Sauce Magazine // October 2014

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SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM FREE, rEAdErS’ Ch OICE 2014 S t. l OUIS ’ IN d E p EN d EN t CU l INA ry AU th O r I ty Reade R s' Choi C e
Mike Emerson of Pappy's Smokehouse, your favorite barbecue
2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com Readers’ Choice 2014
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3 Readers’ Choice 2014
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favo R ite new R estau R ant: the libertine

The LiberTine 7927 Forsyth Blvd, Clayton, 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com

With each seasonal iteration of The Libertine’s trademark entree Three LiTTLe Birds, executive chef Josh Galliano and executive sous chef Josh Poletti exhibit the classic elegance of fowl, whimsically reinvented and roasted to perfection. Chicken, quail and Cornish hen are deboned, brined, stacked in layers and finally topped with morsels of dark meat. The succulent casserole is gently CVapped for several hours, which caramelizes the crispy skin before the Three Little Birds are laid to rest upon a bed of tangy, oldschool Carolina Gold rice middlins, cooked with milk and pecorino. The ensemble is finished with a saute of local, seasonal vegetables – this spring, it was scharf Farm’s asparagus and Andy Ayers’ snow peas doused in spring ramp butter sauce. The end product is a testament to Galliano’s and Poletti’s ability to elevate mere chicken and rice to first-rate distinction. – Anne Marie Lodholz

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5 Readers’ Choice 2014 photo by jonathan gayman
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Just what does it take to deliver the internationally acclaimed Memphis-style (with a St. Louis twist) ribs, pulled pork and brisket to the daily throngs at Pappy’s Smokehouse? Owner Mike Emerson lays it all out, by the numbers. – Sara Graham

5

smokers: Walter, Big Ron and LeRoy, plus two new ones, Waino and Porkey LaFarge

6

360,000

customers shook hands with Emerson and pretty ladies hugged him (He aims to beat that number this year).

14,000

27,000 Last year

bottles of Fitz’s root beer sold last year

14 to 18

10,400 years in business

hours to slow smoke pork over apple or cherry wood

6 to 8 gallons of barbecue sauce produced last year

producers from Missouri, Illinois and Iowa supply the meat

30

minutes average wait time in line

60 employees keeping Pappy’s running daily

4,000 pounds of sweet potato fries made last year

82,650 pounds of pork smoked daily

Pappy’s Smokehouse 3106 Olive St., St. Louis, 314.535.4340, pappyssmokehouse.com

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portrait by greg rannells
favo R ite ba R be C ue: pappy's smokehouse
8 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com Readers’ Choice 2014 favo R ite Cajun/C R eole: b roadway o yster b ar p hoto by ashley gieseking broadway oySTer bar 736 S. Broadway, St. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com
Meet some of the Broadway Oyster Bar staff: From left, Casey Donovan, Donna Hornachek, Josh Chartrand, Tory Johnson, Blair Govero, Mike Bridgeman, Brett Johnson, Bobby King, Kathryn Pilch, Jenny Hammond, Stefanie Ricci, Michelle Vessells, Brad Zipprich

Why did readers vote Broadway Oyster Bar the Best Cajun/ Creole restaurant in St. Louis for the 12th year running?

Because the menu is packed with the tastiest oysters, crawfish, crab legs and alligator north of NOLA. We sat down with owner John Johnson and his staff to find out what it’s like to work in a place that’s impossible to define with customers who defy stereotyping. As the seasoned, snarky waitstaff tells it, they love each other almost as much as they love the food, and they can always find something to laugh about, even after a 15-hour shift. Just don’t ask for separate checks. – Kellie Hynes

What dishes do you snarf on back in the kitchen?

The alligator sausage and shrimp cheesecakes, crawfish enchiladas, Crawfish Mona.

– Mike Bridgeman

What’s it like to work during a Cardinals day game?

You get to see the beginning and then (the fans) come back, and sometimes they take the same table. i’ll think, Oh my gosh, you were so different earlier. You did a lot of drinking in three hours!

– Michelle Vessells

Fill in the blank. Whatever you do, don’t order the: Mozzarella sticks and toasted ravioli. We don’t have that stuff.

– Kathryn Pilch

What’s the strangest thing you’ve ever seen a customer do?

eat a whole bucket of boiled crawfish. – John Johnson

Why is that strange? he ate the whole thing. seriously, the whole bucket. shells, heads and all.

– Stephanie Ricci

Tell me a musician story. d ick dale, he’s the King of s urf Guitar … he was playing with a cordless guitar. All of the sudden – (he’s) an older guy – he jumped down off the stage, walked through the crowd, all the way out the front door. everyone was like, ‘'Where’d he go?" he went around the corner, over to the White Castle, and walked through the drive-thru. h is

whole band is still playing on stage. The car that’s getting served pulls away and he walks up, with his guitar, playing, and sticks his head in the window. he just felt like going over and saying hi. he never stopped playing. Obviously everyone went crazy. – Johnson

When is it hard to be a server here?

When you try to (serve) the food, and no one responds to you. You ask, “Who had the jambalaya?” and nobody knows what they ordered. – Bridgeman

What do you do when someone orders something right before the kitchen closes?

We smile, and serve them, and cross our fingers they don’t order the crab legs. Crab legs take a long time to eat. i n the last 30 minutes, you just know you’re going to get two orders of crab legs. And i ’m like, " if you’re going to wait for one order of crab legs, might as well wait for two." – Vessells

What do you wish people knew about Broadway Oyster Bar?

We don’t take separate checks. Why? imagine having a big party at your house, 200 people, and trying to keep track of what everybody ate and drank. it’s the same thing here. People get upset, but they don’t realize. This ain’t Tony’s, where people come and sit in their seat. That would be way easier. – Johnson

favo R ite C hef ed heath

When you’re one of the area’s most popular chefs, everyone wants a word with you. We yanked Ed Heath out of the Cleveland-Heath kitchen for 1 minute to pepper him with questions about his pasture-to-plate restaurant in Edwardsville, then let him get back to making more slinger-like lomo saltado and Japanese pancakes . – Ligaya Figueras

What dish on the Cleveland-Heath menu are you most excited about? The duck breast with the German potato salad. english peas, bacon … oh my God, it’s so good.

What menu items surprise you with their popularity? For the breakfast menu, the lomo (saltado). it’s even more popular than our biscuits and gravy. For the starter menu, the okonomiyaki. We get more comments about that than anything else on our menu. The popularity is almost shocking.

What dish can you not take off the menu? The BLT.

Are you working with any new farmers or food producers? Jenna Pohl. she owns Midwest Lamb. she’s all-natural in her feed, but these lambs are huge. They dress out at 90 to 100 pounds. We wonder if we should call them mutton. They are massive, and they are delicious.

What’s the biggest thing you learned since opening Cleveland-Heath in 2011? staffing –

learning how to be an appropriate manager of people, and keep them happy and wanting to come back every day, and hungry so they want to keep learning on their own. We have a killer staff, but it’s been the most challenging thing.

What music do you listen to in the kitchen? i hate really heavy metal, so we stick with contemporary rock ’n’ roll, Willie Nelson, good old country, hank Williams, Bob dylan, some old-school rap, a ton of old blues. it’s really who gets ahold of the radio.

What are your typical hours at the restaurant? i am there Tuesday through saturday, 15-plus hours each day.

How do you keep up your energy? After work, i either jog or go to a 24-hour gym. if i didn’t exercise six or seven days a week for a minimum of an hour, i couldn’t keep up with it.

Cleveland-heath

106 N. Main St., Edwardsville, 618.307.4830, clevelandheath.com

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 9 Readers’ Choice 2014

favo R ite doughnut shop: strange donuts

The guys at Strange Donuts do two things very well: make weird, wonderful doughnuts in oddball combinations (Pig liver? Crab meat? Why not?), and herald the arrival of these limited-edition “dones” online. Local chefs have created signature “Strangers,” and the shop’s own “Creations” have wowed Strange Donuts’ rabid followers on Instagram – all 5,300 and counting. These nine dones are our picks for the strangest of the strange. – Catherine Klene

Strange donuts, 2709 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.932.5851, strangedonuts.com

10 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com Readers’ Choice 2014
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1. The Takeout Soy sauce and chicken stock cake doughnut topped with sweet and sour sauce, chow mein and scallions | 2. The Mai Pho King Done A Mai Lee Stranger with a beef pho consomme filling, hoisin-Sriracha glaze, and carrot, basil and peanut topping | 3. Bad to the Done A Bogart’s Stranger topped with pulled ribs, apricot glaze and Pineapple Express barbecue sauce | 4. The Stewed STL Done A Schlafly Stranger made with coffee stout chocolate icing, sea salt popcorn and a bourbon-caramel drizzle | 5. Finding Nori Nori seaweed doughnut with sesame oil and a caramel glaze, topped with toasted sesame seeds | 6. The Slinger A toasted doughnut topped with an egg patty, chili con carne, Monterey Jack cheese and Billy Goat chips | 7. The Colcanndone A baked potato and sauteed kale yeast doughnut with a Jameson-infused glaze, sprinkled with Irish cheddar cheese | 8. The Strange Hog Burger A Quincy Street Bistro Stranger featuring a Hog Burger patty inside a doughnut topped with maple-caramelized onion glaze and house-made pimento cheese spread | 9. The Donito A Niche Stranger with lemon-maple custard, bonito glaze, roasted shiitake mushrooms, bonito flakes and fleur del sel
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favo R ite R estau R ant sidney street cafe

Kevin Nashan took over Sidney Street Cafe in 2003. Here, he reflects on the lessons he’s learned running the beloved Benton Park restaurant for the past decade. – Meera Nagarajan

The greatest lesson Sidney Street Cafe has taught me? Listening – to my wife, my brother, back of the house, front of the house, customers. It helps you grow. It makes you better.

The first time we put foie gras on the menu, we were so excited and nobody ordered it. Another time, we did a mackerel dish and we loved it but customers didn’t get it. A year later? Customers wanted it. Sometimes they’re ready, and sometimes they’re not. You have to listen.

Honestly, it’s harder to take over a restaurant because the expectations are so high. You know what’s worked and what hasn’t. You just don’t know if you should change anything … It takes time and a little courage.

When we took over Sidney Street, we were under a microscope, but we knew people would show up because there was an existing clientele. With Peacemaker (Nashan’s new restaurant to open in the coming weeks), we get to be creative instantly with the food. There’s no model to follow.

You always want to re-polish. Before I make a vichyssoise, I research it because there’s always room for improvement. You want to respect your craft and the way you do that is by doing your homework.

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p hoto by greg rannells Sidney Street Cafe 2000 Sidney St., St. Louis, 314.771.5777, sidneystreetcafe.com

your favorite places to eat

The Breakfast Wagyu Burger at Blueberry Hill, voted favorite place to get a burger

Favorite New Restaurant

The LiberTine

7927 Forsyth Blvd, Clayton, 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com

2nd: Planter’s house

3rd: element and Mission Taco Joint (tie)

Honorable Mention: Juniper

Favorite Restaurant

Sidney STreeT Cafe

2000 sidney st., st. Louis, 314.771.5777, sidneystreetcafe.com

2nd: Pastaria

3rd: Pappy’s smokehouse

Honorable Mention: Mai Lee

Favorite Chef

ed heaTh, CLeveLand-heaTh

2nd: Gerard Craft, Niche family of restaurants

3rd: Kevin Nashan, sidney street Cafe and Ben Poremba, elaia and Olio (tie)

Honorable Mention: Josh Galliano, The Libertine

Favorite Barbecue

PaPPy’S SmokehouSe

3106 Olive st., st. Louis, 314.535.4340, pappyssmokehouse.com

2nd: Bogart’s smokehouse

3rd: sugarfire smoke house

Honorable Mention: The shaved duck

Favorite Brunch

haLf & haLf

8133 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719, halfandhalfstl.com

2nd: Brasserie by Niche

3rd: rooster

Honorable Mention: Café Osage

Favorite Buffet evereST Café & bar

4145 Manchester Ave., st. Louis, 314.531.4800, everestcafeandbar.com

2nd: house of india

3rd: Cielo restaurant and Bar

Honorable Mention: The emperor’s Palace

Favorite Burger bLueberry hiLL

6504 delmar Blvd., University City, 314.727.4444, blueberryhill.com

2nd: Five star Burgers

3rd: O’Connell’s Pub

Honorable Mention: The dam

Favorite Cheap Eats

faST eddie’S bon air

1530 e. 4th st., Alton, 618.462.5532, fasteddiesbonair.com

2nd: Mission Taco Joint

3rd: southwest diner

Honorable Mention: seoul Taco

Favorite Cupcake

The CuP

Various locations, cravethecup.com

2nd: Jilly’s Cupcake Bar & Café

3rd: The sweet divine

Honorable Mention: sarah’s Cake shop

Favorite Deli

bLueS CiTy deLi

2438 McNair Ave., st. Louis, 314.773.8225, bluescitydeli.com

2nd: Pickles deli

3rd: Mom’s deli

Honorable Mention: Gioia’s deli

Favorite Desserts

Cyrano’S Cafe

603 e. Lockwood Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.3232, cyranos.com

2nd: Baileys’ Chocolate Bar

3rd: element

Honorable Mention: The Fountain On Locust

Favorite Food Truck

GuerriLLa STreeT food

314.529.1328, guerillastreetfood.com

2nd: seoul Taco

3rd: Lulu’s Local eatery

Honorable Mention: Cha Cha Chow

Favorite Frozen Dessert

Ted dreweS frozen CuSTard

6726 Chippewa st., st. Louis, 314.481.2652 and 4224 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.352.7376, teddrewes.com

14 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com Readers’ Choice 2014
p hoto by C armen troesser

2nd: Bobby’s Frozen Custard

3rd: serendipity homemade ice Cream

Honorable Mention: Annie’s Frozen Custard

Favorite Gluten Free new day GLuTen free 15622 Manchester road, ellisville, Missouri, 636.527.5000, newdayglutenfree.com

2nd: PW Pizza

3rd: Whisk: A sustainable Bakeshop

Honorable Mention: Frida’s

Favorite Late Night Eats

CiTy diner

3139 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.772.6100, citydinerstl.com

2nd: The dam

3rd: Mission Taco Joint

Honorable Mention: Uncle Bill’s Pancake & dinner house

Favorite Pizza

Pi Pizzeria

Various locations, restaurantpi.com

2nd: dewey’s Pizza

3rd: Mad Tomato

Honorable Mentions: The Good Pie and Peel Wood Fired Pizza (tie)

Favorite Patio

John d. mCGurk’S

iriSh Pub & Garden

1200 russell Blvd., st. Louis, 314.776.8309, mcgurks.com

2nd: Vin de set

3rd: Billy G’s Kirkwood and Molly’s in soulard (tie)

Honorable Mention: sasha’s on shaw

Favorite Spot to Impress Out-of-towners

oLio 1634 Tower Grove Ave., st. Louis, 314.932.1088, oliostl.com

2nd: Pastaria

3rd: Blueberry hill

Honorable Mention: Pappy’s smokehouse

Favorite Seafood farmhauS

3257 ivanhoe Ave., st. Louis, 314.647.3800, farmhausrestaurant.com

2nd: deMun Oyster Bar

3rd: Tavern Kitchen & Bar

Honorable Mention: Oceano Bistro

Favorite American, nouveau niChe

7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com

2nd: sidney street Cafe

3rd: elaia

Honorable Mention: Farmhaus and Five Bistro (tie)

Favorite American, traditional annie Gunn’S

16806 Chesterfield Airport road, Chesterfield, 636.532.7684, smokehousemarket.com

2nd: The restaurant at The Cheshire

3rd: eleven eleven Mississippi and harvest (closed) (tie)

Honorable Mention: herbie’s Vintage 72

Favorite Cajun/Creole broadway oySTer bar

736 s. Broadway, st. Louis, 314.621.8811, broadwayoysterbar.com

2nd: riverbend restaurant & Bar

3rd: Boogaloo

Honorable Mention: Gulf shores restaurant & Grill

Favorite Chinese Lu Lu Seafood & dim Sum 8224 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.997.3108, luluseafoodrestaurant.com

2nd: Wang Gang Asian eats

3rd: Yen Ching

Honorable Mention: hiro Asian Kitchen

Favorite Eastern European/ Bosnian

GrbiC reSTauranT & banqueT haLL

4071 Keokuk st., st. Louis, 314.772.3100, grbicrestaurant.com

2nd: Bosna Gold

3rd: Aya sofia

Honorable Mention: handleBar

Favorite English/Irish/Scottish

The SCoTTiSh armS

8 s. sarah st.,

st. Louis, 314.535.0551, thescottisharms.com

2nd: dressel’s Public house and The dubliner (tie)

3rd: John d. McGurk’s irish Pub

Honorable Mention: Llywelyn’s Pub

Favorite French braSSerie by niChe

4580 Laclede Ave., st. Louis, 314.454.0600, brasseriebyniche.com

2nd: Atlas restaurant

3rd: Cafe Provencal and stone soup Cottage (tie)

Honorable Mention: Bar Les Frères

Favorite German SChneiThorST’S reSTauranT & bar

1600 s. Lindbergh Blvd., Ladue, 314.993.4100, schneithorsts.com

2nd: dreamland Palace

3rd: roemer Topf restaurant

Honorable Mention: Bevo Mill

Favorite Greek oLymPia kebob houSe and Taverna

1543 McCausland Ave., st. Louis, 314.781.1299, olympiakebobandtaverna.com

2nd: Momos

3rd: Gyro house

Honorable Mention: spiro’s restaurant

Favorite Indian houSe of india

8501 delmar Blvd., University City, 314.567.6850, hoistl.com

2nd: rasoi

3rd: Taj Palace Cuisine of india

Honorable Mention: haveli

Favorite Italian PaSTaria

7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.6603, pastariastl.com

2nd: Trattoria Marcella and Zia’s (tie)

3rd: Cunetto house of Pasta and Paul Manno’s Cafe (tie)

Honorable Mention: Acero

Favorite Japanese waSabi SuShi bar

Various locations, wasabisushibars.com

2nd: Tani sushi Bistro

3rd: Café Mochi and Kampai sushi Bar (tie)

Honorable Mention: Chop shop

Favorite Korean orienTaL SPoon

229 sanatorium, edwardsville, 618.655.9633, orientalspoon.net

2nd: seoul Taco

3rd: seoul Garden Korean restaurant

Honorable Mention: Asian Kitchen Korean Cuisine

Favorite Mexican Chava’S mexiCan reSTauranT

925 Geyer Ave., st. Louis, 314.241.5503, chavasmexican.com, and miSSion TaCo JoinT 6235 delmar Blvd., st. Louis, 314.932.5430, missiontacostl.com (tie)

2nd: La Vallesana

3rd: Taqueria el Bronco Honorable Mention: Mi ranchito

Favorite Middle Eastern ranouSh 6501 delmar Blvd., University City, 314.726.6874 and 200 N. Kirkwood road, Kirkwood, 314.984.8899, ranoush.com

2nd: Cafe Natasha’s 3rd: Aya sofia

Honorable Mention: The Vine Mediterranean Café and Market

Favorite Soul/Southern SweeTie Pie’S

4270 Manchester Ave., st. Louis, 314.371.0304 and 3643 delmar Blvd., st. Louis, 314.371.0304, sweetiepieskitchen.com

2nd: Juniper

3rd: Quincy street Bistro Honorable Mention: The Kitchen sink

Favorite South American/Pan-Latin manGo Peruvian CuiSine 1101 Lucas Ave., st. Louis, 314.621.9993, mangoperu.com

2nd: Fritanga Nicaraguan Cuisine

3rd: Yemanja Brasil restaurante

Honorable Mention: Maya Cafe

Favorite Spanish modeSTo

5257 shaw Ave., st. Louis, 314.772.8272, modestotapas.com

2nd: Barcelona Tapas restaurant

3rd: Guido’s Pizzeria & Tapas

Honorable Mention: One 19 North Tapas and Wine Bar

Favorite Steak TuCker’S PLaCe

Various locations, tuckersplacestl.com

2nd: ruth’s Chris steak house

3rd: Citizen Kane’s steak house Honorable Mention: 801 Chophouse and The Tenderloin room (tie)

Favorite Thai kinG & i reSTauranT

3157 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.771.1777, kingandistl.com

2nd: sen Thai Asian Bistro

3rd: Basil spice Thai Cuisine Honorable Mention: Thai Cafe

Favorite Vegetarian Tree houSe reSTauranT

3177 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.696.2100, treehousestl.com

2nd: Frida’s deli

3rd: PuraVegan Cafe & Yoga and sacred Grounds Cafe (tie) Honorable Mention: Lulu’s Local eatery

Favorite Vietnamese mai Lee

8396 Musick Memorial dr., Brentwood, 314.645.2835, maileerestaurant.com

2nd: Pho Grand

3rd: Banh Mi so #1 Honorable Mention: Mi Linh

Favorite Waitstaff

Tony’S

410 Market st., st. Louis, 314.231.7007, tonysstlouis.com

2nd: Niche

3rd: The restaurant at The Cheshire Honorable Mention: Cardwell’s at the Plaza

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15 Readers’ Choice 2014
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John Fausz, bar manager at Olio, mixes drinks with a cultural and historical ken, returning to the classic components of a respectable cocktail: gin, bitters and vermouth. Over the marble bartop at Olio, where Fausz coaches journeyman cocktail enthusiasts, he’ll drop little A-grade bits of spirit wisdom on you: rye is better for mixing, bourbon for drinking. Good ingredients and delivery always outclass theatrics. And with a little finesse,

herbal and mineral flavors become the antidote to years of oversugared, overmixed drinks.

“(Olio) is so Old World in spirit,” Fausz said. The bar menu underscores that belief, from the acidic, lambic-like ramos de Valle cider from spain to the classic Adonis cocktail (sherry, sweet vermouth, orange bitters) to pacharán, a Basque liqueur made from sloeberries that dates

to the Middle Ages. Also a certified sommelier, Fausz has dialed in on a roster of unusual, rustic wines, like the Grosjean Gamay, a spicy Beaujolais-esque italian. There is something atypical, historical, even a little magical at work here. That’s the Old World, transmuted over.

Above all, Fausz is a dreamer, seeing the cocktail movement in st. Louis for what it can continue to be: a mechanism for

revitalization and community-building. Our readers are noticing – the bartenders and bar programs they gave nods to this year are singular examples of mighty imaginations, forward-thinking ones, mixing their vision with a jiggerful of st. Louis’ past. Add ice. shake. – Garrett Faulkner

olio 1634

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17 Readers’ Choice 2014 p hoto by elizabeth jo C hum favo R ite s pot to i mp R ess o ut-of-towne R s: o lio
Tower Grove Ave.,
Louis, 314.932.1088, oliostl.com
St.

Where to explo R e next favorite wineri e s 5

18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com Readers’ Choice 2014
by garrett faulkner, ligaya figueras and catherine klene illustration by vidhya nagarajan

The arithmetic seems simple: grow the grapes, press them, ferment and bottle the result. Set up a few patio tables. Print some brochures. Whip up snacks. Build it, and they will come. But the vintner’s task list doesn’t end at making world-class wine. Crafting the experience – that artful combination of rustic tranquility and urbane getaway – is what sets the standouts apart from the simply satisfactory. We raise our glasses to these five wineries who, among more than 100 across Missouri, have earned the praise of our readers for their ability to put a tall pour of the country inside of a bottle. So tear out (just this once) the map of our wine tour and pop it in the glove box – you’ve got driving to do.

Chandler hill Vineyards

Chandler Hill’s first press was only in 2011, but its winemaking has been as fecund as the gentle foothills on which it sits. Winemaker and vineyard manager Tom Murphy has wasted no time establishing an impressive catalog of whites, reds and even a port here and there. Native Missouri varietals stand beside heavy-hitters imported from the West Coast, some even mingling inside the barrel, like the winery’s bold Norton-cabernet, slated to debut this summer. The vineyard’s whites shine the most, though, especially the dry vignoles, which blooms with a strong grapefruit nose, tart palate and sweet finish.

You’d be remiss in skipping over the restaurant menu. The King Buck Burger, brushed with house-made barbecue sauce, goes down well with the tannic, refined 2012 merlot. Order an artisan cheese plate – bedecked with bleu cheese, cheddar and brie – and conclude on a decadent note with Murph’s Vignoles White Port, an ambrosial vineyard specialty.

596 Defiance Road, Defiance, 636.798.2675, chandlerhillvineyards.com, Tues. to Thurs. – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Fri. to Mon. – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; winter hours vary

Chaumette Vineyards & Winery

The 2013 unoaked chardonel is one excuse to head to Chaumette this summer, but there are plenty more reasons why this Ste. Genevieve winery is a crowd pleaser. For $5 you can taste six of the winery’s 12 wines in the tasting room. Choose a bottle of your favorite and enjoy it in the airconditioned dining room, or take it to the patio or covered veranda. Chaumette permits you to bring in your picnic spread, but try Grapevine Grill. The restaurant showcases uber-local ingredients prepared by executive chef Adam Lambay. Come on a Thursday or Sunday for family-style dining.

A visit to Chaumette isn’t complete without walking the picturesque, hilly grounds. Check out St. Vincent’s in-the-Vineyard chapel at the top of the hill, then saunter down to the barn for a short trail hike to neighbor winery-microbrewery Charleville. If hiking, eating and drinking wine tires you out, Chaumette has you covered with a spa that offers everything: soothing facials and massages, manis, pedis and even an outdoor pool. Best of all, you don’t have to make it a day trip. Stay overnight in one of the posh villas for a top-flight getaway that won’t require a flight to Napa Valley.

24345 State Route WW, Ste. Genevieve, 573.747.1000, chaumette.com, Wed. to Sun. – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

montelle Winery

Augusta Winery may dominate the valley, but its younger sibling rules the mountain above. Montelle Winery, perched 400 feet above the Missouri River on the Osage Ridge, was purchased by Augusta’s Tony Kooyumjian in 1998. But the wines it produces are its own, and there are plenty.

Step up to Montelle’s bar and enjoy complimentary tastings of nearly 20 different wines, such as the not-so-sweet vignoles or La Rosee, which sees its return to the Montelle portfolio this summer. Sweeter palates can opt for the best-selling Himmelswein, with notes of crisp green apple. Looking for something a bit stronger? Be bold and ask for a glass of the distilled spirits, potent yet curiously fruity sippers that pack a wallop.

Once you’ve found your favorite, head over to the counter at the Klondike Cafe, where madeto-order sandwiches, salads, wraps and pizzas are available. If you really want to see Montelle at its best, make reservations for a three-course Sunset Dinner on Friday or Saturday night. There’s no better view than can be found on Montelle’s deck, sharing a bottle while the sinking sun sets Missouri wine country aglow for miles.

201 Montelle Drive, Augusta, 636.228.4464, montelle.com, Mon. to Thurs. – 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Fri. – 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sat. – 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sun. – 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; winter hours vary

mount Pleasant estates

When you want a lesson in Missouri wine history, Mount Pleasant Estates is the place to start. It’s the oldest winery in Augusta and the first designated wine appellation in the U.S. Moreover, the winery has been in the hands of only two families since it was established in 1859, shut down during Prohibition and resurrected by the Dressel family in 1967.

Among the five wines to include in your $6 tasting, opt for the Villagio, an off-dry white fragrant with peaches. While the Norton has long been a Mount Pleasant stalwart, we enjoyed the Beaujolais-like St. Vincent, added to the winery’s portfolio just last year.

Hungry? The winery doesn’t permit outside food on the property, but you can sup and sip on a deck overlooking the Missouri River Valley at its eatery, Appellation Café. The mesquite-smoked turkey melt, served with a spunky, loose-set red pepper marmalade, is stellar. Before you head out, grab a bottle of Tawny port, a great hostess gift to express some Made-in-MO pride.

5634 High St., Augusta, 636.482.9463, mountpleasant.com, Daily – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; winter hours vary

noboleis Vineyards

A young arrival among Missouri wineries, familyowned Noboleis is nestled on 84 acres of rolling hills in Augusta. Its tasting program is only in its fourth year, but Noboleis is the place to go when you’re looking for a casual wine session. Samples are free, so sip away to find your favorite among its 16-strong wine portfolio. Off-dry red Steepleview and semi-sweet vignoles are the best-sellers, but we’re partial to the oaky, buttery, double-fermented Baril de Blanc, made in the style of a chardonnay.

Outside food is permitted, but in case you didn’t pack a picnic, order a cheese and salume platter, a goat cheese Margherita pizza or a roast beef panini with horseradish brie served aside a berrystudded kale salad. Spend the afternoon under the shade of a large, airy tent while you admire the vineyard and the ancient mulberry tree that lends its silhouette to every Noboleis bottle label.

100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, 636.482.4500, noboleisvineyards.com, Sun. to Fri. – 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sat. – 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.; winter hours vary

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19 Readers’ Choice 2014
20 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com Readers’ Choice 2014

your favorite places to drink

Favorite Bartender

Ted kiLGore, PLanTer’S houSe

1000 Mississippi Ave., st. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

2nd: John Fausz, Olio

3rd: Tony saputo, (formerly) eclipse restaurant

Honorable Mention: Travis Garner, Planter’s house

Favorite Bar

PLanTer’S houSe

1000 Mississippi Ave., st. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

2nd: Taste

3rd: Brennan’s and The royale (tie)

Honorable Mention: Three sixty rooftop

Favorite Beer List

GLobaL brew TaP houSe & LounGe

112 s. Buchanan st., edwardsville, 618.307.5858 and 455 regency Park, O’Fallon, illinois, 618.632.1818, globalbrewtaps.com

2nd: international Tap house

3rd: Bridge Tap house & Wine Bar and Tripel (closed) (tie)

Honorable Mention: 21st street Brewer’s Bar

Favorite Brewery

SChLafLy

2100 Locust st., st. Louis and 7260 southwest Ave., Maplewood, 314.241.2337, schlafly.com

2nd: Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.

3rd: 4 hands Brewing Co. and The Civil Life Brewery Co. (tie)

Honorable Mention: Perennial Artisan Ales

Favorite Cocktails

TaSTe

4584 Laclede Ave., st. Louis, 314.361.1200, tastebarstl.com

2nd: Planter’s house

3rd: eclipse restaurant

Honorable Mention: Blood & sand

Favorite Coffee Shop SumP Coffee

3700 s. Jefferson Ave., st. Louis, 917.412.5670, sumpcoffee.com

2nd: Kaldi’s Coffee

3rd: sacred Grounds Cafe

Honorable Mention: The Mud house and Park Avenue Coffee (tie)

Favorite Happy Hour Café moChi

3221 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.773.5000, cafemochistl.com

2nd: Water street

3rd: Milagro Modern Mexican Honorable Mention: Frazer’s restaurant and Lounge

Favorite Sports Bar LeSTer’S

Various locations, lestersrestaurant.com

2nd: Mike shannon’s steaks and seafood and The Post sports Bar & Grill (tie)

3rd: Amsterdam Tavern Honorable Mention: Friendly’s sports Bar & Grill

Favorite Wine Bar robuST wine bar

Various locations, robustwinebar.com

2nd: sasha’s on shaw

3rd: 33 Wine shop & Tasting Bar and Olio (tie)

Honorable Mention: Balaban’s Wine and Tapas Bar

Favorite Winery

ChandLer hiLL vineyardS

596 defiance road, defiance, Missouri, 636.798.2675, chandlerhillvineyards.com

2nd: Chaumette Vineyards and Winery

3rd: Montelle Winery

Honorable Mention: Mount Pleasant Winery and Noboleis Vineyards (tie)

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22 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com Readers’ Choice 2014
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24 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com Readers’ Choice 2014 favo R ite C andy shop crown candy kitchen Crown Candy kitchen 1401 St. Louis Ave., St. Louis, 314.621.9650, crowncandykitchen.net p hoto by a shley g ieseking
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25 Readers’ Choice 2014

your favorite places to shop

Favorite Butcher Shop

kenriCk’S meaTS & CaTerinG

4324 Weber road, st. Louis, 314.631.2440, kenricks.com

2nd: straub’s

3rd: Baumann’s Fine Meats and G&W Bavarian style sausage (tie)

Honorable Mention: hanlen’s Fine Meats & Catering

Favorite Cakes/Pastries

La PaTiSSerie ChouqueTTe

1626 Tower Grove Ave., st. Louis, 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com

2nd: Brevan’s Patisserie

3rd: Piccione Pastry

Honorable Mention: Pint size Bakery & Coffee

Favorite Candy Shop

Crown Candy kiTChen

1401 st. Louis Ave., st. Louis, 314.621.9650, crowncandykitchen.net

2nd: Kakao Chocolate

3rd: how sweet is This (formerly Oh Lolli Lolli) and Merb’s Candies (tie)

Honorable Mention: Miss M’s Candy Boutique

Favorite Caterer

buTLer’S PanTry

1414 Park Ave., st. Louis, 314.664.7680, butlerspantry.com

2nd: hollyberry Catering

3rd: Catering st. Louis

Honorable Mention: Kenrick’s Meats & Catering

Favorite Chocolate Shop kakao ChoCoLaTe

7272 Manchester road, Maplewood, 314.645.4446 and 2301 s. Jefferson Ave., st. Louis, 314.771.2310, kakaochocolate.com

2nd: Bissinger’s handcrafted Chocolatier

3rd: Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Co.

Honorable mention: rick Jordan Chocolatier

Favorite Coffee Roaster kaLdi’S Coffee

Various locations, kaldiscoffee.com

2nd: sump Coffee

3rd: Chauvin Coffee Company and Kuva Coffee roasters (tie)

Honorable Mention: Blueprint Coffee

Favorite Cooking Class dierberGS

Various locations, dierbergs.com/school

2nd: Kitchen Conservatory 3rd: schnucks

Honorable Mention: Pie Oh My!

Favorite Doughnut Shop

STranGe donuTS

2709 sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.932.5851, strangedonuts.tumblr.com

2nd: World’s Fair doughnuts

3rd: donut drive-in

Honorable Mention: Vincent Van doughnut

Favorite Farmers Market hiSToriC SouLard

farmerS markeT

730 Carroll st., st. Louis, 314.622.4180, soulardmarket.com

2nd: The Land of Goshen Community Market and Tower Grove Farmers Market (tie)

3rd: schlafly Farmers Market

Honorable Mention: Kirkwood Farmers Market

Favorite Grocery Store dierberGS

Various locations, dierbergs.com

2nd: Trader Joe’s

3rd: Fields Foods

Honorable Mention: straub’s

Favorite Kitchenware Store

Sur La TabLe

295 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.993.0566, surlatable.com

2nd: Chef’s shoppe

3rd: Williams-sonoma

Honorable Mention: Cornucopia

Favorite Liquor Store

randaLL’S wineS and SPiriTS

Various locations, shoprandalls.com

2nd: Lukas Liquor superstore

3rd: Friar Tuck

Honorable Mention: The Wine and Cheese Place

Favorite Local Bread

ComPanion

8143 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.352.4770, companionstl.com

2nd: 222 Artisan Bakery

3rd: Black Bear Bakery

Honorable Mention: Great harvest Bread Co.

Favorite Specialty Food Shop

GLobaL foodS markeT

421 N. Kirkwood road, Kirkwood, 314.835.1112, globalfoodsmarket.com and Jay inTernaTionaL foodS

3172 s. Grand Blvd., st. Louis, 314.772.9393, Facebook: Jay international Foods

2nd: extra Virgin, An Olive Ovation

3rd: salume Beddu

Honorable Mention: Green earth Grocery

Favorite Wine Shop

The wine and CheeSe PLaCe

Various locations, wineandcheeseplace.com

2nd: Parker’s Table and The Wine Merchant (tie)

3rd: Bin 51 Wine & spirits

Honorable Mention: starrs

Sweet treats from La Patisserie Chouquette, voted favorite place to shop for cakes and pastries

26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com Readers’ Choice 2014
photo by elizabeth jo C hum
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27 Readers’ Choice 2014

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