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Travel

Africa with Kathy Lette • Sydney’s luxe listings • Tango in Argentina • Ski with the super rich

Brash & braggable

Holidays to write home about

Tailor-Made Travel just for you, with unmatched authenticity and style.

For over 60 years, Abercrombie & Kent has been creating inspiring luxury adventures on all seven continents exploring the world’s most remarkable locations and cultures. Our worldwide portfolio includes the eternal travel favourites — Africa, Egypt, Japan, Argentina, India and Italy — as well as more o -the-beaten-track, emerging destinations that are full of fascination and intrigue such as Saudi Arabia, South Korea, Iceland and Colombia.

A Tailor-Made Journey with A&K is an itinerary designed just for you and your travelling companion. It means seeing the world exactly how you want to see it, on an itinerary fashioned for you by the region’s foremost experts.

If you’re looking for a private handcrafted adventure in true A&K luxury — exquisite accommodation, perfectlypaced itineraries, curated cultural experiences, exclusive access and privileges, and unforgettable encounters with local people and wildlife — start exploring now and find yourself somewhere amazing.

Great East Africa Migration

Uncover the world’s most acclaimed wildlife reserves on this bespoke journey through Kenya and Tanzania. Witness the Great Migrations of the Serengeti, immerse yourself in a Maasai community, and seek out the majestic elephants of Tarangire, while staying in exclusive luxury and style.

12 days from $17,845 pp

Splendours of Rajasthan

Step back into a bygone era of emperors and princes in royal Rajasthan. Discover Delhi’s colonial grandeur. Be awestruck by the perfect elegance of the iconic Taj Mahal. Admire the magnificence of Jaipur’s Amber Fort. Savour a sunset across the exquisite lake palaces of Udaipur, and live like a maharaja in India’s most regal hotels.

9 days from $5,125 pp

Nile in Style

Experience majestic ruins, temples, tombs and the timeless beauty of the Nile on a luxury cruise. From Luxor to Aswan, glide along emerald waters past breathtaking desert landscapes, and explore archeological marvels with your own personal A&K Egyptologist — including the Valley of the Kings and Pyramids of Giza — tailor-made just for you.

9 days from $8,770 pp

Colombia Revealed

From its palm-fringed Caribbean coast to its co ee plantations, peaks and savannahs, Colombia hosts tremendous natural diversity. Coloured villages, street art and museums reinforce the country’s rich artistic traditions, while gastronomy delights at every turn. Journey through Colombia and you’ll agree it’s Latin America’s best kept secret.

14 days from $8,995 pp

Jordan Uncovered

Ancient history and biblical sites vie with beautiful landscapes in this extraordinary desert kingdom where you can wander down ancient Roman streets, dine on traditional cuisine and marvel at some of the starriest skies on earth. The hospitality of the Bedouin will win you over and you’ll be amazed to discover a 60-year-old wine industry.

10 days from $10,600 pp

Splendours of Sicily

Sicily’s successive waves of conquerors have each left their mark on this open-air museum with its Greek temples and Norman churches, Baroque palaces and dramatic cli -top villages. Lush mountains, sun-drenched plains and sandy beaches are a backdrop to the bustling cities of Palermo and Syracuse while its cuisine is a rich blend of styles.

10 days from $12,990 pp

To learn more about the full range of A&K Tailor-Made Journeys, please call Abercrombie & Kent on 1300 851 800, visit www.abercrombiekent.com.au or talk to your travel agent.

Welcome to a new age of travel

When Richard Branson launched Virgin Atlantic almost 40 years ago, most of the established airlines laughed out loud. An airline that was fun? That didn’t treat its passengers as if they were lucky to get a seat? The incumbents muttered into their drinks that it was an experiment that was bound to fail.

They were wrong.

Travel is back, and in this edition of Cruise&Travel we celebrate a sector brought to a standstill by the pandemic but now innovating to survive and thrive.

It’s not just that two years of absence have made the heart grow fonder. It’s also that we have learned to treasure what we get from travel much more. As a result, fresh perspectives on how we can experience travel are now on offer.

The number of luxury hotels in the world is expected to almost double by 2030 – it’s growing at a rate of 5 percent a year. Many hotel brands are branching out: Aman and Four Seasons Resorts now operate private jets tours, limited to small groups who want the very best at any price.

Aman Private Jet Expeditions for instance, are limited to eight or nine couples. Travellers fly aboard an Airbus ACJ 318 or

319, with private cars, drivers and guides in between. The upcoming expedition, named The Grandest Tour, delights guests with a 21-night experience to nine Aman properties in nine different destinations – from Japan to Laos through to India and Greece, and finishing in Italy.

But it comes at a price: $6,949 a day or $152,888 per person.

The Ritz-Carlton is set to launch a yacht collection. And in Shanghai, the InterContinental Shanghai Wonderland is built into the walls of an abandoned quarry. Eighteen floors are under water, you can dine in an underwater restaurant surrounded by thousands of fish, and guests can kayak around the quarry or scale 88 meters of cliff face.

Destinations are also experiencing a roaring renaissance. Nile river ships operated by luxury brands such Abercrombie & Kent, are selling out, as are African safaris and journeys to the polar regions. The new travel maxim is: “If not now, when?”

Cruising is also experiencing a strong resurgence. A flotilla of vessels with fresh design features is sliding down the slipways and finding fans among those who once would never have considered holidays on the water.

In the luxury and ultra-luxury areas, we can’t wait to see Seven Seas Grandeur. We carry some of the architectural designs in this edition, and the craft that has gone into planning the ship’s public spaces would easily win architectural awards on land. It is bringing art and architecture to the high seas. It’s time to dust off the bucket list! CT

Peter Lynch, Editor-in-chief and publisher

Come fly

with me

Hotel and resort companies now offer bespoke journeys aboard private jets.

Travel

March 2023

Editor-in-chief and publisher

Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Executive editor

Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Sub editor

Claire Waddell

Art director Catherine Martin

Commercial director

Phil Mahony phil@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Advertising sales manager

Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Contributors and writers

Tallis Boerne Marcus, Sue Bryant, Bernadette Chua, Emma Featherstone, Louise Goldsbury, Fiona Harper, Gabriella Le Breton, Teresa Ooi, Gabrielle Sander

Subscriptions

Phone 02 8227 6486 – Australia

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Cover: Penguin-spotting in Antarctica. cruisepassenger.com.au

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Luxe

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Cruise&Travel magazine is published by Big Splash Media Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street

Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au

Phone: +61 2 9356 8888

Managing director

Peter Lynch

Don’t try to leave, Argentina…

Argentinians understand the essentials of life: football, tango, food, football and fun.

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Contents / Autumn 2023 Contents MULTI MEDIA COMMUNICATIONS 46

Skiing with the super-rich

Where private jets, bulletproof chalets and ski butlers are the norms.

66

Last word

Wake up to the very latest trend in travel: Sleep tourism.

With LATAM Airlines you have more of South America

Fly with the best airline in South America and enjoy the largest network of destinations in the region, with more than 140 cities.

Words | BERNADETTE CHUA

Anumber of reports have forecast a strong recovery for the high-end luxury market, with wellheeled travellers spending big post lockdowns.

According to experts at Virtuoso’s 34th annual Travel Week, which was held in Las Vegas, outbound leisure travel sales have shown a strong rebound even in markets that had experienced hard border closures.

The American market has outperformed its 2019 numbers by 122 per cent in 2022, while Australians were not far behind on 113 per cent. People travelling with spouses or significant others represented the largest segment of holidaymakers, followed by those travelling with friends and, lastly, those holidaying with children. Interestingly, solo travel is on the rise, particularly from the 65-plus age group: there has been an increase from four per cent to a staggering 18 per cent in 2022. The study also found younger, richer travellers are getting out there, with the 18–34 age group averaging 2.2 more international trips in the past year than the 65-plus age group, as well as 1.3 more domestic trips.

Around 74 per cent of Virtuoso’s luxury travellers say “creating a travel experience that best fits my expectations is more important than price”, with plans to increase their previous year’s spend of USD$20,700 per person by 34 per cent to USD$27,800 in the next year.

In terms of destinations, market research firm Global Market Insights found tourists are looking for safari experiences, particularly in the Middle East and Africa. The Middle East and Africa region is increasingly becoming more popular for animal watching, due to its sheer biodiversity.

The report also found luxury travellers are planning their holidays around adventure and sporting events. For the American market, agents are creating bespoke packages that allow travellers to attend events like the Super Bowl.

Due to the surge in disposable income, the Asia-Pacific luxury tourism market is booming, accounting for more than 28 per cent of travel in 2021. Australians are demanding more upscale and unique experiences.

Islands and beaches are topping travellers’ lists for holidays, followed by trips with a wellness component or an ocean cruise. Wellness-focused trips were the only category to see a year-over-year increase compared to other categories: 2021 (13 per cent) versus 2022 (24 per cent).

And now more than ever, people are looking to disconnect from their routines and two years of lockdown. More than ever, these travellers say looking to connect with new people, cultures and ideas is their primary reason for travel in 2022, with purpose-driven travel still paramount.

Environmentally friendly practices and the preservation of natural and cultural heritage are top-of-mind concerns, especially among generation Z and Millennials. Fifty-six per cent of generation Z travellers and 46 per cent of Millennials are willing to pay more for eco-friendly tourism practices and travel that preserves natural and cultural heritage. CT

HEY, big spender

Luxury travellers are leading the way as tourism booms after the tumultuous past couple of years.

“Islands and beaches are topping travellers’ lists for holidays, followed by trips with a wellness component.”

Robbie Williams: “Unlike lots of celebs, I only take a private jet if I really need to”

The singer-songwriter loves Austria and Vegas – but nothing beats British holiday camps.

Golf is my recent addiction

What I need from a holiday depends on what addiction I’ve got at the time. Golf is an acceptable middle-aged addiction. The 1990s would have been very different! Just give me a golf course and I’m happy. It gives me purpose. I get to raise my serotonin levels, walk for five miles, better my handicap. There’s also meditation involved because I’m just thinking about the next shot. I’ve got a chequered past with the sport, but my handicap is currently 12. Since lockdown I’ve been playing online – it does the job but obviously it’s not the same.

Some of the best holidays have cost me nothing!

My dad worked as an entertainment manager and compère at holiday camps, like Perranporth, Great Yarmouth and Scarborough. I used to live with him for three weeks in the

summer. I’ve spent tens of thousands on holidays since then and those early days were still the best. Simple pleasures are what I aim for. I don’t do vulgar displays of wealth.

We love to ski

Normally we’d go at least once a season. I love Aspen, Zermatt for the views, Courchevel, Lech and Ischgl. Any place that my wife Ayda sees on the TV, she just points at and says, “We’ve got to go there.”

I’ve just learnt to go, “Yes darling”, because, as the saying goes, “Happy wife, happy life”. But if we went everywhere she wanted to, I would never be working again in my life.

Pre-pandemic, I was on the road a lot. In 2019 alone I went to Formentera, Ibiza, Marseille, Romania, Dubai, the United States, Australia and Austria.

Before my wife came along, living in Los Angeles was like a vacation

I wasn’t adventurous and didn’t feel the need to go anywhere. She smoked me out of the house and then the kids smoked me even further out. I would have been a happy Howard Hughes hermit if it wasn’t for them.

I love Mustique because it offers privacy

I have never seen a paparazzo there and you can breathe and let your stomach out. Apart from its outstanding beauty and hospitality, what also makes it unique is that it’s cashless. You don’t need any money or credit cards because you sign for everything.

The family comes with me while I’m on tour as we love being a unit

The kids are homeschooled, but they do plenty of activities and sports with other kids their own age. We’re terrified of raising maladjusted brats.

Hawaii has been one of our favourite family holidays

Two years ago, we went there to celebrate my daughter Coco’s first birthday. We went ziplining, swimming with dolphins and night-snorkelling with manta rays. My sons Teddy and Charlie also had their first golf lesson there. As long as I have my laptop, mobile and antidepressants in my hand luggage, then I’m happy! My needs are few.

would only take a private jet if it was a necessity. I’m not perfect, but I try in little ways.

Travel disasters? I’ve had plenty But none of them are publishable in a respectable paper!

Pre-children, one of the most remote places I’d visited was Tetiaroa in French Polynesia

It’s a small island near Tahiti, which was once Marlon Brando’s private island before being turned into a private luxury resort. It’s a drag to get to – taking a day and a half of travel – but the people are great and the villas are faultless. However, I need a bit more action, whatever it is, or a golf course. And there was neither.

Austria is one of my favourite places to perform

When I first went in the 1990s, I was told not to be fazed if the audience wasn’t very warm. But I had the best audience ever. They treated me like I was a rock god, like the best version of Michael Jackson, and it’s been the same way every time I’ve gone back. I also love performing in Germany, Ireland and Australia.

A bit of action

Opposite: Robbie’s love of golf has led to a J.Lindeberg collab. This page, from top: Ski-ing, Switzerland; swimming with dolphins, Hawaii; Las Vegas.

Las Vegas is like Marmite – you’ll either love it or you’ll hate it

Everyone knows what Vegas is about and what it has to offer. I would say go, get it out of your system and you might be pleasantly surprised!

I’m trying to be more conscious of my carbon footprint

Unlike a lot of jet-setting celebs, I

There’s nothing I hate about travelling ...now that you can get a WiFi signal just about anywhere

The Crowne Plaza in Melbourne is one of my favourite hotels I love the waterfront views, its proximity to lots of great restaurants and shops, and its grandness. It feels like I’m going home when I go there. CT

Interview by Sarah Ewing

Big, brash & braggable

this is the year that will see more people jetting around the world to fulfil their postponed holiday dreams. Overseas ski trips, heli-tours, private residences and ultra-luxe resorts with a unique twist are among the hottest trends.

According to Virtuoso, the leading global network of luxury travel advisors, the top five international cities booked by Australians and New Zealanders are Singapore, Honolulu, London, Paris and recently reopened Tokyo. The most popular countries include European favourites Italy, France, Spain and the Greek Islands, as well as the UK, the US, Japan, Thailand and South Africa. At the top of the list of domestic destinations for 2023 is Perth, followed by Broome and Darwin.

/ Branson’s new private island

One of the most exclusive options for high-level luxury travellers is Sir Richard Branson’s new private island in the Caribbean. Located across the sea from his legendary home on Necker Island, Moskito comprises 10 properties, three of which are now available for holiday rentals when the owners are not using them.

The Branson Estate has three Balinese-style villas, which sleep up to 22 guests. The Oasis Estate, whose owner remains anonymous, is a nine-bedroom home designed to resemble a yacht, with pools, firepits and a swim-up bar. The Point Estate is a collection of clifftop thatch-roofed cottages overlooking the British Virgin Islands. Guests in each retreat can mingle in communal spaces such as the

Take the plunge Clockwise, from left: Dubai’s Atlantis The Royal and the hotel’s Nobu by the Beach restaurant; Echo camp, Antarctica.

Beach Pavilion, while divers can explore the wreck of the Kodiak Queen, one of the surviving ships from the Pearl Harbor attack that has since been transformed into an underwater art installation.

Rates start at US$17,500 (AU$25,280) per night including meals, drinks, watersports and the services of an estate manager and a private chef. moskitoisland.virgin.com

/ Space-age camping on ice

Echo, a high-end camp inspired by astronauts, has been unveiled in Antarctica. The futuristic site comprises six sleeping pods with heating, panoramic windows, king beds, bathrooms and walls adorned with photos taken by a former International Space Station commander. A central hub houses a bar, dining room and library, connected by tunnels.

Between November and February, Echo is run by a team of 100 staff including pilots, polar guides, camp managers, doctors and chefs. The adventure begins in Cape Town for a safety briefing before boarding a Gulfstream G550 for a five-hour flight to the campsite’s ice runway. An eight-night program costs US$104,000 (about AU$150,245) per person, which includes an excursion to the South Pole. white-desert.com

/ Decadence in Dubai

Billed as “the most ultra-luxury experiential resort in the world”, Dubai’s Atlantis The Royal flexed its star power when Beyoncé performed at the opening party in January. The singer stayed in the 1,128-square-metre Royal Mansion, the world’s largest hotel suite, with four bedrooms, a private elevator and lobby, a library, an outdoor kitchen, an infinity pool and butler service. This penthouse is priced from US$100,000 (AU$144,465) per night, but the resort has another 795 rooms from US$850 (AU$1225). Guests can choose between 17 restaurants run by chefs such as Nobu and Heston Blumenthal, ride

Luxury travel this year is all about extravagance – private islands, floating villas and decadence. Louise Goldsbury indulges her senses.

WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS ESCAPES

more than 100 waterslides in a massive waterpark, swim with sea lions, surf in a wave pool or go ten-pin bowling on site. atlantis.com

/ All-inclusive safari in style

Earth Lodge, in Greater Kruger Park’s Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve, has emerged from a makeover. One of South Africa’s most-renowned luxury lodges, this refurbished sanctuary offers new suites and a terrace lounge framed by a full-length pool, from where guests can view the wildlife. A stay at Earth Lodge includes all meals, drinks, private dinners in the bush, two safaris a day, and nature walks. sabisabi.com/lodges/earth-lodge

/ Tahiti’s first floating villa

A yet-to-be-named houseboat in Bora Bora is to be launched this year by Elyt Charter Tahiti. Inspired by ancient Polynesian voyaging canoes and their overwater lifestyle, this solar-powered catamaran is a significant upgrade with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, a rooftop lounge, a kitchen and dining area, and a water-treatment facility. The absence of a diesel engine makes it silent and less disruptive to the lagoon’s marine life. Renting the floating villa costs €1,500 per night (about AU$2460). www.elytchartertahiti.com

/ Mexican wave of waterfront resorts

The luxe beachside playground of Los Cabos is home to the first Waldorf Astoria in Mexico and Zadún, one of five Ritz-Carlton Reserve properties in the world.

Top tier

Clockwise, from above: Ambiente in Arizona; InterContinental Hayman Island Residences; Elyt water-villa; Earth Lodge, South Africa; Aman jet tours.

Four more five-star hotels are opening along the coastline this year: St Regis, Park Hyatt, Four Seasons and the Hyatt Rancho Pescadero. The Vidanta East Cape, Amanvari and Soho House & Beach Club are expected to open in 2024. Set between mountains, desert, the Sea of Cortes and the Pacific Ocean, Los Cabos is known for its year-round sunshine, lively nightlife, outstanding spas, top-ranked golf courses and fresh-caught-seafood restaurants. visitloscabos.travel

/ Arizona’s desert delight

Just opened in February, the adults-only Ambiente is immersed in the breathtaking landscape of Sedona. Stay in one of 40 cube-shaped, glass-encased atriums with private rooftop decks and firepits – perfect for star-gazing or admiring the red rock scenery after a day of jeep tours, hot-air balloon rides, wine-tasting or e-biking. ambientesedona.com

/ Wintjiri Wiru at Uluru

A spectacular new experience is coming to the Northern Territory from May. Presented every night of the year, Wintjiri Wiru will be the largest light, laser, projection and drone show performed on a regular basis anywhere in the world, with 1000 illuminated drones lighting up the outback sky in a modern expression of an ancient Anangu story. The local custodians of the land were closely involved in the project, which combines a traditional Inma soundtrack and narration in the Pitjantjatjara language. The signature experience is a three-hour Wintjiri Wiru Sunset Dinner ($385 per person) on the dunes, starting with cocktails and canapes while the sun sets over Kata Tjuta and Uluru, followed by a hamper of native foods paired with premium Australian wines. The show can be added to a stay at Longitude 31 or Sails in the Desert. ayersrockresort.com.au

/ Privacy in the Whitsundays

Elton John and his family spent the new year at InterContinental Hayman Island’s Residences – they can only be reached by boat or helicopter. The private retreats are on a hilltop overlooking the Whitsundays. All self-contained residences have four bedrooms with a wraparound balcony, a barbecue area and an infinity pool. Guests also have access to the resort’s 24-hour gym, spa, restaurants and bars, and they can book private charters to Whitehaven Beach or the Great Barrier Reef. haymanisland.intercontinental.com

/ Aman jet expeditions

As the private-jet obsession continues to soar, Aman has released more amazing itineraries revolving around its high-end accommodation. Departing in April 2023, a 19-night journey dips into the diverse cultures surrounding six Aman hotels in six countries. Up to 12 guests will be whisked from Kyoto, Japan to the Philippines and Indonesia before flying to Oman, Turkey and Morocco. More round-the-world, jet-setting adventures are available throughout the year. aman.com CT

Cool (rich) cats

Return to the snow

Many people haven’t seen snow since 2019, which means icy escapes are hot this year. A helicopter is the preferred mode of transport for those seeking untouched slopes. Eleven Experience has a new heli-skiing program in the Chilean Andes, based at the sevensuite Rio Palena Lodge, while luxury adventure specialist Pelorus offers a backcountry skiing trip in Denali, Alaska.

elevenexperience.com; pelorusx.com

Aspen adds alpine fun

Aspen, renowned as the ski destination of the stars, has added the AspenX range of exclusive activities. The Buckhorn Cabin Elevated Experience is an apres-ski celebration held at 3285 metres. Guests ski to the alpine cabin for lunch and then depart on a snowcat. There’s also an opportunity

for a private dinner at the Aspen Mountain Club (usually reserved for members) after the ski resort has closed, before returning to Aspen by riding down the Silver Queen gondola under the moonlight. Summer options include a hike and dine, or fly fish and dine. aspenx.com

“Elton John and his family spent the new year at InterContinental Hayman Island’s Residences – they can only be reached by boat or helicopter.”

Indulge your senses

In the forests of Victoria’s Dandenong Ranges, an upscale property from Six Senses will be the luxury hotel group’s first in the Australian market. The centrepiece will be the Burnham Beeches estate’s 1930s art deco mansion with 43 guestrooms, a welcome lounge and terrace, a restaurant with outdoor seating,

a library bar and a rooftop area. A Six Senses spa with a tea lounge, treatment rooms, a gym, a hydro area and a sauna will pamper guests, while a farm and herb garden will enhance the food offering. There are also plans to include glamping once the 22-hectare resort opens in 2025. Six Senses is also planning for an ecolodge in Zimbabwe, a resort on Grand Bahama and a Swiss ski resort.

Cutting Edge

Celebrity Edge will be returning to Australia for the 2024/25 summer. The ship is part of a massive Celebrity cruise program of more than 500 sailings which will visit more than 250 destinations across 70 countries in 16 ships, including Celebrity Ascent, the newest addition to Celebrity’s Edge class. Celebrity Edge will sail out of Australia between October 2024 and April 2025 on itineraries from three to 14 nights. The ship will also head to new ports across the Pacific, including Fiji, Samoa, American Samoa and Tonga. Among other Celebrity Cruises’ highlights is a range of new European offerings. Seven ships will port out of Europe, including Celebrity Apex which will sail a brand-new 12-night Norwegian Fjord and Arctic Circle itinerary. Also exciting is the deployment of two ships in Asia. Celebrity Millennium will sail from Tokyo on a series of 12-night itineraries to destinations such as Mt Fuji, Kyoto and Osaka.

Check it out July ‘Checked’ 80-litre suitcase, AU$375.

LAND AHOY

Gala dinners at Angkor Wat, sunsets at the pyramids of Giza and wildlife viewing in Kruger National Park are just some of the highlights of Scenic’s Iconic Land Journeys. The 10-day escorted Soul of South Korea tour journeys from Seoul to the bamboo forests of Gwangju and the markets of Busan. The Iberian Grandeur 11-day luxury package traverses Portugal and Spain. The 28-day Ultimate African Expedition from Cape Town to Nairobi includes visits to Victoria Falls and a Maasai village, an overnight stay at Ghost Mountain and game drives in search of the ‘big five’ – lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and buffalo.

HIGH FIVE!

Norwegian Cruise Line has revealed it will be returning to Africa after a successful inaugural season in the region. Norwegian Jade sailed the first NCL Africa season and now Norwegian Dawn will be joining the party, with both ships exploring the region between January and March 2024. Most itineraries have a strong focus on wildlifespotting, with NCL giving guests the best possible chance of spotting the ‘big five’. The 12-day Africa: South Africa & Madagascar itinerary will take you to Port Louis in Mauritius, the rainforestmeets-reef destination of Pointe des Galets on the island of Réunion, and to Richards Bay and Cape Town in South Africa, as well as two stops in Mozambique. Two 12-day Cape Town round-trips are also on offer, with stops in Namibia, as well as South Africa’s Addo Elephant Park, the DumaZulu Cultural Village and along the famous Garden Route farms.

Circus comes to town

Cunard has partnered with Circa, an Australian contemporary circus company, so guests can experience all the fun of the fair when Queen Elizabeth returns for the 2023/24 season. Circa has made waves in the entertainment industry, performing in front of more than 1.5 million people across 40 countries and six continents. Expect daring, artistic performances that express a hybrid of movement, dance, theatre and circus. The shows will take place among the glamour of Queen Elizabeth’s Royal Court Theatre from February 1 to March 10, 2024.

Music to your ears Apple AirPods Max in Green, AU$899.

All aboard

Accor is reviving the original Orient Express carriages for train enthusiasts and they are set to hit the rails in 2025. After discovering the 17 carriages in Poland, Accor commissioned French interior designer Maxime d’Angeac to bring the train back to its former glory. Of particular note in the design is the expansive Presidential suite which takes up an entire carriage. The suite will have a spacious bathroom, a living area adorned with Lalique glass panels,

antique and handmade furniture, a fireplace and a velvet-lined bedroom. The train will also include restaurant cars and suites with private bathrooms. It’s all part of Accor’s ambitious plan to revive the Orient Express brand. The hospitality group is also opening two Orient Express hotels, La Minerva in Rome and Orient Express Palazzo Donà Giovannelli in Venice, in 2024.

Life at the top

Set to fly first- and business-class travellers in style, Qantas has revealed details on the sleek seats at the pointy end of its new A350. The planes will fly passengers non-stop from Australia to London or New York from late 2025. Space is pivotal and the airline has reduced the total number of seats from 300 to 238. The first-class suite is dripping in luxury, with a huge bed, 32-inch television, reclining chair, wardrobe and a two-person dining table. The Business suites are also not short on opulence, with a two-metre flat-bed, leather ottoman, an 18-inch touchscreen and a dining table. The Qantas A350 will offer free, highspeed WiFi and first and business suites will provide multiple device-charging options, including wireless. There will also be Bluetooth connectivity, allowing passengers to connect their own headphones to the in-flight entertainment system. Details are yet to be announced on a Wellbeing Zone for all passengers aboard, along with other additional features on the new aircraft.

AROUND THE WORLD WITH VIKING

Viking has announced its 2024/2025 world cruise itineraries, which include a new voyage that stops in 37 countries and 85 ports over 180 days. The World Voyage I leaves Florida on December 19, 2024, before eventually making its way back to New York, with overnight stops in iconic locations such as Mumbai, Sydney, Istanbul and London. You can join the voyage for shorter portions, including from Los Angeles on January 5, 2025. The world cruises are aboard Viking Sky which has all-veranda staterooms, a Nordic-influenced spa and the serene Wintergarden. Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen says: “Our previous world cruises sold out in a matter of weeks, and we continue to see strong demand for extended voyages.”

Pretty in pink Zimmermann High Tide Lantern mini-dress, $995.

FLIGHT STATUS

It’s the return of excess, with Etihad revealing it will bring back its luxury first-class cabins, The Residence and The Apartment. The airline has ambitious plans to restore its A380s which were grounded in the pandemic and initially plans to fly between Abu Dhabi and Heathrow. And starting in April, Etihad will fly the Abu Dhabi-New York route twice daily. The highly coveted Residence includes a three-room apartment with a private bathroom with shower, a double bed and butler and chef service. The Residence has the highest airfare in the industry with pre-pandemic prices starting at US$20,000. The Apartments are studio flats set across a single aisle so guests can have their own living space complete with a leather lounge chair. There is a flatbed and a 24-inch swivelling LCD TV.

Champagne tastes

OUT OF AFRICA

Spanning over seven African countries and 22 days, Abercrombie & Kent’s impressive private jet tours take in the monuments of ancient Egypt, the wildlife of the Serengeti and the vanishing mountain gorillas of Rwanda. On a special chartered Boeing 757 with lie-flat seats, there is an executive chef and physician on board and in-flight internet access. “We’ve been planning safaris for more than 60 years and this is the most comprehensive African journey we’ve ever offered,” said A&K Founder, Co-Chairman and CEO Geoffrey Kent. The trip includes experiences such as riding camels through the Sahara dunes and even attending a Voodoo ceremony in West Africa. But there is a hefty price tag for this unique holiday. Fares start from AU$189,500 per person.

At the forefront of food and beverage, Oceania Cruises’ new ship, Vista, will showcase impressive bars and mixology offerings. But the most delectable new addition is the Moët & Chandon Champagne Experience. The three-course pairing extravaganza features rare vintages from the luxury Champagne brand. For instance, start with a Mediterranean sea bass tartare accompanied by the mature 2013 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Brut, followed by a duck foie gras terrine paired with the silky Moët & Chandon Nectar Imperial Champagne. The experience concludes with a cured beef tenderloin coupled with the elegant and refined Moët & Chandon Imperial Rose Champagne. Also returning is the signature Dom Pérignon Experience which will be part of the intimate dining venue, Privée.

Shore thing

The Port Authority of New South Wales took out our Readers’ Choice Award 2022 for Best Cruise Port. And the organisation has made leaps and bounds in its sustainability efforts to reduce emissions and achieve net zero by 2040. “For the next two years, we will focus on progressing the shore power project for Bays Port (Glebe Island and White Bay) and creating a world-class integrated and sustainable port of the future,” says the port authority’s CEO, Phil Holliday. “The shore power project is on track for two berths, instead of one, to be ready for commissioning by the end of 2024. Work is also progressing on installing solar panels in key locations across our ports … and on several energyefficiency measures at our key sites.”

NICE NICÉ

Old-world glamour is returning to Nice’s historic boardwalk with a rejuvenated 19th-century architectural jewel overlooking Promenade des Anglaise. The opening of the Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel comes after a twoyear project to restore the building to its Belle Époque era glory. The 175-year-old hotel has 151 rooms including 38 suites, an Anantara Spa, a ballroom and a bar offering 360-degree views. The opulent rooftop restaurant, SEEN by Olivier, offers contemporary Mediterranean fare from Portuguese chef Olivier da Costa. He will present Niçoise specialties showcasing local ingredients, such as sea urchins and oysters, as well as truffles from the nearby village of Le Rouret. The hotel will also offer a full-day ‘In the Footsteps of Coco Chanel’ tour.

VISTA GETS A SISTER

The luxurious Oceania Vista is getting a sister. Oceania Cruises plans to launch Allura in 2025. The 1200-guest ship will be the eighth vessel in the fleet and will host an array of inventive dining experiences including Aquamar Kitchen and Ember, an upscale restaurant serving reimagined American classics – both will make their debut on Vista this coming May. There will also be the largest standard staterooms and a new Chef’s Studio. More details of Oceania Allura’s inaugural season will be revealed later this year, but she will sail across destinations in Europe and the Americas.

Australia’s native foods First Nations Food Companion, AU$49.99.

36 DAYS | 16 GUIDED TOURS | 10 COUNTRIES

SET SAIL OCT 2024; MAR 2025

From $19,995pp in Veranda stateroom SAVE up to $3,600 per couple

Trace the great Spice Routes that inspired Marco Polo himself during a 36-day voyage into the heart of the Mediterranean and Asia. Follow in the wake of ancient merchant travelers, crossing the Suez Canal to discover the regions’ best-loved ports in the Levant, the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia. Enriching overnights in Athens, Haifa, Mumbai, Colombo and Bangkok help you truly connect with this intriguing part of the world.

SELLING FAST, LIMITED AVAILABILITY. BOOK NOW.

LUXE LISTINGS

As more and more premium hotels grace Sydney’s skyline, it’s clear the city is shaping up as one of the world’s best destinations for a luxury hotel stay. With major brands such as the Waldorf Astoria, Fullerton, Capella and the W opening in the Emerald City, visitors will be spoilt for choice of luxury hotels.

/ Ace Hotel Sydney

The Ace Hotel group marked its first venture into the Southern Hemisphere earlier this year, opening a 257-room hotel in Sydney’s Surry Hills.

There are plenty of options for eating and drinking, including the hotel’s rooftop restaurant Kiln, headed by local chef Mitch Orr; a ground-floor neighbourhood restaurant Loam; the café-bar Good Chemistry; and a suave cocktail bar in the hotel lobby.

There’s also an extensive collection of art on display, sourced from contemporary Australian artists and curated by Nina Fitzgerald of The Impact Lab. The collection has an emphasis on First Nations artists, as well as their stories and local history.

/ Kimpton Margot Sydney

The boutique Kimpton Margot Sydney had a love-infused opening day on Valentine’s Day 2022 and has been treating guests to opulence ever since. The heritage-listed building is now fully decked-out as a high-end hotel, with 172 rooms across six flours, topped by a rooftop swimming pool. It’s nestled in a prime location between Hyde Park and the Queen Victoria Building, within walking distance to Darling Harbour. Luxury is served up as soon as you step foot in the lobby with its expansive

A Sydney splurge

From far left: Crown Towers Sydney; the grand staircase at the history-rich Fullerton Hotel Sydney; boutique chic at Ace Hotel.

decor and marble columns. Don’t miss celebrity chef Luke Mangan’s on-site restaurant, Luke’s Kitchen, and you’re also just a touch away from The Wilmot Bar, where you have your pick of 35 gins and 40 whiskeys.

Rooms are spacious and meticulously put together, and the hotel’s policy of “anything that fits through the door” allows you to bring your pets with you.

/ Crown Sydney

Crown Sydney has continued to add to its offerings since it opened in late 2020, with the Crown Casino and a new luxurious spa facility.

You can expect premium dining at Woodcut, Nobu, a’Mare and Omakase –all popular options in this desirable harbourside location.

Crown hotel’s new wellness centre sits on the sixth floor of the Barangaroo building and is laying claim to being the first spa facility in Australia to offer specialist quartz hot-sand therapy and touchless spa wave therapy. There are also relaxation rooms, vitality pools, infrared saunas and steam rooms, as well as a yoga and meditation area.

Crown Resorts took more than $2 billion to put together – and it’s truly reflected in the luxury and range of facilities you find on site.

/ A by Adina

Branded as a “high-end living apartment hotel concept”, courtesy of TFE Hotels, A by Adina Sydney opened to the world in mid-2021. The NSW property was the

Sydney is fast becoming a luxury-hotel lover’s dream with high-end brands stamping their mark on the city with several new openings, writes Tallis Boerne Marcus.

LUXE HOTELS SYDNEY

Stunning, inside and out

Clockwise, from right: Ace Hotel’s The Lobby; artist’s impression of W Sydney; lobby entry at Crown Towers Sydney; the Fullerton Hotel, Martin Place.

second opening for the brand in Australia, following A by Adina Canberra.

The hotel on Hunter Street comprises 82 studio apartments, 104 one-bedroom offerings, 194 apartments and eight two-bedroom units.

It is also home to an Australian first, a sky lobby that stands 100 metres above the ground, all while customers sit within the golden crown facade of the building.

Rooms have intuitive technology that is sure to thrill guests with its ability to automatically raise the blinds, turn lights on and off, and pre-prepare the room temperature by controlling the air conditioning. A seamless welcome on entry is all but guaranteed.

Even the extractor fans in the bathroom operate automatically via sensors, with the control system described as being “a bit like a high-tech butler”.

/ Fullerton Hotel Sydney

A proud-standing hotel among the history and hustle of Martin Place, the Fullerton Hotel Sydney marked the first dabble into the Australian market for Fullerton Hotels and Resorts.

Although the hotel opened in late 2019, the interruptions of the pandemic mean many are still to get the chance to experience this new Sydney stay.

More than 38,000 working hours were poured into making the old building into the 416-room hotel it is now.

All classic Fullerton amenities are available, such as its signature afternoon tea and famed Singapore Sling cocktail.

The hotel has already captured many hearts, receiving rave reviews from customers, with particular praise for its location, facilities and comfort.

/ Porter House Sydney

Flinging open its doors in September 2022, Porter House has brought a new five-star experience to Sydney.

Sitting just a block from Hyde Park on Castlereagh Street, the hotel is an interesting mixture of the old and the new – the 36-storey modern tower interconnects via a walkway to a 146-year building.

This represents a new chapter in the Victorian building’s long journey to becoming a 122-room hotel, having previously housed a tobacco factory, a furniture manufacturer and famous leather merchants, among others.

You can treat yourself to the work of Executive Chef Emrys Jones at Dixson & Sons, enjoy all-day food at Henry’s Bread and Wine or sip smoothly at Spice Trader, a top-floor cocktail bar.

/ Waldorf Astoria

This hotel is still a little way off, with a slated opening time of early 2025, but it’s safe to assume the Waldorf Astoria bringing its luxury offering to Sydney will be well worth the wait.

Waldorf Astoria, owned by the Hilton Group, cemented its reputation as a luxury brand with its famous Park Avenue outpost in New York City. The Sydney location will stand tall above the CBD, with 179 rooms and 41 suites spread across 28 storeys. It aims to become the premier luxury hotel in Circular Quay and will be in good company with the Shangri-La, Four Seasons and Park Hyatt all nearby.

/ W Sydney

The hotly anticipated opening of the W Sydney has finally been locked in for a 2023 launch. The hotel’s general manager, Craig Seaward, says: “There have been delays, but trust me, it will be worth the wait.”

W Sydney will follow the hotel brand’s openings in Brisbane and Melbourne as part of W Hotels’ Australian presence and will be a key figurehead of a new $1 billion residential, accommodation and entertainment ‘ribbon’ complex. The hotel will pack in a massive 585 rooms, an IMAX theatre and a retail precinct.

The interior design will mirror the harbour around it, with wave and ripple motifs scattered throughout the contemporary furnishings. Guests will be able to look forward to a colourful infinity pool, a two-storey rooftop bar and extensive fitness facilities.

“The hotly anticipated opening of the W Sydney has finally been locked in for a 2023 launch. There have been delays, but trust me, it will be worth the wait.”

HappineOpenforss

Captain Cook Cruises

WHICH FIJI IS FOR YOU?

pristine and postcard-perfect, Fiji is an island nation made up of endless sandy beaches, spectacular coral gardens and languid lagoons. It’s where visitors are welcomed by wide smiles and, remarkably, almost everyone can sing. Its two main islands, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, are the gateway to not only the rich Fijian culture but relaxed barefoot stays and enriching experiences suitable for all holidaymakers from amorous couples to adventurers. Its 333 islands, the result of significant volcanic activity, just beg to be explored. Best of all, Fiji is within easy reach of Australia meaning once you hang up the out-of-office sign you’ll be kicking back with a cocktail while watching a blazing sunset sooner than you think.

Here are our picks for where to stay and what to do for couples, families, adventurers, cruisers, luxury buffs and eco-warriors. Wherever you choose to go and however you choose to do it, Fiji has an island (and hammock) calling your name.

Take me there

Welcoming Fiji is a perennial favourite with Australians.

Fiji really does have something for everyone. Sheriden Rhodes finds what’s on offer for every type of holidaymaker.

COUPLES

Fiery sunsets, swaying palms and languid lagoons: it’s easy to see why Fiji is one of the most romantic places on Earth. Throw in balmy weather and serenading Fijians and watch the amorous factor skyrocket.

+ Must-do

Hold hands and snorkel through fish-filled waters or simple laze in a hammock swung between coconut trees. As the sun sets, be seduced by pool- or beach-side dining, sand between your toes, or enjoy an intimate candlelit dinner at the end of a jetty. On a clear night take a walk on an empty beach or stargaze from your own private pool.

World-class spas allow couples to be pampered and enjoy a relaxing time together, often to the soundtrack of lapping waves. Enjoy everything from a grass-roots Fijian Bobo massage in an open-air bure through to the mindblowing Dusk Till Dawn spa and sleep experience. Offered at the Shangri-La’s Chi, The Spa, the marathon treatment involves an overnight stay beginning with a massage and private alfresco bath under the stars and a facial the next day.

+ Stay

The choice of amorous stays is endless. Choose from the Mamanuca archipelago, a string of islands much loved by Australians where two adults-only escapes are a mere hop from the mainland. Or opt for barefoot luxury at one of Fiji’s many romantic island resorts in the Yasawas or on Taveuni, Vomo or Royal Davui. Within moments of arriving across emerald-coloured reefs, you’ll be toasting each other with cocktails, the scent of frangipani in the air.

Reminiscent of Bora Bora and the Maldives, Likuliku Lagoon Resort’s most sought-after rooms are its luxe over-water bures. Wake to dreamy views of the Pacific Ocean, swim and snorkel straight from your room and enjoy a picnic for two on Honeymoon Island. This luxury, couples-only resort, boasting Fiji’s first and only over-water bungalows, sits in a protected bay. The 45-bure resort offers 10 over-water bures that embrace indooroutdoor living. Guests wake up to superlative views of the Pacific Ocean, while glass floor panels allow viewing of

the natural aquarium beneath. Doors open to the deck and a ladder descends into the warm waters, allowing direct access for impromptu swims.

At Tokoriki Island Resort – a perennial favourite with honeymooners – couples stay in 36 contemporary bures (18 of which are beachfront pool bures), take siestas in hammocks and shower alfresco under the stars. Tropical sojourns don’t get more romantic than this.

At Royal Davui Island meanwhile, every guest is greeted by an enthusiast welcome song as they embark on their romantic island stay. This five-star, adults-only islet off Viti Levu’s Pacific Harbour and near Beqa (pronounced Ben-ga) Island is surrounded by azure waters and a spectacular fringing reef.

All but one of Royal Davui’s 16 villas are perched atop the rocky hillside, meaning no direct beach access but stunning Greek Island-esque views. All come with their own private plunge pools and are equally seductive. Some honeymoon guests reportedly spend their entire stay in their luxurious rooms, which come complete with spa baths, retractable roofs for stargazing, two decks and four-poster beds draped in mosquito nets. Dining beneath the resort’s 400-year-old Banyan tree overlooking the vivid aquamarine sea, however, is not to be missed.

Guests that do venture out are rewarded with waterfall hikes and village

visits to nearby Beqa Island, Pure Fiji spa treatments, kayaking, fish feeding and some of Fiji’s best snorkelling on Davui’s incredible fringing reef.

+ Don’t miss

Play castaway with your own romantic private island experience. With 333 islands (many of them uninhabited) scattered across roughly 1.3 million square kilometres of the South Pacific, there’s an island or patch of sand with your name on it.

Resorts across the archipelago –including Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort, Como Laucala Island, Vomo, Castaway Island, Six Senses Malolo and Yasawa Island Resort and Spa to name but a few – will pack you off with a decadent picnic, a bottle of wine, and snorkelling or kayak gear and deliver you to your own deserted island. What could be more romantic?

Tuck into a lunch of say lobster salad, sushi and tropical fruit, accompanied by Champagne or your choice of wine. When you’re done, simply use a two-way radio to let your “rescuers” know you’re ready to face the world again.

A royal romance

Clockwise,

from above left: Sunset Plunge Pool Villa, Royal Davui; pool cocktails at Six Senses Malolo Island; Banyan Bar & Restaurant, Royal Davui; Likuliku Lagoon Resort; villa at Royal Davui.

“Within moments of arriving, you’ll be toasting each other with cocktails, the scent of frangipani in the air.”

ADVENTURERS

Beyond Fiji’s indolent resorts lies a string of little explored islands, atolls, rivers and rugged mountain interiors. From the little-known islands of the north to the country’s far south – home to the world’s third-biggest barrier reef – the ‘real Fiji’ awaits offering adventure in spades.

+ Must-do

Experience shark dives in Beqa Lagoon, surf the legendary Frigates Pass, zipline through a rainforest canopy, experience white-water rafting or join an off-road cave safari where you wade by lantern light through Fiji’s largest cave system.

Snaking pristinely through volcanic gorges and shielded by lush rainforest, the Navua River offers challenging rapids (class II and III) and crashing waterfalls. Don helmet and pilot your paddle to brave the rushing whitewater, which is hemmed by forest including huge banyan trees and gigantic green palms. Be serenaded by the chorus of the rainforest during sedate pauses where the river carries you along.

Surfing in Fiji continues to gain momentum with the opening up of formerly inaccessible world-class breaks including Cloudbreak – a perfect left-hander – and the left reef break of Restaurants in the Mamanuca archipelago, formerly accessed exclusively by Tavarua Island Resort guests. An easy paddle from Fiji Hideaway Resort and Spa offers an excellent year-round right break suitable for both beginners and more experienced surfers, while Plantation and Castaway islands offer day trips to Wilkes Passage, Desperations, mini Cloudbreak, Namotu Left, Restaurants and Swimming Pools. Meanwhile, the offshore Frigates Pass, also known as the Fiji Pipeline, is a heavy left-hand barrel in Beqa Lagoon accessible to surfers staying on the Coral Coast.

Also in Beqa Lagoon, experience world-class diving in a pristine marine reserve including a renowned shark dive where you can see up to eight species of sharks.

Alternatively, challenge yourself to cross-island hikes that include swims in secret waterfalls or get down and dirty at the Sabeto Hot Spring and Mudpool.

Visitors to these geothermal hot springs just outside Nadi are covered head to toe in rich volcanic mud. After drying off in the sun, you enter a muddy pool where most of the rich brown mud is washed away, leaving your skin feeling silky-soft. Afterwards, bathe in a clear spring that is the temperature of bath water.

+ Stay

The award-winning Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort sprawls across 16 hectares with meandering paths, tall swaying palm trees, a vast lagoon swimming pool, a hilltop spa and five adults-only zones. Located on the Coral Coast, it’s within easy reach of Pacific Harbour, aka the Adventure Capital of Fiji. On offer are contemporary, air-conditioned rooms and thatched bures with vaulted masi bark-lined ceilings and luxurious double hammocks. A talai (butler) service is offered for guests staying in the 47 bures and deluxe ocean-view rooms, while the resort runs an excellent community outreach program.

Nanuku Resort and Spa is an all-villa, boutique resort with a private clubhouse that melds contemporary luxury with traditional Fijian design. Set in lush tropical gardens on the pristine waters of Beqa Lagoon, personal butlers, private nannies and tailored experiences – ranging from epicurean dining and food and medicine walks through to picnics on your own private island – are part and parcel of the Nanuku experience. Pacific Harbour lies conveniently at Nanuku’s doorstep for adventures beyond the resort.

Just off the island of Taveuni, adultsonly island getaway Matangi Private Island Resort offers 12 chic rooms and jungle treehouses, a secret cove known as Horseshoe Bay listed in 1,000 Places to Visit Before you Die, an inviting pool and a dreamy overwater spa. Go kayaking, paddle boarding or snorkelling in the pristine and secret bay. The resort is close to Fiji’s renowned dive site, the Somosomo Strait, famous for its coral Great White Wall and the Purple Wall, while on the nearby lush island of Taveuni, aptly named the “Garden Island”, you can slide down a gushing waterfall and stand on the spot where, had it not been diverted around Fiji, the International Dateline would have divided the island into separate hemispheres.

+ Don’t miss

Join a fascinating off-road cave safari with Sigatoka River Safari. Participants on this adventurous tour wade through kneedeep water by hurricane lantern through Naihehe Cave, Fiji’s largest cave system. Deep inside the 170-metre cave remains a gruesome reminder of Fiji’s cannibal past – a cannibal oven, a ritual platform and the sacred priest chamber. On Navo Island, accessible from the InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort and Spa, is another cave where women and children used to hide during tribal wars or cyclones. After exploring the cave, head to Natadola (possibly Vitu Levu’s best beach) and take a sunset ride on horses from the local village.

Ready, set, action Anti-clockwise, from main: South Sea Island, Mamanucas; go snorkelling with sharks on a South Sea Cruises’ day cruise; rainforest zipline tour; a Sigatoka River Safari; Beachfront Villa, Nanuku Resort; Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort.

FAMILIES

Get kids off their devices and out exploring Fiji’s string of 333 islands, both on land and underwater. It’s where everyone gets to have a holiday – parents included.

+ Must-do

Fiji’s islands are a dream escape for families. Kids can collect hermit crabs, make friends in the kids’ club, build sandcastles and enjoy old-school fun where days seemingly stretch on forever.

Book an island-hopping cruise where you can swim and snorkel in tropical-fishfilled waters, visit a village and experience a different side of Fiji. You can step ashore on uninhabited Modriki Island, where the Tom Hanks movie Castaway was filmed, on a South Sea Cruises’ day trip aboard the classic schooner Seaspray. You’ll see various locations where the movie was filmed and the 83-foot schooner anchors off Modriki so passengers can go ashore to explore and snorkel.

One of the best things to do as a family is to visit a traditional village. Most hotels and resorts offer this experience. Many of the staff from your hotel or resort actually come from nearby villages. See how the local people live, where Fijian children go to school and learn about local traditions and history. You can usually buy handmade jewellery, wood carvings and other souvenirs, too.

Play Robinson Crusoe on your private island. Many resorts will pack you off with a substantial picnic along with snorkelling and kayak gear and deliver you to your own private atoll. Take a siesta in a hammock or snorkel the shallow reefs. The kids will love having the island, and you, all to themselves.

+ Stay

Many of Fiji’s resorts, ranging from relaxed barefoot properties to luxe five-star digs, offer kids’ clubs and other facilities, which are often complimentary or included in the tariff. Activities include: coral reef exploration; Fijian arts, crafts and culture; handicrafts such as necklace making, T-shirt printing or basket and coconut-leaf weaving; visits to local villages and a farmers’ market; a myriad of water-based activities; coconut

bowling; crab hunting and storytelling. It’s not uncommon for tears to be shed at the end of the week as nannies say goodbye to their charges.

As you step ashore, your feet sinking into the warm clear waters, you instantly feel at home at magical Castaway Island in the Mamanucas. The resort’s 64 stylish yet simple bures come complete with daybeds and contemporary interiors. The island offers safe, pristine swimming beaches and coral reefs ideal for snorkelling. Children adore Castaway’s kids’ club, which although little more than a room, offers heaps of fun, outdoor activities including sandcastle building, craft projects, treasure hunts and more. There are family and adults-only pools, the Sundowner Bar and award-winning feet-in-the-sand dining, a dive centre, a coral-conservation program and warm Fijian hospitality.

Fiji’s largest resort, set on 44 hectares of a private island, with a sandy beach on one side and a blue lagoon on the other, is popular with Australians for good reason. The Shangri-La Yanuca Island, Fiji offers 442 comfortable rooms while facilities, including the renowned Little Chief’s Club, and a stay-and-eat-free program (for two children under 12 years old, per room) make it terrific value. There are loads of fun activities such as golf, lawn bowls, banana-boat rides, scuba diving, crab races and snorkelling in a fish-filled lagoon. Parents love the swish all-service spa.

Be careful before booking a family holiday at Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort. Full-time nannies, candlelit dinners, the South Pacific’s most-awarded kids’ club and snorkelling or diving in worldrenowned reefs deliver a family holiday that’s forever hard to top. Parents can hand children over to specially trained nannies and staff, relax by the pool, have kids tucked in at night and stroll hand-inhand along the sand to a romantic candlelit dinner safe in the knowledge they are in the best of hands. It’s the only resort in Fiji that employs a full-time,

onsite marine biologist, Johnny Singh. Singh enthusiastically imparts Cousteau’s passion for the ocean to adults and small guests through the excellent Ambassadors of the Environment program (involving a Bula passport system), snorkelling expeditions (including night snorkels), glass-bottomboat rides and educational presentations. It’s where lifelong friends and memories are made, hence why so many families return again and again to this magical eco-friendly resort.

+ Don’t miss Channel your inner Tom Sawyer and try bilibili (bamboo) rafting as a crooning Fijian poles you downstream – the South Pacific version of a Venetian gondola. A Navua River Boat Adventure tour includes the chance to ride a traditional bilibili, while the annual bilibili race is a fun and colourful spectacle not to be missed. Alternatively, let the kids build their own bilibili raft. Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort’s terrific teens’ program sees adventurous kids build and launch their own bilibili raft.

Keeping kids busy

Clockwise, from top left: Raft building at Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort; a Fijian holiday is about sun, sand, beautiful clear waters and making friends; Castaway Island Resort is a family favourite; Shangri-La Yanuca Island is also popular; learning to play local music.

“Kids can collect hermit crabs, make friends in the kids’ club, build sandcastles and enjoy old-school fun where days seemingly stretch on forever.”

“Play a round of golf on an 18-hole championship course in the middle of the Koro Sea or watch stress float away from a treetop yoga pavilion.”

LUXURY

A new kind of luxury is being served across Fiji’s 333 islands with experiential travel, cultural connection and giving back firmly on the menu.

+ Must-do

Practise yoga in a hilltop pavilion, stay on your own private island, explore the galaxy or play a round of golf on a championship course plonked in the middle of the cerulean Koro Sea.

The South Pacific is one of the world’s best stargazing destinations and at Nanuku Resort Fiji space-themed programming includes a Celestial Concierge who leads guests through stargazing experiences using a NASAstandard Dobsonian telescope, and shares mythical Fijian folklore on the influence of the moon. You can also book an exclusive boat journey to a nearby private island to put your newfound knowledge of traditional night-sky navigation practices into use.

Play a round of golf on an 18-hole championship course in the middle of the Koro Sea at the mind-blowing Como Laucala, watch stress float away from a treetop yoga pavilion at Six Senses Fiji or dive Namana Reserve, one of the world’s top 10 dive spots, from Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort.

Kiss stress goodbye at Namale on Vanua Levu where its Valeni Sasauni Spa Sanctuary overlooks a magnificent tidal blowhole, while Qamea Resort’s awardwinning spa is found deep in the jungle of a small island off Taveuni.

+ Stay

Along with beachfront and hillside villas, Vomo Island Fiji’s new beachfront residence is the epitome of secluded luxury. Taleitaki, meaning “precious place”, is a showstopping four-bedroom holiday house where natural timbers, a 14-metre infinity pool and vistas to the Yasawa Islands offer the ultimate in luxe tropical living. It has its own private pool, a multitude of al fresco entertainment spaces, ocean vistas and direct beach access. Local Fijians can take guests fishing or trekking to the top of Mount Vomo for sweeping vistas.

Likuliku Lagoon Resort is an adults-only retreat with beachfront, garden and

overwater bures surrounded by a marine sanctuary. The beauty about the property is that architects designed the resort to pay homage to Fijian cultural values and traditional designs. Guests can snorkel, dive and surf, and there are great food and beverage options.

Kokomo Private Island Resort on the Great Astrolabe Reef offers authentic, barefoot luxury a significant step up from the “flop-and-drop” experience. Guests are afforded a window into this unique part of the world by surfing at reef breaks, fishing with the locals, waterfall walks and village visits. The resort offers a beachside grill, sunken cocktail bar, private wine cellar and 21 villas each with a private pool and alfresco shower just steps from the sand.

On a stunning crescent-shaped bay overlooking the “Blue Lagoon” and the Yasawas, which is arguably the most picturesque setting of any of Fiji’s resorts, the five-star, all-inclusive Turtle Island has 14 spacious bures, 12 private beaches, personal “bure mamas”, top-shelf liquors, wines and champagnes, and world-class fishing, diving and snorkelling. Past guests include Brooke Shields (Brooke’s Bure) and the former Fijian president (Ratu Mara Bure).

Vonu Point is Turtle’s premium bure – a traditional, two-room thatched cottage crafted by Fijian artisans, which enjoys total privacy and panoramic views of the lagoon and neighbouring Yasawa Islands. Enjoy meals in the shade of a sprawling baka tree or opt for private dinners under the stars or on a romantic, floating pontoon.

Dolphin Island, off the north of Fiji’s main island Vitu Levu, allows guests to play Robinson Crusoe – albeit in five-star

luxury. Owned by Dutch multimillionaire Alex van Heeren, who made his money from shipping and banking, the lush five-hectare private atoll is part of The Huka Retreats group, which also owns Huka Lodge in New Zealand and Grande Provence in South Africa. The private island resort offers Virginia Fisherdesigned interiors, an infinity pool, personal staff along with private tours and aquatic adventures.

The northeastern island of Qamea is predominantly covered in dense jungle, and is home to the luxury couples’ resort Qamea (reopening at the end of 2022). Just offshore Piano Reef is regarded as one of the world’s top 10 resort snorkel reefs and has beautiful hard corals.

+ Don’t miss

In the warm, pristine waters of Savusavu Bay on Vanua Levu, J Hunter Pearls is the country’s largest producer of stunning black pearls, which have inspired a cult following in Europe with their radical, naturally bred colours. Join a pearl farm tour, which includes a glass-bottom-boat ride, to learn about the company’s pearl-farming process. Afterwards, shop the striking collection of rainbow-coloured pearls in the J Hunter showroom. While the collection is sold exclusively to Gellner, a prestigious European pearl company, J Hunter Pearls also sells its own jewellery line from its showroom.

Luxe holidays to covet

Clockwise, from below: Cabana at Vomo in the Mamanucas; the luxury of Como Laucala’s beach bar, golf course and villa lounge; Turtle Island Resort; overwater bures at Likuliku Lagoon Resort in the Mamanucas.

ECO-FRIENDLY

Fijian resorts lead the South Pacific’s efforts to embrace sustainability, from replacing traditional energy forms, sourcing local, organic produce and preserving customs through to the conservation of the coral reefs that make Fiji’s islands so special in the first place.

+ Must-do

Build a fish house at the Shangri-La Yanuca Island’s marine centre. To date, guests have built hundreds of fish houses which are then placed in the lagoon creating a mini reef system, which is home to fish, clams and baby cowrie shells. You can even track the progress of your fish house using GPS co-ordinates. Wrench yourself away from the pool and wheelbarrow concrete, lay building blocks, paint, sandpaper or spend time in the classroom as part of Outrigger Fiji Beach Resort’s community project at Conua District School. The Coral Coast resort also has one of the South Pacific’s best coral gardening programs. Young corals are grown in a protected nursery till adulthood, then replanted.

Fiji Airways meanwhile has launched the new Our Ocean, Our Life Mangrove and Turtle Eco Tour, which allows travellers to plant mangrove trees and explore a turtle-breeding sanctuary. A portion of the proceeds goes to local village partners.

+ Stay

Long before sustainability and carbonneutral were a part of our vocabulary, the five-star Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort was underpinned by a steadfast commitment to the environment.

Adjoining a protected marine reserve on Fiji’s second-largest island, Vanua Levu, conservation and cultural connection are key to the eco-resort’s ethos. It employs a full-time marine biologist, runs projects aimed at reef protection and giant-clam breeding, utilises flow-through ventilation rather than air-conditioning in its 25 bures, and used sustainable timber and traditional thatching in the bures’ construction. The restaurant serves produce grown in the organic garden, eco-friendly Pure Fiji amenities are used in the rooms and in the spa, while water is recycled.

South of Viti Levu, the five-star, adults-only Royal Davui Island Resort is more than a luxurious and romantic place to stay. It was the first Fijian resort to ban all single-serve plastic items. Locally grown produce is on the menu, while its treatment plant converts wastewater into usable garden water.

Vomo Island resort in the Mamanucas used border closures to build its own freshwater bottling plant and to install a cleaning system in its kitchens that turns desalinated water into cleaning products using saltwater and electricity, eradicating harsh chemicals.

Matanivusi Beach Eco Resort, on Viti Levu’s southern coast, created such an innovative waste-management and low-plastic environment that it became the world’s first registered surf ecoretreat. The resort collects all rainwater, separates all waste into compost, recyclables and waste and crushes all non-returnable bottles to use in concrete mix. All wastewater is treated so that it can then be used as a natural fertiliser for the gardens.

Luxury adults-only resort Likuliku not only boasts Fiji’s first and only overwater bungalows but strong eco credentials too. Along with eliminating single-use plastics, it has worked tirelessly to save one of the world’s rarest creatures from extinction – the Fiji crested iguana. The resort implemented programs to eradicate non-native animals and restore habitat, and also started a captivebreeding program – there are now more than 80 of the critically endangered iguana species on the island.

On Malolo Island, also in the Mamanuca Group, the game-changing Six Senses Fiji is the country’s first resort to be entirely solar powered. Offering 26 spacious and sumptuous pool villas and 60 residential villas, the resort collects rainwater, offers low energy and chemical pool filtration, has worm-based septic tanks and has its own reverse-osmosis plant and water refinery producing drinking water – meaning no plastic bottles. Local craftsmen used fallen trees for both furniture and resort construction. Cuisine is locally inspired and sustainably sourced; wine is sulphite-free and organic.

Several Fijian resorts have upped the ante when it comes to cultural sustainability whereby local villages make an income out of sharing traditional customs with tourists. Maqai Beach Eco Resort on Qamea Island off Taveuni has given 10-per-cent ownership of the resort to a neighbouring village to ensure directors and managers work with local chiefs on all key decisions. Leleuvia Island Resort near Suva meanwhile works with six villages on their island to train young locals to bring back knowledge of Fijian-canoe sailing and navigation skills. The resort assisted in providing traditional camakau sailing canoes to the villages, part of its efforts to revive Fiji’s sustainable sea transport culture.

+ Don’t miss

Meet a rare Fijian iguana at the 28-hectare Kula Wild Adventure Park which can be explored via elevated boardwalks rising from the valley floor to the rainforest canopy. Fiji’s centre for the captive breeding of endangered species, the park breeds two types of Fijian iguanas, colourful native birds and turtles. Be met with wide smiles and waving locals as you traverse untouched tracts along Fiji’s Coral Coast on a modified e-bike mounted on a 19th-century sugar-cane railway. Ecotrax Fiji takes tourists on a velocipede ride to the deserted Vunabua Beach where you can take a swim and sip on a coconut as a reward for all that pedalling.

Nature’s bounty Clockwise, from above left: On Fiji Airways’ new eco tour, visit a turtle sanctuary and plant mangroves (above); the Ecotrax tour; meet native wildlife at Kula Wild Adventure Park; marine biologist Johnny Singh at Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort.

“Be met with wide smiles and waving locals as you traverse untouched tracts on a modified e-bike mounted on a 19th-century sugar-cane railway.”

Island-hopping

Clockwise, from below: Blue Lagoon Cruises’ Fiji Princess; cultural show; Sawa-i-Lau caves of Blue Lagoon movie fame; underwater magic; exploring with Blue Lagoon Cruises; the famed Fijian hospitality.

CRUISERS

Explore deserted beaches, visit local villages, share in a lovo feast (a meal cooked in an earth oven) beneath the stars and island hop your way through Fiji’s magical islands.

Cruising is back in Fiji with vessels embarking from Australian and international ports or setting sail from Fiji’s palm-fringed shores. Your shoulders cannot help but drop as you slip into the rhythm of life on board.

Many parts of Fiji are not easily accessible unless by boat. A cruise enables you to explore this string of island gems where peaks, waterfalls and jewel-coloured reefs await. You may find yourself dropping anchor for a sandbar picnic lunch, snorkelling in a marine sanctuary or kicking back on the deck (or hammock) with a good book.

+ Must-do

Enjoy an aromatic back massage aboard Blue Lagoon Cruises’ MV Fiji Princess Guests can experience a range of spa treatments using traditional Fijian methods and products.

Alternatively, book an onshore massage at Blue Lagoon Cruises’ private beach on Nanuya Lailai where spa therapists give massages in a rustic hut beneath coconut palms as waves lap the shore.

Snorkel Fiji’s crystal clear waters every day of your cruise – jumping overboard from your ship’s tender or straight from the shore. Snorkellers can expect to see manta rays, stingrays, turtles, whitetip and blacktip reef sharks, and even the Fijian Nemo (a clownfish with only one white stripe). World-class diving is also on offer from cruise ships exploring what Jacques Cousteau dubbed the “soft coral capital of the world”.

+ Cruise options

Cruise through the Mamanucas and Yasawas – a cluster of stunning islands to Fiji’s far west – on a multi-day cruise with Blue Lagoon Cruises or with Captain Cook Cruises. Their onboard menu and the spectacular vistas change daily.

Blue Lagoon’s Fiji Princess shows travellers an authentic side to Fiji – far from the resort-rich areas of Denarau and the Coral Coast. It takes passengers to

small villages, local schools and even to the South Pacific’s most remote tea shop. And being a smaller boutique cruise ship means the Fiji Princess can get right up close to islands and lovely stretches of white sand beach where yours may be the only footprints. It even famously ties up to a coconut tree at its anchorage just off its private beach on Nanuya Lailai (Blue Lagoon).

Captain Cook Cruises Fiji meanwhile offers voyages of between three and 11 nights, including the week-long Remote North Discovery expedition aboard MV Reef Endeavour where you can discover islands and reefs rarely visited by tourists. Highlights include a song and dance performance by children from a local village and a visit to the World Heritage site of Levuka on the island of Ovalau.

The 11-day Fiji Islands cruise also takes passengers beyond the main tourist areas to explore small villages, hidden coves, brightly coloured coral reefs and islands not normally accessible unless by boat.

Visit the uninhabited Modriki Island where the Tom Hanks blockbuster Castaway was filmed before snorkelling the languid water of the Sacred Islands. Experience a traditional lovo feast, get up close with nesting turtles, listen to the harmonious strains of a village choir and explore the caves, reefs and lagoons of Qilaqila, renowned for its mushroomshaped islands.

P&O’s Pacific Explorer was the first vessel to return to Fiji this year, after more than a 2.5-year hiatus during border closures, with its 12-night Fiji Adventure. With the resumption of cruise ships, Carnival Australia and its sister liners have confirmed 34 port calls to Fiji between now and June 30, 2023.

Other options include sailing aboard Regent Seven Seas which stops on Fiji’s shores as part of two cruises: a 25-night Secret Isles and The Great Reef Papeete to Bali cruise and an 18-night Sydney to Papeete Secret Isles of the South Pacific.

Some of Ponant’s superlative itineraries include Fiji where highlights include diving (or learning to dive) Fiji’s incredible underwater world.

South Pacific specialist Paul Gauguin Cruises meanwhile offers sailings between Bali and Fiji or more in-depth cultural experience on 12- to 15-night cruises taking in Fiji, Tonga, the Cook Islands and the Society Islands.

+ Don’t miss

Swim in the clear green water of the majestic Sawa-i-Lau caves as sunlight streams into the open-air chamber. Famously these caves are featured in the 1980 movie Blue Lagoon, where a young Brooke Shields is filmed swimming and bathing. Passengers aboard both Blue Lagoon and Captain Cook Yasawa Islands cruises can explore these magnificent limestone caves. You can even take a short swim through an underwater passage into the second of these caves, marvelling at a side of Fiji most rarely see. CT

To research your next trip to Fiji, visit Tourism Fiji at fiji.travel

GONE BUSH

Author Kathy Lette swaps book clubs for the bush and goes in search of the big five.

or women, life is in two acts – the trick is surviving the interval. But once you get through menopause (when you sweat more than Liz Truss doing sudoku) and your progeny fly the nest (out the door by 24, kiddos!) we hard-working girls can put ourselves first for the first time in our lives. All we need to do now is to go forth and be fabulous. Our aim is simple – to build a life we don’t need a vacation from – as long as it includes some great vacations. I mean, if not now, when? A Zimmer frame would somewhat cramp a gal’s style on a scuba in Cuba.

And older women are adventurous. A recent survey by the JourneyWoman travel website discovered that last year 77 per cent of all bookings for companies specialising in female travel came from solo travellers aged 55-plus – proving that exploration is not just for the likes of Bear Grylls and Benedict Allen. Or just the young. The luxury solo travel market has also had the biggest shift in the 65-plus category, particularly with female travellers craving adventure before dementia kicks in.

Of course, psychologists maintain that the most effective way to stave off cognitive decline is to get out of your comfort zone and tackle new challenges . . . which is why I found myself hiking through Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Conservation Area into an extinct volcano with a rifle-toting ranger.

Clambering up through the acacia forest that blankets the rim of the Olmoti Crater, my guide explained that the aim of almost every safari is to see the “big five” – elephants, lions, buffalo, leopards and rhinos. If I’d been in my natural habitat – at book club – I’d be encountering the literary big five: Salman

On watch

Wild elephants in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

“I FOUND MYSELF HIKING THROUGH TANZANIA’S NGORONGORO CONSERVATION AREA INTO AN EXTINCT VOLCANO WITH A RIFLE-TOTING RANGER. ”

Rushdie, Margaret Atwood, Kazuo Ishiguro, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, Arundhati Roy . . . But no. I was traipsing through a carnivore-encrusted jungle; my only weapon a sharp tongue.

On tour in Tanzania

Clockwise, from above right: Masai warriors dancing; Tarangire National Park’s wildlife includes giraffes, cheetahs and monkeys.

I was so busy making cutting remarks to a dive-bombing insect that I didn’t spot the spots. The ranger put a “shhh” finger to his lips, then pointed at a polka-dot pelt shimmering in the sun-dappled shadows just feet from the path. Unsurprisingly, my life as a bookworm has left me curiously illequipped to deal with a leopard in the wild. Frozen to the spot, all I could do was gawp while my heart started a frantic drum solo. The face I turned to the park ranger had the look of a woman whose life-support system has just been turned off. But he nonchalantly tapped the barrel of his gun and the leopard, casting a glance our way, slunk insouciantly into the shadows. “You see? Quite friendly,” my guide smiled.

“Really? I suspect leopards have too many claws for a supposedly friendly nature,” I retorted, cattily. My instinct was to climb the nearest tree, but the forest suddenly opened onto the breathtaking vista of the crater. Emerald green pastures, gurgling streams, the musical chiming of cowbells – for a disorientating moment I thought I was in Austria. But the tall, thin men wandering across the crater floor below were not lonely goatherds, but spear-wielding Masai, grazing their cattle as they have done for centuries.

“A Jeep safari is like watching a film,” my ranger enthused, clocking my rapturous expression, “but a walking safari is like reading the book.”

My next “bookish” experience was in Tarangire National Park, 200 kilometres south of Ngorongoro. When my guide suggested a walk by the lake – a lake where lions lie in wait to pounce upon thirsty prey – to say I felt a tad nervous was the biggest understatement since Nadhim Zahawi said “I may have made a careless tax error”. But remembering my mantra to push myself out of my comfort zone, I strapped on my hiking boots.

“Anything I should know before setting out?” I asked, trying not to squeal like a lost kitten. “Yes,” the ranger said, grinning and loading bullets into his rifle. “If an elephant charges you – pray.”

As I crabbed along, sandwiched between two armed guides, my head swivelled from side to side, scouring the bushes for irascible pachyderms. Circling vultures swooped ominously overhead. I was so far out of my comfort zone it wouldn’t even register on my psychological sat-nav. I should have been sorting my spice rack alphabetically or splashing energetically to a thundering disco rendition of Girls Just Want To Have Fun in my water aerobics

TANZANIA

3 safaris with Abercrombie & Kent

Visions of Kenya

Discover Kenya’s most iconic sights on this fabulous safari that whisks you from the flamingo-flecked soda lakes of the Great Rift Valley to the enormous Loisaba wildlife conservancy and the world-famous Masai Mara. The journey concludes with two full days of rest and relaxation by the glittering waters of the Indian Ocean. Throughout the game-viewing portion of this trip, stay in atmospheric tented camps that capture the adventure and romance of a bygone era. Be guided by the best in the business, from local Samburu trackers to Maasai warriors. Your final home away from home is an idyllic five-star resort at the heart of a marine sanctuary.

Details: 13 days, all-inclusive from $19,210 per person.

Best of Zambia

Marvel at the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, before embarking on an outstanding wilderness experience in the South Luangwa, home of the ‘walking safari’. The area is widely considered one of Africa’s finest and most unspoiled wildlife reserves and it makes for an exciting contrast with the Lower Zambezi where you’ll see game from safari vehicles, get up close on foot and float gently past herds that frequent the river and its banks. Unspoilt natural beauty and abundant game make these two areas unparalleled for a wildlife adventure.

Details: 11 days, all-inclusive from $17,450 pp.

Tanzania Under Canvas

Home to Africa’s largest game reserve, highest mountain, deepest lake and most extraordinary wildlife spectacle, Tanzania is a captivating African microcosm and ripe for adventure. It is a country of astounding contrasts offering exceptional, unforgettable experiences around every sun-drenched corner, teeming with extraordinary

wildlife, high peaks, ancient craters, great lakes and a rich tribal culture. Gaze over the endless plains of the Serengeti ecosystem, where the annual wildebeest migration plays out, and clamber through the primate-rich forest of the Mahale Mountains. Descend into the vast Ngorongoro Crater, its own captivating wildlife arena, and soak up the Arab influences on exotic Zanzibar. Discover the lesser-known swathes of the Selous Game Reserve and scale the icy summit of Kilimanjaro.

Details: 9 days, all-inclusive from $12,740 pp.

Tread lightly Clockwise, from right: Hiking into Olmoti Crater; wildlife in the Ngorongoro Crater; jeep safari in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

class. I even found myself thinking fondly of my oven, which needed cleaning.

But as we moved silently through the grass, the warm wind made the dangling branches of the ancient, sun-sequinned baobab trees dance. Giraffes periscoped their long necks up above the trees at our approach and zebras and gazelles gambolled gaily. The majesty of the sweeping savannah had just begun to work its relaxing magic when we rounded a thicket and walked smack-bang into a big bull elephant. The tusked mammoth stared at us with haughty disdain. We were close enough to see the heat rippling off its thick hide and feel the breeze from his beating ears.

“If he charges,” the ranger whispered, “just clap your hands and shout to look bigger.” I shot him a narrow-eyed, sarcastic, sideways look. This advice sounded about as effective as standing up to Vladimir Putin with a pavlova. When the elephant then trumpeted in my direction, I didn’t want to clap my hands. I wanted to make like an ostrich and bury my quivering head in the sand. Following the ranger’s example, I slowly retreated – right back into my comfort zone. Who cared about increasing cognitive ability? For my next safari, I opted to hang up my hiking books and ride in a nice safe Jeep.

More than a third of Tanzania is conserved as national parks and game reserves, meaning much of the country is one big smorgasbord of lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas, jackals and other wild and wondrous creatures hunting, munching and lunching on each other. It gives a new definition to “fast food”.

After an enthralling morning driving past the entire cast of The Lion King, I was just getting a bit peckish when I glanced up at a tree and realised that I was lunch. There are many reasons for sudden religious conversion – the chief being staring into the hazel eyes of a hungry lioness, lounging on a branch a few feet from your head. Turns out a Jeep safari isn’t a safer option. It just makes you into meals on wheels. The big cat stretched, dropped gracefully to the ground and padded straight past me; clearly a case of professional courtesy. I mean, as a cougar I’m definitely part of the cat family, right?

Even more terrifying than the salivating incisors of various prairie predators were the sleeping arrangements. I am not a camping kinda gal. To me, “camping” is what Alan Carr does on his chat show. In Tanzania, the camps I stayed in were unfenced. With nothing but a flimsy bit of netting between me and the king of the jungle, how could I possibly not feel tense about tents? When a spear-wielding Masai warrior arrived, you know, just to escort me to dinner, to ensure that I didn’t become an animal entrée en route, I glanced at his weapon with scepticism. But I needn’t have worried – the Masai have an encyclopaedic knowledge of the bush.

The safari tents of the camps proved chic and cosily comfy. Lying snug in a soft bed, well guarded by warriors, listening to the deep throaty roar of prowling lions felt exhilarating. I didn’t miss those luxurious hotels either. After all, if I wanted five stars, all I had to do was look up.

So, after six days of safari adventure, what did I discover? I learnt that a cackle of hyenas running towards you is no laughing matter. I learnt that when the guide points out there’s a python right next to you it’s not a sudden sighting of Eric Idle. I learnt that cape buffalos have some serious anger management issues and that elephants eat for 22 hours a day. I learnt that, in the awe-inspiring natural wonder that is the UNESCO-listed Ngorongoro Crater, endangered black rhinos are not the reclusive, elusive Greta Garbos of the animal world; I encountered five in one day. I learnt that I’m braver and more intrepid than I thought. But mostly I learnt how lucky I am to be having a sensational second act.

This fact was driven home to me at Ngorongoro’s Doffa Bike Shop where some of the local women are also finding a new lease on life, thanks to tour operator Abercrombie & Kent’s philanthropy project. The bike shop trains single mums living with HIV to be mechanics. The thousands of donated bicycles they fix go on to mobilise whole communities, helping nurses to see more patients, kids get to school and women go to market. Of the 46 projects in 24 countries that Abercrombie & Kent runs to support local communities, this is their most successful to date, with 15,214 bikes now empowering women across Africa. I joined five of the female mechanics for a ride around the town. For me, this was a cooler bikie gang than the Hells Angels.

Taking on new challenges in Tanzania definitely got my synapses zinging and put off the need for a seniors sat-nav (the kind of device that gets you to your destination . . . then reminds you why the hell you wanted to go there in the first place). Not only did I get up close to the big five, I also got to drink in spectacular vistas, befriend the most charismatic guides, learn to paddle a canoe and digitally detox every night by watching bush TV (the open fire). Palate-pleasing cuisine and elegant safari tents meant that my adventures took me out of my comfort zone, but comfortably.

Best of all, my guides kept stressing the importance of staying hydrated in the heat, but neglected to specify which liquids. I didn’t want to disobey orders, so chose a deliciously buttery South African chardonnay. Bottoms ups, girls! CT

TANZANIA

“THERE ARE MANY REASONS FOR SUDDEN RELIGIOUS CONVERSION –THE CHIEF BEING STARING INTO THE HAZEL EYES OF A HUNGRY LIONESS, LOUNGING ON A BRANCH A FEW FEET FROM YOUR HEAD. ”

Silence is golden

Crowning glory

The Aman hotel has taken over the Crown Building on 5th Avenue, Midtown Manhattan (left). A Corner Suite living room (below).

the first thing you notice when entering the most extraordinary – and most expensive – new hotel in New York is the noise; or, rather, the lack thereof.

One minute you’re on frenetic 5th Avenue, strolling past the iconic glass Apple store and the bright lights of Bergdorf Goodman, deep in the thump and hustle of Midtown Manhattan; the next you’ve been spirited up to an airy 14thfloor atrium, where sunlight floods through grand, soundproofed French doors, a fireplace flickers at the centre of a lofty, marble-colonnaded lounge and you can almost touch the tranquillity – and with suites currently starting at US$3,000 a night, you’d want to.

We’re just two blocks south of Central Park, in what is arguably the busiest corner of the world’s busiest city, and yet there is absolutely no evidence of the human carnival streaming along those streets and pavements a few storeys below. No humming engines, no honking horns; not even a distant screaming siren.

Luxury comes in many forms. There’s the luxury of opulence, for example, or the luxury of excess. But here at the longawaited, much-hyped Aman New York, that US$3,000-plus buys you the luxury of serenity and space – both at a premium in this city.

The Aman brand – beloved of celebrities from Leonardo DiCaprio to the Kardashians – is better known for its remote, ultra-luxe tropical resorts, such as Amanpuri, on the island of Phuket, or Amanpulo, on a private atoll in the Philippines. Aman New York – which the company’s website archly describes as its “newest island destination” – is its first urban hotel in the US,

New York’s most expensive new hotel gives solace to the well-heeled at the Aman New York. But Jonathan Thompson asks: is it worth $4,700 a night?

and only its second in the world, after Tokyo (it doesn’t count Venice, apparently). It’s also a major gamble – one to the tune of a reported US$1.45 billion (AU$2.23 billion), including buying the building and adding residences.

The setting for this ambitious metropolitan sanctuary is the iconic Crown Building: a gold-accented, beaux-arts skyscraper at the corner of 5th Avenue and 57th Street, right on the edge of Billionaires’ Row. And the man chosen to marry Manhattan’s pandemonium with the quietude of Aman is the high-end hotel designer Jean-Michel Gathy, the virtuoso behind some of the world’s most impressive properties, including the St Regis Lhasa in Tibet and the Setai Miami Beach.

“Blending the fast-moving life and energy of New York with the Aman DNA requires certain tricks,” the Malaysianbased architect tells me. “One of the best ways is acoustics. Whatever element was at our disposal – types of windows, frames, panelling and layering – we used it all.”

It seems to have worked. From one of the soaring windows in my tenth-floor room (ceilings throughout the hotel are 11 feet, or 3.35 metres, high, a rarity for New York), Midtown resembles a silent movie (albeit one sponsored by Louis Vuitton and Chanel, with a cameo from Trump Tower). The soundproofing and the cloud-like bed behind me are likely to give the lie to the “City That Never Sleeps” moniker.

From here Central Park is just a few seconds’ walk, while the Museum of Modern Art is four blocks south, with the

Luxury throughout Clockwise, from above: The 14th floor Garden Terrace; Arva’s chef de cuisine, Dario Ossola; the 2,300 sq m Aman Spa; a 5th Avenue Junior Suite.

Rockefeller Center and Radio City Music Hall just beyond; continue through the Diamond and Theater districts, and you’re suddenly in Times Square – the Aman’s perch is pretty unbeatable.

If the hotel’s pricey location is ambitious, so too is its layout. All 83 rooms are suites, with the smallest a whopping 775 sq ft (72 sq m) – quite some feat in Manhattan, where 300 sq ft (28 sq m) is the norm; the smallest rooms at nearby ultra-luxe properties the Carlyle and the Ritz-Carlton are 360 sq ft (33 sq m) and 425 sq ft (39 sq m), respectively.

The suites are open-plan and uncluttered, with pivoting Japanese-style shoji screens so that guests can create privacy around the bed or the free-standing tub. In another nod to the company’s Asian roots, each room also includes a giant mural printed on rice paper and inspired by Pine Trees, a masterpiece by the 16th-century painter Hasegawa Tohaku.

Extreme pampering is at the heart of the Aman group’s ethos (its name means “peace” in Sanskrit), and this new

AMAN NEW YORK

property is no exception; an enormous spa and wellness centre is spread over three floors, centred on a 20-metre indoor pool with glass fireplaces and day beds. Even more impressive, however, are the two spa houses (essentially, spas within a spa) –each has a double treatment room, marble steam room or sauna and private alfresco terrace with plunge pool. These can only be rented by guests or Aman members who want to feel like New York royalty for the day (being actual royalty would help – membership is a cool US$200,000), but they seriously up the ante on the tired spas at neighbouring grandes dames the Mandarin Oriental, the Plaza and the Peninsula.

The food is similarly indulgent, particularly at the Italian restaurant Arva, where dishes are as cucina del raccolto rustic as Aman food ever will be. The menu is light on choice, but standouts include an exquisite tagliatelle with goat’s cheese, morel and chanterelle mushrooms, and an otherworldly beef fillet served with radicchio and Amarone sauce – and it’s surprisingly affordable, with mains from about AU$40. As with Nama, the hotel’s Japanese restaurant, Arva, will at some point open to the public.

The Italian restaurant opens onto the expansive 14th-floor garden terrace, with its dramatic firepits

“I begin to feel as though I am on an island retreat – only a vertical resort, rather than a horizontal one.”

Four more new hotels in New York

/ Moxy Lower East Side

In October 2022, Moxy Hotels, the youthful Marriott brand, opened its Lower East Side branch in a street-corner setting among the old tenement blocks on the Bowery. Between the underground nightclub and rooftop lounge, there’s space in the new-build for a Japanese restaurant and 303 rooms, which pull off an upscale look with neutral colour palettes and semi-industrial fittings. Details: moxy-hotels.marriott. com

/ Hard Rock Hotel

It’s strange that it took until 2022 to open a Hard Rock Hotel in the home of the Velvet Underground, Kiss and the Ramones, but perhaps it was waiting for the perfect venue. Well, here you’re less than 200 metres from the lights of Times Square, on 48th St – NYC’s fondly remembered “Music Row”. The 446 rooms go from smart numbers in navy blue and dark wood to the 36th-floor penthouse Rock Star Suite.

Details: hardrockhotels.com

/ Radio Hotel

It used to be a bold choice to base yourself in Washington Heights, a half-hour subway ride from Midtown but still (just) in Manhattan. The main obstacle – a dearth of hotel options – has now been remedied with this asymmetric Lego-style tower, looking over Highbridge Park to the Harlem River. Community links show in the restaurant’s Dominican cuisine and the colours that echo local shopfronts in its loft-style rooms.

Details: theradiohotel.com

/ Casa Cipriani

To the handful of hotels between Wall Street and Manhattan’s southern tip, you can now add an indulgent eccentricity. The Battery Maritime Building, a colonnaded Beaux Arts landmark from 1909 that’s still a working ferry terminal, hosts on its upper floors a 47-room hotel. With mahogany furnishings and fine Italian linen, even the rooms not facing the harbour feel like the first step on an ocean liner voyage.

Details: casacipriani.com

Cocktail hour

Clockwise from above: The Aman’s Jazz Club; Interior, the welcoming Bar Lounge; the Garden Terrace is open year-round.

that appear to dance on a series of reflective pools. Rooftop patios such as this are bona fide unicorns in Manhattan – it’s certain to be one of the most sought-after spots in town when it finally opens, on a reservation-only basis, to outside guests.

The terrace is itself a triumph of architecture, with a retractable glass roof ready to combat the vicissitudes of New York winters, while ingenious bronze lattice walls mean that diners and drinkers may gaze out towards Central Park, but those in neighbouring skyscrapers cannot see in.

Perhaps the best bit hides beneath the Crown, though. In its basement, the hotel’s slick, Prohibition-style Jazz Club – part-recording studio, part-concert venue – pays testament to Aman’s deep pockets and still-deeper ambition. During my visit, I’m treated to a show by the singer and trumpeter Brian Newman, Lady Gaga’s charismatic band leader and frequent collaborator, who will be a regular performer here.

“This is a venue built by musicians for musicians, and the sound is incredible,” Newman says afterwards over a cocktail. “You have the attributes of a grand venue like Radio City Music Hall or Jazz at Lincoln Center, but in an incredibly intimate space. It’s the best nightspot that’s opened in the city in a long time – a genuine game-changer.” The club will be open to the public, with reservations only but no cover charge.

Back among that lofty garden terrace’s bonsai trees and ornamental pools, with the sun slipping down 5th Avenue far beneath me, I begin to feel as though I am on an island retreat – only a vertical resort, rather than a horizontal one, as Gathy describes it. New York has never felt so tranquil.

And it’s a sought-after feeling in this city, hence the elite price tag. It’s easily the most expensive hotel in New York, but on an even footing with other Aman properties such as Amangiri, in the remote Utah desert. It was in 1968 that Joan Didion described New York as “a city only for the very rich and the very poor”, but that still stands today.

At more than twice the average monthly mortgage payment in the US, the nightly room rate will put this Aman out of reach for most. A ridiculous indulgence? Perhaps. But if an urban hotel such as this was going to turn up anywhere, it was either going to be Billionaire’s Row in New York City or Beverly Hills in Los Angeles – which, it turns out, is exactly what Aman plans next.

Jonathan Thompson was a guest of the Aman New York (amannewyork.com). For ideas on what to do in New York see nycgo.com. CT

AMAN NEW YORK

Don’t try to leave, Argentina

I’m busily packing some last-minute shopping when a note from reception is pushed under my hotel room door. “We are so sorry – but we can’t book a cab to the airport at your appointed time, as Argentina is playing in the World Cup and no driver wants to miss the match. Could you perhaps leave earlier, as we’ve found a driver who can then watch the match at the airport?”

My weekend in Buenos Aires has so far been a joy. And I’m willing to accommodate this nation where huge portraits of football heroes like Maradona – the god of the game – adorn high-rise buildings and where team captain Lionel Messi is a GOAT.

It turns out to be just as well. By the time I arrive at Ezeiza International Airport there is almost no-one to be seen. I am quickly checked in by staff watching their mobile phones, and the buildings are eerily empty.

Suddenly, the departures hall echoes with cheers as a goal is scored. The rest is World Cup history. It really speaks to the passion of this great nation that nothing gets in the way of the game.

I’m in the Argentinian capital en route to a Viking cruise to Antarctica. Latam Airways stops here en route to the southernmost tip of the country, Ushuaia – and I’m glad they do.

I’m staying at the Sofitel Buenos Aires Recoleta – smack-bang in the centre of one of the best districts in the city, within walking distance of great designer shops, a restaurant strip, a Saturday art market and the graveyard where Eva Peron is buried.

The five-star hotel with 175 rooms is a five-minute drive from Museo Nacional De Arte Decorativo and Teatro Colon, the Obelisco and MALBA, the Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires. Across the road is a shopping arcade with a food hall and restaurants that quickly show you what’s on offer – from beautiful ham to fabulous steak (of course!).

Recoleta is a barrio, or neighbourhood, in the north with some of the ritziest real estate, known for Parisian-style townhouses and posh boutiques. Buenos Aires is Argentina’s big, cosmopolitan capital city. Its centre is the Plaza de Mayo, lined with stately 19th-century buildings including Casa Rosada, the iconic, balconied presidential palace. Other major attractions include Teatro Colón, a grand 1908 opera house with nearly 2,500 seats, and the modern MALBA displaying Latin American art.

Over 15 million people live here, and with an area of 200 square kilometres it’s one of the world’s biggest metropolises.

Take a walk in the arts district of La Boca, where if you’re lucky, you’ll witness some street dancing among the sculptures and colourful houses.

We spend one night in the Hilton Buenos Aires, a new property in the newly renovated riverside district of Puerto Madero, just a 10-minute walk

In a whirl of colour Clockwise, from left: Doing the tango outside El Viejo Almacén; MALBA museum, Buenos Aires; the neighbourhood of La Boca.

Argentinians understand the essentials of life: football, tango, food, football and fun. Peter Lynch spends a few days in Buenos Aires.

(At least not during a soccer match!)

from the Women’s Bridge and one kilometre from fine arts museum Coleccion de Arte

Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat.

We walk to some of the local restaurants on the riverbank and take a stroll through the city in the evening to see the sites.

I take a three-hour Red Bus tour of the city. My bus leaves at 3pm, which turns out to be the perfect time, taking in the last of the day and the beginnings of the city at night.

It’s a great way to get your bearings, and worth every cent. I knew exactly which destinations I wanted to revisit.

But our highlight was thanks to the Sofitel. I’m keen to see one of the city’s famous tango clubs – but, of course, I want the experience to be authentic.

They gave me a list of five – but recommended El Viejo Almacén, a restaurant and tango bar in the San Telmo district, about 20 minutes away.

I’m glad they did. There are 179 tango bars

Recoleta sights

Clockwise, from above: Plaza Naciones Unidas; the Sofitel Buenos Aires; the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo.

BUENOS AIRES

We loved

The hotel: The Sofitel Buenos Aires Recoleta is in a great location with rooms starting at $654 a night. See all.accor.com.

The tour: Our Red Bus Tour was US$30 (about AU$43). See grayline.com

The tango show: El Viejo Almacén is a restaurant and tango bar in the San Telmo neighbourhood. Dinner and show cost US$75 (about AU$105). See secretsof buenosaires.com

listed on Tripadvisor alone, so choosing without help is a lottery. But their recommendation turned out to be precisely what I was looking for. And to top it all – it was among the cheapest.

Why did I like it? First, the club picked me up in a coach along with a number of other passengers, including many Argentinians (I’m heartened – if they think the dancing is good, it must be pretty special!).

Second, the sirloin strip steak dinner with dulce de leche dessert (a famed South American concoction made by simmering milk and sugar very slowly so it turns into a caramelised cream) was delicious. It came with generous glasses of Argentinian Malbec.

Third, as we walked across the road to the famous tango house which has been operating for more than half a century, there is a buzz of excitement. I’m given a seat on the second storey overlooking the small stage at 9.30pm.

Soon the club’s quintet of two accordions, a violin, drummer and pianist strike up the familiar tango refrain. And for the next two hours, we are treated to an array of singers – some famed Tango vocalists who draw rousing cheers from the crowd of over 100 – and tango by four young couples whose lithe, supple bodies dressed in cocktail dresses and tuxedoes produced that amazing, alluring magic through solos, set and dress changes.

I was once awarded a certificate for the most promising newcomer at a tango class on Cunard’s Queen Mary – it was a token issued in sympathy for my pathetic, flat-footed attempts to master possibly the sexiest dance steps on Earth.

Tango originated here – so no surprises Argentinians treat it like a religion and are very good at it. Many believe seeing it on the streets is enough – but don’t be fooled. A real tango club is sublimely different and sensationally sensual.

We left the club after midnight, as the young dancers and their musicians, now dressed in jeans and T-shirts, set off for a nightcap.

And now the fourth reason I was happy with my evening: there was our bus, ready to take us back to our hotel.

South America has a pretty grim reputation for street crime. Look up Buenos Aires on the Australian government’s Smartraveller website and you’ll see all the warnings about bag snatches and more.

I’m glad I stayed in a good district – it’s worth the investment. And I didn’t take risks. If you do the same, you’ll be rewarded with a great South American experience. Just don’t try to leave when Argentina is playing football. CT

Carnival in the sky

The case for business class proved strong on this particular journey for Peter Lynch

/ The seat

Once again, my heartfelt thanks to the inventor of the lie-flat seat. Latam’s seats have a mattress-like cover and a duvet, lots of leg room, slippers and a toiletry bag by Thomas Olivos filled with hand cream, a facemask, a toothbrush set and socks. Slippers are provided. There are fast-charging USB ports and a universal 110-volt plug – but no Wi-Fi. The mattress is of a NASA-developed material that regulates temperature, ensures airflow and calms the body’s pressure points during sleep. It works a treat. I sleep like a top.

/ The food

carried most of the latest movies, TV shows, music and games. I would have loved an introduction to South America, but instead, as we were going to Antarctica, I settled in for David Attenborough’s Frozen Planet II

/ The lounges

Latam has partner lounges in Auckland – in this airport, if you’re not in the Air New Zealand lounge, you’re nowhere. Santiago has a showpiece lounge, as befitting Latam’s home city, with great food and plenty of space, showers, work areas, Wi-Fi and power. The Buenos Aires lounge has all you need for a late-night take-off.

We are setting out on a 12,000-kilometre journey to the most southern tip of the world. Our trip to Ushuaia, Argentina, involves four landings, three planes and 18 hours in the air.

It’s a punishing schedule for any airline. But this took place at the height of the lost luggage crisis, cancellations on a whim and airport chaos across the globe.

To say we were concerned is an understatement. Every item of luggage is air-tagged, and I am braced for fruitless hours spent in airport lounges. I am carrying a book as thick as a doorstop to while away the wasted hours.

But none of that happened. Indeed, on the journey back, the Qantas flight from Buenos Aires was cancelled, stranding many of my colleagues, while our Latam Boeing 737 took off on schedule.

More Australians are tackling this trip, which explains why Latam – the airline of Chile – is a favourite of adventure companies.

After all, if you’re travelling to somewhere as exciting as South America, why not get into the grove from the moment the wheels are up and taste the carnival atmosphere?

Latam flies from Sydney via Auckland. It’s an arduous journey

to Ushuaia. Not surprisingly, we chose to fly business class. Here’s what we found:

/ The flight

Latam flies from Sydney via Auckland, Santiago, Buenos Aires and finally on to Ushuaia. LA 800 leaves Sydney at 11.25am and arrives in Auckland at 4.35pm local time – it’s a flight of just over 3 hours. After an almost two-hour layover – we go to a lounge – we’re off at 6.30pm for the nearly 11-hour flight to Santiago, Chile, and then it’s a two-hour hop to Buenos Aires. It’s a trek and keeping you happy is a test for any airline.

We chose to pay for Premium Business – the lure of lounges and lie-flat bed was too much to resist.

/ The plane

You may remember the Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner – they were the fly-by-sire sensation grounded for months after a couple of deadly crashes. Now, they are one of the world’s most popular and the plane, which carries about 300 passengers is modern, airy and pleasant.

We are served slow-cooked beef in red wine sauce and vegetables, cheese and a popular tapioca-style dessert with coconut which pops up several times during the journey. Breakfast is an omelette and tomatoes, with fruit and yogurt. South America has some of the best red wine anywhere and Héctor Vergara, the only master sommelier in Latin America, doesn’t let us down with his selections. I can recommend the Chilean 2017 Syrah.

/ The entertainment

It’s an odd complaint I know – the legroom is a boon but it meant the screen was a long way off. The headphones didn’t seem to offer noise-cancelling, but I always carry my own Sony MDR 1000X – an oldie but a goodie. The flight

/ The service

Our Latam crew are distinctly South American – upbeat, pleasant and helpful. They are attentive at mealtimes and well-versed in how to deal with passengers like me who can’t work the bed. Their uniform is very South America – tight trousers and short jackets. CT

Verdict

This is a particularly arduous fight, and Latam managed it well given that many airlines were making cancellations and losing luggage due to staff shortages. Our journey was uneventful – in a good way – compared to some who travelled the same route. I was very happy to see my battered cases come through the carousel intact and on time. The investment in business class was an excellent one.

Skiing with the super-rich

The ultra-wealthy spare no expense on the slopes, with the latest must-haves including private jets, bullet-proof chalets and skiing butlers,

writes

Gabriella Le Breton

There’s no denying that, for many of us, these are straitened times. But for the super-rich, the urge to run for the snow-capped mountains of the Alps is greater than ever – skiing has never been so in vogue. The luxury winter holiday market is booming. Bookings for ultra-glamorous chalets, with starting prices over €25,000 and rising to €620,000 per week, are flourishing. VistaJet, which offers members access to a fleet of more than 360 aircraft, saw demand for private jet travel from the UK to Austria, France and Switzerland more than double (up 62 per cent) last winter.

A surge in long-term luxury rentals, of a few weeks or more, is also growing apace. “There’s been such an influx of international visitors placing their children in the local private school here that a second one, the ski-in/ski-out Copperfield International School, opened in January 2021. Both are oversubscribed despite annual fees of CHF40,000 (AU$62,600),” says Tom Avery, founder of the specialist operator Ski Verbier Exclusive, which caters to guests looking to temporarily relocate to the snow.

Ski holidays have always appealed to the highest echelons of society, as Rupert Longsdon, founder of the specialist travel agency Oxford Ski, explains: “There’s nothing new in the global elite choosing to make the Alps their winter lifestyle destination. From St Moritz in the 1920s and Megève in the 1960s to Courchevel, Lech and Verbier today, Alpine hotels and chalets simply supersede most other destinations in terms of luxury and service.”

Yet the five-star-plus ski holiday is evolving. Back in the 1980s, the average cost of a ski holiday from the UK was about AU$400 and luxury operators could match a group of skiers with a smart catered chalet for some AU$17,000, throw in a day’s heliskiing and bottomless champagne

Ski in style

Clockwise, from left: Chalet Trois Couronnes in Verbier, Switzerland; taking on the slopes; children learn young.

and leave them to it, with no complaints. Today’s ultrawealthy require luxury touches to be added at every turn of their winter holiday, and their craziest whims to be fulfilled, with price tags to match.

/ The new normal

Yesterday’s exceptional has become today’s norm: in the world’s first self-described seven-star chalet, Chalet N in Lech, guests can expect a fleet of chauffeur-driven Land Rovers to scoop them up from the private jet airport at Innsbruck to deliver them to a world of bullet-proof windows, titanium cutlery, shower curtains fashioned from Swarovski crystals and pillows embroidered with their initials.

Just across the pistes, in the twin Arula Chalets, you’ll find spa walls crafted from Himalayan salt, a self-playing Steinway piano, a private ice rink and an army of staff working around the clock. Guests staying at the new Les Chalets Airelles in Courchevel will discover nightly turndown gifts of costly Guerlain cosmetics or Fusalp ski clothing, as well as a ski valet to place skis on the snow for guests each morning.

Sarah Sundstedt of the Alpine luxury operator Bramble Ski says: “Recent years have seen us adopt next-level service to tailor trips precisely to our clients’ very specific needs. We smooth every step of their journey, from unpacking their bags on arrival to packing them on departure, layering each item in gold tissue paper.”

Indeed, it now takes the delivery of tigers as the finishing touch for a party to raise a manicured eyebrow (yes, it did happen). Michelin-star chefs are helicoptered into chalets to whip up lunch, fresh grass is procured daily for the toileting needs of prized pet pooches and drone light shows own the night skies above sprawling chalets (much to the ire of Verbier’s locals).

/ Instructor or skiing butler?

An integral part of the ultra-luxury ski holiday experience is the pre-arrival concierge service, during which intimate personal preferences are shared with the chalet’s dedicated manager. It has become standard procedure in the top chalets to secure preferred tipples, restaurant tables, heli-skiing guides, yoga instructors and masseuses well before the arrival of guests. In the most personal of touches, some residences offer guests the option of

The rich’s winter playgrounds Clockwise, from above: Bramble Ski Pro service; Verbier Mountain, Switzerland; the Daria chalet from Hip Hideouts; Daria exterior.

framed family photographs on bedside tables. Unsurprisingly, the world’s top chalets are staffed by experts in the field of customer service – although many guests still insist on flying in their own staff. As Longsdon explains, exceptional service extends to the slopes, where instructors are often employed by a family year after year. “The cream of the instructor crop might joke about being ski butlers, spending more time carrying their clients’ make-up and lunch outfit changes than teaching them to ski, but they become trusted members of their guests’ staff retinue.”

Founded by ski instructors, Bramble Ski tapped into this trend with its Bramble Ski Pro service. This elite team is trained by the renowned Ecole Hôtelière Suisse in Lausanne, the pinnacle of hospitality management tuition. Instructors learn to become as adept at teaching ski drills as handling tycoon tantrums – they’re then at guests’ disposal for two days free of charge (worth over €1,000) when staying in a catered Bramble Ski property (prices from €27,820 per week).

/ Under the radar

Channelling hipster New York and Shoreditch with its understated take on chalet life, with properties featuring slick interiors, quirky artworks and underground brands more typically found in members clubs in Hoxton, Hip Hideouts is well accustomed to hosting famous guests, who value the operator’s ability to deliver discretion, in Val d’Isère. As Caroline Mothersole, head of sales and marketing, explains: “Our clients now prize discrete family time, without any social media presence, above all else.”

She goes on to explain: “We’ll arrange an assistant to greet guests off their private jet, pass security control and usher them to their helicopter transfer up to Val. Once here, we work with the best local ski guides to whisk them through ski lift queues and to secluded tables at mountain restaurants. We regularly host A-listers here for a week or more without anybody noticing.”

LUXURY SKIING

/ Blow-outs and buy-outs

In the Swiss resort of Verbier, the polar explorer turned founding director of Ski Verbier Exclusive, Tom Avery, has become adept at arranging lavish experiences and blow-out parties in secret venues. “As guests are staying longer, they’re embracing mountain life and culture in all its forms, with skiing becoming a secondary element of their trip,” he explains.

Avery regularly arranges for guests to tailor their own heli-picnic –taking a scenic helicopter flight around the Matterhorn before landing at 3,400 metres to feast on lobster, on a table carved from snow. With prices starting from CHF15,000 (AU$23,500) for two, for a 15-minute flight followed by champagne, cheese fondue and petit fours (add AU$17,500 for 500 grams of beluga caviar), it’s a modern take on classic Swiss culture.

For those special occasions, when even the larger ultrachalets in the Alps can’t accommodate, the popular option is the hotel buy-out. As Longsdon explains: “With just 30 to 40 rooms, many Alpine hotels are the perfect size for these exclusive-use events, such as Le K2 Altitude in Courchevel and La Mourra Hotel Village in Val d’Isère. Guests looking to push the boat out will often work with a production company to choreograph a three-day extravaganza.” Wealthy hosts will splurge what Longsdon describes as “a seven-figure sum” for the privilege.

/ All the gear

Skiing might have become a secondary activity for the superrich, but that’s not to say they’re willing to scrimp on kit, whether they use it or not. The hottest clothing story on the pistes this winter comes from a new collaboration between Fusalp and Swiss luxury watchmaker Zenith.

The French sportswear brand has designed a capsule Zenith wardrobe with ‘storm cuff’ sleeves on the ski jackets (from AU$2,750) – a zippered opening has been designed to facilitate the viewing of the wearer’s limited-edition Swiss Defy Classic Skeleton Fusalp watch (from CHF 9,900, about AU$15,500).

The A-list is donning gear from the Bomber x Bentley Ice Edition. Handcrafted in Italy, the skis (US$2,750) and carbon helmet (US$995) are adorned with Winged B badges and a pattern that echoes the tessellation of Bentley’s leather upholstery for a touch of home on the slopes. CT

“The cream of the instructors joke about being ski butlers, spending more time carrying their clients’ lunch outfit changes than teaching them to ski.”

WAKE UP TO SLEEP TOURISM

Lynch

It had to happen. Tourism operators, anxious to spot the next Big Thing have realised there is something we all do in a day that is yet to be properly commercialised. Welcome to Sleep Tourism. And if you feel your eyes glazing over and your lids getting heavier as you read this, that could be because you are about to experience the very latest trend in travel.

The term apparently refers to those who prioritise rest and relaxation while travelling. Forget hiking, parasailing and mountaineering, it’s really about getting a good night’s kip.

According to Roman Russo, founder, main author and “chief happiness officer” at Optimal Happiness, sleep tourists often seek out experiences that promote relaxation and better sleep. We’re talking about soundproof rooms, pillow menus, Egyptian cotton sheets, merino blankets, “mindfulness” activities, mantras and sleep meditation.

Sleep researcher Dr Rebecca Robbins tells CNN Travel: “People often associate travel with decadent meals, extending their bedtimes, the attractions and the things you do while you’re travelling, almost at the cost of sleep. Now, there’s just been a huge seismic shift in our collective awareness and prioritisation on wellness and well-being.”

In turn, companies are offering unique experiences, such as sleep pods in airports or luxury hotels with specialised sleep packages. These options cater to busy professionals who want to make the most of their holiday, while at the same time naturally catching up on much-needed sleep.

So Sleep Tourism focuses on rest and rejuvenation rather than the destination. But, of course, it is mostly combined with regular travel – hard to know how even the inventive people at Flight Centre could sell you the idea of travelling in your own bed (let’s wait for the Metaverse to do that). So you take a trip to a historic city – and stay in a luxury hotel known for its exceptional sleeping experience.

You won’t be surprised to learn that the mobile phone and technology are the catalyst for this craze. After all, just moments after we invented the mobile phone and internet, we created an industry to help us avoid them. This is how offering no internet connectivity and removing your phone connection becomes a commodity a hotel can charge for.

“When it comes down to it, travellers book hotels for a place to sleep,” Dr Rebecca Robbins, a co-author of the book Sleep for Success!, tells Pure Wow, a travel website.

It’s a big turnaround for travel. Look through any supplement and you’ll find travel operators offering nothing but activities. But what about what happens once you hit the sack?

Martin Seeley, sleep expert and CEO at MattressNextDay, says: “Sleep tourism may sound like a tall order, but there is some solid science behind it. Sleep plays an important role in brain function and overall health, and many people aren’t getting enough of it.

"People have trouble falling asleep at night because their minds are racing with thoughts about work or life in general. Others have trouble staying asleep due to stress or anxiety about what tomorrow may bring.”

The Park Hyatt New York has six dedicated “sleep suites” produced in partnership with AI mattress maker Bryte. “The partnership with Bryte came at the perfect time postpandemic,” general manager Laurent Ebzant told Conde Naste. “Focusing on the attributes of a room that has a prime sleeping area was a point of focus for us.”

The Bryte mattresses “have 90 intelligent cushions that sense, adjust to, and relieve the body’s pressure points. The mattress also controls the climate, tracks and provides sleep statistics and insights that can be accessed on your phone, and is able to respond to the unique needs of couples.”

The Four Seasons Bali offers a 60-minute session called a “sacred nap.” Guests get to snooze suspended from the bamboo ceiling in an aerial silk hammock, listening to the sounds of nature and the life story of Buddha as told by resident wellness mentor Ibu Fera.

One hotel that seems to have a more traditional view of sleep is the Champagne Hotel and Spa. The Royal Sleep Experience includes essential oils, melatonin-based drops, a meditation box and a “candle massage”. Sadly, a glass of bubbles is not included. CT

You may not be conscious of it, but while you’re unconscious you could be experiencing the very latest tourism trend. Peter

tries not to nod off.

“Forget hiking and parasailing, it’s really about getting a good night’s kip.”