Cruise Passenger - Issue 80, Spring 2020

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

Sea change as cruise lines prepare for their biggest ever comeback

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elcome to this very special edition of Cruise Passenger. In our 22 years of publishing, we’ve ridden the ups and downs of cruising but we’ve never seen anything like the past few months.

Normally, this spring edition would be bursting with news about ships and itineraries for our region’s wave season. Instead, ports stand empty. Tens of thousands of tour operators, travel agents and others employed in a thriving sector of travel have been stood down. And countries that once complained of over-tourism are now desperate to welcome visitors.

Indeed, as we went to press, Australia extended its ban on foreign cruise ships until December 17.

Despite this, we can see green shoots. As cruise lovers, we can cautiously take heart. While there will be no normal cruise season in Australia, New Zealand and Asia this year, there will be cruising.

Lines such as Coral Expeditions – Australian crewed and flagged – are offering itineraries around Australia, and small-ship lines such as Ponant are looking to take on the Kimberley. Others are expected to offer short trips with no stops, a return of the cruises to nowhere.

Overseas, week-long cruises in the Mediterranean have been successfully trialled, and a number of Europe’s famed fleet of river ships are sailing again.

Accessing these, of course, requires airlines to restart their operations and countries to open their borders.

That may be some way off, and will probably not occur before 2021, though certain travel bubbles – open corridors between states or countries that have few cases of the virus – could be in place by the end of the year.

In the interim, Cruise Lines International Association Australasia is in discussion with the states and territories about safe ways to reopen ports and shore excursions.

Everywhere, the cruise industry is innovating to try to end the longest pause period in more than 80 years. Most now accept the return to service will be patchy, but many lines suggest Australia and Asia will be the vanguard.

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Richard Fain, chairman and CEO of Royal Caribbean, says operations will only resume once they are fully prepared, with health and hygiene protocols in place.

“We need to restore the confidence of many by being transparent in our actions,” Mr Fain added.

Norwegian Cruise Line CEO Frank Del Rio says cruising won’t resume until he can look his own family in the eye and say it’s safe: “Nothing will be more critical… than making cruising the safest option in the travel and leisure space and providing cruisers with peace of mind.”

Cruisepassenger.com.au and our sister site rivercruisepassenger.com.au have been monitoring the global moves to relaunch cruise so you can make informed booking decisions. We know many of you are keen to cruise once you can be sure it is safe.

As an independent publisher, it is our job to ensure you are armed with as much information as possible so you can make the right decision. We urge you to check our websites and sign up for our newsletter where we report the facts and news about restarts, refunds and health initiatives.

Socially safe bubbles: the new face of the Captain’s cocktail party.

Smooth sailing!

Peter Lynch Publisher, Cruise Passenger

CONTENTS

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cruÄąse Issue 80, Spring 2020

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Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au Deputy editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Art director/production manager Catherine Martin Sub editor Hannah Warren Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au Digital manager Rupert Orchard Contributors and writers Sue Bryant, Bernadette Chua, Brian Johnston, Brittany Lazarus, Peter Lynch, Teresa Ooi, Fiona Ralph, Daniel Resnik, Jeannine Williamson.

Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 - Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 - International cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine

SPRING 2020 6 / The big picture 10 / 2021 destinations

Printed by Spotpress

Where travel agents are booking voyages next year.

cruisepassenger.com.au

15 / Safe at sea

CRUISE MEDIA AUSTRALASIA

Cruise Passenger magazine is published by Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Copyright Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders.

Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided.

Always consult your travel agent.

The new onboard health protocols.

18 / How we travel now Holidays look different these days.

42 / Cyrano de Bergerac Jeannine Williamson is elated to be back on the river.

CRUISE PLUS

48 / Our cruise paradise The Kimberley is the hottest small-ship destination.

52 / Travel bubble Our hope for restarting international travel.

56 / Welcome to the future What you need to know before planning a trip.

58 / Last word The all-Aussie solution to getting cruising going.

22 / Readers' Choice Voting is open in our annual cruise awards.

24 / Cruise news SHIP REVIEWS

34 / Le Soleal The constant daylight means Daniel Resnik doesn't miss a second in Antarctica.

38 / Regatta A New Zealand trip is a dream introduction to cruising for Fiona Ralph.

Win !

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AN 8-NIGHT COUNTRY CHRISTMAS RIVER CRUISE & STAY IN AMERICA WORTH MORE THAN $11,000

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THE BIG PICTURE

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THE BIG PICTURE

THE BIG PICTURE S A N T O R I N I In Western Europe, cruising is making a comeback.

Costa Cruises (along with AIDA Cruises and MSC Cruises) is making the most of the late-summer weather in Greece and plying the warm waters of the Mediterranean once again.

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CruiseNews OCEAN • RIVER • ADVENTURE • PORTS

INSIDE

10 Where travel agents are booking cruises next.

14 The new health-led rules and ship updates.

18 How we travel in a post-COVID world.

Viking Sky at Øksfjord, Norway, with the Northern Lights.

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CRUISE NEWS

Australians are ready for their next cruise holiday and agents are already booking out voyages for 2021. Teresa Ooi reports.

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he pandemic has not dented travel demand. Instead, with more time spent at home dreaming of their holidays, seasoned Australian travellers are still planning to cruise in 2021, mostly either closer to home or to remote, bucket-list destinations.

They are itching to sail again – but on their own terms. Once it was the price that mattered, but in today’s new world of travel, safety is at the forefront of travellers’ minds.

Then, of course, there’s the experience; never-to-be-repeated journeys on which they know they will be well looked after so they have the cruise of a lifetime.

Cruisers are also willing to spend more, choosing smaller, boutique ships rather than mega liners – safety in numbers no longer applies in this new age of post-pandemic travel.

They are booking up more expensive cabins with balconies and avoiding inside cabins, says Adam Vance, general manager sales & marketing of Cruiseco.

“Inside cabin purchases have dropped away to less than two per cent of all transactions, so travellers are moving up the ship and purchasing more expensive cabins,” he says.

“Balcony cabin purchases are up close to 100 per cent more than the same time last year.”

We asked a panel of travel agents – Adam Vance from Cruiseco, Kathy Pavlidis from Travel Associates, and Barry Downs from Bicton Travel – where their clients are heading next year.

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A NEW WORLD OF CRUISING

A colourfully dressed local in Cartagena, Colombia

Central & South America New Zealand Bold Australians are planning to spend New Year’s Eve 2021 sailing the 80-kilometre Panama Canal. Viking Cruises has just unveiled this one-off 18-day itinerary which departs Fort Lauderdale on Christmas Eve next year. The journey will also see you visit exotic destinations such as Cozumel and Cabo San Lucas in Mexico, Cartagena in Columbia, Puntarenas in Costa Rica and León in Nicaragua.

It has some of the world’s most breathtaking scenery, remarkable Māori culture, and fabulous food and wine. It is also a safe and easy place to travel – and so close! No wonder New Zealand is one of Australians’ perennial favourite destinations. Next year, when we have hopefully seen the back of the pandemic, Aussies are cruising across the Tasman Sea to visit Auckland, Picton, Napier,

CRUISE NEWS

Christchurch and Dunedin before taking in the silent and stunning beauty of Milford and Doubtful Sounds. Here Mother Nature has been given free rein; the dense forest is rife with wildlife and the soundtrack of singing birds. In the clear waters, you can get up close and personal with fur seals, pods of bottlenose dolphins and, if you’re lucky, the occasional whale and albatross.

Behind the mist, majestic Doubtful Sound offers spectacular waterfalls and mountains rising up into the clouds.

The South Pacific It is literally at our back door, and many Australians desperate for a bit of travel are booking voyages to escape to this geographically blessed region in 2021. Why fly tens of thousands of kilometres when you can cruise to these gorgeous tropical islands from Sydney or Brisbane? You are simply spoilt for choice. The South Pacific has something to suit every type of traveller.

In Vanuatu, you can experience the world’s

best wreck dives, gorgeous beaches and an accessible live volcano. Niue, the smallest country in the Pacific, offers the world’s biggest coral atoll, as well as migrating humpback whales and their calves. In the Cook Islands, you can learn to kiteboard at Aitutaki’s lagoon. Noumea, New Caledonia, is home to museums, art galleries and theatres surrounded by gorgeous beaches and the world’s longest continuous barrier reef, where you can swim, surf and snorkel to your heart’s content. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS

Clockwise: the Northern Lights in Greenland; bluefooted boobies on Galapagos; a wallaby in Esperance, Australia.

Iceland, Norway & Greenland With the draw of the Northern Lights, epic vistas and extreme remoteness, the Arctic Circle – particularly Iceland, Norway and Greenland – is increasingly becoming a popular choice for Australian cruisers keen to get off the beaten path and see some of the most beautiful and extreme parts of the world. Join other travel-hungry Aussies in 2021 and explore fjords, glaciers, cliffs and narrow inlets as you sail all the way to the Arctic Circle under the Midnight Sun. Visit surprisingly 12

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cosmopolitan Tromsø, sometimes called the Paris of the North; sprawling Reykjavik, with its colourful houses; and Nuuk, Greenland's historical capital. You'll experience Nordic culture, learn about Inuit history, explore picturesque towns, feast on local delicacies, spot the wildest of wildlife and be awed as you sail through steep gorges and icy waters. If you’re very lucky, you may even get a glimpse of the Northern Lights – the ultimate goal for any traveller in the region. Silversea and Hurtigruten, among others, offer a range of itineraries to tick this voyage off your bucket list in total comfort.

Australia At home, more cautious Aussie cruisers are fast booking up Australian circumnavigation cruises on lines such as Oceania Cruises, which is close to selling out its 35-day voyage on Regatta departing Sydney on December 3, 2021.

The almost all-Australian (it will call at two Indonesian ports) voyage will depart Sydney and head north to Brisbane, Townsville, Cairns, Thursday Island, Darwin, Komodo, Bali, Exmouth, Geraldton, Perth, Albany, Adelaide, Phillip Island, Melbourne, Hobart and return to Sydney on January 7, 2022.

CRUISE NEWS

“I just managed to get the last ocean view suite on the Regatta for my clients who just can’t wait to go cruising again,” says Kathy Pavlidis, manager of Travel Associates in Melbourne. “They have paid the deposit for the $21,000 cruise with a 10 per cent discount for two people. The cruise is selling out fast.”

Locals are also heading for Western Australia to cruise the remotest coastline in Australia, the Kimberley. It is a journey where travellers can discover ancient rock art in million-years-old landscapes, listen to Dreamtime stories from the oldest culture on the planet and see amazing tidal phenomena such as the Horizontal Falls and Montgomery Reef.

Next year, APT is launching a 14-day Kimberley coastal cruise with celebrity chef Luke Nguyen on its small expedition vessel MS Caledonian Sky, which includes two nights glamping at the Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge in the World Heritagelisted Purnululu National Park.

Galapagos This is an animal-lover’s paradise, and Australians are flocking there in herds as much of the wildlife that calls the volcanic islands home cannot be found anywhere else on the planet. Lying 1000 kilometres off the coast of Ecuador, this is a bucketlist destination, somewhere you can watch nature at its rawest and appreciate the harsh game of survival in the wild. Here, animals reign supreme: colourful marine iguanas, racer snakes hidden between rocks, penguins, and playful sea lions blowing bubbles in the water. Get ready to watch bellowing elephant bulls challenge each other, spot 400-kilo tortoises, watch the courtship of a blue-footed booby, and visit the fascinating Charles Darwin Research Station.

Antarctica Once accessed only by hardy and fearless explorers, it is fast becoming a popular expedition cruise destination and bookings for Antarctica are very strong for next year. You can sail from Australia or New Zealand, but the more common route departs from Ushuaia, Argentina, before crossing the infamous Drake Passage.

Once on the Antarctic Peninsula, ships sail among drifting icebergs, ice floes, glaciers and snow-covered mountains, passing whales, penguins, seals and thousands of resilient sea birds. This is your chance to immerse yourself in nature and venture deep into the heart of one of the most extreme environments on Earth – in the luxury and comfort of your cruise ship. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS

Experience helps prepare for the future Words Joel Katz

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Cruisers are sailing again thanks to a raft of new rules and health-led design updates.

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Masked passengers on a Ponant Zodiac ride.

ven from the very start of the worldwide cruise pause, lines have been preparing for the resumption of cruise.

The industry has hired some of the world’s leading epidemiologists, health experts and consultants to create tailored health and safety protocols.

AMK Architecture & Design, a Greek firm that specialises in hotel and cruise ship interiors, started consultations as early as May with a number of undisclosed lines to design the future of onboard hospitality.

PHOTO COURTESY MIKE LOUAGIE, FERRY SHIPPING NEWS

his year has, without doubt, brought some of the most difficult times the cruise community has ever faced, creating enormous disruption for travellers and tremendous upheaval for the industry.

Like the wider travel sector and other areas in our communities, cruise lines have been confronted with huge challenges from COVID-19, triggering a global response unlike anything before.

Though public debate and media scrutiny have been intense, the cruise industry has kept its focus resolutely on creating a new platform for cruising – one that upholds the health and safety of passengers, crew and the communities we visit.

Working with medical experts internationally, cruise lines have set out to create the best possible health protocols and other initiatives in response to COVID-19, to ensure they are ready when the time comes to sail. These measures will be aggregated by CLIA to create industry-wide protocols that can be applied globally by all member cruise lines. Though it’s too early to discuss specifics, we envisage a ‘door-to-door’ approach with strict protocols in place from the time of booking right throughout a guest’s travel and on to their return home.

In our own part of the world, CLIA is actively engaged with governments to discuss the work underway and find a pathway towards resumption.

When the time is right, we envisage a carefully controlled and phased resumption that works within border restrictions and protects Australia and New Zealand from outside infection. Limited local itineraries for Australians only, within Australia, and for New Zealanders only, within New Zealand, will provide an opportunity for a measured resumption of cruising and a revival of economic opportunities for local communities.

As an industry, we’ve made health and safety the top priority for decades, and few industries have the experience, resources and regulatory foundation that cruise lines do. No other area of travel, for example, operates with the level of onboard medical facilities, safety protocols or reporting processes.

The pandemic has been incredibly painful for so many around the world and our thoughts are with all those affected. As we look to the future, our continued focus is on the safety of our guests, and we are confident we have the resilience to succeed.

Joel Katz is managing director Australasia and Asia Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA).

CRUISE NEWS

PHOTO COURTESY MIKE LOUAGIE, FERRY SHIPPING NEWS

SAFE at SEA

Principal architect Anna Koustoukosta, who has worked with lines such as Celebrity Cruises and Costa Cruises, has started reinventing how passengers will move around and interact with the ship.

“The aim is to... reduce the need for touch interaction, make surfaces and frequently touched points virus resistant and shape the layout of areas of the ship so as to enable safe and at-distant flow of passengers and crew without sacrificing socialising, which is one of the important ingredients of the cruise,” she said.

In April, Asia-based line Dream Cruises was the first to reveal their plan for future cruises, which set the precedent for many of the lines.

The plan outlined extra cleaning protocols like disinfectant spraying of cabins and increased sterilisation of public spaces, as well as social distancing in areas like the theatre, lifts and eateries.

Passengers are required to have thorough health screenings before embarkation, and temperatures are taken daily.

Other lines soon followed. Later in April, Princess Cruises revealed their Cruise with Confidence plan, which included revised medical protocols as well as a dedicated COVID-19 team. In a bold statement, Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings, the owner of Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises and luxury Regent Seven Seas,

joined forces with Royal Caribbean’s raft of brands to create new safety standards. An unlikely duo, the two cruise giants created a Healthy Sail Panel comprising 11 experts, including heavyweights from America.

MSC Cruises, which re-started sailings in the Mediterranean in August, made the decision to test passengers before they boarded. The line also has strict rules around shore excursions, during which passengers must stay in their allocated groups and not mix with locals.

While these protocols might feel like extreme measures, they have proven, in the few sailings that have resumed, to have worked. If this is the new world of cruising, then so be it. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS

/ Swimming

pools

There will be fewer sunbeds and deckchairs, placed further apart.

Cabanas may replace loungers to keep people in their own groups.

/ Shore excursions

/ Crew

Onshore, guests must stay in allocated groups. All drivers and tour leaders wear personal protective equipment. This is to prevent guests from bringing COVID back onto the ships, and to protect communities in port.

We may see smaller crews. Most crew cabins can host four people but they'll likely reduce density. Some cabins could be left unoccupied in case of emergencies.

/ Embarkation and disembarkation areas Technology will be employed to reduce queuing. Passengers will have to undergo pre-cruise health screenings and fill out forms electronically. Guests will need to return negative COVID tests before boarding.

/ Entertainment Koustoukosta suggests moving theatres and dance floors outdoors (with weather protection). More frequent theatre shows mean fewer guests attend each showing.

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/ Medical facilities It is likely there will be increased space for medical facilities and cabins for medical crew, says Koustoukosta. This area will be separate from the rest of the ship to reduce the risk of transmission during the cruise.

CRUISE NEWS

/ Cruise bookings Fewer passengers onboard will make it easier to distance.

Cruises will also be shorter with fewer ports of call.

WELCOME TO CRUISING 2021 Cruises next year will look very different. AMK Architecture & Design's Anna Koustoukosta has a few ideas about what we can expect onboard when we resume.

Exterior cutaway of Royal Caribbean’s Voyager of the Seas.

/ Cabins Interior cabins are losing popularity, with most passengers booking balcony rooms for the fresh air. Some lines only allow guests to occupy alternate rooms so they can deep clean during sailings.

Koustoukosta suggests adding a mudroom at cabin doors to remove clothes and shoes before entering.

/ Dining areas Tables will be spaced out for social distancing and people will be asked to dine in designated groups, Koutsoukosta said, while dividers could be used for extra separation. Norwegian Cruise Line has said the buffet will probably disappear entirely, though other lines will offer it with adaptations.

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CRUISE NEWS: WHAT TRAVEL LOOKS LIKE

If

you’d told me a year ago that my morning flat white on deck would be accompanied by the first officer pointing a digital thermometer at my forehead and checking my pulse, I’d have been most puzzled. But daily temperature checks are just one aspect of cruising I had to get used to on my first post-lockdown cruise, exploring the Peloponnese on Variety Cruises’ 49-passenger Galileo.

It was a small price to pay for a blissful week in the Greek sunshine in August. Believe me, I know how lucky I am to have the freedom to travel again.

I’ve been on two trips since the UK government agreed on so-called air bridges with a handful of other countries: one to Spain, staying in an Airbnb in Andalucia, and this most recent visit to Greece.

Travelling again has been indescribably exciting; things that were once mundane, like boarding an

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How we travel now It’s a brave new world, and Sue Bryant is happy to be travelling in it.

CRUISE NEWS: WHAT TRAVEL LOOKS LIKE

Left: An Emirates flight attendant in business class.

Below: A hotel bellboy in PPE.

Travelling again has been indescribably exciting; things that were once mundane... have filled me with joy.”

your elbow and only board the lift in your social bubble.

Hand sanitiser on tap. Point at what you want from the breakfast buffet. Scan QR codes for online menus.

Wearing a sweaty mask in the heat is a bore (mask acne is not the best look to take home) but in both Greece and Spain, everybody complies. Perhaps this is related to the fact that both countries had really tough lockdowns. Spanish friends snorted when we told them of long bike rides along the Thames and visits to pop-up beer gardens during Britain’s confinement. They were allowed to go shopping once a week and had to show a receipt to prove that they’d made a decent effort.

Greeks had to apply via an app to leave the house. As such, locals are understandably sensitive. People on the beach get twitchy if you set up camp too close; indeed, some had marked out generous plots for themselves with little green flags in the sand.

Spain has banned all cruise ships indefinitely but Greece is back in business. Variety Cruises was the first to set sail with international passengers and, when I travelled, was on its fourth cruise, happily incident-free.

Our merry band of 31 passengers came from Germany, France, Spain and Greece. We were all issued with smart navy cotton masks to be worn around the ship. The crew wear plastic visors, so you can at least see their faces. All around the ship are little signs saying ‘PureSpace’. This indicates an area where the €2,500 PureSpace machine has been wheeled out to disinfect everything from soft furnishings to the actual air with a non-toxic, virus-busting spray. A second machine, which emits UV light and also kills off bugs, operates alongside the PureSpace gadget. I was so impressed that I’ve actually bought my own UV light now.

Apart from lashings of hand sanitiser around the ship, constant cleaning of the watersports gear and the daily temperature check, everything felt normal. There are still buffets, but waiter-served. Buffet shame is a new concept – it’s hard to say to the server, “Just pile it high, mate”, when you might be tempted otherwise in a self-service situation.

aircraft, have filled me with joy. There’s a sense of everything being familiar but at the same time, different. Here’s a glimpse of my experiences so far.

Greece and Spain are very strict. You fill in a form with every detail of your forthcoming trip for track and trace, should it be necessary, and are sent an email with a QR code. No QR code and you can’t even board the flight. When we arrived in Malaga, we were temperature checked and our codes scanned.

Athens is even stricter; a random selection from each incoming flight is carted off for a COVID test, the results arriving by text within 24 hours. Luckily, we weren’t picked, but just in case, we’d booked one night in the Amarilia Hotel on the beach in Vouliagmeni, the Athenian Riviera, where I learned that the ‘new normal’ in hotels is similar, not surprisingly, to that on ships. Masks everywhere. Press the lift button with cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS: WHAT TRAVEL LOOKS LIKE We still sat at the bar and drank gin and tonics. We still jumped off the ship’s ladder every day into the warm, indigo Aegean, or sat on socially distanced beaches with umbrellas carefully spaced. We did one excursion, to Delphi, which was empty and as such, exquisite, the ancient stones glowing in the soft morning light, not a selfie stick in sight, chirping cicadas and the wind in the pine trees the only sound.

To get around the issue of mixing with different guides, Variety Cruises carries its own guide, Evegnia Alexiou, an archaeologist, who was excellent.

This cruise was half board so on several nights we went out for dinner in port, sitting in restaurants with tables 1.5 metres apart. Most voices we heard were Greek and towns like Nafplio and the gorgeous port of Pylos were buzzing, although Katakolon, which depends heavily on cruise ships, was completely dead.

One night, the crew laid on ouzo and platters of octopus on the sun deck and a local dance troupe came on board to entertain us. It was their first performance since February and they were clearly absolutely thrilled to be back, although the inevitable audience participation for Zorba the Greek had to be done in family bubbles.

Despite all these measures in what I consider to be a much safer environment than some beach crammed with boozed-up Brits, I had to defy the British Foreign & Commonwealth Office’s (FCO) advice to avoid all sea-going cruises to go to Greece. It’s a bizarre ruling.

River boats much larger than Galileo are acceptable to the FCO; the mere fact that the ship goes to sea, rather than along the Rhine or Danube, makes my government

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Above: Buffets are now served by waiters. Below: The cruise director on DumontD’Urville.

equate the risk of a cruise to, say, a minibreak in Iraq.

Luckily, there are a couple of insurers here that will cover travellers for going ‘against FCO advice’ (which, to be clear, is advice, not a legal requirement).

Did I feel nervous at all? I do admit to a lot of ‘what ifs’ running through my mind each day when Vasso, the first officer, approached with her digital thermometer; 14 days’ quarantine in a Greek hotel would have been dismal. There’s a tendency to jump every time somebody coughs and fire them an accusing look.

There’s the constant concern about further quarantine becoming mandatory back home with no notice. But this is a risk every traveller has to take in this strange time. Would I take that risk again? Absolutely.

READERS’ CHOICE

cruıse passenger

READERS’ CHOICE 2020

WHO DID IT BEST? IN THIS YEAR’S EXTRA-SPECIAL READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS, WE’RE ASKING YOU TO VOTE FOR THE CRUISE LINE THAT HANDLED THE PANDEMIC BEST.

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o doubt 2020 will go down in cruise history as the year of the pandemic – a once-in-a-generation event – and this year’s Cruise Passenger Readers’ Choice Awards will reflect that.

The industry has always claimed superlative training, service and facilities, and this year was the moment for all of that to be tested.

In all of the mayhem of COVID-19, many lines rose to the challenge admirably, putting passengers first, swiftly making calls on when to halt cruises and accepting responsibility for repatriating passengers and crews almost at whatever the cost.

But who managed the crisis best? Start by asking yourself these questions: Who acted decisively and quickly to halt itineraries?

Who managed the challenge of getting passengers home best?

Who repatriated their crews with the most humanity?

Who handled the issue of refunds the most fairly?

Welcome to the 2020 Readers’ Choice Awards, one truly like no other. As always, our awards are decided by you, the cruise passenger – the best and most important judges of all.

Your verdicts matter. The industry listens and, after this massive upheaval, most executives are genuinely keen to learn from the mistakes that were made. Last year, we had a record voting turnout.

Let’s set another record with your voices this year – these are the most important votes in the history of cruise.

• • • •

VOTE AT CRUISEPASSENGER.COM.AU/READERSCHOICE 22

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READERS’ CHOICE

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CRUISE NEWS

A Carnival all year round Carnival Cruise Line has announced more than 50 cruises on Carnival Spirit due to sail from the new Brisbane port starting June 2022. The sailings, through to March 2023, include itineraries showcasing the best of the Sunshine State’s coastline and destinations in the South Pacific. Domestic ports include Airlie Beach, Cairns, Willis Island and Port Douglas, while ports further afield include Papua New Guinea, Fiji, Vanuatu and New Caledonia. The new Brisbane terminal has been designed with cruise ships and their passengers in mind and features an array of dining options, a retail precinct and a range of luxury residences. Carnival Spirit will be the largest ship to be homeported yearround at the Brisbane Cruise Terminal.

MUSTER DRILLS A THING OF THE PAST Royal Caribbean has reinvented their muster drill and will be launching Muster 2.0 with brand new eMuster technology. This means the least appealing part of any cruise will now take place online in your own time, rather than standing on deck in a bright orange life jacket alongside hundreds of other passengers. This is, perhaps, the only silver lining to appear in the COVID-19 cloud. Cruise lines usually try and sweeten the pill of getting all passengers on deck by having the captain’s cocktail party straight after but milling around while the crew waves numbered signs and points to the tiny rescue craft that we rely on to save our lives is hardly the brightest start to a holiday. Now all the drill information will be made available to you via your smartphone or interactive stateroom TV. You will then have a fourhour window in which to complete the safety drill, eliminating the need for large group assemblies.

Here’s how Royal Caribbean are going to do it:

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Use your smartphone or TV to review all safety information and acknowledge completion.

NORWEGIAN SAILS CLOSER TO HOME Our renewed interest in closerto-home sailings has prompted Norwegian Cruise Line to return to Asia and Australia with renewed vigour, offering unique itineraries on Norwegian Sun and Norwegian Spirit in 2021 and 2022. Norwegian Sun will call at several new destinations, including Muara in Brunei, and Manila and Coron in the

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Philippines, while Norwegian Spirit will visit Yangon in Myanmar. The voyages will depart from a range of ports including Bali, Bangkok, Dubai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Sydney and Tokyo. There will also be several repositioning cruises from Asia to Australia. “Our Asia itineraries offer the chance to deepdive into some of the world’s most ancient and striking locations,” said Damian Borg, Norwegian Cruise Line’s director of sales, Australia New Zealand.

Physically go and visit your assigned assembly station and scan in using your stateroom key.

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There, a crew member will verify that all safety information has been completed and answer any questions you may have.

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Use your smartphone or TV to listen to the emergency signal, which will be played again by the ship’s captain before the ship sets sail.

This marks the first major change to a safety drill in more than a decade. Royal Caribbean is implementing the new process on its own cruise lines, including Celebrity Cruises and Azamara, and are offering to waive patent license fees for other cruise lines so expect others to follow.

CRUISE NEWS

NEW PRINCESS ITINERARIES HAVE STRONG DOWN UNDER FOCUS Princess Cruises has unveiled plans for the 2021-22 Australian season, with five of the line’s vessels homeporting or visiting over the season.

Both Brisbane and Sydney have Princess ships homeporting from late 2021, with Brisbane hosting Coral Princess and Sydney hosting Royal Princess and Emerald Princess. Sapphire Princess will be homeported in Melbourne, while Pacific Princess will cruise on two different itineraries from Australia during the season.

Royal Princess and Emerald Princess are both equipped with the cruise line’s OceanMedallion technology, which means guests sailing from Sydney will have the chance to experience the latest cruise innovation.

The season also includes plans for Coral Princess’ first round-trip world cruise from Australia in 2022.

There has been a massive reshuffle elsewhere within the line, with Diamond Princess leaving Asia for South America and Antarctica and Ruby Princess and Majestic Princess heading to Alaska and North America. Regal Princess, which was also due to start sailing from Sydney this year, does not appear to be on the schedule for the 2021/22 wave season.

“The first of the cruises being offered are still a year away and two years for the last voyages in the season,” said Stuart Allison, Princess Cruises’ senior vice president Asia Pacific. “We know that many of our

Above: Royal Princess at sea.

Below: Princess passengers use the OceanMedallion technology.

guests wish to cruise again when the time is right and it is important that we have options available so that they can plan to resume holidaying at sea. Our new itineraries will give our Australian guests some holiday inspiration for the time when we will all be able to travel again.”

Mr Allison said the five-ship program underlined Princess Cruises’ strong commitment to the Australian cruise market.

“With new ships on offer and a total of 95 departures to choose from, 2021-22 will be one of our strongest seasons Down Under and reflects demand from our Princess guests and travel agent community who have remained loyal to cruising during this challenging period,” he said.

Mr Allison expects Coral Princess’ 28-night Australian circumnavigation and her world cruise to be popular with holidaymakers. The 107-night round-the-world voyage will visit 43 destinations in 27 countries, and feature overnights stays in Dubai, Venice, New York and Lima as well as visits to four stunning new world-cruise ports – Sibenik in Croatia, Cornwall (Falmouth) in the UK, Olden in Norway and Isafjordur in Iceland.

CRUISE NEWS

CUNARD CANCELS 2020, RETURNS WITH GARDENING JOURNEY 2021

Viking’s Central America holiday itinerary Spend Christmas Day on the high seas and New Year’s Eve on the Panama Canal with Viking’s new, onceoff 18-day itinerary which departs Fort Lauderdale on December 24, 2021.

The 930-passenger Viking Star will visit six countries and call at exotic destinations such as Cozumel and Cabo San Lucas in Mexico, Cartagena in Columbia, Puntarenas in Costa Rica, León in Nicaragua and Colón in Panama before disembarking in Los Angeles. The highlight is a transit of the 80-km Panama Canal, a journey which can take up to 10 hours. Viking has also unveiled an 11-day Classic Panama Canal Passage voyage, which departs on 6 and 16 November next year visiting Key West in the US, Cozumel in Mexico, Belize City in Belize, Roatan in Honduras, San Jose in Puerto Rico and Colón in Panama.

The new voyages are in addition to the line’s regular 15-day Panama Canal and Central America itinerary cruising round-trip from Fort Lauderdale, with departures available in January, October, November and December next year.

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Luxury line Cunard has bowed to the inevitable and cancelled all cruises for the rest of 2020. They have also confirmed changes to 2021 and 2022 schedules. Queen Elizabeth will be docked until March, Queen Mary 2 until April and Queen Victoria until May. Originally scheduled to sail in March 2021, Australia’s first-ever Gardening Journey will now sail when Cunard’s operations Down Under resume in December 2021. Gardening experts Jamie Durie (above) and Graham Ross will join this eight-night sailing on Queen Elizabeth from Sydney to educate guests during talks, workshops, activities, cooking lessons and garden excursions.

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LOCAL FERRY CAPTAIN’S ‘GHOST SHIP’ TOURS A ferry captain based in Dorset, UK, is running tours from his local port to visit the empty cruise ships at anchor in the English Channel. In June, Captain Paul Derham, himself a former cruise ship captain, recognised some of the ships sitting idle on the water and offered to take some ferry passengers for a better look. The response was so enthusiastic that he has continued offering the two and a half hour tours ever since, for $36 per person. Capt. Derham’s cruise ship experience means he can tell guests all about the vessels and, as they get up as close as 50 metres, guests can take

great photos. The fleet of ghost ships includes iconic vessels such as Cunard’s Queen Mary 2 and Queen Elizabeth and Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas, one of the largest in the world.

Capt. Derham has been overwhelmed by the interest from all over the world. “Our phone has not stopped ringing,” he said. “It’s absolutely amazing. We have thousands of people waiting to go.”

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E X PLOR E EUROPE T HE V IK ING WAY If small ships, no children and no casinos sounds like your kind of cruise, we invite you to discover The Viking Way of exploration.

We offer a unique way to explore, with immersive, destination-focused experiences and itineraries that take you right into the heart of the world’s most fascinating cities and towns.

From Stavanger to St. Petersburg, discover a voyage that delves into the rich tapestry of Europe’s diverse culture, cuisine, history and art. That’s The Viking Way of exploration.

Bergen

Eidfjord Stavanger

FINLAND

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Cruise Overnight in Port

VIKING HOMELANDS

STOCKHOLM – BERGEN or vice versa 15 DAYS | 11 GUIDED TOURS | 8 COUNTRIES SET SAIL JUL – SEP 2021; MAY – SEP 2022 From $9,095pp in Veranda stateroom

EXPLORE ALL OF OUR 2021-2023 CRUISE OFFERS ONLINE NOW AND SAVE UP TO $4,600 PER COUPLE. BOOK BEFORE 30 SEPTEMBER 2020 AND YOU’RE COVERED BY OUR RISK-FREE GUARANTEE.

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NO KIDS | NO CASINOS | NO COMPROMISE

VIKINGCRUISES.COM.AU OR SEE YOUR LOCAL VIKING AGENT

Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability and correct at time of printing. Price includes all advertised discounts and offers are subject to availability. Pricing based on Viking Homelands ocean cruise departing 6 May 2022 in a Veranda stateroom. These offers are valid on new bookings made between 1 September and 30 November 2020 unless sold out prior. Risk-Free Guarantee valid on bookings made before 30 September 2020. For full terms and conditions visit vikingcruises.com.au

READER COMPETITION

American Queen Steamboat Company (represented in Australia by small-ship cruise specialist Cruise Traveller) is offering Cruise Passenger readers the chance to win an eight-night Christmas river cruise and stay for two in a Veranda Suite on the 166-passenger paddlewheeler American Duchess.

Your prize includes a one-night precruise hotel stay in Nashville, a seven-night river cruise from Nashville (Clarksville) to Memphis for two people including all meals on board, beer and wine with dinner, and all shore excursions on board the vessel.

The Country Christmas river cruise departs Nashville, Tennessee, on December 12, 2021, and travels to six small ports before disembarking in Memphis. Along the way you'll get into the festive spirit with the sights, sounds and smells of the holidays.

As a bonus, American music icon Lee Greenwood* will perform on board during this special cruise.

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READER COMPETITION

Win

an 8-night Country Christmas river cruise and stay in America worth more than $11,000

American Queen Steamboat Company is the most award-winning river-cruise line in America, offering inclusive cruises with guided shore excursions, nightly Broadwaycalibre entertainment and regionally inspired fine dining.

Prize description/inclusions: – One night of hotel accommodation pre-cruise with breakfast and taxes – One-way transfer from hotel to port on cruise departure day – Seven-night river cruise from Nashville (Clarksville) to Memphis, USA aboard the 166-passenger American Duchess – All onboard meals, including fine dining and casual cuisine, and beer and wine with dinner – Complimentary hop-on hop-off-shore excursions in each port of call – 24-hour room service onboard cruise

How to enter Go to cruisepassenger. com.au/competitions and answer this simple question: Which American city is known as the home of the blues and birthplace of rock ‘n’ roll?

Terms and conditions apply.

See cruisepassenger.com.au/ competitions *Music artist may change

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AUSTRALIA’S BEST SOURCE OF CRUISE NEWS Find your next cruise and win a luxe travel kit

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Terms and conditions apply, See cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine

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> Save up to $31.40 when you subscribe to Cruise Passenger magazine and go in the draw to win an Aesop Nashville travel beauty kit, worth $80.

Perfect for a warm weather trip, this luxury miniatures set includes a facial cleanser, facial toner, facial hydrator, shampoo, nurturing conditioner, body cleanser, body balm, toothpaste, and mouthwash in a handy carry case.

We are giving away a Nashville travel kit to three lucky new subscribers of Cruise Passenger. For your chance to win, go to cruisepassenger.com.au/ magazine, subscribe to Cruise Passenger and tell us in 25 words or less where you'd like go on your next summer holiday.

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RIVER CRUISE NEWS

VIKING’S NEW MEKONG RIVER SHIP A new Viking ship, Viking Saigon, is slated to start sailing the Mekong in August 2021, between Kampong Cham, Cambodia, and Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. The 80-guest vessel will be built in the line’s stylish Scandinavian style; all of the 40 staterooms will have floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors with a veranda or French balcony. The ship will also have a spa and fitness centre,

infinity pool and open-air Sky Bar on the top deck. “For many of our guests, Vietnam and Cambodia remain top destinations because of their significance in world history,” said Torstein Hagen, Viking chairman. “This will be the most modern vessel on the Mekong and will feel like home to our loyal Viking guests who are familiar with the comfortable design of our ships.” Bookings on Viking

Saigon are for a 15-day itinerary that will include an eight-day cruise segment with 16 guided tours, including shopping in Old Hanoi’s markets, exploring the Khmer temple complex of Angkor Wat, visiting Ta Prohm’s jungle and ancient ruins, and seeing the sights of Phnom Penh by cyclo rickshaw. There will also be hotel stays in Hanoi, Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City.

SCENIC GOES GASTRONOMIC

Europe’s rivers hold appeal

Luxury line Scenic has revealed two new culinary-themed itineraries in France for 2021 – Tastes of Southern France on the Rhône, and Flavours of Bordeaux on the Garonne, Gironde and Dordogne. On these journeys, you’ll meet local artisans – truffle farmers, coopers, cheesemakers, chefs and a variety of winemakers – and explore historic towns, castles and museums. Highlights will be cooking classes and demonstrations from professional chefs, patissiers and bakers. Scenic’s luxurious Space-Ships can accommodate a maximum of 165 passengers with five dining venues, all-balcony suites, butler service, an expansive rooftop sun deck and a panorama lounge and bar to take in the scenery over a glass of local wine or Cognac.

European river sailings remain the most popular itineraries for Australians, with cruisers heading to France, Russia and Portugal in 2021/22. Viking's most popular cruises for 2021 include the 23-day Amsterdam to Bucharest European Sojourn, 13-day St Petersburg to Moscow Waterways of the Tsars and the 10-day Lisbon to Porto Portugal’s River of Gold. APT and Travelmarvel have also seen strong bookings for European cruises, especially Amsterdam to Budapest itineraries, with an increase for the Balkans and Russia cruises. Barry Downs of Bicton Travel and Cruiseco’s Adam Vance agree that Europe is the hot ticket for river cruises next year. “Then it’s a big gap to the Mekong and a bigger gap to the Mississippi,” adds Mr Vance. Avalon says their short Taster Cruises on the Danube and Rhine Rivers are trending, especially among first-time cruisers.

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SILVERSEA VISITS THE GALAPAGOS, IMPROVES S.A.L.T.

The rise of the small ships The Scenic Group is on track to build four more ultra-luxury Eclipse ships under its flagship brand over the next six years. Scenic’s shipbuilding company MKM Yachts is undertaking the new builds at its own yard in Croatia, with the construction of Scenic Eclipse II well underway. The ship’s expected debut early next year is a sign the line has put year-long delays, due to union problems and finances at the yard, behind it. Scenic Eclipse I, the world’s first discovery

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yacht, was launched in August last year and when Scenic Eclipse II is launched early next year, she will offer the same experience of a lifetime for just 228 guests, down to 200 when she sails the Arctic and Antarctica. The Eclipse ships each carry a custom-built submarine, which can take six people to depths of 300 metres. Scenic’s sister brand, Emerald Waterways, plans to build similar vessels to offer more affordable high-end sailings. Emerald Azzurra will be the first vessel launched under Emerald Yacht Cruises. She has been custom designed to cruise the Adriatic Coast, the Red Sea and the Mediterranean.

Silversea has two new ships this year, both dedicated to expedition cruising. In October, the line is due to complete Silver Moon, which will have a dedicated culinary centre for the line’s S.A.L.T. program, including a test kitchen and lecture area. There will also be a much larger spa than the one on sister ship Silver Muse. In June, Silver Origin set off on her maiden voyage around the Galapagos. The ship, which was built specifically for this region, has 51 suites, all with private balconies and bathrooms with ocean views. Itineraries will include a visit to Bartolomé Island, known for its snorkelling and penguin population, and Santa Cruz, which is home to the Charles Darwin Research Station. Silver Origin operates exclusively in Ecuador, where there is no mandatory quarantine on arrival, though all travellers arriving in the country must provide a negative COVID test. Travellers going on to the Galapagos must take a second negative test on arrival in Ecuador.

CruiseReviews INSIDE

A château overlooking a vineyard in Bordeaux, France.

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Le Soleal’s Antarctic expedition.

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Regatta takes a little hop around NZ.

Cyrano de Bergerac is back on the river.

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SHIP REVIEW: LE SOLEAL

WHERE THE SUN NEVER SETS A trip to Antarctica has Daniel Resnik’s eyes wide open the whole time.

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SHIP REVIEW: LE SOLEAL

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e’re here in mid-December, in the summer, and it’s daylight 24/7.

Although this makes it difficult to sleep, we don’t really want to anyway, for fear of missing out on something remarkable.

At 5:30 one morning I’m woken by an announcement from our captain that a pack of killer whales (orcas) are on the starboard side of the ship, which happens to be the side my cabin is on.

I can’t get out of bed quickly enough to grab my camera and race out onto my private balcony, eager to start taking photos of this pack of five orcas chasing around one defenceless penguin. These killer whales are so close to our ship I feel like I can almost touch them. The poor little penguin shows remarkable

Above: A colony of emperor penguins. Left: Passengers on a Zodiac get up close to a breaching whale.

evasive skills and thankfully escapes onto a chunk of floating ice. For now.

I’m onboard Ponant’s luxurious Le Soleal which departed Ushuaia, the capital of Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego province, bound for Antarctica – the coldest, driest and windiest place on earth.

From Ushuaia to the Antarctic Peninsula is a two-day voyage through the Drake Passage, which is renowned as one of the roughest sea passages in the world. It’s here that the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans converge and cause soaring currents and at times frightening seas.

The experience is exhilarating and, as we cruise through an endless surge of swells framed by grey, ominous skies, we’re escorted by a throng of seabirds, including albatross and cape petrels. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: LE SOLEAL

+ Fact file Any queasiness is quickly forgotten once we arrive in the calm, sheltered waters of the Antarctica Peninsula.

The metamorphosis is as dramatic as it is magical. As you approach Antarctica it gets suddenly and incredibly cold and huge icebergs begin to appear, as do occasional humpback whales heading back to feed after breeding in the warmer tropical waters of the Pacific.

The ship is skippered by 10-year polar veteran Captain David Marionneau, who has sailed to some of the most remote destinations in the world and now has the pleasure of commanding this beautiful vessel.

In L’Éclipse, the gastronomic restaurant on Deck 2, sophisticated breakfasts, lunch and dinners are served, while at Le Pythéas grill restaurant on Deck 6, all meals are served in a relaxed atmosphere.

The panoramic lounge is also located on Deck 6, offering spectacular views, soft drinks, wine, beer, cocktails and aperitifs, which are also served at both restaurants, the main lounge and the pool deck bar.

Nightly professional entertainment via cabaret theatre productions featuring singers, musicians and dancers. Another popular option is to relax in the library’s tranquil lounge or enjoy cocktails at the bar.

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CRUISE LINE: Ponant VESSEL: Le Soleal STAR RATING: 4 MAX PASSENGER CAPACITY: 264 TOTAL CREW: 140 PASSENGER DECKS: 5 TONNAGE: 10,944 ENTERED SERVICE: 2013 FACILITIES: Restaurants, show lounge, spa, fitness room, Zodiacs.

BOOKINGS: ponant.com

+ The verdict

HIGHS: Absolutely everything.

LOWS: Rough seas cruising through the Drake Passage. And having to leave the ship at the completion of our journey!

BEST FOR: A trip to Antarctica is one of the greatest adventures and exceeds all expectations.

It suits all age groups, though some of the Zodiac excursions require a reasonable level of fitness.

SHIP REVIEW: LE SOLEAL The gym offers some of the world’s most spectacular views for you to enjoy while burning off the calories.

The ship also boasts a beauty and wellbeing centre with a hammam (Turkish bath), a hair salon, and a pool heated to a perfect 29° Celsius.

Lectures and seminars – covering wildlife, history, geopolitics, the great explorers, climate and environmental protection – are a huge part of this Antarctica expedition adventure and are held daily in the theatre. Before all Zodiac tours, expedition leaders, marine biologists and naturalists explain where we will be going, what wildlife we’re likely to see and any precautions we need to adhere to.

The captain is always available to talk to passengers and his enthusiasm and passion for navigation and the love of his profession shines through; he, along with the crew, ensure that the Ponant Antarctica expedition experience is memorable.

Our onboard expedition leader, assisted by a team of experts, on this adventure is veteran John Frick who’s on his 113th polar trip and has been an expedition leader for 18 years, though his enthusiasm for the Antarctica is as infectious as if it were his first exploration.

Just two days into our journey around the Antarctic Peninsula, we’ve already seen some of the most brilliant mountainous landscapes, ice filled seas, icebergs the size of city blocks and a variety of wildlife including penguins, seals, orcas, humpbacks, minke whales and a huge variety of seabirds. Cruising through the famous Lemaire Channel, huge snow-covered

mountains either side make our ship look minuscule.

Every moment, day or night, wherever you look, the perfect weather, tranquillity, remoteness and mirrorlike reflections are mesmerising.

Twice each day, weather permitting, there are Zodiac tours; one day we walk among 200,000 nesting Adélie penguins on Paulette Island, another we stroll on Hannah Point, Livingston Island, where large packs of elephant seals flop, grunt, belch, snort and snore while penguins casually waddle by. High in the protective rocks above the beach, away from prying eyes, perch southern giant petrel and blue-eyed shag birds. It’s a magical world of snow, ice and wildlife, and I click frantically at my camera.

Every moment of our 1,960-nauticalmile journey is nothing short of captivating. But it’s under a cloudless blue sky on our third day, while moored in Wilhelmina Bay devouring another superb lunch on the ship, that we get one of the most memorable wildlife sightings.

Against a backdrop of the snowy mountains that form a natural amphitheatre in this 24-kilometre-wide bay, a humpback whale decides to put on a 40-minute breaching spectacular.

The last two days go by far too quickly, full of moments in which you slow down, breathe, look around and try to take it all in. We conclude with yet another highlight, as the captain sails us back to Ushuaia via infamous Cape Horn.

A sailing to Antarctica is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I will forever cherish my time here under the constant sun.

Clockwise from right: a Ponant passenger; Le Soleal in the ice; the wine cellar in L’Éclipse; a shore excursion through the snow; dessert onboard.

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SHIP REVIEW: OCEANIA REGATTA

Perfect Kiwi cruise combination New Zealand is in the box seat for a travel bubble with Australia. Oceania Cruises’ small-ship fleet provides a luxurious base from which to explore, finds Fiona Ralph.

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hile I’ve travelled the length and breadth of New Zealand by road and air, I haven’t explored it by sea, so I jump at the chance when I’m offered a trip from Auckland to Wellington as part of an Auckland-toSydney voyage on Oceania Cruises’ flagship Regatta. It’s my first time on a cruise and I’m instantly hooked.

After departing Auckland, aka the City of Sails, our first port is Tauranga, with Mount Maunganui’s famous peak providing a dramatic photo opportunity as we sail into the harbour. From here, many passengers head to

SHIP REVIEW: OCEANIA REGATTA

ship to rock and roll a little more than usual, but after dosing up on sea sickness tablets we barely notice the movements – except for the occasional dance-floor stumble when we head to Horizons later that night.

While the dance floor is usually pretty quiet, except for our group making fools of ourselves, crowds gather to watch the entertainers in the Regatta Lounge each evening. Local singer Will Martin wows everyone, as do the dancers in the Regatta Production Cast with their energetic Motown performances accompanied by the Regatta Show Band.

It’s perfectly calm when we drop anchor in Gisborne’s Poverty Bay on our second day at sea. We have a spectacular view of Young Nick’s Head – the cliffs that line the peninsula at the southern end of the bay. While most passengers head ashore to explore New Zealand’s easternmost city, we take advantage of the empty pool deck and lunch buffet, filling up on seafood, made-to-order salads, tropical fruit, and sorbet and ice cream from the daily changing selection.

We make a concerted effort to only hit the buffet three times as we’re planning on enjoying afternoon tea in a couple of hours, where there will be numerous pastries and sandwiches to nibble on, accompanied by the soothing sounds of the resident string quartet.

As well as being renowned for its culinary offerings (according to the brochures it’s ‘The Finest Cuisine at Sea’), Oceania is known for its small, luxury ships and boutique itineraries. Regatta, along with another three of Oceania’s six ships, hosts just 684 passengers.

My fellow seafarers inform me that I’m lucky to be experiencing a five-star line on my first cruise, which makes me worry that I’ve set the bar too high for subsequent voyages.

tourist hotspots Rotorua, renowned for its Māori culture and geothermal activity, or Hobbiton, where parts of The Lord of the Rings were filmed, but we are content to wander the laid-back beach town. From the terminal, it is a short walk to Mount Maunganui’s shops and cafes, and a 15-minute taxi down the coast to Pāpāmoa, where we watch the waves and order drinks from Sandbank, a local-favourite coffee and smoothie van.

The surf is pumping, thanks to Tropical Cyclone Tino. Back on board, this same swell is causing the

Clockwise from top: Room service in the Owner’s Suite; Wellington Harbour at dusk; Toscana restaurant.

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SHIP REVIEW: OCEANIA REGATTA The ever-friendly staff are from all over the world, as is the culinary inspiration. At the Terrace Cafe buffet, some days are Mexican inspired, others Asian influenced; one evening there’s even a Kiwi theme, complete with fresh local fish cooked to order, a whole New Zealand lamb, meat pies, the famous lolly cake (an unusual mash-up of biscuits, sweets and coconut) plus pavlovas and lamingtons, two national treasures which Australians and New Zealanders continue to fight over for ownership. Admittedly, the meal isn’t completely authentic but it’s a fun touch.

It seems a shame that most of the other meat and seafood served onboard is from North America, where Oceania is based – although I can’t complain as I indulge in my fair share of delectable Florida and Maine lobster. If you want more of a taste of New Zealand fare, there are plenty of cafes and wineries to explore ashore.

Dinner is where the ship’s cuisine shines. As well as the Grand Dining Room and the buffet at the Terrace Cafe, there are two speciality restaurants – Polo Grill, for all your surf-and-turf needs, and Toscana for Italian favourites. At Polo Grill, after two breakfasts and a fair few lunch courses, my husband manages to squeeze in lobster bisque, lobster mac ’n’ cheese and a whole lobster – the temptations of all-inclusive dining have officially peaked.

For lunch, the Grand Dining Room transforms into a French bistro. You can also enjoy the Terrace Cafe buffet or check out Waves Grill for burgers and poolside snacks. There are another five bars and cafes rounding out the hospitality offering, as well as free 24-hour room service – late-night pizzas being just the ticket after a night of dancing.

From top: Red Ginger restaurant; a gannet couple; Regatta’s pool deck.

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+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Oceania VESSEL: Regatta STAR RATING: 3+ MAX PASSENGER CAPACITY: 684 TOTAL CREW: 386 PASSENGER DECKS: 9 LENGTH: 181m ENTERED SERVICE: 1998/2003 FACILITIES: Bars, restaurants, show lounge, swimming pool, spa, driving range, deck games, beauty salon.

BOOKINGS: oceaniacruises.com

+ The verdict

HIGHS: Delicious food, friendly staff and a luxurious new fitout. The small ship and high ratio of staff to passengers make for an intimate experience.

LOWS: If you are wanting a more social holiday, this smaller ship may not be the best bet – you might find you’re the only one on the dance floor!

BEST FOR: Couples or small groups wanting a relaxed, exclusive experience.

SHIP REVIEW: OCEANIA REGATTA

Our first port is Tauranga, with Mount Maunganui’s famous peak providing a dramatic photo opportunity.”

Alongside such indulgent treats, the ship’s reimagined menus include sugar-free and plant-based options, in line with the wellness offerings at the brand new Aquamar Spa + Vitality Centre, where I enjoy a blissful hot stone massage, and sign up for yoga and meditation classes I really did intend to take.

It’s all part of the extensive refurbishment Regatta underwent last year as part of the cruise line’s OceaniaNEXT initiative. The ship was built in 1998 but you’d never guess, thanks to its shiny new staterooms and suites, and transformed public spaces complete with bejewelled chandeliers. The elegant decor has a classic nautical feel, and our Deluxe Ocean View stateroom is stylishly appointed with a custom-designed Ultra Tranquility Bed, which lives up to its name.

Oceania has also considered sustainability, with onboard initiatives including the elimination of straws and the use of reusable water bottles in staterooms and restaurants. Staff still hand out single-use plastic water bottles as you head ashore unfortunately, but it’s certainly a step in the right direction.

Our third destination, Napier, is known for its art deco architecture, as the city was rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in 1931. The seaside town also has cute cafes

Above: Napier’s Art Deco Weekend.

Below: Cape Kidnappers.

and a thriving winery culture, which many guests opt to take advantage of. We instead take a shore excursion to Cape Kidnappers with Gannet Safaris Overland.

After a long coach ride, navigating hair-raising clifftop turns, we arrive at the world’s largest, most accessible mainland gannet colony. It’s mesmerising watching the birds arrive home after a foraging flight to a ritual of beak tapping with their lifelong mate.

We finish with a mini tour of Napier’s art deco icons before climbing aboard for our final evening, where we dine al fresco at sunset. As we sail into Wellington, I wish we could remain on board as the ship continues down the coast of the South Island, through the spectacular fiords of Milford Sound and on to Sydney but, alas, it’s back to land for us, to dream of our next cruise.

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SHIP REVIEW: CYRANO DE BERGERAC

Cruise Passenger joined one of the first European river cruises sailing again. Jeannine Williamson finds out how life on the water has changed.

“W

elcome aboard Cyrano de Bergerac,” says a crew member holding a digital thermometer to my forehead as our suitcases are whisked away to be disinfected before being taken to the cabin. Although the lower part of his face is hidden by a mask – as indeed is mine – I can tell by his twinkling eyes that he’s smiling.

It’s certainly not the usual reception you get on a river cruise, but if you travel in the time of a pandemic then of course things are going to be pretty different. But as I rubbed the provided sanitiser gel into my hands and stepped onboard a ship for the first time in five months, I wondered how much things would have changed and whether it would mar my enjoyment of being back on the water.

In the wake of COVID-19, most ocean cruises have been scuppered for the rest of 2020, with some already cancelling sailings for early 2021.

However, smaller river vessels – all carrying fewer than 200 passengers – are better placed to manage health protocols and several Europe-based lines are now operating selected sailings.

Founded in 1976 and one of the original pioneers of river cruising, French and familyowned CroisiEurope was among the first companies to spearhead the return to inland waterways. The largest European operator, with a fleet of more than 55 river ships, five canal barges and two small ocean ships, it was also the first line to open up its sailings to international passengers. So I felt in safe hands as I settled into my cabin on the 174-passenger Cyrano de Bergerac as it prepared to set off on the year’s

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BACK ON BOARDEAUX

Château Pichon Longueville Baron, Bordeaux region.

SHIP REVIEW: CYRANO DE BERGERAC

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SHIP REVIEW: CYRANO DE BERGERAC

first round-trip cruise from the UNESCO-listed World Heritage City of Bordeaux.

Indeed, I had expected only a handful of passengers on board, so I was pleasantly surprised to discover I was sailing with 124 guests from five countries. I quickly relaxed, and after an overnight port stay in Bordeaux it was exciting to cast off early the next morning and set off along the Garonne river on the five-night winethemed cruise through southern France.

With CroisiEurope being the only line currently operating on the river, it felt like a voyage of discovery in more ways than one and it was poignant to see other ships – manned by skeleton crews – moored in Bordeaux and going nowhere right now.

The first task was to remember to don face masks, which are provided in the cabin, each time we left. For the first day or so I forgot, receiving a gentle reminder

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Clockwise from above: A Bordeaux vineyard at harvest time; the author; a masked waiter onboard; Miroir d’Eau, Bordeaux; Cyrano de Bergerac.

from one of the 33 crew members who wear them all the time. But, like any new habit, it quickly became less intrusive and it’s not as if you have to wear them all the time, just when you are walking around the ship.

The other health measures include having your temperature checked each time you return to the ship from an excursion or self-guided walk, enhanced cleaning of cabins and public areas, observing a onemetre distance from passengers outside your group and waiter-served food instead of a breakfast buffet.

That said, with CroisiEurope, dining was one of the least impacted areas. With lunchtime being a French institution, the line is unusual in always serving lunch rather than offering the buffet favoured by the majority of river companies. Similarly, there has never been the usual open seating arrangement and at the beginning of each sailing you’re allocated a table for the duration.

Upstairs in the lounge, drinks were brought to the table rather than served while you stood at the bar, and although a foot-tapping musical duo played and sang in the afternoon and evening, no dancing was allowed on the small floor. But that didn’t detract from the ambiance and my fellow shipmates were a very happy bunch (possibly partly due to CroisiEurope’s generous open bar policy and eagerly awaited cocktail of the day).

In the warm weather, it was lovely to be able to sit out on the open deck areas such as the sun deck, which was magical at night beneath the stars and against a backdrop of twinkling lights from towns and villages on the river bank.

Following the trail of world-famous Bordeaux wines through towns including Pauillac, Blaye and Libourne, the convivial atmosphere continued on not-

SHIP REVIEW: CYRANO DE BERGERAC

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: CroisiEurope VESSEL: Cyrano de Bergerac STAR RATING: 3+ MAX PASSENGER CAPACITY: 174 TOTAL CREW: 25 PASSENGER DECKS: 3 LENGTH: 110m ENTERED SERVICE: 2013 FACILITIES: Restaurant, bars, dance floor, terrace, sundeck.

BOOKINGS: Four- to seven-night cruises on the Gironde, Garonne and Dordogne. Cruise-only fares start at $1340 with no single supplement on selected dates. croisieurope.com

+ The verdict

HIGHS: An authentic French experience. French cuisine at leisurely mealtimes. Crew members all speak excellent English. Good value fares with plenty of inclusions.

LOWS: Set menus with no à la carte options (dietary requirements advised in advance are well catered for).

BEST FOR: Well-travelled Francophiles that like a cosmopolitan onboard vibe.

so-dry land with excursions to wineries to sip the region’s predominantly red wines and learn about revered grape varieties including merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Back on board, there was a complimentary wine tasting session with the opportunity to buy bottles to pack or have shipped back home. Another day brought a free oyster tasting event in the lounge, washed down with a glass of one of the area’s crisp and fresh sauvignon blancs.

We had to wear masks in the tour buses and on group excursions, but this didn’t feel out of place as in France people seemed accustomed to wearing face coverings in the open, though they were not a statutory requirement in the places we visited.

Everywhere, even in busy Bordeaux, we felt as if we were the only tourists in town, which was a plus rather than a minus. Some days we strolled along waterfronts in ports of call, where it wasn’t obligatory to wear a mask if you were exploring independently, and I didn’t hear another English voice. This added to the holiday feeling as we passed local families chatting over coffee and croissants or, unsurprisingly, a glass of Bordeaux wine.

Back on Cyrano de Bergerac, we’d freshen up for dinner in our bright and cheerful cabin. Spread across three decks, all rooms are roughly the same size at 140 square feet, with the only difference being that the upper deck ones have airy French balconies, the middle cabins have sliding windows and lower rooms have portholes. Then it was just a case of remembering the face masks as we headed back down to the dining room for another French feast.

Travelling again undoubtedly felt like an uncharted adventure, and I will admit to having some pre-boarding wobbles about taking a cruise in the time of COVID. But these were quickly dispelled and I had a fantastic time. Yes, it was different, but not enough to put me off. Would I do it again?

Without any shadow of doubt.

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CruisePlus Experiences, food and wellness on your travels

INSIDE

The Kimberley 48

Asia-Pacific travel bubble 52

The future of travel 56

Last word 58

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CRUISE PLUS: KIMBERLEY

Australia’s cruise paradise 48

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Norway has the fjords, the Caribbean has its islands and Australia has the spectacular Kimberley coastline – perfect for small ship cruising.

Brian Johnston reports.

CRUISE PLUS: KIMBERLEY

Zodiac trip on the King George River. Right: Kings Cascades on the Prince Regent River.

t

he Kimberley is a collision of endless islands, sapphire seas and rust-red gorges in a land where waterfalls thunder and ancient artworks imprint the rocks.

Its long coastline is convoluted and assaulted by astonishing ten-metre tides, and has barely a trace of human interference. That makes an expedition cruise the only practical way to get here, and allows even timid travellers to encounter northwest Australia’s mighty landscapes, waterfalls and the world’s greatest accumulation of rock art.

Small-ship cruises have been ticking along here for three decades, but a recent surge in interest has seen them shift into higher gear, with a 40 per cent increase in cruise-ship visits in 2019. While the coronavirus outbreak put a damper on cruises this year, there will surely be a resurgence in 2021 as Australians get back on the ocean. Plan ahead – the Kimberley cruise season is short and cabins usually sell out well in advance.

Kimberley cruise ships are generally small (from as few as a dozen passengers to no more than 200) and cater to those seeking rugged adventure without sacrificing creature comforts. Diminutive sizes and shallow draughts allow for nimbleness along this highly indented coastline; you’ll be able to slip into small bays and between scattered islands for close-up panoramas of the region’s flamboyant, orange-tinted landscapes.

Excursions by tender, Zodiac and other adventure vessels will take you even further up rivers and narrow gorges into the wilds, and allow you to disembark on un-tramped coastlines. Expect to be accompanied by an expedition team of experts in subjects such as geology, Indigenous art and marine wildlife. These experts will also give onboard lectures that provide background to your journey; topics might range from rock art to the history of European exploration in the Kimberley, and insights into its landscapes and nature.

Most cruises start or finish in Broome, where outback meets surf in a town with a heady mix of footloose travellers and well-heeled jetsetters. Broome has a stunning setting with colours that change throughout the day as tides come and go over the mangrove-lined bay. Attractions include a petite Chinatown, a crocodile farm and giant dinosaur tracks at Gantheaume Point, while magnificent Cable Beach stretches for kilometre after golden kilometre along the coastline.

The sands and explosive sunsets of Broome, while impressive, are a mere overture to the great symphony cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: KIMBERLEY

of scenery and colour of the Kimberley coast. Landscapes are fabulous and many are unusual, if not unique, but the remoteness means you’ll have these wonders all to yourself and your shipmates.

In Talbot Bay – where you might spot tawny nurse sharks circling your ship – gargantuan tides surge through a narrow opening in the escarpment, creating the famous Horizontal Falls. Zip through here in a Zodiac and it feels like riding a rollercoaster. Meanwhile, along Prince Regent River, great cubes of red rock are stacked up as if by some lost civilisation and spilling over with waterfalls. And at Montgomery Reef, the falling tide gushes down reefs, creating a series of waterfalls in the middle of the ocean. This is Australia’s largest inshore reef, stacked with hundreds of coral species, patrolled by turtles 50

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Clockwise from top: King George River; a crocodile; Montgomery Reef; a Coral Expeditions expert with rock art at Swift Bay.

and presided over by great swirling flocks of seabirds.

You’ll also sail among the 800-something islands of the Buccaneer Archipelago and along its contorted, age-old coastline where the rusting rock is darkened by bands of iron ore and humpback whales and dolphins visit its clear waters. Also sitting in startling turquoise waters are the Lacepede Islands, a precarious set of sandbanks atop coral outcrops.

They might be no more than sandy hillocks sporting mohawks of grass, but the bird life is astonishing and includes the world’s largest colony of breeding brown boobies as well

CRUISE PLUS: KIMBERLEY

as spectacular dive-bombing frigate birds, and silver gulls and crested terns that swoop like windborne bursts of confetti.

A highlight of any Kimberley cruise is a Zodiac journey down the unimaginably old King George River between red cliffs of which every outcrop might remind you of a great stone cathedral. The twin King George Falls plunge 80 metres off the cliffs to create one of Australia’s greatest but least seen spectacles. If you have deep pockets, most cruise lines also offer optional excursions by helicopter; some ships even carry their own. That lets you see sights even more spectacular, such as the thundering Mitchell Falls or inland Bungle Bungle Range, where fabulously eroded sandstone rises in shades of rust-red and purple.

The Kimberley’s ancient culture will leave you thunderstruck too. Rock ledges at excursion

destinations such as Bigge Island and Jar Island are covered in Wandjina and Gwion Gwion paintings tens of thousands of years old and hauntingly compelling.

Wandjina figures, the embodiment of lightening and cloud spirits, have distinctively large eyes and halos of barbs shooting from their heads. Gwion Gwion images are much older, depicting humanlike figures in dynamic poses that might represent people hunting or dancing. Some are perhaps 20,000 years old; it’s sometimes hard to fathom how much time has passed in the Kimberley.

Not all the history is that ancient; some rock art depicts Dutch and Indonesian vessels and sailors. The story of the underrated explorer Philip Parker King is also compelling on this journey that retraces much of his own route. You can see the name of his ship Mermaid and the date 1820 carved into a giant boab tree at Careening Bay, where the crew stopped to mend their hull.

You can also hike to the wreck of a 1942 crash-landed US Air Force plane in Vansittart Bay, crumpled as a giant silver dragonfly and overgrown by golden grass, in yet another compelling Kimberley sight.

Le Lapérouse

Sail away Several companies are operating Kimberley cruises in 2021, generally between Broome and Darwin and from March to October.

Coral Expeditions has more departures than any other operator with its classic 10-night cruises aboard the 72-passenger Coral Discoverer, 120-passenger Coral Adventurer or new 120-passenger Coral Geographer, all of which carry an excursion tender and Zodiacs.

APT operates 10-day Grand Kimberley Coast itineraries between Broome and Kununurra on the 110-passenger Island Sky. You can sail in considerable luxury on 10-day cruises with Silversea, whose 144-passenger expedition ship Silver Explorer has several lounges, two dining venues, a fitness centre and spa. Silversea also takes in the Kimberley on longer cruises between Singapore and Broome, and Broome and Cairns.

Ponant sails two luxury 184-passenger vessels, Le Lapérouse and Le Bellot, on 10-night itineraries, as well as a 13-night Aboriginal Art and two 12-day Essential Kimberley itineraries in partnership with National Geographic.

True North Adventure Cruises offers five different Kimberley itineraries of between seven and thirteen nights aboard True North, which hosts 36 passengers and carries adventure vessels and a helicopter.

Kimberley Quest operates the 18-passenger Kimberley Quest II, which has excursion tenders, a jet boat and helipad.

Its seven itineraries range from four to 21 days, the Kimberley’s longest and most comprehensive. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: TRAVEL BUBBLE

BUBBLE TROUBLE The lastest word on the plan offering hope to Australian travellers keen for a getaway. Teresa Ooi reports.

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A Left: A man in traditional costume on Aitutaki, Cook Islands. Above: White water rafting on Kaituna River, New Zealand.

lmost the same moment international borders closed during the early weeks of the pandemic, talk began of “travel bubbles” – open borders between countries with similar rates of success controlling the virus.

Australia quickly opened discussions with a number of countries with which partnerships could be formed, in the hope of helping Australia’s tourism industry recover from the blow of the international visitor ban, allow travel-hungry Aussies to take an overseas holiday, and let people visit family in other countries.

New Zealand is Australia’s best hope to kickstart international tourism, especially within cruise. After all, you could sail to New Zealand, take in the glories

of Milford Sound and sail back without meeting anyone – a real bubble.

Prime Ministers Jacinda Ardern and Scott Morrison have both said that establishing travel between the two countries is a priority, as soon as it is safe and practical.

It is certainly the most likely travel bubble in Australia’s future. Federal Tourism Minister, Simon Birmingham, has said it will be up to New Zealand how to proceed with opening up travel between the two countries.

“Perhaps we can consider, depending on the state of COVID across the Australian states, whether or not it’s appropriate to open up comprehensively with New Zealand or perhaps a more limited opening of some states and territories,” Mr Birmingham said. cruisepassenger.com.au

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Clockwise from above: Wharariki Beach, New Zealand; Doutonbori shopping strip, Osaka; Little India, Singapore.

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Tourism & Transport Forum CEO Margy Osmond is also co-chair of the Trans-Tasman Safe Border Group, an alliance of about 40 airports, airlines, health experts and governments on both sides of the ditch, which recently submitted proposed guidelines to the federal government. The group is hoping it will work out a template which can then be extended for travel to other COVID-safe countries in Asia such as Japan.

“It’s all doable. It’s just a case of New Zealand and Australia... being in the best possible position to start when required,” said Ms Osmond.

Tourism New Zealand’s general manager (Australia), Andrew Waddel, said there has been strong willingness to open up the two countries.

“There are definitely some challenging circumstances in Australia at the moment,” he told the Australian Financial Review. “We’re very hopeful both from an Australian and New Zealand perspective that a travel zone can open in the future. It’s really important for friends and family to reconnect on both

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sides of the Tasman and then the trade benefits for the travel and tourism sectors.”

Tourism expenditure between Australia and New Zealand is about $2.6 billion each, which will be a welcome boost to travel and tourism operators who have been hit hard by the loss of international visitors.

Other regions are also keen to open up travel with Australia. There has been talk about creating a travel bubble with the South Pacific, where tourism-reliant economies have been devastated by the pandemic, though officials are divided on whether to reopen their borders, with some keen to rebuild tourism and others saying it is too soon.

Vanuatu – where up to 75 per cent of tourism workers are now unemployed – remains cautious but has held talks with Australian officials about a possible travel bubble.

In Fiji, the loss of Australian and New Zealand holidaymakers, which make up two thirds of tourists in the country, is crippling its economy. Up to 340

CRUISE PLUS: TRAVEL BUBBLE hotels and resorts have closed and at least 86,000 people are jobless – around 98 per cent of the industry – according to the Fiji Hotels and Tourism Association.

Prime Minister Ardern had proposed creating a travel bubble between New Zealand and the Cook Islands – which derives 70 per cent of its GDP from tourism – but that has been put on hold until community transmission is halted.

Secretary general of the Pacific Islands Forums, Meg Taylor, said several Pacific nations were in talks with New Zealand and Australia about being included in the travel bubble, but that it was being approached with caution.

“We just don’t have strong health systems, health services and health infrastructure. If you are going to open up, you’ve got to have some security so that anyone coming into your country and your citizens as well, feel secure enough that they will be taken care of, if there is a case that comes into the country,” Ms Taylor said.

In Asia, Bali is hoping to welcome Australian tourists when it finally reopens its borders to international visitors next year.

“We have to carefully select countries. So I think Australia, New Zealand and later on, China of course, and maybe South Korea and Japan. We are studying day by day,” said Luhut Pandjaitan, co-ordinating minister for Maritime Affairs and Investment.

Discussions are also underway between Australia and Singapore about the creation of a “green lane” between the two countries, with a reduced isolation period required for Australians on arrival in Singapore.

Singapore’s Trade and Industry Minister Chan Chun Sing said he was talking to several other countries about negotiating travel agreements, including China, New Zealand and Malaysia.

The Australian government has also recently hinted that a safe corridor with Japan may be on the cards, with limited forms of travel in certain industries such as science.

The Japanese government, in turn, is considering easing restrictions with other countries where the outbreak is under control, including South Korea, Taiwan and New Zealand.

For those with itchy feet who are still wondering when can we take our first international break without having to quarantine for 14 days in at least one direction, the answer is probably not for a while.

Mr Birmingham has repeatedly warned that Australia’s international borders are likely to remain shut until next year.

“The best thing that can happen for our tourism industry right now is for people to make bookings and undertake trips within Australia where it is safe to do so, because this will help save a small business or the job of a fellow Australian,” he said.

So while there has been a lot of talk about developing travel bubbles, for this year at least, it looks as though jet-setting Australians may have to settle for holidays at home.

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CRUISE PLUS: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

WELCOME TO THE FUTURE

Without a crystal ball, the future of travel is hard to predict – but here’s what we know so far. Brittany Lazarus reports.

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CRUISE PLUS: WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

/ Travel insurance

/ Air travel

While you should not travel without it, travel insurance is in place to cover you from the unknowns and the one-in-a-million chances rather than a known disease that is actively and quickly spreading. Essentially, you are more likely to find insurance to cover you for cancellations and stolen possessions than for medical bills related to COVID-19 – and you will definitely not be covered if you are acting against a travel ban.

Finder’s insurance specialist Taylor Blackburn speaks to cruising: “From onboard medical expenses and emergency evacuation to covering your valuables and travel documents if they get lost, stolen or damaged, travel insurance will continue to be a worthy consideration for those who want to feel protected.”

Mr Blackburn also said that looking to the future, it is unlikely you will be covered for claims related to known pandemics and added that it is important to check your product disclosure statement for general exclusions and specific information.

Finder states that American Express, CoverMore, World2Cover and Easy Travel Insurance are all still providing coverage.

International airlines have to work with each Australian state or territory’s weekly passenger cap – which currently range from 0 to 2450 passengers a week – or total border closures.

Most airlines have halted Australian flights for the time being, but Qatar Airways and AirAsia continue to operate limited services.

Boarding an international flight is now like walking onto the set of a sci-fi movie. You can expect the usually primped airline staff to be dressed similarly to nurses and the airport will be almost completely empty.

Traveller Kelsey Burrows, who returned to Sydney from Ireland on one of Qatar Airways’ 23 weekly flights, said her biggest takeaway from flying internationally was how stressful it was seeing staff and other passengers in personal protective equipment.

“I watched YouTube videos and thought I knew what I was walking into, but I didn’t expect it to be so confronting,” she said.

A flight with Qatar Airways as an economy passenger requires you to wear a face shield, in addition to a face mask or covering, for the duration of the flight except when you are eating meals, which are served as normal.

Business-class passengers can wear their face shield and mask at their discretion, as they are seated with more space.

AirAsia is slightly more relaxed – passengers must bring their own mask and face shields are not mandated.

- You do not have any say in where you are quarantined.

- You must not leave the hotel for any reason.

- If your room is to be cleaned, staff will clean in full PPE gear.

In addition, if you are quarantining in NSW or Queensland, you will be charged a fee of $3000 or $2800 respectively for the fortnight.

Your food is provided, but you can also order in from delivery services. Alcohol can also be bought from the mini bar or ordered in but there are daily limits on how much you can have in your room.

Ms Burrows suggests that a loose routine can help keep you sane.

“I have specific activities I do each day, I drink enough water, wash myself and my dishes and do a workout,” she said.

“Everybody is so kind, they’ll go above and beyond for you.”

/ Cancellation When making travel plans, cover your bases. If you fall ill or restrictions are imposed, what will happen to your money?

Cancellation policies should be a deciding factor in who you book with.

Airbnb leads the way in accommodation with their Coronavirus extenuating circumstances policy; it allows full refunds on bookings made before March 14, 2020 with a travel date before September 30, and any booking if the guest is sick with COVID.

Travel insurance will continue to be a worthy consideration for those who want to feel protected.”

You can expect transitions overall to be a little slower with temperature checking, sanitisation, distribution of PPE and contactless check-ins.

There are also long delays at immigration as planes are processed separately to avoid human cross-contamination.

/ Hotel quarantine Replacing long-haul flights as the worst part of a holiday is hotel quarantine. There are mixed reviews, with the disparity largely down to the hotel in which travellers find themselves.

Consistently across all facilities: - You will undergo COVID-19 testing and be constantly monitored for symptoms.

- You must stay for 14 days.

When it comes to cruising, Viking comes out on top with the option to cancel 24 hours before departure for any reason, change fees waived. This applies to any sailing in 2021, 2022 or 2023 when booked before September 30, 2020.

Look closely at cancellation policies before booking; especially the credit or refund options offered and time frames both for cancelling and using future credit.

Be wary of companies that claim to have flexible policies but are actually just offering the bare minimum of future credit for government-imposed cancellations.

Nobody can predict exactly how travel will look in the months and years to come. What we do know for certain is that people cannot wait to travel again. cruisepassenger.com.au

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LAST WORD

Captain Vegemite Peter Lynch has the true-blue solution to the cruise pause.

I

n all the talk about the coronavirus cruise crisis, one great idea has gained no traction: an all-Aussie cruise ship.

We’re not talking about just the passengers. We mean the flag, the crew and everything else Made in Australia.

Like Vegemite, Tim Tams and Dick Smith’s biscuits, we think it might have legs (admittedly the biscuits didn’t work, but that was because Dick was undercut by Aldi– who don’t do cruise ships).

If a ship were cleaned and disinfected, crewed entirely by Australians or New Zealanders and declared COVID-free, would this satisfy state and territory health authorities?

It has precedent. Coral Expeditions is hoping to be sailing by October – one of only a handful of cruise vessels able to do so because it is crewed by Australians and New Zealanders, and flagged in Australia.

Buoyed by the idea of cruising in a COVID-free bubble, the line is taking bookings for local cruises to “remote shores and unpopulated islands”.

When Cruise Passenger proposed that the major lines consider an Aussie crew as a new model for post-COVID cruising, you could hear the laughter from Miami to Barbados. Impossible, we were told.

They believe the cost of an Australian crew would make the vessel unviable as a business. But would it?

In a distinctly unscientific piece of detective work using the back of a proverbial envelope, we pieced together a green-and-gold budget for Pacific Aria, one of P&O fans’ favourites.

According to employment site Indeed, the average support worker salary on

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Carnival is $21,340, a manager can earn $75,489 and apparently a captain earns $153,000.

Aria has a staff of 602. Let’s say 402 of the crew currently earn the support worker salary, 200 are running the ship on a manager’s rate, and one is on a captain’s salary. That makes a total annual staff bill of $23,829,480.

P&O refused to help us with these calculations so we used the pay rates of the Royal Australian Navy for our Aussie crew:

calculation. Aria carries 1,280 passengers and, assuming the sales staff do their jobs and she runs at capacity 48 weeks a year, giving you 61,440 passengers on week-long cruises to share that extra wages bill.

So using these (completely unreliable) numbers, it seems every passenger would have to stump up an extra $333.94 a week to pay for an all-Australian crew.

When we offered these numbers to P&O, the line’s spokesperson said: “Cruising is a global business and the

Like Vegemite, Tim Tams and Dick Smith’s biscuits, we think it might have legs.” an able seaman’s salary of $61,541 for our 402 wait staff, chefs and other support workers, and a petty officer’s pay of $97,272 for the 200-strong marine complement (though some would argue that Australian labour laws would mean we’d need more workers). And let’s not forget our captain on $153,000 for a total of $44,346,882.

Not quite twice as much, but close – leaving us $20,517,402 short of the cost of our green-and-gold ambitions.

We’re running out of space on our envelope but let’s make one last

recruitment of crew reflects the industry’s international scope and the longstanding nature of the business model.”

Would you spend an extra $300 a week so your ship was crewed by Australians?

When we polled our Facebook community the response was overwhelmingly positive, with most readers saying they would happily pay extra to be able to cruise again and with an all-Aussie crew.

But some, like Susan, said: “No!!! They wouldn’t work as hard, they’d be grumpy, not as friendly. NO NO NO.” We think that’s a no.

ABOVE AND BEYOND Right now, the cruise industry is working to redefine health measures globally so that it’s ready when the time comes to resume sailing.

Working in tandem with medical experts and health authorities globally, the industry is striving to learn as much as possible from the global pandemic and exceed community expectations in its response.

Cruise lines are making significant changes in their operations, so they can move forward responsibly as the world recovers from COVID-19.

Visit www.cruising.org.au for more information about the important work the cruise industry is doing.

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Pulau Meatimiarang

INDONESIA Timor Sea King George River Vansittart Bay Hunter River & Swift Bay Lacepede Islands

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Uncover Australia’s best kept secret...

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Wyndham Montgomery Reef Collier Bay Talbot Bay

AUSTRALIA

WELCOME OFFER

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The Kimberley. One of the world’s last frontiers and ultimate expedition playgrounds that never stops to amaze. From the mighty tidal movements of Montgomery Reef to Talbot Bay’s raging Horizontal Waterfalls, this tantalising ‘close-to-home’ gem is best explored from the sea. Join one of PONANT’s award-winning luxury expeditions in the Kimberley and uncover Australia’s best kept secret in 2021!

Australia’s Iconic Kimberley | Darwin to Broome or Broome to Darwin^ | 11 Days from $14,480 per person 13 departures between April and September 2021 | Book early and save up to 30%!** • Sail on modern luxury vessels, Le Bellot and Le Lapérouse featuring just 92 staterooms • Enjoy two gastronomic restaurants, panoramic sauna and outdoor infinity pool on board • Go on regular Zodiac® outings and shore visits led by a team of destination experts

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Contact your Travel Agent or one of our PONANT Consultants on 1300 737 178 (Aus) or 0800 767 018 (NZ) | reservations.aus@ponant.com | au.ponant.com

Advertised price is based on the 28 August 2021 departure in a Prestige Stateroom Deck 5. Based on the Ponant Bonus fare per person, in Australian Dollars (AUD), double occupancy, including port taxes and transfer (port to Broome town or airport), yield managed, correct at time of writing – 12/08/2020. Prices are subject to availability and can be changed at any time. ^ Itinerary from Broome to Darwin may vary from the Darwin to Broome itinerary. * Welcome Offer is per person and advertised in Australian Dollars (AUD). Offer valid for guests travelling with PONANT for the first time. Refer to au.ponant.com for full T&Cs. ** Ponant Bonus discount subject to change based on availability. Refer to au.ponant.com for full T&Cs. Photographs: © PONANT Nick Rains. ABN: 35 166 676 517.

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