Sauce Magazine // June 2019

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ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY // SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM // FREE, JUNE 2019 YOUR FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANT, P. 41 YOUR FAVORITE COCKTAILS, P. 14 YOUR FAVORITE BURGER, P. 42
chef
loryn
p. 17 READERS' CHOICE
balkan treat box
and co-owner
nalic,
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Cheetos or Doritos?

Cheetos are life. I don’t even like Doritos.

JUNE 2019 • VOLUME 19, ISSUE 6

PUBLISHER

ART DIRECTOR

MANAGING EDITOR

MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL STAFF WRITERS

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITORS

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PROOFREADER

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Allyson Mace

Meera Nagarajan

Heather Hughes

Catherine Klene

Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell

Lauren Healey

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

I don’t think it’s fair to decide. It’s Sophie’s Choice. I like both.

If it’s puffs, Cheetos. If it’s not puffs, Doritos.

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All contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright ©2001-2019 by Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group, LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Any kind of Cheeto over any kind of

Lauren Healey, Catherine Klene

Michelle Volansky

Megan Gilmore

Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Virginia Harold, Elizabeth Jochum, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky

Vidhya Nagarajan

Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Ryan Griffin, Justin Harris, Lauren Healey, Heather Hughes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Adam Rothbarth, Matt Sorrell, Darian Stevenson, Stephanie Zeilenga

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Amy Hyde

James Boeckmann, Darian Stevenson

whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

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EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

4 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com June 2019 SAUCE MAGAZINE subscriptions are available for home delivery NAME STREET ADDRESS CITY STATE ZIP SEND
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June 2019 PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON JUNE 2019 contents 25 NEW AND NOTABLE Savage Restaurant by michael renner 28 LUNCH RUSH Lola Jean's Giveback Cafe by matt berkley 31 NIGHTLIFE Wellspent Brewing Co. by stephanie zeilenga 11 EAT THIS Old-fashioned donut at Old Town Donuts by meera nagarajan 14 ELIXIR Planter's House Rules by matt sorrell 17 CHEF TOUR Loryn Nalic of Balkan Treat Box by matt sorrell 21 A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake by glenn bardgett, justin harris, ryan griffin and ted and jamie kilgore editors' picks reviews features 34 THE LIST This year's readers' choice winners 41 FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANT Yellowbelly by adam rothbarth 42 BURGER SPECTRUM by adam rothbarth 45 BY THE NUMBERS Sugarfire Smoke House by lauren healey 48 FAVORITE LOCAL WINERY Grafton Winery by matt sorrell 50 THE GREAT SLINGER DEBATE by adam rothbarth 54 FAVORITE INDIAN Himalayan Yeti by heather hughes 58 STUFF TO DO by darian stevenson 60 WHAT I DO Joe Weinmann by catherine klene 62 LANDMARK Hodak’s Restaurant & Bar by adam rothbarth last bite asparagus at savage, p. 25 Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sugarfire Smoke House owner Mike Johnson joins Sauce on St. Louis on the Air to talk barbecue in The Lou. COVER DETAILS Find out why Balkan Treat Box was your Favorite Mediterranean/Middle Eastern restaurant on p. 17.
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING
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Take your horse down to Old Town Donuts – this year’s Readers’ Choice Favorite Doughnut Shop. We concur. From cinnamon rolls to jelly doughnuts to spontaneous doughnuts of the day, the Florissant institution never disappoints. Our very favorite, however, is the Old-Fashioned Donut. Spiked with the subtle tang of buttermilk and sealed with a crackling sugar glaze, have one in the morning with coffee, after lunch for dessert or at 1 a.m. for a nightcap. Open 24 hours, there’s always time for an Old Town doughnut. Can’t nobody tell you nothing.

PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO E D I T O R S' PICKS
Eat This 508 S. New Florissant Road, Florissant, 314.831.0907, oldtowndonuts.com
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planter's house rules

first

place bartender of the year; first place favorite cocktails

Readers’ Choice Bartender of the Year Ted Kilgore knows a thing or two about putting together a top-notch drinks list. An undisputed OG of the St. Louis cocktail scene, Kilgore has made his reputation putting together thoughtful and creative bar menus everywhere from the now-shuttered Monarch to Taste by Niche to your Favorite Cocktails winner, Planter’s House, which he coowns with his wife, Jamie Kilgore, and Ted Charak.

Kilgore’s approach is straightforward: incorporate a wide variety of flavors and use quality spirits and modifiers – not just the flavor of the moment pushed by the powers that be. He also offers guests plenty of choices, from nonalcoholic and low-ABV libations to classics both old and new.

The crown jewel of the menu is a selection of seasonal creations built around a changing theme. The current seasonal list at Planter’s House is inspired by famous sci-fi robots. It’s the 10th and most elaborate and diverse themed menu since Planter’s House opened in 2013 – 16 of the 18 drinks require house-made ingredients or special techniques, including the use of a centrifuge to clarify some components.

Rather than develop the menus solo, Kilgore takes a less ego-centric approach. He has a reputation for building a strong team and investing in its

development. The entire bar staff is involved in the process of putting together the Planter’s House cocktail list. It’s a strategy Kilgore started employing in earnest when he managed the original Taste by Niche in Benton Park.

“You have to trust your staff,” Kilgore said. “I like to have all of our bartenders involved so everyone has a personal stake.”

Over a five-week period, the bar staff comes to the table with ideas, and Kilgore directs the process. At each stage of development, the entire group has to sign off on each cocktail before it can go to the next phase (though Kilgore and bar manager Kate Kinsey reserve final veto power). Some drinks on the current menu went through more than 10 variations before the final version was agreed upon.

Kilgore said involving the staff gives them ownership and a chance to stretch out creatively. The result: happy bartenders who stick around for a while – rare in an industry where constant turnover is the norm. The extra hands also take some pressure off Kilgore, allowing him to take care of myriad other concerns with running the bar.

The approach seems to be working – not only are Planter’s House and Kilgore Sauce Readers’ Choice winners, Planter’s House was also a semifinalist for Best Bar Program at this year’s James Beard Awards.

from left, hyanneke van der pennen, clara noble, jeffrey b. moll jr., thomas bishop, kate kinsey, brandy hernandez and ted kilgore

planter’s house 1000 mississippi ave., st. louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

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PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
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chef tour

Loryn Nalic has made a name for herself creating comforting dishes from the Balkans, first with a food truck and now with the brick-and-mortar Balkan Treat Box in Webster Groves – winner of this year’s Favorite Mediterranean/Middle Eastern category. Like most industry folks, Nalic and her husband and Balkan co-owner Edo Nalic have precious little free time to kick back at anyone else’s establishment. “When we go out, we want it to be a sure shot,” she said. That’s probably why they frequent so many Sauce Readers’ Choice winners. – Matt Sorrell

Nudo House

First Place Favorite Ramen

“We go there a lot, and not just because Qui [Tran] and MarieAnne [Velasco] are friends,” Nalic said of the duo at the Creve Coeur noodle standby.

“We’re total Shroomed Out junkies,” she said, referring to Nudo’s uber-popular ramen bowl based on mushroom broth and full of king oyster mushrooms. She’s also fond of Nudo’s take on banh mi.

11423 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, 314.274.8046, nudohousestl.com

Brasserie by Niche

Honorable Mention

Favorite Brunch

For special occasions, Nalic opts for this French comfort food

staple. “It’s a place we go to celebrate – from birthdays to anniversaries.” Nalic gravitates toward the dessert menu, specifically the Floating Island – Brasserie’s version of the decadent, oldschool French dessert made with a mound of meringue, custard and caramel sauce. 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com

June 2019 E D I T O R S' PICKS
PORTRAIT BY ASHLEY GIESEKING; NUDO HOUSE PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON; BRASSERIE PHOTO BY ELIZABETH JOCHUM
clockwise from left: balkan treatbox coowners loryn and edo nalic; nudo house co-owners qui tran and marie-anne velasco; the eggs benedict at brasserie by niche LORYN NALIC
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Louie Third Place Favorite

Fine Dining // Third Place Favorite Romantic Spot

While the menu is stellar, Nalic said the vibe at Louie is worth the price of admission all by itself. “The thing is the hospitality at Louie,” she said. “You feel well taken care of. The energy is so great. If a restaurant had an aura …” She said Louie’s lunch service should also be at the top of everyone’s daytime dining list – especially the sandwiches. “All day, Louie.”

706 Demun Ave., Clayton, 314.300.8188, louiedemun.com

Olive + Oak

First Place Favorite Fine Dining // Second Place Favorite Cocktails // Third Place Favorite Restaurant // Honorable Mention Romantic Spot

Olive + Oak is well known for its food menu (chef Jesse Mendica placed in the Chef of the Year category again this year), but it’s also Nalic’s go-to for a topnotch cocktail. “It’s close by, so we go there a lot,” she said, adding she usually bellies up

to the bar and drinks whatever husbandand-wife bartending team Charlie Martin and Morgaine Segura (second place Bartender of the Year) put in front of her.

102 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.736.1370, oliveandoakstl.com

Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery First Place Favorite Bread Nalic’s favorite slice can be had at Loafers. As Sauce readers’ favorite bread, it’s only natural Loafers has the best pizza crust around. “I could eat their pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner,” Nalic said, though she’s pretty much a fan of the whole menu.

“Everything there is so well-executed and thought out.”

1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com

Pappy’s Smokehouse

Second Place Favorite Barbecue Nalic was a vegetarian for nine years, so she’s pretty particular about what meat hits her plate these days. She also honed her grill skills at Pappy’s and sister eatery Bogart’s Smokehouse before launching Balkan Treat Box. “It’s family. It was part of my life for a long time,” she said. When Nalic’s in a carnivorous state of mind, she opts for Pappy’s turkey breast and the smoked wings when they make a menu appearance.

3106 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.535.4340, pappyssmokehouse.com

clockwise from bottom: union loafers cafe and bread bakery; flank steak at olive + oak; louie owner matt mcguire with a pork chop; the mung bean spring rolls at banh mi so no. 1

Banh Mi So No. 1 Honorable Mention Favorite Vietnamese

Located well past the restaurant row on South Grand Boulevard, this nondescript mom-andpop place specializes in Vietnamese cuisine with a focus squarely on food instead of frills. “We need more small, hole-in-the wall places like it,” according to Nalic. The restaurant touts its mung bean spring rolls as the best in town, and Nalic is in complete agreement. She’s also partial to the vegetarian Joe B. banh mi and the tofu curry noodle soup.

4071 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.353.0545, banhmiso1.com

Balkan Treat Box

8103 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.733.5700, balkantreatbox.com

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E D I T O R S' PICKS LOUIE PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON; ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
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A SEAT AT THE BAR

Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

4 hands brewing co.’s full life lager is available at your favorite bottle shop, randall’s wine & spirits.

TED AND JAMIE KILGORE USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House

The British liqueur Pimm’s No. 1 features notes of muted juniper, cinnamon and orange zest. Try it in a Pimm’s Cup. In an ice-filled shaker, combine 2 ounces Pimm’s, ¾ ounce lemon juice, ¾ ounce simple syrup, shake 17 seconds and pour into an ice-filled Collins glass. Top with 2 ounces Fever-Tree ginger ale then garnish with mint, strawberry, cucumber and orange. Pimm’s is available at the Readers’ Choice Favorite Bottle Shop: Randall’s Wine & Spirits. $23. 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com

RYAN GRIFFIN AND JUSTIN HARRIS Co-owners at Saint Louis Hop Shop

The new Full Life Lager is a good example of why 4 Hands Brewing Co. is your Favorite Brewery. Showcasing European Pilsner, Vienna and Carapils malts and Noble hops, this American-style lager is light and refreshing, perfect for your next hiking or camping trip. At only 4.5%, you don’t have to feel guilty having more than one. Six-pack: $9. 4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com

GLENN BARDGETT Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s

If you’re looking for a head-spinning red, the 2017 Casa Silva Carmenere Los Lingues Vineyard features a finish that lasts through your final bite of beef or lamb. With wild black fruit flavors from carmenere, a lesser-known grape of Bordeaux grown to perfection in Chile, this vino offers more oomph than Chilean merlot and more juiciness than Chilean cabernet. Available at the Readers’ Choice Favorite Wine Bar: Sasha’s. $36. sashaswinebar.com

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rev iews

NEW AND NOTABLE

savage restaurant

On a Friday evening at Savage Restaurant, which opened last year inside a renovated Fox Park corner store, all 22 seats around the long, bracket-shaped bar are full – and it’s only 6 p.m. Sitting side by side on comfortable, high-back stools facing the open kitchen comprising most of the restaurant’s space, there’s none of the typical table conversation with friends. Whatever chatter there is centers on chef-owner Logan Ely’s stunning multicourse menu.

June 2019
new and notable SAVAGE RESTAURANT p. 25 // lunch rush LOLA JEAN'S GIVEBACK COFFEE p. 28 // nightlife WELLSPENT BREWING CO. p. 31 All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
beet chicharrón at savage

When not absorbed in her book, the woman next to me visiting from New York snaps photos of her bite-sized moments, “So I can remember what I’m eating.” A couple guys study each dish with scholarly curiosity. We’re here with purpose, to partake in the communal experience of tasting-menu as theater, with Ely in the lead role.

The St. Louis native earned the role through an insatiable desire to find his culinary voice cooking at the erstwhile An American Place, then around the world, from Hong Kong to Copenhagen. Before moving back to St. Louis a little over two years ago, Ely did stints at such highly regarded restaurants as New York’s Blue Hill and Chicago’s North Pond.

But how does a flat broke, passionate chef with a head full of ideas open a restaurant on his own terms? For Ely, the best, and most affordable, avenue was running a series of underground dinners to test those ideas. His aptly named Square1 Project gained notoriety not only for the shock value of incorporating ingredients like bull penis, green weaver ants and fermented yeast, but also for his philosophy of ecologically friendly dining, using the tasting menu structure as a way to control costs and waste. Ely prefers vegetables and seafood and relies on less energy-consuming methods like dehydration, induction burners (the only fire you’ll see is a blowtorch used to char and caramelize) and fermentation and preservation (evidenced by the crocks of vinegars made from leftover wine).

Savage is Square1 made permanent with a tamer, more approachable, albeit no less seductive, menu. There is no puffed, fried bull penis on the plate during my visit. Instead there’s a beet chicharrón, a fantastical take on chips and dip made from pureed, dried beets, deep-fried into a craggy, crackling, crimson puff served with whipped sour milk and chives. From there, the show progresses at the pace of a sensual promenade rather than a rushed parade of dishes to gulp down before the next one arrives – three hours

and 12 dazzling courses. A small staff of servers explains each course – impressively delicious and beautifully plated on dishes made by a local ceramist – with a refreshing lack of pomp or preciousness.

Throughout the evening, the tall, seriouslooking Ely hunches over the center island as he and three cooks methodically prepare and assemble with the precision of origami artists, as we, their rapt audience, watch. When Ely does step away from the center island, it feels more like he’s breaking the fourth wall than delivering a dish to diners.

Ely’s challenge with the concept – there’s a six-course option, a 12-course option or a four-course snacking menu – is to keep us interested with exciting flavors, textures, scents and temperatures so our palates don’t get bored midway through the experience. I am particularly

enamored by how artfully arranged every impeccable dish looks – spheres, cubes, foams, petals and crumbles. The color of a green tomato, cored and shaped like a flower petal, capped with bits of clam and drizzled with pale green herbed oil, pops against the rustic texture of its plate; a single asparagus accented by a squiggle of creamy egg yolk in a celery root-mussel foam is a study in the various shades of green.

I love the fish. The delicate flavor of a rectangle of baked fluke is enhanced by a miso crust atop a dollop of beurre blanc bolstered by kombu seaweed, adding a subtle mushroomlike savoriness. The firm texture of raw spot prawn comes with bursts of roe accompanied by paper-thin brined cucumber and emulsified cucumber, accenting the natural sweetness of the shrimp.

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Where 2655 Ann Ave., St. Louis, 314.354.8488, savagestl.com
Vibe Edison lighting, black walls and exposed brick evoke both a subdued speakeasy and industrial starkness, while candles inside and out emphasize the casual, welcoming vibe. Prices
savage
dishes
logan
savage
Six-course dinner
tasting
menu: $55;
12-course:
$75
When Wed. to Sat. –Noon to 4 p.m.; 5 to 9:30 p.m.
carrot cake ball
at savage  chef-owner
ely in the kitchen at

As the night progresses, incongruences prove harmonious. Lightly braised squid cut into fettuccine-width strands top a spoonful of funky fermented potato mousse freckled by seaweed crumbles has me wondering why until two bites later –oh, that’s why. Slow-cooking an apple for two weeks sounds ridiculous until I taste the concentrated sweetness and jammy texture of the gala, which is served whole and flecked with a “pie crust” crumble.

Equally inspired drink pairings are available for each tasting option. A creamy, rich Italian white sparkling and sublime dry Madeira bookend a couple ciders, a Belgian wit, a bubbly gamay and a remarkable, rarely

available chardonnay from Beaujolais. The full wine selection includes interesting, quirky wines from the Canary Islands, the Finger Lakes and Slovenia.

Lunch – a set a-la-carte menu of five dishes for $7 each – is just as good. That fluke and kombu beurre blanc showed up again, this time with olives and green tomatoes. It still impressed, inspiring my colleague to demand the kitchen feature the beurre blanc more often. Flakes of dried fish punctuated a salad of red romaine and white asparagus with umami funk while a bit of mild, house-made goat cheese went a long way to smooth the bright acidity of a bowl with pickled cucumbers, daikon and yellow beets.

The menu explains the name Savage refers to the restaurant’s commitment to looking to the past for ingredients and techniques, bringing out textures and flavors with less manipulation and more natural methods. Savor might be a more accurate name with fewer negative associations, were it not already associated with a nowdefunct local restaurant. But I have no notes for the ideas themselves. After putting my faith in Ely’s philosophy throughout 12 courses, all those Willy Wonka references – quotes on the menu, photos in the bathroom –make sense. Wonka, after all, was an uncompromising visionary who valued pure imagination.

lola jean’s giveback coffee

Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee, sister restaurant to neighboring Russell’s on Macklind, is an inviting cafe with a mission: the restaurant donates all proceeds to nonprofits like Big Brothers Big Sisters. But that’s not the only reason to go. A bright mural of lemons backdrops the laidback, kid-friendly space, and, on warm days, the back patio teems with patrons. The menu is as fun and approachable as the decor, featuring well-executed takes on classic lunch fare prepared by chef-owner Russell Ping. It’s tempting to linger all day.

Roasted Turkey Sandwich

Served cold between two massive slices of country white bread, this is a straightforward and delicious turkey sandwich. Ping has fun with the house-made aioli, which offers a tinge of sweetness from powdered sugar added to imitate Miracle Whip. The rest of the sandwich is textbook: giant slices of moist turkey, a huge cut of gloriously red beefsteak tomato seasoned with just the right amount of salt and pepper, and a crisp layer of iceberg lettuce.

Breakfast Burrito

Served all day, there is no reason to miss the plump breakfast burrito. Along with fluffy scrambled eggs, it’s stuffed with a mound of rich carnitas cooked overnight in a southwestern rub, shredded and brought to crispy heaven on a flattop. Pickled jalapeno and serrano peppers add tartness and a hint of heat, while a chipotle-lime aioli and shredded white cheddar bring a zesty, creamy element. The hearty burrito is wrapped in a thick flour tortilla and seared on a panini press.

Braised Chicken Thigh Baguette

Moist, tender chicken braised in white wine with celery, onion, rosemary, thyme and garlic is the centerpiece of this outstanding sandwich. The sumptuous, shredded thigh meat is piled high on a hot and crusty baguette along with a slice of melted Swiss and

finished with a generous slather of house-made aioli and a rich green olive tapenade – the ideal pair for the delicate chicken.

Chopped Salad

This is the superstar of Lola Jean’s menu. Thick pieces of bacon are generous and flavorful, fresh cherry tomatoes burst with snappy perfection, nutty toasted sunflower seeds warm you like sunshine and a hard-boiled egg adds substance. But the real workhorse is the basil vinaigrette – a fresh and flavorful amalgamation of basil, honey, red wine vinegar, salt, pepper and olive oil that seeps onto every delicious forkful.

the new york strip loin sandwich

lola jean’s chopped salad

Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee 5400 Nottingham Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9903, lolajeans coffee.com  the dining room at lola jean’s

New York Strip

Loin Sandwich

New York strip loin is roasted medium-rare, then sliced and seared on a hot flattop for this carnivorepleasing sandwich. Layered with white cheddar, sweet pickled shallots and a creamy, rich horseradish Dijon on Breadsmith sourdough, the sandwich is buttered and finished on a hot panini press.

The Downside

This popular spot is absolutely slammed Saturdays and Sundays, making getting a table nearly impossible. It can also be hard to make a carryout order over the phone – I’ve let it ring without anyone picking up and been left on hold until the call disconnected. Weekday afternoons offer a much better chance to sit back and enjoy this vibrant, easygoing cafe.

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LUNCH RUSH LUNCH RUSH
breakfast burrito
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wellspent brewing co. in midtown

inviting space that encourages lingering with both human and canine buddies.

who like to try a little bit of everything. The bartenders will, however, offer you tastes before you commit to a full pour.

wellspent brewing co.

Wellspent Brewing Co. is working hard to be a Midtown gathering space for all. The brewery has been pouring lagers, sours and Belgian-style beers since last March, and has developed an impressive list of events targeting everyone from science nerds to sports nuts and families.

Something fun (and usually free) is going on nearly every day. Events change seasonally, but trivia on Wednesday, cornhole league on Thursday and movie night on Friday are current

mainstays. Whether the events draw a crowd is hit-or-miss (it seems there are always a few Saint Louis University students hanging around), but it’s clear co-owners Kyle and Angela Kohlmorgen are always thinking of new ways to get people in the door.

The brewery is situated in an old abandoned movie theater, its long, narrow shape and gilded plaster marquees hinting at the past. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the front open up what could be a dark and claustrophobic space. Crisp, black-andwhite decor makes the

space bright and modern, with a minimalistic yet welcoming look. Long, narrow communal tables bring some intimacy to the set-up, and the bar is like a hipster reimagining of a midcentury soda fountain with shiny chrome, black accents and the bar wall tiled in a handsome British racing green.

Outside, there’s a large patio with picnic tables, string lights and a small, grassy yard for cornhole. When it’s warm, Friday night movies are projected onto one of the patio’s brick walls. It’s an

the buck belgian-style single

But the beers are why you’re here. Kyle was a celebrated St. Louis homebrewer before launching the professional brewery. Start by trying his Pilsner, an unfiltered lager with a light floral aroma from dry-hopping. The clean taste of a good lager isn’t easy to pull off, but Wellspent manages it beautifully. The Buck, a Belgianstyle single, has a yeasty nose with slight hints of clove and banana. Like the Pilsner, it’s smooth, easy-drinking and simple in the best possible way. Superhero Theme Music, Wellspent’s session stout, is lacking a bit in complexity but has nice notes of strong-brewed coffee and a creamy finish.

the patio at wellspent

The Tamale Man, a family-run farmers market favorite, provides Wellspent’s food menu. Handmade pork, veggie and vegan black bean tamales come out wrapped in foil and accompanied by a side of spicy green salsa. Each one is hefty, the cornhusk enveloping a thick layer of creamy masa and savory fillings. A few snacks are also available, including Billy Goat Chips.

Wellspent Brewing Co. 2917 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.328.0505, wellspentbeer. com

Although Belgian-style brews are the focus, Wellspent always has cider, but no wine or cocktails. For a brewery so laser-focused on beer, however, I was surprised Wellspent was out of multiple house brews on consecutive visits. There is also no flight available, which may irk those

With solid Belgian-style beers and a grade-A patio, Wellspent is the perfect place to kick back and enjoy the good life.

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NIGHTLIFE the tamale man’s tamales
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from left, sugarfire smoke house and hi-pointe drive-in chef-owner mike johnson with employees heather dougherty, laron richards, melanie pritchett, veronica schuster, kat wallace and adam pritchett

your favorite places to eat

Favorite New Restaurant of 2018 YELLOWBELLY

4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.499.1509, yellowbellystl.com

2nd: Billie-Jean

3rd: The Chocolate Pig, The Clover and the Bee (tie) Honorable Mentions: Carnivore, Cinder House

Favorite Restaurant SUGARFIRE SMOKE HOUSE

Various locations, sugarfiresmokehouse.com

2nd: Peacemaker Lobster & Crab

3rd: Olive + Oak

Honorable Mention: Eleven Eleven Mississippi, Grace Meat + Three

Chef of the Year

MATT GLICKERT, SUGARFIRE 44

932 Meramec Station Road, Valley Park, 636.825.1400, sugarfiresmokehouse.com

2nd: Michael Gallina, Vicia

3rd: Rick Lewis, Grace Meat + Three

Honorable Mentions: Jesse Mendica, Olive + Oak; Nick Bognar, Nippon Tei

Favorite Fine Dining OLIVE + OAK

102 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.736.1370, oliveandoakstl.com

2nd: Sidney Street Cafe

3rd: Louie, Tony’s (tie) Honorable Mentions: Polite Society, Vicia

Favorite Diner SOUTHWEST DINER

6803 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.260.7244, southwestdinerstl.com

2nd: Uncle Bill’s Pancake and Dinner House  3rd: City Diner

Honorable Mentions: Chris’ Pancake & Dining,  Courtesy Diner

Favorite Food Truck SEOUL TACO FOOD TRUCK  Twitter: @seoultaco

2nd: Mission Taco Truck  3rd: Guerrilla Street Food

Honorable Mentions: Balkan Treat Box, Sarah’s Cake Stop

Favorite Deli/ Sandwich Shop BLUES CITY DELI

2438 McNair Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.8225, bluescitydeli.com

2nd: Gioia’s Deli

3rd: Mom’s Deli

Honorable Mentions: Adriana’s on The Hill, The Gramophone

Favorite Barbecue SUGARFIRE SMOKE HOUSE

Various locations, sugarfiresmokehouse.com

2nd: Pappy’s Smokehouse

3rd: Salt + Smoke

Honorable Mentions: Beast Craft BBQ Co., Bogart’s Smokehouse

Favorite Sushi NIPPON TEI

14025 Manchester Road, Ballwin, 636.386.8999, nippon.teistl.com

2nd: Drunken Fish

3rd: Wasabi Sushi Bar  Honorable Mentions: BLK MKT Eats, Sushi Ai

Favorite Steakhouse

ANNIE GUNN’S

16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684, anniegunns.com

2nd: Tucker’s Place

3rd: Twisted Tree Steakhouse  Honorable Mentions: 1818

Chophouse, Citizen Kane’s Steak House

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IZAIAH JOHNSON
PHOTO BY

Favorite Pizza Place PEEL WOOD FIRED PIZZA

Various locations, peelpizza.com

2nd: Imo’s Pizza

3rd: Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria

Honorable Mentions: Pi Pizzeria, Pirrone’s Pizzeria

Favorite Brunch SHACK BREAKFAST & LUNCH

Various locations, eatatshack.com

2nd: Hendel’s Restaurant, Rooster (tie)

3rd: Half & Half

Honorable Mentions: Brasserie By Niche, Egg

Favorite Italian CHARLIE GITTO’S ON THE HILL, CUNETTO HOUSE OF PASTA (TIE)

5226 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8898, charliegittos.com; 5453 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.781.1135, cunetto.com

2nd: Pastaria

3rd: Zia’s on The Hill

Honorable Mentions: Anthonino’s Taverna, Trattoria Marcella

Favorite Chinese MAI LEE

8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, 314.645.2835, maileestl.com

2nd: Lona’s Lil Eats

3rd: China King

Honorable Mentions: Lu Lu

Seafood & Dim Sum, Wang Gang Asian Eats

Favorite Fried Chicken HODAK’S RESTAURANT & BAR

2100 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.7292, hodaks.com

2nd: Southern

3rd: Grace Meat + Three

Honorable Mentions: Byrd & Barrel, King Edward’s Chicken & Fish

Favorite Chicken Wings SYBERG’S

Various locations, sybergs.com

2nd: Sugarfire Smoke House

3rd: Peel Wood Fired Pizza

Honorable Mentions: Grace Meat + Three, Southtown Pub

Favorite Burger HI-POINTE DRIVE-IN

1033 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.349.2720; 634 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.405.8274, hipointedrivein.com

2nd: Mac’s Local Eats, Stacked STL (tie)

3rd: O’Connell’s Pub

Honorable Mentions: Carl’s Drive-In, The Dam

thebenevolentking.com

2nd: Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant

3rd: African Palace Bar & Grill

Honorable Mentions: Simba

Ugandan Restaurant, Ye Ethiopian Restaurant

Favorite Cajun/Creole BROADWAY OYSTER BAR

736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com

2nd: Gulf Shores Restaurant & Grill

3rd: Boogaloo

Honorable Mentions: Evangeline’s Bistro & Music House, Sister Cities Cajun

Favorite Indian HIMALAYAN YETI

Favorite Frozen Dessert TED DREWES FROZEN CUSTARD

6726 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.481.2652; 4224 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.352.7376, teddrewes.com

2nd: Clementine’s Naughty and Nice Creamery

3rd: Fritz’s Frozen Custard

Honorable Mentions: The Fountain on Locust, Ices Plain & Fancy

Favorite Tacos MISSION TACO JOINT

Various locations, missiontacojoint.com

2nd: Seoul Taco

3rd: Taco Circus

Honorable Mentions: Chava’s Mexican Restaurant, Las Fuentes Mexican Restaurant

Favorite Mexican EL MAGUEY

Various locations, elmagueystl.com

2nd: Hacienda Mexican Restaurant

3rd: El Burro Loco

Honorable Mentions: Mi Ranchito, Rosalita’s Cantina

Favorite African THE BENEVOLENT KING

7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0440,

2nd: Aya Sofia

3rd: Layla

Honorable Mentions: The Vine Lebanese Cuisine & Juice Bar, Café Natasha’s

Favorite Soul Food/ Southern GRACE MEAT + THREE

4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.2700, stlgrace.com

2nd: Sweetie Pie’s Upper Crust

3rd: Southern  Honorable Mentions: Juniper, Mom’s Soul Food Kitchen

Favorite Thai KING AND I THAI

3157 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.1777, kingandistl.com

3515 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.354.8338, himalayanyetistlouis.com

2nd: House of India

3rd: Everest Café & Bar  Honorable Mentions: India Palace, Rasoi

Favorite Korean SEOUL TACO

6665 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.863.1148; 46 Four Seasons Shopping Center, Chesterfield, 314.548.6868, seoultaco.com

2nd: Kimchi Guys

3rd: Seoul Garden

Honorable Mentions: K-Bop Food Truck, Oriental Spoon

Favorite Greek OLYMPIA KEBOB HOUSE AND TAVERNA

1543 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.781.1299, olympiakebobandtavern.com

2nd: Spiro’s Restaurant  3rd: Michael’s Bar & Grill

Honorable Mentions: Anthonino’s Taverna, My Big Fat Greek Truck

Favorite Mediterranean/ Middle Eastern BALKAN TREAT BOX

8103 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.733.5700, balkantreatbox.com

2nd: Fork & Stix

3rd: Pearl Café

Honorable Mentions:

Pad Thai St. Louis, Thai House

Favorite Vietnamese MAI LEE

8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, 314.645.2835, maileestl.com

2nd: Pho Grand

3rd: Lemon Grass Restaurant Honorable Mentions: Banh Mi So No. 1, Little Saigon Cafe

Favorite Ramen NUDO HOUSE

11423 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, 314.274.8046, nudohousestl.com

2nd: Robata

3rd: The Blue Ocean  Honorable Mentions: Nami Ramen, Ramen Tei

Favorite Vegetarian/Vegan LULU’S LOCAL EATERY

3201 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.300.8215, luluslocaleatery.com

2nd: Lona’s Lil Eats

3rd: Small Batch

Whiskey & Fare, Tree House (tie) Honorable Mentions: Pizza Head, Urban Eats Cafe

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the lobster turnovers at your favorite romantic spot, sidney street cafe PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
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Favorite Patio

JOHN D. MCGURK’S IRISH PUB AND GARDEN

1200 Russell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.8309, mcgurks.com

2nd: The Boathouse at Forest Park

3rd: Billy G’s Kirkwood

Honorable Mentions: Broadway Oyster Bar, Vin de Set

Favorite Romantic Spot SIDNEY STREET CAFE

2000 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.771.5777, sidneystreetcafestl.com

2nd: Bar Les Frères

3rd: Louie, Cinder House (tie)

Honorable Mentions:

Olive + Oak, Tony’s

your favorite places to drink

Bartender of the Year TED KILGORE, PLANTER’S HOUSE

1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershouse.com

your

2nd: Morgaine Segura, Olive + Oak

3rd: Terry Oliver, Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge

Honorable Mentions: Tim Wiggins, Yellowbelly; Tony Saputo, The Midwestern Meat & Drink

Favorite Cocktails PLANTER’S HOUSE

1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

2nd: Olive + Oak

3rd: Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge, Taste (tie)

Honorable Mentions: Blood & Sand, Narwhal’s Crafted

Favorite Brewery 4 HANDS BREWING CO.

1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com

2nd: Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

3rd: Schlafly Honorable Mentions: 2nd Shift Brewing, Civil Life Brewing Co.

Favorite Local Winery

GRAFTON WINERY & BREWHAUS

300 W. Main St., Grafton, 618.786.3001, thegraftonwinery.com

2nd: Chandler Hill Vineyards

3rd: Cedar Lake Cellars

Honorable Mentions: Montelle Winery, St. James Winery

Favorite Beer Bar

THREE KINGS PUBLIC HOUSE

Various locations, threekingspub.com

2nd: International Tap House

3rd: The Side Project Cellar  Honorable Mentions: Gezellig, Global Brew Tap House

Favorite Wine Bar

SASHA’S WINE BARS

706 Demun Ave., St. Louis, 314.863.7274; 4069 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.7274, sashaswinebar.com

2nd: Cork Wine Bar

3rd: Robust Wine Bar  and Cafe

Honorable Mentions: 33 Wine Shop & Bar, Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar

Favorite Games Bar

WESTPORT SOCIAL

910 Westport Plaza Drive, Maryland Heights, 314.548.2876, westportsocial-stl.com

2nd: Blueberry Hill  3rd: Parlor

Honorable Mentions: Pieces, Start Bar

Favorite Pub

JOHN D. MCGURK’S IRISH PUB  AND GARDEN

1200 Russell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.8309, mcgurks.com

2nd: The Scottish Arms Public House

3rd: Llywelyn’s Pub

Honorable Mentions: O’Connell’s Pub, Seamus McDaniel’s

Favorite Sports Bar

SYBERG’S

Various locations, sybergs.com 2nd: Amsterdam Tavern

3rd: The Post Sports Bar & Grill

Honorable Mentions: Billy G’s Kirkwood, Mattingly’s

Favorite Coffee Shop

KALDI’S COFFEE ROASTING CO.

Various locations, kaldiscoffee.com

2nd: The Mud House

3rd: Park Avenue Coffee

Honorable Mentions: Blueprint Coffee, Sump Coffee

Favorite Happy Hour

MISSION TACO JOINT

Various locations, missiontacojoint.com

2nd: Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge

3rd: Helen Fitzgerald’s Irish Grill & Pub

Honorable Mentions: Basso, Three Kings Public House

your favorite places to shop

Favorite Butcher Shop

KENRICK’S MEATS & CATERING

4324 Weber Road, St. Louis, 314.631.2440, kenricks.com

2nd: Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions

3rd: G & W Meat & Bavarian Style Sausage Co.

Honorable Mentions: LeGrand’s Market, Mannino’s Market

Favorite Bread

UNION LOAFERS CAFÉ AND BREAD BAKERY

1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com

2nd: Companion

3rd: Amighetti’s Bakery & Cafe

Honorable Mentions: Missouri Baking Co., Vitale’s Bakery

Favorite Cakes/Pastries NATHANIEL REID BAKERY  11243 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.858.1019, nrbakery.com

2nd: Jilly’s Cupcake Bar  3rd: La Patisserie Chouquette Honorable Mentions: Missouri Baking Co., Russell’s on Macklind

Favorite Doughnut Shop OLD TOWN DONUTS

508 N. New Florissant Road, Florissant, 314.831.0907, oldtowndonuts.com

2nd: Strange Donuts

3rd: Donut Drive-In  Honorable Mentions: Vincent Van Doughnut, World’s Fair Donuts

Favorite Farmers Market

SOULARD FARMERS MARKET

730 Carroll St., St. Louis, 314.622.4180, soulardmarket.com

2nd: Tower Grove Farmers’ Market

3rd: Ferguson Farmers Market  Honorable Mentions: Kirkwood Farmers Market, Land of Goshen Community Market

Favorite Local Grocery DIERBERGS

Various locations, dierbergs.com

2nd: Schnucks

3rd: Straub’s  Honorable Mentions: DiGregorio’s Italian Market, Global Foods Market

Favorite Specialty Shop

CROWN CANDY KITCHEN

1401 Saint Louis Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.9650, crowncandykitchen.net

2nd: Bob’s Seafood  3rd: Volpi Foods  Honorable Mentions: Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier, Kakao Chocolate

Favorite Bottle Shop

RANDALL’S WINES & SPIRITS

Various locations, shoprandalls.com

2nd: The Wine & Cheese Place

3rd: Lukas Wine & Spirits, Saint Louis Hop Shop (tie) Honorable Mentions: Intoxicology, The Wine Merchant

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PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
favorite patio and pub, john d. mcgurk’s irish pub and garden
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Oysters & Pearls

“This is one of Richard Blais’ signature dishes. I really enjoy this dish because it’s playful. Raw oysters are something I love. Getting a good West Coast-style oyster with any kind of horseradish-based sauce is just classic.”

favorite new restaurant

YELLOWBELLY

Wu-Tang Clams

“It’s such a flavor bomb. Wu-Tang clams ain’t nothin’ to shuck with. We wanted something that was really bold. We got some really great Pamplona chorizo, sake, cabbages, natural brininess from the clams. It’s a money dish.”

Charred carrots

“I’m a veg lover. When I go to a restaurant, that tends to be what I crave. These are butter-roasted carrots that just melt in your mouth. They have a nice umami to them because of the eel sauce, and great char. It just pops. To me, this dish is signature Yellowbelly.”

Yellowbelly’s vibrant design and relaxed atmosphere will hook you, but it’s the dazzling, seafood-heavy menu that will reel you in. With the help of consulting chef Richard Blais, Yellowbelly owners Travis Howard and Tim Wiggins created an exotic getaway in the heart of the Central West End. “Yes, we are island-inspired,” said chef de cuisine Kate Wagoner. “But, really, we’re just trying to find flavors that are exciting and pack a punch.” Here are five of Wagoner’s favorite plates at your Favorite New Restaurant, Yellowbelly. – Adam Rothbarth

4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.449.1509, yellowbellystl.com

Avocado toast

“Our avocado toast is crazy popular. We get our bread from Union Loafers, make a normal avocado mash, then a lomi lomi, which is a marinated salmon that we mix with our house pico. We top it with a mango yolk, which oozes just like a fresh, runny egg.”

Seared salmon with Spam fried rice

“It’s my absolute favorite large plate that we have. We have our house-pickled shiitakes in there, and then we take our salmon and basically make a sauce with eggs and tamari and sear it in that mixture, so it makes a pancake-like consistency on the salmon. It has an amazing texture.”

June 2019 PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON

BURGER SPECTRUM

A BURGER IS NEVER JUST A BURGER.

A burger is a canvas where one can act out their most insane culinary fantasies or push traditional ideas to heavenly perfection. No condiment is off limits, and no topping is faux pas while, at the same time, few are required with a perfectly cooked patty, as this year’s Readers’ Choice winners prove.

On one end of the spectrum, we find bombastic, culture-blending concoctions measured by how many flavors can be packed vertically into a leaning tower of madness. Here, Hi-Pointe Drive-In reigns supreme with menu items like the Arch D-Lux – a double burger, American cheese, pepper bacon, ketchup, D-Lux sauce, LTOP (lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle) and a sesame seed bun –and specials like the Sweet Baby Cheesus, which contains a double cheeseburger, bacon, fried egg and LTOP between two grilled cheese sandwiches. Also toward the more extreme end is Stacked STL, where burgers like the En Fuego overlook the competition from above with pepper jack cheese, crispy jalapenos, roasted corn guacamole and chipotle aioli.

On the quieter side lies O’Connell’s Pub, whose burger list contains two options: hamburger and cheeseburger. O’Connell’s beloved

burgers come with minimal toppings and have a backyard cookout feel, right down to the paper plates they’re served on. Also on this end is Mac’s Local Eats, which blows minds with its classic burger, available with one, two, three or four patties and sporting only ketchup, mustard, pickles, onion and American cheese. To be sure, Mac’s has some pretty wild options as well (check out the Dirty Sancho), but the classic double is its most popular, according to owner Chris “Mac” McKenzie.

The extra: Hi-Pointe Drive-In’s St. Lunatic Burger

“The biggest reach we did was probably the St. Lunatic burger. We actually did that out of St. Charles at Sugarfire, but that’s probably the craziest burger we’ve ever done. It got like 1,500 shares [on Facebook] in an hour or something like that. We did a regular bacon cheeseburger, but we made everything St. Louis, so we put a barbecue pork steak on it, toasted ravioli, Provel cheese sauce and then we used Imo’s pizzas for buns.” – executive chef Adam Pritchett

The archetype: Mac’s Local Eats’ Classic Double

“What we do is dry-age the cow, the whole thing, for four weeks. And then they turn the

June 2019

SPECTRUM

whole cow into ground beef. All of the meat: the chuck, the rib, the short loin, the tenderloin. I always look at it like if you go to another burger joint, a lot of times, it’s about the stack of flavors. You’ve got some goat cheese, some sauteed onions, whatever. But here, we’re trying to complement the meat and let the meat stand on its own. Toppings are great and everything, but the truth is … just get a cheeseburger. It’s so damn good. Just a cheeseburger.” – chef-owner Chris “Mac” McKenzie

First Place

Hi-Pointe Drive-In 1033 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.349.2720, hipointedrivein.com

Second Place (Tie)

Mac’s Local Eats

1227 Tamm Ave., St. Louis, 314.479.8155, macslocaleats.com

Second Place (Tie)

Stacked STL

7637 Ivory Ave., St. Louis, 314.544.4900, stackedstl.com

Third Place

O’Connell’s Pub

4652 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.6600, Facebook: O’Connell’s Pub

Honorable Mentions

Carl’s Drive-In, carlsdrivein.com The Dam, thedamstl.com

June 2019
ROTHBARTH // PHOTOS BY JULIA CALLEO
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restaurant

SUGARFIRE SMOKE HOUSE

There’s a reason Sugarfire Smoke House has become synonymous with St. Louis barbecue. It won Favorite Barbecue and Favorite Restaurant, and Sugarfire 44 catering and events chef Matt Glickert was voted Chef of the Year Here’s what it takes to keep the smoke rolling, by the numbers. – Lauren Healey Sugarfire Smoke House, various locations, sugarfiresmokehouse.com employees

650 gallons barbecue sauce sold last year

44 smokers shakes sold last year

850 miles

40,000 between the Olivette flagship and the Westminster, Colorado, franchise location

6 years in business

6 to 10

110 Meat smoked daily: sandwiches served daily

60,000+

51,389 people follow all Sugarfire locations on Instagram

3,000

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required per
napkins
plate
lbs. brisket
lbs. pork
lbs. ribs 1,200 lbs. turkey 250 lbs. sausage
5,000
2,400
1,600
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN your favorite
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favorite local winery

GRAFTON WINERY & BREWHAUS

Taking in the picturesque view of the Mississippi River from the sprawling second story patio area, you won’t question why Grafton Winery & Brewhaus won Readers’ Choice Favorite Local Winery. With award-winning wines, a microbrewery and a restaurant, the winery has something for everyone. Grafton’s Vineyards location, with four acres of

vines and a fire pit overlooking a lake, offers a more traditional wine picnic setting for whiling away the day with a glass of vino year-round.

Winery & Brewhaus, 300 W. Main St.; The Vineyards, 21028 Eckert Orchard Road, Grafton, Illinois, 618.786.3001, thegraftonwinery.com

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PHOTO COURTESY OF GRAFTON WINERY & BREWHAUS
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THE GREAT SLINGER DEBATE

To quote Southwest Diner co-owner Jonathan Jones: “A diner in St. Louis has to have a slinger.” It may not be as controversial, but the slinger has earned its place alongside Provel-topped pizza and breadsliced bagels as one of St. Louis’ most debated dishes. A classic slinger usually comprises eggs, meat, potato, chili and cheese. However, once you get into the hard-and-fast details, nothing is certain. As far as toppings go, the chili versus gravy argument has long separated the dish’s most passionate supporters. While torrents of chili dress the slingers at most local diners, Jones defends Southwest’s use of gravy with a simple question: “Um, have you had our gravy?”

Here’s how your five Readers’ Choice Favorite Diners handle the slinger.

First Place

Southwest Diner

6803 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.260.7244, southwestdinerstl.com

Sitting at No. 1 in the Favorite Diner category, Southwest brings a unique (and often spicy) take on numerous breakfast staples. Its Southwest Slinger features two quarter-pound burger patties, home fries, melted longhorn cheese, two eggs and red or green chilies. Notice that actual chili is absent here. You mad? Get over it – for two bucks, you can add homemade sausage gravy (and you definitely should).

Second Place

Uncle Bill’s Pancake and Dinner House

3427 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.832.1973, ubpancakes.com

Open 24 hours a day since 1961, Uncle Bill’s is the spot that everyone

and their parents (and grandparents) know. A very traditional take, the Sling Shot features hash browns, a burger, two eggs, chili and two pieces of American cheese. And that’s perfect, because let’s be real – nobody wants a weird slinger a 3 a.m.

Third Place

City Diner

3139 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.6100, citydinerstl.com

With a massive menu featuring everything from huevos rancheros to Philly cheesesteak to liver and

onions, there’s something at City Diner for everyone. If you’re here for the slinger, you can look forward to two eggs, pork sausage, hash browns, chili and cheddar.

Honorable Mention

Courtesy Diner

Various locations, courtesydiner.com

If you haven’t eaten a slinger at Courtesy Diner between the hours of 1 and 5 a.m., you’ve missed the quintessential St. Louis late-night experience. The efficiently titled Slinger has two eggs, hash browns, hamburger and chili. There’s no

cheese, but it’s available as an addon. (Pro tip: Don’t forget Courtesy Diner is cash-only.)

Honorable Mention

Chris’ Pancake and Dining

5980 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.2088, chrispancakeanddining.com

Definitely the most out-there concoction, Chris’ slinger is more like a mutant egg dish – in a cool way. The Slinger Stuffed Omelet contains jalapeno, onion, smoked brisket, hash browns and cheddar, all topped with chili.

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PHOTOS BY JULIA CALLEO the southwest slinger at southwest diner
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from top, aloo matar, chicken tikka masala and navratan korma

One of the most popular ways to experience your Favorite Indian restaurant is Himalayan Yeti’s $10 lunch buffet. Full of crowd-pleasing classics –tandoori chicken, dal soup, tikka masala, palak paneer – the buffet allows you to enjoy more than a dozen north Indian and Nepalese dishes for less than as many dollars. – Heather Hughes

3515 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.354.8338, himalayanyetistlouis.com

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favorite indian HIMALAYAN YETI
himalayan yeti owner prem prasai PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
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JUNE

Ginworld Gin Festival

June 2 – noon to 4 p.m., Mad Art Gallery, 2727 S. 12th St., St. Louis, 314.771.8230, madart.com

Start Sunday Funday with a taste of gin at the Ginworld Gin Festival. The event is packed with workshops, educational seminars, botanical activities, more than 100 gins to sample and more than 50 distillers from around the country. A bloody mary bar and an Aperol spritz cart are also on hand. Tickets available online and at the door.

International Horseradish Festival

June 7 – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; June 8 – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Main Street between Seminary Street and IL-159, Collinsville, 618.344.2884, internationalhorseradishfestival.com

Enjoy a day in downtown Collinsville at the free International Horseradish Festival. Purchase brews, wine and cocktails, along with food like horseradish walking tacos, smoked wings and pizza while grooving to live music. Learn how to prepare horseradish, then bring the kids to Craft Village or the Family Fun Area for carnival games and more.

Sample Soulard Sunday

June 9 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Soulard, St. Louis, historicsoulard.com

Tour historic Soulard while sampling fare like tacos, sliders and jambalaya from more than 20 restaurants and bars like Mission Taco Joint, Bogart’s Smokehouse and 1860 Saloon. Admission includes six food tickets and one drink ticket for a beer. Ten percent of proceeds benefit Habitat for Humanity St. Louis. Tickets available online and at participating businesses the day of the event.

Pie Guy Pizza Class

June 16 – 5 to 7 p.m., Pie Guy Pizza, 4189 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0444, pieguystl.com

Hand toss dough and drink beer while learning how to create Pie Guy-style salads, garlic knots and pizza. Admission includes a complimentary beer, tossing lessons from Pie Guy owner Mitch Frost, as well as pizza dough and sauce recipes. Tickets available online.

denotes a sauce-sponsored event

Criderfest

June 22 – noon to 4 p.m., 2nd Shift Brewing, 1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.9013, 2ndshiftbrewing.com

Sample a variety of brews during 2nd Shift Brewing’s Criderfest, which focuses on lagers this year. Enjoy tastings from more than 70 breweries like Wellspent Brewing Co. and White Rooster Farmhouse Brewery, plus Filipino fare for purchase from Guerrilla Street Food and St. Louis-style barbecue from Salt + Smoke. Tickets available online and at the 2nd Shift tasting room.

Saucy Soirée

June 23 – 5 to 8:30 p.m., Union Station, 1820 Market St., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucysoiree.com

Get ready for the best foodie event of the year, Saucy Soirée. Sauce Magazine’s annual Readers’ Choice grand tasting party features bites from St. Louis’ best culinary establishments. Sample unlimited food, beer, wine and spirits from more than 40 top restaurants, wineries and breweries while supplies last. Tickets available online and at the door.

SAUCE SPONSORED EVENTS

IndiHop

June 1 – 1 to 7 p.m., The Grove and Cherokee Street, St. Louis, indihopstl.com

Shuttle between The Grove and Cherokee Street to sample about 50 beers, enjoy live music and support small businesses. Tickets available online.

Food Truck Friday

June 7 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com

Sample food from more than 20 trucks like Bombay Food Junkies and K-Bop STL. Sip local drinks from Narwhal’s Crafted, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Noboleis Vineyards as you enjoy live music from The Silver Arrows.

Central West End Cocktail Party

June 8 – 5 to 10 p.m., Central West End, St. Louis, cwescene.com

Celebrate the first documented cocktail party at this boozy festival featuring food and drinks from local restaurants like Mission Taco Joint, Gamlin Whiskey House, Brennan’s and more. Listen to live music while neighborhood bartenders battle it out in a cocktail competition.

Music & Wine Festival

June 8 – 5 to 10 p.m., Carondelet Plaza, downtown Clayton, claytonmo.gov

Enjoy an elegant evening filled with food, drink and dance. Check out vendors like Balducci Vineyards, Montelle Winery, Kingside Diner and Clementine’s Creamery while grooving to live music from Kim Massie and more during this free festival.

BBQ, Bikes & Blues Festival

June 29 – 1 to 7 p.m., Liberty Bank Amphitheater, 1 Riverfront Drive, Alton, 800.258.6645, libertybankamphitheater.com

Head to Alton for a day of smoked meats, motorcycles and live music. Sample barbecue from vendors like Capitalist Pig, Big Daddy’s and St. Louisiana Q, then check out hundreds of bikes and listen to the sounds of Kim Massie and Souvenir at this free event.

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J O E W E I N M A nn

The office at Kenrick’s Meats & Catering hums all day. Employees come and go, cracking jokes and trading jibes with the easy familiarity of people who’ve known each other for decades and, in some cases, their entire lives. In the center of it all sits the 70-year-old patriarch of this operation, Joe Weinmann (aka Joe the Butcher), giving as good as he gets. Founder Herb Kenrick launched his eponymous mobile butcher truck in 1945. Nearly 75 years later, your Favorite Butcher Shop sells far more than premium cuts of beef and pork. Kenrick’s has its own lines of proprietary spice rubs and barbecue sauces, fresh produce, a lunch counter, prepared grab-and-go meals and a catering business offering everything from barbecue to whole-hog roasts and shrimp boils. Kenrick’s was a family business when Weinmann bought it in 1975 and, if he has anything to say about it, it will be a family business long after he retires – not that he plans to do that anytime soon. – Catherine Klene

“I actually got started in 1968. I worked for a market called Cook’s Market. I was a bagboy when I was 16 years old. …. Mr. Cook asked me, ‘Joey, what are you going to do when you get out of high school?’ And my response was, ‘I’d like to be an apprentice butcher,’ and he goes, ‘OK ... when you get out of high school, you look me up.’ I went into the Army Reserves for six months, and [then] he kept his promise – he made me apprentice butcher.”

“Pete Vitale, who owned Kenrick’s at the time, told me he wanted to retire and try something else, and I told him I’d like to buy it. Basically, I put everything up. … I bought my first business for $15,000. … I was 25 years old. You’ll get a kick out of this – I bought it without telling my wife! I married my prom date, and she’s a wonderful lady, and she handled it extremely well.”

“I had the opportunity to meet [Herb Kenrick] before he passed away, he and his wife, and he was proud that we kept the name on it. It’s a little easier to say ‘Kenrick’ than it is to say ‘Weinmann,’ you know?”

“A couple who shop in here – I felt like the [holiday] M&M commercial – they go, ‘There is a Joe the Butcher!’ and you talk about feeling – I wish my father was still alive to see. They wanted an autograph from me!”

“In 1975, we had three kinds of sausages: Italian sausage, country sausage and bratwurst. Now we make varieties of everything – we probably do 5,000 pounds a week of our sausages.”

“For a radio station, guess what we made? Gummy bratwursts – gummy bears! … They were absolutely

terrible. … We don’t have to tell you where they hit. They hit the trashcans. And if something don’t meet our criteria, we work on it. Basically, we just keep going at it.”

“Take care of the customer, and they’ll keep coming back. We want to hear the good or the bad. Good, bad

or ugly because it means a lot. You want to correct. If someone ain’t happy with a product, you want to know and you want to correct it immediately.”

“It’s a family business. You know it’s going to stay that way. When I’m gone, these guys know it’s going to go forward. I had two

guys who wanted to buy me out, and I told them, ‘What about my employees?’ and they said, ‘What about your employees?’ And I said, ‘Well, Joe didn’t build this by himself.’ People working here put long hours in. It’s a team. You treat people good. That’s why we have longevity here. Family comes first.”

BY

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PHOTO VIRGINIA HAROLD Kenrick’s Meats & Catering, 4324 Weber Road, St. Louis, 314.631.2440, kenricks.com
LAST BITE // WHAT I DO
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HODAK’S RESTAURANT & BAR

Its official name may be Hodak’s Restaurant & Bar, but we’ve always called it Hodak’s Fried Chicken. The restaurant has served some of St. Louis’ most coveted poultry since 1962 and has the accolades to prove it – including winning Favorite Fried Chicken in this year’s Readers’ Choice Poll. But nowhere is Hodak’s more beloved than in its own neighborhood, where chicken is a weekly ritual for more than a few Benton Park customers.

“A lot of them [come in] daily,” said Steve Connors, who has served as the restaurant’s bartender for almost three decades. “I’m surprised after all these years how many people come in three, four, five times a week. It’s very much the same clientele – two or three generations of their families have come here.”

Hodak’s itself was a family endeavor for many years. Tony Hodak opened it in ’62, then his son, also Tony Hodak, and daughters, Tillie Klaric and Flori Muich, ran it before they turned it over to current owner Charlene Hegel in 1989. Throughout its reign, Hodak’s has prided itself on getting the freshest ingredients; these days, the chicken arrives daily from Jones Poultry in Barry, Illinois. The bird is famous, but it isn’t the only treasured dish at Hodak’s. “The barbecue ribs are always a big favorite,” Connors said. “And those fried mushrooms. We bread them here in-house and fry ’em up and send ’em out. People rave about those.”

Hodak’s Restaurant & Bar, 2100 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.7292, hodaks.com

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LAST BITE // LANDMARK
PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
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