Cruise Passenger – Issue 76, Winter 2019

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ISSUE 76 WINTER 2019

Wave Season preview STATE BY STATE GUIDE

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THE LATEST LUXE TRENDS

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EXPERT TIPS “Make sure your first cruise has an itinerary with two or three ports. This will give you a true taste of what cruising is and what it has to offer.”

Stephy Cole, Cruise Expert Flight Centre Castlecrag Cruise, NSW “Pack swimwear, sunscreen and a hat in your carry-on bag so you can start using the ship’s facilities as soon as you board. Let your holiday begin straightaway!”

Jo McIlvena, Cruise Expert Flight Centre Mandurah Cruise, WA “If you are looking to escape, check out the adults only retreat and pool area aboard most ships, these areas are so tranquil.”

Yvonne Barnes, Cruise Expert Flight Centre Rundle Mall, SA

CRUISE EDITION Find more cruise inspiration and information in our Travel ideas: Cruise magazine, available at Flight Centre stores and online.

In 2018, 1.35 million Australians went on a cruise.

That’s around one in 17 Aussies! According to the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) Australasia, 18 new ships are set to debut by the end of this year with a variety of itineraries, staterooms and destinations to suit all cruisers.

Cruise holidays continue to grow in popularity with close-to-home itineraries to the South Pacific, Australia, New Zealand and Asia the most frequented destinations for Australian holidaymakers.

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From river cruises along the majestic waterways of Europe or Asia to expedition ships that visit the Galapagos, Alaska and Antarctica, island-hopping on luxury yachts and even round-the-world cruises, there really is a cruise experience for everyone.

Whether you’re dipping your toe into cruising or are a regular cruiser, our Cruise Experts have the know-how to match you to your ideal cruise. Our Cruise Experts have experienced multiple nights at sea – on a variety of ships, itineraries and cruise lines – so they know cruise.

Book your cruise with Flight Centre today to take advantage of multi-cabin discounts*, the widest choice of cruise lines and interest-free holidays†.

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Discounts are valid on new bookings containing 2 or more cabins booked in a balcony category or higher. The discount is applicable to taxable portion of the cruise fare which excludes taxes, port charges, commissions, compulsory grants & discounts already applied. Full terms & conditions apply. Please ask your consultant for details. Flight Centre Travel Group Limited (ABN 25 003 377 188) trading as Flight Centre. ATAS Accreditation No. A10412. cpm_10june_12x12_cruise

CONTENTS

cruıse 32 Issue 76, Winter 2019

passenger

Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Art director/production manager Catherine Martin Sub editor Hannah Warren

90 / Subscribe & win!

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Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au

32 / Spectrum of the Seas Rebecca Wong is onboard Royal Caribbean’s biggest and newest vessel.

Part of a world cruise gives Bernadette Chua a taste of CMV’s refurbished ship.

42 / Le Lapérouse

Digital manager Rupert Orchard

Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 - Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 - International cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine

SHIP REVIEWS

38 / Columbus

Strategic partnerships manager Carolyn Mackley carolyn@bigsplashmedia.com.au 02 9356 8888

Contributors and writers Sue Bryant, Bernadette Chua, David Dickstein, Brian Johnston, Peter Lynch, Teresa Ooi, John Roberts, Hannah Warren, Rebecca Wong, Vanessa Wu.

2019 10-27 / Cruise News

Deputy editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au

W I N T E R

Ponant plus Backroads is an ideal New Zealand experience for John Roberts.

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46 / Paul Gauguin David Dickstein finds a luxury cruise is the sensible choice in French Polynesia.

50 / Crystal Symphony A Pacific cruise gives Brian Johnston a fabulous experience onboard and off.

Printed by Spotpress

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FLY-CRUISE SPECIAL

55 / Fly cruising

CRUISE MEDIA

Why more Australians are taking to the skies before they sail.

AUSTRALASIA

Cruise Passenger magazine is published by Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch

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All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Copyright Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders.

Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided.

Always consult your travel agent.

Cover: A Royal Caribbean ship in Sydney Harbour at dawn.

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58/ Destination Ports we love in Europe, Asia and North America.

64 / Long-haul flights How to survive and thrive in the air.

CRUISE PLUS

70 / Back to the future Trends we’ll be seeing in the high-end segment in the next year.

72 / Luxury on land The ultimate exclusive shore excursions.

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

Our luxury travels

W

elcome to the winter edition of Cruise Passenger. This season we’re contemplating luxury, and why we’re now such big consumers of the good life.

Our special report (from p. 69) reveals Australians take 25 per cent more luxury holidays than other international travellers.

We’re the second most frequent businessclass flyers, and 63 per cent of Australians book cruises of two weeks or more, compared with a global average of 40 per cent.

Because it’s winter, this is the season our cruise community heads overseas to discover new ports and new ships.

We’ve checked out the stunning growth of fly-cruise, and to help ensure your journey goes smoothly, we’ve produced a guide to the hottest destinations and helpful hints on how to make your flying hours pass more pleasantly.

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cruıse READERS’ CHOICE passenger

SPONSORED BY

74 / Expedition

86 / Cruise losers

Cruises that marry adventure and luxury.

Dropping kilos while onboard? It’s possible.

76 / Let’s get personal

88/ Oh, Kolkata!

The results of Virtuoso’s major survey.

Explore the city from the Taj Bengal.

78 / Pura Vida

90 / Style

A Costa Rica and Panama cruise takes Sue Bryant to the Pacific and the Caribbean.

What to pack for a luxury cruise.

84 / Sea food Marco Pierre White partners with P&O.

92 / Port schedule 94 / Last word: Dressing to impress.

WIN! FLIGHTS TO EUROPE WITH SINGAPORE AIRLINES

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Voting in our Readers’ Choice Awards has just opened, and we want YOU to help name the best crews, ships and activities.

Many new cruisers make choices based on the results of our awards, so please be generous with your time.

It’s also a great way to recognise the staff who make your holidays special, and the lines that provide the best.

Last year, we had almost 10,000 votes.

This year, our awards will be presented at a special event sponsored by our partners Singapore Airlines – the most-awarded airline in the world.

And as an incentive, two readers will be invited to attend the ceremony for a night of Champagne celebrations. Head to cruisepassenger.com.au to cast your vote.

Smooth sailing!

Peter Lynch Publisher, Cruise Passenger cruisepassenger.com.au

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THE BIG PICTURE

THE BIG PICTURE C R O A T I A As fans debate their preferences for megaliners or small ships, the yachting experience is making a strong comeback, especially in countries like Croatia where overtourism is something of a problem.

As our picture of Katarina Line’s MS Admiral shows, there is something special about travelling aboard a ship with fewer than 50 passengers.

See katarina-line.com.

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THE BIG PICTURE

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discover what makes Princess #1 cruise line in australia* 4 years running

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New Zealand

Majestic Princess® | Ruby Princess® Sydney 2015 - 2018

Bay of Islands

AUSTRALIA

Auckland Tauranga Tasman Sea

NEW ZEALAND

Fiordland National Park Scenic cruising

2019 DEPARTURES 2020 DEPARTURES 2014 - 2018

Nights

South Pacific Ocean

Wellington Akaroa

Dunedin

(Port Chalmers)

Australia & New Zealand Majestic Princess® Sydney

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Nights South Pacific Ocean

AUSTRALIA

Auckland

Melbourne

Tauranga Hobart

Tasman Sea

NEW ZEALAND

Fiordland National Park Scenic cruising

30 Sep, 1 Nov, 14 Nov, 22 Nov

2019 DEPARTURES

8 Jan, 11 Feb, 24 FebA, 8 Mar

A Itinerary varies: operates in reverse order

Akaroa Dunedin

(Port Chalmers)

15 Dec, 27 DecA

A Itinerary varies: operates in reverse order

*As voted by Cruise Passenger Magazine, Best Ocean Cruise Line Overall 2015-2018

BOOK NOW! Visit your travel agent | 1300 385 631 | www.princess.com

CruiseNews OCEAN • RIVER • ADVENTURE • PORTS

INSIDE

10 What we can expect to see in the future of cruising.

18 Your guide to Australia’s biggest wave season ever.

22 Ruby Princess returns to Australia after a facelift.

Hawaiian fire dancers performing on the beach.

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CRUISE NEWS: TRENDS

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/ Expedition cruising There is an increased demand for off-the-beatentrack travel to some of the world’s most unspoilt and remote destinations. Expedition or adventure cruises allow you to do that on smaller ships that are built to navigate tight waterways or sturdy ships designed to withstand more rugged conditions, allowing you to access locations that standard liners can’t reach. Lines are responding to demand: Seabourn has an ultra-luxury expedition ship in the works, and Ponant took delivery of Le Bougainville, their third explorer ship, last year and is planning to launch the world’s first electric-hybrid polar exploration ship in May 2021.

THE FUTURE OF CRUISING Deeper experiences, sustainability and shorter journeys are on the cards for the future, according to Cruise Lines International Association’s 2019 Cruise Trends and State of the Cruise Industry Outlook report. Here are some of their predictions:

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/ Experiential travel Cruise passengers continue to seek deeper experiences and connect with local communities at their destinations. In response, Celebrity Cruises has added new excursion options, Private Journeys and Celebrity Discoveries, which operate with no more than 24 guests. “People care about what those experiences help you become, how they change you,” said Lisa Lutoff-Perlo, CEO of Celebrity Cruises. MSC Cruises and Crystal Cruises are also creating more involved experiences with later departures and overnights stays to allow guests to explore at their leisure.

CRUISE NEWS: TRENDS

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/ Brand partnerships Enjoying the collaborations with celebrity chefs at sea? There is more to come as cruise lines continue to form partnerships to bring well-known brands onboard. Collaborations range from the appointment of Shaquille O’Neal as Carnival Cruise Line’s Chief Fun Officer to Margaritaville and Starbucks outposts on Norwegian Cruise Line ships. Celebrity Cruises has also recently announced two new partnerships, one with chef Daniel Boulud and another with the American Ballet Theatre.

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/ Shorter cruises Cruise lines have responded to demand for short holidays by offering sailings of just a few days alongside longer itineraries.

Short cruises are good for trying new ships, for busy cruisers looking for a quick getaway from work or kids, and as add-ons to cruises or land tours.

4 / Reduced overcrowding Cruise lines are working to reduce overcrowding at destinations by offering a wider variety of excursions and staggering departures to spread passengers out. In Venice, cruise companies are working with all levels of the Italian government, NGOs and the port authority to find a long-term sustainable solution that allows cruise ships to continue to visit while protecting the city. High-level global partnerships have been formed with Nature Conservancy, World Wildlife Fund, the Global Sustainable Tourism Council, and the United Nations’ World Tourism Organisation and the World Travel & Tourism Council are in talks with the cruise industry to discuss the challenges ahead.

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/ More technology at sea Investments in technology will improve guest experiences pre, during and post cruise. Many ships already use facial recognition for faster boarding and disembarkation, and next year, Princess Cruises will roll out Ocean Medallion, a wearable device that automates processes including embarkation, opening stateroom doors, ordering food and beverages and booking spa services. Some cruise lines offer apps to streamline the onboard experience; Carnival Cruise Line has already had 5 million downloads of their app. MSC Cruises’ Bellissima has Zoe, their in-cabin version of Amazon’s Alexa, which understands seven languages and can make reservations at restaurants, book shore excursions and check your onboard account. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS: TRENDS

/ Sustainability and environment The cruise industry is working hard to protect the environment and make cruise travel sustainable for the future. The industry is committed to meeting or exceeding the International Maritime Organisation’s 2030 requirements for reducing greenhouse gas emissions. The industry has also expressed support for the IMO’s centurylong vision to have a carbon-free maritime environment.

Cruise lines have incorporated green onboard technologies such as long-lasting LED lighting, less frequent laundry and single-use plastic bans. New ships are also being designed with the environment in mind, employing advanced wastewater treatment systems, exhaust gas emissions systems that reduce sulphur oxide, antifouling hull coating, and streamlined hull shapes and air lubrication systems for fuel efficiency.

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/ More ship variety

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/ Younger cruisers The new average age of cruisers is 47 – the youngest ever. Arnold Donald, president and CEO of Carnival Corporation, noted that Baby Boomers with time and money to cruise remain the largest demographic but that cruising interest is strong among millennials in search of adventure. Lines like Carnival continue to appeal to younger cruisers by offering exciting features like rollercoasters and waterslides, while unconventional lines such as Virgin Voyages offer trendy, millennial-focused ships and itineraries.

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The industry will have an increased range of options: big and small ships; liners and yachts; onboard experiences and destination focus.

With younger cruisers, adventurefocused travellers and guests seeking niche experiences, lines are coming to understand that cruising is not one size fits all. As cruise passengers become more diverse, expect vessel variety to increase with lines competing in every style and class.

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CONSECUTIVE

YEARS

2018 BEST CRUISE LINE DOMESTIC

CONSECUTIVE

YEARS

AFTA National Travel Industry Awards

2018 BEST CRUISE LINE INTERNATIONAL

AFTA National Travel Industry Awards

BOLD ISN’T B U I LT I N A D AY 2018: Symphony of the Seas® - The world’s largest cruise ship.

You can’t change the game if you play by the same old rules. That’s why 50 years later, Royal Caribbean® is still pushing the limits. From building the biggest ships in the world with surfing, skydiving and the tallest slide at sea, to redefining what you can imagine on land at our private destinations. Here’s to the seekers who inspire us. And here’s to another year bolder.

2006: First surf simulator at sea.

2009: First Zip Line at sea.

RoyalCaribbean.com.au

2016: Ovation of the Seas® arrives in Sydney.

Call 1800 754 500

CRUISE NEWS

MEDALLION ARRIVING IN AUSTRALIA Princess Cruises' high-tech device Ocean Medallion will arrive in Australia on Ruby Princess in January. It will be our first chance to experience the wearable device that assists with embarkation, books spa services, opens cabin doors and allows staff to find you wherever your are on the ship with drinks and food orders.

The device will also be on Grand Princess in March, Enchanted Princess in June, Emerald Princess in August, Coral Princess in October and Island Princess in December.

SPLENDOR'S REVAMP

CLIA TO WORK WITH NZ COMMUNITIES Cruise Lines International Association has pledged to work with the New Zealand community to combat overtourism in parts of the country.

CLIA’s managing director, Joel Katz, said the key to ensuring the community and cruisers can work harmoniously is by providing more infrastructure and attracting more cruise lines to homeport in New Zealand rather than just make short stops, which will help improve the economy. “Boosting capacity in Auckland will ensure increasing demand among both New Zealanders and international visitors can be met,” he said. Figures show a boom in the popularity of cruising among Kiwis. “This, together with the development of a new cruise berth at Lyttelton to serve Christchurch, gives us confidence New Zealand’s cruise sector will continue to grow well into the future."

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Carnival Cruise Line's Carnival Splendor is set to be homeported in Sydney in December, with several fresh features for her Down Under audience. As well as the new slides in her waterpark, Splendor will have four new restaurants onboard: Masala Tiger; Farenheit 555 steakhouse; Pizzeria del Capitano; and Seafood Shack. Splendor will also feature Funship 2.0 features, including several bars and the Serenity adults-only retreat, where 18+ passengers can hit the bar, relax in a hammock and enjoy some spa time. As an alternative, the Cloud 9 Spa spans two decks and features more than a dozen treatment rooms, a thermal suite, thalassotherapy pool and expansive gym. For guests who want the full overhaul, Cloud 9 Accommodation has 60 exclusive spa staterooms and suites that offer guests private access to the spa,

CRUISE NEWS

AMSTERDAM BANS RED-LIGHT TOURS Amsterdam has banned tours through its famous red light district, saying the tours are disrespectful and add to congestion. The tours, a popular shore excursion offered by cruise lines, will be completely forbidden by 2020. Currently, more than 1,000 guided tours pass through Oudekerksplein, the red light district’s main square, each week and during peak hours (11am-noon and 7pm-8pm) there are upwards of 25 groups in the area, disturbing residents and businesses. The city took the first step last month, banning tours after 7pm. “We are banning tours... not only because we want to prevent overcrowding in the red light district, but also because it is not respectful to sex workers,” Deputy Mayor Udo Kock said. “It is outdated to treat sex workers as a tourist attraction.”

NSW’S CRUISE GROWTH SLOWS One in 17 Australians are cruising, according to the latest Cruise Lines International Association figures. NSW residents contributed 53 per cent to that figure, which is 2 per cent less than last year.

Although Sydney is the major port for Australia, The Overseas Passenger Terminal, which is the harbour city's major cruise port and the only one capable of taking large ships, can only take one per day. Trends show the industry is building bigger ships – 18 will be launched this year, with 120 more by 2027, but because of their size, they are unable to fit under the Harbour Bridge to berth at White Bay Cruise Terminal.

A proposed site for a third terminal, outlined under the Federal Government Infrastructure Priority List, is at Port Botany.

VASCO DA GAMA TAKES TO THE SEAS Cruise & Maritime Voyages’ Vasco da Gama is plying the waters after her drydock transformation. Formerly P&O Australia’s Pacific Eden, she is the sixth ship to join CMV’s evergrowing fleet. Celebrations for the new ship coincide with the line’s tenth birthday this year, and a renaming ceremony is set for June, with the godmother yet to be announced. The 1,200-passenger ship set sail from Singapore in mid April, and will spend the northern summer cruising from Germany before taking a 53-night voyage to Australia in October to be homeported in Adelaide and Fremantle for a season. cruisepassenger.com.au

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READER COMPETITION

WIN

a $10,000 rail & sail experience with Rocky Mountaineer & Holland America Line

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READER COMPETITION

â– Thanks to our partners Rocky Mountaineer and Holland America Line, one lucky Cruise Passenger reader and their guest will win the ultimate rail and sail holiday through Canada and Alaska.

The winner of this amazing prize will relax on the Rocky Mountaineer for two days of all-daylight rail travel through the Canadian Rockies on the First Passage to the West route, then enjoy two nights in the cosmopolitan city of Vancouver.

The lucky travellers will then embark on a seven-night cruise in a Verandah Stateroom aboard Holland America Line’s Westerdam through the scenic Inside Passage to Ketchikan and majestic Glacier Bay National Park.

This prize also includes one night at the Moose Hotel & Suites in Banff, one night in a hotel in Kamloops, and transfers between hotels and the train (Banff, Kamloops and Vancouver).

This rail journey and cruise holiday is valued at $10,000 per couple.

HOW TO ENTER Go to cruisepassenger.com. au/competitions and answer this simple question: Which mountain range does the Rocky Mountaineer pass through?

Terms and conditions apply.

See cruisepassenger.com.au/ competitions

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CRUISE NEWS

FIND YOUR SHIP

A state by state guide to the wave season fleet.

T

he countdown to wave season is well underway, promising to bring new ships, fresh upgrades, and fabulous new destinations and activities.

Savvy Australians are now booking months in advance to guarantee the best cabins, so we’ve put together this exclusive guide to summer 2019/20 to help you choose your cruise right now.

/ Fremantle, WA Which lines are visiting?

Princess Cruises, Cunard, Royal Caribbean, Cruise & Maritime Voyages Homeporting ships and itineraries CMV will replace Astor with Vasco da Gama, scheduled to sail nine itineraries from Fremantle in January and February 2020.

She’ll visit west-coast ports such as Esperance, Albany, Broome and Geraldton, and head north to visit Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand.

Sun Princess will spend a record 141 days in Fremantle and sail itineraries to Southeast Asia early in the season before 18

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sailing a 55-night roundtrip cruise from Adelaide to South Africa in 2020.

Cunard will send two of their queens Down Under this summer, with Queen Elizabeth sailing the south of Australia in December 2019 and Queen Mary 2 departing Fremantle in March 2020.

Radiance of the Seas will visit on February 25, taking guests to South Australia and New Zealand on five- to 18-night itineraries.

/ Adelaide, SA Which lines are visiting?

Princess Cruises, Cunard, P&O Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages Homeporting ships and itineraries Golden Princess, Sun Princess and mighty Majestic Princess will all visit this season, causing a surge in cruise ship numbers in South Australia.

Golden Princess will visit Adelaide and the South Pacific, and she’ll also make a trip to New Zealand in January 2020. Jump onboard Majestic Princess to explore Perth, Malaysia and Singapore. Near the end of the

season, Sun Princess will sail from Adelaide to Sydney.

CMV’s Vasco da Gama will sail eight itineraries from Adelaide and she will be the first cruise ship to visit South Australia’s Wallaroo.

/ Melbourne, VIC Which lines are visiting?

Cunard, Princess Cruises, Carnival Cruise Line, P&O Cruises, Celebrity Cruises Homeporting ships and itineraries Queen Elizabeth will sail six round trips from her homeport in Melbourne, as well as two trips from Sydney, with itineraries visiting ports in New Zealand and the South Pacific.

Golden Princess will also be homeported in Melbourne and will offer 12 itineraries around the region.

While Carnival Spirit may be based in Brisbane, she’ll visit Melbourne many times this wave season. Enjoy new features added during her dry dock upgrade last year as she sails 10 to 12-night itineraries to the Pacific Islands and New Zealand. She will

CRUISE NEWS Azamara Club Cruises, P&O Australia, Ponant, Silversea, Holland America Line, Viking Ocean Cruises Homeporting ships and itineraries: This summer, Celebrity Solstice will sail Australian, New Zealand and South Pacific itineraries, as well as a Great Barrier Reef itinerary in October and January, which visits six ports on the East Coast.

Carnival Splendor, Carnival’s newest and largest ship homeported year-round in Australia, will sail out of Sydney to the Pacific Islands, Queensland and Tasmania.

P&O Cruises will have Pacific Explorer sailing short breaks and themed cruises to Eden, Moreton Island and Tasmania.

Majestic Princess is coming back to Sydney for her second season and Ruby Princess will make her debut in Australia.

Together they will offer 12- and 14-day sailings between Sydney and Auckland.

Royal Caribbean’s Ovation of the Seas is joined by Radiance of the Seas and Voyager of the Seas to sail Queensland, the South Pacific, New Zealand and Fiji on 27 itineraries of seven to 14 nights.

Oceania’s Regatta will have a bow-tostern refurbishment in September then will sail to New Zealand, Bali and Papeete.

Regent Seven Seas will also have Seven Seas Voyager, Navigator and Mariner visit this summer with itineraries sailing to Singapore, Papeete, Bali and New Zealand.

Countdown to wave season is well underway, promising to bring new ships, fresh upgrades, and fabulous new destinations and activities."

Ponant’s newest adventure ship Le Lapérouse is sailing the Kimberley until August before heading out to Asia. She will return to Australia in December to go from Sydney to Hobart before sailing New Zealand for the rest of the season.

Silversea’s Silver Muse will make a few sailings to New Zealand throughout the season, and Viking Ocean Cruises will send Viking Orion for two-week sailings to Auckland from Sydney.

/ Brisbane, QLD Which lines are visiting?

Princess Cruises, P&O Cruises, Cunard Homeporting ships and itineraries Sea Princess will call Brisbane home this season and offer voyages to New Zealand, Papua New Guinea, Queensland, South Pacific and Hawaii. She will also sail an in-depth 35-night transpacific itinerary early in the season in August. Princess will also send Sun Princess to sail a Northern Explorer itinerary for two weeks, ending in Fremantle in October. She returns in April 2020 for an epic 77-night circling of the Pacific.

Pacific Dawn and Aria will both be sailing the north of the east coast, with highlights such as the Country Music Festival at Sea sailing in December 2019 and the 1980s Tribute Cruise sailing in February 2020.

They will also make multiple round-trip sailings to the Whitsundays and other ports like Cairns and Willis Island. Pacific Aria will sail a New Guinea Island Encounter itinerary, which takes guests to Alotau, Kiriwina Island and Conflict Islands in Papua New Guinea.

Brisbane will also have Queen Elizabeth stop in on Australian sailings.

also take a Melbourne Cup-themed cruise, departing Sydney on 3 November for a six-night round trip with three days in Melbourne complete with transfers and tickets to fabulous Flemington racecourse for both Melbourne Cup and Oaks Day. Pacific Aria has a dedicated five-night itinerary to explore Tasmania, short themed breaks including a comedy cruise, and sailings to Sydney.

Celebrity Solstice will sail from Melbourne on a 10-night Australia and New Zealand itinerary in February 2020.

/ Sydney, NSW Which lines are visiting?

Carnival Cruise Line, Princess, Royal Caribbean, Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania, Regent Seven Seas, Celebrity Cruises,

Left: Sydney Harbour at dusk.

Right: a Melbourne laneway.

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CRUISE NEWS

HAL CHARGES FOR EXTRA MAINS Going for seconds on Holland America Line may soon add to your bill as much as your waistline. Earlier this year the line trialled charging US$10 if guests ordered a second main meal in the main dining room on Nieuw Amsterdam, Eurodam, Zuiderdam and Oosterdam. Passengers can still have one main and multiple entrees and desserts without a surcharge. “Guests occasionally order additional main courses they simply can’t finish,” the line said in a statement. “[We have] made great efforts to reduce food waste...[this will] better determine if guests who order a second [main] will truly enjoy it.” Reception from passengers has been mixed; some complain the move is a blatant money grab, while others counter that ordering more than one main is unnecessary.

CRUISE SHIPS TO SLOW DOWN Cruisers may be facing longer sea days and fewer stops at ports under a new proposal for speed limits for passenger ships. The International Maritime Organisation (IMO), the UN’s shipping regulator, is considering a proposal to enforce speed limits on ships to help meet an international target of halving greenhouse emissions by 2050. The proposed limit will restrict ships to 16 knots; the current average cruise ship speed is about 15 knots and top speeds are 22 knots.

Some countries already enforce cruise ship speed limits; in Canada to protect whales and in the Norwegian fjords to reduce pollution. A spokesperson from Carnival Corporation said they are following the debate closely and that they already aim for "optimum speed between one port and another for maximum guest comfort and efficiency of fuel and also making the best use of the time in port for guest experience.”

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AZAMARA EXPANDS OVERNIGHT OFFERING Boutique cruise line Azamara Club Cruises has released its winter/spring itineraries for 2021/22, featuring more than 140 overnight stays around the world as part of the line’s signature destination immersion program. In 2021, Azamara will offer more overnights in France and Spain than ever, allowing time for excursions like an Andulasian cooking workshop and a visit to Château de Goulaine. Azamara’s expanded Complete Istanbul itinerary features three overnights in Turkey’s largest city, including a tour of the bustling city centre, as well as trips to ancient monuments and hidden gems at ports of Antalya and Sinop. The line will also call at 10 new ports, including Amami Islands in Japan, Arica in Chile, Brest in France, Fraser Island in Australia.

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FROM BNE, SYD, MEL, ADL, PER. *Prices are correct at time of publication, are based on twin-share per person & subject to availability & currency fluctuations. Terms & Conditions apply. Prices subject to change without notice, until reservation is confirmed. Gratuities are not included and are payable onboard. Flights may not be direct or operate daily. **Low deposit terms apply.

Multiple sail dates between May & September available. For full terms & conditions visit MyCruises.com.au. My Cruises provides holiday packages offered by Ignite Holidays Pty Ltd & is a subsidiary of Ignite Travel Group. ATAS Accreditation No. A10345.

CRUISE NEWS

READY FOR RUBY

roasted sunchokes, duck leg confit and toffee cheesecake. For extra appeal, the menu has been carefully paired with various Australian wines.

The eagerly awaited reappearance of Ruby Princess has Teresa Ooi excited.

/ Princess Luxury Bed

f

resh from a multi-million-dollar facelift, Ruby Princess is heading Down Under in late October for a summer season in Sydney. Homeported in Sydney, the 3,080-passenger ship will offer a number of itineraries to the Pacific Islands, New Zealand, and around the coast of Australia with calls at the Great Barrier Reef and Tasmania. Here's what we're looking forward to when she arrives:

/ Voice of the Ocean Ruby Princess will showcase Princess Cruises' hit The Voice of the Ocean, based on the popular TV show The Voice. The competition starts as soon as passengers embark; guests watch the karaoke tryouts and select contestants to be assigned mentors and move to the next stage. Throughout the cruise, guests can watch rehearsals with a big band, backup singers, spectacular lighting and audio effects. On the last night of the voyage the final show is hosted by the Cruise Director and judged by three high-profile cruise members – the captain might even be in the hot seat.

/ SHARE by Curtis Stone Famed Australian chef Curtis Stone’s partnership with Princess Cruises has resulted in the delectable specialty restaurant SHARE, which, as the name suggests, is designed to be a shared dining experience. A six course meal offers options such as a charcuterie board, fresh pork ravioli with green curry filling, ricotta cavatelli with 22

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Above: the aft pool onboard. Below: a plate of scallops at SHARE.

The premium line has a special signature offering that helps guests get a good night's rest onboard. Beds on Ruby Princess were engineered by sleep expert Dr Michael Breus to feature a plush two-inch thick pillow top, a nine-inch medium-firm mattress for enhanced support, individually wrapped coils for less partner disturbance and jacquard-woven cotton linens. The bed will certainly help with Princess's promise to help guests come back new.

/ Slice Pizzeria Reputed to be the best at sea, the Neopolitan-style pizza is hand-tossed and freshly baked at Slice Pizzeria, right on the top deck. Try a deep dish focaccia, a Californian artisanal toast or a classic Italian calzone stuffed with deli meats and cheeses. It’s almost impossible to pass by without grabbing a slice or two.

ADVERTORIAL

JACKIE’S CRUISE VALUE TIPS The expert who has spent 2,434 days at sea shares her secrets for getting the most from your cruise booking.

MEGALINERS BOUND FOR AUSTRALIA For the first time in October next year, Royal Caribbean’s 2,097-passenger Serenade of the Seas will sail from Sydney’s Overseas Passenger Terminal. The 2,146-passenger Radiance of the Seas, which is currently based in Sydney, will undergo a multi-million dollar makeover before moving north to Brisbane’s new International Cruise Terminal at Luggage Point, her home from November 2020 to April 2021. Voyager of the Seas will also head for Sydney in October 2020 carrying 3,114 passengers, and the 4,180-passenger Ovation of the Seas will return Down Under for her fifth season. The four ships will offer more than 80 sailings, with two to 19-night itineraries to destinations in the South Pacific, New Zealand and Australia.

NCL’S DOWN UNDER ITINERARIES

When is the best time of year to book to get a good deal?

The earlier you book the better deals you tend to get!

Most lines have sales when they release a new program so you can take advantage of reduced fares and deposits, and add extras like onboard credits and drink packages.

Don’t assume you’ll find the best deals online – we often get deals that aren’t advertised, and by talking to your Flight Centre cruise specialist agent you can find great savings. If you are able to get away at short notice, your agent can keep you informed of any last-minute deals.

What are some of the new hot destinations?

Cuba, Iceland, Galapagos, Japan and the Artic, Croatia, and, for river cruising, Russia and Egypt What should you look for when booking your ship?

Don’t just pick the ship and itinerary on price alone. If you’re looking for a romantic getaway, you don’t want to find yourself on a ship full of families with kids. If you are a family, you want to make sure you’re on a ship with lots of activities and clubs for the kids. With more families cruising with multiple generations, it can be hard to get the right balance and make sure everyone is happy. Speak to your Flight Centre cruise specialist agent for help picking the best cruise.

What are some of the most popular cruises and why?

Close-to-home cruising is still our most popular, as it is really good value for money for the whole family – no flights or only short domestic flights required. More and more cruise lines are sending their ships to cruise out of Australia each year.

What trends are coming up in the cruising world?

Norwegian Cruise Line has revealed select 2020 and 2021 itineraries, with Norwegian Jewel returning for her fourth season to sail Australia and New Zealand. Jewel will sail French Polynesia, Hawaii and South Pacific cruises on 11 to 21-day itineraries, as well as one-way itineraries between Sydney and Auckland and two departures from Port Kembla to Auckland.

Other highlights for the line include Norwegian Spirit sailing in Asia from Tokyo and Hong Kong after an extensive multimillion-dollar revitalisation in early 2020; new ship Norwegian Encore making her debut in Seattle before sailing Alaska; and Norwegian Joy making her first arrival in New York.

Exclusive experiences such as specialty dining with world renowned chefs, immersive cultural experiences, private island ports of call and smarter technology onboard.

Luxury expedition cruising is getting more popular with 29 new expedition ships currently on order.

Cruise Expert Jackie Heiron from Flight Centre Mona Vale is a veteran of 74 cruises. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call our dedicated Cruise line 13 70 79.

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CRUISE NEWS

END OF THE LINE FOR TOWEL ANIMALS

DUBLIN HALVES CRUISE CALLS, AFTER DOUBLIN’ NUMBERS

One of cruising’s most charming traditions, the appearance of an adorable towel animal on beds, is in jeopardy. Norwegian Cruise Line is trialling the removal of towel animals in an effort to reduce water waste, as towels used for the animals are required to be washed every day, whether or not a guest uses them. “We are committed to being a responsible corporate citizen by fostering a culture of awareness and respect for our world’s resources," the line said in a statement. "Our mission is to continually improve our sustainability... As such, from time to time we explore opportunities to expand our efforts." The line will, however, provide animals free of charge on request.

Dublin has joined a list of popular European destinations cracking down on cruises, aiming to halve the number of calls made by ships by 2021.

In a statement, the Dublin Port Authority said that due to the rising number of cruise ships stopping at the port, and “huge growth” in cargo volumes, it will reduce the number of cruise ships that call there annually to 80. Currently, 160 cruise ships are due to stop at Dublin in 2019 and 140 have already made bookings for 2020. CLIA said the changes will effectively limit visits to two large cruise ships per week in the summer season and one per week in winter, and zero turnarounds. The port authority has said that if it was to cater for more ships, more berths would need to be built which would require co-financing or long-term financial guarantees from the cruise lines.

DREAM CRUISES TO SAIL FROM SYDNEY

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Dream Cruises, Asia’s first premium line, has released additional Australian itineraries for 2019 on the line’s first ship homeported in Sydney. Explorer Dream will be based at White Bay Cruise Terminal and she will make her first departure from Sydney on October 27. Explorer Dream is the third addition to the Dream Cruises fleet; she was formerly SuperStar Virgo and the 1,856-passenger vessel was relaunched in April after an extensive refit. Explorer Dream will offer seven-night coastal cruises to Queensland and Tasmania, and two to five-night itineraries including one-way and weekend cruises from Brisbane, Newcastle and Sydney. The line also has a new seven-night Newcastle roundtrip sailing on November 25.

CRUISE NEWS

WINDSTAR TO STRETCH SHIPS

Small-ship cruise line Windstar Cruises has unveiled Star Plus, a $362 million initiative to stretch and refurbish its three vessels.

Star Breeze, Star Legend and Star Pride will be cut in half and have a new section inserted to lengthen each vessel by 25.6 metres.

This will stretch them to more than 159 metres and add 50 new suites to each ship, for a total of 156. The new sections will be built in Fincantieri’s shipyard in Trieste, and transported south by barge to be inserted into the ships at the yard in Palermo. The renovation will also add two new dining venues, more seating at main restaurant Veranda, a new retail space, a new spa and an extended fitness area. Work is scheduled to start in October this year and end by November next year.

CROATIA BY PRIVATE YACHT 2020 EXCLUSIVE BICTON TRAVEL CHARTER

PREMIUM FLY, TOUR & CRUISE HOLIDAY

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13,995pp

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HOSTED HOLIDAY INCLUDES

Flights from Australia* to Venice

Bicton Travel Host^

5nt Slovenia tour including sightseeing and breakfast daily

8nt Croatian yacht cruise onboard MV Queen Eleganza including

Signature experiences and beverages onboard your cruise

Flights from Dubrovnik to Australia*

All transfers, sightseeing and many meals as per itinerary

TOUR HIGHLIGHTS Ljubljana (2nts) • Lake Bled (2nts) • Plitvice Lakes (1nt)

CRUISE HIGHLIGHTS Opatija (overnight) • Krk • Rab (overnight) • Pag • Zadar (overnight) • Kornati Islands • Radošić • Šibenik (overnight) • Krka National Park • Hvar (overnight) • Vis (overnight) • Biševo • Korčula (overnight) • Mljet • Dubrovnik (overnight) PROUDLY WA OWNED & OPERATED T 08 9339 0177 7X WINNER CLIA CRUISE AGENCY OF THE YEAR E journeys@bictontravel.com.au W bictontravel.com.au/exclusive-journeys 3X WINNER AFTA TRAVEL AGENCY OF THE YEAR Prices correct 03/04/2019 per person twin share including port charges and cruise gratuities, *based on Perth departure, call for other capital cities. Promotional fares are subject to availability. Flights and accommodation are at the discretion of Bicton Travel. ^Host is subject to minimum numbers. This itinerary is not suitable for guests with limited mobility. Travel insurance is a requirement of travel. Payment by credit card attracts a merchant fee. Full terms and conditions provided at the time of booking.

CRUISE NEWS

SCENIC ECLIPSE LAUNCH ON TRACK The highly anticipated arrival of Scenic Eclipse is still on track for August 15, and in April the ship was filmed on her first journey outside the Uljanik Shipyard. Eclipse’s debut has been delayed a number of times due to financial issues at Croatia’s Uljanik shipyard, and strikes that have taken place over the last six to eight months. Scenic’s subcontractors have continued work on Eclipse and construction is back on track after Fincantieri Group ship builders stepped in to help. Scenic representatives recently previewed Eclipse and according to Rob Huffman, vice president of trade sales for Scenic Luxury Cruises and Tours, the staff were "absolutely wowed... We’re really excited about the future,” he told Travel Market report. “The renderings don’t come close to the real deal.” The ship's captain, James Griffiths, is a seasoned veteran who has worked with Lindblad and Windstar, and the new culinary director, Guillermo Muro, formerly worked with Seabourn. Eclipse, the first ocean ship for Scenic, will accommodate 228 guests in staterooms ranging from 33 to 232 square metres, offer several dining options, and be equipped with Zodiacs, kayaks, e-bikes, two helicopters and a submarine that can travel down to 300 metres. The Polar-class ship will be able to explore the Arctic and Antarctic, but her first itineraries will sail the Mediterranean.

REGENT, OCEANIA SERVE UP PLANTS Vegans rejoice! Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas have expanded their range of plantbased menu options to tickle the tastebuds of those who eschew all animal products. As part of the OceaniaNEXT initiative, Oceania partnered with world-renowned chef, culinary instructor and author Christophe Berg to add plant-based dishes such as poke bowls, pastas, pad Thai, salads, soups and even decadent items like an “Impossible Cheeseburger” and a truffle mac and “cheese”.

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CRUISE NEWS

CONTRACTS SIGNED ON TWO NEW VIKING SHIPS Viking Ocean Cruises and Fincantieri have signed contracts for the first two of six new ships, to be delivered in 2024 and 2025. The new ships will have a similar design to Viking’s current ocean fleet, with accommodation for 930 passengers in 465 all-balcony staterooms, but will be fitted with the most up-to-date technology. “Fincantieri will develop an advanced project based on the successful characteristics of the previous ships, upgraded and revisited in line with the latest available technologies,” said the Italian shipyard in a statement. The two ships are part of the six-ship agreement announced in March last year, with deliveries expected up till 2027. Viking is steadily expanding its fleet: the sixth vessel, Viking Jupiter, was just delivered last month and is currently sailing the Mediterranean and Northern Europe. The line’s seventh and eighth ships, Viking Venus and Viking Tellus, are scheduled to launch in 2021.

NEW SHIP FOR CORAL Adventure cruise line Coral Expeditions has a new ship Coral Geographer, under construction in Vietnam, due to be delivered by 2020.

The new ship will be the fifth in the fleet and will be a sister ship to the 210-guest Coral Adventurer. Adventurer was built with a shallow draft, ideal for the South Pacific and Australia. She features a wrap-around deck which gives guests panoramic views, passengers can take engine room tours and the open galley gives diners the option to watch the chefs in action.

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SIA NAMED BEST CARRIER AGAIN TripAdvisor has named Singapore Airlines as the world’s best in this year's annual Travellers' Choice Awards for Airlines. The award came as no surprise to Singapore Airlines, who also won in 2018.

“We are very pleased to be the back-toback winner of the Best Airline in the World accolade in these prestigious awards,” said Singapore Airlines CEO Goh Choon Phong.

“We wish to thank our customers for their ongoing support, as well as our staff from all around the world who go the extra mile every day to deliver the best travel experience to our customers.”

READERS’S CHOICE

cruıse passenger

READERS’ CHOICE SPONSORED BY

HELP US RATE YOUR FAVOURITES SINGAPORE AIRLINES, THE WORLD’S MOST AWARDED CARRIER, IS NOW PART OF THE READERS’ CHOICE TEAM

C

ruise Passenger’s Readers’ Choice Awards have grown to be one of the largest in Australia. Last year, we had a record number of entries across a number of categories and this year we have even more awards; this is your opportunity to vote for your favourite cruise lines, ships and staff. This is also the first year we’ll be holding a special Cruise Passenger Reader’s Choice Awards ceremony where winners will be announced and recognised for their amazing efforts in the cruise industry with a champagne celebration.

Crews work hard to make holidays great – reward them with your vote.

The Readers' Choice Awards’ well-deserved prestige comes from being a much-valued insight into the views of Australia’s cruising community.

As such, CLIA places great importance on the Awards as a barometer of public sentiment.’

Sture Myrmell, Chair of Cruise Lines International Association Australiasia.

VOTE TICKETS TO WIN WIN Tell us in 25 words or less, what you would do to improve Australian cruise ships.

You’ll go in the draw to win two tickets to Cruise Passenger’s Readers’ Choice Awards event in October.

Just head to cruisepassenger.com. au/readerschoice to enter. Ts&Cs on our website.

VOTE AT CRUISEPASSENGER.COM.AU/READERSCHOICE cruisepassenger.com.au

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aranuicruises.com.au E info@aranuicruises.com.au P 1300 485 846

CruiseReviews INSIDE Spectrum of the Seas 32

Columbus in Japan 38

Le LapĂŠrouse with Backroads 42

Paul Gauguin in French Polynesia 46

Crystal Symphony in New Zealand 50

Paul Gauguin guests jetski in Huahine.

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31

SHIP REVIEW: SPECTRUM OF THE SEAS

The first Royal Caribbean Quantum Ultra-class ship is a delight for kids of all ages. Rebecca Wong sets sail on the vessel’s inaugural Asian voyage.

Spectrum of the Seas in all her glory.

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SHIP REVIEW: SPECTRUM OF THE SEAS

FULL SPECTRUM cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: SPECTRUM OF THE SEAS

It

wasn’t at all what we expected. It was a public holiday and 4,400 people were onboard mega liner Spectrum of the Seas.

We imagined crowded pool decks, long lines during lunch and all the inconveniences that come with cruising on a mini city. But our big question throughout the cruise was: Where is everyone?

Spectrum is a well-oiled machine −and a massive one at that. At 347 metres long and 41 metres wide, she’s slightly larger than both Anthem and Ovation of the Seas − her sister ships in the Quantum class.

At present, she’s also Asia’s largest and most expensive ship, with a building cost of US$940 million.

Fittingly, given she’s homeporting in Shanghai, Spectrum is very much designed for the Chinese market. This is apparent in specialty dining venues such as Sichuan Red, a new restaurant featuring delicacies from China’s Sichuan province. There’s also the debut of Star Moment − a glitzy karaoke venue where guests can belt out Mandarin and English tunes.

The in-room TV offers Chinese movies and Chinaowned TV channels.

Nevertheless, Spectrum’s appeal is very much international. Ship decor is classy and minimalist, with modern paintings by artists from around the world.

We loved her layout and design. Though it did take a while to orientate ourselves, most dining places and facilities were extremely accessible from staterooms.

We were on a round-trip from Singapore, so the bulk of guests were Singaporeans. But the cruise also saw its fair share of guests from other parts of Asia, Europe and the US. Spectrum is best enjoyed with loved ones, family or close friends. We saw families everywhere letting loose and genuinely having a good time. There were birthday celebrations, family selfies and even an Indian wedding in the main dining room.

And this ship is made for multigenerational travel – the number one growth area in all travel sectors.

The Ultimate Family Suite is a two-level, 261-square-metre suite accommodating up to 11 guests, with three bedrooms, a slide to the living area and a sprawling recreation room for karaoke, movies and video games. Your extended family will love it.

But even if you opt for a stateroom, the ship itself has loads to see and do for guests of all ages. In fact, we didn’t get off for shore excursions at all, opting to stay onboard to enjoy the many features.

Here’s what we did:

/ Activities Spectrum’s a ship for families, and the endless activities on offer are a testament to that. We unleashed our inner kid and tried as many of them as we could.

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Spectrum is best enjoyed with loved ones, family or close friends. We saw families everywhere letting loose and having a good time.”

Clockwise from right: Skypad in action; Spectrum from above; North Star observation pod.

A new highlight is the Skypad, a virtual reality bungee trampoline experience. It’s good fun for kids, though we encountered some technical issues with the VR headsets and felt slightly motion sick afterwards.

Our personal favourites were the FlowRider surfing simulator and a laser tag battle over at the Seaplex.

The indoor sporting complex also features a rotating schedule of activities like bumper cars, fencing, basketball and soccer.

We recommend making reservations in advance for favourites like the North Star observation pod and iFly skydiving simulator − those were completely booked out by the first evening. And if you want to do absolutely nothing, there are plenty of comfortable lounges to grab a cocktail and relax.

SHIP REVIEW: SPECTRUM OF THE SEAS

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Royal Caribbean VESSEL: Spectrum of the Seas STAR RATING: NYR PASSENGER CAPACITY: 5,622 TOTAL CREW: 1,551 PASSENGER DECKS: 14 ENTERED SERVICE: 2019 TONNAGE: 169, 379 FACILITIES: Eateries, bars and lounges, pools, surf and skydiving simulators, North Star pod, rock climbing wall, theatre, casino, spa and fitness centre, karaoke, library, medical centre, outdoor movie screen and kids’ club.

BOOKINGS: See royalcaribbean. com.au.

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SHIP REVIEW: SPECTRUM OF THE SEAS

THE VERDICT HIGHS: Comfortable cabins, quality food options and plenty of fun activities. The well-designed ship is very much the destination.

LOWS: We bought a WiFi package, but WiFi was spotty throughout the trip. The Seaplex could have used a locker area, as guests had to leave their bags lying around during activities.

Slow baggage delivery to rooms.

BEST SUITED TO: Multi-generational families, firsttime cruisers and millennials travelling with friends.

/ Cabins We stayed in an Ocean View Balcony cabin on Deck 8. Decked in a modern blue, beige and brown colour scheme, our roomy cabin was equipped with a comfy Royal King Bed, plenty of lighting, a long sofa, an in-room safe and ample storage space.

We did wish it came with more amenities though.

Only two bars of soap, towels and a shampoo dispenser were provided. Bottled water on each sailing day would have been nice too − only one was given on the first evening.

Spectrum also includes Royal Caribbean’s first Suite Club, which we had a chance to tour. Located on Decks 13 through 16 at the ship’s forward end, the keycardaccessed enclave houses guests in Golden and Silver Suite accommodations.

In addition to a private elevator and exclusive dining and lounge venues, suite guests can also 36

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access a private outdoor balcony and a plush boutique for private shopping experiences.

Clockwise from above: the Ultimate Family Suite; a young guest enjoys iFly; Spectrum at port in Singapore.

/ Dining With 17 dining venues (including eight specialty restaurants), you’ll never go hungry. I confess that we ate practically half our bodyweight worth of food, and ended each day feeling more than satisfied.

For breakfast, make a beeline for The Cafe at Two70, which serves an array of breakfast cereals, pastries, fruit, bread and burritos. The bagels are delicious, as is the chilli con carne burrito.

Our experience at the main dining room was superb too, with attentive wait staff and timely food service.

Unlike other Royal ships, Spectrum has an airy, grand main restaurant instead of four separate dining rooms.

While we found the fish options there a little bit dry and tough, the crab cake starter, steak with baked potato and beef Wellington are worth the calories.

The apple pie with vanilla ice cream was a favourite with our dinner party as well.

Another highlight was specialty restaurant Jamie’s Italian. Alongside the generous pasta portions, our group enjoyed the tasty starters like the crispy polenta

SHIP REVIEW: SPECTRUM OF THE SEAS

Spectrum’s a ship for families, and the endless activities on offer are a testament to that.”

chips, and mouth-watering desserts such as the lemon meringue cheesecake and the raspberry rippled pavlova.

/ Entertainment We saw shows on all three cruising nights, and were blown away by the high production values and talent.

One of the highlights is The Silk Road at venue Two70. An original production by Royal Caribbean, it centres around the culture, music and dance of countries like China, Persia and India. Featuring a mix of singers, contortionists, aerialists and dancers, the show impressed with lively performances all-round.

Over at the Royal Theatre, Showgirl! Present. Future. stunned with Broadway-worthy vocal performances, dazzling choreography and head-turning costumes.

An acrobatic dance duo from Ukraine’s Got Talent also wowed the audience with their death-defying feats on the cruise’s final night.

Theatrical performances aside, you’ll encounter plenty of solid music acts just by wandering the ship and poking your head into the various lounges. From The Beatles cover bands to silent discos, on Spectrum of the Seas, the music and dancing never really stop. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: CMV COLUMBUS

Aye, Columbus

Bernadette Chua joins this gracefully refurbished ship for one leg of her fabulous world cruise.

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Yokohama Port at sunset.

Inset: Yokohama’s Chinatown.

a

s Cruise & Maritime Voyages’ Columbus pulls away from the docks of Yokohama, there are dozens of people grooving to the music for the sail-away party. It’s a very different vibe from the events that took place on these decks, when this was Pacific Pearl sailing Australian waters three years ago.

There is the same energy and enthusiasm, but perhaps a little more dignity from an older demographic determined to wring every last drop of enjoyment and excitement from their travels.

The music is coming from a spunky Japanese jazz band. It’s awesome – if a little different to what one might expect. Columbus is different too. It has been transformed into a very traditional British vessel, one full of rather nice surprises like a shore excursion to Japanese baths where we were buried in sand.

She is now owned and operated by Cruise & Maritime Voyages, an unashamedly British cruise company that is providing extraordinary value to a cruise passenger able to take longer voyages.

I came onboard in Yokohama, the ship’s first visit to the port, for one leg of a world voyage. Many of my fellow passengers joined the cruise in Sydney, the first port of the itinerary, and have been at sea for the last two months.

Columbus is now home for these grey nomads, a mixture of British, Australian and German cruisers.

And this is apparent in the atmosphere – they seem well acquainted with one another, and there is a lot of excited chatter among groups about their adventures after a day in Tokyo.

There is no other way to describe the ship but lovely. While she doesn’t have big bells and whistles, such as dozens of specialty restaurants and bars or flashy décor, she’s clean, modern and sophisticated. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: CMV COLUMBUS She is British cruising at its best – but without the expensive price tag.

We meet at The Dome for pre-dinner drinks and to watch the sail away party, then make our way to dinner at one of the specialty restaurants, an upmarket steakhouse called The Grill with an extensive menu of surf and turf options. It’s a lovely start to the cruise, but I admit to being defeated by the 300-gram sirloin.

Our first day at sea is spent exploring the ship. We rather like Connexions, a stylish bar on Deck 7 decorated with wicker furniture, palm tree-printed cushions and kitsch ornaments, and the Taverner’s Pub, reminiscent of a old-fashioned British watering hole with its deep mahogany chairs and tables, comfy banquettes and moody lighting.

There are lots of public spaces, which are put to good use on sea days with quizzes, bingo, arts and crafts, Zumba, talks and even choir practice.

Columbus on the open sea.

Opposite page, from top: Deluxe Balcony Ocean View room; the writer enjoying Ibusuki sand; the Chef’s Table.

We also have a peek at some of the different accommodation options. The junior suites are the top accommodation offering, and have a lounge area with a king-sized bed, balcony and walk-in wardrobe, and a bathroom with a large vanity and a tub. I’m in a well-appointed oceanview stateroom, which has a comfortable bed, a small sitting area, a desk and plenty of wardrobe space.

There are sun beds on Decks 12 and 14 that, I am told, are among the most popular places on the ship for the Brits and Germans during the warmer parts of the cruise. But as we are sailing during a Japanese spring, the air is cold and the wind biting, and we find most passengers tucked around the bars and in Hemingway’s coffee shop finishing off crossword puzzles.

After rounds of quizzes and bingo, watching choir practice and even a nap, it’s time for pre-dinner drinks and the show, which, due to rocky weather, has been

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: CMV VESSEL: Columbus STAR RATING: 2+ PASSENGER CAPACITY: 1,550 TOTAL CREW: 514 PASSENGER DECKS: 12 ENTERED SERVICE: 1998 TONNAGE: 63,786 FACILITIES: Restaurants, bars, theatre, spa/gym, pools, library, laundry, casino.

BOOKINGS: See cmvaustralia.com.

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SHIP REVIEW: CMV COLUMBUS changed at the last minute from a production of Hello, Dolly! to tunes from the Rat Pack.

On a personal note, I’ve never been the biggest fan of cruise-ship entertainment but this was short, sharp and unassuming. While not the glitziest of productions, three guys belting out the classics from Sinatra et al. is thoroughly enjoyable.

Dinner tonight is at Fusions, the other specialty restaurant, serving Indian fare cooked in a traditional tandoor oven built outside on the deck. It’s another delightful meal of butter chicken, lamb rogan josh and paneer, with kulfi and decadent gulab jamun to finish.

Unsurprisingly, it’s a favourite with British guests.

Other dining options on the Lido deck or in the Waterfront restaurant, offer plenty of choice including German cold meat platters and steak and ale pie.

When Columbus docks, there are a range of shore excursions that are appropriate for all fitness levels and interests.

In Kagoshima, a small port at the southernmost tip of the mainland of Japan famous for its active volcanoes, samurai history and sand baths with healing properties, I join a shore excursion to try the black sand for myself. We visit Ibusuki Onsen, located in the grounds of a hotel surrounded by well-manicured gardens, though our guide tells us there are also common sand baths, open to the general public.

At the baths, we undress and put on thin cotton yukata, then go outside to lie in grooves dug into the black sand. The sand is naturally heated by the volcanic activity below the earth, and supposedly helps reduce fatigue, poor circulation, joint pain and muscle pain, as well as improving the appearance of your skin.

It is an odd sensation, being semi-buried up to your neck, and it’s slightly macabre seeing dozens of people lined up in what looks like miniature graves. But when the guides dig you out after the recommended 10 minutes you’re relaxed and, I like to think, looking a few years younger.

The only downside to this cruise is how much I add to my waistline as I enjoy a daily full English.

Columbus is a revelation and, I suspect, the face of a growing segment of the cruise industry: well-priced journeys on refurbished ships gracefully taking their passengers the long way home.

CMV is an unashamedly British cruise company providing extraordinary value.”

THE VERDICT HIGHS: Cruise & Maritime Voyages’ world itineraries take you to some lesser-known ports. The ship is homey and comfortable and surprisingly well priced.

LOWS: During sea days, there might not be as many activities to entertain younger guests, given the average demographic of passengers. Also, you may encounter the odd grumpy German tourist, like I did.

BEST FOR: Grey nomads and cruisers who like a relaxed pace.

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SHIP REVIEW: PONANT LE LAPÉROUSE

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Ponant VESSEL: Le Lapérouse STAR RATING: NYR PASSENGER CAPACITY: 180 TOTAL CREW: 110 PASSENGER DECKS: 6 ENTERED SERVICE: 2018 TONNAGE: 10,000 FACILITIES: Restaurant, lounges, theatre, spa, pool, library and gym.

BOOKINGS: See ponant.com.

Cycling near Wellington, North Island.

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SHIP REVIEW: PONANT LE LAPÉROUSE

The Ponant and Backroads partnership is the perfect way to combine adventure exploring and luxury cruising. John Roberts hits the trail.

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he Maori were the first to discover New Zealand, arriving on voyaging canoes at what they called Aotearoa, the Land of the Long White Cloud, 800 years ago.

While the voyage the Maori embarked on was no doubt thrilling, modern-day ocean cruisers can discover the country by water on active adventures of their own – without all the perils of endless hours of paddling a canoe on turbulent open waters that characterised that great Polynesian migration.

Ponant has partnered with activetravel company Backroads to offer a cruise to New Zealand that combines luxury with adventure aboard Ponant’s Le Lapérouse. This 180-passenger luxury expedition vessel, the first of the line’s six Explorer-class ships, is perfect for a partnership with Backroads, which made its mark 40 years ago with land tours focusing on hiking and biking. The collaboration lets Backroads take active explorers to the oceans, which is the best way to experience a coastal wonderland like New Zealand.

I join my 23 fellow Backroads passengers in Auckland for a nine-day voyage with a daily call sheet very different to that of the 140 other passengers on Le Lapérouse.

We all sail to the same scenic ports, of course, departing Auckland to visit Tauranga, Napier, Wellington, Picton and Fjordland National Park before ending our voyage at Dunedin on the South Island. But in these destinations, our Backroads guides Katie, Brandon and Max lead us away from our creature comforts and out into the wilderness for a range of exhilarating hiking, biking and kayaking activities.

Our group of adventurous souls – all from the U.S. and most, like me, experiencing their first visit to New Zealand – arrive as solo travellers, couples or foursomes. We quickly form a tight-knit family as we share time paddling, pumping pedals and huffing and puffing along rocky trails, as well as fine wine and hearty meals back on the ship as we re-retell stories of our day’s accomplishments.

On day one, we meet early in the morning at the Auckland Hilton and drop our luggage with Backroads support staff who take it straight to Le Lapérouse. Before we even lay eyes on the ship, we are off on a ferry to Waiheke Island for hiking and our first group lunch at Cable Bay Vineyards.

My fellow travellers all love active vacations as much as me and some have travelled with Backroads more than a dozen times.

TAKE THE BACKROADS

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SHIP REVIEW: PONANT LE LAPEROUSE

THE VERDICT

This was the twentieth Backroads trip for Fleury, travelling with her husband, Barry, who has done 10 of his own. The Florida-based couple says they like the consistency of the service, activities and unique itineraries you can count on with Backroads.

“They seem to have more and more options for people of all ages and abilities. I really enjoy the focus on being active,” Fleury says. “We always have a good experience.”

The Ponant cruise with Backroads is the ideal mix of challenging fun and exploration onshore and relaxation time onboard, and as we set sail from Auckland, we settle into the luxurious confines of the seven-deck Le Lapérouse.

The vessel was launched in mid-2018 as French line Ponant’s first expedition vessel and her French heritage is clear; the crew speak French and English, announcements are made in both languages and the passenger makeup is about a 50-50 split of native French and English speakers.

All members of my group had booked the trip because they were familiar with Backroads rather than Ponant, and this is a first cruise experience for most.

They are impressed with the service, comfort and style of the intimate ship. They also really like that drinks are included in the fare, and the wine flows freely for hours after we return from our daily activities.

Captain Etienne Garcia was a friendly presence on Le Lapérouse, interacting with passengers and hosting a welcome reception with Champagne, as well as expertly manoeuvering the ship into Milford Sound to get us close to a waterfall and a pod of playful dolphins.

At our first call at Tauranga, we hop on bikes in the morning for a hilly and challenging ride through the 44

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Above: the writer (left) kayaking Lake McLaren, near Tauranga.

Below: Deluxe Suite onboard Le Lapérouse.

HIGHS: The diversity of activities through Backroads, including active excursions and visits to museums, vineyards, restaurants and breweries. Onboard, expert trip leaders organised enrichment talks, a New Zealand film screening and honey tasting.

LOWS: The Le Lapérouse experience came up a bit short of five-star. While the vessel is truly luxurious, drink and meal orders frequently went awry. Also, the much-hyped Blue Eye underwater lounge comes off as bit gimmicky.

BEST SUITED TO: Active travellers with a high disposable income who love their daily exercise but also want to experience food, culture and wines.

countryside at McLaren Falls Park. After a picnic lunch, we slide into kayaks to explore the nearby lake, a serene area reminiscent of a Jurassic Park setting.

This exciting day is our first true look at the diverse beauty of New Zealand, but there is so much more to see as we sail southward to visit the active volcano on White Island, bike along the coast and through the farms and orchards in the Hawke’s Bay region, hike a portion of the Queen Charlotte Track at Marlborough

SHIP REVIEW: PONANT LE LAPÉROUSE

This is our first look at the diverse beauty of New Zealand, but there is so much more to see.”

Sounds and kayak amid the sheer cliffs and waterfalls in Milford Sound.

Back on the ship, we feast on fresh fish and a daily menu of decadent French cuisine. I enjoy the New Zealand craft beers the crew picks up on day two to stock the ship for the week, while most of my fellow passengers seem to enjoy the famed New Zealand wines. I never saw an empty glass during the evenings, as bottles of local Sauvignon Blanc are drained at a furious pace.

The dance floor in the spacious lounge is regularly filled with couples and friends dancing along to the ship’s musical duet, especially after those bottles of Sauvignon Blanc.

One of the most attractive features onboard Le Lapérouse is a heated infinity pool at the back by the marina, from which the Zodiac tours and other adventures are launched each day.

Le Lapérouse also offers a spa and sauna on Deck 7, and many of my fellow multi-sport adventurers took advantage of the two sea days to book treatments and rejuvenate tired bodies.

The ship’s open decks offer ideal spaces to view the stunning scenery of the South Island and the fjords. Plus, all staterooms offer balconies, plush beds, mini bars and room service if you prefer some relaxing moments enjoying a meal and the views on your own. These accommodations prove quite

From top: enjoying the view from the onboard sauna; a group of friendly seals watch the ship cruise by.

opulent compared with what you might expect on an adventure expedition in New Zealand.

With one day of our journey remaining, the ship approaches Milford Sound. It is raining steadily, which means dozens of waterfalls are cascading at full force down the cliff faces, producing a wonderful natural symphony. Passengers crowd around the open decks to take photos of the dolphins, seals and keas (a bright alpine parrot), a continuation of the wildlife viewing we’d done all week.

In the late afternoon, the rain stops and the sun is peeking out. Taking advantage of the clear skies, we take to the waters of the majestic fjord, paddling blissfully as kayaking twosomes.

We’re tired when we head back to the ship, but we know we’ll soon be pampered by the crew serving us cocktails, beers, wines and a gourmet meal. Truly the greatest mix of adventure and luxury. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: PAUL GAUGUIN

THE PRICE of PARADISE A luxury cruise makes the most sense in French Polynesia, finds David Dickstein.

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SHIP REVIEW: PAUL GAUGUIN Floating bar at the private motu.

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FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Paul Gauguin Cruises VESSEL: Paul Gauguin STAR RATING: 3+ PASSENGER CAPACITY: 332 TOTAL CREW: 215 PASSENGER DECKS: 7 ENTERED SERVICE: 1998 TONNAGE: 19,200 FACILITIES: Restaurants, bars, theatre, spa/gym, watersports marina, casino.

BOOKINGS: See pgcruises.com.

atch the Travel Channel, talk to honeymooners, read what Nicole Kidman, Keith Urban, Justin Bieber, Eva Longoria and other rich-and-famous have to say in the celebrity magazines – they’ll all tell you French Polynesia is the quintessential romantic paradise.

And of course it is, when TV crews get comped, newlyweds pay with their cashed wedding cheques and A-listers never have to look at a price tag.

For the rest of us, including this travel writer who prefers paying his own way to remain objective, spending more than two grand a night for a five-star, bucket-list overwater bungalow, $55 at a quality restaurant for an entrée (repeat, entrée), $33 for a ham and cheese sandwich and $28 for a glass of unremarkable wine at a four-star hotel’s lobby bar is neither romantic nor paradise.

So, when French Polynesia is described as a lovers’ utopia, take it with a few grains of sea salt. That is, unless the salt comes from one of three exquisite dining rooms aboard Paul Gauguin, a Tahitian treat if there ever was one.

The 332-guest Paul Gauguin, which makes up the entire fleet of Seattlebased Paul Gauguin Cruises, has been designed specifically for the South Pacific; her 17-foot draft makes her ideal for French Polynesia’s shallow ports of call. But more importantly, Paul Gauguin Cruises’ all-inclusive nature brings some sanity to the insane cost of vacationing in this land of exquisite natural beauty, emerald

waters and dreamy sunsets. The cruise line doesn’t broadcast the moneysaving factor, no doubt because the parent company is also the largest luxury hotel operator in the region.

Don’t bite the hand that feeds you, after all, especially when those bites at breakfast time cost $70 at the sister InterContinental Tahiti Resort and Spa, the most popular pre-cruise hotel.

For those of us with French Polynesia on our bucket list – exotic Bora Bora, in particular – Paul Gauguin is nautical nirvana. Its plusses are compounded in a side-by-side comparison with a comparable tourism competitor, a Hawaiian cruise aboard NCL’s Pride of America.

Doubling the price of the cruise gets you five-star luxury over three-star standards (Pride of America is three star); a balcony over a window cabin; only 331 fellow passengers instead of 2,185; a 1:1.5 crew-to-guest ratio over 1:2.5; unlimited drinks (adulty ones, too) over just coffee, tea and water; and tips and specialty restaurants included instead of being assessed $20 per day per person for gratuities and charged $35 to $70 just to eat a decent dinner.

Stats aside, nearly every aspect of a recent seven-day Society Islands and Tahiti Iti sail was fabulous. And appropriately so, Paul Gauguin Cruises is a luxury-category cruise line, as opposed to mass market (like Carnival, NCL, Royal Caribbean) or premium (like Celebrity, Princess, Disney).

Luxury cruises tend to offer smaller ships, more interesting ports, better service, higher quality food and more inclusions. Check, check, check, check and check. Another plus: blatant cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: PAUL GAUGUIN

upselling seems to be taboo on Paul Gauguin Cruises – not a single sales pitch was heard all week.

All of Paul Gauguin’s seven-day itineraries sail from and to Papeete, Tahiti’s principal city, where all flights originate; wonderful Air Tahiti Nui serves a handful of Australian airports and offers one-stop flights to Tahiti via Auckland. The Society Islands and Tahiti Iti cruise includes must-sees Bora Bora and Moorea, and tacks on visits to the islands of Huahine, Taha’a and the port of Vairao on the southwest coast of Tahiti. Overnighting in Bora Bora and Papeete slows down the speed portdating aspect of an itinerary with no sea days. / Stern to Bow Wow Factor With so much going for Paul Gauguin, getting there really is half the fun. It starts with the people. Having sailed on dozens of previous cruises, this sea-legged traveller has interacted with his share of phony and lazy employees. Not here. Of the 217-member crew encountered, each was as genuine as the Tahitian pearls on display at the Robert Wan Pearl Museum in Papeete.

From affable Captain Toni Mirkovic down, every Paul Gauguin badge wearer is ready to serve. The entire crew act as hosts, but that role is officially taken by a troupe of Tahitian ambassadors and entertainers, Les Gauguins (men) and Les Gauguines (women). When they’re not leading interactive onboard activities involving Polynesian arts, crafts and music, they’re entertaining guests with traditional songs and dances.

Accommodation-wise, cabins on Paul Gauguin aren’t that different to those found on megaships with 10 times the number of passengers. One distinction is free rein of a mini fridge stocked daily with beer, sodas and waters – something verboten with beverage packages on other ships.

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Clockwise from top left: the onboard watersports marina; views from Fatu Hiva; parasailing in Moorea; sunset in Moorea; Les Gauguines and Gauguins performing.

Food-wise, like the paintings by its namesake, the dishes coming out of Paul Gauguin’s two specialty restaurants are masterful works of art. By day, La Veranda and Le Grill serve up sumptuous breakfasts and lunches, then at night transform into reservations-only, no-fee venues for gourmet dining inside or al fresco.

Michelin-starred Parisian chef Jean-Pierre Vigato helms La Veranda’s menu, his onboard protégés doing delicious justice to lobster lasagna, braised veal, heart of beef tenderloin with beef tartare, roast halibut and guilt-worthy desserts. Polynesian specialties grace the menu at the more casual poolside venue Le Grill. At L’Etoile, the ship’s main dining room, nightly selections may include moonfish caught in local waters and arguably the best beef Wellington on the high seas.

SHIP REVIEW: PAUL GAUGUIN

THE VERDICT HIGHS: Posh without pretentiousness, Paul Gauguin cruises offer a luxurious, more affordable alternative to resort-based island life in pricey French Polynesia. First-class service, cuisine and accommodation.

LOWS: With little to see and do, Tahiti Iti is a weak point. Late tenders back onboard might mean missing the one-off culinary demonstration featuring a huge moonfish.

BEST SUITED TO: Discerning travellers more comfortable in beachwear than formalwear. Cruisers accustomed to big production shows and full-service casinos must be content with low-key, indigenous entertainment and a limited gaming area.

For those of us with French Polynesia on our bucket list, Paul Gauguin is nautical nirvana.”

Let the megaships have their full-production shows and comedy clubs – entertainment aboard Paul Gauguin is charmingly modest and indigenous. Local acts are tendered in to share Polynesian culture through music and dance in the 314-seat Grand Salon. Also on the weekly program are performances by Les Gauguines and Les Gauguins, specialty acts, a crew talent show, enrichment lectures and itinerary-relevant movies ranging from the Polynesia-set animated Disney feature Moana to a documentary on Monsieur Gauguin, the Parisian artist who got his groove back while in self-imposed exile in the French colony.

short tender, free shuttles can take guests into town for shopping and people watching. One day is dedicated to a hosted barbeque on the cruise line’s motu, or private island. This section of Taha’a is palm tree-shaded paradise with loungers for everyone, open bars (one floating), a quality spread of various perfectly grilled meats, snorkeling and other aquatic fun in calm, sea cucumber-infested waters, all the while being serenaded by the beautiful and buff Gauguines and Gauguins.

If you want to spend on shore excursions and haven’t pre-booked, it’s easy to do at the desk on Deck 4 or on the interactive TV system in each cabin. In Huahine, choices include ATV, 4x4 and WaveRunner adventures, and the misleadingly named Huahine Nui Safari Expedition ($132). You’re driven to an archaeological site, ancient and restored fish traps, a spot where blue-eyed eels congregate, a vanilla farm and, by outrigger canoe, a black pearl farm, with a store, of course. It’s neither a safari nor an expedition. The Highlights of Tahiti Iti ($132) excursion takes vanloads to a lookout, a famous surf spot and a water garden that’s actually on the nui (large) side of Tahiti. Clearly, there aren’t enough highlights on the iti (small) side.

Two recommendations for Bora Bora and Moorea are the Day at the Beach ($200 and $181, respectively). Each has you spending six or seven hours at a gorgeous InterContinental beach resort, where poolside luxury and an included lunch await.

A pre-cruise pick is a half-day circle island tour of Tahiti. For around $70 a person, Marama Tours whisks guests in an air-conditioned van to a waterfall, a water garden (yes, the same), a fern grotto, a blowhole (when in season) and a couple of lookout points. What’s great about this tour is that by making a full circle around the largest side of the economic, cultural and political center of French Polynesia, one sees the extremes between posh and pauper as presented by a knowledgeable local. Being exposed to how the 30 per cent of impoverished Tahitians live and the country’s reliance on funding from Mother France is educational and humbling, and it makes one fully appreciate the next seven or so days aboard one of the world’s most luxurious ships.

/ Island Adventures Asterisks alongside Paul Gauguin Cruises’ all-inclusive claim exclude spa treatments, premium alcohol, organised scuba dives and shore excursions, but this is a rare cruise that doesn’t require additional spending to satisfy your sense of adventure. For the more shipshape, snorkeling gear, paddleboards, kayaks and other watersports equipment are supplied at the ship’s retractable marina in back. At most ports, after the cruisepassenger.com.au

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READER COMPETITION

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two tickets to Singapore* with Singapore Airlines.

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TAKE OFF

TAKE OFF Why Australian cruisers are choosing to fly.

+ Favourite destinations

+ Cabin crew secrets to make your journey a joy

Jewel Changi Airport

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TAKE OFF: INTRODUCTION

COME FLY WITH US...

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A

ustralia has held the global record for the highest numbers of cruisers per capita for several years now, and increasing numbers of us are venturing further afield to explore the world by sea. Last year, more than 300,000 of us took to the skies to cruise, up three per cent on 2017.

Europe and the Mediterranean remain firm favourites, thanks to the beauty of the destinations, the history and the sheer variety of cruises on offer, from sailing ships to high-tech superliners, and sedate rivers to azure ocean waters.

Asia now runs a close second, with 72,000 Aussies visiting the region last year to cruise. Alaska’s rugged snow-filled adventures attracted 37,000, the Northern Lights and fjords of Northern Europe, 35,000 and the Caribbean, 28,000.

What’s the allure? The wonder of taking a cruise to explore overseas is that you can boldly venture into new lands and foreign cultures knowing there is always the safety of your crew and cabin awaiting your return. The exotic sights of Cambodia, Myanmar, India and Egypt don’t seem quite so daunting when you know your evening cocktail is just a gangplank away.

From the wild landscapes of Alaska or the Arctic to the luxurious coasts of Santorini, you’ll travel thousands of miles and meet many cultures, yet unpack only once.

TAKE OFF: INTRODUCTION

A fly-cruise holiday is also an ideal way to try the latest ship offerings, with their continuously evolving offerings including water slides, technology, rides, food, shore excursions and show spectaculars. Some 18 exciting new vessels will be launched this year for both river and sea around the world.

Singapore Airlines has long been a favourite for these great journeys. It is the preferred airline of many leading cruise lines, and the stopover in Singapore to break the journey is almost part of the holiday ritual.

“Over the past year and a half we’ve seen increasing interest in the fly/cruise market, particularly for those cruising from Australia to Singapore and then flying home. We have worked closely with our partners to enhance the range of fare offerings available to this market, which will provide customers even greater value for money in this growing sector,” said Chinyu Tan, Singapore Airlines Australia sales and marketing manager.

“Singapore itself is growing as a cruise market, with Asia more broadly being the largest growth market for cruising Australians outside of the Pacific. Singapore Airlines is therefore perfectly positioned to provide customers with an industryleading flight experience that will start or end their cruising holiday in comfort.”

“Singapore Airlines is perfectly positioned to provide customers with an industry-leading flight experience that will start or end their cruising holiday in comfort.”

Indeed, the recently opened Jewel Changi Airport takes Singapore’s appeal to cruise passengers to a new level.

The airport is the first in the world to roll out the red carpet for cruisers so enthusiastically, with a dedicated lounge where guests can rest, shower and prepare for onward journeys, and a luggage service that works from lounge to ship, and from ship to plane.

There are also restaurants, bars and shops aplenty, but the central feature of Jewel is the HSBC Rain Vortex, a four-storey waterfall which displays a colourful laser show. It’s surrounded by the Shiseido Forest Valley, a green space that’s perfect for stretching your legs and getting fresh air in between flights.

It’s more than a stopover - it’s a destination in itself.

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TAKE OFF: EUROPE

Europe Rich history, fabulous culture and excellent food attracts travellers from all around the world to Europe. From bustling London to the cobblestone streets of Barcelona, Europe’s cities are the perfect gateway to your next cruise holiday. No wonder more than 109,000 Australians headed to Europe in 2018 to sail around the Mediterranean, Northern Europe and the Baltic – there is so much choice in itineraries and lines for river, ocean, luxury and contemporary cruisers, with more options added every day. And with increasing air routes between here and Europe, it is more convenient than ever for Australians to fly to Europe for their cruise holiday.

/ LONDON London is all contradictions: historical yet future facing, quintessentially English and an international melting pot. The historic Tower of London is a stone’s throw from the gleaming skyscrapers of Canary Wharf.

Designer suits are sold on Savile Row, while vintage pieces are the main trade in Camden. Food from every corner of the globe is served in restaurants beside pubs selling pies and pints.

Lines that sail: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, P&O UK, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises.

Itineraries: The port of Southampton is a two-hour train ride from London. From here, take a world cruise; a sailing around the Mediterranean; a cruise to the Baltic, Norway and Russia; or the transatlantic crossing to New York.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to London 28 times a week connecting through Singapore.

/ PARIS On a Seine cruise, many lines depart at sunset, so guests get 58

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the breathtaking experience of sailing past the illuminated Eiffel Tower at dusk. Paris is a city of constant discovery: around every corner are narrow cobbled streets and epic monuments, generations-old couture houses and street fashion, and fine French food and wine. And, of course, romance is everywhere in the city of love.

Lines that sail: Ocean: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, P&O UK, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises. River: APT, Avalon Waterways, Riviera Travel, Scenic, Viking River Cruises, Uniworld.

Itineraries: Paris is a major river cruise hub with itineraries sailing most European rivers, but ocean cruises to Northern Europe or the Mediterranean depart from Le

Havre, three hours’ train ride from the city.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Paris seven times a week through Singapore.

/ BARCELONA Bohemian is the best way to describe Barcelona; the locals are fiercely proud of their Catalan culture and their football team and you’ll hear endless talk of

both, This is the home of the modernist architect Antoni Gaudi, and his legacy is everywhere in this colourful, vibrant city. In the evenings, stop at one of the many tiny bars for a meal of tapas and local vino tinto.

Lines that sail: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, P&O UK, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises.

Itineraries: Barcelona is the starting point for many Mediterranean cruises; the Barcelona to Rome route is perfect for a first cruise, but for

TAKE OFF: EUROPE

FUN FACT On 2 June 1971, Singapore Airlines (then known as MalaysiaSingapore Airlines, or MSA) took off for London on their first transcontinental flight. The flight travelled via Bombay (Mumbai), Bahrain and Rome. Singapore Airlines later became the first to fly non-stop between London and Singapore in 1984. Non-stop flights from Singapore to London were introduced in 1989.

CABIN CREW HACKS

something new, sail to Alicante, Valencia, Malaga, Gibraltar and Lisboa.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Barcelona five times a week through Singapore.

/ AMSTERDAM Amsterdam’s narrow, colourful canalside houses are the most distinctive feature of this city. The best way to discover Amsterdam is by bike; pedal your rented wheels around areas like Jordaan, full of antique shops and courtyard cafes, and the Museum District, where you’ll find famous works of art. During the warmer months, you’ll find locals and tourists drinking beer beside the canal or enjoying the tulips that bloom around the city.

Lines that sail: Ocean: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises, P&O UK, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises. River: APT, Avalon Waterways, Riviera Travel, Scenic, Viking River Cruises, Uniworld.

Itineraries: The Amsterdam to Basel river route through the picturesque heartland of Europe is the top itinerary for first-time cruisers. Ocean voyages from Amsterdam take guests to Northern Europe.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Amsterdam seven times a week through Singapore.

Clockwise from left: Tower Bridge, London; pavement bistro, Paris; terrace houses, Amsterdam.

CHIEF STEWARD WONG CHEK LENG As an Air Sommelier, London remains one of my favourite places to visit for exciting food and wine. Bangers and mash are out, and in its place is a new wave of British chefs pushing culinary boundaries.

The playful menu at Dinner

by Heston Blumenthal comes with a side of cheerful service, while Tredwells by Marcus Wareing provides comfort food in a relaxed setting. Two of my favourite wine merchants are Lea & Sandeman and Berry Bros. & Rudd, but an undiscovered secret is English sparkling wine, a highquality tipple made using the same method and grapes as Champagne.

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TAKE OFF: ASIA

Asia Hot sticky nights, the yelling of hawkers and the aromas of fried noodles, exotic fruits and incense are all part of the charm of Asia. Between snorkeling and swimming in the Andaman Sea, exploring the colonial history of Penang or dining at one of Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred restaurants, there is so much diversity in Asia. The region is fast becoming a cruise powerhouse, with major hubs like Singapore boasting an array of homeported ships and new itineraries. The Lion City is also home to Changi Airport, one of the most popular long-haul stopovers In the world. The recent opening of the Jewel of Changi, with new restaurants, a 40-foot waterfall and gardens, will make stopovers and fly-cruise transfers even more appealing.

/ SINGAPORE This city state is ideally placed to be a key cruising hub so it’s no surprise there are two cruise terminals. Claims to fame include the National Gallery, with the biggest collection of Southeast Asian art in the world; Raffles Hotel, home of the Singapore Sling; and the first-ever Michelinstarred hawker stall, Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle.

Lines that sail: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises.

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Asia, but Singapore is also a major fly-cruise hub for longer trips around Asia or to Europe.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Singapore 137 times a week from Australia.

/ BANGKOK Bustling Bangkok has long been popular with travellers thanks to its frenetic energy, myriad shopping options and abundance of street food. The two large international airports make the Thai capital a popular starting point for Asian cruises, and it also offers easy access to islands and beaches in the rest of the country.

Lines that sail: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises.

Itineraries: Sailings from Bangkok include calls to domestic ports, and around Asia.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Bangkok 42 times a week through Singapore.

/ HONG KONG The island of Hong Kong is a fascinating blend of Chinese and English cultures, a major global financial hub with towering

skyscrapers, maze-like streets, endless markets and a bustling harbour. One of the best things about Hong Kong is its vibrant food scene; from a throng of high-end restaurants to street vendors selling stinky tofu, curried fish balls and rice cakes.

Lines that sail: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises.

Itineraries: From Hong Kong, lines most often either head north towards China, or west to Vietnam. Hong Kong is another major hub for world cruises.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Hong Kong 47 times a week through Singapore.

/ HO CHI MINH CITY Vietnam’s capital best shows its chequered French and Asian influence in the food, with fresh pork baguettes and beef noodle soup served in equal quantities on the streets. By day, visit Independence Palace, Notre Dame Cathedral and the War Remnants Museum, and by night, seat yourself at a streetside bia stall or in a swanky rooftop bar.

Lines that sail: Ocean: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Ponant,

TAKE OFF: ASIA

FUN FACT In 1947, when Singapore Airlines first began operating as Malayan Airways, services ran from Singapore to Kuala Lumpur, Ipoh and Penang with three flights per week. They now operate more that 900 flights a week to more than 60 destinations across Asia. Singapore Airlines was the first airline to operate the Airbus A380, with the initial service leaving Singapore for Sydney on 25 October 2007.

CABIN CREW HACKS

Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises. River: APT, Avalon Waterways, Scenic, Viking River Cruises, Uniworld.

Itineraries: HCMC is a departure point for ocean and river cruises, most often domestic or down the Mekong Delta to Cambodia.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Ho Chi Minh City 29 times a week through Singapore.

/ TOKYO This city juxtaposes past and present like nowhere else in the world. Women in kimono stroll the neon-lit streets of Shinjuku, traditional food is served by robots, and shrines are as much an attraction as the high-rise

shopping district of Ginza. This megalopolis was one of the most-visited cities by Australians in 2018 and it has a booming cruise industry.

Lines that sail: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises.

Itineraries: From Yokohama, 40 minutes from Tokyo, ships sail around Japan or to South Korea, with a few longer Asian itineraries, and even Alaska or Russia.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Tokyo 42 times a week through Singapore.

From left: Sanphet Prasat Palace, Bangkok; maiko in Tokyo; dim sum, Hong Kong.

LEADING STEWARD SONIA FERIEL Each time I’m rostered for a Tokyo flight, I’m thrilled at the thought of sampling the city’s incredible cuisine. My go-to sushi place is the standing sushi bar, or Uogashi-Nihon Ichi.

There are numerous outlets in Tokyo, mainly near major rail stations. It’s fast, fresh and extremely affordable! If you’re a coffee lover like me, and are in the Ginza area, drop by Cafe de L’Ambre. It only serves coffee, so you know it makes pretty awesome brews. It prides itself in being one of the most legendary cafes in Tokyo.

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TAKE OFF: NORTH AMERICA

North America North America’s two coasts are worlds apart. The west coast is home to the damp lushness of the Pacific Northwest, wine country, rugged coasts and Hollywood. From the wild west coast, cruise lines sail to destinations like Alaska, Hawaii and the Pacific Islands. Fly six hours cross country and you’ll find yourself in New York, from where you can cruise to New England and Nova Scotia in the north, and Miami, Central America and the Caribbean to the south. The world’s most iconic cruise, the transatlantic crossing, departs from here, sailing past the Statue of Liberty bound for Southampton.

/ SEATTLE From the top of the Space Needle in the city centre, visitors can see the edges of the city meet lush green forests and mountain tops, and in the other direction, a misty harbour. Seattle is a nature-lovers paradise, with thousands of acres of parklands for hiking, biking and camping, but it is also one of the coolest cities in the USA with great coffee and great food.

Lines that sail: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises.

Itineraries: Seattle is a major cruise hub, and a popular embarkation point for cruises to

Alaska, one of the most popular cruise destinations, renowned for its epic landscapes, bountiful wildlife and unique culture.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Seattle code share with Alaskan Airlines.

/ SAN FRANCISCO The cultural and commercial centre of Northern California is a colourful city perched on a beautiful harbour. This is one of the most culturally diverse cities in the world, with a thriving gay and lesbian scene and the largest Chinatown outside Asia. Don’t miss the famous clam chowder, best enjoyed in a sourdough bread bowl at Fisherman’s Wharf.

Walk or cycle across the iconic Golden Gate Bridge, or take a drive down amusingly crooked Lombard Street.

Lines that sail: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise

& Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises.

Itineraries: Like Seattle, San Francisco is a departure point for Alaska, but other itineraries include to Hawaii, Oregon or Santa Barbara. Longer itineraries sail toward the South Pacific.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Seattle 17 times a week through Singapore.

/ LOS ANGELES The City of Angels, known equally for its glitzy celebrity culture and beachside lifestyle, is 62

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self-consciously cool and inconveniently sprawling.

Celebrity spotters are in for a treat here, while adventure seekers have their pick of theme parks, and beach babes can see and be seen at Venice Beach or Malibu. Art and culture lovers can check out the Getty Center, while shoppers will enjoy Rodeo Drive.

Lines that sail: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Cruise & Maritime Voyages, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises.

Itineraries: Sailings from Los Angeles will take you to the

TAKE OFF: NORTH AMERICA

FUN FACT On 28 March 1989, Singapore Airlines became the first commercial airline to operate a Boeing 747-400 across the Pacific. Flight SQ888 from San Francisco to Singapore via Hong Kong took 18 hours. On 11 October 2018, the airline again made history when it introduced the world’s longest commercial flight with its non-stop Singapore-New York service on the Airbus A350-900ULR (Ultra Long Range).

CABIN CREW HACKS

warm waters of Hawaii, the dramatic scenery of Alaska and the white sands of Mexico.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to Los Angeles 17 times a week through Singapore.

/ NEW YORK First-time visitors can’t miss the view from the top of the Rockerfeller Centre, a ferry past the Statue of Liberty, a visit to One World Trade Center or a show on Broadway. But returning visitors can broaden their horizons; uptown in Harlem is the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s sister gallery, the Met Cloisters, once home to Franciscan monks; downtown, visitors can roam Bleeker Street for high end shopping and dining. Over the

Brooklyn Bridge, Williamsburg offers great coffee and cocktails in painfully trendy joints.

Lines that sail: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Viking Ocean Cruises.

Itineraries: One of the world’s most famous cruises is Cunard’s transatlantic crossing from New York to Southampton. Ships also go to destinations like Nova Scotia, Florida and Central America.

Flights: Singapore Airlines flies to New York 14 times a week through Singapore.

From left: Space Needle and Mt Rainier, Seattle; Times Square, New York; Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco.

STEWARD BRITTANY CHAI My favourite destination is San Francisco. A cycle from Fisherman’s Wharf to the Golden Gate Bridge is definitely a must-do! You can also catch a ferry from Fisherman’s Wharf to Alcatraz prison. For something more laid back, just chill by the wharf. There’s plenty of good food, such as Mama’s Cafe for a hearty breakfast, the Halal Guys for their classic chicken over rice, clam chowder at Fisherman’s Wharf and cheesecake at the Cheesecake Factory on 5th Avenue, as well as the quaint and minimalist Blue Bottle for amazing coffee. For shopping, there’s Westfield, Sephora and the San Francisco Premium Outlet Malls.

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TAKE OFF: LONG HAUL

How to love a long haul flight Australians are intrepid travellers, and we are used to flying long distances to see the world. Singapore is one of our closest neighbours, but the journey is still at least seven hours from Sydney. And for trips to Europe or the Americas, travel time can be a whole day or more. Here are some handy, expert-approved tricks and tips that will ensure an easier flight, so you arrive feeling well rested and avoid the dreaded jet lag.

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/ SLEEP Sleeping upright is not ideal for optimal rest. Combined with the background hum of the plane, crying children and rattling trollies, passengers often find it difficult to get some shut eye. Ashley Tan, a Singapore Airlines flight attendant has a few tips to improve your sleep.

“Bringing a neck pillow can be useful for sleep and comfort, especially for long-haul flights. We also provide customers with ear plugs and eye shades on request,” she says.

“Doing simple stretches also helps me relax. Our in-flight entertainment system KrisWorld offers a selection of soothing music that can help me sleep.”

Singapore Airlines recently started operating a direct flight from Singapore to New York’s Newark, one of the longest journeys in the world at 18 hours and 45 minutes.

Lucky the new Boeing 787 Dreamliner is also more conducive to sleep than other models. One reason is that the cabin is more humid; the system purifies and cleans the recycled air without sucking the moisture out of it, which stops eyes and throats drying out. This model also keeps the interior air pressure about 2000 feet lower than a 777 or Airbus 340, which makes breathing easier, so you can relax into sleep.

TAKE OFF: LONG HAUL / WELLNESS To beat jet lag, it’s essential to eat the right foods, get some sleep and take some time to stretch your body and move around.

Singapore Airlines have partnered with leading wellness brand Canyon Ranch to create onboard stretches and exercises.

“On our A350-900ULR non-stop services between Singapore and Los Angeles and San Francisco, our partnership with Canyon Ranch also focuses on in-flight wellness, with guided stretching exercises available on our in-flight entertainment system, sleep strategies to help customers improve the duration and quality of their rest in-flight, and specific light settings in the cabin to provide better ambience for rest and relaxation,” said Ms Tan. Ms Tan also has tips for making sure that children have an enjoyable journey. “I engage and play with kids when they are awake, and offer them a glass of milk before they sleep.

We also offer a range of interactive options such as movies, games and learning in our in-flight entertainment system to keep them occupied.” That’s good for all our wellness.

The Canyon Ranch chicken and salad meal.

FLIGHT CLASSES Premium Economy The introduction of premium economy has been a roaring success – perfect for those who want better than economy but don’t want to pay for business.

The seats are larger, with a 20-centimetre recline and a seat pitch of 97 centimetres, and amenities like noise-cancelling headphones, a 13.3-inch HD screen, two USB ports, a cocktail table and extra stowage space make the journey more comfortable. Premium Economy customers are also able to pre-select their main meal from the Book the Cook menu, which offers an additional choice of delicious meals.

Business Class The new Business Class cabin on SIA’s A380 is more luxurious than ever. The seat has wings for better back support and reclines directly into a sun-deck position to watch movies on the 18-inch HD monitor, or into full-flat bed for sleep. A larger back shell creates a cocoon-like feel for more privacy, and the divider between the two centre seats can be fully lowered to form a double bed – ideal for passengers travelling together. Passengers are also treated to three course meals which include Japanese, Korean, Indian and Chinese delicacies.

/ FOOD Research by the University of Chicago has revealed that eating the right food can make people up to 16 times less likely to suffer from jet lag. The science behind these findings is that meals act as time cues for your body, so adjusting the amount and type of food you can eat can make a big difference.

Singapore Airlines’ partnership with US-based Canyon Ranch has created nutritious menus for long haul flights between Singapore and the USA in all classes.

“Many customers are now paying more attention to their diet and choice of meals even when they travel and an increasing number are opting for healthier choices. SIA has observed this trend and is offering more dishes aimed at the customer’s wellness,” said Ms Tan. “On our non-stop flights between Singapore and the United States, we offer customers dishes that have been specially-created by Canyon Ranch, that are aimed at nourishing and rejuvenating customers.

“For example, in the braised short rib, turmeric has been used as one of the ingredients and it is a reliable antiinflammatory and antioxidant. Fennel aids digestion and lentils are a terrific source of iron and potassium.”

SIA also is working with the health brand Como Shambhala to create another new wellness menu of food and drinks, which will be available in all cabin categories on flights departing Singapore later this year. singaporeair.com

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HANOI IS ONE OF THE 25 TOP TRAVEL DESTINATIONS IN THE WORLD OF 2018*?

THE WORLD IS CHANGING. ARE YOU? Recognised by TripAdvisor, Hanoi never ceases to unveil its timeless beauty and charms to the world. Explore Vietnam with Vietnam Airlines’ direct flights to discover the heart of the country. (*) Voted by TripAdvisor

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CruisePlus Experiences, food and wellness on your travels

INSIDE

Luxury 69

Food 84

Hotel 88

Ports 92

Costa Rica 78

Wellness 86

Style 90

Last Word 94

72 86

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FRANCE: THE SCENIC ROUTE Culinary magic, stunning landscapes, the chance to recharge your body and mind. Spoil yourself as you embrace the history and romance of France. This is the place for re-awakening your sense of adventure. With more than 30 years’ experience handcrafting cruise itineraries, Scenic has set luxurious standards for river cruising in France.

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eaving their way like a thread across the tapestry of France, the all-inclusive Scenic Space-Ships feature innovative design excellence, including Scenic Sun Lounges, Butler service for all, up to five dining choices and all the luxuries you’d expect from a 5-star travel experience.

Onshore, inspiring and immersive included Scenic Freechoice activities and exclusive Scenic Enrich experiences await. Sample truffles, wines, cheese and chocolate; or take in the history, art and culture of each region.

Scenic Culinaire

Clockwise from top: Scenic Freechoice - Senanque Abbey; Scenic Sapphire near Pope’s Palace, Avignon; exclusive Salt Therapy lounges; On Board Dining; Scenic Culinaire

Beauty around every river bend…

Exclusive to Scenic, our France river cruise ships in Bordeaux and the South of France feature an on board cooking school - Scenic Culinaire, where guests are able to participate in cooking demonstrations and ‘shop with a chef’ in the local markets.

France is the epicentre of cuisine and gastronomy, and Scenic Culinaire allows our guests to experience this first-hand.

River cruising and wellbeing naturally go together – the peaceful flow of the rivers are the perfect backdrop to rejuvenate your mind, body and soul.

The Scenic

Difference

Only the finest, most luxurious experiences, both on board and onshore – and they’re all included.

Our state of the art gym offers daily scheduled activities tailored to various fitness levels.

In Bordeaux and the South of France, experience the healing benefits of our exclusive Salt Therapy Lounges or indulge in calming massage.

Indulgent or invigorating, it’s all part of the Scenic Difference.

N

o two journeys on France’s waterways are the same, with each possessing its own special charm. Wherever you go, the country’s reverence for art, history and gastronomy is unmistakable.

THE SEINE: From Paris to Honfleur and the English Channel, the Scenic Gem takes guests to the inspired sites of northern France. See why Impressionist painters such as Monet immortalised this region.

THE SAÔNE AND RHÔNE: Treat yourself to the majestic ambiance of the south of France on board Scenic Sapphire, exploring historic villages, lush vineyards and the essence of fairy tales.

THE DORDOGNE AND GARONNE: Immerse yourself in the spectacular Bordeaux countryside, passing through alluring culinary centres and wine-growing châteaux.

For a luxury river cruise experience in France, visit scenic.com.au/france Call 138 128 or visit your local scenic agent

CRUISE PLUS: LUXURY

L U X U R Y

KEEPING IT SUITE Australians are now some of the biggest consumers of luxury cruise travel. Peter Lynch reports.

a

ustralians, take a bow. You are now among the most luxurious travellers in the world. Forget throwing a shrimp on the barbie – today it’s more likely to be a lobster tail.

According to research conducted for leading global luxury travel network Virtuoso, Australians take 25 per cent more luxury holidays than the average international traveller, and are the second-highest consumers of business class flights per capita.

We spend the most time on holiday, taking more international trips (1.9 vs. a global average 1.5) with the lowest level of budget travel (14 percent vs. 35 percent), the highest number of leisure nights (18.9 vs. an average 14.4), and an average spend of $13,000 per trip.

And cruise is no exception, with 63 per cent of Australians’ cruises lasting two weeks or longer, compared to the global average of 40 per cent.

This explains why more luxury cruise brands are sending ships to our shores, and opening local offices to handle the growing demand. For more details on luxury cruise, sign up for our newsletter at cruisepassenger.com.au/luxury.

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CRUISE PLUS: LUXURY TRENDS

BACK TO THE FUTURE

2

What’s hot in luxury cruising? Small ships, personal, service and responsible travel are among the highlights, according to Peter Lynch.

1 / Tread lightly Most lines realise guests want to travel responsibly, so low emissions, no plastic and excursions that give back to local people are essential.

Small-ship line SeaDream Yacht Club’s SeaDream Innovation, due to launch 2021, has features to reduce her environmental impact including waste-heat energy converters, shore power and a four-MWh battery that lets her sail silently and emission free for up to three hours. Combined with her diesel engines, this will let Innovation visit sensitive areas such as the Norwegian fjords.

Hurtigruten has also developed a hybrid vessel; Roald Amundsen is the world’s first Ice-class hybrid-power expedition ship, due to launch this month. The 530-passenger vessel can sail with electric propulsion for 15 to 30 minutes, which will cut emissions by 20 per cent. The line is also reengineering existing ships to run on a combination of large battery packs, liquefied natural gas (LNG) and liquefied bio gas made from organic waste like dead fish. Yes, you read that right.

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/ Smaller is better Suites are bigger and guests fewer in the trend towards smaller luxury vessels.

Scenic’s discovery yacht Scenic Eclipse is scheduled to launch in August with 228 guests in 114 suites that start at 345 square feet and go up to 2,500 square feet. But it’s the tech garnering the most interest; the huge stabilisers, submarines and helicopters. Scenic has so much faith in the model, another is scheduled for 2020.

Crystal is also hard at work. On the five-deck, 62-passenger Crystal Esprit, launched 2015, entry-level suites are 223 square feet, and you’ll find legendary Crystal service, a two-man submarine and a water-sports marina. Crystal Endeavor is due in 2020 with 100 suites, two seven-man submarines and Polar-class capabilities.

Next year also sees the much-anticipated Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection with 298 guests across 149 suites, including two penthouses. While they won’t head for the Arctic, the Ritz-Carlton spa and three-Michelin starred Aqua restaurant will make up for it.

Ponant is ahead of the curve. Four new Explorer-class expedition ships that accommodate 184 passengers are either already sailing or on the way. Le Lapérouse has already completed her first season in Australia, and will be back next year.

CRUISE PLUS: LUXURY TRENDS

/ Everything old is new again Another trend that has increased in pace this year is updating or rebuilding existing ships. After all, ships can last up to 30 years, but tastes change every minute.

Oceania Cruises is spending $145 million on its OceaniaNEXT fleet upgrade of four of its 684-guest ships – Regatta, Insignia, Sirena, and Nautica – to feature new dining experiences and a dramatic upgrade of amenities.

Crystal has already refurbished Symphony and Serenity, reconstructing interiors and lowering guest ratios to make bigger suites, while Regent Seven Seas has spent $182 million on re-imagining Voyager, Navigator and Mariner with its trademark flamboyant new fixtures, restaurant interiors and artworks.

Silversea is also working to upgrade its fleet, with Silver Spirit dramatically “stretched” last year by slicing it in half and adding another section to create new dining venues and an enlarged pool deck.

3 5 / Family first – or last?

4 / Food, glorious food Once, it was quantity. Now, it’s quality, variety and experience that dominate food on luxury ships.

Almost every line has embraced the move to healthier eating, and most offer vegetarian or vegan alternatives on their menus. Oceania – which claims “the finest cuisine at sea” – has partnered with chef Christophe Berg to compile a menu of 200 healthy and plant-based dishes.

Elsewhere, the move to use more locally produced products, ensure a greater knowledge of the provenance of food and a greater emphasis on avoiding waste is sweeping fleets. And Michelin stars are appearing on ships more than ever, on lines including Seabourn and Ritz-Carlton.

Eating is now more experiential and relaxed, with some, like the newer Silversea ships, abandoning the dining room for smaller, boutique food outlets.

According to the 2019 Virtuoso Luxe Report, multigenerational travel is this year’s top vacation trend in Australia, with grandparents purchasing cabins for their kids and grandkids to show them parts of the world they probably couldn’t afford to visit otherwise.

Also according to Virtuoso, kids now have a voice in where families go, so it’s canny that operators like Disney Cruise Lines have managed to combine luxury, adult activities and themes that kids love.

At the other end of the spectrum, other high-end lines – Viking Cruise lines, for instance – have had incredible success by promising their ships will be adults only. For many in the luxury space, that’s the only way to go.

But cruise lines catering for families remain popular, and on luxury vessels, grandpa’s increased spending power is ensuring that family suites and activities have a growing place.

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CRUISE PLUS: LUXURY SHORE EXCURSIONS

LUXURY ON LAND

From Ferraris to submarines, are these the most decadent shore excursions?

Vanessa Wu explores.

I

ndulgent experiences on luxury cruise lines go beyond white-glove service in your cabin and Michelin stars in restaurants. The luxury extends to your shore excursions where you’re looking for two things: exclusivity and authenticity.

Maybe it’s a visit to a castle where the Count, whose family has lived here for generations, leads a private tour while his butler serves drinks. Or a ride in a submarine to the bottom of the sea. It might just be a trip to a popular destination – but at night. It’s all about unforgettable moments. Here is our pick of the best. / REGENT SEVEN SEAS Horse Riding in the Mexican Countryside At the port of Puerto Vallarta, guests can discover the Mexican countryside from a unique vantage point of 72

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a horse’s back. There is something romantic about having the wind in your hair as you explore the area with this majestic, and well-trained, creature.

Setting off from the Hacienda, ride along the Mascota River, passing through quaint villages on a picturesque track. Stop at the mid-way point to relax and take in the vastness of the winding river canyon. If conditions permit, you may be able to enjoy a swim on horseback or take a dip at the hot springs, so wear a swimsuit under your riding clothes.

Saying farewell to your horse when you head back to the Hacienda will be difficult, but perhaps a complimentary drink and a tour of the tequila distillery will ease the pain. / CRYSTAL BOUTIQUE ADVENTURES Ferrari Road Trip Italy is known for its historic towns, inspiring scenery and exotic cars. Experience all three as you take the wheel of a Ferrari and drive through the Tuscan countryside.

CRUISE PLUS: LUXURY SHORE EXCURSIONS Learn the finer points of your Ferrari Portofino or 488 Spider’s controls, before you rev your engine and set off, following a lead car driven by your tour director.

An object of desire around the world, this iconic, horse-emblazoned automobile can be given its head here on its home range, galloping around corners and charging the straights of Italy’s picturesque roadways.

Stop for lunch in the walled village of San Gimignano, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and see how it dominates Elsa Valley with its 13 medieval towers.

After your meal, slide back into the driver’s seat and ease your car through the sinuous hills of Chianti to

Travel to Wadi Rum, the protected wilderness in the heart of the desert.” admire landscapes carpeted with vineyards and dotted with old castles. Your final stop will be in Volterra, an ancient mountaintop town with well-preserved medieval ramparts and winding, cobbled lanes. You’ll find time whips by far too fast on this excursion.

Clockwise from left: your Italian stallion; El Khazneh at Petra; Alhambra at dusk.

/ PONANT Private tour of Alhambra by night This excursion, in the port of Malaga, offers a nighttime tour of the Alhambra palace and fortress complex in the city of Granada, a symbol of the splendour of the Nasrid dynasty, the last Muslims to rule Spain.

Enjoy an early tapas dinner in the Albayzin quarter, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, before entering the Alhambra for an exclusive visit by night.

Visit the Palacio de Generalife, the small summer palace with its attractive gardens, avenue of stately cypress trees and tinkling fountains.

Some of the finest examples of Islamic Art can be found in the Nasrid Palace; marvel at the delicate marble columns, graceful arcades and fine craftsmanship of a palace that was designed as the Sultans’ “paradise on Earth”. The Hall of the Ambassadors and the Court of the Lions are centrepieces of the palace, but out the windows you’ll see the gypsy quarters of Sacromonte on the hills above Granada.

/ SILVERSEA Helicopter Adventure & The Isle of Capri Take off from Sorrento for a flight-seeing tour along the Amalfi Coast. Enjoy the Italian coastline from the skies, with a bird’s-eye view of steep cliffs, small beaches, pastel-coloured fishing villages and grand villas. The flight continues over the archaeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum, as well as Mt Vesuvius, the stillactive volcano that devastated the two towns in 79AD. Land in Capri and resume your adventure in a rowboat that will take you to the heart of the famous Blue Grotto.

Immerse yourself in the blue glowing embrace of the cavern before heading back to land for a three-course lunch at the five-star Grand Hotel Quisisana.

After lunch, take a leisurely stroll in the Augustus Gardens overlooking Capri before being whisked back to your ship in a jetfoil. / OCEANIA CRUISES Magnificent Petra & Wadi Rum This full-day excursion lets you visit Petra, the ancient Nabataean caravan city situated between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea, and Wadi Rum, a natural paradise.

Take a scenic drive to Petra, an important crossroad between Arabia, Egypt and Syria-Phoenicia through which camel caravans passed, loaded with spices, textiles and incense. Petra was a vital hub for global commerce, and the city flourished until a massive earthquake in 363AD left it in ruins.

Enter Petra through one of nature’s grandest entrance hallways, a tall, narrow gorge called the Siq, formed from a deep split in the sandstone. Through the Siq, you’ll see Petra’s most famous ruin; El Khazneh, the Treasury, hewn directly from the red sandstone cliff, and immense tombs, facades and doorways cut in the steep walls.

After lunch, travel to Wadi Rum, the protected wilderness in southern Jordan. In the heart of the desert, explore dramatic towering cliffs of weathered stone, ancient riverbeds and mauve stretches of sand.

Complete your tour with a visit to a Bedouin camp where a sumptuous buffet dinner awaits under the cool shade of Bedouin tents. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: LUXURY EXPEDITIONS

SILVERSEA’S EPIC WORLD CRUISE Since being acquired by Royal Caribbean, Silversea has become one of the most active cruise lines, with new ships, itineraries and food offerings. The most exciting is the Silversea World Expedition voyage, the first of its kind for the line. The 167-day voyage aboard Silver Cloud departs January 2021 from in Ushuaia, Chile and ends in Tromsø, Norway, calling at 107 destinations in 30 must-visit countries including six new ports of call for Silversea; Naxos, Folegandros, Nafpaktos, Ksamil, Bejaïa and Fort William. This journey will explore some of the most remote destinations in the world, as well as popular spots in the Pacific Islands, India, Sri Lanka, Egypt, Greece, Albania, Spain and many more. The journey ends with sightings of puffins roosting along the Hornbjarg Cliffs in Iceland and polar bears in the Svalbard Northern Region. The two-bedroom Owner’s Suite will fetch $1.45 million for the entire World Cruise.

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SEABOURN’S FORM & FUNCTION Seabourn fans have been given their first glimpse of the line’s new ultra-luxury expedition ships. The man behind the yacht-inspired interiors on Seabourn Encore and Seabourn Ovation, Adam D. Tihany, has also designed the two upcoming ships, one named Seabourn Venture and the other yet to be named. Mr Tihany created the spaces with the romanticism of early explorers and the thrill of discovery in mind. He’s used tactile and elemental materials to capture the ruggedness of expedition travel while maintaining a sense of luxury and comfort. To enhance the sense of exploration, the enrichment program will be hosted by a team of 26 world-class wilderness experts, scientists, historians and naturalists.

discover

JAPAN & BEYOND When wanderlust comes calling, Viking answers. Experience the fascinating histories and colourful cultures of Japan, Russia, China, Canada and more with Viking’s enriching ocean cruise itineraries. What are you waiting for?

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Busan

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Overnight in Port

NORT H PAC IFIC PA S S A G E

FAR EASTER N H O R I ZO NS

T OKYO – VA N C O UV ER or v ic e v ersa 2 3 D AYS | 1 1 G UIDED TOURS | 4 COUNTRIES

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$11,595pp

in Veranda stateroom

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$9,495pp

i n Veran d a s tatero o m

ENJOY, IT'S ALL INCLUDED YOUR OW N PRIVATE VER ANDA SHORE E XCUR SIONS

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8 DINING OP TIONS

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24 - HOUR ROOM SERVICE

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VIKINGCRUISES.COM.AU

OR SEE YOUR LOCAL TRAVEL AGENT Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability and correct at time of printing. Prices based on North Pacific Passage 28 April 2021 departure in a Veranda stateroom (V2) and Far Eastern Horizons 14 April 2021 departure in a Veranda stateroom (V2). Prices include all advertised discounts. Valid on new bookings only on selected departures. Must book by 30 August 2019 unless sold out prior. For more details visit vikingcruises.com.au.

CRUISE PLUS: LUXURY Q & A

Let’s get personal LUXE FACTS Key findings from the Australian version of the 2019 Virtuoso Luxe Report:

TOP GLOBAL DESTINATIONS

Michael Londregan, Asia Pacific MD luxury travel agent network Virtuoso, has the findings of a major survey on what we want from high-end travel. Peter Lynch reports.

Italy United States France Japan Fiji

TOP EMERGING DESTINATIONS Japan Iceland Sardinia The Arctic Antarctica

TOP TRAVEL TRENDS Multigenerational travel Luxury cruising Active or adventure trips Ocean cruising River cruising

TOP ADVENTURE DESTINATIONS Antarctica Botswana New Zealand Kenya South Africa

TOP CRUISE ITINERARIES European river Mediterranean Alaska South Pacific Australia/New Zealand

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sk Michael Londregan what defines a luxury traveller, and he’ll answer straight away: “The luxury traveller is looking for personalisation, authenticity and rich experiences.

“They want the perfect product for them at a particular point in their time of life and for the people they are with,” he says.

“What is absolutely certain is that the tapestry of luxury product means that one-size-fits all will not work for them.”

Think that sounds picky? Well, it is.

The Virtuoso Luxe Report for 2019 says travellers are asking for specific seats on planes, hotel rooms and rental car models.

Nothing is left to chance, as clients want not just restaurant reservations, but exact tables and pre-ordered wine. Travel agents are asked to book particular hairdressers, massage therapists and even tattoo artists.

Australians are at the forefront of a boom in luxury travel, with more of us happy to pay for the best suites and upgrade packages on cruises, premium or business class seats on the plane and rooms in five-star hotels.

And cruise is responding with targeted itineraries and experiences.

“We have long known Australia has a strong cruise market and as it establishes

itself further, the different segments of cruising are getting more focused on trying to capture their share,” says Mr Londregan, who himself likes cruising with his family.

“We are seeing the market niche out.

Cruise companies are creating itineraries that are more exotic or more relaxed and we are seeing the industry really trying to differentiate around their own client base.”

Mr Londregan said Virtuoso members were seeing some concern about overtourism, but had a wide range of ports and vessels on offer to cope with it.

“It’s becoming more fashionable to travel to more popular destinations in shoulder seasons, at times they’re not so crowded, or people want exclusive access in times when it is,” he said.

This year is likely to see even more Australians choosing luxury products.

“In a survey of Virtuoso members in the region, 74 per cent is predicting this will be a bumper year for them on top of an already record year; they are optimistic about their growth,” Mr Londregan added.

“Our members are focused on a niche, and the luxury end of the market is resilient and has a client base that sees travel as a right not a discretionary good, which helps us remain positive about the future.”

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DESIGNED TO COMBINE Combination Cruises do exactly that: combine two or more magical voyages to create one superbly immersive itinerary. Typically spanning across 14 to 35 nights, and ideal for long-haul travellers, we have carefully curated some perfectly balanced journeys that will allow you to prolong the joy of sailing with Silversea and experience the best destinations that Europe has to offer.

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COPENHAGEN TO LONDON

VOYAGE SW200720012

VOYAGE SW200801012

SILVER WIND | 20 JULY, 2020 | 12 DAYS

Vista Suite fares from AU$9,900pp

Including Early Booking Bonus & return economy airfares

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SILVER WIND | 1 AUGUST, 2020 | 12 DAYS

Vista Suite fares from AU$9,450pp

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LONDON ROUNDTRIP | SW200720024 | SILVER WIND | 20 JULY 2020 | 24 Days Vista Suite fares from AU$17,460pp including Early Booking Bonus & return economy airfares

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT YOUR PREFERRED TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL, CALL SILVERSEA ON 1300 727 155 OR VISIT SILVERSEA.COM T&C’s - Pricing, promotions (Early Booking Bonus and included economy airfares as the Northern Europe Air Offer), inclusions, itinerary and availability subject to change and may be altered or withdrawn at any time without notice at Silversea’s discretion. Pricing correct at time of print. Silversea reserves the right to correct any errors or omissions. For complete terms and conditions, see Silversea.com.au/terms-and-conditions.

CRUISE PLUS: COSTA RICA & PANAMA

Costa Rica’s national motto translates to “everything’s fabulous”.

Sue Bryant finds out why.

d

istant drumbeats echo through the rainforest above the screech of birds.

Densely packed mangroves fringe the muddy water of the Rio Mogue, the wake of our dugout creating gentle ripples along their roots. In the distance, misty hills rise to 1,845 metres. This is the Darien Gap, the roadless and lawless border between Panama and Colombia, regarded as one of the most hostile regions in the world. There’s a hint of wood smoke in the air, suggesting, like the drumming, the presence of humans nearby.

We round a bend and sure enough, a group of Emberá Indians are barefoot on the bank, clad in beaded skirts and loincloths, chanting and at the same time, smiling broadly. As they might; groups like ours are not especially frequent but present a vital chance for the Emberá to earn some tourist dollars.

I’m on a 12-day expedition voyage with UnCruise Adventures, from Puntarenas in Costa Rica to Colon in Panama, sailing on the venerable 62-passenger Safari Voyager. The highlights come thick and fast but this encounter with the Emberá is a rare treat; their

Kayaking back to Safari Voyager.

Left: a two-toed sloth.

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CRUISE PLUS: COSTA RICA & PANAMA

pura vida FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Uncruise VESSEL: Safari Voyager STAR RATING: N/A PASSENGER CAPACITY: 62 TOTAL CREW: 31 PASSENGER DECKS: 4 ENTERED SERVICE: 1982 TONNAGE: 1,195 FACILITIES: Dining room, bar, sun deck, kayak platform, gym, library.

BOOKINGS: See uncruise.com

cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: COSTA RICA & PANAMA rainforest home is so inaccessible that NASA used it regularly for survival training back in the 1960s, when there was no telling where a space mission might land.

One of Panama’s seven indigenous tribes, the Emberá live in wooden houses built on stilts, keeping pigs and chickens and farming whatever crops the inhospitable jungle will sustain – mainly plantains, bananas and beans. They make an income from selling exquisitely woven palm fibre baskets and beaded jewellery.

The women have laid out stalls displaying an array of baskets, which we all snap up; I buy three small ones at US$20 apiece but later in the week, I see a mediumsized version for a jaw-dropping US$900 in a posh gallery in Panama City. They offer us temporary tattoos, criss-cross designs painted on our arms with the ebony-coloured juice of the jagua fruit. We banter with them in rudimentary Spanish.

We’d started our adventure in Costa Rica, exploring the forested Nicoya and Osa peninsulas. At Nicoya’s Curu Wildlife Refuge, we plunged into the trip with a three-hour hike in sweltering heat. White-faced capuchin monkeys cavorted in the trees. An agouti shot out of the undergrowth while a coatimundi, a kind of oversized racoon, snuffled in the bush. Deer wandered across the path, spiny-tailed iguanas basked in trees and leaf-cutter ants marched in solemn procession along the path. With a rapid tutorial from our Costa Rican guide, Erika, I quickly learned the concept of pura vida, Costa Rica’s most popular saying. Literally translated as ‘pure life’, it also means ‘g’day’, ‘goodbye’ and ‘everything’s fabulous’.

Each location seemed more impossibly beautiful than the last. Granito de Oro, translated as ‘grain of gold’, is a tiny island across the border in Panama, a speck of pale sand tufted with three coconut palms and surrounded by a reef. Sea turtles popped their heads out of the aquamarine water, as if beckoning snorkellers. But the heat of the dry season brings jellyfish to Panama’s Pacific side, so swimming was a distinctly prickly sensation, with any number of weird outfits being worn for snorkelling, from full wetsuits with hoods to thick pantyhose, despite the heat.

Coiba Island, at 503 square kilometres, is the largest in Central America and is entirely protected as national park, with dense rainforest and a necklace of white, sandy beaches. But there’s an air of melancholy to this lush place. From 1919 until 2004, Coiba was a highsecurity penal colony, housing 3,000 prisoners.

Conditions were horrific and many now believe the island is haunted. Four former inmates now serve as park rangers and live in converted cell blocks. They’ve formed an unlikely relationship with Tito, a centenarian crocodile who has no doubt witnessed all kinds of horrors but now emerges from the mangroves for food scraps when the rangers bang a hollow stick. When we visited, Tito skulked in the mud at the edge of his lagoon, posing obligingly for photos. We hiked up the Gambute Trail, a steep and sweaty scramble, with a reward of uninterrupted views from the top over the 80

cruisepassenger.com.au

THE VERDICT HIGHS: The crew, particularly the five local guides, who brought the destination alive. Genuinely off-the-beaten track locations. The fact that absolutely everything is included, even the services of the ship’s doctor. All you have to budget for are souvenirs and crew tips.

LOWS: Safari Voyager is an old ship. Cabins are comfortable but basic; the basin, for example, is in the bedroom, not the bathroom. There are no stabilisers, so the ship rolls in choppy sea.

Seasickness remedies are dispensed at reception.

VERDICT: A comfortable way to explore the pristine coasts of Costa Rica and Panama, including authentic encounters with indigenous tribes and visiting extraordinary places only accessible by small ship.

The 80-kilometre span of the Panama canal separates two different worlds.” forest canopy toward distant islands – places to which one-time inmates dreamed of escaping.

With no WiFi on the ship and no phone signal for days at a time, our worlds shrank into a routine of early rising, early bed, hiking, kayaking, snorkelling and swapping experiences in the bar every evening. News from home ceased to matter; apart from the Emberá and a few park rangers, we had no human contact for a week.

Fellow passengers were from North America, Australia and New Zealand, all well travelled, all adventurous and many of them UnCruise devotees. I can see why; it’s a great experience and absolutely everything is included, from an open bar to free massages from the onboard therapist. Ship life is extremely informal; there’s no dressing for dinner and I learned that it’s perfectly OK to treat the top deck as an outdoor laundry, stringing up everything from soggy walking boots to wetsuits, rash

CRUISE PLUS: COSTA RICA & PANAMA

Clockwise from top: Emberá Indian on a longboat; skiff tour in Costa Rica; a toucan; jumping mobula rays; Granito de Oro.

vests and occasionally underwear on makeshift washing lines. In the humidity, though, nothing dried.

After a week of complete immersion in nature, the sight of hundreds of massive container ships at the mouth of the Panama Canal was a sharp jolt back to the 21st century. We were scheduled for a night crossing, so the crew laid on a deck barbecue. The booze was flowing as we slid under the Bridge of the Americas at sunset, cheering as we squeezed into the Miraflores locks in the shadow of an enormous cargo ship.

The 80-kilometre span of the canal separates two different worlds. Panama’s Caribbean coast has a different feel from the Pacific in the people, the scenery and the underwater life, mercifully free of jellyfish here.

We wandered round the ramshackle village of Portobelo, which has an intriguing history, despite being almost catatonically sleepy today. Once a vital stop on the trade routes of gold, silver and pearls, Portobelo is guarded by three crumbling 17th century forts. This is the spot where, in 1596, Sir Francis Drake died of dysentery, and was buried at sea in a lead-lined coffin. For Panamanians, the local church is a pilgrimage site, to see the 17th century effigy of the Black Christ, believed to have miraculous powers.

The voyage ended with two days playing castaway in the dreamy Guna Yala archipelago. The Guna Indians here grow coconuts on miniature sand islands and catch lobster to sell to passing yachts. Like the Emberá, they’re famed for their handicrafts, in this case, intricate mola, embroidered panels that the women wear on their blouses, going for up to US$50 apiece.

I snorkelled for hours, the sea so clear that the reefs appeared as vast underwater landscapes of walls, dunes and drop-offs. Shoals of electric blue surgeonfish flitted over the coral heads, while stingrays shimmied gracefully along the sandy ocean floor. On the beach, the only sound was the lapping of waves and the occasional thud of a falling coconut. Pura Vida indeed. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: FOOD

Sea food Enfant terrible and MasterChef extraordinaire Marco Pierre White shares his opinion on food and cruising with Teresa Ooi.

“T

he simplest dish, cooked well and using great local ingredients, will create love round the dining table.”

So says Marco Pierre White, the original bad boy of British cooking. At 33, he was the youngest-ever chef to be awarded three Michelin stars, only to hand them back five years later because “maintaining three stars is pretty boring.”

He is probably best known to Australian audiences as a judge on MasterChef Australia, but White has many more strings to his bow.

The celebrity chef has worked with P&O Cruises UK since 2008 – first as a consultant to Britannia where he curated a brand new menu, then as a teacher hosting cooking classes and now, at the ripe old age of 57, he has been anointed patron of The Cookery Club on Britannia.

Ahead of White’s expansion of his portfolio of successful restaurants to Australia, we sat down with him to talk about luxury cooking, luxury cruising and most important of all, some of the best meals he’s ever tasted.

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/ You’ve travelled all over the world, what is your favourite destination?

I love Lisbon, Sydney, Melbourne, Barcelona, Valencia and most Italian ports. I am happy when I’m surrounded by friends and great restaurants. By great, I mean those which serve good, honest, authentic dishes. They don’t need to be fancy and most of them are not; just fresh local food served very simply, letting the ingredients shine through.

/ What do you enjoy most about your partnership with P&O Cruises UK? The best part of cooking with P&O is showing people how to create the most beautiful and delicious dishes at home and imparting some of the skills I have learnt over the past 40 years.

As The Cookery Club has individual cooking stations in a state-of-the-art environment, it allows me to work closely and individually with each person to help them create restaurantquality food at home.

I have been working with P&O Cruises UK for almost 12 years and I am very proud of the relationship. I love the concept of cruising; the ships are giant resorts at sea, with something for everyone. The thing which impresses me most is that with P&O, nothing is too much trouble for the crew, they all have a great attitude. I’d love for them to be working with me. / Tell us about your onboard offerings.

My passion for using fresh ingredients of sound provenance continues with P&O

CRUISE PLUS: FOOD

White’s beef Wellington.

Left: Marco Pierre White onboard.

Below: White at The Cookery Club.

Simple ingredients, prepared exquisitely, can never be beaten.”

Cruises UK and the innovative Gala Evening menus are a treat for all. I also have the Ocean Grill on Arcadia – a classic steak and seafood eatery given the Marco twist, with dishes skilfully prepared and presented by my team onboard. / How do you define luxury in a holiday?

Luxury is the time to enjoy your surroundings.

/ What onboard food says ‘luxury’?

The very best seafood and the very best beef. Quality always shines through. / What is the future of food trends?

I think the days of fussy, overcomplicated dishes are numbered. Simple ingredients, prepared exquisitely, can never be beaten.

/ What do you think of Australian food and ingredients?

The seafood and fish are spectacular and the freshness of the vegetables and fruit grown here is always phenomenal.

the terrace of Epicurean on Azura and Ventura. Sitting under the stars is absolutly wonderful and the dishes are of a consistently high standard with great variety.

/ What is the best meal you’ve ever had at sea?

Some of my favourite traditional dishes are celebrated in the five-course menu onboard P&O Cruises UK. Dishes such as dressed Devonshire crab and scallop ceviche; beef Wellington with a wild mushroom and Madeira duxelle; New England half-split lobster with mornay sauce; and Champagne sorbet.

My favourite dining experience when I am onboard with P&O Cruises UK is eating outside at night, particularly on

/ What are your tips for cooking a luxurious meal at home?

Just keep it simple. Buy the best, freshest ingredients you can afford, don’t overcomplicate it and let the flavours do all the work. / Is there one cruise everyone should do at least once a lifetime?

The Fjords in the summer is spectacular. / What’s your one travel essential?

My phone, it’s literally my mobile office. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: WELLNESS

cruise losers How to have your cake and eat it too.

Teresa Ooi reports.

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g

one is the stigma that cruises are only about lining up at the buffet for extra crab claws drenched in butter and sipping sugary cocktails on the lido deck. Increasingly, it is possible to avoid gaining weight – or even lose it! – on a cruise.

WW, perhaps better known by their former name Weight Watchers, is setting sail on a cruise tailored to guests who want to drop kilos without having to forgo delicious meals.

The cruise departs in July on MSC Seaview to sail the Mediterranean – a region renowned for its healthy diet and lifestyle. The ship visits ports in Spain, Italy and France during the height of summer, the best time to cruise this idyllic part of the world.

While exploring a beautiful part of the world, the WW cruise will focus on wellness and moderation.

Cruisers will be offered freshly prepared, healthy meals and snacks, wellness workshops, fitness classes, one-on-one sessions with a WW coach and an assessment and goal-setting session with a personal trainer.

The food will be delicious – look out for feta, dill and tomato omelettes; spicy miso, ginger and carrot dip; and panna cotta – but the WW cruise will use a simple point system to help cruisers stay on track.

CRUISE PLUS: WELLNESS

“People are increasingly looking for healthy escapes that allow them to relax and focus on themselves while continuing to develop the healthy habits they practice in everyday life... The WW cruise will show how being healthy is possible 365 days of the year, no matter what the occasion,” says Mathieu Le Renard, managing director of WW in Australia and New Zealand.

Norwegian Cruise Lines, Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas Cruises are also seeing an increased interest in wellness.

“I anticipate that will be a trend that will continue to gain momentum in 2019 as more people become increasingly mindful and proactive in their approach to their general health and wellbeing,” says Ben Angell, vice president of Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings in Asia Pacific.

“Some guests might take a cruise with a fitness or weight loss goal as a priority, while others might see wellness offerings as an enticing option.”

All three lines offer a variety of fitness, spa, wellness and healthy menu options that guests can utilise as much or as little as they like.

Many of our guests come onboard to lose weight or to improve their health and fitness.”

Oceania and Regent offer a variety of vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options to accommodate guests with dietary requirements or a desire to eat lighter meals while onboard. NCL also has healthier menu options including low-calorie, vegetarian, no MSG, low/no sodium, low/no cholesterol, sugar-free and fat-free meals and desserts.

In addition, the three lines hold fitness classes and offer personal trainers at their state-of-the-art fitness centres. Oceania alone has more than 20 fitness classes, ranging from sunrise stretch and yoga to more comprehensive programs like boot camp, full-body strength training and core conditioning. Regent even offers special exercise classes for weight loss where passengers learn how to stimulate their metabolism to reduce body fat.

“There’s a perception that many people undertake cruises to overindulge on sumptuous foods and laze on a lawn chair all day with a piña colada in hand, however this simply isn’t true,” an Oceania spokesperson said.

“Many of our guests come onboard to lose weight or to improve their health and fitness.”

While Princess Cruises does not have weight-lossfocused itineraries, the line does have state-of-the-art fitness centres offering spin sessions, Pilates, Zumba, yoga, tai chi, boot camps and TRX Suspension Training.

It also suggests passengers take the stairs instead of the lift, walk or run on the jogging track, choose active shore excursions exploring destinations by

Left: a Silversea cruiser enjoys poolside yoga.

Above: healthy meals on the WW cruise.

foot or on bikes and eat more greens rather than fried foods at the buffets.

Carnival Cruise Line says that there are plenty of ways to stay fit and healthy and even lose weight on a cruise. The fitness centres have the latest equipment to “burn, firm and sculpt” and there are free stretch classes, as well as personal trainers, yoga classes and boot camps available at an additional charge.

Passengers are encouraged to sweat it out in a game of soccer or basketball at the sports court, or attend seminars on ‘ways to increase your metabolism’, ‘eating well to weigh less’ and even ‘secrets to a flatter stomach’.

Silversea takes pride in offering guests a range of dining options to help them eat well and keep their diet balanced. Cruisers can also take complimentary classes in aerobics, yoga, pilates and circuit training, use the outdoor jogging track, sign up for active shore excursions or engage the ship’s personal trainers for private training sessions for a fee.

As now-retired Princess Cruises captain Graham Goodway once said, the secret to maintaining a healthy weight while onboard is to “exercise a good deal of self-control.”

Perhaps the other secret is to take a wellness-focused cruise. At last, a way to have your cake and eat it too. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PASSENGER HOTEL REVIEW

Oh, Kolkata!

Taj Bengal, filled with food, art and warm service, is the perfect base in the heart of the city, writes Teresa Ooi.

O Above: the large marble atrium.

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n arrival at the Taj Bengal, we are immediately struck by the grand five-storey marble atrium. This landmark hotel in the heart of the cultural neighbourhood of Alipore in Kolkata has played host to the likes of the Dalai Lama, Hillary Clinton and Indian cricketer Sachin Tendulkar who, no doubt, were all equally awed by the impressive foyer.

Designed by American architect Bob Fox, the lavish interiors of the hotel were inspired by the city’s famed art, culture

and heritage, and the result is a perfect balance of grandeur and understated elegance. Antiques, terracotta statues, traditional puppets and artefacts share display space with paintings by famed Bengali artists and lush greenery.

The hotel boasts eight restaurants offering cuisines from all over the world.

For North-West Indian, Punjabi and Bengali food there’s Sonargaon, Chinese foodies can head to Chinoiserie, and those who want authentic Lebanese and Mediterranean food can dine at Souk. There’s a 24-hour coffee house, Cal 27, which also serves a generous buffet breakfast, and if you fancy drinks and canapés, head to the old-fashioned railway-themed bar, The Junction.

The 229 rooms and suites are decorated in classic wood furnishings with luxurious fabrics in creams and golds, and are fitted with modern conveniences.

We check into a premium suite, an expansive room with a separate work station, a seating area with views over the city, a king-sized bed and complimentary access to the club lounge where à la carte breakfast is served and complimentary tea and coffee are available.

As we’ve arrived late in the evening, we pop into Cal 27 for a light supper of mutton rogan josh, roti, yoghurt and a glass of local wine. The restaurant overlooks the swimming pool and garden, which are beautifully lit by night. Even at the late hour, the hotel lobby and restaurants are abuzz with guests as Indians tend to eat late into the night.

Service at both reception and the restaurant is friendly and attentive – the staff here knows how to look after guests.

Clockwise from above: a grand luxury suite; the atrium from above; Souk restaurant.

Staying at the lively Taj Bengal is a great introduction to Kolkata. You’re within walking distance of several prominent landmarks, including the Victoria Memorial, Royal Calcutta Turf Club, National Library and Alipore Zoological Gardens, and the staff is happy to direct you on your city explorations. If you can bear to drag yourself away from this beautiful hotel, that is.

STYLE: LUXURY

Loewe bag, $2,666, ssense.com

Longines watch, $2,700, longines.com.au

cruise chic Onboard sartorial laws call for an extra level of luxury.

Pack accordingly.

Zimmermann dress, $595, zimmermannwear.com

Dolce & Gabbana dress, $3,083,matchesfashion.com

Gucci sunglasses, $575, net-a-porter.com

Rosantica by Michela Panero earrings, $462, matchesfashion.com

Valentino wedges, $1,120, matchesfashion.com

Burberry blazer, $2,850, matchesfashion.com 90

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STYLE: LUXURY

Tom Ford sunglasses, $486, mrporter.com Dr Harris Windsor shaving kit, $221, mrporter.com Acne Studios shirt, $460, acnestudios.com Amiri pants, $2,193, mrporter.com

Karmme satchel, $280, karmme.com.au

Saint Laurent sneakers, $644, mrporter.com Xxxx xxx xxxx xxxxx xxxx x x x xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxx xxxxxxx xxx xxxx xxxx xxx xxx xxx xxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Saba blazer, $499, saba.com.au

Globe-Trotter suitcase, $2,891, globe-trotter.com

Tissot watch, $2,100, davidjones.com cruisepassenger.com.au

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PORTS REPORT

Queensland now the hottest place to cruise

There’s both development and stagnation in domestic cruising, writes Vanessa Wu.

Q

ueensland is fast becoming the most popular cruise destination in Australia.

While NSW is stuck in the doldrums thanks to a lack of capacity and a logjam on choosing a third terminal, the Sunshine State is storming ahead with a new $158 million cruise terminal set to open in Brisbane in October 2020.

The state has set steep targets for the new facility at Luggage Point but it already has 180 bookings for ships in the first year.

Carnival Cruise Line, Royal Caribbean and Norwegian Cruise Line, among others, are lining up 92

cruisepassenger.com.au

to dock their ships in the new state-ofthe-art facility, which can handle even the largest of vessels.

Carnival Cruise Line will homeport Carnival Spirit in Brisbane year round, a first for the line, and she will sail to the tropical archipelagos of Vanuatu and New Caledonia, as well as offer shorter cruises to popular destinations in North Queensland.

Meanwhile, to the north, the port of Cairns is also looking to host 100 additional cruise ships annually by 2031 with a $120 million upgrade to the port.

In South Australia, Adelaide is seeing year-on-year growth in cruise ship arrivals. The 2019/20 summer season will see Cruise & Maritime Voyages homeport Vasco da Gama in Adelaide, introduce Broome to their itineraries and be the first line to visit the South Australian port of Wallaroo.

The line will be sailing itineraries that range from a two-night WesternAustralian weekend escape to exotic escapes to Southeast Asia.

Princess Cruises has also announced the biggest-ever cruise industry commitment to South Australia, with 20 cruises in summer 2020/21 on Sea, Sapphire and Majestic Princess.

No such good news from New South Wales, even though Sydney remains the single most sought-after port by foreign cruise passengers coming to Australia. The city remains unable to take more than one large ship a day as the harbour has just one dock, and

PORT SCHEDULE

Port Schedule

Cruise ships calling at Australia and New Zealand, June 2019 - August 2019 DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

DATE

AIRLIE BEACH, QUEENSLAND 6-JUN-19 23-JUN-19 11-JUL-19 15- JUL -19 25- JUL -19 11-AUG-19

PACIFIC DAWN CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC ARIA

P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

BRISBANE, QUEENSLAND

Here and below: renderings of Brisbane’s new cruise terminal.

bigger ships are too big to go under the Harbour Bridge and dock at White Bay. “A lack of berthing capacity in Sydney has hampered cruise lines’ efforts to expand their operations in local waters,” says Cruise Lines International Association’s managing director, Joel Katz.

Molineaux Point and Yarra Bay are currently the strongest contenders for a third cruise terminal, but there is still much to be considered: environmental impact, transport, financing, fishing, heritage, indigenous culture, noise, social impacts and community consultation.

The newly re-elected premier of NSW, Gladys Berejiklian, says she has a new mandate to get the job done and the $4.8 billion cruise industry is hoping the Liberal leader will break the deadlock and order a full business case.

Even if she does, by the time environmental checks and public consultation have taken place, and designs agree, it will be years before a new cruise terminal is up and running.

4-JUN-19 8- JUN -19 15- JUN -19 29- JUN -19 6-JUL-19 9- JUL -19 13- JUL -19 20- JUL -19 27- JUL -19 30- JUL -19 9-AUG-19 13- AUG -19 23- AUG -19 30- AUG -19

PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA

P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

CAIRNS, QUEENSLAND 26-JUL-19 27- JUL -19

PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER

P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

DARWIN, NORTHERN TERRITORY 4-JUN-19 12- JUN -19 24- JUN -19 2-JUL-19 22- JUL -19 5-AUG-19 11- AUG -19

SILVER DISCOVERER LE LAPEROUSE SILVER DISCOVERER LE LAPEROUSE LE LAPEROUSE PACIFIC DAWN LE LAPEROUSE

SILVERSEA CRUISES PONANT SILVERSEA CRUISES PONANT PONANT P&O CRUISES PONANT

20-JUN-19 21- JUN -19 22- JUN -19

P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

PORT DOUGLAS, QUEENSLAND 17- JUL -19 2-AUG-19

PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN

P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER

P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES 27-MAY-19 28-MAY-19 1- JUN -19 7- JUN -19 8- JUN -19 10- JUN -19 11- JUN -19 15- JUN -19 18- JUN -19 19- JUN -19 24- JUN -19 27- JUN -19 6-JUL-19 6- JUL -19 10- JUL -19 14- JUL -19 19- JUL -19 22- JUL -19 22- JUL -19 1-AUG-19 2-AUG-19 5-AUG-19 8-AUG-19 12-AUG-19 13-AUG-19 20-AUG-19 23-AUG-19 26-AUG-19 29-AUG-19 30-AUG-19

CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT CARNIVAL SPIRIT SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC EXPLORER

CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES

YORKEYS KNOB, QUEENSLAND

MORETON ISLAND, QUEENSLAND PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER

CRUISE LINE

HOBART, TASMANIA

16-JUL-19

30-MAY-19 6- JUN -19 13- JUN -19 25- JUN -19 8-JUL-19 30- JUL -19 6-AUG-19

SHIP

PACIFIC DAWN

P&O CRUISES

AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND 31-MAY-19 3-JUN-19 13-JUN-19 21-JUN-19 24-JUN-19 6-JUL-19 16-JUL-19 24-JUL-19 2-AUG-19 5-AUG-19 25-AUG-19 26-AUG-19 28-AUG-19

PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES SEA PRINCESS PRINCESS CRUISES SEA PRINCESS PRINCESS CRUISES PACIFIC ARIA P&O CRUISES

cruisepassenger.com.au

93

LAST WORD

Decoding the dress code

Evening Style Guide

On certain lines there are sartorial rules one must adhere to.

Teresa Ooi tries to keep up.

“g

od help you if you arrive in a cream Paul Smith jacket when the invitation dictated a tux,” whispered one passenger who habitually cruises Cunard, his face suffused in horror.

The legendary British line has one of the most elaborate dress codes on land or sea – and you are expected to follow the rules to the letter. Cunard cruisers take their dress code seriously.

Too seriously? Cunard’s president, Simon Palethorpe, doesn’t think so. He says it’s the “sense of occasion” that has led to record bookings, including those from Australia where Queen Elizabeth will have a record 101-day season at the end of the year.

In case of any confusion, Cunard’s website features a helpful What to Pack section, with pictures of appropriate outfits for daytime, smart casual and – the highlight of every itinerary – the formal gala evenings. They even include suggested labels, predominantly British with a smattering of American and European designer names.

For daytime, men are encouraged to wear collared shirts, and shorts (if you must!) should be tailored.

Women may wear smart dresses, pants and tops.

Even in their casual venues, Cunard asks that “guests refrain from wearing torn or tattered clothing, shorts, sandals or sleeveless T-shirts.”

On informal evenings, men are required to wear jackets but a tie is optional. Ladies usually appear in dresses or pantsuits. For instance, for smart evening attire for women, Cunard suggests a Joseph dress or a Karen Millen jumpsuit, with Kurt Geiger shoes.

Men should be decked out in a Howick or John Rocha blazer with chinos and a Ben Sherman shirt.

For gala evenings, men might wear a velvet jacket and cravat by Peter Christian, or a dinner suit by Hugo Boss with a Thomas Pink shirt. Women will do nicely in an Adrianna Papell evening gown, or a jacket and trousers ensemble by Damsel in a Dress.

Even the Cunard bell boys are snappily dressed; their Down Under uniform consists of a red tailored jacket with gold buttons and black cuffs, black twill pants, handmade leather belts and R.M. Williams’ 94

cruisepassenger.com.au

iconic boots, soled in striking Cunard red, topped off with an Akubra.

Similar dress codes apply on Silversea, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Crystal Cruises and Seabourn (the line that famously gives guests free caviar but charges for internet) with a few variations on the theme.

On formal evenings, men are requested to wear a tuxedo or dark business suit while ladies may wear evening gowns, cocktail dresses or formal suits (how modern!)

Whatever the occasion, you must be well groomed. One can be casual without being unkempt, after all.”

For elegant casual evenings, men are expected to be in slacks and a shirt, with an optional but encouraged jacket and tie. Ladies can be in a dress, skirt or pants and a blouse or sweater.

Obviously, whatever the occasion, you must be well groomed. One can be casual without being unkempt, after all.

In daylight hours, dress codes are relaxed to allow casual or active resort wear. Guidelines vary by line, generally jeans, tailored shorts, T-shirts and smart tennis shoes are allowed, but swimsuits, cover-up robes, baseball hats and denim cut-off shorts are not, especially in dining venues. After 6pm, beware – casual daytime wear is “not appropriate” and jeans may not be worn in any dining venues, lounges or casinos. Just remember, when the sun goes down, the style goes up.

It’s all about dressing for the occasion, and God help you if you get it wrong.

LAST WORD

Decoding the dress code

Evening Style Guide

On certain lines there are sartorial rules one must adhere to.

Teresa Ooi tries to keep up.

“g

od help you if you arrive in a cream Paul Smith jacket when the invitation dictated a tux,” whispered one passenger who habitually cruises Cunard, his face suffused in horror.

The legendary British line has one of the most elaborate dress codes on land or sea – and you are expected to follow the rules to the letter. Cunard cruisers take their dress code seriously.

Too seriously? Cunard’s president, Simon Palethorpe, doesn’t think so. He says it’s the “sense of occasion” that has led to record bookings, including those from Australia where Queen Elizabeth will have a record 101-day season at the end of the year.

In case of any confusion, Cunard’s website features a helpful What to Pack section, with pictures of appropriate outfits for daytime, smart casual and – the highlight of every itinerary – the formal gala evenings. They even include suggested labels, predominantly British with a smattering of American and European designer names.

For daytime, men are encouraged to wear collared shirts, and shorts (if you must!) should be tailored.

Women may wear smart dresses, pants and tops.

Even in their casual venues, Cunard asks that “guests refrain from wearing torn or tattered clothing, shorts, sandals or sleeveless T-shirts.”

On informal evenings, men are required to wear jackets but a tie is optional. Ladies usually appear in dresses or pantsuits. For instance, for smart evening attire for women, Cunard suggests a Joseph dress or a Karen Millen jumpsuit, with Kurt Geiger shoes.

Men should be decked out in a Howick or John Rocha blazer with chinos and a Ben Sherman shirt.

For gala evenings, men might wear a velvet jacket and cravat by Peter Christian, or a dinner suit by Hugo Boss with a Thomas Pink shirt. Women will do nicely in an Adrianna Papell evening gown, or a jacket and trousers ensemble by Damsel in a Dress.

Even the Cunard bell boys are snappily dressed; their Down Under uniform consists of a red tailored jacket with gold buttons and black cuffs, black twill pants, handmade leather belts and R.M. Williams’ 94

cruisepassenger.com.au

iconic boots, soled in striking Cunard red, topped off with an Akubra.

Similar dress codes apply on Silversea, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Crystal Cruises and Seabourn (the line that famously gives guests free caviar but charges for internet) with a few variations on the theme.

On formal evenings, men are requested to wear a tuxedo or dark business suit while ladies may wear evening gowns, cocktail dresses or formal suits (how modern!)

Whatever the occasion, you must be well groomed. One can be casual without being unkempt, after all.”

For elegant casual evenings, men are expected to be in slacks and a shirt, with an optional but encouraged jacket and tie. Ladies can be in a dress, skirt or pants and a blouse or sweater.

Obviously, whatever the occasion, you must be well groomed. One can be casual without being unkempt, after all.

In daylight hours, dress codes are relaxed to allow casual or active resort wear. Guidelines vary by line, generally jeans, tailored shorts, T-shirts and smart tennis shoes are allowed, but swimsuits, cover-up robes, baseball hats and denim cut-off shorts are not, especially in dining venues. After 6pm, beware – casual daytime wear is “not appropriate” and jeans may not be worn in any dining venues, lounges or casinos. Just remember, when the sun goes down, the style goes up.

It’s all about dressing for the occasion, and God help you if you get it wrong.

CRUISE WITH CONFIDENCE Book your next cruise holiday with a specialist travel agent accredited by the official body of the cruise industry.

Travel agents with accreditation from Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) are trained cruising experts with the most detailed and up-to-date knowledge available.

Look for the CLIA logo and travel agents that display their accreditation credentials.

Go to www.cruising.org.au to find your nearest cruise specialist agent

CRUISING AUSTRALIA'S TOP END

Stop guessing. Start doing. It's about time you did the NT by cruise & rail.

Top End & Adelaide Highlights with Radiance of the Seas® & The Ghan 13 nights | 9 February 2020

• 8 nights aboard Radiance of the Seas® cruising from Sydney to Darwin with port calls in Brisbane & Cairns (Yorkey’s Knob). Includes on board meals & entertainment.

• Darwin City Sights tour including lunch.

• 2 night stay in Darwin including breakfast & transfers.

• Charles Darwin Sunset Buffet Dinner Cruise.

• 2 nights aboard The Ghan travelling from Darwin to Adelaide in Gold or Platinum Service. Includes all meals, drinks & Off Train Experiences in Katherine, Alice Springs & Manguri.

• 2 night stay in Adelaide including breakfast & transfers.

• Adelaide Central Market tour.

Top End & Perth Adventure with Radiance of the Seas® & The Ghan 21 nights | 9 February 2020

Darwin Katherine

Cairns

Alice Springs Manguri

Brisbane

Adelaide

twin from

Sydney

5,569

$

pp

• 2 nights aboard The Ghan travelling from Adelaide to Darwin in Gold or Platinum Service.

Includes all meals, drinks & Off Train Experiences in Marla, Alice Springs & Katherine.

• 6 night stay in Darwin including breakfast & transfers.

• Big Bus Darwin 48 hour Hop On Hop Off pass.

• Jumping Crocs & Nature Adventure tour.

• Full day Litchfield National Park Waterfalls tour.

• 8 nights aboard Radiance of the Seas® cruising from Darwin to Fremantle with port calls in Bali (Benoa), Port Hedland & Geraldton. Includes on board meals & entertainment.

• Perth City Sights tour.

• 4 night stay in Perth including breakfast & transfers.

• Overnight Margaret River Wine Experience tour including accommodation, touring & some meals.

1300 854 897

Bali

Darwin Katherine

Port Hedland Alice Springs Marla Geraldton

Perth/Fremantle Margaret River

twin from

Adelaide

7,099

$

pp

holidays@holidaysofaustralia.com.au or contact your local travel agent

www.holidaysofaustralia.com.au

Terms & Conditions: Fares are per person in AUD based on twin share in an interior cruise cabin & gold service rail. Inclusive of all discounts, taxes, fees & port expenses if applicable which are subject to change. Prices correct as at 29.04.19.

Subject to availability. Airfares, hotels & transfers are additional unless otherwise stated. Cancellation charges apply. For full terms & conditions contact Holidays of Australia and the World. E&OE - HA1497.