ADVENTURE: Visiting nature's wonders by sea

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ADVENTURE passenger

VISITING NATURE’S WONDERS BY SEA

CALL OF THE KIMBERLEY AUSTRALIA'S MOST RUGGED DESTINATION

ONES TO WATCH THE SPICE ISLANDS, MEXICO & THE HEBRIDES

RIVERS OF ADVENTURE A JOURNEY THROUGH THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST

FREE INFORMATION EVENTS REGISTER NOW! 1300 737 178

AWAKEN YOUR SENSE OF WONDER

POLAR & TROPICAL LUXURY EXPEDITIONS BY PONANT Want to feel outnumbered in Antarctica amongst the teeming wildlife? Get the chance to spot a polar bear or meet the Inuit in the Arctic? Or maybe marvel at the Kimberley’s ancient landscape up-close in a Zodiac®? Whatever experience your adventurous spirit seeks, you will find it among our selection of luxury expeditions. Embark on a unique and enriching voyage offering exceptional itineraries to iconic sites, remote locations inaccessible to larger ships, and lesser-known ports.

Why Travel with PONANT? • World Leader of Luxury Expeditions with 20 years’ experience • Sustainable, environmentally friendly, modern, small luxury expedition ships - limited to only 264 guests • Experienced expedition teams of naturalist guides and destination experts • Exciting Zodiac® outings and shore landings allow access to hard-to-reach locations • All-inclusive Expeditions: All meals, Open Bar#, free Wi-Fi, all Zodiac® outings, shore excursions and lectures • Polar parka gift and free boot rental included on Polar Expeditions • French touch on board: luxury amenities, elegant decor, refined cuisine and wine selection

Book early & save up to 30%!* EMBLEMATIC ANTARCTICA: Nov. 2019 to Feb. 2020 & Nov. 2020 to Feb. 2021. 10 nights from $12,370 pp(1) GREENLAND OF GREAT EXPLORERS: 25th June 2020. 14 nights from $16,450 pp(2) ICONIC KIMBERLEY: May to August 2020. 10 nights from $13,280 pp(3) Learn more about PONANT at our FREE Information Events in your capital city or request a brochure.

Contact your Travel Agent or our PONANT Cruise Consultants on: 1300 737 178 | reservations.aus@ponant.com | au.ponant.com *Ponant Bonus discount subject to change based on availability. All advertised prices are based on the Ponant Bonus fare per person, in AUD, on a double occupancy, including port taxes, yield managed, correct at time of writing - 29/07/2019. # Excludes premium alcohol beverages, these incur a charge. (1) For the 29th November 2020 cruise in a Superior Stateroom. (2) Cruise in a Deluxe Stateroom. (3) For the 16th August 2020 cruise in a Prestige Stateroom Deck 4.

Visit au.ponant.com for more details. Photographs © PONANT: Nick Rains, Eric Laignel / Studio PONANT: Lorraine Turci, Laurence Fischer. ABN: 35 166 676 517

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WELCOME

Adventure spreads its wings

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o sector has seen as much new technology and hardware as adventure cruising. The result: less visited regions of the world are now more accessible than ever.

From the toys of Scenic Eclipse, which boasts two helicopters and a submarine, to the eco-technology of hybrid expedition vessel the Roald Amundsen, there are so many new and exciting ways to reach remote regions.

An astonishing 39 expedition ships are set to launch from now until 2024. According to Cruise Lines International Association, trips to the Arctic, Galapagos, Antarctica and Greenland grew by a third to 148,000 passengers in 2017/2018.

The relentless march of tourists means cruise lines are being forced to find new and different destinations. Coral Expeditions, for instance, is opening up areas of West Papua. Lines like Silversea and Crystal are increasing their adventure offerings, while small-ship adventure specialists are in strong demand.

In the pages of this magazine, we celebrate some lesser known journeys, including to Australia’s Kimberley which has all the ingredients of a great adventure holiday.

We know you’ll enjoy our stories, and hope they help you find a cruise that will both challenge and enrich you.

Smooth sailing...

Peter Lynch, Publisher

Contents 4/ Trends

REVIEWS

Exciting new adventure ships set to launch.

12/ Coral Discoverer

8/ New destinations From the Spice Islands to Mexico and the Marquesas.

10/ Q+A A chat with National Geographic photographer Jason Edwards.

22/ Peru Machu Picchu is just one highlight of a trip to Cusco.

Exploring one of the world’s wildest coastlines: Western Australia’s The Kimberley.

16/ Aranui 5 Cruising the Marquesas on board this unique hybrid freighter/cruise ship.

18/ SS Legacy Plying the waters of the US’s Pacific Northwest on a replica coastal steamship.

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INTRODUCTION: TRENDS

Cool to be cold

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cruise passenger adventure

INTRODUCTION: TRENDS

With a huge array of new vessels and destinations on the market, Teresa Ooi finds expedition cruising more appealing than ever.

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St Andrews Bay, South Georgia.

Above right: Greg Mortimer, the new ship from Aurora Expeditions.

xpedition cruising is entering a golden age, with nearly 20 adventure ships entering the market this year and an estimated 19 more due to launch by 2022.

It is now easier than ever to visit the Arctic, Antarctica and even remote islands like South Georgia in the South Atlantic.

The ice is increasingly attracting younger cruisers, troubled by climate change, who want to hike on a glacier or come face-toface with penguins before it is too late. It is now cool to go on cold holidays.

But adventure expeditions are not confined to the ice poles. Increasingly, adventurous travellers are wanting to explore destinations like the Galapagos and, closer to home, the Kimberley Coast.

The hallmark of true expedition cruises is a deeper dive into destinations through immersive excursions ashore. The focus is on heading out on a Zodiac to explore and when cruisers return to ship, they want to share their experiences with like-minded travellers. They are also more likely to attend a talk by a naturalist or scientist than watch a Broadway show.

Many adventure seekers are attracted to luxury expedition ships with go-fast goodies like submarines and helicopters.

Seabourn has announced two new ultra-luxury, 264-passenger expedition ships equipped with six-seater submarines for immersive underwater explorations.

The first, Seabourn Venture, is scheduled to sail the Arctic in late 2021.

Polar adventure company Quark Expeditions recently announced its game-changing new ship, Ultramarine, will set sail in late 2020 carrying two twin-engine helicopters, two helidecks and 20 Zodiacs. The 199-passenger vessel will host robust off-ship excursions, such as heli-hiking, heli-skiing and sea kayaking.

Other established luxury lines are getting into this lucrative market and

offering services that kick the entire ice experience up a notch. The much-awaited Scenic Eclipse will feature two seven-seater helicopters, a custom-built submarine, Zodiacs, kayaks and dive gear onboard.

Crystal’s first polar-class mega yacht, the 100-passenger Crystal Endeavour, due to be launched in 2020, will have a recompression chamber, an underwater scooter and a remotely operated underwater vehicle for exploring wrecks.

Ponant expects two new luxury, 184-passenger expedition ships, Le Bougainville and Le Dumont-d’Urville, to join its fleet this year, with another two in 2020. They will all be equipped with Blue Eye, a multi-sensory underwater lounge.

Ponant has also partnered with National Geographic to have its experts onboard.

Luxury line Silversea will set sail on its first ever World Expedition Cruise in January, with more than 900 destinations across seven continents.

Australian company Aurora Expeditions is launching the Greg Mortimer later this year. The ship’s revolutionary X-Bow is designed to make sailing through rough waters a much smoother experience.

Coral Expeditions will launch the 120-passenger adventure ship Coral Geographer in 2021. Built with a shallow draft, advanced navigation and propulsion system, the ship will access remote locations usually closed to large vessels.

As concerns about sustainability grow, most of the new builds aim to reduce the ship’s impact. Most have zero speed stabilisers to keep stationary ships steady in the water to reduce fuel consumption and avoid casting anchors on sensitive reef beds. They also employ advanced recycling and wastewater-processing technology.

There has never been a better time to go on an expedition cruise and tick off the remote destinations on your bucket list. cruise passenger adventure

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wild thing Pummel through untamed jungles like the Costa Rican tapir.

Submerge with a snorkel and watch the kaleidoscope spin as sea turtles do. Scramble up an arroyo atop a friendly mule.

Immerse yourself in adventure in places where the destinations are wild and the critters even wilder.

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KAYAK l SNORKEL l HIKE l SKIFF l CULTURE l WILDLIFE * Select departures. Restrictions apply. Book by 10-31-19.

small ships, BIG adventures 22-90 guests

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joy ride with UnCruise Adventures

UnCruise defines adventure. It’s our name, our passion, and what sets us apart. Explore playgrounds offering the richest, wildest connections by hike, paddle, with locals. Places so tucked away that our cozy boats fit in just right.

Active: Mountain-goat scrambles, hours-long kayaking, slow and inquisitive snorkeling... Excursions are as hardcharging or as slow-paced as you like.

and seize opportunity. Linger for whale sprays and bow riding dolphins. Good day for a beach party on a deserted tropical island? Why not!

Backstage pass: Secluded bays and culturally immersive excursions grant you windows into worlds most travelers don’t ever see.

Inclusive: Excursions, adventure equipment, transfers, baggage handling, and yes, all food and beverages (alcohol too) are included in the fare. Truly no hidden costs.

Bridge: Location from which the boat is steered, and it’s open for you to chat up the captain—you’ll know him or her by name on day one; The flexible gap between itineraries and your #travelgoals, ready to change course when Mother Nature’s whimsy delivers opportunity.

Place: More than locations. They’re corners and coves to get a little lost in, and maybe a little misty-eyed. So small against a big land. So deep in another culture.

Entertainment: 24/7. Catch a bubble net feeding whale frenzy off the bow or a 3 a.m. northern lights spectacle.

Your kayak is your seat and the still waters, the stage. See the seal popping up? Now that’s a good time.

Flexibility: Within our routes we’re ready to turn, pause,

Port of call: Unusual and uncrowded, with wet landings and the occasional dry. A deserted island with a sloping shore that asks you to slip off your flip flops or into rubber boots as you step out of the skiff.

Small ships: Laid-back; 22-90 guests. That’s it. You get to know your travel comrades quickly, and yet there’s always an empty space on the bow to scout for wildlife and take it all in.

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define your un-ness

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ALASKA | COLUMBIA & SNAKE RIVERS | PACIFIC NORTHWEST | HAWAII | MEXICO | COSTA RICA | PANAMÁ | COLOMBIA | GALÁPAGOS

NEW DESTINATIONS

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE Cruisers are seeking more adventurous experiences in more far-flung and unexplored places, writes Teresa Ooi.

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he world is opening up to travellers like never before, as cruise lines take passengers to ever-more intrepid destinations in search of new and exciting wildlife spots, historical discoverys and cultural experiences.

At least two small-ship lines are heading for the Indonesian archipelagos of Maluku Islands (more commonly known as the Spice Islands) and Raja Ampat (meaning Four Kings), which both sit to the west of Papua. In these fascinating clusters of islands, passengers can visit colonial forts and 8

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palaces, absorb the heady aromas of vibrant spices, meet incredibly diverse wildlife and go diving at some of the world’s best sites.

Coral Expeditions’ new ship Coral Adventurer offers a 12-night immersive voyage through the Spice Islands, Raja Ampat and West Papua departing Darwin for Biak on December 21.

Boutique luxury line Aqua Expeditions has also earmarked the Spice Islands as its new destination for adventure seekers looking for culture, nature and wildlife, with a seven-night cruise to Raja Ampat offering some of the most astounding wildlife experiences both on the ground and underwater.

In the Spice Islands, guests will be able to retrace the footsteps of explorers of yore as they approach Banda Neira with its active Gunung Api volcano. During the 12th and 15th centuries, the world’s supply of nutmeg,

A boat anchors among the islands of Raja Ampat.

cloves and mace was grown in and traded from the Spice Islands, and the strong aromas of Banda’s local markets remain intoxicating to this day.

Raja Ampat comprises more than 1,500 islands that are home to more than 1,400 species of fish and about 75 per cent of the types of coral found throughout the world, offering some of the best snorkelling and diving spots on the planet.

On Misool island, one of the famous “Four Kings” of Raja Ampat, guests can visit the natural pool at Yapap, with turquoise seawater so clear that the sand and reefs on the ocean floor are clearly visible from the surface.

It is in Raja Ampat that you might be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the beautiful Wilson’s bird-ofparadise, which exists nowhere else in the world. These winged wonders live alongside 350 other species of bird, including kingfishers and king parrots.

Many of Raja Ampat’s beaches are nesting grounds for various turtle species including the Pacific leatherback, the largest living turtle species on Earth, and the area’s mangrove forests support significant populations of dugong and juvenile fish, in addition to manta rays, rare sea turtles and hammerheads.

While the South Pacific is considered to be one of the most popular destinations for Australian cruisers, there is still much of this beautiful region which is undiscovered.

Lindblad Expeditions is offering a new itinerary around Tahiti, which follows in the footsteps of Polynesian explorers. Departing in May, National Geographic Orion traverses these idyllic and remote destinations, weaving between the Tuamotu Archipelago and the Marquesas Islands for nine days.

This part of the South Pacific is known for its diving and explorations of active volcanos, as well as its little-touched natural beauty and cultures.

Aranui, the half-passenger, half-cargo ship which has been taking passengers around the Marquesas Islands for some years, is also seeing increasing numbers of cruisers looking to explore French Polynesia. Originally just a cargo ship, Aranui has been carrying guests in the region for the past 30 years and the line visits all six of the inhabited islands of the Marquesas as well as Fakarava and Rangiroa in the Tuamotus and Bora Bora in the Society Islands – places which are difficult to reach by other methods.

Dedicated animal expedition cruises are also becoming increasingly popular.

A fine example is the Lindblad Expedition voyage to Mexico’s Bahia Magdalena, one of the best places in the world to see grey whale mothers and their calves.

The new six-day itinerary, which begins operating in January on National Geographic Sea Lion, lets guests get up close to the whales, as well as learn about the desert ecosystem of California, kayak through swamps and mangrove forests and watch the seabird migration.

With these, and many more, adventure cruises on offer, there has never been a better time to seek adventure on your holiday. What are you waiting for?

3 more new destinations

Hebrides

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This beautiful part of Europe, is located northwest of Scotland. These stunning islands are a twitchers’ delight and visitors will see puffins, osprey and snowy owls, as well as minke and fin whales. The rugged coastline is great for long hikes.

Egypt

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The Nile is fast becoming on the radar of adventure cruisers. With a number of smaller lines offering yacht voyages to the deeper parts of this stunning river, visitors will get to see places like Esna.

Canadian Arctic

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Still considered to be one of the most intrepid regions, even for expedition cruisers, the Canadian Arctic is one of the last real adventure destinations.

Visitors will meet with local communities along the Northwest Passage route as well as meet local Inuits. cruise passenger adventure

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Q AND A: NAT GEO Macaws flock to a mineral lick in the Amazon Basin.

Q+A

The National Geographic photographer who is out to save the world.

■ National Geographic’s wildlife photographer Jason Edwards has been at the forefront of natural history photography for more than two decades.

The award-winning photographer from Melbourne is passionate about species conservation, climate change and the environment, and as such, is also an Associate Fellow of the International League of Conservation Photographers, an organisation that educates and inspires people globally about conservation issues.

With National Geographic now a partner of the luxury French cruise line Ponant, Edwards is set to be on board several of its expedition sailings from next year as one of the resident National Geographic photography experts.

In a special Q&A with Cruise Passenger, Edwards talks about cruising, animals and the future of planet Earth.

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Q: How did you get into wildlife photography?

A: My passion for photography started when I was in high school and my grandmother bought me a camera. When I left high school, I was offered a position as a zookeeper at Melbourne Zoo where I began taking photographs of their animals. At the same time, I began studying Animal Science and Applied Science. As my portfolio of images grew, I started a wildlife photography stock agency and whenever I had saved enough funds, I would go overseas to photograph wild animals and landscapes from Africa to the Amazon.

Q: Why are you working with Ponant?

A: I have been working on National Geographic’s expedition cruises for many years. Now that National Geographic has partnered with Ponant, I get to join their cruises as a photography expert, giving lectures, teaching techniques and helping people with their cameras. I’m a brilliant storyteller and enjoy educating people on how to look at the world differently through their photographs. Plus, I love the variety and I have access to amazing science, people and remote habitats in my current role.

Q: Are cruises to remote destinations teaching people more about endangered species and climate change?

A: If it is done well, then definitely, yes it is.

If you show people the effects of climate change, such as melting ice, and you also provide them with accurate information

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on sustainability and the environment, you can have a positive impact on their experience and knowledge.

Q: What worries you most about tourism and endangered species?

A: People don’t understand that travel has an immense impact on the environment and indigenous communities, and careless travellers can create quite a large carbon footprint. There’s also a misconception that travel has a positive economic impact on the destination. In fact, the trickle-down effect is nowhere near what people think. During safaris all over Africa, you see inexperienced drivers hurtling through a national park at 100 kilometres an hour because the tourists have limited time. These drivers are paid $10 a day and rely on tips to feed their families, but tourists aren’t tipping them because they don’t see enough of the wildlife.

Q: Are you optimistic about the future of our planet?

A: I am a glass half-full type of guy. The world is an incredible and amazing place, it’s not all doom and gloom. That said, everyone should do their bit for wildlife conservation and habitat preservation. We need to give the fragile habitats of our world a break to allow them to recuperate and regenerate. I recently witnessed young colonies of coral growing on the Great Barrier Reef, where it has been devastated by acidification. I have no idea whether the growth will continue but it was heartening to see nature trying to fight back. @jasonedwardsng and jasonedwards.co.

cruise passenger adventure

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SHIP REVIEW: CORAL DISCOVERER

parting of the seas

Western Australia’s Kimberley region has one of the world’s wildest coastlines, much of which is only accessible by sea, writes Mark Daffey.

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W

e all know the story about Moses and the Israelites crossing the Red Sea, right? Well, I’m witnessing a natural phenomenon that seems about as close as I’ll ever get to a re-enactment of that Biblical event.

Hours earlier, Montgomery Reef was submerged beneath several metres of tepid Indian Ocean water.

But with the ebbing tides, the seas have parted to reveal the world’s largest platform reef, and it’s like nothing I’ve ever seen.

The tides along this remote part of the Kimberley region, Western Australia, are some of the largest on the planet, dropping and rising by as much as 12 metres

SHIP REVIEW: CORAL DISCOVERER

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Coral Expeditions VESSEL: Coral Discoverer PASSENGER CAPACITY: 72 TOTAL CREW: 24 PASSENGER DECKS: 4 TONNAGE: 1779 ENTERED SERVICE: 2005 REFURBISHED: 2016 FACILITIES: En-suite cabins, 1000 sq. m. open deck space, indoor and outdoor bars, lecture lounge, kayaks and scuba equipment.

BOOKINGS: See coralexpeditions.com

Left: Exploring Montgomery Reef by Zodiac.

Below: Coral Discoverer cruises Doubtful Bay.

We spot stingrays and sawfish. And juvenile green turtles use this sheltered space as proxy nurseries because of the protection it offers.

“Every shark known to man also resides in these waters,” announces our ship’s naturalist Ian Morris, who lists tiger, hammerhead and reef sharks among those lurking beneath the surface. About the only nasty species missing here – but found everywhere else along this coast – is crocodiles.

“This would be a horrible habitat for them,” explains Morris. “The coral would tear up their soft undersides.”

The ship that’s ferrying us along this barely populated stretch of wilderness, from Broome to Darwin, is Coral Discoverer – a slick, 63-metre-long vessel that’s equipped to handle the fluctuating tides found in these parts. Its three-metre draught enables it to navigate shallow waters, while automated stabilisers allow it to float in the open seas as if in a bathtub.

Late each afternoon, just as the sun sets, guests gather on the open-air Sun Deck up top to order the day’s cocktail special or to drink chilled beer and wines.

The lounge doubles as a theatre for guest lecturer presentations and documentary film viewings. Thirtysix spacious en-suite staterooms, some with private balconies, are spread across three levels. And the ship’s tender, Xplorer, comfortably fits all 72 passengers during a minimum of two shore excursions per day.

So, what’s worth seeing? First up are the islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago, where swirling rock contortions caused by shifting landmasses are bound to boost your appreciation of the science of geology. The tides are at their most extreme here and you’ll see cerulean whirlpools powerful enough to swallow undersized dinghies. High above the waterline lies evidence of Aboriginal occupation from 30,000 years ago. And, depending on the tides, you may visit the Lacepede Islands, a safe haven for lesser frigatebirds, brown boobies and crested terns.

Further north is what many consider to be the highlight of a Kimberley cruise – the Horizontal Falls.

Each second here, one million litres of water flood through two narrow gaps in the King Leopold Ranges, leading Sir David Attenborough to christen it “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world”. Called a

during the massive spring tides. As such, they recede with such ferocity that much of the seawater gets left behind, pooling in depressions on the reef’s surface then funnelling back into the ocean as gushing cascades. One Swiss couple likens the spectacle to the Norwegian fjords. A Tasmanian imagines white-water rafting down them.

But it’s not just waterfalls we see here – there’s wildlife, too. All sorts of seabirds find nourishment in these nutrient-rich waters, from white-bellied sea eagles snatching up fish in their talons to snowyfeathered eastern great egrets that loiter along the water’s edge, hoping to pluck a meal from the shallows.

A Stokes’ sea snake swims alongside us in our tender. cruise passenger adventure

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SHIP REVIEW: AVALON ENVISION

> The verdict

HIGHS: Variety. There’s never a dull day.

LOWS: Early nights, mostly.

Passengers often retreat to their cabins immediately after dinner.

BEST FOR: Nature and maritime history lovers hankering to visit one of the world’s last great wilderness regions, minus the cabaret and casino distractions.

Clockwise from above: King Cascades; passengers swim in a Camp Creek waterhole, Prince Regent River; the writer’s catch of the day; Wandjina rock art in Swift Bay.

tidal pinch, it has been compared to an ocean trying to fit through a letterbox and is best experienced on a thrilling Zodiac ride.

Each cruise differs – again, because of the tides. The ship’s expedition leader may incorporate excursions up or into little-visited rivers and bays, or through crocodile-infested mangrove eco-systems that Morris describes as “nature’s supermarkets”. Beach walks visit ancient middens and Aboriginal rock-art galleries.

Perhaps the prettiest area is around Raft Point in Doubtful Bay, where headlands and islands rise vertically from the sea. A close second would be Prince Frederick Harbour, at the mouth of the Hunter River.

Watching the colours change here at dawn will be a treasured memory.

Maritime explorers carved their initials into a bulbous boab tree at Careening Bay, in the Prince Regent Nature Reserve, where the spring-fed King Cascades flows year-round into an ink-black lagoon populated by menacing salties.

More seasonal is King George Falls, the state’s largest single drop waterfall by volume. Even when the falls are reduced to a trickle late in the dry season, the tender voyage beneath towering sandstone walls is still mighty impressive.

On top of all that, there are fishing opportunities and optional helicopter flights to Mitchell Falls, Western Australia’s highest. Add them all up and you’ll soon come to realise that the choices are many and varied… just like the tides, really.

WIN A KIMBERLEY CRUISE WITH CORAL EXPEDITIONS. SEE P16 – 17 IN CRUISE PASSENGER 14

cruise passenger adventure

TASMANIA

For true explorers Experience the windswept beauty, harsh colonial heritage and the fresh produce of our island state on our 7 night Pristine Tasmania expeditions this summer.

Round-trip from Hobart, our expedition ship Coral Discoverer will show you Tasmania in a different light. Hike in spectacular national parks including an overnight visit to the rarely seen region of Bathurst Harbour and Port Davey. Encounter local wildlife including dolphins, seabirds, fur seals and the wombats and white wallabies unique to Tasmania. Come back after your day’s excursion and relax over a cool climate wine at the ship’s panoramic Explorer bar as you sail to tomorrow’s adventure.

If you are curious about the world around you, and freedom from the crowds is your idea of luxury, Coral Expeditions is your cruise line. For 34 years, we have taken like-minded guests to remote cultures and nature, with personal service and warm Australian hospitality.

7 Nights > Hobart – Hobart > Departs Jan to Mar 2020

call 1800 079 545 visit www.coralexpeditions.com email cruise@coralexpeditions.com

SHIP REVIEW: ARANUI 5

Huka hospitality

Travelling French Polynesia on a dual-purpose vessel brings all sorts of surprises, finds Janine Williamson.

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s we stroll through the main street on Tahuata a man walks past with a large black pig on a leash as if it’s the most natural thing in the world. He breaks into a warm gap-toothed smile when we ask if it’s OK to take photos and poses with his splendid porker. We decide not to spoil the moment by inquiring if it is a pet or destined for a pot.

Another afternoon we see a man wobble past on a rusty bicycle with a couple of

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fragrant freshly baked French baguettes tucked under his arm. These are just two of the wonderful snapshots of daily life on the Marquesas Islands.

The 12 French Polynesian islands – with a total population fewer than 9,500, only six islands are inhabited – are scattered in the South Pacific, 1,500 kilometres from Tahiti, making the archipelago one of the most isolated on the globe. Throughout the year just two ships sail back and forth from the Tahitian capital, Papeete, providing the inhabitants with a vital lifeline. One is a dedicated cargo vessel and I am aboard the other: Aranui 5.

SHIP REVIEW: ARANUI 5

There is plenty of time for us to explore each desination and meet the islanders.”

> To book

Aranui 5 sails 12-night cruises year-round from Tahiti to the Marquesas Islands. Cruise-only fares start from AUD $6,536 for a twin-share cabin. aranui.com

Totally unlike any other ship you’ve seen, it’s a combination of a freighter and 254-passenger cruise ship. Indeed, it looks as if it could have been created from two vessels that have been dissected and stuck together in the middle.

Aranui 5 mostly sails at night in order to maximise the daylight hours in which it delivers the cargo. This means there is plenty of time for us to explore each destination and meet the islanders, as the ship often moors for the whole day.

What adds to the Marquesas’ allure is that each island is different, and they even have their own dialects. At each

destination, a fleet of all-terrain vehicles, driven by multi-tasking and ever-smiling townsfolk, arrives to collect us and take us to towns, villages, museums, gardens and archaeological sites, chatting about their lives on the way. On Ua Huka we meet Hina, the local postmistress, who welcomes us with a necklace made from colourful seeds before driving us around, telling us how much she misses her son, who is a soldier in Germany.

First settled by seafaring Polynesians as early as 300AD, the archipelago was ‘discovered’ by Spanish navigator Álvaro de Mendaña in 1595. But he didn’t hang around for long when confronted by tattooed and war-painted tribes who were partial to cannibalising their enemies.

European Christian missionaries returned to instil ‘civilisation’, bringing with them devastating diseases, and in 1884 they banned the symbolic tatus in the very place the body art originated.

Today, bold black tattoos in striking geometric patterns or intricate designs, often depicting the turtle, an important creature in Polynesian culture, adorn virtually every islander and Aranui 5 crewmember. Our guide explains that the inkings were once ‘earned’ at various stages of tribal life; today they remain deeply significant and personal, charting ancestors, family, career and personality.

As well as the pig, we encounter other four-legged inhabitants on Ua Huka.

With coats glistening in the afternoon sun, a small herd of wild horses graze on the shore, the windfall from nearby mango trees provide a sweet treat to supplement their diet. We learn the wiry animals are descendants of horses transported from Chile to Ua Huka in 1856 and they now outnumber the human inhabitants.

Walking back to the ship, we meet some children playing marbles on the quayside and they pause to wave. Not one of them has a mobile phone or games console.

Back on board I speak to Captain Christophe Dupuy. The Frenchman has previously worked on both passenger and cargo ships, which makes him ideal for juggling the varying needs of his human consignment and up to 1,700 tonnes of inanimate freight.

“Think of everything you would find in a grocery store and more, and we deliver it,” says Dupuy. “We carry the post, cars, bicycles, small boats, fresh, canned and frozen items – including lots of ice cream, as the islanders love it. On this sailing, we’ve got concrete, wood and other materials to build 12 village houses. We also take goods back to Tahiti from the islands such as copra, a dried coconut product valued for the oil that is extracted from it for livestock feed.

“Horses, pig and goats are transported within the islands, but the most unusual thing I’ve ever carried is bees. They had to be kept in hives on the open deck and some of them buzzed around a bit, but they didn’t cause any bother and to the best of my knowledge none of them flew away before we delivered them!”

As the brawny cargo-handlers get to work I wonder what we’re going to see in our next port of call on this fascinating and unique voyage.

Above: Marquesan men perform a traditional dance.

Right: Tahuata locals out for a walk with their pig.

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SHIP REVIEW: SS LEGACY

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: UnCruise VESSEL: SS Legacy PASSENGER CAPACITY: 90 TOTAL CREW: 35 PASSENGER DECKS: 4 TONNAGE: 1,472 ENTERED SERVICE: 1983 REFURBISHED: 2013 FACILITIES: Marine platform, kayaks, paddle boards, inflatable skiffs, two on-deck hot tubs, fitness equipment, piano, DVD and book library, wine bar.

BOOKINGS: See uncruise.com

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SHIP REVIEW: SS LEGACY

HELL’S CANYON Following in the footsteps of early explorers sees John Roberts traversing rivers and getting back to nature.

L

ong the domain of history buffs and wine lovers, the Pacific Northwest in the United States is a region worth exploring and UnCruise Adventures has tapped the majestic Columbia and Snake rivers to find a thrilling way to do it.

The expedition cruise company offers week-long Rivers of Adventure itineraries between Portland, Oregon, and Clarkston, Washington. I boarded SS Legacy replica coastal steamship in Clarkston, which sits on Snake River at the mouth of the downstream entrance to Hells Canyon, the deepest canyon in North America.

This canyon was the kick-off spot for a week of active adventures with UnCruise. The U.S. based line has specialised in Alaskan adventure cruises for more than 20 years but also offers expedition itineraries in Mexico,

Hawaii, Costa Rica, Panama, Belize, Guatemala, Colombia, and, of course, the Pacific Northwest.

UnCruise’s ships carries between 22 and 90 passengers, and SS Legacy is the largest of the fleet. We had only three dozen passengers onboard for our journey, so there was a little more space to enjoy with our new friends in the bar and lounge area or while walking the decks. I especially liked that there was never a wait for either of the two hot tubs.

The ship offers basic, bordering on austere, amenities. But luxury is not the aim on these cruises. The vessel is meant to serve as a cosy home base, and it gets the job done. Small cabins open to a main promenade deck, so you can step right into the wilderness simply by opening your stateroom door in the morning.

Left: Multnomah Falls. Right: passengers leave Legacy by skiff.

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SHIP REVIEW: SS LEGACY We started the first morning of the trip with a fresh breakfast and a birdwatching walk along the path adjacent to the pier in Clarkston. Then it was back to the ship to board a speedboat to take us down Snake River past Hells Gate State Park and into Hells Canyon.

These are the lands that Lewis and Clark boldly travelled on their famed pioneering expedition in the early 1800s, the first exploration by American settlers beyond the Continental Divide and into the western part of the US. It’s this chapter of American history that traditionally has been the focus of river cruises on the Snake and Columbia Rivers.

UnCruise Adventures has also offered such heritagefocused voyages, but our sailing on SS Legacy gave us a chance to learn about the area in a more active way, going deeper into the wilds to imagine what it might have been like when the region was untamed and undiscovered in 1805.

Our UnCruise guides gave onboard enrichment talks in addition to leading the adventures ashore. We heard about the geology and wildlife of the area, the Lewis and Clark journey, and the culture and history of the indigenous Nez Perce people who have lived in the Columbia River Plateau since at least the 18th century.

The Rivers of Adventure itinerary touches three states – Washington, Oregon and Idaho – and four rivers, with the addition of the Palouse and Deschutes (for rafting).

In Lyons Ferry, Washington, we anchored in a stunningly gorgeous spot at the confluence of the Snake and Palouse rivers to go ashore for a morning hike in Palouse Falls State Park. After lunch back onboard, we went for a long sunset kayak outing in a quiet canyon in the Palouse River.

The Pacific Northwest is notorious for its rain, but the eastern side of the Cascade Mountain range where we were for much of the cruise is more desert-like, and this made for dry sunny days during our fall trip.

We also sailed into popular wine regions, with stops in Richland, Washington, and Hood River, Oregon, where excursions included bike rides to wineries for tastings.

Yoga and stretch classes are offered on UnCruise Adventures ships, and we joined the sessions to get the blood flowing each day. We also made it a nightly ritual to have a few beers or cocktails (included in your fare) at the bar in the lounge, taking recommendations from our friendly bartender DeeDee. A talented chef and crew prepare fresh-made dishes, made from local vegetables, fruits, seafoods and meats.

A baker also serves cookies, brownies, pastries and breads fresh from the oven.

My favourite days were those when we had the most time off the ship for challenging and fun excursions. On our day in Richland, UnCruise arranged for free bike rentals so we could enjoy some independent biking along the scenic Riverfront Trail that traces the Columbia River.

We also ventured onto the Deschutes River for a thrilling eight-mile white-water rafting trip through 20

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Clockwise from right: a cycle tour through wine country; hiking Rowena Crest; kayaking on Palouse River; rafting on Deschutes River.

Class III rapids. It was a fun day in the sun, hearing local lore from our resident rafting guide Larry and enjoying a picnic lunch on shore afterward.

One more big day of activity followed in The Dalles, Oregon, with a sunrise hike on the Rowena Plateau where we spotted deer roaming the grasses, and up a twisting switchback to Tom McCall Point, where we had views of Mount Adams and Mount Hood. That afternoon was another bike ride; this time along the Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail. Back in town, some cruisers sought out cafes and wine bars, while I joined my fellow beer lovers to hunt down a craft brewery. We settled in at Full Sail Brewing Company for a flight to celebrate our exploits.

The cruise ended the next morning in Portland, but first we had one more stop. From the small town of Cascade Locks, we set off for visits to the Bonneville Lock and Dam and Multnomah Falls. As light rains fell during the afternoon, I took a short hike on the Pacific Crest Trail, enjoying one last chance to get into the wilderness and cap off the week of adventures.

SHIP REVIEW: SS LEGACY

> The verdict

HIGHS: The fantastic food, variety of excursions, interesting itinerary in a lightly cruised region coupled with fantastic service from crew and guides makes this a wonderful experience.

LOWS: Cabins and bathrooms are small, making for a tight fit for two.

Also, beds are not especially comfortable, and the rooms can feel damp because of the proximity to the outdoors. Active travellers looking for long and challenging hikes, bike rides and kayaking sessions might be disappointed.

BEST FOR: The Rivers of Adventure itinerary is ideal for travellers who prefer the intimacy of a small-ship expedition. This cruise mixes plenty of outdoors activities with programming that helps tell the story of the region.

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DESTINATION: PERU Xxxx xxx xxxx xxxxx xxxx x x x xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx

Lost city Conquering Machu Picchu and altitude sickness starts at check in, finds David Dickstein.

T

he JW Marriott El Convento Cusco, in the former capital of the Inca Empire, was constructed in a former 16th-century Augustinian convent, which itself was built over the top of preserved Incan ruins, as were many Spanish buildings of the time.

As a result, the hotel is an immersive historical experience from the very moment you check in.

Soaking up history within close proximity of your Cusco hotel is how both educators and doctors recommend you begin a trip to inner Peru. Cusco, one of the ten highest cities in the world, has an elevation of 3,400 metres above sea level – significantly higher than the point at which acute altitude sickness can occur.

Allowing the body to acclimatise to the reduced oxygen for at least 24 hours before engaging in serious sightseeing is advisable; a layover in Lima doesn’t count since Peru’s capital sits at sea level.

Some of Cusco’s finer hotels proactively come to your high-altitude rescue with a jar of dried coca leaves in the lobby to chew or, more likely, brew into tea. Coca leaves have been used as a traditional remedy for a variety of ills, most notably the symptoms of altitude sickness. Don’t make the mistake of bringing them home though; coca’s power lies in a psychoactive alkaloid which is synthesised to make cocaine, rendering it illegal most places outside of the Andes.

While coca has cured altitude sickness for 4,500 years, a more recent remedy for 22

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Right: Cusco’s Plaza de Armas.

Below: llamas at Machu Picchu.

Above right: local plays the quena.

which the Incas can’t take credit is oxygen-enriched hotels, like the JW Marriott. Whether it was this, the bowl of chicken soup and pot of coca tea I was given on arrival, a prescription of Diamox started two days prior to the trip, avoiding alcohol the first day or a combination of all these measures, this resilient guy would have made the Incas proud.

Safe, Swanky Sightseeing For getting to Machu Picchu, nothing beats the three-hour Belmond Hiram Bingham train for luxury, safety and ease. Five-star, Orient Express-style treatment for the whole package costs about a grand per person, more than double other packages with similar inclusions: the train between Cusco and the town of Aguas Calientes, a bus that makes the 20-minute drive uphill to the entrance, entry into Machu Picchu and an English-speaking tour guide.

From the outside, the blue Hiram Bingham train looks comparable to the

DESTINATION: PERU

Cusco is much more than the gateway to Machu Picchu.”

more economical PeruRail and Inca Rail options. Inside the 1920s-style Pullman carriage, though, the differences are vast.

The crew of the Hiram Bingham, named for the American explorer who rediscovered the citadel in 1911, appreciates that this is likely a once-in-a-lifetime experience for guests. Lunch and dinner are served at your private, white-cloth covered table. Live music adds to the ambience of the bar car and the connected observatory car, gleaming with polished wood and brass.

Whether you go by rail, bus or foot on the now highly regulated Inca Trail, Machu Picchu is a sight to behold for the maximum 2,500 visitors allowed entry per day. The site retains an element of mystery, as the exact purpose of Machu Picchu has never been fully established. Most agree that the Lost City of the Incas was built as an estate for Emperor Pachacuti, who ruled from 1438 to 1471, but little else is known as the Incas had no written language to record their history.

Side Trips and Side Dishes Cusco is much more than the gateway to Machu Picchu. The entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage site; Cusco’s main square, the bustling Plaza de Armas, is home to the emblematic Cusco Cathedral and the ornate Church La Compañia de Jesus, as well as countless roaming vendors, a KFC for homesick westerners, and some stellar people watching.

An hour’s drive from the city is the peaceful Sacred Valley – a strong contender for number-two attraction from Cusco.

Devoting a day or two to the valley rewards visitors with an even greater appreciation of Incan innovation than Machu Picchu.

Most mesmerising are the well-preserved stone terraces of Ollantaytambo, once a stronghold of Inca resistance to the Spanish.

Thanks to the Incas and the Chanapata, Qotacalla, Killke and Wari civilisations before them, the fertile Sacred Valley remains a major hub for produce and fish farming, to the benefit of Cusco’s vibrant culinary scene. Its influence is felt – and tasted – in the fruit, vegetables, cheeses and meats at the San Pedro public market.

Don’t be shocked when you spot roasted guinea pig on a menu; cuy is a traditional entree in Andean culture. Tastes like rabbit.

Speaking of adorable and appetising animals, in their native lands of the high Andes, alpacas are as much a source of protein as they are of soft wool. It becomes clear why when I order a plate of lipsmacking chorizo de alpaca in Urubamba.

It’s probably best to stick to the topic of the wool around the festively adorned alpaca that welcomes guests to the JW. Panchita may have red meat lower in cholesterol than chicken and higher in iron than beef, but she also has feelings. cruise passenger adventure

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