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Hip Ahoy!
How cruising has become cutting edge 23/8/2022 3:22 pm
SEWARD
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HUBBARD GLACIER
ICY STRAIT POINT (HOONAH)
VENICE (TRIESTE)
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SKAGWAY
• JUNEAU • • ENDICOTT ARM FJORD • •WRANGELL SITKA •KETCHIKAN
SPLIT
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ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA)
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AMALFI/POSITANO
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DUBROVNIK
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CROTONE (CALABRIA)
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TAORMINA• (SICILY)
INSIDE PASSAGE
• KATAKOLON
ATHENS (PIRAEUS)
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(KUSADASI)
•SANTORINI
PRI ST
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VANCOUVER • • VICTORIA
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KOMODO
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THURSDAY ISLAND
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DARWIN
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BRISBANE• SYDNEY•
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•EPHESUS (KUSADASI) JERUSALEM (HAIFA)
• •AQABA KHASAB LUXOR (SAFAGA)• •• MUSCAT DUBAI • JEDDAH • • SUEZ CANAL
SALALAH
22/8/2022 12:10 pm
Contents
Cruise
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September 2022 Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au Editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Art director Catherine Martin Commercial director Phil Mahony phil@bigsplashmedia.com.au Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au
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Contributors and writers Jane Archer, Tallis Boerne Marcus, Adam Coulter, Louise Goldsbury, Rose Jacobs, Robin McKelvie, Teresa Ooi, Matthew Parris, Jocelyn Pride, Sheriden Rhodes, Gabrielle Sander, Michael Turtle, Sue Wallace Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 – Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 – International cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine Printed by IVE Cover: Glitz and glamour on board Virgin’s Valiant Lady.
Contents / Spring 2022
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Luxe for shore
MULTI MEDIA COMMUNICATIONS
Cruise&Travel magazine is published by Big Splash Media Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Copyright Big Splash Media Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided. Always consult your travel agent.
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Cruise lines have gone all out with luxury Australian shore excursions for their 2023 season voyages.
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Our news section, which includes the unstoppable march of luxury tourism as well as the latest hotel launches, resort offerings and cruise line innovations.
Cruise the Baltic Sea on Oceania’s Marina and you’ll have your choice of unusual shore excursions – a former Soviet missile base, anyone?
Upfront
Baltic odyssey
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Grandeur on the Great Lakes Viking’s new expedition ship Octantis plies the vast waterways of the Great Lakes between the United States and Canada.
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Hip ahoy! On a racy Virgin Voyages over-18s cruise aboard Valiant Lady, the non-stop party is only interrupted for the occasional drag show.
Cruise &Travel
23/8/2022 3:17 pm
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108 RIVERS
ESCAPES
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Luxury river cruise lines are increasingly offering itineraries stretching over more than a month.
Robbie Williams loves the glitz of Vegas and history of Austria. But nothing beats a British holiday.
The latest hotel openings – and what’s coming soon – in England’s capital.
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It’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas Experience the magic of Europe’s festive markets on a Yuletide river cruise.
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The canal less travelled Singing the praises of the lesser known Burgundy Canal through eastern France.
Cruise &Travel
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My life in travel
Sumptuous South Pacific Idyllic luxury beach resorts from Fiji to Vanuatu and Samoa to the Cook Islands.
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The African road trip Clamber aboard for an epic journey from South Africa to Namibia via Botswana by four-wheel-drive.
Checking in on London
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Bienvenue
Paris, and the rest of Europe are calling 31/5/2022 3:32 pm
Go to: cruisepassenger.com. au/magazine 5
23/8/2022 2:59 pm
Welcome
FROM THE PUBLISHER
A bright future Welcome to a new age of travel.
W
hen Richard Branson launched Virgin Atlantic almost 40 years ago, most of the established airlines laughed out loud. An airline that was fun? That didn’t treat its passengers as if they were lucky to get a seat? The incumbents muttered into their drinks that it was an experiment that was bound to fail. They were wrong. Today, as our review of Virgin Voyages in this edition of Cruise&Travel amply demonstrates, Branson is shaking up the cruise industry in the same way he changed the face of air travel. Travel is back, and we are celebrating a sector brought to a standstill by the pandemic but now innovating to survive and thrive. It’s not just that the two-year absence has made the heart grow fonder. It’s also that we have learned to treasure what we get from travel. As a result, fresh perspectives on how we can experience travel are now on offer. The number of luxury hotels in the world is expected to almost double by 2030. Many hotel brands are branching out, such as Four Seasons Resorts, and operating private jet tours for those who want the very best, at any price. Aman’s Jet Expeditions, for instance, are limited to eight or nine couples. Travellers fly aboard an Airbus ACJ 318 or 319, with private cars, drivers and guides in between. The upcoming Grandest Tour, is a 21-night experience of nine Aman properties in nine destinations – from Japan to Laos through to India and Greece, and finishing in Italy. But it comes at a price: $6,949 a day or $152,888 per person. The Ritz-Carlton is set to launch a yacht collection. And the InterContinental Shanghai Wonderland has been built in a former quarry, with 18 floors under water; you can kayak around the quarry, scale cliff faces or dine in an underwater restaurant. Destinations are also experiencing a roaring renaissance. Nile river ships operated by luxury brands such Abercrombie & Kent are selling out, as are African safaris and journeys to the polar regions. The new travel maxim is: “If not now, when?” Cruising is also experiencing a resurgence. A flotilla of vessels with fresh designs are sliding down the slipways. The Norwegian Prima, which has just started sailing, and Celebrity’s Edge Class take big ship cruising to a higher level. In the luxury and ultra-luxury areas, we can’t wait to see Seven Seas Grandeur. We carry some of its architectural designs in this edition, and the craft that has gone into planning the ship’s public spaces would easily win architectural awards. Finally, with this edition of Cruise&Travel – and available online at Issuu.com – is our special magazine on how cruise lines are embracing sustainability with design features that allow them to sail lightly. It’s time to dust off the bucket list! Peter Lynch, Publisher 6
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Come fly with me
Hotel and resort companies now offer bespoke journeys aboard private jets.
Five ideas we’re excited about
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Private plane travel
The idea is straightforward: booking empty seats on small jets carrying up to 16 people with the quality of service and space you’d find flying private. It’s a bit like UberPool, the service that lets passengers share the cost of their journey. Of course, it’s not cheap. But it is more affordable. Like Brisbane to Sydney on a Cessna Mustang jet for $2,000. You join for $12.95 per month and get alerts on available empty legs. emptyjets.com.au
Cruise &Travel
23/8/2022 12:51 pm
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A revolution in yacht design
Scenic’s Glen Moroney has long been an innovator, recreating the design of European river vessels with his Space-Ships and inventing the discovery yacht class with Eclipse. This revolutionary vessel, with helicopter and submarine on board, has now been copied by a number of luxury lines. But the original is to get a sister, Eclipse II, next year. And the good news is that it will sail in Australia in 2024. scenic.com.au/partnerships/ chairmans-voyage
Cruise &Travel
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A new safari hotel
DumaTau by Wilderness Safaris, is a collection of eight oversized tented suites looking over Osprey Lagoon in Botswana. Its 45 km of river frontage offers an unparalleled safari experience, while interiors of hand-crafted tiles and local textiles reflect the heart of Linyanti Wildlife Reserve. The camp’s spa, Osprey Retreat, soothes the soul – as do all the elephants. Rates from $1,373 per couple, per night. wilderness-safaris.com
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Thrills and luxury combined
It’s not often we get to see the birth of a new class of ship. Norwegian Prima and Norwegian Nova are the future of big ship sailings, with thrills galore – try go-kart racing around the funnel or dry slides that will make you scream. There is luxury, too, with The Haven expanding at the back of the ship to offer more suites and privileges. ncl.com/au/en/
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A welcome to solo travellers
Solo travellers are often made to feel like also-rans, and hit with surcharges and offered inferior rooms. Now Oceania’s first new ship in 10 years, Vista, will have a cabin category just for single travellers. The Concierge Level Solo Veranda Staterooms feature a lounge and private veranda, and a separate sleeping area. Solo guests receive free laundry service and access to the Concierge Lounge. oceaniacruises.com CT
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23/8/2022 9:55 am
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World Leader of Luxury Expeditions *Ponant Bonus is yield managed and may change at any time without notice; Welcome Offer: AUD$800 discount is per stateroom based on double occupancy in Australian Dollars (AUD). Offer valid for guests travelling with PONANT for the first time. More terms and conditions apply; All Zodiac and shore excursions are included on luxury expedition itineraries unless specified; Open Bar includes wine, beer, French Champagne, spirits, and non-alcoholic beverages. Premium beverages and brands available at an additional cost; spa services on board are available at extra cost; Included transfers, flights and accommodation are subject to terms and conditions. More conditions apply, refer to au.ponant.com. ABN: 35 166 676 517. Photographs: © Studio PONANT - Daniel Ernst, Morgane Monneret, Olivier Blaud, Michael Nolan/Robert Harding - Corbis.
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Upfront | Inspiration for today’s sophisticated traveller |
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Luxury travel booms
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Upfront
Words | BERNADETTE CHUA
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number of reports have forecast a strong recovery for the high-end luxury market, with wellheeled travellers spending big post lockdowns. According to experts at Virtuoso’s 34th annual Travel Week, which was held in Las Vegas, outbound leisure travel sales have shown a strong rebound even in markets that had experienced hard border closures. The American market has outperformed its 2019 numbers by 122 per cent in 2022, while Australians were not far behind on 113 per cent. People travelling with spouses or significant others represented the largest segment of holidaymakers, followed by those travelling with friends and, lastly, those holidaying with children. Interestingly, solo travel is on the rise, particularly from the 65-plus age group: there has been an increase from four per cent to a staggering 18 per cent in 2022. The study also found younger, richer travellers are getting out there, with the 18–34 age group averaging 2.2 more international trips in the past year than the 65-plus age group, as well as 1.3 more domestic trips. Around 74 per cent of Virtuoso’s luxury travellers say “creating a travel experience that best fits my expectations is more important than price”, with plans to increase their previous year’s spend of USD$20,700 per person by 34 per cent to USD$27,800 in the next year. In terms of destinations, market research firm Global Market Insights found tourists are looking for safari experiences, particularly in the Middle East and Africa. The Middle East and Africa region is increasingly becoming more popular for animal watching, due to its sheer biodiversity. The report also found luxury travellers are planning their holidays around adventure and sporting events. For the American market, agents are creating bespoke packages that allow travellers to attend events like the Super Bowl. Due to the surge in disposable income, the Asia-Pacific luxury tourism market is booming, accounting for more than 28 per cent of travel in 2021. Australians are demanding more upscale and unique experiences. Islands and beaches are topping travellers’ lists for holidays, followed by trips with a wellness component or an ocean cruise. Wellness-focused trips were the only category to see a year-over-year increase compared to other categories: 2021 (13 per cent) versus 2022 (24 per cent). And now more than ever, people are looking to disconnect from their routines and two years of lockdown. More than ever, these travellers say looking to connect with new people, cultures and ideas is their primary reason for travel in 2022, with purpose-driven travel still paramount. Environmentally friendly practices and the preservation of natural and cultural heritage are top-of-mind concerns, especially among generation Z and Millennials. Fifty-six per cent of generation Z travellers and 46 per cent of Millennials are willing to pay more for eco-friendly tourism practices and travel that preserves natural and cultural heritage. CT 10
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HEY, big spender Luxury travellers are leading the way as tourism booms after the tumultuous past couple of years.
Cruise &Travel
22/8/2022 5:19 pm
“Islands and beaches are topping travellers’ lists for holidays, followed by trips with a wellness component.”
Cruise &Travel
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22/8/2022 12:01 pm
Upfront
FOUR SEASONS ISTANBUL’S NEW LOOK
Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul at Sultanahmet has reopened following a property-wide transformation. All 65 guestrooms of the hotel have been given a makeover. The lobby pays homage to the city’s culture and heritage, while seating areas spill out onto the newly landscaped terrace, which has been designed to create zones for dining and lounging. The culinary team, led by Turkish executive chef Özgür Üstün, will offer Anatolian cuisine at the new Avlu restaurant. The property’s rooftop bar, Süreyya, offers views of the surrounding landmarks, as well as the silhouette of the Old City. Lingo Lingo, the hotel’s new bar, is adjacent to a private dining space that serves seafood mezze (it is also suitable for private functions).
Heavenly holiday style Zimmermann Celestial Day midi-dress, $595.
Explora’s dining options
Explora Journeys, the newest luxury cruise line and a sister brand to MSC Cruises, has unveiled snippets of what’s to come on its vessel Explora I. The ship will have 11 food experiences across six restaurants, as well as 12 bars and lounges. Wine 14
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selections will reflect the regions it visits, with sommeliers selecting boutique wines. There will be cocktail-making masterclasses and Meet the Winemaker events, in addition to wine-themed shore excursions. Restaurants will include Anthology, featuring art and music reflecting cuisine that spans the globe; Sakura, for pan-Asian selections; Marble & Co. Grill, a redefined European steakhouse experience; Med Yacht Club, with cuisine inspired from Italy, Spain, Greece and France; and Emporium Marketplace, featuring all-day dining, 18 different cooking stations, made-to-order pasta and seafood. Cruise &Travel
23/8/2022 10:27 am
Hellenic heels Christian Louboutin Movida Athina platform sandals, $1,995.
MIGHTY MEKONG
Cruise &Travel
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Grand plans Regent Seven Seas has unveiled the
interiors of its newest ship, Seven Seas Grandeur, which is poised to take to the seas next year. The ship will be an architectural marvel, with the luxury line collaborating with award-winning design firm Studio Dado. The curated spaces onboard Seven Seas Grandeur include the Prime 7 Steakhouse & Bar, the Observation Lounge and the opulent Regent Suite. Compass Rose, the ship’s main dining room, will evoke imaginations of a magical forest, with the space adorned with palms. As guests enter, they will be greeted by the maitre d’, who will be stationed under a sculptural waterfall and open skylight. And the Regent Suite will be adorned with expansive art pieces, marbled floors and carved stone fireplaces. The suite has its own living room, dining area and sumptuous master bedroom.
Viking has launched its newest river ship, Viking Saigon, in south-east Asia. Purpose-built for the Mekong River, the 80-guest ship sails between Kampong Cham, Cambodia and Mỹ Tho, Vietnam as part of Viking’s popular 15-day Magnificent Mekong itinerary. Along the journey, guests explore the cultural treasures of Vietnam and Cambodia with 16 guided tours. Hotel stays in Hanoi, Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) bracket an eight-day Mekong River voyage on this unique itinerary, during which guests can enjoy exploring the Old Quarter of Hanoi and attending a performance by Apsara dancers; wandering the Khmer temple complex of Angkor Wat, a UNESCO World Heritage site; visiting Ta Prohm, where jungle vines embrace ancient ruins; and seeing the sights of Phnom Penh by cyclo rickshaw.
Shore excursion staple Valentino Garavani shoulder bag, $3,762.
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Collaboration
ABERCROMBIE & KENT
EXPERIENCE YOUR EUROPEAN DREAM
A&K’S TAILOR-MADE TRIPS TO ITALY AND BEYOND
E
urope is one of the most beloved travel destinations on Earth. It has been enticing guests for centuries with its charming coastal towns, diverse and rustic landscapes, and rich tapestry of historic and cultural wonders. Abercrombie & Kent has been taking its luxury guests on tailor-made journeys to Europe for more than 30 years. Its authentic local expertise and offices all over the region keep the company forever on the pulse of the extraordinary ways to experience the continent’s most iconic destinations. + A&K’s tailor-made journeys Seeing Europe with A&K means seeing it exactly as you want to, on an itinerary fashioned by the experts for you and your travel companions. Whether you’re looking to create a Greek island land extension to your Mediterranean cruise or want to explore rustic southern Italy on a standalone trip, planning your ideal journey with A&K will ensure your itinerary is perfectly curated to you, so you can have a once-in-alifetime experience with the people who matter most to you. A&K’s tailor-made journeys allow you to travel privately while still enjoying extraordinary insider access privileges, vehicles, guides and transport along the way. A&K take
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Italian odyssey
Clockwise from top: Abercrombie & Kent can arrange sunsplashed intimate lunches in Florence; exclusive cooking classes in Palermo, Sicily; and rowing experiences in Venice.
care of every single detail, from the beginning of the planning process until you return home, to ensure a seamless journey unlike any other. While it’s clear that tourism is booming once again all over the continent, A&K has uncovered the most popular European destinations on trend this year and next, with unique and immersive itineraries to get you exploring. While topping the list were Greece, Spain, Iceland, Sardinia and Corsica, none came in bigger than Italy. + An Italian masterpiece Italy’s landscapes are incredibly diverse. From the north’s icy Alps and glacial lakes to the south’s fiery craters and turquoise grottoes, this is a country that will take your breath away. Add to this some of the world’s most sought-after artistic, cultural and historical treasures, and you have a destination beguiling as ever. Read on to discover just some of A&K’s inspiring travel ideas to this masterful country. Explore Saint Mark’s Basilica blissfully free of the typical crowds on an after-hours tour. Taste your way through Venice with A&K’s food and wine connoisseur. Indulge in the wines of Tuscany overlooking the beautiful Bargino countryside. Cruise the caerulean waters along the Amalfi coast on your own private motoryacht. Delight in Sicily’s musical heritage with an opera at the famous Teatro Massimo. Meet
local chefs during exclusive cooking classes. And put your feet up in hotel suites that evoke the elegance of days gone by. Whether you’re discovering Italy for the first time or returning to this iconic destination with loved ones, A&K can ensure your journey is unforgettable. With A&K’s new Europe 2022–2023 brochure out now, it’s not too late to book for 2022, and with bookings going fast, its essential to start planning for 2023. Experience your European dream today. CT
abercrombiekent.com.au
Cruise &Travel
22/8/2022 5:14 pm
LUXURY SMALL GROUP JOURNEYS From the rare wildlife experiences of Botswana, to the ancient wonders of Egypt and the spellbinding sights of India, discover unique and lesser-known locations while still exploring the eternal favourites on our Luxury Small Group Journeys in 2023. Travelling with intimate group sizes averaging 14 guests on expertly designed itineraries, you’ll stay in the finest hotels and enjoy unrivalled insider access to the most iconic sites, often before the crowds arrive. Resident Tour Directors and expert guides offer an enriching experience through their own intimate understanding of the destination and its culture, ensuring your trip is one you’ll never forget. With over 30 itineraries across six continents, our Luxury Small Group Journeys are waiting for you to discover the world’s most exquisite destinations.
Botswana Safari in Style
Egypt & the Nile
Taj Mahal & the Treasures of India
On this iconic Southern African adventure, explore extraordinary game regions, view stunning Victoria Falls and stay in accommodations ranging from classic luxury tents to lavish tree houses. 10 days from $15,130 pp Departs Jan–Dec 2023
Journey to the heart of an ancient land that has captured the imagination of travellers for millennia. Follow in the footsteps of Pharaohs, emperors and conquerors from Cairo to Luxor and along the Nile to Aswan. 10 days from $12,880 pp Departs Jan–May & Aug–Dec 2023
Explore India’s greatest treasures as you visit the Taj Mahal, seek out the graceful Bengal tiger, witness a holy rite beside the sacred Ganges, and gain a fascinating glimpse into rural life — all while staying in royal palaces-turned-luxury hotels. 14 days from $15,320 pp Departs Oct–Dec 2022
Call 1300 589 717, visit www.abercrombiekent.com.au or contact your travel agent to learn more.
*Terms & Conditions apply. Prices shown are per person based on twin share and are subject to availability.
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22/8/2022 12:02 pm
Upfront
Adults-only retreat in Bali
T
he Banyan Tree group has opened an off-the-beaten track resort in an untouched part of northern Ubud in Indonesia. Buahan, a Banyan Tree Escape is an adults-only property combining natural surrounds with a sustainable design employing a no-doors and no-walls concept. The resort’s 16 villas are surrounded by rice paddies and jungles. Guests will have a 180-degree panoramic view of Ayung River and waterfall, and the mountain peaks beyond. Scattered on and off the property are secret Hideaway Spots, providing guests with a garden sanctuary for meditation, reading, or simply taking a moment to pause and unwind.
Louise, please
Mex out the flavours Have a planet-friendly fiesta with The Mexican Vegetarian Cookbook (Phaidon, $74.95).
VIENNA’S LOOKING ROSEY
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South Australia’s premier lodge, Barossa Valley’s The Louise, has undergone a $3 million ‘glamover’. Starting with generous villa-style suites opening to the valley’s picturesque rolling vineyards, and extending to a revitalised dining and drinks offering, it’s all in keeping with the Baillie style of luxury lodging. Fifteen refurbished suites offer contemporary furnishings, king beds, luxury ensuite bathroom and plenty of space to feel at home. Drinks and dining take centre stage in the main lodge. The award-winning Appellation restaurant’s interiors are now more opulent – fitting for the luxurious degustation menus and premium local produce – with local artworks and stylish new private dining nooks ensuring every meal is a celebration. Guests can also enjoy the walk-in wine cellar, while private dining rooms are perfect for a special occasion with loved ones.
Rosewood Hotels & Resorts has revealed its newest hotel, the sumptuous Rosewood Vienna. Located in the upscale Petersplatz, perhaps the most famous of squares in the Old Town quarter of the city, the hotel offers easy access to nearby luxury shopping streets, restaurants and Vienna’s cultural and historical sites. The hotel is housed in the former headquarters of a bank, which has been transformed into an oasis of singular luxury with 71 guestrooms and 28 suites. A brasserie on the sixth floor and rooftop bar offer sweeping views of the Old Town quarter. The property, Rosewood’s fifth in Europe, is also home to Asaya Spa, which focuses on integrated wellbeing, incorporating therapies and spa treatments inspired by Austria’s wellness traditions. Cruise &Travel
22/8/2022 5:12 pm
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ENJOY, IT’S ALL INCLUDED NORDIC BALCONY STATEROOM | SHORE EXCURSIONS & OUTDOOR EXPERIENCES | ACCESS TO TWO SUBMARINES & RIBS ENRICHING LECTURES | CHOICE OF 6 DINING OPTIONS | 24 -HOUR ROOM SERVICE | NORDIC SPA FACILITIES | WI-FI & GRATUITIES WINE & BEER SERVED WITH LUNCH & DINNER | ALL INTERNAL FLIGHTS | INDUSTRY-LEADING HEALTH & SAFETY PROGRAM
NO KIDS | NO CASINOS | NEWEST SHIP FLEET 138 747 VIKING.COM OR SEE YOUR LOCAL VIKING AGENT
*Conditions apply. Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability, includes all advertised discounts and correct at time of printing. Guests are required to be fully vaccinated against COVID-19 at time of travel. Antarctic Explorer on 09 November 2023 departure in a Nordic Balcony and is cruise only. Antarctica & South Georgia Island on 29 October 2023 departure in a Nordic Balcony and is cruise only. These offers are valid on new bookings between 5 August – 31 October 2022 unless sold out prior. For full terms and conditions visit viking.com
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Upfront Upfront Hello, hibiscus Christopher Esber silk-twill shirt-dress, $890, from Harrolds.
Pretty cool wedding
TWICE AS NICE
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or couples looking for a different way to tie the knot, you can get married in Antarctica for a cool USD$250,000. Red Savannah, a British-based company, is offering a package called Celebrating a White Wedding in a White Desert. Wedding parties of up to 12 people can fly out of Cape Town and travel over the Southern Ocean to Antarctica. The celebrations start with a wedding breakfast on ice, cake-cutting ceremony and champagne upon arrival. Some of the activities for the bridal party include zip-lining, exploring the ice tunnels and fat-biking underneath the continent’s 24-hour summer sun. For guests who want to stay for more than just a day, they can indulge at Echo, a brand-new polar camp of six private pods.
Handle with flair Rimowa Essential Trunk Plus, $1,870.
Two new ships are on the horizon for Norwegian Cruise Line. The premium cruise line has just launched its latest ship, the Norwegian Prima, in a celebratory ceremony in Reykjavik, Iceland. With its sophisticated design and amazing new attractions, she is the first of six brand-new Primaclass ships to be delivered over six years. Prima will be the most spacious ship yet from NCL and will offer spell-binding entertainment as well as incredible culinary experiences. During her debut season, she will sail from Iceland and visit stunning European destinations like the Norwegian fjords and the far-flung Orkney Islands. Meanwhile, the Prima’s sister ship, Norwegian Viva floated out in August with her exterior completed, including the hull artwork designed by Italy graffiti artist Manuel Di Rita. The ship will debut in 2023.
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Tuscan Women YES, Cook, a speciality holiday NONNA culinary operator, is back to its pre-pandemic
full schedule. The tours celebrate the food and culture of the Italian region and includes classes and excursions in the charming village of Montefollonico. The group is taking reservations for 2023 and 2024. During each day of the week-long program, 16 guests learn to cook authentic local recipes from some of the best cooks in all of Italy, the grandmothers, or nonnas, of Montefollonico. These women share family recipes that have been handed down from generation to generation. And after a day of cooking, eating and wine tasting, participants are taken on shopping and sightseeing trips in the many beautiful villages and towns of Tuscany. Tuscan Women Cook’s week-long program runs during the months of May, June, September and October.
Chairman of the boardshorts Bottega Veneta swim shorts, $777, from MrPorter.com.
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Calling all astronauts
Softly does it Christian Dior DiorAct lambskin sandals, $1,750.
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ir Richard Branson’s Virgin Galactic Holdings has secured land in New Mexico to build a state-of-the-art astronaut camp, for Virgin Galactic Future Astronauts (and up to three of their guests) to prepare them for spaceflight from Spaceport America. The master plan for the campus will include training facilities, purposeful accommodations and tailored experiences as well as an observatory, wellness centre, recreation activities and unique dining options, all underpinned by Virgin’s signature hospitality. Situated near Spaceport America, the campus will sit atop a mesa overlooking the stunning New Mexico landscape. The campus is being designed with bold simplicity, function, innovation and emotional connectivity at the core, paying homage to the region’s spectacular natural vistas. The first commercial flight is expected to take off in 2023.
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ometimes, you want a little bit extra. Highend hotels around the world offer concierge services in addition to opulent suites and, best of all, their attentions are tailored to individual guests. We’ve searched the world for properties that go above and beyond the call button.
/ WestHouse Hotel New York
At YOUR SERVICE
WestHouse Hotel in New York has a personal shopping service that’s available from 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday. Guests can purchase items from Net-A-Porter and will enjoy a sameday delivery service. The personal shoppers can also help you pick out an outfit for a special occasion, or recommend clothes that fit your style and look. Even better is that when you purchase the Suite Shopping Package for more than three nights, you will receive a US$500 NetA-Porter gift card.
Planning the perfect proposal can take a lot of time, but the team at Hilton Aruba can remove some of the stress. Drawing on their impressive network of contacts, they can help you with a proposal absolutely free of charge. They’ll source everything from the best cake-makers, florists and photographers. The hotel’s concierges can also recommend the best time of day and perfect location to propose.
/ London Marriott Hotel Park Lane
London Marriott Hotel Park Lane offers its young guests a teddy bear concierge. For a fee, butler Pantelis Evangelou will arrive at your door with a teddy bear ready for adoption. Among the themed bears are airline pilots and London Beefeaters.
/ Stanley Hotel, near Denver Colorado
If you’ve ever been fascinated with the paranormal, then the Stanley Hotel is perfect for you. It offers a paranormal concierge who will take you on a tour of haunted properties, and plan ghost tours. They can even organise sessions where guests can “commune” with the dead. Previous guests have spoken very highly of the ghost tour, and some have claimed that the hotel is haunted, reporting strange things such as water running from a shower in an empty room.
/ Hilton Aruba Caribbean Resort and Casino Beach Hotel
/ The Mark Hotel, New York / Hotel De L’Europe Amsterdam
The concierge team at De L’Europe Amsterdam can arrange everything from a horse carriage tour of the city to celebrations for special occasions. The hotel has a wine cellar equipped with 900 labels: a sommelier can assist you with choosing the best wines for your needs. They can also organise a cognac and a cigar.
This stunning establishment located on Manhattan’s Upper East Side has a specialised concierge service. Guests are ferried to and from upscale luxury department store Bergdorf Goodman in bespoke pedicabs. But that’s not all – well-heeled guests and fashionistas staying at The Mark can shop before and after hours with Bergdorf’s director of shopping. Those staying in a suite receive a US$500 gift card and a facial in the store’s beauty department. CT
Photograph: Tourism Western Australia
Upfront
Personal attention
From top: An Aruba wedding; New York’s The Mark Hotel partners with Bergdorf Goodman.
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HOLIDAYS OF AUSTRALIA & THE WORLD
Cruise and rail holidays are back
Photograph: Tourism Western Australia
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here is so much to love about Australia, but some of our natural wonders, must-see icons and most picturesque landscapes can be both challenging and time-consuming to reach. This is when cruise and rail holidays make for an incredibly efficient way to experience many of our country’s bucket-list destinations in the one relaxing holiday. The refurbished Coral Princess returns in 2023 with luxurious accommodation, wonderful included dining and dazzling entertainment as it carries you along our spectacular rugged coastlines. A 14-night East Coast & Top End Explorer with the Ghan and Coral Princess, departing April 16, 2023, journeys through central Australia via rail, with all-inclusive hospitality and immersive off-train experiences up to tropical Darwin. Cruise the top of Australia’s coast to Sydney through picture-perfect far north Queensland and Brisbane. Experience Cairns, the gateway to two of Australia’s great natural wonders, the Great Barrier Reef and
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the World Heritage-listed Daintree National Park. Here the ocean and rainforest meet unlike anywhere else on the planet. The stunning Kimberley coast, undoubtedly one of the country’s best hidden treasures, takes pride of place in the northern part of Western Australia. The Kimberley coast remains so unspoiled that it has been identified as one of the least impacted marine environments in the world. A 16-night West Coast and Top End Explorer with Coral Princess and the Ghan Expedition, departing April 13, 2023, is a wonderful way to see this region, cruising from Perth up to Darwin with port calls in Geraldton, Kuri Bay and must-see Broome. Then there’s a rail trip like nothing else aboard the Ghan,
taking in Katherine, Alice Springs and fascinating Coober Pedy. Australia’s stunning southern coastline is not to be missed on a 17-night Southern Explorer Coast to Coast with Coral Princess and Indian Pacific, departing April 2, 2023. Sail this scenic region from Sydney to Perth, stopping in Hobart, Burnie, Kangaroo Island, Albany and the famed Margaret River, renowned for superb produce and world-class wines. Taste your way through each port call as you explore its history, art and local communities. Cross the vast Nullarbor and traverse the picturesque Blue Mountains onboard the Indian Pacific, as you view the ever-changing landscapes of our diverse country. With availability on otherwise sold-out Coral Princess cruises, these packages offer a fantastic opportunity to sail aboard this magnificent ship. Call Holidays of Australia & the World on 1300 854 897 or visit www.holidaysofaustralia.com.au. CT
Best of both worlds From top: Holidays of Australia’s journeys combine sailing on the Coral Princess with riding the Ghan. Right: Cape Leveque near Broome on the Western Australian Kimberley coast.
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Celebrity treatment
Celebrity Cruises has dialled up the drama to create something exclusive for its passengers. The line is bringing Celebrity Eclipse to Australian waters for the first time in October, and with it comes an exciting brand of shore excursions the cruise line calls Private Journeys. These top-of-the-range ultra-exclusive shore excursions can be tailored to the needs of Celebrity guests. If you want something included in your tour, just ask one of the Celebrity Cruises Destination Insiders and if it can be done, they will make it happen. For example, an eco-certified Mossman Gorge tour takes guests on an Indigenousguided walk along private tracks, visiting special places and culturally significant sites, past traditional bark shelters and over meandering rainforest streams.
Summer somewhere
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elving deep into rich Māori traditions, the well preserved natural environment of the Chatham Islands and the magical lands of Norway, Ponant has unveiled 12 new voyages for its 2023/24 southern hemisphere summer season. The new itineraries have been crafted to explore the heart of remote islands, sandy beaches and captivating landscapes of the South Pacific. And for the first time in a southern hemisphere summer season, there are sailings to the northern hemisphere to experience the enchanting Northern Lights in Norway. Ponant is deploying all its expertise for these 69 new sailings, to discover or rediscover these destinations. Depending on the destination, guests will enjoy a wide range of activities: meetings local communities, visiting UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites, diving, snorkelling, swimming, hiking, snowshoeing, biking, sleigh rides and more.
Transport yourself to Istanbul Turkish rose jostles with amber and floral notes in BDK’s Tabac Rose, 100ml for $385.
Pack a punch
Luxury boutique hotel brand Como Hotels and Resorts has added new immersive retreats to its 2022 and 2023 calendar across Asia. From a film photography retreat in Bhutan to boxing in Bali, the journeys are designed to inspire guests to live life to the fullest. Bali Boxing, which runs in 2023, is a six-day fitness camp hosted by former world middleweight champion Darren Barker and British boxer Ryan Pickard at Como Uma Canggu. There’ll be Rocky-style circuits, mindset morning meditations, and classes to improve balance and timing. But there is rest and relaxation involved – after each session, recover at the serene volcanic beach or enjoy one of the signature Como Shambhala treatments. 24
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Cruise 5 nights to South Australia from $899pp twin share*
Effortless, personalised holidays with MedallionClassTM
Enjoy everything from TrulyTouchlessTM experiences, to locating your loved ones anywhere on the ship, as well TM Enjoy everything fromlike TrulyTouchless experiences, as enhanced service having whatever you need, to locatingYou yourcan loved ones on the ship, as delivered. enjoy theanywhere convenience and well as enhancedofservice like having you you connectedness MedallionClass nowhatever matter where need, delivered. You can enjoy the convenience and sail. Stay connected and spend more time doing what connectedness of MedallionClass no matter where you you love on a Princess MedallionClass holiday. sail. Stay connected and spend more time doing what you love on a Princess MedallionClass holiday.
BOOK NOW | Visit your travel agent | 1300 159 654 | princess.com *Fares are per person, in AUD, inFor complete twin accommodation based on the lead interior stateroom categoryprincess.com/ocean at time of publication, inclusive of all discounts, taxes, fees and port expenses (which are more information visit subject to change). Supplements apply for other stateroom categories. Fare based on 5-night Southern Australia Explorer cruise roundtrip Melbourne 22/1/23. Higher fares may apply to other departure
dates. Princess Cruises has set aside a reasonable number of staterooms which are available at these fares. Once these staterooms are sold, fares may vary. Valid for new bookings and not combinable with any other offer. All offers are subject to availability. Princess Standard fare is the cruise fare only without any inclusions. To be read in conjunction with the Passage Contract available at princess.com/ legal/passage_contract which passengers will be bound by. A credit card surcharge of 1.1% for Visa and Mastercard and 2.75% for AMEX, and a 1.0% surcharge for PayPal will apply to direct bookings made through our website or call centre. No surcharges apply to debit cards. Travel agents may charge additional fees - check with your travel agent. Carnival plc trading as Princess Cruises ABN 23 107 998 443. 117_PC - Cruising News.indd 1
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22/8/2022 12:07 pm
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Seabourn’s first expedition ship
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TASTE of TASSIE
A new luxury yacht will soon start sailing around the Apple Isle. Tasmanian Expedition Cruises is set to launch a custom-designed vessel called Odalisque III in early 2023. The ship will take up to 12 guests in six stylish cabins along the coastline of Tasmania, stopping in destinations such as Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour and exploring the Tasmanian wilderness between January and May each year. Specialised chefs from some of Hobart’s top restaurants will serve cuisine designed to showcase local Tasmania produce, complemented by Tasmanian wines, craft beers and spirits. Local experts, including skippers and guides, will lead guests on journeys of discovery via guided tender and shore excursions.
uxury line Seabourn has launched its first expedition ship, Seabourn Venture. The ship begins its inaugural season with a series of 12- to 15-day voyages exploring the Arctic, Greenland, Iceland and the Canadian Arctic Archipelago. The ship has been specially crafted for adventure expedition and has two custom-built submarines capable of exploring shipwrecks and natural wonders under the sea in luxurious comfort, as well as kayaks and Zodiacs. There’s also an Expedition Lounge, the central gathering space for guests to relax with complimentary cocktails; a Discovery Centre; and more. The ship is staffed with a 26-person Expedition Team to help guests get the most from expeditions on land and at sea.
Star-studded
Hurtigruten has joined forces with a leading astronomer on its Northern Lights sailings. Tom Kerss will join selected Hurtigruten Expeditions and Coastal Express sailings from October. A veteran of the Royal Observatory, a speaker and a writer, Kerss set up Stargazing London to deliver training and spark interest in astronomy. He will embark on his first voyage to Norway on board MS Maud from Dover on October 20, 2022 and will share his knowledge of the Northern Lights, the Arctic sky and the solar system.
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Captain Cook Cruises
n e Op iness p p Ha for
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SCENIC
GO ABOVE & BEYOND WITH SCENIC ECLIPSE
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hese days when we travel, we want an experience that goes above and beyond. Scenic has truly set the benchmark and has expanded its range of expedition voyages for 2023 and 2024 with Scenic Eclipse, The World’s First Discovery Yacht™, and the launch of Scenic Eclipse II in early 2023. Scenic is also introducing new itineraries that literally take you to the skies and below the ice-capped surface in and around Antarctica, exploring deeper into the Weddell Sea and beyond the Antarctic Circle. Now this is what we call an immersive adventure. From October 2023, you’ll be given wings in more ways than one when you book one of the new Scenic Antarctica voyages, including venturing beyond the Antarctic Circle to join an elite group of people who not only have been to Antarctica but have ventured into a region seldom visited. You can also make the most of the guest experience by getting airborne. One of Scenic’s exclusive offerings that takes it above and beyond is providing helicopters^ for guests wishing to take to the skies to get a bird’s eyes perspective of the awe-inspiring frozen landscape below. Perched on Scenic Eclipse, the two Airbus H130-T2 helicopters are designed to take you closer than ever before to the incredible features of this ice-capped wonderland, making your memories more personal and intimate than just about any other trip available on Earth. Seeing the wonders of the world up above without breaking a sweat? Now that’s ultra-luxury. Cruise&Travel
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Frozen wonderland
From top: Scenic’s six-guest Scenic Neptune submarine explores the depths of the Antarctic; soar above the ice in one of two helicopters; in Antarctica’s Paradise Harbour.
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“IF YOU’RE KEEN TO EXPLORE THIS FROZEN CONTINENT CLOSE-UP, MAKE USE OF THE KAYAKS AND ZODIACS ON OFFER.”
Antarctica’s wonders can also be found below as well as above the surface. The discovery yacht’s Scenic Neptune submarine^ holds up to six guests at a time and dives up to 200 metres below the sea. This is a dream come true for anyone who has ever wondered what it felt like to be Jacques Cousteau, or perhaps experience life from the perspective of the majestic marine creatures of the ice. Back to the ultra-luxury yacht again and we haven’t even scratched the surface of what Scenic Eclipse has to offer. On board (and guiding you every step of the way when you’re out and about) is the specialist Discovery Team, each of them recognised as experts in their fields. You’ll hear their passion when they give their commentary on the ship, leaving no iceberg unturned and no question unanswered. If you’re keen to explore this frozen continent at a slower, more intimate pace, you can make use of the kayaks, the stand-up paddleboards and Zodiacs on offer. And when you’re ready to thaw out again, your ultra-luxurious ship has much to offer – with a maximum of 200 guests in spacious suites, there are up to 10 dining experiences, nine bars and lounges and an expansive 500m2 Senses Spa waiting to pamper and warm your soul from head to toes. CT 30
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SCENIC
Pampering and perspiration
Above: Kayaking amid the icebergs. Right: Stretching out in Scenic Eclipse’s PURE: Yoga & Pilates studio. Opposite, from top: Whale-spotting in Fournier Bay; enjoying the Senses Spa; taking a thrilling Zodiac ride; enjoying a predinner drink.
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Top picks for 2023
Here’s a sneak peek at three Scenic Antarctica itineraries showcasing how this fascinating region can be explored according to your interests.
ANTARCTICA IN DEPTH (13 DAYS)
This is the ultimate trip for first-time travellers to Antarctica, encompassing all the top highlights of this magical destination. You’ll see diverse marine wildlife, breathtaking scenery and untouched icescapes, and witness penguins and seals in their natural habitat. Board in Ushuaia (Argentina) and enjoy two days at sea before reaching the pristine white continent. Depart: November 21, 2023; December 2 and 27, 2023; January 7, 18 and 29, 2024 Prices: From $20,397 pp*, including economy flights. Save up to: $7,672
ANTARCTICA AND THE WEDDELL SEA (16 DAYS)
This is the voyage of a lifetime through some of the most untouched places on Earth. The Weddell Sea, is also said to have the clearest waters on Earth, with whales often seen breaching in season. You can even take the optional helicopter excursion to Snow Hill Island, where elusive emperor penguins breed. At landfall, take in the rare sight of Adélie penguins, and happy, fat, lazing seals in colonies surrounded by ice. Depart Buenos Aires and take in highlights of Ushuaia, Port Lockroy, Lemaire Channel, Weddell Sea, South Shetland Islands and more. Depart: December 20, 2022, December 13, 2023 Prices: From $26,015 pp*, including economy flights Save up to: $11,324 pp
BEYOND THE ANTARCTIC CIRCLE (16 DAYS)
When the edge of the Earth just isn’t far enough, this is the trip for you. Wake up to the sight of the land of the midnight sun and embrace your snowy moonscape. This is where you will witness landscapes few can claim to ever have seen. Highlights include close encounters with leopard seals and humpback whales, visits to Port Lockroy, Lemaire Channel and South Shetland Islands, and sailings further south along the Antarctic Peninsula than most other cruise options, returning finally to the starting point of vibrant Buenos Aires. Depart: February 9, 2024 Prices: From $26,215 pp*, including economy flights Save up to: $11,424 pp
$2,500 PP* BONUS CREDIT FOR SELECT 2022 DEPARTURES Cruise&Travel
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* Prices subject to availability. For terms and conditions, visit scenic.com.au/terms-and-conditions More: Scenic.com.au/cruises/antarctica
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Upfront
Offbeat
Silversea has unveiled a 136-day world cruise for 2025 aboard the line’s newest ship, Silver Dawn. Departing from Tokyo, the voyage visits 59 destinations across 30 countries. The cruise line has named this itinerary Controtempo, a musical term that translates to “off tempo”, reflecting the off-the-beaten path destinations, including 19 maiden ports, visited in non-traditional seasons. The voyage is split up into 10 segments and features seven exclusive events, including a private dining experience in Vietnam’s My Son Sanctuary, a Bollywood musical in Mumbai, a private tour of Egypt’s Abdeen Presidential Palace and a gala and evening dinner at Versailles.
Hyper local
Princess has launched three new Local Connections programs in Australia, giving cruisers a taste of Australia’s food, wine, Indigenous and wildlife experiences. One of the tours is with Salty Dog Sea Kayaking in the Whitsundays; guests will paddle through the crystal-clear waters to see local wildlife such as turtles and snorkel on a half-day adventure. In Port Douglas, Port on a Plate food tours explore the regional cuisine, visiting a barramundi farm as well as a local winery and a sugar cane plantation. And Mandingalbay Ancient Indigenous Tours in Cairns welcomes cruisers with a smoking ceremony before explaining the relationship Aboriginal people have with the land and their intricate history and culture.
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To your health
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he Oberoi Marrakech has launched a new holistic wellness program called SAHA, which is dedicated to helping guests attain their best possible wellbeing outcomes. The Arabic word “saha” means “health” and can refer to the benefits of a body and mind in balance. There are four aspects to the hotel’s program: Soul & Spirit, Active Body, Holistic Treatments, and A Better Plate. The SAHA experience offers guests highly personalised wellness plans and packages: guests can opt for a three- to seven-day program that includes a deluxe pool villa stay along with a range of treatments, therapies and wellness activities. There are also five- to seven-day programs featuring nurturing therapies such as horse whispering, which is said to help guests gain a better understanding of themselves through equine interactions. Cruise &Travel
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ANTARCTICA 2023 & 2024 Ultra-Luxury Expedition Voyages
Soar above and beyond#
Dive deep below #
Enjoy the pristine landscapes of Antarctica in truly all-inclusive ultra-luxury. Marvel at penguins, whales and seals by Zodiac. Kayak past immense ice formations and dive below by submarine#. Choose to fly straight into Antarctica with our new Fly the Drake voyage. Or delve deeper into the Weddell Sea with a helicopter excursion# to see the famed Emperor penguins of Snow Hill Island.
WILD ANTARCTICA: FLY THE DRAKE
ANTARCTICA & THE WEDDELL SEA
Chile Argentina 1 1
Punta Arenas
6
Port Lockroy (801S)
Argentina
SAVE from $3,665*pp on your suite PLUS Economy flights included*
Buenos Aires
SAVE from $5,130*pp on your suite PLUS Economy flights included*
1
Ushuaia
King George Island
Beagle Channel Drake Passage South Orkney Islands 13 South Shetland Islands
Antarctic Peninsula
Lemaire Channel
Weddell Sea Antarctic Circle
9 Days from $20, 750*pp in a Deluxe Verandah Suite Punta Arenas > Punta Arenas Departing 25 Dec 2023, 14 Jan & 03 Feb 2024
DISCOVERY YACHT EXPERIENCE Small ship cruising for only up to 200 guests
(901S)
Port Lockroy Lemaire Channel
Antarctic Weddell Peninsula Sea Antarctic Circle
16 Days from $23,890*pp in Deluxe Verandah Suite Buenos Aires > Buenos Aires Departing 5 Dec & 13 Dec 2023
TRULY ALL-INCLUSIVE ULTRA-LUXURY All meals, premium beverages+ and Discovery excursions are included
CRUISE WITH CONFIDENCE Enhanced health and safety protocols to safeguard the wellbeing of guests and crew
Now is the time to book and secure this limited Super Earlybird offer Call: 1300 947 488 or your Scenic Travel Advisor, visit scenic.com.au | Order a copy of our brochure *Terms and Conditions apply. Advertised price is inclusive of the Super Earlybird Saving plus Economy Flights Included if available. Super Earlybird (SEB) Offers: Strictly limited suites available on set departures, subject to availability and until sold out. Offers and discounts are for new bookings only, non-transferable, non-refundable and cannot be redeemed for cash. Offers can’t be combined with any other offer and may be withdrawn at any time. SEB offers are available on all cabins, excluding categories D, GP, P, and OP. SEB offers not available for bookings using a Future Travel Credit (FTC) Voucher. Up to 10% Pay In Full offer is available on all suites, full payment must be received 12 months’ prior for the discount to apply. Once sold out or if full payment is not received the standard Fare will apply. Economy Flights Included to Antarctica - Economy Class Flights Included offer is up to the airfare value of $1,500 per person and is available on selected Antarctica voyages. If the required airfare is greater than $1,500 air surcharges will apply. All Flight offers are based on departures from selected ports within Australia and are subject to availability. Offers are with an airline and in a particular class of Our choice. If that airline and/or class is not available a surcharge may apply. We reserve the right to use an alternative airline of Our choice. Flights must be booked by Scenic. All airfare deals are subject to availability and scheduled for travel to meet the brochure tour departure dates. Offer is combinable with EB Fare and Pay In Full offer. +All drinks on board are included except for a very small number of rare, fine vintage wines, Champagnes and spirits. # Flights on board two helicopter and submarine at additional cost, subject to regulatory approval, availability, weight restrictions, medical approval and weather and ice conditions. Price based on 801S251223 in a Cat DB: Deluxe Verandah Suite and 901S051223 in a Cat DA: Deluxe Verandah Suite. Prices and availability correct as of 1 August 2022. For full terms and conditions, visit scenic.com.au/terms. ABN 85 002 715 602
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We’re all blessed with One Life, but within it there is literally a world of possibilities just waiting to be explored. It’s our mission here at Imagine Holidays to help you discover this incredible planet, to inspire you and help you experience as many unforgettable moments as possible. We strive to take you beyond your holiday dreams and constantly search for new travel experiences that will exceed your expectations, whether you’re looking to unwind on sugar-white shores, lose yourself in glorious sceneries, cruise the seven seas or uncover rich histories during a tour. Discover our exclusive range of Imagine Holidays. These are once in a lifetime adventures including unforgettable tours, fabulous sailings around the world and epic journeys on board some of the world’s finest locomotives.
C U R AT E D BY O U R
Find our latest collection enclosed Discover the world with Imagine Holidays Africa | Australasia | Asia | Europe | North America | South America
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(03)8594 85944417 4417 (03) Excellent Excellent
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Upfront
Crystal comeback
Making waves Johanna Ortiz one-shoulder swimsuit, $450.
Bawah is back
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rystal Cruises was thrown a lifeline by Abercrombie & Kent Travel Group, which purchased two Crystal ships and the rights to the brand name. While the finer details are still being worked out, it was revealed Crystal Symphony and Crystal Serenity could both be sailing in 2023, with bookings said to be on their way soon, according to Cristina Levis, CEO of A&K Travel Group. Guests will be able to make ‘open bookings’, then when suite categories, itineraries and pricing are announce, they will have priority when securing their chosen voyages and staterooms. Crystal crew members are also being given a chance to return for new sailings. Crystal Endeavor was purchased by Silversea, Crystal Esprit was snapped up by Lindblad Expeditions, and five other Crystal ships are still having their fates decided.
Remote Indonesian eco-resort Bawah Reserve, in the Anambas Islands group between Singapore and Borneo, has reopened after two years, with the property boasting some fabulous new offerings. Six new cliffside lodges make up the Elang Private Residence, offering the ultimate exclusive take-over for groups of family and friends of up to 20 adults. Guests will have the run of the island and exclusive access to a private
beach, an open-air, two-storey Club House restaurant and bar, a Beach House with lagoon views, the Kayu Spa and an activities lawn as well as a saltwater infinity pool refreshed with every tide. The lodges, which were created by Singaporean designer Sim Boon Yang using recycled natural materials, will offer guests private butler service, a balcony with ocean views and private paths to pretty beaches and rocky coves.
Feeling Sicily Dolce & Gabbana cotton-poplin midi-dress, $2,800.
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IN DINING HEAVEN
As part of its 10th anniversary celebrations, InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort, in central Vietnam, has created a four-course dining adventure making the most its unique funicular railway. The Nam Tram railway was designed by renowned resort architect Bill Bensley to transport arriving guests from the elevated base of Heaven through to Sky and Earth stations before arriving at the beachside section of the resort via the Sea station. Following welcome cocktails at Citron
restaurant 100 metres above the sea at the Heaven station, the Nam Tram Dining Journey continues with a dish of Alaskan king crab with caviar. You’ll then ride the Nam Tram to the Sky station for champagne and on to the Earth and Sea stations, sampling gourmet delights such as abalone soup and premium Japanese wagyu steak at the resort’s La Maison 1888, the first restaurant in Vietnam to feature a Michelin-starred chef. The memorable journey ends with a decadent dessert at the beachside Long Bar.
Aman’s Americas
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emote Lands, an American luxury tour operator, is offering small-group private jet journeys featuring Aman’s American properties from January 2023. You’ll journey through the United States, Bermuda, Turks and Caicos, Dominican Republic and Mexico over 14 nights as up to 14 guests fly aboard a gorgeous Bombardier Global Express 6000 jet and stay in five sumptuous Aman properties. The journey begins at the newly opened Aman New York, before continuing to Turks and Caicos for a stay at Amanyara, with land and sea activities such as yacht excursions and more. Next is the Amanera in the Dominican Republic, then it’s on to Canyon Point, Utah for a stay at Amangiri and then Amangani in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Here, guests will be able to ski, snowshoe in Grand Teton National Park, go dog sledding, heli-ski and take a private tour of Yellowstone National Park.
Weave some magic Bottega Veneta padded cassette bag, $5,540.
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Voyages poised to make history Celebrating 130 years of sailing Norway’s extraordinary coast with two iconic voyages to the northernmost reaches of the world.
Scan to start exploring today
New Voyages Svalbard Express | 16 Days Visit the Lofoten Islands, Vesterålen and the North Cape. North Cape Express | 16 Days Visit Oslo, southern Norway including Bergen and scenic cruising through Hardangerfjord. Norway’s Coastal Kitchen Enjoy fresh local produce sourced from the areas we sail to. This includes access to an à la carte restaurant, whisky tastings, cooking classes and onboard entertainment. Wildlife Polar bears, reindeer, bearded seals and different birdlife. VOYAGES FROM ONLY
$4,054
pp*
Explore today
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BARENTS SEA
North Cape 71°N
Honningsvåg
Alta Tromsø
THE LYNGEN ALPS
Vesterålen
Stokmarknes
Lødingen
Trollfjord
Svolvær Lofoten
66°33'N
ARCTIC
CIRCLE THE SEVEN SISTERS
Coast of Helgeland
Brønnøysund TORGHATTEN
Rørvik NORWEGIAN SEA
North Cape Express
Sail under the majestic Northern Lights The North Cape Express makes history as the first Hurtigruten Norwegian Coastal Express to sail from Oslo, the country’s vibrant capital. Over 16 days, it will reach both Norway’s southernmost and northernmost points, including the snow-covered reaches of the North Cape, 71 degrees far-north.
Along the way it will take in stunning fjords and dramatic landscapes, and the idyllic charm of the countless colourful villages that dot the length of the coastline.
Molde
Ålesund
NORWAY Bergen
Oslo
Hardangerfjord
Watch as the Northern Lights dance across the night sky from the comfort of the deck or your cabin on board the refurbished MS Trollfjord.
Oslofjord
Haugesund
NORTH SEA
Kristiansand
Farsund
LINDESNES
SKAGERRAK
Life on board has certainly come a long way since that maiden journey in 1893: guests on the North Cape Express (as on the Svalbard express) can expect premium offerings like wine, beer, champagne and whisky tastings, cooking classes, a cocktail bar and other on-board entertainment.
Northern Lights Promise* — If the Aurora Borealis does not appear on a Northern Lights season cruise, receive a free 6 or 7-day Classic Voyage.
North Cape 71°N
BARENTS SEA
H 80° NORT
BARENTS SEA
Honningsvåg KONGSFJORD
Ny-Ålesund ISFJORD
Tromsø
Long yearbyen
Senja
THE LYNGEN ALPS
Vesterålen
SVALBARD
Stokmarknes Trollfjord
Svolvær
South Cape
North Cape Træna 71°N
BARENTS SEA
H 80° NORT
KONGSFJORD
Lofoten
Bjørnøya
Hurtigruten are the only operator of this iconic route, and remain as much of a lifeline as between 1968 and 1982, when it initially ran.
THE SEVEN
About as far north as you can go, SvalbardSouth is Cape an archipelago situated around 900 kilometres further north than the tip of mainland Norway. There are more polar bears than people here, Bjørnøya and swathes of stunning endless white that leave you in no doubt that you are at the very top of the world. Over 16 days the Svalbard Express will take in some of the Norwegian coast’s most epic destinations: the stunning Lofoten Islands, historic Vesterålen and the North Cape — before heading north to Longyearbyen, the world’s northernmost populated city.
Coast of Helgeland
Tromsø
Long yearbyen
THE LYNGEN N O R W E G I A N ALPS Senja
Vesterålen
SEA
Stokmarknes Trollfjord
The Svalbard Express reflects Hurtigruten’s love of bold exploration.
CI RC LE
SISTERS Honningsvåg Brønnøysund
Ny-Ålesund
SVALBARD
Explore the realm of the Polar Bear
AR CT IC
TORGHATTEN
ISFJORD
Svalbard Express
B A R E N T S 66 °3 3'N SEA
Svolvær
Ålesund
Lofoten
AR CT IC
CI RC LE
NORWAY
66 °3 3'N
Træna NORTH THE SEVEN SISTERS SEA TORGHATTEN
Åndalsnes Urke
Hjørundfjord
Bergen
Brønnøysund
Coast of Helgeland NORWEGIAN SEA
Ålesund
Åndalsnes Urke
Hjørundfjord
NORWAY NORTH SEA
Bergen
Call 1300 322 062 or visit hurtigruten.com.au *Terms & Conditions apply. ‘From’ price correct as of 8 Aug 2022 and is subject to availability based on North Cape Express Dec 5 2023 departure.
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Collaboration
Take a Captain Cook at Fiji
Clockwise from top: On a Captain Cook Cruise in Fiji you can meet the locals; kayak crystal-clear bays; and snorkel colourful reefs.
Cruising S Fiji FIJI ISLANDS
ince reopening in May, Fiji is once again delighting travellers who pass through its glittering shores. A great advantage to cruising Fiji versus land travel is that ships will not only take you out to unspoiled, white-sand islands scattered around Fiji, but most cruises will also offer the chance to visit some of the South Pacific’s other intriguing islands, each with their own unique blend of natural beauty and rich culture. Whether you’re looking to dive among colourful corals or just prop yourself up on the beach, Fiji is a destination of indulgence and the perfect chance to intersperse some luxurious amenities into your overseas excursion. If you’re ready to treat yourself and get pampered in the Pacific, here are some of the best luxurious cruise lines that visit Fiji, as well as some local favourites.
The Great Reef Papeete to Bali cruise and 18-night Sydney to Papeete Secret Isles of the South Pacific cruise both visit Fiji’s stunning shores. You’ll have the chance to check out Fiji as well as some of its neighbours, like French Polynesia and American Samoa. For a stand-out shore excursion, sign up for Spices of Fiji, a journey into Suva that focuses on the culinary specialties of the area.
+ Regent Seven Seas
+ Ponant
The luxurious all-inclusive cruising style of Regent Seven Seas is perfect for a South Pacific cruise. Its 25-night Secret Isles & 40
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For an expedition experience that is still steeped in luxury, visit Fiji with Ponant. Some highlight itineraries include the Cruise &Travel
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Fiji, Tonga, Cook and Society Islands 14-day cruise, which will take you through crystal-clear lagoons and ecological wonders for two weeks of spectacular sailing. Or for something different, you can go between Fiji and Bali over 16 nights for around the same price. If you want to learn, or already know, how to scuba-dive, Ponant will take you to Fiji’s stunning coral reefs for a chance to explore an incredible underwater world.
just one among a plethora of jawdropping journeys along the way.
+ Paul Gauguin
Paul Gauguin Cruises focuses only on the South Pacific, meaning you know you’re getting a personalised and carefully curated experience when you’re sailing with the line. You can go between Bali and Fiji and you can also have more in-depth cultural experience on an 11-night Fiji, Tonga, Cook and Society Islands cruise.
+ Seabourn
Seabourn has everything from 14-day voyages from Lautoka, the second largest city in Fiji, to Sydney via Cairns, to a 26-day Australia, Fiji and French Polynesia cruise that will give you a solid focus on Fiji and the surrounding countries, all the way up to epic cruises like the 65-day Pacific Gems cruise, departing on March 9, 2023, for more than two months of epic cruising. Shore excursions range from history-based tours around Fiji’s government house to visits to remote Dravuni Island, where you’ll be greeted by the local community, and longboat cruises past some of Fiji’s freest flowing waterfalls.
Land of contrasts options if you’re looking to pay a visit. You can head out there straight from Sydney, on an 18-day voyage leaving for Tahiti on February 28, 2023, with scuba, snorkelling, boating, rainforest visits and more on the menu for your time in Fiji. To mix it into something even more spectacular, you can try a 57-day Auckland to Los Angeles cruise, leaving on February 24, 2024, with Fiji being
From top: Taking a dip in Bouma National Heritage Park, and sipping kava on Turtle Island with Captain Cook Cruises; spotting dolphins with Paul Gauguin Cruises; seeing authentic Fiij with Blue Lagoon Cruises.
+ Captain Cook Cruises
If you’re looking for something maybe shorter, but also with a stronger focus on Fiji itself, you can try sailing with local experts Captain Cook Cruises. For a side of Fiji you haven’t seen, you can try the three-night Southern Yasawa Islands cruise, where rugged scenery transitions into beautiful lush vegetation, with new volcanic craters, coral reefs and islands to see every day. Or you can opt for the sevennight Remote North Discovery cruise that takes you to the striking mountain range on Vanua Levu island, with both land and marine wildlife abundant.
+ Blue Lagoon Cruises
Blue Lagoon Cruises not only offers in-depth expirations into Fiji, but also operates with a 100 per cent Fijian crew to give you guaranteed insights in the local culture and traditions. Itineraries range from three to seven nights: whichever you opt for, you can be sure you’re getting an authentic look into Fijian life and that you’ll be taken to beautiful blue waters and landscapes that will leave a lasting impression. CT
+ Silversea
For a perfect journey, leaving on April 26, 2023, you can start out in Lautoka and cruise for 17 days back to Cairns, all in the luxury of a Silversea cruise. There are also other itineraries, like a 13-day cruise from Tahiti to Lautoka leaving April 12, 2023 or, for something much sooner, leave Cairns on September 24, 2022 and sail for 16 days out to Lautoka. There are plenty of expedition-focused activities like snorkelling, but you can also just soak in the warm welcome you received on the islands and take guided village tours.
+ Oceania
Fiji is a common stop on Oceania cruises, meaning there are plenty of Cruise &Travel
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Dubrovnik, Croatia
DISCOVER THE ENCHANTMENT OF EUROPE AND SAVE Sail along the colourful Croatian coast or voyage with us as we navigate the Guadalquivir River to dock in the heart of Seville, one of the most beautiful cities in Spain and enjoy an overnight stay or two. With Azamara®, you can enjoy your destination by day and night, and right now, you can Save up to 15%* on select 2023 sailings. Set out on an Icelandic adventure, explore ancient cities like Gythion, Greece and futuristic Dubai or bask under the sun on a remote island. With savings like these, where can we take you? Azamara® itineraries are designed to give you more time in port and include late-night stays and even overnights, so you can dive deeper into your destination and gain a greater sense of a place through its people, history, culture and cuisine. In addition, you’ll always enjoy inclusive amenities featuring included gratuities, exclusive cultural events, select beverages and more. Let us show you the world like you’ve only imagined, by day and night.
BOOK BY 9TH DECEMBER 2022!* CALL: 1800 570 552 VISIT: AZAMARA.COM/EN-AU/SAVE15 CONTACT: YOUR TRAVEL AGENT Change The Way You Sea
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*Savings applicable on specified dates only. Offer available on selected 2023 voyages. See our website for full details and Terms & Conditions. ©2022 Azamara. Ships registered in Malta. ‘Change The Way You Sea’ is an international service mark of SP Cruises OpCo Limited.
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Oceans 44 Luxe local excursions | 52 Baltic with Oceania | 58 Viking’s Great Lakes
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Hip ahoy!
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f LUXE for SHORE
From scenic flights to private dinners, the top cruise lines’ 2023 Australian shore excursions give you a taste – and a tasting – of the best our country has to offer. By Michael Turtle.
rom the red rocks of the Kimberley to the glistening white sands of the Whitsundays, the view of Australia’s coastline is one of the highlights for the cruises that traverse our waters. But there’s only so much you can see and do from the ship: as you pull into port, the destinations reveal their splendour. Just as everything at sea has become more opulent over the years, so have the offerings available to passengers when they arrive at a destination, with the transition from onboard to onshore becoming more discreetly seamless, stepping from a luxury suite to an exclusive experience. From wildlife encounters, luxury yachts and special access to some of Australia’s most iconic landmarks, there are dozens of exceptional ways cruise passengers can explore the country.
> NSW
Days of wine and oysters
Clockwise from above: At Krinklewood winery and Bistro Molines, both in the Hunter Valley; fresh oysters at Wheelers Seafood Restaurant, Pambula; Captain Sponges Magical Oyster Tours on Pambula Lake.
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Sydney shines bright for any cruise passenger, particularly those who dock with the Sydney Opera House or Harbour Bridge as the view from their room – although both sites are also worth seeing up close, which is why shore excursions will take passengers behind the scenes of Sydney Opera House’s concert hall or climb to the top of the bridge. For a special Sydney experience, Seabourn can fly you on a seaplane direct from the harbour to the Hawkesbury River for stunning views of the city and Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, before landing in front of the exclusive Cottage Point Inn for a long lunch surrounded by the sounds of the wildlife. Coral Expeditions also makes the most of Sydney Harbour on its signature voyages, with passengers boarding one of two historic tall ships for a friendly race across the water, past the city’s famous sights. Celebrity Cruises offers a trip from Newcastle port to the Hunter Valley where, among the eucalyptus trees, guests can taste the semillon the wine region is famous for, plus a four-course degustation menu that showcases some of the best other local products. When Azamara returns to Australia at the end of 2022, it will offer a private helicopter transfer from Sydney to the Hunter Valley for a locally sourced lunch with matching wines. Or, further down the New South Wales coast at Eden, you can head out on the clear waters of Pambula Lake to help a veteran farmer harvest, shuck and taste Sydney rock oysters. Cruise &Travel
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> NT
Cruises along the Northern Territory coast take passengers from the cosmopolitan streets of Darwin to the heart of ancient cultures in Arnhem Land, with opportunities to access some of Australia’s greatest national parks. While many ships will offer the opportunity to visit Litchfield National Park from Darwin, Celebrity Cruises has the option for you to hop on a helicopter and fly over the park to take in the vistas of cascades and sandstone outcrops from the air, gaining a different perspective of its dramatic rocky escarpments and waterfalls. Although Uluru is a long way from the coast, Coral Expeditions has a special signature event that flies guests from Darwin to explore the Red Centre within a day. The private charter flight arrives in time for a traditional welcome, a tour of the main sights, sunset drinks at Kata Tjuṯa, and dinner at the iconic Sounds of Silence under the bright desert sky, before returning to Darwin that evening. And Scenic will make its ocean cruising debut in Australia in 2024, with an inaugural 29-day cruise from Newcastle to Broome. As the Scenic Eclipse explores the Northern Territory, one of the highlights will be a visit to Cobourg Peninsula at the very tip of the Top End, where local guides will take guests on bush-tucker safaris and into the rugged national park in open-back 4WDs, for a more adventurous type of luxury experience. Cruise&Travel
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Natural wonders
Clockwise from above: Picking the perfect waterhole in Litchfield National Park; checking out termite mounds before cooling off in Litchfield National Park; a memorable Sounds of Silence dinner at Ayers Rock Resort.
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> QLD
In Far North Queensland, two of Australia’s most recognisable UNESCO World Heritage-listed sites form the background for cruises travelling along the coast. A stop at Port Douglas provides the opportunity to explore where the rainforest meets the reef, with excursions into the Daintree Rainforest’s Mossman Gorge, and out to the Great Barrier Reef, where you can swim and snorkel among tropical fish and colourful coral. Princess offers a shore excursion to see a different side of the rainforest region around Port Douglas, with a local chef leading guests to his favourite farms to taste sugar cane and chocolate and collect fresh produce that will star in a three-course lunch. Back on the water, Coral Expeditions takes its yacht-like 72-guest Coral Discoverer right up to an isolated speck of sand at Sudbury Cay near Cairns for exclusive sunset drinks in the middle of the reef. For many luxury cruises, the Whitsundays is the focus of their time in Queensland, with a range of ways to explore the Great Barrier Reef. Cunard offers a day on a yacht, sailing between islands with snorkelling and swimming and a gourmet lunch onboard, or a scenic flight that takes passengers over famous Whitehaven Beach and out to photogenic Heart Reef. Silversea includes a catamaran trip to Whitehaven Beach, with its pristine sand lined with tropical vegetation; while Scenic’s 2024 voyage will host a decadent barbecue at Whitehaven, including time to swim, hike or just relax in paradise!
SHORE EXCURSIONS
From rainforest to sandy beaches
Clockwise from top right: On a guided Aboriginal walk in Mossman Gorge; exploring Whitehaven Beach in the Whitsundays; going with the flow on Mossman River; idyllic Whitehaven Beach.
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> SA
Some of Australia’s best wine regions are found around Adelaide and they make for excellent day trips from the city. Celebrity offers an excursion to the Barossa Valley for lunch at Maggie Beer’s Farm Shop and Restaurant, the home of the famed Australian cook, with an interactive cooking demonstration that is then served as the meal with matching wine. For those who prefer a shorter drive, another Celebrity excursion heads to the Penfolds Magill Estate on Adelaide’s fringes for a guided tour of the vineyard and vintage cellar, with a three-course lunch complemented by fine wines. Coffin Bay, on the tip of the Eyre Peninsula, is another popular South Australian destination, and here APT takes its passengers on a purpose-built boat to glide through the oyster leases to taste the shellfish direct from the ocean, before travelling to the stunning Almonta Beach where sand dunes roll down to the clear water. Coral Expeditions also has a trip from Coffin Bay that includes the remote Flinders Island, where guests can taste fresh Eyerwoold abalone straight from the source, served in a polished shell as part of an intimate beachside cooking experience. Cruise&Travel
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The good life
Top: The Tasting Bar at Penfolds Magill Estate. Clockwise from above: Penfolds’ Magill Estate Kitchen; 1802 Oyster Bar in Coffin Bay; Maggie Beer; Almonta Beach on Eyre Peninsula.
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> TAS
In Hobart, Celebrity can take guests up close to Tasmania’s famed nature with a unique after-hours tour of Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary after the public has left for the day. As the nocturnal animals become more active, you’ll be able to see (and sometimes feed) the kangaroos, wallabies, and the iconic Tasmanian devils. An intimate small-group tour also takes Celebrity passengers down to beautiful Bruny Island to taste a range of locally produced food and wine, from fresh oysters and fish to decadent local cheeses. With whiskey tasting, chocolate and truffles, and a gourmet lunch at the southernmost vineyard in Australia, it’s bound to satisfy any gourmand. In the north of the state, a morning at the former gold-mining town of Beaconsfield with APT is complemented by a spectacular afternoon journey into the Tamar Valley, where rolling green vineyards blanket the riverbanks, with stops for tastings at two of Australia’s leading sparkling-wine producers, Pipers Brook and Jansz. Or there’s Cunard’s five-night Great Australian Culinary Voyage in January, which will call into Burnie on the state’s north coast. As well as celebrity chef Matt Moran creating meals on board, there will be bespoke food activities on shore, continuing the evolution of the cruise industry’s commitment to luxury at every point of the journey. 48
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Indulgence, naturally Bruny Island Cheese Company, on southern Tasmania’s Bruny Island; meeting a Tasmanian devil; Jansz Tasmania vineyard, in the Tamar Valley near Launceston; Hellyers Road Distillery in Burnie.
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> VIC
Between the fine dining, singleorigin coffee and boutique shopping, Melbourne is one of the most stylish ports of call for any Australian cruise. But beyond the city, there are some wonderful luxury experiences available that showcase even more of the region. Join Regent Seven Seas for a mineralbathing excursion at the 19th-century Hepburn Springs Bathhouse near Daylesford, where a spa coach will help select the best treatment for you before you soak in the mineral-rich waters and take advantage of the detoxifying Moroccan hammam. Or perhaps you’ll find replenishment on the Regent Seven Seas trip to the unspoiled You Yangs Regional Park near Geelong, where a nature guide leads guests through a eucalyptus forest that’s home to wild koalas, before drinks and snacks at sunset in bushland teeming with eastern grey kangaroos. Taking to the air, Princess has an optional helicopter ride around Phillip Island for epic views of Cowes township, Seal Rocks and the Grand Prix circuit (and possibly even some penguins for the eagle-eyed). For an alternative aviation experience, Azamara has a chopper flight along the dramatic cliffs of the Shipwreck Coast that lands near the Twelve Apostles for a premium three-course meal before the return flight to Melbourne over the Great Ocean Road.
SHORE EXCURSIONS
From the coast to spa country
From top: Loch Ard Gorge on the Great Ocean Road; You Yangs Regional Park near Geelong; Hepburn Springs Bathhouse; Clifftop at Hepburn luxury villa in Hepburn, Victoria.
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> WA
A land of contrasts
From top: The Bungle Bungle Range in Purnululu National Park; dining at the Leeuwin Estate Restaurant in Margaret River; hiking through Echidna Chasm in Purnululu National Park; Leeuwin Estate Winery.
Along the northern coast of Western Australia, where dramatic red land meets turquoise waters, some of the most remote parts of the country are accessible only by boat. At Bigge Island, about six kilometres from the mainland, APT brings in its Le Laperouse expedition ship so guests can head onshore for a guided tour of the incredible Indigenous rock art, with the detailed paintings of Wunambal people seeming to stare into your soul. Sunsets in this part of WA are as vibrantly red as its rocks, and Coral Expeditions pulls its 120-guest ship into a deserted Kimberley beach so guests can enjoy an exclusive barbecue on the sand as the sky turns to flames. To experience the region from the air during the day, Silversea offers a scenic flight over the expansive Lake Argyle to Purnululu National Park, with the iconic orange and black domes of the Bungle Bungles rising from the earth. And some of Ponant’s Kimberley Coast Sailing expeditions include a flight over Kuri Bay onboard a Paspaley Grumman Mallard seaplane, while a helicopter flight to the rugged and remote landscapes of Mitchell Falls is also an option. In the south-west of the state, Coral Expeditions takes guests to a private dinner at the charming Leeuwin Estate winery in Margaret River, where the winemakers and chef introduce a four-course degustation meal with matching wines. For even more variety, APT’s tasting tour of this iconic Australian wine region begins at a local chocolatier before visiting several wineries to try a range of exquisite chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. CT
SHORE EXCURSIONS
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Baltic
odyssey
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Cruising the Baltic Sea on Oceania’s Marina, there are plenty of fascinating – if not downright surprising – shore excursions to enjoy across Scandinavia and eastern Europe, reports Louise Goldsbury.
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W
hile some travellers postpone their plans to take a Baltic cruise, others book a shore excursion to a former Soviet nuclear missile base. On another tour, when an F-16 flies overhead, the guide says it “shows Russia we’re watching them”, and we carry on tasting Danish wines. The next day, in a Swedish village, a man with a crossbow walks toward a crowd of people brandishing swords, and everyone cheers. Oceania’s 10-night cruise from Copenhagen on Marina is full of surprises. For a start, the itinerary has changed since Saint Petersburg was scrapped, but the revised line-up is exceptional. The ship calls at seven countries, so each morning delivers a different culture, cuisine, language and landscape. Ports of call include Kiel, Germany; the small island of Bornholm, Denmark; Klaipéda, a harbour town in Lithuania; Riga, the architectural and cultural capital of Latvia; the cobblestoned beauties of Tallinn, Estonia, and Visby, Sweden; Helsinki and Kotka in Finland; and an overnight stay in Stockholm. The optional shore excursions are as diverse as the destinations. There are visits to farms, palaces, breweries, a former concentration camp, a Nordic sauna and an ice bar. Activities range from extreme rafting and forest hiking to a speedboat adventure around the Finnish archipelago. A selection of Oceania Exclusive tours is limited to 16 guests sightseeing by bus, or small groups on guided bike tours. For travellers who don’t want to be tourists, Go Local outings have you spending the day walking, catching public transport, grabbing snacks in cafés and shopping in supermarkets. Our trip to the Plokstine Missile Base and Cold War Museum, in north-west Lithuania, Nuts about the Baltic is fascinating but also entertaining, as we have Opposite: Stockholm’s a local guide with a great sense of humour and picturesque Old “the most sober driver in Lithuania”. The Town quarter. former launch site is a labyrinth of tunnels, Below: The Baltic command rooms, exhibits of military items and Sea port of Klaipéda propaganda posters, and the huge shaft where in Lithuania.
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Voyage
OCEANIA MARINA
Fascinating excursions
From top: Exploring Denmark’s Bornholm Island; the charming town of Visby, on the Swedish island of Gotland.
“A NEW LATVIAN COOKING CLASS IS HELD IN THE SHIP’S CULINARY CENTER, AFTER GUESTS GO SHOPPING FOR INGREDIENTS WITH THE CHEF.”
ballistic missiles were stored around 30 metres underground for almost two decades, until 1978. On the day we visit Visby, it happens to be during Medieval Week, which explains the hundreds of people with weapons. Dressed up in costumes, they re-enact battle scenes, complete with jousting and music, or parade around the streets as knights, queens and peasants. Every other week of the year, the walled Old Town is an enchanting place to explore Gothic church ruins, the impressive Saint Mary’s Cathedral and wooden cottages covered in roses, enclosed within 13th-century stone fortifications. The Danish winery is one of the stops on the Taste of Bornholm tour. Peacocks wander around the vines as the quirky owner, Jasper, introduces us to his 500-kilogram, cola-guzzling pig, before we sample strawberry wine and honey schnapps. Afterwards, we go to a sausage factory and a smoked-fish café to try the local delicacies with a beer.
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ood and wine tours are popular on cruises operated by Oceania, which is renowned for its fine cuisine, drawing epicureans from Australia, the US, UK and Europe. A new Latvian cooking class is held in the ship’s Culinary Center, after guests go shopping for ingredients with the chef in a local market ashore. Another lunch excursion is to a photography museum’s zero-waste restaurant, Fotografiska, which was recently awarded a Michelin green star, in Tallinn. Dining onboard is an absolute highlight. Dinner at the four specialty restaurants – Jacques (French), Toscana (Italian), Red Ginger (Asian) and Polo Grill (American steakhouse) – is included in the fares, making it possible to enjoy each one twice. The buffet, poolside grill and 24-hour room service are complimentary, too. In the two years since Australians have cruised overseas, many improvements have been made, as the executive
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team kept working to finesse the food and beverages. “We have not rested on our laurels,” said Howard Sherman, president and CEO of Oceania Cruises. “Throughout the pandemic we have continued to innovate and to challenge ourselves to raise the bar to delight our guests. We announced the second phase of culinary enhancements rolling out across the fleet. Together with thoughtfully crafted dining experiences, menus and elevated service levels, this next phase brings new wine-tasting programs, expanded in-room dining offerings and a soufflé of the day in the Grand Dining Room.” The souffles certainly deserve special mention: green apple martini, chestnut and pear, pistachio and cherry, lime and limoncello, and Grand Marnier, to name a few. When sitting down to four or five courses seems too much, Marina has plenty of peaceful hideaways. On select evenings, local wines, spirits and market-fresh tapas are served in Baristas, a quiet venue next to the library. The poolside grill is also handy for a gourmet burger or salad from an extensive menu. Room service is the obvious alternative to restaurants. Among the new dishes available for in-room dining are an Alaskan salmon burger, Hawaiian poké bowl, Thai coconut red curry, miso ramen soup, and chocolate mousse cake. Hot breakfasts can also be delivered, free of charge, to cabins and suites. Chef Alexis Quaretti, director of culinary programs, has been busy developing new recipes for Oceania’s next ship, Vista, set to be launched in April 2023. “We are not a cruise line to do molecular cuisine. What’s very important to me is simplicity: the taste, the ingredients and the execution of the dishes,” he said. “By the time we open Vista, we will have more than 400 new recipes, which will eventually align with the rest of the fleet.” Vista will also introduce a fantastic new cocktail list in its Casino Mixology Bar and restaurants, which we previewed on our cruise on Marina. The crowd-pleaser was anything made with a ‘flavour blaster’ device, which produces a bubble that floats in the air before bursting into a puff of smoke when it lands on the drink. Other favourites include the Picante (tequila,
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Onboard indulgences
Clockwise from above: Enjoying a treat on an Oceania cruise; preparing a Chef ’s Market Dinner; cocktail hour at La Reserve; in-suite dining.
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No vaccination required
Oceania Cruises has dropped its requirements for COVID-19 vaccinations and testing. Vaccinated passengers no longer need to show negative test results precruise. From September 2022, unvaccinated passengers can also sail, but they will need to take a test within 72 hours of boarding. According to Howard Sherman, president and CEO, Oceania Cruises, the response to the relaxed rules has been overwhelmingly positive, with a spike in bookings the week after the announcement. “We continue to navigate the pandemic as it evolves to keep people as safe as possible, and we think we’re striking the right balance,” he said. “Cruise was the only form of tourism that required vaccination, so there were people on the sidelines waiting for a further relaxation of the travel protocols, and now we can welcome them back to cruising.”
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Book it
The suite life
Opposite: Nevsky Cathedral in Tallinn, Estonia. This page, from top: A spacious Penthouse Suite and an Oceania Suite.
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apricot liqueur, honey syrup, chilli and coriander), Monkey Business (whiskey, banana liqueur, egg white) and First Avenue (bourbon, Pimm’s, sweet vermouth, St-Germain elderflower liqueur). In a partnership with Lyre’s, the non-alcoholic spirits company founded by two Australians, mocktails have also been perfected. No-Groni (a booze-free negroni) and Orchard Fizz (made with Lyre’s amaretti, fresh lemon juice, apple juice and maple syrup) are refreshingly delicious. Pierre Zéro, a French non-alcoholic wine, is also available.
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ack on Marina, I spend a silly amount of time in my Penthouse Suite, relaxing on the private balcony, and calling my fabulous butler. This accommodation category includes his services, assisting with spa appointments, shore excursion bookings, dinner reservations, collecting my laundry (three bags are complimentary), and delivering room service. One evening, I order from the main dining room menu, and he serves the three courses at my ocean-view table in the comfort of my room. Wearing a bathrobe, I watch a movie while I eat, then walk a few steps to the bathroom for a bath, before crawling into bed with a book. Sometimes it’s the simple, solo things that feel most luxurious. The ship itself is beautiful and spacious. The contemporary décor exudes a casual elegance, from
A similar 10-night cruise will be offered next year, departing from London on June 21, 2023. Ports of call include Kiel, Berlin (Warnemunde), Bornholm, Visby, Stockholm, Copenhagen and Oslo. Fares start at AUD$4,180 per person, twin share. A 10-night cruise departing London on July 16, 2024, calls at Kiel, Berlin, Bornholm, Visby, Stockholm, Klaipeda, Gdansk (Poland) and Copenhagen. Fares start at AUD$4,780 per person twin share.
the sparkling chandeliers to the Owner’s Suites furnished in Ralph Lauren Home. Marina is scheduled for a major refurbishment next year, which is set to be unveiled in November 2023. Every surface of every suite and stateroom will be new, and bathrooms will be upgraded with oversized showers. Public spaces, such as the theatre, bars and restaurants, will see new custom-made furniture, subtle lighting and plush carpets. For fans of al fresco dining, a new poolside trattoria will serve wood-fired pizzas, salads and desserts, and a standalone milkshake bar will scoop up ice-cream within a few steps of your sun-lounge.
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ceania Cruises’s four 656passenger ships – Regatta, Insignia, Nautica and Sirena – have already been revamped, while Marina’s 1,210-passenger sister ship, Riviera, will reveal its fresh look in December 2022. Although this Baltic itinerary won’t operate next year, the fleet offers several voyages that visit many of the same places, including some departing from London. According to Sherman, passengers have enjoyed the replacement ports in stunning locations. “We have had positive feedback from our loyal past guests who love to explore the beauty and wonder of Northern Europe in the summertime. From the striking natural beauty of the UNESCO-protected Curonian Spit, near Klaipéda, to the medieval charm of Old Town in Tallinn, and the cosmopolitan capital of Latvia, Riga, the destinations that we visit on this cruise are truly astounding,” Sherman said. “At Oceania Cruises, we go to great lengths to ensure that we provide guests with a carefully curated mix of experiences designed for seasoned travellers seeking a slice of the local culture.” CT Oceaniacruises.com
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Lake life
Viking’s Niagara & the Great Lakes cruise takes in the mighty waterfalls. Right: The ship’s outdoor Finse Terrace on a Great Lakes Explorer cruise.
i GRANDEUR ON THE GREAT LAKES The slick new luxury expedition ship Viking Octantis sails the lakes from Milwaukee in the United States to Thunder Bay in Canada, taking in rugged islands and stunning sounds along the way. Sue Wallace settles in for a memorable journey.
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t is quite the James Bond scenario. One minute we are in a speedy Viking Special Operations Boat wave jumping over the turquoise waters of Canada’s spectacular Silver Islet near the Sleeping Giant Provincial Park on Lake Superior, and the next sipping bubbles and toasting the pristine landscape in all its glory. Known as an SOB for short, the sleek militarygrade boat travels at high speeds and it’s a thrilling ride, reminiscent of a big-screen Bond boat chase with the wind in your hair and the occasional freshwater spray in your face, while snug in a hightech suspended seat. Guide Hans Martin, who has spent many seasons in the Arctic, spots a bald eagle soaring from afar and later talks about the windswept 30,000 islands in the archipelago – some are tiny, with just one tree. Blue skies, bright sunshine and the odd fluffy white cloud frame the pretty vistas of this remote pinetree-smothered Lake Superior coastline in Ontario. The area has a fascinating history: the equivalent in today’s currency of A$87 million of silver was extracted from a small underwater mine 384 metres below a tiny rocky island close to Silver Islet until it closed in 1884. Later we visit the historic general store and tea house on the shore of Silver Islet village, where the cinnamon buns are legendary. “This area is rich in history and just look at this spectacular scenery,” says Jeff Korkola who, with his wife Sandy, owns the store, which opened in 1871 for the mining company and miners. The original till, receipt book and miner’s felted wool helmets, covered in candle wax, that lit their way to the icy depths, are displayed. The port is a highlight of an eight-day nature-laden Great Lakes Explorer cruise from Milwaukee to Thunder Bay in the Canadian province of Ontario aboard the expedition ship Viking Octantis, which debuted this year. The Great Lakes, consisting of Superior, Michigan, Huron, Erie and Ontario, hold 21 per cent of the world’s surface fresh water. These enormous expanses of water resemble inland sea, with whitecapped waves flip-flopping backwards and forwards as the wind springs up. It’s quite different from river and ocean cruising, but just as enjoyable. Viking also offers an eight-day Niagara & the Great Lakes cruise, which continues south from Lake Huron to Lake Erie and sails to Toronto. 59
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Making waves VIKING OCTANTIS
From top: The spa pool; the clean lines of the Viking Octantis.
Favourite experience? The self-guided onboard arts trail, an ode to Nordic heritage, featuring eclectic digital and print media, sculptures, installations, photography and oil paintings that stopped me in my tracks. The many exquisite works are hand-picked and include originals by Astrid Nondal, Toril Bonsaksen, Anne Ingeborg Biringvad and Hanne Lydia Opøien Figenschou, Thore Heramb and Jakob Weidemann. What to pack? Leave your eveningwear and
stilettos at home: it’s more about being casual and comfortable on Viking Octantis. Take a warm waterproof puffer jacket for shore excursions, a fleecy top, sturdy shoes, hat, mosquito repellent and sunscreen. The sun can be fierce even on cloudy days. For evening, smart pants, shirts and casual dresses suit the expeditionstyle ship. Don’t forget your swimmers: the Nordic hydrotherapy pool is fabulous. Binoculars are supplied and wet weather pants can be borrowed. There’s a drying closet in your stateroom for damp clothes, and laundries on each floor are complimentary.
“MY HAPPY PLACE IS THE NORDIC SPA, WHICH REFLECTS THE HOLISTIC WELLNESS PHILOSOPHY OF SCANDINAVIA WITH ITS BATHING RITUALS.”
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+ The ship
Viking Octantis accommodates 378 guests and 256 crew and is a stunner. Purpose-built as an expedition ship equipped to cruise to the Antarctic and other remote destinations, it’s also big on style and comfort with luxe touches. There’s an emphasis on discovery and learning, with a 36-person strong expedition team providing opportunities to release those inner curiosities and be involved with experiments in the scientific laboratory. Guests can participate in research activities, hands-on workshops and the release of a weather balloon early one morning to gather statistics, in partnership with the University of Cambridge and Akvaplan-niva, a company attached to the Norwegian Institute for Water Research. The ship is a treasure chest of sophisticated ‘toys’, including two six-person submarines named John and Paul – they are yellow, of course, and endorse company chairman Torstein Hagen’s love of the Beatles. The other two submarines, George and Ringo, are aboard sister ship Viking Polaris, which is set to launch later this year. The 270-degree spherical windows provide a look into what lies beneath the lake waters. There are also 17 military-grade high-tech Zodiacs, 16 kayaks and two 12-seat SOBs all located in an enclosed inship marina, The Hangar, which has revolutionised boat entry for passengers from an interior slipway shielded from wind and waves. Viking Octantis features the best of Scandi design, highlighting Norwegian culture, history and eclectic decor, with amazing attention to detail. We listen to engaging lectures, documentaries and feature-length movies in the impressive panoramic auditorium, Aula Theatre. Inspired by the University of Oslo’s famed ceremonial hall, the former venue for the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony, it is home to reproductions of the three central murals that Norwegian expressionist Edvard Munch created for the original Aula, as well
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as floor-to-ceiling windows. Expedition Central is the hub for Natural beauty everything you need to know about From top: Michigan’s activities, complete with a striking Tahquamenon Falls, ceiling art installation Thinking which empties into about the Flyway by Norwegian Lake Superior; the artist Toril Bonsaksen, which living area in an illustrates the incredible migratory Explorer’s Suite. journey of a seabird. Some of my favourite haunts are the Living Room and The Library, where you can cosy up on a comfy sofa beside a faux fire and flip through beautiful books ranging from explorers’ tales, garden design and travel, curated by Heywood Hill bookshop, a literary landmark in the heart of London. Another is the outdoor Finse Terrace, with its sunken sheltered seats and lava rock ‘firepits’. It’s named after the Hagen family dog, which in turn was named after Norway’s Finse Plateau where polar explorers including Nansen and Amundsen trained. The adored dog’s paw prints are set in the floor tiles. But my happy place is the Nordic Spa, which reflects the holistic wellness philosophy of Scandinavia with its bathing rituals. It’s hard to leave the warm bubbly waters of the hydrotherapy pool, but I do and sit in the sauna, then refresh with a cold bucket shower and warm up in the traditional Norwegian badestamp, or wood-sided hot tub, open to the outside. My skin tingles in the invigorating snow shower as tiny snowflakes descend. I rub my feet in the snow mound then laze on a heated tiled bed until it’s time for a Swedish massage with deft hands. I leave completely at peace with the world and ready to sink into bed and dream of snowy adventures. My stateroom is a haven with a Nordic balcony – a large window that opens halfway down and becomes a
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Voyage For pre-dinner drinks, we head to the Explorers’ Lounge, where an Aquavit cocktail seems fitting, while after dinner we head to the Hide. Finding it is part of the charm. Nestled within the steel bow of the ship, the Hide resembles the interior of a rustic explorers’ cabin. Large, angled windows offer amazing views of the scenery during the day, while at night it’s a cosy retreat.
VIKING OCTANTIS
lookout – a bed that entices you to linger, sofa, vanity desk and a drying closet. The ensuite has a heated floor and is stocked with Freyja products, and there’s a coffee machine and mini bar. Feeling peckish? You can order 24-hour room service, then watch movies on demand, live webcams and repeats of enrichment lectures – heaven.
+ Dining
The much-loved Manfredi’s Italian restaurant offers the farm-inspired heartiness of Tuscany or the robust flavours of the northern provinces. Insalata Caprese with buffalo mozzarella, vine-ripened tomatoes and basil is followed by bistecca Fiorentina, a house special – think thick-cut rib eye coated in garlic oil and rubbed with porcini mushroom powder, kosher salt, brown sugar and red chilli flakes; it’s outstanding. There’s only one word for the grand finale tiramisu – “squisito” – exquisite. The Restaurant offers daily-changing menus and regional specialties made with fresh, local ingredients and always-available classics including the Chairman’s Choice – poached Norwegian salmon – which I love. There’s no extra charge for these two restaurants, but bookings are essential. The World Café is like a food hall, with excellent small cafés including the Grill, a sushi bar and a 24-hour bakery; you’ll also find premium seafood and international dishes. My favourite is the intimate Mamsen’s, which pays homage to Hagen’s mother, Ragnhild ‘Mamsen’ Hagen – where traditional Norwegian food stars, including split pea soup, smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches) and waffles prepared to Mamsen’s original recipe. When it comes to cake, the Suksessterte, or success cake – almond cake slathered with rich layers of vanilla custard – is downright addictive. The iconic image of Mamsen on her cross-country skis pulling her grandchild on a sled, and tableware reimagined from the plates and cups used in the family kitchen, endear this intimate dining space to many.
+ Itinerary and activities
Indulgence meets exploration
This page, from top: Impeccable service in Viking Octantis’s Living Room lounge area; crossing a gorge in Thunder Bay during a shore expedition; the ship has two six-person yellow submarines, named John and Paul. Opposite: An adventurous new shore tour exploring sea caves of the Apostle Islands.
Onboard activities include wilderness and wildlife lectures, scientific workshops, music recitals and trivia. Ports include pretty Mackinac Island, which is home to charming Victorian-era houses complete with blooming hanging baskets. It’s car-free: transport is by horse-drawn carriage. There are plenty of fudge shops, and the stately Grand Hotel is perfect for high tea. There are three stops in Georgian Bay, including Parry Sound, the town of Killarney and Frazer Bay, which are all part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. We spend a morning on deck at Soo Locks, which joins Lake Superior and Lake Huron, sipping Irish coffee to warm us. Silver Islet is our last port before disembarking in Thunder Bay. Viking Octantis merges luxury and adventure expeditions seamlessly, while awakening a spirit of discovery – no doubt it would meet with approval from Mr Bond. Great Lakes Explorer cruises on Viking Octantis depart on May 19, June 2 and June 30, 2023, priced from $8,795; vikingcruises.com.au. CT
“VIKING OCTANTIS MERGES LUXURY AND ADVENTURE EXPEDITIONS SEAMLESSLY.”
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Go with the flow
Opposite: Enjoying a scoop at Lick Me Till … Ice Cream. This page, clockwise from top left: Striking a pose at the signature restaurant Razzle Dazzle; Valiant Lady; Lick Me Till … Ice Cream parlour.
Hip ahoy! DRAG SHOWS AND WILD POOL PARTIES: THIS ISN’T YOUR TYPICAL CRUISE. Adam Coulter BOARDS VALIANT LADY, VIRGIN VOYAGES’S NEWEST SHIP IN THE MEDITERRANEAN.
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think it was when the resident drag artist did a backflip, followed by the splits, in six-inch heels that I realised that this was no ordinary cruise. Cocktails and Revelry with the Diva, in which Titi Kaka took us on a journey of glamour, attitude, huge hair and heels, was a particular standout on my week-long cruise from Barcelona, the first Mediterranean sailing of Virgin Voyages’s 2,700-passenger Valiant Lady. But it was just one of many highlights of Sir Richard Branson’s adults-only line, which the entrepreneur claims will disrupt cruising. No more set dining times, for example. Also, no naff variety shows led by the cruise director, and no dressing up for dinner (although these sorts of stereotypes have long been binned by most cruise lines). Instead, it’s multiple dining venues, resident artists from New York’s immersive theatre scene, a sex show (or, rather, a show about sex), a nightclub and pool parties. The passengers are referred to 66
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as “sailors”; it’s a voyage rather than a cruise; and the multinational staff greet you with a cheery “Ahoy!” – annoying at first, but after a while quite endearing. Virgin has gone to great lengths to make the ship look and feel exceptionally hip and cool. The nearest land equivalent would be a QT or W hotel: think purple and red accents, mood lighting, deep carpets, the quiet hum of beach-bar music wherever you go on the ship. One of the many Instagrammable spots is the sparkling infinity corridor that leads to The Manor, the onboard nightclub, designed to make you look (and feel) like a rock star. It’s the same vibe at Richard’s Rooftop (only open to suite guests), with its circular sofas, beautiful people and glass panels refracting the light into seven colours.
Hello, “sailors”
This page: Getting the party started. Opposite, clockwise from top right: Working up a sweat at the outdoor boxing ring; pretty pasta at Razzle Dazzle; in the Voyage Vinyl record store; breakfast in bed in a Sea Terrace cabin.
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“The passengers are referred to as ‘sailors’ and the multinational staff greet you with a cheery ‘Ahoy!’ – annoying at first, but after a while quite endearing.”
VALIANT LADY
ALL ABOARD
W
hen I boarded in Barcelona, Virgin had opted to dock Valiant Lady at the ferry terminal at the bottom of La Rambla, rather than the huge cruise terminal over the bridge, which meant you could walk there quite easily if you wish. Boarding was swift and efficient and took no more than 20 minutes. Service is outstanding. The crew are happy, and it shows. From the moment you step onboard you are made to feel special. Guests are issued with a small wristband with an electronic tag that you wrap around your wrist, which you keep on for the entire voyage. It’s water- and heat-resistant, so you can shower, swim and take a sauna with it on. It acts as your room key and as a payment method. The cabins are smart, modern, fitted with electronic controls for the curtains, TV and air-conditioning, and plenty of plug sockets. There are a number of very Virgin touches: as you come into the room, the lights automatically come on and the curtains open for you, almost in
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greeting. Sea Terrace Cabins (balconies, on other lines) include bright red hammocks. The shower rooms are tiny but do include a rain shower head and glass doors. Valiant Lady is built for warm climates. There is lots of outdoor space, and you are encouraged to use it. Passengers in suites have an exclusive sundeck, Richard’s Rooftop, while there are cabanas in candy-cane stripes to rent. If the main pool deck is too lively, there’s a quiet area with a huge hot tub. Overall, the quality of the food on board is high; in Wake, the ship’s smartest restaurant, I had one of the best steaks I’ve eaten. Instead of the main dining room, there is a variety of restaurants, each with a different theme — unusually for a big ship, on which you’d normally pay a supplement to eat in the best venues, these are all included in the price. Two of them, Korean barbecue restaurant Gunbae and the vegetarian Razzle Dazzle, are the first of their kind at sea. Pink Agave is a Mexican-themed venue with a mezcal bar, and Test Kitchen serves variations on molecular cuisine, while in the Galley you can have anything from fried breakfasts to bento boxes.
SPOILT FOR CHOICE
Y
ou’d be hard-pressed to find time to take part in all the activities on board Valiant Lady. There is an outdoor boxing ring, an elevated, dedicated running and walking track, an indoor and outdoor gym and a yoga and Pilates studio. Hung over the back of the ship is a giant trampoline net for sunbathing. You can party all night in The Manor and The Red Room then recover in the huge spa and thermal suite complete with plunge pools, a mud room, an aromatherapy room, a steam room and a sauna. The Social Club has retro board games as well as shuffleboard and air hockey; fun activities like mixing Instagramready cocktails; quizzes; and even an 80s workout on the main pool deck. Virgin Voyages’s over-18s policy allows the line to be racier with its entertainment and nightlife, which really hits the mark. Halfway through the cruise, for example, the ship laid on Scarlet Night, for which we were encouraged to wear red. All the venues feature live music, and there are pop-up shows across the ship. At 9pm we were invited to a pool party on the top deck, where the crew danced beside the water. There was a giant octopus with spotlights for eyes at one end, with a DJ on the decks at the other. At first, we were mere observers, marvelling at the entertainment team’s slick moves, but it didn’t take long before we joined in, and it was then that I realised why the pool is so shallow. Most cruise lines would cordon off the pool for parties such as this, in case of drunken revellers, whereas Virgin keeps the pool open for them. Shoes and socks off, trousers and skirts hitched up – and, in some cases, tops off – we were soon all dancing in the pool. There’s an eclectic mix of people on this cruise, mainly from the UK, America and Australia. The average age is about 40 to 45, which is Virgin Voyages’s sweet spot: Gen Xers and older Gen Ys who have grown-up kids and can afford the fares (which are higher than you might expect, but include dining onboard, tips and WiFi). CT
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Favourite shore excursion: The excursions, or Shore Things, as they’re called, aren’t ground-breaking, although Virgin Voyages says that it is working on this. There were plenty of options on my cruise from Barcelona to Toulon, Marina di Carrara, Corsica, Sardinia and Ibiza – kayaking, cycling, city tours, snorkelling, food and wine tours – but few have a Virgin twist and they are similar to what you’d expect from other cruise lines. What is the crowd like? It’s one of the most diverse crowds I have seen on a cruise ship: almost as many same-sex couples as straight, several different nationalities and ages varying from the early 20s to early 70s (in the case of Richard Branson, who was on board). The average age ranges from 45 to 55, and note: there’s an adultsonly (over-18s) age policy.
Full steam ahead
Clockwise from above: In the sauna at the Redemption Spa; finger food in the Galley; at Squid Ink tattoo parlour; on the balcony of a Cheeky Corner Suite; enjoying bubbles in the shallow pool.
What should I wear? Anything you like — there is no dress code.
Are there any additional costs? Tips are included, as is WiFi. You can make discretionary tips if you wish, but it is not expected.
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Rivers 78 Christmas cruises | 84 Barging in France | 92 Cruising like royalty
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The longer voyage
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Rivers
L River cruise lines are reporting a huge uptake in cruisers booking longer river journeys or back-to-back voyages, with Australians taking up the majority of these cabins, writes Bernadette Chua.
THE
uxury river cruise lines such as Avalon Waterways, Uniworld Boutique River Cruises and AmaWaterways have begun offering voyages of up to 54 nights. Luxury line Uniworld has a 25-day itinerary from Amsterdam to Bucharest which joins up three of its most popular European itineraries. A spokesperson from the line said that Australians are making up around 70 per cent of the bookings. “We are finding that Australian and Kiwi guests intend to travel for much longer than ever before – if they are going to go long-distance, they want to make it count,” said the spokesperson. And in May 2023, there is a spectacular 46-night cruise that visits nine countries on five Uniworld ships. “Our longest special itinerary is our version of a world cruise: Rivers of the World. In 2023, this is 46 nights from Cairo to Lisbon and combines five river cruises with all the connections and transfers included, departing May 2023,” said the Uniworld spokesperson. “It has been hugely popular and has only one suite remaining for sale (due to a cancellation out of the US). Aussies have taken around 80 per cent of the cabins.”
LONGER VOYAGE
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Starting the journey in Cairo, 11 days are spent on the Nile on the SS Sphinx. Following the Egyptian jaunt, the itinerary then takes guests to the Venice lagoon and Po River on the SS La Venezia, which visits Italy and Switzerland. The next leg of the cruise takes place on the SS Maria Theresa. Over the seven days, cruisers will visit Hungary, Austria and Germany. The fourth section sails on the Seine on the SS Joie De Vivre, while the final leg sails on the Douro River on the SS São Gabriel. Demand has been so high that Uniworld is about to release a 2024 version of this epic voyage, encompassing 54 nights and four cruises from Lima to Saigon. Avalon Waterways has a stunning 26-day river itinerary from the Black Sea to the North Sea: the line is saying that it is seeing strong bookings for its longer itineraries. “Typically, we see our returning river cruisers book our longer cruises. [They] love the unpack-once aspect of river cruising and are after more immersive, deeper experiences. When they visit Europe, they want time to really explore the destinations, get to know the locals and experience the culture,” said an Avalon Waterways spokesperson.
“Longer itineraries have proven popular with both the Australian and New Zealand markets, allowing these guests to see as much as possible after the long journey to get to Europe. We’re seeing demand across the board for our river cruises, but we are seeing a slight trend towards longer itineraries as customers want to experience as much as they can after two years of closed borders – they’re ready to get out there and explore.” AmaWaterways also revealed a 46-night voyage that passes through 14 countries on four of the line’s ships. Broken into four sections on Europe’s seven major rivers, the voyage visits ports in France, Germany, Austria, Germany, Bulgaria, Romania and more. “At AmaWaterways, we continually anticipate the needs of our guests and always strive to provide innovative experiences that push industry standards. With the pent-up demand for travel we are seeing and the increase in requests for our longer cruises, we feel this is the perfect time to introduce our incredible, all-new Seven River Journey,” AmaWaterways president Rudi Schreiner told Cruiseradio.net. He added that he’s confident that the cruise will exceed the expectations of the 144 guests onboard. CT
Settle in for an epic journey
Opposite: Dining al fresco on a Uniworld river cruise through Europe. Below: The SS Maria Theresa cruises through Budapest on one leg of Uniworld’s grand Rivers of the World itinerary.
“Longer itineraries allow guests to see as much as possible after the long journey to get to Europe.”
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Avalon Waterways has redefined cruising by going
EARN 8,894 QANTAS POINTS PER PERSON
against the current and away from the ordinary. Delivering unparalleled experiences and boundless exploration, Avalon puts you in the captain’s seat to
7
DEGGENDORF
GERMANY
SLOVAKIA
DÜRNSTEIN
PASSAU LINZ
Wachau Valley VIENNA YBBS MELK
BRATISLAVA Danube River
navigate your journey, fuel your passions and steer clear of the unexpected as you cruise down the world’s most memorable and mesmerising waterways.
WELCOME TO A NEW WAVE IN CRUISING. WELCOME ABOARD AVALON WATERWAYS.
BUDAPEST
AUSTRIA
HUNGARY
DANUBE DREAMS 8 days Deggendorf to Budapest From $4,898* per person, twin share (departing 11/04/23, cat E)
For more information visit avalonwaterways.com.au, call 1300 230 234 or see your travel agent *Qantas Frequent Flyer members can earn 2 Qantas Points on eligible bookings with Avalon Waterways. Eligible bookings include Avalon Waterways packages purchased using Australian Dollars, sold either through Avalon Waterways directly or via one of their booking agents. Members will not earn points if a booking is cancelled prior to departure. To earn Qantas Points, a member must add their Qantas Frequent Flyer number to their booking prior to departure. If a member adds multiple Qantas Frequent Flyer members to the booking, the total amount of points earned will be split equally between passengers under the same Reference number found on your invoice. Points will be credited to the relevant Frequent Flyer account within 60 days of departure. Qantas Points will be awarded to you based on the final amount of the eligible travelled booking. Avalon Waterways Terms and Conditions apply.
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Collaboration
From pioneering floor-to-ceiling windows in guest suites to a captivating range of onboard and onshore activities, Avalon Waterways offers the very best of river cruising.
O
ne step aboard a modern, luxurious Avalon Waterways Suite Ship, each of which has the grandest views in cruising, and you’ll see how the tides are changing.
Possibilities as wide open as the views
Onboard Avalon’s Suite fleet of ships, guests enjoy the perfect blend of elegance and ease, where little touches are bold, gestures are grand and the views even grander. There’s a reason our ships are the critics’ darlings and favourites among our most discerning guests. Our boutiquehotel-inspired Panorama Suites feature the industry’s only Open-Air Balconies, with the widest-opening windows in cruising, and decadent Comfort Collection beds that face the ever-changing scenery. Providing wider openings for the wide-eyed, Avalon Waterways Open-Air Balconies were designed with our guests’ views in mind. A highlight of the Panorama Suites on
A new wave in cruising AVALON WATERWAYS
Views for miles
From top: Sweeping views from one of Avalon’s Panorama Suites; soaking up some rays on the Sky Deck.
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Wine and dine
Clockwise from left: Fine fare in the ship’s Dining Room; Dining Room service; cosy seating at the onboard Panorama Lounge bar.
Avalon’s Suite Ships, these wall-to-wall, floor-toceiling windows open 7 feet (more than 2 metres) wide in Europe and 11 feet (more than 3 metres) wide in Southeast Asia … wider than any other balconies in the industry. Avalon’s innovative Open-Air Balconies blur the line between outside and in, while forming a comfortable and spacious seating area for six and creating an open invitation to discover and dream. Even better? Open-Air Balconies do not sacrifice room space. In contrast, they invite our guests to enjoy 100 per cent of their Panorama Suite, 100 per cent of the time. Here, guests can enjoy morning coffee with one castle or two.
Curate your curiosities
As cruisers set sail down the world’s most legendary waters, we’ve curated a collection of the most intriguing experiences for total immersion, both on board and off. With the wind in their hair, whim in their hearts and as many as 28 included excursions on our cruising itineraries to select from, the compass is in the palm of cruisers’ hands to choose any direction they desire. Avalon Choice presents Avalon guests with a variety of Active, Discovery and Classic excursions and onboard activities each day to go their own way. Whether travellers want to walk in the footsteps of legends, bike down the street like a local or hike through postcard-perfect settings, Avalon’s selection of included daily outings 76
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and optional excursions invite guests to further personalise their experience to suit their interests and passions. And for those cruisers looking for a break from the ordinary, but not from their extraordinary interests, Avalon Waterways offers a robust line-up of special-interest cruises. From beer to wine to history, music and Christmas season cruises, Avalon’s special-interest itineraries complement stories with stout, history with harmony and impressions with Impressionism.
North. South. West. Feast
A true host caters to two parties on a cruise – our guests and their taste buds. While we naturally present the signature delicacies of the regions we visit, we enrich the gastronomic journey by offering multiple dining venues, bringing unexpected culinary experiences to the table. With hands-on cooking classes and grotto wine tastings on the menu, a different kind of adventure is served. Avalon delivers a culinary experience as delectable as our sweet sails down the river. From craft cocktails and regional wines to inspired menus and artisanal dishes, we fuel every gastronomical journey with a beautiful balance of local flavour and worldly flair. • Farm-to-fork flavour. Fresh. Organic. Local. While guests take in the lush countryside panoramas, our innovative chefs bring the passing view to their plates. • Grape-to-glass glory. The river may move us, but it’s the locally crafted Burgundies, Viogniers and Rieslings that flow with every meal. Cruise &Travel
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Activities for every taste and pace
Clockwise from right: On Avalon’s Active & Discovery river cruises you can explore a castle, visit a vineyard or learn to cook local signature dishes – the choice is yours.
For health-conscious travellers, we’ve turned the table on traditional cruise dining. From delivering delicious, hearthealthy artisanal dishes inspired by brotherly love (Viennese chefs Karl and Leo Wrenkh) through Avalon Fresh to offering energising juices at breakfast, artfully crafted salads at lunch and high-protein plates at dinner, guests can guiltlessly partake in creative cuisine without sacrificing flavour. And our menu of dining venues is as diverse as the cruising cuisines we serve. Whether guests are in the mood for the elegance of the glass-walled Panorama Dining Room, the cosiness of the Panorama Bistro, the breeziness of the Sky Grill or the simple allure of our Panorama Suite, we have the perfect table.
Whim-powered cruising
Everyone travels to see new things, but many travel to do new things as well. With our Active & Discovery river cruises, Avalon offers activities for travellers with varying interests and for all energy and fitness levels. From action-packed experiences and interactive discoveries to traditional sightseeing, you can tailor a holiday to suit your interests and pace. These include: • Classic Get up close and personal with the iconic places you’ve dreamed of seeing. With expert Local Guides, you’ll get preferred access to the famous sites, insider information on local legends and lore, and the true heritage behind the history. • Discovery Pull up a chair to hear a Vienna waltz, roll up your sleeves to paint like Van Gogh, or grab an apron to whip up a local recipe. Discover the world’s simple pleasures and grand artistry, from farmhouses to famous galleries.
• Active Greet the day with a bike ride, a hike to a hilltop castle, or a kayak excursion. If you’re up for an active adventure, the adventure is up to you. Not only have we redefined the cruising experience, but we’ve also redefined all-inclusive. That’s the beauty of our Suite Ships and the other vehicles joyfully provided to guests to enhance their extraordinary journeys. Take a complimentary bike for a spin, check out a variety of outdoor gear from our onboard Adventure Host and tap into our free AvalonGO app – loaded with tailored and tested travel tips – for freeing experiences in port.
The pursuit of the perfect voyage
We have our 3:1 guest-to-crew ratio down to a science. But knowing the right amount of anticipation, the right amount of attention and the right amount of space to give each guest is an art. Our crew is devoted without being daunting, focused but not fussy, and supportive minus the smother. Our guests cherish the warmth of our crew members. And the feeling is mutual. Welcome to a new wave in cruising. Welcome aboard Avalon Waterways. CT
“From action-packed experiences to traditional sightseeing, tailor a holiday to suit your interests.”
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hat is it about Christmas that makes people either want snow (I’m looking at you, Bing) or love and romance (hello, Mariah Carey)? Personally, I just want a river cruise. That wasn’t asking too much until you-know-what struck in 2020 and my run of cruises over nine Christmases ended. Reader, the hubbie and I were so bereft we bought bratwurst sausages and glühwein (spiced mulled wine), fired up the barbecue, layered on the jumpers and woolly hats (December in the UK is cold!) and spent Christmas Day in the garden creating our own German market. It was better than nothing but a little lonely, so to paraphrase Mariah, all we want for Christmas this year is a river cruise. It’s a brilliant way to take the stresses and strains out of the big day. Instead of worrying about cooking for legions of relatives, Light up impressing the mother-in-law, getting the house spick-and-span, the holidays buying a turkey and decorating a tree, just book a Christmas cruise, Experiencing the arrange flights, hop onboard and let the crew take care of the rest. magic of Vienna Not just the cooking, cleaning, making of beds and pouring of at Christmas drinks they always do, but dressing trees, hanging decorations and with Uniworld. adding turkey and stuffing to the usual line-up of tasty meals. If you are lucky, they will even sing a few carols the night before Christmas to get everyone in the mood, while the captain will send a note to Lapland so Santa knows where to park his sleigh when he visits (chimneys not being among the many attributes of river ships). Is that all sounding a bit too, well, festive? Fear not. For the Bah Humbugs among us (and yes, that is me also), getting away on the rivers over Christmas is even more of a treat. 78
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For one thing, tours operate as normal on the big day, so instead of watching The Sound of Music again on the TV at home, you can be out and about in the town or city where you are moored, either exploring alone or with a guide. We tend to mix it up, getting our bearings with a guide and then casting off alone. Shops and museums are shut, of course, but even in the tiniest of villages we’ve managed to find a cosy bar doing a roaring trade in coffee, glühwein and apple strudel. And then there is the intimacy of the whole thing. River ships are smaller than oceangoing Cruise &Travel
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HAVE A TRULY FESTIVE HOLIDAY WHEN YOU SPEND CHRISTMAS TOURING PRETTY TOWNS AND BROWSING MARKETS ALONG THE RHINE RIVER, SAYS JANE ARCHER.
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It’s beginning to look a lot like
CHRISTMAS
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vessels, and with just 150 or so other passengers onboard, it’s easy to make friends. Whether you’re on your own, the family have flown the nest or you want to escape the relatives, it’s a great way to spend the festive season. We’ve also met three generations of families enjoying a Christmas cruise together because it was the only time the younger ones could be sure of getting enough days off work, and come across plenty of families with young children discovering the joys of cruising over Christmas.
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f you’ve never been to one of Europe’s Christmas markets, you’re in for a treat. They are big, colourful affairs packed with huts and stalls – more than 100 at the best ones – that are decorated with fairy lights and sell gifts to the sound of carols (sometimes even with live singers). There are no iPhones or tablets on sale, it’s true, but instead you can stock up on festive arts and crafts, such as wood-carved nativity scenes, hand-made Christmas decorations, scented candles and home-made gingerbread. There are also plenty of stalls selling hot potatoes,
CHRISTMAS MARKETS
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roasted chestnuts, beer and glühwein to help keep the spirits up. The Rhine and Danube are favourites for festive river cruises as they pass through Germany and Austria, where Christmas markets spring up in even the smallest villages as well as filling square after square in the big cities. One of the best cities for markets on the rivers in Germany is Nuremberg, a town on the Rhine-Main-Danube Canal that, as the name suggests, links the Danube and Main River, which then flows into the Rhine. Frankfurt, on the Main River, is one of my favourites, and Cologne, a lovely city on the Rhine, is brilliant. It has more than five markets, including one by the landmark cathedral, a magnificent building that dominates the skyline, and another in nearby Haymarket Square that even has its own ice rink. On the Danube, top marks go to Vienna, which has a massive Christmas market in front
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of the neo-Gothic style Rathaus (town hall) and another at Schönbrunn Palace, the favourite summer residence of the Habsburg empress Maria Theresa, who ruled back in the days when Austria was an empire. If you get the chance, do also go to Salzburg, a pretty city with a large Christmas market in the shadow of the Hohensalzburg fortress and tours of the house where Mozart was born. It’s a little way from the Danube, but a lot of companies offer it as an excursion. In the past, most markets closed on December 23, but these days many in cities such as Cologne, Vienna and Budapest stay open until the New Year because they are so popular. If seeing the markets is the main driver for cruising over Christmas, check out opening times in the places you’ll be visiting so you don’t miss out. Bear in mind also that the markets are at their best after dark (that’s from about 4pm in Europe in December) when the lights come on and the locals come out, so look for an itinerary that stays in port late in one or two places so you get the full-on markets experience.
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ut there is more to these cruises than Christmas markets, not least the great memories you’ll clock up. Like the time we were on a Viking cruise along the Rhine and hiked up to the castle in the Austrian village of Dürnstein where Richard the Lionheart was held captive in 1192. It was daylight going up, but we found ourselves scrambling back down a rocky path in the pitch black with just an iPhone light to guide us, which was rather more of an adventure than we had planned. Or the Christmas Eve on a Rhine cruise with Amadeus that we tested our German to the limit by attending Mass in Speyer’s grand cathedral (we had no idea what was happening, but it felt very worthy!). We’ve sipped champagne with a princess in her castle on a Christmas cruise with Uniworld, and seen the New Year in with a bang in
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Turning Viennese
Opposite: Delightful Christmas markets in Vienna. This page, from top: Toasting the season in Vienna while on a Uniworld cruise; festive decorations on Uniworld’s SS Antoinette and SS Maria Theresa.
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“We stayed in Dresden on Christmas Day and joined other passengers for a Bach concert in the sublime Frauenkirche.” Amsterdam – literally, as fireworks were exploding all around us as we explored the canals around the city – on an AmaWaterways cruise that stretched across the festive season. Almost all river cruise lines, Avalon Waterways and APT among them, have Christmas markets sailings in the lead-up to the big day. On Avalon’s Christmastime on the Danube sailing departing December 14 this year, you’ll have lots of time to visit the markets during overnight stays in Nuremberg and Vienna (priced from AUD$3,114 per person for six nights, excluding flights). Choose APT and you’ll be on the Rhine, visiting markets in Cologne, Strasbourg and Cochem, a tiny village on the Moselle River packed with picturesque half-timbered houses. The cruise departs December 8 and 15, 2023 and is priced from AUD$1,995 per person for eight days, excluding flights. Conversely, only a handful of cruise lines sail over Christmas. Most stick to the popular Rhine and Danube, but a few have branched out to other rivers.
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e had a fascinating Christmas river cruise on a paddlewheel boat on the Elbe with CroisiEurope that started with a day in Berlin and a trip to the palace where the Potsdam Conference was held at the end of World War II, and arrived in Dresden for the evening of December 24. We stayed there overnight and all Christmas Day, when we tucked into bratwurst and glühwein by the river. That evening we joined other passengers for a Bach concert in the sublime Frauenkirche, a cathedral in the main square that was returned to its former glory after being destroyed during World War II. The cruise departs again this year on December 20, and is priced from AUD$2,360 per person excluding flights. New this year, AmaWaterways has a seven-night cruise over Christmas in France that starts in Lyon, ends in Avignon, and promises everything from festive markets and medieval castles to wine and chocolate. The cruise departs on December 22, 2022 and spends Christmas Day in Vienne, where a temple dedicated to the Roman emperor Augustus and his wife Livia still stands all these thousands of years later. The good news is that there is still time to book a festive river cruise for this year, but capacity is filling fast (Viking is sold out and already taking bookings for 2023) so with only a few months until the big day, it’s time to get your Christmas skates on. CT 82
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CHRISTMAS MARKETS
Yuletide vibes
Above: Browsing a Christmas market in Vienna with Uniworld. Right: A Christmas market lights up a square in Prague.
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Best lines for Christmas cruises
AMADEUS Expect castles galore as Amadeus River Cruises sails the Rhine round-trip from Cologne. You’ll cruise through the Rhine Gorge, spend Christmas Day in Strasbourg and still have time to enjoy Cologne’s colourful markets. Departs December 22. From AUD$2,012 per person for six nights, including WiFi and wine and beer with lunch and dinner. Flights extra. amadeus-rivercruises.com.au AMAWATERWAYS Fancy spending Christmas Day at an exclusive Oktoberfest? You can on AmaWaterways’s seven-night cruise from Budapest to Vilshofen, which also includes tours of Salzburg or the picturesque Czech town of Cesky Krumlov. Departs December 19, 2022. From AUD$5,365 per person including tours, WiFi and wine or beer with lunch and dinner. Flights extra. amawaterways.co.uk SCENIC Can’t decide between the Rhine or Danube? Scenic’s 15-day Christmas & New Year cruise sails both on a journey from Amsterdam to Budapest. You’ll have Christmas markets in Cologne, make gingerbread in Nuremberg and welcome in 2023 in Vienna. Departs December 21, 2022. From AUD$7,695 per person including transfers, tours, drinks, WiFi and tips. Flights extra. scenic.com.au UNIWORLD Spend Christmas Day in Regensburg, get a Sound of Music fix in Salzburg and welcome in 2023 in Vienna on Uniworld River Cruises’s 13-night Grand Christmas and New Year sailing. The voyage, from Nuremberg to Budapest, departs December 22, 2022. From AUD$11,599 per person including drinks, tips, excursions and WiFi. Flights extra. uniworld.com VIKING Viking promises pre-Christmas revelries in Budapest, Bratislava and Vienna and a leisurely Christmas Day sailing through the picturesque Wachau Valley on this cruise from Budapest to Passau departing December 20, 2023. From AUD$3,995 per person, including one tour per port, beer or wine with lunch and dinner, tips and WiFi. Flights extra. vikingrivercruises.com.au
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The canal less travelled
Skip the most popular French canal and take it slow in beautiful Burgundy instead, stopping in at chateaux and riverside medieval towns along your way, says Robin McKelvie.
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s the morning mists eased off the water, a beaverlike nutria broke the surface. A heron splashed down behind and a breeze meandered through a natural amphitheatre of giant oaks. We were moored by an old church in the sort of Burgundian village I’d feared only existed on TV property shows, but the aroma of freshly baked baguettes – the captain had just cycled back with them for breakfast – was gloriously real. I was viewing this quintessentially Burgundian scene from L’Impressionniste’s hot tub, with a day of world-class wines and a brace of châteaux ahead. Welcome to the Burgundy Canal, the savvy cruiser’s French waterway of choice. “Burgundy not only has the most beautiful canal in France, but it’s the most beautiful region, too,” beamed Diana, one of our ever-smiling hosts on the sleek, purpose-built 12-guest luxury hotel barge. It was hard to disagree, as behind my native Burgundian host stretched a patchwork of neat small-scale farms, leading off to thick emerald-green forests where wild boar roam. Beckoning in the background were rolling hills dotted with châteaux-topped villages that give Tuscany a run for its picture-postcard money. Scything right through this bucolic idyll is the Burgundy Canal, an engineering marvel that sweeps for 240 kilometres, connecting the River Yonne at Migennes with the River Saone at Saint-Jean-de-Losne. It was almost a sibling of the popular Canal du Midi, as the man behind Languedoc’s finest drew up plans for Burgundy; he was ditched in favour of military engineer Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban. The strife of the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars hampered construction, but this stoic 189-lock waterway was not to be denied, and it opened in 1832. The Canal du Midi may be more renowned, but it also crams in the canal barges. In southern Burgundy, we were Medieval marvel the only vessel easing away from the Left: Cruising Pouilly Tunnel, which marks the highest past Châteauneufsummit of any French canal at 377 en-Auxois in metres. We were bound for Dijon, less Burgundy. than 48 kilometres away, over the Above: welcome course of six nights: Burgundy is not a champagne place to hurry. onboard.
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“The Château de Commarin was a sheer delight. We were guided around its inner sanctum by Count Bertrand de Vogüé himself.”
BARGING IN FRANCE
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Book it
Burgundy is, however, a place to visit chocolate-box pretty châteaux, oases you can really delve into: mercifully I found, at two châteaux on our second and third days, they This elegant sevendon’t hide history behind Perspex in Burgundy. day journey starts at The Château de Commarin was a sheer delight. We were AU$7,950 per person, guided around its inner sanctum by Count Bertrand de based on double Vogüé himself, whose family have held sway here for 26 occupancy; prices may generations, since the 13th century, skilfully managing to vary depending on keep the mighty Dukes of Burgundy onside. Heritage oozed the season. Why not top or tail the voyage from every stone pore and the proper water-filled moat, with with a bespoke a falconry display adding to the drama. Not to be outdone, extension, a pre-tour or the Châteauneuf-en-Auxois presided over an eponymous a Mediterranean ocean village on a lofty bluff with cruise? A&K is an sweeping views of Burgundy expert in European normally reserved for paragliders. tailor-made travel. Go Day four brought the majesty to Abercrombiekent. com.au for details. of the UNESCO World Heritagelisted Hospices de Beaune, a pioneering hospital for the poor that dates back to 1443. Brilliantly preserved, with the beds still made, it looked like the last patients were discharged only yesterday, not in 1971. The hardwood interior courtyard – with its half-timbered terraces – was a marvel, as was the intricately patterned glazed-tile roof. There may be a museum here, but this unique edifice is no mere museum piece, still holding an annual wine auction that was originally set up to raise funds. It’s now a renowned international barometer of wine quality and pricing. Indeed, the medieval town of Beaune is the heart of the region’s UNESCO-listed viniculture. We explored the vineyards and enjoyed exclusive access and a tasting at Domaine Chanson, whose winemakers have been working their magic here since Cruise &Travel
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Living large on a barge
Opposite, from top: Chateaux abound in Burgundy; the saloon on the L’Impressionniste. This page from top: The dining room onboard; L’Impressionniste making her way through Burgundy.
1750. A Montagny Premier Cru and a Beaune-Bastion Premier Cru kicked things off, before the star of the show, a delightful Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Chenevottes. It’s a continuation of the superb wine liberally served aboard. European Waterways has its own wine cave, where it stores the vintages it snares direct from vineyards it has worked with for years. And it shows in the glass. That attention to detail ripples through L’Impressionniste in a wash of refined luxury. Think hardwoods, teak floors, well-curated art and calm colours. Dining is communal, at a large oak table, and superb, with Michelin-trained Latvian chef Arnis conjuring up local delights such as beef bourguignon, the French classic filet mignon, and spiky, colourful salads including goat’s cheese spiced with caramelised onions. Dishes take on the fresh flavours of the herbs Arnis grows on deck. Portuguese host Miguel, meanwhile, is a cocktail master at the bar; outside lashings of seating space tempts, along with that six-person hot tub. Cruise&Travel
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You could linger onboard all day, but none of us did, as Burgundy offers so much. On our last full day, on the minibus that had been on hand all week, we eased into Dijon, one of the best-preserved historic cores in France, all winding, cobbled lanes, half-timbered houses and, yes, mustard shops. Dijon is famous for its gastronomy, so I skipped half the guided tour and lost a couple of hours at the covered market with a cheeky glass of SaintVéran before 10am. I was not alone, chatting with stall holders and fellow Saint-Véran devotees breakfasting on oysters and snails, before drifting around stalls heaving with cheese and charcuterie. Too much decadence, of course, risks turning livers to foie gras and here, again, the Burgundy Canal trumps the Canal du Midi. In Languedoc, gnarly tree roots hamper towpath cycling; not in Burgundy. I burnt off a few calories on one of the guest bikes ahead of L’Impressionniste and stood with the lock keepers watching her glide up to take on the locks as I enjoyed a grandstand view. Towpath walking was a delight, too, along the wildflower-kissed banks. I was never alone strolling under sun-dappled leaves, with splashing otters, startled red deer and red kites soaring above. My last night mirrored my first morning. Retiring with a glass of burgundy, this time Meursault, in the hot tub, I savoured the night skies and searched for shooting stars. I toasted to fine wines, world-class cuisine, fairytale châteaux, mustard-kissed cities and – my new favourite animal – the nutria. Plus, of course, Vauban, the man who conjured up this glorious waterway. I’ve forgotten all about the Canal du where? CT 87
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The secrets of EUROPE’S WATERWAYS SCENIC
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Enjoy exclusive Scenic Enrich experiences which give travellers a rare insight into the magic of Europe’s destinations, writes Rose Jacobs.
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he magnificent rivers of Europe do speak for themselves. But it makes a world of difference when you experience them with the right river cruise. For me, there’s never been a more luxurious all-inclusive option than a Scenic river cruise. It’s more than the five-star Space-Ships experience, or the incredible attention to detail: it’s the memories made during the exclusive shore excursions. Here’s a few of my most memorable personal experiences during my river cruises around Europe with Scenic.
An evening inside a palace
This was an evening I will never forget. Guests are invited to dress formally and are transferred in style to Vienna’s exquisite Palais Liechtenstein (also known as Liechtenstein City Palace), something fairytales are made of … at least for an Aussie girl from country New South Wales they certainly are! Palais Liechtenstein is a majestic and beautiful 17th-century palace in the heart
Cultural immersion
Main image: The Space-Ship Scenic Jasper sails through Budapest. Above: Taking in the views of Budapest from a Scenic Space-Ship rooftop Sun Deck. Left: Scenic guests enjoy an exclusive Scenic Enrich experience at Vienna’s Palais Liechtenstein.
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of Austria’s capital. Sprawling manicured lawns fit for a king surround the palace, which houses the private museum of the Liechtenstein family who once resided there. They were one of the most influential and wealthy families of Vienna in their time. Today, the palace is only accessible on private tours and exclusive events, like this unforgettable event Scenic organised for the guests on my cruise. Surrounded by signature works by famous architects such as Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach, Domenico Egidio Rossi and Domenico Martinelli, who all influenced the pinnacle of Viennese-Baroque architecture, your senses will be transported to a time of opulence and grandeur. An exclusive private Viennese concert featuring the captivating music of Strauss and Mozart will serenade you in this spectacular space, allowing you to dream of the time nobles would have sat in the same room and been dazzled by the same sights and sounds.
The hills are alive …
Another delight to the senses I’ll never forget from my journeys through Europe’s waterways was the ‘Best of The Sound of Music and Salzburg Show’. I certainly wasn’t an expert on the film before this amazing Scenic Enrich experience, but I most definitely am now! In fact, I now feel as though I was in the film itself after we were ushered to stunning rolling green hills near Salzburg city and mesmerised by the performances during this exclusive Scenic viewing of the show. From the stage sets and costumes to the musical brilliance and talented cast, the familiar classics and even the delicious Austrian lunch, it’s fair to say that both the hills and my senses were truly alive after this moment in time. Both of these Scenic Enrich experiences can be enjoyed as inclusions in the 21-day cruise and tour Jewels of Europe with Prague and Paris. You will discover multiple cities of Europe from the dazzling city lights 89
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Itineraries
2023 Jewels of Europe with Paris & Prague Embark on three-night extensions in both Prague and Paris, two of Europe’s greatest cities. These extensions bookend a cruise past castles and fairytale palaces from Budapest to Amsterdam over 15 days. Price: From $11,695 per person, twin share* 2023 Jewels of Europe with Ljubljana & Zagreb This 19-day journey sails from Amsterdam to vibrant Budapest by river, with a four-night extension through Slovenia and Croatia. The journey also takes in Cologne, Miltenberg, Bamberg, Nuremberg, Salzberg, Dürnstein, Ljubljana and Zagreb. Prices: From $10,775 per person, twin share* scenic.com.au *Terms and conditions apply, visit scenic.com. au/terms.
of Paris to Prague, the ‘Paris of the East’, and up to five countries in between. And of course, you will be treated like royalty every step of the way with service to the nth degree. Every tiny detail is pre-empted, and with a butler at your service, you will be pampered beyond your wildest expectations. With an excellent staff-to-guest ratio and a truly all-inclusive journey – from the onboard dining and beverages to excursions, transfers and even tipping (yes, tipping in Europe can set you back more than you might think) – you will be able to relax and enjoy every moment. And here’s the fun part. After the 15-day Jewels of Europe experience, you can delve deeper into the continent’s rich history and culture with Scenic’s four-day extension by land. Prepare to have your breath taken away by the snow-capped mountains and picturesque glacial waters of Slovenia’s Lake Bled, plus the striking emerald green lakes and humbling waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia. From crystal-clear lakes to romantic towns and the cobblestone streets of historic cities: you can also explore Zagreb, the capital of Croatia, during this itinerary, making it the ultimate extension to your river cruise with no stone left unturned. Whether onboard your Scenic Space-Ship being pampered by your butler, or onshore taking in the sights and sounds of allinclusive Scenic Freechoice and Enrich experiences, you are certain to feel like royalty every moment of your Scenic Jewels of Europe river cruise. CT
Setting the scene
From top: Charles Bridge over the Vltava river in Prague; the glacial waters of Slovenia’s Lake Bled; the Crystal Dining restaurant on a Scenic Space-Ship; the Royal Owner’s Suite on the Scenic Diamond.
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SNPR
2023 EUROPE RIVER CRUISING
E-Bikes, Vienna
Scenic Enrich, Palais Liechtenstein
Jewels of Europe
With Scenic, it’s more than a 5-star river cruise It’s a seamless journey from start to finish that places you, our guest, at the heart of everything we do. It’s taking you to extraordinary regions in Europe and immersing you in meaningful and enriching experiences. It’s exquisite cuisine, indulgent wellness, and a world-class team who will anticipate your every need. Now is the time to book your Europe river cruise for 2023 for the best availability, prices and offers.
Scenic’s truly all-inclusive luxury is in a class of its own 5-star Scenic Space-Ship with only up to 163 guests Balcony Suites with innovative Scenic Sun Lounge Butler service with full mini-bar restocked daily All meals and premium beverages all day, every day^ Two exclusive Scenic Enrich experiences 41 Scenic Freechoice activities to personalise your days Salt Therapy Lounge plus fitness and wellness area E-bikes and Scenic Tailormade App Cruise Director and expert local guides Return airport transfers All tipping and gratuities on board and onshore
15 Day River Cruise Amsterdam > Budapest
Balcony Suite from $9,595*pp Cruise the magnificent Rhine, Main and Danube rivers, passing grand palaces, romantic towns and fairytale-like castles along this ancient trade route. 2023 EARLYBIRD OFFERS
Fly Business Class from $3,995pp* OR Economy Class Flights Included* up to the value of $2,000pp
2023 SUPER EARLYBIRD OFFER
PLUS, save an extra $1,000pp* on your suite Sapphire & Diamond Decks
Schermerhorn & Alkmaar
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Rhine
Germany
Cologne Main-Danube Canal
Rüdesheim Miltenberg
Bamberg Würzburg
Rothenburg
Scan to view itinerary and offers
Nuremberg Danube Slovakia Dürnstein Vienna Bratislava Melk Burg 14 Salzburg Aggstein
Regensburg
STC
Austria
Budapest Hungary
Now is the time to book and secure this limited Super Earlybird offer Call 138 128 or your local Scenic Travel Advisor | Brochures: scenic.com.au/europe *Conditions apply. Prices and offers are based on per person, twin share in AUD, strictly limited, not combinable with other offers, and subject to availability. All offers are for new 2023 bookings only until 30 September 2022, unless sold out prior, and not available for bookings using a Future Travel Credit (FTC) Voucher. Visit scenic.com.au for 2022 offers and pricing. Airfare offers are subject to availability ex SYD/MEL/BNE/ADL/PER and based on an airline of Scenic’s choosing. If that airline and/or class is not available a surcharge may apply. Offer is available when booking selected Sapphire and Diamond Deck suites on selected departures only. Airline/airport taxes of up to $265pp are included but may vary depending on gateway cities travelled. Any additional taxes are at guest’s expense. Airfares must be booked through Scenic. All airfare deals are scheduled for travel to best suit the tour departure and conclusion dates on available scheduled flights. Any requests outside of the tour dates may incur seasonal surcharges as enforced by the airline. We reserve the right to ticket any flights upon receipt of deposit and any subsequent changes will incur change and/or cancellation fees. A deposit of $1,000pp plus airfare is due within 7 days of booking. For Super Earlybird offer to apply, full payment is due 12 months prior to travel. From prices and offers are based on STC071123.1 in a Cat C Balcony Suite. ^All drinks on board are included except for a very small number of rare, fine and vintage wines, Champagnes and spirits. Prices correct as of 27 July 22. For full terms and conditions visit scenic.com.au/terms. ABN 85 002 715 602.
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Collaboration
Pinch-me moments
Enjoying an exclusive concert at Vienna’s Liechtenstein City Palace.
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APT
A RIGHT ROYAL RIVER CRUISE Cruising from Budapest to Amsterdam along the Danube, Main and Rhine rivers on APT’s AmaReina, guests are regally pampered and afforded insider access to magnificent castles and cultural treasures. Chloe Davison, like her fellow passengers, is treated like royalty.
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Lap of luxury
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This page, from top: A journey on a majestic steam train is just one delight of APT’s Magnificent Europe cruise; balcony service on an AmaReina Royal Suite. Below: Approaching the Danube River town of Dürnstein in Austria. Opposite: Sampling fine vintages in AmaReina’s Wine Room.
rowing up in the United Kingdom, I was surrounded by royal history throughout my early life, from watching the Queen’s speech on Christmas Day to parroting the rhymes in school that helped us memorise the succession of monarchs through the ages. The rich traditions of European sovereigns always held much fascination but, thanks to the pandemic, plans to explore the continent’s palatial architecture and saunter through its museums were temporarily placed on hold. With the much-awaited return of travel came a renewed sense of urgency to make that special trip through the heartland of central Europe. A river cruise had been recommended to me as one of the most relaxing ways to take in multiple countries and cities, with the pleasure of unpacking only once, and waking in a new destination each morning. It would make me feel like I was royalty myself, I was assured. Not having travelled much over the past few years, I wanted to make sure that I was in safe hands with this, my first major trip back to Europe, which would take me from Budapest to Amsterdam. I chose to travel with river cruise specialist APT because of its outstanding reputation. It was founded 95 years ago by an Australian entrepreneur with a passion for travel, so I knew that I would be well looked after. Carrying me on my two-week adventure was one of APT’s luxurious Concerto River Ships, the AmaReina. At a length of 135 metres, the ship has just 81 staterooms, meaning that there were enough fellow passengers aboard to create a convivial atmosphere, but without feeling overwhelmed or crowded. My fellow guests were a fascinating bunch; I met individuals from the UK, Ireland, Australia and New Zealand, each of us as excited as the next to be travelling again. Cruise &Travel
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The Danube, Main and Rhine rivers connect Budapest in Hungary to Amsterdam in the Netherlands and make up one of the most popular stretches of water for river cruising in Europe. It was easy to see why. Stunning scenery slipped by as we checked off the spectacularly varied countries of Slovakia, Austria, the Czech Republic and Germany from the comfort of our luxurious floating hotel. Our cruise director brought boundless energy to the trip and was a fountain of knowledge about every destination we arrived at. Nothing was too much trouble and the director’s insights prepared us perfectly for all that we were about to see. It was like having a personal valet to uncover the essential highlights for us before we reached each stop on this royal adventure. The only planning required from us was which beverage to enjoy as we relaxed along the journey. The regal experiences came thick and fast. Beginning in Budapest, APT swept us aboard the historic Grand Empress steam train to the royal seat of Esztergom, following in the footsteps of Franz Ferdinand himself. After using the King and Queen of Hungary’s old waiting room at the station, we relaxed into the scenic journey as a delicious lunch was served by attentive, white-gloved waiting staff, in a scene that was straight out of a Wes Anderson film. As we pulled into the station, our informative local guide, was waiting to bring Esztergom to life, and regaled us with stories of the coronation of the first Hungarian king, Saint Stephen, and the regal legacy of the 10th to the 13th centuries, as we explored the breathtakingly ornate halls of the Basilica. A real benefit of travelling with APT is its Freedom of Choice excursions. If I had any worries about feeling constrained by an inflexible itinerary pre-departure, that fear dissolved the moment I saw the carefully curated mix of different activities to choose from on the immaculately printed schedule that was delivered to my cabin each day. In Vienna I left my travelling
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“Stunning scenery slipped by as we checked off the spectacularly varied countries of Slovakia, Austria, the Czech Republic and Germany.”
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companions to explore Schönbrunn Palace, deciding instead to burn off the previous night’s welcome dinner indulgences with a cycling tour of the city. Without a stitch of Lycra in sight, my fellow pedallers and I hit the roads and covered plenty of ground with the wind at our backs, learning about Viennese history and taking in all the landmarks along the way, courtesy of our fascinating local guide. That evening I had what was probably my highlight of the entire trip. One of APT’s Signature Experiences – special inclusions that open doors and experiences that are usually unavailable to the general public – saw us ushered into Vienna’s Liechtenstein City Palace. There, with the whole place to ourselves, we were treated to a private
performance by some members of the Mozart Boys’ Choir as we sipped on elegant cocktails. The palace itself is a marvel. Badly damaged in World War II, the Liechtenstein family lovingly restored the building to its former glory, down to the finest detail. In order to recreate the silk that lines the walls, for example, the family had to rebuild the loom that was originally used to weave it. While that might feel like royal decadence, it is a reminder of the value of artisanal legacy. In reviving original techniques such as these, they created a sensational restoration that took us back in time and wowed us all. As the notes of the Mozart Boys’ Choir danced off the ornate ceilings, I couldn’t help but feel like a princess. It was an unforgettable, pinch-me moment.
“As the notes of the Mozart Boys’ Choir danced off the ornate ceilings, I couldn’t help but feel like a princess. It was an unforgettable, pinch-me moment.”
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Palaces, please
Opposite: Vienna’s striking Schönbrunn Palace. This page, clockwise from top left: Shore excursions range from indulgent experiences through to restorative cycling jaunts; Mozart Boys’ Choir performs for APT guests at Vienna’s Liechtenstein City Palace; Fortress Marienberg, on the Main River in Würzburg, Germany.
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While it may not be directly linked to the throne, The Sound of Music is certainly musical royalty. It’s my best friend’s favourite film, and I must have seen it 20 times over the years. I felt 16 (or going on 17?) again as our local guide brought the scenes from our much beloved childhood movie to life while we explored Salzburg, reliving our youth and posing up a storm at each of the sights that featured in Rodgers and Hammerstein’s iconic musical. At Würzburg, our next destination, my companions chose to visit a local family-owned farm and meet its owners, while I continued the royal theme, taking a tour of the 18th-century Würzburg Residence. Designed by Balthasar Neumann and completed in 1744, this Bavarian palace combines French châteaux, Viennese baroque and northern Italian architectural styles. Its frescos, sculptures and woodwork are stunning, and the interiors considered to be a masterwork of Baroque and Rococo architecture and art, inspiring Würzburg rococo, an exuberant German style. Maximalism is, it seems, a monarchic speciality. We still felt like royalty in Andernach as the gates of Namedy Castle were thrown open to our group, and we were served morning tea and invited to explore this stunning property. Dating to the 14th century, this dramatic medieval castle is truly the stuff of fairytales and even comes complete with a moat. Throughout the river cruise, I ate like a queen, too. Every dining experience on board was sensational, the gastronomy reflective of each destination that we sailed through. Every meal was paired with local wines from the region, and our sommelier quickly grew to understand my palate, making personalised recommendations of the vintages he knew I would enjoy best. I joined a small group of my fellow guests for a six-course degustation-style meal, which is offered in AmaReina’s Chef’s Table Restaurant. A highlight was the meal prepared right in front of us by our humorous and engaging chef, who entertained us with great conversation as he sliced and diced. The experience can be enjoyed twice by each guest during the two-week cruise and complemented the ship’s other fine dining and casual restaurants perfectly – dining aboard never felt repetitive. Thanks to this variety, my taste buds were every bit as pampered as I felt, and with all my meals and drinks included, APT’s all-inclusive offering is unquestionably excellent value. Keeping pace with the food, the entertainment onboard was of equal quality. Nights spent
cruising to our next destinations were filled with activities that brought everyone onboard together. From cooking demonstrations and quizzes to dancing and music, the hardworking and seemingly tireless entertainment team would get the ship’s lounge buzzing each evening of our cruise. A particularly special moment that was genuinely enjoyed by everyone was a Bavarian night, which unfolded like our own personal Oktoberfest. Hungarian gypsy violinists and an oompah band – alongside a few steins of the different local beers being served – got everyone to their feet. Seduced by all things Bavarian, I made a mental note to add a dirndl to my Christmas list. As my European adventure drew to a close, I didn’t want to leave the new friends I had made. But, departing with a royal wave, I remembered that APT would be collecting me from the airport and sweeping me home in a private car, ensuring that the monarchic lifestyle I had enjoyed so much would echo for a while longer at least. The luxurious 15-day Magnificent Europe river cruise from Budapest to Amsterdam costs from $5,995 per person, twin share, with flights from Australia included. Call APT on 1800 278 278 or visit www.aptouring.com.au. CT
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Europe River Cruising 2023 Unpack once and let Europe’s quaint towns and buzzing cities come to you, with everything taken care of along the way. Cruise in 2023 with flights included plus save up to $600 per couple*.
Want to travel in 2022? Contact us about last minute specials.
Magnificent Europe 15 DAYS AMSTERDAM TO BUDAPEST (OR REVERSE) • EXCLUSIVE – Enjoy a special visit to Liechtenstein City Palace in Vienna for a cocktail party and private recital featuring classic by Mozart and Strauss. • Follow in the footsteps of the Habsburg empire on an imperial train journey aboard the elegant Grand Empress Steam Train to Esztergom (Apr-Sep departures). • Go beyond the gates to explore Namedy Castle before enjoying an exclusive cocktail party and piano recital in the ballroom of the 14th century residence.
AMSTERDAM
GERMANY
NETHERLANDS
1
14 Concerto River Ship
Andernach Koblenz
Würzburg Bamberg CZECH REPUBLIC Rüdesheim 2 Miltenberg Nuremberg Český Krumlov 3 Rothenburg Dürnstein SLOVAKIA Regensburg Vienna Passau Melk BUDAPEST Linz Bratislava Esztergom Salzburg AUSTRIA
Ask us about flying business class from $3,495* per person.
HUNGARY
Search trip code EUMC15
All-Inclusive. All taken care of. Sightseeing experiences in 14 destinations Personalise your journey with Freedom of Choice inclusions
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LIECHTENSTEIN CITY PALACE, VIENNA
GRAND EMPRESS STEAM TRAIN, ESZTERGOM#
Wide range of beverages Award-winning ships
Onboard Wellness Host and entertainment Transfers and gratuities
CONTACT OUR TRAVEL EXPERTS NOW
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O R S PEAK TO YOU R TRAVEL AG ENT
$6,995*
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pp, twin share
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*Conditions apply. SEE: aptouring.com.au/SpecialDeals for full conditions. Book by 31 October 2022, unless sold out prior. Prices are per person (pp), AUD, twin share and include port charges and Early Payment Discount. Prices correct as at 25 July 2022. Prices based on EUMC15: 08 Nov 23 (Cat. E). OFFERS: Limited suites and offers on set departures are available and subject to availability. Offer includes airfare and taxes up to the value of $2,200 per person. Fly Business Class from $3,495 pp is valid when booking a category T+ cabin and above on select departures, priced from $11,295 per person. DEPOSITS: A non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. A second non-refundable deposit is due on 31 October 2022. #Grand Empress Steam Train available on all departures between Apr-Sep. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation. #A10825. APT-3172-TC
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Expert cruise directors and local guides
A total of 41 meals at your choice of dining locations
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Escapes 102 Luxe South Pacific | 114 New London hotels | 118 Indulgent New Zealand
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The ultimate African road trip
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My Life In Travel
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Robbie Williams: “Unlike lots of celebs, I only take a private jet if I really need to” The singer-songwriter loves Austria and Vegas – but nothing beats British holiday camps. Golf is my recent addiction
What I need from a holiday depends on what addiction I’ve got at the time. Golf is an acceptable middle-aged addiction. The 1990s would have been very different! Just give me a golf course and I’m happy. It gives me purpose. I get to raise my serotonin levels, walk for five miles, better my handicap. There’s also meditation involved because I’m just thinking about the next shot. I’ve got a chequered past with the sport, but my handicap is currently 12. Since lockdown I’ve been playing online – it does the job but obviously it’s not the same.
summer. I’ve spent tens of thousands on holidays since then and those early days were still the best. Simple pleasures are what I aim for. I don’t do vulgar displays of wealth.
We love to ski
Normally we’d go at least once a season. I love Aspen, Zermatt for the views, Courchevel, Lech and Ischgl. Any place that my wife Ayda sees on the TV, she just points at and says, “We’ve got to go there.” I’ve just learnt to go, “Yes darling”, because, as the saying goes, “Happy wife, happy life”. But if we went everywhere she wanted to, I would never be working again in my life.
Pre-pandemic, I was on the road a lot.
In 2019 alone I went to Formentera, Ibiza, Marseille, Romania, Dubai, the United States, Australia and Austria.
Some of the best holidays have cost me nothing! My dad worked as an entertainment manager and compère at holiday camps, like Perranporth, Great Yarmouth and Scarborough. I used to live with him for three weeks in the
Before my wife came along, living in Los Angeles was like a vacation
I wasn’t adventurous and didn’t feel the need to go anywhere. She smoked me out of the house and then the kids smoked me even further out. I would have been a happy Howard Hughes hermit if it wasn’t for them.
I love Mustique because it offers privacy
I have never seen a paparazzo there and you can breathe and let your stomach out. Apart from its outstanding beauty and hospitality, what also makes it unique is that it’s cashless. You don’t need any money or credit cards because you sign for everything.
The family comes with me while I’m on tour as we love being a unit The kids are homeschooled, but they do plenty of activities and sports with other kids their own age. We’re terrified of raising maladjusted brats.
Hawaii has been one of our favourite family holidays
Two years ago, we went there to celebrate my daughter Coco’s first birthday. We went ziplining, swimming with dolphins and night-snorkelling with manta rays. My sons Teddy and Charlie also had their first golf lesson there. As long as I have my laptop, mobile and antidepressants in my hand luggage, then I’m happy! My needs are few.
A bit of action
Opposite: Robbie’s love of golf has led to a J.Lindeberg collab. This page, from top: Ski-ing, Switzerland; swimming with dolphins, Hawaii; Las Vegas.
Las Vegas is like Marmite – you’ll either love it or you’ll hate it
Everyone knows what Vegas is about and what it has to offer. I would say go, get it out of your system and you might be pleasantly surprised!
I’m trying to be more conscious of my carbon footprint Unlike a lot of jet-setting celebs, I
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would only take a private jet if it was a necessity. I’m not perfect, but I try in little ways.
Travel disasters? I’ve had plenty
But none of them are publishable in a respectable paper!
Pre-children, one of the most remote places I’d visited was Tetiaroa in French Polynesia
It’s a small island near Tahiti, which was once Marlon Brando’s private island before being turned into a private luxury resort. It’s a drag to get to – taking a day and a half of travel – but the people are great and the villas are faultless. However, I need a bit more action, whatever it is, or a golf course. And there was neither.
Austria is one of my favourite places to perform When I first went in the 1990s, I was told not to be fazed if the audience wasn’t very warm. But I had the best audience ever. They treated me like I was a rock god, like the best version of Michael Jackson, and it’s been the same way every time I’ve gone back. I also love performing in Germany, Ireland and Australia.
There’s nothing I hate about travelling
...now that you can get a WiFi signal just about anywhere
The Crowne Plaza in Melbourne is one of my favourite hotels
I love the waterfront views, its proximity to lots of great restaurants and shops, and its grandness. It feels like I’m going home when I go there. CT Interview by Sarah Ewing 101
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Hotels & Resorts
Sumptuous
SOUTH PACIFIC
Bask in barefoot luxury, picnic on deserted islands, dive shipwrecks and tuck into farm-to-table cuisine: a new kind of luxury is being served up across the South Pacific, says Sheriden Rhodes.
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hile luxury travel was once defined as opulence – endless marble, gold taps, linen tablecloths and silver service – today’s luxury traveller is looking to be immersed in local culture, seeks life-changing transformative moments and yearns for an experience that is both authentic and uncontrived. Fiji has long been a place for reconnection and respite, and Fijians’ outlook on life instantly puts travellers in a state of calm and happiness says Rob Thompson, Tourism Fiji Australia’s regional director. “Resorts such as Six Senses, Vomo and Kokomo have had a massive uptake in their villas and residences over the past nine months, and experiences like farm-to-table dining, for example, are now becoming integral in resort offerings,” said Thompson. Arguably there’s nowhere in the world better placed to cater to the evolved luxury traveller than the sun-drenched islands of the South Pacific. Here are six of the best resorts redefining the luxury experience.
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Rustic luxe
From top: A simple bungalow at Aore Island Resort in Vanuatu; fresh fish on the menu; the resort’s idyllic lagoon.
Six Senses Fiji
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his game-changing resort on Malolo Island in the Mamanuca group packs serious eco credentials, being Fiji’s first 100 per cent solar-powered resort, but that’s just one of its impressive sustainable initiatives. House-made tonic water, probiotics, an organic farm and a layered approach to wellness are on the menu at an über-luxe resort framed by gigantic baka trees and fronting an expansive bay. There are 24 spacious and sumptuous pool villas and 60 residential villas designed by award-winning New Zealand architect Richard Priest, while the cuisine is locally inspired and sustainably sourced (resident chickens and bees provide free-range eggs and honey), and the wine is both sulphite-free and organic. The Six Senses Spa offers full-body assessment programs, tailored treatments and a state-of-the-art gym, as well as an extensive wet area, alchemy bar and treetop yoga pavilion. Resort general manager Mark Kitchen said you can’t beat Six Senses Fiji for a true island retreat experience that is genuinely accessible. “Less time to commute means more time to focus on memories and wellbeing,” he said. “The most magical thing about our resort – besides the amazing location – is, of course, our people and holistic lifestyle philosophy. Our team is endlessly happy, authentic and positive with smiles and a genuinely caring approach that ensures every guest feels like family.” sixsenses.com
Island living
Opposite: A Six Senses pool villa. Above: The resort’s yoga pavilion. Left: An Oceanview Pool Residence. Below: Paddling the lagoon.
Aore Island Resort, Vanuatu
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es, more luxurious resorts call Vanuatu’s palm-fringed shores home. In fact, it’s a stretch to call this rustic luxe resort just off Vanuatu’s second-most popular island, Espiritu Santo, five-star. There’s no air-conditioning, no room service, patchy WiFi and its tiny spa is but a room. Yet staying in one of the simple beachfront fares unplugged from the world feels luxurious in a way many more lavish resorts can’t emulate. The charming 18-bungalow resort provides easy access to the best of the northern Vanuatu province of Sanma, while still maintaining the feel of a far-flung island paradise. Take a swim in the amazing Blue Holes, with its staggeringly beautiful fresh water the colour of sapphires, and have a picnic at the postcardperfect Champagne Beach. Guests can partake of kava while watching the sun slip into the channel from the large open-air meeting place. A highlight is a traditional water-dancing show, where local women create an enchanting musical experience. aoreislandresorts.com
“The charming resort provides easy access to the best of the northern Vanuatu province of Sanma.”
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Hotels & Resorts
Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort, Fiji
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ou won’t find air-conditioning (aside from the swish presidential pool villa), thousand-thread-count sheets nor a lavish spa at this all-inclusive eco-stay at Savusavu, Fiji’s hidden paradise. Instead think barefoot luxury at its best, underpinned by an ethos that aims to connect guests with Fiji’s rich culture and its biodiverse marine surrounds, which have been called the “soft coral capital of the world” by none other than Jean-Michel Cousteau himself. “One of our main priorities is to find new and exciting ways to engage and educate our guests in the local culture and environment,” said Bart Simpson, general manager of Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort. And there are endless ways for guests young and old to do this. Join resident biologist Johnny Singh on a night snorkelling safari off the pier; dive Namena Marine Reserve, considered one of the world’s top 10 dive sites; or visit Nukubalavu village to see how the locals (many of whom work at the resort) live and play. A changing daily menu includes fresh fish plucked from the local waters outside the barrier reef and produce from the resort’s “edible landscape”. For families, the award-winning Bula Club is arguably the best in the South Pacific, with nannies and buddies on hand from breakfast to bedtime for babies to teens. Now that’s luxury. fijiresort.com
Dive on in
Clockwise from top: The eco-resort has an idyllic location; cocktail hour at the bar; the adults-only pool; world-class diving.
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Sinalei Reef Resort, Samoa
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he unsung Pacific paradise of Samoa – think Fiji decades ago – offers remote, pristine beaches peppered with coconut palms, welcoming locals and warm languid waters. For the ultimate in amorous stays, check into the adults-only Sinalei Reef Resort and Spa, where 29 breezy fales sit garden-, ocean- or beachside, and an open-air spa delivers relaxing treatments to the soundtrack of lapping waves. Tucked away in a pocket of Samoa virtually untouched by commercial tourism, this magical resort is steeped in tradition, immersed in local culture and underpinned by sustainable practices. Join a Cooking with Culture experience, learn the ukulele with local schoolchildren, experience island artistry or visit a local village where the Samoan people, perhaps more than any other Polynesian culture, still observe traditional ways. sinalei.com
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Cue romance
Clockwise from left: Sinalei Reef Resort’s golf course; fiery entertainment; immersing in nature; the resort’s stunning location; fresh seafood on the menu.
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Hotels & Resorts
Nautilus Resort, Cook Islands
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teps from the dreamy Muri Lagoon, this boutique eco-resort is your pick in the Cook Islands for a luxurious family escape. There are 17 spacious Polynesian-inspired villas (pool villas offer absolute beach frontage), a kids’ concierge, Thalgo spa and an excellent onsite restaurant. There’s also a tiered infinity pool fronting the beach, however, the inviting lagoon beckons at every turn, meaning you may never use it. Nautilus sits opposite the picturesque Ta’akoka Motu, which you can swim, kayak or wade to (at low tide) for terrific snorkelling or take a dive to Edna’s Anchor. Here, if you’re lucky, whales can be seen or heard calling to each other in the deep. Also on offer is swimming with turtles, hiking in the mountains, market tours and dinner nearby at the divine Tamarind House. nautilusresortrarotonga.com
Lazing on the lagoon
From top: Lounging around at Nautilus Resort; looking out to the serene Muri Lagoon.
“This boutique eco-resort is your pick in the Cook Islands for a luxurious family escape.”
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Sheraton New Caledonia Deva Golf and Spa Resort, New Caledonia
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n the little-known and undeveloped Deva region, the 180room Sheraton New Caledonia Deva Resort and Spa faces a UNESCO World Heritage-listed lagoon and reef. The hotel features Melanesian architecture, water sports, terrific food, a kids’ club and an 18-hole championship golf course. The 60 striking bungalows are the pick of the accommodation. Each sports a hand-carved tribal motif, none of which are the same. The thatched bungalows are circular and reflect Kanak culture, with grass cloth wall coverings and ceiling friezes based on Kanak figure drawings. Designed by Sydney-based Rick Whalley of CHADA, responsible for the interior design of Saffire Resort in Tasmania and Emirates One & Only Wolgan Valley in the Blue Mountains, the bungalows feature king-size canopy beds and luminous flat-pebble-tiled bathrooms with walk-in showers and freestanding bathtubs. Through double doors, decked terraces with oversized lounges and lanterns overlook the lagoon. Diving, snorkelling, sailing, windsurfing, jet skiing, waterskiing, wakeboarding and kite surfing are all on offer above and below the water. Behind the resort, the rolling hills and valleys of Deva Domain offer picturesque trails for hiking, biking and horse riding with far-reaching vistas of the translucent blue reef. sheratonnewcaledoniadeva.com CT
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Beaches for miles
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Hotels & Resorts
The ultimate
AFRICAN ROAD TRIP A 4,000-kilometre self-driving road trip through South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe serves up spectacular scenery, magnificent wildlife and a mix of roadside camping and luxury safari lodges. Matthew Parris gets behind the wheel.
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“I
Putting it all in perspective
The deserts of Namibia and Botswana both offer spectacles of vast sand dunes.
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s this your first time in the Okavango?” asked Fred, our bush-ranging guide, as we climbed aboard his open-topped Toyota Land Cruiser with its comfy seats, a supply of blankets to keep our knees warm in the evening chill, and a stash of drinks and snacks for sundown. Behind, the little Cessna Caravan roared off down the dirt runway in a cloud of dust. Saving us a three-hour drive from Maun, the nearest town, Mack Air had hopped us here in 11 minutes. Before us was a track through the bush to Sanctuary Retreats’ Stanley’s Camp, and the start of four of the best days I’ll ever have, viewing some of the most superb wildlife in Africa. Lions, leopards, hippos, hyena, even elusive cheetahs … all would soon seem like close friends. Well, maybe not the hyena. But to answer Fred’s question, no, it was not my first time. Botswana’s extraordinary Okavango wetlands – a delta the size of Wales, where a great river from Angola runs into the desert amid an Eden of greenery packed with grazing impala, zebra, elephants, giraffe, chirping insects, antelope of every kind, and alive with birdsong – was all there when I was young. But not the airstrips, the guides, the tasteful lodges or the well-stocked minibars. When I last visited, it was under the last days of British control, when to get into the heart of the Okavango was an expedition, not a holiday. Back then, in the 1960s, I flew to Maun, just one dirt road and a collection of huts, on a battered Douglas DC-4 propeller plane, packed with rough canvas seats meant for mineworkers heading to and from South Africa. Then it was a day or more driving in an old Ford pickup, getting stuck in the sand, to stay with family friends recruiting for the mines. I remember the magic of a landscape like no other, where water meets far horizons that stretch into the Kalahari desert, the sun burns golden as it sets over the leadwood trees, and the stars are so bright you can walk by them. And the croaking of frogs in the night. Would that magic still be there in an age when you can leave home in the evening and be in the Okavango for a game drive and sundowner drinks the next? This is a place now prized by – let’s face it – well-off tourists, who come in modest numbers to immerse themselves in the wildlife, the landscape and disgracefully comfortable accommodation. At Sanctuary’s Chief’s Camp, where I finished my trip, my tent (though that’s too small a word) had two showers (one indoor, one out), a big bath, its own plunge pool
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Deserts and deltas
From top: Himba tribeswomen near Kamanjab in northern Namibia; delicious fare at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp in Botswana’s Okavango Delta; the roomy dining tent at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp.
(from which elephants sometimes drink), a free bar, a deck with outdoor bed, and indoors a vast bed regally draped in a mosquito net with its own fan. All this, and wonderful staff, huge meals and those luxurious go-anywhere Toyotas to guarantee incredible sights. Well, for me none of these changes has spoilt the Okavango. Rather, they have secured its protection by ensuring local people get jobs and the wildlife can thrive. I loved every moment. It was all the more special because it came at the end of something completely different: a 4,000kilometre road trip through three countries, with many nights spent in a small tent, my partner under
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“We were in a different land, one I wish I had discovered when young, a place of dunes, deserts, natural pools and paradise gardens.”
canvas on the roof of our vehicle, cooking our meals by moonlight over open fires. This was the southern Africa I grew up in, and which still feels like home.
/ First stop, South Africa
My journey started, however, in Johannesburg with a lesson in tentcraft at Bushlore, the company from which we hired a four-wheel-drive rebuilt to resemble a Swiss Army knife. Pull down a ladder, and a tent magically appears on the roof. Open a side panel and there’s a row of stowed mugs, pots and cutlery. Open another and you pull out a gas cylinder and screw-on burner. There’s a small fridge, rubber mats and a hydraulic jack to get you out of deep mud, bedding, a water tank with a tap to fill the kettle: everything you need to be self-sufficient in the bush. Our destination was Namibia, 1,300 kilometres to the west. We spent two days driving through a South Africa few European tourists know, through monumental rain storms, ending with a night in tropical greenery at the African Vineyard Guest House (no tent required), on an island in the Orange River near Upington. After a great breakfast (the first of many), we turned onto an empty dirt road (the first of many) and, via the breathtaking Augrabies Falls, headed for the border crossing (the first of many), where 22 iron-ore lorries queued as we had our passports stamped.
/ Into the deserts of Namibia
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Contrasting landscapes
Clockwise from top: Oryx in Namibia’s Sossusvlei; at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp in Botswana; African flamingos in Namibia; pristine nature at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp.
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Hotels & Resorts canyons. Namibia gripped me immediately as we drove through endless open plains, the tall grass glistening flaxen in the afternoon sun, foaming around the base of red rock hills – and then suddenly a plague of locusts, making the road slippery as our tyres crushed through them. It was time to stop. We could have camped, but signs pointed to Vastrap Guest Farm, run by Hettie Steenkamp, with simple but stylish rooms and iced glasses of excellent Windhoek lager on a farm that has been in her family since 1942. It’s a 230-kilometre round trip to the nearest supermarket, she told us the next morning. But the birds were singing, the grass was green, the sheep fat, and the hills all around us called out to be explored. “I might just stay and build a house here,” I said. “You are welcome,” Hettie said. “Don’t be fooled by this, though,” she added, referring to the greenery. “It’s just rained after a nine-year drought.” For days and nights, we travelled through Namibia’s magical lands, where you can drive for two hours and not see another soul, where every bend in the road brings a new view, a new spot for a roadside brew-up, and where there are endless places to put up a tent, light a fire, cook a steak, look at the stars and sleep nights interrupted only by the occasional howl of hyena. At Aus, on the edge of the great Namib desert, we indulged again at Klein-Aus Vista’s Eagle’s Nest Chalets, built around vast granite boulders. The next morning we set out early on well-marked walking trails. One of the joys of Namibia is that with a bit of confidence and a map, you don’t have to be confined to a car. Mostly, though, we spent nights under canvas: first by the desert, at NamibRand Family Hideout, where for a small fee you get a pitch just below the dunes with no sign of humanity, but the comfort of a loo and a solar-heated shower. In the Naukluft Mountain Zebra National Park, we pitched in a gorge beside a river. Exploring its upper reaches after a couple of hours’ walking, we cooled off in a deep pool in the milky limestone. At dawn we walked the Olive Trail. Forget Tuscany: these wild olives grow in a tortured landscape of zig-zag gorges so narrow you can almost touch both sides as you scramble through. At one point, a chain offers a handhold as you edge toe-hole to toe-hole along a cliff above dark water. On another farm, Isabis, Joachim Cranz welcomed us to his whitewashed home that could have been plucked from Germany – the country that once ruled Namibia – apart from the eland antlers over the door. We camped by a birdlife-rich lake, an oasis above the desert that lines Namibia’s coast, and explored a four-wheel-drive trail across his huge farm, crashing down rocky steps and through sandy streams. By now our thoughts were turning to Botswana, and the long drive across Kalahari scrub to get there. We broke the journey in Windhoek, Namibia’s
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Making a splash This page, from top: Lionesses in Botswana’s Okavango Delta; enjoying sundowners at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp in Botswana. Opposite: Exploring the waterways at Sanctuary Stanley’s Camp.
cheerfully serene little capital, and then, just short of the border, at another hospitable farm with cabins, Kalahari Bush Breaks. Where the lawn stops, wildness begins; on a pre-dinner walk we passed a herd of inquisitive giraffe.
/ Driving into Botswana
Passports stamped again, and podcasts easing the six-hour drive, we reached Maun before dark, handing over our car to a team from Bushlore. From here we were in luxury, with four nights in the Okavango. We sat for hours by a family of lions, bored cubs tugging at their mothers’ ears before they marched into the dusk in search of a kill. We saw leopards eat, and cheetahs play, and at night elephants brushed past as we slept. The smaller things 112
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Two great African selfdrive trips Namibia
Expert Africa (then Sunvil Africa) was the first operator into Namibia in 1992, and its managing director Chris McIntyre has written numerous Bradt guidebooks on the region. The team’s favourite itinerary for first-timers explores the Sossusvlei salt pan and the Namib desert, then takes in Damaraland’s wilderness, for rock engravings and desert elephants, before a safari in Etosha National Park. Details: Thirteen nights from AUD$3,400 per person, including car hire, some meals and activities (expertafrica.com), after flying into Windhoek, Namibia.
fascinated me too: termites that built seven-metre mud towers; fireflies; the tiny, yellow Smith’s bush squirrel that I swear could almost walk upside down across your ceiling; the banded mongoose; and everywhere mad male impalas in the middle of the rutting season, so obsessed with proving themselves they forget all danger and get snapped up for dinner. At Chief’s Camp we had brilliant, informed guides, more good food and drink than we could believe, and learnt all about the annual floods that sweep through to turn grassland into lakes and thickets into islands, refreshing the vast natural reservoir on which this ecosystem depends. Was it cheating, to spend nights in luxury? No. It was paradise. But as our Air Botswana plane flew us, home-bound, over the vast, savage lands beneath, I couldn’t help wishing I was back in my own little tent, wrestling with a sleeping bag, the embers of a fire outside and the sound of the African mourning dove flooding each dawn with music. Matthew Parris was a guest of Abercrombie & Kent at Sanctuary Retreats (www. abercrombiekent.com.au) and otherwise travelled independently. Bushlore has 15 days’ 4WD bushcamper rental from AUD$140 per day (bushlore.com). CT Cruise&Travel
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Zimbabwe and Botswana
Start on Botswana’s Chobe river for elephant action, then cross into Zimbabwe where the Victoria Falls steal even the animals’ thunder. Onwards to Hwange National Park (for lions, leopards, cheetahs and buffalos) and Matobo National Park, where your focus moves to extraordinary rock formations and rhinos. Back into Botswana and it’s a quick “hello” to the giraffes of Francistown, then a leisurely couple of days in the Kalahari desert, walking the dunes and spotting meerkat. End in the Okavango. Details: Fifteen nights from AUD$6,250 per person, including domestic flights, car hire, some meals and game drives (responsibletravel.com). Fly into Kasane and out of Maun.
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London’s super stays
From a massive ‘boutique’ hotel to an apartment-style property in the cool part of town, here are the latest hotel offerings in London. By Louise Goldsbury.
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ondon is buzzing, with the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee celebrations the highlight of a sizzling summer. It’s also an exciting time for luxury hotels, with several notable properties opening in London this year and some of the world’s most prestigious brands set to debut soon. Here’s where to stay in 2022 and 2023.
The Londoner
Londoner calling
From top: The Penthouse Suite at The Londoner; healthy, nourishing fare at the hotel’s Refuel; the Green Room private bar and dance floor; the pool at The Retreat spa; the welcoming lobby. Main image: The stunning staircase at The Londoner.
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The route from the tube station to The Londoner couldn’t be any ‘Londoner’ unless you abseiled down Big Ben. The short walk passes West End theatres brandishing billboards for the current hit shows and ends in lively Leicester Square. This new hotel is smack-bang in the middle of the action, yet somehow blocks out the noise. Billed as “the world’s first super boutique hotel”, The Londoner has 350 rooms and suites, an underground pool and spa, six bars and eateries, including a rooftop lounge serving Japanese cuisine, rare whiskies and reserve sakes, and a French-Mediterranean restaurant, Whitcomb’s, with an outdoor terrace. The Residence, for hotel guests only, has three private areas: Drawing Room, which provides complimentary antipasti, soft drinks, tea and coffee alongside board games, newspapers and magazines; Y Bar, for evening drinks and light bites; and The Whisky Room, accessed via a secret door. Spacious suites are equipped with thoughtful extras such as a Dyson hairdryer, handheld clothes steamer, Nespresso machine, smart TV with Chromecast, and fluffy slippers. The Tower Penthouse comes with a mixologist to make cocktails in your room, silk pyjamas to take home and a Burberry raincoat to use during your stay. Most secluded is the subterranean wellness floor, The Retreat, where you can be pampered from head to toe in the hair and nail salons, saunas and spa treatment rooms. For total relaxation, book a poolside cabana (free of charge), sink into the cushions, swim or nap in peace. Adjacent is Refuel, a superfood and supplements clinic that serves sparkling water infused with CBD which, it’s claimed, helps you feel more productive and less stressed. Or you could have a drink in the lobby’s tavern for a similar result, before heading out to a show at your doorstep. thelondoner.com 115
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LONDON HOTELS
One Hundred Shoreditch
The city’s coolest neighbourhood, Shoreditch, is home to East London’s best places to eat, drink and shop, but this new hotel gives you every reason to stay within its stylish walls. There are six excellent bars and restaurants, a local artists’ workshop, comfortable workspaces (in case you’re in town for business or remote working), and a room full of Peloton bikes. Guests can even exercise in privacy by booking an in-room bike from the Peloton concierge. One Hundred Shoreditch’s studio suites feel like luxury apartments, with large balconies, bespoke furniture, curated artworks, and living and dining areas. Interconnecting rooms are also available for families. The most stunning space is The Rooftop, a plant-filled bar that blends spiky succulents, spicy margaritas, fine wine and wonderful views. Take a seat at a pink marble table, order a few snacks and beverages, and enjoy Latin music (Thursday to Saturday) as you watch the sunset. In the basement is the more laidback Seed Library, created by award-winning bartender Ryan ‘Mr Lyan’ Chetiyawardana. Choose from a bottle of Krug, a chive daiquiri or a black elderflower French martini. Don’t miss the impeccable food and service at Goddard & Gibbs, which specialises in ethically sourced British seafood, such as the roasted skate wing with XO butter, or Maldon oysters accompanied by a glass of Rathfinny Estate’s lovely sparkling wine from Essex. On weekends, bottomless brunch flows with Laurent-Perrier champagne. Within walking distance are the Columbia Road Flower Market, Brick Lane Market, Spitalfields Market, Victoria Miro Gallery, the century-old Whitechapel Gallery, the Museum of Happiness and plenty of amazing street art (including a priceless Banksy on nearby Rivington Street). onehundredshoreditch.com CT 116
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It’s a Shoreditch thing
This page, from top: The lobby bar at One Hundred Shoreditch; the hotel’s Goddard & Gibbs restaurant; Studio Plus rooms feature wall-to-wall sofas; The Rooftop Bar at sunset. Opposite, from top: Lounging at One Hundred Shoreditch; The Rooftop Bar.
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+ Coming soon Be the first to stay at these five-star icons, scheduled to open next year. Raffles London at The OWO
Raffles’s first property in the UK will have 11 bars and restaurants, a spa with a 20-metre indoor pool, a separate vitality pool and a grand ballroom. Open to the public for the first time in more than a century, the landmark Old War Office building was Winston Churchill’s headquarters during World War II.
The Peninsula London
Overlooking Hyde Park Corner and the Wellington Arch from its rooftop bar, this legendary brand will offer The Peninsula Spa, a Cantonese restaurant and a luxurious shopping arcade in the heart of Belgravia.
Broadwick Soho
Renowned interior architect and designer Martin Brudnizki describes his creation as “your eccentric godmother’s Soho townhouse”, with 57 lavish rooms, a Sicilian-inspired restaurant and wraparound rooftop bar.
Art’Otel
In the new London Battersea Power Station development, this lifestyle hotel is set to unveil an art gallery, rooftop pool and garden, and bold interiors by designer Jaime Hayon.
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A bowl of Aotearoan fare, anyone? Peter Lynch discovers the hugely successful movement to fully integrate Māori culture has moved to the kitchens of New Zealand’s best restaurants.
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A glass or two with a view
Left: Mudbrick winery’s restaurant on Waiheke Island. Above: A tempting dish of tahr (goat) tartare at Ahi restaurant in Auckland.
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irst-timers visiting Auckland are sometimes surprised by the prevalence of the Māori language on street signs, in the media and in daily speech of the locals. The revival in recent years has been so successful that Māori language classes are inundated, and even foreign entertainment giants such as Disney are dubbing favourites like Frozen, The Lion King and Moana. There’s even a debate about changing the name of New Zealand to Aotearoa. Many believe the effect would be detrimental – somehow “100% Aotearoa” doesn’t quite have the same ring as the country’s famous advertising slogan. That said, the uniqueness of the country’s cultural heritage is a definite plus. And the movement is now moving to the kitchens. We are breakfasting at Homeland, a cooking school, produce shop and restaurant that calls itself an embassy for Aotearoa and the Pacific. Chef Peter Gordon runs this outpost in Auckland’s docklands. The hugely successful international restaurateur and chef is a 119
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“We lunch at Mudbrick, a stunning winery with views of Hauraki Gulf and the Auckland skyline.”
NEW ZEALAND FOOD & WINE
passionate advocate of Māori fare. He has taken the food around the world for 30 years and has now settled at his “embassy” to pass on the knowledge. On the menu this morning is hangi pork belly – it’s cooked by burying it with heated rocks – fried banana and date and tamarind puree. Or our choice: paua, a Zealand species of large edible sea snail, in cream on ciabatta bread. It’s delicious and different. Think abalone puree on toast. Gordon is of Māori and Scottish descent, and happily talks us through the menu. He is excited by the fact that Homeland’s learning kitchen is booked out by corporates keen to master Māori cooking techniques. He has his own producers, and helps others get to market. We leave with a stash of goodies, including Niue Honey from the tropical forests of the tiny South Pacific island Niue, and golden turmeric latte mix. The Land of the Long White Cloud may be only a three-hour flight away, but New Zealand is gloriously different. Australia may be 29 times larger, but New Zealand is every bit as fascinating and culturally diverse. And culinarily diverse. We’re staying at the oh-so-trendy SO/ Auckland hotel in the harbourside Britomart district. It’s slap in the middle of a trove of designer shops and newwave eateries. The foyer is filled with sequined mannequins and black sofas hanging upside down. Our suite is designer cutting-edge, with black-marble bathrooms so dark I need the bedside lights to shave. Window shopping in the laneways, where Karen Walker and Kate Sylvester rub shoulder pads with Tiffany, Gucci and Dior, is a great way to while away some time. But we’re here to try out the latest in food and wine. Set in Auckland’s take on Asian hawker-style street markets, Ahi is a restaurant that is determined to use local produce to create something different. There is duck pie, venison, speared fish and New Zealand eel. You’ll be pleasantly surprised at what arrives on the plates. Brilliant concoctions like chicken scallops, shaped like the seafood and with a similar texture, surrounded by cauliflower and mushrooms. Our steamed cod with crispy battered green-lipped mussels and home-grown vegetables is delicious. Service is brisk and friendly, with small plates for a few dollars. We tried a Misha’s High Note pinot noir – absolutely delicious. The following morning, we set off for Waiheke Island, which is also known as Wine Island, a 40-minute ferry ride from the city centre. Waiheke packs 20 vineyards into just 92 kilometres, and most of its 9,700-odd inhabitants work in the wineries, restaurants and holiday homes. You can hike, bike or kayak your way around the coastline, or slide across the valleys on a zip line. Our host, Jenny McDonald, has been running Ananda Tours for 20 years and knows every inch of the island. 120
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Waiheke’s specialty is big reds. We try Stonyridge; its Larose 1987 was voted the best red ever made in New Zealand, and its ripe plum, berry fruit and vanilla flavours make it the most collectable wine in the country. Sadly, as winemaker Martin Pickering tells us as we sit outside his cellar door happily trying his favourites, just 9.5 hectares and a determination to produce only high quality wines means there isn’t much of it. That’s why the 2019 vintage costs AUD$338 a bottle. We are happy to confirm it is truly delicious. You can buy it through its own fan club – En Primeur – at Stonyridge.com. And you can get it delivered in Australia. We lunch at Mudbrick, a stunning winery and restaurant with views of Hauraki Gulf and the Auckland skyline. We can see why wedding parties have marked this out as a must. We feast on oysters from a farm on Te Matuku Marine Reserve in the island’s south-east corner, and cod with poached zucchini and sour apple. Mudbrick’s cellar door manager Bob Scott enthusiastically takes us through the winery’s chardonnay, syrah, merlot/cabernet/petit verdot/ malbec and the 2020 Velvet blend. He’s a veteran winemaker and loves the flavours of Waiheke wines. On the way back to the ferry, we stop by a stunning house and studio built by American abstract painter Gabriella Lewenz. She and her husband built this
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Concierge
Our stay: The SO/ Auckland hotel was fabulously central, had harbour views and a Bentley on the forecourt. The pool and gym were utterly cool. Our suite cost around AUD$760, including breakfast. Book at all.accor.com. Our tour: An Ananda tour of Waiheke Island starts at AUD$195. We loved the tiny community of Waiheke, and the wines of Stonyridge were outstanding. See ananda.co.nz.
Something different: The Sculptureum in Matakana is a truly eclectic collection of artworks owned by two of the country’s top lawyers. It has three sculpture gardens, six art rooms, a vineyard, two restaurants and a bar. See sculptureum.nz.
Deals: For specials on trips to Auckland and surrounds, see book.exploretravel.com.au.
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Bring your appetite Opposite, from top: A visually striking dish at Auckland’s Ahi restaurant; Ahi chef Ben Bayly (right). This page, above and right: On the Brick Bay sculpture trail; enjoying wine on Waiheke Island.
amazing Tuscan-style villa, and found a mudbrick maker to complete it. These are the stories that make New Zealand such a fascinating destination. Next day, we drive north to visit the Brick Bay sculpture trail, built by one of New Zealand’s richest families. After a platter of dips, meats and local olives, we adjourn to the nearby Sculptureum, home to the eclectic but absorbing collection of Anthony and Sandra Grant, two lawyers who simply collected and collected and collected. Back in town, we dine at the QT Hotel’s Esther. Here, New Zealand dining is at another level. Executive chef Sean Connolly and his team serve up an amalgam of gorgeous Mediterranean fare: portobello mushrooms and labneh in chilli oil, and gnocchi sardi and Tasmanian octopus ragu. The fabulous flavours explode in your mouth. We can’t resist Sean’s steak tartare and fries, and we’re mightily temped by the duck tortellini. Esther is warm, comforting and packed with happy patrons. We round off the evening at the hotel’s rooftop bar where the manager kindly opens the roof, so we can glimpse Auckland’s famous Sky Tower with its pink lights, and gives us a welcome glass of champagne. New Zealand’s Prime Minister Jacinda Ardern recently suggested that Australia and New Zealand belong on the same holiday itinerary because they are so similar. She couldn’t be more wrong. Our all-too-brief Auckland food safari proved that. CT 121
23/8/2022 9:12 am
Last Word
Suddenly, your holiday just got a whole lot longer Words | ROSE JACOBS
L
ike your holiday destination so much you don’t want to go home? You’re not alone. We all fantasise about being on permanent vacation. But wait, we worked from home during COVID, didn’t we? Do we actually have to be home to work? The answer appears to be no. Thanks to the pandemic, a whole lot of countries are now willing to welcome so-called digital nomads, who really can sit by the poolside and be in the office at the same time. Indeed, many nations have decided high-networth digital nomads are the perfect tourists. They respect the local culture and have a vested interest in the country they are living in. Several destinations are making it official. Not only do they now offer payments for professionals to relocate and exemptions from local taxes if they stay and work, but some countries are throwing in a game-changer, offering special multi-year visas specifically for digital nomads. While the nomads sip on their mojitos from their deckchairs, uploading their content and downloading their pay packets, countries in need of a tourism boost get also to increase the number of visitors during off-peak seasons, with these travellers staying longer and leaving a more sustainable footprint. They’re also spending more money, since they’re still earning as they travel. What’s not to #love about that? And the #love just keeps on going viral. Digital nomads effectively become marketing and publicity tools for the destination purely by being there. #bigbrotheriswatching. It costs the country nothing to get this publicity. In fact, you can even cut back on your national tourism marketing budget and just let the influencers strut their way right in. #onlocation #guesswhereiam #landed #myoffice #tropicalbliss #lunchtimeswims #paidtoholiday Among the dozens of countries friending this trend, there are several different criteria for obtaining a digital nomad visa. Belize requires 122
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“It’s no longer about ‘working from home’, now it’s more like ‘working from beach’.” you to prove an annual income of USD$75,000 (not too sure there’ll be too many of them). Brazil needs proof of USD$1,500 income per month or funds greater than USD$18,000 (this is more likely). Argentina only asks that you prove you have an actual job (this is the majority of actual so-called digital nomads or influencers). Buenos Aires aims to attract 22,000 digital nomads by next year, which they predict will inject USD$139 million into the local economy. (Yes, good luck with that, since “having a job” doesn’t necessarily mean “I get paid to post selfies of myself on the beach”). But there’s a catch. Now that the world is the virtual working oyster of anyone with an Instagram account, destinations are left
spending a fortune trying to influence the influencers. Digital drawcards are popping up rapidly to entice the crème de la crème of the online elite. Italy has gone all out and spent more than USD$1 billion in infrastructure and high-speed internet for small rural towns to attract digital nomads. Even Venice has a new online platform called Venywhere to attract digital travellers, which they say will help diversify the economy of this city plagued by overtourism. Is it just me, or have the Italians still got a little way to go in grasping how this new concept works, to make money (not spend billions) by attracting travellers (unless you already have too many)? Ahhhh forget it, here, have some more pizza! Whether you’re of the riff-raff variety or the Belize-worthy virtual elite, this is certainly a sign of what’s to come for the future of workspaces worldwide. It’s no longer simply about being “out of office”, instead it’s “out of country”. And it’s no longer “working from home”, now it’s “working from beach”. So as I take one final sip of my piña colada and sign off from this deckchair overlooking the setting sun, I for one have to say #cheerstothat! CT Cruise &Travel
23/8/2022 9:14 am
“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes” – Marcel Proust
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22/8/2022 6:00 pm
Unmissable
CRUISE & RAIL HOLIDAYS FEATURING CORAL PRINCESS® & THE GHAN
SAVE $ 200
PER PERSON!
Coral Princess®
Broome
The Ghan
West Coast & Top End Explorer with Coral Princess® & The Ghan Expedition 16 nights departing 13 April 2023 • 8 nights aboard Coral Princess® cruising from Perth (Fremantle) to Darwin with scenic cruising along the Kimberley Coast & port calls in Geraldton, Broome & Kuri Bay. • Darwin City Sights tour with lunch & a visit to the Royal Flying Doctor Service Facility. • 5 night stay at the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Esplanade Darwin including breakfast. • Darwin Harbour Sunset Dinner Cruise. • Litchfield National Park Waterfalls tour. • 3 nights aboard The Ghan Expedition travelling from Darwin to Adelaide in Gold Service.
Was $8,599 Fr
8,399
$
pp twin share
Brisbane
Kimberley Coast (scenic cruising) Kuri Bay
East Coast & Top End Explorer with The Ghan & Coral Princess®
Darwin Katherine
Alice Springs
Perth/ Fremantle
Coober Pedy Adelaide
This holiday is available without The Ghan 13 nights departing 13 April 2023
Fr
holidaysofaustralia.com.au holidays@holidaysofaustralia.com.au
• 2 nights aboard The Ghan travelling from Adelaide to Darwin in Gold Service. • 3 night stay at the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Esplanade Darwin including breakfast. • Big Bus Darwin 24-hour hop-on hop-off ticket. • Entry to the Royal Flying Doctor Service Facility. • Litchfield National Park Waterfalls tour. • 9 nights aboard Coral Princess® cruising from Darwin to Sydney with port calls in Cairns, Willis Island & Brisbane.
Was $6,949
Was $3,779
3,579 pp twin share
$
Darwin Katherine
14 nights departing 16 April 2023
Broome
Geraldton
Nitmiluk Gorge
Fr
6,749
$
pp twin share
Alice Springs Marla
Willis Island Cairns
Brisbane
Sydney Adelaide
This holiday is available without The Ghan 12 nights departing 18 April 2023
Fr
was $3,629
3,429 pp twin share
$
1300 854 897
or contact your local licensed travel agent
& THE WORLD
Conditions apply. Offers available for sale as listed above unless sold out prior. Prices and inclusions are correct as at time of printing & may be subject to change due to availability, surcharges, fees or taxes without notice. Seasonal surcharges & blackout dates may apply. Discounts & savings have been applied to the price. Not available with any other offer. Prices are per person twin share in a Gold Service rail cabin & an inside cruise cabin. For full terms & conditions visit www.holidaysofaustralia.com.au. Offers may be withdrawn at any time without notice. E&OE. Ghan image credit Journey Beyond. Brisbane image credit Tourism & Events QLD. Nitmiluk Gorge image credit Tourism NT. - HA6105
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Package also available without The Ghan journey 22/8/2022
11:20 am