SanJuan
Skyway VISITOR GUIDE Summer/Fall 2013
dolores river Brewery
Pursuing Brewing Alchemy Ancient Arts reinterPreted
woodfired Pizzas, sensational salads, and the finest selection of Ales, lagers, and stouts.
(970) 882-hOPs (4677) Open 4pm - closed monday
Open 8 to 8 Everyday For Custom Service - 970-882-7353 www.doloresfoodmarket.com Gateway to Four Corners Recreation. Ask About Our Favorite Spots. 2
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
hand dipped ice-cream, cinnamon rolls & pies
(970) 882-7910
Dinner Special S • FriDay FiSh • SaturDay prime rib
Welcome to the flavors of the Southwest
8th St & Hwy 145 Family restaurant, daily specials, carry out, sack lunches, banquets, catering… • open 7 days/week 8am - 9pm
SunDay breakFaSt buFFet 7am - 1pm
44 West Main Street • Cortez, CO 81321 • 970.565.3303
Full Service Bike Shop Stop in for all your Biking and Outdoor needs 9000 Square foot showroom
West Fork Gallery Karma Coffee & Wine Bar
Come see us for trail maps and info from our friendly knowledgeable staff. All four corner adventures start here! 130 W. Main • Cortez, CO • 970.565.4408
See! t s u M A
The “Macy’s” of Dolores A Unique Consignment Store
clothing • jewelry furnishings • rugs • art & more ~
341 Railroad Ave • Dolores, CO (970) 882.7865
Fine Art • Custom Framing Interior Design • Furniture Gifts • Wine & Coffee Bar Window Treatments
970-882-2211
105 So 5th • Dolores, CO 81323
www.westforkgallery.com SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Table of Contents
Towns Along the Skyway
8
Ridgway
14
Ouray
20
Silverton
28
24-25 San Juan Skyway map and routes
18
38
48 4
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
36
Durango
Mancos
40
Cortez
Features 10 16 18 21 22 26 30 32 34 37 38 41 43 48 50
42
Dolores
46
Telluride
Drop A Line Fishing in the San Juan Mountains
Drivers for Hire Let someone else take the wheel when you go off-road
Soaking it In Hot springs, vapor caves, and pools for relaxing and rejuvenating
Going the Distance Silverton is a hub for long-distance runners
Fresh is Best Regional farmers’ markets offer locally grown goods
Rebirth of the Growler Craft beer being brewed all along the San Juan Skyway
The Need for Speed Meet kayaking’s most frenzied race: boatercross
From Train To Tree Top Zip-line adventures accessed by railroad
Step Back in Time Historic opera houses and hotels along the Skyway
The Three Sisters Agriculture traditions are still thriving
Dig Into Archaeology Crow Canyon Archaeological Center hosts unique programs
The Next Great Ride Mountain bikers discover Phil’s World
Escape to McPhee & Boggy Draw Boating or biking, pick your pleasure
From Town Park to Musical Mecca Transforming Telluride’s outdoor amphitheatre
Upshot Jumping for joy, photo feature
3025 s/f home | 1180 s/f covered deck | 3500 s/f barn oversized heated garage | 4 ponds 193+ acres (some irrigated) | 360Ëš views
Dolores River frontage | Backs to National Forest 93 acres | Irrigation | Approx. 3000 s/f home 1750 s/f shop/garage
MLS# 678054 | $1,400,000
MLS# 678447 | $3,500,000
101 acres with irrigation | 2360 s/f home | huge workshop/garage plus guest quarters | Borders public land
MLS# 667977 | $1,875,000
220 acres | 10 minutes to Durango | Easy access | Spectacular views
MLS# 662445 | $1,540,000
Pat Janz
Lori Elworthy
970.749.1497 pjanz@yesdurango.com
970.799.0159 lelworthy@gmail.com
SanJuan
Skyway VISITOR GUIDE
Publisher David W. Oskin
SanJ ~ uan
Skyway Editor-in-Chief VISITOR GUIDE Deb Dion ~ Editorial Assistant Brittany Lane ~ Creative Director Kristal Rhodes ~ Copy Editor/Proofreader Mira Perrizo ~ Advertising Director Jenny Page ~ Web Director Susan Hayse ~ Contributing Writers Brittany Lane, Jesse James McTigue, Claire Ricks ~ Contributing Photographers Ryan Bonneau, Kathryn Burke, Ben Knight, Brett Schreckengost, Kane Scheidegger, Cindy Steuart The San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide is produced by Telluride Publishing. Telluride Publishing also produces Telluride Magazine and the Telluride Calendar. Our products are for sale at retail shops in Telluride and on our website: telluridemagazine.com For correspondence, subscriptions and advertising: editor@TellurideMagazine.com 970.728.4245
Kane Scheidegger
Š2013 Telluride Publishing Co., Inc., a division of Big Earth Publishing Company LLC. Cover and contents are fully protected and must not be reproduced in any manner without written permission from the publisher.
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
~ Cover Photo By Ryan Bonneau
I
Behind the Wheel
really love to drive. With every turn of the road, there is something new in your windshield, a place to discover and see. One of my first jobs was driving cross-country camping tours from the East Coast to the West Coast, with a van full of foreigners, tents, and gear, and I have driven through all of the states in the country. (Yes, there were lots of arguments about music on the radio and air conditioning vs. windows being rolled down, but other than that, it was a dream job.) I’ve seen every noteworthy highway in the U.S., and the very best stretch of all of these is the San Juan Skyway—for sheer beauty, nothing beats this 236-mile loop of road. The San Juan Mountains are the brightest jewel of all the Rocky Mountains, jagged peaks that pierce the sky and hover over pristine forests, meadows full of wildflowers, high alpine lakes, and free-flowing rivers. But it’s not until you stop driving that the real adventure along the San Juan Skyway starts. No matter what you like to do, the San Juan Skyway has something to offer. History buff?
Check out the historic buildings on pp. 34-35, the vestiges of the mining era you can discover while jeeping on pp. 16-17, or the ancient culture of the Pueblo Indian civilizations being unearthed at Crow Canyon, pp. 38-39. If you like adventure, you are certainly on the right road. Whether you are taking to the river for some boating, tubing, SUP (stand-up paddling), or a day of fishing, check out the boatercross story on pp. 30-31 and the fishing piece on p. 10. Is your idea of adventure getting up into the high country? Runners and mountain bikers blaze the trails around the San Juans on p. 21 and at Phil’s World on p. 41, and intrepid thrill-seekers take to the sky on a zip line on pp. 32-33. If you want to taste some of the finer things that the towns along the Skyway have to offer, you can check out the farmers’ markets and craft shows or quench your thirst at one of the myriad craft breweries on pp. 26-27. And if you’re looking for entertainment and fun,
look no further: you can hear great live music outdoors and celebrate summer at one of the festivals on p. 47 and elsewhere along the Skyway. Make sure you take time to soak it all in, not just the action, culture, food, drink, and history, but also the therapeutic waters featured on pp. 18-19 in the guide. There is no better way to relax after a long drive than to kick back in one of the great natural hot springs found in the San Juans. Whatever makes you stop and pull over, I can promise it will be worthwhile. The San Juan Skyway is like no other place in the world, with memorable places, people, and things to do, and this guide offers just a glimpse of what you can discover for yourself. n Travel safely!
Deb Dion
Editor, San Juan Skyway Visitor Guide
Brett Schreckengost
“For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” – Robert Louis Stevenson
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Calendar
of Events
May 10–12 Balloons & Varooms Hot air ballooning and specialty cars are featured at this event.
Ridgway
RIGS fishrigs.com
June 15 Trail Town Ten Miler Ten miles of country roads await runners in this event, which travels through some of the classic oldtown section of Ridgway. The race is a part of the Ouray County Race Series. July 4, 11, 19 & 26 The 5th Annual Ridgway Concert Series Catch live, outdoor music shows featuring the March Fourth Marching Band, the Shinyribs, Sister Sparrow & the Dirty Birds, and Roses’ Pawn Shop. For more information visit www.ridgwayconcertseries.com August 10 Mt. Sneffels 1/2 & Marathon Run/Walk Runners traverse the country roads back and forth from Ouray in this popular annual race. For more information, visit www.mtsneffels.org
Kane Scheidegger
Even Hollywood took note of Ridgway’s spectacular Western scenery and character, setting the
original film True Grit here decades ago. Ridgway is the northernmost entry to the San Juan Skyway and is known as the Gateway to the San Juans. Its beautifully manicured town park hosts music concerts, arts festivals, and a farmers’ market and its county fairgrounds is home to a great professional rodeo that caps off the summer. Ridgway has a sprawling reservoir with camping and its tributary is the Uncompahgre River, with all sorts of watersports opportunities, boating, SUP, tubing, fishing, and waterskiing. The community is a hub for artists and craftsmen, with lots of galleries and outdoor sculpture, and the Ridgway Railroad Museum pays tribute to the town’s advent as a transportation hub, headquarters of the Rio Grande Southern narrow gauge railroad serving miners, ranchers and farmers
Sue Williamson
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
in the 1800s. n
August 9–11 The 29th Annual Ridgway Rendezvous Arts & Crafts Festival Peruse the best work of regional and local artisans and vendors at Ridgway Town Park. Call 1-800-220-4959 for more information. September 1–3 Labor Day Ouray County Fair & Rodeo Real cowboys showcase the roping and riding that makes the West special at Ridgway’s Ouray County Fairgrounds & 4-H Event Center. For more information, call 970-626-5181 September 20–22 Ridgway Railroad Museum Railroad Days Ride into history at this celebration of the Rio Grande Southern narrow gauge railroad. October 26 Rhythm Run 10K/5K A fun run for racers of all abilities, this race is sponsored by the local school district.
Ridgway Businesses
Stay & Soak in Colorado’s
Solar Thermal Pools Chipeta Solar Springs Resort features: 25 Unique Rooms with Fireplaces & Private Hot Tubs Solar-heated, Saltwater Soaking Pools • Spa, Steam Room & Cedar Sauna • Four Corners Restaurant & Rooftop Bar with Live Music • Fitness Center & Bike Rentals • Kiva Conference Center Honeymoons, Weddings, Receptions & Catering
CHIPETA .COM 304 S. Lena • Ridgway, Colorado • 800.633.5868
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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RIGS fishrigs.com
Drop a Line Fishing in the San Juan Mountains
I
magine hiking into a remote stretch of river on a fishing excursion. It’s a sunny, warm day and you are in a peaceful, quiet setting. Suddenly you are engulfed by a huge swarm of Caddis flies, small brown or olive-colored insects emerging from the surface of the water, mating and returning to the surface to lay eggs, a blanket hatch. The fish are a part of the frenzy, “It’s not just aggressively coming to about the fishing; the top of the river and snatching the insects. You it’s often more about are not just witnessing the incredible places one of nature’s majestic scenes; you are also being it takes you.” treated to some incredible fishing conditions. “The life cycle of aquatic insects is very short, a couple of days to a couple of weeks. During these moments of emerging and returning, the insects are everywhere, literally covering the water,” says fishing/rafting guide and RIGS owner Tim Patterson. “That’s when it all comes together.” Patterson has led fly-fishing, boating, and ecotours throughout Central America, Mexico
and the southwestern U.S., but settled in Ridgway because of the quality of the angling and the beautiful waters. “The drainages of the San Juan Mountains, within the San Juan Skyway, are home to the headwaters of the Animas, San Miguel, Dolores and Uncompahgre Rivers, plus a ton of smaller tributaries feeding into these drainages with outstanding high alpine access to mountain lakes and creeks,” says Patterson. “The rivers here are more pristine, it’s not crowded, and there are a lot of opportunities in the backcountry for remote wilderness access. It’s not just about the fishing; it’s often more about the incredible places it takes you.” Sublime moments on the water don’t just happen—they are the result of a lot of variables. Patterson says it’s all about harmonizing with your environment, targeting times during the summer when the light is low on the water, the seasonal nature of the various hatches, knowing the pre- and postspawning behavior of trout. Conditions are based on a lot of factors such as air and water temperatures, river flows, and even what kind of snowpack existed during the winter. That’s a major benefit of having a guide, says Patterson, to help you find these optimal environments and create great experiences so you can pick up skills and get out on your own. “Ultimately, it’s supposed to be fun,” he says. “Fishing is an amazing way to get in tune with nature. If you’re too focused on the endgame of catching the fish, you’re really missing the point. Fishing is also about the overall experience.” Patterson and other outfitters are anxious to share their experiences with visitors in all kinds of ways, from SUP (stand-up paddling on boards), to river tubing, rafting and other kinds of boating—and, of course, fishing. n
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
A Community of Arts You can’t walk anywhere in Ridgway without seeing a piece of sculpture.
Ridgway is a haven for artists, and PARC (Public Art Ridgway Colorado) has ensured that their work gets seen, with installations all around town by nationally known artists. Even the Grammy Awards are created here, by Billings Artworks, and there are several studios and galleries in town, as well as the Ridgway Chautaqua Society, a nonprofit that took over the century-old Sherbino Theatre and revived it as a performance and arts venue. Ridgway’s Mayor, John Clark, also a glass artist, was excited by the state’s designation and funding of the town as a prospective creative district. “We hope to bring in creative people from all over the world, inviting them to visit, as well as to stay and start new creative ventures.” n
PHOTOGRAPHIC REFLECTIONS
ART PHOTOGRAPHY BY CECILY ANNE 970-240-4630 • CECILYANNEPHOTOGRAPHY.COM SIGNED
& LIMTED EDITIONS PRINTED ON HIGH-GLOSS METAL PLATE
FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE VISIT MY WEBSITE
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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A
ctor Dennis Weaver is remembered for his roles in Gunsmoke and McCloud, but around Ridgway, where he lived, he is also celebrated for his environmentalism. Weaver donated 175 acres near his home, which became the River Sage development, with 130 acres of open space that includes a tribute to him, the Dennis Weaver Memorial Park.
Remembering
Dennis Weaver
A giant, cast bronze sculpture of an eagle adorns the park, weighing 2,800 pounds and with a 20-foot wingspan—you can’t miss it. The eagle, which is the centerpiece of an astronomically aligned medicine wheel, is probably not the only eagle you will see in the 60-acre park and wilderness preserve. The trail and bike path that wind along the Uncompahgre River in the preserve pass by many eagles’ nests and it is not unusual to see the birds flying in the corridor, along with myriad other wildlife that make their home there. The park also has restrooms, benches and covered picnic tables and can be rented for events, 970-626-5308. n
R I D G WAY - O U R AY
Lodge & Suites Quite Possibly the Best Two-Diamond Property in Colorado q Complimentary continental breakfast
q Refrigerator/microwave in every room
q Complimentary high-speed Wi-Fi
q Indoor heated pool, spa, sauna,
in every room
970-626-5444 / 800-368-5444
exercise room, sun deck and guest laundry
q
www.RidgwayLodgeAndSuites.com
Intersection of Hwy 550 & Hwy 62 12
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
Calendar
of Events
May 31, June 21, July 13, 27, August 10, September 14 Wright Opera House Summer Music Series Catch performances by Over the Rhine, Dan Navarro, The Trishas, Griffin House, Jack Ingram, and Shawn Mullins. www.thewrightoperahouse.org
Ouray
June 5 Taste of Ouray Sample the fine cuisine from all around town at the Ouray Community Center. 970-325-4746 June 6, 13, 20, 27 Mountain Air Music Series Enjoy outdoor concerts in Fellin Park, Thursday evenings in June, presented by the Ouray Hot Springs Pool. June 16 Black Canyon Car Show Check out the vintage and classic autos at this expo at Fellin Park. 970-325-4746
Kane Scheidegger
When you drive into Ouray you may wonder where you took a wrong turn and how you ended up in the European Alps. From
Ouray’s incredible Uncompahgre Gorge (which is famous for its manmade ice climbing park in winter) to the pristine and beautiful mountains in which it is encircled, as well as its quaint Victorian architecture, old-fashioned shops, and historic main drag and museum, the town has a distinctly alpine feel. Ouray has all kinds of recreational opportunities, such as hiking, running, camping, jeeping, river sports, and mountaineering; whatever you do, don’t miss the Perimeter Trail, which offers a stunning view of Cascade Falls and the gorge. After you recreate, relax by visiting one of Ouray’s geothermal treats—hot springs, a pool, or vapor caves. n
July 4 Old-Fashioned 4th of July Celebration From pancakes in the morning to the booming sound of the last firework echoing across the canyon, Ouray celebrates all day long. Don’t miss the Main Street Parade and famous Volunteer Fire Department Water Fights. August 3–25 Annual Quilt Show Check out the quilting exhibit at the Ouray Museum. August 3–10 52nd Annual Artists’ Alpine Holiday Local, national and international artists submit work for a week-long celebration at the oldest juried art show in Colorado at the Ouray Community Center. www.ourayarts.org August 6 Geology Tour Learn more about the local geology with the Ouray County Historical Society. 970-325-4576 August 10 Mt. Sneffels 1/2 & Marathon Racers take off at Fellin Park in Ouray for the half-marathon and marathon runners depart from Ridgway to make a roundtrip on country roads. www.mtsneffels.org
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
August 16–18 Ouray Canyoneering Festival Guided canyoneering trips, gear vendors, and social events for participants. www.ouraycanyonfestival.net August 23–24 High Graders Holiday Mining Competition & Heritage Weekend Old-fashioned drilling and mining competitions take place at the Ouray Hot Springs Park, 970-901-9924 August 24 Grillin’ & Chillin’ Brew & Music Festival Sample the best microbrews in western Colorado while enjoying live music in beautiful Fellin Park or step over to the adjacent Miners’ Park to watch the mining competitions. September 1–3 Labor Day Ouray County Fair & Rodeo Watch rodeo contestants and check out the county fair at the Ouray County Fairgrounds & 4-H Event Center. 970-626-5181 September 7 Imogene Pass Run Runners start in Ouray and cross over 13,114-foot Imogene Pass, finishing in Telluride. www.imogenerun.com September 12–15 25th Annual Ouray Jeep Jamboree Celebrate the great jeeping in this region at the jamboree. September 21, 28 Ouray Mountain Trail Run Two fall races on the trails and country roads surrounding Ouray are part of the Ouray County Race Series. www.ouraytrailrun.org September 28–29 John Fielder Autumn Photography Workshop Learn outdoor photography from one of the region’s most noted photographers. Ouray County Historical Society, 970-325-4576 October 5 Oktoberfest & 49th Annual Jeep Raffle Drawing Announcing the lucky winner of a new Jeep Wrangler is the thrilling finale to this annual celebration of polka, brats and beer at the Ouray Community Center. www.ouraycolorado.com
The best selection in the West!
Beautiful Ouray, Colorado We carry a wide selection of clothing, gifts, souvenirs & memorabilia to choose from. If you can’t make it into our store in Ouray, Co you can easily make your purchase via our online store at www.mountainfevershirts.com
Visit us at our new Bear Creek gift store Opening on May 1, 2013
609 Main Street, Ouray, CO 81427 (970) 325-4227 Mountain Fever Shirts & Gifts: 644 Main Street • Ouray, CO 81427 • (970) 325-4408 • www.mountainfevershirts.com
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Let Someone Else Take the Wheel When You Go Off-Road
Drivers for Hire D
on Fehd is going to the library again—but not just for himself. He’s a jeep driver for Switzerland of America, Inc. in Ouray, and like all great drivers, he’s going to the library to dig into the local history so that you don’t have to. He enjoys learning about the regional lore, and he loves sharing it with passengers as he drives them up and over the mountain passes and by the old mines around here. He chuckles as he tells just one of the many stories that bring to life what it was like for the first prospectors who pioneered and built the roads, the miners who came to the San Juans in the 1870s to make or lose their fortune. “In 1896, Imogene Basin was still a silver-mining district, with over two hundred low-producing mining claims that went out of business after the silver crash,” says Fehd. That was when Thomas Walsh happened into the area, looking for a limestone flux smelter to be used in Silverton. While exploring an abandoned silver mine, what
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
“The longer the trips, the more into the backcountry and history you get.”
Ouray Victorian Inn
50 Third Ave • Ouray, CO 81427 • 970 325 7222 • victorianinnouray.com Ryan Bonneau
he actually found was a six-mile quartz vein with large quantities of gold that had been overlooked by all the silver miners in the region; he bought up all the surrounding claims for pennies on the dollar or at auction and became wildly rich after selling the Camp Bird in 1902, and later his daughter was wealthy enough to buy the Hope Diamond. “He was thinking outside the box,” says Fehd with a smile. “He saw something that everyone else missed.” Fehd is able to do much the same thing—while many people would drive up over 13,114-foot Imogene Pass and just see the glorious mountain views, Fehd imagines the miners that first built this road and the stories about the honeycomb of mine tunnels that perforate the mountains here. He likes to take it all in, from the centuryold tales to elk, mule deer, bighorned sheep, marmots, hawks and eagles scuttering around, to the tiny wildflowers that blossom in a huge, bright carpet that sets the mountains ablaze with color. “The longer the trips, the more into the backcountry and history you get,” says Fehd. “I try to keep it entertaining, informative, and fun.”
eal Yogi Bea R e h t t e R At Me
Jellystone Park ™ of Black canyon 22045 Hwy 550 Montrose, Co 81403 970-249-6382 www.backcanyonjellystone.com
Bring this ad for your discount
This area is called the “Jeep Capital of the World,” and there are more off-road trails in Ouray County than in any other Colorado county, says Fehd. It was in the late 1940s that the government was selling off its old surplus WWII jeeps cheaply, and people started exploring all the old mining roads. “There are places where the off-roading is more difficult, but this is the most scenic jeeping in the country, with all the mountains.” The driving is difficult enough that some people want to forgo it, and just enjoy the scenic beauty of the region. Jeeping companies offer them the opportunity to do both. “A lot of people say ‘I would never drive this myself,’” says Fehd. “People like the tours so much better than driving, and I like taking people on an adventure, an experience they’ve never had before.” n
The largest selection of vacation rental homes, cabins, condos and townhomes in the area.
Visit our website at www.ourayvacationrentals.com to view our extensive array of available properties or call 970.325.7280. SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Soaking it In Hot Springs, Vapor Caves, and Pools for
Relaxing and Rejuvenating
A
bout 60 million years ago, the plates of the Earth’s crust began to collide and fold over each other, like a giant head-on collision, forcing the surface upward and giving birth to the Rocky Mountains amid violent, volcanic eruptions. That’s nothing for you to worry about—it’s something for you to enjoy, because the heated, geothermal water that creeps upward through the faults in the earth’s crust creates the wonderful hot springs and vapor caves
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that you can soak in on your trip around the San Juan Skyway.
hot water can make you feel better—but that is something we already know.
Soaking in hot water loaded with minerals is not just relaxing, it’s therapeutic. Because heated water can hold more dissolved solids, hot springs often have a very high mineral content, everything from lithium to calcium, even radium. Some forms of hydrotherapy or balneotherapy even claim to cure certain diseases, which is a fancy way of saying that soaking in mineralized
There are lots of geothermal pools and springs that dot the San Juan Skyway. Some of them are hidden secret spots, but there are also great public areas where you can soak, dine, camp, stay in a room, and even get a massage. Here is a list of the public areas where you can soak along the Skyway, and each establishment carefully posts temperatures and mineral contents.
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
Orvis
Orvis, in Ridgway, has seven soaking pools of various temperatures, including an indoor pool/swimming area and private indoor tubs as well as an outdoor sauna. There is on-site camping and lodging and a changing room with showers and bathrooms, and the outdoor areas are beautifully manicured. Orvis is a clothing-optional spot where you can soak in the nude. (Bathing attire is required only in the indoor pool.) 970-626-5324
Ouray Hot Springs Pool
What’s more fun than a water slide? A water slide that empties into a hot springs pool. The Ouray Hot Springs Pool first opened in 1926 and it has a large hot pool, a smaller, hotter pool, water slides and a cooler pool for swimming laps. There is a changing room with lockers, showers, and bathrooms, and a fitness center and playground outside. The pond outside has turtles and giant goldfish, and kids can buy fish food and feed them. 970-325-7073
Warm Classic Independently distributed by:
Majestic Peaks Custom Homes L.L.C. Design/Build Servicing Colorado and Neighboring States
The Historic Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa & Lodging
This is a casual but elegant inn and spa in Ouray that features a unique natural hot springs vapor cave with a soaking pool, an outdoor swimming pool, and the “Lorelei,” a private outdoor spa with a soaking pool. All of the Wiesbaden’s pools and cave are continuously fed by its hot springs, without re-circulation of the water. There is a full range of spa treatments available. Stay overnight in one of the rooms and soak, or purchase a pass for the day. 970-325-4347
Free Plan Book Viewing at www.lindal.com/LAC/?dlr=2324
Warm Modern
Call to visit Model Home in Montrose, CO majesticpeaks2324@gmail.com
970-240-9250
www.MajesticPeaks.com
World Class Architecture
Box Canyon Lodge & Hot Springs
Guests of the Box Canyon Lodge in Ouray can soak outdoor in mineral hot springs tubs, which are terraced on the mountainside behind the lodge. There are four giant redwood tubs that offer great views of the surrounding mountains. 970-325-4981
Trimble Spa and Natural Hot Springs
Wiesbaden Hot Springs Spa and Lodgings
Trimble is located in Durango, and there is lodging available on-site. There are two saunas, outdoor mineral hot springs pools, an outdoor lap pool for swimming, and a beautiful, sprawling poolside lawn for relaxing or picnicking. The spa offers massage and body and beauty treatments. There is a changing area with showers and bathrooms. 970-247-0111
Dunton Hot Springs
Dunton Hot Springs is located in a serene alpine setting outside of Rico and near Telluride, and it is the most upscale and luxurious of the hot springs settings on the Skyway. Dunton is a restored ghost town, with hand-hewn log cabins, an old saloon/dancehall, an exquisite bathhouse, gorgeous indoor-outdoor hot springs pools, a spring on the river, and a private hot springs tub in one of the cabins. There is an on-site spa with a large menu of treatments, a gourmet chef who sources all of his natural ingredients from local farms and ranches, and an extensive wine list that includes regional wines. There are also high-end “tents,” canvas rooms, that can be rented during the summer. You must be a guest at Dunton to use its amenities, but there are packages where you can buy lunch and soak during the day, or buy dinner and soak during the evening. Dunton is a one-of-a-kind experience, and often the whole facility is rented for weddings or events, so make sure you call ahead for a reservation. 970-882-4800 n
Continually Flowing Natural Hot Springs, Vapor Cave, Outdoor Pool & Private Lorelei As featured in the Smithsonian, NY Times, Travel & Leisure, Forbes, Money, Fodor’s & many other publications.
(970) 325.4347 • 625 5th St., Ouray wiesbadenhotsprings.com SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Calendar
Silverton
Kathryn Burke
of Events
May 4 Train’s First Day The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad starts its summer season, originating in Durango and traveling to Silverton and back, May 4. The train operates daily through October 26. May 19 Bar D Dinner The dinner is the annual fundraiser for the chamber of commerce and includes a presentation for its Citizen of the Year, held at the Kendall Mountain Community Center. May 25 Iron Horse Bicycle Race Cyclists ride from Durango to Silverton in this classic race, which originally started as a challenge to beat the narrow gauge railroad train or “iron horse.” June 8–10 Death Ride—Ride for Life Tour Starting and ending in Silverton and traversing the entire San Juan Skyway, this extraordinary cycling tour travels 236 miles up and down thousands of feet of elevation.
Kathryn Burke
Silverton is the best-kept secret in the San Juans. The tiny, historic
town only has about 400 residents, and they like it that way—they have miles and miles of ruggedly beautiful mountains as their private playground, with great jeeping, hiking, biking, trail running, mountaineering and river running in their own backyard. There are beautiful Victorian buildings to explore, including the notorious Blair Street establishments, mining tours and gold-panning, music, and theatre. Silverton is also home to the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, where visitors arriving on the first train each summer are treated to locals dressed in Victorian-era costumes and the old-time sounds of a brass band. n
June 15 Taste of Silverton and Block Party Street Dance Silverton’s Blair Street is home to this annual celebration of food and fun. June 29–30 Silverton 6/12/24 Hour Mountain Runs Runners do laps on the 1-mile trail around the Kendall Mountain Recreation Area, for either six, twelve or twenty-four hours. July 4 Fourth of July Celebration and Fireworks Silverton’s festivities on the Fourth of July feature a fireworks display by the fire department, a parade, a Blue Ribbon Fun Run/Walk, a wild water fight on main street, a ducky derby in the afternoon, a theatre group matinee production at the Grand Imperial, the International Rhubarb Festival & Silverton Brass Band Concert in Memorial Park and an old-fashioned picnic at the American Legion Hall. July 12–14 Hardrock 100 Endurance Run Perhaps the hardest 100-mile race ever, the Hardrock 100 starts and finishes in Silverton and traverses the surrounding mountains.
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
July 20 Kendall Mountain Run & K2 Double Runners race up and down the steep trail on Kendall Mountain. July 20 Silverton Barbershop Music Festival Celebrate the quaint sound of barbershop music at the Silverton school gym. August 9–11 Hardrockers Holidays The event celebrates the town’s mining history, with drilling contests and a tug-of-war, at the Kendall Mountain Recreation Area. August 16–18 Great Western Rocky Mountain Brass Band Festival Delight in these special, oldfashioned concerts held at the Kendall Mountain Recreation Area. August 15–18 Railfest Celebrate the special narrow gauge railroad with events in Durango and Silverton. August 24 Silverton Alpine Marathon & 50K A unique, high-alpine course marks these running races, which start and finish at Memorial Park. August 27 1-2-3-6 Day & 1,000 Mile Challenge Mountain endurance runners race for twenty-four hours, forty-eight hours, seventy-two hours, six days or 1,000 miles, starting at the Kendall Mountain Recreation Area. September 7–8 Silverton Quilt Show and Sale Check out the local fabric artistry at the Silverton school gym. Contact the Silverton Chamber of Commerce, 970-387-5654 October 5 Bordello Ball The costume ball starts at 7 p.m. at the Grand Imperial Hotel, but is preceded by A Theatre Group’s Crawl to the Ball from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. at various restaurants. October 26 The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad makes its last Silverton excursion of the summer/ fall season.
Silverton Is a Hub For Long-Distance Runners
Going the Distance Coury says the terrain here is unique. “Running is especially alluring around Silverton because of the setting of the San Juan Mountains. The mountains are big, high, wild, and epic. The trails and roads are also steep and technical, making them very challenging. You just can’t go wrong running up and down mountains in a beautiful setting like that around Silverton.”
Perhaps the best known of the races here is the Hardrock 100, a “I love the freedom For most of us, running hundred-mile ultradistances is an insane marathon that starts and and simplicity running such proposition, no matter how finishes in Silverton, and beautiful or distracting the crosses the high alpine brings. With just mountain scenery might be. basins of the San Juan my feet, some shorts But running is an addiction, Mountains, climbing and the cool summers in a total of 33,992 feet. and a water bottle, I the San Juan range are the Racers travel through can explore the land perfect place to feed the remote wilderness and habit. It is not uncommon to above 12,000 feet in intimately on my own pass someone on a remote elevation more than terms.” stretch of trail or a jeep road a dozen times, and high up in the mountains, the endurance race is and notice that they are not the most challenging hiking, biking or riding in centerpiece of the a car—they are running. Coury says that it’s hundred-mile race circuit in the Rocky a lighter way to travel in the mountains. “I’ve Mountains. But the blistering, grueling always enjoyed moving my body, whether it be Hardrock is not the only long-distance event hiking or backpacking, and would always push in Silverton. The town also hosts the Silverton myself on trips when I was young. Moving more 6/12/24, where racers complete as many onemile laps as possible within either six, twelve or twenty-four hours. There is the Kendall Mountain Run, a steep 12-plus mile course up and down the mountain, as well as the Silverton Alpine Marathon & 50k, where racers traverse an alpine loop around Gladstone Peak. The Silverton 1,000/6 Day is a new challenge where racers can really dig their heels in; 2013 will mark the event’s fourth year, and although racers have amassed several hundred miles and several of the six days in their quest, none have yet finished. Why are there so many long-distance races in Silverton? Race organizer and ultra-runner Jamil
Jamil Coury
Ray Dileo
L
ots of people like running. But the number of people who like running for 50 miles or 100 miles, at high elevation, on mountain trails, is significantly smaller—it’s a very elite cadre of runners. And during the summer, they all flock to Silverton.
toward running on trails made sense to me as I could lighten my load of supplies needed to cover long distances and I could see a lot more in one day. I love the freedom and simplicity running brings. With just my feet, some shorts and a water bottle, I can explore the land intimately on my own terms.” Coury and his cohorts in the world of endurance running are a small community of friends who support each other and push each other to do their best at the events. He says he often sees the same faces at the races, the other distance-running addicts, and appreciates the camaraderie that comes from their passion for the sport. “We are all brought together by the common bond of running long distances and feel a shared sense of suffering and perseverance that is unique from other sports. We are often reduced to just surviving, putting one foot in front of the other all day and night, and through that we are all supporting each other out there to get to the finish line.” n
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Fresh is
Best
Regional Farmers’ Markets Offer Locally Grown Goods
H
ave you ever picked up a piece of produce at a grocery store and wondered where it came from, or how it was grown, or if it was really organic? When you shop at a farmers’ market, you don’t need to wonder—you can ask the person who grew it. That’s part of the beauty of farmers’ markets, the interaction between the person who eats the food and the person who cultivated it. Farmers Markets have been blossoming everywhere, because of the emerging consumer trend toward locally grown food. The growers you will meet along the San Juan Skyway, however, are a special breed: they have honed their practice to account for the high altitude, the short growing season, and the fickle weather inherent in the Rocky Mountains. Their triumph over these challenging conditions is part of the celebratory atmosphere at the farmers’ markets. Imagine all the work that goes into the process, caring for the fields, planting the seeds, watering, weeding, protecting the plants from the cold or the harsh sun, and finally harvesting. No wonder the markets have such a jubilant vibe—and you can share in the experience. Most of the events have music, entertainment, and arts and crafts vendors; stroll through, find something special and make some new friends at one of these fun local markets.
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
Cortez Farmers’ Market
From June 1 through October (sometimes into November), at 109 West Main St., corner of Main and Elm St., every Saturday at 7:30-11 a.m. or until everyone sells out. Vendor information: All produce must be grown in Montezuma or Dolores Counties and be sold by the producer (no resale). Fee is $75/vendor for the season. Contact Montezuma CSU Cooperative Extension Service, 565-3123. www.cortezfarmmarket.com.
Dolores Farmers’ Market
From June to October every Wednesday, 4–6 p.m. in Flanders Park at 4th and Railroad Streets. Vendor information: No fees. No rules. Just show up. Contact Ronda Lancaster for information at 970-882-7720.
Durango Farmers’ Market
From May through October, at First National Bank parking lot at 8th St., Saturdays 8 a.m.– noon. Vendor information: Produce must be grown in a five-county area and sold by the producer. Canopy, sign and Durango business license required. Fees are $280/season or $20/week. Newcomers get an incubator booth. Contact Peg Redford, 375-6401 or www.durangofarmersmarket.org.
Mancos Farmers’ Market
June 26 to Sept. 18, at Boyle Park, every Thursday night from 4:30–6:30 p.m. Featuring live music. Vendor information: Produce grown in La Plata, Dolores and Montezuma Counties. Crafts must be made by seller. Fees for a 10x10 space are $25/season. Contact Cari Baike at 970-759-2540 or www. mancoscolorado.com.
Mountain Village Farmers’ and Artisans’ Market
June 20 to August 22 on Wednesdays, and July 3, September 1 and 13, from 12:30–6 p.m. at Heritage Plaza. Featuring entertainment during (and live music concerts that follow) the market. Vendor information: Produce must be Colorado-grown and crafts must be produced in Colorado. Booth rental fees for 10x10 space are $75/season. Requires sales tax. Contact Katie Tyler at 970-369-8248 or ktyler@mtnvillage.org.
Ridgway Farmers’ Market
June 7 to October 18, every Friday from 11 a.m.–4 p.m. at Hartwell Park in downtown Ridgway. Featuring live music, free samples and a playground for kids. Vendor information: Items must be grown, collected or manufactured by seller in Colorado. Fees for 12x12 space are $225 per season. Requires sales tax. Contact Marietta Johnson at marketmanager@farmersmarketridgway.com or visit www.farmersmarketridgway.com.
Telluride Farmers’ Market
June 7 to October 11, every Friday from 11 a.m.-4 p.m. S. Oak St. and gondola plaza. Featuring live music. Vendor information: Organic products are verified, vendors must reside within 100-mile radius of Telluride. Requires canopy and sales tax. Sliding scale fee based on sales starting at $250. Contact Ellie Greene at telluridefarmersmarket@gmail.com or visit www. thetelluridefarmersmarket.com SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Skyway The San Juan
T
he San Juan Skyway is the ultimate road trip. Along its breathtaking 236-mile loop
are vibrant alpine communities, historic landmarks, Mesa Verde National Park, the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, wild rivers, pristine waterfalls and lakes, high-elevation passes and the gorgeous, jagged San Juan Mountain Range for which it is named.
U.S. Highway 160
Starting in Durango, Colorado, the largest city on San Juan Skyway, the byway follows U.S. Highway 160 (US 160) west through the town of Mancos to Cortez passing the entrance to Mesa Verde National Park.
State Highway 145
At Cortez, the byway turns north following State Highway 145 (SH 145) through the town of Dolores and follows the Dolores River into the San Juan National Forest. The byway passes through the small town of Rico, county seat of Dolores County prior to 1941; the old courthouse still remains. From Rico, the byway crosses 10,222 ft (3116 m) Lizard Head Pass and enters the Uncompahgre National Forest. Lizard Head Pass provides views of the 14,159foot (4,316 m) El Diente Peak, the 14,246-foot (4,342 m) Mount Wilson, the 14,017-foot (4,272 m) Wilson Peak and the pass’s namesake, the 13,113-foot (3,997 m) Lizard Head Peak. The byway descends near the little town of Ophir past the location of the famous Ophir Loop of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad. A spur road heads off to the old mining town turned ski resort of Telluride. The byway
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follows the San Miguel River down to the little town of Placerville.
State Highway 62
The byway turns east at Placerville onto SH 62 and follows it over Dallas Divide. There are many excellent views of the San Juan Mountains, especially of the mountains around the 14,150-foot (4,310 m) Mount Sneffels. From top of the divide the byway descends into the town of Ridgway. The entire route of the byway from Durango to Ridgway roughly follows the route of the Rio Grande Southern Railroad.
U.S. Highway 550
From Ridgway, the byway turns south onto US 550 following the Uncompahgre River into the Victorian mining town of Ouray. From Ouray south back to Durango, the highway is referred to as the Million Dollar Highway, not for its priceless beauty but for the extreme costs of its initial construction. The first 7.0 miles (11.3 km) south of Ouray, the byway follows through the Uncompahgre Gorge. Just past the only tunnel on the route, just south of Ouray, the road crosses over Bear Creek Falls
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
on a bridge at the location of an impassable toll booth on the original road. The Alpine Loop National Back Country Byway, a four-wheeldrive jeep road takes off in the gorge south of Bear Creek Falls. Before leaving the gorge, the byway passes through a snow shed under the Riverside Slide avalanche zone. A monument stands near here honoring those who have lost their lives in the avalanche, including several snowplow operators. At this point the byway enters Ironton Park, a nice flat valley in contrast to the gorge. The road ascends several switchbacks, or S-curves, past the Idarado mining operation to the 11,018-foot (3,358 m) summit of Red Mountain Pass, providing views of Red Mountain (Colorado) and several ghost towns. Back into the San Juan National Forest, the highway descends through the Chattanooga Valley to Silverton. From Silverton, the byway passes over the 10,910-foot (3,330 m) Molas Pass and the 10,640-foot (3,240 m) Coal Bank Pass descending past the ski resort of Durango Mountain. From Hermosa, the road parallels the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad before returning to Durango. n
Kane Scheidegger
Sa n
145
Mi
gu e
lR ive
Uncompahgre National Forest
r
Unaweep/Tabeguache Scenic and Historic Byway
Ridgway g ah mp r co ive Un R
Dallas Divide 8,970 ft.
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Uncompahgre National Forest
Ouray Hot Springs
re
141
Placerville
Telluride
145
CO
8 Miles
Groundhog Reservoir
16
iver es R r o l o W. D
San Juan National Forest
r Rive res Dolo
r
Cortez
Dolores Mancos S.P.
184
Hesperus Mountain 13,232 ft.
550
Pl Colorado Welcome Center
ns Rui
Mesa Verde National Park
Rd. Ute Mountain Indian Reservation
a Anim
San Juan Skyway
Mancos
160
Coal Bank Pass 10,640 ft.
n Ma
s co
Dominguez and Escalante Expedition Monument
er s Riv
160
Silverton
Sunlight Peak 14,059 ft.
Electra Lake
at
Anasazi Heritage Center
Molas Pass 10,899 ft.
145
McPhee Reservoir
Trail of the 491 Ancients
Durango Mountain Resort
Christ of the Mines Shrine
Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad
.
Riv e
Lizard Head Pass 10,222 ft.
Alpine Loop
R
res
Rico
San Juan National Forest
La
Do lo
Telluride Ski Area Red Mountain Pass 10,899 ft.
Mount Wilson 14,246 ft.
a
0
Uncompahgre National Forest
Ouray
Hot Springs
Lemon Reservoir
Durango
id Flor
Vallecito Reservoir
iver aR
160 s ino s Piver o L R
r ve Ri
550 Southern Ute Indian Reservation
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Rebirth of the Growler
Craft beer Being Brewed All Along the San Juan Skyway
T
he growler is making a comeback, thanks to the ballooning craft beer industry. Today’s growler is typically an amber-colored glass jug that contains a half-gallon of beer that was created in a small, artisan brewery. Around southern Colorado, if you want to be the popular person at the picnic or potluck, just show up wielding a growler full of great beer—it’s a sure way to make a few friends. The growler was around long before craft brewing emerged on the Southwest scene. In the late nineteenth century, when beer was still a carry-out commodity you could bring home fresh from the pub, beer drinkers would tote home a galvanized pail. The term “growler” comes from the hissing sound that would emerge from the lid of the pail as the CO2 escaped when the brew sloshed around. Today’s lids are decidedly more advanced—most growlers have either a screw-on cap or a fancy, hinged porcelain gasket cap. A properly sealed unit holds in the carbonation so that you can store your 64 ounces of beer and enjoy it at your leisure; this modern version of the growler was introduced in 1989. Around the San Juan Skyway, which sports no fewer than a dozen small, craft breweries, the growler is ubiquitous. But you don’t need to take it with you—you can also enjoy one of your fermented favorites on-site at most of the breweries. Here is a sampling of the local breweries:
Carver Brewing Company
1022 Main Avenue Durango, CO 81301 (970) 259-2545 Claim to Fame: Old Oak Amber, smooth malt with Cascade hops aged on oak chips
Colorado Boy Pub & Brewery
602 Clinton Street Ridgway, CO 81432 (970) 626-5333 Claim to Fame: Fully wind- and solar-powered brewery, offers immersion classes in brewing
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
Dolores River Brewery
100 S 4th Street Dolores, CO 81323 (970) 882-4677 Claim to Fame: The Mono Brau is a Vienna lager brewed with Bavarian malts and fermented with three different yeast strains
Durango Brewing Company
3000 Main Avenue Durango, CO 81301 (970) 247-3396 Claim to Fame: Durango Wheat Beer, or D-Wheat, an American-style wheat with domestic barley and wheat malts, gold-colored with a crisp flavor
J. Fargo’s Family Dining & Micro Brewery
1209 E Main Street Cortez, CO 81321 (970) 564-0242 Claim to Fame: Growlers crafted in Germany, with porcelain flip-tops, and your first fill is FREE
Main Street Brewery and Restaurant
21 E Main Street Cortez, CO 81321 (970) 564-9112 Claim to Fame: Maibock is a German-style maibock with a sweet flavor and lightly toasted Munich malts balanced with hops
Ouray Brewery
607 Main Street Ouray, CO 81427 (970) 325-7388 Claim to Fame: Camp Bird Blonde is a light, crisp pilsner balancing dryness and a slightly sweet malty character
Ourayle House Brewery/ The Mr. Grumpy Pants Brewing Company
215 7th Avenue Ouray, CO 81427 (970) 903-1824 Claim to Fame: The beers change constantly/seasonally, and this is truly a unique, dive-bar type of stop on a craft beer tour—you will likely meet Mr. Grumpy Pants in person
Ska Brewing Company
225 Girard Street Durango, CO 81303 (970) 247-5792 Claim to Fame: True Blonde is Ska’s most popular beer, but the brewery has won brewers awards for its Modus Hoperandi, Special ESB and Pinstripe Red Ale
Smugglers Brew Pub
225 S Pine Street Telluride, CO 81435 (970) 728-0919 Claim to Fame: Smuggler’s Strong Scottish Ale is a malty beer made from nine different grains, including beechwoodsmoked barley
Steamworks Brewing Company
801 E 2nd Avenue Durango, CO 81301 (970) 259-9200 Claim to Fame: Steamworks is popular locally for its lager beers, but has won awards for its Backside Stout and Colorado Kölsch
Telluride Brewing Company
156 DEF Society Drive Telluride, CO 81435 (970) 728-5094 Claim to Fame: Telluride Brewing won the prestigious World Cup gold medal for its Face Down Brown Ale, a hybrid American-English style brown with toffee, chocolate and nut flavors; also popular is the Bridal Veil Rye Pale Ale n SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Calendar
Durango
of Events
May 4 Spring Salutations Durango sends off its first train to Silverton as the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad starts its summer schedule of round-trip rides. May 19 Taste of Durango Durango’s Main Avenue hosts samples from local restaurants, plus music and fun. May 24–28 Southern Ute Bear Dance A pow wow at the Sky Ute Tribal Grounds in Ignacio. www. skyutecasino.com, 970-799-3149 May 24–27 Iron Horse Bicycle Classic Cyclists put their pedals against the metal, racing the train to Silverton in this annual event, which includes a criterion in Durango. www.ironhorsebicycleclassic.com June 7–9 Animas River Days Celebrate the Animas River with fun events, including a parade, dog contest, river races, and more. www. animasriverdays.org, 303-947-1705
The authentic Western town of Durango is the San Juan Skyway’s version of a metropolis—there are even a few traffic
lights on its main corridor—and the town is the major population center of Southwestern Colorado, so there are plenty of businesses and nightlife in the downtown area. But the town is also a hub for outdoor recreation, with the Animas River, local lakes, and lots of great hiking, biking and mountaineering. There are all kinds of unique experiences you can have in Durango, from the interactive Durango Discovery Museum, to a trip on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, a day of zip-lining or a paintball fight, to an oldfashioned shootout at the quick draw competition each year. Durango is the perfect mix of Old West and New West culture. n
June 8–15 Ride the Rockies The weeklong classic cycling tour pedals through Durango. June 15 Durango Motor Expo Visit downtown Durango and check out the classic and vintage automobiles. Registration is limited to 200 cars. 970-247-8761 June 21–22 Fun in the Sun Arts & Crafts Fair Stroll through the vendors booths and enjoy local and regional art. fairandphoto@frontier.net July 4 Independence Day in Durango Downtown Durango features “Salute to America” events, the Duango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad hosts its Independence Day Express, and there are fireworks on display over Vallecito Lake. July 7–28 Music in the Mountains The Classical Music Festival & Conservancy in Durango hosts concerts and educational programs. www.musicinthemountains.com
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
June 27–August 31 They’re Playing Our Song A Neil Simon musical is performed every Thursday and Saturday at the Durango Performing Arts Center. July 20–28 Fiesta Days Celebrate Durango’s Spanish history and cowboy heritage with rodeos, a parade, a carnival, and other activities. August 15–18 Railfest For train buffs and everyone who loves trains, don’t miss the World Fast Draw Competition/Celebrity Shoot Out at the train depot on Saturday and Sunday at 9 a.m. during Railfest. August 24 Annual San Juan Brew Fest Durango is unofficially known as the “City of Brewery Love” and the “Napa Valley of Beer” and you can find out why with a food and beer tasting on Main Avenue. 970-247-9444 August 29–September 2 Four Corners Bike Rally/Ignacio Bike Week Experience the Four Corners, some of the best motorcycle riding in the world. www.fourcornersbikerally.com September 7–8 The Whole Expo The Holistic Health and Ecological Conference & Exposition for Your Whole Life, conducts its 18th annual event in Durango and at La Plata County Fairgrounds. September 14–15 Oktoberfest Music and food on Main Ave. between 9th and 10th avenues. September 21–22 Durango Autumn Arts Festival A juried arts and crafts festival on 2nd Ave between 6th and 9th Sts. Free to the public. 970-946-9362 October 10–13 Durango Heritage Celebration Enjoy period reenactments, 1880s heritage train ride, a Promenade on the Boulevard in period fashions, a Grand Victorian Ball, and more. October12–13 Durango Double Marathon Runners from the region compete in the double marathon, the halfmarathon, and/or a trail run.
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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The Need for
Speed
Meet Kayaking’s Most Frenzied Race:
R
ivers come in all speeds and sizes, and so do river excursions—from long, lazy days of floating and camping, to full-octane rides through whitewater. But perhaps nothing beats the high-speed thrill of the boatercross race held each summer at the Animas River Days, where four kayakers hit the course at the same time, jockeying for position in the churning water. “It’s full-contact boating … it’s like a sprint. Your heart rate is high, you’re racing to the finish line, but you also have to deal with the other boaters and there’s a lot of strategy with what line you take through the rapids,” says Ryan Christianson, the event coordinator for boatercross. It would seem that for some elite kayakers, simply staying upright and barreling through rapids is not enough of a challenge—they need the rush of being elbow to elbow with three other boaters angling for the fastest line
30
Boatercross
through the whitewater to the finish. It is one of the highlights for spectators at the Animas River Days, says Christianson. “It’s a pretty short and intense race, with a lot of action and a lot of contact. It’s really entertaining to watch.” Animas River Days is not just Durango’s premier whitewater competition for serious boaters, it is a huge annual community celebration with all sorts of fun events. Animas River Days hosts races, including boatercross, the kayak slalom race, the up-down paddleboard race, a downriver race and a rodeo for boaters to play and show off their moves. There is also a river parade (and after-party) where entrants are in costume, a yellow ducky race, dog contests, a river clean-up, a beer garden, and fun activities for kids. “The festival is a longstanding tradition. It’s a good time for all boaters to come together and celebrate the river.”
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
The Animas River is the perfect place to get your feet wet when it comes to river culture— most of the stretches in Durango are class 2 or class 3, with the Smelter rapids being the biggest and most exciting whitewater, but it’s still accessible for beginners. And the Animas River Trail along the river makes for easy access, even if you just want to enjoy the river as you walk or bike next to it. For Christianson, he likes the excitement of the whitewater just as much as the relaxation of floating on a raft with friends and family. “Those are the two extremes, and everything in between—cooling off after work, or going on a weeklong river trip vacation. But the best thing about the river is the community of people, from all different backgrounds. There’s a lot of camaraderie and no snobbery, everybody’s really friendly and welcoming. It’s a great culture.” n
“The Animas River is the perfect place to get your feet wet when it comes to river culture.”
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Train From
Tree Top to
T
raveling is all about getting a new perspective, and there is no better perspective than from high above— imagine zip-lining through a private oasis atop 180 acres of towering, old-growth Ponderosa pine trees in the San Juan Forest and crossing above the roaring waters of the Animas River. Zip-lining is all the rage around the region, with a couple of outfitters in Durango and one starting up in Silverton. But the ziplining tours at Soaring Tree Top Adventures are in a “class” of their own— literally, the only way to get to the site is by historic tourist train, so adventurers start out their day in private, first class cars on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. Passengers ride through the incredibly scenic Animas River Canyon—the same stretch filmed in Butch Cassidy & The Sundance Kid. They disembark at the site of the old Tall Timber Resort, a remote and pristine area that was home to a five-star resort and family business for four decades. Denny Beggrow had to haul in materials by train and helicopter to build the secluded resort, which was a favorite getaway for families and celebrities for many years—they still have the old-fashioned soda fountain that once served Marilyn Monroe. But vacation trends changed, and today’s travelers prefer thrilling eco-adventures over two-week escapes. So in 2004 Denny and his son Johnroy set up what was the country’s first—and is still the longest—zip-line operation. “They decided to try something new. It was such a hit, we couldn’t keep our guests off the course,” says Johnroy’s wife, Dionne Beggrow. “We started thinking about expanding the adventure, and taking day guests, too. So, in 2005, we opened the course to the public.”
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
Soaring Tree Top Adventures Access Zip Line by Railroad
“It feels like you’re flying, it’s weightless and it’s so smooth. It’s a very free feeling.”
Johnroy built his first zip line between trees as a daring child, but the grownup version is magnificent: 27 platforms, with a patented system that hugs the trees without damage to the old-growth Ponderosa pines and which doesn’t require hand brakes. The tension and release in the system brings people silently and gently to each platform, and there are guides that send and receive each passenger. The passengers range from age 4 to 91—one of those rare activities that is fun for grandparents, kids, the whole family. “There is always one guest who is a little reticent or nervous, but as soon as they take that leap of faith off the first platform, they are so excited. It’s not scary at all,” says Beggrow. Which isn’t to say that it’s not thrilling—there is nothing quite like soaring over the aspen groves and pine forest, whizzing above the river, floating over the mountains and wildlife. “It feels like you’re flying, it’s weightless and it’s so smooth,” says Beggrow. “It’s a very free feeling.” The five-star resort has become a five-star adventure outfitter—guests get a gourmet, four-course lunch and snack along with the ride on the private railcar and the full day of soaring. And the zip line isn’t the only tree-hugger on site; the staff use electric carts to get around, lunch is served on real plates instead of disposable ones, and eco-rangers are hired to talk to guests about the wildlife and ecology. “We are our own trash, water and fire department,” laughs Beggrow. “Sustainability—we practice those things every day. We were doing it before it was in vogue.” One thing that has never gone out of style with the Beggrows is treating people to the experience of a lifetime. “People say it’s the best day of their lives,” says Beggrow. “That’s what we’re striving for.”
Going ‘Full Blast’
T
here are other ways to get your adrenaline fix in Durango, too. What do paintball, slacklining, and zip-lining all have in common? The rush, the feeling of your pulse getting faster as you crouch behind a bush waiting to fire a paint pellet at your opponent (or for your opponent to plaster you in paint), or as you balance all of your weight on the taut webbing of a slackline, or as you are suspended high above the ground in a harness zipping across a canopy of pine and aspen trees. Durango’s Full Blast outfitter offers all three types of group adventure packages—take your pick and have fun. n
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Step Back in Time Historic Opera Houses and Hotels along the San Juan Skyway
B
ricks in the West tell a story, and it’s usually one of crystal chandeliers, floorlength dresses, and cowboys. Exploring the century-old buildings in towns along the Skyway route in Colorado is like traveling back in time. The Grand Imperial Hotel in Silverton is a reminder of how a booming mining town first sought opulence in the 1800s. That same bygone sense of grandeur is obvious when you enter the Strater Hotel in Durango—modern life stops at the door, and another era is reincarnated. And the rough-and-tumble Old West is still alive and well, nestled on a side street in Ridgway: the Sherbino Theater is where the local cowboys used to—and still can—be found sipping on a whiskey. Only forty-six of Colorado’s old opera houses exist today, although there used to be three times that number around the late 1800s, when opera houses were the center of entertainment and civic events. Three of the remaining opera houses that have been renovated to keep their historic character, and which are still operating
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commercially, can be found along the San Juan Skyway. Light blue paint could once be seen flaking off the Wright Opera House in Ouray, but today the building is beautifully restored and home to all kinds of events. The Sheridan Opera House in Telluride, once a movie house for an emerging silent film industry and a live performance venue, continues to be center stage for music stars, movie premieres and local theatre. The Mancos Opera House was built in 1910 to replace an older theater that burned down in 1907, and remains one of the area’s largest public buildings today. Inside all these buildings, the ghost of a past age still resides and gives them a special, historic allure. Driving down the main street of Silverton, old brick buildings line the way, towered over by gorgeous, sheer mountains. In the heart of all this is the Grand Imperial Hotel. It’s impossible to miss: the white trim and bold red exterior fit in with the general look around
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
town, but it’s the biggest and most prominent building, easily towering over the rest of Silverton. Mr. C.S. Thomson, who saw the need for a luxurious hotel in the heart of town during its mining boom, built the Grand Imperial in 1882. It was once called “the finest hotel in the state, outside of Denver.” Today, people can still stay in the extravagant, Victorian-style rooms and eat on the main level at Gumpy’s, the cozy restaurant featuring hearty American food. Durango is the San Juan Skyway’s version of a sprawling urban area—it has a lively business district and the population consists of more than just a few thousand people. The Strater Hotel, located in the historic downtown main street, hints at the fact that even a century ago Durango was a busy place. Henry Strater, who envisioned the mining camp of Durango turning into a bustling city, built the hotel in 1887. It has been constantly renovated and maintained since it was built, leaving it in a beautiful state today. The
Clockwise from top: Mancos Opera House, Sheridan Opera House, Strater Hotel, Grand Imperial, Wright Opera House, Sherbino Theater (center)
hotel provides a time capsule of sorts, featuring antique telephones that still operate, saloon gunfights, carriage rides, and lavish, Victorian rooms in which to spend the night. The Wright brothers are famous even in the small post-mining town of Ouray. Nestled in a box canyon surrounded by massive mountains, the Wright Opera House is a two-story brick building that was deemed “a wonder of the time.” The Wright Brothers built it in 1881 to serve as a place that would enlighten the community through cultural and educational programs. The grand building itself still awes those who enter with its crystal chandelier and incredibly ornate ceilings. It serves the same function it did more than a century ago, as a civic center for enlightening the community, with music, plays and readings, and movies. Telluride is located in a beautiful valley with a panoramic view of gorgeous mountains and
local population of cowboys and their families. Almost a century later, its paint had peeled off the sides and the wood had rotted and it was barely in use. But in 2011, the community collectively recognized the value and character of the old theater and pitched in to refurbish it. Today, its sprawling dance floor hosts a variety of public and private events, including live music.
waterfalls; what once used to be a profitable mining town has now become famous for its ski mountain and scenic beauty. The Sheridan Opera House, built in 1913, has witnessed all the changes Telluride has undergone. As the mining town attracted more aristocrats and wealthy mine owners, J. A. Segerberg, the manager of the New Sheridan Hotel, saw the need for creating a cultural hub for such people, providing moving pictures and upperclass events. The Sheridan Opera House still hosts the town’s main events, albeit for the more general population, with film screenings, musical acts and theatrical performances. The Sherbino Theater is almost hidden in the old farming town of Ridgway, off the main street, and set back off the sidewalk, its classic façade blends in with the other Old West-styled architecture. But the Sherbino is not just historic looking—Louis Sherbino built the theater in 1915 as a place to dance and host shows for the
It was March 1, 1910, when A.J. James and George Woods completed construction of the Mancos Opera House, after an older opera house in the town burned down in 1907. The two-story, red brick building looks as if it is three stories high from the front, because the spacious upper theater level has balcony seating and an extra set of windows on its south and west sides. The building, still one of the biggest in the small town, was stabilized in 2004 and today hosts performances, concerts and celebrations on its second level, and the Mancos VFW (Veterans of Foreign Wars) group occupies the ground floor. n
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Mancos
Calendar
It is easy to see why the prolific Western author Louis L’Amour chose the Mancos area as his home and as the setting for his books. The Mancos Valley continues a 140-year
tradition as the center of ranching at the edge of the San Juan Mountains and Mesa Verde National Park. Mancos is the bridge between the culture of the Old West and the New West, with cattle drives down Main Street and modern art galleries along Grand Avenue, an old-fashioned distillery and a coffee house, as well as easy access to all the hiking, biking, fishing, and hunting that makes people fall in love with the West. n
of Events
May 25–June 2 Indian Arts & Culture Festival The communities of Cortez, Dolores, Mancos, and Towaoc, and their partners at Mesa Verde National Park celebrate the 13th Annual Mesa Verde Country Indian Arts & Culture Festival. Visitors are invited to “Celebrate Our Song” and the many cultural and archaeological gems of our area are showcased. This year’s festival is part of the Grand Opening of the new Mesa Verde Visitor and Research Center, located at the entrance to the national park.
Mancos Valley Chamber of Commerce,970-533-7434.
June 22–23 Mancos Open Studio Tour Check out some of the great, local artwork. Call Shared Vision Publishing for details, 970-403-1590
August 31–September 2 Sugar Pine Ranch Rally Don’t miss the Sugar Pine Ranch Rally, a popular motorcycle rally on Labor Day Weekend. For more information visit www.sugarpineranchrally.com
June 28, July 26, August 30 and September 27 Grand Summer Nights The event features a gallery walk and carriage rides through historic Mancos on the last Friday of each month. Contact Mancos Valley Chamber of Commerce, 970-533-7434 July 4 Mancos Fireworks Catch the pyrotechnics at dusk at Boyle Park. For details, contact
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
July 26–28 Mancos Days Mancos Days features family fun, parades, softball, music and great food. Contact the town of Mancos, 970-533-7725 June 20–September 26 Mancos Farmers’ Market Music, food and fun every Thursday afternoon 4:30-6:30 in Boyle Park. Contact the town of Mancos, 970-533-7725
September 27–29 Mancos Valley-Mesa Verde Country Balloon & Arts Festival Watch hot air balloons take to the sky and enjoy art from all over the region. The balloons ascend en masse, are tethered for balloon rides and set aglow at night for viewing. The Arts Festival takes place on Saturday, Sept. 28. Call 970-560-0203 or the Mancos Valley Chamber of Commerce, 970-533-7434
The
Three Sisters Agriculture Traditions are Still Thriving
Y
ou might not think you know the Three Sisters, but thanks to a long agricultural tradition that started with the Native Americans, they can still be found all around the Mancos Valley and beyond. The Three Sisters were the main crops planted by the earliest inhabitants of the Southwest: corn, beans, and squash. The three crops were planted as companions, close together, because they are complementary. Corn, or maize, provides a natural structure similar to a pole on which the beans could climb. The beans provide nitrogen to the soil that the other plants can utilize. And the squash spreads along the ground, preventing the establishment of weeds, and acting as a natural mulch to keep moisture in the soil—the prickly hairs of the squash vine also deter pests. Beans have the amino acids that corn lacks, but that the human body needs to make proteins and niacin, so beans and maize together helped to balance the diets of these early people. This innovative garden design helped the Pueblo Indians cultivate crops in the dry, arid Southwest climate.
Today in Mancos Valley, the farming tradition continues. There is a much larger selection of produce and livestock “We’ve figured grown and raised, and today’s farmers out how to be are still battling the same challenges, coaxing dryland beans from the soil farmers here.” without irrigation and keeping crops alive at 7,000 feet of elevation during the shoulder seasons, before and after the peak of summer. Squash is just one of the twenty-two vegetables grown at Confluence Farm, a small operation in the shadow of Mesa Verde, where the Mancos River and Mud Creek flow together. “We’ve figured out how to be farmers here,” laughs Mary Vozar, co-owner of Confluence with partner Paul Bohmann. “We don’t even have three months of the season that are really warm, with no frost. But we have managed to have a spring and a fall/ winter CSA.”
Mary Vozar and Paul Bohmann
The term CSA stands for community-supported agriculture, a new trend where a network of people pledge their support to a farm, buying in and sharing its risks and rewards. Members subscribe by paying a fee and sometimes pitching in to work, then they receive shares of the harvest. It is a business model that is being adopted all over the country, as small farms make a comeback amid the burgeoning interest in locally grown food. CSA members at Confluence get treated to certified naturally grown food that ranges from sunflower micro-greens, to baby potatoes, Japanese turnips, carrots, kale and a variety of cooking greens and herbs. Confluence is just one of the farms that keeps the agricultural tradition alive here, in the wide-open swathes of land where rainbows often arc overhead. “For being such a small place, there are quite a few farmers in the Mancos Valley. It’s a great group of farmers and we all work together and try to help each other out. There’s a much higher demand now than there used to be, with the local food movement.” n SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Archaeology Dig Into
D
o you like Indiana Jones? Are you fascinated by history shows about ancient mysteries and civilizations? In a quiet little corner of the Southwest lies one of the most impressive archaeological areas in the world. The Mesa Verde region exemplifies an extremely important 38
All photos: Crow Canyon Archaeological Center
transformation in human history, from hunting and gathering to domesticated food production, known as the Neolithic Revolution—and the buildings and artifacts are beautifully preserved because of the arid climate. But you don’t have to view these antiquities from the window of your car or from behind the velvet
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
rope of a museum; you can actually participate in an archaeological dig, help unearth artifacts, and spend time in the lab analyzing them with experts, thanks to unique programs offered by the Crow Canyon Archaeological Center. This summer the Center continues its work on the Basketmaker Communities Project,
Dr. Mark Varien
and anyone can take part in the discovery, says Dr. Mark Varien, Crow Canyon’s Research and Education Chair. “It’s a really exciting, multi-year project. The site we are working on has dwellings called ‘pithouses’ and a great kiva, the only one that is known from that initial period of settlement in the seventh century. It is a structure 30 feet in diameter with a massive roof. This year we will be excavating the floor, which hasn’t been uncovered in 1,400 years, since the people who used it left.” The Pueblo Indian culture that inhabited the great kiva and the other structures in the Mesa Verde region have changed over the centuries, but Pueblo communities still exist today, with tribes scattered about the Southwest. Their exodus from these ancient sites is just one of the things that intrigue modern archaeologists. “They lived here for over 700 years,” says Varien, “but by the end of the A.D. 1200s, they completely depopulated the region. What we think is that it was a combination of factors. It had to do with repeated drought and colderthan-normal temperatures, but it was also the century when population peaked, so there were more people competing for fewer resources.” The fact that Pueblo Indian cultures still exist today, descendants of the people who lived in the Mesa Verde region more than a thousand years ago, makes researching these ruins even more interesting. Today’s Pueblo Indians still maintain their traditions, languages and religion, and help give context to the beautiful artifacts, pottery and architecture being excavated. So roll up your sleeves and dig in—you can help unearth history and be a part of the exciting discoveries made by experts at the Crow Canyon Archaeological Center. n SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Cortez
Calendar
of Events
May 8–12 Ute Mountain—Mesa Verde Birding Festival Spring migrants and early nesters attract birdwatchers from across the nation to the Birding Festival. Located in the Archaeological Center of America, many of the birding field trips visit spectacular archaeological areas such as Mesa Verde National Park and the Ute Tribal Park. Workshops, an art show, and a special dinner speaker round out the events for the festival weekend.
Cortez is the most ancient stop you’ll make on the San Juan Skyway tour—Montezuma County
has been settled since about A.D. 600 when approximately 100,000 Pueblo Indians made this area their home. Today you can explore the archaeology of the first settlers as well as the arts and culture that still bears their imprint. Cortez also has great networks of mountain biking trails, hiking trails and terrific fishing. The cowboy culture from more recent eras is still alive and well, and you can experience it firsthand at the Ute Mountain Roundup Rodeo, the 83rd annual event and a professionally sanctioned rodeo. The region also offers agritourism opportunities, where you can see dryland beans such as the unique old cultivar Anasazi bean or visit some of the lovely modern wineries in the McElmo Canyon and Montezuma Valley. n
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
May 11 12 Hours of Mesa Verde Bike Race Mountain bikers compete in an endurance race at Phil’s World in Cortez. 970-565-4926 May 17–19 AKC Dog Show Pooches compete for prizes at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. 970-565-1000 May 24–25, June 21–22, July 19–20, August 23–24 Stock Car Races Modified cars speed around the dirt track at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. 970-565-1000 May 25–June 2 Indian Arts & Culture Festival The communities of Cortez, Dolores, Mancos, and Towaoc, and their partners at Mesa Verde National Park celebrate the 13th Annual Mesa Verde Country Indian Arts & Culture Festival. Visitors are invited to “Celebrate Our Song” and the many cultural and archaeological gems of this area are showcased. This year’s festival is part of the Grand Opening of the new Mesa Verde Visitor and
Research Center, located at the entrance to the national park. June 6–8 83rd Annual Ute Mountain Roundup The Ute Mountain Roundup is a rodeo that started after World War I, and today is sanctioned by the Professional Rodeo Cowboys Association. The rodeo features all the classic roping, barrel racing, bronc busting, and bull riding events, and is accompanied by a county fair, held at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. June 9–10 Ride The Rockies This classic, week-long cycling tour makes a stop in Cortez. June 22–23 Four Casa Dog Show Pooches—Australian shepherds— compete for prizes at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. 970-565-1000 June 1, July 13, August 10, September 14 Barrel Racing NBHA, the National Barrel Horseracing Association, holds its races at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. 970-565-1000 July 4 Independence Day Catch the fireworks at the Parque de Vida in Cortez or at the Ute Mountain Casino in Towaoc. October 27 Horse Show Check out some of the regional equine beauties at the Mesa Verde Paint Horse Club Horse Show at the Montezuma County Fairgrounds. 970-565-1000
The Next Great
Ride Mountain Bikers Discover Phil’s
I
t used to be that if you were a serious mountain biker you went to Moab, Utah or Fruita, Colorado and you were in on a little secret. But nowadays, as mountain biking has increased in popularity, so too has the popularity of these mountain biking meccas. Cyclists looking for the next great trail have to keep looking. And what have they found? Small, local, unknown trail systems, like Phil’s World just outside of Cortez, sprouting up throughout southwest Colorado. With its dry weather patterns and high-desert terrain, southwest Colorado is the perfect place for incredible singletrack. And Cortez is in the heart of it all. The area boasts 240 sunny days a year and is located between the jagged Northern San Juan Mountains and the Arizona desert—a great juxtaposition of playful, high-desert, buffedout singletrack in the foreground with rugged, snow-capped mountains in the background. The trails are characterized by gradual climbs and sweeping downhills that repetitively corkscrew back and forth, and forth and back, to maximize all the fun each descent has to offer. The entire system is 28 miles and offers a vertical gain of about 1,100 feet, yet no single climb is longer than half a mile or ascends more than 200 feet. The 28 miles are divided
World
miles, add Lemon Head, Maze, and The Elbow to the beginning of your ride. Phil’s World truly has something for every level of rider. Sections like Lemon Head Trail and Stinky Spring allow beginner and intermediate riders long, gradual climbs and twisty descents so they can experience everything advanced mountain bikers do—except the fear. And the adrenalinedriven experts can get plenty of rocky, technical riding by adding sections like Ledges and the Vertebrae, which live up to their names.
into different sections that can be done as one big loop or ridden separately. The entire loop, termed the “Whole Enchilada,” is easy to navigate. Riders simply take a left at each intersection and include Ledge’s Loop; the trails are well marked with small wooden signs indicating the name of each segment. If fun is more important than miles, then link Coco Race to Bob’s Loop, head up Abajo, add Stinky Spring and hit the Rib Cage. No matter which segments you include in your ride, you’ve got to give the playful “whoop-de-doos” (that’s the technical biking term for steep, short rollers) of Rib Cage a whirl. It’s impossible not to giggle as you roll up one side of the “whoop” and down the other side of the “doo.” If you can’t get enough, look carefully at the bottom of Rib Cage for a right turn that will take you back up Abajo so you can do it again. For more
For the masochistic riders out there who fear Phil’s World might not offer enough climbing, bring a single-speed bike. The sing-song nature of the trails will get the single-speeder out of his seat and in a focused rhythm while ascending and in a melodic trance as he banks from turn to turn on the descent. And for those who want more than just a ride, and are looking for a race, check out the annual 12 Hours of Mesa Verde each year during May. Now that you know about Phil’s World, let the other riders pack the trails in Moab and Fruita and let’s go spin our wheels in Cortez. But, remember; we’re just keeping this secret little gem between friends—so we don’t have to start looking for the next one. n
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Dolores
Calendar
Dolores has a little bit of everything that makes a western town great: history, culture
and outdoor recreation. There is incredible fishing, boating, and waterskiing on McPhee Reservoir, the second largest body of water in the state, and other water sports on the local lakes and rivers. Hiking, camping and mountain biking abound in the surrounding San Juan National Forest. The Anasazi Heritage Center is a fun, interactive museum devoted to the history of the ancient cultures of Pueblo, Ute, and Navajo Native Americans, which has two twelfth-century pueblo ruins on site. The town of Dolores has an exact replica of an original train depot, a Rio Grande Southern Railroad Museum and a restored Galloping Goose car. And Escalante Days is the region’s celebration of its historic Dolores River Valleys, where the Dominguez-Escalante expedition camped in 1776 and mapped and logged the first record of the lands and people in what would become Colorado and Utah. n
of Events
May 25–June 2 Indian Arts & Culture Festival The communities of Cortez, Dolores, Mancos, and Towaoc, and their partners at Mesa Verde National Park celebrate the 13th Annual Mesa Verde Country Indian Arts & Culture Festival. Visitors are invited to “Celebrate Our Song” and the many cultural and archaeological gems of this area are showcased. This year’s festival is part of the Grand Opening of the new Mesa Verde Visitor and Research Center, located at the entrance to the national park. June 1 Dolores River Festival Great music outdoors, river events, free raft rides, river dog contest, and food and craft booths at the Joe Rowell Park, Dolores. 970-882-4780, www.doloresriverfestival.com. June 1 Community-Wide Yard Sale Dig through someone else’s treasures and find some for yourself. June 29 Fireworks over Ground Hog Lake and RV Park Catch the pyrotechnic display at dusk. July 4 Dolores Town Food & Fireworks Celebrate Independence Day in Dolores, 970-882-4018.
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
July 27 Chili Cookoff at Ground Hog Lake and RV Park Enter your best chili and sample the other entries at this culinary contest. August 9–10 Escalante Days Escalante Days features parades, booths for vendors, a Kiwanis Club duck race, the Rotary Club mountain bike race, chainsaw and arm wrestling competitions, live music, food, arts and crafts, Galloping Goose Days activities and more at Flanders Park in Dolores. Contact the Dolores Chamber, 970-882-4018 August 23–24 2013 Dolores Quilt Show Check out the amazing fabric artwork on Friday, August 23, from 9 a.m.–6 p.m. and Saturday, August 24, from 9 a.m.–4 p.m. at the Dolores Community Center More information at www.doloresmountainquilters.org. September 15 Harvest Celebration Celebrate fall with the Galloping Goose, vendors and more. Contact the Dolores Chamber at 970-882-4018. September 22 Harvest Fest Fall fun featuring Old Germany menu, beer, and more at Ground Hog Lake and RV Park.
McPhee
Escape to
& Boggy Draw
Barbara Grist
Barbara Grist
Boating or Biking, Pick Your Pleasure
T
ired of cruising around in your car? Would you rather be taking your boat or your mountain bike out for a spin? There are a couple of sweet spots for camping in the Dolores area, especially if you are looking to dip into the water or get some exercise.
about 500 feet above the water, with 76 sites and some hookups. There are flush toilets, grills, volleyball posts, horseshoe pits, and a ball field. McPhee also has a mountain bike route that follows paved and gravel roads and a marina for snacks, meals, and some bait and tackle.
If boating is your thing, check out McPhee Reservoir, the largest body of water in the San Juan National Forest and the second largest in the state. McPhee has 50 miles of shoreline with piñon trees, juniper and sagebrush and it is a great place to escape for a camping, boating or fishing adventure.
The Boggy Draw Area is a network of perfect mountain biking loops. And by perfect, I mean perfect—rolling, intermediate singletrack that is not too technical and is well-marked. You can camp in the area, but there are no restrooms or water on-site, so come prepared. The network consists of four beautiful loops through meadows with lots of shade from the tall Ponderosa pine trees, the Boggy Draw Loop, Bean Canyon Loop, Mavericks Loop, and Italian Canyon Loop, with a range of difficulties. The Boggy Draw Loop is the easiest and most flat of the rides, and the Bean Canyon the most advanced, but the best thing about the loop rides is that it’s pretty hard—but not impossible—to get lost. n
McPhee has a large parking lot next to its six-lane concrete boat ramp, as well as some courtesy docks. The reservoir has ample fishing and is stocked with warm- and cold-water species of fish. Next to the boat ramp is a hiking trail with great views overlooking the reservoir that leads to the tent sites at the McPhee Campground. The campground is on a mesa
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Calendar
Telluride
of Events
May 24–27 Mountainfilm in Telluride The festival celebrates the outdoors, featuring adventure and ecological films, symposiums and lectures. www.mountainfilm.org May 31–June 2 Telluride Balloon Festival Watch hot air balloons soar above the San Miguel Valley or stroll past them, tethered and aglow on main street during the evening. June 3–9 Wild West Fest Celebrate the culture of the West at this weeklong, family-oriented festival put on by the Sheridan Arts Foundation. 970-728-6363 June 7–9 Telluride Heritage Fest Listen to old cowboy stories, see Native American drummers and dancers perform, watch historic reenactments, pan for gold, and learn about mining at this celebration of Telluride’s history. 970-728-3344
Telluride is one of the most strikingly beautiful places you will ever see; it is also known as the
“Festival Capital of the Rockies” because of its vast array of cultural events each summer. Like many of these western towns, Telluride started out as a mining community but earned renown for its skiing and mountaineering. Today visitors can climb the acclaimed Via Ferrata route high above town or to the top of Bridal Veil Falls (the state’s tallest waterfall), see a Grammy-award winning musician in Town Park, catch a free ride up on the gondola and hike around or zip back to town on one of the downhill mountain biking courses, eat at one of the top-rated restaurants in the country, or even watch a world premiere of a new movie at one of the film festivals. There are galleries to stroll, classes to take, and rivers and trails to explore, and don’t miss the Telluride Historical Museum, which hosts unique exhibits, indoors and outdoors. n
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
July 8–14 Telluride Playwrights Festival The festival offers a laboratory setting for actors, playwrights, and directors to network and nurture new work. July 11–14 Telluride Yoga Festival Yoga instructors from all over the world convene in Telluride to offer workshops in all types of yoga, meditation, and kirtan. July 18–20 Ah Haa Art Auction This fun annual fundraiser for the local arts school features live entertainment and bidding and a silent auction. www.ahhaa.org August 2–4 Telluride Jazz Festival Catch some of the best live jazz entertainers of our time during the day at Town Park and at night in the local music venues.
June 20–23 40th Annual Bluegrass Festival One of the country’s most renowned bluegrass music events, Telluride Bluegrass Festival is held during the weekend of the summer solstice.
August 8–18 Telluride Chamber Music Festival Classical music concerts are held outdoors and in various small venues around town; this year is the festival’s 40th anniversary.
June 27–30 Telluride Wine Festival The festival features four days of fine wine, seminars, tastings, winemakers’ luncheons, and cooking demos. www. telluridewinefestival.org
August 15–18 Telluride Mushroom Festival Symposiums, classes, forays, and a parade all celebrate fungus in this fun weekend event.
June 29–July 5 Sheridan Arts Foundation’s 10th Telluride Plein Air Landscape artists from across the country come to paint the region’s vistas; plein air painting is done outdoors, and the art is exhibited and sold to benefit the Sheridan Arts Foundation. 970-728-6363 July 4 Telluride 4th of July Celebration Telluride’s Independence Day features a parade, a community-wide barbecue and games and activities for families in Town Park, and a grand fireworks display at nightfall. July 13–14 The Ride Festival Telluride’s community radio station, KOTO, hosts a two-day music concert in the Town Park, featuring David Byrne & St. Vincent, Big Head Todd & the Monsters, Rodrigo &
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Gabriela, Cake, Drive-By Truckers, Steve Earle, Buddy Miller, Son Volt.
August 26–September 2 Telluride Film Festival This year marks the 40th anniversary of TFF, an internationally acclaimed film festival with premieres, movie stars, filmmakers, and a free outdoor cinema. September 7 Imogene Pass Run Runners start in Ouray and cross over 13,114-foot Imogene Pass, finishing in Telluride. September 13–15 Telluride Blues & Brews Festival This popular fall festival features craft brews from all over the country and a beer tasting, as well as big name musical acts, all in Town Park. Late night “Juke Joints” host some of the music acts at local venues. September 19–22 Telluride WOW Festival A weekend festival devoted to fitness and wellness.
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970-728-4101 • www.tellurideadventures.com SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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From
Town Park to Musical Mecca Transforming Telluride’s Outdoor Amphitheatre
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The renowned Telluride Bluegrass Festival celebrates its 40th anniversary from June 20–23,
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Fleck, and others are always in the lineup—they return year after year for the unmatched scenery and energy of the audiences here. This year, acts such as Mumford and Sons, Dispatch, Yonder Mountain String Band, and Jackson Browne are also on the roster. The festival caps attendance at 10,000 people per day, and this year 4-day passes sold out in under four hours.
launching the music festival season. Before dawn, sometimes sleeping in line, ticketholders wait at the gates of the park with blankets and backpacks prepared for the daily tarp run to stake claims on prime viewing in front of the stage. Packed campgrounds extending beyond the park to the high school field and Lawson Hill inspire a spontaneous culture of jam sessions, potlucks, and late-night parties. Veteran performers such as Sam Bush, Peter Rowan, Bela
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
KOTO’s The Ride Festival, a celebration of rock music, returns to Town Park for its second year from July 13–14. After a successful 2012 debut, this year the festival features artists David Byrne, Big Head Todd and The Monsters, Cake, Drive-By Truckers and Steve Earle. Late-night shows also cap off the festivities. The Ride Festival appears to be a tradition in the making. Since 1977, the Telluride Jazz Celebration has earned acclaim for showcasing unique forms of national and international jazz. The event,
All photos: Brett Schreckengost
ultiple times every summer, Telluride’s Town Park transforms from calm recreational haven to music festival mecca. It has to be seen to be believed, but the festivals attract tens of thousands of people, who make the pilgrimage from all over the country into this town park, a small pocket in the San Juan Mountains. The box canyon becomes a natural amphitheatre, with harmonies ricocheting off its walls. The rustic wooden stage is dressed in lights and sound equipment, and food, beverage, and retail booths encircle the soccer and softball fields. Tents spring up like colorful wildflowers in the campground woods. Each weekend, a new tribe of music lovers treks out onto the fields, laying down tarps and setting up chairs, completing the transformation and awaiting the festival experience.
August 2–4, is produced by the Telluride Society for Jazz. Music aficionados will appreciate this year’s lineup, which includes Galactic, Stanley Clarke Band, Meshell Ndegeocello, New Orleans Suspects, and the Motet. But the festival does more than bring elite musicians to the park—the Educational Scholarship Program invites selected jazz students aged 13-18 to travel to Telluride a week before the festival to study together, culminating in the Telluride Student All-Star Jazz Ensemble that gets to perform on the main stage. For 20 years the Telluride Blues and Brews Festival has capped off the summer music festival season. This year from September 13–15, some of the biggest names in the music industry and 50 up-and-coming microbreweries, all yet to be announced, will rendezvous in the park to bestow a sensory
blend of blues music and craft beers. A key event of this festival, the Grand Tasting, takes place for three hours in the afternoon on Saturday. The microbreweries offer free tastes of their craft beers to over 9,000 people, hoping to get their name out and potentially take home the Best of Fest Award. Keeping with custom, the music continues on Friday and Saturday nights at the Juke Joint locations in town.
During the music festivals, time passes not by the minute hand on a watch but rather by the slow waning of alpenglow on the surrounding peaks. Tourists and locals, adults and children, leave the park on Sunday satisfied with festival memorabilia, new favorite musicians, and memories. Come Monday, the withered and trampled grass reveals itself again from under the tapestry of tarps, lawn chairs and coolers. After event cleanup, the Telluride Parks and Recreation Department helps the park fields return to the same pre-festival conditions. How much work that is depends on weather and the wear and tear on the park grounds. The fields are aerated, fertilized, and ready for smalltown recreation again. According to Director Stephanie Jaquet, a portion of ticket revenue from the events goes toward keeping the park facilities in good shape. “We are lucky that our fields are very well established, so they’re pretty resilient,” said Jaquet. n
SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
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Upshot
Jumping For Joy Discovering the San Juan Mountains, whether it is by foot, car, train, or plane, is always a cause for celebration. Photo by Kane Scheidegger
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SanJuan Skyway Visitor Guide - Summer/Fall 2013
Experience a mountain resort unlike any other, all set against the most stunning backdrop in North America. From skiing in the winter to golfing and countless activities in the summer. Immerse yourself, your friends and family in the relaxed and hassle-free destination of Telluride, Colorado. Indulge in exquisite cuisine, shopping and service. Visit Telluride today!
F O R T E L L U R I D E ’ S B E S T S TAY & P L AY PA C K A G E S : 8 0 0 . 7 7 8 . 8 5 8 1 | Te l l u r i d e S k i R e s o r t . c o m