ST. LOUIS’ INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY // SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM // FREE, JUNE 2019 YOUR FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANT, P. 41 YOUR FAVORITE COCKTAILS, P. 14 YOUR FAVORITE BURGER, P. 42
chef
loryn
p. 17 READERS' CHOICE
balkan treat box
and co-owner
nalic,
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Cheetos or Doritos?
Cheetos are life. I don’t even like Doritos.
JUNE 2019 • VOLUME 19, ISSUE 6
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CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
I don’t think it’s fair to decide. It’s Sophie’s Choice. I like both.
If it’s puffs, Cheetos. If it’s not puffs, Doritos.
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Any kind of Cheeto over any kind of
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June 2019 PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON JUNE 2019 contents 25 NEW AND NOTABLE Savage Restaurant by michael renner 28 LUNCH RUSH Lola Jean's Giveback Cafe by matt berkley 31 NIGHTLIFE Wellspent Brewing Co. by stephanie zeilenga 11 EAT THIS Old-fashioned donut at Old Town Donuts by meera nagarajan 14 ELIXIR Planter's House Rules by matt sorrell 17 CHEF TOUR Loryn Nalic of Balkan Treat Box by matt sorrell 21 A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake by glenn bardgett, justin harris, ryan griffin and ted and jamie kilgore editors' picks reviews features 34 THE LIST This year's readers' choice winners 41 FAVORITE NEW RESTAURANT Yellowbelly by adam rothbarth 42 BURGER SPECTRUM by adam rothbarth 45 BY THE NUMBERS Sugarfire Smoke House by lauren healey 48 FAVORITE LOCAL WINERY Grafton Winery by matt sorrell 50 THE GREAT SLINGER DEBATE by adam rothbarth 54 FAVORITE INDIAN Himalayan Yeti by heather hughes 58 STUFF TO DO by darian stevenson 60 WHAT I DO Joe Weinmann by catherine klene 62 LANDMARK Hodak’s Restaurant & Bar by adam rothbarth last bite asparagus at savage, p. 25 Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM this month when Sugarfire Smoke House owner Mike Johnson joins Sauce on St. Louis on the Air to talk barbecue in The Lou. COVER DETAILS Find out why Balkan Treat Box was your Favorite Mediterranean/Middle Eastern restaurant on p. 17.
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING
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Take your horse down to Old Town Donuts – this year’s Readers’ Choice Favorite Doughnut Shop. We concur. From cinnamon rolls to jelly doughnuts to spontaneous doughnuts of the day, the Florissant institution never disappoints. Our very favorite, however, is the Old-Fashioned Donut. Spiked with the subtle tang of buttermilk and sealed with a crackling sugar glaze, have one in the morning with coffee, after lunch for dessert or at 1 a.m. for a nightcap. Open 24 hours, there’s always time for an Old Town doughnut. Can’t nobody tell you nothing.
PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO E D I T O R S' PICKS
Eat This 508 S. New Florissant Road, Florissant, 314.831.0907, oldtowndonuts.com
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planter's house rules
first
place bartender of the year; first place favorite cocktails
By Matt Sorrell
Readers’ Choice Bartender of the Year Ted Kilgore knows a thing or two about putting together a top-notch drinks list. An undisputed OG of the St. Louis cocktail scene, Kilgore has made his reputation putting together thoughtful and creative bar menus everywhere from the now-shuttered Monarch to Taste by Niche to your Favorite Cocktails winner, Planter’s House, which he coowns with his wife, Jamie Kilgore, and Ted Charak.
Kilgore’s approach is straightforward: incorporate a wide variety of flavors and use quality spirits and modifiers – not just the flavor of the moment pushed by the powers that be. He also offers guests plenty of choices, from nonalcoholic and low-ABV libations to classics both old and new.
The crown jewel of the menu is a selection of seasonal creations built around a changing theme. The current seasonal list at Planter’s House is inspired by famous sci-fi robots. It’s the 10th and most elaborate and diverse themed menu since Planter’s House opened in 2013 – 16 of the 18 drinks require house-made ingredients or special techniques, including the use of a centrifuge to clarify some components.
Rather than develop the menus solo, Kilgore takes a less ego-centric approach. He has a reputation for building a strong team and investing in its
development. The entire bar staff is involved in the process of putting together the Planter’s House cocktail list. It’s a strategy Kilgore started employing in earnest when he managed the original Taste by Niche in Benton Park.
“You have to trust your staff,” Kilgore said. “I like to have all of our bartenders involved so everyone has a personal stake.”
Over a five-week period, the bar staff comes to the table with ideas, and Kilgore directs the process. At each stage of development, the entire group has to sign off on each cocktail before it can go to the next phase (though Kilgore and bar manager Kate Kinsey reserve final veto power). Some drinks on the current menu went through more than 10 variations before the final version was agreed upon.
Kilgore said involving the staff gives them ownership and a chance to stretch out creatively. The result: happy bartenders who stick around for a while – rare in an industry where constant turnover is the norm. The extra hands also take some pressure off Kilgore, allowing him to take care of myriad other concerns with running the bar.
The approach seems to be working – not only are Planter’s House and Kilgore Sauce Readers’ Choice winners, Planter’s House was also a semifinalist for Best Bar Program at this year’s James Beard Awards.
from left, hyanneke van der pennen, clara noble, jeffrey b. moll jr., thomas bishop, kate kinsey, brandy hernandez and ted kilgore
planter’s house 1000 mississippi ave., st. louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com
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PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
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chef tour
Loryn Nalic has made a name for herself creating comforting dishes from the Balkans, first with a food truck and now with the brick-and-mortar Balkan Treat Box in Webster Groves – winner of this year’s Favorite Mediterranean/Middle Eastern category. Like most industry folks, Nalic and her husband and Balkan co-owner Edo Nalic have precious little free time to kick back at anyone else’s establishment. “When we go out, we want it to be a sure shot,” she said. That’s probably why they frequent so many Sauce Readers’ Choice winners. – Matt Sorrell
Nudo House
First Place Favorite Ramen
“We go there a lot, and not just because Qui [Tran] and MarieAnne [Velasco] are friends,” Nalic said of the duo at the Creve Coeur noodle standby.
“We’re total Shroomed Out junkies,” she said, referring to Nudo’s uber-popular ramen bowl based on mushroom broth and full of king oyster mushrooms. She’s also fond of Nudo’s take on banh mi.
11423 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, 314.274.8046, nudohousestl.com
Brasserie by Niche
Honorable Mention
Favorite Brunch
For special occasions, Nalic opts for this French comfort food
staple. “It’s a place we go to celebrate – from birthdays to anniversaries.” Nalic gravitates toward the dessert menu, specifically the Floating Island – Brasserie’s version of the decadent, oldschool French dessert made with a mound of meringue, custard and caramel sauce. 4580 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com
June 2019 E D I T O R S' PICKS
PORTRAIT BY ASHLEY GIESEKING; NUDO HOUSE PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON; BRASSERIE PHOTO BY ELIZABETH JOCHUM
clockwise from left: balkan treatbox coowners loryn and edo nalic; nudo house co-owners qui tran and marie-anne velasco; the eggs benedict at brasserie by niche
LORYN NALIC
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Louie Third Place Favorite
Fine Dining // Third Place Favorite Romantic Spot
While the menu is stellar, Nalic said the vibe at Louie is worth the price of admission all by itself. “The thing is the hospitality at Louie,” she said. “You feel well taken care of. The energy is so great. If a restaurant had an aura …” She said Louie’s lunch service should also be at the top of everyone’s daytime dining list – especially the sandwiches. “All day, Louie.”
706 Demun Ave., Clayton, 314.300.8188, louiedemun.com
Olive + Oak
First Place Favorite Fine Dining // Second Place Favorite Cocktails // Third Place Favorite Restaurant // Honorable Mention Romantic Spot
Olive + Oak is well known for its food menu (chef Jesse Mendica placed in the Chef of the Year category again this year), but it’s also Nalic’s go-to for a topnotch cocktail. “It’s close by, so we go there a lot,” she said, adding she usually bellies up
to the bar and drinks whatever husbandand-wife bartending team Charlie Martin and Morgaine Segura (second place Bartender of the Year) put in front of her.
102 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.736.1370, oliveandoakstl.com
Union Loafers Café and Bread Bakery First Place Favorite Bread Nalic’s favorite slice can be had at Loafers. As Sauce readers’ favorite bread, it’s only natural Loafers has the best pizza crust around. “I could eat their pizza for breakfast, lunch and dinner,” Nalic said, though she’s pretty much a fan of the whole menu.
“Everything there is so well-executed and thought out.”
1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com
Pappy’s Smokehouse
Second Place Favorite Barbecue Nalic was a vegetarian for nine years, so she’s pretty particular about what meat hits her plate these days. She also honed her grill skills at Pappy’s and sister eatery Bogart’s Smokehouse before launching Balkan Treat Box. “It’s family. It was part of my life for a long time,” she said. When Nalic’s in a carnivorous state of mind, she opts for Pappy’s turkey breast and the smoked wings when they make a menu appearance.
3106 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.535.4340, pappyssmokehouse.com
clockwise from bottom: union loafers cafe and bread bakery; flank steak at olive + oak; louie owner matt mcguire with a pork chop; the mung bean spring rolls at banh mi so no. 1
Banh Mi So No. 1 Honorable Mention Favorite Vietnamese
Located well past the restaurant row on South Grand Boulevard, this nondescript mom-andpop place specializes in Vietnamese cuisine with a focus squarely on food instead of frills. “We need more small, hole-in-the wall places like it,” according to Nalic. The restaurant touts its mung bean spring rolls as the best in town, and Nalic is in complete agreement. She’s also partial to the vegetarian Joe B. banh mi and the tofu curry noodle soup.
4071 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.353.0545, banhmiso1.com
Balkan Treat Box
8103 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.733.5700, balkantreatbox.com
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E D I T O R S' PICKS LOUIE PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON; ALL OTHER PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
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A SEAT AT THE BAR
Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
4 hands brewing co.’s full life lager is available at your favorite bottle shop, randall’s wine & spirits.
TED AND JAMIE KILGORE USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House
The British liqueur Pimm’s No. 1 features notes of muted juniper, cinnamon and orange zest. Try it in a Pimm’s Cup. In an ice-filled shaker, combine 2 ounces Pimm’s, ¾ ounce lemon juice, ¾ ounce simple syrup, shake 17 seconds and pour into an ice-filled Collins glass. Top with 2 ounces Fever-Tree ginger ale then garnish with mint, strawberry, cucumber and orange. Pimm’s is available at the Readers’ Choice Favorite Bottle Shop: Randall’s Wine & Spirits. $23. 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com
RYAN GRIFFIN AND JUSTIN HARRIS Co-owners at Saint Louis Hop Shop
The new Full Life Lager is a good example of why 4 Hands Brewing Co. is your Favorite Brewery. Showcasing European Pilsner, Vienna and Carapils malts and Noble hops, this American-style lager is light and refreshing, perfect for your next hiking or camping trip. At only 4.5%, you don’t have to feel guilty having more than one. Six-pack: $9. 4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com
GLENN BARDGETT Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s
If you’re looking for a head-spinning red, the 2017 Casa Silva Carmenere Los Lingues Vineyard features a finish that lasts through your final bite of beef or lamb. With wild black fruit flavors from carmenere, a lesser-known grape of Bordeaux grown to perfection in Chile, this vino offers more oomph than Chilean merlot and more juiciness than Chilean cabernet. Available at the Readers’ Choice Favorite Wine Bar: Sasha’s. $36. sashaswinebar.com
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rev iews
NEW AND NOTABLE
savage restaurant
BY MICHAEL RENNER // PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
On a Friday evening at Savage Restaurant, which opened last year inside a renovated Fox Park corner store, all 22 seats around the long, bracket-shaped bar are full – and it’s only 6 p.m. Sitting side by side on comfortable, high-back stools facing the open kitchen comprising most of the restaurant’s space, there’s none of the typical table conversation with friends. Whatever chatter there is centers on chef-owner Logan Ely’s stunning multicourse menu.
June 2019
new and notable SAVAGE RESTAURANT p. 25 // lunch rush LOLA JEAN'S GIVEBACK COFFEE p. 28 // nightlife WELLSPENT BREWING CO. p. 31 All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
beet chicharrón at savage
When not absorbed in her book, the woman next to me visiting from New York snaps photos of her bite-sized moments, “So I can remember what I’m eating.” A couple guys study each dish with scholarly curiosity. We’re here with purpose, to partake in the communal experience of tasting-menu as theater, with Ely in the lead role.
The St. Louis native earned the role through an insatiable desire to find his culinary voice cooking at the erstwhile An American Place, then around the world, from Hong Kong to Copenhagen. Before moving back to St. Louis a little over two years ago, Ely did stints at such highly regarded restaurants as New York’s Blue Hill and Chicago’s North Pond.
But how does a flat broke, passionate chef with a head full of ideas open a restaurant on his own terms? For Ely, the best, and most affordable, avenue was running a series of underground dinners to test those ideas. His aptly named Square1 Project gained notoriety not only for the shock value of incorporating ingredients like bull penis, green weaver ants and fermented yeast, but also for his philosophy of ecologically friendly dining, using the tasting menu structure as a way to control costs and waste. Ely prefers vegetables and seafood and relies on less energy-consuming methods like dehydration, induction burners (the only fire you’ll see is a blowtorch used to char and caramelize) and fermentation and preservation (evidenced by the crocks of vinegars made from leftover wine).
Savage is Square1 made permanent with a tamer, more approachable, albeit no less seductive, menu. There is no puffed, fried bull penis on the plate during my visit. Instead there’s a beet chicharrón, a fantastical take on chips and dip made from pureed, dried beets, deep-fried into a craggy, crackling, crimson puff served with whipped sour milk and chives. From there, the show progresses at the pace of a sensual promenade rather than a rushed parade of dishes to gulp down before the next one arrives – three hours
and 12 dazzling courses. A small staff of servers explains each course – impressively delicious and beautifully plated on dishes made by a local ceramist – with a refreshing lack of pomp or preciousness.
Throughout the evening, the tall, seriouslooking Ely hunches over the center island as he and three cooks methodically prepare and assemble with the precision of origami artists, as we, their rapt audience, watch. When Ely does step away from the center island, it feels more like he’s breaking the fourth wall than delivering a dish to diners.
Ely’s challenge with the concept – there’s a six-course option, a 12-course option or a four-course snacking menu – is to keep us interested with exciting flavors, textures, scents and temperatures so our palates don’t get bored midway through the experience. I am particularly
enamored by how artfully arranged every impeccable dish looks – spheres, cubes, foams, petals and crumbles. The color of a green tomato, cored and shaped like a flower petal, capped with bits of clam and drizzled with pale green herbed oil, pops against the rustic texture of its plate; a single asparagus accented by a squiggle of creamy egg yolk in a celery root-mussel foam is a study in the various shades of green.
I love the fish. The delicate flavor of a rectangle of baked fluke is enhanced by a miso crust atop a dollop of beurre blanc bolstered by kombu seaweed, adding a subtle mushroomlike savoriness. The firm texture of raw spot prawn comes with bursts of roe accompanied by paper-thin brined cucumber and emulsified cucumber, accenting the natural sweetness of the shrimp.
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Where 2655 Ann Ave., St. Louis, 314.354.8488, savagestl.com
Vibe Edison lighting, black walls and exposed brick evoke both a subdued speakeasy and industrial starkness, while candles inside and out emphasize the casual, welcoming vibe.
Prices
savage
dishes
logan
savage
Six-course dinner
tasting
menu: $55;
12-course:
$75
When Wed. to Sat. –Noon to 4 p.m.; 5 to 9:30 p.m.
carrot cake ball
at savage chef-owner
ely in the kitchen at
As the night progresses, incongruences prove harmonious. Lightly braised squid cut into fettuccine-width strands top a spoonful of funky fermented potato mousse freckled by seaweed crumbles has me wondering why until two bites later –oh, that’s why. Slow-cooking an apple for two weeks sounds ridiculous until I taste the concentrated sweetness and jammy texture of the gala, which is served whole and flecked with a “pie crust” crumble.
Equally inspired drink pairings are available for each tasting option. A creamy, rich Italian white sparkling and sublime dry Madeira bookend a couple ciders, a Belgian wit, a bubbly gamay and a remarkable, rarely
available chardonnay from Beaujolais. The full wine selection includes interesting, quirky wines from the Canary Islands, the Finger Lakes and Slovenia.
Lunch – a set a-la-carte menu of five dishes for $7 each – is just as good. That fluke and kombu beurre blanc showed up again, this time with olives and green tomatoes. It still impressed, inspiring my colleague to demand the kitchen feature the beurre blanc more often. Flakes of dried fish punctuated a salad of red romaine and white asparagus with umami funk while a bit of mild, house-made goat cheese went a long way to smooth the bright acidity of a bowl with pickled cucumbers, daikon and yellow beets.
The menu explains the name Savage refers to the restaurant’s commitment to looking to the past for ingredients and techniques, bringing out textures and flavors with less manipulation and more natural methods. Savor might be a more accurate name with fewer negative associations, were it not already associated with a nowdefunct local restaurant. But I have no notes for the ideas themselves. After putting my faith in Ely’s philosophy throughout 12 courses, all those Willy Wonka references – quotes on the menu, photos in the bathroom –make sense. Wonka, after all, was an uncompromising visionary who valued pure imagination.
lola jean’s giveback coffee
BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee, sister restaurant to neighboring Russell’s on Macklind, is an inviting cafe with a mission: the restaurant donates all proceeds to nonprofits like Big Brothers Big Sisters. But that’s not the only reason to go. A bright mural of lemons backdrops the laidback, kid-friendly space, and, on warm days, the back patio teems with patrons. The menu is as fun and approachable as the decor, featuring well-executed takes on classic lunch fare prepared by chef-owner Russell Ping. It’s tempting to linger all day.
Roasted Turkey Sandwich
Served cold between two massive slices of country white bread, this is a straightforward and delicious turkey sandwich. Ping has fun with the house-made aioli, which offers a tinge of sweetness from powdered sugar added to imitate Miracle Whip. The rest of the sandwich is textbook: giant slices of moist turkey, a huge cut of gloriously red beefsteak tomato seasoned with just the right amount of salt and pepper, and a crisp layer of iceberg lettuce.
Breakfast Burrito
Served all day, there is no reason to miss the plump breakfast burrito. Along with fluffy scrambled eggs, it’s stuffed with a mound of rich carnitas cooked overnight in a southwestern rub, shredded and brought to crispy heaven on a flattop. Pickled jalapeno and serrano peppers add tartness and a hint of heat, while a chipotle-lime aioli and shredded white cheddar bring a zesty, creamy element. The hearty burrito is wrapped in a thick flour tortilla and seared on a panini press.
Braised Chicken Thigh Baguette
Moist, tender chicken braised in white wine with celery, onion, rosemary, thyme and garlic is the centerpiece of this outstanding sandwich. The sumptuous, shredded thigh meat is piled high on a hot and crusty baguette along with a slice of melted Swiss and
finished with a generous slather of house-made aioli and a rich green olive tapenade – the ideal pair for the delicate chicken.
Chopped Salad
This is the superstar of Lola Jean’s menu. Thick pieces of bacon are generous and flavorful, fresh cherry tomatoes burst with snappy perfection, nutty toasted sunflower seeds warm you like sunshine and a hard-boiled egg adds substance. But the real workhorse is the basil vinaigrette – a fresh and flavorful amalgamation of basil, honey, red wine vinegar, salt, pepper and olive oil that seeps onto every delicious forkful.
the new york strip loin sandwich
lola jean’s chopped salad
Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee 5400 Nottingham Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9903, lolajeans coffee.com the dining room at lola jean’s
New York Strip
Loin Sandwich
New York strip loin is roasted medium-rare, then sliced and seared on a hot flattop for this carnivorepleasing sandwich. Layered with white cheddar, sweet pickled shallots and a creamy, rich horseradish Dijon on Breadsmith sourdough, the sandwich is buttered and finished on a hot panini press.
The Downside
This popular spot is absolutely slammed Saturdays and Sundays, making getting a table nearly impossible. It can also be hard to make a carryout order over the phone – I’ve let it ring without anyone picking up and been left on hold until the call disconnected. Weekday afternoons offer a much better chance to sit back and enjoy this vibrant, easygoing cafe.
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LUNCH RUSH
LUNCH RUSH
breakfast burrito
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wellspent brewing co. in midtown
inviting space that encourages lingering with both human and canine buddies.
who like to try a little bit of everything. The bartenders will, however, offer you tastes before you commit to a full pour.
wellspent brewing co.
BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK NIGHTLIFE
Wellspent Brewing Co. is working hard to be a Midtown gathering space for all. The brewery has been pouring lagers, sours and Belgian-style beers since last March, and has developed an impressive list of events targeting everyone from science nerds to sports nuts and families.
Something fun (and usually free) is going on nearly every day. Events change seasonally, but trivia on Wednesday, cornhole league on Thursday and movie night on Friday are current
mainstays. Whether the events draw a crowd is hit-or-miss (it seems there are always a few Saint Louis University students hanging around), but it’s clear co-owners Kyle and Angela Kohlmorgen are always thinking of new ways to get people in the door.
The brewery is situated in an old abandoned movie theater, its long, narrow shape and gilded plaster marquees hinting at the past. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the front open up what could be a dark and claustrophobic space. Crisp, black-andwhite decor makes the
space bright and modern, with a minimalistic yet welcoming look. Long, narrow communal tables bring some intimacy to the set-up, and the bar is like a hipster reimagining of a midcentury soda fountain with shiny chrome, black accents and the bar wall tiled in a handsome British racing green.
Outside, there’s a large patio with picnic tables, string lights and a small, grassy yard for cornhole. When it’s warm, Friday night movies are projected onto one of the patio’s brick walls. It’s an
the buck belgian-style single
But the beers are why you’re here. Kyle was a celebrated St. Louis homebrewer before launching the professional brewery. Start by trying his Pilsner, an unfiltered lager with a light floral aroma from dry-hopping. The clean taste of a good lager isn’t easy to pull off, but Wellspent manages it beautifully. The Buck, a Belgianstyle single, has a yeasty nose with slight hints of clove and banana. Like the Pilsner, it’s smooth, easy-drinking and simple in the best possible way. Superhero Theme Music, Wellspent’s session stout, is lacking a bit in complexity but has nice notes of strong-brewed coffee and a creamy finish.
the patio at wellspent
The Tamale Man, a family-run farmers market favorite, provides Wellspent’s food menu. Handmade pork, veggie and vegan black bean tamales come out wrapped in foil and accompanied by a side of spicy green salsa. Each one is hefty, the cornhusk enveloping a thick layer of creamy masa and savory fillings. A few snacks are also available, including Billy Goat Chips.
Wellspent Brewing Co. 2917 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.328.0505, wellspentbeer. com
Although Belgian-style brews are the focus, Wellspent always has cider, but no wine or cocktails. For a brewery so laser-focused on beer, however, I was surprised Wellspent was out of multiple house brews on consecutive visits. There is also no flight available, which may irk those
With solid Belgian-style beers and a grade-A patio, Wellspent is the perfect place to kick back and enjoy the good life.
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NIGHTLIFE
the tamale man’s tamales
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from left, sugarfire smoke house and hi-pointe drive-in chef-owner mike johnson with employees heather dougherty, laron richards, melanie pritchett, veronica schuster, kat wallace and adam pritchett
your favorite places to eat
Favorite New Restaurant of 2018 YELLOWBELLY
4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.499.1509, yellowbellystl.com
2nd: Billie-Jean
3rd: The Chocolate Pig, The Clover and the Bee (tie) Honorable Mentions: Carnivore, Cinder House
Favorite Restaurant SUGARFIRE SMOKE HOUSE
Various locations, sugarfiresmokehouse.com
2nd: Peacemaker Lobster & Crab
3rd: Olive + Oak
Honorable Mention: Eleven Eleven Mississippi, Grace Meat + Three
Chef of the Year
MATT GLICKERT, SUGARFIRE 44
932 Meramec Station Road, Valley Park, 636.825.1400, sugarfiresmokehouse.com
2nd: Michael Gallina, Vicia
3rd: Rick Lewis, Grace Meat + Three
Honorable Mentions: Jesse Mendica, Olive + Oak; Nick Bognar, Nippon Tei
Favorite Fine Dining OLIVE + OAK
102 W. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.736.1370, oliveandoakstl.com
2nd: Sidney Street Cafe
3rd: Louie, Tony’s (tie) Honorable Mentions: Polite Society, Vicia
Favorite Diner SOUTHWEST DINER
6803 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.260.7244, southwestdinerstl.com
2nd: Uncle Bill’s Pancake and Dinner House 3rd: City Diner
Honorable Mentions: Chris’ Pancake & Dining, Courtesy Diner
Favorite Food Truck SEOUL TACO FOOD TRUCK Twitter: @seoultaco
2nd: Mission Taco Truck 3rd: Guerrilla Street Food
Honorable Mentions: Balkan Treat Box, Sarah’s Cake Stop
Favorite Deli/ Sandwich Shop BLUES CITY DELI
2438 McNair Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.8225, bluescitydeli.com
2nd: Gioia’s Deli
3rd: Mom’s Deli
Honorable Mentions: Adriana’s on The Hill, The Gramophone
Favorite Barbecue SUGARFIRE SMOKE HOUSE
Various locations, sugarfiresmokehouse.com
2nd: Pappy’s Smokehouse
3rd: Salt + Smoke
Honorable Mentions: Beast Craft BBQ Co., Bogart’s Smokehouse
Favorite Sushi NIPPON TEI
14025 Manchester Road, Ballwin, 636.386.8999, nippon.teistl.com
2nd: Drunken Fish
3rd: Wasabi Sushi Bar Honorable Mentions: BLK MKT Eats, Sushi Ai
Favorite Steakhouse
ANNIE GUNN’S
16806 Chesterfield Airport Road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684, anniegunns.com
2nd: Tucker’s Place
3rd: Twisted Tree Steakhouse Honorable Mentions: 1818
Chophouse, Citizen Kane’s Steak House
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IZAIAH JOHNSON
PHOTO BY
Favorite Pizza Place PEEL WOOD FIRED PIZZA
Various locations, peelpizza.com
2nd: Imo’s Pizza
3rd: Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria
Honorable Mentions: Pi Pizzeria, Pirrone’s Pizzeria
Favorite Brunch SHACK BREAKFAST & LUNCH
Various locations, eatatshack.com
2nd: Hendel’s Restaurant, Rooster (tie)
3rd: Half & Half
Honorable Mentions: Brasserie By Niche, Egg
Favorite Italian CHARLIE GITTO’S ON THE HILL, CUNETTO HOUSE OF PASTA (TIE)
5226 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8898, charliegittos.com; 5453 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.781.1135, cunetto.com
2nd: Pastaria
3rd: Zia’s on The Hill
Honorable Mentions: Anthonino’s Taverna, Trattoria Marcella
Favorite Chinese MAI LEE
8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, 314.645.2835, maileestl.com
2nd: Lona’s Lil Eats
3rd: China King
Honorable Mentions: Lu Lu
Seafood & Dim Sum, Wang Gang Asian Eats
Favorite Fried Chicken HODAK’S RESTAURANT & BAR
2100 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.7292, hodaks.com
2nd: Southern
3rd: Grace Meat + Three
Honorable Mentions: Byrd & Barrel, King Edward’s Chicken & Fish
Favorite Chicken Wings SYBERG’S
Various locations, sybergs.com
2nd: Sugarfire Smoke House
3rd: Peel Wood Fired Pizza
Honorable Mentions: Grace Meat + Three, Southtown Pub
Favorite Burger HI-POINTE DRIVE-IN
1033 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.349.2720; 634 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.405.8274, hipointedrivein.com
2nd: Mac’s Local Eats, Stacked STL (tie)
3rd: O’Connell’s Pub
Honorable Mentions: Carl’s Drive-In, The Dam
thebenevolentking.com
2nd: Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant
3rd: African Palace Bar & Grill
Honorable Mentions: Simba
Ugandan Restaurant, Ye Ethiopian Restaurant
Favorite Cajun/Creole BROADWAY OYSTER BAR
736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com
2nd: Gulf Shores Restaurant & Grill
3rd: Boogaloo
Honorable Mentions: Evangeline’s Bistro & Music House, Sister Cities Cajun
Favorite Indian HIMALAYAN YETI
Favorite Frozen Dessert TED DREWES FROZEN CUSTARD
6726 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.481.2652; 4224 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.352.7376, teddrewes.com
2nd: Clementine’s Naughty and Nice Creamery
3rd: Fritz’s Frozen Custard
Honorable Mentions: The Fountain on Locust, Ices Plain & Fancy
Favorite Tacos MISSION TACO JOINT
Various locations, missiontacojoint.com
2nd: Seoul Taco
3rd: Taco Circus
Honorable Mentions: Chava’s Mexican Restaurant, Las Fuentes Mexican Restaurant
Favorite Mexican EL MAGUEY
Various locations, elmagueystl.com
2nd: Hacienda Mexican Restaurant
3rd: El Burro Loco
Honorable Mentions: Mi Ranchito, Rosalita’s Cantina
Favorite African THE BENEVOLENT KING
7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0440,
2nd: Aya Sofia
3rd: Layla
Honorable Mentions: The Vine Lebanese Cuisine & Juice Bar, Café Natasha’s
Favorite Soul Food/ Southern GRACE MEAT + THREE
4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.2700, stlgrace.com
2nd: Sweetie Pie’s Upper Crust
3rd: Southern Honorable Mentions: Juniper, Mom’s Soul Food Kitchen
Favorite Thai KING AND I THAI
3157 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.1777, kingandistl.com
3515 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.354.8338, himalayanyetistlouis.com
2nd: House of India
3rd: Everest Café & Bar Honorable Mentions: India Palace, Rasoi
Favorite Korean SEOUL TACO
6665 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.863.1148; 46 Four Seasons Shopping Center, Chesterfield, 314.548.6868, seoultaco.com
2nd: Kimchi Guys
3rd: Seoul Garden
Honorable Mentions: K-Bop Food Truck, Oriental Spoon
Favorite Greek OLYMPIA KEBOB HOUSE AND TAVERNA
1543 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.781.1299, olympiakebobandtavern.com
2nd: Spiro’s Restaurant 3rd: Michael’s Bar & Grill
Honorable Mentions: Anthonino’s Taverna, My Big Fat Greek Truck
Favorite Mediterranean/ Middle Eastern BALKAN TREAT BOX
8103 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.733.5700, balkantreatbox.com
2nd: Fork & Stix
3rd: Pearl Café
Honorable Mentions:
Pad Thai St. Louis, Thai House
Favorite Vietnamese MAI LEE
8396 Musick Memorial Drive, Brentwood, 314.645.2835, maileestl.com
2nd: Pho Grand
3rd: Lemon Grass Restaurant Honorable Mentions: Banh Mi So No. 1, Little Saigon Cafe
Favorite Ramen NUDO HOUSE
11423 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, 314.274.8046, nudohousestl.com
2nd: Robata
3rd: The Blue Ocean Honorable Mentions: Nami Ramen, Ramen Tei
Favorite Vegetarian/Vegan LULU’S LOCAL EATERY
3201 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.300.8215, luluslocaleatery.com
2nd: Lona’s Lil Eats
3rd: Small Batch
Whiskey & Fare, Tree House (tie) Honorable Mentions: Pizza Head, Urban Eats Cafe
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the lobster turnovers at your favorite romantic spot, sidney street cafe
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
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Favorite Patio
JOHN D. MCGURK’S IRISH PUB AND GARDEN
1200 Russell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.8309, mcgurks.com
2nd: The Boathouse at Forest Park
3rd: Billy G’s Kirkwood
Honorable Mentions: Broadway Oyster Bar, Vin de Set
Favorite Romantic Spot SIDNEY STREET CAFE
2000 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.771.5777, sidneystreetcafestl.com
2nd: Bar Les Frères
3rd: Louie, Cinder House (tie)
Honorable Mentions:
Olive + Oak, Tony’s
your favorite places to drink
Bartender of the Year TED KILGORE, PLANTER’S HOUSE
1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershouse.com
your
2nd: Morgaine Segura, Olive + Oak
3rd: Terry Oliver, Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge
Honorable Mentions: Tim Wiggins, Yellowbelly; Tony Saputo, The Midwestern Meat & Drink
Favorite Cocktails PLANTER’S HOUSE
1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com
2nd: Olive + Oak
3rd: Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge, Taste (tie)
Honorable Mentions: Blood & Sand, Narwhal’s Crafted
Favorite Brewery 4 HANDS BREWING CO.
1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com
2nd: Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.
3rd: Schlafly Honorable Mentions: 2nd Shift Brewing, Civil Life Brewing Co.
Favorite Local Winery
GRAFTON WINERY & BREWHAUS
300 W. Main St., Grafton, 618.786.3001, thegraftonwinery.com
2nd: Chandler Hill Vineyards
3rd: Cedar Lake Cellars
Honorable Mentions: Montelle Winery, St. James Winery
Favorite Beer Bar
THREE KINGS PUBLIC HOUSE
Various locations, threekingspub.com
2nd: International Tap House
3rd: The Side Project Cellar Honorable Mentions: Gezellig, Global Brew Tap House
Favorite Wine Bar
SASHA’S WINE BARS
706 Demun Ave., St. Louis, 314.863.7274; 4069 Shaw Blvd., St. Louis, 314.771.7274, sashaswinebar.com
2nd: Cork Wine Bar
3rd: Robust Wine Bar and Cafe
Honorable Mentions: 33 Wine Shop & Bar, Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar
Favorite Games Bar
WESTPORT SOCIAL
910 Westport Plaza Drive, Maryland Heights, 314.548.2876, westportsocial-stl.com
2nd: Blueberry Hill 3rd: Parlor
Honorable Mentions: Pieces, Start Bar
Favorite Pub
JOHN D. MCGURK’S IRISH PUB AND GARDEN
1200 Russell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.8309, mcgurks.com
2nd: The Scottish Arms Public House
3rd: Llywelyn’s Pub
Honorable Mentions: O’Connell’s Pub, Seamus McDaniel’s
Favorite Sports Bar
SYBERG’S
Various locations, sybergs.com 2nd: Amsterdam Tavern
3rd: The Post Sports Bar & Grill
Honorable Mentions: Billy G’s Kirkwood, Mattingly’s
Favorite Coffee Shop
KALDI’S COFFEE ROASTING CO.
Various locations, kaldiscoffee.com
2nd: The Mud House
3rd: Park Avenue Coffee
Honorable Mentions: Blueprint Coffee, Sump Coffee
Favorite Happy Hour
MISSION TACO JOINT
Various locations, missiontacojoint.com
2nd: Frazer’s Restaurant & Lounge
3rd: Helen Fitzgerald’s Irish Grill & Pub
Honorable Mentions: Basso, Three Kings Public House
your favorite places to shop
Favorite Butcher Shop
KENRICK’S MEATS & CATERING
4324 Weber Road, St. Louis, 314.631.2440, kenricks.com
2nd: Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions
3rd: G & W Meat & Bavarian Style Sausage Co.
Honorable Mentions: LeGrand’s Market, Mannino’s Market
Favorite Bread
UNION LOAFERS CAFÉ AND BREAD BAKERY
1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com
2nd: Companion
3rd: Amighetti’s Bakery & Cafe
Honorable Mentions: Missouri Baking Co., Vitale’s Bakery
Favorite Cakes/Pastries NATHANIEL REID BAKERY 11243 Manchester Road, Kirkwood, 314.858.1019, nrbakery.com
2nd: Jilly’s Cupcake Bar 3rd: La Patisserie Chouquette Honorable Mentions: Missouri Baking Co., Russell’s on Macklind
Favorite Doughnut Shop OLD TOWN DONUTS
508 N. New Florissant Road, Florissant, 314.831.0907, oldtowndonuts.com
2nd: Strange Donuts
3rd: Donut Drive-In Honorable Mentions: Vincent Van Doughnut, World’s Fair Donuts
Favorite Farmers Market
SOULARD FARMERS MARKET
730 Carroll St., St. Louis, 314.622.4180, soulardmarket.com
2nd: Tower Grove Farmers’ Market
3rd: Ferguson Farmers Market Honorable Mentions: Kirkwood Farmers Market, Land of Goshen Community Market
Favorite Local Grocery DIERBERGS
Various locations, dierbergs.com
2nd: Schnucks
3rd: Straub’s Honorable Mentions: DiGregorio’s Italian Market, Global Foods Market
Favorite Specialty Shop
CROWN CANDY KITCHEN
1401 Saint Louis Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.9650, crowncandykitchen.net
2nd: Bob’s Seafood 3rd: Volpi Foods Honorable Mentions: Bissinger’s Handcrafted Chocolatier, Kakao Chocolate
Favorite Bottle Shop
RANDALL’S WINES & SPIRITS
Various locations, shoprandalls.com
2nd: The Wine & Cheese Place
3rd: Lukas Wine & Spirits, Saint Louis Hop Shop (tie) Honorable Mentions: Intoxicology, The Wine Merchant
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PHOTO BY VIRGINIA HAROLD
favorite patio and pub, john d. mcgurk’s irish pub and garden
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Oysters & Pearls
“This is one of Richard Blais’ signature dishes. I really enjoy this dish because it’s playful. Raw oysters are something I love. Getting a good West Coast-style oyster with any kind of horseradish-based sauce is just classic.”
favorite new restaurant
YELLOWBELLY
Wu-Tang Clams
“It’s such a flavor bomb. Wu-Tang clams ain’t nothin’ to shuck with. We wanted something that was really bold. We got some really great Pamplona chorizo, sake, cabbages, natural brininess from the clams. It’s a money dish.”
Charred carrots
“I’m a veg lover. When I go to a restaurant, that tends to be what I crave. These are butter-roasted carrots that just melt in your mouth. They have a nice umami to them because of the eel sauce, and great char. It just pops. To me, this dish is signature Yellowbelly.”
Yellowbelly’s vibrant design and relaxed atmosphere will hook you, but it’s the dazzling, seafood-heavy menu that will reel you in. With the help of consulting chef Richard Blais, Yellowbelly owners Travis Howard and Tim Wiggins created an exotic getaway in the heart of the Central West End. “Yes, we are island-inspired,” said chef de cuisine Kate Wagoner. “But, really, we’re just trying to find flavors that are exciting and pack a punch.” Here are five of Wagoner’s favorite plates at your Favorite New Restaurant, Yellowbelly. – Adam Rothbarth
4659 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.449.1509, yellowbellystl.com
Avocado toast
“Our avocado toast is crazy popular. We get our bread from Union Loafers, make a normal avocado mash, then a lomi lomi, which is a marinated salmon that we mix with our house pico. We top it with a mango yolk, which oozes just like a fresh, runny egg.”
Seared salmon with Spam fried rice
“It’s my absolute favorite large plate that we have. We have our house-pickled shiitakes in there, and then we take our salmon and basically make a sauce with eggs and tamari and sear it in that mixture, so it makes a pancake-like consistency on the salmon. It has an amazing texture.”
June 2019 PHOTOS BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
BURGER SPECTRUM
A BURGER IS NEVER JUST A BURGER.
A burger is a canvas where one can act out their most insane culinary fantasies or push traditional ideas to heavenly perfection. No condiment is off limits, and no topping is faux pas while, at the same time, few are required with a perfectly cooked patty, as this year’s Readers’ Choice winners prove.
On one end of the spectrum, we find bombastic, culture-blending concoctions measured by how many flavors can be packed vertically into a leaning tower of madness. Here, Hi-Pointe Drive-In reigns supreme with menu items like the Arch D-Lux – a double burger, American cheese, pepper bacon, ketchup, D-Lux sauce, LTOP (lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle) and a sesame seed bun –and specials like the Sweet Baby Cheesus, which contains a double cheeseburger, bacon, fried egg and LTOP between two grilled cheese sandwiches. Also toward the more extreme end is Stacked STL, where burgers like the En Fuego overlook the competition from above with pepper jack cheese, crispy jalapenos, roasted corn guacamole and chipotle aioli.
On the quieter side lies O’Connell’s Pub, whose burger list contains two options: hamburger and cheeseburger. O’Connell’s beloved
burgers come with minimal toppings and have a backyard cookout feel, right down to the paper plates they’re served on. Also on this end is Mac’s Local Eats, which blows minds with its classic burger, available with one, two, three or four patties and sporting only ketchup, mustard, pickles, onion and American cheese. To be sure, Mac’s has some pretty wild options as well (check out the Dirty Sancho), but the classic double is its most popular, according to owner Chris “Mac” McKenzie.
The extra: Hi-Pointe Drive-In’s St. Lunatic Burger
“The biggest reach we did was probably the St. Lunatic burger. We actually did that out of St. Charles at Sugarfire, but that’s probably the craziest burger we’ve ever done. It got like 1,500 shares [on Facebook] in an hour or something like that. We did a regular bacon cheeseburger, but we made everything St. Louis, so we put a barbecue pork steak on it, toasted ravioli, Provel cheese sauce and then we used Imo’s pizzas for buns.” – executive chef Adam Pritchett
The archetype: Mac’s Local Eats’ Classic Double
“What we do is dry-age the cow, the whole thing, for four weeks. And then they turn the
June 2019
SPECTRUM
BY ADAM
whole cow into ground beef. All of the meat: the chuck, the rib, the short loin, the tenderloin. I always look at it like if you go to another burger joint, a lot of times, it’s about the stack of flavors. You’ve got some goat cheese, some sauteed onions, whatever. But here, we’re trying to complement the meat and let the meat stand on its own. Toppings are great and everything, but the truth is … just get a cheeseburger. It’s so damn good. Just a cheeseburger.” – chef-owner Chris “Mac” McKenzie
First Place
Hi-Pointe Drive-In 1033 McCausland Ave., St. Louis, 314.349.2720, hipointedrivein.com
Second Place (Tie)
Mac’s Local Eats
1227 Tamm Ave., St. Louis, 314.479.8155, macslocaleats.com
Second Place (Tie)
Stacked STL
7637 Ivory Ave., St. Louis, 314.544.4900, stackedstl.com
Third Place
O’Connell’s Pub
4652 Shaw Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.6600, Facebook: O’Connell’s Pub
Honorable Mentions
Carl’s Drive-In, carlsdrivein.com The Dam, thedamstl.com
June 2019
ROTHBARTH // PHOTOS BY JULIA CALLEO
44 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com June 2019
restaurant
SUGARFIRE SMOKE HOUSE
There’s a reason Sugarfire Smoke House has become synonymous with St. Louis barbecue. It won Favorite Barbecue and Favorite Restaurant, and Sugarfire 44 catering and events chef Matt Glickert was voted Chef of the Year Here’s what it takes to keep the smoke rolling, by the numbers. – Lauren Healey Sugarfire Smoke House, various locations, sugarfiresmokehouse.com employees
650 gallons barbecue sauce sold last year
44 smokers shakes sold last year
850 miles
40,000 between the Olivette flagship and the Westminster, Colorado, franchise location
6 years in business
6 to 10
110 Meat smoked daily: sandwiches served daily
60,000+
51,389 people follow all Sugarfire locations on Instagram
3,000
June 2019 saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45 tons wood used per year
required per
napkins
plate
lbs. brisket
lbs. pork
lbs. ribs 1,200 lbs. turkey 250 lbs. sausage
5,000
2,400
1,600
PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN your favorite
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favorite local winery
GRAFTON WINERY & BREWHAUS
Taking in the picturesque view of the Mississippi River from the sprawling second story patio area, you won’t question why Grafton Winery & Brewhaus won Readers’ Choice Favorite Local Winery. With award-winning wines, a microbrewery and a restaurant, the winery has something for everyone. Grafton’s Vineyards location, with four acres of
vines and a fire pit overlooking a lake, offers a more traditional wine picnic setting for whiling away the day with a glass of vino year-round.
Winery & Brewhaus, 300 W. Main St.; The Vineyards, 21028 Eckert Orchard Road, Grafton, Illinois, 618.786.3001, thegraftonwinery.com
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PHOTO COURTESY OF GRAFTON WINERY & BREWHAUS
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THE GREAT SLINGER DEBATE
By Adam Rothbarth
To quote Southwest Diner co-owner Jonathan Jones: “A diner in St. Louis has to have a slinger.” It may not be as controversial, but the slinger has earned its place alongside Provel-topped pizza and breadsliced bagels as one of St. Louis’ most debated dishes. A classic slinger usually comprises eggs, meat, potato, chili and cheese. However, once you get into the hard-and-fast details, nothing is certain. As far as toppings go, the chili versus gravy argument has long separated the dish’s most passionate supporters. While torrents of chili dress the slingers at most local diners, Jones defends Southwest’s use of gravy with a simple question: “Um, have you had our gravy?”
Here’s how your five Readers’ Choice Favorite Diners handle the slinger.
First Place
Southwest Diner
6803 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.260.7244, southwestdinerstl.com
Sitting at No. 1 in the Favorite Diner category, Southwest brings a unique (and often spicy) take on numerous breakfast staples. Its Southwest Slinger features two quarter-pound burger patties, home fries, melted longhorn cheese, two eggs and red or green chilies. Notice that actual chili is absent here. You mad? Get over it – for two bucks, you can add homemade sausage gravy (and you definitely should).
Second Place
Uncle Bill’s Pancake and Dinner House
3427 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.832.1973, ubpancakes.com
Open 24 hours a day since 1961, Uncle Bill’s is the spot that everyone
and their parents (and grandparents) know. A very traditional take, the Sling Shot features hash browns, a burger, two eggs, chili and two pieces of American cheese. And that’s perfect, because let’s be real – nobody wants a weird slinger a 3 a.m.
Third Place
City Diner
3139 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.6100, citydinerstl.com
With a massive menu featuring everything from huevos rancheros to Philly cheesesteak to liver and
onions, there’s something at City Diner for everyone. If you’re here for the slinger, you can look forward to two eggs, pork sausage, hash browns, chili and cheddar.
Honorable Mention
Courtesy Diner
Various locations, courtesydiner.com
If you haven’t eaten a slinger at Courtesy Diner between the hours of 1 and 5 a.m., you’ve missed the quintessential St. Louis late-night experience. The efficiently titled Slinger has two eggs, hash browns, hamburger and chili. There’s no
cheese, but it’s available as an addon. (Pro tip: Don’t forget Courtesy Diner is cash-only.)
Honorable Mention
Chris’ Pancake and Dining
5980 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.645.2088, chrispancakeanddining.com
Definitely the most out-there concoction, Chris’ slinger is more like a mutant egg dish – in a cool way. The Slinger Stuffed Omelet contains jalapeno, onion, smoked brisket, hash browns and cheddar, all topped with chili.
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PHOTOS BY JULIA CALLEO
the southwest slinger at southwest diner
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from top, aloo matar, chicken tikka masala and navratan korma
One of the most popular ways to experience your Favorite Indian restaurant is Himalayan Yeti’s $10 lunch buffet. Full of crowd-pleasing classics –tandoori chicken, dal soup, tikka masala, palak paneer – the buffet allows you to enjoy more than a dozen north Indian and Nepalese dishes for less than as many dollars. – Heather Hughes
3515 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.354.8338, himalayanyetistlouis.com
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favorite indian HIMALAYAN YETI
himalayan yeti owner prem prasai
PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
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JUNE
BY DARIAN STEVENSON
Ginworld Gin Festival
June 2 – noon to 4 p.m., Mad Art Gallery, 2727 S. 12th St., St. Louis, 314.771.8230, madart.com
Start Sunday Funday with a taste of gin at the Ginworld Gin Festival. The event is packed with workshops, educational seminars, botanical activities, more than 100 gins to sample and more than 50 distillers from around the country. A bloody mary bar and an Aperol spritz cart are also on hand. Tickets available online and at the door.
International Horseradish Festival
June 7 – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; June 8 – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Main Street between Seminary Street and IL-159, Collinsville, 618.344.2884, internationalhorseradishfestival.com
Enjoy a day in downtown Collinsville at the free International Horseradish Festival. Purchase brews, wine and cocktails, along with food like horseradish walking tacos, smoked wings and pizza while grooving to live music. Learn how to prepare horseradish, then bring the kids to Craft Village or the Family Fun Area for carnival games and more.
Sample Soulard Sunday
June 9 – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Soulard, St. Louis, historicsoulard.com
Tour historic Soulard while sampling fare like tacos, sliders and jambalaya from more than 20 restaurants and bars like Mission Taco Joint, Bogart’s Smokehouse and 1860 Saloon. Admission includes six food tickets and one drink ticket for a beer. Ten percent of proceeds benefit Habitat for Humanity St. Louis. Tickets available online and at participating businesses the day of the event.
Pie Guy Pizza Class
June 16 – 5 to 7 p.m., Pie Guy Pizza, 4189 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0444, pieguystl.com
Hand toss dough and drink beer while learning how to create Pie Guy-style salads, garlic knots and pizza. Admission includes a complimentary beer, tossing lessons from Pie Guy owner Mitch Frost, as well as pizza dough and sauce recipes. Tickets available online.
denotes a sauce-sponsored event
Criderfest
June 22 – noon to 4 p.m., 2nd Shift Brewing, 1601 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.669.9013, 2ndshiftbrewing.com
Sample a variety of brews during 2nd Shift Brewing’s Criderfest, which focuses on lagers this year. Enjoy tastings from more than 70 breweries like Wellspent Brewing Co. and White Rooster Farmhouse Brewery, plus Filipino fare for purchase from Guerrilla Street Food and St. Louis-style barbecue from Salt + Smoke. Tickets available online and at the 2nd Shift tasting room.
Saucy Soirée
June 23 – 5 to 8:30 p.m., Union Station, 1820 Market St., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucysoiree.com
Get ready for the best foodie event of the year, Saucy Soirée. Sauce Magazine’s annual Readers’ Choice grand tasting party features bites from St. Louis’ best culinary establishments. Sample unlimited food, beer, wine and spirits from more than 40 top restaurants, wineries and breweries while supplies last. Tickets available online and at the door.
SAUCE SPONSORED EVENTS
IndiHop
June 1 – 1 to 7 p.m., The Grove and Cherokee Street, St. Louis, indihopstl.com
Shuttle between The Grove and Cherokee Street to sample about 50 beers, enjoy live music and support small businesses. Tickets available online.
Food Truck Friday
June 7 – 4 to 8 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, 314.772.8004, saucefoodtruckfriday.com
Sample food from more than 20 trucks like Bombay Food Junkies and K-Bop STL. Sip local drinks from Narwhal’s Crafted, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 4 Hands Brewing Co. and Noboleis Vineyards as you enjoy live music from The Silver Arrows.
Central West End Cocktail Party
June 8 – 5 to 10 p.m., Central West End, St. Louis, cwescene.com
Celebrate the first documented cocktail party at this boozy festival featuring food and drinks from local restaurants like Mission Taco Joint, Gamlin Whiskey House, Brennan’s and more. Listen to live music while neighborhood bartenders battle it out in a cocktail competition.
Music & Wine Festival
June 8 – 5 to 10 p.m., Carondelet Plaza, downtown Clayton, claytonmo.gov
Enjoy an elegant evening filled with food, drink and dance. Check out vendors like Balducci Vineyards, Montelle Winery, Kingside Diner and Clementine’s Creamery while grooving to live music from Kim Massie and more during this free festival.
BBQ, Bikes & Blues Festival
June 29 – 1 to 7 p.m., Liberty Bank Amphitheater, 1 Riverfront Drive, Alton, 800.258.6645, libertybankamphitheater.com
Head to Alton for a day of smoked meats, motorcycles and live music. Sample barbecue from vendors like Capitalist Pig, Big Daddy’s and St. Louisiana Q, then check out hundreds of bikes and listen to the sounds of Kim Massie and Souvenir at this free event.
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J O E W E I N M A nn
The office at Kenrick’s Meats & Catering hums all day. Employees come and go, cracking jokes and trading jibes with the easy familiarity of people who’ve known each other for decades and, in some cases, their entire lives. In the center of it all sits the 70-year-old patriarch of this operation, Joe Weinmann (aka Joe the Butcher), giving as good as he gets. Founder Herb Kenrick launched his eponymous mobile butcher truck in 1945. Nearly 75 years later, your Favorite Butcher Shop sells far more than premium cuts of beef and pork. Kenrick’s has its own lines of proprietary spice rubs and barbecue sauces, fresh produce, a lunch counter, prepared grab-and-go meals and a catering business offering everything from barbecue to whole-hog roasts and shrimp boils. Kenrick’s was a family business when Weinmann bought it in 1975 and, if he has anything to say about it, it will be a family business long after he retires – not that he plans to do that anytime soon. – Catherine Klene
“I actually got started in 1968. I worked for a market called Cook’s Market. I was a bagboy when I was 16 years old. …. Mr. Cook asked me, ‘Joey, what are you going to do when you get out of high school?’ And my response was, ‘I’d like to be an apprentice butcher,’ and he goes, ‘OK ... when you get out of high school, you look me up.’ I went into the Army Reserves for six months, and [then] he kept his promise – he made me apprentice butcher.”
“Pete Vitale, who owned Kenrick’s at the time, told me he wanted to retire and try something else, and I told him I’d like to buy it. Basically, I put everything up. … I bought my first business for $15,000. … I was 25 years old. You’ll get a kick out of this – I bought it without telling my wife! I married my prom date, and she’s a wonderful lady, and she handled it extremely well.”
“I had the opportunity to meet [Herb Kenrick] before he passed away, he and his wife, and he was proud that we kept the name on it. It’s a little easier to say ‘Kenrick’ than it is to say ‘Weinmann,’ you know?”
“A couple who shop in here – I felt like the [holiday] M&M commercial – they go, ‘There is a Joe the Butcher!’ and you talk about feeling – I wish my father was still alive to see. They wanted an autograph from me!”
“In 1975, we had three kinds of sausages: Italian sausage, country sausage and bratwurst. Now we make varieties of everything – we probably do 5,000 pounds a week of our sausages.”
“For a radio station, guess what we made? Gummy bratwursts – gummy bears! … They were absolutely
terrible. … We don’t have to tell you where they hit. They hit the trashcans. And if something don’t meet our criteria, we work on it. Basically, we just keep going at it.”
“Take care of the customer, and they’ll keep coming back. We want to hear the good or the bad. Good, bad
or ugly because it means a lot. You want to correct. If someone ain’t happy with a product, you want to know and you want to correct it immediately.”
“It’s a family business. You know it’s going to stay that way. When I’m gone, these guys know it’s going to go forward. I had two
guys who wanted to buy me out, and I told them, ‘What about my employees?’ and they said, ‘What about your employees?’ And I said, ‘Well, Joe didn’t build this by himself.’ People working here put long hours in. It’s a team. You treat people good. That’s why we have longevity here. Family comes first.”
BY
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PHOTO
VIRGINIA HAROLD
Kenrick’s Meats & Catering, 4324 Weber Road, St. Louis, 314.631.2440, kenricks.com
LAST BITE // WHAT I DO
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HODAK’S RESTAURANT & BAR
BY ADAM ROTHBARTH
Its official name may be Hodak’s Restaurant & Bar, but we’ve always called it Hodak’s Fried Chicken. The restaurant has served some of St. Louis’ most coveted poultry since 1962 and has the accolades to prove it – including winning Favorite Fried Chicken in this year’s Readers’ Choice Poll. But nowhere is Hodak’s more beloved than in its own neighborhood, where chicken is a weekly ritual for more than a few Benton Park customers.
“A lot of them [come in] daily,” said Steve Connors, who has served as the restaurant’s bartender for almost three decades. “I’m surprised after all these years how many people come in three, four, five times a week. It’s very much the same clientele – two or three generations of their families have come here.”
Hodak’s itself was a family endeavor for many years. Tony Hodak opened it in ’62, then his son, also Tony Hodak, and daughters, Tillie Klaric and Flori Muich, ran it before they turned it over to current owner Charlene Hegel in 1989. Throughout its reign, Hodak’s has prided itself on getting the freshest ingredients; these days, the chicken arrives daily from Jones Poultry in Barry, Illinois. The bird is famous, but it isn’t the only treasured dish at Hodak’s. “The barbecue ribs are always a big favorite,” Connors said. “And those fried mushrooms. We bread them here in-house and fry ’em up and send ’em out. People rave about those.”
Hodak’s Restaurant & Bar, 2100 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.7292, hodaks.com
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LAST BITE // LANDMARK
PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
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