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Go your own way How smart travellers beat Europe’s crowds
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NO KIDS | MOST AWARDED | VIKING INCLUSIVE VALUE
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HUMPBACK WHALE, ANTARC TIC A
CR ABEATER SEAL , ANTARC TIC A
ADELIE PENGUINS, ANTARC TIC A
ZODIAC EXCURSION, ANTARC TIC A
SCAN TO LEARN MORE
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Discover More Your journey of a lifetime begins here Journey to the unexplored wilderness of Antarctica, the frozen landscapes of the Arctic or uncover the beauty of North America’s Great Lakes with Viking Expeditions. We have reenvisioned expedition voyages for true explorers to facilitate exploration and scientific discovery. Our ships are purpose-built for expeditions to optimise exploring the remotest parts of the world in comfort. Featuring our signature serene Scandinavian design, they are small enough to navigate remote areas but large enough to provide speed, superior handling, and stability in rough seas. Our vessels merge comfort and exploration in an unprecedented way.
WEATHER BALLOON, ANTARC TIC A
As The Thinking Person’s Cruise Line, we design our itineraries so you can explore and engage with the nature, culture, science and history of a destination. Snowshoe through the magnificent polar landscapes; kayak in still, icy inlets; or take a Zodiac to observe majestic wildlife in their natural habitats. Science is an important aspect of your experience, participate in collaborative science during your excursions with experiential activities or fieldwork, facilitated via landings by Zodiac, Special Operations Boat cruising or optional submarine journeys. At Viking, we firmly believe it is important for us to support research efforts and new scientific discoveries, and we provide every opportunity for our guests to further their understanding of the world around them.
Buenos Aires
FINSE TERR ACE
Buenos Aires
ARGENTINA
Drake Passage
Atlantic Ocean
Damoy Point Lemaire Channel • • • • • • • • Example expedition destinations
– Cruise
– Char tered Flight •
West Point Island Port Stanley Falkland Islands
Ushuaia Beagle Channel Drake Passage
ANTARCTICA
Whalers Bay
•
South Atlantic Ocean
ARGENTINA
Ushuaia Beagle Channel Cape Horn
Half Moon Island Brown Bluff
ANTARCTIC PENINSULA
Cuverville Island Neko Harbor Petermann Island
South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands
Elephant Island Half Moon Island Paulet Island Brown Bluff – Char tered Flight Rongé Island • Overnight Antarctic Peninsula Example expedition destinations ANTARCTICA Weddell Sea
– Cruise •
•
••••••••
A N TA R C T I C E X P L O R E R
A N TA R C T I C A & S O U T H G E O R G I A I S L A N D
Buenos Aires to Ushuaia or Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires to Ushuaia to Buenos Aires
13 DAYS | 2 COUNTRIES
19 DAYS | 3 COUNTRIES
SET SAIL: NOV-DEC 2024; JAN-FEB & NOV-DEC 2025;
SET SAIL: JAN-FEB & NOV-DEC 2025; JAN-FEB 2026
From $18,195pp in Nordic Balcony From $23,995pp in Nordic Penthouse
From $26,995pp in Nordic Balcony From $36,995pp in Nordic Penthouse
JAN-FEB 2026
S AV E U P TO $2,000 P E R COUPL E
S AVE U P TO $ 2 , 0 0 0 PE R CO UPLE
*Conditions apply. Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability, include all advertised discounts, and are correct at time of printing. A refundable deposit (in the form of a future cruise voucher less a $100 cancellation fee) is required at the time of booking. Antarctica Explorer based on 25 November 2025 departure. Antarctica & South Georgia Island based on 10 November 2025 departure. For ‘From the Arctic to Antarctica’, Included business class flights only apply to international flights, where available, on Viking’s choice of airline and from selected major gateway cities in Australia and New Zealand. Flights are subject to availability. From the Arctic to Antarctica based on 15 September 2026 departure. Flight offers only valid if booked in conjunction with selected Expedition cruises. These offers are valid on new bookings made between 30 March and 31 May 2024 unless sold out prior. For full terms and conditions visit viking.com
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NUUP KANGERLUA FJORD, GREENLAND
INCLUDED BUSINESS CLASS AIRFARE Beechey Island Dundas Harbour Pond Bylot Island Inlet (Cape Hay)
GREENLAND
Baffin Bay
Uummannaq Ilulissat Itilleq Sismiut Kapisillit Fjord Nuuk CANADA Labrador Paamiut Sea Ivittuut Havre-Saint-PierreRed Bay St. Lawrence River Tadoussac Battle Harbour Quebec City, QC Gros Morne Trois-Rivières, QC Cap-aux-Meules, QC Louisbourg, NS Toronto, ON Lunenburg, NS USA Norfolk, VA Charleston, SC
Gulf MEXICO of Mexico Cozumel
Paci c Ocean
Ft. Lauderdale, FL Caribbean Sea
PANAMA, CENTRAL AMERICA
PANAMA Panama City (Fuerte Amador) Panama Canal ECUADOR Galápagos Islands
Manta PERU Lima (Callao) Machu Picchu
Atlantic Ocean
Iquique ARGENTINA Santiago (Valparaíso) CHILE
Puerto Chacabuco Pío XI Glacier El Brujo Glacier Agostini Glacier Garibaldi Fjord Drake Passage
Buenos Aires
Punta Arenas West Point Island South Georgia & The Sandwich Islands Port Stanley Ushuaia St. Andrew’s Bay
Point Wild, Elephant Island Half Moon Island Paulet Island ANTARCTICA Brown Bluff Weddell
Georges Point –Cruise –• Chartered Flight
ANTARCTIC PENINSULA
FROM THE ARCTIC TO ANTARCTICA
Nuuk to Ushuaia to Buenos Aires 87 DAYS | 12 COUNTRIES SET SAIL: SEP 2025; 2026 Witness stunning vistas and unique wildlife as you journey from the Earth’s far north to its extreme south. Admire Nuuk’s rugged beauty, the icy wilderness of the Canadian High Arctic and the scenic Canadian Maritimes. Navigate the striking Chilean Fjords to witness majestic glaciers before exploring the icy realm of Antarctica.
Sea
•
–• Optional Overland Excursions
•
(Additional fare applies)
•.• •.•Example •.• •.• •.• expedition •.• •.• •.• destinations • •
Canals & Locks Overnight in Port
From $125,495pp in Deluxe Nordic Balcony From $164,495pp in Nordic Junior Suite
NO KIDS | MOST AWARDED | VIKING INCLUSIVE VALUE
SAVE UP TO $4,000 PER COUPLE
Voyage
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Voyage
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Contents
Cruise
Travel
June 2024 Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au Editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Sub editor Claire Waddell Art director Catherine Martin Commercial director Phil Mahony phil@bigsplashmedia.com.au Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au Contributors and writers Tallis Boerne Marcus, Sue Bryant, Chris Caldicott, Bernadette Chua, Steph Dyson, Louise Goldsbury, Amanda Hyde, Jane Knight, Sarah Marshall, Justin Meguzzi, Hannah Meltzer, Daisy Melwani, Teresa Ooi, Aoife O’Riordan, Qin Xie Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 – Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 – International cruisepassenger.com.au Cover: Positano, Italy. Printed by IVE
cruisepassenger.com.au
MULTI MEDIA COMMUNICATIONS
Cruise & Travel magazine is published by Big Splash Media Pty Ltd, Suite G01, 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Copyright Big Splash Media Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided. Always consult your travel agent.
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37 Contents ANTARCTICA REPORT OCEANS 16 54 37 Ditch the deckchairs Upfront
High-tech travel tools; a first look at Queen Anne; and all the travel news, from hotel openings to special events in the world of cruising.
All you need to know From when to go to the best package deals, find out how to do Antarctica.
44
Spotto on ice
A guide to Antarctica’s amazing wildlife.
Review
46 A very decadent adventure
Silversea’s luxurious Antarctic Bridge trip.
The new generation of cruisers is getting younger.
Reviews
58
Spellbound at sea
Aboard Princess Cruises’ Sphere-class Sun Princess.
64 Private on the Caribbean
The small-ship delights of Emerald Sakara.
70
Disney without kids
A grown-up holiday on every child’s favourite cruise line. Cruise &Travel
5/6/2024 10:52 am
ESCAPES
Subscribe & Save
78
88
98
A calendar of the luxe holidays of the super-wealthy.
In search of rare Asiatic lions in the forests of Gujarat on a luxury stay in a new safari lodge.
A taste of riverside luxury at the Four Seasons Nile Plaza Hotel in Cairo.
Rich pickings
84
My life in travel Dame Judi Dench is left speechless by Borneo.
India’s wild west
92
Greenland journey
86
A winter trip across frozen lakes in this untouristed part of the world.
Step aboard VistaJet, the airline to the rich and famous that’s embracing inflight wellness.
Luxe-for-less express
How the super-rich beat jet lag
Walk like an Egyptian
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Gourmet dining while riding the rails on Vietnam’s first luxury train experience.
RIVER CRUISING (reverse section)
04
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Ships for all seasons
River cruising goes year-round as Australians embrace cruising in the quieter months.
Reviews
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Cruise
The Nile high club The treasures of Egypt as seen by the very few on board Uniworld’s SS Sphinx.
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Welcome
FROM THE PUBLISHER
Smart Traveller
W
elcome to the winter edition of Cruise & Travel magazine. We’ve travelled far and wide to gather enough inspiration to see you through the chilly months to come. If there is one common thread to emerge in our tales from the road, it is that today’s globetrotter needs to be smart and savvy to get the best from travelling. It’s all about maximising comfort, getting value and ensuring there is time to enjoy unique and authentic experiences – and that takes dedicated research and painstaking attention to detail. You’ll need every device at your disposal to beat the crowds and find your little piece of heaven. The good news is, today there are more devices than ever. You’ll find plenty to delight you in the coming pages, including a huge array of information to help you find that special destination at the right price and time. Take Europe – a continent that is getting a decidedly bad rap at the moment. It’s one of Australia’s favourites but it’s sagging under the weight of its own popularity. If you read the reports coming out of Amsterdam, Italy and Spain, you’d think Europeans are ready to tar and feather every tourist they find. But it’s really not like that. And to prove it, we’ve created a special magazine bringing you a brilliant compilation of where to enjoy European food and culture without the crowds – such as Calabria, on the toe of Italy, and the Calanques near Marseille. Of course, cruising is the most relaxed way to discover the many different cultures of this great continent without the heavy cost of flights, trains and road travel and the constant disruption of a new hotel every night. You’ll love our mix of Mediterranean journeys and serene river tours. We cover Antarctica, with a special report on this pristine wilderness. There are now so many lines visiting Antarctica that getting the right ship and crew is vital for a once-in-a-lifetime trip. Our report helps you pick the lines offering the best qualified guides and most purposeful experiences. We also launch the River Cruise Collective – an immersive series of articles, podcasts, videos and stories about travelling the world’s inland waterways. We’re big river cruise fans. Along with our partners, AmaWaterways, Avalon Waterways, Tauck and Uniworld, we are setting out to dispel the myths around this enormously rewarding form of holiday. CT
Land of the Sphinx
We sailed the Nile recently with Uniworld. Read all about it on page 10 in our new River Cruise Collective section starting from the back page.
To set you up for smart travel wherever you choose to journey, here are our favourite tips and tricks: 1/ Flights Never settle for a generic seat selection. Use AIpowered flight booking tools such as SeatGuru or ExpertFlyer. For example, using SeatGuru on a Boeing 777-300ER (common with many airlines) can help you avoid seats with limited recline or next to toilets.
2/ Timing If you possibly can, embrace the shoulder season. Book your European adventure in spring or autumn to enjoy pleasant weather, smaller crowds and, potentially, lower prices. We love European river cruising in April. Consider Cinque Terre in Italy in April-May, or Budapest in September when the weather is warm but the city isn’t as packed.
3/ Accommodation Skip the generic hotel experience. Platforms such as Airbnb are evolving, offering unique local home stays. Immerse yourself in the local experience by staying in a charming Marais district apartment in Paris or a restored trullo (a traditional Apulian hut) in Puglia, Italy.
Peter Lynch, Editor-in-chief and publisher 10
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SPACE SOLVES RIDDLE OF THE PYRAMIDS • The wonders of modern technology continue to find new facts about ancient monuments, solving riddles that are 4000 years old. We sailed the Nile (see page 111) with Uniworld and, like millions before us, wondered how ancient Egyptians could possibly have constructed the pyramids (aliens have been a favourite theory!). The solution does come from space. But it’s not alien. Satellite pictures show that rivers flowed past these construction giants allowing the rocks to be delivered on barges from Luxor. Researchers have even suggested a name for this river: “Ahramat”, which means pyramids in Arabic. This genuinely old man river weaved its way past dozens of pyramid sites. Many of them had causeways that end in small structures right where the riverbanks of the Ahramat branch were, suggesting these were acting as docks. Sadly, the Ahramat dried up 2000 years ago. But its discovery shows how ancient Egypt is still full of mysteries and has much still to be discovered.
4/ Food Ditch the expensive tourist traps. Research the best neighbourhoods for local cuisine. Use food-focused apps such as Resy or TheFork to find hidden gems and independent restaurants frequented by locals. You might stumble upon a ramen shop in a back alley of Tokyo’s Shinjuku district or a trendy vegetarian restaurant in a vibrant neighbourhood like Friedrichshain in Berlin. You’ll love the discovery! Cruise &Travel
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5/ Book ahead Popular museums and attractions often offer timed entries or early-access tickets. Book these in advance to avoid long queues. Imagine strolling through the Vatican Museums before the crowds arrive or exploring the breathtaking Alhambra in Granada, Spain, with just a handful of others.
6/ Use mobile wallets Ditch the bulky wallet. Many destinations are embracing contactless payment methods, allowing for Apple Pay or Google Pay to make secure and convenient payments throughout your trip, from grabbing a coffee in London to paying for your gondola ride in Venice.
7/ Pack light Avoid baggage fees and travel woes. Invest in versatile clothing that can be easily mixed and matched, such as odour-resistant merino-wool garments. Use packing cubes such as those from Eagle Creek to maximise space and stay organised. Packing light allows you to explore more freely and spontaneously.
8/ Learn a few key phrases A little goes a long way. Download a languagetranslation app for basic phrases. Even a simple “thank you” in the local tongue can go a long way with the locals you encounter. Read on through these pages, and you’ll be ready to explore the world in a smarter, savvier way…
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JOIN US ON OUR REIMAGINED SHIPS FOR A VOYAGE OF A LIFETIME DAYS ARE SPENT IMMERSED IN THE WORLD’S MOST BREATHTAKING DESTINATIONS, WHILE EVENINGS ARE ELEGANT AFFAIRS FILLED WITH FINE-DINING, ENTERTAINMENT, AND CAPTIVATING COMPANY. STEP ABOARD AND BE WARMLY WELCOMED INTO A WORLD OF COMFORT AND SOPHISTICATION. FOR RESERVATIONS OR INFORMATION, CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR, VISIT CRYSTALCRUISES.COM OR CALL 1300-503-640. PART OF ABERCROMBIE & KENT TRAVEL GROUP.
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Upfront | Inspiration for today’s sophisticated traveller |
page
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Six Senses Kyoto
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Trends
Travel
trends
Welcome to an era of high-tech travel, writes Peter Lynch.
t
hanks to a partnership between Meta and Ray-Ban, a new pair of sunnies means you can now take family and friends on holiday with you. In fact, they will see everything you do – with you as commentator. The company that owns Facebook, Instagram and WhatsApp has integrated hands-free video calling through WhatsApp and Messenger and video enabled through the lenses of the glasses. They are built with an ultra-wide 12-megapixel camera, speakers and five microphones, allowing users to take photos and videos that are automatically saved to their connected smartphones. Artificial intelligence (AI) will answer questions about what the user can see. Oh, and 14
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if you’re not sure what you are looking at on the short walk to the Colosseum, the glasses can give you the answer in text or audio. If you’re in Rome at a café with only Italian menus, the glasses can translate the name of your favourite pasta dish. Or make a recommendation. In case you think this is all a bit like a sciencefiction movie, these glasses can be bought right now for $489 at Just Sunnies. It’s all a long way from Maxwell Smart’s shoe phone. Welcome to the new world of travel, where today’s global adventurer is armed with an arsenal of digital tools that transform every stage of the journey, from planning and booking to experiencing a destination.
“In case you think this is all a bit like a science-fiction movie, these glasses can be bought right now.” Want to plan a family holiday or tour with a group of friends? Google’s Gemini can map out a customised itinerary, allowing for your personal preferences and whether any member of your party has special needs such as accessibility. Need to change the dates? No problem – it will reschedule everything and check availability. Cruise &Travel
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Our personal favourites These breakthroughs represent the tip of the technological iceberg reshaping travel. Here are some new-tech gadgets we are using.
deciphering, making communication in unfamiliar destinations a breeze.
• AI-powered language translation: Language barriers are a thing of the past with AI translators such as Google Translate. These tools enable real-time conversation and menu
• Wearable tech: Fitness trackers like Fitbits can double as pedometers while exploring new cities, while smartwatches with built-in GPS maps can help you navigate unfamiliar streets.
• Smart luggage: Luggage is no longer a passive bystander. Smart suitcases with built-in GPS tracking and self-weighing capabilities provide peace of mind and prevent lost baggage woes.
Your local travel agent now has AI-powered booking engines such as Kayak and Skyscanner, which can analyse massive datasets of flights, hotels and attractions. They personalise search results based on your preferences, past travel behaviour and budget, suggesting deals and itineraries optimised to your travel style. You don’t even have to type commands. Voice-searches such as Google Assistant and Siri help travellers find hotels and activities using natural-language commands. Chatbots powered by AI are also changing the game, offering 24/7 virtual travel concierge services. From answering questions about visa requirements to booking last-minute tours, chatbots can provide seamless, personalised assistance. Cruise&Travel
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And the planning process has become much more precise – and fun. Imagine exploring the Colosseum in Rome or scaling the Great Wall of China before you even leave your home. AR and VR technologies are blurring the lines between reality and travel. AR apps such as Google Lens can overlay real-time information on landmarks at which you point your phone, translating signs and providing historical context. VR experiences allow you to virtually explore destinations, giving you a taste of the sights and sounds before you commit to a trip. Smartphones have become the ultimate travel companion. Apps such as TripIt consolidate all your travel bookings (flights, hotels, tours) in one place, providing effortless itinerary
• Travel apps for every need: There’s an app for everything these days, and travel is no exception. From currency converters and restaurantreservation apps to city guides that curate must-see sights based on your location, your app store offers solutions for every travel need.
management. Mobile wallets such as Apple Pay and Google Pay facilitate secure and contactless payments around the world, eliminating the need to carry cash or worry about currency exchange. Platforms such as Airbnb and Uber offer a more affordable and authentic way to experience new destinations. Airbnb connects travellers with unique and often budgetfriendly accommodation options, while Uber provides convenient and reliable transportation in cities across the globe. Of course, if you’re signed up as a member of the digital-detox travel tribe, then all of this is definitely not your cup of tea. But for the rest of us, it’s a whole new trouble-free world. CT 15
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Upfront
/ Private adventure
A
bercrombie & Kent has unveiled its latest ultra-exclusive adventure holiday, Wildlife Adventure by Land & Sea: Around the World by Private Jet. Scheduled for 19 May to 11 June 2025, it begins in Maui with a stay at the luxurious Four Seasons Resort at Wailea. There are numerous wildlife encounters on land and underwater on the itinerary, including: swimming among World War II relics and non-stinging jellyfish off Palau; a visit to an Indonesian sanctuary to see the endangered Sumatran rhino; a river boat safari in search of the gharial crocodile in Nepal; entry to a sloth sanctuary in Panama; and a safari in Etosha National Park, Namibia. The trip visits eight destinations over 24 days, with just 48 guests travelling via first-class private jet, and costs from $257,000 per person.
VIKINGS ON SAFARI
• Viking, the thinking-person’s cruise line, is considering a move into tours and holidays, including safaris, to further broaden its appeal. The move follows the raising of billions of dollars after a successful float on the New York stock exchange. The company already sails 92 vessels and has 24 new ships on order – 18 new river vessels and six new ocean vessels – with options for 12 more ships. Expect to see more Australians, New Zealanders, Indians and Southeast Asians on board your next Viking cruise as the company expands its market reach. Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen revealed: “We are exploring other products, such as safaris and land tours, that would allow our guests to explore more of the world in Viking comfort.”
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/ More French in French Polynesia
F
• Scenic Group YACHT has unveiled its LIFE next-generation
rench luxury brand Ponant will reposition one of its latest innovative ships, Le Jacques-Cartier, to French Polynesia from September 2026, joining MS Paul Gauguin which has been sailing the region for more than 25 years. Le Jacques-Cartier’s point of difference will be a more in-depth expedition experience of the region’s marine life and nature reserves. The cruises will be accompanied by a team of naturalist guides who will lead guests on Zodiac tours. The ship has a multi-sensory underwater lounge and has been designed to be environmentally friendly. Le Jacques-Cartier’s marina and semi-submerged platform provides easy access for swimming, kayaking and paddleboarding. The 92-cabin ship will sail the region for six months, until March 2027.
luxury ocean yacht, which will set sail in April 2026. The 120-metre Emerald Kaia will accommodate 128 guests and introduce a suite of innovations that underscores Emerald Cruises’ pioneering spirit in luxury yacht cruising. The Sky Deck has been expanded, incorporating a new internal Sky Lounge and private cabanas, so guests can have a luxurious open-air experience with expansive panoramic views from the top deck. The larger Observation Sun Deck on the bow now offers a Spa Pool and sun lounges, complementing the existing Observation Lounge. Emerald Kaia also offers a larger terrace for guests to enjoy al fresco dining at La Cucina, while the new Night Market is an Asian-style grill concept for up to eight guests. Emerald Kaia will cruise the Mediterranean, Adriatic and Aegean, as well as the Seychelles, from April 2026.
/ Seabourn’s Indigenous partnership
W
hen Seabourn Pursuit arrives in the Kimberley, the Wunambal Gaambera people will be appointed godparents of the expedition vessel. In a move to honour Australia’s First Nations people, Seabourn will be the first cruise line to appoint Traditional Owners as godparents of a ship. As part of the partnership, Seabourn will support the Wunambal Gaambera to develop a self-sustaining industry. Indigenous artists will produce art to sell and Seabourn will also supply the Wunambal Gaambera Aboriginal Corporation with pearl shells, art supplies and polishing materials to foster sustainable, commercial art-and-crafts initiatives year-round. Seabourn intends to work alongside the Traditional Owners as they share their Uunguu Experience through welcome and smoking ceremonies, rock art tours, and junba song and dance. Cruise&Travel
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Reader Competition
WIN BIG with Sun Princess
You can win a $6608 cruise + flight package Enter now at cruisepassenger.com.au And you can get great deals on Sun Princess cruises, including extra value. See princess.com
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Introducing
Sun Princess
®
Sun Princess is our largest-ever ship and accommodates 4,300 guests and boasts stunning views, innovative entertainment venues, multi-storey dining rooms and next level stateroom accommodations. Sun Princess is sailing now for an inaugural season in the Mediterranean followed by Western and Eastern Caribbean voyages.
BOOK NOW | Visit your travel agent | 1300 159 654 | princess.com
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Collaboration
REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES®
A LIFE OF LUXURY AT SEA
Live in elevated elegance for a world cruise across 140 nights on Seven Seas Splendor™, writes Teresa Ooi.
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or almost five months of the year, you can transport yourself into a world of sheer indulgence when you embark Seven Seas Splendor for the ship’s first world cruise. Over 140 nights in 2027 you can live a life of luxury on one of the world’s most lavish ocean cruise line’s newest Explorer-class ships, Seven Seas Splendor. Be prepared to be amazed as you cruise to 71 exotic ports across the Caribbean, the Pacific Islands, Australia, New Zealand, Asia, Africa and Europe. You will be spoilt for choice as you explore over 480 shore excursions – included in your all-inclusive voyage. You will also overnight in 14 destinations giving you extra time to get to know the city, culture and locals. And you will also relish the experience of visiting 73 UNESCO World Heritage sites. Your world voyage will commence in Miami on 11 January 2027. As Seven Seas Splendor makes its way to New York, you will cover 35,668 nautical miles to reach 40 countries across six continents. Travelling with no more than 746 guests, you will reap the benefits of Unrivalled Space at Sea™ with one of the highest space-to-guest ratios and be professionally served by 548 trained crew members who have fine-tuned their skills to meet your every whim and fancy. / Dining is an art form With nine exquisite dining options, including five complimentary speciality restaurants, you will be spoilt for choice. Plus, there’s 24-hour in-suite service. You can choose from the ship’s main dining restaurant, Compass Rose, where
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you can customise your meal every single night of the journey; Pacific Rim, the dramatic Pan-Asian restaurant with a mythical dragon entrance; Prime 7, an intimate and tasteful steakhouse; Chartreuse, which focuses on classic French fare with a twist; and Sette Mari at La Veranda, serving authentic Italian specialities in a glamorous, over-the-water alcove seating. There’s also the Culinary Arts Kitchen with 18 cooking stations for hands-on gourmet cooking classes taught by chefs well-schooled in the art of teaching. Over 140 nights, Seven Seas Splendor will be stocked with 5800kg of lobster, 6350kg of filet mignon, 1630kg of smoked salmon and 68kg of caviar. To complement every meal, the ship will also have 58,000 bottles of fine wine, some 200 varieties including 14,000 bottles of Champagne. You will never go hungry or thirsty on your world cruise. Every guest will be entitled to included speciality dining, premium beverages including fine wines and spirits, and unlimited WiFi. Seven Seas Splendor has 16 suite categories from which you can pick a suite that meets your every requirement. At least 373 suites have some of the largest balconies at sea. The beautifully appointed suites range from 28.5-squaremetre Veranda Suite to a lavish 412.8-square-metre Regent Suite – one of the largest suites ever built on a luxury cruise ship and more than three times the average size of a Sydney apartment. It’s also the most expensive, and naturally is perched on Deck 14 with unobstructed 270-degree views over the ship’s bow, a 120-square-metre wraparound veranda and a glass-enclosed solarium offering a “captain’s view” as you arrive in port. It is the Most Exclusive Address At Sea™ and home to an in-suite spa retreat with a personal sauna, steam room and jacuzzi. Residents also have access to a personal butler, a full bar which is replenished daily, and a private car and driver in every port. Works of art include an original Picasso adorning the walls; a custom Steinway Grand Baroque Piano by Dakota Jackson; a hand-crafted Hastens Vividus mattress worth over $300,000; finest bedlinen and a pillow menu; and your choice of Guerlain, Acqua di Parma and L’Occitane soaps, shampoos and lotions. Fares for the 2027 World Cruise start from $134,030 per guest for a Veranda Suite up to $1.251 million per person for the opulent Regent Suite. For those wanting a slightly shorter journey, you can sail a 126-night Miami to Rome leg with fares ranging from $122,090 per person up to $1.123m. CT
Shore excursion highlights
In all its Splendor
Clockwise, from above left: In-suite butler service; bar at Chartreuse; dining at Pacific Rim; visit Singapore's Gardens by the Bay and Petra in Jordan on the 2027 World Cruise; Regent Suite bedroom, Seven Seas Splendor.
PANAMA CITY 25 January 2027 Dance to the infectious rhythms of live entertainment Carnival-style at this special event. COLOMBO 9 April 2027 Join in the bustling atmosphere of a street festival, sample local delicacies and watch a captivating cultural show for a glimpse at authentic Sri Lankan life. MALAGA 22 May 2027 Immerse yourself in the glamorous Roaring Twenties at this exclusive event. You’ll be transported to an era of elegance, glitz and glamour with a show that will bring the 1920s to life. • UNESCO World Heritage sites visited include Coiba National Park, Panama City; Kakadu National Park, Darwin; Singapore Botanic Gardens; Elephanta Caves, Mumbai; and the Palmeral of Elche, Alicante.
Reservations for 2027’s “World of Splendor” world cruise opened in April. You can also call 1300 455 200 or visit RSSC.com/2027-World-Cruise for more details. Cruise&Travel
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COMING SOON to a port near you
• Royal Caribbean has revealed a round of shorter itineraries for the 2025/26 Australian summer season along with the debut of Anthem of the Seas in Sydney and the arrival of Voyager of the Seas at its new home in Brisbane. The ships will replace Ovation and Quantum of the Seas and will sail between November 2025 and April 2026. Anthem of the Seas is the latest ship from Royal Caribbean to make its debut here. There are 45 itineraries, ranging from two to 18 nights, across New Zealand, Australia and the South Pacific. There are five short coastal cruises ranging two to four nights and a five-night Hobart trip. There are also longer nine to 12-night cruises to New Zealand, including a pair of festive sailings for Christmas and New Year celebrations.
/ George Clooney,
eat your heart out
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ake Como’s Grand Hotel Victoria Concept & Spa has reopened for the European summer with new food and beverage offerings. Located in Menaggio on the lake’s western shore, the property has unveiled two new restaurants and a new culinary director at the helm. The two dining venues will be led by Chef Maichol Morandi who combines gastronomic flair with Italian tradition and history.
Restaurant 1827 is a fine dining concept which has two sevencourse tasting menus (choose from vegetarian or contemporary), representing the seven deadly sins. The abstract dishes are melded with elements of Asian cookery, such as the triple-cooked eel with soy caramel, white polenta and rocket. After a massive renovation, the hotel will open the Victoria Lido Beach club in July. It features a private sandy beach, a pool, direct access to lake swimming, sunbathing spots, exclusive sun gazebos, and a bar and lounge area.
AMAN’S YACHT
• Luxury hotel brand Aman has started construction of its first-ever yacht, holding a traditional steel-cutting ceremony at the T. Mariotti shipyard in Genoa, Italy. The luxury yacht, which is a joint venture with Cruise Saudi, is anticipated to launch in 2027. At 183 metres, the vessel will have 50 spacious luxury suites, each with private balcony. There will be an array of dining options, including an informal all-day restaurant and a relaxed club and lounge. Plus there’s the spacious Aman Spa, complete with Japanese garden; two helipads; and, at the stern of the yacht, an expansive Beach Club with direct access to the water for guests. The keel laying is expected to take place this summer.
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INDIA YOUR WAY ABERCROMBIE & KENT
Immerse yourself in India’s colourful culture on Tailor-Made Journeys with Abercrombie & Kent.
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ndia’s rich tapestry of culture, colour and history has enthralled curious travellers for centuries. From the spice-laden markets to bustling cities and grandiose palaces, the intrigue and charm lie in the contrasts of this culturally rich and fascinating country. One of India’s most famed states is Rajasthan – where desert dunes, lush jungles and dreamy lakes set the scene for shimmering saris, coloured turbans and stately forts. Here, each city is bathed in its own unique splash of paint: Jaipur in soft pinks, Jodhpur in sky blues and romantic Udaipur in opal whites. Venture a little further and you’ll find the sacred city of Varanasi, where pilgrims flock to bathe in the River Ganges, and the colonial beauty of Old Delhi, with its maze-like bazaars. / Tailor-Made Journeys with A&K Imagine a holiday in India that’s perfectly suited to you. One that matches your interests and style, and that you’ve had a hand in designing. This is an A&K Tailor-Made Journey, and it comes with the added benefit of private guides, drivers and vehicles for the duration of your journey. A&K’s Tailor-Made Journeys provide the perfect option for those wanting to travel privately with friends or family. Select a suggested itinerary or custom design your own as A&K wraps you in a cocoon of comfort with handpicked luxury accommodation, exclusive access and authentic travel experiences.
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• SPLENDOURS OF RAJASTHAN
India’s treasures
Clockwise, from above: The wonder of the Taj Mahal; a Ganges boat trip, Varanasi; Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur; welcome to Jaipur.
9 days from $6,610 per person Step back into a bygone era of emperors and princes in royal Rajasthan. Discover Delhi’s colonial grandeur and delectable cuisine. Be awestruck by the perfect symmetry and marbled elegance of the iconic Taj Mahal. Drink in the dusky magnificence of Jaipur’s City Palace and hillside Amber Fort. Savour a sunset across the exquisite lake palaces of Udaipur, India’s most romantic city. Live like a maharaja in India’s most regal hotels. This is an enchanting encounter with India at its most majestic.
• THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE & BEYOND
12 days from $10,520 per person Experience a spellbinding world of colour, rituals and wildlife on this comprehensive journey through India’s north. Witness the scale and grandeur of Delhi’s heritage sites. Be humbled by the Taj Mahal. Step inside temples and palaces for a glimpse of contrasting cultures. Seek out the majestic tiger in Ranthambore National Park. And discover the perfect harmony of chaos and serenity in the sacred city of Varanasi. CT Book your Tailor-Made Journey to India now. To find out more, visit abercrombiekent.com.au, phone 1300 851 800, or contact your travel advisor.
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/ Making Senses in Kyoto
L
uxury hotel and resort group Six Senses has opened its first property in Kyoto, Japan. Nestled among tea shops and temples, the property is close to major sites such as the Kyoto National Museum and the Sanjusangen-do Buddhist Temple. Spread across six-storeys, the hotel has 81 guest rooms and suites. The décor draws heavily on Japanese traditions and has been inspired by local stories and folklore. At the heart of the property is the Six Senses Spa, which blends traditional healing practices with Japanese Zen culture. The hotel has a multi-sensory sushi counter, an omakase experience and a brew bar that has locally sourced whiskey, sake and Japanese beer.
/ A Spirit to move you
P
onant has added a French-built 24-metre maxi-catamaran with six staterooms to its fleet, carrying up to 12 guests and four crew, including a chef. Launched in June, The Spirt of Ponant will spend the summer in Corsica, France, then head to the Seychelles for winter 2025. The itinerary is based on the captain’s recommendations and what the guests would like to do. Ponant dining, wine cellar, signature cocktails, room service and nautical activities, such as paddleboarding, wakeboarding and snorkelling, are all included in the price of the cruise.
• New details have been revealed about the sumptuous new as-yet-unnamed Four Seasons yacht. The 14-deck luxury vessel is partly modelled on Aristotle Onassis’ iconic yacht, Christina O. According to Four Seasons, the guest suites will have 50 per cent more living space than any other competitor – each will have floor-to-ceiling windows, large closets and double vanities. But the Funnel Suite, which spans four floors, will have three bedrooms and a terrace with splash pool and outdoor showers. In April, the hotel-and-resort brand revealed renderings of the 95 spacious suites. The yacht will launch in January 2026 and head to the Caribbean on seven-night island-hopping itineraries to St. Barts, the Grenadines, Barbados, Martinique and more. The yacht will then head to the Mediterranean.
A yacht for FOUR SEASONS
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Royal Caribbean’s HOT POTATO • Royal Caribbean is bringing the Wiggles on board. In the summer of 2025-2026, families and Wiggles enthusiasts will be able to embark on exclusive Wiggles Sailings. Imagine beloved characters such as Captain Feathersword, Dorothy the Dinosaur, Henry the Octopus, Wags the Dog and Shirley Shawn the Unicorn stealing the spotlight aboard Royal Caribbean’s luxurious ships, as families embark on island-hopping adventures from Sydney to Brisbane. From character events and live concerts to exclusive merchandise, families gearing up for the ultimate Wiggly adventure are in for a host of treats.
/ She has survived
T
he Queen of Disco, Gloria Gaynor, will hit the high notes of her anthem “I Will Survive” when she joins Crystal Serenity on a sailing from Quebec City to Fort Lauderdale on October 26, accompanied by her 10-piece band. “Music has the power to bring people together and I am honoured to share my passion with the discerning guests of Crystal,” says Gaynor, whose impressive career spans more than four decades. Besides her electrifying performance, Gaynor will also participate in an intimate Q&A session with booked guests. The 14-night sailing will cruise down the east coast of North America with overnight stays in Boston and New York City. There will also be stops in Nassau before disembarking at Fort Lauderdale.
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CRYSTAL
One for the EXPLORERS
Book early and save on Crystal’s 2025 Cruise Voyages.
W
e all know the quiet joy of having a holiday to look forward to. Now luxury cruise line Crystal is rewarding travellers who plan ahead with special bonus savings of up to 20% on its Explorer Fares. Designed for the early booker, the Explorer Fare provides the opportunity for guests who book at least 12 months in advance to receive up to 20% off the price of their cruise voyage when paying the non-refundable rate upfront. For those who prefer the flexibility of a refundable rate, a saving of 10% will apply. Crystal offers an inspiring line-up of 2025 itineraries to both iconic and off-the-beatenpath destinations across the globe. Following the brand’s acquisition by the A&K Travel Group, guests can enjoy unparalleled opportunities for exploration and cultural immersion – both on and off the ship. In 2025, Crystal’s refurbished ships Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony will visit an extraordinary selection of favourite ports and approximately 144 new handpicked destinations including the Faroe Islands, Palawan, Shanghai, Santorini and the Dominican Republic. Over 720
Looking ahead to a 2025 cruise
From top: Aboard Crystal; Sapphire Veranda Suite on Crystal Serenity; Santorini; the Dominican Republic.
in Dubrovnik for some Game of Thrones glamour. Sail on for three days in Venice, before heading back through Croatia to Corfu. A sea day brings you to an Italian finale with Lipari, an overnight in Sorrento, Amalfi and Rome. From AU$16,590 per person on an Explorer Fare (was AU$20,250pp)
days and on 73 sailings, the elegant ships will visit 112 countries and 281 ports. On board, enjoy stunning views of the ocean, plush suites and attentive service from your personal butler, while off board, choose from an impressive selection of optional shore experiences in each port. / Athens (Piraeus) to Rome (Civitavecchia) Departing on 20 August 2025, cruise over 21 nights aboard Crystal Symphony between two behemoth Mediterranean ports. Sailing from Athens, you’ll go first to Nafplion and Crete, before a sea day brings you to Italy’s Bari. Montenegro’s Kotor is next, before an overnight
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/ Reykjavik to Oslo Departing on 14 August 2025, embark on a captivating 14-night voyage aboard Crystal Serenity. After departing Reykjavik, explore Isafjordur and Akureyri, where the striking Icelandic landscapes reveal their pristine beauty. Enjoy two sea days before an overnight in Longyearbyen – gateway to the Arctic – with ample time to explore Svalbard’s rugged wilderness. Sail next to North Cape, then the unique fjordic vistas of Leknes and Bergen. Disembark in Oslo. From AU$12,180 per person on an Explorer Fare (was AU$14,900pp) CT For more information, contact your travel advisor, visit crystalcruises.com or call 1800 841 781. Cruise &Travel
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SECRET of the MALDIVES
• The Maldives has a new luxury property – Soneva Secret has started to welcome guests to Haa Dhaalu Atoll. It’s the first resort on the atoll and the property features 14 stunning overwater and island villas as well as the Maldives’ only floating villa, the Castaway. Each villa has a team of three people to take care of guests, including a Barefood Guardian, Barefoot Assistant and a chef. In the food
and beverage area, the dedicated private chefs will create menus that incorporate cuisines from around the world. Menus are also paired by master sommeliers. And for those who want to do some wine tasting, a winery in the lagoon is reachable by zipline. There is also a wide array of experiences like swimming with manta rays and turtles, sunset dolphin cruises, a castaway picnic and a marine biology and dive centre. But it won’t come cheap – prices start from US$3300 ($4925) per night.
/ Princess levels up
P
rincess has introduced a new exclusive area called the Sanctuary Collection. It will debut in October on Sun Princess, and be offered on Star Princess in 2025. Guests in Sanctuary Suites, Mini-Suites or Balcony cabins will have exclusive access to the ship’s top-deck retreat area as well as a host of extra high-end amenities. This includes private dining and relaxation areas, luxurious stateroom experiences like butler service and the Princess Premier package. The luxurious, spa-inspired, top-deck Sanctuary Club is accessed by Sanctuary Collection guests via their Princess Medallion. In the adults-only area, guests enjoy plush lounges, private cabanas, pool and jacuzzi, attentive service, drinks and light fare. The Club also hosts exclusive programs, including sunrise yoga and sail-away receptions.
FULL STEAM ahead
• Known for its wind-class motor-sailing ships, Windstar announced earlier this year it would be expanding its fleet with two more motor-driven vessels. The new Star Seeker and Star Explorer will be smaller than the other ships in the luxury fleet, and will have capacity for just 224 passengers. Star Seeker is under construction now at the West Sea shipyard in Portugal and will deliver at the end of 2025, with Star Explorer following one year behind. The two new builds will free up the sailequipped Wind Star to return to Tahiti in 2027; it is currently alternating between Europe and the Caribbean. Cruise&Travel
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OCEANIA CRUISES
Lure of the Mediterranean
Fine food, delicious wine and chic cities are calling cruisers to this long-time favourite region.
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ustralians love to cruise the Mediterranean, immersing themselves in its unrivalled culture, fabulous food and smooth wines. And an everincreasing number of well-travelled Aussies are heading to the region, especially in spring, summer and autumn months, to experience a way of life they aspire to. Now, they can travel with the world’s leading culinary- and destination-focused cruise line,
Oceania Cruises, whisking them away to some of the most breathtaking cities in Europe. Oceania Cruises has recalibrated its itineraries and will debut an array of new Mediterranean sailings on Marina and Nautica that sail to iconic islands and well-loved resort towns on voyages ranging from nine to 56 days. Come next year, Oceania Cruises will offer 16 additional voyages, with the two newly refurbished
ships cruising to lively jet-set resort towns such as Monte Carlo, Cannes, Positano and Sorrento, as well as hidden gems, including: Tirana and Sarande in Albania; Trapani in Sicily; Calvi and Propriano in Corsica; and Sibenik in Croatia. How exotic is that? Because of Oceania Cruises’ small group sizes and immersive shore excursions, travellers can rediscover previously visited destinations through a new lens.
In Santorini, go on a tour of the island’s active volcanoes, and in Montenegro, experience a new side of Kotor by visiting Europe’s southernmost fjord, Boka Bay. “With shore excursions to inspire everyone, from active adventurous types to history buffs to foodies, our small luxurious ships are the perfect way to discover this majestic region of the world,” said Frank A. Del Rio, President of Oceania Cruises. CT
Into the blue
Mykonos farewells Oceania Cruises after a visit to the Greek port. Above: Oceania Cruises’ Culinary Discovery Tour.
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Oceania Cruises’ 2025 Mediterranean itineraries CRUISES ON MARINA
The 1238-guest Marina will be extensively refurbished this year to add three new dining venues – Aquamar Kitchen, a wellness-inspired restaurant, and an al fresco evening-only Pizzeria, serving glorious Italian dishes with stunning sea views. There will also be an expanded poolside ice-cream parlour serving favourite flavours, including options from award-winning artisan ice cream company Humphry Slocombe. The ship’s public areas will be refreshed, while all Penthouse Suites and bathrooms will be updated.
Barcelona to Athens: A 9-day
voyage departing 26 May 2025. Starting in Barcelona, Marina will call at Valletta, Rhodes, Ephesus, overnight in Istanbul, Mitilini and
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Athens. Fares start from $4570 per person.
Istanbul to Athens: An 11-day
journey onboard Marina, departing 16 October 2025. Your holiday kicks off with an overnight stay in Istanbul followed by Pergamum, Bodrum, Ephesus, Santorini, Rhodes, Limassol, Marmaris, Heraklion, Mykonos and Athens. Fares start from $5560 per person.
Athens to Santa Cruz de Tenerife: A 21-day cruise
departing 27 October 2025. Marina will visit Athens, Split, Kotor, Corfu, Katakolon, Messina (Sicily), Valletta, Tunis, Palma de Mallorca, Barcelona, Malaga, Seville (Cadiz), Casablanca, Agadir, Arrecife (Lanzarote), Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Funchal (Madeira), Santa Cruz de la Palma and Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
CRUISES ON NAUTICA
The beautiful Nautica accommodates just 670 guests served by 400 crew members. The ship has a residential feel with decks made of the finest teak. Nautica has four restaurants, the Aquamar Spa, and eight lounges and bars.
Istanbul to Athens: A 12-day
cruise departing 27 July 2025. Nautica will visit Istanbul, Pergamum (Dikili), Izmir, Samos, Bodrum, Rhodes, Antalya, Alanya, Limassol, Kos, Heraklion, Santorini and Athens. Fares start from $6040 per person.
Athens to Rome: A 14-day
cruise departing 8 August 2025. Nautica will visit Athens, Dubrovnik, Kotor, Bari, Valletta, Tunis, Trapani (Sicily), Porto Cervo (Sardinia), Propriano (Corsica), Monte Carlo,
Portofino, Florence/Pisa/ Tuscany (Livorno) and Rome. Fares start from $6900 per person.
Athens to Valletta: A 14-day
cruise departing 11 September 2025. Nautica will be sailing to Athens, Mykonos, Mitilini (Lesbos), Bozcaada (Troy), overnight in Istanbul, Ephesus (Kusadasi), Marmaris, Antalya, Limassol, Rhodes, Santorini, Heraklion (Crete) and Valletta. Fares start from $6880 per person.
GRAND VOYAGES
Marina and Nautica will be offering a variety of Grand Voyages in the Mediterranean, ranging from 22 to 56 days.
Istanbul to Barcelona: A
22-day voyage onboard Marina departing 16 October 2025 for a variety
of ports in Turkey, Greece, Croatia, Italy, Malta, Tunisia and Spain. Fares start from $10,420 per person.
Venice to Rome: A 36-day cruise onboard Nautica departing 17 July 2025 for Italy, Croatia, Greece, Turkey, Cyprus, Croatia, Malta, Tunisia and France. Fares start from $16,430 per person. Rome to Miami: A 56-day
Grand Voyage onboard Marina departing 4 October 2025 and visiting Italy, Malta, Greece, Turkey, Croatia, Italy, Tunisia, Spain, Morocco, Barbados, Antigua, Puerto Rico and Miami. Fares start from $23,690 per person. For more information, visit oceaniacruises.com, call 1300 355 200 or speak to a professional travel advisor.
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MEMBERS ONLY
• Luxury hotel group Red Carnation has opened its first property in Scotland, 100 Princes Street. Formerly the headquarters of the Royal Overseas League, the hotel is close to Scotland’s National Gallery and opposite Edinburgh Castle. Styled after a private members’ club, the 30room property celebrates all things Scottish. The décor honours Scottish explorers and botanists, and local artists were commissioned for the custom-made furnishings, fabrics and artworks. There are two signature suites, The Archibald and The Isobel, named after Scottish explorers Archibald Menzies and Isobel Wylie Hutchison. Tailored adventures for guests include making Scottish gins and fishing on the River Tweed.
VENICE’S new tourist tax starts
• From May this year, Venice has applied its tourist tax for people visiting for the day. It will cost €5 ($8) per person, and the new system issues a QR code upon payment. Those travelling directly to the ‘minor islands’ like Burano and Murano will not be charged and people staying in the city overnight will also be excused. However, those exempt from the fee must still register their trip online. You could face a fine of between €50 and €300 if you don’t pay up. Officials will be carrying out random checks for QR codes.
/ A hole in one
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new ultra-luxury golf resort is slated to open in the Italian region of Puglia in 2027, just moments away from its iconic beaches. La Maviglia resort in the Primitivo wine region will span a 202-hectare estate and feature a restored 16th-century Masseria as the clubhouse alongside the main hotel, villas and a world-class golf course. There will be 70 individual suites, as well as a 20-room golfer’s lodge and 35 expansive villas at the golf complex. Four restaurants are being built as well as a 5000-square-metre wellness centre and medical spa. 30
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EMERALD CRUISES
A taste of the Caribbean
Embark on a luxury, island-hopping yacht cruise with Emerald Cruises.
F
ramed by mainland USA and South America, it’s no wonder the Caribbean is the world’s most popular cruise destination. Under clear blue skies, the Caribbean Sea’s myriad of islands are blessed with picture-perfect white sand beaches and crystalline turquoise waters, home to technicoloured marine life and vivid reefs. A tropical paradise, even better explored by luxury yacht. Amazingly, each of these predominately island nations differ, with natural wonders ranging from dramatic volcanic lands to jungle-shrouded mountains and diverse cultural legacies – notably, African and European. Discover fascinating colonial heritage, pirate folklore and a delicious fusion of global and indigenous cuisines. Everywhere, however, you’ll be immersed in a Caribbean lifestyle that is seductively laid-back, helped along by the world-famous local rum.
/ Island hopping in luxury For the ultimate Caribbean adventure, set sail on an Emerald Cruises luxury yacht. As you island hop across the sparkling Caribbean Sea, you’ll relish the fabulous small-ship cruise experience in unrivalled comfort and style, nimbly accessing smaller ports and exclusive anchorage spots that larger vessels can’t. With just 100 guests and an
This is the life
Clockwise, from right: The pool on board Emerald Sakara; kayaking off the ship in St. Lucia.
abundance of space to relax, this almost feels like your own private superyacht. With a season spanning November to March, Emerald Cruises’ exciting Caribbean itineraries focus on the cluster of southern and easterly islands, renowned as some of the region’s most diverse and enthralling. Explore at leisure charming Caribbean favourites and uncover hidden gems, far from the madding crowds. / Paradise found The popular 8-day ‘Eastern Caribbean with St. Barths’ delivers awe-inspiring island highlights and the warmest of welcomes. From beloved Barbados and its stunning string of beaches, explore ‘ultimate paradise archipelago’ Tobago Cays and its sand-bottomed, aquamarine waters teeming with sea turtles, and French St. Barths, a chic island adored by the rich and famous.
Marvel at mountainous St. Lucia, where you’ll enjoy a therapeutic mud bath within an active volcano and admire the iconic ‘Piton’ lava spires from the deck. For an extended yachting adventure, choose the 15-day ‘Discover Eastern Caribbean & Grenadines’, where even more dreamy experiences cover idyllic hideaway islands with pristine, powdery white sand beaches. Beautiful, uninhabited Prickly Pear Cays, rarely featured on cruise itineraries, and Bequia, Mayreau and Union islands, embedded in the breathtaking Grenadines archipelago will mesmerise you. Indulge in relaxed Caribbean living, close encounters with giant rays and private barbecues on secluded beaches. / Generous inclusions Anchored most days in picturesque bays, there’s ample opportunity to swim off the innovative Marina Platform, enjoying complimentary use of the aquatic toys such as Seabobs and inflatable kayaks, and admiring legendary Caribbean sunsets from the Sky Deck’s bar. All this, plus generous inclusions covering meals and complimentary drinks, selected shore excursions, Wi-Fi, gratuities, transfers and more. CT / 2026 bookings open Find your next unforgettable yacht cruise to the Caribbean or Mediterranean with Emerald Cruises. Cruise from $5595 per person for the 8-day ‘Eastern Caribbean with St. Barths’ departing 22 November 2025. Cruises for 2026 are also available to book now. For more information, visit emeraldcruises.com.au or call 1300 286 110.
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f you’re a die-hard Cunard fan, buckle up for the ride. While there’s plenty that’s familiar on Queen Anne – a four-tiered class system with corresponding restaurants, a Golden Lion pub, ballroom dancing in the Queens Room, dainty afternoon tea – there’s a whole lot that’s new. For example, you’ll find a vast, airy yoga space above the main pool. And you’ll also find a café doing poke bowls and fresh pressed juices. There’s a paddle tennis and pickleball court, a sushi bar and a deluxe vintage fashion outlet. These are all features with Gen X and millennial appeal, some distance from Cunard’s traditionally more mature market. The ship’s design team paid multiple visits to the Liverpool-based Cunard Archives. It’s a treasure trove of photography and artefacts from the shipping line’s past. Queen Anne is the 249th ship in Cunard’s 184-year-long history. The team has taken inspiration from the Art Deco style, with both subtle and bold statement design touches everywhere. The Grand Lobby has etched brass pillars, a domed ceiling and a sweeping staircase on which to make an entrance. My Queens Grill cabin, done out in cool greys and blues with pops of gold, has some covetable objets d’art including a ship model in glass (glued down) and a bold geometric design in the black and white marble bathroom. Everybody is talking about the double-height Britannia restaurant, with soaring gold columns and floor-to-ceiling windows. The Chart Room
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ALL HAIL THE QUEEN Cunard’s new Queen Anne has launched in Southampton to much fanfare. And she’s quite the departure from the traditional style of her three sisters, writes Sue Bryant. lounge, looking down into the Grand Lobby, is fabulously over the top, with a red marble bar surrounded by glittering shards of glass. The layout of the ship isn’t like other Cunarders; I didn’t feel the flow between the public spaces was particularly intuitive. For example, to get to the Britannia Restaurant, you have to pass through the long, skinny Clarendon Fine Art gallery. A limited-edition Banksy in here might catch your eye – yours for a cool £125,000 (AU$237,200). Cruise &Travel
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Going contemporary
Clockwise, from above: The large Britannia Club restaurant; fine details extend to the dining chairs; sushi at Aji Wa; Queen Anne at sea; the ship’s stately bow.
The Pavilion pool is a big change. It’s covered by a large retractable roof designed by architect Martin Francis, who engineered the iconic Louvre pyramid in Paris. The pool itself is pretty small, given that the ship carries 3000 passengers. I preferred the smaller still Panorama Pool on the aft deck, with wake views. The Royal Court Theatre is different, too, spanning the height of two decks. Plays will be staged in here, as well as more traditional song-and-dance shows. There’s a new venue, Cruise&Travel
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the Bright Lights Society, a more intimate show lounge and nightclub that was hopping when I left at midnight. Queen Anne rings the changes with dining, too. The Britannia Club restaurant on Deck 2 is much bigger than on other ships; it’s a great option if you don’t want to be at a shared table at a fixed time, although the décor, while stylish, lacks the wow factor of the main dining room. There are four new specialty restaurants. Tramonto has a Mediterranean/Middle Eastern theme with dishes like buffalo mozzarella, confit-spiced eggplant and chermoula hake with hummus – worth the US$20 (AU$30) cover charge. In the Indian, Aranya, the menu has been created by Surjan Singh, aka celebrity Chef Jolly, for a very reasonable US$35 (AU$52) cover charge. At the back of the ship, on Deck 10, with views over the aft deck and pool, there’s a sushi restaurant, Aji Wa, and a new itineration of Sir Samuel’s (named after Cunard’s founder). Queen Mary 2 fans will know Sir Samuel’s as a coffee shop but on Queen Anne, it’s a steakhouse with a US$65 (AU$97) cover charge.
One venue that did miss the mark was the Artisans’ Foodhall. It’s supposed to have food preparation à la minute but it’s essentially a buffet where you point at what you want, and it’s served for you. It didn’t feel very artisanal and the food, unlike the dishes I tried in other venues, was pretty mediocre. Queen Anne will spend the European summer sailing northern Europe, the British Isles and the Mediterranean, before embarking on a world voyage in January. It’s going to be tight, getting everything ready – boxes of crew uniforms were still being loaded when I disembarked and venues like the yoga studio are not finished. But once the ship settles down, it should be a breath of fresh air for anyone who likes the formality and tradition of such an illustrious line but wants the sense of something contemporary at the same time. CT 33
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ANTARCTICA 37 All you need to know | 44 Wildlife-spotting tips | 46 Silversea expedition
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Antarctica Special Report
As remote as it gets
Siple Island, Southern Ocean, Antarctica.
Photograph: ©Studio PONANT - Nathalie Michel.
A ANTARCTICA
ALL you need to know Astonishing in breadth, scale and beauty – Antarctica is a bucketlist destination. Sarah Marshall reveals the best ways to visit.
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I
n a world where every path has been taken and no stone left unturned, it’s hard to imagine there are places humans are yet to step foot. Extreme, uninhabitable and largely unknown, our seventh continent still harbours secrets scientists are yet to crack. Cradling our planet in her icy palm, she controls climates and moves oceans. More powerful than any government or monarch, she has shaped our past and continues to dictate our future. A white wilderness spanning 14.2 million square kilometres – almost 1.5 times the size of Europe – Antarctica is astonishing in breadth, scale and beauty. The driest, windiest and coldest place on our planet has set the stage for great acts of heroism: Sir Ernest Shackleton, Roald Amundsen
and Otto Nordenskjöld all risked their lives in the name of scientific discovery. But in modern times, ease of access and safer passage have enabled the rest of us to become great explorers, discovering a destination most people dream of glimpsing at least once in their lifetime. There’s no doubt the polar south is becoming increasingly desirable. In the 1950s, only a handful of tourists visited the Antarctic Peninsula, rising to fewer than 2000 people per year in the 1980s. That number increased drastically to 75,000 during the 2019/20 season. The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO) reports that the figure rose to 103,988 in 2022/23. Shifting away from rugged scientific research vessels and converted navy ships, the mighty machines now slicing through frozen waters are 37
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Antarctica Special Report
the equivalent of floating five-star hotels. Spas, hot tubs and ensuite bedrooms make the experience much more comfortable, while improved technology and design have made sailings smoother. Viking Expeditions, for instance, has six different dining venues as well as a hair salon and its famous Nordic Spa. Its ships even have sumptuous Owner’s Suites which have a separate dining and living area that seats six, a private library with handpicked wines and music by the owner of the company, Torstein Hagen, and even a boardroom, if you are inclined to work and hold meetings on your Antarctic adventure. Ponant will be sending four ships to the region, Le Boréal, Le Soléal, L’Austral and Le Lyrial, as well as six departures aboard Le Commandant Charcot, the world’s only luxury icebreaker, for the 2025/26 season. The latter vessel can sail into the heart of the ice. And why wouldn’t you want to luxuriate in beautiful French surroundings, and feast on a menu crafted by Alain Ducasse with free-flowing Champagne? But it’s not just about a highend experience. Ponant has created programs on and off shore – lectures on the ship are led by world-class naturalists and scientists who provide debriefings after the onshore adventures. The range of activities on board has also expanded, providing new ways to experience the ice. Kayak along frozen coastlines, snorkel around the submerged hummocks of bergs, camp overnight in the snow or grit your chattering teeth for a polar plunge. But nothing beats standing on deck and appreciating wonderfully unfamiliar sights and sounds: the crackle of glaciers calving; the glorious symphony of 38
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penguins trumpeting; the heavy exhale of a humpback whale blowing; or the splendid cacophony of a ship’s bow crunching through brash ice. Fossils of dinosaurs and plant pollens indicate this land was once closer to the equator. But Antarctica as we know it was formed 34 million years ago, although it’s changing rapidly due to climate change. More than ever before, it’s important to travel responsibly. Inviting passengers to become ambassadors for the fragile continent’s protection, companies such as Hurtigruten and Aurora Expeditions run citizen science programmes, monitoring cloud patterns, measuring water salinity and adding photos of whale flukes to a database. Signed by major nations in 1959, the Antarctic Treaty declares this is a place for peace and science. It’s the only part of our planet that belongs to no one, and yet it belongs to all of us. Ponant has started its partnership with the Macquarie Island Conservation Foundation, which aims to facilitate science and research programs to help the preservation of this fragile landscape. Heritage Expeditions, one of the few lines to offer departures from Australia and New Zealand, has been supporting scientific research and conservation in New Zealand and the Southern Ocean since its first voyages. The company contributes to conservation through experiential learning and citizen science, and also provides funds for research, management and logistical support.
“The mighty machines now slicing through frozen waters are the equivalent of floating five-star hotels.”
HOW TO GET THERE
Most people visiting Antarctica will head to the Peninsula, an island-studded slither of rocks and glaciers curving into the Southern Ocean. The closest point to inhabited land, it’s the Cruise &Travel
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Insider tips / Early bird
Go early to avoid angry fur seals. In recent years, populations have ballooned, especially in South Georgia. During the breeding season (November to January) males can become extremely aggressive and have been known to bite people. Many ships now advise their guests not to lie or crouch down when taking photographs.
/ Avoid the crowds
Try to choose a ship with less than 120 passengers if you want more time on land. Most landing sites in Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falklands limit numbers to
fewer than 100. Ships get around this by splitting excursions between landings and Zodiac cruises – but this does mean less time on land.
/ Schedule watch
Keep an eye on daily changes to the sailing plan. There are some spectacular narrow channels – such as the Antarctic Sound – but the captain may need to sail through these at night due to weather conditions. It’s worth getting up in the early hours to witness the spectacle.
/ Rough waters
Be prepared for seasickness. The Drake Passage and waters
fastest (and most affordable) gateway for expedition cruise ships to reach the seventh continent. Vessels generally depart from Ushuaia at the southern tip of Argentina, a three-and-a-halfhour flight from Buenos Aires with low-cost airlines Flybondi or Jetsmart or with national carrier Aerolíneas Argentinas (although be warned: there is a strict 15kg luggage allowance). Several ships also set sail from Chile, either from Punta Arenas (for those interested in an extended cruise through the Straits of Magellan with views of glaciers, forests and waterfalls) or Puerto Williams. Anyone terrified of the Drake Shake – the Drake Passage between South America’s Cape Horn, Chile, Argentina and the South Shetland Islands is known as one of the most treacherous and dangerous bodies of water in the world – can also take a two-hour flight from Punta Arenas to King George Island in the Shetlands, lying off the Peninsula, or a one-and-a-half-hour flight to Stanley in the Falkland Islands. But be warned: these flights are extremely dependent on weather conditions and can be far less reliable than travelling by sea. LATAM and Qantas fly to Punta Arenas from Santiago, with onward flights to Puerto Williams.
around South Georgia can be rough. Various patches and tablets work as a prevention. But if you do feel queasy, one of the best things to do is get fresh air. Avoid reading books and choose a cabin on a lower deck, which tends to be more stable. But Silversea is the only major cruise line to offer flights over the Drake Passage. You can skip the rough seas on one of its Antarctica Bridge cruises where you’ll fly from Santiago to Punta Arenas. Then you’ll fly Business Class from Punta Arenas straight to King George Island, where you’ll meet one of its luxury ships.
If you’re flying into Buenos Aires, it’s highly advisable to factor in an extra night in the city rather than heading directly to Ushuaia and onto a ship.
WHEN TO GO
Ice-capades
Clockwise, from left: Onshore exploration; crabeater seal; Paradise Bay.
Generally, the season runs from October until March, the Southern hemisphere’s summer, when milder temperatures and ice melt make the continent accessible. The shoulder season months tend to be less busy but are popular with photographers who come for the light: dusks and dawns in hues of pink, orange and gold are common as seasons shift from spring into autumn. Wildlife is consistently fascinating at any time of the year, but there are cycles to consider. Guests on early-October voyages to sub-Antarctic island South Georgia may have a chance to witness testosterone-pumped elephant seals ‘jousting’ as they rear up and swing their blubbery bodies at each other. Up until the end of November, fur seals are also less aggressive and more manageable. Unsurprisingly, December and January tend to be the busiest periods for tourists, with chicks from several penguin species hatching around this time. Large colonies of penguins are guaranteed, but numbers thin out in the following weeks as they moult and return to sea. In the past few years, sightings of whales have increased dramatically, the results of increased protection and a commercial whaling ban in 1986 now taking effect. March is considered one of the top months for cetacean sightings; it’s also your best chance to witness leopard seals predate on penguins as they head back into the water for winter. Specific voyages to cross the Antarctic Circle happen later in the season when less ice allows ships to reach 66°30’ S.
WHEN TO BOOK
Small ships and specialist departures tend to sell out quickly, along with triple-share cabins which still present the cheapest way to travel. Ship schedules are released between 24 and 18 months in advance, with early booking discounts from 15 per cent up to 25 per cent. Continued page 42 Cruise&Travel
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Best packages
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hether booking directly with a cruise company or through a tour operator, make sure they can organise flights and all ground arrangements. If any accidents occur or ships are delayed due to bad weather, an operator can deal with all the changes.
/ Ross Sea voyages
Heritage Expeditions offers all-inclusive travel with Ross Sea voyages including pre-cruise hotel night (with dinner and breakfast) in Queenstown, New Zealand, transfer to ship, shore excursions, meals and some alcohol onboard with lunch and dinner, all excursions, lectures as well as post-voyage airport transfers.
/ Veteran adventure
Those with a sense of adventure can kayak, camp, mountaineer, ski or SUP on a trip to the seventh continent with Quark’s 199-passenger ship, Ultramarine. Equipped with an onboard helicopter for scenic flights, it’s one of the most luxurious true expedition ships on the market. With four embarkation points, operations are conducted much faster than on other ships (where you can end up queuing on a gangway) and there’s a high 1:6 staff-toguest ratio.
/ Intimate sailing
Only a handful of ships carry fewer than 100 passengers, the maximum number permitted to go ashore at one time to most landing sites. The Magellan Explorer is one of the few, used by Antarctica for its 17-day Falklands & South Georgia trip. Departing from Punta Arenas in Chile, the voyage passes through the Strait of Magellan, a fabled channel linking the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Expect greater flexibility and longer landings than most ships due to the smaller number of passengers onboard. Slightly larger is Heritage Expedition’s Heritage Adventure, which was purposebuilt for polar exploration, and has only 140 guests on board. Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot can accommodate 270 passengers and because of its Polar Class 2 rating, the icebreaking vessel can sail well inside the polar circles and deep into the middle of the ice.
/ Eco-expedition
Exemplifying a shift to more sustainable polar exploration, Aurora Expeditions launched a new 100 per cent carbonneutral ship, the Sylvia Earle, last season. Alongside landings, onboard lectures and activities will focus on conservation, giving guests an insight into what’s happening in Antarctica. An inverted bow design promises more comfortable crossings, while an outdoor heated swimming pool and Jacuzzis offer a novel way to observe wildlife from the deck. 40
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Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot’s hybrid power plant is powered by liquified natural gas as well as electric batteries. This means the ship can be briefly driven without the engines running, meaning a better outcome for sustainability. And this, in turn, has a set major technological advancement for the future of vessels sailing in the region. Heritage Expeditions, for instance, allows passengers to take part in citizen science initiatives. For example, guests collect air flask samples for GNS Science (a program the line has been involved with for eight years), as well as penguin bones and shells at the world’s largest and oldest Adelie penguin colony. The program is led by scientist Professor Steve Emslie from the University of North Carolina.
/ Luxury laboratory
Pioneering citizen science in Antarctica, Polar Latitudes offers guests an opportunity to understand the impact of climate change first-hand by taking part in penguin surveys, photographing whales and cloud mapping. The 164-passenger Seaventure is an all-suite vessel with a 1A super ice class rating – the highest ice class awarded to passenger vessels, featuring a custom-built citizen science lab, sauna and fitness studio. Viking Expeditions has wet and dry labs on its expedition ships, which have been developed in partnership with Cambridge
University and Akvaplan-niva. This allows the onboard scientists to conduct research on the wildlife. And guests can interact first hand with the scientists and learn about the projects they are working on. They give lectures and advice on biology, botany, geology, glaciology, oceanography and ornithology.
/ Venture further
Family-owned and -operated Australian company Heritage Expeditions has been pioneering the Ross Sea for years. The company has a 28-day ‘In the Wake of Scott and Shackleton: Ross Sea Antarctica’ voyage, which departs from Queenstown.
“Viking Octantis’s Finse Terrace, an outdoor lounge area with heated couches and lava rock ‘firepits’.”
Break the ice
Le Commandant Charcot (left); Ponant Captain Stanislas Devorsine (above left); Silversea’s Silver Cloud (above).
The itinerary is designed to walk in Sir Ernest Shackleton’s footsteps and guests can visit his hut at Cape Royds. The voyage includes a visit to Enderby Island during sea lion breeding season, viewings of Adelie penguins with their chicks and a navigation through pack ice that guards the entrance to the Ross Sea. Heritage Expeditions is one of the few companies that visit this remote part of Antarctica. Go further south than most people have been on our planet on a voyage motoring to a 66°30’ S. A 14-day ‘Quest for the Antarctic Circle’ tour with G Adventures on the 134-passenger G Expedition aims to cross the invisible line, exploring rarely visited areas of the Southern Ocean. Discover wildlife-rich Marguerite Bay and encounter colonies of hardy Adelie penguins, who can migrate up to 16,000 kilometres.
/ On a budget
Antarctica isn’t a budget destination, and neither should it be. There’s a price to pay for visiting a pristine, fragile environment in the safest way possible without causing risk to humans, animals or the environment. But there are ways to make savings. Older expedition vessels, without the fancy frills, butler services and Moët on tap, can be a little rough around the edges but these sturdy, seaworthy ships offer much better value. Choose a triple-share cabin with shared bathroom facilities for the cheapest rates. Another way to keep costs low is by opting for a shorter itinerary, although carefully calculate how much time you’ll spend on land. Antarctica 21 for example, offer a six-day Antarctica Express fly-cruise for US$4995 (excluding international flights) – but only two days are spent landing on islands rather than the continent itself.
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Antarctica Special Report Pre-pandemic, a flurry of new ships carrying 200-plus passengers were commissioned. But since the market still hasn’t fully recovered from Covid, many sailings have been at reduced capacity. As a result, there’s been a lot of discounting. There’s no guarantee this will become a future trend, although it’s likely last-minute deals will always be available if you’re willing to be flexible on timings and choice of ship.
HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?
Given its remoteness and the logistics involved, there’s no cheap way to visit Antarctica. And, reflecting a global rise in fuel prices, costs are increasing. But prices do vary drastically depending on the type of vessel, the length of cruise, choice of cabin and the option to fly in and/or out. The cheapest might be a 17-day trip for under $4000 with Princess, though this won’t allow for trips on shore. A 10-day round trip with Silversea starts at just under $22,000 (excluding flights). By far, an eight-day private jet trip to see the emperors is the most expensive option at $162,710.
WHERE TO GO
Before you go
Do I need a visa? Australian and New Zealand residents will need a permit to visit Antarctica. However, cruise operators will take care of all the paperwork on your behalf. Is it safe? Antarctica is a true expedition destination, and that carries risk. Outrunning the weather is a major preoccupation and landing guests on ice can be hazardous. Crews tend to be well-trained and thankfully injuries are unusual. But make sure you have adequate evacuation insurance. What is the currency and should I take cash? For a blissful couple of weeks, ships are a cashless society. Instead, everything is charged to an account which can be paid using a credit or debit card at the end of the voyage. Back on the mainland, the Argentine peso fluctuates in value between an official and black-market rate. For the best deals (and safest money exchange) use Western Union, whose rates are similar to those available on the black market.
© M Maloney
The first choice to make is whether to head straight to the Peninsula or choose a longer trip including
South Georgia and the Falklands. The subAntarctics are a delight for wildlife lovers; colonies of albatross and king and rockhopper penguins not found further south can be seen here. Additionally, fans of Shackleton can replicate his final hike to safety and raise a dram of whisky at his grave. Cruises heading directly to the Peninsula follow a loose itinerary, largely dependent on weather, so it’s impossible to select landing sites in advance. However, several ships do offer specific itineraries into the Weddell Sea on the eastern side of the Peninsula (an adventurous area where there’s a slim chance of seeing a rogue emperor) and dedicated trips to motor down south and cross the Antarctic Circle (hopefully encountering large colonies of Adelie penguins and higher numbers of snow petrels). CT
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Hit the water
Getting up close to icebergs in Charlotte Bay; Adelie penguins taking off from Paulet Island.
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Antarctica Special Report
Spotto on ice
Learn how and where to spot Antarctica’s captivating wildlife, from giant whales to adorable penguins, with Justin Meguzzi. Utterly rugged and remote, the white continent is home to an abundance of unique wildlife above and below the water – including chinstrap penguins, orcas, leopard seals and albatross. On a voyage to Antarctica, knowing how and where to look becomes a game of skill, and with our guide you’ll be ahead of the pack.
EMPEROR PENGUIN • Known for their orange chests and stately physique, emperor penguins have become the unofficial poster bird for Antarctica. Often confused with their slightly smaller cousins, king penguins, there is a key difference between the two. Emperor penguins nest in colonies on fast ice connected to the Antarctic mainland, whereas king penguins are only found in the sub-Antarctic islands, such as South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands. Emperor penguins are famed for the ability to breed during the long, harsh winter season, with the male balancing an egg on his feet to keep it off the cold ground. You may find young emperor penguins getting ready to take their first swim, or try fish on their own, during the Antarctic summer. 44
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ORCA • The black and white orca, or killer whale, isn’t a whale at all – it’s part of the dolphin family and can be found throughout Antarctica’s waters. Working as a pack and using echolocation to coordinate their efforts has helped the orca to become one of the ocean’s most powerful apex predators. Orcas will hunt anything from seals to penguins and have even been recorded attacking great white sharks to eat their liver. In Antarctica there are three different types of orca: Antarctic orcas that live and feed in open water; yellow-tinged pack ice orcas who feed mainly on seals; and smaller orcas, who mainly eat fish.
CHINSTRAP PENGUIN • While the larger emperor and king penguins steal the show, the smaller penguin breeds – the chinstrap, Adelie and gentoo – are memorable in their own right, especially the chinstrap. Identifiable by the thin black line beneath its chin, this penguin has a bold personality. Chinstrap penguins congregate in enormous colonies along rocky coasts, sometimes with hundreds of thousands of breeding pairs. To attract a mate, the male will collect pebbles to construct an impressive nest, but each venture in search of new pebbles leaves the nest open to thieves. While the sound and smell of a chinstrap colony is overwhelming at first, focus on a few individuals to observe and you’ll see there’s lots of petty squabbles to keep you entertained.
SOUTHERN ELEPHANT SEAL • Greg Mortimer, founder and expedition leader of Aurora Expeditions, likens a pack of southern elephant seals to a “monstrous box of big Cuban cigars: wriggling, farting, and staring at you with deep curious eyes”. What the seals lack in polish, Mortimer says they make up for in sheer strength. Typically found in the sub-Antarctic Islands, including South Georgia, in great wallowing packs, each animal can weigh up to three tonnes and can dive down to 2000 metres. Following an aggressive round of “breeding battles”, pups are born in October and can be seen early in the summer season.
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HUMPBACK WHALES • There are eight whale species that frequent Antarctica, including fin, southern right and blue whales, but the most commonly sighted – and most active – is the humpback whale. Humpback pods migrate each year from Mexico to Cape Horn and then the Antarctic Peninsula, where they gorge themselves on krill, usually with their calves in tow. You’ll see them breaching and slapping their tails or fins on the water surface. There is no knowing when or where whales will show up, which is why their appearance always causes a stir. Keep an eye out for whale spouts, a tell-tale plume of water that is created when a whale exhales at the surface.
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SEABIRDS • From spring, over 100 million seabirds flock to Antarctica to breed and feed, ranging from the giant wandering albatross to the blue-eyed cormorant. The diminutive tern, identified by its striking black mask, has one of the longest annual migrations in the animal kingdom, travelling each year from the Arctic to the Antarctic on a 30,000-kilometre round trip.
LEOPARD SEAL • A solitary animal, the leopard seal roams the pack ice in search of penguins, squid and fish to eat. Leopard seals are wanderers, sometimes straying as close as Tasmania and the sub-Antarctic Islands, including Macquarie Island, and as far as the Antarctic Peninsula. Where you find fur seals and penguins, watch out for hunting leopard seals and their dramatic ambushes on the ice. For polar photographer Matt Horspool, a rendezvous with these apex predators always leaves an indelible mark. “Their silver coats shimmer in the light and capturing their captivating smiles, if you’re fortunate enough, is a bucket-list shot,” says Horspool, who has documented rare leopard seal courtship displays. CT
Earth’s fairies
• David McGonigal, an expedition leader and historian with Viking Cruises, says his personal favourite seabird is the snow petrel. “Apsley Cherry-Garrard, who wrote The Worst Journey in the World after travelling with famed polar explorer Robert Scott, described them as the nearest on Earth to fairies,” says McGonigal, adding that he once had to nurture a dazed petrel that had blown into a Viking cruise ship. Look for snow petrels when the weather turns, as their brilliant white bodies are easier to spot against dark clouds rather than icebergs.
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Antarctica Special Report
A Very DECADENT ADVENTURE
Why do it the hard way when you can have silver service on Antarctica’s ice, asks Louise Goldsbury.
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Icy wonderland
Humpback whale in Kayak Bay with Silver Endeavour in the background; hiking in Neko Harbour.
he best way to cross the Drake Passage is to Drake-fake it. Instead of enduring two heroic days on rough seas, you can fly in style in two hours. Nobody needs to know. But when it is aboard a privately chartered business-class plane painted with a penguin face, flying to reach one of the world’s most luxurious ships in amazing Antarctica, perhaps everyone needs to know. Silversea’s all-inclusive Antarctic Bridge adventure starts in Chile, relaxing overnight at a five-star hotel. Transferring to a tiny terminal at the airport, guests are welcomed by butlers for this exclusive flight. No other travellers or queues for security and no economy-class seats – this is how to travel smoothly to the White Continent. Champagne and lunch are served, without a side dish of seasickness, before landing at King George Island. From there, a fleet of Zodiacs brings passengers to the 220-guest Silver Endeavour. Stepping aboard, I sense I will enjoy this glamorous ship as much as the destination. The polar-class expedition vessel is truly exceptional, with spacious suites, a hot tub on the bow, a cigar and cognac lounge, three more bars, five restaurants, a huge lecture theatre, a spa, a gym and a library. The most impressive space is The Grill, a double-decker bistro surrounding an indoor pool. Fully enclosed with floor-to-ceiling glass, this elegant venue offers panoramic views by day, and dining under the stars by night. Breakfast and lunch are also served, so you can gaze at glaciers and icebergs in cosy comfort. Cruise&Travel
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Upcoming adventures
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ilversea also offers the option to sail both ways if you would like to experience the legendary Drake Passage. In January and February 2025, Silver Endeavour, Silver Cloud and Silver Wind are scheduled to offer 37 Antarctic cruises. Itineraries range from six to 40 days. Longer voyages venture to South Georgia Island and the Falkland Islands, with the longest cruise extending to Cape Town. In 2026, the three ships will depart regularly between January and March on itineraries ranging from six to 22 days. Silversea’s Antarctic Bridge program includes charter flights from Punta Arenas to the ship. Door-to-door fares include flights to and from Australia, private airport transfers from your home and back again, and pre/postcruise hotel accommodation in Chile. For those who prefer to make their own travel arrangements, cheaper port-to-port fares are available on select itineraries. All fares include dining, drinks, minibar, 24-hour room service, butler service, excursions, kayaking, internet, gratuities, waterproof pants and parka (for guests to take home) and waterproof boots to use throughout the cruise. 47
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Voyage SILVERSEA’S SILVER ENDEAVOUR
Expert tips
Favourite meal onboard: An off-menu curry, prepared on request by the chefs in The Grill. Insider tip: Book early for La Dame, as seats are limited to 20 diners. This is the only restaurant that charges a fee (US$60, or US$160 including wine pairing). What to expect: The onboard ambience is relaxed and friendly, attracting solo travellers, couples and small groups. All ages are welcome; most passengers are 50+. Silver Endeavour does not have facilities for children or babies; the minimum age to ride on a Zodiac is five years old. Children are rarely seen on Antarctic cruises but it’s a possibility. Packing: It’s not as cold as you think; summer is often sunny with temperatures over
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six degrees. Bring the obvious essentials such as wool socks, beanies, gloves, jumpers, long-sleeved shirts, scarf or neck wrap, and a base layer of long thermals. There is no need to pack a bulky coat or boots (both are provided) but do take flat shoes or sneakers to wear around the ship. The White Continent is very reflective, so don’t forget polarised sunglasses and sunscreen for your face. Policies: Anyone travelling to Antarctica must follow strict biosecurity and animal welfare guidelines. These measures include a full inspection of all clothing and gear, as well as a decontamination process after every landing to ensure boots, bags, walking poles and other equipment are spotlessly clean. Keep at least five metres away from wildlife. As tempting as it is, you can’t pat a penguin or hug a seal.
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A clear blue sky and sunshine accompany most of our voyage. As we set sail, I head out to the hot tub – my preferred kind of ‘polar plunge’. The steamy water contrasts with the frozen scene of snow-capped mountains on the shore. Metres away, three humpback whales come to the surface, gently puffing and flipping their tails. After watching them frolic for half an hour, I move to the sauna with ocean views, where I spot a pod of penguins. The action is immediate and honestly breathtaking. Arriving at Robert Island, off the Antarctic Peninsula, we get dressed in our gear (a lengthy procedure that improves with practice) and board the Zodiacs for a scenic ride. Hundreds of gentoo penguins are waddling around, unfazed by our presence, as we gleefully greet them on the snow. A few knee-high penguins approach to peer at these strange creatures with matching red coats. It feels surreal to see them up close, surrounded by such staggering beauty and peaceful silence, as if I am on another planet. In the distance, elephant seals are belching on the beach, while skuas and snow petrels soar overhead. It’s unlike anywhere else on Earth.
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he expedition crew have flagged trails to roam independently, or you can join a guided hike. We barely notice that we’ve spent several hours exploring this unforgettable scene, before we return to the ship for a hot shower. Throughout the week-long trip, we visit several sites every morning and afternoon. Neko Harbour is where we first step upon the Antarctic continent, as opposed to the islands off the Antarctic Peninsula. The buzz from this momentous occasion is electric. We kayak around Cuverville Island and Petermann Island, intrigued by the playful wildlife and icy palaces sculpted by wind and water. At each spectacular spot, we encounter thousands of penguins – from chinstraps and rockhoppers to the adorable Adélie species – and more humpbacks, orcas and minke whales, leopard seals, albatross and countless other seabirds. In the narrow Lemaire Channel, Silver Endeavour shows off the advantage of its PC6 rating, which means it can push through ‘first-year ice’ up to one metre thick. Reaching the end of the waterway, the captain gracefully spins the ship around to navigate to our next location. The small size of the ship makes it easily manoeuvrable. “You can turn on a dime,” says Captain Niklas Peterstam. “It’s by far the most technically advanced vessel I’ve ever been in charge of.” Among the technology is dynamic positioning, a computercontrolled system that holds the ship’s position using its propellers and thrusters, eliminating the need to drop anchor in this precious and fragile region. On top of the ship is a remote-controlled gimbal camera, used to capture ultra-high-definition images from up to five kilometres, which are projected live onto the big screens in the Explorer Lounge. The internet is high speed, reliable and free, thanks to Starlink satellite, which supports video calls and streaming. When sailing, the gangways are extended to become viewing platforms. These clever wings on either side of the ship are ideal for observing the scenery and wildlife from a lower vantage point. The Observation Lounge offers another excellent viewing area from a higher deck indoors. Silver Endeavour’s dining options include a main restaurant, the more intimate Il Terrazzino serving Italian food, La Dame for fine French cuisine, and the Arts Café for snacks. Complimentary drinks can be enjoyed across the ship or in the privacy of your cabin. Cruise&Travel
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Silver Endeavour in pictures
Clockwise from below: Marina Deck; Classic Veranda Suite; Owner’s Suite balcony; the library; dining at La Dame; the whirlpool.
Each suite has a balcony, king bed, minibar, marble bathroom, walk-in wardrobe and a drying closet. The ship also has two mudrooms, which are outfitted with designated lockers and boot heaters for getting ready for each shore excursion. Silversea employs a skilled team of expedition leaders, marine biologists, anthropologists, ornithologists, historians and a photographer/videographer, who deliver daily briefings and recaps, educational presentations and documentaries. The service is impeccable, with a 1:1 crew-to-passenger ratio, including butlers for more personalised attention. Our last evening is spent in the bar with newfound friends, mostly well-travelled Americans, Canadians, Brits and Australians. Ordering caviar and cocktails, we exchange contact details and send photos to each other’s phones. As a final farewell celebration, we gather in the lounge for a video compilation of our voyage to relive and reinforce the memories that we will never forget. CT
“It can turn on a dime. It’s by far the most technically advanced vessel I’ve ever been in charge of.”
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Antarctic Peninsula − Photo by Steve McCurry
f i at h W r e h t r u f g n i l el v t ra ? r e s o cl u o y s g br i n
30 YEARS EXPLORING THE WORLD. DISCOVER OUR ANTARCTICA. Contact your travel advisor, call 1300 306 872 or visit silversea.com/curious
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LEARN MORE
Two-night sailings may have modified or limited entertainment and dining offerings. Health and safety measures, ports of call and offerings may change at any time without notice. On board venues, experiences, services and offerings may be modified or limited in capacity or availability, and are subject to restrictions, cancellation or closure without notice. See disneycruise.com/updates Ships’ Registry: The Bahamas ©2024 Disney ©2024 MARVEL
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Oceans 54 Next-gen cruisers | 58 Sun Princess | 70 Disney without kids
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Emerald Sakara
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Ocean Trends
DITCH the DECKCHAIRS For decades, the stereotypical image of a cruiser was a rosy-cheeked retiree, shuffling to the buffet and bingo nights. But everything has changed, writes Peter Lynch.
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t was always a bit of a myth that cruising was just for the newlywed or the nearly dead, but it managed to put off tens of thousands of travellers convinced that cruise ships were floating retirement villages. Today, however, a seismic shift is underway. The 2023 Cruise Lines International Australasia (CLIA) report paints a very different picture: the new profile of the Australian cruiser is younger, more adventurous, and prioritises luxury experiences that go beyond the all-youcan-eat buffets and endless cocktails. What’s more, according to the latest numbers, we’re the fourth-largest cruising nation on the planet, with total passenger numbers set to grow over the next four years to an astonishing 1.7 million. That means an extra 460,000 by 2028 – or the equivalent of 129 new sailings of Majestic Princess with every cabin taken. Let’s unpack this exciting evolution.
/ Farewell stereotypes: Younger generation cruising
The CLIA report tosses overboard the myth that cruising is solely for retirees. The average age of the Australian cruise passenger has dropped to 48.4 years old. Five years ago, it was 50.4 years. Joel Katz, CLIA Managing Director in Australasia, told Cruise & Travel: “We are seeing a clear generational change as cruise lines attract new cruisers and younger travellers. The typical age of a cruise passenger has been
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coming down steadily for many years, both locally and around the world ... The portion of cruisers aged under 40 is now almost a third, or 32.5 per cent. “Research internationally shows some of the most enthusiastic of potential first-time cruisers are from among the younger generations – Gen X, Millennials and Gen Z. “Cruise lines have been broadening the diversity of experiences and different styles of cruising for some time, and this has resulted in incredible choices on board and on shore. Cruise fans know this, and an increasing number of younger people have discovered this too. “But among people who have never cruised before, there are still a significant number who think a cruise is only about bingo and shuffleboard. That means we still have work to do in showing how varied the different styles of cruising have become and the remarkable value it offers.” The new, younger Australian cruiser is digitally savvy, well-travelled, and has a strong desire for curated experiences that combine relaxation with exploration. They’re not interested in simply lounging by the pool all week – they crave itineraries packed with cultural immersion, shore excursions focused on authenticity, and opportunities to connect with the destinations they visit. Steve Odell, Chief Sales Officer of Regent Seven Seas, says, “The really great news is that 27 per cent of global cruise travellers are first-timers. More time in port and more cultural experiences also stood out, which reinforces Regent Seven Seas’ decision to offer more immersive overnight itineraries.”
/ The rise of multigenerational cruising
Another major demographic change is the rise of multi-generational cruising. Fuelled by grandparents with cash to spend and a hankering to take the whole family on holiday without the heartache of domestic chores, cruise has become a favourite for big family get-togethers – and many lines now have interlinked cabins to cater for them. Odell has further insights: “In addition to the top-line numbers there is a noticeable growth
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First-timers
Clockwise, from left: From spa days to paddleboard matches, modern flavours, fine wines and cocktails, ships are attracting a younger generation.
/ Eco-conscious cruising
in the 18-35 age bracket – undoubtedly, multi-generational travel and more availability of shorter cruises are an influence in the local homeport market (28 per cent of cruise travellers travel with three-to-five generations),” he says.
/ A craving for culinary delights
Homogenous buffets churning out endless plates of mass-produced food are definitely sinking without a trace. The new wave of Australian cruisegoers has a passion for good food. Cruise lines are catering to this by offering a wider variety of dining options, from specialty restaurants featuring internationally acclaimed chefs to regionally inspired cuisine that reflects the flavours of the ports of call. Think freshly shucked oysters while docked in Sydney Harbour, or savouring a plate of steaming pho after exploring the bustling streets of Ho Chi Minh City.
/ Luxury redefined: Wellness and enrichment
Luxury for the modern younger Australian cruiser isn’t just about spacious cabins and plush amenities. It’s about an experience that nourishes both the body and the soul. And cruise lines are upping their game by providing world-class wellness facilities, including high-tech gyms, yoga studios with panoramic views, and even spa treatments inspired by ancient healing traditions. Enrichment programs are also a major draw, with lectures from renowned experts, onboard cooking demonstrations led by celebrity chefs, and workshops that delve into the history and culture of the destinations visited.
Sustainability is a growing concern for Australians, and this extends to their travel choices. Cruise lines are recognising this by implementing eco-friendly practices, such as using cleaner fuels, reducing waste production and offering shore excursions that promote sustainable tourism. The new breed of Australian cruise fan appreciates these efforts and actively seeks out cruise lines that are committed to protecting the delicate ecosystems they explore.
/ Adventure awaits: Embracing the untamed
The younger Australian cruiser isn’t content with simply ticking destinations off a list. They crave adventure and unique experiences that go beyond the typical tourist trail. Cruise lines are responding with a wider range of shore excursions that cater to this adventurous spirit. Optional activities could include anything from kayaking through the pristine fjords of Norway to white-water rafting down the Mekong River in Vietnam. Imagine zip-lining through the lush rainforests of Costa Rica or scaling the ancient ruins of Petra in Jordan – all excursions that are seamlessly integrated into your luxurious cruise itinerary.
/ Social connections: Cruising as a community
While Australians love adventure, they also value social connection. The intimate nature of small-ship cruising fosters a strong sense of community. Passengers bond over shared experiences, creating lasting friendships with fellow travellers who share their passion for exploration and discovery. Big-ship cruises also offer plenty of opportunities for social interaction, from lively onboard entertainment venues to themed dinners that bring people together from all walks of life.
/ The bottom line: A sophisticated holiday option
The new profile of the Australian cruise enthusiast is a discerning traveller seeking a sophisticated holiday experience. So, ditch the deckchairs, embrace exploration, and get ready to experience the world in a whole new light – on board your next cruise adventure. CT 55
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Ocean News
/Welcome, Douglas Mawson
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urora Expeditions will soon welcome to its fleet its third purpose-built small expedition ship, Douglas Mawson. The ship is coming to Australia and New Zealand. ‘Mawson’s Antarctica’ voyage from Hobart to Dunedin includes the New Zealand Subantarctic Islands. Douglas Mawson has a capacity of 154 passengers and features the latest revolutionary Ulstein X-BOW, designed for smoother and faster ocean crossings. She also boasts world-leading fuel efficiency. There are stylish and comfortable staterooms and suites across 11 different categories, most including private balconies – and the Aurora
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UTOPIA’S Perfect Day
line will also offer several single-berth cabins for the first time. Public spaces include two restaurants, two bars, an outdoor heated swimming pool, a pool bar and Jacuzzis, a gym and sauna, relaxation and wellness areas. There is also a library lounge, a citizen science centre and lecture theatre. Observation decks offer panoramic views of wilderness and wildlife.
• Icon of the Seas’ sister, Utopia of the Sea, has completed her sea trials ahead of her launch in Florida in July 2024. She will join the fleet on July 19 and will be the first Oasis-class ship to debut with three-night and four-night weekday cruises. The ship will have 40 food and beverage spaces including the Royal Railway, a first-of-its-kind immersive train-car dining experience. There will also be more pools than any other Royal Caribbean ship, the longest dry slide at sea, entertainment across air, ice, water and stage. Utopia of the Seas will visit Royal Caribbean’s private island in the Bahamas, Perfect Day at CocoCay. The island has 14 waterslides, the largest freshwater pool in the Caribbean, and the newly opened adults-only oasis, Hideaway Beach, with its private beach, pools, restaurants and bars, and exclusive cabanas and live music. Cruise &Travel
4/6/2024 1:10 pm
Viking launches 2026 World Cruises • Viking has launched three epic new world cruises for 2026, including two extended expedition voyages from the white continent to the Americas. The 69-day Longitudinal World Cruise VI on Viking Octantis from Buenos Aires to Milwaukee combines five itineraries on a journey across nine countries. It will sail to Antarctica and remote South Georgia Island, and then on to North America’s Great Lakes. Along the journey, passengers will enjoy the culture of Peru, the majestic glaciers of Chile, and the option to experience the unique wildlife of the Galápagos. The 63-day Longitudinal World Cruise VII on Viking Polaris from Buenos Aires to Milwaukee also combines five shorter itineraries across nine countries. It will visit world-class attractions such as Niagara Falls before arriving at its final port in the Great Lakes.
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/Fare’s fair on Silversea
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ilversea has broadened its pricing structure to include three fare options. Aside from the Door-to-Door and Port-to-Port fares, the luxury line has added a new voyage-only Essential fare. The fare features all onboard inclusive amenities and services on a selection of soon-to-depart voyages, while offering guests the flexibility to arrange their own airfare, transfers and shore experiences according to their schedule. Conditions vary: the time-sensitive Essential fare does not include shore excursions on ocean-going voyages, but does includes shore excursions, expedition gear and charter flights when booked for expedition voyages.
SWIRL with SUKHOTHAI & PLANTERIE • Norwegian
Aqua, which is slated to launch in 2025, will offer three new restaurant concepts including its first-ever Thai specialty restaurant, Sukhothai. The line will also have a dedicated plant-based dining hub called Planterie, as well as a new upscale wine bar, the Swirl. Sukhothai will put a spin on traditional Thai cuisine with dishes such as cashew chicken, salt and pepper prawns and Thai grilled steak salad. Planterie will serve an array of healthy bowls such as the Southwest Bowl with smoked tempeh and the Mediterranean Goddess Bowl brimming with spiced vegetables, tabbouleh and honey-roasted carrots.
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Voyage
From whooping chefs to a mind-blowing magician, Princess Cruises’ nextgeneration ship is full of surprises. Sue Bryant sails the Sun Princess.
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tanding on the dock at Chania, Crete, I tried to capture a shot of the new Sun Princess. This was a struggle as, quite simply, the 4300-passenger ship feels enormous. Sun Princess is the first in Princess Cruises’ new Sphere Class, distinguished by what looks like a giant glass ball curving out of both sides of the ship. This creates a lovely sense of light and space in the atrium on decks 7, 8 and 9, the social hub of the ship. Sun Princess also has a large glass dome at the front, under which there’s lounging space, aerial acts, live music and an indooroutdoor pool. When I sailed, a few venues weren’t ready; the ship was delayed in the yard and the first cruise was cancelled, so we had to do without one of the restaurants and the colourful activity area on the upper deck. These represent a strong effort by the line to be more family-friendly; kids will love the high ropes course and I’d like to have tried the Rollglider, the first of its kind on a ship. But now everything is up and running and the summer season in the Mediterranean is well underway, I imagine Park19, as the area is called, will be hit.
So, what’s new? First, the overall vibe of the ship is less sedate than Princess regulars might expect. The Piazza is no longer a re-imagined Italian square with places for a quiet coffee or a glass of wine. It’s busy all day long with quiz shows, dance classes, games and music. I liked the buzz, but some found it noisy. The parties in the evenings were great fun, especially the Back to the 80s neon-fest, although the people trying to enjoy a romantic dinner at the posh sushi restaurant on the deck above may have felt differently. The Horizons Dining Room is absolutely beautiful: opt for fixed seating dining and bag a table at the aft end of Deck 6, in front of two decks of floor-to-ceiling glass, and you’ll be in heaven. Deck 7 is for Anytime Dining, and you can book via the Princess app or join the queue. The food was good, and I appreciated the Mediterranean touches on the menu as we sailed from Athens to Rome: tasty spinach filo pie, salade Niçoise and moussaka were all hits. Deck 8, still part of the main dining room, is a new concept called Americana with an all-day breakfast menu, should you crave fried chicken wings and breakfast burritos for dinner, with the promise of super-fast service. The buffet, called The Eatery, was not great. It’s long and thin, with not enough seating, particularly on a rainy day. Although there are some decent curries, the
SPELLBOUND Just magic
Exclusive to Sun Princess, Umai Teppanyaki ( left); magician show at Victorian-themed bar Spellbound.
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Voyage
SUN PRINCESS IN THE MEDITERRANEAN
“I LIKED THE WAKE VIEW TERRACE ... WITH A DREAMY INFINITY POOL AND A HAPPY VIBE.” salad bar is, well… limp compared to the vibrant offerings on rival cruise lines. Bizarrely, there’s no self-service tea and coffee anywhere on the ship, which seems a real oversight. There’s a far wider choice of specialty restaurants on Sun Princess than on other Princess ships: 10, to be precise. The Crown Grill, the lovely Sabatini’s and Alfredo’s Pizzeria are all Princess staples and were as popular as ever, although you have to pay for the pizzas in Alfredo’s now (about $22). Umai, the Teppanyaki restaurant (about $68), was great fun, although it’s got the vibe of a rowdy hens’ night, with cheering, whooping and chanting as the jolly chefs at the centre of each table juggle eggs and knives, chop, crack jokes and dish up sizzling fried rice, teriyaki chicken and succulent miso salmon. The Butcher’s Block by Dario (about $68) is wasted on anybody who isn’t a serious carnivore: it’s non-stop beef, course after course. They catered admirably and imaginatively for the vegetarians among us, but even the meat-eaters looked defeated by the end. There’s also Makoto Ocean, the swish sushi bar, which looks beautiful and should appeal to seafood-loving Australians, and O’Malley’s, an Irish pub offering pub grub for a small fee in the evenings (about $15 for a main). New for Sun Princess is Spellbound by Magic Castle, an immersive, close-up magic experience that costs about $224 per person. For this, you get a themed dinner before being 60
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ushered into a cleverly hidden, Hogwarts-like room with flickering (faux) fire, a resident “spirit”, exciting cocktails that billow dry ice, and mysterious illusions. The card tricks by magician Woody Aragón were mind-blowing – this is seriously top-level magic. It’s a high cover price but if you’re, say, a multigenerational family group, it would be a real treat.
Time in the Sun
From left: Exclusive dining for Reserve Collection guests; top deck space, the Sanctuary Club; a port visit to Santorini; the Cabana Deck.
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he evening entertainment, too, was outstanding. The Princess Arena, which has different configurations and will host high-tech production shows, wasn’t fully ready, so my cruise featured solo acts rather than singing and dancing. I was blown away by The Voice UK semi-finalist Andrew Bateup, and the hilarious juggling comedian Goronwy Thom had the audience crying with laughter. Entertainment is free, of course, but a lot of things cost extra. If you drink alcohol and use WiFi and want to avoid a jawdropping bill at the end of the cruise, I’d book a package. I was on Princess Premier, which costs about $120 per day and includes 15 drinks up to about $30 (who can drink that much?), tips, fast WiFi, some speciality dining, proper coffee, water in plastic bottles, a set of photos, fitness classes and unlimited $18 sundaes from Coffee & Cones by the pool. In the name of research, I tried one of these: The Godfather, about 2000 calories’ worth of chocolate brownie, vanilla ice cream and spray cream. I took a Pilates class, too, which while Cruise &Travel
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Expert tips
Favourite meal The Catch by Rudi was my favourite, from the sizzling garlic prawns to the flaky sea bream, and light, creamy profiteroles with chocolate sauce poured on top. The tableware in here is fabulously quirky, too, from the fish-shaped green water bottles to the silver octopus bowl in which the prawn cocktail was served. Insider tip Use the tech. The Ocean Medallion, which everybody has, is an impressive gadget - it opens your cabin door as you approach, for
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example. You really need to download and use the app to get the restaurant bookings you want and keep on top of the schedule. The tiny guest-services area is virtually hidden, tucked away on Deck 6, often with long queues, so try to manage without it. What to expect Do expect a lively vibe on board and a younger passenger mix; the kids’ clubs and top deck playground are impressive and the entertainment is family friendly. But brace yourself if you’re bothered by smoke. There were a lot of dedicated gamblers on my cruise and the casino, forward on Deck 8, allows smoking, which isn’t well contained.
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Voyage pleasant, was absolutely not worth the about $45 I would have paid had I not bought a package. The Princess Plus deal cost a little less (about $90 per person per day) and includes considerably less, so if you want to push the boat out, as it were, Premier offers bigger savings. The ship was sailing full on my cruise. The spring weather was cool, so the pool area never felt particularly crowded, and there are alternatives to the main pool deck. I liked the Wake View Terrace at the back of the ship, with a dreamy infinity pool and a happy vibe at sundowner time. There’s a lot of sunbathing space forward of The Dome, too, and the indoor-outdoor pool here is a pleasant spot to cool off. The ship also has a beautiful Sanctuary pool, with cabanas and its own menu. Until October 2024, you can buy a day pass to access this space, but after October, it becomes exclusive to Sanctuary Collection guests. This is a new, all-inclusive concept that covers the Signature Collection Suites, the Mini Suites and the Premium Deluxe Balconies. The suites have their own lounge, too, a Princess first. The line is certainly heading in the direction of Celebrity Cruises, with its ship-within-a-ship Retreat concept. Speaking of accommodation, my Deluxe Balcony cabin was a welcome haven, done out in soft shades of silver, green and stone. I had no complaints; the bed was spectacularly comfortable and the bathroom modern and spacious, with a glass shower door and fragrant Beekman 1802 bath goodies. There are some new cabin grades worth checking out. I liked the Cabana Balcony cabins, which have an extended balcony opening onto the Cabana Deck, and a communal area with big, squashy loungers and its own hot tubs. Who will like this ship? Sun Princess is an impressive effort by the line to be more contemporary and more family-friendly, and to offer greater choice. I’d say it’s heavily geared to American tastes, which is fair enough, given that the US is its main market. Do go for the entertainment and the novelties such as Spellbound. Don’t go for peace and quiet unless you want to pay for a suite. And watch out for those extras. CT
How suite it is
Artist’s impressions of the Owner’s Suite; exercise class; and Cabana Mini-Suite.
SUN PRINCESS IN THE MEDITERRANEAN
Verdict
Passengers: 4300 Crew: 1600 Launched: 2024 Tonnage: 175,500 Passenger decks: 16, although the deck plan suggests 17, as there is no Deck 13. Highs Wonderful sense of light and space, great entertainment and plenty of dining choice. Lows Extra costs and too much smoke around the casino.
Verdict Great for Gen X and millennials, with or without kids, but Princess die-hards may prefer a more conventional ship.
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Valentino Garavani Vlogo fedora, $1490.
Ralph Lauren Collection Elliot blazer, $4651.
Jacques Marie Mage Dealan sunglasses, $1268.
Mediterranean
Sea Kendra cotton-twill blouse, $510.
Trunk show July Checked Plus suitcase, $425. Mr P. James Derby shoes, $471. Zimmermann Ottie dress, $945.
Celine Homme jacket, $3432.
Bottega Veneta bag, $4845.
Miguelina Alegra pants, $856. Frescobol Carioca shirt, $342.
Polo Ralph Lauren linen trousers, $429.
Aquazzura Talita 50 pumps, $1055.
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Voyage
Private on the Caribbean You might be aboard the only ship in the sea on one of Emerald Sakara’s Caribbean cruises, writes Sue Bryant.
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haven’t won the lottery but it feels like it as I accept an iced fruit kebab from a smiling waiter, the infinity pool next to me reflecting the indigo Caribbean sky. The jagged, jungled Pitons mountains of St. Lucia form a pleasing backdrop to the harbour at sleepy Soufriere, where Emerald Sakara, “my” yacht, is anchored. No other cruise ships are visible; they mostly go into the far less scenic capital, Castries, along the coast. Only fishing boats and a few gin palaces are around us, and Sakara is the biggest, sleekest gin palace of them all. Launched in 2023, this is the second yacht for Emerald Cruises. The formula has been so successful that a third has recently been announced. In an era where cruise lines embrace the economies of scale that come from giant ships, Emerald has gone in the opposite direction. Sakara and its sister, Azzurra, carry just 100 passengers each. And while they feel like superyachts, they’re priced lower than the all-inclusive yacht cruises of sister company Scenic, and are a bargain compared to the prices you’d pay for newcomers such as The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection and Four Seasons. This is small-ship living; if you want ultra-luxe, go for the larger Scenic yachts. Other than sandwiches and snacks by the pool, all meals are in the indoor-outdoor La Cucina restaurant, where breakfast and lunch are buffet and evenings are à la carte. Even in the humidity and heat of the Caribbean, there was competition for the outside tables, which are undeniably romantic.
Floats my boat
Emerald Sakara’s marina platform (right); the luxury yacht off St. Lucia.
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Voyage
EMERALD SAKARA IN THE CARIBBEAN As well as the infinity pool, there’s an oversized whirlpool and a marina platform. Most days, the water toys were brought out and I’d bask on a floating mat, water sloshing gently in my ears, or have a bounce on the water trampoline. The ship is extremely glossy, with lots of white marble, gauzy grey, gleaming stainless steel and banks of lush greenery. Entertainment is laid-back but excellent; chillout music by the onboard guitarist Jamie Ferguson set the scene most nights as I sipped my pre-dinner martinis, the fiery Caribbean sunset streaking the sky. The itinerary and the ship attracted a fun-loving crowd, with plenty of people in their 30s and 40s. There were groups of friends, four Canadians travelling in mother-daughter combos, some Brits celebrating a 50th birthday and others just with partners. Even though the nightlife was informal, this lot liked to dance (and booze) in the evenings. For me, choosing this cruise was all about the itinerary: no long sea passages, no overcrowded ports, just gentle island-hopping between small, out-of-the-way anchorages on a week’s potter round-trip from Antigua. After Antigua, we didn’t see another ship – and there
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“NO LONG SEA PASSAGES, NO OVERCROWDED PORTS, JUST GENTLE ISLAND-HOPPING BETWEEN SMALL, OUT-OF-THE-WAY ANCHORAGES.” aren’t many Caribbean cruises where you can make that claim. Australians who have travelled the distance to the Caribbean may want a more culture-packed itinerary than mine, which focused almost entirely on beach life – the reason most Europeans and North Americans come here. But there is history, if you look for it. I was keen, for example, to discover more about Martinique, which has been shaped in more ways than one by the brooding hulk of the volcano Mont Pelée, overlooking the peaceful little village of St. Pierre. Colourful houses in bright pastels with a hint of Art Nouveau straggle along a sparkling grey sand beach. Given that this is a slice of France in the tropics, I shouldn’t have been surprised to see locals tucking into their plats du jour and bottles of red wine in the heat of the day. But I was on a mission to visit the Musée Volcanologique. This slightly chilling museum tells the story of the day in 1902 that changed the town forever. Mont Pelée obliterated the entire population of 29,000 in the space of two minutes flat, with a single, cataclysmic blast of hot gas. For days before, lightning flashed around the summit and rushing rivers propelled boulders and boiling mud down to the coast, which might have been a clue to get out. But there was only one survivor, Ludger Sylbaris, a small-time criminal who’d been locked in an underground cell at the time of the eruption. He was freed and, once he’d recovered from his burns and joined a travelling circus, became a minor celebrity. Normally, a cruise itinerary to this part of the world includes one day in St. Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG), but we had three, which was such a treat. This island chain is famed for its swish-but-discreet hotels, A-list following and (for the Caribbean, which is not the Great Barrier Reef ) spectacular snorkelling. Mayreau is the tiniest speck of an island, the golden sand of Saline Bay backed by sea grape trees, the shadows of underwater rocks clearly
Land and sea
Clockwise, from above: Salt Whistle Bay, the Grenadines; Emerald Sakara’s Aqua Pool Cafe, Observation Lounge, spa and Aqua Pool area; St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands.
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Voyage visible at one end. We snorkelled here among blue tangs, stripy sergeant majors and red sea stars. Lunch was on the beach, prepared by local caterers, a barbecue of fried conch, chicken, rice and treacly fried bananas. Port Elizabeth on Bequia is a chic little spot, just a short sail away. The intensity of the colours – lime green, bright orange and electric turquoise – was dazzling. Even the trees are painted. There’s royal history here; the late Princess Margaret honeymooned in the Grenadines in 1960 and swam off her yacht to what’s now named Princess Margaret Beach. You can reach it by following a pretty trail over the saddle of a hill and around a boardwalk over crystal-clear water, sea stars and urchins clearly visible on the seabed. We had the beach almost to ourselves; a few locals were limin’ (the Caribbean word for lounging around with friends and shooting the breeze). A pack of local dogs splashed around with us in the water. The Tobago Cays, our final stop in SVG, had the best snorkelling of all. The sea here is a bright aquamarine, streaked with sapphire, low-rise bottle-green islands scattered across the horizon. I swam among big schools of blue tang, iridescent blue and pink parrotfish. and boxfish with comically pouty lips. Two big rays glided beneath me and shot off into the deep blue. If you come here, bring cash; local fishermen will ferry you around the headland to the seagrass beds where you can swim among feeding sea turtles. Foolishly, I’d come illequipped, forgetting that tiny islands don’t take credit cards, and had blown all my dollars on floaty beachwear in Bequia.
Expert tips Favourite Meal I didn’t have a single favourite meal, but the destination-inspired dishes were the best: prawn bisque, a confit tuna salad, sole with green-pea puree, black bean burritos and a killer key-lime pie.
Insider Tips You don’t need to bring snorkelling gear – it’s handed out on board. Do book some of the tours, which cost extra, as they’ll show you the Caribbean beyond the beaches. We did a good excursion in Soufriere to the sulphur springs, where you can wallow in geothermically heated pools and slap on a healing layer of black mud. They get booked up, as I found to my cost, so plan ahead. What to expect Expect a sociable, laidback scene with friendly service and a younger-than-usual cruising crowd. While evenings weren’t dressy, as such, people did dress to fit the vibe of the yacht, so pack something floaty or some smart tailored shorts.
Iles des Saintes, a gorgeous little island chain belonging to Guadeloupe, has always been one of my favourite Caribbean spots and on this visit, I wanted to explore further than the town waterfront, where I’m normally distracted by the boutiques and the toes-in-the-sand bars. Yet again, my lack of organisation caught up with me. The ship’s snorkelling tour was full, and all the local taxi drivers were apparently having a siesta. So we hired e-bikes, determined to reach Plage Pain de Sucre, where the snorkelling was said to be good. Pain de Sucre means Sugar Loaf, which ought to have been a clue; even on an e-bike, getting up the hills in the humidity was exhausting. The snorkelling was rewarding, with corals, multicoloured sponges and plenty of fish, and a couple of icecold beers back in town restored my flagging sense of humour. My itinerary ended in Antigua. Again, a bit of advance planning is needed here as most flights don’t leave until the evening. If you don’t want to spend the day carting luggage around, book a day pass to one of the resorts. The Gunpowder Suites, a boutique hotel at the UNESCO-protected Nelson’s Dockyard at English Harbour, was just the ticket: it presented a chance to admire the 18th-century dockyard, built by the Royal Navy, and bask by a pool and tuck into the included lunch before heading to the airport. It was the best possible way to stretch the superyacht lifestyle out for just one more day. CT
EMERALD SAKARA IN THE CARIBBEAN
Top billing
The Sky Deck ( left) and its hot tub on Emerald Sakara.
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JBL Endurance Race TWS, $119.95.
Eugenia Kim hat, $688.
Caribbean
Magda Butrym swimsuit, $831. Birkenstock Arizona suede sandals, $188.
Trunk show Nekton mask and snorkel set, $124.
Corridor shirt, $390.
MR P. regenerated suede loafers, $452.
Miguelina guipure lace kaftan, $1643.
Rhude T-Shirt, $483. La DoubleJ silk-twill shirt and pants, $1200 ea.
Loewe + Paula’s Ibiza tote, $1402.
Missoni pants, $1540.
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DISNEY without kids
Surrounded by costumed cast members and sugar-fuelled children, Jane Knight tries to have a grown-up holiday on a Disney Cruise.
Grown-ups’ time
Fireworks at sea; games of shuffleboard (above left); drinks on Disney Fantasy (left).
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on’t get me wrong: I like Toy Story as much as the next parent. But the Hey Howdy Breakfast, with a singing guitarist striking up a chord every five minutes, and Woody, Jessie and Bullseye dancing as we tucked into waffles shaped like Mickey Mouse wasn’t my idea of fun. “It’s a bit much at this time of the morning,” my sister Susie said, eyeing a pensioner dressed in his Woody outfit who knew all the words to “You’ve Got a Friend in Me”. Like us, he was on this Disney cruise unaccompanied by children. Wait – a Disney cruise without children? What sane-minded adult would do that? Quite a few, it seems. Years ago, on a magical Disney voyage with my over-excited four-year-old son, we had been surprised at the number of grown-ups setting sail with Mickey but without kids. Nor were they all diehard Disney fans with Mickey tattoos (though we spotted those, too). 71
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DISNEY CRUISE LINE’S DISNEY FANTASY
Adults only, please
From top: French-inspired dining at Remy; the multi-level Quiet Cove Pool with bar.
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Now Susie and I were on a week-long Caribbean voyage to see if Disney Cruise Line really could deliver for adults only. As we set sail from Florida’s Port Canaveral with costumed characters on the main deck and the funnel playing “When You Wish Upon a Star”, I wondered what we’d let ourselves in for. Throughout the cruise, this central hub of the ship was more mad-ship than midship. Disney movies played full blast on the “funnel vision”, riders in inflatables hurtled around the tube waterslide above the pools (one shaped like Mickey’s head), deck parties came and went, and children queued for ice creams, burgers and soda.
Yet beyond the screen at one end of the deck, an air of calm reigned around the adults-only pool. A staff member distributed cold towels to guests lying serenely in and around the pool; others wallowed in the hot tub, gazing at the waves through the glass floor. It was as if the Child Catcher from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang had done the rounds. Our ship, the 4000-passenger Disney Fantasy, also had other child-free zones, including a clutch of bars and lounges, a nightclub and pub, two gourmet restaurants and a dreamy spa. It was here that we joined Stephanie from Kansas City in the on-deck hot tub. She too was travelling child-free with her sister. The reason? “It’s just the best cruise line,” she enthused. “And it has the best medical care for diabetics – my sister is badly diabetic.” While the pair of them spent most of their time in the spa, the wildly expensive treatment prices put us off. We went instead to wine tasting in the elegant Oh La La Bar, where Alison and Russell from North Carolina told us they also preferred Disney to other cruise lines they had tried. “It’s not a party cruise,” Alison said, ignoring the nearby table of adults dressed up for the pirate party that evening. “We’re here for the service, the food and the atmosphere.” I saw what she meant as we settled in and sailed south. Because your waiters move around the ship’s restaurants with you, they get to know your personal preferences, building up quite a rapport as the cruise progresses.
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Disney in Oz
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isney Cruise Line’s Disney Wonder will be heading back to Australia in late 2024 for a second season. The 11-deck ship underwent a complete refurbishment in 2019 and has three swimming pools, including a kids’ water splash and play area, plus a double looping waterslide. Additionally, there’s an outdoor basketball court and ping pong tables for sporty days in the sun, while the luxe Senses Spa & Salon is the perfect escape for some adult R&R. Meanwhile, if you’re looking for a little extra indulgence, the exclusive Concierge-level staterooms and suites offer next-level luxury and a host of benefits. Then there are the special touches that you won’t find on any other ship. Get a hug from Mickey Mouse, have tea with Cinderella and save the day with Spider-Man. Moreover, sing along with some of your favourite Disney tunes in blockbuster live musicals and dance the night
away at rollicking, themed deck parties. Furthermore, the crew work hard to sprinkle pixie dust on every aspect of your cruise. With Disney’s signature service, it makes for a voyage like no other.
5 reasons to cruise with Disney Cruise Line in Australia
There are so many reasons why you need to be on a Disney cruise, however, here are our top five: 1. Enjoy showstopping Broadway-style entertainment. 2. Have unforgettable encounters with beloved Disney characters from Mickey and Minnie to Star Wars legends. 3. Experience dining that combines delicious food with signature Disney storytelling, live music and interactive entertainment. 4. There is fun for everyone with areas for family get-togethers, dedicated kids’ clubs and secluded adults-only retreats. 5. Spread out in spacious staterooms and suites to suit the whole family, including multigenerational groups.
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he food is good, sometimes great. Our first meal, at the Versailles-inspired Enchanted Garden, proved so tasty with its tuna tower, lobster ravioli and caramelised scallop, that Susie was surprised to find we were not in one of the specialty restaurants. The after-dinner shows were of West End standard. And the decor everywhere was pleasingly Art Deco rather than in-your-face Disney. Instead, there were little touches, such as Mickey’s hand indicating which floor the lift had reached, and cutouts of Mickey’s head at the bottom of the lampshade in our cosy-for-four but spacious-for-two cabin. After two days at sea, we arrived in the Virgin Islands, ready for an excursion on Tortola. Apart from cocktail tasting, there were no adults-only trips on our cruise, so we opted for a fun four-byfour jeep tour, driving up and down a rollercoaster of a road to ear-popping heights and a 360-degree viewpoint. The next day in St Thomas, we snorkelled with turtles on an excursion that frankly would have benefited from being adults only – some parents couldn’t control their children around the poor creatures. Crush the turtle (a character from Finding Nemo) fared better at the Pixar Day at Sea, with his own deck party. I didn’t, though – this was the day I was Disney shamed. When I asked a little girl who a dog character was meant to be, her father looked at me with disdain before saying through curled lip: “It’s Dug from Up.” Doh! Cruise&Travel
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Fun for all ages
From top: Pixar Day at Sea; family dining at the Animator’s Palate.
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Voyage
DISNEY CRUISE LINE’S DISNEY FANTASY
“WE COULDN’T RESIST MAKING A SPLASH ON THE AQUA DUCK WATERSLIDE.”
Just a Fantasy
From top: Disney’s private island in the Bahamas, Castaway Cay; Pirate Night; Sweet on You’s sundaes.
There was a whole new level of Disney fandom on show here, with families competing to wear the best fancy dress – respect to the one who portrayed the characters from Inside Out – and others racing their crawling babies in Jack-Jack’s Incredible Diaper Dash (yes, really). Meanwhile, Susie and I found ourselves embracing our inner children in a different way. We couldn’t resist making a splash on the Aqua Duck waterslide, and we enjoyed a detective mystery through interactive pictures around the ship. We even turned up at dinner wearing Minnie Mouse headbands. Disney characters came and went – we jumped at the chance for a picture with Chip and Dale when we realised there wasn’t a queue, and later bumped into Cinderella on the stairs (shoe still on). Too soon, the last full day of our cruise arrived, along with my 58th birthday. And what a place to spend it! We disembarked at Disney’s private island in the Bahamas, Castaway Cay, and headed for the adults-only Serenity Bay, where I snorkelled through huge shoals of fish to spot a smattering of starfish lying on the seabed. Back on board in the evening, there was a delicious tasting menu matched by a flight of wine at the elegant Remy (after the movie Ratatouille). And yes, I got a birthday snap with Mickey Mouse. It was all, to my great surprise, an absolute delight. You clearly don’t need kids to enjoy a Disney cruise – though you might want to steer clear of the Hey Howdy Breakfast. CT Jane Knight was a guest of Walt Disney Travel Company International. Three-night cruises from Port Canaveral on Disney Fantasy start at $3005 for two guests. See: disneycruise. disney.go.com/cruises-destinations/list/#disney-fantasy
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Adidas Originals suede sneakers, $188.
Dries Van Noten satin shorts, $919.
Bode Harbor hair clip, $485.
A Disney cruise
Trunk show
Fossil watch, $779.
Celine Homme 06 sunnies, $660.
La DoubleJ skirt, $1500.
Aquazzura raffia tote, $1710.
Loewe + Paula’s polo, $2240.
Porter Yoshida & Co backpack, $850.
Alessandra Rich silk dress, $3510.
Minnie Mouse sweathshirt, $59.99.
Bode Rodeo shirt, $1068.
Christopher John Rogers gown, $8463.
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TRUE LUXURY ADVENTURES IN EUROPE Europe is a treasure trove of captivating cities, timeless art, rich culture, stunning coastlines and idyllic rural landscapes — each country with its own unique flavours, history, heritage and architecture. Experience a cultural immersion in glorious Spain and Portugal, a culinary and wine journey around France, or a relaxed sojourn to the lyrical landscapes of Tuscany and the sun-drenched Italian Riviera. On an A&K European luxury journey, spend your days seeing history come alive as you discover the continent with A&K’s knowledgeable guides, trademark insider access experiences and round-the-clock support from local experts. No matter your dream, A&K can curate the perfect tailor-made European adventure just for you.
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This immersive tailor-made journey takes you from gorgeous Tuscany to the dazzling eastern coastline of the Italian Riviera. Visit artisanal food producers and magnificent walled towns such as San Gimignano, Pienza and Lucca, before exploring the photogenic, pastel-hued villages of the fabulous Cinque Terre.
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Escapes 78 Where the wealthy holiday | 92 Greenland | 96 Aboard the Vietage
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On safari in India
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Luxury
Where the wealthy one per cent spend their holidays – a month-by-month guide, by Aoife O’Riordain.
w Book for January A regenerative retreat in Austria (below) is a great start to the year.
hile some of us are trawling the internet to plan our two weeks somewhere hot, those who can afford it are safe in the knowledge that this year’s travels have already been sorted – by someone else. Welcome to the world of the one per cent of High Net Worth (HNW) travellers. Sun-sure winter options like the Caribbean, skiing in the Alps, an African safari and a few weeks in the Med are cornerstones of the mega-rich travel calendar. Perhaps they form a key part of your own. The difference is that their villa is more likely to come fully staffed with a chef, personal trainer, yoga teacher, tennis coach and masseuse. The wealthiest members of the one per cent don’t leave anything to chance, and their travel advisor is as important to them as their accountant. Scott Dunn Private is an invitation-
only offshoot of the luxury operator Scott Dunn, where clients get access to a private relationship manager to plan their year. “I will sit down with my guests and ‘travel map’ their year, or often two years ahead, working through the summer, the festive season and sometimes through to October 2025, as many of the family options at top lodges in South Africa’s Kruger National Park are already booked,” says Jules Maury, head of Scott Dunn Private. High-end operator Original Travel has reported a 250 per cent increase in enquiries for Norway, making it their bestselling destination after Italy and Greece. According to cofounder Tom Barber, “There are so many extreme adventures you can do in Norway, which tend to appeal to HNWs who like to push themselves in all areas of life”. For the one per cent, the lesser known and off-the-beaten track is on the up. George Morgan-Grenville, founder and chief executive of Red Savannah, says, “HNW clients tend to be incredibly well-informed and savvy travellers, very often at the vanguard of changing attitudes and trends.” When you are part of the travelling one per cent, the world really is your oyster. Here’s where they might go this year, depending on the month (and how you can join them). CT
Rich
PICKINGS
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January
wellness in Austria
• The crisp mountain air of the Austrian Alps is the backdrop of choice for regenerative retreats that offer inside-out, head-to-toe resets involving blood tests, holistic diagnoses and individualised daily therapy schedules of cryotherapy, psychology, yoga, hiking and differing levels of dietary denial. As the Duchess of York Sarah Ferguson’s recent visit testifies, the FX Mayr clinics in Austria – Vivamayr Maria Wörth and Mayrlife Altaussee – are firm favourites. Both adhere to their founder’s restrictive dietary programs devised to optimise digestion and stimulate the immune system – the daily Epsom salt gut cleanses are not for the faint-hearted. Programs last a minimum of seven days.
March
opulent hotels & ancient tombs in North Africa
February
winter warmth in Mustique
• As Kate Moss’s 50th birthday celebrations in January prove, the tiny private island of Mustique in the Caribbean never goes out of fashion. The Prince and Princess of Wales, Daniel Craig, Harry Styles and Jennifer Lopez have all enjoyed downtime here, while Tommy Hilfiger, Bryan Adams and Mick Jagger are among the high-profile owners of the 100 or so villas dotted around the island. The island’s old cotton warehouse, a gingerbread-style, Caribbean fever dream, is also home to The Cotton House hotel (above). True regulars give the busy Christmas and New Year period a swerve and go in February, when the weather is near perfect and you never quite know who you might find at the Sunday night sunset jazz at the legendary Basil’s Bar.
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• Morocco is the destinations of choice in North Africa. Marrakech has several luxury stalwarts like La Mamounia, while Richard Branson’s Kasbah Tamadot (above) in the Atlas Mountains recently reopened. For more off-the-beaten-track adventures, there is the newly opened La Fiermontina Ocean on the Atlantic Coast near Larache, Jasper Conran’s Villa Mabrouka in Tangier and the under-theradar Dar Ahlam in a remote location outside Skoura. Marrakech’s most opulent hotel, Royal Mansour, will open a sister property in a restored 1930s building in Casablanca this year.
April
cherry blossom in Japan
• The ethereal cherry-blossom spectacle (below) known as “hanami” is a highlight of the Japanese calendar and reaches its peak in late March and early April. The Unesco World Heritage-listed Ancient Kyoto, with its vast collection of temples and shrines, is a hanami hotspot. Japan has also seen a glut of luxury hotel openings recently, which will soon include Aman’s new brand Janu in Tokyo and the Six Senses Kyoto.
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Luxury
May
stardust in the south of France
• The south of France is always in favour with the A-list, who come for the same things as everyone else: art, culture and glittering scenery. The beach clubs in St Tropez are less crowded in late spring, the Cannes Film Festival sprinkles a bit of stardust on the Riviera, and petrol heads make for Monaco and the Formula One Grand Prix on the final Sunday of the month. The secluded Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc is a favourite, as is the newer Maybourne Riviera (above) in Roquebrune Cap-Martin and Villa La Coste on the art and wine-centric Château La Coste estate near Aix-en-Provence.
June
partying in the Hamptons
• With a glittering roster of occasional residents such as Gwyneth Paltrow, Stephen Spielberg and Ralph Lauren, the Hamptons, a string of historic villages on Long Island, is the stateside retreat de rigueur for the one per cent. The season kicks off on Memorial Day (this year on May 27) and June is the month of choice for insiders, who wouldn’t dream of holidaying there any time after July 4, when the narrow streets of Southampton, Bridgehampton, Sag Harbour and Amagansett are clogged with out-of-towners and you can’t get a parking space at the broad Atlantic beaches (below). It’s all about renting a house here and many get snapped up for the entire season so people can enjoy the endless merry-go-round of parties at the sprawling oceanside mansions.
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July
adventure in Norway
• Norway has been gaining ground as the retreat of choice for peak summer. It might be the Succession effect, as it was a location for the final series, or it might be the majestic beauty of the fjords, but the mega-wealthy, particularly those with children, can’t get enough of this outdoor playground. It’s also scattered with luxurious wilderness retreats like the Juvet Landscape Hotel (right) and the historic Hotel Union Oye in the Sunmore Alps, while the opening of the cutting-edge Six Senses Svart within the Norwegian Arctic Circle later this year will be another place to stay for bragging rights.
August
island hopping in Greece
• For many, August is still prime time to head to the Med. Greece is a must, although islands such as Mykonos and Santorini are increasingly being left to the Instagrammers and the day-tripping cruise passengers. Less touristy islands are proving more and more popular, hence the ever-increasing number of first-rate resorts popping up all over the Cyclades and beyond, such as The Rooster wellness and lifestyle resort on Antiparos, Parilio on Paros (left) , the soon-to-open One & Only Kea Island, Gundari on Folegandros and Odera on the trending island of Tinos. The Greek Islands are also sprinkled with high-end villas where every whim is catered for. Cruise &Travel
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November
diving in Raja Ampat
• Lying off West Papua is one of the remote frontiers of off-grid travel beloved of the ultra-wealthy. The only way to do Indonesia’s Raja Ampat is by chartering a traditional but luxuriously decked out two-masted sailboat called a “phinisi” to cruise around this archipelago of more than 1500 islands that extends across the Halmahera and Cerman seas. Unspoilt and very much under the radar, Raja Ampat is a place the megarich want to tick off their list for the superlative diving (above), jungle-blanketed islands and deserted beaches.
December skiing in Switzerland
September
lakeside luxury in Italy
• September is one of the most pleasant months to visit Italy. The hordes that descend on the most popular spots have abated and the high season heat has mellowed. The Lakes are always popular, and the one per cent gravitate to grande dame hotels such as the waterside Villa d’Est, Grand Hotel Tremezzo, its even swankier sister Passalacqua on Lake Como, and the Grand Hotel a Villa Feltrinelli (above) on Lake Garda. The rugged peaks of the Dolomites are increasingly requested, while Hotel Castello di Reschio in Umbria was an instant hit with the money-is-no-object crowd. A raft of luxurious openings in Rome include the Six Senses Rome, Bulgari Hotel Roma and The Rome Edition.
October
• Switzerland remains the most soughtafter setting of choice for a festive season on the slopes (right). For many, St Moritz ticks all the boxes, with snow-sure slopes, chocolate-box good looks, luxury shopping, plus a lively apres-ski scene. Its Cresta Run, which was first opened in 1884 by the St Moritz Tobogganing Club, is also popular with adrenaline junkies. Heli-skiing – where you reach the top of the mountain by helicopter – is also favoured by the elite and in abundance here. The status of St Moritz is gilded by a clutch of luxurious grand hotels, such as Badrutt’s Palace, the Kulm Hotel and the slope-side Suvretta House.
wildlife watching in Botswana
• For a safari, Botswana tops the list – offering smaller crowds, superlative game-viewing opportunities (right) and ultra-luxe micro lodges with just a couple of rooms. It is home to the Okavango Delta, which fills with floodwaters between May and October and teems with wildlife. Those looking for a private safari experience can take over a small camp or safari house, giving them exclusive access to the on-site guides and the ability to dictate their own schedule. Xigera Safari Lodge was one of the country’s most eagerly anticipated recent openings, while Atzaro, Tawana in the Moremi Game Reserve, and Karangoma in the north-eastern corner of the Okavango are among new arrivals coming in 2024. Cruise&Travel
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3/6/2024 2:25 pm
My Life In Travel
DAME JUDI DENCH
“The only place on Earth that left me speechless.” Sarah Marshall sits down with Dame Judi Dench to talk about Borneo.
S
urrounded by some of the world’s tallest trees, whose shoots first sprouted more than 1000 years ago, anyone would feel dwarfed by Borneo’s rainforests. Eighty-nine-year-old Dame Judi Dench is no exception – and her sense of awe and wonder is almost childlike. “It takes your breath away,” she says, staring up at a tangled canopy in the Danum Valley, so dense that only shards of light can break through. “It’s not like anything I’ve ever experienced before.” In a region ravaged by logging and palm oil plantations, the protected lowland dipterocarp forest in the Malaysian-governed province of Sabah is a pristine biodiverse wilderness teeming with species. It’s an appropriate setting for the great dame’s popular TV documentary, Judi Dench’s Wild Borneo Adventure, which celebrates the magic and splendour of the world’s third-largest island through the eyes of a veteran actress who still has an admirable appetite to discover more. Dame Judi’s love of arboreal environments was first highlighted in the documentary My Passion For Trees; she planted at tree in memory of her late husband Michael Williams in a private Surrey woodland, and refers to the green giants as “part of my extended family”. So when offered the opportunity to climb a 76-metre tree in Borneo, she couldn’t resist. Describing the experience of being strapped into a harness and hoisted skyward, she claims: “I wasn’t remotely nervous at all! We had all these wonderful people hauling us up there.” But asked what it was like to be up in the clouds, she hesitates and gives an obvious question the answer it deserves: “It was tall.” It’s these irreverent and light-hearted observations that make Dame Judi’s narration really rather charming. It’s hard not to be swept away by her passion for a place where even insects are put on a pedestal – quite rightly, given that one-tenth of the world’s species can be found in Borneo.
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A dung beetle that captures her imagination is nicknamed “Bob”, and the symphony of cicadas – a sound she can’t believe is made by “someone rubbing their legs together” – becomes her daily six o’clock soundtrack. One of her favourite moments during filming, she later recalls, involved an encounter with a stick insect. “I said, ‘Oh that’s charming,’ and it went and sat straight on top of my head.”
“I don’t believe in going to a country and seeing the poverty people live in and saying you can’t do this,” she insists. “We joined a fantastic group of grandmothers, mothers and daughters who were replanting trees between rainforest and logged plantation to create a wildlife corridor.” Proud of her own contributions, she adds: “We planted three trees!” While on the island, she and Mills spent time with scientists and researchers from the South East Asia Rainforest Research Partnership (SEARRP), a charity facilitating vital research projects concerning environmental issues in the tropics. Impressed by both their interest in Borneo and an understanding of underlying issues affecting the area, the charity’s director, Glen Reynolds, invited the couple to become patrons. Referring to her trip as “the most extraordinary time of my life”, Dame Judi was thrilled by the invitation to become a rainforest ambassador. “I’ve been to a lot of places in the world, but I’ve never been to anywhere like that,” she says, wistfully. “It’s wildly beyond your imagination.” Aside from the arboreal and entomological attractions, she was also bowled over by the jungle’s larger animal inhabitants.
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ather than roughing it in the jungle, Dame Judi opted for the high-end, eco-friendly Gaya Island Resort, set within Sabah’s Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, with views of the South China Sea and Mount Kinabalu. Along with the man she refers to as her “chap”, conservationist David Mills, who also appears in the program, she stayed in a canopy villa, perched on a mangrove-clustered hillside. She prefers not to dwell on negatives, but doesn’t downplay the impact of deforestation in Borneo. That notwithstanding, she remains upbeat about the island’s future. Cruise &Travel
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Jungle attraction
Clockwise from left: Dame Judi Dench was in awe of Borneo’s orangutans, sun bears and elephants.
“In two weeks, we met orang-utans, elephants, crocodiles, dung beetles, moths, macaque monkeys. It was like an enormous dinner with endless courses of wonderful things,” she says. Along with participating in a rare release of orphaned sun bears at a sanctuary in Sepilok, she had a chance to hand-feed carrots to orphaned bull elephants. “They were like joshing boys pushing each other, falling into the muddy water,” she says. “A small elephant came up to me and I was told, ‘Don’t worry, he’ll take it from your hand.’ Well, he scoffed it,” she exclaims, screwing up her nose and mimicking the greedy creature. One character she wasn’t so eager to meet was a crocodile, although an encounter was inevitable on a night boat ride along the Kinabatangan river, when she accompanied a team of researchers hoping to collect DNA samples from the reptile’s bony scales, known as scutes. Shuddering at the memory of scientist Kerisha Kntayya plucking a baby croc from the water, she explains: “Everyone was pointing and shouting, ‘Look at that!’ Well, thank God Cruise &Travel
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I’m short-sighted, that’s all I can say.” Hearing it “call for its mother” – which, Mills adds, could have been up to six metres long – she only felt comfortable once the croc had been safely muzzled and tagged. “I got to hold its foot,” she whispers. “A soft palm – it was very, very nice.” As tactile encounters go, it was certainly remarkable, but it pales in comparison to the moment that she got to hold hands with an orang-utan. Having already adopted three of the endangered great apes before her trip, she was familiar with the species. Yet meeting threeyear-old orphan Bahagia (meaning happy) was a “never-to-be-forgotten” experience. “It was the most extraordinary thing. This tiny little orang-utan didn’t take my hand immediately,” she says, describing the orphan’s initial hesitation before placing his hand in hers. “It was like a child looking at me.” Eyes drifting off, for a few seconds she’s rendered uncharacteristically speechless. But her expression – still full of that same awe and wonder – says it all. CT 85
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Travel Trends
“I
f you’re a chief executive being paid five million pounds a year, then losing just one day to jet lag will cost the company tens of thousands – or more,” says Matteo Atti cooly, unphased by such extraordinary figures. “That’s why in-flight wellness isn’t indulgence: it’s an investment. You need to be in good shape to meet your investors, or to shake on that billiondollar deal.” While the rest of us make do with eye masks and neck pillows, private-jet passengers have a vast array of gizmos and advisors to help them hop between time zones. In-flight menus designed by nutritionists, on-board double beds with memory-foam mattresses, pre-departure IV drips to boost rehydration: in Atti’s world, these are all de rigeur. And as chief marketing officer of VistaJet, the world’s second-largest private aviation provider, he doesn’t just have first-hand experience of this way of life – he’s driving it forward. We met on a grey March morning at Farnborough Airport, one of the UK’s busiest private aviation hubs – and not even the lashing rain could dampen its runway’s ritz. Gulfstreams, Embraers, Cessnas: these sleek, multimillion-dollar aircraft rested on the apron, poised to whisk the jet set to Geneva, Dubai, Aspen and beyond. But the most eye-catching of all was VistaJet’s Bombardier Global 7500, the
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How the
SUPER-RICH BEAT JET LAG It’s a money-no-object wellness service whose frequent flyers include George Clooney, the Obamas and Taylor Swift. Step inside VistaJet with Hazel Plush.
largest purpose-built private jet in existence, dubbed the “Ferrari of the skies” by those in the know. Its RRP is US$75m (AU$113m), and VistaJet has 18 in its fleet – the world’s biggest single collection – available for US$25,000 (AU$38,650) per hour, the flagship of its membership-based charter offering. The company’s client list is equally eye-popping: the Clooneys, the Obamas and the Beckhams have all been spotted emerging from its silver-and-red livery in recent years. Taylor Swift even reportedly used a VistaJet plane to fly from Tokyo to the Super Bowl in Las Vegas in February, grabbing even bigger headlines than the game itself.
/ Food fit for F1 champions
You might think that if you cross the globe while snoozing in the Global 7500’s double bed, or reclining in its ergonomic “zero gravity” leather seats, you’ll land at your destination feeling pretty sharp. “But what if you could arrive feeling better than you did when you left?” pondered Atti rhetorically, a smooth segue to VistaJet’s new wellbeing program, devised with the expertise of nutritionists, physicians and other health experts – the first of its kind in the aviation world. “We start with a 90-minute pre-flight consultation,” explained Jenna Daou, the company’s private dining specialist and a trained dietician. “I learn about the Cruise &Travel
5/6/2024 11:50 am
members’ lifestyle, tastes, medical history and dietary requirements, creating a profile which I use to curate menus for all of their flights.” No time for a consultation? Daou has also devised sample menus, including a Performance Athlete menu created in collaboration with F1 champion Charles Leclerc. Think grilled chicken, vegetables, salmon, wholegrains – the kind of food your GP recommends. VistaJet flies Ferrari’s drivers around the world – “and they’re very particular about what they eat,” says Daou, smiling. Alternatively, the Rejuvenate menu features ingredients laden with probiotics, collagen and antioxidants – such as beetroot juice and fermented foods. The Revitalize menu includes iron-rich organic filet mignon served rare, with raw spinach and watercress.
/ Buddhism, baths and ‘biohacking’
VistaJet’s billionaire founder and chairman Thomas Flohr reportedly spends more than 200 days every year in flight, travelling between his homes all over the world – as well as those of his daughter Nina, who married into Greek and Danish royalty. His aircrafts’ range is equally vast: since 2004, VistaJet’s fleet has flown to 2400 airports across 96 per cent of all countries. “And we thought to ourselves, this puts the world’s greatest wellness treatments at our fingertips,” says Atti, Cruise &Travel
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handing me a weighty brochure entitled Private World. Its pages are filled with extraordinary in-destination experiences: think helicopter rides to Everest base camp for guided meditation with Buddhist monks – or “biohacking” at Six Senses Ibiza, featuring cryotherapy (extreme coldness) and hyperbaric oxygen therapy, both typically used by top athletes to aid muscle recovery. If flying to Mexico, you could join a cacao ceremony, a “euphoric experience” rooted in Mayan and Aztec rituals, the brochure explains – which involves drinking pure cacao while “engaging in meditation, ecstatic dance and breathwork”. In Costa Rica, “sound bath” healing uses the vibrations of Tibetan singing bowls to “clear excess negative energy” after your journey, while in India, mangal snãn (meaning “auspicious bath”) entails oil anointments and massages – all accompanied by live musicians, a ritual historically performed on royalty.
/ Inflight yoga and ‘daylight simulation’
True to the brand, the Global 7500 also sports a wealth of ways to lessen air travel’s toll. I snooped inside the airy aircraft – all soft leather and polished wood, with huge windows and touchscreen temperature controls for every seat. The cabin’s “daylight simulation” lighting system uses set wavelengths to
The VistaJet experience
Clockwise, from left: A Bombardier Challenger 350 jet; Guerlain toiletries; the Milos Lobster salad; a “Cabin Host”; mocktails before dinner; touchdown.
synchronise its passengers’ circadian rhythms with their destination’s timezone, and it is pressurised to mimic the altitude at 4000 feet: more forgiving environs than commercial planes’ usual 8000 feet. “When you land, it feels like you’ve barely been anywhere; no bloating, no tiredness,” says Naomie Shortt, one of the cabin crew – or “Cabin Host” in VistaJet parlance. I peeked into the bedroom, with its high-thread-count sheets and built-in library, and wondered if Clooney had ever dribbled into its hypoallergenic pillows. Cashmere socks, cotton pyjamas, bespoke face creams and serums by premium brand Guerlain are all provided in-flight, as well as yoga mats, massage balls and rollers (there’s more than enough room in the cabin for an inflight ashtanga session). I had to suppress a laugh at the four-disc yoga DVD, a rather noughties throwback – provided in case you can’t stream a workout from your phone. It’s all so noble, so at odds with the rock’n’roll private-jet lifestyle. When did the 1 per cent get so wholesome? “The jet set has a reputation for excess, but that’s wholly inaccurate,” says Atti. “Once you’ve tasted the best champagnes, you’ve tasted them all: it becomes dull, doesn’t it? But with wellness, the possibilities – and benefits – are endless.” CT 87
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On Safari
INDIA’S WILD WEST 88
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Cruise &Travel
3/6/2024 12:57 pm
In search of a big cat experience beyond the tigers of Rajasthan, with seasoned India expert Chris Caldicott.
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Animal kingdom
Left: Asiatic lions, Gir National Park. Above: On safari in Kaziranga National Park.
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s the jeep weaved its way along the sandy forest tracks of India’s Sasan Gir National Park, the early morning sunlight splintered the canopy of the broad-leaved teak trees above us. Emerging from the forest into a grassland clearing bathed in the golden light of dawn, the shrill alarm calls from chital deer and barks of langur monkeys interrupted the chorus of bulbuls, alerting Ankit, my naturalist guide, to the chance that we may be close to spotting one of the park’s big cat apex predators. Uniquely, it was not a sighting of a Bengal tiger that we were hoping for, but a rare Asiatic lion. The vast teak forests and grasslands of Gujarat’s wild west are the last places on Earth where prides of wild lions roam in a natural habitat beyond the borders of Africa. We heard the sound of leaves crunching slowly underfoot and discerned the undefined shape of a beast strolling towards the edge of the forest. As it moved closer, the dappled camouflage protection of the trees faded to reveal a magnificent fully maned adult male lion walking with nonchalant muscular confidence straight towards us. He gave us a cursory glance and a faint guttural purr as he passed the jeep, then headed down the sandy track, leading us onwards. We followed at a discreet distance and were rewarded for our patience – he led us straight to his pride. Cubs played like kittens among the sand dunes while the older females reclined in a circle around them. By the time we returned to our lodge, I had had close encounters with 20 Asiatic lions – all before breakfast. Asiatic lions evolved separately from their African relatives for thousands of years and Ankit diligently pointed out the subtle differences between the species. As with elephants, Asiatic lions are smaller than their African cousins. They also feature a prominent fold of skin the length of the abdomen and the males have rather less luxuriant manes that don’t quite cover the tops of their heads or ears. Two thousand years ago, their habitat stretched all the way from the Levant and Persia to Central India, but none have been seen outside India for centuries. By 1900, they had been hunted 89
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On Safari
Where to go in India... for Leopards: Aravali Hills
• This is the best place to see wild Indian leopards in a desert environment with the huge advantage of not being a national park, so there is unlimited access day and night including walking safaris, night drives and off-road trails. The sublime Suján Jawai offers an African level of luxury glamping and works with local Rabari villagers as guides. Leopard sightings are almost guaranteed as the predators emerge at dawn and dusk to survey the granite boulder-strewn surreal landscape between traditional pastoral villages for potential prey. Several species of rare birds, deer, crocodile and porcupine also populate the wilderness. Stay: Suján Jawai camp, Jawai Bandh, Rajasthan. Abercrombie & Kent’s 16-day tour Icons & Hidden Treasures of Northern India (from $13,030 per person) spends two nights at the camp. Suján Jawai is closed from May to September.
for Rhinos: Kaziranga National Park
• Another ‘out of Africa’ yet essentially Asian wildlife experience can be had at Kaziranga in India’s northeastern state of Assam, a home of the endangered great Indian one-horned ‘unicorn’ rhinoceros. The sight of a mother and calf emerging from the vast expanse of tall elephant grass marshland on a misty morning is unforgettable. Kaziranga is one of the last parks in India where elephant-back safaris
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are still on the menu, allowing visitors to move slowly and almost silently among the wildlife. Jeep and boat safari options are also available. As well as rhinos, herds of Indian elephants, wild water buffalo, swamp deer, gharial crocodiles and occasionally even Bengal tigers can be seen on the dawn and dusk safaris. Stay: Book into Diphlu River Lodge where an all-inclusive package of safaris and meals costs from $345 per person, per night. Alternatively, Intrepid Travel’s 16-day India Expedition: Sikkim, Assam & Nagaland tour (from $4245 per person) spends two days exploring the park and staying in local hotels.
for Bengal Tigers: Ranthambore National Park
• This is one of the most renowned national parks in Northern India and the perfect base from which to explore the territory of the majestic Bengal tiger. Embark on a safari adventure in search of the tigers as well as leopards, deer, wild boar, striped hyena, monkeys and sloth bears, not to mention an orchestra of birdlife. Tigers are most commonly sighted during May and June. Stay: The luxury tented accommodation at The Oberoi Vanyavilas, Ranthambore National Park. On Abercrombie & Kent’s 12-day tour The Golden Triangle & Beyond (from $10,520 per person) you stay two nights at the jungle resort and take early morning and afternoon private game drives in an exclusive jeep.
almost to extinction, with just one single pride remaining in Sasan Gir. An effort to save the species began when the Nawab of Junagadh turned his hunting grounds in Sasan Gir into India’s first wildlife sanctuary. The state government took this over in 1972 when it became necessary to help relocate the hamlets (or “nesses”) of the local semi-nomadic Maldhari cattle herders away from the ever-increasing number of lions. Since then the project has been a roaring conservation success, and the lions have regained most of their lost territory, with the latest census in 2020 confirming a population of 674. I had tried to see Asiatic lions on two previous visits to Sasan Gir, but – despite their increasing numbers – had failed both times. The chaotic and unfathomable system of issuing permits for safaris had defeated me, and the accommodation options had been shabby and limited. So I was pleased to find that the park management had vastly improved. I was equally delighted by the newly opened Aramness Lodge, right on the edge of the park, which proved to not only be a breath of fresh air in this wild corner of the world, but a complete game-changer in the realms of India’s luxury safari offering. Ankit accompanied me on all of my game drives in a comfortable open-top Bandolier safari jeep. To my delight, I discovered that there were three slots to choose from for the daily game drives: a pre-dawn morning departure, a post-breakfast 9:30am option, or the late afternoon sundowner safari. On the drives, it wasn’t just potential sightings of the hot-ticket Asiatic lions that we scoured the landscape for; Indian leopards are prolific in Cruise &Travel
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GUJARAT, WESTERN INDIA
“Aramness Lodge proved to be a complete game-changer in the realms of India’s luxury safari offering.” Sasan Gir, and more likely to be seen returning from a nocturnal hunt on the dawn drive. There are also substantial populations of herbivores, such as chital and sambar deer, nilgai antelope and wild boar, all of which are prey for the big cats. Indian safari offers a very different experience to its African equivalent. Sightings of tigers, leopards or, in this case, lions, are never guaranteed on a single game drive, so they require a different mindset. Where Africa is full of sweeping plains and protected land, in crowded India, game parks offer a very rare experience of the country’s natural wilderness, rich with indigenous flora and fauna. This alone can be a valid reason to visit, yet however hard you try not to be “big-cat-centric”, there is bound to be a sense of disappointment if they remain elusive. In most parks, just a single sighting of a tiger or leopard makes for a very good day, so my multiple lion sightings in just two game drives left me feeling rather smug. And between these drives, it was no hardship to indulge in the pleasures of Aramness, which provides an Indian safari lodge experience in a league of its own; more on par with one you may expect to find in Botswana, rather than the sub-continent. The lodge’s 18 two-storey suites, referred to as kothis, are spread along a winding lane and were inspired by the architecture and layout of a Maldhari ness (settlement), with Cruise&Travel
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Top Gir
From left to right: Indian rhinoceros; Aramness’s dining, lodge and pool; Bengal tiger.
each promising a clean-line contemporary, minimalist design. They have an indoor-outdoor feel, with upstairs verandas, courtyards and plunge pools (very welcome after a dusty dawn safari). Shared areas include elegant lounges, a library, spa, infinity pool and plenty of lovely hand-carved sandstone jali screens that cast a pleasing dappled light. Yet such abundant luxury comes at a high price, so after a couple of days, I moved on to the nearby Postcard Gir lodge. At around half the price, it nevertheless proved to be a worthy alternative to Aramness. The 15 villa rooms are airy, set among the mango orchids and organic vegetable and spice gardens that provide the kitchen with zero-mile ingredients. As I sat on my final morning, tucking into a breakfast of hot rotla rotis served with warm ghee, roasted chillis and jaggery, I felt a great sense of privilege. Few foreign tourists make it this far off the well-beaten tracks of Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh – but they really should. Sasan Gir offers a whole new way to experience majestic big cats in the wild, but beyond that, it offers a whole new way to safari, too. Attracting large family groups of locals – who club together to share a jeep, complete with babes in arms and toddlers, for a fun day out – there is a far greater sense of inclusivity here, a sense that these beautiful creatures are for everyone. And in my book, that can only be a good thing. CT 91
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Journey
We want the crowds, says lonely winter wonderland “Over-touristed”? Not here. Greenland is on a mission to attract travellers, writes Steph Dyson.
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Green and eerie
The aurora borealis reveals itself.
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e’re already late, we might as well add a few more minutes to the tour,” Kjeld, my guide announced, turning the steering wheel sharply to the right and veering off the dirt road. There was a collective sharp intake of breath followed by an uneasy silence as the bus glided across the frozen lake. We came to a standstill directly above a visible crack. I asked nervously how thick the ice was. “Somewhere between one and two metres,” he told me, my expression turning from concern to horror as I wondered how long a 10ton bus would last on such a shallow bed of ice. “It’s around two metres to the bottom of the lake,” he clarified, with a grin, assuring me that he pulls this trick every tour. “I try to make everyone scream. It doesn’t always work though!” Driving over a frozen lake was the first of many unexpected interactions with nature on my trip to the Danish territory of Greenland, a land whose natural riches are as vast as its tourist numbers are small. Only around 107,000 tourists land on Greenlandic soil each year, making for a unique situation:
unlike countries struggling with overtourism, Greenland is desperate for visitors. With just one airport and no two towns connected by road, travel in Greenland is a challenge, however. The former American military base of Kangerlussuaq is the only airport in the country with a runway fit for jetliners, while domestic flights and, in summer, cruise ships, are the main means of navigating an island blanketed almost entirely by the Greenland Ice Sheet. But change is afoot. A runway extension in the capital, Nuuk, is set to be completed by the end of the year, followed by a 2025 airport upgrade in the northern town of Ilulissat. Both will increase the frequency of commercial flights from Europe, meaning Greenland is set to become far more accessible. My winter trip had opened in Kangerlussuaq – population 500 – where I headed, via a detour onto a frozen lake, to Point 660. It’s here that Greenland’s longest 93
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Journey
How to get there
• Adventure Canada has been sailing to Greenland since 1991 and specialises in small-ship expedition cruises, with Greenlanders employed on its expedition team to provide authentic insight into the islanders’ way of life. Its 13-day “Iceland to Greenland: In the Wake of the Vikings” cruise costs from about $8175 per person, including all meals and excursions.
GREENLAND road, a pocket-sized 51 kilometres of gravel, reaches the most accessible part of the ice sheet. Year-round, tours take you onto the ice for a slippery clamber over ridges polished by the wind to form fish-like scales. In summer, you can camp on the ice sheet; in winter, you would probably rather not, as temperatures can drop to -50°C. Traditional Inuit culture is another of Greenland’s big draws. Eighty per cent of the population identifies as Inuit and while most Greenlanders now favour allterrain vehicles (ATVs), dog sledding remains a form of transport used by communities in the Arctic Circle when the rivers and fjords freeze. For tourists, it’s an opportunity for a husky-driven thrill ride. Early the next morning – swaddled in thick sealskin trousers and a matching hoodie – I joined 12 pumped-up dogs to travel from Kangerlussuaq down the frozen Qinnguata Kuussua River to the point where it drains into the fjord. Using a monkey-like hoot command, musher Francisca turned on the acceleration and we took off at speed, led by the pack leader Silka, whose scarred snout suggested a rough journey to the top. Within seconds, we were gliding smoothly across the ice, a howl of fluffy white bottoms and tails pulling us ahead. Greenland has about 15,000 sled dogs, many of whom participate in the country’s national sledding championships every March, while tourists keen to try their hand at mushing can study for a licence here. It isn’t a cheap hobby, though. Francisca’s 30 huskies wolf down 100 kilos of food per week, fuel that sees them reach speeds of up to 40 kilometres per hour. “Although we’re only doing about 14,” Francisca admitted, as her dogs defaulted to more of a Sunday stroll than a high-octane sprint. That night, I was keen to encounter perhaps the country’s most impressive natural attraction. With an average of 300 cloud-free days a year, Kangerlussuaq is one of the best places in the Arctic to see the northern lights. This year is predicted to be one of abundance for the aurora borealis, when solar activity reaches an 11-year peak. Mother Nature had other ideas, however. After an hour of standing in -20°C temperatures, I was met with a faint grey glow that only revealed its green hues when captured on camera. In a misplaced attempt to cheer me up, my guide passed me a video of dancing greens and reds – a celestial light show recorded a few days previously. The final stage of my trip was to head south to Nuuk, but a snowstorm battering the capital pushed my flight back by a day, and I arrived in a whiteout. Ironically dubbed “Nuuk York” by locals, this is Greenland’s largest city – although, with just 18,000 residents, it’s hardly a busy metropolis. Instead, the capital is charming and walkable, with streets lined by welcoming cafés and boutiques selling modern Inuit crafts, and a dramatic location beneath knife-edged Sermitsiaq Mountain. 94
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Land of the Inuits
From top: Nuuk, capital of Greenland; Disko Bay in West Greenland.
It’s surrounded on three sides by the second-largest fjord system in the world, Nuup Kangerlua Fjord, where skyscraper-sized icebergs bob in summer. This fjord leads to many of the area’s star attractions, so I headed north to Qoornoq Island by boat. Against a backdrop of thigh-deep snow and heavily dusted mountains, the village’s houses in bold primary colours looked straight out of a fairytale, but the settlement has a dark history. In the 1970s, Denmark’s controversial G60 policy forced Inuit communities such as this one to relocate to cities, leaving their homes to fall into disrepair. Many have since been reclaimed by relatives to become remote, off-grid summer houses, but in a snowstorm it felt like nature was attempting to take them back again. As my time in Nuuk drew to a close, I wasn’t optimistic that the 36-seater propeller plane to Iceland for my onward transport to London would take off. Nuuk’s coastal location makes its weather far less settled than in Kangerlussuaq – so it remains to be seen whether the elements might throw a spanner in the works of the country’s lofty tourism expansion plans. Against the odds, my flight did depart and, as the plane cleared the clouds, my parting gift was the green glow of the aurora along the horizon. Travelling in Greenland is about giving yourself up to the whims of nature; if you’re willing to accept that the country’s unpredictability is an enormous part of its charm, then you certainly won’t be disappointed. CT Cruise &Travel
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“Early the next morning – swaddled in thick sealskin trousers and a matching hoodie – I joined 12 pumped-up dogs to travel from Kangerlussuaq down the frozen Qinnguata Kuussua River.”
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Journey
With the sort of perks that normally set you back thousands, the Vietage traverses Vietnam in utter luxury for less than $500, writes Qin Xie.
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Luxe-forless express
here was a sort of frenetic energy at Da Nang Station, a rail hub about halfway down Vietnam’s east coast. People lugging suitcases and duct-taped polystyrene boxes were streaming in and out of its utilitarian entrance, but none looked like they were on holiday. And then I spotted Koah out front. Dapper in a beige linen suit, the young attendant was holding a wooden paddle with “The Vietage” embossed in gold and scanning the horizon for lost guests like me. “Ms Qin?” he asked as I approached. He already knew of course, because in a slick minute, I was inside with a cold drink in hand. Dreamt up by the Anantara hotel group, this is Vietnam’s first foray into luxury rail travel. It was designed to shuttle guests between its resorts in culture-packed Hoi An (30 kilometres south of Da Nang) and the coastal city of Quy Nhon in utter comfort. But it’s also a standalone experience, showcasing central Vietnam’s vivid landscapes alongside a three-course meal, complimentary massage and free-flowing drinks over six-and-a-half hours – all included in the price of a ticket, which starts from $486 each way: a fraction of what you might pay for a ride on the likes of the British Pullman or the Orient Express. The Vietage is unique in that it’s a single carriage attached to the Reunification Express, the government-run service connecting capital Hanoi and the country’s southern metropolis, Ho Chi Minh City. This little quirk means the timing is not what you might consider holidayfriendly hours – the departure south from Da Nang is an almost-blearyeyed 8:15am, while the service north from Quy Nhon gets in at 12:53am. But the experience more than makes up for it. A few minutes before departure, I was whisked to my seat. From the outside, the carriage looked just like the rest of the train: a pale, concrete grey streaked with blue, red and white. The interior, on the other hand, was a revelation – a modern take on Indochina aesthetics that sang with warm wood and rattan. The 12 plush seats were more like armchairs and the tail end of the carriage was taken up by a half-moon bar, where cocktails were shaken to order, as well as a treatment room for
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Slow and steady
The Vietage is a luxury train journey through Vietnam’s rice paddies with gourmet dining and free-flowing beverages.
complimentary massages, and a bathroom that wouldn’t have looked out of place in a five-star hotel. As the carriage pulled out of the station and began its rhythmic sway – winding through urban Da Nang past motorbikes and track-side homes – Koah was suddenly at my side with warm pastries and the drinks list, as another attendant appeared with a bottle of zippy sparkling Taltarni T Series Brut. As I sipped, the cityscape slowly melted away, replaced by fluttering banana palms, egrets wading in grassy rice paddies and toiling farmers in conical nón lá hats. Occasionally we would pass lotus ponds where the first buds had just emerged, usually accompanied by a lone grazing water buffalo. In the distance, there would always be some forested mountain, veiled by haze. After breakfast, Koah came to fetch me for my 15-minute massage, where soothing spa music drowned out the clatter of the tracks, then it was back to my window seat for a long, indulgent lunch. I had pre-ordered from a menu of Western and Vietnamese dishes (all of which are prepared at Anantara’s resorts, then finished on board), and my duck terrine and braised wagyu neck, accented with local ingredients such as Da Lat strawberries and green tea, could easily have been that of a Michelin-starred restaurant. As we drew close to Quy Nhon, I moved to the bar where cocktail shakers were rattling with urgency while guests – most of whom, I noted, were British – traded tips on where they’d been and where they planned to head next. Someone had ordered a bittersweet cocktail that perfumed the carriage with curling cinnamon smoke, so I quickly did the same, sipping it slowly, lulled into a contented daze by the whisky and the train’s gentle rocking. By the time the guestbook came around, my handwriting had turned into a languid scrawl. CT
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Book it
Magnificent Rail (magnificentrail.com.au; +61 482 095 648) offers tailor-made 15-day Vietnam trips for small groups of 12, from $9365 per person, twin share, including the Vietage train experience, plus four other train rides, boutique stays and an overnight cruise.
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Hotels
Walk like an EGYPTIAN
Teresa Ooi tastes life in the city of a thousand minarets.
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ocal Egyptians call it “Nasser’s Pineapple” because of its intricate latticed façade, soaring 187 metres tall by the River Nile in the heart of Cairo. Egyptian architect Naom Chebib designed the tower to look like a Pharaonic lotus plant, an ancient symbol for fertility. Since it was initially financed by the Americans, until former-president Gamal Abdel Nasser seized the funds to construct the tower for his own glory, the Americans often referred to it as “Nasser’s prick”. You can’t miss the tower from our 20th-floor balcony at the Four Seasons Nile Plaza Hotel. By day, the river is dotted with traditional Egyptian wooden sailing boats called felucca. By night the riverbanks twinkle with life, as hotels, mosques and citadels light up magically as the sun sets in the distance. The Four Seasons hotel occupies floors 6 to 30 of the Nile Plaza complex along the corniche. From the 265 guestrooms and 100 suites, there are incredible panoramic views across the city from the Nile to the island of Zamalek and beyond, including the historic 12th-century Saladin Citadel. Some of Cairo’s famous monuments, such as the Egyptian Museum and Cairo Opera House, are within walking distance. But if you are a first-timer in Cairo, don’t walk like an Egyptian. The streets seem to be devoid of zebra crossings. The complex also houses 75 residential units with a separate entry from the hotel. Security is tight. All guests must pass through a security gate and their bags are checked before they are allowed to enter the hotel foyer. On one side of the expansive, glistening marble lobby floor is a striking glass display of gorgeous roses in pink, salmon, white and yellow. Large Amsterdam chandeliers and floor lamps from My Marilyn and Twins, Habana and Pigalle collections create an evocative and theatrical atmosphere. The hotel’s nine restaurants and lounges offer something for everyone. On our first night, we decided to dine at Zitouni, which serves authentic Egyptian food. Since we were visiting at Ramadan, the restaurant was bursting with local diners waiting to break their 12-hour fast. The buffet spread was enormous and ranged from lamb kebabs, 98
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“There are incredible panoramic views across the city from the Nile to the island of Zamalek and beyond.”
Cairo’s call
XClockwise, from above: Nighttime illumination of the Sphinx; the Four Seasons Nile Plaza Hotel’s Corniche Suite, restaurant 8, adults-only indoor pool, and the spa sanctuary.
falafel, koftas, koshari, stuffed squab, shawarma with layers of grilled lamb, chicken and beef, pizzas, and lots of cold bean and lentil salads. It was, as the movie title says, gone in 60 seconds. Egyptians love their desserts to be exceptionally sweet. Baklavas are dripping in sugar syrup. Basbousa, or semolina cake, is similarly sticky and sweet. There is even an ice-cream bar serving sweet halva ice-cream (it’s delicious). If your palate prefers Italian, there’s the fine-dining Bullona. Restaurant 8 offers Cantonese cuisine, while Byblos offers Lebanese flavours. The Four Seasons has two swimming pools – an adults-only indoor pool with a glass roof and a ceiling painted with blue skies and wispy white clouds, and a rooftop pool with lounges surrounded by palm trees. Our 46-square-metre Nile view room with private terrace is elegantly comfortable, with a full marble bathroom, shower, bathtub and two wash basins. The décor is bright, with natural wood finishes, and the balcony has amazing views of the river and Zamalek. You must visit the ancient Khan el-Khalili market, built on the old burial site of the Fatimid Caliphs who founded Cairo in the 10th century. Located in the heart of Islamic Cairo, near the medieval walled Saladin Citadel, the grid-like alleyways of the market are full of colourful lanterns, jewellery, handicrafts, perfume and souvenirs. It is best to book a tour of the marketplace. Prices for a Nile view room with a balcony start from $1220 per night with breakfast for two, before a service charge of 12 per cent, plus taxes. CT For more information about the Four Seasons Nile Plaza Hotel, visit fourseasons.com/caironp/. Cruise &Travel
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Le Monde Beryl ballet flats, $791.
Loewe woolblend sweater, $2300.
The Row Sofia bag, $5170.
The Douro
Toteme linen-blend shirt, $1050. Loewe + Paula’s bucket hat, $733.
Trunk show Mr P. merino vest, $374.
Loewe bomber jacket, $3990. R.M. Williams Chelsea boots, $799.
Faithfull The Brand pants, $346.
Rains rain jacket, $160.
Agolde pants, $500.
Salone jumpsuit, $1548.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control watch, $15,400. RIVER CRUISE COLLECTIVE
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Valentino Garavani leather belt, $970.
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