June 2024

JUNE 2024 • VOLUME 24, ISSUE 6

OWNER AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

MANAGING EDITOR

DIGITAL EDITOR

DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR

ART DIRECTOR

EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

STAFF WRITER CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER

DIRECTORS OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT EVENTS COORDINATOR PROOFREADER

Chris Keating

Meera Nagarajan

Iain Shaw

Lauren Healey

Michelle Volansky

Meera Nagarajan

Lauren Healey

Leah Clay-Downing, Zachary Linhares, Christina Musgrave, Meera Nagarajan, Michelle Volansky

Alexa Beattie

Alexa Beattie, Lauren Healey, Ileana Martinez, Meera Nagarajan, Iain Shaw, Michelle Volansky

Kelli Jones

Rachel Hoppman, Elizabeth Rowland

Amy Hyde

Heather Hughes-Huff

Sauce was founded by Allyson Mace in 1999.

To place advertisements in Sauce Magazine, contact the advertising department at 314.772.8004 or sales@saucemagazine.com.

The entire contents of Sauce Magazine are copyright 2024 by Big Lou Holdings, LLC. No portion may be reproduced in whole or in part by any means, including electronic retrieval systems, without the expressed written permission of the Publisher, Sauce Magazine, PO Box 430033, St. Louis, MO, 63143. Please call the Sauce office for back-issue information, 314-772-8004. The Sauce name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Big Lou Holdings, LLC. While

the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com.

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.

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3

HERBIE'S

Dinner:

Lunch: weekdays, 11-2

Happy Hour: weekdays, 2-6

Brunch: weekends, 10-2

E D I T O R S' PICKS

We expected to be impressed when we heard that Side Project Brewery in Maplewood was launching a food program in collaboration with Niche Food Group alum and former Pizza Champ and Elmwood co-owner Adam Altnether. With help from Heather Dorman (the pair having previously worked together at Elmwood), Altnether has created a tight menu of nuanced bar food that complements Side Project’s elevated approach to brewing. The Side Project burger is an obvious and unmissable starting point, and so good that you might be tempted to just keep ordering it on return visits. The burger’s two 4-ounce patties are topped with American cheese, caramelized onions and apple cider-Dijon aioli and served on a soft potato bun. The dense pile of thincut caramelized onions is the secret weapon here, a jammy paste that adds a touch of tart sweetness. The acid from the aioli brightens the overall flavor and primes you for the next bite, but not before dunking a few perfectly crispy fries into the accompanying mayo and ketchup dips. Visit on Mondays and get a free beer with your sandwich. Worth waiting 10 years for? Pretty much.

hit list 3 new places to try this month

taquitos at taqueria morita

TAQUERIA MORITA

Take Root Hospitality’s Taqueria Morita launched in 2022 as a warmweather pop-up concept on Vicia’s patio, then moved to Winslow’s Table for the colder months. Now, it finally has its own space in the Central West End – a casual spot offering walk-in seating only and ordering via QR code at your table. The smoked carrot tacos are delicious, with smokiness to the fore and an herbaceous charred tomatillo and dill salsa. The spicy pork carnitas tacos are topped with a viscous smoked habanero-pineapple sauce that balances sweetness and heat, along with pickled red onion and crispy chicharron for textural counterpoint. Margaritas may be the go-to choice here, but the La Fresa with gin, strawberry, guava, lime and club soda is a refreshing, lightly sweet sipper that complements the food well. For dessert, try the succulent coconut tres leches cake with mezcalpoached strawberry, toasted almonds and almond cremosa.

4239 Duncan Ave., St. Louis, 314.261.4551, taqueriamorita.com

opposite page: the bar at taqueria morita; this page, from top: from left, take root hospitality beverage director leila miller and culinary director aaron martinez; tres leches cake at taqueria morita

LOS CHAMOS RESTAURANT

This Venezuelan restaurant on the edge of the Bevo Mill neighborhood brings life back to the former Taft Street Restaurant & Bar. The dining room may feel like a space that is still in transition, but the new tenants have certainly asserted their identity in the kitchen with a menu dominated by delicious Venezuelan street food. The pabellon arepas adapt Venezuela’s national dish, pabellon criollo, for easy snacking. The traditional combination of stewed shredded beef, plantains and black beans is served here with cheese inside a crisp, freshly made pocket of corn-based dough. The pabellon can also be served in empanada form, or in its most classical presentation with rice. A number of other empanadas and arepas are offered, like the traditional domino filling of black beans and cheese. There are also Venezuelan streetstyle hamburgers, hot dogs and salchipapas (french fries topped with meat and doused with various sauces). Finally, the Sauce team will never turn down an opportunity to order tequenos in a Venezuelan restaurant, and these chewy, queso-filled sticks of fried dough – served with an avocado, cilantro and garlic salsa – are as good here as anywhere else.

4457 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, 314.328.1130, Instagram: loschamosrestaurantbar

GOOD COMPANY

Part cocktail bar, part gastropub, the Good Company experience is first class from your first sip of the complimentary aperitif that begins your evening to your last bite of the decadent flagship Good Burger. A juicy Creekstone Farms patty made with a blend of brisket and chuck is topped with jaw-droppingly thickcut bacon, Cooper white American cheese, pickles, a fried egg and the irresistible Good Sauce. Although the burger is the undeniable star, the tight menu of salads and small plates shouldn’t be brushed aside. The roasted Brussels sprouts Caesar is a hearty starter, with lemon-pecorino Caesar dressing, crispy quinoa, and mixed greens with a snowcap of shaved pecorino. The modestly named preserved mushrooms are a favorite with sweet-sour bursts of golden raisin mostarda and fresh green onion on a super-creamy bed of goat cheese polenta that had us licking our plates. When the owners also run a boutique ice company, Good Ice, the drink menu is not to be ignored. Bask in the summer patio vibes with the Barrio Tropical, which features a blend of rums, cream and tropical fruits, or keep it classic with the Summer Glory, Good Company’s clean, bright and citrusy seasonal take on a martini.

4317 Manchester Ave, St. Louis, 314.405.8333, goodcompany-stl.com

PHOTO BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY

IN THE KNOW

GAS STATIONS WITH GREAT FOOD

this page: samosa chaat at olivette station; opposite page, clockwise from left: olivette station, chana masala and olivette station coowner nazia afzal

If you ask us, there’s something rather joyous to pushing through the dross of the average American gas station and finding quite a different picture on the other side. No, we don’t want Skittles or Doritos; we don’t wish to rescue some gnarly old hotdog from its eternal rotation on greasy rods. But we do perk up for naan, for basmati rice, for meaty burnt ends and excellent Buffalo wings. It’s really true – these places exist. Here are some of our favorites.

– Alexa Beattie

3 Bay BBQ & Bakery

3 Bay started life in a trailer, in the parking lot of Town & Country’s Phillips 66, but it wasn’t long before it moved into the gas station’s vacant garage space. That was nine years ago. In the time since, owners Rick and Carol Grosz have become known for making “the best pulled pork this side of the Mississippi.” This judiciously sauced pork sandwich (served on a brioche bun) is as simple and as good as it gets. Served with fiery homemade chips, it’s even better. It also makes an appearance atop mac and cheese in the Mac Attack. And if you’d rather a pulled chicken sandwich, that’s called a Mother Clucker. Carol Grosz is responsible for the baked goods, and if the divine and absurdly moist banana cake is any measure of her expertise, the only question you need to ask is: When do we next need gas?

14195 Clayton Road, Town & Country, 636.227.1208, 3baybbqandbakery.com

O’B. Que’s

This one’s a little slicker. Known by locals as the “Gucci Gas,” this Phillips 66 serves as host for some pretty ripping Texas-style barbecue. Yes, you still may have to bypass those godforsaken sausages, those boxes of Mike and Ikes, but once you’re through the door of O’B. Que’s, the term “Gucci Gas” starts to make sense. It’s pristine here and just what you want when you’re in the mood for some fat Buffalo wings and a burntends flatbread. Service is swift. Orders arrive on trendy metal trays and are very generous. What’s also nice: If your pump’s a-pumping, you can dash in and grab a pound or two of meat to go: brisket, turkey, et cetera, or even a smoked half-chicken on the bone. 158 Long Road, Chesterfield, 636.778.9675, obques.com

Olivette Station

Who knew that the Pakistani family who owns the little BP on Olive Boulevard decided to do away with their service garage to make way for a new enterprise called Olivette Station? We salute it. After all, what’s more boring than a car inspection? Conversely, what is more delightful than a vegetable samosa with a crisp, thin wrapping; chana masala (chickpea curry) with naan, or chicken tikka masala with basmati rice, coriander chutney and pickle? The operation is homespun to such an endearing degree that when our chai came out, it was followed by a big plastic jar of sugar and a spoon. Food is technically for takeout only, though there is a small seating area, and the menu –written by hand – sits on the counter clipped to a small board.

9680 Olive Blvd., Olivette, 314.991.3082, Facebook: Olivette Station Food Mart

DRINK THIS

For the last five years, beer has been trending lighter and lighter. Hands that once reached for a frosty IPA at the cookout are now rolling in with 24 packs of Miller Lite – and who can blame them? On a hot day, nothing hits like a sunshine-yellow, light-as-a-feather lager. Well, beer-loving locavores, now is your time. Two of the biggest names in St. Louis craft beer have each recently launched “light” versions of one of their most beloved brews.

4 Hands Brewing Co.’s City Wide Light Lager is a crisp, refreshing American lager. At 4.2% ABV, it comes in at 1.3% ABV lower than its predecessor, the City Wide American pale ale. Meanwhile, Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Zwickel Light is brewed with 100% barley malt and clocks in at under 100 calories. With low bitterness and a slight floral hoppy note, it has all the appeal of any macro low-carb, low-ABV sipper and much more personality and flavor. Each is available in cans at the breweries’ respective tasting rooms and retailers around St. Louis.

4 Hands Brewing Co., 4handsbrewery.com; Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., urbanchestnut.com

opposite page: cheeseburger at mac's local eats; this page, from top: steve ewing; burnt ends at shaved duck

chef tour

When Steve Ewing, the founder and co-owner of Steve’s Hot Dogs and Steve’s Meltdown, talks about cake, he gets serious. He places his palms on the table and declares, “Listen. I love cake.” But that isn’t all he loves. Ewing’s eclectic palate includes a passion for sushi, Cantonese baked barbecue buns, burnt ends, cheeseburgers and much more. These are the 10 restaurants and bars where you’re most likely to find him. – Alexa Beattie

Balkan Treat Box

“Balkan and I are direct neighbors at CityPark. I tell [Balkan Treat Box co-owner Loryn Nalic] to make whatever she feels like making. ‘Make me something,’ I say. And it’s a privilege. The last thing she cooked up didn’t even make it to the car.”

8103 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, 314.733.5700, balkantreatbox.com

Chimichanga’s Mexican Restaurant

“This is family-style, a great place to take my daughter. There’s nothing that special about it, but the food’s fast and hot, and I have great memories there.”

5425 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.352.0202, chimichangasstl.com

The Gramophone

“I’m a big sandwich guy, and these are the best sandwiches in St. Louis. The Mississippi Nights Club has

everything but the kitchen sink: turkey, roast beef, bacon, pepper jack.”

4243 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.531.5700, gramophonestl.com

Grand Spirits Bottle Co.

“They have small plates, but I’m talking about the huge assortment of tequilas: straight and chilled; doubled or tripled.”

3194 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, grandspiritsco.com

Kampai Sushi Bar

“I go in a group. Nigiri, straight up. Salmon, tuna, smoked eel. Hot sake.”

4949 W. Pine Blvd., St. Louis, 314.367.2020, kampaisushibarstl.com

Mac’s Local Eats

“I get a double, maybe triple cheeseburger. Three patties, I mean …” 5656 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.393.7713, macslocaleats.com

opposite page: pide at balkan treat box; this page, clockwise, from top: grand spirits bottle co., kampai sushi

Planter’s House

“The martini. I have mine with gin, pretty smooth and simple. I can drink them all night. Sometimes, that means five!”

1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

The Royale Food & Spirits

“I’m a pretty simple guy and the burgers don’t get much better than the ones at The Royale – chargrilled, raw onions, American cheese and ketchup. See what I mean? Simple.”

3132 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.3600, theroyale.com

The Shaved Duck Smokehouse

“I get the burnt ends, but you’ve gotta get there; they sell out.”

2900 Virginia Ave., St. Louis, 314.776.1407, theshavedduck.com

Wei Hong Bakery

“I go about once a month for their barbecue buns. I love ribs inside buns. They’re like kolaches, only bigger, and glossy on top. They sell out every day. I usually take them to parties.”

3175 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.773.8318, prod.getmymeal.com/en/ weihongbakery

bar, cevapi at balkan treat box

EVERY RANCH AT TWISTED RANCH, RANKED

There’s no wrong time of year for ranch, but our intake of the salty, herbed and spiced buttermilk-based dressing spikes with the Midwestern summer’s whirl of barbecues and backyard parties. To finetune our taste buds for ranch season, we headed over to Twisted Ranch in the Central West End to try their Around the World ranch sampler and sort its 34 diverse dressings into the ultimate ranch leaderboard.

BY

LAUREN HEALEY, MEERA NAGARAJAN, IAIN SHAW AND MICHELLE VOLANSKY // CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

1. Jalapeno Popper

This all-conquering ranch combines many of the strengths displayed by its fiercest competitors into one platonic ideal. Salty, cheesy, spicy and earthy, the flavors of this ranch quite simply stand apart from the rest of the pack. It’s also an exemplary team player that gets the best out of veggies, chicken, fries or whatever else you want to pair it with.

2.

Cajun

Falling just short at the last, our runnerup is a genuinely interesting take on a ranch, with its thick texture, warming spices and near-perfect balance of salt and sweetness. There’s a lot going on here, but the Cajun never feels overpowering.

3.

Cheesy Bacon

The Sauce bronze medal goes to this salty, smoky ranch, whose pleasing thickness and bold flavors live up emphatically to the name (although it’s vegetarian-friendly – the ranch doesn’t actually contain bacon or any meat product). Fries, chips and tater tots were made to be dipped in a condiment like this.

4.

Double “D”

This deviled egg in saucy form is a gamble that pays off with fun results: There’s lots of Dijon, it’s eggy and rich, but it’s still unquestionably a ranch at heart. We loved it, even if it falls just short of the top three.

5.

Cilantro Lime

Fresh citrus notes vaulted this ranch above much of its competition to land in the top five, but the cilantro is an equal partner. Even our cilantro-skeptic panelist expressed grudging admiration for this one.

6.

Truffle Shuffle

Less is often more when it comes to truffle, and this ranch has enough truffle to impress without overwhelming. There’s a chunky quality to the Truffle Shuffle, thanks to the addition of Parmesan.

7. Pesto

This tangy pesto split opinion. It feels a little basic, it’s not the most interesting or nuanced flavor, but it was likable enough to break into our top 10.

8.

Curry Yogurt

Smooth, thick and creamy, the yogurt gives this ranch an extra dimension, while the curry adds a flavorful punch.

9.

Sunny in Fetadelphia

Thick, creamy, smoky and sharp, this ranch combines sun-dried tomato, garlic and feta in one satisfying dip.

10. Srirancha

A ranch with real personality: We loved the texture, we loved the heat level and, yes, it tastes like Sriracha.

11. Buffalo

The Buffalo fell just short of the top 10, but it has a slow, lingering heat that builds and builds. It doesn’t taste particularly like a Buffalo sauce –perhaps because it also includes blue cheese and celery – but it does go well with chicken.

12. Kemowasabi

This thick, honey-sweetened ranch is rich and fun: It’s everything the Asian Zing ranch (mentioned later) wants to be. Have it with chicken.

13.

Chip’s Verde

Once we figured out why this ranch isn’t actually green – lots of chipotle peppers, we’re told – there wasn’t much left to debate. It’s a solid performer, with smoky notes and good heat from the peppers.

14. BBQ

All the flavor of a barbecue potato chip or a standard barbecue sauce, distilled into the form of a thick ranch. It’s reliable, if not particularly exciting.

15. Steakhouse

This tangy, vinegary and peppery ranch felt like a Mayfair dressing crossed with Raising Cane’s sauce. Its sweet nature pairs better with salty french fries or tots rather than with vegetables.

16. Castaway Ginger

This zippy ranch, which Twisted Ranch customers voted to add to the menu in

a contest a few years back, tastes like it has been mixed with freshly grated ginger, and it’s our pick for veggie dipping in particular.

17.

Roasted Garlic

Very garlicky and sweeter than we expected, this was one of the most divisive ranches on the list. “Your breath is going to stink – and I love that,” said our resident garlic lover.

18.

King of the Dill

This ranch is very close in flavor profile to the Twisted Ranch, but an extra dose of dill and a more flavorful all-round package gives the King of the Dill a slight edge.

19.

Twisted Ranch

The restaurant’s flagship ranch lands squarely in the middle of our ranking, which feels about right to us. It’s a simple, dill-forward ranch, nothing fancy.

20.

It Takes 2 to Mango

This is one of the spiciest ranches at Twisted Ranch, but the raw habanero heat smothers any hint of mango flavor. A real palate-cleanser.

21. Avocado

The avocado was an early favorite, but faded to the middle of the pack as the competition heated up. It’s a little on the bland side, but benefits from a thicker and creamier texture than some of its peers, with a subtle ranch flavor and an absence of sweetness.

22. Greek

We felt the Greek lacked saltiness and longed for citrus, but if a collision of tzatziki and feta sounds up your alley, you’ll like it.

23.

Parmesan Peppercorn

We found this a little confused. The Parmesan is present as a texture more than a taste, and the texture smothers the discernable notes of black pepper. But it’s certainly peppercorn and it’s certainly ranch. If you love both those things, you’ll probably love this.

24. Southwest

Very cumin-forward, with a suggestion of citrus, but let down by a dustiness that screamed “taco seasoning.”

25.

Buttermilk Basil

A traditional ranch with overwhelming notes of dry basil and a bit of a licorice flavor. We liked it initially, but there are much better flavors on the list.

26.

Ruffalo

The best of three similar ranches we ranked consecutively. However, once we figured the name was a portmanteau of “roasted garlic” and “Buffalo” rather than a tribute to the guy who plays the Hulk, there wasn’t much to say about this cheesy, peppery and rather bland ranch.

27.

Jack the Ripper

In spite of the notes of onion, and in spite of the kick from pepper jack, this sauce lacked personality and clarity.

28.

Red Billy Goat

This was among the thinner ranches, which generally landed toward the lower end of our ranking. There were hints of bell pepper and cheese, and it tasted like a cousin of both the Ruffalo and Jack the Ripper ranches. Sadly, it appears that anonymity runs in the family.

29.

Asian Zing

This one shows up with honey mustardstyle levels of sweetness, with a little dill flavor coming through and a hint of spice at the end.

30.

Caesar

One of our team described this as, “A nice, mild and inoffensive Caesar.” But who wants nice, mild or inoffensive? As it turned out for our team, nobody. It has lots of dried spice, but the spices don’t hang together, muddying the overall flavor.

31.

Smoked Tomato Basil

Another ranch that tasted like a dry spice rack drowned in a sea of ranch. We liked the texture, but this one wasn’t for us.

32.

Creamy Balsamic

This vinegary dip is a little overwhelming for fries and tater tots. It’s as if a creamy balsamic dressing snuck into the party in disguise to hang out with the ranches. “Ranch would not enter my vocabulary to describe this,” said one of our panel. Call security to take this one back to the salad section.

33.

Luau

The closest flavor association we made for the luau was “canned pineapple.” That wasn’t a good thing.

34.

Carter’s Smoke

There’s a lot of smoke, but nothing fire about the ranch that props up our ranking. It lacked the saltiness we want in a ranch and was weighed down by liquid smoke flavor that made the whole thing a bit of a one-note experience. Twisted Ranch, 14 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.833.3450, twistedranch.com

BY

LAUREN HEALEY

Summertime and the living’s easy … The warmth of summer means we’re all about getting out of the house and experiencing all our city has to offer. Here are some great spots to check out this year.

Agavero Grill & Cantina

Agavero Grill & Cantina has a huge selection of well over a dozen margarita flavors, including mezcal, tamarindo, roasted pineapplejalepeno, cucumber-parsley, and even a sangria margarita. To keep things interesting, try a margarita flight or a massive margarita tower. The diverse food menu has something for everyone with street tacos, chimichangas, an entire menu page dedicated to birria, including ramen, tacos, nachos, loaded fries and so much more. Live mariachi music keeps the vibe lively on Friday evenings. This spot has ample space for large groups and is conveniently located right off I-55.

604 N. Bluff Road, Collinsville, 618.855.9200, Facebook: Agavero Grill & Cantina

Broadway Oyster Bar

There’s nowhere quite like Broadway Oyster Bar. Stepping inside this eclectic St. Louis restaurant and bar is like being transported to New Orleans’ French Quarter, and it’s as much a nightlife destination as a place to fill up on some of the city’s finest Cajun and Creole food. Try the shrimp voodoo (breaded and fried Gulf shrimp tossed in the restaurant’s Sriracha voodoo sauce and topped with spicy Cajun coleslaw) or crawfish enchiladas, or just have the Cajun fries with a drink. With live music seven nights a week, you’ll always find a fascinating cross-section of the community here, and this venerable institution has no intention of slowing down. Keep an eye on their site for details on the upcoming Crab Festival in June and the Shrimp Festival in July. 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com

Cardinals Nation

Summertime in St. Louis always means plenty of Cardinals baseball games, and Cardinals Nation at Ballpark Village has you covered for all your pre-game needs. Two-and-a-half hours prior to each Cardinals home game, stop by for an all-inclusive, full-service bar and buffet, along

COMPILED

PHOTO COURTESY OF NEON GREENS

with a DJ to get you pumped up for the game. Menu items include hot dogs, bratwursts, nachos, salads, entrees and desserts. You can expect typical bar offerings, including beer, wine and cocktails.

Let’s go Cards!

601 Clark Street, St. Louis, samg.bz/CardinalsNation

Edera Italian Eatery

Summer calls for warm evenings dining and drinking on one of the most stunning courtyard patios in town. A massive ivy-covered wall flanks the back side of the lush courtyard, which is tucked away from the street in the Central West End. Reservations specifically for courtyard seating are not available as it’s weather dependent; however, people with reservations get priority for courtyard seating. Check out their killer happy hour specials from 5 to 6 p.m. Monday through Thursday with specially priced appetizers and drinks, including the new seasonal cocktail menu featuring a Ketel One espresso martini.

48 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, 314.361.7227, ederastl.com

Neon Greens

Neon Greens is a radically fresh produce company serving made-toorder craft salads prepared with greens grown in a hydroponic farm connected to the restaurant. Diners get to experience the journey of their meal through a conveyor belt system that transports the greens from the farm and into the kitchen. Stop in and try one of the freshest salads available in St. Louis, including the new collaboration salad with Balkan Treat Box, available for a limited time.

4176 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, neongreens.com

Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream

There’s not much better on a hot summer’s day than some delicious ice cream, and Serendipity Homemade Ice Cream has some amazing new flavors for summer. Try the Taylor Swift-inspired Wildest Dreams, a Dreamsicle-esque flavor, along with blueberry and peach flavors. Also new for Independence Day is Yankee Doodle Dandy, a white chocolate base with blueberry and raspberry swirls. July is National Ice Cream Month, and July 21 is National Ice Cream Day, so stop by for activities and specials all day long. Serendipity also offers catering for all your special events, from birthday parties to weddings and everything in between.

4400 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.3800, serendipity-icecream.com

¡OLÉMOLE !

BY ILEANA MARTINEZ //

PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA MUSGRAVE

ENMOLADAS AT MALINCHE MEXICAN CULINARY EXPERIENCE

MOLE KEEPS YOU ON YOUR TOES. YOU MAY THINK YOU’VE FINALLY GRASPED THE ESSENCE OF THIS EMBLEMATIC AND PRIZED MEXICAN STAPLE, ONLY TO ENCOUNTER A NEW ITERATION THAT CHALLENGES YOUR ASSUMPTIONS. BUT THAT’S THE BEAUTY OF THIS DISH – “MOLE” SIMPLY COMES FROM THE NAHUATL WORD FOR “SAUCE,” HINTING AT ITS INFINITE VARIATIONS. NEARLY EVERY REGION OF MEXICO BOASTS A UNIQUE MOLE EXPERIENCE, BUT ONE CONSTANT REMAINS: EVERY SIMMERING POT IS A LABOR OF LOVE, CREATING A SYMPHONY OF FLAVORS THAT’S GREATER THAN THE SUM OF ITS PARTS. IF YOU’RE CRAVING A CULINARY ADVENTURE THROUGH MEXICO WITHOUT LEAVING TOWN, YOU’RE IN LUCK. THESE FOUR RESTAURANTS SERVE SOME OF THE BEST MOLE WE’VE FOUND IN ST. LOUIS WHILE ALSO CAPTURING THE RANGE OF WHAT THIS VERSATILE DISH CAN BE.

Enmoladas | Malinche Mexican Culinary Experience

Tucked away behind the stylish, intimate dining room at Malinche in Ellisville lies a kitchen crafting small plates that are based on traditional recipes but presented with stunning, modern flair. The signature enmoladas feature housemade corn tortillas cradling moist, shredded chicken, bathed in a delicate mole poblano made with mulato chiles, which are ripened, dried and roasted poblanos with notes of cherry, chocolate and tobacco. Each bite offers textural contrast: The crispness of the tortilla yields to the silky mole, punctuated by snappy onions, tender chicken and tart housemade Mexican crema. The enmoladas are accompanied by a comforting arroz rojo, Mexican red rice. Fluffy, buttery and seasoned to perfection, the rice has a vibrant tomato broth base and is dotted with peas, carrots and potatoes. Malinche’s rotating menu and special events offer a glimpse into the vast world of mole. We were fortunate enough to sample their orange-hued almond mole (mole almendrado), built on a base of almonds and tomatoes, and green mole, a fragrant blend of pepitas and herbs. Choosing a favorite proved an impossible task. A visit to Malinche isn’t just a meal – it’s an education in the bounties of Mexican gastronomy.

15939 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.220.8514, malinchestl.com

Mole de Olla |

Mi Tierra Bonita Mexican Restaurant

This dish is another testament to mole’s versatility. While some may argue its place in the mole pantheon, one spoonful of this Michoacan-style mole de olla will silence all doubts. Mi Tierra Bonita’s take on this slow-cooked stew is a lipsmacking masterpiece. Chucks of beef simmer in a guajillo chile broth for hours until tender but firm. Green calabaza (a zucchini-like squash), potato and corn on the cob join in, each imbued with the deep flavors of the long simmer. The result is an explosion of flavor: meatiness, warming spices and earthy vegetable notes delivered in a robust, hearty broth. While the exact recipe remains a closely guarded family secret, the process of making mole de olla is generally similar to pozole (a meaty hominy stew) in its use of reconstituted and blended dried chiles. However, the flavor profile diverges – it is more intense and savory when compared to the brightness of pozole.

3203 Collinsville Road, Fairmont City, Illinois, 618.271.7311, Facebook: Mi Tierra Bonita

Mole Negro | La Oaxaqueña

For a taste of Oaxaca’s culinary heritage, look no further than La Oaxaqueña in Mehlville. Helmed by Yolanda Soriano, this restaurant is a love letter to what is widely considered Mexico’s gastronomical capital. The mole negro is a velvety, sweet, smoky black mole, made entirely in-house, clinging to pulled chicken breast. Ancho chiles and a touch of guajillo form the base, enriched with Oaxacan chocolate, peanuts, sesame seeds, pecans, pepitas, toasted chile seeds, raisins and aromatic herbs. The mole negro is one of two moles that can be ordered with the mole con pollo (chicken mole, simply named “mole” on the menu). The dish is accompanied by arroz rojo cooked in a rich chicken and tomato broth, and warm corn tortillas, made by hand from fresh masa ground in-house. While the mole negro is the most popular, La Oaxaqueña also offers mole rojo; unlike its counterpart, this red mole emphasizes guajillo chiles, creating a mole that is slightly more fiery and tart, and less sweet. For those seeking to bring the flavors of La Oaxaqueña home, they also sell artisanal mole pastes, both rojo and negro, which are handmade in Oaxaca with a metate (traditional grinding stone).

2925 Lemay Ferry Road, St. Louis, 314.200.8212, laoaxaquenastl.com

Relleno Negro |

El Molino del Sureste

For a taste of the Yucatan, head to Southampton’s El Molino del Sureste, which opened in September 2023. A whole section of the menu here is dedicated to moles and pipianes (sauces thickened with seeds and nuts), but the undisputed star is the relleno negro with chilmole (a Yucatecan black mole). Steeped in tradition, this dish is deeply personal to Alex and Jeff Henry, the brothers who co-own El Molino, and the restaurant’s relleno negro is inspired by a family recipe. Deeply colored from ancho chile and chile de arbol that are roasted until they’re black, the chilmole is accented with black pepper and allspice and lightly thickened with masa. But the secret weapon is the addition of vinegar. This unexpected tang cuts through the intense umami, resulting in a mouthwatering sensation reminiscent of Worcestershire sauce. Nestled within is the relleno negro, ground pork wrapped around a hard boiled egg. Roasted turkey, onions and Anaheim peppers complete the stunning presentation. The cayos en mole blanco, a riff on traditional white mole, is another must-try, perfect for those seeking an experience that is gentler on the palate but equally as delicious. The blend of apples, pears, raisins, sunflower seeds and pepitas is sweet and nutty, and is topped off with perfectly seared scallops and fennel. 5005-5007 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.925.8431, elmolinostl.com

OPPOSITE PAGE: FROM LEFT, MALINCHE CO-OWNER ANGEL JIMÉNEZ-GUTIÉRREZ AND HIS MOTHER, HEAD CHEF MARÍA GUTIÉRREZ MOLINA

JOE FASSI SAUSAGE & SANDWICH FACTORY

BY ALEXA BEATTIE

If you were on the Hill 40 years ago, it’s quite likely you would have seen an old baby blue Ford van weaving through the neighborhood, hitching up on curbs, idling while a man named Joe ran an order of sausages into a customer’s ice box. Those sausages hadn’t traveled far – just a few blocks from what was then known as Fassi’s Market on Sublette Avenue. They were beyond fresh, their casings stuffed just that morning by a hand-cranked machine. The sausages had been nipped with string by a lad called Tom who – because it was summer and

school was out – was helping his grandpa with his rounds.

Tom Coll helped out in other ways as well. It was he who wrestled the pork butts onto the butcher block in back, and, once the meat had been ground, it was his job to stir in the spices. “My grandfather paid me and my friend with a sandwich,” Coll, 57, said. “We thought we were getting the world.”

Coll’s sausage isn’t hand-tied anymore, and the machinery is more modern these

days, but he’s still operating as Joe Fassi Sausage & Sandwich Factory, and the sausages are still made in the very same building on Sublette where his great grandfather, “Papa” Paul Fassi, opened his grocery store in 1926. With a nephew potentially interested in eventually taking over, Coll is confident he won’t be the last in the family to own the business.

During prohibition, the store served as an ice cream parlor, and for a time it also ran a brisk trade selling sugar to moonshiners on the Hill. Coll’s

grandfather and great uncles took over the business sometime in the 1930s.

His mother, Rose Coll, was born in a room above the shop – delivered, as it happened, by a midwife who also had ties to sausage. “Mrs. Volpi delivered all the babies on the Hill,” Coll said.

Fassi’s may be a little apart, geographically, from other Italian sandwich emporia in the neighborhood, but it certainly leaves an impression. The inside dizzies with red and green signage, advertising things like Fassi’s “Marco

Polo” and “lunch buster” meal deals. In the spaces in between, old family photographs tell the story of one of St. Louis’s oldest restaurants. Here’s one of Tom’s Great Aunt Mary, in a flapperish dress; there’s another of Great Aunt Jennie in a wedding gown. And up above the tables, on a high shelf, is that old hand-crank sausage stuffer, which looks like it could be a giant’s putty gun.

Even at three in the afternoon, customers come in at a clip. Choices abound, but most people seem to know what they want ahead of time. A freezer by the counter is packed with meatballs and three types of sausage. Behind the counter, putting up the odd lazy bubble, is a vat of deliciously herby tomato sauce (Coll’s dad’s recipe) that can also be packaged to go.

“I always get the meatball sandwich,” said a man in work overalls who was wrapping up a late lunch. “It’s a classic. When I want one, this is where I come.” Coll says the same, even though he’s been prepping them for others for 32 years. But sometimes he has a sausage which might be a salamete with red wine and garlic, or a luganiga flavored with sherry wine and nutmeg.

Customer Nick Traina, with an Italian mother and roots in Palermo, Sicily, was ordering the Vince Fassi Salsiccia Slam with roast beef and pepper cheese. “I know Italian food,” he said. Meanwhile, another man was coming through the door. “What’s it going to be, Jimbo?” Coll said.

2323 Sublette Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.5158, joefassisandwiches.com

MCELROYS: MY BROTHER, MY BROTHER AND ME sat, june 22 LYLE LOVETT AND HIS LARGE BAND thu, june 27