Sauce Magazine // July 2014

What's your favorite ice cream topping?

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Garrett Faulkner

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Catherine k lene

Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Elizabeth Jochum, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky

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Vidhya Nagarajan

Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Garrett Faulkner, Ligaya Figueras, Sara Graham, kellie Hynes, Byron kerman, Jamie kilgore, Ted kilgore, Cory king, Catherine klene, Anne Marie Lodholz, Meera Nagarajan, Matt Obermark, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan

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whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 314.772.8004 or via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled paper using soy inks.

ediTorial policieS The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

Crumbled Heath bar Chunks of chocolate chip cookie dough Heath bar

the 2014 Readers' Choice results, which include repeat victors like Pappy's Smokehouse, voted Favorite Barbecue (That's Pappy's owner Mike Emerson on the cover.), and quite a few surprises. A Saucy congrats to all the winners! -

Tabasco butter shrimp at Evangeline's p. 19

letter from the editor

every gin drinker has a few good stories. One of mine (and my husband’s) dates to 1995 in the days leading up to our wedding. We had been warned about people who prey on newlyweds, swiping wedding gifts while the lovebirds are honeymooning or, even worse, still exchanging vows in the chapel. Aghast that someone might steal our new place settings, flatware and stemware and leave us with only our cruddy secondhand furnishings, we went around the apartment taking photos of everything of value – including a bottle of Gilbey’s gin. Price tag? Probably $7.

Bottom-shelf gins don’t have a place at The Gin Room inside Cafe Natasha’s.

Fellow gin devotee Natasha Bahrami recently revamped the bar at the South Grand restaurant to showcase a collection of 63-and-counting gins, with emphasis on small-batch and hard-to-find bottles, plus some tasty house-infused ones. You can try them in a flight, the gin and tonic of the day, or, taking a page from her father’s book, in a Dirty Persian, a wet gin martini made with his housemade pickled pepper brine.

Cafe Natasha’s isn’t just a primo pick for a gin drink. As St. Louisans have known

for years, the family-owned business is the place for Persian cuisine. And you’ve recognized the excellence of its food by voting Cafe Natasha’s your favorite Persian restaurant in the 2014 Readers’ Choice poll. (Flip the magazine over to see this year’s results.)

All too often the masses (OK, and we in the media, too) are drawn to places where the paint is barely dry. “What’s new? What’s hot?” we ask. So it’s exciting that, 30 years after throwing open the doors to Cafe Natasha’s, the Bahramis are still attracting new customers while keeping regulars happy. This year’s list of

Above: My husband took this photograph in 1995 just prior to our wedding when we feared we’d be robbed of presents and other “valuables,” like Gilbey’s gin. I defend my taste by noting the bottle of Tanqueray in the photo. Left: Natasha Bahrami (center) and I shake some gin drinks at The Gin Room inside Cafe Natasha’s while her father, Behshid Bahrami, sips a Dirty Persian martini.

winners is filled with many longstanding establishments that, like Cafe Natasha’s, keep customers coming back for more – be it for pho at Mai Lee (p. 52) or meatloaf at Annie Gunn’s (p. 42).

The combination of tried-and-true restaurants and those yet to celebrate an anniversary is what fosters a food community and gives it energy. I hope this issue reflects the diversity of our thriving dining scene and whets your appetite to revisit some familiar haunts – and check out a few newbies while you’re out and about town.

ligaya Figueras executive editor

St. Louis now boasts a number of Vietnamese restaurants, but that wasn’t the case when Mai Lee opened in 1985. On this month’s Sound Bites, Mai Lee’s Qui Tran joins Sauce executive editor Ligaya Figueras to discuss the evolution of the local Vietnamese dining scene and look back on how the family business has shaped Tran’s career. (For more on Tran, turn to p. 52.) Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape Friday, July 11 at noon and 10 p.m.

editors' picks

eat this

The BRAISED BEEF BRUSCHETTA at SCAPE AMERICAN BISTRO might not cross your mind as an appetizer in July, but trust us when we say it’s a midsummer night’s dream, especially when enjoyed alfresco at the Backbar at Scape. Moist, tender braised beef is piled atop stout cuts of sourdough and garnished with shaved Parmesan and delicate celery plumes. But it’s the one-two punch of spicy Calabrian chile peppers and a red pepper-goat cheese tapenade that turns each bite into a satisfying pageant of slow heat and robust creaminess. In the depths of summer, hefty meat dishes should probably be shared. Just not this one.

2011 Hamacher Chardonnay

Aged for 18 months in French oak, this full-bodied, golden beauty from Willamette Valley in Oregon will be our liquid sunshine all summer long. $50. Garland Wines, 11 S. Old Orchard Ave., Webster Groves, 314.961.9463, garlandwines.com

Strange Donuts vs. The World video game

Strange Donuts has found a way to make waiting in its long line fun. Download this video game and navigate your skater past an 8-bit Mai Lee, Pastaria and more local favorites to collect coins and dones. Just watch out for cops, potholes and gators. Free. Available for iPhone and Android

Fixations

It’s summer, and it’s time to play – whether with a Strange Donuts video game, a coffee-inspired skateboard or a sharp, new kitchen toy. Here are the products at the top of our shopping list right now.

cream

This condiment is the closest Italians come to making peanut butter, and it’s delicious. Use it as a filling for pastries like cornetti or cannoli, or just grab a spoon and eat it straight from the jar. $10. eataly.com

Wüsthof 200th anniversary celebration

two-piece knife set

What happens when one of the most respected names in cutlery has a birthday?

This limited-edition set, which includes a 9-inch chef’s knife and a 4-inch paring knife with forged carbon steel blades and rosewood handles. Danke, Wüsthof. $199. Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., St. Louis, 314.664.4005, bertarellicutlery.com

Blood Orange & Vanilla

Bean Meltaway Bar

Tiny Illinois chocolatier Ethereal Confections offers big flavor with its organic dark chocolate bar filled with a creamy blood orange and vanilla bean center. $8. Olive Oils & More, 105 E. Argonne Drive, Kirkwood, 314.821.4645 and 202 S. Buchanan St., Edwardsville, 618.656.4645, oliveoilstoreandmore.com

Want to add this Wüsthof knife set to your collection? We’re giving it away online this month. Follow us on Facebook for a chance to win.

Crown Valley Big Bison rib-eye

These fabulous 10-ounce steaks come from naturally raised bison that roam the Crown Valley Winery vineyards in Ste. Genevieve. Pair that lean, flavorful meat with Crown Valley’s Big Bison Ale. $20 each. Crown Valley Winery, Brewery and Distillery, 23589 State Route WW, 866.207.9463, bigbisonmeat.com

Pour-over station skateboard

We’re buzzing over this piece of functional art handcrafted by Mississippi Mud Coffee owner and artist Chris Ruess. A carved wooden skateboard complete with steel wheels becomes the perfect station for brewing two pour-over coffees. $200. mississippimudcoffee.com

Delancey: A Memoir

What’s it really like to open a restaurant? Molly Wizenberg, author of A Homemade Life and food blog Orangette, gives a blood-sweat-and-tears account of how she and her husband opened acclaimed Seattle pizzeria Delancey and survived. $25. Left Bank Books, 399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.367.6731, left-bank.com

Scyavuru pistachio

hit list

6 new places to try this month

Death in the Afternoon

808 Chestnut St., St. Louis, 314.621.3236, deathinthe afternoonstl.com 3

The much-anticipated lunch spot in Citygarden from Blood & Sand’s Adam Frager and T.J. Vytlacil is open. But adjust your expectations, aficionados: Unlike its members-only sister restaurant-lounge, Death in the Afternoon is open to the public, doesn’t serve dinner and doesn’t have a cocktail menu. What you will find is a gorgeous gardenside patio and a lunchtime bill of snacks, soups, sandwiches and salads. We enjoyed the grilled pita with an eggplant dip redolent with Asian flavors, as well as crispy falafel that shares space with garden-fresh veggies and tzatziki in a warm pita. For a more Westernized option, try the burger with Calabrian chile aioli. Pair it with a beer brewed on-site by new Upper 90 Brewing Co.

Root & Vine

5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.5553, fivebistro.com

Anthony Devoti’s latest rotating restaurant concept inside his Five Bistro focuses on produce, much of it grown in Five’s garden. The almostvegetarian, six-course prix-fixe begins with a deviled duck egg placed atop a leaf of bok choy kimchee. Other highlights include a panna cotta of creamed turnips served with smoked trout and a gnocchi dish that celebrates spring onions. But don’t wait too long, veg-heads; we can’t guarantee Root & Vine will last past July.

Jilly’s Ice Cream Bar

8509 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.993.5455, jillysicecreambar.com

Jilly’s Cupcake Bar & Café, this chef-driven ice cream bar offers 19 ice cream flavors divided into classics, cupcake inspirations and monthly chef creations. Our pick is the Ka-Boomm, chock-full of brownie bits, Oreo chunks and M&Ms. Enjoy it in a Jilly’s cupcake waffle cone or a twoscoop side-by-side cake cone. Feeling indulgent? Build your own sundae or go with a signature one like Lemonberry: Bee Sting ice cream, blueberry compote, morsels of streusel crunch, whipped cream, a cherry and a wee sugar bee. 1

A Pizza Story

7278 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0011, apizzastory.com

A Pizza Story’s pizzaiolo and co-owner Muhammad Alhawagri spent months perfecting a dough recipe that serves as the foundation for 12-inch Neopolitanstyle pies like Fantasy (burrata, prosciutto and arugula), Mystery (a pairing of meaty mushrooms and red peppers) and s pace opera (smoked salmon, capers and fresh dill atop a swath of ricotta), all baked in a wood-burning oven. A slight twist on the dough recipe makes for a fine house bread, seasoned with rosemary and sea salt. If the limoncello gelato is available during your visit, order it.

Que Sazon

314.775.7714, quesazontruck.com

Que Sazon finds its niche in the food truck scene with authentic, flavorful South American cuisine. Expect a rotation of empanadas, their smaller cousin the empanadilla, and arepas –handheld cornmeal discs split and stuffed with meat, beans, cheese or vegetables. Keep an eye out for the arepas de pernil, filled with slow-roasted pork and a house-made mango barbecue sauce, or the pollo and mango arepa of tender chicken studded with bright bits of avocado and mango. Light, flaky empanadas hold surprising flavor combinations – like the Che, filled with ground beef, hard-boiled egg and briny green olives served with chimichurri mayo on the side. Wash this down with a glass of refreshing maracuya, a sweet-sour passion fruit juice.

Located just steps from its sister establishment

Shack Restaurant

13645 Big Bend Road, Suite 105, Valley Park, 636.529.1600, shackstl.com

Shack Restaurant recently relocated to Valley Park and added breakfast to the menu. The Nutty Monkey smoothie, a mix of crunchy granola and banana, is a great way to ease your hunger pangs before the real food arrives. Order The Kitchen Sink from the Skillets section and load up on ham, bacon, sausage, veggies, white cheddar, hash browns and eggs. Craving sweet? The Wild Berries buttermilk pancakes are crowned with a scrumptious berry compote and a generous spoonful of creme fraiche. Best of all was the breakfast pizza, which changes frequently. Ours held a richly satisfying version of creamed spinach, pork belly and eggs – but atop that sweet yeasty dough, anything would be delicious.

rev iews

and notable

Bistro and Music house

by

The 7-month-old Evangeline’s Bistro and Music House –instantly likeable and New Orleans-inspired – sits on the northern fringe of the Central West End in the same handsome building where Pierce-Arrow automobiles were once displayed. With a loud bandstand at the front of the dining room, the atmosphere can be boisterous, even overwhelming. It can also be a helluva lot of fun – one evening the celebratory spirit of birthday revelers was so fetching that other diners couldn’t help but join in. Another positive observation: Apart from the Goody Goody Diner, the clientele during my visits was the most racially diverse I’ve seen in a St. Louis restaurant recently.

Micha E l R E nn ER | PhoTos by JonaT han Gay M an

Blackened red snapper at Evangeline's

On the patio, there is an air of New Orleans festivity with outside seating and street performers, including a dancer gyrating in slow motion with a hula hoop. Inside, diners can watch the action through gorgeous floor-toceiling, wraparound windows. Overall, the dining room is a tastefully appointed, inviting space.

though it seems odd to serve your top appetizer gratis, the kitchen sends out

two pieces of complimentary bruschetta, one topped with marinated feta – spicy and bright with Cajun seasonings and lemon – the other a muffuletta full of chunkier-than-normal, coarse-cut olives and carrots. There’s no barbecue shrimp on the menu, but the Tabasco butter shrimp carries considerable heat for the classic dish: seven big tail-on Gulf shrimp drenched in a piquant sauce of Tabasco, butter, garlic and shredded Parmesan. The heat was surprisingly gentle, and a squeeze or two

from a lime on the side made it even more so. You’ll want to use the generous slices of grilled French bread for sopping up as much of that sauce as possible.

Sticklers for authenticity will either have to lighten up or save their taste buds for the Crescent City; the fact is, the line between Creole and Cajun styles has blurred over the years. Call it New Orleans-influenced cuisine or even Cre-jun, but Evangeline’s doesn’t overthink what’s genuine and what’s not. Case in point: cheese, lots of it. Of the 25 menu items (excluding salads and cheese bread), 10 listed Parmesan or mozzarella as an ingredient. That doesn’t even include the shredded Parmesan used to garnish several other dishes. The dairy-averse would be wise to inquire about the amount of cheese in their order.

That’s not to say it’s bad. The beans in the Famous Red Beans and Rice were cooked to the proper texture, the andouille was smoky, the house-cured steak cut thick and the two mounds of fragrant jasmine rice steamed just right. I don’t know if it was replacing the ham with steak, adding red wine or dialing down the heat that made the dish “famous,” but it was an innovative – and very good – spin on an old standard. Other entrees included three étouffées (crawfish, shrimp, blue crab), gumbo, jambalaya, baked chicken, seared duck breast and blackened red snapper.

The blue crab étouffée had the rich texture of butter and cream, and included the bell pepper, celery and onion “holy trinity” – all nearly overpowering the headliner. Accenting the dish was a crab leg, which would have been a good idea but for its anorexic size and lack of a cracking utensil to extract whatever miniscule amount of meat lay inside. However, the kitchen scored big with its blackened red snapper filet by keeping the warm spices balanced, being judicious with the meunière sauce and understanding that “blackened” doesn’t mean burnt and bitter.

The cooks also know that duck breast should be served medium-rare, a practice

they back up by stating so right on the menu. The four medallions of juicy, caramelized breast in a balsamic reduction and topped with orange zest were both savory and tart. Thick-cut rounds of roasted potatoes and spinach, sauteed with garlic and ginger, rounded out the dish.

there were po’boys, of course, and they were substantial. The fried oyster version was so loaded down – plump Gulf Coast oysters, red Cajun gravy, chopped romaine lettuce, sliced Creole tomato and, yes, shredded Parmesan – that closing it would have been futile. This was a knifeand-fork sandwich. Even with the sauce and shaggy, crunchy breading, the oysters’ briny-fresh flavor and tender texture came through with each bite. All sandwiches come with a choice of sides and a cherryinfused pickle.

Abita Amber beer went well with that po’boy, but there was a good selection of local brews on tap also. (Sadly, Dixie beer, a New Orleans mainstay, isn’t available.) Hurricanes were made fresh with juice instead of syrupy-sweet nonsense. For dessert, Evangeline’s serves up favorites like bananas Foster and adapts cherries jubilee by using strawberries. Both were prepared in the kitchen but can be made tableside upon request. Beignets are served at Sunday brunch, and the bourbon pecan pie was a pleaser: not too sweet with a hint of booze, a flaky crust and crunchy nuts. It had me at first bite.

During all visits, service was engaged and friendly, though there were long lags between appetizers and entrees. Others must have experienced similar timing problems, evidenced by the general manager holding several table conversations with diners, none of whom were smiling.

Much like NOLA itself, Evangeline’s makes no bones about what it is: a lively, convivial spot with good food made from scratch and with earnest intent – even if there is a lot of cheese.

The melt-in-your-mouth brisket [1] was the star of the show. Adam’s sliced it thin as deli meat, and its reddish trim and smoky taste were rapturous. Only a heretic would put a drop of sauce on it. That masterful smoked salami [2] was flecked with fat and black pepper, and arrived on the tongue with an umami-blast of salty, meaty goodness. Smoked turkey, so often the overlooked stepsister of pork ’cue, was another, more minor revelation of deliciousness.

Of course, ribs are the sine qua non of a smokehouse. While Adam’s ribs [3] had a juicy texture and tasty cap of smoked fat and muscle above the ribs themselves, they weren’t smoky enough and lacked something – possibly rub – to make them stand out. The chicken (served whole or by the half) was moist and smoker-pink, but was slathered thickly in a cranberry cayenne sauce. If you’re not nuts about the sharp flavor of cayenne, ask for it unsauced. Unfortunately, the pulled pork was overcooked and had to be rescued with one of Adam’s sauces. And the burnt ends, a Wednesday and Saturday off-menu special, were missing the concentrated burst of caramelized flavor the meat normally has.

Power Lunch AdAM's sMokehouse

By Byron k erm A n | photos By jon Ath A n g Aym A n

Adam’s Smokehouse, which opened in Clifton Heights last fall, boasts an ownership and management team with intimate ties to both Pappy’s and Bogart’s smokehouses. One of its specialties is brisket, which just might bring you to your knees. The smoked salami alone is worth the pilgrimage. Other cuts, however, aren’t worship-worthy just yet.

worked their asses off, and the customer was king. The speed at Adam’s was thunderbolt-quick; you might order at the register and suddenly notice, before finding a table, a server hovering next to you with your order in a basket. Yet the staff was far from coldly efficient or impersonal. Everyone was so kind that they made this firsttimer feel like a regular. The management frequently visited the tables to assure everything was in order, a rare and welcome gesture these days.

Adam’s has a wonderfully simple menu that befits a barbecue joint. It’s easy to figure out your favorites and worth returning for them again and again. The juicy, smoky brisket, salami and turkey are enough to drive any decent person to sin – gluttony, for those who live nearby, and envy, for those who don’t.

While many barbecue joints around town leave a half-dozen sauces at each table, Adam’s exercises austerity with a simple selection of three. Sweet Jane is its version of St. Louis’ preferred, heavily sugared sauce; it was sweet but not cloying. The aforementioned cranberry cayenne was tangy and left a

bit of heat lingering on the tongue. It’s a bold combo of flavors that will likely divide the crowd – you’ll either love it or say “nuh-uh.” Carolina is that region’s signature thin, vinegar-based sauce, and was done with aplomb.

with both mustard and mayo – and a creamy slaw were identical, respectively, to what you’d find at Pappy’s and Bogart’s. A mild house-made pasta salad was thoroughly enlivened by a squirt of the Carolina sauce. The menu had no desserts, but a decorative pig filled with free chocolate crouched near the register.

Adam’s Smokehouse 2819 Watson road, st. louis, 314.875.9890, adamssmokehouse.com

Meat Me in St. louiS

a trinity of SauceS

[1]

the takeaway

SideS and other diverSionS

Service at light Speed

The pit beans were dotted with bits of pork, but the smoke flavor was overwhelmed by a pronounced brownsugar sweetness. The potato salad – made

The service ethic at Adam’s was identical to that of its sister restaurants: Everyone

Bella vino

By mAtt B erk L ey | p hotos By jon Ath A

On a calm Saturday night on Main Street in St. Charles, the clamor of the packed dining room at Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas hits newcomers with the force of an oncoming freight train. It’s immediately obvious that Bella Vino, which opened its doors on Black Friday last year, has done well since. The crowd speaks for itself (loudly). And despite a handful of rookie mistakes, this is one of the better 30s-plus, couplesfriendly spots St. Charles has seen in years.

t here’s a definite house-party feel to Bella v ino. This may be because the building was once a home on historic Main Street. (Locals will remember this spot as the location of The Vine.) Front patio tables serve as popular perches for couples and groups of friends who flock

there during happy hour. A handful of waiters dash about the foyer/bar area upstairs, running carafes of wine out to customers. The interior parlor room is tastefully dressed down in subtle color tones, wooden floors and exposed brick. Back and to the right, a wraparound couch dominates a far room that opens to a spacious rear patio with overflow space, inhabited on some weekend nights by private parties.

There is plenty to like, starting with the wine menu, which deftly straddles the line between sparse and overloaded. There’s nothing intimidating about this place, and at the same time, there’s nothing serious wine lovers would roll their eyes at either. The compact, two-page menu overflows with pinots, sauvignon blancs,

cabernets, rich super Tuscans and other conscientiously placed, reasonably priced white and red blends. These choices are reinforced with a handful of bottled beers plucked from nearby microbreweries. There exists an unimpressive cocktail menu, which stumbles on itself with fruit purée infusions that, despite being fresh, should be dropped entirely. The worst offender is the Blood Orange Margarita, the flavor of which my companion likened to orange baby aspirin. Best to stick with the wines.

sumptuous, dark red Malbecs were standouts that complemented the handful of thoughtfully crafted small plates. The mussels and chorizo was a surprisingly light starter that featured delightful thick strands of homemade pasta. Crisp flatbreads with such accoutrements as fresh mozzarella, pancetta and soppresso were likewise well worth tucking into. The best of these had to be the duck prosciutto flatbread with Gorgonzola, which normally smacks too much of bleu cheese for my taste. This one was much smoother and offset by a tinge of sweetness from the caramelized onions, which did not overpower the savory cuts of duck. The calamari was another treat, served thickly sliced, lightly breaded and searingly hot, adjacent to a bed of crispy fried spinach and a few dollops of saffron aioli. The menu’s identity crisis (is it tapas or is it Italian?) certainly didn’t detract from the stellar plates themselves. Fair warning, though: they were all quite small, so order accordingly. Also, plan to linger over your drinks. Though the servers were enthusiastic, they were unimaginably slow in delivering beverage orders, which were frustratingly served up one at a time – a custom understandable with tapas but not with booze.

Dress code at Bella Vino is upscale business casual. Tables are typically full, and for good reason: it’s worth the wait. Generous flavors and tall pours of affordable options (most bottles come in under the $40 mark) help fuel the laid-back ambiance of this enticing little wine bar, which has proven a sublime addition to downtown St. Charles.

With dark berry notes, the 2010 Monteti “caburnio” super tuscan is available by the glass or bottle.

and sweet. nightlife

Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas, 325 s. Main st., st. charles, 636.724.3434,

Bella Vino

The House cured duck Prosciutto flatbread: subtle

dine & drink

Check out the Kilgore's pick for a mai tai.

The Kilgores recommend these brands to mix a mai tai: Appleton Estate Reserve, Clément V.S.O.P. Rhum Agricole Vieux, Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao and BG Reynolds’ Oregeat.

A SEAT AT Th E BAR

Four experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s

While I’m anxious for local tomatoes to turn bright red, early-season green ones –battered and fried – keep me content, too. Continuing my quest to pair any food with a regional wine, I turned to 2012 st. James Winery Pioneer White

Although I tend to think of Missouri wines mostly as single varietals, this one is a blend. The combination of chardonel, seyval blanc and vignoles – three of Missouri’s workhorse white grapes – lend this very dry wine a juicy, fruity balance. Its crisp acidity and medium body make it an impressive match for tangy fried green tomatoes.

Ted and jaMie kilgore

USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House

A mai tai has somehow come to indicate a rum drink with loads of whatever juice is on hand. But being sticklers for classics, we always make this cocktail the way Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron did when he created it in 1944 for two Tahitian friends. Upon tasting the drink, one of Vic’s pals exclaimed, “ Maita’i roa ae !” meaning, “Out of this world! The best!” We couldn’t agree more. To make Trader Vic’s mai tai, combine 1 ounce Jamaican rum, 1 ounce Martinique rhum, ½ ounce orange curaçao, ½ ounce orgeat and 1 ounce fresh lime juice in a shaker. Shake and strain over crushed ice. Garnish with the spent lime shell and a mint sprig.

cory king

Certified Cicerone, head brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales and founder of Side Project Brewing

Mikkel Borg Bjergsø of Danish microbrewery Mikkeller is a leader among European brewers, pushing boundaries with everything from sours and IPAs to imperial stouts and incredibly low ABV beers. Bjergsø recently celebrated Mikkeller’s return to the Missouri marketplace by brewing a beer specifically for us: show Me cuvee. It pours a perfect ruby color with thick toffee and biscuit on the nose. Ripe figs, a hint of brightness and a Belgian candy palate flow with the moderate but fluffy carbonation. This beer is delicate and traditionally inspired, but forward, new and exciting. Show me more, Mikkel!

glenn bardgeTT

Barbecue brews

By m Att o B erm A rk

Barbecue season is in full swing, and while grilled meats are fine on their own, if you want to stay true to ‘cue culture, ice-cold beer must be part of the ritual. But which brew to choose? Every protein has a distinct flavor profile, which means that not every meat is best paired with the pale yellow, fizzy stuff so often associated with barbecue. Luckily, the craft beer boon has given us more choices than ever beyond the ubiquitous lager. So before you fire up the grill and don your Kiss The Cook man-apron, head to your favorite beer store and stock up on these suds.

schlafly Yakima Wheat ale + barbecue chicken

Black pepper and juniper notes from Yakima Valley hops enable this spicy Schlafly brew to stand strong next to grilled chicken. Leave the skin of that bird on and stick with a simple seasoning like herbes de Provence.

Perennial artisan ale Peach

Berliner Weisse + pork steaks

Peaches and pork are a classic combination. Act like a local and pair your pork steak with another homegrown sensation – Perennial’s

tart, German-style wheat beer brewed with Missouri peaches. Its delicate fruit notes, dry finish and acidity make it an ideal match for the staple of St. Louis grilling.

avery Joe’s Premium american Pilsner + spicy sausages

This sessionable beer made with noble German hops has the floral aroma, effervesence and subtle sweetness to cut through the heat of your favorite sausages. To change things up, add some fresh grapefruit juice or your favorite lemonade for a top-notch shandy.

Four Hands cast iron oatmeal Brown + beef ribs

Don’t slather those ribs with sugary barbecue sauce. If you like a little sweet with your meat, pair it with this rich brown ale that holds notes of dark chocolate and coffee.

Firestone Walker Union

Jack iPa + burgers

Malty-sweet with spicy hops and a citrusy earthiness, this West Coast-style IPA is complex enough to handle whatever variety of toppings you choose for that burger.

his and hers

BY

As anyone who has ever ordered a ham-and-cheese-no-ham sandwich knows, a vegetarian diet is defined by what we’re not eating. No meat, no fish. For some, it also means no dairy or eggs – there’s a whole spectrum of no-nos. Which, ironically, leads to a fondness for the seemingly inedible, like nondairy chocolate. and quinoa. seriously, folks, i don’t really love quinoa. i just smother it in fresh fruit and nuts because people get all judgy when i feed my kids French fries for breakfast.

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reuben sandwiches

kellie h Y nes | Photos BY c ARM en t R oesse R

I sometimes wonder whether vegetarian cuisine would be more interesting and more palatable to nonvegetarians if we flipped our way of thinking. Instead of talking about what we choose to omit, what if we focused on foods we can add?

A hold-the-corned-beef Reuben sandwich is my standard order at the deli counter. Russian or Thousand Island dressing, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, rye bread and butter blend together strangely and magnificently, creating a masterpiece of satisfying meatless flavors. Testing my theory meant including a new food to make an already delicious vegetarian Reuben even better.

Sauerkraut has such a strong flavor that whatever I added needed to complement it. I imagine real chefs know intuitively what flavors work with each other. I am not a real chef, and the only intuition I possess is how to choose the slowestmoving checkout line. So bite by bite, I mixed a potential sandwich topping with forkfuls of sauerkraut and tasted them. Here is the list of foods that absolutely do not belong on a Reuben: grilled pineapple, kale, grapes, watermelon and a fried egg. I was most disappointed in the fried egg. I had hoped it would add a velvety texture that responded to the bite of the sauerkraut. It did not. Also on the don’t-try-this-at-home list was any bread other than rye. I tried to substitute the normally delicious Whole Foods Seeduction bread, but the taste clashed with all of the other Reuben ingredients. While the corned beef may be optional, a Reuben on anything but rye is just a really bad sandwich.

However, I’m thrilled that fig jam paired perfectly with the sauerkraut. It added the sweetness of a traditional Russian or Thousand Island dressing without the heaviness of an oily condiment. I spread the fig jam over a piece of buttered, toasted rye, added sauerkraut, and topped it with a generous amount of shredded raw-milk Emmentaler, which has more flavor than plain deli-counter Swiss. It was tasty, but truthfully, all of the butter, cheese and sauerkraut juices made my sandwich feel like a pile of melted – albeit yummy – goo. A roasted red bell pepper added a bit of structure to the mess, and I thought the pepper’s mild taste and meaty texture would appeal to my husband, Carnivore Bob. But when I presented my new

and improved Reuben to him, the conversation went like this:

Bob: This isn’t a Reuben. There’s no Thousand Island dressing. Me: Sure it is. It’s a pseudo-Reuben. You know, Rubenesque. Bob: Um, that’s not what that word means.

While rye bread and sauerkraut were the defining Reuben ingredients for me, apparently Thousand Island dressing is the deal-breaker for my hubby. And since he’s a good guy who cheerfully eats fried eggs and rye toast (no kraut) for dinner when I’m too busy developing recipes to actually cook, I created a vegetarian Reuben just for him. His Reuben was the standard rye, Thousand Island and sauerkraut, with the addition of a broiled apple and Gruyere cheese. The soft apple appealed to Carnivore Bob’s sweet tooth and harmonized with the sauerkraut and nutty Gruyere.

This project started because I wanted to change how I thought about vegetarian cuisine. Along the way, I learned that, like fine art, what appeals to one person will leave another politely spitting into his napkin. You may prefer the approachable apple and Gruyere version, or appreciate the quirky fig jam and roasted red bell pepper combination. Either way, what’s important is that you’re saying “yes” to something rather than “no” to meat.

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 2 tsp. russian or Thousand island dressing

½ cup sauerkraut, drained

2 oz. freshly grated gruyere cheese

• Preheat the broiler. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place the apple slices on the baking sheet and broil them 6 inches from the heat until the apple is soft and browning on the edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the apples from the heat and set aside.

• Replace the aluminum foil with a fresh sheet and arrange the bread slices on it. Brush the tops lightly with melted butter. Broil 6 inches from the heat until toasted, 1 minute. (Watch the bread carefully; it burns quickly.) Remove the bread from the heat.

• Place 2 pieces of bread toasted-side down on a plate. Spread 1 teaspoon dressing on the untoasted sides. Flip the remaining 2 slices of bread on the baking sheet. Arrange equal amounts of sauerkraut and apple on each, and top with cheese. Broil the open-faced sandwiches until the cheese is melted, 1 minute. Top each with a previously toasted bread slice. Serve hot.

HER VEgETaRian REubEn

2 SERVINGS

Half a large red bell pepper, stemmed and seeded 4 slices rye bread

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

2 tsp. fig jam

½ cup sauerkraut, drained

2 oz. freshly shredded emmentaler cheese

• Preheat the broiler. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place the bell pepper skin-side up on the baking sheet. Broil 6 inches from the heat until the pepper is mostly charred, 8 to 10 minutes. Using tongs, immediately place the pepper in a zip-lock bag and seal. Allow the hot pepper to steam 15 minutes. Using your fingers, peel and discard the charred skin. Cut the pepper into four long, thin slices and set aside.

• Replace the aluminum foil with a fresh sheet and arrange the bread slices on it. Brush the tops lightly with melted butter. Broil 6 inches from the heat until toasted, 1 minute. (Watch the bread carefully; it burns quickly.) Remove the bread from the heat.

• Place 2 pieces of bread toasted-side down on a plate. Spread 1 teaspoon fig jam on the untoasted sides. Flip the remaining 2 slices of bread on the baking sheet. Arrange equal amounts of sauerkraut and 2 pieces roasted bell pepper on each, and top with cheese. Broil the open-faced sandwiches until the cheese is melted, 1 minute. Top each with a previously toasted bread slice. Serve hot.

2 SERVINGS

1 large red apple, Fuji or other sweet variety, cored, sliced ¼-inch thick

4 slices rye bread

MAKE THIS

WAteRMelon AGUA fReSc A

Refreshing, vibrant and summery, watermelon agua fresca is a heat- and humidity-buster in a glass. To a blender, add: 3 cups cubed, seeded watermelon; half a peeled, chopped cucumber; 5 to 6 mint leaves; and ½ cup water. Blend until liquified. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a pitcher. Stir in 1 tablespoon lime juice and 1 tablespoon simple syrup. Refrigerate until chilled. Then throw on your best sundress and Panama hat, find a shady spot and start sipping. – Dee Ryan

To turn this agua fresca into a tasty cocktail, pour 1 ounce gin in a glass filled with crushed ice. Add 4 ounces aqua fresca and stir gently. Garnish with fresh mint. Careful! It goes down pretty easy.

Po P ular Deman D

7 restaurant favorites you can make at home

reci P es com P ile D B y catherine klene

The last bite. It’s a bittersweet moment, when you slowly raise that final forkful of an amazing dish, satisfied yet saddened. How, you wonder, did they make that? And more important, how can I make that? Surely these chefs must hold the cards close to their chests, right? Luckily, many chefs are happy to share their culinary knowledge – and recipes – with you. Sauce readers asked us to hunt down the secrets behind some of their favorite dishes in St. Louis, and here, we give you the highlights – by popular demand.

P ancakes buttermilk

We confess: This was a Sauce staff request. Light and pillowy with crisp edges, these perfect pancakes will revolutionize your Sunday mornings. Or Tuesday nights. (Hey, go ahead. We don’t judge.)

from winslow's home, recipe on p. 47

croissants salte D caramel

Oh, the Saturday mornings we’ve driven to Pint Size Bakery on a quest for buttery, flaky croissants, only to find them sold out! When Sauce reader Lisa Walther asked us to nab this recipe, we were more than happy to oblige. Saturday is saved. from pint size bakery, recipe on p. 45

afraid of working with yeast doughs? Frozen, store-bought puff pastry makes an oK substitute. the final pastry will have a texture crisper and will be less tender. start at the folding stage using sugar. Bake 20 to 25 minutes until lightly golden.

eggs encocotte

Sandy Zub put in a request for one of Brasserie’s classic brunch dishes, a luxurious blanket of warm, creamed spinach studded with bacon and a pillow of delicate, barely-set baked eggs. Yeah, those eggs en cocotte have given us reason to crawl out of bed on more than one occasion. Now we can enjoy these French oeufs while wearing our pajamas. from brasserie, recipe on p. 45

mushroom sauce meatloaf with

Sauce reader Bob LaFoy hails Annie Gunn’s meatloaf, smothered in a mushroom sauce scented with red wine, as the best he’s ever had. We’re inclined to agree – so much so that we poked and prodded executive chef Lou Rook III for nine long months before he finally handed over the recipe. from annie gunn's, recipe on p. 45

Guerrilla Street Food excels at Filipino fusion, as Sauce reader Tamara Paget Walters knows well. Ms. Walters, not only did the food truck deliver its recipe for pulled pork that you requested, but also the directions for its Flying Pig – a plate of jasmine rice topped with the succulent pulled pork you crave and a poached egg. Talk about a By Popular Demand bonus!

from guerilla street food, recipe on p. 47

c a k e coconut cassata

Sauce reader Matthew Brown begged us to get the recipe for the decadent coconut cassata cake at Piccione Pastry. Brown described the bakery’s signature cake as “liquor-soaked.” Your buzz isn’t coming from booze, Mr. Brown, but rather the rich combination of coconut milk and heavy cream. Oh, and sugar. And eggs. And vanilla …

from piccione pastry, recipe on p. 47

RECipES

SalTEd CaRaMEl CRoiSSanTS (Kouign-amann)

Courtesy of Pint Size Bakery & Coffee’s Christy Augustin

12 SERVINGS

1 Tbsp. fresh cake yeast, firmly packed 5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, divided

¼ cup unbleached bread flour

1½ tsp. plus 1 Tbsp. coarse sea salt, divided

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature

Vegetable oil to coat

1 lb. unsalted butter, chilled 3 to 4 cups sugar, divided

• In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, crumble the yeast into 14 ounces of room temperature water. Add 4¾ cups all-purpose flour, bread flour, 1½ teaspoons sea salt and the room temperature butter and mix slowly on low speed 2 to 3 minutes, until mixture is uniformly moist and butter is incorporated into the dough.

• Lightly coat the dough in vegetable oil, then wrap the bowl in plastic wrap and refrigerate 1 hour.

• Meanwhile, prepare the butter block, or beurrage . In the bowl of the stand mixer, mix the cold butter, remaining ¼ cup all-purpose flour and remaining 1 tablespoon sea salt on medium speed. Use your hands to shape the beurrage into a 6-by-9inch rectangle approximately ½-inch thick on a piece of parchment paper. Let rest at room temperature 10 minutes until pliable but not greasy. If it is too soft, refrigerate up to 20 minutes.

• Remove the risen dough from the refrigerator, punch it down and fold in half to deflate. Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface and

roll out into a 9-by-12-inch rectangle approximately ½-inch thick.

• Place the beurrage on the bottom half of the dough rectangle and fold the top half over the beurrage, crimping the edges lightly to seal, as if making a calzone or hand pie.

• Lightly dust the work surface and dough with flour, then roll it out again into a 9-by-12-inch rectangle ½-inch thick. Fold the dough into thirds, as if it were a letter to fit in an envelope. Dust off any extra flour between the folds.

• Rotate the folded dough 90 degrees and repeat the rolling and folding method again. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate 20 to 25 minutes.

• Sprinkle the work surface with sugar. Roll and fold the dough 2 more times, rotating 90 degrees between each turn, and spreading 1½ cup sugar on the work surface and dough as you go. Do not dust off excess in between turns or folds; the sugar creates the caramel. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate 20 to 25 minutes.

• Sprinkle the work surface with the remaining sugar and roll out the dough a final time, creating a 12-by16-inch rectangle ½-inch thick. The croissant dough will keep frozen up to 1 week or refrigerated up to 12 hours.

• Slice the rolled croissant dough into 12 4¼-inch squares with a pizza cutter or sharp knife. Pull the opposite corners of each square to the center and press lightly, making a clover shape.

• Butter the cups of a jumbo muffin pan or 12 pastry rings. Place each croissant in a cup and let the dough rise in a warm place 30 to 35 minutes until puffed (previously frozen dough may take up to 1 hour).

• Preheat the oven to 390 degrees. Bake croissants 25 to 30 minutes until dark golden brown. Unmold while warm and serve.

EggS En CoCoTTE

Courtesy of Brasserie’s Nick Blue

8 SERVINGS

2 lbs. bacon, medium dice

2½ lbs. spinach, washed and dried

1 Tbsp. vegetable oil

8 cups heavy cream, divided 16 eggs, divided kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Fresh chives, chopped, to garnish

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Scatter the diced bacon on a sheet pan and bake 15 minutes, tossing every 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels and set aside. Leave the oven on.

• In a large pan, heat the vegetable oil. Add the spinach and saute until wilted, 1 to 2 minutes.

• Divide the spinach and bacon evenly between 8 6-inch cast-iron skillets or place in 1 large, deep cast-iron skillet. Pour 1 cup heavy cream into each skillet (If using 1 large skillet, pour all 8 cups into the skillet.) and bring each to a simmer over medium heat.

• Once simmering, crack two eggs into each skillet and season with salt and pepper. (If cooking in a single skillet, crack all 16 eggs over the top.) Bake about 6 minutes, until the egg white is almost set. Then, switch the setting to broil. Broil for a few minutes, until lightly browned. Garnish with chives and serve.

MEaTloaF WiTH MuSHRooM SauCE

Courtesy of Annie Gunn’s Lou Rook III

8 SERVINGS

1 cup tomato juice

¾ cup tomato paste

2 large eggs

1 large Vidalia onion, finely chopped

5 lbs. ground beef

2 cups panko breadcrumbs

1½ Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

¼ cup canola oil

8 oz. button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

3 cups low-sodium beef broth (no MSg)

3 Tbsp. cornstarch

½ cup red wine

• Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Grease a rimmed,18-by-13-inch baking sheet.

• In a medium bowl, whisk together the tomato juice, tomato paste and eggs. Set aside.

• In another large bowl, mix together the onion, ground beef, breadcrumbs, salt, pepper and the tomato mixture until well incorporated.

• Divide the meat mixture in half and form into 2 loaves. Set the loaves on the baking sheet and bake 25 minutes, or until the internal temperature of each meatloaf reaches 125 degrees.

• Meanwhile, heat the canola oil in a 2-quart saucepan. Over high heat saute the mushrooms 3 minutes.

• Lower the heat to medium and deglaze with the beef broth, scraping the bottom of the pan, and bring to a simmer.

• In a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch into the red wine to dissolve. Add the slurry to the beef broth, and simmer 3 minutes, whisking constantly. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

• Cut the meatloaf into ½-inch slices. Working in batches on a grill pan over medium heat, sear the slices 3 minutes, rotate the slices 90 degrees and sear another 3 minutes. Flip meatloaf and repeat on opposite side.

• To serve, place 2 slices of meatloaf on each plate and ladle mushroom sauce over the top.

c a k e tres leches

The tres leches cake at Milagro Modern Mexican soaks up a sweet, thick cream mixture that’s so addictive, Sauce reader Susan Dayton had to have the recipe. What time is dessert, Ms. Dayton?

from milagro modern mexican, recipe on p. 47

CoConuT CaSSaTa CaKE

Courtesy of Piccione Pastry’s Laura Dignon

12 SERVINGS

For the sponge cake

6 oz. cake flour

11 oz. granulated sugar, divided 9 eggs, separated into whites and yolks

½ Tbsp. cream of tartar

½ Tbsp. vanilla extract

For the coconut pastry cream

¼ cup cornstarch

¾ cup granulated sugar, divided

1 14-oz. can coconut milk, divided 4 egg yolks

1 pinch kosher salt

2 Tbsp. vanilla extract

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 cups heavy cream

¼ cup powdered sugar

Toasted coconut flakes, to garnish

For the sponge cake:

• Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Line 2 9-by-13-inch cake pans with parchment paper and coat with cooking spray.

• In a medium bowl, sift together the flour and 5 ounces sugar. Set aside.

• Using a mixer, beat the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 1 minute. Add the remaining 6 ounces sugar and whip on medium speed until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes. Set aside.

• Using a mixer, whip the egg yolks on high until they are light in color and doubled in volume, about 1 minute. Then, with the mixer running, add the vanilla extract.

• Use a spatula to fold the whipped egg yolks into the egg whites. Slowly fold in the flour-sugar mixture in batches, making sure there are no flour pockets in the bowl. Transfer the batter to the prepared pans, smoothing the top slightly.

• Bake 15 minutes, then rotate the pan and bake another 15 minutes until the cake is golden and pulls away from the pan. Set aside and let cool.

For the coconut pastry cream:

• Stir the cornstarch and ¼ cup sugar together in a large mixing bowl. Stir in half the can of coconut milk, then add the egg yolks and stir until

blended. Set aside.

• In a saucepan, combine the remaining coconut milk with the remaining ½ cup sugar and salt over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then remove pan from the heat.

• Temper the egg mixture by gradually whisking in one-third of the hot coconut milk mixture. Whisk in the remaining hot coconut milk, then return the entire mixture to the saucepan.

• Continue cooking over medium heat about 5 to 7 minutes, whisking constantly. (Do not stop whisking. The cream will change from a liquid to custard consistency in 1 minute. If you aren’t whisking, the mixture will turn into a chunky mess.) Whisk until the mixture comes to a boil and the whisk leaves a trail in the pastry cream or when the pastry cream coats the back of a spoon.

• Remove the saucepan from the heat and stir in the vanilla extract and butter. Place the saucepan in a shallow ice water bath and stir occasionally until the pastry cream has cooled, about 30 minutes. Transfer the pastry cream to a covered storage container and refrigerate until ready to use.

• In a mixing bowl, make whipped cream by whipping the heavy cream and powdered sugar until stiff peaks form. Refrigerate until ready to use.

• To assemble the cake: Carefully transfer one of the sponge cakes to a serving plate. Frost the cake with the chilled pastry cream, then place the second cake on top. Refrigerate 1 hour.

• Frost the cake with whipped cream and garnish with toasted coconut flakes.

buTTERMilK panCaKES

Courtesy of Winslow’s Home’s Wil Fernandez-Cruz

4 SERVINGS

4 eggs

4 cups buttermilk

3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

2 Tbsp. sugar

1 Tbsp. baking soda

2 tsp. kosher salt

1½ sticks (¾ cup) unsalted butter, melted

• Preheat a large skillet or griddle to medium heat.

• In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and buttermilk until incorporated.

• In a separate bowl, mix the flour, sugar, baking soda and salt. Add the buttermilk mixture, then whisk rapidly while drizzling the melted butter into the bowl. Continue whisking until a lumpy batter forms. Do not to overmix.

• Coat the hot griddle with pan spray. Pour 4 ounces of batter onto the griddle and cook 1½ to 2 minutes, until the underside is light brown. Flip and cook 2 more minutes. Repeat until all batter is used.

• Serve with fresh seasonal fruit, compote, lemon curd or maple syrup.

TRES lECHES CaKE

Courtesy of Milagro Modern Mexican’s Jason Tilford

1 8-INCH CAKE

3 cups cake flour

2½ tsp. baking powder

2 sticks (1 cup) butter

1¾ cups sugar

1½ tsp. vanilla extract

4 eggs

1 cup whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup sweetened condensed milk

1 12-oz. can evaporated milk

Whipped cream and fresh berries or berry syrup, to garnish

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8-by-8-inch cake pan.

• In a large bowl, sift together the cake flour and baking powder. Set aside.

• In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the butter on medium speed until creamed, about 1 minute. With the mixer running, slowly add the sugar until well combined. Add the vanilla and eggs, one at a time, until incorporated. Slowly add the flour mixture, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl. Add the milk and mix until the batter is smooth.

• Pour the batter into the cake pan and bake 25 minutes.

• Meanwhile, prepare the tres leches mix. In a large bowl, stir together the heavy cream, condensed milk and evaporated milk until well combined. Set aside.

• Remove the cake from the pan and place on a rack to cool. Once cool, place the cake on a serving plate. Poke several holes in the top with a skewer or fork. Pour the tres leches mix over the cake, allowing it to soak in.

• Serve with whipped cream and fresh berries or berry syrup.

Flying pig

Courtesy of Guerrilla Street Food’s Brian Hardesty

6 SERVINGS

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil

3 lbs. pork shoulder

6 whole garlic cloves

1 cup soy sauce

2 Tbsp. Sriracha

2 Tbsp. hoisin sauce

2 Tbsp. lime juice

4 cups jasmine rice Vinegar, for poaching 6 eggs

1 bunch green onions, chopped, to garnish

1 Tbsp. black sesame seeds, to garnish

• Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.

• In a large skillet, heat the vegetable oil over high heat. Once hot, sear the pork until brown, about 5 minutes per side.

• Add the garlic and soy sauce to a large oven-safe dish and place the pork on top. Cover with aluminum foil and braise in the oven until tender, about 8 hours.

• Using your hands or a fork, shred the meat and place it in a large bowl. Add the Sriracha, hoisin sauce and lime juice to the bowl. Toss to combine and set aside.

• Prepare the jasmine rice according to package instructions. Set aside.

• Poach the eggs: Bring a saucepot filled with water to a gentle simmer. Add a splash of vinegar and crack 1 egg at a time into the water. Poach 4 minutes, then remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and let dry on paper towels. Repeat with remaining eggs.

• To serve, divide the rice evenly among 6 plates. Top each with 6 to 8 ounces of pork and a poached egg. Garnish with green onions and sesame seeds.

STUFF TO DO: THIS MONTH

Fair st. louis

july 3 – 5 to 10:30 p.m., and july 4 and 5 – noon to 10:30 p.m., Forest park, st. Louis, 314.434.3434, fairsaintlouis.org

What’s to eat at this year’s Fair St. Louis, located in Forest Park? New food vendors include The Restaurant at The Cheshire, offering tenderloin sandwiches plus crabcake sandwiches; barbecue from Straub’s; and chicken speidini from Russo’s. Returning faves include: gyros by Teddy Tianov, kebabs by Dizon Foods, bourbon-glazed chicken-ona-stick by Bayou Seasoning and Catering, treats from Great Lakes Italian Ice, Nitro Hog barbecue and Scimeca’s Italian sausage. Of course, there’s also the usual festival fare of funnel cakes, corn dogs, burgers and hot dogs to celebrate the Fourth in all its glory.

it’s all about elk: chefs’ Field day at Hinkebein elk Farm

july 13 – 5 to 8 p.m., hinkebein elk Farm, ste. genevieve, 573.747.1000, Facebook: it’s All About elk

It’s indigenous to Missouri, it’s lean and it’s what’s for dinner. It’s farm-raised elk, and a group of accomplished chefs will cook it up under a tent at Hinkebein Elk Farm. Chefs Adam Lambay of Chaumette Winery, Rex Hale of The Restaurant at The Cheshire, Lou Rook III of Annie Gunn’s Smokehouse, Josh Galliano of The Libertine, Matt Bessler from Schlafly Bottleworks and DeWayne Schaaf of Celebrations will each whip up a festive elk supper with side dishes and desserts, wine pairings from Chaumette Vineyards and beer from Schlafly. Call or reserve your spot online via Eventbrite.

the Fall of Prohibition Happy Hour

july 22 – 5:30 to 7:30 p.m., Bixby’s, missouri history museum, 5700 Lindell Blvd., st. Louis, 314.361.7313, bixbysmohistory.com

In conjunction with the Missouri History Museum’s exhibit “American Spirits: The

Rise and Fall of Prohibition,” the museum’s own Bixby’s cafe hosts a themed happy hour. An impressive spread of locally inspired hors d’oeuvres and desserts includes citrus chicken skewers, yellow tomato gazpacho, shrimp Caesar salad, crudités with Mayfair dip and cupcakes inspired by classic cocktails. The eats are paired with cocktails featuring local Pinckney Bend spirits and with AnheuserBusch beers. The price includes admission to the exhibition. Reservations available by phone or online.

Food, Glorious Food

july 26 to sept. 11, Art st. Louis, 1223 pine st., 314.241.4810, artstlouis.org

Fuzzy fabric watermelon slices have been spotted ahead of the Food, Glorious Food art exhibition at Art St. Louis. Every artistic work on display - from drawings to sculptures – references food. This year’s impressive works include a detailed wooden sculpture of a wine bottle, glasses and a wheel of cheese; a tone poem featuring the colors pink and red in candies like Starburst, jelly beans and licorice; an adorable painting of the Oscar Meyer Wienermobile; and a somehow-menacing collage depicting the act of eating.

Food for Fines

july 1 to 31, all st. Louis pubic Library branches, 314.880.8759, slpl.org

Every July, the normally strict St. Louis Public allows us to pay off our late fines with canned goods. St. Louis Area Foodbank benefits from the donations, which can include canned meats, soup, chili, fruits and vegetables; peanut butter; baby formula; hot and cold cereals; rice; beans; powdered milk; and boxed macn-cheese. (No glass items, please.)

B y By R on Ke RMA n

overland

Farmers Market

saturdays through oct. 25 – 8

a.m. to 12:30 p.m., overland market Center, 2500 Woodson road, overland, 314.769.6360, overlandfarmersmarket.com

Recent vendors at the Overland Farmers Market have included Cat’s Gardens (herbs and growing mixes), Golden Acres Farm (produce), and Nagl Farms (organic, free-range meats and handmade soaps). Of course, there are also plenty of vendors selling crafts and other tchotchkes you just can’t live without.

sponsored events

saint louis art Museum outdoor Film series

Fridays from july 11 to Aug. 1 – 6 p.m., Art hill, 1 Fine Arts drive, Forest park, st. Louis, 314.655.5493, slam.org/filmseries

Looking for a fun, free Friday night? Check out SLAM’s Outdoor Film Series on Art Hill. The fun starts at 6 p.m. with food trucks like Chop Shop, Lulu’s Local Eatery, Seoul Taco and Vincent Van Doughnut. Then grab your spot on Art Hill for the free film at 9 p.m. The series kicks off with the 80s classic Ferris Bueller’s Day Off.

Food truck Friday

july 11 – 4 to 8 p.m., tower grove park, st. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com

Head to Tower Grove Park for Food Truck Friday, with more delicious options and features this year. Find sangria, a kids station to entertain junior truckies and more. This year, proceeds from beer sales benefit Lift for Life Gym. If you’re hungry and in a hurry, stop by the Sauce tent for a Speed Pass, which enables holders to use expedited lines for ordering. Come early and bring lawn chairs, blankets, kids and dogs.

clayton restaurant Week

july 14 to 20, participating restaurants, claytonrestaurantweek.com

With 13 restaurants onboard, including Bar Napoli, Oceano Bistro and Jimmy’s on the Park, you’ll have no shortage of options to

dine out during Clayton Restaurant Week. Just $25 per person buys a special threecourse dinner, so you can try old favorites and find new ones. “Extra Helping” donations of $5 or more benefit Operation Food Search.

Field to Fork

july 26 – 5 to 10 p.m., Bellecourt manor, 225 e. A st., Belleville, 618.566.4451 ext. 10, heartlandsconservancy.org

Learn about land conservation and the bounty of southwestern Illinois at HeartLands Conservancy’s Field to Fork dinner. The six-course meal features locally sourced ingredients prepared by six talented area chefs, including Meghan Boyer of Element, Josh Galliano of The Libertine and Jenny Cleveland from Cleveland-Heath. Register online.

cheshire celebrity chef series

Aug. 4 – 5:30 p.m., the restaurant at the Cheshire, 7036 Clayton Ave., st. Louis, 314.932.7818, restaurant-stl.com

Another guest chef graces The Restaurant in August. Chef Dean Fearing of Fearing’s Restaurant in Dallas and author of The Texas Food Bible, partners with The Restaurant’s Rex Hale to create a five-course meal paired with wine. Fearing will also meet with diners and sign copies of his cookbook. Tickets available online.

schlafly Farmers Market

Wednesdays through october – 4 to 7p.m., schlafly Bottleworks, 7260 southwest Ave, maplewood, 314.241.2337 ext. 2, schlaflyfarmersmarket.com

Wednesday evenings, part of the Schlafly Bottleworks parking lot transforms into a farmers market brimming with meat, eggs, produce, baked goods and more. Dozens of vendors are on rotation, including Cool Cow Cheese, Ozark Forest Mushrooms and Black Bear Bakery. New this season: cooking demos by local chefs every third Wednesday of the month.

Midtown Farmers Market

saturdays through november – 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., 6655 delmar Blvd., university City, 314.913.6632, Facebook: midtown Farmers market

The newest farmers market to hit the scene pops up in The Loop. Grab your tote bag each Saturday morning and stuff it with produce, meat, eggs, baked goods, pantry perks and more from local farmers and artisans. Recent vendors on rotation have included Biver Farms, Stringbean Coffee, Red Fox Baking and Baetje Farms.

WhAt i do

Qui tran

Qui Tran, 36, has become the face of cult favorite Mai Lee, but he’s quick to credit his mother, Lee Tran, with the restaurant’s success. “The restaurant wasn’t doing so well,” recalled Tran of Mai Lee’s early days as a Chinese restaurant. “So my mother said, ‘Let’s do Vietnamese food.’ She took the first step in ’85 when there was not a Vietnamese restaurant in sight.” While he reveres his mother, the cuisine of his native country and life in America, there are some things that St. Louis’ king of pho can’t embrace – like ramen burgers. Here, Tran tells all.

speak any English. My dad said he remembers circling NY. They sent us to STL.

Where did you grow up? The Hill. There’s my love for Italian food right there.

How old were you when you started working at Mai lee? Eight. I was translator, dishwasher. You grow up kind of fast. That’s why I don’t believe in child labor laws. Put ’em all to work! It builds character. I turned out OK, I think.

is your mom still the primary cook at Mai lee? Yeah, she’s the exec.

Mom and I finalize things. We do all the master sauces. If she’s not here, I’m doing it. People ask me, “Are you opening another one?” I’m like, “Not a Mai Lee.” It’s too difficult to replicate.

What’s the best-seller at Mai lee? I wanna say pho.

What’s one thing you wish people would understand about pho? It takes a long time to cook – 10 to 12 hours. They need time to caress it.

How many pounds of noodles does the restaurant cook in a week? For the rice noodles, we go through at least 300 pounds. And that’s a dry noodle when it weighs nothing.

there are more than 200 numbered items on the menu. do you know what dish corresponds to each number? Sometimes I’m like, “What is that?” I gotta look it up.

What would happen if you took off the numbers? There would be a lot more Vietnamese-speaking people in St. Louis.

How do you feel about ramen burgers? If I want ramen, I want ramen. If I want a burger, I want a good old American burger. Some trends are fine, but that one – I’m not interested.

Who’s the most famous person to walk through the door? We had (Jerry) Seinfeld in here. We’re not like Pappy’s where you get all the famous people. (Pappy’s owner) Mike Emerson gets Wolverine.

if you were to open another restaurant, what would it be? I’m working on a concept: a fun, little, casual noodle house.

What’s your timeline?

I’m taking my time – maybe a year and a half from now.

Why did your parents pick st. louis when they immigrated to the U. s .? When we arrived, they didn’t

What’s your advice for non-asians on using chopsticks? The bottom chopstick never moves. You have to brace it between your thumb and index finger. Sometimes people crisscross. Sometimes people clamp. Sometimes people spread it out. I crisscross. There’s no wrong way as long as the bottom one is the stable one. It’s like the pivot foot when you’re playing basketball.

do you play basketball? I’m Asian. We don’t play basketball.

do you play any sports? I’m a traditional martial artist. I have multiple black belts. In this high-stress environment, that’s my outlet. People are always like, “Why do you smile so much at work?” I say, “Well, because I get to punch the bag at night.”

– Ligaya Figueras

Mike Emerson of Pappy's Smokehouse, your favorite barbecue

favo R ite new R estau R ant: the libertine

The LiberTine 7927 Forsyth Blvd, Clayton, 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com

With each seasonal iteration of The Libertine’s trademark entree Three LiTTLe Birds, executive chef Josh Galliano and executive sous chef Josh Poletti exhibit the classic elegance of fowl, whimsically reinvented and roasted to perfection. Chicken, quail and Cornish hen are deboned, brined, stacked in layers and finally topped with morsels of dark meat. The succulent casserole is gently CVapped for several hours, which caramelizes the crispy skin before the Three Little Birds are laid to rest upon a bed of tangy, oldschool Carolina Gold rice middlins, cooked with milk and pecorino. The ensemble is finished with a saute of local, seasonal vegetables – this spring, it was scharf Farm’s asparagus and Andy Ayers’ snow peas doused in spring ramp butter sauce. The end product is a testament to Galliano’s and Poletti’s ability to elevate mere chicken and rice to first-rate distinction. – Anne Marie Lodholz

Just what does it take to deliver the internationally acclaimed Memphis-style (with a St. Louis twist) ribs, pulled pork and brisket to the daily throngs at Pappy’s Smokehouse? Owner Mike Emerson lays it all out, by the numbers. – Sara Graham

5

smokers: Walter, Big Ron and LeRoy, plus two new ones, Waino and Porkey LaFarge

6

360,000

customers shook hands with Emerson and pretty ladies hugged him (He aims to beat that number this year).

14,000

27,000 Last year

bottles of Fitz’s root beer sold last year

14 to 18

10,400 years in business

hours to slow smoke pork over apple or cherry wood

6 to 8 gallons of barbecue sauce produced last year

producers from Missouri, Illinois and Iowa supply the meat

30

minutes average wait time in line

60 employees keeping Pappy’s running daily

4,000 pounds of sweet potato fries made last year

82,650 pounds of pork smoked daily

Pappy’s Smokehouse 3106 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.535.4340, pappyssmokehouse.com

Meet some of the Broadway Oyster Bar staff: From left, Casey Donovan, Donna Hornachek, Josh Chartrand, Tory Johnson, Blair Govero, Mike Bridgeman, Brett Johnson, Bobby King, Kathryn Pilch, Jenny Hammond, Stefanie Ricci, Michelle Vessells, Brad Zipprich

Why did readers vote Broadway Oyster Bar the Best Cajun/ Creole restaurant in St. Louis for the 12th year running?

Because the menu is packed with the tastiest oysters, crawfish, crab legs and alligator north of NOLA. We sat down with owner John Johnson and his staff to find out what it’s like to work in a place that’s impossible to define with customers who defy stereotyping. As the seasoned, snarky waitstaff tells it, they love each other almost as much as they love the food, and they can always find something to laugh about, even after a 15-hour shift. Just don’t ask for separate checks. – Kellie Hynes

What dishes do you snarf on back in the kitchen?

The alligator sausage and shrimp cheesecakes, crawfish enchiladas, Crawfish Mona.

– Mike Bridgeman

What’s it like to work during a Cardinals day game?

You get to see the beginning and then (the fans) come back, and sometimes they take the same table. i’ll think, Oh my gosh, you were so different earlier. You did a lot of drinking in three hours!

– Michelle Vessells

Fill in the blank. Whatever you do, don’t order the: Mozzarella sticks and toasted ravioli. We don’t have that stuff.

– Kathryn Pilch

What’s the strangest thing you’ve ever seen a customer do?

eat a whole bucket of boiled crawfish. – John Johnson

Why is that strange? he ate the whole thing. seriously, the whole bucket. shells, heads and all.

– Stephanie Ricci

Tell me a musician story. d ick dale, he’s the King of s urf Guitar … he was playing with a cordless guitar. All of the sudden – (he’s) an older guy – he jumped down off the stage, walked through the crowd, all the way out the front door. everyone was like, ‘'Where’d he go?" he went around the corner, over to the White Castle, and walked through the drive-thru. h is

whole band is still playing on stage. The car that’s getting served pulls away and he walks up, with his guitar, playing, and sticks his head in the window. he just felt like going over and saying hi. he never stopped playing. Obviously everyone went crazy. – Johnson

When is it hard to be a server here?

When you try to (serve) the food, and no one responds to you. You ask, “Who had the jambalaya?” and nobody knows what they ordered. – Bridgeman

What do you do when someone orders something right before the kitchen closes?

We smile, and serve them, and cross our fingers they don’t order the crab legs. Crab legs take a long time to eat. i n the last 30 minutes, you just know you’re going to get two orders of crab legs. And i ’m like, " if you’re going to wait for one order of crab legs, might as well wait for two." – Vessells

What do you wish people knew about Broadway Oyster Bar?

We don’t take separate checks. Why? imagine having a big party at your house, 200 people, and trying to keep track of what everybody ate and drank. it’s the same thing here. People get upset, but they don’t realize. This ain’t Tony’s, where people come and sit in their seat. That would be way easier. – Johnson

favo R ite C hef ed heath

When you’re one of the area’s most popular chefs, everyone wants a word with you. We yanked Ed Heath out of the Cleveland-Heath kitchen for 1 minute to pepper him with questions about his pasture-to-plate restaurant in Edwardsville, then let him get back to making more slinger-like lomo saltado and Japanese pancakes . – Ligaya Figueras

What dish on the Cleveland-Heath menu are you most excited about? The duck breast with the German potato salad. english peas, bacon … oh my God, it’s so good.

What menu items surprise you with their popularity? For the breakfast menu, the lomo (saltado). it’s even more popular than our biscuits and gravy. For the starter menu, the okonomiyaki. We get more comments about that than anything else on our menu. The popularity is almost shocking.

What dish can you not take off the menu? The BLT.

Are you working with any new farmers or food producers? Jenna Pohl. she owns Midwest Lamb. she’s all-natural in her feed, but these lambs are huge. They dress out at 90 to 100 pounds. We wonder if we should call them mutton. They are massive, and they are delicious.

What’s the biggest thing you learned since opening Cleveland-Heath in 2011? staffing –

learning how to be an appropriate manager of people, and keep them happy and wanting to come back every day, and hungry so they want to keep learning on their own. We have a killer staff, but it’s been the most challenging thing.

What music do you listen to in the kitchen? i hate really heavy metal, so we stick with contemporary rock ’n’ roll, Willie Nelson, good old country, hank Williams, Bob dylan, some old-school rap, a ton of old blues. it’s really who gets ahold of the radio.

What are your typical hours at the restaurant? i am there Tuesday through saturday, 15-plus hours each day.

How do you keep up your energy? After work, i either jog or go to a 24-hour gym. if i didn’t exercise six or seven days a week for a minimum of an hour, i couldn’t keep up with it.

Cleveland-heath

106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com

favo R ite doughnut shop: strange donuts

The guys at Strange Donuts do two things very well: make weird, wonderful doughnuts in oddball combinations (Pig liver? Crab meat? Why not?), and herald the arrival of these limited-edition “dones” online. Local chefs have created signature “Strangers,” and the shop’s own “Creations” have wowed Strange Donuts’ rabid followers on Instagram – all 5,300 and counting. These nine dones are our picks for the strangest of the strange. – Catherine Klene

Strange donuts, 2709 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.932.5851, strangedonuts.com

1. The Takeout Soy sauce and chicken stock cake doughnut topped with sweet and sour sauce, chow mein and scallions | 2. The Mai Pho King Done A Mai Lee Stranger with a beef pho consomme filling, hoisin-Sriracha glaze, and carrot, basil and peanut topping | 3. Bad to the Done A Bogart’s Stranger topped with pulled ribs, apricot glaze and Pineapple Express barbecue sauce | 4. The Stewed STL Done A Schlafly Stranger made with coffee stout chocolate icing, sea salt popcorn and a bourbon-caramel drizzle | 5. Finding Nori Nori seaweed doughnut with sesame oil and a caramel glaze, topped with toasted sesame seeds | 6. The Slinger A toasted doughnut topped with an egg patty, chili con carne, Monterey Jack cheese and Billy Goat chips | 7. The Colcanndone A baked potato and sauteed kale yeast doughnut with a Jameson-infused glaze, sprinkled with Irish cheddar cheese | 8. The Strange Hog Burger A Quincy Street Bistro Stranger featuring a Hog Burger patty inside a doughnut topped with maple-caramelized onion glaze and house-made pimento cheese spread | 9. The Donito A Niche Stranger with lemon-maple custard, bonito glaze, roasted shiitake mushrooms, bonito flakes and fleur del sel

favo R ite R estau R ant sidney street cafe

Kevin Nashan took over Sidney Street Cafe in 2003. Here, he reflects on the lessons he’s learned running the beloved Benton Park restaurant for the past decade. – Meera Nagarajan

The greatest lesson Sidney Street Cafe has taught me? Listening – to my wife, my brother, back of the house, front of the house, customers. It helps you grow. It makes you better.

The first time we put foie gras on the menu, we were so excited and nobody ordered it. Another time, we did a mackerel dish and we loved it but customers didn’t get it. A year later? Customers wanted it. Sometimes they’re ready, and sometimes they’re not. You have to listen.

Honestly, it’s harder to take over a restaurant because the expectations are so high. You know what’s worked and what hasn’t. You just don’t know if you should change anything … It takes time and a little courage.

When we took over Sidney Street, we were under a microscope, but we knew people would show up because there was an existing clientele. With Peacemaker (Nashan’s new restaurant to open in the coming weeks), we get to be creative instantly with the food. There’s no model to follow.

You always want to re-polish. Before I make a vichyssoise, I research it because there’s always room for improvement. You want to respect your craft and the way you do that is by doing your homework.

your favorite places to eat

The Breakfast Wagyu Burger at Blueberry Hill, voted favorite place to get a burger

Favorite New Restaurant

The LiberTine

7927 Forsyth Blvd, Clayton, 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com

2nd: Planter’s house

3rd: element and Mission Taco Joint (tie)

Honorable Mention: Juniper

Favorite Restaurant

Sidney STreeT Cafe

2000 sidney st., st. Louis, 314.771.5777, sidneystreetcafe.com

2nd: Pastaria

3rd: Pappy’s smokehouse

Honorable Mention: Mai Lee

Favorite Chef

ed heaTh, CLeveLand-heaTh

2nd: Gerard Craft, Niche family of restaurants

3rd: Kevin Nashan, sidney street Cafe and Ben Poremba, elaia and Olio (tie)

Honorable Mention: Josh Galliano, The Libertine

Favorite Barbecue

PaPPy’S SmokehouSe

3106 Olive st., st. Louis, 314.535.4340, pappyssmokehouse.com

2nd: Bogart’s smokehouse

3rd: sugarfire smoke house

Honorable Mention: The shaved duck

Favorite Brunch

haLf & haLf

8133 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719, halfandhalfstl.com

2nd: Brasserie by Niche

3rd: rooster

Honorable Mention: Café Osage

Favorite Buffet evereST Café & bar

4145 Manchester Ave., st. Louis, 314.531.4800, everestcafeandbar.com

2nd: house of india

3rd: Cielo restaurant and Bar

Honorable Mention: The emperor’s Palace

Favorite Burger bLueberry hiLL

6504 delmar Blvd., University City, 314.727.4444, blueberryhill.com

2nd: Five star Burgers

3rd: O’Connell’s Pub

Honorable Mention: The dam

Favorite Cheap Eats

faST eddie’S bon air

1530 e. 4th st., Alton, 618.462.5532, fasteddiesbonair.com

2nd: Mission Taco Joint

3rd: southwest diner

Honorable Mention: seoul Taco

Favorite Cupcake

The CuP

Various locations, cravethecup.com

2nd: Jilly’s Cupcake Bar & Café

3rd: The sweet divine

Honorable Mention: sarah’s Cake shop

Favorite Deli

bLueS CiTy deLi

2438 McNair Ave., st. Louis, 314.773.8225, bluescitydeli.com

2nd: Pickles deli

3rd: Mom’s deli

Honorable Mention: Gioia’s deli

Favorite Desserts

Cyrano’S Cafe

603 e. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.3232, cyranos.com

2nd: Baileys’ Chocolate Bar

3rd: element

Honorable Mention: The Fountain On Locust

Favorite Food Truck

GuerriLLa STreeT food

314.529.1328, guerillastreetfood.com

2nd: seoul Taco

3rd: Lulu’s Local eatery

Honorable Mention: Cha Cha Chow

Favorite Frozen Dessert

Ted dreweS frozen CuSTard

6726 Chippewa st., st. Louis, 314.481.2652 and 4224 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.352.7376, teddrewes.com

2nd: Bobby’s Frozen Custard

3rd: serendipity homemade ice Cream

Honorable Mention: Annie’s Frozen Custard

Favorite Gluten Free new day GLuTen free 15622 Manchester road, ellisville, Missouri, 636.527.5000, newdayglutenfree.com

2nd: PW Pizza

3rd: Whisk: A sustainable Bakeshop

Honorable Mention: Frida’s

Favorite Late Night Eats

CiTy diner

3139 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.772.6100, citydinerstl.com

2nd: The dam

3rd: Mission Taco Joint

Honorable Mention: Uncle Bill’s Pancake & dinner house

Favorite Pizza

Pi Pizzeria

Various locations, restaurantpi.com

2nd: dewey’s Pizza

3rd: Mad Tomato

Honorable Mentions: The Good Pie and Peel Wood Fired Pizza (tie)

Favorite Patio

John d. mCGurk’S

iriSh Pub & Garden

1200 russell Blvd., st. Louis, 314.776.8309, mcgurks.com

2nd: Vin de set

3rd: Billy G’s Kirkwood and Molly’s in soulard (tie)

Honorable Mention: sasha’s on shaw

Favorite Spot to Impress Out-of-towners

oLio 1634 Tower Grove Ave., st. Louis, 314.932.1088, oliostl.com

2nd: Pastaria

3rd: Blueberry hill

Honorable Mention: Pappy’s smokehouse

Favorite Seafood farmhauS

3257 ivanhoe Ave., st. Louis, 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com

2nd: deMun Oyster Bar

3rd: Tavern Kitchen & Bar

Honorable Mention: Oceano Bistro

Favorite American, nouveau niChe

7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com

2nd: sidney street Cafe

3rd: elaia

Honorable Mention: Farmhaus and Five Bistro (tie)

Favorite American, traditional annie Gunn’S

16806 Chesterfield Airport road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684, smokehousemarket.com

2nd: The restaurant at The Cheshire

3rd: eleven eleven Mississippi and harvest (closed) (tie)

Honorable Mention: herbie’s Vintage 72

Favorite Cajun/Creole broadway oySTer bar

736 s. Broadway, st. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com

2nd: riverbend restaurant & Bar

3rd: Boogaloo

Honorable Mention: Gulf shores restaurant & Grill

Favorite Chinese Lu Lu Seafood & dim Sum 8224 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.997.3108, luluseafoodrestaurant.com

2nd: Wang Gang Asian eats

3rd: Yen Ching

Honorable Mention: hiro Asian Kitchen

Favorite Eastern European/ Bosnian

GrbiC reSTauranT & banqueT haLL

4071 Keokuk st., st. Louis, 314.772.3100, grbicrestaurant.com

2nd: Bosna Gold

3rd: Aya sofia

Honorable Mention: handleBar

Favorite English/Irish/Scottish

The SCoTTiSh armS

8 s. sarah st.,

st. Louis, 314.535.0551, thescottisharms.com

2nd: dressel’s Public house and The dubliner (tie)

3rd: John d. McGurk’s irish Pub

Honorable Mention: Llywelyn’s Pub

Favorite French braSSerie by niChe

4580 Laclede Ave., st. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com

2nd: Atlas restaurant

3rd: Cafe Provencal and stone soup Cottage (tie)

Honorable Mention: Bar Les Frères

Favorite German SChneiThorST’S reSTauranT & bar

1600 s. Lindbergh Blvd., Ladue, 314.993.4100, schneithorsts.com

2nd: dreamland Palace

3rd: roemer Topf restaurant

Honorable Mention: Bevo Mill

Favorite Greek oLymPia kebob houSe and Taverna

1543 McCausland Ave., st. Louis, 314.781.1299, olympiakebobandtaverna.com

2nd: Momos

3rd: Gyro house

Honorable Mention: spiro’s restaurant

Favorite Indian houSe of india

8501 delmar Blvd., University City, 314.567.6850, hoistl.com

2nd: rasoi

3rd: Taj Palace Cuisine of india

Honorable Mention: haveli

Favorite Italian PaSTaria

7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, pastariastl.com

2nd: Trattoria Marcella and Zia’s (tie)

3rd: Cunetto house of Pasta and Paul Manno’s Cafe (tie)

Honorable Mention: Acero

Favorite Japanese waSabi SuShi bar

Various locations, wasabisushibars.com

2nd: Tani sushi Bistro

3rd: Café Mochi and Kampai sushi Bar (tie)

Honorable Mention: Chop shop

Favorite Korean orienTaL SPoon

229 sanatorium, edwardsville, 618.655.9633, orientalspoon.net

2nd: seoul Taco

3rd: seoul Garden Korean restaurant

Honorable Mention: Asian Kitchen Korean Cuisine

Favorite Mexican Chava’S mexiCan reSTauranT

925 Geyer Ave., st. Louis, 314.241.5503, chavasmexican.com, and miSSion TaCo JoinT 6235 delmar Blvd., st. Louis, 314.932.5430, missiontacostl.com (tie)

2nd: La Vallesana

3rd: Taqueria el Bronco Honorable Mention: Mi ranchito

Favorite Middle Eastern ranouSh 6501 delmar Blvd., University City, 314.726.6874 and 200 N. Kirkwood road, Kirkwood, 314.984.8899, ranoush.com

2nd: Cafe Natasha’s 3rd: Aya sofia

Honorable Mention: The Vine Mediterranean Café and Market

Favorite Soul/Southern SweeTie Pie’S

4270 Manchester Ave., st. Louis, 314.371.0304 and 3643 delmar Blvd., st. Louis, 314.371.0304, sweetiepieskitchen.com

2nd: Juniper

3rd: Quincy street Bistro Honorable Mention: The Kitchen sink

Favorite South American/Pan-Latin manGo Peruvian CuiSine 1101 Lucas Ave., st. Louis, 314.621.9993, mangoperu.com

2nd: Fritanga Nicaraguan Cuisine

3rd: Yemanja Brasil restaurante

Honorable Mention: Maya Cafe

Favorite Spanish modeSTo

5257 shaw Ave., st. Louis, 314.772.8272, modestotapas.com

2nd: Barcelona Tapas restaurant

3rd: Guido’s Pizzeria & Tapas

Honorable Mention: One 19 North Tapas and Wine Bar

Favorite Steak TuCker’S PLaCe

Various locations, tuckersplacestl.com

2nd: ruth’s Chris steak house

3rd: Citizen Kane’s steak house Honorable Mention: 801 Chophouse and The Tenderloin room (tie)

Favorite Thai kinG & i reSTauranT

3157 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.771.1777, kingandistl.com

2nd: sen Thai Asian Bistro

3rd: Basil spice Thai Cuisine Honorable Mention: Thai Cafe

Favorite Vegetarian Tree houSe reSTauranT

3177 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.696.2100, treehousestl.com

2nd: Frida’s deli

3rd: PuraVegan Cafe & Yoga and sacred Grounds Cafe (tie) Honorable Mention: Lulu’s Local eatery

Favorite Vietnamese mai Lee

8396 Musick Memorial dr., Brentwood, 314.645.2835, maileerestaurant.com

2nd: Pho Grand

3rd: Banh Mi so #1 Honorable Mention: Mi Linh

Favorite Waitstaff

Tony’S

410 Market st., st. Louis, 314.231.7007, tonysstlouis.com

2nd: Niche

3rd: The restaurant at The Cheshire Honorable Mention: Cardwell’s at the Plaza

John Fausz, bar manager at Olio, mixes drinks with a cultural and historical ken, returning to the classic components of a respectable cocktail: gin, bitters and vermouth. Over the marble bartop at Olio, where Fausz coaches journeyman cocktail enthusiasts, he’ll drop little A-grade bits of spirit wisdom on you: rye is better for mixing, bourbon for drinking. Good ingredients and delivery always outclass theatrics. And with a little finesse,

herbal and mineral flavors become the antidote to years of oversugared, overmixed drinks.

“(Olio) is so Old World in spirit,” Fausz said. The bar menu underscores that belief, from the acidic, lambic-like ramos de Valle cider from spain to the classic Adonis cocktail (sherry, sweet vermouth, orange bitters) to pacharán, a Basque liqueur made from sloeberries that dates

to the Middle Ages. Also a certified sommelier, Fausz has dialed in on a roster of unusual, rustic wines, like the Grosjean Gamay, a spicy Beaujolais-esque italian. There is something atypical, historical, even a little magical at work here. That’s the Old World, transmuted over.

Above all, Fausz is a dreamer, seeing the cocktail movement in st. Louis for what it can continue to be: a mechanism for

revitalization and community-building. Our readers are noticing – the bartenders and bar programs they gave nods to this year are singular examples of mighty imaginations, forward-thinking ones, mixing their vision with a jiggerful of st. Louis’ past. Add ice. shake. – Garrett Faulkner

olio 1634

Where to explo R e next favorite wineri e s 5

by garrett faulkner, ligaya figueras and catherine klene illustration by vidhya nagarajan

The arithmetic seems simple: grow the grapes, press them, ferment and bottle the result. Set up a few patio tables. Print some brochures. Whip up snacks. Build it, and they will come. But the vintner’s task list doesn’t end at making world-class wine. Crafting the experience – that artful combination of rustic tranquility and urbane getaway – is what sets the standouts apart from the simply satisfactory. We raise our glasses to these five wineries who, among more than 100 across Missouri, have earned the praise of our readers for their ability to put a tall pour of the country inside of a bottle. So tear out (just this once) the map of our wine tour and pop it in the glove box – you’ve got driving to do.

Chandler hill Vineyards

Chandler Hill’s first press was only in 2011, but its winemaking has been as fecund as the gentle foothills on which it sits. Winemaker and vineyard manager Tom Murphy has wasted no time establishing an impressive catalog of whites, reds and even a port here and there. Native Missouri varietals stand beside heavy-hitters imported from the West Coast, some even mingling inside the barrel, like the winery’s bold Norton-cabernet, slated to debut this summer. The vineyard’s whites shine the most, though, especially the dry vignoles, which blooms with a strong grapefruit nose, tart palate and sweet finish.

You’d be remiss in skipping over the restaurant menu. The King Buck Burger, brushed with house-made barbecue sauce, goes down well with the tannic, refined 2012 merlot. Order an artisan cheese plate – bedecked with bleu cheese, cheddar and brie – and conclude on a decadent note with Murph’s Vignoles White Port, an ambrosial vineyard specialty.

596 Defiance Road, Defiance, 636.798.2675, chandlerhillvineyards.com, Tues. to Thurs. – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Fri. to Mon. – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; winter hours vary

Chaumette Vineyards & Winery

The 2013 unoaked chardonel is one excuse to head to Chaumette this summer, but there are plenty more reasons why this Ste. Genevieve winery is a crowd pleaser. For $5 you can taste six of the winery’s 12 wines in the tasting room. Choose a bottle of your favorite and enjoy it in the airconditioned dining room, or take it to the patio or covered veranda. Chaumette permits you to bring in your picnic spread, but try Grapevine Grill. The restaurant showcases uber-local ingredients prepared by executive chef Adam Lambay. Come on a Thursday or Sunday for family-style dining.

A visit to Chaumette isn’t complete without walking the picturesque, hilly grounds. Check out St. Vincent’s in-the-Vineyard chapel at the top of the hill, then saunter down to the barn for a short trail hike to neighbor winery-microbrewery Charleville. If hiking, eating and drinking wine tires you out, Chaumette has you covered with a spa that offers everything: soothing facials and massages, manis, pedis and even an outdoor pool. Best of all, you don’t have to make it a day trip. Stay overnight in one of the posh villas for a top-flight getaway that won’t require a flight to Napa Valley.

24345 State Route WW, Ste. Genevieve, 573.747.1000, chaumette.com, Wed. to Sun. – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

montelle Winery

Augusta Winery may dominate the valley, but its younger sibling rules the mountain above. Montelle Winery, perched 400 feet above the Missouri River on the Osage Ridge, was purchased by Augusta’s Tony Kooyumjian in 1998. But the wines it produces are its own, and there are plenty.

Step up to Montelle’s bar and enjoy complimentary tastings of nearly 20 different wines, such as the not-so-sweet vignoles or La Rosee, which sees its return to the Montelle portfolio this summer. Sweeter palates can opt for the best-selling Himmelswein, with notes of crisp green apple. Looking for something a bit stronger? Be bold and ask for a glass of the distilled spirits, potent yet curiously fruity sippers that pack a wallop.

Once you’ve found your favorite, head over to the counter at the Klondike Cafe, where madeto-order sandwiches, salads, wraps and pizzas are available. If you really want to see Montelle at its best, make reservations for a three-course Sunset Dinner on Friday or Saturday night. There’s no better view than can be found on Montelle’s deck, sharing a bottle while the sinking sun sets Missouri wine country aglow for miles.

201 Montelle Drive, Augusta, 636.228.4464, montelle.com, Mon. to Thurs. – 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Fri. – 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sat. – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sun. – 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; winter hours vary

mount Pleasant estates

When you want a lesson in Missouri wine history, Mount Pleasant Estates is the place to start. It’s the oldest winery in Augusta and the first designated wine appellation in the U.S. Moreover, the winery has been in the hands of only two families since it was established in 1859, shut down during Prohibition and resurrected by the Dressel family in 1967.

Among the five wines to include in your $6 tasting, opt for the Villagio, an off-dry white fragrant with peaches. While the Norton has long been a Mount Pleasant stalwart, we enjoyed the Beaujolais-like St. Vincent, added to the winery’s portfolio just last year.

Hungry? The winery doesn’t permit outside food on the property, but you can sup and sip on a deck overlooking the Missouri River Valley at its eatery, Appellation Café. The mesquite-smoked turkey melt, served with a spunky, loose-set red pepper marmalade, is stellar. Before you head out, grab a bottle of Tawny port, a great hostess gift to express some Made-in-MO pride.

5634 High St., Augusta, 636.482.9463, mountpleasant.com, Daily – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; winter hours vary

noboleis Vineyards

A young arrival among Missouri wineries, familyowned Noboleis is nestled on 84 acres of rolling hills in Augusta. Its tasting program is only in its fourth year, but Noboleis is the place to go when you’re looking for a casual wine session. Samples are free, so sip away to find your favorite among its 16-strong wine portfolio. Off-dry red Steepleview and semi-sweet vignoles are the best-sellers, but we’re partial to the oaky, buttery, double-fermented Baril de Blanc, made in the style of a chardonnay.

Outside food is permitted, but in case you didn’t pack a picnic, order a cheese and salume platter, a goat cheese Margherita pizza or a roast beef panini with horseradish brie served aside a berrystudded kale salad. Spend the afternoon under the shade of a large, airy tent while you admire the vineyard and the ancient mulberry tree that lends its silhouette to every Noboleis bottle label.

100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, 636.482.4500, noboleisvineyards.com, Sun. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sat. – 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.; winter hours vary

your favorite places to drink

Favorite Bartender

Ted kiLGore, PLanTer’S houSe

1000 Mississippi Ave., st. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

2nd: John Fausz, Olio

3rd: Tony saputo, (formerly) eclipse restaurant

Honorable Mention: Travis Garner, Planter’s house

Favorite Bar

PLanTer’S houSe

1000 Mississippi Ave., st. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

2nd: Taste

3rd: Brennan’s and The royale (tie)

Honorable Mention: Three sixty rooftop

Favorite Beer List

GLobaL brew TaP houSe & LounGe

112 s. Buchanan st., edwardsville, 618.307.5858 and 455 regency Park, O’Fallon, illinois, 618.632.1818, globalbrewtaps.com

2nd: international Tap house

3rd: Bridge Tap house & Wine Bar and Tripel (closed) (tie)

Honorable Mention: 21st street Brewer’s Bar

Favorite Brewery

SChLafLy

2100 Locust st., st. Louis and 7260 southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com

2nd: Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

3rd: 4 hands Brewing Co. and The Civil Life Brewery Co. (tie)

Honorable Mention: Perennial Artisan Ales

Favorite Cocktails

TaSTe

4584 Laclede Ave., st. Louis, 314.361.1200, tastebarstl.com

2nd: Planter’s house

3rd: eclipse restaurant

Honorable Mention: Blood & sand

Favorite Coffee Shop SumP Coffee

3700 s. Jefferson Ave., st. Louis, 917.412.5670, sumpcoffee.com

2nd: Kaldi’s Coffee

3rd: sacred Grounds Cafe

Honorable Mention: The Mud house and Park Avenue Coffee (tie)

Favorite Happy Hour Café moChi

3221 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.773.5000, cafemochistl.com

2nd: Water street

3rd: Milagro Modern Mexican Honorable Mention: Frazer’s restaurant and Lounge

Favorite Sports Bar LeSTer’S

Various locations, lestersrestaurant.com

2nd: Mike shannon’s steaks and seafood and The Post sports Bar & Grill (tie)

3rd: Amsterdam Tavern Honorable Mention: Friendly’s sports Bar & Grill

Favorite Wine Bar robuST wine bar

Various locations, robustwinebar.com

2nd: sasha’s on shaw

3rd: 33 Wine shop & Tasting Bar and Olio (tie)

Honorable Mention: Balaban’s Wine and Tapas Bar

Favorite Winery

ChandLer hiLL vineyardS

596 defiance road, defiance, Missouri, 636.798.2675, chandlerhillvineyards.com

2nd: Chaumette Vineyards and Winery

3rd: Montelle Winery

Honorable Mention: Mount Pleasant Winery and Noboleis Vineyards (tie)

your favorite places to shop

Favorite Butcher Shop

kenriCk’S meaTS & CaTerinG

4324 Weber road, st. Louis, 314.631.2440, kenricks.com

2nd: straub’s

3rd: Baumann’s Fine Meats and G&W Bavarian style sausage (tie)

Honorable Mention: hanlen’s Fine Meats & Catering

Favorite Cakes/Pastries

La PaTiSSerie ChouqueTTe

1626 Tower Grove Ave., st. Louis, 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com

2nd: Brevan’s Patisserie

3rd: Piccione Pastry

Honorable Mention: Pint size Bakery & Coffee

Favorite Candy Shop

Crown Candy kiTChen

1401 st. Louis Ave., st. Louis, 314.621.9650, crowncandykitchen.net

2nd: Kakao Chocolate

3rd: how sweet is This (formerly Oh Lolli Lolli) and Merb’s Candies (tie)

Honorable Mention: Miss M’s Candy Boutique

Favorite Caterer

buTLer’S PanTry

1414 Park Ave., st. Louis, 314.664.7680, butlerspantry.com

2nd: hollyberry Catering

3rd: Catering st. Louis

Honorable Mention: Kenrick’s Meats & Catering

Favorite Chocolate Shop kakao ChoCoLaTe

7272 Manchester road, Maplewood, 314.645.4446 and 2301 s. Jefferson Ave., st. Louis, 314.771.2310, kakaochocolate.com

2nd: Bissinger’s handcrafted Chocolatier

3rd: Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Co.

Honorable mention: rick Jordan Chocolatier

Favorite Coffee Roaster kaLdi’S Coffee

Various locations, kaldiscoffee.com

2nd: sump Coffee

3rd: Chauvin Coffee Company and Kuva Coffee roasters (tie)

Honorable Mention: Blueprint Coffee

Favorite Cooking Class dierberGS

Various locations, dierbergs.com/school

2nd: Kitchen Conservatory 3rd: schnucks

Honorable Mention: Pie Oh My!

Favorite Doughnut Shop

STranGe donuTS

2709 sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.932.5851, strangedonuts.tumblr.com

2nd: World’s Fair doughnuts

3rd: donut drive-in

Honorable Mention: Vincent Van doughnut

Favorite Farmers Market hiSToriC SouLard

farmerS markeT

730 Carroll st., st. Louis, 314.622.4180, soulardmarket.com

2nd: The Land of Goshen Community Market and Tower Grove Farmers Market (tie)

3rd: schlafly Farmers Market

Honorable Mention: Kirkwood Farmers Market

Favorite Grocery Store dierberGS

Various locations, dierbergs.com

2nd: Trader Joe’s

3rd: Fields Foods

Honorable Mention: straub’s

Favorite Kitchenware Store

Sur La TabLe

295 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.993.0566, surlatable.com

2nd: Chef’s shoppe

3rd: Williams-sonoma

Honorable Mention: Cornucopia

Favorite Liquor Store

randaLL’S wineS and SPiriTS

Various locations, shoprandalls.com

2nd: Lukas Liquor superstore

3rd: Friar Tuck

Honorable Mention: The Wine and Cheese Place

Favorite Local Bread

ComPanion

8143 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.352.4770, companionstl.com

2nd: 222 Artisan Bakery

3rd: Black Bear Bakery

Honorable Mention: Great harvest Bread Co.

Favorite Specialty Food Shop

GLobaL foodS markeT

421 N. Kirkwood road, Kirkwood, 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket.com and Jay inTernaTionaL foodS

3172 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.772.9393, Facebook: Jay international Foods

2nd: extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation

3rd: salume Beddu

Honorable Mention: Green earth Grocery

Favorite Wine Shop

The wine and CheeSe PLaCe

Various locations, wineandcheeseplace.com

2nd: Parker’s Table and The Wine Merchant (tie)

3rd: Bin 51 Wine & spirits

Honorable Mention: starrs

Sweet treats from La Patisserie Chouquette, voted favorite place to shop for cakes and pastries

photo by elizabeth jo C hum