Cruise & Travel 89

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Ice Capades Antarctica’s adventure boom

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Tailor-Made Travel just for you, with unmatched authenticity and style.

For over 60 years, Abercrombie & Kent has been creating inspiring luxury adventures on all seven continents exploring the world’s most remarkable locations and cultures. Our worldwide portfolio includes the eternal travel favourites — Africa, Egypt, Japan, Argentina, India and Italy — as well as more off-the-beaten-track, emerging destinations that are full of fascination and intrigue such as Saudi Arabia, South Korea, Iceland and Colombia.

A Tailor-Made Journey with A&K is an itinerary designed just for you and your travelling companion. It means seeing the world exactly how you want to see it, on an itinerary fashioned for you by the region’s foremost experts.

If you’re looking for a private handcrafted adventure in true A&K luxury — exquisite accommodation, perfectlypaced itineraries, curated cultural experiences, exclusive access and privileges, and unforgettable encounters with local people and wildlife — start exploring now and find yourself somewhere amazing.

Great East Africa Migration

Nile in Style

Jordan Uncovered

Uncover the world’s most acclaimed wildlife reserves on this bespoke journey through Kenya and Tanzania. Witness the Great Migrations of the Serengeti, immerse yourself in a Maasai community, and seek out the majestic elephants of Tarangire, while staying in exclusive luxury and style.

Experience majestic ruins, temples, tombs and the timeless beauty of the Nile on a luxury cruise.

From Luxor to Aswan, glide along emerald waters past breathtaking desert landscapes, and explore archeological marvels with your own personal A&K Egyptologist — including the Valley of the Kings and Pyramids of Giza — tailor-made just for you.

Ancient history and biblical sites vie with beautiful landscapes in this extraordinary desert kingdom where you can wander down ancient Roman streets, dine on traditional cuisine and marvel at some of the starriest skies on earth. The hospitality of the Bedouin will win you over and you’ll be amazed to discover a 60-year-old wine industry.

12 days from $17,845 pp

9 days from $8,770 pp

10 days from $10,600 pp

Splendours of Rajasthan

Colombia Revealed

Splendours of Sicily

Step back into a bygone era of emperors and princes in royal Rajasthan. Discover Delhi’s colonial grandeur. Be awestruck by the perfect elegance of the iconic Taj Mahal. Admire the magnificence of Jaipur’s Amber Fort. Savour a sunset across the exquisite lake palaces of Udaipur, and live like a maharaja in India’s most regal hotels.

From its palm-fringed Caribbean coast to its coffee plantations, peaks and savannahs, Colombia hosts tremendous natural diversity. Coloured villages, street art and museums reinforce the country’s rich artistic traditions, while gastronomy delights at every turn. Journey through Colombia and you’ll agree it’s Latin America’s best kept secret.

Sicily’s successive waves of conquerors have each left their mark on this open-air museum with its Greek temples and Norman churches, Baroque palaces and dramatic cliff-top villages. Lush mountains, sun-drenched plains and sandy beaches are a backdrop to the bustling cities of Palermo and Syracuse while its cuisine is a rich blend of styles.

9 days from $5,125 pp

14 days from $8,995 pp

10 days from $12,990 pp

To learn more about the full range of A&K Tailor-Made Journeys, please call Abercrombie & Kent on 1300 851 800, visit www.abercrombiekent.com.au or talk to your travel agent. *Terms & Conditions apply. Prices shown are per person based on twin share and are subject to availability.

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IT’S YOUR HEART THAT TAKES YOU PLACES We make your travels to the world’s most magical destinations possible.

But it’s your endless passion for discovery that leads you there.

ITALIAN RIVIERA & GREEK COVES

NORTHERN EUROPE MOSAIC

MONTE CARLO to ATHENS 6 Aug, 2023 | 10 days | SIRENA

COPENHAGEN to AMSTERDAM 14 Sep, 2023 | 12 days | RIVIERA

OLIFE CHOICE* Free Pre-paid Gratuities plus choose one:

Free Shore Excursions Free Beverage Package Free Shipboard Credit Veranda Stateroom fares from

Veranda Stateroom fares from

AU$7,490 per guest*

AU$8,780 per guest*

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LEARN MORE

E X Q U I S I T E LY C R A F T E D C U I S I N E . C U R AT E D T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E S . S M A L L S H I P L U X U R Y. V I S I T O C E A N I A C R U I S E S . C O M | C A L L 13 0 0 355 2 0 0 | C O N TA C T YO U R T R AV E L A D V I S O R

TERMS & CONDITIONS *Fares and itineraries are accurate as of 25th January 2023 and are subject to change or withdrawal. The quoted fares are valid until 31st March 2023, unless sold out prior and include any/all savings/upgrades. Airfares are additional. Cruise fares are per person, twin share in AUD and include all taxes, port fees and onboard gratuities. OLife Choice offers are valid until 31st March 2023. Guests in the same stateroom must choose the same OLife Choice amenity and amenity must be chosen by final payment. Fares are valid only for residents of, and booking through travel advisors located in Australia, or through the Australia contact centre and are valid for new bookings only. For full terms & conditions that apply, please visit OceaniaCruises.com/terms. All rights reserved. Oceania Cruises is not responsible for typographical errors or omissions. Ships’ Registry: Marshall Islands. NCL Australia Pty Ltd ABN 8060 7578 781

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Voyages poised to make history Celebrating 130 years of sailing Norway’s extraordinary coast with two iconic voyages to the northernmost reaches of the world.

Scan to start exploring today

New Voyages Svalbard Express | 10 & 16 Days Visit the Lofoten Islands, Vesterålen and the North Cape.

North Cape Express | 9 & 16 Days Visit Oslo, southern Norway including Bergen and scenic cruising through Hardangerfjord.

Norway’s Coastal Kitchen Enjoy fresh local produce sourced from the areas we sail to. This includes access to an à la carte restaurant, whisky tastings, cooking classes and onboard entertainment.

Wildlife Polar bears, reindeer, bearded seals and different birdlife.

VOYAGES FROM ONLY

$4,054

pp*

Explore today

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12515 H

BARENTS SEA

North Cape 71°N

Honningsvåg

Alta Tromsø

THE LYNGEN ALPS

Vesterålen

Stokmarknes

Lødingen

Trollfjord

Svolvær Lofoten

66°33'N

ARCTIC

CIRCLE THE SEVEN SISTERS

Coast of Helgeland

Brønnøysund TORGHATTEN

Rørvik NORWEGIAN SEA

North Cape Express

Sail under the majestic Northern Lights The North Cape Express makes history as the first Hurtigruten Norwegian Coastal Express to sail from Oslo, the country’s vibrant capital. Over 16 days, it will reach both Norway’s southernmost and northernmost points, including the snow-covered reaches of the North Cape, 71 degrees far-north.

Molde

Ålesund

Along the way it will take in stunning fjords and dramatic landscapes, and the idyllic charm of the countless colourful villages that dot the length of the coastline.

NORWAY Bergen Hardangerfjord

Oslo

Oslofjord

Haugesund

Watch as the Northern Lights dance across the night sky from the comfort of the deck or your cabin on board the refurbished MS Trollfjord.

NORTH SEA

Farsund

Kristiansand LINDESNES

SKAGERRAK

Life on board has certainly come a long way since that maiden journey in 1893: guests on the North Cape Express (as on the Svalbard express) can expect premium offerings like wine, beer, champagne and whisky tastings, cooking classes, a cocktail bar and other on-board entertainment.

This voyage is also available as a 9-day itinerary.

Northern Lights Promise* — If the Aurora Borealis does not appear on a Northern Lights season cruise, receive a free 6 or 7-day Classic Voyage.

80° NORT

North Cape 71°N

BARENTS SEA

H

BAREN SEA

Honningsvåg KONGSFJORD

Ny-Ålesund ISFJORD

Tromsø

Long yearbyen

Senja

THE LYNGEN ALPS

Vesterålen

SVALBARD

Stokmarknes Trollfjord

Svolvær

South Cape

80° NORT

KONGSFJORD

H

Bjørnøya

CI RC LE

THE SEVEN

Tromsø

Long yearbyen

an archipelago situated around 900 kilometres further north than the tip of mainland Norway.

South Cape There are more polar bears than people here, and swathes of stunning endless white that leave you in no doubt that you are at the very top of the world.

SEA

Ålesund

Lofoten

Bjørnøya

This voyage is also available as a 10-day itinerary.

AR CT IC

CI RC LE

NORWAY

66 °3 3'N

NORTH THE SEVEN SISTERS SEA TORGHATTEN

Åndalsnes Urke

Hjørundfjord

Træna

About as far north as you can go, Svalbard is

THE LYNGEN ALPS

Stokmarknes Svolvær

Hurtigruten are the only operator of this iconic route, and remain as much of a lifeline as between 1968 and 1982, when it initially ran.

Coast of Helgeland

NORWEGIAN Senja

Vesterålen Trollfjord

Over 16 days the Svalbard Express will take in some of the Norwegian coast’s most epic destinations: the stunning Lofoten Islands, historic Vesterålen and the North Cape — before heading north to Longyearbyen, the world’s northernmost populated city.

The Svalbard Express reflects Hurtigruten’s love of bold exploration.

AR CT IC

SISTERS Honningsvåg Brønnøysund

Ny-Ålesund

SVALBARD

Explore the realm of the Polar Bear

B A R E N T S 66 °3 3'N SEA

TORGHATTEN

ISFJORD

Svalbard Express

Lofoten

North Cape Træna 71°N

BARENTS SEA

Bergen

Brønnøysund

Coast of Helgeland NORWEGIAN SEA

Ålesund

Åndalsnes Urke

Hjørundfjord

NORWAY NORTH SEA

Bergen

Call 1300 322 062 or visit hurtigruten.com.au *Terms & Conditions apply. ‘From’ price correct as of Jan 25 2023 and is subject to availability based on North Cape Express Nov 23 2023 departure.

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Contents

Cruise

Travel

March 2023

68

Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au Editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Sub editor Claire Waddell Art director Catherine Martin Commercial director Phil Mahony phil@bigsplashmedia.com.au Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au Contributors and writers Tallis Boerne Marcus, Sue Bryant, Bernadette Chua, Emma Featherstone, Louise Goldsbury, Fiona Harper, Gabriella Le Breton, Teresa Ooi, Gabrielle Sander Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 – Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 – International cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine Printed by IVE Cover: Penguin-spotting in Antarctica.

cruisepassenger.com.au

Contents / Autumn 2023 18

Upfront

MULTI MEDIA COMMUNICATIONS

Cruise&Travel magazine is published

by Big Splash Media Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Copyright Big Splash Media Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher.

All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided. Always consult your travel agent.

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Our news section, which includes the luxury floating hotels trend, the return of Crystal Cruises, our round-up of the cruise ship launches to watch in 2023 and more!

OCEANS

48

Hey, big spender

What’s hot in expedition and luxury cruising.

Reviews

50

This is not a vacation…

... it’s an expedition. On board Viking Polaris in Antarctica.

56

Spirited away

Inside the $100m refurb of Norwegian Spirit.

62

The happiest people on Earth Sailing French Polynesian waters on Paul Gauguin.

68

Standing tall

Relish the romance of a journey with Star Clippers.

74

Expect the unexpected

A trans-Tasman cruise from Australia to New Zealand on Azamara Quest.

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RIVERS

ESCAPES

82

98

Rivers of dreams

The lure of longer and more in-depth and luxurious river journeys.

Reviews

88

Biking with Viking Combining a Rhine river cruise with exploring the countryside by bike.

92

Très chic A Uniworld cruise through south-west France impresses this first-time river cruiser.

Big, brash and braggable

Luxury travel is all about private islands, floating villas and all-out decadence.

102

My life in travel Giorgio Armani gives us a tour of Pantelleria.

Subscribe & Save

118

Last word Wake up to the very latest trend in travel: Sleep tourism.

98

104

Gone bush

On safari with author Kathy Lette in Tanzania.

WIN a $2500 cruise voucher Never miss an issue of Cruise & Travel – subscribe today and get it home-delivered You’ll go into the draw for a $2500 cruise voucher

114

Skiing with the super-rich

Plus you’ll save an incredible $37 – it costs just $50 for four issues

Where private jets, bulletproof chalets and ski butlers are the norms.

Subscribe today!

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Travel

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READERS’ CHOICE 2022

88 Cruise &Travel

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• The ultimate Nile voyage • Win a $2,000 cruise voucher • NYC’s most expensive hotel

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The Best Cruise Lines of 2022 26/10/2022 6:07 pm

Go to: cruisepassenger.com .au/magazine 13

27/2/2023 12:08 pm

Welcome

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Big ambitions W

elcome to our Autumn edition. Hard to believe that we’ve just completed our first year of travel. Yes, it really was only on February 21 last year that we reopened our borders. It has been truly staggering to see how quickly things have returned to relative normality, and how Australians have embraced the idea of seeing the world again.

We’ve been booking up those big trips we’ve been dreaming about for ages. The ones on that bucket list we scribbled over a glass of wine after dinner, but only thought would be useful in our retirement. It’s such a phenomenon, it has recently been renamed the F***-it List. Money, apparently, is no object as we grab the opportunity to catch up with our world. It’s almost as if we can’t quite believe this freedom will last.

In this edition, we celebrate the Big Trip. We’ve taken a few ourselves. We visited Antarctica, which is soaring in popularity, and some 90 ships are expected this year during the peak season of November to March. What we loved most was the way cruise lines are bringing important research into play, turning us into citizen scientists while teaching us about this extraordinary part of our planet.

We travelled with Viking on its new expedition ship, Viking Polaris. As an example of just how serious the lines are about their research endeavours, Viking has recently published its first scientific paper on a giant phantom jellyfish observed by its onboard scientific officer Dr Daniel Moore and his team.

Despite reaching up to 30 feet (10 metres) in length, only 126 encounters have been recorded since the species was first described in 1910. So seeing this species several times from Viking’s yellow submersibles is quite something.

“The waters below 50 m remain underexplored on the account of difficulty of access, financial barriers and relatively few operational platforms capable of deployment to such depths,” he writes. “We demonstrate that personal submersibles, now increasingly deployed by the expedition cruise industry, can be vessels of opportunity for biological research in the polar regions. We describe direct observations of the rarely encountered scyphozoan Stygiomedusa gigantea at water depths of 80-280 m in Antarctic Peninsula coastal waters as an example of the potential that personal submersibles present for the scientific community, and we outline possible research avenues for utilizing these platforms in the future.”

We went down in one of the subs ourselves and spotted an Antarctic icefish along with several fossilised plants. You can see our experience on the CruisePassenger YouTube channel.

Australians have also been venturing far afield in places like Africa – our wonderfully personal account by Kathy Lette appears on page 104 – and, of course, in Europe, on rivers and the new but growing band or private yachts. Closer to home, we’ve been to New Zealand. And one spot we think is about to emerge onto the travel radar: French Polynesia.

Now, where are you going?

Peter Lynch, Editor-in-chief and publisher

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Trips of a lifetime

View space from a Neptune Capsule with spaceflight experience company Space Perspective.

Five big trips for your revised bucket list

Space

1

Virgin Galactic is said to be pushing for its first flight carrying fare-paying passengers ($650,000 per person) for later this year after delays with upgrading Eve, the mothership.

Virgin is so confident, it has ordered two new motherships and a fleet of Delta-class space planes for weekly flights. A cheaper option at $180,000 per person is a trip with Spaceship Neptune, set to launch next year.

See: virgingalactic.com; spaceperspective.com

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Geographic North Pole

2

Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot is the world’s first luxury icebreaker and currently the only passenger ship offering cruises to the geographic North Pole. She is also powered by LNG and batteries. Trips to the North Pole take 16 days, and you’re likely to see polar bears, Arctic foxes, reindeer, walruses and whales. You get the chance to hike, kayak, fish and take a polar plunge without a wetsuit. The cruise costs about $60,000.

See: discover.ponant.com

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Hike the Big Five

3

Join a Kenyan guide on a walking expedition across the Mara conservancies.

You’ll spend time at wildlife conservation and community projects along the way including the Maa Trust, Mara Predator Program and the Mara Elephant Project. You’ll be walking 15-20 kilometres per day, so this itinerary requires a good level of fitness.

You’ll stay in a mix of fly camps, permanent camps and safari houses. Six days cost about $6800.

See: asiliaafrica.com

See it all in one go

4

Can’t make up your mind?

How about a world cruise on the most luxurious fleet?

Regent Seven Seas is opening sales on its 2026 154-day extravaganza. There will be six continents, 35 countries over 70 ports, 12 overnights and 432 included shore excursions.

Everything is included, from fine wines to fine dining and a shore excursion each day. A Deluxe Veranda Suite costs AU$135,360 per person, twin share.

See: rssc.com

Dive, dive, dive!

5

Submarines are all the rage, and now you can charter one (it comes with a superyacht). You can descend right to the ocean floor, with the latest models capable of reaching depths of up to 11,000 metres from U-Boat Worx, the company which makes most of the submersibles on cruise ships.

There are a lot of options available, from private rental to cruise-ship dive experiences.

From about $122,000 for a week.

See: charterasub.com CT

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24/2/2023 6:19 pm

TRULY ALL-INCLUSIVE DANUBE RIVER CRUISES

Danube River, Budapest

With Scenic, it’s more than a 5-star river cruise. It’s the most luxurious, relaxing and enriching way to discover the vivid character of Europe’s cities, Belarus towns and villages. It’s more than travelling along extraordinary waterways. It’s seamlessly discovering multiple destinations in one journey.

Ask about our Business and Economy Class offers. Popular dates are in high demand.

Gems of the Danube with Prague Belgium

Danube in Depth with Prague Prague 3

3 Germany

Czech Republic

Nuremberg Regensburg France

Passau Linz

Czech Republic

Germany

Cesky Krumlov Artstetten Castle Dürnstein

7

Salzburg

Melk Austria

NEW FOR 2024

Nuremberg

Prague

Danube

Regensburg

Slovakia Bratislava

Vienna

Szentendre

Passau

Cesky Krumlov Artstetten Castle Dürnstein Danube

Linz

Hungary

Mauthausen

Melk Vienna

Budapest

PNB

Slovakia

Bratislava 9

Austria

GHPB

Hungary

Budapest

Fly Economy to Europe for $995*pp

Fly Economy to Europe for $995*pp

11 Day Cruise & Tour | Prague > Budapest

PLUS, SAVE $500pp when you pay in full 12 months prior* 13 Day Cruise & Tour | Prague > Budapest

Standard Suite in 2023 from $7,075*pp April - October 2023 departures available

Standard Suite in 2024 from $9,095*pp

Truly all-inclusive luxury cruising in a class of its own Small ship with up to 163 guests

All meals and beverages included^

A choice of up to five dining venues

Balcony Suites with Scenic Sun Lounge

Rejuvenating wellness facilities

Exclusive Scenic Enrich experiences

Scenic Freechoice excursions

To book visit scenic.com.au/europe or contact your local Scenic Travel Advisor *Conditions apply. All offers are subject to availability and not combinable with other offers. All offers are limited, subject to availability and valid til 17 April 2023, unless sold out prior. Flights must be booked by Scenic for airfare offers to apply. Airfare offers are valid ex SYD/MEL/BNE/ADL/PER and based on an airline of Scenic’s choosing. If that airline and/or class is not available a surcharge may apply. Airline/airport taxes of up to $265pp are included but may vary depending on gateway cities travelled. Any additional taxes are at the guest’s expense. Fly for $995pp offer is available when linking a Scenic City Stay or Extension with selected Europe river cruises of 8 days and is subject to availability and not combinable with other offers.

Strictly limited suites available on set departures and subject to availability. A non-refundable deposit of $1,000pp is due within 7 days of booking. All airfare deals are subject to availability and scheduled for travel to meet the brochure tour departure dates. Any requests outside of the tour dates may incur seasonal surcharges as enforced by the airline. We reserve the right to ticket any flights upon receipt of deposit and any subsequent changes will incur change and/or cancellation fees. Pricing based on PNB100423 & GHPB230424 in a Cat E Standard Suite. ^All beverages are included except for a very small number of fi ne and vintage wines, Champagnes and spirits. For full terms and conditions visit scenic.com.au/terms. ABN 85 002 715 602

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Upfront | Inspiration for today’s sophisticated traveller |

page

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Cruise &Travel

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Flight status

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Upfront

Floating hotels

A new era of luxe is coming to cruising with high-end travel brands the Ritz-Carlton, Four Seasons, Belmond and Aman keen to put their toes in the water.

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f

our years ago, when the Ritz-Carlton group announced it would be building superyachts, the news sent ripples, if not waves, through the cruise industry.

The Ritz-Carlton’s Evrima promised high-end travellers, who couldn’t quite afford the price tag of owning their own yacht, a chance to be part of the billionaire’s club.

Kitted out with toys such as jet-skis, S.E.A. – a private dining experience by chef Sven Elverfeld of Aqua, the three Michelin-starred restaurant at the Ritz-Carlton, Wolfsburg – Evrima is attracting guests who would have previously not considered taking a cruise.

“Nine out of 10 of our guests have never been on a cruise before, that just shows the type of client we are dealing with,” said Douglas Prothero, CEO of the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection. “You won’t find things like casinos on board, we want guests to explore the places we visit rather than spend all their time on board.”

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“Nine out of 10 of [Ritz-Carlton’s] guests have never been on a cruise before, that just shows the type of client we are dealing with.”

Luxury hotelier Four Seasons shortly followed with its own announcement – a new yacht, which is due to launch in 2025, with a price tag of about $1.7 billion. While it’s not the first yacht in Four Seasons’ stable of offerings, it will surely be the grandest. With no expense spared, each suite is estimated to have cost $5.9 million to build. To give guests a sense of the size, the suites start at about 54 square metres, while the largest will be more than 892 square metres, complete with an indoor/outdoor living space, plunge pool, and dedicated spa area.

The pandemic has spurred a new breed of luxury travellers – they are looking for their own space, want to take minimal flights, access to private airports and planes, and, most importantly, the elimination of pesky border controls.

And perhaps it was this trend that sparked Aman and Belmond to also jump into the cruise space. While Belmond offers barge cruising in locales such as France’s Canal du Midi, earlier this year it revealed details regarding its new Orient Express Silenseas. The ship is set for launch in 2026 with 1500 square metres of rigging for wind propulsion and is also powered by liquified natural gas. What’s even more impressive is the Presidential Suite measures a staggering 1,415 square metres with a 530-square-metre terrace.

On board, guests will be able to use two swimming pools, two restaurants, a speakeasy-type bar, an amphitheatrecabaret with a private recording studio and a spa.

Grand plans

Clockwise, from main: The 149-suite Evrima and (inset) the yacht’s Terrace Suite; artist’s impression of a Four Seasons Yacht and (right) its Funnel Suite; artist’s impression of Aman’s yacht and an aerial view (left).

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CEO of Accor Sébastien Bazin says that the ship marks a “new chapter” in the history of the famous train line.

“This exceptional sailing yacht, with roots in Orient Express’ history, will offer unparalleled service and refined design spaces, reminiscent of the golden age of mythical cruises,” he says.

The launch of Silenseas is a nod to the golden era of luxury tourism in the French Riviera and is designed for more ecoconscious luxury travellers. The company plans to launch a second ship to join Silenseas.

Meanwhile, Aman plans to build a luxury yacht with 50 opulent suites. A wide range of dining options is also promised, as well as a decked-out luxury spa with a Japanese relaxation garden. The ship also boasts two helipads, a beach club and a lounge. Environmental considerations haven’t been sacrificed for extravagance, with the ship being equipped with dual fuel power that can exceed the current environmental standards for cruise ships and yachts.

Marco Ghiglione, managing director of T Mariotti, says it’s an honour to continue making ships in the same vein, with the new luxury yacht a symbol of Italian craftsmanship.

“It’s a privilege to have the opportunity to work with Aman, the pinnacle player in high-end hospitality. We are proud to offer our luxury shipbuilding experience to this challenging new venture offering a unique combination of luxury, safety and versatility which will innovate the art of travelling at sea.

This is yet another sign of the ‘Made in Italy’ skill and capacity to satisfy the wishes of the most demanding customers in the world,” he says.

The other half of the operation, Cruise Saudi, is a publicly backed investment fund looking to expand cruise and tourism across Saudi Arabia and the Middle East. The fund is aiming to exceed one million cruise passengers in Saudi Arabia by 2028 and have five operating ports across the country. CT 19

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Upfront

Indulge your senses

I

n the forests of Victoria’s Dandenong Ranges, an upscale property from Six Senses will be the luxury hotel group’s first in the Australian market. The centrepiece will be the Burnham Beeches estate’s 1930s art deco mansion with 43 guestrooms, a welcome lounge and terrace, a restaurant with outdoor seating,

Cutting Edge

Celebrity Edge will be returning to Australia for the 2024/25 summer. The ship is part of a massive Celebrity cruise program of more than 500 sailings which will visit more than 250 destinations across 70 countries in 16 ships, including Celebrity Ascent, the newest addition to Celebrity’s Edge class. Celebrity Edge will sail out of Australia between October 2024 and April 2025 on itineraries from three to 14 nights. The ship will also head to new ports across the Pacific, including Fiji, Samoa, American Samoa and Tonga.

Among other Celebrity Cruises’ highlights is a range of new European offerings. Seven ships will port out of Europe, including Celebrity Apex which will sail a brand-new 12-night Norwegian Fjord and Arctic Circle itinerary. Also exciting is the deployment of two ships in Asia. Celebrity Millennium will sail from Tokyo on a series of 12-night itineraries to destinations such as Mt Fuji, Kyoto and Osaka.

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a library bar and a rooftop area.

A Six Senses spa with a tea lounge, treatment rooms, a gym, a hydro area and a sauna will pamper guests, while a farm and herb garden will enhance the food offering. There are also plans to include glamping once the 22-hectare resort opens in 2025.

Six Senses is also planning for an ecolodge in Zimbabwe, a resort on Grand Bahama and a Swiss ski resort.

Check it out

July ‘Checked’ 80-litre suitcase, AU$375.

LAND AHOY Gala dinners at Angkor Wat, sunsets at the pyramids of Giza and wildlife viewing in Kruger National Park are just some of the highlights of Scenic’s Iconic Land Journeys.

The 10-day escorted Soul of South Korea tour journeys from Seoul to the bamboo forests of Gwangju and the markets of Busan.

The Iberian Grandeur 11-day luxury package traverses Portugal and Spain. The 28-day Ultimate African Expedition from Cape Town to Nairobi includes visits to Victoria Falls and a Maasai village, an overnight stay at Ghost Mountain and game drives in search of the ‘big five’ – lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and buffalo.

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Music to your ears

Apple AirPods Max in Green, AU$899.

HIGH FIVE! Norwegian Cruise Line

has revealed it will be returning to Africa after a successful inaugural season in the region. Norwegian Jade sailed the first NCL Africa season and now Norwegian Dawn will be joining the party, with both ships exploring the region between January and March 2024. Most itineraries have a strong focus on wildlifespotting, with NCL giving guests the best possible chance of spotting the ‘big five’. The 12-day Africa: South Africa & Madagascar itinerary will take you to Port Louis in Mauritius, the rainforestmeets-reef destination of Pointe des Galets on the island of Réunion, and to Richards Bay and Cape Town in South Africa, as well as two stops in Mozambique. Two 12-day Cape Town round-trips are also on offer, with stops in Namibia, as well as South Africa’s Addo Elephant Park, the DumaZulu Cultural Village and along the famous Garden Route farms.

Circus C comes to town

unard has partnered with Circa, an Australian contemporary circus company, so guests can experience all the fun of the fair when Queen Elizabeth returns for the 2023/24 season. Circa has made waves in the entertainment industry, performing in front of more than 1.5 million people across 40 countries and six continents. Expect daring, artistic performances that express a hybrid of movement, dance, theatre and circus. The shows will take place among the glamour of Queen Elizabeth’s Royal Court Theatre from February 1 to March 10, 2024.

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Upfront

All aboard Accor is reviving the

original Orient Express carriages for train enthusiasts and they are set to hit the rails in 2025.

After discovering the 17 carriages in Poland, Accor commissioned French interior designer Maxime d’Angeac to bring the train back to its former glory.

Of particular note in the design is the expansive Presidential suite which takes up an entire carriage. The suite will have a spacious bathroom, a living area adorned with Lalique glass panels,

Life at the top

antique and handmade furniture, a fireplace and a velvet-lined bedroom. The train will also include restaurant cars and suites with private bathrooms. It’s all part of Accor’s ambitious plan to revive the Orient Express brand. The hospitality group is also opening two Orient Express hotels, La Minerva in Rome and Orient Express Palazzo Donà Giovannelli in Venice, in 2024.

Set to fly first- and business-class travellers in style, Qantas has revealed details on the sleek seats at the pointy end of its new A350. The planes will fly passengers non-stop from Australia to London or New York from late 2025. Space is pivotal and the airline has reduced the total number of seats from 300 to 238. The first-class suite is dripping in luxury, with a huge bed, 32-inch television, reclining chair, wardrobe and a two-person dining table.

The Business suites are also not short on opulence, with a two-metre flat-bed, leather ottoman, an 18-inch touchscreen and a dining table. The Qantas A350 will offer free, highspeed WiFi and first and business suites will provide multiple device-charging options, including wireless. There will also be Bluetooth connectivity, allowing passengers to connect their own headphones to the in-flight entertainment system.

Details are yet to be announced on a Wellbeing Zone for all passengers aboard, along with other additional features on the new aircraft.

Pretty in pink Zimmermann High Tide Lantern mini-dress, $995.

has announced its AROUND Viking 2024/2025 world cruise THE itineraries, which include a voyage that stops in 37 WORLD new countries and 85 ports over WITH 180 days. The World I leaves Florida on VIKING Voyage December 19, 2024, before eventually making its way back to New York, with overnight stops in iconic locations such as Mumbai, Sydney, Istanbul and London. You can join the voyage for shorter portions, including from Los Angeles on January 5, 2025.

The world cruises are aboard Viking Sky which has all-veranda staterooms, a Nordic-influenced spa and the serene Wintergarden. Viking Chairman Torstein Hagen says: “Our previous world cruises sold out in a matter of weeks, and we continue to see strong demand for extended voyages.”

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KIMBERLEY LUXURY EXPEDITIONS

© PONANT-Nick Rains

APRIL TO OCTOBER 2023

1300 737 178 | au.ponant.com | or contact your travel agent

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Under the bridge

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE

That’s the Spirit

Clockwise, from main: Norwegian Spirit in Sydney Harbour; suite on board; the ship’s Teppanyaki restaurant.

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hen Harry Sommer, President and CEO of Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL), visited Sydney to celebrate the arrival of the brand back into Australia, he couldn’t have been prouder to bring an impressive ship to the market.

Sommer said NCL has made a commitment to the Australian market by homeporting Norwegian Spirit Down Under during the wave season and by extensively refurbishing a ship designed to fit under the bridge.

And she’s one of the few ships from the NCL fleet that fits under the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

While Sommer wishes he could bring a Breakaway or Prima class ship; the line had to innovate and think about ways to get hardware to Australia.

“We had such a hard time getting into the Overseas Passenger Terminal, but we were determined. And boy, were we determined,” he said. “So, we went and spent $100 million [AU$147 million] so we could bring a beautiful ship to Sydney. And she isn’t going anywhere. We are committed to this market and she will be here for at least five or six years.

“I think you can count on one hand the number of times a company has committed $100 million to a 20-year-old ship and,

having sailed on it, I think it’s a fantastic thing to have done. When we looked at the platform, we thought this ship could be moulded into something that was beautiful and could last for another 15 or 20 years.”

The line also hopes to lure in luxury passengers with its premium offerings on Norwegian Spirit and other vessels with the ship-within-ship. “We want to find a way to bridge that gap that, if they were affluent clientele that also wanted to travel with their children and grandchildren, we could give them a perfect product.

“It’s really opened up a new demographic because it used to be you know, we would get upper middle class, lower upper-class type of clientele,” he said. CT Read our Norwegian Spirit review on page 56.

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Upfront

To Bhutan &Beyond

Disney’s Global Dream

The acquisition of the as-yet-unfinished 208,000-tonne, 6000-passenger Global Dream ship marks a huge purchase for Disney Cruise Line. Depending on how construction continues, the ship could become one of the largest passenger ships in the world, if not the largest.

Disney takes over the ship from Genting Cruise Lines while it’s still under construction at the Meyer Werft shipyard in Germany. The build is said to be about 75 per cent complete and will include the typical Disney design and amenities. The ship is expected to sail around Asia, with Disney reportedly stating Global Dream will not be based in the US. Disney’s expansion plans are on track as it plans to also take delivery of two ships in 2024-25.

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he ultra-luxury brand &Beyond is expanding its footprint to Bhutan. Set in the lush, green Punakha Valley in the Himalayan Kingdom, the property will open to discerning guests in September 2023. Featuring six tented suites, a two-bedroom villa with a private pool and a one-bedroom villa with a plunge pool/hot tub, the lodge draws inspiration from its natural surroundings and the traditional Bhutanese style. It’s well situated to offer a variety of activities and experiences, including cycling, river rafting and kayaking, as well as exceptional birding opportunities. The lodge’s direct access to the Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten hike creates a unique early-morning experience.

Other attractions in the area include the majestic structure of the Punakha Dzong and a Buddhist hilltop nunnery.

EXOTIC EXPLORATIONS

Longer itineraries and more exotic destinations are slated for Holland America Line (HAL). This year, there will be 28 per cent more cruises of 25 nights or more compared to 2019, as well as a significant 117 per cent increase in sailings for 50 nights or longer. HAL recently announced a 28-night sailing through Alaska which will allow for a much deeper dive into its remote regions. Later in 2023, a 73-day Grand Africa Voyage will sail out of Fort Lauderdale, calling at Tunisia, Egypt, Tanzania and Madagascar. In October, HAL is sailing from San Diego to Sydney over 34 days, a journey that will take in Hawaii and the South Pacific.

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F GRANDEST of THEM ALL REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES

The world’s most luxurious fleet is now even more luxurious, with Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ Seven Seas Grandeur launching this November, writes Tallis Boerne Marcus.

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or almost 30 years, Regent Seven Seas Cruises has built a reputation for delivering unrivalled luxurious experiences to discerning guests sailing the high seas.

The luxury line has refined and elevated its service, design, furnishings and all-balcony suites taking them to the next level with Seven Seas Grandeur.

With just 746 guests on board, the vessel will boast one of the highest staff-to-guest ratios of any ship. You will be enthralled by the sheer space, unparalleled service, exceptional cuisine and breathtaking experiences from the moment you step aboard. It’s Regent’s most luxurious offering yet. / Luxe suites On Seven Seas Grandeur you can expect a suite of top-tobottom luxury. In the Regent Suite you will witness lavish accommodation at its best with an in-suite spa retreat, a 120 sq m private balcony graced with a Treesse Minipool, two magnificent bedrooms, three walk-in wardrobes and a spacious living room spread over almost 300 sq m. A personal butler will tend to your every whim and fancy, and you’ll have access to a private dining room for 12 guests, daily canapes and a personalised bar. As the line says: It is the Most Exclusive Address at Sea. For something a little more modest but still suitably luxurious, the Grandeur Suite offers an in-suite caviar

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service and a full-liquor bar and a welcome bottle of Veuve Clicquot. All accommodations include in-suite minibars and unlimited wi-fi. A valet laundry service is available for all guests, with butler service for Penthouse Suites and above.

No matter which suite you choose on Seven Seas Grandeur, the same exceptional standards of design and comfort apply – and they all feature a lavishly furnished private balcony, marble bathrooms and fluffy bathrobes. Nothing has been left to chance. / Fine dining On Regent Seven Seas Cruises, all dining, including specialty and room service, and unlimited premium beverages are included. Start the day with views of the ocean at La Veranda, with a made-to-order omelette or a selection from the hot carving stations. Seven Seas Grandeur will be home to the line’s Compass Rose, the largest specialty restaurant at sea, where you can design your own entree among the gorgeous ornamentation of the room.

Nestle in and admire the chic decor of Chartreuse, where you can sample contemporary takes on classic French dishes. There’s also the meticulously prepared Pan-Asian dishes at Pacific Rim, al fresco barbecue dining at Pool Grill and all the mouth-watering filet mignon and perfect porterhouse you could dream of at Prime 7. / What’s on board While unlimited shore excursions are included, there are plenty of enticing ways to spend your time aboard Seven Seas Grandeur, whether you’re taking a dip in one of the infinity-edge plunge pools, practising at the golf net or taking a class at the Culinary Arts Kitchen.

Come night-time, you can take your pick of the venues, whether you’re in the mood for the Connoisseur Club with its plump leather armchairs and elegant artworks, live music at the Observation Lounge, or cocktails at the Grandeur Lounge. You can also attend a show at the Constellation Theatre or head to the casino. / Stay well You can expect state-of-the-art equipment on board, with Pilates, yoga and aerobics classes run by experts and spin bikes, weights, treadmills and Technogym machines available so guests can stay in shape while at sea. You can also keep active at the running track.

In the spa and wellness centre, you can expect complete luxury treatments to refresh, restore and reinvigorate guests. CT Cruise&Travel

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The Fabergé egg

What’s on board?

Clockwise, from above: The Regent Suite’s lounge; Compass Rose restaurant; French dining at Chartreuse; the glamorous Observation Lounge; the Regent Suite Master Bedroom.

Perhaps the pinnacle of luxury on board comes in the surprising form of a custom Fabergé egg, part of a multimillion-dollar art collection. Iconic royal jeweller Fabergé has partnered with Regent to create not just a masterpiece in craftsmanship, but a symbol for the cruise line’s spirit, elegance and history.

Named “Journey in Jewels” and deriving inspiration from the Fabergé Winter Egg from 1913, Seven Seas Grandeur’s new prized jewel will be the result of 48 months of meticulous handcrafting. The design was done by Fabergé’s head of design, Liisa Tallgren, with a team of specialised artisans in England working to bring it to life.

The bespoke artwork is 18 centimetres tall and hoisted upon a three-tiered base that conceals the egg’s opening mechanism. The piece’s seven scrupulous blades, representing the seven seas of the world, aim to inspire guests throughout their voyage.

Details of the egg’s interior will only be released as part of the ceremonial proceedings when Seven Seas Grandeur is christened.

Already known for its impressive collections of art, with original Picassos and Chagalls already calling Regent ships home, “Journey in Jewels” marks an even further elevation of the Regent brand.

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Upfront

FLIGHT STATUS It’s the return of

excess, with Etihad revealing it will bring back its luxury first-class cabins, The Residence and The Apartment. The airline has ambitious plans to restore its A380s which were grounded in the pandemic and initially plans to fly between Abu Dhabi and Heathrow. And starting in April, Etihad will fly the Abu Dhabi-New York route twice daily. The highly coveted Residence includes a three-room apartment with a private bathroom with shower, a double bed and butler and chef service. The Residence has the highest airfare in the industry with pre-pandemic prices starting at US$20,000.

The Apartments are studio flats set across a single aisle so guests can have their own living space complete with a leather lounge chair. There is a flatbed and a 24-inch swivelling LCD TV.

Champagne tastes

OUT OF AFRICA

S

panning over seven African countries and 22 days, Abercrombie & Kent’s impressive private jet tours take in the monuments of ancient Egypt, the wildlife of the Serengeti and the vanishing mountain gorillas of Rwanda. On a special chartered Boeing 757 with lie-flat seats, there is an executive chef and physician on board and in-flight internet access. “We’ve been planning safaris for more than 60 years and this is the most comprehensive African journey we’ve ever offered,” said A&K Founder, Co-Chairman and CEO Geoffrey Kent. The trip includes experiences such as riding camels through the Sahara dunes and even attending a Voodoo ceremony in West Africa. But there is a hefty price tag for this unique holiday. Fares start from AU$189,500 per person.

At the forefront of food and beverage, Oceania Cruises’ new ship, Vista, will showcase impressive bars and mixology offerings. But the most delectable new addition is the Moët & Chandon Champagne Experience. The three-course pairing extravaganza features rare vintages from the luxury Champagne brand. For instance, start with a Mediterranean sea bass tartare accompanied by the mature 2013 Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage Brut, followed by a duck foie gras terrine paired with the silky Moët & Chandon Nectar Imperial Champagne. The experience concludes with a cured beef tenderloin coupled with the elegant and refined Moët & Chandon Imperial Rose Champagne.

Also returning is the signature Dom Pérignon Experience which will be part of the intimate dining venue, Privée.

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Upfront

Crystal is back

And Teresa Ooi, who last sailed with the line in 2019, couldn’t be happier.

A

lmost a year to the day when the most-awarded luxury cruise line was unceremoniously placed in the hands of administrators and abandoned by Genting Hong Kong, new owners Abercrombie & Kent have announced the two ships, Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony, are back – refurbished, restyled and refreshed.

There are larger suites and fewer passengers. New itineraries, including Australia. And, in a move that looks like getting the band back together, many of the staff have been rehired. It’s a good thing since many of them were the backbone of the line’s fearsome reputation for great service and more than two decades of awards.

Ironically, when I last sailed on Crystal Symphony in April 2019, she was also newly refurbished. “Crystal is reborn”, declared the line’s president, Jack Anderson, this week – he, incidentally, also served as president when Crystal Cruises dissolved its operations

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Itineraries

• Crystal Serenity Crystal Serenity will make its triumphant return to the seas with a July 31 sailing over 12 nights from Marseille to Lisbon, commencing a path that will take it through Northern Europe, Iceland, Canada and the Caribbean.

This will position it to kick off a huge 2024 world cruise, which will start either out of Los Angeles or Miami with a journey through the Panama Canal included.

• Crystal Symphony Crystal Symphony will get back to sailing on September 1, 2023, with a seven-night Athens to Istanbul cruise.

After some sailing in the Mediterranean, Symphony will excitingly then reposition and head for Asia, Australia and New Zealand via the Suez Canal. Symphony will first touchdown on Australian shores on December 6 after a 15-night Singapore to Perth cruise, which departs November 21. Then there is a host of further local sailings before Symphony moves back to Asia, including a 30-night Sydney to Bali voyage.

in February last year. Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony have now been “reimagined and enhancements made to every part of our guess’ journey”, he added.

Looking at photographs of the “revitalised” suites today, the names may have changed, the spaces may be larger, but they look eerily familiar. As a plastic surgeon would say: “The bones are there, all you need are some tweaks, tucks, and lifts.”

The old Crystal ships had six restaurants and six bars. The “new” Symphony and Serenity will have nine restaurants and six bars.

The real test will come when Crystal sets sail again – will it deliver on its renowned personalised service or will the crew push the bar a notch higher?

We certainly hope so. / What you’ll get Reduced occupancy and larger staterooms and suites mean you can expect an even more personalised and opulent experience on board Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony. Capacity will be reduced on Crystal Serenity from 980 to 740 and on Crystal Symphony from 848 to 606, making Crystal Cruises’ return one marked by extra attentive service and more space at sea.

Most of the rooms will be refurbished, with brandnew Italian marble finishings and fine cotton linens awaiting guests. If you’ve sailed with Crystal before you won’t be returning to strangers, with the return of many captains already announced and news on the return of further crew soon to come.

The lower capacity is also allowing a revamp of the ship’s spaces, not only are familiar favourites such as Palm Court, Le Bistro, the theatre, show lounge and Connoisseurs Club sticking around, but you can also expect exciting changes such as the return of Crystal Symphony’s nightclub. The courts will now play host to both paddle tennis and pickleball, and both the spa and gym have also been renovated.

You can also expect the off-ship portions of your cruise to be more Bring out the expertly curated than ever, with Crystal Crystal to team up with new owner Clockwise, from Abercrombie & Kent and its 60 left: Aquamarine years of land travel experience to Suite; Sapphire design pre- and post-cruise land Ocean View programs and shore excursions Suite; Crystal that are sure to impress. CT Serenity.

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©2023 Celebrity Cruises Inc. Ships’ registry: Malta and Ecuador. All Rights Reserved.

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Oceania Cruises’

Oriental odyssey

OCEANIA CRUISES

Oceania Cruises returns to Asia, discovering the delights of places like South Korea, Vietnam and China. Teresa Ooi reports.

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t is not often you get the chance to explore the onceforbidden corners of Asia and immerse yourself in the allure of Yangon, the off-the-beaten attractions of remote Ishigaki Island in Japan and the former Imperial City of Hue on Vietnam’s Perfume River.

The world’s leading culinary and destination-focused line, Oceania Cruises, will transport you to the mystical East and spoil you with captivating voyages on its new Asian itineraries in 2023-2024.

And not only that, but you will also be immersed in the line’s newly reimagined Riviera, as she sails her inaugural season in Asia through some of the most beguiling destinations across Arabia, India, Japan, Vietnam, China, South Korea, Malaysia and the Philippines.

Riviera’s new season showcases 25 unique voyages ranging from 10 to 82 days, while her sister ships, Regatta and Nautica, will expand their offerings in the South Pacific, with more opportunities to rediscover closer-to-home destinations in Australia, New Zealand and French Polynesia.

The new sailings will nearly double the line’s voyages to 121 unique itineraries across Riviera, Regatta, Insignia and Nautica, cementing Oceania Cruises as the leading culinaryand-destination cruise line in Asia.

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Itineraries

Here’s a summary of the bespoke voyages: • A 12-day Land of the Rising Sun roundtrip from Tokyo onboard the meticulously, re-inspired Riviera, departing in March and April 2024, calling at Kagoshima, Nagasaki, Beppu, Hiroshima and overnight in Kyoto.

• An expansive, 72-day Epic Eastern Explorer onboard Riviera, departing January 2024 sailing from Mumbai to Tokyo. There will be an overnight in Male in the Maldives, Colombo in Sri Lanka, Singapore, Hanoi, Shanghai, Ho Chi Minh, Seoul, Kyoto and Tokyo, plus two-night stays in Yangon, Bangkok and Hong Kong.

• A 34-day Constellation of Islands itinerary from Singapore to Papeete, Tahiti onboard Nautica departing late 2023 with overnight calls at Bali and Bora Bora, plus visits to Papeete, Darwin, Cairns and Suva.

• A 14-day Empires of Asia voyage on board Regatta sailing from Tokyo to Hong Kong in late October this year, with overnight calls in Kyoto, Shanghai and Hong Kong, plus visits to Taipei, Kaohsiung and the Japanese ports of Kagoshima and Hiroshima.

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Amazing Asia on Oceania Cruises

Clockwise, from left: Shwedagon Pagoda, Yangon, Myanmar; Riviera’s Penthouse Suite; and its Lalique Grand Staircase; Riviera will cruise Asia in 2024.

Last year, Riviera had a major refurbishment and every stateroom and suite was restyled with bespoke furnishings and Italian-marble bathrooms, while public areas were updated with a refreshed colour palette, luxury soft furnishings and sleek leather armchairs. Since the upgrade, sales for Riviera have broken records.

Oceania Cruises’ President Frank A. Del Rio says: “Riviera’s reinspiration has brought our luxurious product to new heights and the expansion of our Exotics 2023-2024 season means even more of our guests have the opportunity to explore one of the most intriguing corners of the globe. The decision to move Riviera to Asia was easy: demand for our Exotics collection is very strong with our welltravelled guests longing to visit remote, wondrous destinations for off-the-beaten-path experiences.”

From the Great Wall of China and Bangkok’s Grand Palace to Kyoto’s sacred temples and gardens, the sights of Asia are filled with wonderment. The futuristic, neon-lit streets of Tokyo and Hong Kong stand in sharp contrast to the pagodas and joss-stick aroma of temples. This is the Far East’s intriguing blend of old and new.

Riviera will sail 25 voyages ranging from 10 to 82 days in length, and offering a raft of destination-rich experiences such as Cochin in India; Yangon in Myanmar; Busan in South Korea; and Phuket or Bangkok in Thailand.

For the first time, Regatta and Nautica boast amazing journeys across the South Pacific and French Polynesia with more than 20 voyages ranging from 10 to 41 days to some of the most eclectic ports including Tahiti, Bora Bora, Moorea, Rangiroa and Raiatea, with Regatta sailing a return journey to Australia and New Zealand and Nautica cruising through Arabia, India and Southeast Asia.

These spectacular sailings will reveal some of the world’s most amazing, beautiful and colourful destinations, allowing guests to discover littleknown islands in Polynesia in the most luxurious and immersive way possible – by sea.

As one smitten American visitor puts it: “The colours of Polynesia are an assault on your senses with every camera shot a screensaver.” CT 33

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Upfront

Shore thing

T

he Port Authority of New South Wales took out our Readers’ Choice Award 2022 for Best Cruise Port. And the organisation has made leaps and bounds in its sustainability efforts to reduce emissions and achieve net zero by 2040. “For the next two years, we will focus on progressing the shore power project for Bays Port (Glebe Island and White Bay) and creating a world-class integrated and sustainable port of the future,” says the port authority’s CEO, Phil Holliday. “The shore power project is on track for two berths, instead of one, to be ready for commissioning by the end of 2024. Work is also progressing on installing solar panels in key locations across our ports … and on several energyefficiency measures at our key sites.”

VISTA GETS A SISTER

The luxurious Oceania Vista is getting a sister.

Oceania Cruises plans to launch Allura in 2025.

The 1200-guest ship will be the eighth vessel in the fleet and will host an array of inventive dining experiences including Aquamar Kitchen and Ember, an upscale restaurant serving reimagined American classics – both will make their debut on Vista this coming May. There will also be the largest standard staterooms and a new Chef’s Studio. More details of Oceania Allura’s inaugural season will be revealed later this year, but she will sail across destinations in Europe and the Americas.

Australia’s native foods First Nations Food Companion, AU$49.99.

NICE NICÉ

Old-world glamour is returning to Nice’s historic boardwalk with a rejuvenated 19th-century architectural jewel overlooking Promenade des Anglaise. The opening of the Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel comes after a twoyear project to restore the building to its Belle Époque era glory. The 175-year-old hotel has 151 rooms including 38 suites, an Anantara Spa, a ballroom and a bar offering 360-degree views. The opulent rooftop restaurant, SEEN by Olivier, offers contemporary Mediterranean fare from Portuguese chef Olivier da Costa. He will present Niçoise specialties showcasing local ingredients, such as sea urchins and oysters, as well as truffles from the nearby village of Le Rouret. The hotel will also offer a full-day ‘In the Footsteps of Coco Chanel’ tour.

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24/2/2023 5:29 pm

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24/2/2023 1:12 pm

Upfront

Some of the highlight starts of 2023 include the last of the Celebrity Edge class of vessels as well as the second Prima class ship from Norwegian Cruise Line. The luxury space will see some beautiful ships set sail, such as Silver Nova and Oceania Vista, while Seabourn Pursuit will launch in the expedition space. And Riverside Mozart will emerge under new ownership with fabulous itineraries on Europe’s rivers. Take a look at the new launches for 2023.

Luxury & Small Ships

/ Oceania’s first in a decade Oceania Vista is the first of the line’s Allura Class, which will have a range of exclusive restaurants and features.

Guests will find new dining venues on board including Ember, which serves American cuisine, and Aquamar Kitchen, which offers healthy dishes. For solo travellers, more balcony cabins will be dedicated to cruisers who want their own space. In the higher level of cabins, the Vista and Owner’s suites will be adorned in Ralph Lauren Home décor and include 24-hour butler service. The ship is slated to launch in April 2023.

Class of

2023 It’s a big year for cruise ship launches with a throng of new premium and contemporary ships, but there is also a massive line-up of luxury vessels, writes Bernadette Chua.

emissions-free in port. Silver Nova will feature the line’s acclaimed S.A.L.T. culinary program, eight bars and a pool on the side of the ship. / Saturn circles the globe The newest ship from Viking Cruises, Viking Saturn, shows the continuing success of the line. The 930-passenger vessel has just launched in Los Angeles and the ship will have the same features as its sister ships. Part of the Viking package are the included specialty dining, wine and beer at lunch and dinner, and at least one shore excursion in every port. The ship has a thermal spa and does not accept passengers under 18.

And true to Viking’s ethos, the ship is designed for those who love learning and enrichment on their holiday.

/ The first of the Nova Class Silver Nova will launch in the Northern Hemisphere’s summer. The ship will accommodate 728 passengers, making it the biggest ship for Silversea, and will also have the line’s first hybrid technology – the goal is to be 36

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24/2/2023 5:27 pm

Adventure Ahoy

/ Explora Journeys forth MSC Cruises has ventured into the luxury space with a brand-new company called Explora Journeys. The first ship from the line, Explora 1, will be launched in July 2023. The 922-passenger ship will have nine dining experiences and cabins starting at a generous 35 square metres. The outdoor space will feature 64 private pool cabanas across three outdoor pools, and there will be a fourth pool with a retractable glass roof for all-weather swimming. / Second Seabourn explorer Coming in September 2023, Seabourn Pursuit is the sister expedition ship to Seabourn Venture, which launched late last year. Combining the best of luxury with the rough terrain of cruise destinations like Antarctica, the PC6 Polar Class vessel will be able to cut through even the thickest of ice shelves to discover untouched regions. The ship will also feature two submarines as well as Zodiacs and kayaks. Like on Seabourn Venture, naturalists and expedition guides will give daily lectures and briefings and run enrichment programs in the Expedition Lounge.

Big is Beautiful

/ Last of the Edge class Celebrity Ascent will debut in December 2023, making her the last of the popular Edge-class ships from Celebrity Cruises.

On board, cruisers will marvel at the cantilevered Magic Carpet, a moveable deck that triples into a restaurant and bar as well as an embarkation area. For solo travellers, there are infinite balconies in the ship’s single cabins. In an overhaul of the suites, the Edge Villas will have private plunge pools. / Viva la Viva Norwegian Viva comes with a larger Haven area and, like on her sister ship, Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) will roll out popular activities such as two freefall-drop dry slides and a bigger and better go-kart racetrack that winds around the ship’s funnel. Like previous Havens on the NCL fleet, the area will have a private pool, sundeck, restaurants and bars, but it will be at the rear of the ship, making Viva’s Haven feel more exclusive. / Three Virgins are not a crowd Sir Richard Brandon’s fun-loving cruise line Virgin Voyages will be releasing its Cruise&Travel

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third adults-only ship in 2023. Like with Scarlet Lady and Valiant Lady, we’ll see all the bells and whistles on Resilient Lady. Think fun parties, great food offerings and a big focus on health and wellness. Resilient Lady will be heading Down Under and homeporting in Melbourne for the Australian summer.

River Runs

/ Mozart lives again There has been great excitement in luxury river cruising since the muchloved Crystal Mozart, laid up since Crystal Cruises folded in January 2022, was acquired by German hotel group Seaside Collection. The newly renamed Riverside Mozart, which is larger than standard riverboats but only carries 154 guests, comes with a spacious spa and four restaurants, one of which will charge a whopping €295 (about AU$450) for a wine-paired tasting menu. Riverside Mozart will sail the Danube, offering multiple combinations of cruises ranging from three to 11 nights. While the double-width vessel can’t squeeze through the locks of the Rhine-Main-Danube canal, it can travel as far as Passau heading upstream on the Danube, and through the dramatic Iron Gates Gorge heading downstream.

Some of the optional excursions include hot-air ballooning over Budapest and a helicopter tour of Austria’s lush, castle- and vineyard-filled Wachau Valley. / The Travelmarvel trio OK, so these three “contemporary” riverships from Travelmarvel, Polaris, Capella and Vega, set sail in 2022, but Australian travellers were still scarce in Europe then, so it’s worth reminding yourself just how good they are. Cabins are compact (from 14.2 square metres) but stylishly furnished, while highlights in the public spaces include the lovely Alfresco Lounge, forward of the True

North lounge (the main bar). In addition to the Constellations Restaurant, there’s an Irish-themed pub, McGeary’s Bar. As with all Travelmarvel cruises, wine is included with meals and there are complimentary excursions in most ports, as well as a fleet of bicycles.

New ships to watch

Clockwise, from main: Explora I; Riverside Mozart; lounge bar on Travelmarvel’s riverships; Viking Osiris; Seabourn Pursuit; and Oceania Vista.

/ Vikings in Egypt Viking will launch a second new build, Viking Aton, on the Nile in August – a sister to Viking Osiris, which set sail in 2022. The ship is purpose-built to navigate the Nile and offers the clean, Scandi-chic vibe for which Viking is known. With only 82 guests on board, there should be an intimate atmosphere, and floor-to-ceiling windows in the public spaces promise fabulous views of the passing scenery. There’s a pool on the Sun Deck – welcome in the heat of Egypt – and a version of Viking’s popular indoor-outdoor space, the Aquavit Terrace. The 11-night Pharaohs and Pyramids itinerary, round-trip from Cairo, gives you three nights in the capital pre-cruise and one afterwards – plenty of time to explore the city’s fascinating museums. CT

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24/2/2023 5:27 pm

Upfront

KONICHIWA PRINCESS

Princess has marked its return to the Land of the Rising Sun after the Japanese government announced it will permit international ships to operate in local waters again. The line has earmarked the Diamond Princess to home port in Tokyo. This will be the first time passengers embarking on the Diamond Princess will be able to experience MedallionClass, the wearable device that enables guests to use the technology to access many onboard services and amenities. Diamond Princess, which was built in Japan, will resume services on March 15 with a nine-day round-trip sailing.

The recently refurbished ship will call at 38 destinations in four countries.

Star of the slopes ERL x Salomon skis, AU$1617.

CORAL EXPEDITIONS’ FORAY INTO ANTARCTICA

Capella comes to Sydney

Coral Expeditions will launch a new voyage to the subantarctic, set to depart on January 31, 2024, on board Coral Geographer. A special call on the two-week cruise will be at Macquarie Island, which sits halfway between Tasmania and Antarctica. Here, guests can go on guided walks and gaze over the truly special biodiversity and landscape.

Another highlight is visiting the world’s loneliest tree.

Known as the Sitka Spruce, this tree stands alone with the closest tree more than 200 kilometres away. Beyond this, as you journey around Auckland Island, Campbell Island and Macquarie Island and more, expect to spot all sorts of elusive mammals and rare seabirds.

S

ydney’s glorious sandstone Department of Education buildings on Bridge Street will soon be opened to the public as the luxurious Capella Sydney. Spanning over eight levels, the 192 guestroom and suite hotel is within footsteps of the harbour foreshore, as well as the Opera House and Harbour Bridge. One of Capella’s dining experiences, Brasserie 1930, will feature modern classics and an extensive wine list. Highlighting small-batch farmers and growers, the menu celebrates the best in Australian produce, with cooking methods drawing upon age-old techniques such as curing, fermenting and pickling. Named in honour of George McRae, the building’s original architect, the McRae Bar, which overlooks Loftus Street, is a modern rendition of a Victorian-era drinking den and offers an elegant cocktail experience with late-1800s touches.

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BETTER BY DESIGN. IT JUST DOESN’T GET ANY SUITER. Onboard Avalon Waterways® Suite fleet of ships, guests enjoy the perfect blend of elegance and ease – where little touches are bold, gestures are grand and the views even grander.

There’s a reason our ships are the critics’ darlings and favourites among our most discerning guests.

Our boutique-hotel-inspired Panorama SuitesSM feature the industry’s only Open-Air BalconiesSM with the widest-opening windows in cruising and decadent Comfort Collection bedsSM that face the ever-changing scenery.

Providing wider openings for the wide-eyed, Avalon Waterways innovative Open-Air Balconies were designed with our guests’ views in mind. A Panorama Suite highlight on the Suite Ships of Avalon, are the wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling windows that open 7-feet wide in Europe and 11-feet wide in Southeast Asia … Wider than any other balconies in the industry.

Visit AvalonWaterways.com.au, call 1300 230 234 or see your travel agent CT05_038_039_Upfront_Avalon.indd 39

24/2/2023 5:17 pm

Collaboration

CELEBRITY CRUISES

Cream of the crop Tallis Boerne Marcus discovers the tempting range

of restaurants on board Celebrity Cruises.

Dining on the Edge

Clockwise, from above: The Magic Carpet; Eden Restaurant; sea bass crudo, Raw on 5.

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P

eople can have very different preferences when they cruise – whether it’s about the destinations, the ship, the onboard experience or the people.

On a Celebrity Cruises voyage, everything is bundled together to create the best cruise experience possible, especially in its cuisine and immersive destination visits. This is where the premium cruise line shines above the others.

Celebrity Edge, the first ship in the new Edge series for Celebrity Cruises, is overflowing with culinary options and innovative dining experiences. Guests will have 29 food and beverage experiences to choose from on board, with Michelin-starred chefs coming together to curate unique, memorable and personalised dining experiences. All the restaurants design their food and wine menus around the nature of the destinations visited.

If you’re a guest of The Retreat, you’ll have exclusive access to renowned Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud’s restaurant, Luminae.

Here, you will taste the likes of chilled carrot and ginger velouté, Moroccan chicken tagine with saffron couscous and, to top it off, raspberry pistachio vacherin.

Exclusive for AquaClass guests is Blu, offering spa-inspired cuisine with a menu

by Celebrity Cruises Vice President, Food and Beverage Operations and Michelinstarred chef Cornelius Gallagher. Simple dishes such as an Atlantic salmon fillet or New York strip steak are taken to the next level with locally sourced ingredients.

Sushi chef Yoshikazu Okada’s menu exemplifies the flavours of Japan, wherever you are cruising in the world. The hand-made sushi rolls and nigiri are beautifully displayed at Raw on 5 and paired with a stellar list of imported sakes and beers.

Edge series ships feature an open kitchen in Eden Restaurant where you can watch seasoned chefs put the finishing touches on each dish, before you enjoy the plated finale with an award-winning wine or cocktail. The design of the restaurant is an attraction in itself, set amongst the three-storey indoor Wonderland that serves to guide you through your culinary journey for the night.

The Magic Carpet becomes an extraordinary venue high in the sky at the very top of the ship with mouth-watering experiences such as Dinner on the Edge, while on Deck 5 it serves as an unforgettable, open-air dining experience.

The ships’ dedicated team of beverage experts have created robust wine, cocktail and non-alcoholic drinks menus that complement both the dishes and the theme of each bar and restaurant. You’ll find sommeliers in every restaurant, ensuring you sample from the most awarded wine collection at sea – the line has won the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for 19 consecutive years. You can also sip cocktail creations curated by expert mixologists who draw inspiration from the spectacular locations visited.

The Sunset Bar is a favourite for sundowners.

To explore Celebrity’s onboard experience as you cruise through beautiful destinations in Europe, hop aboard for the Italy, France and Spain seven-night sailing on Celebrity Edge, starting from $1799 per person, departing 27 May 2023. Across a magical week, you’ll tick off Barcelona, Cannes, Portofino, Florence, Rome and Ajaccio, with amazing food on board to fuel your days of exploring.

Celebrity Edge will also make her way Down Under for the very first time on 9 December 2023. To book, visit celebrity.com/au or see your preferred travel advisor. CT Cruise &Travel

27/2/2023 3:04 pm

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24/2/2023 5:14 pm

Upfront

A CLEAN, GREEN MEAN MACHINE C

aptain Stanislas Devorsine is in full flight, describing the “mind-blowing performance” of his ship – the world’s first luxury icebreaker, Le Commandant Charcot.

She can plough through 2.4 metres of ice at over two knots and smash ice flows at both ends: her bow crushes ice under the hull, while her Azipod propellers chew it up travelling in reverse.

She has already helped the RRS Sir David Attenborough, a British polar research vessel, in digging a three-nautical-mile channel through the ice in just three hours by sailing backwards.

She has reached the North Pole – something only 10 other ships have ever achieved. All, this since her launch in 2021, says the captain, who was part of the team that helped design her.

The Ponant expedition ship does all of this while providing guests with a true luxury experience – from fine dining at three restaurants, producing food created by a Michelin-starred chef, to a magnificent spa and thermal pools from which you can view the ice with a glass of bubbles and caviar.

She carries up to 245 guests in 123 chic staterooms. The owner’s suite – in Ponant parlance the Suite de l’Armateur – on Deck 8 is 115 square metres, with a panoramic terrace of 186 square metres.

She also has the greenest credentials around: her 50 tonnes of batteries mean she can sail with zero emissions for 1-2 hours. The captain is proud of the science, too, with research partnerships all over the planet.

Captain Devorsine is talking during a brief visit to Christchurch, New Zealand before returning to the Antarctic.

Sydney doctors Anthony and Karen Leung are on board for their sixth Ponant cruise – this time, a $100,000, 27-day extravaganza from Christchurch, New Zealand to Ushuaia, Argentina… via the White Continent of Antarctica.

The intrepid pair have already done the Northwest Passage, the North Pole, Alaska and the Kimberley. And they are big fans of Le

Commandant Charcot. Dr Leung describes the experiences of sailing on the ice as “spectacular”.

“I chose this voyage because this new route has not been offered by any other cruise company in a luxurious icebreaker – and we are able to reach places in Antarctica that no other living beings have been to,” he tells Cruise & Travel.

A vessel that combines incredible luxury with an expedition heritage is rare. But she is proving to be a hit.

With Antarctica facing a season where more than 90 ships will visit this year, Ponant sees getting off the beaten track as the way of the future.

Ponant APAC chair Sarina Bratton said the first two months of 2023 had already broken records. Antarctica and our own Kimberley region are the top places where Australian adventure-seekers want to sail.

Like the Leungs, Australians are determined to shrug off the pandemic years and do what they’ve dreamed of while they can. And do it in luxury.

Ms Bratton said the Australian office, opened eight years ago, now contributes a fifth of the global revenue for the 13-ship line. This year is on track for another record. CT

Luxury on ice

Clockwise, from above: Le Commandant Charcot; Capt.

Stanislas Devorsine; on board the ship.

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27/2/2023 10:24 am

From $8,690 per person PLUS Welcome Offer - SAVE $400 per person when you book your first Paul Gauguin voyage*

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24/2/2023 5:06 pm

Collaboration EMERALD CRUISES

EMERALD AZZURRA ON THE MED

Enjoy delicious buffet breakfasts and lunches, and fine à la carte dining in the evening with a choice of locally inspired cuisine, classics like grilled salmon or juicy steaks, and generous share plates.

R

A new era of luxury yacht cruising has dawned with the recent launch of Emerald Cruises’ latest innovation, Emerald Azzurra.

U

ntil now, Emerald Cruises has been known for its award-winning river cruise collection, offering exceptional value cruising in Europe and Southeast Asia. Since the March 2022 launch of Emerald Azzurra, a new era of luxury yacht cruising has dawned.

While some cruise lines focus on building mega-liners, Emerald Cruises specialises in stylish, small-ship cruising. Emerald Azzurra is the first of two luxury yachts, with identical sister yacht Emerald Sakara set to debut in 2023.

Gleaming white against the brilliant blue skies of the sparkling Mediterranean, the head-turning design resembles a spectacular luxury yacht.

With a maximum of just 100 guests on board, these luxury yachts are small enough to dock within reach of fascinating local historical and cultural sites.

In Croatia, the yacht lands guests in the heart of some of the Mediterranean’s oldest towns, where just a short stroll leads to a guided tour of Rovinj Old Town or time in Zadar listening to the unique music of the Sea Organ.

At 110 metres long, Emerald Azzurra is large enough to ensure a supremely comfortable cruise with all the amenities you could wish for. La Cucina is the main restaurant with the option to dine indoors or alfresco on the Terrace.

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New luxury on Emerald Cruises

Clockwise, from above: The Sky Bar aboard Emerald Azzurra; the yacht’s Observation Lounge; watersports from the Marina Platform.

elaxed luxury is the vibe on board. The Amici Bar & Lounge is a welcoming space with comfortable low sofas, think velvets and satins, and marble coffee tables. The bar serves a wide range of cocktails and beers, and is the place to meet fellow guests and swap stories of the day’s adventures, while the Observation Lounge is a cosy space in which to play board games or gaze on the far-reaching views.

The Sky Deck, the top deck, features the Sky Bar. With 360-degree views, it’s the ultimate spot for unwinding with a sundowner and taking in every angle of the breathtaking scenery, such as when cruising into Kotor Bay in Montenegro.

The Spa offers indulgent massage and spa treatments and a wellness program with complimentary infra-red sauna, yoga and Pilates classes. And, of course, there’s a well-equipped gym.

Top tip: Do make time for a quick workout so you can enjoy the guilt-free desserts every day.

All meals are included – complimentary wine and beer is served with lunch and dinner – along with tipping and gratuities, and Wi-Fi. A number of guided tours are included on each itinerary.

DiscoverMORE optional tours are also available for guests to tailor the cruise to their own interests.

EmeraldPLUS cultural experiences are also included. Active guests will love the included EmeraldACTIVE program, where hikes, bike tours and paddleboarding are available. There are even GoCycle ebikes available for use in ports. Emerald Cruises has truly thought of everything.

E

merald Azzurra is custom-designed for warmwater coastal cruising. The luxury yacht offers a number of eight-day cruises, many of which can be combined into longer 15-day cruises. Epic cruises of 19 days or longer are also available on selected dates.

Popular destinations include the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. And new for 2023 are Caribbean cruises.

Want to see more about Emerald Cruises luxury yachting? Visit and watch escape.com.au/EscapeTo. This interactive digital TV program has a 16-minute episode completely dedicated to Emerald Cruises 8 Day French & Italian Rivieras with Corsica. Cruise from $6,595 per person for travel in 2024. CT Cruise &Travel

24/2/2023 3:45 pm

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8 Day Ionian Sea Adventure luxury yacht cruise starts from only $6,585 per person*

For more information visit emeraldcruises.com.au or call 1300 286 110 *Conditions apply. For FULL conditions refer to emeraldcruises.com.au. All prices based on per person twin share, cruise only. Valid on new bookings only.

Cruise from $6,585 per person twin share based on E04M 07/09/24 departure in D Category Stateroom. Prices, Dates, Price, Availability subject to change and correct as of 03/02/23. Emerald Cruises (a division of Scenic Tours Pty Ltd). Booking code EVMA185.

EVMA184 & EVMA185 ECAU Cruise CT05_044_045_Emerald.indd 45 and Travel Magazine.indd 1

7/2/2023 3:33 24/2/2023 3:40 pm

You’ll love cruising Australia 7 nights from $999 per person twin share*

Contact your travel agent | 1300 385 631 | princess.com * Fares as per person, in AUD, in complete twin accommodation based on the lead interior stateroom category at time of publication, inclusive of all discounts, taxes, fees and port expenses (which are subject to change). Supplements apply for other stateroom categories. Fares based on 7-Day Tasmania round trip from Sydney departing 20/11/23. Higher fares may apply to other departure dates. Princess Cruises has set aside a reasonable number of staterooms which are available at these fares. Once these staterooms are sold, fares may vary. Valid for new bookings and not combinable with any other offer. All offers are subject to availability. Princess Standard fare is the cruise fare only without any inclusions. To be read in conjunction with the Passage Contract available at princess.com/legal/passage_contract which passengers will be bound by. A credit card surcharge of 1.1% for Visa and Mastercard and 2.75% for AMEX, and a 1.0% surcharge for PayPal will apply to direct bookings made through our website or call centre. No surcharges apply to debit cards. Travel agents may charge additional fees – check with your travel agent. Carnival plc trading as Princess Cruises ABN 23 107 998 443.

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Oceans 50 Viking’s expedition | 56 Norwegian Spirit | 74 Azamara in NZ

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Paul Gauguin in the South Pacific

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27/2/2023 10:28 am

Oceans

T

he arrival of Polar Class 6 vessels from Ponant, Scenic and Seabourn signal one common thing among cruisers – they want to go where no man has gone before. Over the last two years, the luxury sector has seen a massive uptick in travellers upgrading and splurging on holidays as part of the ‘revenge spending’ campaign.

So, while luxury might still be a force to be reckoned with, there is another massive trend we are seeing with the well-seasoned cruiser – expedition cruising. According to Virtuoso, expedition cruising in 2022, was up 206 per cent on 2019 levels.

Fiona Dalton, Virtuoso’s GM of Australia & New Zealand, says, “Affluent travellers are increasingly seeking access to highly curated and bespoke experiential opportunities when cruising.

“Travellers can explore the far reaches of the Antarctic, visit remote communities along Greenland’s west coast that are inaccessible by road, or cruise the Cape Verde archipelago, off the west coast of Africa, traversing Fogo’s lava landscapes and the dunes of stark Boa Vista. Expedition cruising comes in many shapes and sizes, but there is an option for every traveller type and level of drive to push beyond one’s comfort zone.”

And Virtuoso is seeing a shift in high-income travellers prioritising their big-ticket trips, no matter the price. This past Antarctic season saw more ships than ever before with a total of 100,000 tourists heading for the ice. This season’s visitors are up more than 40 per cent over the largest pre-pandemic year.

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Hey, BIG SPENDER! It’s a huge year ahead in ocean cruising and expedition cruising is leading the way.

There’s also the return of the world cruise.

Cruise &Travel

24/2/2023 4:31 pm

Sights of the world

Clockwise, from left: Hurtigruten at sea; Cape Verde; New Guinea; Mozambique; the Northern Lights; lab on board a Hurtigruten ship.

“Expedition cruising comes in many shapes and sizes, but there is an option for every traveller.”

But expedition cruisers are not just about the polar regions. Data from Virtuoso shows South Africa is coming on strong, with the region rivalling some of the most popular European countries.

Regent Seven Seas’ Seven Seas Splendor has a 67-night South American trip that visits Belize, Mexico, Guatemala, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil and more.

There is also a call to see the abundant wildlife of the Falkland Islands.

Australian small-ship cruise line Coral Expeditions’ first Islands and Atolls of Micronesia. The 25-night sailing is in partnership with Australian Geographic. Some of the highlights include taking snorkelling through 50 World War 2 shipwrecks and learning about the traditions of the Austronesian and Micronesian-speaking people.

This is also the year where we see the return of the world cruise with lines like Princess starting their seasons.

Viking’s World Voyage 1 sees 180 days at sea, visiting 37 different countries across five continents. The voyage starts in Florida before the ship makes its way through Central and South America. The ship then sails towards California stopping at Hawaii before sailing to the South Pacific. Next on the port call schedule is New Zealand and Australia before sailing through Asia. Viking finishes her jaunt in the Mediterranean and Northern Europe before disembarking passengers in New York.

For travellers, exploring Africa is a must-do both on land and sea. Oceania Cruises offers a special 33-day cruise that

calls at African destinations like Mozambique, the French Comoros, Madagascar and Seychelles. Following the sailing in the region, the ship heads to the Maldives, India, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia and more.

The Arctic is still one of the most sought-after expedition destinations, with cruisers searching for the Northern Lights, polar bears and Arctic summers. Hurtigruten has a Northern Lights guarantee where if you don’t see the natural phenomenon during the auroral season on itineraries 11 days or longer. The ship’s crew know the region inside and out and take adventurers to see the best sights and wildlife, as well as connect guests with local communities.

The fully equipped expedition team and science lab onboard will bring guests into the life of a researcher or explorer. CT

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24/2/2023 4:32 pm

Voyage

No place on Earth has more allure than Antarctica for those with an adventurous spirit. And it doesn’t disappoint those who dare to go, reports Peter Lynch.

This is not a vacation – it’s an expedition!

I

n a world filled with greenwashing gobbledygook, “travelling with purpose” is a phrase you hear a lot nowadays. But if there is one place that really brings home the perilous state of our planet and the need for change, it is Antarctica. Here, the balance of nature is a matter of life and death for so many species. It’s a vast white wilderness where you truly realise the forces climate change has unleashed – and that we humans aren’t as powerful as we like to think.

According to the treaty of 12 nations signed in 1959, Antarctica was forever to be “used for peaceful purposes only”. But today, the White Continent needs our support. Antarctica is a land in peril – superpowers Russia and China are eyeing its minerals and factory ships are stealing its vital stocks of fish and krill. And its ice is melting.

But help is at hand in the unlikely guise of travellers like us. We are here to bear witness and take the message home. I am, I hope, doing my bit.

We are on board the Viking Polaris, one of a pair of new ships from the leader in river and ocean cruising. Once again, Viking is setting a new benchmark – this time in adventure.

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Sights to behold

Main: Viking cruising in Antarctica. Above left: Wildlife-watching.

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“THIS REALLY IS A JOURNEY WITH PURPOSE. WE WANT YOU TO GO BACK TO YOUR HOMES AND TELL YOUR FRIENDS ABOUT THIS PLACE.”

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VIKING POLARIS

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“IT IS NATURE AT ITS RAWEST AND MOST PROFOUND. AND IT IS LIKE NOTHING WE HAVE EXPERIENCED.”

On board

Above right: Launching a weather balloon.

Clockwise, from top left: The Explorer Suite; Manfredi’s Italian restaurant; the spa and pool; expedition tour; the Finse Terrace.

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Our expedition leader, Marc Jansen, is welcoming us in the Aula, a panoramic auditorium inspired by the University of Oslo’s famed ceremonial hall, the former venue for the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony.

Outside is Finse Terrace, where you can sit around a brazier and have drinks.

“We want to turn you into advocates and ambassadors,” he declares. “This really is a journey with purpose. We want you to go back to your homes and tell your friends about this place, and remind everyone that it needs to stay free from interference.”

The lounge is one of an array of firsts on this ship. Below us, a pair of submarines, a speed boat powered by two jet engines made for the Finnish navy, and military Zodiacs are in the hangar awaiting us.

Some 200 Americans, Brits and Australians have made the journey across the planet to this incredible place, drawn by stories of the great explorers, bucket-list ambitions or simply a desire to experience something different. They won’t be disappointed. Jansen makes it plain that, here, Mother Nature is Queen. Schedules are all very well, but they will be abandoned in a heartbeat if a storm blows in. Captain Margrith Ettlin, Viking’s first female captain, puts it even more starkly: “This is not a vacation – it’s an expedition!”

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oon, we are all on the Windy app, watching for weather breaks that will mean our trips onto the ice will go ahead as scheduled. We are consumed by the sky, glory in sunsets over ice flows, giggle like kids at penguins swimming around our ship or falling on their bellies in the snow, stand in awe as whales breach, and are driven to tears when a leopard seal snatches a chinstrap penguin for lunch.

It is nature at its rawest and most profound. And it is like nothing most of us have experienced before. But the good news is that, unlike many of the explorers depicted in the black-andwhite historic photographs that adorn the corridors of the ship – they used horses, dogs and even their own brawn to pull their sleds – Viking Polaris conveys us to one of the world’s most inhospitable places in astonishing comfort.

Capt Ettlin is rather proud of her new charge. Just six weeks old, she flies across the Drake Passage at a racy 17 knots. The passage is notorious among seafarers and once you would have strapped yourself into your bunk for a bumpy three-day ride on a good day. Tonight, as we toast our adventure’s beginning with Viking’s included wines and beers, it’s “Drake’s Lake”. Our stabilisers are not really necessary.

“She’s a very fast ship,” the captain says at a reception in the Hide, a nifty bar in the bows of Polaris where waves break over the glass and the expedition team tell us their stories every night. Capt Ettlin brilliantly outruns the weather, taking us to Half Moon Island at temperatures of five degrees and wind speeds of 15 knots, allowing us precious hours to go ashore and see the wildlife.

Viking Polaris’s submarines, Ringo and George – yes, they are yellow, so they get Beatles’ names – are out on the water by 7am.

Zodiacs are rescheduled to take in the window – and as a result,

we get amazing experiences on land, watching the penguins build their nests for the coming breeding season.

The Hangar has a unique slide that allows us to board the speed boat inside the vessel. She is then launched down the slide and onto the water for a high-speed ride past icebergs and penguin highways. By 2pm we are underway again, outrunning 55-knot winds and a swell, sheltering next to a glacier for the night before setting off on our next adventure.

The 20-strong expedition team is keen to recruit us for citizen science projects to monitor krill and plankton, and check whales’ tails (the Happy Whale project sends pictures to universities monitoring the giant mammals’ movements, and their tail fins are like fingerprints, apparently). Polaris has labs on board that take part in serious science research – they report to NASA, and have recently published their first scientific paper (bear in mind the ship is on her fourth journey since launch).

But there is more to her – which is why we think Viking might have done for expedition what it did for ocean cruising: created a new class. Viking Polaris and Viking Octantis have blended real adventure with luxury cruising.

There are many references to the fleet that took out the Best Ocean Line award in our Readers’ Choice Awards of 2022. Great food, fantastic cabin design – but more importantly a young expedition and scientific team full of enthusiasm. Australia has quickly become Viking Expeditions’ second-biggest market.

“Antarctica is a special place and it’s such a privilege for any of us to come here, along with just one per cent of the world’s population,” says Viking Australasia MD Michelle Black.

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he Viking Polaris carries 378 guests in 189 outside staterooms with Nordic balconies. These are extraordinary – the cabin’s floor-to-ceiling windows open at the top to allow you to take in the Antarctic breeze while remaining warm and dry in your cabin. Handy binoculars allow for in-house wildlife spotting.

There’s an even more surreal experience waiting for you in the stunning Nordic Spa. You can swim in the warm waters while looking out over the ice – or sit in a sauna and look at the scenery through an open window. In case you haven’t had enough during your shore expeditions, there is a snow grotto and an ice shower.

The suites are designed for the adventurer. A big bathroom and shower, heaps of storage for those thermals and even a heated cabinet so you can dry the supplied anorak and fleece that are yours to take away (boots and waterproof trousers are provided but have to be returned).

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Concierge

No cruise has elicited so many dinner-party questions as my trip to Antarctica. So here are five of the most common queries: • Was it cold? It went below zero and at one point the ship was covered in snow. I raided my local Kathmandu and Paddy Pallin stores and bought thermals to wear under a provided fleece and outer anorak, two pairs of ski gloves, a neck gaiter (essential), thick socks and a beanie. I wore thermal underwear, jeans and Viking waterproof trousers and very good waterproof boots. I was never cold.

The ship was very toasty throughout the trip, and we dressed casually most of the time on board.

VIKING POLARIS

Expedition Central on Deck 2 is where the action is – Dr Daniel Moore and his team brief on expeditions and introduce citizen science projects, while Australian polar historian and author David McGonigal explains the peculiar stories of explorers of the past.

The extensive Living Room and Library, with floor-to-ceiling windows and an incredible stock of large-format books, has an array of nooks with look-alike open fires to curl up by. In the early evening, a pianist and cellist play classics.

The food is a huge part of the journey, with six venues including our personal Viking favourites, Manfredi’s Italian, Mamsen’s Norwegian Deli and the World Café. And drinks after dinner in the Explorer’s Lounge are a great way to swap stories and show pictures.

Adventure abounds

From top: Heading out on foot to see penguins; the onboard submarine.

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ut back to the job at hand – exploring. From the start, safety is a priority. So before we are allowed to take a submarine dive in Ringo, we need to pass a fitness test. Thankfully, I am only asked to bend my knees. Pass!

This is followed by Zodiac training. Getting in and out of these vessels – which are perfect for what the crew calls “wet landings” – just needs a bit of technique.

You shuffle along on your backside and then swing your legs over. Easy!

Before we are allowed onto the ice from the special tender dock, we vacuum our clothes and wash our boots to ensure we’re not carrying disease to the penguin colonies. Lifejackets, gloves, goggles, beanies and neck gaiters are checked by the crew before we depart.

Once aboard a Zodiac, usually helmed by one of the expedition crew – marine biologists, glaciologists, historians and ornithologists – our adventure begins. At one point we arrive on an island unexplored for more than 80 years. Ex-Royal Marine Gavin Emmerson and his team have cut an ice staircase for us to land on, and we are guided with ski sticks to where curious gentoo penguins are waiting.

Back on the ship, with our gear drying in our cabin’s warming cabinet, it’s time to exchange stories at the bar. We learned a lot about the adventures of early expeditions. How they took horses so they could eat them along the route, and how they would be holed up for weeks by the weather, existing on tinned meat or fish.

With a glass of Chilean Malbec in my hand, and my toes toasting on the (albeit digital) fireplace, I’m glad to be among today’s more comfortable adventurers. CT

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For more…

Read about our stay in Buenos Aires and a review of our Latam Airways flight on pages 110–113.

See vikingcruises. com.au.

• What was it like in the submarine?

The journey down was full of ‘Dive!

Dive! Dive!’ excitement, with safety lectures from our “captain”. There are six passengers in the sub, so it’s a tight squeeze. We photographed lots of interesting plants which got the Expedition Team very excited (they were immediately despatched to a university studying the ocean floor).

And we saw an icefish, which had a huge mouth and enormous gills.

• Do you have to be fit? You do need mobility to get in and out of the Zodiacs and climb into the submarine.

On the ice, you’ll be given ski sticks and guided where the crew feel there might be a risk of a fall. If you’ve been to the ski fields, you know what to expect. Common sense and care are all it takes.

• If you didn’t leave the ship, would it be worth going? Viking’s expedition ships are a destination in themselves, and I got as much joy and excitement standing on the deck watching whales as I did on the water or the ice.

And many lines offer cruises past the ice or Antarctica without stopping.

• Is it safe? The captain’s words were so true: “It’s not a vacation – it’s an expedition”. Mother Nature rules, and accidents happen. While we were in Antarctica another expedition suffered a fatal accident on a Zodiac and on the next trip Polaris was hit by a “rogue wave” in the Drake. But every safety precaution is taken, the experienced polar crew are right next to you and I felt in safe hands. It’s an epic adventure and worth the trip outside your comfort zone!

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24/2/2023 4:40 pm

Salomon ‘Quest Element’ men’s hiking boots, AU$279.99.

Trunk Show Antarctica

Icebreaker women’s ‘200 Oasis’ thermal top, AU$65.99.

Cartier Eyewear ‘C de Cartier’ sunnies, AU$1524.

Breitling Endurance Pro watch, AU$4990.

Marni Z Carhartt jumper, AU$870.

Burberry cashmereblend gloves, AU$353.

Holden merino-blend balaclava, AU$213.

Canon E05 DSLR camera, AU$698.

Alexander McQueen ‘Intarsia’ jumper, AU$1885.

Moncler ‘Maya 70’ down coat, AU$2780.

Floyd cabin suitcase, AU$879.

Kathmandu ‘NuYarn’ hiking socks, AU$49.98.

Jimmy Choo ‘Chike’ leather boots, AU$1681.

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27/2/2023 11:09 am

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Spirited away

Bernadette Chua was on the sailing of the Norwegian Spirit after the most extensive overhaul she’s seen on any ship.

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All smiles

Time to sail away on a Norwegian Cruise Line voyage.

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T In the Spirit

Clockwise, from above: The Observation Lounge; Owner’s Suite with Large Balcony; romantic dining on board; Italian meals at Onda; Cagney’s Steakhouse; Mandara Spa treatment room.

he oohs and aahs coming from the hundreds of passengers on board the Norwegian Spirit fell silent as the ship sailed under the Harbour Bridge.

Couples were embracing, people were waving furiously to yachties and there were plenty of smartphone cameras out to take pictures.

It was a momentous occasion with the news choppers flying overhead and TV crews on board – the arrival of Spirit marked the return of Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL), back into Australia since the start of the pandemic.

But what might not have been so apparent to the thousands of people watching the ship come in, is NCL had spent a staggering US$100 million on Norwegian Spirit – the most extensive refurbishment in any cruise line’s history. The entire ship had been gutted – new public spaces, new artwork, new carpet, new staterooms.

There are some sweet nuances you’ll be able to spot on Spirit, that pay homage to her previous life as Star Cruises’ SuperStar Gemini, a ship designed for the Asian market.

NCL has kept her maritime tradition in the Stardust

Theatre’s signs to push or pull written in Chinese, as well as a few other pieces of signage. Aside from that, the only thing the Spirit team will tell you about her time as the SuperStar Gemini is how tigers were used as entertainment in the now Stardust Theater.

We were lucky to have jumped on board in Fiji as part of a two-week cruise that started in Hawaii carrying many Americans, Brits and Europeans for a stunning itinerary traversing through French Polynesia and down towards the South Pacific.

Of those passengers, Richard Lounsbury is without a doubt one of the most seasoned NCL cruisers in the world. With 62 sailings already booked with NCL and 12 more on the way, he, like many others, articulated what we all thought of the Spirit – it is the perfect size of ship for Australian cruisers.

“I really like the Spirit, it’s a ‘right-sized’ ship. It’s large enough to have the staff, activities and entertainment to keep everyone as active (or not) as they want to be. But small enough not to feel crowded or too busy,” said Mr Lounsbury.

“We chose this itinerary to get us to Australia to visit friends. The itinerary Honolulu-Papeete-Sydney is fantastic – we have done it before. Norwegian does the same itinerary in reverse then continues to Alaska in April/May.” And while our fellow passengers had called at places like Apia in American Samoa and Bora Bora in Tahiti, our only stop on the itinerary was luscious Dravuni Island set among the clear, tropical waters of Fiji.

But we only had one mission – to experience all Spirit had to offer. Unlike her sister ships in the Bliss and Prima class, Spirit has a more docile and sophisticated atmosphere, suited to the type of clientele that loves longer cruisers and a slower pace.

Looking back at the pictures, the biggest marvel is the extent of the ship’s refurbishment. NCL has completed

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Top tips

• Ask the chefs in the Garden Cafe when they will serve Indian. As many of the executive chefs on board are from India, you’ll find a great range of curries, dahls and biriyani, enough to rival what you would find on land.

• The Local on Deck 7 is a great place to settle in for a meal after a shore excursion. American classics are on the menu with items like fish and chips and Cobb salads but don’t go past the Reuben sandwich.

• If you’re on a longer cruise, make sure you get to the pool area early. Both Spice H20 and the main pool area fill up quickly on sea days.

• Book your specialty dining before you get on the ship or as soon as you get on board. Particularly with longer sailings, you want to be able to space out the dining options to not coincide with shows and shore excursion days.

• Make use of the Pulse Fitness Centre. Even if it’s just for a walk on the treadmill, you’ll get to enjoy stunning sea views.

• Try to book an NCL cruise when there is a Free At Sea offer which includes packages for free beverages, WiFi and specialty dining, and credit for shore excursions.

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“I really like Spirit, it’s a ‘right-sized’ ship – large enough to have the staff, activities and entertainment … but small enough not to feel crowded.”

major structural changes and included new features more appropriate for a Western market. The card, writing and smoking rooms are gone to make way for a bigger fitness centre and NCL made the bold decision to remove kids’ activities like the waterslides to create more of an allure for adults.

There are 15 categories of stateroom on Spirit, ranging from an Inside Stateroom to the Owner’s Suite which comes with a balcony and separate living and dining room. The red carpets and drapes have been replaced with calming, muted tones of blue and abstract artwork depicting ocean waves.

For us mere mortals, my travel buddy (a cruise virgin) and I were assigned a lovely balcony stateroom which is available with twin beds or a king bed. There’s a desk, a sofa, a full-sized bathroom and an outdoor area designed to fit two deckchairs.

The most notable change though is the size of the wardrobe. It’s not normally a feature I would carp on about, but with plenty of drawers and hanging space, the stateroom has been carefully thought out

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NORWEGIAN SPIRIT to take into consideration guests who will be travelling from warmer climates, such as the South Pacific, to a cooler environment, such as Alaska.

As we settle into the swing of the Spirit, we take a tour to get our bearings. By day, the decks and public spaces of Spirit are brimming with people going about their different activities. By the time we joined midway through the voyage, all guests had already settled into their routine.

At 6am sharp, the band of regular runners would hit the top deck to take laps of the ship, while the gym junkies pumped iron, cycled and did their sprints on the treadmill in the Pulse Fitness Centre which is now three times the size of the original workout area.

By 7am, the Garden Café starts to fill with earlymorning breakfast diners. Here, you’ll find the usual hot breakfast items: eggs, bacon, sausage links, waffles, oatmeal and porridge. Most guests get out into the fresh air and take their plates to the Great Outdoors (formerly known as the Raffles Terrace), which overlooks the adults-only Spice H20 with its pool, plentiful deck chairs, and sun loungers.

After breakfast, it’s then a mad scramble to hit the pool or to make use of the ship’s list of activities.

Trivia, bingo, dance classes and game shows fill our planners on sea days. The spa is a revolving door of guests looking for hot-stone massages, facials, seaweed wraps and even microdermabrasion.

By evening, the bars and lounges fill with guests enjoying pre-dinner or pre-theatre aperitifs. The Oriental-inspired murals and bright colours are gone – instead, it’s all white marble with gold accents and cream-coloured chairs.

Magnum’s Champagne & Wine Bar on Deck 8 overlooking the Atrium is adorned with Moet and Chandon bottles and crystal chandeliers, while the Social Comedy and Night Club, which was once called the Maharini’s Nightclub and Lounge, is designed for comedy and late-night dancing and has become reminiscent of a kitsch karaoke bar.

Perhaps the most noticeable thing about the ship is the vast number of dining venues and watering holes.

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Bubbles with bubbles

Enjoying the hot tub in adults-only pool and bar area, Spice H20, on Norwegian Spirit.

Cruises

Alaska Itinerary: Hubbard Glacier & Skagway to Seward Departing: Vancouver When: May-August 2023 How long: 7 days South Pacific Itinerary: Fiji, Moorea & Vanuatu Departing: Sydney When: March 2024 How long: 13 days

which are complimentary – meaning there is a huge range of eating options on board.

This is my seventh NCL voyage, (unfortunately, I’m not as experienced and seasoned as Mr Lounsbury) but across all the sailings I’ve been on, the food has always been sensational, particularly the specialty dining.

The favourites are back, like Cagney’s Steakhouse, Le Bistro French Restaurant, Teppanyaki and the modern-Italian Onda

by Scarpetta.

Our first night is spent getting to know the 22-strong group of journalists and their travel companions. As we regaled each other with stories of our travels in the past 12 months, we feasted on braised octopus, served with a bold combination of pancetta, romesco, sofrito and tomato, bright yellowtail crudo as well as a huge crumbed veal chop Milanese, branzino and lightly seared tuna with pistachio pesto and carrot ginger puree.

The highlight of the trip was Cagney’s Steakhouse, reminiscent of a New York bistro with its deep rich walnut furniture and heavy-set chairs. You know what you’re in Cagney’s for – the steak and sides. They keep it simple – ribeye, bone-in ribeye, medium, medium rare, garlic mash, onion rings, and roasted mushrooms. It’s the type of place where you’ll throw back your shrimp cocktail and filet mignon with a dry martini.

The evening entertainment rotates between magic shows as well as bespoke productions such as Blazing Boots, a tribute to pop country showcasing songs from superstars Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood and Shania Twain.

By day three, we too had settled into the cruise life – gym and breakfast with a lie by the pool in the morning, before changing and heading off to the next trivia session.

While Spirit might not be filled with big shows, waterslides and rides, her role in the Australian cruise market is to serve the seasoned cruiser. It is the chance to unwind, relax and enjoy the everyday life of being at sea. CT

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Dior Eyewear ‘DiorPacific’ cat-eye sunnies, AU$554.

Alémais ‘Soleil’ midi shirtdress, AU$916.

South Pacific

Nivea Sun Protect & Moisture SPF50+ sunscreen, AU$23.

Dragon Diffusion ‘Santa Croce’ tote in leather, AU$615.

Trunk Show Lack of Color ‘The Cove’ straw hat, AU$149.

Poppy Lissiman ‘Lio’ tote in Sand Suns, AU$190.

Birkenstock ‘Arizona’ suede sandals, AU$212.

Hunza G swimsuit, AU$295.

Mirage ‘Tropic’ adult snorkel set, AU$29.99.

Gucci ‘Original GG’ slide sandal, AU$945.

GoPro Hero11 Black, AU$799.

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Mat moisturiser, AU$35.95.

Matteau silk sarong, AU$441.

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24/2/2023 3:51 pm

The happiest I people on Earth French Polynesia is a gem that’s about to be rediscovered. Peter Lynch sails on its Grand Dame, the Paul Gauguin.

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t’s 2am in Tahiti, and we’ve just landed at Papeete airport. Far from the usual scene of grumpy immigration officials who have drawn the short straw and got the midnight shift, there is a band playing.

The trio is not just playing - they strum their ukuleles like a heavy metal band on steroids, banging out a happy melody that’s probably about drinking rum, dancing with amply endowed women and eating fresh tuna.

They move amongst us dolling out sweet-smelling garlands.

And they wear hats that anywhere else would be considered very silly. They are made of huge blooms and seashells.

The next 14 days are spent in the warm embrace of French Polynesians who seem to have found that happy place we’re all searching for. What other nation would make the ukulele its musical instrument of choice and the Hinano beer logo an emblem? It is probably why they greet us everywhere like longlost friends.

We’re sailing French Polynesia and the Society Islands with Paul Gauguin, the stately grand dame that has had this region’s beautiful lagoons, bays and islands virtually to itself for a quarter of a century. Once the prized possession of a local hotelier and environmental activist, the French luxury line

Paradise found

Clockwise, from left: Children performing in a cultural show; view from balcony on board Paul Gauguin; the ship racing dolphins in Rangiroa in the Tuamotu Archipelago.

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“As we board for a 12-day Cook Islands and Society Islands cruise, we quietly applaud the way this destination has flown under the radar. Polynesians have an extraordinary way of life.”

PAUL GAUGUIN IN FRENCH POLYNESIA

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Ponant beat a big ship line to the punch and purchased her and her iconic brand in 2019, just before the pandemic.

She may be mature in years – the vessel is 25 and started life with Seven Seas Cruises – but her name has travelled well beyond the 117 islands she sails around. In America, her reputation is massive, which explains why so many of her passengers come from the US. Now Ponant, a French luxury small-ship adventure specialist with big ambitions, is intent on making Paul Gauguin a global brand.

The ship went to Singapore in January for her second refit, and Ponant may well put another of its iconic small vessels in the area to increase numbers to this largely undiscovered but fabulous cruise and travel destination.

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onant is just right for French Polynesia – and not just because of its Gallic origins. Even in this most friendly of places, there are moves to protect the way of life, with recent legislation maintaining vessel sizes at about 1000 passengers. Bora Bora, a screensaver destination with jaw-dropping white beaches, azure waters, coral reefs and lush green peaks, has limited ship sizes to 1200 passengers.

Paul Gauguin, with around 330 guests and its shallow draft, is just right for the islands too. She can drop anchor anywhere and her pool deck, three restaurants and marina deck are the perfect complements.

There is something of a relaxed, upmarket club atmosphere on board. Many among the crew have been with the ship for more than a decade. Pascale Guertin, the singer who does a mean Edith Piaf night, has been working at the theatre and La Palette bar since 2014.

Catering chief Paul Ellis proudly boasts he now has the sons of his

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chefs working as apprentices. It’s an extraordinary tribute to the ship and its location. Ellis, an American, has lived in Papeete with his French Polynesian wife for 11 years.

As we board for a 12-day Cook Islands and Society Islands cruise, we quietly applaud the way this destination has flown under the radar. Polynesians have an extraordinary way of life. But it’s fragile and needs protection.

In Papeete, the bustling capital with a population of 25,000, you might be forgiven for thinking this is just another warm-climate island. But visit the food markets and you’ll see just how abundant the most wonderful produce is. Hunks of delicious fresh red and white tuna are sold everywhere – the locals eat it raw or with tartar sauce. Fruits like pineapple, pawpaw and mango abound.

Some say French Polynesia suffers from “island time” – we frazzled superannuated city folk consider that an affliction. But those who love the place don’t see it that way. It’s about getting your priorities right.

Despite the abundance of fruit, the happy Polynesians don’t stress about sending this bounty abroad.

Only five per cent of local fish is allowed to be exported. As we worry about “food sovereignty”, maybe we should take a leaf out of their book.

Ellis says his attempts to get local supplies for the ship have had limited success. “If I ask for 800 pounds of mangoes, I generally get half or less,” he tells us. “They would rather let them fall on the ground than collect them for trade.” Our driver on the island of Rarotonga confirms that historic land ownership, where tribal elders hand out parcels to local families, means there is little ability to grow plantation crops.

Much of it has to be flown from California.

What underpins this position is French Polynesia’s colonial past. Missionaries arrived in the 1800s and the French navy wasn’t far behind. Today, it’s still reliant on its colonial master for up to 80 per cent of its income.

Paul Gauguin has a unique claim to food fame: it is one of only a handful of cruise ships allowed to serve fresh, unfrozen fish, thanks to the health of this region’s waters and local laws. Ellis serves us moonfish and demonstrates how to Cruise &Travel

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Island days

Clockwise, from top: Bora Bora; excursion to Fatu Hiva; days spent snorkelling; on board Paul Gauguin; a welcome to private island, Motu Mahana.

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Voyage de-bone this massive local delicacy. It’s huge – about 12.5 kilograms. During our cruise, we will sauté, poach or fry 1000 kilograms of mahi mahi, wahoo and yellow-fin tuna – all of it from local waters.

The food is excellent aboard the ship. L’Etoile serves different regional dishes each lunchtime, and more formal fare at dinner. The Veranda has breakfast al fresco and creations from Jean-Pierre Vigato, one of Paris’s most celebrated chefs, in the evening. The Grill is less formal and serves up juicy steaks.

Ellis has been readying his 28 staff for the more demanding requirements of his growing band of French guests, arriving thanks to the ship’s new owners.

It’s an interesting cultural melting pot. Among our guests, a family of 19 from America are celebrating their 94-year-old father’s birthday, and a French family of eight, whose delightful children turn up for dinner in bow ties and dresses, occupy the top suites.

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ife aboard Paul Gauguin – the French painter’s works are everywhere and there is even a tiny museum to his memory – is almost as laidback as the islands, though there is a slacks-and-shirts dress code for dinner at L’Etoile and La Véranda.

French heritage is evident, from announcements (dual language, with English first) to the fast-talking French cruise director and pony-tailed guest lecturer.

The captain for our sailing is one of the most senior of Ponant’s senior crew – Patrick Marchesseau was in command when Le Ponant was taken by pirates off Africa.

His bravery made him a French national hero, and he wrote a book and starred as himself in a French-language movie.

The bronzed captain throws himself into dancing by the pool and spends time with every one of the 200 or so guests.

He is on a short-term loan and will soon be back aboard the luxury icebreaker Le Commandant Charcot in the Antarctic.

Our voyage is blessed with great weather and almost all excursions are about the water. “Just don’t pat the sharks,” our guide, genial Taai, tells us before we jump from his glass-bottomed boat into glass-clear seas. We can, however, pat the stingrays who nuzzle up to us and wrap us with their wings and will take fresh fish from your hand (you can see us feeding on the CruisePassenger channel at youtube.com).

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Amazing experiences

From top to bottom: Getting up close to stingrays; passengers inspired to renew their vows in the island paradise; Paul Gauguin’s midships pool.

Concierge

‘Beauty beyond words’ It is easy to see why Marlon Brando described Tetiaroa, an atoll island in Tahiti, as so “beautiful it is beyond my capacity to describe”.

There’s something breathtakingly stunning about the 118 tiny islands scattered across the shimmering waters of Tahiti and French Polynesia. They cast a spell over you and you fall in love with the giant stingrays, exceptional coral reefs, untamed nature, immaculate lagoons and local Tahitian women.

Our first port of call is Huahine, about 200 kilometres northwest of Tahiti. Huahine is surrounded by magnificent bays, white sandy beaches and wild vegetation dripping with bananas and breadfruit. Two islands make up Huahine, Grande Huahine to the north and La Petite Huahine to the south. Only eight small villages are scattered across the islands. We stop and walk in the main town of Fare and meet bemused locals.

After a day at sea, we next stop at the little island of 16 square kilometres, Aitutaki, a fishing town. But the island has a magnificent lagoon offering some of the best snorkelling spots.

Aitutaki also specialises in black and dark grey lustrous pearls and colourful pareos (sarongs) many hand-painted

by French artists who now call the island home.

The following day we arrive at Rarotonga, the largest of the Cook Islands, which is surrounded by a coral reef. It has a magnificent silhouette with its steep volcanic mountains standing against the deep blue sky mirrored in the sparkling waters below. We take a bus tour around the island and learn about the local tribal customs, warfare, cannibalism and the arrival of Christianity.

Bora Bora has long been billed as the star attraction: five-star luxury resorts dot the island with their over-water, thatched-roof bures or villas. We opt for a self-drive Avis car and stop by the local restaurant, Bloody Mary’s. You can take your pick of The Absolut Bloody Mary’s, Vanilla Rum Punch, Pina Colada or Frozen Amaretto Sour. As the locals say, “Manuia”.

At the private island of Motu Mahana, Taha’A Island, a couple celebrates their 10th wedding anniversary with a renewal of vows ceremony witnessed by Captain Patrick Marchesseau. To the sounds of the ukulele and wrapped in the traditional Polynesian blanket of love, the husband and wife looked a trifle embarrassed.

Our final port of call was magical Mo’orea with its heavenly beaches and statuesque gardens at Vaipahi. Shaped like a heart the island is also the top honeymoon destination in Tahiti.

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“Scuba diving is available on the reefs, and after a two-hour training session in the pool, I qualify to see parrot fish, rays and sharks.”

PAUL GAUGUIN IN FRENCH POLYNESIA A boat boy called Patrick tells me they are responding to the vibrations in the water. He whistles and a giant comes to the surface. He gives it a kiss and winks at me. “They only speak Tahitian,” he says. It’s a good story. But a pocket full of bait fish tells a different one.

A

Under the sea

Above: Diving expeditions off the ship are popular.

Above right: The standard cabin aboard Paul Gauguin.

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s well as Tahiti, where our cruise begins and ends at the InterContinental hotel, Bora Bora is the rockstar destination. A small island northwest of Tahiti, it is gobsmackingly beautiful. An American puts it well: “Round every corner is a screensaver moment!” The colours are awe-inspiring. It’s 30 sq km of sand-fringed beaches, a turquoise lagoon protected by a coral reef with Otemanu, a 727-metre dormant volcano, rising at its centre.

There are about 10,000 locals – but right now there are also 18,000 tourists staying at 14 resorts, all lured by the beaches and overwater bungalows.

We hire a car and visit Bloody Mary’s, a seafood bar that has attracted the Rolling Stones and a host of film stars. We hold a barbecue on a Paul Gauguin private island, where guests can have a massage in an overwater treatment room. One American couple renews their vows under a palm tree. The captain officiates and a ukulele band plays the bridal waltz.

Scuba diving is available on the reefs, and after a two-hour training session in the pool, I qualify to see parrot fish, rays and sharks. Shoals of blue damselfish hang around the larger coral stumps. Above us in the water, a parade of bright yellow “sea scooters” – a helmetstyle top allows riders to breathe normally – passes with a jolly wave.

French Polynesia is expensive, so the best way to see it is on a vessel like Paul Gauguin.

Apart from excursions and the spa, there were few other expenses. Wine is included with food. Our cabin is well appointed, relaxed and with a balcony where we can view the amazing skies, volcanic clouds and astonishing sunsets.

Without direct flights, we flew into Auckland and then onward. Direct flights were not available at the time of writing and were sorely missed. It’s a great destination for Australians. Ponant, as beautiful as the Caribbean but still unspoilt. You’ll even learn to love the sound of a ukulele, I promise! CT

Book it

For more information see: discover.ponant.com/ paul-gauguin-cruises.

Cook Islands & Society Islands 12 days starts at $8090, and Ponant has a welcome offer of $800 per stateroom when guests book their first cruise and a bonus of up to 30% off when guests book early.

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Voyage

STANDING TALL

Sue Bryant steps back in time to the golden age of clippers and finds a beautiful sailing experience on a ship that is the envy of all those in port.

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O

n a breezy day at sea, there’s only one place you’ll find me on a Star Clippers ship: sprawled on the giant nets, strung like trampolines either side of the ship’s bowsprit. Here, you can gaze up through the intricate rigging as the wind fills the sails, and down at the ship’s prow, piercing the greeny-blue water. Sometimes, dolphins appear and ride the bow wave, which is a thrill to watch.

Admittedly the net isn’t the most comfortable place and I’ve often clambered out windswept, with a criss-cross rope pattern on my back. But the blissful life on a clipper ship today is far from the hardships of the heyday of these “greyhounds of the sea”, as they were known, which would race across the trade routes in the mid-19th century. Back then, their holds would be full of tea, spices, silk or opium, with no space for luxurious cabins or a piano bar.

The golden age of clippers ended with the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869 and the advent of steamships. But fast-forward more than a century and you can enjoy all the swashbuckling excitement of a clipper voyage with none of the discomfort. Swedish entrepreneur Mikael Krafft, the founder of Star Clippers, launched the four-masted, square-rigged barquentine Star Flyer in 1991, followed by twin Star Clipper in 1992, each carrying just 166 passengers. The bigger, swankier Royal Clipper, with five masts, an exact replica of the tall ship Preussen, was launched in 2000. All three are still going strong and the romance of a Star Clippers voyage continues to capture the imagination of thousands; on any single cruise, up to 60 per cent of the passengers are repeat sailors.

Star Clippers’ main sailing areas are the Mediterranean and the Caribbean, both of which lend themselves beautifully to voyages

Bright and breezy

Left: Star Clippers mostly sails the Med and the Caribbean Islands, but has also recently returned to the coast of Costa Rica. Above: Cocktails on board.

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Voyage STAR CLIPPERS under sail. There have also been a few seasons out of Phuket and a flirtation with Bali, both of which attracted a lot of Australian passengers, and this year, Star Clipper is exploring the jungly coasts of Costa Rica and Panama.

So why go? The experience of sailing on a clipper ship is a long way from a conventional cruise. Edging out of port as sails creak up the masts and the anchor chain rattles into place, the company’s evocative theme music, Vangelis’ “Conquest of Paradise”, blasting out across the deck, brings out goosebumps, or tears, or both.

Every now and then, passengers can help raise the sails. On one or two days per cruise, you can climb up the mast to the crow’s nest, for stupendous views down over the decks.

A great amount of detail has gone into the interiors of all three ships, with polished brass, gleaming wood and paintings of old clipper ships adorning the walls. The cabins are as you’d expect on a sailing ship: compact, with clever storage and tiny but efficient bathrooms.

Food is decent and plentiful rather than haute cuisine, with breakfast and lunch buffets and waiter-served dinners, all served in the elegant dining room. Meals are open seating, at tables for four, six or eight, so if the ship’s full, you will need to share. You’ll meet interesting people, from North America, Britain, mainland Europe, especially Germany, and some from Australia and New Zealand. Over the years I’ve sailed with a movie legend, an ’80s girl band, an opera singer, a wealthy lady who had the hots for the ship’s bosun and never left the bar, a gossip columnist and a kids’ TV presenter. You’ll meet couples, singles, groups of friends and families.

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“Over the years I’ve sailed with a movie legend, an ’80s girl band, an opera singer ... a gossip columnist and a kids’ TV presenter.”

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Top tips

Budget for drinks, which are reasonably priced, excursions and crew tips. If you need to save money, opt for a cabin on the lower deck. The decor is the same and you barely spend any time in it, anyway. Book a treatment in the massage tent on deck; the therapists are excellent (on Royal Clipper, there’s a small spa, which is less rustic). Brave climbing the mast for the views and the bowsprit net for the sensation. If you suffer from motion sickness, bring pills or bands. The ships do move, but they are built for sailing and the rhythm of the ocean is more natural than you might find on a big ship that doesn’t cut through the water. Finally, always make time before bed for a stroll around the deck; it’s magical.

What to pack

Pack deck shoes, polarising sunglasses, suncream and a hat that won’t blow away in the wind.

Leave the tuxedo at home; the dress code is casual, although people make more effort in the evenings. Most sailings include a White Nights party and a pirate night – neither is compulsory. Take your camera and you’ll be amazed at how many pictures you snap of the sails. Bring a refillable water bottle, too, and use the water fountain rather than buying plastic bottles from the bar.

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Entertainment is decidedly homespun, throwing this eclectic mix together in the al fresco Tropical Bar, the social hub of the ship. After dinner, you can expect pirate games, rowdy quizzes, a talent show and unashamedly cheesy disco dancing. On my recent cruise to Costa Rica, there was a White Nights party on deck, too, with coloured lights illuminating the sails. Of course, you can also avoid the bar and just stroll on deck in the moonlight, gazing up at the sails and listening to the wind and the sea.

So where can you go? Star Clippers’ ships work brilliantly in the Mediterranean as they only sail to beautiful ports. Malaga to Cannes on Royal Clipper has real style, as you visit Ibiza, Palma and Mahon in the Balearics and in Corsica, the ancient citadels of Bonifacio and Calvi.

Amalfi and Sicily on Star Clipper is gorgeous, as the voyage takes in the citrus-scented Amalfi coast and the volcanic Aeolian islands, and you sail round-trip from Rome, which is easy to get to. There are Monaco Grand Prix itineraries, too, for top bragging rights.

Eastern Mediterranean itineraries sail from Athens, Istanbul or Venice.

Doing the Greek islands by sailing ship is always fun as there’s usually a decent wind – and again, every port is gorgeous. All the Greek itineraries call at a big-name island like Mykonos or Santorini, but there are stops at more authentic spots, too, from Amorgos to pretty, hippie Hydra. One of my favourite voyages took us past Skopelos, sailing at sunset past the Mamma Mia church of Agios Ioannis Kastri, perched on top of a jagged rock.

If you’ve never been to the Caribbean, a Star Clippers cruise is a great way to explore the more “yachtie” islands, for example, swish St Barths, sleepy Nevis instead of touristy St Kitts, the jewel-like Iles des Saintes off Guadeloupe and in Antigua, sailing hotspot Falmouth Harbour, leaving the capital, St John, to the megaships.

Water, water everywhere

Clockwise, from above: Panama Beach; Star Flyer; snorkelling off the ship; the writer’s favourite spot on the tall ship – the bow net.

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Voyage The Treasure Islands itineraries from St Maarten spend time in the British Virgin Islands, mercifully largely free of giant duty-free shopping malls, and anchoring off tiny spots like Virgin Gorda, Soper’s Hole and Norman Island.

Having been lucky enough to sail to all these places with Star Clippers, I was excited about the Central America itineraries which restarted late last year after a long break. Costa Rica is without doubt one of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever visited, with extraordinary wildlife, moody volcanoes, ethereal clouds draped low over the treetops and roadside shacks piled high with luscious fruit.

At Golfito, one of my favourite ports, the air was so humid it felt liquid. Cliffs plunged straight into a turquoise sea. Brown pelicans followed the ship and we watched bottlenose dolphins hunting a shoal of needlefish for their lunch, leaping out of the water between mouthfuls in showy formation.

But to make the most of Costa Rica, more so than in the Mediterranean or the Caribbean, you will need to budget for excursions and ideally, do something in every port, which will add a few hundred dollars to your trip. I splashed out on a river rafting trip, which is a great way to see wildlife. Capuchin and howler monkeys watched from the trees as we shot small rapids. Enormous iguanas with spiny crests and striped tails basked on rocks, while three-metre crocodiles with serrated teeth waited on the banks.

Extend your cruise, too, if you’re going to travel all this way from Australia; Costa Rica’s mountain resorts are packed with opportunities for ziplining, rafting, hiking and luxurious spa treatments. Better do the mountains first, though, as once you’ve fallen under the spell of life on a clipper ship, you might not want to leave. CT

Scenic spots

Clockwise, from above: Natuwa Sanctuary, Costa Rica; Star Clippers cabin; watersports off Royal Clipper.

Verdict

An unbeatable and exceptionally romantic experience at a reasonable price. This is the perfect way to cruise if you don’t care about casinos, speciality dining and lavish entertainment but get a buzz out of being on the most beautiful ship in port.

Highs The beauty and authenticity of the ships, the experience of sailing, the interesting people and the chance to commune with the sea. Every day really does feel like an adventure.

Lows The ships are showing their age a little, as are some of the Zodiacs and the tenders. Don’t come expecting ultra-luxury. And despite the sustainability of travel under sail, there’s still a lot of single-use plastic on board.

STAR CLIPPERS

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24/2/2023 2:14 pm

Oceans

T

ravel has always been about expecting the unexpected.

The lure of the unknown is part of the joy of exploring the world, of seeing life through another’s eyes. Cruising is no exception.

Perhaps even more so, given the waterway limitations in which cruise ships operate. So, when Captain Tysse announces the changes one hour before departing Sydney, most passengers simply shrug their shoulders, raise a glass of Champagne as we cruise past the Sydney Opera House and philosophically accept the changes. For many, it’s enough to be cruising again postpandemic.

“I am ashamed to say I publicly scoffed when I learned that Timaru was a replacement destination,” said one Aucklandbased passenger upon learning about changes to our upcoming New Zealand voyage. “There’s nothing to see there!” she exclaimed contemptuously. The majestic forest-clad fjords and towering mountains of Milford Sound had been taken off the itinerary. So too the colonial French architecture and the world’s

Expect the unexpected

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Fiona Harper cruised to New Zealand from Australia on board Azamara Quest and discovered that despite the best-laid travel plans, cruising is all about being flexible.

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24/2/2023 2:10 pm

rarest dolphins in Akaroa. Gone. Caput. Cancelled. We won’t visit any of the 144 islands in the Bay of Islands.

Instead, announces Captain Tysse, we’ll visit Timaru, a small city midway between Dunedin and Christchurch which few on board have heard of, and even fewer have visited. Christchurch and the nearby Port of Lyttelton are late inclusions too. We’ll also gain an extra sea day before disembarking in Auckland – an unexpected bonus for those of us who relish the chance to relax into the soothing rhythm of the sea. Though not all on board share my enthusiasm. Shore excursions, land-based explorations and simply wandering around a never-visited place are key attractions for cruisers and the nature-based experiences were a significant lure for this New Zealand voyage.

As we cruise towards the heads and the Tasman Sea beyond, Captain Tysse explains that New Zealand’s strict biosecurity laws now require incoming vessels to undertake hull cleaning prior to visiting pristine marine park waters. The regulations leave him with little choice and he makes the best call to ensure maximum opportunity for passengers to explore New Zealand – literally a ‘captain’s pick’.

Later, after exploring Timaru with her teenage daughter, that same passenger ‘forgives’ Timaru, making up for her initial scepticism with vocal praise, confessing that her criticism was unfair given that she’d never actually visited Timaru.

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All white on the night

This page: The fun, glamour and entertainment of White Night on board Azamara Quest. Opposite page, from top: Cultural show on board the ship; in port at Tauranga in the Bay of Plenty.

Top tips

• Bring your own reusable ‘keep cup’ if you like a large cup of tea or coffee or tea (those on board are generally on the smaller side).

• Pack something white to wear on White Night, a poolside party with an extravagant feast followed by dancing beneath the stars. The dress code across Quest is mostly smart resort- style, with the option of dressing up for special dinners and the AzAmazing Evening.

• Sign up early for shore excursions as they fill up fast.

• Book a table at specialty restaurants Aqualina or Prime C at least once during your voyage (additional charge applies).

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Oceans

AZAMARA IN NEW ZEALAND

“After a quick exploration of this pretty town and a wonderful excursion to see ancient Māori rock art at Pleasant Point, my view of Timaru has completely changed,” she enthused.

With art galleries and a museum showcased by friendly locals along with striking Edwardian and Victorian bluestone architecture within easy walking distance from the port where Azamara Quest is docked, it’s easy to appreciate the city’s appeal. A colony of adorable little penguins – at just 40 centimetres tall they are the world’s smallest – whose nearby Caroline Bay rookery may have had something to do with laying on the Timaru charm.

Azamara is known for curating voyages strong on destination immersion which allows for extended shore time. On this 17-night Australia & New Zealand Intensive Voyage, Quest stays overnight in both Sydney and Tauranga, and departs well after dark at Dunedin, Wellington and Nelson to maximise passengers’ time ashore. With the last-minute schedule change, we now have an additional night in Auckland, too.

With a full program of daily activities ranging from trivia, jewellery making, watercolour painting, destination lectures, a spa and beauty salon, gymnasium, yoga, Pilates and wateraerobics sessions, a steam room, swimming pool, two hot tubs, a nightly variety show of song and dance plus a late-night DJ, sleeping feels like cheating with so many things to do. But, I’m also keen to take time out to relax, and can admit to spending an inordinate amount of time poolside

working my way through the cocktail menu.

Not to mention dining in the six restaurants with their ever-changing menus that tantalise my taste buds.

Another highlight of cruising with Azamara are the signature (complimentary) AzAmazing Evenings which are designed to connect travellers with a unique aspect of local culture. On the previous cruise, an extended stopover in Adelaide featured guitarist extraordinaire James Morrison and his jazz ensemble which performed to an enraptured audience at Adelaide Oval followed by an extravagant sound and light show. In Wellington, we’re treated to an Evening Symphony by the Sea. This gala event is held at the lavish 100-year-old Opera House, a cultural icon complete with ancient timber floorboards that creak beneath my feet, a grand marble staircase, an intricate hand-painted domed ceiling and a striking proscenium arch that frames the stage. Led by distinguished conductor Marc Taddei, Orchestra Wellington and Signature Choir combine for an evening of much-loved operatic overtures with traditional and popular songs from the South Pacific. Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro “Overture” melds seamlessly with Polynesian mythology, legends and stories told through song by the Samoaninfluenced choir. It’s a passionate, touching performance that brings tears to my eyes and the audience to its feet calling enthusiastically for an encore.

New Zealand’s Polynesian connections are showcased throughout our Azamara voyage. One night, while docked in Tauranga, the cultural group Te Whanau a Apanui perform traditional Māori dances and ceremonial songs in the Cabaret Lounge. Passengers are invited on stage to participate good-naturedly alongside Māori warriors before the troupe performs a ceremonial haka with all the ferocious foot-stamping, thigh-slapping and chanting that has made this traditional war cry both feared and revered.

Later, on a pre-booked shore excursion I visit Rotorua’s geothermal region which has deep connections with indigenous Māori people. At Te Puia in the sacred Te Whakarewarewa Valley, a 60-hectare geothermal basin dotted with gurgling geysers and bubbling mud pools, our group learns of native Māori lore and tales of feisty fire goddesses. We watch in anticipation as Pohutu Geyser, the largest in the Southern Hemisphere, spits and splutters before spewing a violent gush of boisterous steam skywards.

Sights of the Sounds

Clockwise, from above: Marlborough Sounds; plant-based dining at Prime C; morning salutations; landing at Abel Tasman National Park; Dunedin wildlife excursion.

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Verdict

Nearby, Rotowhio Marae’s interior is intricately adorned with traditional wood carvings inlaid with lustrous paua shell. At the Māori Arts & Crafts Institute, students weave flax into intricate costumes while carvers are tutored by master craftsmen whose exquisite artworks are on display at the adjacent New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute.

The final stop on our Rotorua excursion is the Polynesian Lake Spa Retreat where 28 mineral pools are fed by geothermal springs overlooking a natural lake. From the acidic Priest Spring (so named after a Catholic priest who was ‘cured’ of crippling arthritis after bathing in the pool in 1878) to the alkalinerich Rachel Spring, I alternate between luxuriating in various hot pools, dunking myself like a teabag into the icy cold plunge pool in between.

Though I’m reluctant to leave the thermal pools, the enticing lure of my spacious Club Veranda Stateroom on board Quest awaits my return. With a wall of floor-to-ceiling glass bathing the room in natural light, my favourite moments come from the simple pleasure of awakening to an ever-changing land and seascape, whether viewed from my bed, the sofa or from the balcony. It matters little whether we’re sailing into a busy port like Lyttelton or along the tranquil fjords of Marlborough Sounds, I never tire of the view. Cruising is well and truly back, and my fellow guests and I couldn’t be happier. CT

“New Zealand’s Polynesian connections are showcased throughout our Azamara voyage.”

Azamara Quest comfortably bridges the gap between oversized megaship and expedition cruising. Quest is small enough to find plenty of quiet places while being large enough to have multiple restaurants, bars and nightlife entertainment options.

Highs: • Azamara’s signature AzAmazing Evening is a firm favourite, both for the beautiful historic Wellington venue, but also for the emotionally charged performance.

• Complimentary in-cabin dining is a terrific inclusion, particularly for leisurely breakfast in bed or for those times when a quiet night at ‘home’ watching a movie is desired.

• An all-new plant-based vegan menu created by corporate executive chef Colin Jones is exceptional – don’t miss the Sicilian-style grilled watermelon tuna steak or tangy miso soup.

Lows: • Don’t count on fast internet access – onboard Wi-Fi packages are available for purchase (for use on one device per package) but connectivity is slow and may be unreliable.

Book it

Itinerary: The 17-night Australia & New Zealand Intensive Voyage, from Melbourne to Auckland.

Cabin type: Club Veranda Stateroom (20.1 sq m).

Fare: From $16,416 per stateroom for two guests ($15,444 for one guest) including gratuities. Taxes, fees and port expenses are at an additional cost (approximately $970).

See: azamara.com/en-au

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24/2/2023 1:55 pm

Oceans

Totême women’s cotton cargo jacket, AU$596.

Outrak ‘Main Border’ trekking poles, AU$59.99.

Canada Goose ‘Freestyle’ women’s down vest, AU$763.

New Zealand

Trunk Show

Hereu ‘Pesca’ leather sandals, AU$602.

Kathmandu ‘Cotinga’ 16L pack, AU$119.98.

The North Face ‘1996 Retro Nuptse’ women’s vest, AU$350.

Frank Green ceramic reusable bottle, AU$59.95.

Macpac waterproof hat, AU$69.99.

Bode women’s cotton shorts, AU$581.

Bottega Veneta cross-body bag, AU$5690.

Erdem ‘Lorelai’ denim midi-dress, AU$1430.

Nikon Z FC camera, AU$1549.

Kathmandu ‘Amphi’ 3-in-1 rain jacket, AU$599.98.

Salomon Quest Element GTX hiking boots, AU$279.99.

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24/2/2023 1:48 pm

Monaco, Monte Carlo

All that's included in your voyage

Get ready, set sail! If you’ve been dreaming of exploring Europe, let us make it a reality. We’re offering you great prices and a USD $300 onboard credit* to use for once-in-a-lifetime shore excursions, indulgent spa treatments or onboard shopping... it’s up to you!

Take time to watch the dramatic tide change at Mont-Saint-Michel in France, where this wonderous abbey seems to float on the sea during high tide. Stroll among the luxury yachts in Monte Carlo on your late-night stay and take a spin in a performance car around the route of the Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix, or lift off into the Icelandic skies and fly to one of the northernmost points in the world, the Arctic Circle.

Of course, your Azamara® voyage always includes gratuities, exclusive cultural events, complimentary beverages and more. Come on board and let us take care of the rest, while you visit destinations you've only dreamed of.

BOOK BY 31ST MARCH 2023!* TO BOOK CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR, CALL 1800 570 552 OR VISIT AZAMARA.COM/EN-AU/300OBC

Change The Way You Sea

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*Terms and Conditions: The Ready, Set, Sail Offer applies to new, individual, and non-contracted group bookings up to 31st March 2023 (“Offer Period”), on selected voyages departing between 28th February 2023 to 3rd April 2024. Offer provides $300 USD onboard credit (“OBC”) per stateroom based on double occupancy. All guests must be named, and a full deposit must be made prior to the end of the Offer Period for Ready, Set, Sail Offer. OBC has no cash value, is not redeemable for cash, is not transferable, and will expire if not used by 10pm on the last evening of the voyage. Ready, Set, Sail Offer is combinable with exclusive Travel Partner promotions, Back-to-Back Benefits, onboard booking savings and Azamara Circle Quarterly Savings. Unless stated otherwise, offer is not combinable with, Last Minute Voyages, Closed User Rates, Employee Rates, Interline Rates, Travel Agent Rates, and Net Rates. Offer is subject to availability and change without notice, is capacity controlled and may be withdrawn at any time. Promoter’s standard booking terms and conditions (including any supplementary terms and policies related to the COVID-19 pandemic) will apply and are available to view at https://www.azamara.com/en-au/australian-terms-conditions. For general booking information, eligible sailings, terms and conditions, inclusions, cancellation charges & other information please refer to the Azamara website or contact your travel agent. ©2023 Azamara. Ships registered in Malta. ‘Change The Way You Sea’ is an international service mark of SP Cruises OpCo Limited.

24/2/2023 1:49 pm

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Rivers

The Rivers of Dreams

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Longer journeys and more in-depth and luxurious voyages are what Australians and New Zealanders are looking for when it comes to river cruises, writes Bernadette Chua.

w

hile Europe might still be the standout destination, we are heading to more far-flung destinations and favouring longer sailings as we rebound with our so-called ‘f*** it lists’ over the next two years. And this can be seen in the demand from luxury river cruisers, with the managing director of Uniworld, Alice Ager, saying 80 per cent of the line’s bookings are in higher cabins compared to pre-pandemic levels.

“Around 25 per cent of all our bookings are for our French itineraries – this is an ongoing trend that we have seen since 2021. We make joining our seven-night itineraries together so easy with included First Class rail on the TGV and porterage between each cruise, when booked back to back. Also, we think guests just love the French joie de vivre generally and are happy to return to their old-favourite destinations once again.”

But she also said that river cruisers are looking at destinations such as India and Egypt, with some cruisers also incorporating train travel.

“Cruise and rail pairings in India with Maharajahs Express and in Europe with Golden Eagle Rail are hugely popular and at a high price point with average bookings at $30,000. Egypt and the Nile is our most popular single itinerary overall and accounts for 10 per cent of our bookings,” she says.

“Second most popular is our new 15-day itinerary Grand Central Europe from Basel to Vienna which is a new take on the old school Amsterdam to Budapest.”

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Earlier this year, the world’s longest river cruise set sail covering 4000 kilometres of waterways over 51 days, snaking through exciting attractions and destinations, including the Kaziranga National Park, Sundarbans Delta and Ganga Aarti, the world’s largest mangrove forest. The Ganga Vilas cruise travelled from Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh to Dibrugarh in Assam, passing through cities Kolkata and Dhaka on the way.

Pandaw Cruises has also launched sales for what it calls a grand tour of India. The new voyage combines a 14-night adventure on the Upper Ganges with the cruise line’s newest itinerary, a seven-night Mighty Brahmaputra cruise segment.

The route includes calls at Varanasi, Kolkata, Guwahati and Silghat, before returning to disembark in Guwahati.

Uniworld, too, has an extraordinary 55-night trip that departs Lima in Peru before eventually taking in three continents, 10 countries, sailings on four luxury ships and a grandiose gala finale at the Saigon Opera in Vietnam.

After the success of the river sailing with Sex and the City’s Candace Bushnell, Avalon Waterways is bringing back its Storyteller series. The line has invited Diana Gabaldon, the author of the New York Times-bestselling Outlander series, to host a special Storyteller cruise on the Danube River in 2024.

The cruise will take you through European jewels such as the castles and vineyards of the Wachau Valley, the intriguing streets of Vienna, the history and culture of Budapest, and plenty more along the Danube.

The lines are also returning with special themed cruises – Scenic has revealed a special sailing with Michelin-starred Chef

A colourful world

Clockwise, from left: Indian holy man on the Ganges; cognac tastings at the Rémy Martin estate; Uniworld’s Aria Amazon; pink dolphin, native to the Amazon River.

Raymond Blanc who will guide guests on an eightday journey on the Dordogne River.

Chef Blanc will delve into the destinations of his home region where he’ll take Scenic guests to try oysters from the waters of Arcachon Bay, cognac at the Rémy Martin estate, and indulge in an exclusive Cheese of France tasting experience in Pauillac. Guests can cycle through the rolling vineyards of Sauternes to sample exquisite Grand Cru Classé vintages of Château LafauriePeyraguey and travel through the scenic Médoc wine route.

But best of all, the voyage returns to Bordeaux to shop with the chef at a local food market, before cooking up a storm in an exclusive hands-on lesson. CT

“We are heading to more far-flung destinations and favouring longer sailings.”

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Collaboration

Danube in depth

SCENIC

This new river cruise itinerary from Scenic crafts the perfect balance between nights in port, daytime excursions and plenty of relaxation time on board a luxury Scenic Space-Ship.

River life

Clockwise, from above: Scenic Jasper in Budapest; the Royal Owner’s Suite.

T

he simple joy of a Danube River cruise is the seamless journey through multiple countries, immersed in the slowly passing scenery of ancient castles, cobblestoned villages, valleys of vineyards and city skylines. Slowing down the pace even further is Scenic’s new 2024 ‘Danube in Depth’ itinerary, which balances longer stays in ports with more daytime sailing.

‘Danube in Depth’ is much more than meandering down the river. This 10-day itinerary is distinguished by its evening departures, three overnight stays and five leisurely days when guests have extra free time to relax onboard in the luxury of a Scenic Space-Ship.

The cruise sails through Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary, including the capital cities of Vienna, Bratislava and

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Budapest, with the opportunity of an excursion to Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic. The ship docks overnight in Budapest, Linz and Nuremberg, and lingers until late evening in Vienna, Bratislava and Passau. The opportunity to enjoy Europe after dark, watching the sunset and the city lights sparkle, is a standout difference of this river cruise itinerary.

Complimentary Scenic Freechoice activities are offered in each port of call, including exclusive Scenic Enrich evening experiences. Some shore excursions have a personal touch; in Bratislava, Scenic guests are invited to a local bakery for coffee,

Ship to shore

From top: Exploring Nuremberg; Portobellos Restaurant on Scenic Space-Ship; Parliament Building, Hungary.

cake and conversation. In Austria’s Wachau Valley, passengers can meet the owners of Artstetten Castle, where the family’s royal ancestor, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, is buried.

Other excursions highlight the Danube’s cultural attractions.

Exclusive to Scenic, river cruise guests are treated to an evening classical concert at Palais Liechtenstein in Vienna. Built at the end of the 17th century and covered in gold leaf and crystal chandeliers, this exquisite palace is an experience in itself.

Also in Vienna, you will be guided through Schönbrunn Palace, where Mozart performed, before a tour of the city’s landmarks. Alternatively, guests can visit a nearby wine region for a morning of tastings. A guided walk is also offered in the beautiful Baroque city of Passau, ending at St. Stephen’s Cathedral, home of the world’s largest Catholic Church organ.

From the port of Linz, a day trip ventures across the border to the Czech town of Cesky Krumlov, one of Europe’s bestpreserved medieval settlements. Another excursion visits Mauthausen’s former concentration camp, which operated during the reign of the National Socialist party (1938-1945). In Regensburg, guests can discover why its enchanting Old Town has earned UNESCO World Heritage status.

“The opportunity to enjoy Europe after dark is a standout difference of this river cruise itinerary.”

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Collaboration

SCENIC Active options include kayaking on the Danube’s largest upstream tributary, the Inn River, paddling past castles and under historic bridges. A cycling adventure, by electric bike, follows a trail through the countryside from Melk to Dürnstein via a magnificent 18th-century Benedictine abbey.

Budapest is the major port where guests embark or disembark, depending on the direction of the itinerary. From the ship’s deck, marvel at the riverside Parliament Building, which is spectacularly lit up at night. Guests can use their free time to explore the city’s famous ruined pubs and Michelin-star restaurants. During the day, explore the sites of Buda Hill and Heroes Square, or people-watch at a café in District V. At the other end of the itinerary is the historic German city of Nuremberg, where guests can choose between two very different excursions: an intriguing insight into the trials of Nazi war criminals or a fun session at an underground cellar to taste locally brewed beers.

Travellers who prefer to explore independently can opt out of any or all excursions. When the ship is docked in the heart of riverside towns, you can come and go as you please. There are plenty of places to shop for souvenirs or settle into a bar for a schnapps. The best locations include Dürnstein, a charming village to find a cosy tavern. In Passau, the Artist’s Mile in the 13th-century Old Town is lined with art galleries and studios. In Linz, spend the afternoon hiking to the hilltop Postlingberg Church or try a signature Linzer torte.

The link between food, beverage and culture is enjoyed on and off Scenic’s Space-Ships. Beyond sampling the local specialties, cooking classes are popular on a Danube river cruise. Joining local chefs, passengers can learn to prepare a Hungarian goulash in Budapest, Slovak dumplings in Bratislava, or the traditional German sausage, Weisswürste, in Regensburg.

Back on board, Scenic’s chefs incorporate authentic regional flavours into every meal, honouring the destinations that the ship sails through.

Professionally trained waiters will anticipate your every need, from refilling wine glasses to explaining the locally sourced ingredients of each dish. Scenic Space-Ships have a main restaurant, a casual café and intimate fine-dining venues serving various European cuisines – at no extra charge.

The difference is in the details with Scenic.

Complimentary premium beverages are served all day; the mini-bar is also free and restocked daily.

All guests in every suite receive the personalised service of a butler, whether you need your shoes shined, laundry washed or morning coffee delivered.

Another exclusive feature is the Salt Therapy Lounge, where you can recline on lounging chairs,

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Cruise highlights From top: Scenic’s Salt Therapy Lounge; Dürnstein on the Danube; Scenic Enrich concert at the Palais Liechtenstein.

surrounded by low-level lighting, while inhaling the health-boosting salty air in this peaceful retreat.

The ‘Danube in Depth’ itinerary provides ample downtime to make the most of the five-star facilities. Five of the ten days include extended hours of sailing, allowing guests to fully relax and watch the scenery gliding by. Panoramic views can be found all over the ship, from the open-air Sun Deck to your private Scenic Sun Lounge, which converts your suite into an enclosed balcony.

When it’s time to socialise, Scenic’s Space-Ships make it easy to mingle in the bar, with no more than 163 guests on any cruise. Meeting likeminded people and sharing your experiences is the perfect way to end a day before effortlessly arriving at your next destination.

Scenic’s Cruise Director is also on hand to assist with any queries about cruising, while the Enrichment Manager takes care of onboard entertainment. Wi-Fi, return airport transfers, and all tipping and gratuities on board and onshore are also included in fares. CT

Cruise &Travel

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Voyage

A Rhine river cruise passes through stunning landscapes, and pedal power (combined with battery power) is the perfect way to explore them, writes Gabrielle Sander.

BIKING with VIKING

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c A river runs through it

Clockwise from left: E-biking through the crocuses in southern Germany; the town of Breisach; mountain forests and traditional houses in Germany’s Black Forest region.

ruises aren’t known for returning you home fit as a fiddle and a kilogram or two lighter. On a river cruise, where you can stroll from one end of the boat to the other in around a minute, all that sleep, (over)eat, repeat is even more likely to take its toll. I’m no treadmill-pounder but, equally, I get antsy at the thought of lolling about on a lounger all day. The nature of my eight-day Rhine cruise, with a new destination to see each day, meant I’d have plenty to explore, but I fancied something a bit more off the beaten track.

An e-bike ride through the Black Forest sounded just the ticket: eight hours of cycling from the town of Breisach through an area of southern Germany known for its beautiful landscapes, where the Brothers Grimm took inspiration for their tales, and deep woodlands and rolling valleys meet medieval villages, Hansel and Gretel-style houses and cuckoo clocks. There was also the promise of its eponymous gateau.

Cardio, cake and photo ops aside, I was apprehensive as the day approached. A 42-kilometre bike ride, when my most recent consistent stretch of exercise was the daily run for the bus, is a substantial distance. There was a strong possibility I’d be greeted by a sea of padded

“An e-bike ride sounded just the ticket: eight hours of cycling through an area of southern Germany known for its beautiful landscapes.”

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cycling shorts and sturdy calves. The only solace was that we would be on e-bikes. I’d never ridden one, but they had to be easier than pure pedal power.

Moments after stepping ashore to meet the group at Breisach, it was panic over. This was no Lycra fest. I clocked the guy with a handlebar moustache in jeans and hiking boots, and then all the others, guides included, in casual attire (and largely inappropriate footwear). We looked like we were off for a picnic, rather than an all-day jaunt on two wheels.

After a wobbly test loop of the car park to check I hadn’t defied the old “you never forget how to ride a bike” adage, I listened in as guides Lydia and Nick talked through the plan for the day, took our lunch orders, and explained the bike settings: “‘Trail’ is nice for the flats. Choose Turbo for the hills. Use Turbo the whole way if you like, but you’ll likely run your battery down.”

Turns out e-bikes do not charge as you cycle – who knew?

We were off, snaking into a single file; Nick at the front, Lydia at the back. The Trail setting required so little effort that it seemed too lazy to start on, so I popped it into the lowest setting (Eco) and remained there for the first half of the day. It was a wonderful start, following a flat, traffic-free path along the river banks.

Leaving the Rhine behind, we snaked onto a woodland track, keeping eyes peeled for the wild pigs, deer and woodpeckers we were told roamed these parts. Wild garlic scented the air, and the call of wood pigeons, crunch of wheels over twigs and giggles of the mischievous few zooming past in Sport mode provided the soundtrack.

We emerged at the other end to find a babbling brook, then on to sprawling farmland flats where young strawberry plants grew under the warm comfort of plastic; white asparagus was being plucked from beneath the ground by hand, and green asparagus protruded confidently from earthy mounds.

After an hour we pulled into a farm shop and café, where we chose our elevenses from a glass cabinet of homemade bakes. It had to be a giant slab of Black Forest gateau for me. Creamy, kirsch-soaked layers of light chocolate sponge; it was by far the best I’ve ever had.

By 1pm, we’d zipped through many a charming village, past a community honesty garden bursting with vivid tulips and a 12th-century castle bordered by Bacchus vines. We stopped for selfies next to an enormous and (as the chuckles confirmed) rather phallic sculpture of an asparagus, before arriving in picturesque Staufen. Lunch was served at a 14thcentury tavern famed for being the former laboratory of Doctor Faust. Goat cheese salads for some, hearty turkey and BIKING IN GERMANY

Postcard-perfect

Left, from top: The pretty town of Staufen; Viking Freya sails past vineyards on the Rhine river.

Cruise&Travel

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Book it

An eight-day Rhine Getaway cruise with Viking between Basel and Amsterdam includes six guided tours. Cruises depart throughout March to November and are priced from AU$2995 per person.

Eat your cake and burn it off, too

From top: No trip to southern Germany is complete without Black Forest cake; the Pied Piper of Hamelin; shady laneways in the Black Forest.

mash for others; tall frothy glasses of Weissbier for all, while Nick regaled us with tales of the local legend.

Sufficiently fuelled, we embarked on the second half of the ride, starting as we were warned it would continue, with a steadily growing ascent until we reached a tiny village marking the start of the Black Forest. We were encouraged to take on some water and put our bikes into Turbo, and, as we got steeper, to Sport.

Up and around we went, following our guides like the children of Hamelin, captivated by the Black Forest magic and effortlessly eating through inclines that would usually have had me huffing and puffing. Curvaceous green meadows dipped down to winding streams, hugged by stone bridges that looked as though they sheltered a troll or two. Fairytale farmhouses, the ding of goats grazing, and birds twittering melodically in surround sound: I half-expected to pass brightly coloured toadstools and a wolf in red clothing.

The feeling when we pulled up to our final destination, a family-run organic farm and restaurant in Bollschweil, was one of giddy accomplishment: 42 kilometres, even with e-assistance, is a good distance. After a short tour to meet the Limousin cows and their calves, we settled into a barn for some homemade bread and butter, freshly pressed apple juice and black cherry schnapps. A final “prost!” to the fantastic journey we’d ridden together, before bidding farewell to our e-chariots, and hopping on the coach back to the boat in time for drinks. CT 91

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Voyage

O

ur group was wrapped in padded jackets, thick scarves and bobble hats as we headed for the summit.

The sun had yet to begin its ascent, but birds were already chirping in the pine forest below.

I’d peeled myself from my ship cabin at 4.30am for a daybreak hike up Europe’s tallest sand dune. About 100 metres high and 500 metres wide, Dune du Pilat looks as if a sliver of the Sahara has been chipped away and transplanted to the coast of southwest France. I could picture a camel caravan shuffling over the rippled surface, each rider’s head swaddled against the wind.

By the time I’d reached the crest, the horizon was still a bluish-grey. The chirrups of the dawn chorus built to a crescendo as we watched the sun break to the east.

This experience, part of a Uniworld river voyage, was as incongruous with a typical cruise holiday as the dunes are with the surrounding landscape. And yet my four-day trip offered enough variety to win over the most reluctant of cruisers.

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TRÈS CHIC

This first-time passenger gets her fill of champagne, grand chateaux and spectacular fine dining on a river cruise in south-west France, writes Emma Featherstone.

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Translating Jean-Paul’s commentary was Sarah Seguret, an Irish guide who’d lived in Bordeaux for several years. She and Jean-Paul made for an amusing double-act. “Ah, so much detail; he likes his numbers!” she teased, before relaying Jean-Paul’s descriptions of the tons of concrete, the hours of work and the number of men that had gone into building a coastal fortification system that once included hundreds of bunkers.

Jean-Paul’s narration offered a valuable reminder of what France once endured. He was a mere boy during the Nazi occupation, yet he recalled locals being forced to help construct the bunkers. The repartee trod lightly over such a dark subject. We ventured into one bunker, torches in hand, and gathered around as Jean-Paul explained the former sleeping arrangements.

“You’re standing in the shower!” Sarah exclaimed, and I edged away from the spot where one-time residents washed off the poisonous gases of battle. Only a small group of us had chosen this excursion, but we were quick to share with other passengers how much we’d learned on our return to the ship.

By evening, spirits raised, a party mood had spread on board. It began with more champagne and a toast by Ellen Bettridge, Uniworld’s president and chief executive.

While the ship’s dress code was generally casual, this was an opportunity to get dolled up for a sumptuous meal in Le Grand Fromage. Dinner was timed to coincide with a particularly scenic portion of the voyage, and I marvelled as we floated past several grand chateaux.

Essence of France

Clockwise, from left: Aboard Bon Voyage, enjoy local specialties in Le Grand Fromage; relax in the elegant lobby; and take a dip in the infinity pool.

Two mornings earlier, my first full day on S.S. Bon Voyage – Uniworld’s tastefully opulent, 124 -guest Super Ship – started with a stroll into a 17th-century, UNESCO World-Heritagelisted fort overlooking the Gironde estuary.

Here, I sipped chilled champagne and ate Arcachon oysters.

It was quite the introduction to a break laden with culinary delights – soon after, it was time for a lunch of thin-crust pizza at Le Café du Soleil on the ship’s top deck.

That afternoon, I could choose between viticulture and history: a drive along the Médoc Chateaux Route would lead to either a winetasting session or a tour of German bunkers used in the Second World War. I opted for the latter, led by Jean-Paul Lescorce.

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Voyage I ate lemon sole with a poached egg, with a scoop of beetroot and walnut crumble that was shared by the table. To round things off, I chose chocolate gateau with raspberry sorbet. There was ample time to test out the wine menu, too.

Afterwards, passengers filed into Salon Champagne.

Here, electropop band Shine performed energetic covers, ranging from Aretha Franklin to Katy Perry. By 10pm, nearly every passenger was up and dancing.

Thankfully, the next day had a leisurely start: a stroll through the hilly village of St-Émilion. Our guide, Isabelle Avzey, delivered its potted history as we headed towards its Monolithic Church (which dates back to the 12th century), before leaving us spare time to explore. Our group flocked to the church roof for views of the surrounding vineyards. That night we ate dinner in the private dining room, La Cave des Vins.

Passengers pay extra for an evening in this mirrored space, art deco in style, and dine on a six-course menu with wine pairings. Arcachon oysters, served with rosé champagne, came first, followed by foie gras terrine, leek soup, a choice of lobster tail or lamb loin, a cheese board and a canelé with pistachio ice cream. I took my dessert, along with a coffee, and stole away to Salon Champagne, where a can-can performance had begun.

An after-dinner stroll around Bordeaux was well worth braving the chilly weather for. We’d moored just outside the Cité du Vin, Bordeaux’s wine museum. From there, a guide led us to Les Halles de Bacalan. It was a Friday night and this upmarket food hall was heaving with young people eating tapas and sipping wine. We met our ship a little farther down the Garonne and I headed back to my cabin, ready for a hike on my final day.

As I sat, cross-legged, on the brow of Dune du Pilat, I tried to crystallise the feeling of that sunrise in my memory; the warping caused by time could only detract from its splendour. A bolt of orange pierced the clouds before the full orb broke slowly into view.

As the sun climbed further in the sky, the temperature dropped slightly. Other hikers began to peel off, eager for the promised breakfast of freshly baked bread, croissants and coffee at the nearby Hotel Haaïtza.

Left among the stragglers, at first, I edged my way down the dune bank before breaking into a run. I leant back to avoid stumbling and let gravity pull me towards the water below. As my endorphins surged, I knew I’d fallen for river cruises. This would be my first of many. CT

UNIWORLD IN SOUTH-WEST FRANCE

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Book it

Uniworld Boutique River Cruises offers eight-day Brilliant Bordeaux cruises on S.S. Bon Voyage which are priced from $5299 per person, based on double occupancy.

The round-trip from Bordeaux is available March to October.

Go to uniworld.com for more details.

Just splendid!

“I MARVELLED AS WE FLOATED PAST SEVERAL GRAND CHATEAUX.”

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Clockwise, from above: The top deck’s lunchtime buffet; Salon Champagne; Bon Voyage docked at Libourne; La Cave des Vins; the ship’s Bordeaux deck.

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RIVERS OF THE WORLD CRUISE 2024

*Terms & conditions apply.

Lima to Saigon. 03 October 2024. From $77,799*pp 55 Days | 3 Continents | 4 Uniworld River Ships

Experience this once-in-a-lifetime world cruise, with unparalleled, all-inclusive luxury on four Uniworld river ships and spectacular land tours over 55 days, staying at some of the world’s finest hotels, culminating with a Grand Finale at Ho Chi Minh City’s breathtaking skyline.

• Exquisite five-star cuisine & unlimited premium beverages • Carefully curated excursions & exclusive private experiences • Dedicated Travelling Concierge for your entire journey • All internal flights, porterage and transfers throughout

This is a unique opportunity to get up close and personal with iconic destinations such as Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls, Copacabana Beach in Rio de Janeiro, historic wineries in Provence, private classical music concerts in Vienna, Halong Bay and Angkor Wat in Cambodia - all in one trip - and everything is taken care of in a small group of only 68 guests.

VISIT UNIWORLD.COM/AU | CALL 1300 780 231 | SEE YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

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Escapes 98 The big holiday | 110 Weekend in Buenos Aires | 114 Luxury ski report

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Tanzania

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Hotels & Resorts

Big, brash & braggable

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Luxury travel this year is all about extravagance – private islands, floating villas and decadence.

Louise Goldsbury indulges her senses.

t

his is the year that will see more people jetting around the world to fulfil their postponed holiday dreams. Overseas ski trips, heli-tours, private residences and ultra-luxe resorts with a unique twist are among the hottest trends.

According to Virtuoso, the leading global network of luxury travel advisors, the top five international cities booked by Australians and New Zealanders are Singapore, Honolulu, London, Paris and recently reopened Tokyo. The most popular countries include European favourites Italy, France, Spain and the Greek Islands, as well as the UK, the US, Japan, Thailand and South Africa. At the top of the list of domestic destinations for 2023 is Perth, followed by Broome and Darwin.

/ Branson’s new private island

One of the most exclusive options for high-level luxury travellers is Sir Richard Branson’s new private island in the Caribbean. Located across the sea from his legendary home on Necker Island, Moskito comprises 10 properties, three of which are now available for holiday rentals when the owners are not using them.

The Branson Estate has three Balinese-style villas, which sleep up to 22 guests. The Oasis Estate, whose owner remains anonymous, is a nine-bedroom home designed to resemble a yacht, with pools, firepits and a swim-up bar. The Point Estate is a collection of clifftop thatch-roofed cottages overlooking the British Virgin Islands.

Guests in each retreat can mingle in communal spaces such as the

Take the plunge

Clockwise, from left: Dubai’s Atlantis The Royal and the hotel’s Nobu by the Beach restaurant; Echo camp, Antarctica.

Beach Pavilion, while divers can explore the wreck of the Kodiak Queen, one of the surviving ships from the Pearl Harbor attack that has since been transformed into an underwater art installation.

Rates start at US$17,500 (AU$25,280) per night including meals, drinks, watersports and the services of an estate manager and a private chef. moskitoisland.virgin.com

/ Space-age camping on ice

Echo, a high-end camp inspired by astronauts, has been unveiled in Antarctica. The futuristic site comprises six sleeping pods with heating, panoramic windows, king beds, bathrooms and walls adorned with photos taken by a former International Space Station commander. A central hub houses a bar, dining room and library, connected by tunnels.

Between November and February, Echo is run by a team of 100 staff including pilots, polar guides, camp managers, doctors and chefs. The adventure begins in Cape Town for a safety briefing before boarding a Gulfstream G550 for a five-hour flight to the campsite’s ice runway. An eight-night program costs US$104,000 (about AU$150,245) per person, which includes an excursion to the South Pole. white-desert.com

/ Decadence in Dubai

Billed as “the most ultra-luxury experiential resort in the world”, Dubai’s Atlantis The Royal flexed its star power when Beyoncé performed at the opening party in January. The singer stayed in the 1,128-square-metre Royal Mansion, the world’s largest hotel suite, with four bedrooms, a private elevator and lobby, a library, an outdoor kitchen, an infinity pool and butler service. This penthouse is priced from US$100,000 (AU$144,465) per night, but the resort has another 795 rooms from US$850 (AU$1225).

Guests can choose between 17 restaurants run by chefs such as Nobu and Heston Blumenthal, ride Cruise &Travel

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Four more five-star hotels are opening along the coastline this year: St Regis, Park Hyatt, Four Seasons and the Hyatt Rancho Pescadero. The Vidanta East Cape, Amanvari and Soho House & Beach Club are expected to open in 2024. Set between mountains, desert, the Sea of Cortes and the Pacific Ocean, Los Cabos is known for its year-round sunshine, lively nightlife, outstanding spas, top-ranked golf courses and fresh-caught-seafood restaurants. visitloscabos.travel

/ Arizona’s desert delight

WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS ESCAPES

Just opened in February, the adults-only Ambiente is immersed in the breathtaking landscape of Sedona. Stay in one of 40 cube-shaped, glass-encased atriums with private rooftop decks and firepits – perfect for star-gazing or admiring the red rock scenery after a day of jeep tours, hot-air balloon rides, wine-tasting or e-biking. ambientesedona.com

more than 100 waterslides in a massive waterpark, swim with sea lions, surf in a wave pool or go ten-pin bowling on site. atlantis.com

/ All-inclusive safari in style

Earth Lodge, in Greater Kruger Park’s Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve, has emerged from a makeover.

One of South Africa’s most-renowned luxury lodges, this refurbished sanctuary offers new suites and a terrace lounge framed by a full-length pool, from where guests can view the wildlife. A stay at Earth Lodge includes all meals, drinks, private dinners in the bush, two safaris a day, and nature walks. sabisabi.com/lodges/earth-lodge

/ Tahiti’s first floating villa

A yet-to-be-named houseboat in Bora Bora is to be launched this year by Elyt Charter Tahiti. Inspired by ancient Polynesian voyaging canoes and their overwater lifestyle, this solar-powered catamaran is a significant upgrade with four bedrooms, two bathrooms, a rooftop lounge, a kitchen and dining area, and a water-treatment facility. The absence of a diesel engine makes it silent and less disruptive to the lagoon’s marine life. Renting the floating villa costs €1,500 per night (about AU$2460). www.elytchartertahiti.com

Top tier

Clockwise, from above: Ambiente in Arizona; InterContinental Hayman Island Residences; Elyt water-villa; Earth Lodge, South Africa; Aman jet tours.

/ Wintjiri Wiru at Uluru

A spectacular new experience is coming to the Northern Territory from May. Presented every night of the year, Wintjiri Wiru will be the largest light, laser, projection and drone show performed on a regular basis anywhere in the world, with 1000 illuminated drones lighting up the outback sky in a modern expression of an ancient Anangu story.

The local custodians of the land were closely involved in the project, which combines a traditional Inma soundtrack and narration in the Pitjantjatjara language. The signature experience is a three-hour Wintjiri Wiru Sunset Dinner ($385 per person) on the dunes, starting with cocktails and canapes while the sun sets over Kata Tjuta and Uluru, followed by a hamper of native foods paired with premium Australian wines. The show can be added to a stay at Longitude 31 or Sails in the Desert. ayersrockresort.com.au

/ Mexican wave of waterfront resorts

The luxe beachside playground of Los Cabos is home to the first Waldorf Astoria in Mexico and Zadún, one of five Ritz-Carlton Reserve properties in the world.

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“ELTON JOHN AND HIS FAMILY SPENT THE NEW YEAR AT INTERCONTINENTAL HAYMAN ISLAND’S RESIDENCES – THEY CAN ONLY BE REACHED BY BOAT OR HELICOPTER.” / Privacy in the Whitsundays

Elton John and his family spent the new year at InterContinental Hayman Island’s Residences – they can only be reached by boat or helicopter. The private retreats are on a hilltop overlooking the Whitsundays.

All self-contained residences have four bedrooms with a wraparound balcony, a barbecue area and an infinity pool. Guests also have access to the resort’s 24-hour gym, spa, restaurants and bars, and they can book private charters to Whitehaven Beach or the Great Barrier Reef. haymanisland.intercontinental.com

/ Aman jet expeditions

As the private-jet obsession continues to soar, Aman has released more amazing itineraries revolving around its high-end accommodation. Departing in April 2023, a 19-night journey dips into the diverse cultures surrounding six Aman hotels in six countries. Up to 12 guests will be whisked from Kyoto, Japan to the Philippines and Indonesia before flying to Oman, Turkey and Morocco. More round-the-world, jet-setting adventures are available throughout the year. aman.com CT Cruise &Travel

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Cool (rich) cats

Return to the snow Many people haven’t seen snow since 2019, which means icy escapes are hot this year. A helicopter is the preferred mode of transport for those seeking untouched slopes. Eleven Experience has a new heli-skiing program in the Chilean Andes, based at the sevensuite Rio Palena Lodge, while luxury adventure specialist Pelorus offers a backcountry skiing trip in Denali, Alaska. elevenexperience.com; pelorusx.com Aspen adds alpine fun Aspen, renowned as the ski destination of the stars, has added the AspenX range of exclusive activities. The Buckhorn Cabin Elevated Experience is an apres-ski celebration held at 3285 metres. Guests ski to the alpine cabin for lunch and then depart on a snowcat. There’s also an opportunity

for a private dinner at the Aspen Mountain Club (usually reserved for members) after the ski resort has closed, before returning to Aspen by riding down the Silver Queen gondola under the moonlight.

Summer options include a hike and dine, or fly fish and dine. aspenx.com

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My Life In Travel

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“Forged from black volcanic rock, the island feels both powerful and modest.”

GIORGIO ARMANI wasn’t impressed when he first arrived on Pantelleria, ‘the black pearl’ of the Mediterranean. But the Italian island has since become the fashion legend’s summer refuge.

It was 30 years ago that I went to

Pantelleria for the first time to visit a friend, and, honestly, I did not like it at all. It seemed to me nothing more than a desolate, backward island with nothing exciting to offer. But then, contemplating that uncontaminated nature, I fell in love with its wild charm.

Places have their own personality.

The island still has its natural beauty, and the delicate yet pungent scent of caper flowers hangs heavily in the air. The sea is not a priority here: it is the light and the rugged terrain that play a central role. Forged from black volcanic rock, the island feels both powerful and modest at the same time. It’s thanks to this magical combination I can relax.

What really made my heart skip a beat was the ancient fishing

village of Cala Gadir. Here I found three dammusi for sale, the typical local houses made of lava stone, held together by earth and water and featuring a white domed roof.

I bought them in 1981 and turned them into this house, which over time has become an estate. It now includes two main central areas with an open-air living room, dining room and seven dammusi.

I have worked particularly hard on the garden, creating an oasis around my home. For the interiors, I’ve chosen fresh and delicate colours, but there’s no white, except for the ceilings. I went for blue, green and cream tones, which relax the eye when the light from outside is blinding. It felt natural to include some Armani/Casa furnishings: the clean, modern lines complement the exoticism of the island.

I consider Pantelleria my summer

refuge, the place where I really get

Island hideaway

Opposite: Giorgio Armani on Pantelleria. This page: The natural attractions of the island reveal themselves over time.

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away from it all and recharge. It’s where I usually spend the month of August. But I try to visit the island any chance I get, and sometimes I’ve even come for Christmas.

It’s beautiful in the winter, all green and blooming. I’ll ride around it on a moped, going up and down the little roads, through the woods, admiring the iridescent shades of the Lago di Venere, a mineral-rich thermal pool within the island’s national park, where you can also take a mud bath. It’s an incredible feeling of freedom.

A typical day for me here is very

simple. It usually starts at 7.30am with an intense, two-kilometre walk along the Sentiero Romano to exercise. It’s one of my favourite hiking trails. The road was previously frequented, as the name suggests, by the ancient Romans, as evidenced by the large slabs on which you walk.

Strolling along it gives you a sense of history, while being surrounded by nature.

After that, I like to meet up for breakfast with my guests, family and friends. Then we go out to sea in my dinghy for a swim, then return for lunch around 3pm. The Arco dell’Elefante bay will always be one of the most special places on the island to swim. In the late afternoon, we sometimes go to the local market or watch a film.

One of my favourite restaurants is Il Principe e il Pirata [The Prince and the Pirate] in Punta Karace. I like to dine here, both for the menu and for the beautiful view you can enjoy from its tables.

Around six o’clock in the evening, I like to go to Officina, on the Coste Ghirlanda estate, for an aperitif while enjoying the sunset over the island. The Gelateria Katia on the seafront in the village of Pantelleria makes an exceptional granita.

I love life on this island. I don’t know many of the year-round

locals by name, but when we meet, we chat as if we were old friends. As harsh and delicate as the island, they are its true guardians. On Pantelleria, I have time to see friends, without any commitments. I have time to read, exercise or just admire the landscape: it’s a way of escaping the hectic pace of everyday life.

Furnishing the villa has been a long process, which in a way is never finished because I like to add new things, vintage pieces or market finds. It’s furnished with comfortable sofas, low tables and a series of modern and ethnic objects in silver, wood and unusual materials – souvenirs of travels and Christmas gifts. I dedicated one of my first design pieces to Pantelleria: a chair made of woven wicker, named after the island and a constant presence in the house.

The Oasis terrace is my favourite place. I like being outdoors, under palm trees, in the middle of all that greenery. I have gardens in all my homes, but this one is really special, with the wind and the proximity to the sea.

Meals are always outdoors, including dinner, in different areas of the house, depending on the wind and weather, from the Arabian garden, when it is cooler, to the Oasis terrace, when the weather is sultry. My favourite memories are of sunset dinners at home, surrounded by loved ones and in a convivial and relaxed atmosphere, dining on pantesca pasta with almond pesto and tuma, the island’s local sheep fresh cheese – simple and genuine dishes with an unforgettable flavour. CT 103

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On safari

GONE BUSH Author Kathy Lette swaps book clubs for the bush and goes in search of the big five. or women, life is in two acts – the trick is surviving the interval. But once you get through menopause (when you sweat more than Liz Truss doing sudoku) and your progeny fly the nest (out the door by 24, kiddos!) we hard-working girls can put ourselves first for the first time in our lives. All we need to do now is to go forth and be fabulous. Our aim is simple – to build a life we don’t need a vacation from – as long as it includes some great vacations. I mean, if not now, when? A Zimmer frame would somewhat cramp a gal’s style on a scuba in Cuba.

And older women are adventurous. A recent survey by the JourneyWoman travel website discovered that last year 77 per cent of all bookings for companies specialising in female travel came from solo travellers aged 55-plus – proving that exploration is not just for the likes of Bear Grylls and Benedict Allen. Or just the young. The luxury solo travel market has also had the biggest shift in the 65-plus category, particularly with female travellers craving adventure before dementia kicks in.

Of course, psychologists maintain that the most effective way to stave off cognitive decline is to get out of your comfort zone and tackle new challenges . . . which is why I found myself hiking through Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Conservation Area into an extinct volcano with a rifle-toting ranger.

Clambering up through the acacia forest that blankets the rim of the Olmoti Crater, my guide explained that the aim of almost every safari is to see the “big five” – elephants, lions, buffalo, leopards and rhinos. If I’d been in my natural habitat – at book club – I’d be encountering the literary big five: Salman 104

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On watch

Wild elephants in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

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“I FOUND MYSELF HIKING THROUGH TANZANIA’S NGORONGORO CONSERVATION AREA INTO AN EXTINCT VOLCANO WITH A RIFLE-TOTING RANGER. ”

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On safari

TANZANIA

Rushdie, Margaret Atwood, Kazuo Ishiguro, Chimamanda “A Jeep safari is like watching a film,” my ranger Ngozi Adichie, Arundhati Roy . . . But no. I was traipsing enthused, clocking my rapturous expression, On tour in Tanzania through a carnivore-encrusted jungle; my only weapon a “but a walking safari is like reading the book.”

Clockwise, from above right: sharp tongue.

Masai warriors dancing; y next “bookish” experience was in I was so busy making cutting remarks to a dive-bombing Tarangire National Park’s Tarangire National Park, 200 kilometres insect that I didn’t spot the spots. The ranger put a “shhh” wildlife includes giraffes, south of Ngorongoro. When my guide suggested a finger to his lips, then pointed at a polka-dot pelt cheetahs and monkeys. walk by the lake – a lake where lions lie in wait to shimmering in the sun-dappled shadows just feet from pounce upon thirsty prey – to say I felt a tad nervous was the the path. Unsurprisingly, my life as a bookworm has left me curiously illbiggest understatement since Nadhim Zahawi said “I may have equipped to deal with a leopard in the wild. Frozen to the spot, all I could do made a careless tax error”. But remembering my mantra to push was gawp while my heart started a frantic drum solo. The face I turned to myself out of my comfort zone, I strapped on my hiking boots. the park ranger had the look of a woman whose life-support system has just “Anything I should know before setting out?” I asked, trying been turned off. But he nonchalantly tapped the barrel of his gun and the not to squeal like a lost kitten. “Yes,” the ranger said, grinning and leopard, casting a glance our way, slunk insouciantly into the shadows. “You loading bullets into his rifle. “If an elephant charges you – pray.” see? Quite friendly,” my guide smiled.

As I crabbed along, sandwiched between two armed guides, my “Really? I suspect leopards have too many claws for a supposedly friendly head swivelled from side to side, scouring the bushes for irascible nature,” I retorted, cattily. My instinct was to climb the nearest tree, but the pachyderms. Circling vultures swooped ominously overhead. I forest suddenly opened onto the breathtaking vista of the crater. Emerald was so far out of my comfort zone it wouldn’t even register on my green pastures, gurgling streams, the musical chiming of cowbells – for a psychological sat-nav. I should have been sorting my spice rack disorientating moment I thought I was in Austria. But the tall, thin men alphabetically or splashing energetically to a thundering disco wandering across the crater floor below were not lonely goatherds, but rendition of Girls Just Want To Have Fun in my water aerobics spear-wielding Masai, grazing their cattle as they have done for centuries.

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3 safaris with Abercrombie & Kent Visions of Kenya

Discover Kenya’s most iconic sights on this fabulous safari that whisks you from the flamingo-flecked soda lakes of the Great Rift Valley to the enormous Loisaba wildlife conservancy and the world-famous Masai Mara.

The journey concludes with two full days of rest and relaxation by the glittering waters of the Indian Ocean. Throughout the game-viewing portion of this trip, stay in atmospheric tented camps that capture the adventure and romance of a bygone era. Be guided by the best in the business, from local Samburu trackers to Maasai warriors. Your final home away from home is an idyllic five-star resort at the heart of a marine sanctuary.

Details: 13 days, all-inclusive from $19,210 per person.

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Best of Zambia

Marvel at the awe-inspiring Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, before embarking on an outstanding wilderness experience in the South Luangwa, home of the ‘walking safari’. The area is widely considered one of Africa’s finest and most unspoiled wildlife reserves and it makes for an exciting contrast with the Lower Zambezi where you’ll see game from safari vehicles, get up close on foot and float gently past herds that frequent the river and its banks. Unspoilt natural beauty and abundant game make these two areas unparalleled for a wildlife adventure.

Details: 11 days, all-inclusive from $17,450 pp.

wildlife, high peaks, ancient craters, great lakes and a rich tribal culture. Gaze over the endless plains of the Serengeti ecosystem, where the annual wildebeest migration plays out, and clamber through the primate-rich forest of the Mahale Mountains. Descend into the vast Ngorongoro Crater, its own captivating wildlife arena, and soak up the Arab influences on exotic Zanzibar. Discover the lesser-known swathes of the Selous Game Reserve and scale the icy summit of Kilimanjaro.

Details: 9 days, all-inclusive from $12,740 pp.

Tanzania Under Canvas

Home to Africa’s largest game reserve, highest mountain, deepest lake and most extraordinary wildlife spectacle, Tanzania is a captivating African microcosm and ripe for adventure. It is a country of astounding contrasts offering exceptional, unforgettable experiences around every sun-drenched corner, teeming with extraordinary

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On safari

Tread lightly

Clockwise, from right: Hiking into Olmoti Crater; wildlife in the Ngorongoro Crater; jeep safari in Tarangire National Park, Tanzania.

class. I even found myself thinking fondly of my oven, which needed cleaning.

But as we moved silently through the grass, the warm wind made the dangling branches of the ancient, sun-sequinned baobab trees dance.

Giraffes periscoped their long necks up above the trees at our approach and zebras and gazelles gambolled gaily. The majesty of the sweeping savannah had just begun to work its relaxing magic when we rounded a thicket and walked smack-bang into a big bull elephant. The tusked mammoth stared at us with haughty disdain. We were close enough to see the heat rippling off its thick hide and feel the breeze from his beating ears.

“If he charges,” the ranger whispered, “just clap your hands and shout to look bigger.” I shot him a narrow-eyed, sarcastic, sideways look. This advice sounded about as effective as standing up to Vladimir Putin with a pavlova. When the elephant then trumpeted in my direction, I didn’t want to clap my hands. I wanted to make like an ostrich and bury my quivering head in the sand. Following the ranger’s example, I slowly retreated – right back into my comfort zone. Who cared about increasing cognitive ability? For my next safari, I opted to hang up my hiking books and ride in a nice safe Jeep.

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ore than a third of Tanzania is conserved as national parks and game reserves, meaning much of the country is one big smorgasbord of lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas, jackals and other wild and wondrous creatures hunting, munching and lunching on each other. It gives a new definition to “fast food”.

After an enthralling morning driving past the entire cast of The Lion King, I was just getting a bit peckish when I glanced up at a tree and realised that I was lunch. There are many reasons for sudden religious conversion – the chief being staring into the hazel eyes of a hungry lioness, lounging on a branch a few feet from your head. Turns out a Jeep safari isn’t a safer option. It just makes you into meals on wheels. The big cat stretched, dropped gracefully to the ground and padded straight past me; clearly a case of professional courtesy. I mean, as a cougar I’m definitely part of the cat family, right?

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Even more terrifying than the salivating incisors of various prairie predators were the sleeping arrangements. I am not a camping kinda gal. To me, “camping” is what Alan Carr does on his chat show. In Tanzania, the camps I stayed in were unfenced. With nothing but a flimsy bit of netting between me and the king of the jungle, how could I possibly not feel tense about tents? When a spear-wielding Masai warrior arrived, you know, just to escort me to dinner, to ensure that I didn’t become an animal entrée en route, I glanced at his weapon with scepticism. But I needn’t have worried – the Masai have an encyclopaedic knowledge of the bush.

The safari tents of the camps proved chic and cosily comfy. Lying snug in a soft bed, well guarded by warriors, listening to the deep throaty roar of prowling lions felt exhilarating. I didn’t miss those luxurious hotels either.

After all, if I wanted five stars, all I had to do was look up.

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o, after six days of safari adventure, what did I discover? I learnt that a cackle of hyenas running towards you is no laughing matter. I learnt that when the guide points out there’s a python right next to you it’s not a sudden sighting of Eric Idle. I learnt that cape buffalos have some serious anger management issues and that elephants eat for 22 hours a day. I learnt that, in the awe-inspiring natural wonder that is the UNESCO-listed Ngorongoro Crater, endangered black rhinos are not the reclusive, elusive Greta Garbos of the animal world; I encountered five in one day. I learnt that I’m braver and more intrepid than I thought. But mostly I learnt how lucky I am to be having a sensational second act.

This fact was driven home to me at Ngorongoro’s Doffa Bike Shop where some of the local women are also finding a new lease on life, thanks to tour operator Abercrombie & Kent’s philanthropy project. The bike shop trains single mums living with HIV to be mechanics. The thousands of donated bicycles they fix go on to mobilise whole communities, helping nurses to see more patients, kids get to school and women go to market. Of the 46 projects in 24 countries that Abercrombie & Kent runs to support local communities, this is their most successful to date, with 15,214 bikes now empowering women across Africa. I joined five of the female mechanics for a ride around the town. For me, this was a cooler bikie gang than the Hells Angels.

Taking on new challenges in Tanzania definitely got my synapses zinging and put off the need for a seniors sat-nav (the kind of device that gets you to your destination . . . then reminds you why the hell you wanted to go there in the first place). Not only did I get up close to the big five, I also got to drink in spectacular vistas, befriend the most charismatic guides, learn to paddle a canoe and digitally detox every night by watching bush TV (the open fire).

Palate-pleasing cuisine and elegant safari tents meant that my adventures took me out of my comfort zone, but comfortably.

Best of all, my guides kept stressing the importance of staying hydrated in the heat, but neglected to specify which liquids. I didn’t want to disobey orders, so chose a deliciously buttery South African chardonnay. Bottoms ups, girls! CT Cruise &Travel

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TANZANIA

“THERE ARE MANY REASONS FOR SUDDEN RELIGIOUS CONVERSION – THE CHIEF BEING STARING INTO THE HAZEL EYES OF A HUNGRY LIONESS, LOUNGING ON A BRANCH A FEW FEET FROM YOUR HEAD. ”

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Don’t try to leave, Argentina

I

’m busily packing some last-minute shopping when a note from reception is pushed under my hotel room door. “We are so sorry – but we can’t book a cab to the airport at your appointed time, as Argentina is playing in the World Cup and no driver wants to miss the match. Could you perhaps leave earlier, as we’ve found a driver who can then watch the match at the airport?”

My weekend in Buenos Aires has so far been a joy. And I’m willing to accommodate this nation where huge portraits of football heroes like Maradona – the god of the game – adorn high-rise buildings and where team captain Lionel Messi is a GOAT. It turns out to be just as well. By the time I arrive at Ezeiza International Airport there is almost no-one to be seen. I am quickly checked in by staff watching their mobile phones, and the buildings are eerily empty.

Suddenly, the departures hall echoes with cheers as a goal is scored.

The rest is World Cup history. It really speaks to the passion of this great nation that nothing gets in the way of the game.

I’m in the Argentinian capital en route to a Viking cruise to Antarctica.

Latam Airways stops here en route to the southernmost tip of the country, Ushuaia – and I’m glad they do.

I’m staying at the Sofitel Buenos Aires Recoleta – smack-bang in the centre of one of the best districts in the city, within walking distance of great designer shops, a restaurant strip, a Saturday art market and the graveyard where Eva Peron is buried.

The five-star hotel with 175 rooms is a five-minute drive from Museo Nacional De Arte Decorativo and Teatro Colon, the Obelisco and MALBA, the Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires. Across the road is a shopping arcade with a food hall and restaurants that quickly show you what’s on offer – from beautiful ham to fabulous steak (of course!).

Recoleta is a barrio, or neighbourhood, in the north with some of the ritziest real estate, known for Parisian-style townhouses and posh boutiques. Buenos Aires is Argentina’s big, cosmopolitan capital city. Its centre is the Plaza de Mayo, lined with stately 19th-century buildings including Casa Rosada, the iconic, balconied presidential palace. Other major attractions include Teatro Colón, a grand 1908 opera house with nearly 2,500 seats, and the modern MALBA displaying Latin American art.

Over 15 million people live here, and with an area In a whirl of colour of 200 square kilometres it’s one of the world’s Clockwise, from biggest metropolises. left: Doing the Take a walk in the arts district of La Boca, where tango outside El if you’re lucky, you’ll witness some street dancing Viejo Almacén; among the sculptures and colourful houses.

MALBA museum, We spend one night in the Hilton Buenos Aires, a Buenos Aires; the new property in the newly renovated riverside neighbourhood of La Boca. district of Puerto Madero, just a 10-minute walk

(At least not during a soccer match!)

Argentinians understand the essentials of life: football, tango, food, football and fun. Peter Lynch spends a few days in Buenos Aires.

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BUENOS AIRES

We loved

The hotel: The Sofitel Buenos Aires Recoleta is in a great location with rooms starting at $654 a night. See all.accor.com.

The tour: Our Red Bus Tour was US$30 (about AU$43).

See grayline.com

from the Women’s Bridge and one kilometre from fine arts museum Coleccion de Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat.

We walk to some of the local restaurants on the riverbank and take a stroll through the city in the evening to see the sites.

I take a three-hour Red Bus tour of the city.

My bus leaves at 3pm, which turns out to be the perfect time, taking in the last of the day and the beginnings of the city at night.

It’s a great way to get your bearings, and worth every cent. I knew exactly which destinations I wanted to revisit.

But our highlight was thanks to the Sofitel.

I’m keen to see one of the city’s famous tango clubs – but, of course, I want the experience to be authentic.

They gave me a list of five – but recommended El Viejo Almacén, a restaurant and tango bar in the San Telmo district, about 20 minutes away.

I’m glad they did. There are 179 tango bars

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Recoleta sights

Clockwise, from above: Plaza Naciones Unidas; the Sofitel Buenos Aires; the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo.

The tango show: El Viejo Almacén is a restaurant and tango bar in the San Telmo neighbourhood. Dinner and show cost US$75 (about AU$105). See secretsof buenosaires.com

listed on Tripadvisor alone, so choosing without help is a lottery. But their recommendation turned out to be precisely what I was looking for. And to top it all – it was among the cheapest.

Why did I like it? First, the club picked me up in a coach along with a number of other passengers, including many Argentinians (I’m heartened – if they think the dancing is good, it must be pretty special!).

Second, the sirloin strip steak dinner with dulce de leche dessert (a famed South American concoction made by simmering milk and sugar very slowly so it turns into a caramelised cream) was delicious. It came with generous glasses of Argentinian Malbec.

Third, as we walked across the road to the famous tango house which has been operating for more than half a century, there is a buzz of excitement. I’m given a seat on the second storey overlooking the small stage at 9.30pm.

Soon the club’s quintet of two accordions, a violin, drummer and pianist strike up the familiar tango refrain. And for the next two hours, we are treated to an array of singers – some famed Tango vocalists who draw rousing cheers from the crowd of over 100 – and tango by four young couples whose lithe, supple bodies dressed in cocktail dresses and tuxedoes produced that amazing, alluring magic through solos, set and dress changes.

I was once awarded a certificate for the most promising newcomer at a tango class on Cunard’s Queen Mary – it was a token issued in sympathy for my pathetic, flat-footed attempts to master possibly the sexiest dance steps on Earth.

Tango originated here – so no surprises Argentinians treat it like a religion and are very good at it. Many believe seeing it on the streets is enough – but don’t be fooled. A real tango club is sublimely different and sensationally sensual.

We left the club after midnight, as the young dancers and their musicians, now dressed in jeans and T-shirts, set off for a nightcap.

And now the fourth reason I was happy with my evening: there was our bus, ready to take us back to our hotel.

South America has a pretty grim reputation for street crime. Look up Buenos Aires on the Australian government’s Smartraveller website and you’ll see all the warnings about bag snatches and more.

I’m glad I stayed in a good district – it’s worth the investment. And I didn’t take risks. If you do the same, you’ll be rewarded with a great South American experience. Just don’t try to leave when Argentina is playing football. CT Cruise &Travel

24/2/2023 12:02 pm

Flight review

LATAM

Carnival in the sky

The case for business class proved strong on this particular journey for Peter Lynch.

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e are setting out on a 12,000-kilometre journey to the most southern tip of the world. Our trip to Ushuaia, Argentina, involves four landings, three planes and 18 hours in the air.

It’s a punishing schedule for any airline. But this took place at the height of the lost luggage crisis, cancellations on a whim and airport chaos across the globe.

To say we were concerned is an understatement. Every item of luggage is air-tagged, and I am braced for fruitless hours spent in airport lounges. I am carrying a book as thick as a doorstop to while away the wasted hours.

But none of that happened.

Indeed, on the journey back, the Qantas flight from Buenos Aires was cancelled, stranding many of my colleagues, while our Latam Boeing 737 took off on schedule.

More Australians are tackling this trip, which explains why Latam – the airline of Chile – is a favourite of adventure companies.

After all, if you’re travelling to somewhere as exciting as South America, why not get into the grove from the moment the wheels are up and taste the carnival atmosphere?

Latam flies from Sydney via Auckland. It’s an arduous journey Cruise &Travel

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to Ushuaia. Not surprisingly, we chose to fly business class. Here’s what we found: / The flight Latam flies from Sydney via Auckland, Santiago, Buenos Aires and finally on to Ushuaia. LA 800 leaves Sydney at 11.25am and arrives in Auckland at 4.35pm local time – it’s a flight of just over 3 hours. After an almost two-hour layover – we go to a lounge – we’re off at 6.30pm for the nearly 11-hour flight to Santiago, Chile, and then it’s a two-hour hop to Buenos Aires. It’s a trek and keeping you happy is a test for any airline.

We chose to pay for Premium Business – the lure of lounges and lie-flat bed was too much to resist.

/ The seat Once again, my heartfelt thanks to the inventor of the lie-flat seat.

Latam’s seats have a mattress-like cover and a duvet, lots of leg room, slippers and a toiletry bag by Thomas Olivos filled with hand cream, a facemask, a toothbrush set and socks. Slippers are provided.

There are fast-charging USB ports and a universal 110-volt plug – but no Wi-Fi. The mattress is of a NASA-developed material that regulates temperature, ensures airflow and calms the body’s pressure points during sleep. It works a treat. I sleep like a top. / The food We are served slow-cooked beef in red wine sauce and vegetables, cheese and a popular tapioca-style dessert with coconut which pops up several times during the journey.

Breakfast is an omelette and tomatoes, with fruit and yogurt.

South America has some of the best red wine anywhere and Héctor Vergara, the only master sommelier in Latin America, doesn’t let us down with his selections. I can recommend the Chilean 2017 Syrah. / The entertainment It’s an odd complaint I know – the legroom is a boon but it meant the screen was a long way off. The headphones didn’t seem to offer noise-cancelling, but I always carry my own Sony MDR 1000X – an oldie but a goodie. The flight

carried most of the latest movies, TV shows, music and games. I would have loved an introduction to South America, but instead, as we were going to Antarctica, I settled in for David Attenborough’s Frozen Planet II. / The lounges Latam has partner lounges in Auckland – in this airport, if you’re not in the Air New Zealand lounge, you’re nowhere. Santiago has a showpiece lounge, as befitting Latam’s home city, with great food and plenty of space, showers, work areas, Wi-Fi and power. The Buenos Aires lounge has all you need for a late-night take-off. / The service Our Latam crew are distinctly South American – upbeat, pleasant and helpful. They are attentive at mealtimes and well-versed in how to deal with passengers like me who can’t work the bed. Their uniform is very South America – tight trousers and short jackets. CT

Verdict

This is a particularly arduous fight, and Latam managed it well given that many airlines were making cancellations and losing luggage due to staff shortages.

Our journey was uneventful – in a good way – compared to some who travelled the same route. I was very happy to see my battered cases come through the carousel intact and on time. The investment in business class was an excellent one.

/ The plane You may remember the Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner – they were the fly-by-sire sensation grounded for months after a couple of deadly crashes. Now, they are one of the world’s most popular and the plane, which carries about 300 passengers is modern, airy and pleasant.

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Ski Report

Skiing with the super-rich The ultra-wealthy spare no expense on the slopes, with the latest must-haves including private jets, bullet-proof chalets and skiing butlers, writes Gabriella Le Breton.

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here’s no denying that, for many of us, these are straitened times. But for the super-rich, the urge to run for the snow-capped mountains of the Alps is greater than ever – skiing has never been so in vogue.

The luxury winter holiday market is booming. Bookings for ultra-glamorous chalets, with starting prices over €25,000 and rising to €620,000 per week, are flourishing. VistaJet, which offers members access to a fleet of more than 360 aircraft, saw demand for private jet travel from the UK to Austria, France and Switzerland more than double (up 62 per cent) last winter.

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A surge in long-term luxury rentals, of a few weeks or more, is also growing apace. “There’s been such an influx of international visitors placing their children in the local private school here that a second one, the ski-in/ski-out Copperfield International School, opened in January 2021. Both are oversubscribed despite annual fees of CHF40,000 (AU$62,600),” says Tom Avery, founder of the specialist operator Ski Verbier Exclusive, which caters to guests looking to temporarily relocate to the snow.

Ski holidays have always appealed to the highest echelons of society, as Rupert Longsdon, founder of the specialist travel agency Oxford Ski, explains: “There’s nothing new in the global elite choosing to make the Alps their winter lifestyle destination. From St Moritz in the 1920s and Megève in the 1960s to Courchevel, Lech Ski in style and Verbier today, Alpine hotels and chalets simply Clockwise, from supersede most other destinations in terms of luxury and left: Chalet Trois service.”

Couronnes in Yet the five-star-plus ski holiday is evolving. Back in the Verbier, 1980s, the average cost of a ski holiday from the UK was Switzerland; about AU$400 and luxury operators could match a group taking on the of skiers with a smart catered chalet for some AU$17,000, slopes; children learn young. throw in a day’s heliskiing and bottomless champagne Cruise&Travel

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Ski Report and leave them to it, with no complaints. Today’s ultrawealthy require luxury touches to be added at every turn of their winter holiday, and their craziest whims to be fulfilled, with price tags to match. / The new normal Yesterday’s exceptional has become today’s norm: in the world’s first self-described seven-star chalet, Chalet N in Lech, guests can expect a fleet of chauffeur-driven Land Rovers to scoop them up from the private jet airport at Innsbruck to deliver them to a world of bullet-proof windows, titanium cutlery, shower curtains fashioned from Swarovski crystals and pillows embroidered with their initials.

Just across the pistes, in the twin Arula Chalets, you’ll find spa walls crafted from Himalayan salt, a self-playing Steinway piano, a private ice rink and an army of staff working around the clock. Guests staying at the new Les Chalets Airelles in Courchevel will discover nightly turndown gifts of costly Guerlain cosmetics or Fusalp ski clothing, as well as a ski valet to place skis on the snow for guests each morning.

Sarah Sundstedt of the Alpine luxury operator Bramble Ski says: “Recent years have seen us adopt next-level service to tailor trips precisely to our clients’ very specific needs. We smooth every step of their journey, from unpacking their bags on arrival to packing them on departure, layering each item in gold tissue paper.”

Indeed, it now takes the delivery of tigers as the finishing touch for a party to raise a manicured eyebrow (yes, it did happen). Michelin-star chefs are helicoptered into chalets to whip up lunch, fresh grass is procured daily for the toileting needs of prized pet pooches and drone light shows own the night skies above sprawling chalets (much to the ire of Verbier’s locals). / Instructor or skiing butler?

An integral part of the ultra-luxury ski holiday experience is the pre-arrival concierge service, during which intimate personal preferences are shared with the chalet’s dedicated manager. It has become standard procedure in the top chalets to secure preferred tipples, restaurant tables, heli-skiing guides, yoga instructors and masseuses well before the arrival of guests.

In the most personal of touches, some residences offer guests the option of

LUXURY SKIING

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The rich’s winter playgrounds

Clockwise, from above: Bramble Ski Pro service; Verbier Mountain, Switzerland; the Daria chalet from Hip Hideouts; Daria exterior.

framed family photographs on bedside tables.

Unsurprisingly, the world’s top chalets are staffed by experts in the field of customer service – although many guests still insist on flying in their own staff. As Longsdon explains, exceptional service extends to the slopes, where instructors are often employed by a family year after year.

“The cream of the instructor crop might joke about being ski butlers, spending more time carrying their clients’ make-up and lunch outfit changes than teaching them to ski, but they become trusted members of their guests’ staff retinue.”

Founded by ski instructors, Bramble Ski tapped into this trend with its Bramble Ski Pro service.

This elite team is trained by the renowned Ecole Hôtelière Suisse in Lausanne, the pinnacle of hospitality management tuition. Instructors learn to become as adept at teaching ski drills as handling tycoon tantrums – they’re then at guests’ disposal for two days free of charge (worth over €1,000) when staying in a catered Bramble Ski property (prices from €27,820 per week). / Under the radar Channelling hipster New York and Shoreditch with its understated take on chalet life, with properties featuring slick interiors, quirky artworks and underground brands more typically found in members clubs in Hoxton, Hip Hideouts is well accustomed to hosting famous guests, who value the operator’s ability to deliver discretion, in Val d’Isère. As Caroline Mothersole, head of sales and marketing, explains: “Our clients now prize discrete family time, without any social media presence, above all else.”

She goes on to explain: “We’ll arrange an assistant to greet guests off their private jet, pass security control and usher them to their helicopter transfer up to Val. Once here, we work with the best local ski guides to whisk them through ski lift queues and to secluded tables at mountain restaurants. We regularly host A-listers here for a week or more without anybody noticing.”

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For those special occasions, when even the larger ultrachalets in the Alps can’t accommodate, the popular option is the hotel buy-out. As Longsdon explains: “With just 30 to 40 rooms, many Alpine hotels are the perfect size for these exclusive-use events, such as Le K2 Altitude in Courchevel and La Mourra Hotel Village in Val d’Isère. Guests looking to push the boat out will often work with a production company to choreograph a three-day extravaganza.” Wealthy hosts will splurge what Longsdon describes as “a seven-figure sum” for the privilege.

/ Blow-outs and buy-outs In the Swiss resort of Verbier, the polar explorer turned founding director of Ski Verbier Exclusive, Tom Avery, has become adept at arranging lavish experiences and blow-out parties in secret venues.

“As guests are staying longer, they’re embracing mountain life and culture in all its forms, with skiing becoming a secondary element of their trip,” he explains.

Avery regularly arranges for guests to tailor their own heli-picnic – taking a scenic helicopter flight around the Matterhorn before landing at 3,400 metres to feast on lobster, on a table carved from snow. With prices starting from CHF15,000 (AU$23,500) for two, for a 15-minute flight followed by champagne, cheese fondue and petit fours (add AU$17,500 for 500 grams of beluga caviar), it’s a modern take on classic Swiss culture.

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/ All the gear Skiing might have become a secondary activity for the superrich, but that’s not to say they’re willing to scrimp on kit, whether they use it or not. The hottest clothing story on the pistes this winter comes from a new collaboration between Fusalp and Swiss luxury watchmaker Zenith.

The French sportswear brand has designed a capsule Zenith wardrobe with ‘storm cuff’ sleeves on the ski jackets (from AU$2,750) – a zippered opening has been designed to facilitate the viewing of the wearer’s limited-edition Swiss Defy Classic Skeleton Fusalp watch (from CHF 9,900, about AU$15,500).

The A-list is donning gear from the Bomber x Bentley Ice Edition. Handcrafted in Italy, the skis (US$2,750) and carbon helmet (US$995) are adorned with Winged B badges and a pattern that echoes the tessellation of Bentley’s leather upholstery for a touch of home on the slopes. CT

“ The cream of the instructors joke about being ski butlers, spending more time carrying their clients’ lunch outfit changes than teaching them to ski.”

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Last Word

WAKE UP TO SLEEP TOURISM

You may not be conscious of it, but while you’re unconscious you could be experiencing the very latest tourism trend. Peter Lynch tries not to nod off.

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t had to happen. Tourism operators, anxious to spot the next Big Thing have realised there is something we all do in a day that is yet to be properly commercialised.

Welcome to Sleep Tourism. And if you feel your eyes glazing over and your lids getting heavier as you read this, that could be because you are about to experience the very latest trend in travel.

The term apparently refers to those who prioritise rest and relaxation while travelling. Forget hiking, parasailing and mountaineering, it’s really about getting a good night’s kip.

According to Roman Russo, founder, main author and “chief happiness officer” at Optimal Happiness, sleep tourists often seek out experiences that promote relaxation and better sleep. We’re talking about soundproof rooms, pillow menus, Egyptian cotton sheets, merino blankets, “mindfulness” activities, mantras and sleep meditation.

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“Forget hiking and parasailing, it’s really about getting a good night’s kip.”

Sleep researcher Dr Rebecca Robbins tells CNN Travel: “People often associate travel with decadent meals, extending their bedtimes, the attractions and the things you do while you’re travelling, almost at the cost of sleep.

Now, there’s just been a huge seismic shift in our collective awareness and prioritisation on wellness and well-being.”

In turn, companies are offering unique experiences, such as sleep pods in airports or luxury hotels with specialised sleep packages. These options cater to busy professionals who want to make the most of their holiday, while at the same time naturally catching up on much-needed sleep.

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o Sleep Tourism focuses on rest and rejuvenation rather than the destination. But, of course, it is mostly combined with regular travel – hard to know how even the inventive people at Flight Centre could sell you the idea of travelling in your own bed (let’s wait for the Metaverse to do that). So you take a trip to a historic city – and stay in a luxury hotel known for its exceptional sleeping experience.

You won’t be surprised to learn that the mobile phone and technology are the catalyst for this craze. After all, just moments after we invented the mobile phone and internet, we created an industry to help us avoid them. This is how offering no internet connectivity and removing your phone connection becomes a commodity a hotel can charge for.

“When it comes down to it, travellers book hotels for a place to sleep,” Dr Rebecca Robbins, a co-author of the book Sleep for Success!, tells Pure Wow, a travel website.

It’s a big turnaround for travel. Look through any supplement and you’ll find travel operators offering nothing but activities. But what about what happens once you hit the sack?

Martin Seeley, sleep expert and CEO at MattressNextDay, says: “Sleep tourism may sound like a tall order, but there is some solid science behind it. Sleep plays an important role in brain function and overall health, and many people aren’t getting enough of it.

"People have trouble falling asleep at night because their minds are racing with thoughts about work or life in general. Others have trouble staying asleep due to stress or anxiety about what tomorrow may bring.”

The Park Hyatt New York has six dedicated “sleep suites” produced in partnership with AI mattress maker Bryte.

“The partnership with Bryte came at the perfect time postpandemic,” general manager Laurent Ebzant told Conde Naste. “Focusing on the attributes of a room that has a prime sleeping area was a point of focus for us.”

The Bryte mattresses “have 90 intelligent cushions that sense, adjust to, and relieve the body’s pressure points. The mattress also controls the climate, tracks and provides sleep statistics and insights that can be accessed on your phone, and is able to respond to the unique needs of couples.”

The Four Seasons Bali offers a 60-minute session called a “sacred nap.” Guests get to snooze suspended from the bamboo ceiling in an aerial silk hammock, listening to the sounds of nature and the life story of Buddha as told by resident wellness mentor Ibu Fera.

One hotel that seems to have a more traditional view of sleep is the Champagne Hotel and Spa. The Royal Sleep Experience includes essential oils, melatonin-based drops, a meditation box and a “candle massage”. Sadly, a glass of bubbles is not included. CT

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you have more of South America Fly with the best airline in South America and enjoy the largest network of destinations in the region, with more than 140 cities.

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Book now at latam.com 23/2/2023 3:30 pm

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