog show at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. MAY 24-25 Indian Arts & Culture Festival The communities of Cortez. Dolores, Mancos, and Towaoc and their partners at Mesa Verde National Park celebrate the 14th Annual Mesa Verde Country Indian Arts & Culture Festival. Visitors are invited to “Celebrate Our Song” and the area’s cultural and archeological features are showcased. MAY 31, JUNE 21, JULY 5, SEPTEMBER 12-13 Car Races Cars race around the Montezuma County Fairgrounds track on various evenings throughout the summer. JUNE 5-7 85th Annual Ute Mountain Roundup The Ute Mountain Roundup is a rodeo that started after World War I, and today is sanctioned by the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association. The rodeo features all the classic roping, barrel racing, bronc busting, and bull riding events, and is accompanied by a county fair held at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. JUNE 6-7 Ute Mountain Bear Dance An annual, traditional Ute Mountain Ute Tribe spring celebration, this cultural event is held at Towaoc.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

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Country Home! This 1732 sf home w/ 3 bedrooms, 2 baths on 6.14 acres is great for watching the sun set over the Ute! $289,900 MLS#680850

on this rural Ranch Style home with guest house, RV storage and huge detached garage/shop. The main home is well appointed with a sunlight open layout that takes in the surrounding views. Solar power, Solar hot water, wind power and much more. This is a must see ! $980,000 MLS#662030

Great little horse set up! Nice

35 Acres with Views! One of

floor plan, attached sunroom with stone accents. 3 Bds 2 Ba 2024 SF. Call Scott $238,000 MLS#687795

the best view tracts in the county. 1 share Summit irrig. $199,000

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North Market Gem 2 beds, 1 bath, small finished basement, carport, large lot w/trees, sprinklers, detached studio. Call Scott $140,000

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Cielo Bonito! Multiple Home Designs and your choice of several 5 acre lots w/ new 1,700 sf, 3 Bed / 2 Bath / Garage. Call Scott

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Commercial building! excellent frontage & exposure. 9100 SF, Maintenance free & self sustaining. There is a mixture of office, retail, and warehouse spaces. Call Scott $989,000 MLS#677774

Knoll Top Home! Amazing views of the surrounding valley. Great family house with little to no maintenance and a paved driveway. $320,000

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Tons of West Fork River Frontage! This West Fork log cabin is a dream come true with amazing views of the West Fork and Aspen Groves in the National Forest. The property is 100% usable bottom land with a large pond, guest house and two huge outbuildings. The property borders Aspen filled National Forest and has tons of recreation options.

Riverfront DEAL! Priced way below original purchase price! This home was totally remodeled with large Travertine tile and hand hewn cherry flooring. River views from every room. Large stocked pond with huge trout. 3 bedroom, 3 baths. Upstairs room is set-up as a bunkroom suite that will sleep 8. Large barn for all the toys. 2 full RV set-ups.

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of the west Fork valley. River and Nat. Forest access!

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Dolores River Valley! Big views of the Dolores River and conserved ranch. 2 bedroom, 2 bath with guest house. $399,000 MLS#569090 ced

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Creekside Cabin! 2bd/2ba , 1,100 sq ft located in the Dolores River Valley. National forest and trailhead next door!

1/2 acre lot with the Mancos River running through the back half of the property. Fruit trees and mature treeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with an outstanding building Site.

Huge Price Reduction! Great riverfront acreage with tons of frontage. 18 acre tract!

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CALENDAR

of EVENTS

MAY 24-25 Indian Arts & Culture Festival The communities of Cortez. Dolores, Mancos, and Towaoc and their partners at Mesa Verde National Park celebrate the 14th Annual Mesa Verde Country Indian Arts & Culture Festival. Visitors are invited to “Celebrate Our Song” and the area’s cultural and archeological features are showcased.

Dolores

JUNE 1 Dolores River Festival Listen to great music outdoors, participate in river events, free raft rides, and the river dog contest, and sample the food and craft from vendor booths at the Joe Rowell River Park in Dolores. JUNE 1 Community-Wide Yard Sale Dig through someone else’s treasures and find some for yourself. Call 882-4018 for more information. JULY 4 Dolores Town Food and Fireworks Celebrate Independence Day in Dolores. JULY 6 Fire Works and Celebration over Groundhog Lake and RV Park Catch the pyrotechnic display at dusk over the water at the campground. JULY 27 Chili Cookoff at Groundhog Lake and RV Park Enter your best chili and sample the other entries at this culinary contest.

Dolores has a little bit of everything that makes a Western town great: history, culture

and outdoor recreation. There is incredible fishing, boating, and waterskiing on McPhee Reservoir, the second largest body of water in the state, and other water sports on the local lakes and rivers. Hiking, camping and mountain biking abound in the surrounding San Juan National Forest. The Anasazi Heritage Center is a fun, interactive museum devoted to the history of the ancient cultures of Pueblo, Ute, and Navajo Native Americans, as well as two 12th century pueblo ruins on site. Dolores has an exact replica of an original train depot and a Rio Grande Southern Railroad Museum and a restored Galloping Goose car. Escalante Days is the region’s celebration of its historic Dolores River Valleys, where the Dominguez-Escalante expedition camped in 1776 and mapped and logged the first record of the lands and people in what would become Colorado and Utah. n

AUGUST 2-4 Dog Agility Show at Joe Rowell Park Watch canines perform their best tricks at the dog show. AUGUST 9-10 Escalante Days Escalante Days features parades, booths for vendors, a Kiwanis Club duck race, the Rotary Club mountain bike race, chainsaw and arm wrestling competitions, live music, food, arts and crafts, Galloping Goose Days activities and more for the whole family at Flanders Park. AUGUST 21-23 Dolores Quilt Show Check out the amazing fabric artwork at the quilt show, where all guests will be offered a ballot to vote for their favorites in eight different categories: bed quilt, lap quilt, wall quilt, children’s quilt, art quilt, youth quilter, other (wearable/table/ decorative) and Best of Show. The event is held at the Dolores Community Center. SEPTEMBER 14 Harvest Celebration Celebrate autumn and the harvest season with the Galloping Goose, vendors, and more. SEPTEMBER 21 Harvest Fest Harvest Fest is a fun outdoor fall event, featuring an Old Germany Menu, beer, and more at Groundhog Lake and RV Park.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

The Best Just Keeps

Getting Better new trails planned for phil’s world and boggy draw PHOTOS BY BRETT SCHRECKENGOST

f you think the mountain biking in Dolores and Cortez is the best you’ve ever experienced, you’re not alone. The trail networks at Boggy Draw in Dolores and Phil’s World in Cortez are no longer just local favorites, they’ve become popular tourist draws for both areas. The IMBA (International Mountain Biking Association) MTB project recently voted Phil’s World the #1 trail system in the world. “It’s all subjective,” says Pete Eschallier, co-owner of the local bike shop Kokopelli’s, “but we’ll take it.”

Even if the world-class ranking brings in riders from other locations, Eschallier is not worried about the crowds. He says that the biking all over the region is great, and that there are lots of other trails that are still secret gems: Sage Hen (on the other side of McPhee Reservoir), Sand Canyon, Robb Creek, Stoner Mesa, Bear Creek. “There’s a lot of trails that are just as good that don’t get as much attention,” says Eschallier. “And the more the trails get ridden, the better shape they’re in.”

That’s what makes the Boggy Draw trails so enticing—they get used enough from early spring through late fall to maintain their perfect, buttery-smooth condition. Riding at Boggy Draw is like skiing in powder snow or surfing hollow, glassy waves; it makes you feel like a superhero. There is nothing like a long stretch of undulating singletrack where you can ride fast and confidently to make you feel good about your biking skills. The other benefit of biking Boggy Draw is the great camping at

there is nothing like a long stretch of undulating singletrack where you can ride fast and confidently to make you feel good about your biking skills

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

the trailhead. It’s a fun, family-friendly (but primitive—no potties, no water) camping scene with lots of old Shastas and campfires and s’mores. The area’s namesake trail, Boggy Draw, is easy enough for young kids, and they’ll love mucking around in the bogs. The camping and Boggy Draw trails are also very close to the town of Dolores, and right now, biking to and from the network involves a short section of riding on the highway and sharing the road with cars. But this summer there will be a new addition: singletrack that connects Boggy Draw to the town of Dolores. The proposed trail, the McPhee Overlook Trail, will be a 7-mile connector between the town and the House Creek Campground. The USFS recreation program manager Tom Rice is excited about the project. “It’s pretty darn cool, in terms of the views. You’ll be able to see McPhee Reservoir, the Sleeping Ute Mountain, all the way to Shiprock in New Mexico and the Abajo Mountains in Utah. We hope to have phase one

of the trail open this summer, and people will be able to ride it.” Phil’s World consists of 26.8 miles of “rollercoaster” singletrack, and is known particularly for sections called Rib Cage and Vertebrae—which should give you some clue that the riding is more intermediate and technical. It’s such a popular and fun spot that you might encounter lots of other riders in the parking lot, but once you hit the trails, you will probably think you’ve got them all to yourself. The rides are all one-direction, ridden clockwise, so you won’t have to worry about oncoming bike traffic. Apparently the #1 ranking is not enough for local biking advocates: there are plans in the works to improve on perfection. There are five new trails proposed, approximately 15 miles, and the plan is currently rolling through the environmental approval process with the various land agencies to determine if (or how) it might affect cultural

resources and wildlife. Jeff Christenson is the liaison between the biking groups and the public agencies, and he’s also a mountain biker. He says that he enjoys Phil’s World, and even though its directional trails allow the area to handle a lot of use that might come along with its popularity, the proposed trails could do even more to ensure there is no congestion. “These new trails would provide some new access points, so it wouldn’t be as busy at the trailheads. It would also add some different topography and some different viewsheds.” If you like mountain biking, you’ll love both these areas, as well as all the other undiscovered local trails. If you’re camping, be sure to stock up on supplies at the Dolores Food Market, which is a deli and natural foods shop that carries everything you’ll need. And if you’re biking, be sure to stop at Kokopelli’s Bike and Board for any gear needs, maps, or advice about the local riding. n

Ranch Roundup

Find your ranch stay along the Skyway By Morgan Tilton to kayak lessons and archery. For relaxing evenings, kids’ counselors host overnight campouts for the youngsters, while parents wind down beneath the stars in solitude. Colorado’s outdoor adventures exceed the acres of the homestead, too. Ranches are happy to provide or arrange family excursions. Nearby, the snowy Rocky Mountains and Animas River pull guests to the slopes and rapids for skiing and whitewater rafting. Archeological sites such as Mesa Verde entice history buffs to study ancient dwellings of the Ancestral Puebloans. The kids may opt for zip lining and paintballing—but with so much to do on the ranch, don’t be surprised if they won’t want to leave at all. Whether you’re looking for a romantic weekend getaway or a full-family revival, you’ll find just the right experience along the San Juan Skyway. Giddy up!

Cindy Steuart

addle up. Lasso the steer. Lope away. Horse and cattle skills are top know-hows for ranch hands. But don’t worry—the wranglers can show you the ropes, too, at one of Southwest Colorado’s guest ranches. Morning cookouts with farm fresh eggs and high-meadow afternoon horseback rides will be followed by campfire grill-outs and sing-alongs. And these brim-full days of rich ranch life will make reaching a pillow never seem so sweet. The daybreak greets guests with breathtaking

views of pine-filled ravines, dwells of aspen, and lupine-speckled meadows right outside the cabins. Ranchers invite you into the gardens, orchards, corrals, and coops to meet the animals, till the soil, and learn techniques for cattle driving and horsemanship. Or, grab a novel and pull up a rocking chair. It’s your ranch-stay. Beyond the hayrides, cookouts, and line dances, ranches also offer everything from guided fly-fishing, mountain biking, and hiking trips

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

Majestic Dude Ranch If you’re not swinging a bat in the Major League Baseball-sized baseball field—the only baseball field and batting cage that’s located on a dude ranch in the world—you’re probably ripping trails on your full-suspension mountain bike, taking a kayak lesson on Jackson Lake, or reaching the summit of a 12,800-foot mountain with the ranch owner, Robert. The blend of traditional ranch activities and medley of sports that are available at Majestic Dude Ranch, located 12 miles north of Mancos, will keep you and the kids occupied and stoked. Contact: www.majesticduderanch.com, 800-325-9462, 970-533-7900

Circle K Guest Ranch Surrounded by the San Juan Mountains and San Juan National Forest, Circle K Guest Ranch is an ideal gateway for hunting trips. As a licensed Colorado Outfitter, the ranch offers guided rifle and archery mule deer and elk hunts, and provides all the necessities: a map room, horses, animal retrieval, and game packing. A meat-hanging room, cooler, and processor are on site, too. For anglers, a stretch of the Dolores River runs right through the property and is stocked with trout several times throughout the summer. Alternatively, fly-fishing guides provide half- or full-day wade trips, or horseback-fishing trip combos to explore more remote bends. The ranch also hosts a low-lying ropes course for leadership and team building skills. Among the most popular activities on the ranch: guest-run rodeos are top-notch with figure-eight barrel racing, flag pick-up, and team relays. Contact: www.ckranch.com, 970-562-3826, 800-477-6381 Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch From arrowheads to pottery pieces this guest ranch is chock-full of historic remnants of the Anasazi tribes. Owner Garry Adams escorts guests on tours on and off the ranch to explore pictographs, petroglyphs, ancient ruins, and unique geological formations. The ranch offers unique homestays such as the Mokee House, which features ancient Pueblo-style architecture. The home is adorned with Anasazi artifacts and characterized with a lookout tower, keyhole door, and an outdoor horno—also known as an oven—for slow-cooking meals. And, it’s topped off with a private sauna and panoramic views that sweep across ranch. Anytime, guests can help themselves to veggies in the ranch’s greenhouse or fruit in its orchard such as plums, apricots, apples, and pears; or fresh, freerange eggs from the chicken house. Natural grassfed beef and lamb is raised right on the ranch, too, and is available for guests to purchase. Contact: canyonoftheancients.com, 970-565-4288 Wilderness Trails Ranch Sore from the Cowboy 101 lessons? Enjoy an evening Thai massage and morning hatha yoga class, and then get right back in the corral to learn cattle-handling skills such as cutting, penning, roping, and sorting. Once you’ve got the technique down you’ll be invited on an all-day cattle drive. Other ranch clinics include fly-fishing casting and horsemanship. Outside of the classroom, take a half- or full-day group horseback ride through the Weminuche and Piedra Wilderness Areas. For riders that are ready to kick up the speed and blaze the trails, trotting and loping trips are on the menu. Contact: www.wildernesstrail.com, 800-527-2624, 970-247-0722 n SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

CALENDAR

of EVENTS

May 23-26 Mountainfilm in Telluride The festival celebrates the outdoors, featuring films about adventure and ecology, symposiums, and lectures. June 2-7 Wild West Fest Celebrate the culture of the West at this weeklong, family-oriented festival hosted by the Sheridan Arts Foundation. June 6-8 Telluride Balloon Festival Watch hot air balloons soar above the San Miguel Valley or stroll past them, tethered and aglow on main street during the early evening. June 19-22 Telluride Bluegrass Festival This year marks the 41st annual festival, one of the country’s most renowned bluegrass music events, held during the weekend of the summer solstice. This year’s lineup includes Steve Winwood, Del McCoury, Jason Isbell, Nickel Creek, Béla Fleck, Brandi Carlisle and more.

Cindy Steuart

Telluride is one of the most strikingly beautiful places you will ever see; it is also known as the

“Festival Capital of the Rockies” because of its vast array of cultural events each summer. Like many of these Western towns, Telluride started out as a mining community but earned renown for its skiing and mountaineering. Today, visitors can climb the acclaimed Via Ferrata route high above town or to the top of Bridal Veil Falls (the state’s tallest waterfall), see a Grammy-award winning musician in Town Park, catch a free ride up on the gondola and hike around or zip back to town on one of the downhill mountain biking courses, eat at one of the top-rated restaurants in the country, or even watch a world premiere of a new movie at one of the film festivals. There are galleries to stroll, classes to take, and rivers and trails to explore, and don’t miss the Telluride Historical Museum, which hosts unique exhibits, indoors and outdoors. n

June 26-29 Telluride Wine Festival The festival features four days of fine wines, seminars, tastings, winemakers’ luncheons, and cooking demonstrations. July 4 Telluride 4th of July Celebration Telluride’s Independence Day features a parade, a community barbecue, games and activities for families in Town Park, and a grand fireworks display after dark. July 6-12 Telluride Plein Air Festival Landscape artists from across the country come to paint the region’s vistas; plein air painting is done outdoors, and the art is exhibited and sold to benefit the event’s host, the Sheridan Arts Foundation. July 12-13 The Ride Festival KOTO Community Radio hosts a two-day music concert in Town Park, featuring Edward Sharpe & The Magnetic Zeros, Spoon, JJ Grey & Mofro, Joan Osborne, and more. July 10-14 Telluride Yoga Festival Yoga instructors from all over the world convene in Telluride to offer workshops in all types of yoga, meditation, and kirtan. July 20-27 Telluride Playwrights Festival The festival offers a laboratory setting for actors, playwrights, and directors to network and to nurture new work.

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

Cindy Steuart

Telluride

July 18 Ah Haa Art Auction This madcap annual fundraiser for the local arts school features a live auction with entertainment and a silent auction for all types of artwork and prizes. This year’s theme is “Lights, Camera, Auction” and celebrates local film culture. August 1-3 Telluride Jazz Celebration From international jazz legends to up-and-coming brass ensembles, the annual festival hosts the best of the genre at Town Park during the day and at the local venues in the evening. This year’s lineup features Dragon Smoke (Eric Lindell, Ivan Neville, Stanton Moore and Robert Mecurio), Lettuce, Snarky Puppy, Grupo Fantasma, and more. August 7-17 Telluride Chamber Music Festival Classical music concerts are held outdoors and in various small venues around town. August 16-19 Telluride Mushroom Festival Symposiums, classes, forays, and a parade all celebrate fungi in this fun weekend event. August 29-September 1 Telluride Film Festival Telluride hosts an internationally acclaimed film festival with world premieres, movie stars, filmmakers, directors, and a free outdoor cinema. September 6 Imogene Pass Run Runners start in Ouray and cross over 13,114-foot Imogene Pass, finishing in Telluride. September 12-14 Telluride Blues & Brews Festival This popular fall music festival features craft beers from all over the country and a beer tasting, as well as big name music acts in Town Park and at late night “Juke Joints” performances in local venues. This year’s lineup includes Violent Femmes, George Clinton and Parliament Funkadelic, The Robert Cray Band, Anders Osborne, Dumpstaphunk, and more. September 18-21 Telluride WOW Festival A weekend festival celebrating fitness, wellness and health with presentations and events.

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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

ou can be forgiven if you forget, as you spin past the cars and trucks going down the Million Dollar Highway and next to the gaping gorge and jagged cliffs of Ouray, that road biking is not an adrenaline sport. Or if you are so caught up in the moment while freewheeling downhill that you forget that the true pleasure of cycling is in its slow roll, the picturesque views, gorgeous landscapes, and tiny roadside treasures that you miss when you are driving by them at an automobile’s speed. Because cycling is truly about both: the beauty of discovering a place on a bike, and the thrill of the ride. Lizard Head Cycling Guides creates tours that allow you to enjoy each pace. The 13-mile stretch of the Million Dollar Highway from Red Mountain to Ouray is the last leg of one of owner John Humphries’ tours. “It leaves a good taste in your mouth. That descent is probably one of the most spectacular we have. People who see the gorge for the first time usually just stop and look and try to comprehend it.” Humphries likes to dazzle his clients. He spends most of his time doing recon, biking and traveling and trying to find the perfect places, from lonely stretches of desert road with very few cars, to winding asphalt with wide shoulders that goes through scenic areas or National Parks, and every unique stop therein. It’s hard enough for someone to >>

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

take time off for a cycling tour, never mind handling all the planning and logistics. And if you do plan your own adventure, you’re spinning the roulette wheel. There’s not a lot of information on the Internet about most of the out-of-the-way roads. You probably won’t find the perfect spot for the picnic lunch, or the natural hot springs to soak in, and you might miss the obscure local lodge that grows its own food and serves gourmet fare. And you definitely won’t have a bike mechanic in a SAG wagon on standby to make sure you don’t spend half a day trying to repair your own chain. “People want to truly go on a vacation. What we’re trying to do is find these places and link them up, so people can go ride their bike and be in the moment and relax. It really brings out the best in people.” Humphries background is in mountain biking, and he prefers uncrowded roads. Some of his tours even traverse hardpacked dirt stretches to get to paved stretches with no traffic. Like the Moki Dugway, a 1,100-foot switchback climb that travels up a red rock wall and rewards cyclists at the top of Steer Mesa with Anasazi ruins and pictographs. Or the Burr Trail, which cuts through the Waterpocket fold, the main feature of Capitol Reef National Park. The geology is surreal, horizontal rock beds dramatically thrust into the air, and there’s a paved one-lane pass, almost like a bike path in the middle of nowhere. Some of these are very remote places, and he calls them “digital detox” trips because you won’t need your phone and

you won’t have wifi until you get to the hotel that night. He says that these types of places, with beautiful scenery and very little traffic, offer a more social, enjoyable ride, without being worried about cars whizzing by or the distractions of urban life. “When you get to an area that’s quiet, where you can ride two abreast, it’s much more serene. It changes the experience. It’s almost like a different sport.” Humphries also seeks out the perfect roadside stops, like Hell’s Backbone Grill, a lodge/eatery that boasts its own farm, with heirloom fruit

SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2014

trees and heritage layer-hens, and grass-fed lamb and beef. Or the Louvre Creek Vineyard and B&B, where you can sit on the deck overlooking the vineyard and sample the fare made by the owner, a French chef, who makes his own wine. “That’s what’s behind these trips, is finding places like these. It’s the discovery, the adventure. And when you ride your bike someplace, you really feel it, taste it, smell it … and experience it all the more because of the effort it took to arrive at the destination. That’s the fun.” n

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