Cruise Passenger – Issue 77, Spring 2019

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WIN A KIMBERLEY CRUISE WITH CORAL EXPEDTIONS WORTH $20,000 CRUISEPASSENGER.COM.AU

ISSUE 77 SPRING 2019

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Our Cruise Experts have sailed all over the world – on all ships, itineraries and cruise lines, so we know cruise.

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CONTENTS

cruÄąse 36 Issue 77, Spring 2019

passenger

Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au

S P R I N G

2019

Deputy editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Art director/production manager Catherine Martin Sub editor Hannah Warren Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au

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77 / Subscribe & win!

Strategic partnerships manager Carolyn Mackley carolyn@bigsplashmedia.com.au 02 9356 8888

SHIP REVIEWS

32 / Sea Princess Sarah Nicholson has a Real Adventure in Papua New Guinea.

Digital manager Rupert Orchard Contributors and writers Bernadette Chua, Mark Daffey, David Dickstein, Brian Johnston, Peter Lynch, Sarah Nicholson, Teresa Ooi, Barry Stone, Hannah Warren, Becky Wiggins, Vanessa Wu. Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 - Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 - International cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine Printed by Spotpress

9-29 / Cruise News

36 / Viking Delling

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On a river cruise in France, Peter Lynch enjoys the region's food and wine.

42 / Azamara Pursuit This is the only way to spend summer in Greece, according to Brian Johnston.

46 / Silver Muse Becky Wiggins gets a preview of Silversea's new S.A.L.T foodie initiative.

CRUISE MEDIA

SUSTAINABILITY

AUSTRALASIA

Cruise Passenger magazine is published by Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Copyright Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders.

Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided.

Always consult your travel agent.

Cover: Hurtigruten’s Roald Amundsen.

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52 / What's the problem?

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What cruise lines and passengers are thinking about now.

54/ What lines are doing Steps cruise companies are taking to make cruising more sustainable, and what you can do to help.

56 / Ship of the future High-tech Roald Amundsen is packed with plenty of next-gen features for thoughtful cruising.

62 / How to avoid the crowds Make these simple destination swaps to reduce the pressure on the hot spots.

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

Spring into cruise!

W

elcome to our bumper spring edition on the eve of Australia and New Zealand’s cruising season. We have more vessels homeporting around our major cities than ever before – great news for ports in Western Australia, South Australia and Queensland. Brisbane has a huge new port opening next year that's already attracting record bookings.

The environment is a subject now on every traveller's mind - including cruisers. We're carrying a special report in this edition showing much is being done to create sustainable solutions, including the launch of a new ship which runs in part on battery power, creating zero emissions.

WIN!

A 10-NIGHT KIMBERLEY CRUISE

16 CRUISE PLUS

66 / Ports of Australia There's lots here for domestic cruisers.

68 / West coast CMV's Vasco da Gama is set to cruise Western Australia.

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74 / Fly cruise Move over Singapore, Shanghai is gunning for top fly-cruise city.

76 / Chasing the dragons Komodo Island's wildlife is best viewed from the deck of a luxury yacht.

82 / Airline review British Airways' business class comes with its own etiquette rules.

84 / Plant power Regent Seven Seas has an exciting new vegan-friendly menu.

86 / Style Pack sustainble fashion for your next getaway.

88 / Port schedule 90 / Last word Want a clean carbon footprint?

We want your votes today!

Our People’s Choice Awards will close on September 27, and this year, we are holding our inaugural event to hand out the gongs!

Last year saw our biggest participation yet, with more than 10,000 voters, and this year, we’ve already topped that.

A big thank you to those who have already cast their votes.

Telling us your favourite lines and why you appreciate them only takes a few minutes but it is so important for the crews who work hard to make our holidays great.

It helps other passengers pick the right ships for their holidays, and contributes to improvements and change. We know cruise line managers carefully read the results of one of the biggest polls of their customers in the Southern Hemisphere.

Go to cruisepassenger.com.au/ readers-choice-awards-2019 to cast your vote today and you could even win a seat at our awards event in Sydney.

Smooth sailing!

Peter Lynch Publisher, Cruise Passenger

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THE BIG PICTURE

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THE BIG PICTURE

THE BIG PICTURE I C E L A N D This beautiful spot, at the juncture of Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers, is one that may not last much longer. Iceland loses about 11 billion tonnes of ice per year. Boutique small ship line Windstar offers shore excursions to see this remarkable place.

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The Thinking Person’s Cruise® At Viking, we believe travel is more than just a holiday — it should be a doorway to cultural insight and personal enrichment.

Our ocean cruise itineraries are designed to help you explore and engage with each destination through its history, traditions, cuisine and customs, which is why we have become affectionately known as The Thinking Person’s Cruise®.

Discover our range of bespoke journeys that will open your mind, stir your curiosity and feed your perpetual desire for knowledge.

THINKING MEDITERR ANEAN THINK VIKING

Viking isn’t for everyone, but we just might be for you.

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Prices are per person, in AUD and based on double occupancy. All pricing and offers are subject to availability and may vary depending on departure date and stateroom category. Valid on new bookings only on selected departures made between 1 September and 30 November 2019 unless sold out prior. For full terms and conditions visit vikingcruises.com.au.

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CruiseNews OCEAN • RIVER • ADVENTURE • PORTS

INSIDE

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20 The newest and best entertainment at sea.

26 The must-have accessory for luxury ships.

28 What can your Activities Manager do for you?

The cast of Norwegian Cruise Line’s Six.

EST

ade

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CRUISE NEWS: WAVE SEASON

SUMMER of CRUISING The countdown in on for Australia’s cruise season, and there's plenty on offer with lots of new ships and itineraries. Here’s a peek at what we’ll see in the next six months.

/ Princess Cruises

/ Azamara Club Cruises

Australia’s favourite line will station a fleet of four here this season. Sydney will have Majestic Princess and, for the first time, Ruby Princess. Golden Princess will live in Melbourne, sailing to New Zealand, Australia and the South Pacific. Sun Princess will homeport in Fremantle and sail the west coast and Southeast Asia, as well as a 46-day Indian Ocean and South Africa cruise.

Azamara Journey will sail five itineraries in Australia and New Zealand between January and April, and will offer unique pre-and post-cruise land excursions for guests who want a deeper exploration of the country.

/ Royal Caribbean Royal Caribbean will begin the season with the arrival in Sydney of Radiance of the Seas on October 9, Ovation of the Seas on on October 20 and Voyager of the Seas – fresh from an extensive makeover – on November 30, all to be homeported for the season for a total of 61 sailings.

/ Oceania Oceania Regatta is offering five 14- to 19-day cruises from Sydney to Australia, New Zealand, the South Pacific and Indonesia.

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/ Cruise & Maritime Voyages Vasco da Gama has a range of themed cruises during its Australian season; a Boutique Gin and Culinary cruise from Adelaide to Fremantle in January, a Sydney to Adelaide Military History cruise in December, and a one-night Fringe on the Water festival in Fremantle in February.

/ Norwegian Cruise Line Norwegian Jewel returns to Australia for her third season, kicking off with a 17-day journey from Papeete to Sydney in November. She then offers several itineraries between Sydney and Auckland, and a longer 12-day Australia and New Zealand itinerary.

CRUISE NEWS: WAVE SEASON

/ Regent Seven Seas Luxury line Regent Seas Sevens will have Seven Seas Navigator, Seven Seas Mariner and Seven Seas Voyager ply local waters this season, offering sailings to Singapore, Papeete, Bali and New Zealand.

/ Cunard Queen Elizabeth will be in Australia between December and March, sailing six round trips from Melbourne and two from Sydney with calls in Australia, New Zealand and Papua New Guinea. Highlights are the Christmas and New Year sailing from Melbourne to New Zealand and the new 14-night cruise to PNG.

/ Silversea Silver Muse departs Singapore on November 18 on an 18-day cruise to Sydney where she'll stay for the season with 11 sailings to New Zealand and Singapore. Silver Whisper will also arrive in Sydney in March, as part of a world cruise.

/ Carnival Cruise Line Carnival’s new ship, Carnival Splendor, will be launched in December and homeported in Sydney year-round, offering short trips to Moreton Island and Tasmania, a cruise to Melbourne Cup, and longer cruises to the South

Voyager of the Seas in Sydney Harbour.

Pacific and New Zealand. From October 2020, Carnival Spirit will be the line’s first ship based in Brisbane.

/ P&O Cruises Australia P&O will send five cruises from Brisbane and one from Sydney to the colourful paradise of Papua New Guinea.

The line’s three mid-sized ships, Pacific Explorer in Sydney, and Pacific Aria and Pacific Dawn in Brisbane also offer themed cruises on food, wine, comedy and major sports events this season.

/ Ponant Le Lapérouse will return to Sydney for the start of the annual Sydney to Hobart race on Boxing Day, then will follow the yachts down the eastern seaboard to Hobart, with race commentary from two racing veterans. Guests will stay on the ship for three nights in Hobart, welcoming in the New Year with the city's fireworks.

/ Viking Ocean Cruises Viking Orion will arrive in Sydney in December for a three-month season sailing 14-night itineraries between Sydney and Auckland. She will close the season with a grand voyage of 92 days from Auckland.

She returns to Sydney in November 2020. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS: WAVE SEASON

T

he big reveal is nearly here – four new ships will be in Australian and New Zealand waters for this year’s cruise season. As a bonus, we will also be getting a first look at three recently refurbished ships. Here is what the new ships are offering this season: Carnival Splendor Carnival Australia Carnival Splendor, Carnival’s newest and largest ship, will be homeported year-round in Australia. A highlight is her waterslide 50 metres above the ocean – the height of Sydney Harbour Bridge! Splendor will also have an eclectic line up of new culinary options like Indian fare, handmade pizzas and New Englandstyle seafood. A first for any Carnival ship in Australia is spa accommodation; Cloud 9 Spa spans two decks and has more than a dozen treatment

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rooms, exclusive spa staterooms, a thermal suite, thalassotherapy pool and an expansive fitness centre.

Ruby Princess Princess Cruises The 3,080-guest Ruby Princess is making her maiden arrival in Australia in late October.

2020. The ship offers dining favourites like the Salty Dog Gastropub, Crown Grill and SHARE by Curtis Stone. Spend the day relaxing poolside or practicing your putt on the mini course or the golf simulator, which recreates some of the world’s greatest golf courses.

CMV Vasco da Gama Cruise & Maritime Voyages The line will be replacing Astor with their newest ship

Vasco da Gama.The ship has contemporary décor and will offer a more traditional cruise experience. Vasco da Gama also has an expanded food selection, including British cuisine with a twist, The Club Bistro, Asian and Mediterranean cuisine.

Voyager of the Seas Royal Caribbean After a $138 million refurbishment, Voyager is even more family friendly, with a new glow-in-the-dark laser tag course, a redesigned kids' club with a dedicated nursery, an Adventure Open club for kids and a teen hangout with a special outdoor deck. The Perfect Storm waterslide duo Typhoon and Cyclone will also be added. Guests can explore the ship and plan their

WHAT'S NEW?

daily activities on the line's advanced mobile app.

Regatta and Insignia Oceania Cruises Regatta and Insignia have recently undergone refurbishment and they boast brand new staterooms and suites. The public spaces have been refreshed to give the ships a more contemporary and elegant feel with a soft colour palette and stylish furnishings.

Seven Seas Navigator Regent Seven Seas Seven Seas Navigator emerged from her two-week refurbishment in June and the 490-passenger ship is perfect for guests looking for an intimate luxury experience.

The refreshed ship offers new décor in restaurants and public spaces, Italian marble floor in the Atrium, an updated spa and expanded beauty

Images of Voyager of the Seas® reflect current design concepts and may include artistic rendering and/or images of existing Voyager Class ships. All ship features, experiences, and itineraries are subject to change without notice.

CRUISE WITH THE BEST I N T H E S O U T H PAC I F I C

This isn’t an ordinary holiday. This is the newly amped up Voyager of the Seas®, packed with more ways to play. With a three-storey waterslide, laser-tag, FlowRiderSM surf simulator, a newly designed spa and more, cruise with the Best in the South Pacific with Royal Caribbean®’s Voyager of the Seas®.

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VOYAGER OF THE SEAS® SAILING FROM SYDNEY NOVEMBER 2019

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IN SOUTH PACIFIC

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ADVERTORIAL

KELLI’S CRUISE MONTH TIPS This CLIA Cruise Month, Flight Centre Cruise Expert Kelli Willis shares her secrets on the who, where and when of booking your next trip.

What are the biggest trends in cruise?

Northern Europe and the Baltics are popular with people who have ‘been there, done that’ and want something a little different. There's also growth in Japan cruising. It’s a great option for people wanting to experience Japan without the expense of hotels and transport.

Which cruise line would you recommend for…

A cruise with kids? Carnival Cruise Line has an amazing kids’ club, a partnership with games giant Hasbro gives some great entertainment options, and Seuss at Sea activities offer something a little different.

Couples only? Celebrity Cruises’ modern luxury makes you feel pampered without the five-star price tag. There are no formal nights, so leave the tux at home.

Baby boomers? Norwegian Cruise Line is freestyle cruising – no set dining times, no formal nights – just enjoy the many included dining and entertainment options, from light comedy to full stage productions.

The entire family? On Royal Caribbean, the ship can be your destination. There’s plenty for the young or young-at-heart – ice-skating, dodgem cars, but there’s also an adults-only sanctuary. Plus, your cruise fare includes dining at multiple venues for all the family.

What’s new to try?

Adventure and small ships are visiting some amazing destinations: coastal Croatia is a must-see. New routes are opening up Greenland, Iceland and the Polar regions.

When can I look out for the best deals?

In April and May the lines start program launches for the new season. Generally, they work 18 months ahead so this will give you a great heads up on new ships and itineraries. Deals are often launched at the same time, so getting in early will get you the cruise of your choice, in the cabin of your choice. If you’re happy to drop everything, last-minute and off-season cruises can be bargains if you aren’t too picky about where you go.

Cruise Expert Kelli Willis is based at Flight Centre Chermside. Visit flightcentre.com.au or call our dedicated cruise line on 13 70 79.

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Azamara extends land program Azamara has revealed the largest-ever selection of pre- and post-voyage land programs in a major change of emphasis for the three-ship line.

There are now more than 1,700 Ventures Beyond The Sea programs designed to complement cruises by connecting guests to local communities and their cultures, nature, food and wine.

One such land program lets guests unearth Hindu stories carved on the walls of Elephanta Island’s cave temples in India. Another is a tour in the Brazilian Pantanal region, where cruisers will have the chance to spot the area’s native jaguars and other exotic creatures such as howler monkeys and black vultures.

Gin ahoy!

Cruise & Maritime Voyages is introducing a ginthemed cruise to tickle tastebuds aboard Vasco da Gama. Five years ago, there were fewer than ten gin distilleries in Australia but, thanks to rising popularity, there are now more than 100, and CMV is capitalising on the trend with a Boutique Gin and Culinary cruise.

Combining booze and food, this special voyage will showcase the best local gin and produce from South Australia and Western Australia. It will feature cooking demonstrations that showcase the spirits, lectures from gin experts and distillers, and, of course, tastings.

The gins available on board will primarily be traditional London-dry styles brought to life with native Australian botanicals from boutique distilleries

READER COMPETITION

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READER COMPETITION

Win

a 10-night Kimberley cruise worth $20,580 with Coral Expeditions

■ Kimberley cruise pioneers Coral Expeditions is offering readers an opportunity to experience the Kimberley for themselves on the brand-new expedition ship, Coral Adventurer.

This once-in-a-lifetime journey explores the majestic coast of the Kimberley and gets you up close to the landmarks and hidden gems of this ancient coastline.

Best seen by small ship, the vastness of the Kimberley is well known to Coral Expeditions.

With 23 years’ experience exploring the coastline, they bring unsurpassed experience and passion for sharing the region with guests from around the world.

The Ancient Lands of the Kimberley 10-night expedition is a classic voyage that shows just why the Kimberley continues to be a bucketlist destination. Onboard, enjoy the expansive indoor and outdoor lounge and bar spaces, the open bridge, and the comfort of a Coral Deck stateroom.

The prize is for two (2) guests and includes: - 10 Night Ancient Lands of the Kimberley expedition aboard Coral Adventurer - Accommodation in a Coral Deck category stateroom - Transfers pre or post-cruise (depending on departure port) - All meals onboard - Selected drinks package available during lunch and dinner service - All daily excursions, lectures and interpretation - All taxes, fees and port charges

How to enter Go to cruisepassenger.com.au/ competitions and answer this simple question: What is the name of Coral Expeditions’ brand new ship?

Terms and conditions apply.

See cruisepassenger.com.au/competitions

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CRUISE NEWS

HERE’S WHAT TO EXPECT

New family facilities Voyager has a new laser-tag course, Battle for Planet Z, in which aliens and robots battle it out to claim the last planet in this make-believe world. The kids’ clubs have also been redesigned.

Waterslides galore There are two new waterslides, Typhoon and Cyclone. Compete with a friend to see who can race down the three-storey high-speed slide the fastest.

REVEALED: VOYAGER'S NEW LOOK FOR OZ One of Australia’s most-loved ships, Royal Caribbean’s Voyager of the Seas, is coming back Down Under, fresh from a $138 million facelift.

Voyager of the Seas is currently sailing short itineraries in Asia, but she will be homeported in Sydney and touring the South Pacific on nine- to 12-night itineraries starting November 30.

“We are thrilled to welcome Voyager back to Sydney where local holidaymakers can step onboard for a holiday of a lifetime with its new bold adventures and exhilarating features," says Susan Bonner, Managing Director for Royal Caribbean International Australia and New Zealand. "Voyager of the Seas offers unforgettable experiences for the whole family to enjoy.”

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Spa and wellness The enhanced Vitality Spa & Fitness centre has been relocated to the aft of the ship.

There is also a new Solarium area, an adults-only retreat for after treatments.

Suites and staterooms There are 72 new inside and balcony staterooms and, for guests in Grand Suite categories and above, a new dedicated Suite Lounge and outdoor area.

There is also a new Diamond Lounge for loyalty members.

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CRUISE NEWS

NEW SHOWS ON THE SEA Get off Broadway and onto the high seas for some of the greatest shows in the world.

These days, cruisers are finding their ships are rivalling Broadway and West End for entertainment.

The creative musical directors of major lines are curating popular productions or creating shows exclusively for certain ships in each line’s fleet.

Here’s a rundown of some of the new productions coming to a cruise near you. / Norwegian Cruise Line Big-scale productions are part of NCL’s appeal, with the line bringing Tony-award winning musicals like Jersey Boys onto the cruise stage. They recently announced a new production for the line’s newest ships, Norwegian

Above: the cast of Six on NCL. Right: King Oliver Creole Jazz Band on Princess.

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Bliss, Breakaway and Getaway. SIX is the musical story of of Henry VIII’s six wives. Divorced, beheaded, died, divorced, beheaded, survived; these Tudor queens take the mic to remix 500 years of historical heartbreak into an exuberant celebration of 21st century girl power.

The show made its debut at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival in 2017 and won the award for Best Off-West End Production in 2019. / Princess Cruises Princess has revealed a line-up of new jazz bars and performances, as well as never-seen-before productions on its latest ships. Sky Princess, due for her inaugural season in October, and Enchanted Princess, slated for 2020 sailings, will have the new production Rock Opera onboard. It features avant garde fashion costumes and a soundtrack spanning classic rock, opera and musical theatre. These beautiful new ships also host musical evenings at the new Take 5 jazz theatre, honouring the roots of jazz, the birth of BeBop, contemporary jazz and iconic female artists. / Regent Seven Seas Seven Seas Splendor will boast four entertainment lounges which she launches in February next year.

The company has employed a decorated list of Broadway choreographers and directors to create a number of productions specifically for this new ship. One is musical Bohemian Soul, about travellers who encounter different cultures on their journey, highlighting an eclectic array of world music and dance.

Ta wi

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SAIL WITH THE WORLD’S LEADING CRUISE LINE. NCL’S FREE AT SEA Up to US2,800 In Overall Value+

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WHY CRUISE NORWEGIAN?

FREESTYLE DINING

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FLEET ENHANCEMENTS

ONBOARD EXPERIENCES

Take your taste buds on a culinary tour with up to 20 dining options and enjoy the freedom to dine whenever and wherever you want.

NCL sets the standard for the best entertainment at sea with awardwinning Broadway shows including Footloose.

Step aboard any of our ships and enjoy an unparalleled level of consistency – from new dining experiences to ship refurbishments.

Indulge in a hot stone massage, sip a cocktail while relaxing by the pool or get your heart racing on the largest race track at sea – it’s up to you.

BOOK TODAY AT NCL.COM.AU | CALL 1300 255 200 | OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT +Free at Sea: Studio and Inside Staterooms choose 1 free offer. Oceanview, Balcony and Mini-Suites choose 2 free offers. The Haven and Suite bookings receive all 5 free offers. Free Beverage package inclusions are subject to change. Shore excursion credit is US$50 per port per stateroom. 3rd and 4th guest sail at a reduced rate only valid on select dates. US$2,800 value is based on all 5 offers when you book a Haven or Suite category stateroom. Value is per stateroom. Offer is subject to change or withdrawal at any time. Offer and combinability with other promotional offers are subject to change at any time per Norwegian Cruise Line’s discretion. Other restrictions may apply. For full terms and conditions, visit ncl.com.au. All rights reserved. Ships’ registry BAHAMAS & UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. ©2019 NCL Corporation Ltd. NCL Australia Pty Ltd. ABN 80 607 578 781.

CRUISE NEWS

Eden to develop cruise port

SUNBED DISPUTE TO END IN COURT

A dispute between German cruisers over reserving poolside loungers turned physical and will be brought before the courts.

The incident occured on a ship sailing the Indian Ocean last year, when a party around the pool meant sunbeds were in high demand.

An older woman claims she had reserved two sunbeds for herself and her 70-year-old husband, but another female passenger put her handbag on one of the ‘reserved’ loungers.

The younger couple claim they had already

saved the sun lounger with a handbag. When the older couple asked if it was free, the younger husband told them it was not.

Regardless of which story is true, according to a preliminary court report, the husbands “engaged in an argument” during which the 70-year-old alleged he suffered injuries.

He is seeking €4,200 to cover “loss of holiday pleasure” and his injuries. Both couples will be called to testify in court, along with a security guard and the defendant’s mother-in-law.

The stunning south coast port of Eden, a popular cruise destination for small ships, has received $44 million to help the town grow its cruise industry.

The money will be used to extend the current port, which will allow for ships of up to 325 metres in length to visit the seafood capital of Australia. The first ship to use the new wharf will be P&O’s Pacific Explorer, scheduled for a September 15 arrival. Another 21 cruise ships are due to visit during the upcoming season.

CROATIA BY PRIVATE YACHT 2020 EXCLUSIVE BICTON TRAVEL CHARTER

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HOSTED HOLIDAY INCLUDES

Flights from Australia* to Venice

Bicton Travel Host^

5nt Slovenia tour including sightseeing and breakfast daily

8nt Croatian yacht cruise onboard MV Queen Eleganza including

Signature experiences and beverages onboard your cruise

Flights from Dubrovnik to Australia*

All transfers, sightseeing and many meals as per itinerary

TOUR HIGHLIGHTS Ljubljana (2nts) • Lake Bled (2nts) • Plitvice Lakes (1nt)

CRUISE HIGHLIGHTS Opatija (overnight) • Krk • Rab (overnight) • Pag • Zadar (overnight) • Kornati Islands • Radošić • Šibenik (overnight) • Krka National Park • Hvar (overnight) • Vis (overnight) • Biševo • Korčula (overnight) • Mljet • Dubrovnik (overnight) PROUDLY WA OWNED & OPERATED T 08 9339 0177 7X WINNER CLIA CRUISE AGENCY OF THE YEAR E journeys@bictontravel.com.au W bictontravel.com.au/exclusive-journeys 3X WINNER AFTA TRAVEL AGENCY OF THE YEAR 14/08/2019 per person twin share including port charges and cruise gratuities, *based on Perth departure, call Prices correct 03/04/2019 for other capital cities. Promotional fares are subject to availability. Flights and accommodation are at the discretion of Bicton Travel. ^Host is subject to minimum numbers. This itinerary is not suitable for guests with limited mobility. Travel insurance is a requirement of travel. Payment by credit card attracts a merchant fee. Full terms and conditions provided at the time of booking.

CRUISE NEWS

Princess calls on Australia Princess Cruises has revealed that the boutique 688-passenger Pacific Princess will be deployed Down Under for four months during the 2020-21 season. During that time, she will make 15 maiden calls, including Stewart Island, Kaikoura and New Plymouth in New Zealand, Gizo in the Soloman Islands and Wewak and Madang in Papua New Guinea. “Pacific Princess was christened in Australia and became a popular favourite amongst Australian cruisers, offering the first premium cruise experience in the region. We can’t wait to welcome her back to our shores and celebrate our 45th anniversary at the same time,” said Princess Cruises senior vice-president of Asia Pacific Stuart Allison.

WINDSTAR’S LOCAL IMMERSION Windstar Cruises is to join the growing number of luxury small-ship lines sailing Australia in 2020/21.

The newly renovated Star Breeze, an all-suite 312-guest ship, will offer a series of six carefully curated “immersive” itineraries to Australia and New Zealand. The journeys will all feature the line's Signature Expeditions – intimate, expedition-style adventures and active enrichment.

A team of onboard expedition leaders will provide in-depth insight of destinations while guiding optional shore excursions, such as a guided hike to Tasmania's scenic Wineglass Bay, kayaking directly off the boat and viewing Phillip Island's penguin parade. There will also be several overnights in exciting ports including Sydney and Wellington. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS

P&O EXPANDS OFFERING Australia’s own line P&O has revealed more itineraries for the 2020/21 season from Brisbane, Adelaide and Melbourne.

They include three new 10-night New Guinea Island Encounter cruises including a visit to Conflict Islands, one of the most remote and beautiful spots in the Coral Sea. There is also a 14-night Bounty Adventure itinerary and 14 three- to four-night short-break cruises; six comedy themed sailings, a 1980s Tribute Cruise and seven cruises to Airlie Beach. Pacific Aria will call Adelaide home for her longest ever cruise season in 2021, with 14 sailings from Adelaide – twice the number offered in 2020 – including three new itineraries.

W his the Bo

Aranui’s new South Pacific itineraries Tahitian cargo cruise line Aranui Cruises has added three South Pacific itineraries for 2021, taking guests to 11 new island destinations on 21 cruises on Aranui 5, including the line’s maiden voyage to the Cook Islands and an expanded Pitcairn itinerary.

Aranui Cruises' inaugural Cook Islands cruise departs September 2021, a 13-day round trip from Papeete sailing past Pointe Venus en route to Aitutaki and Rarotonga and returning via Rurutu, Rapa and Raivavae in the Australs. The popular Pitcairn voyage debuted in 2019 and the revamped cruise through the Tuamotu, Gambier and Pitcairn archipelagoes includes a new stop at Tuamotu atoll Hikueru, an overnight at Adamstown, and a maiden visit to Pitcairn’s pristine Oeno Island.

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Explorer Dream Newcastle departures on hold Dream Cruises is halting sales of its two November 2019 Newcastle departures on Explorer Dream due to biosecurity legislation.

The sailings in question were announced in May and this rare opportunities for locals to start and end a cruise at home was warmly received.

However, Australian Border Force has not yet approved the cruise terminal for first port of entry purposes.

“Partial or full embark or disembark of passengers requires Australian Border Force resources in place, including screening equipment, check-in facilities, baggage clearance equipment and Australian Border Force personnel,” said a Port of Newcastle spokesperson.

Dream Cruises is working with the relevant authorities to resolve the matter.

1

EUROPE

We welcome you to explore Europe, a truly enchanting destination full of history, iconic cities, epic monuments and awe-inspiring natural beauty. From the glittering Mediterranean to medieval Spain and Portugal, the heart of the Bordeaux region, to the majestic Baltic and Northern Isles, there’s no better way to experience it all than onboard a European cruise.

Flights

Cruise

Stay

JUST RELEASED!

Transfers

Great Value

SPAIN, FRANCE & ITALY

BALTIC JEWELS & NORWEGIAN FJORDS

A SPLENDID SPRING

Departing 5 May 2020 15 night fly, cruise & stay holiday Celebrity Cruises Celebrity Infinity

Departing 7 May 2020 23 night fly, cruise & stay holiday Holland America Line Nieuw Statendam

Departing 9 May 2020 13 night fly, cruise & stay holiday Regent Seven Seas Cruises Seven Seas Splendor

Prices from

$5,195pp*

twin share

Prices from

$6,920pp*

twin share

Prices from

$14,295pp*

twin share

*Prices are per person, twin share and are subject to change. Correct as at 22 Aug 2019.

Call the Cruiseco Concierge on 1800 550 320 to find your local Cruiseco Cruise Specialist or visit cruising.com.au

LUXURY CRUISE NEWS

LUXURY DOWN BELOW The latest must-have accessory for expedition ships lets cruisers go deeper than ever.

While Richard Branson’s Virgin has been concentrating on space travel, other cruise operators have spied another “last frontier” – the depths of the oceans. Now, Scenic’s long-awaited sleek expedition yacht Eclipse has taken its inaugural voyage carrying more than just guests. Also onboard is the very latest essential for luxury adventure: a submarine.

The custom-built U-Boat Worx Cruise Submarine 7 can carry six guests to a depth of 200 metres with seating for up to six guests. It has been designed for optimum underwater sightseeing of whales, penguins, seals, walruses and more. Scenic offers a range of submarine excursions for an additional fee, starting at around $360 for 20 minutes. But this isn’t the only submarine plying the waters.

Crystal Esprit, a 62-passenger expedition yacht, has been offering submarine excursions for several years.

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Scenic Eclipse's submarine exploring the Caribbean Sea.

Its $4 million UBoat Worx C-Explorer 3 can descend 300 metres in air-conditioned, Bluetooth-stereo comfort with two guests and a skipper.

According to Erik Hasselman, commercial director of the Netherlands-based U-Boat Worx, being in the sub, which was originally built for scientific research, “is a magic experience”. But it comes with a hefty price tag, with trips starting at around $850.

Scenic and Crystal are soon to be joined by Seabourn. The ultra-luxe expedition line’s Seabourn Venture, scheduled to launch in June 2021, and her yet-to-be-named sister will carry U-Boat Worx Cruise Sub 7 subs especially designed for the line.

The battery-powered vessels go to a depth of 300 metres, carrying six people in two clear acrylic spheres flanking the pilot’s station, mounted on rotating platforms that can turn for best sightlines and uninterrupted views.

The subs will have airconditioning, a Bluetooth stereo system, an underwater video camera, and a side-mounted, six-function manipulator arm capable of lifting up to 32 kilograms. And, of course, a champagne chiller, so guests can toast to their adventure in the deep blue.

LUXURY CRUISE NEWS

Scenic Eclipse arrives at last Ponant’s new itineraries

Cunard’s Taylor cruise Actress Elizabeth Taylor led a famously extravagant lifestyle and her 2011 death left a vast estate. Now, Cunard is giving her fans a rare opportunity to own some of her possessions. Cunard, in partnership with House of Taylor and celebrity auction house Julien’s Auctions, will host a cruise dedicated to the star on Queen Mary 2 from Southampton to New York in October. The onboard exhibition, Property from the Lifestyle of Elizabeth Taylor, will include clothing, art and decor. Guests will be able to bid on items in advance of the general auction in December in Beverly

Luxury French line Ponant has released its 2020/21 schedule, and a huge 37 of the totally 62 departures are new itineraries.

New cruises take guests to exciting destinations in Africa, the Maldives, the Arabian Gulf, India, China, Myanmar, Japan and Tahiti. Highlights include the mysterious Yandang Mountains in China, Islamic art and Waqif Souk in Doha, and the Portuguese colonies of Diu in Goa.

Last month, the world’s newest luxury yacht, Scenic Eclipse, finally embarked on her inaugural voyage – a 13-day discovery itinerary from Reykjavik to Quebec – after several major delays.

“Today is the fruition of many years of planning and work from a large and dedicated team to create a vessel and an experience which has set a brand-new benchmark in ultra-luxury discovery cruising,” said Glen Moroney, Scenic’s chairman and founder, at the launch.

Scenic Eclipse caters for just 228 guests (200 for the polar regions) in 114 all-veranda suites, ranging from 32 square metres to 247 square metres.

She has 10 dining options, the SENSES spa, a gym, two six-guest helicopters, one six-guest submarine, a state-of-the-art theatre, and indoor and outdoor pools. She offers butler service for all guests, and an almost 1:1 guest-to-staff ratio.

Suites started at more than $17,000 for the inaugural voyage. cruisepassenger.com.au/luxury

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RIVER CRUISE NEWS

Top drops on APT APT has announced a new range of premium wines available aboard Aria and Concerto for the line’s Europe river cruises from next year.

The premium wines will be paired with the evening meals on the ships and will reflect the different regions the ships travel through. Guests can taste their way through the different varieties of wine from the Rhône, Rhine and Danube and more. The line already offers a range of included beverages with meals.

Budapest night sailings resume The ban on night sailings past Budapest’s iconic illuminated Parliament House has been lifted, but not all river cruise lines are rushing to get back on the water. The government ban was imposed after a tragic accident in May in which a tourist sightseeing boat and a Viking River Cruises ship collided, resulting in the death of 27 South Korean tourists.

Avalon Waterways and AmaWaterways have chosen not to offer the evening cruises, based on concerns around further risk and liability. Crystal River Cruises has resumed the sailings, following the new rule that requires them to turn further down the river.

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ACTION STATIONS River cruise lines have staff members devoted to keeping cruisers active onboard and off.

While river cruising might be perceived as a sedate form of travel, cruisers are now fitter, healthier and stronger than ever.

They’re climbing mountains, going on long hikes and taking bike rides along their journeys and are demanding more from their holidays. This is where the activity managers come in.

They have different names on different cruise lines, but each ship will have at least one dedicated staff member onboard with a clear mission: to help guests stay active and enjoy their holiday.

/ Evergreen Tours Evergreen Tours have Activity Managers on board seven of their Star-Ships sailing the rivers in Europe. Activity Managers have a number of roles, including coordinating fitness classes, leading shore excursions and even organising the evening entertainment. They will also design and coordinate biking, hiking and canoeing trips.

Don’t worry though – they’ll always pick the route which best suits the group’s ability.

The fitness options onboard include yoga and Pilates classes, aqua aerobics in heated

RIVER CRUISE NEWS

indoor pools and one-mile walks on the open-air Sun Deck track, all coordinated by the onboard fitness experts.

a complimentary yoga class on the Sky Deck, the onboard Adventure Host can make it happen.

Netherlands’ oldest nature reserve, Veluwezoom National Park; and a Belgrade kayak safari in Serbia.

/ Avalon Waterways

/ Crystal Cruises

/ AmaWaterways with APT

All Avalon Waterways European cruises have both a Cruise Director and an Adventure Host – a role the line introduced just this year to help coordinate activities. They can help guests decide what activities they’d like to do and will also lead some of the active shore excursions, while local guides host the remainder of shore excursions. Adventure Hosts help guests with bike hire, advise on which route to take and answer questions about the active excursions. Whether you’re looking for an optional kayaking excursion or

Each Crystal River ship has a Destinations Manager onboard to help guests choose their shore excursions or, for a more customised experience, offer a Design Your Time concierge service that plans private tours. Crystal has also created an Exhilarating Adventures category in their selection of shore excursions, for travellers who are looking for more active exploration and excursions that combine historical and cultural experiences. This includes hiking the Mullerthal trail in Trier; cycling adventures in

AmaWaterways expanded its Wellness Program to go fleetwide in Europe and Southeast Asia this year. The Wellness Program is led by Wellness Hosts who will lead group fitness classes that can be modified to all levels; host lectures on holistic wellness; and guide active shore excursions like hiking, city walking, biking and running. AmaMagna also offers an exclusive Concierge Golf Program that lets avid players spend their holiday on some of the best courses in Europe. rivercruisepassenger.com.au

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Enjoy a six-course fine-dining experience+ at sea from award-winning chef Curtis Stone +Additional charges apply

Experience SHARETM by Curtis Stone onboard Ruby and Sun PrincessÂŽ in Australia this Summer season

Cruise 14 nights from $1,699pp* twin share BOOK NOW! Visit your travel agent | 1300 385 631 | www.princess.com *Fare based on lead interior stateroom on 14 night Australia & New Zealand sailing from Sydney to Auckland, departing 13 Dec 2019 onboard Ruby Princess. Please see Princess.com for full terms & conditions

PC_Brand_090919CP.indd 1

20/08/2019 9:11:46 AM

CruiseReviews INSIDE Sea Princess in PNG 32

Viking Delling in France 38

Azamara Pursuit in Greece 42

Silver Muse’s S.A.L.T initiative 46

A girl in traditional Balinese clothing at a Silver Muse shore excursion.

ons

9:11:46 AM

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SHIP REVIEW: SEA PRINCESS

A REAL ADVENTURE A voyage to Papua New Guinea takes travellers off the tourist trail, to where real adventures still happen, writes Sarah Nicholson.

I

Left: visitors inspect war remnants in Alotau. Right: a local in traditional dress at the cultural centre, Alotau.

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’m balanced on the back seat of a minivan, bouncing across a track that can barely be called a road, open windows providing the only relief to the humid tropical heat, and I couldn’t be happier.

That’s because I’m having a real adventure.

In this age of mass tourism, tramped tourist trails and sanitised shore excursions, I’m spending several hours exploring a corner of the South Pacific that’s beyond the range of most travellers.

Sea Princess has carried me to the northern tip of New Britain, the Papua New Guinean island separating the Solomon and Bismarck Seas, and I’m on an afternoon excursion from the ship to the remote Bita Paka War Cemetery.

Australian soldiers killed during both world wars rest here, including the first Aussie troops to perish after our newly-federated nation joined The Great War, while taking a German wireless station that stood on this site in 1914.

During the 85-kilometre round-trip drive we stop to see tunnels chiselled into the coastal mountains by Japanese forces occupying Rabaul township during WW2 – they used the shafts to hide equipment from Allied planes flying above – and an outdoor museum packed with battlefield artefacts retrieved from the jungle.

When we arrive at Bita Paka there’s time to wander the headstones in this perfectly-manicured garden before a local charged with caring for this peaceful place leads an informal remembrance service.

He tells the soldiers’ story, plays a recording of the Last Post on a cassette player, then reads the Ode of Remembrance, and a fellow passenger with a relative

SHIP REVIEW: SEA PRINCESS

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SHIP REVIEW: SEA PRINCESS

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Princess Cruises VESSEL: Sea Princess STAR RATING: 3+ PASSENGER CAPACITY: 2,016 TOTAL CREW: 850 PASSENGER DECKS: 10 TONNAGE: 77,690 ENTERED SERVICE: 1998 FACILITIES: Restaurants, lounges, bars, theatre, Lotus Spa, gym, sauna, pools, casino, Sanctuary, atrium, library.

BOOKINGS: princess.com

I go ashore at Panasesa Island to swim in water the colour of precious blue jewels.” that served on a nearby battlefield lays a wreath on behalf of these Princess Cruises pilgrims.

Back in the minivan, making the return journey across rough roads washed away by torrents racing down from the mountains during monsoon showers, our group of new friends talk about this forgotten battlefield.

I’m sharing the back seat with a Perth couple embarking on this 11-day voyage to launch a bucket-list quest to see as many foreign battlefields where Australian soldiers fought in the past century as they can, before they get too old to travel.

Their mission was inspired by watching centenary services marking Great War milestones, and this cruise offers an easy way to begin exploring far-away lands for Boomers not used to travelling beyond Bali.

Wartime history is a theme of this return journey from Brisbane – a tour in Milne Bay takes me to the spot where Aussie soldiers stopped Japan’s WW2 advance and turned the tide of the war in the Pacific – but there’s more to sightseeing than stories about bombs and bullets.

In Alotau there’s an excursion to the town market and cultural centre; during our Rabaul stop most passengers venture to the volcanos that destroyed the settlement in 1937 and 1994; and on the Conflict Islands, groups tour the turtle nursery that’s part of a community conservation project.

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Clockwise from above: cruisers enjoy an excusion in Kitava; war remnants in Rabaul; onboard dining in Horizon Court; Sea Princess at sea.

But it’s not all activity; in the Conflict Islands I go ashore at Panasesa Island to swim in water the colour of precious blue jewels, sit in the shade beneath tilting palm trees and stroll a stretch of white sand reaching across the reef.

The itinerary features five consecutive port visits with the hours between sunrise and sunset dedicated to exploring Alotau and Milne Bay, Kiriwina Island, Rabaul, Kitava Island, and the Conflict Islands.

The distance between Brisbane and Papua New Guinea demands four days at sea – two at each end of the voyage – with the hours surrounded by sparkling blue perfect for relaxing.

I see passengers playing cards or doing puzzles in the many lounges dotted around the 11 passenger decks, resting in the sunshine next to the pool, or chinwagging with new pals in the bars and cafes around the atrium.

I’m travelling with my parents and we occupy a suite on Deck 7 that’s just right for this multi-generational escape; the two-room cabin becomes a two-bedroom apartment in the evening when our housekeeper makes up the sofa-bed in the separate sitting area.

The ample rear-facing balcony is our preferred sprawling space and it’s big enough to accommodate loungers ideal for reading and a table that hosts the alfresco meals we order from room service when coming and going from PNG ports.

One room-service dinner arrives as Alotau’s stevedores drop the lines for our departure and we tuck into hamburgers and cold beer as Sea Princess sails east with the descending darkness leaving dots of light as the only evidence of coastal villages.

SHIP REVIEW: SEA PRINCESS We request a visit from room-service staff at least once a day; on mornings there’s a shore excursion in our schedule we have breakfast at home to avoid the rush and late lunches are perfect on lazy days at sea.

When we do venture out to dine we linger in Horizon Court at breakfast to graze on the buffet, enjoy elegant dinners in Traviata Dining Room and make reservations in Steakhouse several nights to savour the menu and service in the ship’s scenic specialty restaurant.

Sea Princess isn’t a new vessel – she was launched from Italy’s Fincantieri shipyard in 1998 – but Princess Cruises looks after the boat, which carries 2,000 passengers in 1,008 staterooms, and the most recent refit was in November 2017.

And while she doesn’t promise the long list of fun-park features seen aboard modern mega-ships she is perfectly suited to sailing the South Pacific with an adults-only retreat called The Sanctuary, the Lotus Spa for pampering treatments, and lots of deck space for tropical sun chasing.

And then there are those smiling local guides waiting at the gangplank when she docks in remote locations to take travellers on adventures far from the tourist trail.

> The verdict

HIGHS: Comfortable ship in a fascinating part of the planet, a good range of shore excursions, the New Zealand Natural Ice Cream creations, efficient embarkation and disembarkation.

LOWS: Not many specialty restaurants, food is good but menus don’t hold much interest for foodies, Horizon Court is busy during the breakfast rush.

BEST FOR: Travellers looking to stray from the tourist trail, especially those interested in history that don’t mind sacrificing creature comforts for a few hours.

cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: VIKING DELLING

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SHIP REVIEW: VIKING DELLING

Bon AppĂŠtit River cruisers are booking trips to France in record numbers, thanks to the rise of immersive food and wine experiences. Peter Lynch takes his tastebuds on a trip along the RhĂ´ne.

cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: VIKING DELLING

C

hef Cedric Bruyere is not a happy man. My fougasse is not to his liking. His usually affable Gallic charm is giving way to signs of frustration. “You have far too much ’erbs – it is way too moist,” he declares, shrugging his shoulders as only a French chef can. “It will never cook!”

Now, I admit my attempts at making the leaf-shaped bread of Provence may not be up to the standards of Le Meilleur Pâtissier, the wildly successful French equivalent of The Great British Bake Off. And yes, the dark dough certainly packs a herbal punch.

But when I serve it up with a dollop of brie aboard Viking Delling later, my fellow travellers declare it “tres bon!” And my profiteroles vanish off the plate, so they must be a hit as well.

We are sitting around an enormous table on the first floor of a 12th-century mansion in Avignon, southern France; nine culinary explorers keen to learn how the French stay so connected to their food.

We have just visited the famous Les Halles market, where the tantilising aromas of cheese, charcuterie and pastries went right to our heads, and our guide is explaining the extraordinary harmony between the produce, the wine and the way it is served. Or is it just an excuse for delicious Gallic gluttony?

Fuelled by its ability to deliver great food and wine, history and amazing unspoilt countryside, France is making a remarkable rise to the top of many river cruisers’ wish lists, and I’m beginning to see why.

Our journey to the table of Maison de Fogasses began three days ago when we boarded Viking Delling, one of

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the famed Viking longships, in Avignon. We are in for a culinary journey through some of France’s best food and wine regions, and the 180 American, Australian and British guests are already licking their lips.

Viking’s longships are the staple that have created the biggest river fleet in the world. Filled with light, bright Scandinavian charm and adhering to Viking’s mantra of “the thinking person’s cruise line”, there are no kids, no casinos and no hidden charges.

The food is good and often locally sourced, wine is included at lunch and dinner, and the staff are polished and friendly. Our tour leader, Mia Drihem, is a proud Provence native who loves to show off the region.

Ms Drihem believes the rise of French river cruising is all about gastronomy and the appeal of not having to drive through France to experience it. Viking’s pre- and post-cruise add-on tours make a brilliant and relaxing two-week package.

Australians are out in force when we arrive in Avignon after a short drive from Marseilles Airport, board Delling and take a brisk introductory walk.

Overnight, the ship will cruise to Arles, just 40 kilometres down the Rhône.

The 800-kilometre river flows from the Swiss Alps and has cut through the French countryside to create the Rhône Valley, a fertile area famous for sun-baked fields and Mistral winds, fine wine, cheese and truffles.

The Rhone’s currents are notorious, forcing the French government to build a series of locks that now preserve the waterway from the fluctuations that have been the curse of cruising rivers elsewhere.

Clockwise from below: Viking Delling arrives in Avignon; Maison de Fogasses’ owner Corinne Guyon and Chef Cedric; Viviers on the Rhône.

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Viking River Cruises VESSEL: Viking Delling STAR RATING: 4 star PASSENGER CAPACITY: 190 TOTAL CREW: 52 PASSENGER DECKS: 3 TONNAGE: 2650 ENTERED SERVICE: 2014 FACILITIES: Two eateries, bar, library, sun deck, golf putting, entertainment, included shore excursions, Wi-Fi, movies on demand, 24-hour speciality coffees, bottled water, fridge and stateroom steward.

BOOKINGS: See vikingrivercruises.com.au

Chef Cedric’s Fougasse A quintessential accompaniment to every Provençal meal, fougasse is a flat bread which is often flavoured with herbs and spices. It’s delicious, and this recipe from Chef Cedric is a classic.

Ingredients

For the garnish

500g flour 1 tsp baking powder 1 tsp salt 6 tsp mixed herbs (dried rosemary, thyme, sage) 1 tbsp olive oil 2 whole eggs 4 tbsp water 250g pitted olives

2 eggs 1 tsp coarse salt 1 tsp finely chopped rosemary 1 tsp finely chopped thyme Makes 12 fougasses

Cooking instructions 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. 2. Combine flour, baking powder, salt and herbs in a food mixer.

3. Turn off the mixer and add the olive oil, eggs and water.

4. Mix the wet and dry ingredients on your slowest setting until the mixture is combined, elastic and smooth.

5. Add the olives to the mixture and incorporate evenly.

6. Form the mixture into 12 balls, weighing 80 grams each.

7. Flour the surface of your table before flattening the dough.

8. Shape each dough ball using your hands till they are roughly 12cm in width, 20cm in length and 2cm thick.

9. Using a knife, cut diagonal slits down each side of the dough, and one down the centre.

10. Beat the eggs in a bowl and brush it over the dough with a pastry brush. Sprinkle with herbs and salt before placing in the oven.

11. Cook the fougasse in the oven for about 10 minutes or until golden brown. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: VIKING DELLING The Romans used the river to fortify their garrisons, and have left an indelible footprint of engineering marvels. The amazing triple-deck aquaduct bridge Pont du Gard, north of Arles, is a case in point.

For a small provincial town, Arles has a vivid history.

Its fields of sunflowers inspired Van Gogh. It is also the town where he famously cut off his ear and gave it to a prostitute after suffering a breakdown. The café where he lived is painted a vivid yellow in reverence, and there is a lovely secluded garden where he had a studio.

During our evening cruise back to Avignon, we are treated to a French cheese talk and tasting. We have more time to take in the sights, so as well as our cooking class, we view the Pont d’Avignon, a bridge made famous by being destroyed in floods so many times it has now been left unrepaired. The Palace of the Popes, built when Rome was abandoned by Catholic leaders during the 14th century, is another amazing landmark.

But perhaps for those seeking to test their palates, a tour of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, an area that produces arguably some of the best red wines in the world, has more to offer.

The Rhône is renowned for grenache and shiraz grapes, producing fruity reds that go well with delicious and hearty French meals like coq au vin.

By day there’s a tour of the lavender fields which so often feature on postcards and tonight, Delling chef Frixos Tsapopoulos (yes, he’s Greek) cooks up a Provençale buffet.

It’s a true feast, served with local wine. There is duck, lamb, chicken, eggplant, pear tarte Tatin and chocolate and strawberries. Oh, and someone has thoughtfully provided us with a wonderful herb fougasse. Who needs a Michelin star?

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Viking Delling offers two food venues; the main dining room has floor-to-ceiling windows, while the Aquavit Terrace has outdoor tables at the front of the ship, and food is the same at both. We opt for the river views most lunchtimes, but the dining room is where you get the best chance to meet some of our international fellow travellers. You just plonk yourself down and start a conversation. Donald Trump with the Americans and Boris Johnson with the Brits; either one will get a reaction.

We wake up in Viviers, a 5th-century Roman settlement with cobblestone streets and a magnificent cathedral, then it’s off to Tournon and a steam train ride, which, we are told, is a favourite among Australian cruisers. At the top of the hill, a café and farmers’ market await with local fruits and delicious pastries made from local honey.

Our final stop is Lyon, the climax of our journey. We’re excited because we’ve booked a Michelin-starred restaurant in town for dinner, and we are keen to sample the best France’s third-largest city has to offer.

Lyon is famous for sausages – think smoky pork with pistachios served on a bed of mashed potatoes with a cream sauce – brochette with foie gras, coq au vin, tripe and onions, and salade Lyonnaise. Oh, and it’s home to marrons glacés and weirdly coloured macarons.

Next day, our last, we take a tour of the Château des Ravatys for wine tasting. The region of Beaujolais is every bit as beautiful as the red wine is tasty.

Although it’s only been eight days, we’ve seen and tasted our way through many of the highlights of this great region. And yet, we’ve hardly felt the strain. Viking Delling, with its crew of 52, has felt like home, and the Aquavit Terrace our local wine bar.

Clockwise from right: Pont du Gard; Cruise Passenger editorin-chief Peter Lynch scooting in Lyon; busking in Avignon; the café made famous by Van Gogh.

SHIP REVIEW: VIKING DELLING

> The verdict

HIGHS: Light, bright and airy ship with a fabulous backdrop of French history, food and wine.

The inclusions and itinerary make this a very easy cruise to love.

LOWS: We would have liked to spend more time trying local delicacies – but that was mostly due to our own laziness and the tempting ship’s galley.

BEST FOR: Just about anyone of any ability, but the over 50s will be most comfortable with the clientele of mainly Americans.

Scoot to the sights

•

Our cruise aboard Viking Delling came with an exciting revelation. Instead of the usual lollipop tour, I spend my day in Lyon zipping around the streets at 15 kilometres per hour armed with nothing more than a map from reception.

I’m riding a rented Lime scooter, much like the razor scooter you bought the kids in the early noughties – except it’s adult sized and electric.

It’s a liberating experience. You can go wherever you want for just €1 to unlock and €0.77 cents for 10 minutes.

Once you arrive at, say, the old town district, you can park your scooter, take a quick snap in the Lime app and stroll around shops and restaurants. Want to get back to the ship?

Just pick up another scooter!

They are not for everyone. You do need a sense of balance, and a helmet. But for sheer liberation, do like the locals do.

Download the Lime app from the App Store. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: AZAMARA PURSUIT

Above: Vlacherna Monastery, Corfu.

Right: Azamara Pursuit anchored off Mykonos.

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+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Azamara VESSEL: Azamara Pursuit PASSENGER CAPACITY: 702 TOTAL CREW: 408 PASSENGER DECKS: 8 TONNAGE: 30,277 ENTERED SERVICE: 2001 REFURBISHED: 2018 FACILITIES: Pool deck, spa, gym, shuffleboard court, 7 dining venues including two specialty restaurants, cabaret lounge and luxury spa suites.

BOOKINGS: See azamara.com

SHIP REVIEW: AZAMARA PURSUIT

Get him to the Greek What better way to enjoy a Mediterranean summer than by sailing the Greek islands in the sun?

Brian Johnston sets off.

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he Greek islands have landscapes from the dawn of time, pared down to the basic elements of sea, rock and pure colour. The rock is sun-frazzled brown, but little valleys are silver with olive trees and pop with the brightness of lemons. Hills are stitched together with drystone walls. Windmills are white, church domes blue, the window frames of houses jaunty green and red. Chapel interiors glimmer gold. Where tourists congregate, walls are draped with colourful T-shirts like jaunty banners hung in a knight’s hall.

It’s thrilling in such an ageless landscape to sail out of Piraeus, Athens’ port, and see the Acropolis loom in the background, just as the ancient Greeks would have seen it as they sailed away. I’m on a 10-night Greece Intensive cruise with Azamara Club Cruises, and rather excited. Lots of history

and philosophy were dreamed up here, around the edge of the Aegean and on its islands. We’ll be sailing through a tumble of Greek ruins, Byzantine and Ottoman buildings and Venetian forts. In between, there’ll be swimming in turquoise seas and cocktails at sunsets framed by windmills.

Azamara Pursuit is just the ship for cruising the Greek Islands. It’s mid-sized and carries 702 passengers, allowing it to sail to smaller islands and bays, and get closer than larger ships to some of the old towns and on-shore destinations. It’s small enough to feel intimate and is at times convivial, but large enough that I’m never short of quiet relaxation corners. The entire ship underwent refurbishment before Azamara launched it in mid 2018, and it has an understated, contemporary elegance that I find appealing. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: AZAMARA PURSUIT

Our first stop, Spetses, flies under the radar, a retreat for posh Athenians rather than budget-airline tourists.”

This is a pleasant, unfussy, uncluttered cruise ship on which to sail through minimalist landscapes.

We have a varied sample of Greek islands on this cruise. Our first stop, Spetses, flies under the radar, a retreat for posh Athenians rather than budget-airline tourists. Traffic is banned from town, and only the clip-clop of horse carriages competes with the click of backgammon pieces from cafés, and the shrieks of local kids on a parasol-pretty promenade. Next day, in contrast, is Mykonos, famed for its hedonistic beaches and nightlife, which attracts international jetsetters like moths. It’s crowded, but still a place of sea views and sugar-cube houses swathed in pink bougainvillea.

Rhodes is our date with history. We sail into the harbour beneath the fortified walls of the Knights of St John. Behind is one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval towns, culminating in the Palace of the Grand Master where, that evening, we have an included AzAmazing Evening. Staff in period costume light the way with flaming torches as we settle in for a tribute to Rhodes’ long history, sung by a tenor and soprano.

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SHIP REVIEW: AZAMARA PURSUIT

Clockwise from left: Spetses; souvenir shopping on Mykonos; a lobster dish served onboard Azamara Pursuit; Mykonos.

> The verdict

HIGHS: Azamara Pursuit doesn’t match true luxury ships, but does a superb job at providing a luxury feel and excellent service levels without the eye-watering price tag.

Its relatively nimble size allows it to dock close to the on-shore action.

LOWS: Although Azamara Pursuit was entirely refurbished in 2018 and feels like a new ship, cabins are compact and bathrooms are cramped going by the standards of newly built luxury vessels.

BEST FOR: Casual, destinationoriented travellers who are keen to explore, and wider in age-group range than you might expect. There are some families in this destination, although no specific kids’ amenities.

I like the variety on this cruise. One day, we’re exploring a tiny island off Crete that once housed a leper colony, another day we’re in Zakynthos admiring stunning clifftop vistas that plunge to peacock-blue seas. In Corfu, there’s a splendid Venetian-era old town, sumptuous beaches and bays decorated with island chapels.

Azamara offers a remarkable range of shore excursions in each destination, too. In Corfu alone, there are options for a four-wheel drive, a visit to Achilleion Palace museum with its curator, a culinary walk, or just a day at the beach. Excursions elsewhere cover hiking, food experiences, an olive-oil estate, encounters with sommeliers and ceramicists, visits to vineyards and marine parks, and mosaic- and pottery-making lessons.

Azamara’s destination focus attracts guests eager to be off the ship and exploring for much of the day, and sometimes into the evening too. In consequence, Azamara Pursuit is quieter than other cruise ships in its onboard entertainments, which are confined to the likes of trivia competitions, seminars, fitness classes and, in the evening, theatre shows. Still, the main pool deck is a well-used area thanks to its decent-sized pool, two hot tubs, abundant deck chairs and live music – and really goes off on Azamara’s fabled White Night, a terrific outdoor barbecue buffet with life music and dancing.

For a mid-size ship, Azamara Pursuit does very well on the food front, with numerous dining options. Main restaurant Discoveries offers a good à la carte selection of world cuisine, The Patio pool grill does steaks and ribs as well as burgers, while buffet venue Windows Café offers a different range of food every day – including a very welcome Greek night. There’s an additional charge for the two speciality restaurants, the only-okay Prime C and the very good Aqualina. The latter is one of the best Italian restaurants at sea, low on hokey Italian themes and overworked food, and big on flavours, fresh ingredients and satisfying traditional dishes.

Azamara Pursuit is a lovely ship on which to linger, and not just in its dining spaces. The Living Room is a sun-soaked relaxation zone, expansive enough to serve as a games room, bar and observation lounge. Everpopular Mosaic Café is a gathering spot for those after properly made coffee, The Den a convivial centre-ship space for evening drinks, with a marble bar and nestleworthy armchairs. The tranquil Drawing Room is my favourite: the ship’s library with Georgian-style elegance under ceiling frescoes depicting exotic birds.

On the ninth day of our cruise, the top deck is where everyone wants to be for our sail into Kotor. We’ve left Greece behind and Montenegro looms. It takes a couple of hours to sail into port through stunning bays that at times narrow to defiles between rugged mountains. It’s one of cruising’s best port arrivals, pinning us all on deck in astonishment. I’m glad I’ve signed up for a shore excursion that explores this magnificent bay from the perspective of the shoreline too, and that includes a visit to the tiny island-church of Our Lady of the Rocks, afloat off pretty baroque-era Perast town. It’s a splendid finale to a great cruise. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: SILVER MUSE

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Silversea VESSEL: Silver Muse PASSENGER CAPACITY: 596 TOTAL CREW: 411 PASSENGER DECKS: 8 TONNAGE: 40,700 ENTERED SERVICE: 2017 FACILITIES: All-suite ship, eight dining venues, panorama lounge, Connoisseur’s Corner to enjoy a cognac, casino, Sky deck with large swimming pool, spa and gym.

BOOKINGS: See silversea.com

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SHIP REVIEW: SILVER MUSE

LET’S DO

L.U.N.C.H.

Silversea’s new S.A.L.T. initiative gets under the skin of local cuisine.

Becky Wiggins gets a sneak tasting in the Philippines and Singapore.

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here’s a tiny burger on the plate in front of me. I’m told to pop it straight into my mouth. Surprisingly, it melts immediately. It’s not actually a burger, but a delightful, tomato-scented meringue, filling my mouth with tantalising flavours. It’s sweet, but salty; tart, acidic, then earthy… I’m in foodie heaven.

We’re experiencing a multi-course tasting menu at Toyo Eatery in Manila, awarded the Miele One to Watch Award by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2018. Course after course of incredibly creative flavour combinations are placed in front of us: a cassava chip with delicate sea urchin and sweet potato; a tiny squid stuffed with hot, mustardy rice and glazed with ginger, onion, garlic and tomato; mackerel cured with coconut vinegar, served with zingy pickled cucumber.

Dessert is a tantalising smoked coconut cream with reduced coconut vinegar, candied cashews and local mango. Our culinary journey has started on a high.

From Toyo Eatery, we head to our home for the next week, Silversea’s elegant Silver Muse. After an exhilarating drive through the crazy Manila traffic, we spot her nestled serenely in glittering Manila Bay. We’re welcomed with chilled champagne and I’m shown to my suite by a butler in tails, where we discuss my choice of toiletries (Ortigia), my favourite tipple (gin), and even whether I’d like him to unpack my suitcase (aware of the shocking mess inside, I politely decline).

I wander, champagne in hand and discover a well-appointed bathroom with a full-sized bath and corner shower, a dressing room with plenty of drawer and hanging space, and a bedroom with a huge mirror masquerading as a TV screen.

Below: A local man shows off his produce in Bali.

There’s also a lounge area with a sofa, dressing table space and a table holding chilled champagne on ice.

Silversea Cruises recently announced a brand new culinary experience: S.A.L.T. (Sea And Land Taste), which will debut on its brand new ship Silver Moon, coming in August 2020. Lucky me, I’ve been invited to experience an exclusive, specially curated preview.

On our first evening, we dine in opulent, Asian-fusion themed Indochine, one of eight restaurants on board, where local Filipino dishes have been added to the menu as part of our S.A.L.T. experience. It includes spicy sinigang soup and fragrant, vinegary chicken adobo.

We get the chance to meet our convivial host: multi award-winning journalist and former editor-in-chief of Saveur magazine Adam Sachs.

As with many cruise lines, Silversea is facing a change of demographic, and with this younger audience comes a challenge to connect the generations.

Sachs explains that guests on board Silver Moon (and Silver Dawn, scheduled to debut in 2021) will be able to dip in and out of an array of specially curated S.A.L.T. experiences.

The dedicated S.A.L.T. Lab (the space currently occupied by speciality French restaurant La Dame, which will be relocated next to the Arts Café) will provide the perfect setting for guests to explore the cuisine of their destination through cookery classes and lectures. The S.A.L.T. bar will serve local spirits, beers, wines and juices.

We first dock bright and early at the beautiful island of Coron in the Philippines, stepping blinking out into the sunshine, dazzled by the otherworldly cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: SILVER MUSE

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SHIP REVIEW: SILVER MUSE jade colour of the water. We join our first guest-host, Filipino food expert and New York restaurateur Nicole Ponseca, and our local guide, Clang.

The colourful ex-military jeepneys take us to the harbour where we climb on board local banca outrigger boats and, after a few technical difficulties (ours refuses to start), we’re soon skimming over the water to the fishing village of Lajala. Here, we receive a warm welcome from the children of the Tagbanwa tribe, descendants of the original inhabitants of the Philippines.

We’re treated to a show-and-tell of the foods that the locals eat and I taste the most fragrant mango I’ve ever eaten, alongside the weirdly astringent fruit of the cashew, which magically seems to suck every last bit of moisture from your mouth while still managing to taste completely delicious.

Back on our bancas, we sail into a hidden cove to buy fresh coconuts, opened by a lady with the most terrifying knife skills, before hiking up steep stone steps and down the other side.

Our last stop comes courtesy of wonderful little motorcycle sidecar taxis. We zip up into the mountains to a local restaurant, the Funny Lion, for an incredible kamayan feast: the table is groaning with mountains of food: stuffed squid, local fish, roast chicken, huge shrimp, sticky rice, salted eggs and local seaweed that’s like teeny green bunches of grapes, delicious dipped into a savoury, garlicky soy vinegar. Our host gives us a quick lesson on eating with your fingers (it’s not as straightforward as you’d think) and we tuck in.

We spend the next day listening to Ponseca’s fascinating lecture on the cultural influences on Filipino food, which include the obvious (Spanish) and the less obvious (Greek).

We taste different vinegars and fermented shrimp and fish pastes, and watch as Ponseca prepares kinilaw, a fermented fish and rice dish (bit of an acquired taste, that one), and a moreish classic Filipino adobo Our next port of call is Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, Malaysia. Piling into minivans, we head to local institution the Seng Hing Coffee Shop for a traditional breakfast: spicy Sabah-style tom yum, laksa made with evaporated milk, fried noodles with rice wine, and kon loh mee with roasted pork and egg rolls. It’s the most delicious feast and such fun to sit among the locals as they chat over their breakfast.

Our next stop is high in the mountains, and the engines in our little vans strain as we wind through the lush hillside to Kokol Haven, a stunning resort where we’re warmly welcomed with lemongrass juice.

After a fascinating demonstration of a local curry dish, rich with coconut milk, garlic and curry leaves, we’re set

Left: food truck workers from Local Parts Butchers by Locavore in Ubud; fresh local ingredients in Bali.

Below: a girl prepares street food in Saba.

to work making traditional local dishes: fragrant pumpkin with cucumber shoots, cooked in coconut milk and seasoned with dried, crushed shrimp; a delicious shrimp dish cooked with tamarind and turmeric that leaves us all stained orange; and a tangy spiced fish dish.

After all our hard work, we’re treated to a feast, with both the dishes that we’ve cooked and more traditional local food, including a sago pudding in coconut milk, sweetened with palm sugar.

As Silver Muse powers on to Singapore, we’re joined by our next host, food writer and owner of supper club FatFuku (literally ‘fat luck’). Annette Tan is in the teppanyaki restaurant, Kaiseki, for a chat about Singaporean food and a demonstration of her family’s own Peranakan chicken curry, often eaten in Singapore with chunks of baguette, along with delicate, lacy roti jala and fried bee hoon (vermicelli noodles with spongy sliced fishcakes).

Singapore is a melting pot of cultural influences, informed by its colonial past (hence the popularity of afternoon tea), and Tan is on hand to introduce us to some delicious sweet treats: kueh bingka made with cassava; chiffon cake infused with pandan leaves; and kueh ko swee, a little like squares of sweet green blancmange covered in coconut. It’s all delicious.

By the time we dock in Singapore, we’ve learnt how the hawker centres were created when street food vendors were moved to a regulated, covered area. The centres are so popular there’s one every five square kilometres – and we now know exactly what to look for.

Our final lunch, on the most beautifully dressed table I’ve ever seen, features local lamb satay skewers with pineapple sauce, traditional Peranakan duck soup, our nasi ulam rice dish, and chicken cooked with buah keluak – a classic dish made with a poisonous seed that can kill if not prepared correctly.

I board the plane carrying an extra kilo (and I don’t mean in my hand luggage), an understanding of the culture and cuisine of the areas that we’ve visited, and an arsenal of recipes to try at home.

> The verdict

HIGHS: A tailor-made experience designed to show off local cuisines. The all-suite, butler service experience and free-flowing champagne.

LOWS: Full-on days including hiking and bumpy motorcycle rickshaw rides which might not be suited to everyone.

BEST FOR: Adventurous foodies with a taste for the exotic willing to get under the skin of their destination.

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Sustainability What’s being done.

INSIDE

52 The issues facing travellers today.

54 What are lines doing to protect the oceans?

56 Hurtigruten’s new ship is the future of cruising.

62 Reduce overtourism with destination swaps.

Read about National Geographic photographerJason Edwards’ work on page 10 of our Adventure insert.

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SUSTAINABILITY: THE ISSUES

K E E PI N G IT REAL With great travel comes great responsibility, writes Peter Lynch.

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SUSTAINABILITY: THE ISSUES

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Christmas iguana and Sally Lightfoot crabs in the Galapagos.

ravel is one of the world’s biggest growth industries. As our society has become richer, our search for unique and authentic experiences has evolved into an obsession, generating enormous revenues and millions of jobs.

The cruise segment is one of the fastest growing, with 30 million passengers expected by 2020. It is still a minnow compared to many other forms of leisure travel. In Australia, it represents just five per cent of tourism.

But like it or not, the increasing popularity of travel means cruise lines have had to think long and hard about what impact the popularity of their products is having on the world .

The good news is that much is being done.

Cruise chiefs are working more than most to tackle the two big challenges of our age: climate change and overtourism.

Onboard life is already adapting. Single-use plastics are out, and food is being locally sourced more often. Cruise ships now recycle 60 per cent more waste per passenger than people on shore.

Collectively, the industry is working to dramatically reduce its carbon footprint.

“Just over six months ago, CLIA announced an historic global cruise industry commitment to reduce the rate of carbon emissions across the industry fleet by 40 per cent by 2030,” says Joel Katz, Managing Director of CLIA Australasia.

This large reduction is possible in part thanks to a strong industry-wide uptake of advances like battery technology, alternative cleaner fuels and more efficient ship design.

The need to predict, manage and develop new strategies to deal with increased tourism is almost as important as the work being done to change behaviour and stop waste.

In popular destinations, cruise industry leaders are working with governments and residents to ensure ships and their passengers cause as little disruption as possible.

Take the Galapagos, one of the most fascinating and ecologically fragile parts of the world. Almost every cruise line would like to include this special place on its itineraries, but Ecuadorian government regulations around visitor numbers are extremely strict.

In Amsterdam, a popular river and ocean destination, the government is working to attract fewer but ‘better quality’ tourists.

Marketing downplays overcrowded attractions like the Red Light District, and focuses on cultural institutions and areas outside the city.

Other countries such as New Zealand have opted for taxing tourists to help return something to local coffers.

Cruise industry leaders feel, rightly in many

cases, that they are unfairly singled out because their ships are so visible, but cruising represents just 2 per cent of world tourism and 1 per cent of shipping.

Martin Griffiths from CLIA maintains that in headline-grabbing problematic tourist spots like Venice, Dubrovnik and Barcelona, cruise ships only account for 5 per cent of visitors.

“So even if we were to take cruising away from those destinations, it really wouldn’t address a lot of the overtourism problems,” he told CNN Travel in a recent interview.

And cruise tourism is probably the easiest to plan for. Ships book port calls years in advance, so everyone knows they are coming. Even where passengers go on shore is simple to predict, given that excursions are also pre booked.

No one should be surprised at how many cruise ships arrive in Barcelona. Or in Sydney, for that matter. But few destinations prepare or have plans in place to manage what is a very important part of their economies.

The problems in Venice, for instance, are predictable and can fixed over time. Cruise lines are urging the government to prepare infrastructure so they don’t sail into the canals, and legislate where the big ships can go.

With the issues front-page news, there is more impetus than ever to conquer political inertia and find sustainable solutions. Now there is a will, there will certainly be a way.

Flora and Fauna

•

One of the world’s newest expedition vessels is the Galapagos-bound Celebrity Flora. But she’s more than just a cruse ship – she will also be used as an advanced research ship. Flora will be equipped with oceanographic research equipment that was developed by the University of Miami’s Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science. She will track and map the Galapagos’ sea-surface temperatures and gather data to predict the weather phenomena El Niño and La Niña, and help scientists understand global weather change and ocean acidification. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SUSTAINABILITY: THE ISSUES

“W

e all can do our bit to slow down global warming,” Sir David Attenborough urged in his most recent BBC documentary, Climate Change: The Facts.

The cruise industry is taking that message to heart and making big changes so we can balance helping the environment with enjoying a holiday.

Here are six things cruise lines are doing to make your travel more sustainable.

/ LNG ships AIDA Cruises’ AIDAnova, the world’s first liquefied natural gas-powered (LNG) cruise ship, made her debut last year and 26 more LNG powered ships are due in the next few years. In 2020, Iona will join P&O Cruises and Carnival Cruises will get Mardi Gras; the following year, AIDA, Ponant, Viking Ocean Cruises, Costa, Disney Cruise Line will all launch LNG-powered vessels. Royal Caribbean also has three LNG-powered ships on order to form the line’s new Icon-class, with the first due in 2022 . / Alternative energy Norwegian brand Hurtigruten made maritime history when it debuted Roald Amundsen, the first expedition cruise ship in the world that can sail on battery power. In delicate regions, such as polar areas, the ship will be able to shut down the engines and run silently on battery power for up to 60 minutes. Her sister ship Fridtjof Nansen, due this year, will have twice the battery capacity, and future additions to the fleet will be powered with biogas generated from organic waste like dead fish. / Shore Power With ships spending more time in port, cruise lines are designing more of their fleet to run on shore power. AIDA Cruises are working with regional governments to build a shore power facility in the ports of Kiel and Rostock by 2020. “By using shore power from renewable energy sources while the ships are in port, emissions can be virtually reduced to zero,” says the line. By early 2023, 94 per cent of AIDA’s fleet will be running on LNG or utilising green shore power.

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How cruise lines are trying to save our seas

Right: AIDAnova.

SUSTAINABILITY: THE ISSUES

Ten ways you can tread more lightly So you want to do your bit for sustainability? Great! Here are ten easy ways to start.

1

Bring your own water bottle and get free refills in the dining room or gym.

2

Reuse towels by hanging them up in your bathroom as a sign that they’re still clean.

3

Bring your own shopping tote so you don’t have to use single-use plastic bags.

4

Go on sustainable shore excursions that are kind to the environment or support local communities.

5

Bring a reusable metal or silicone straw if you must have one. They’re easy to get and take up no space in your luggage.

6

/ Saving energy Virgin Voyages is partnering with Norwegian company Scanship to bring its new wasteto-energy technology onboard. The technology uses microwaves to transform carbon-based waste into clean energy. The line will be integrating Scanship’s advanced techn with waste heat recovery technology (also widely employed on other lines) to generate green energy for the ship. / Single-use plastics Many lines have already gotten rid of plastic straws and stirrers; Royal Caribbean, among others, has also implemented a “straw on request” policy that will see a paper straw provided only to guests who ask. By 2020, the line will also be reducing other singleuse plastics like condiment packets, cups

and bags. It is estimated that the removal of single-use plastic straws will stop 50 million of them from entering the waste stream each year. Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas are taking it a step further, and will be the first cruise lines to eliminate plastic water bottles by the end of this year.

/ Thoughtful shore excursions Carnival Australia is working with a number of local shore-excursion partners including Indigenous tourism operators, and Shene Estate, a distillery near Hobart that is helping to fund the restoration of one of Tasmania’s most historic colonial-era properties. Royal Caribbean’s Caring Discovery range of shore excursions includes visits to reptile rescue farms, beach clean ups and volunteer stints at soup kitchens.

Turn off the lights and air conditioner every time you leave your cabin – don’t leave a plastic card in the lock to keep it going while you’re out.

7 8

Bring your own biodegradable bodywash.

Carry biodegradable wet wipes for when you’re out and about, and avoid flushing them.

9

Choose food you know has been ethically sourced and locally produced. If that’s not an option on the menu, ask why not.

10

Respect local people and, where possible, spread the wealth. Buy locally produced souvenirs, snack and services so traders can stay in business and continue to welcome cruise passengers. cruisepassenger.com.au

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BRAVE NEW WORLD 56

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Hurtigruten’s newest ship offers hope for the next generation of cruisers.

Barry Stone is on board.

SUSTAINABILITY: HURTIGRUTEN

Roald Amundsen navigating Tracy Arm fjord in Alaska.

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ou may have seen it: a photograph of two massive cruise ships passing each other as they navigate the narrow Norwegian fjords. It could be perceived as a triumph of man’s engineering capabilities – two mighty vessels going to one of the most remote corners of the world. But what cannot be ignored in the photo is the plumes of black smoke spewing out of the ships’ stacks.

In today’s age, with a warming world, there is mounting pressure on the cruise industry to set new environmental and sustainability standards. At the forefront of this is Hurtigruten, the Norwegian cruise line which started life out as a postal service between central Norway and northern towns like Hammerfest.

What was once a cargo and ferry company, Hurtigruten has now built the first ever hybrid-powered ship, MS Roald Amundsen.

It isn’t hyperbole to say that this ship, completed in early 2019 with its 264 cabins and suites, three restaurants and passenger capacity of 530, is the future of cruising. Its approach to waste, its recycling technology, its use of a lighter diesel fuel, even its patented wave-piercing bow designed to break through metrethick ice for smoother sailing, they’re all part of the equation. But at its core, way below passenger decks, is a room about the size of a double garage and as sterile as a hospital theatre. It’s the reason for all the excitement that this 20,889-tonne ship is generating: the battery room. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SUSTAINABILITY: HURTIGRUTEN Roald Amundsen has cutting-edge hybrid technology, powered by a combination of four diesel-fuelled generators and high-tech lithium-ion batteries, the same kind of battery you have in your smartphone.

There are two battery rooms on board but currently only one wall of batteries has been installed. This was a deliberate decision; battery technology is evolving so rapidly, the company will be able to take advantage of the increased efficiency of the next generation of batteries when they fill the next wall. Roald Amundsen’s sister ship, MS Fridtjof Nansen, due 2020, will be launched with even more batteries and power.

Roald Amundsen, for the moment, is akin to a floating laboratory as engineer Jonny Johnson experiments with peak shaving – transferring electrical power to the generators to reduce the load on its diesel engines and therefore emissions – to determine the most effective hybrid combinations under various given circumstances.

It’s a good thing the batteries are so easily replaceable.

“I think I’ve got about ten years of life in them,” Jonny tells me. “With use and general wear and tear, they will deteriorate. But in ten years there will be new types of batteries with efficiency levels we can really only dream about now.”

It’s still early days in terms of measuring actual emissions output, but it’s estimated that fuel consumption will be cut by 20 per cent and CO2 emissions – the trigger for climate change – reduced by more than 3,000 tonnes per year. In July, more than 60 per cent of Greenland’s ice sheet surface experienced melt, meaning more than half of all its glaciers had pools of melting water detected on their surfaces. And in August, there were reports that 10 billion tonnes of ice was shaved off Greenland’s glaciers in just one day. As cruise passengers, there’s finally something we can do about this dramatic climate emergency.

The engines of the Roald Amundsen are designed on the principle of electric propulsion; there’s no hydraulic connection between the engine and its propellers. The fuel Roald Amundsen uses is as light as what you put in your car; Hurtigruten stopped using heavy fuel oil years ago even though it is still permitted in the Arctic, thanks to the increasingly unwanted presence of mining and oil platforms.

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Single-use plastics have been banned on all Hurtigruten vessels, and clean-up days have been a feature of the company’s routes up and down the Norwegian coast since 2010. Beach clean-ups are now, surprisingly, one of the most popular of all guest activities, and what can’t be bagged and brought on board is put in designated areas for collection.

In the Science Centre on Deck 6 you can look through polarising microscopes at strands of humpback whale baleen and dinoflagellates (marine plankton that are mixotrophic, surviving both by photosynthesis and through the ingestion of prey). There are castings of the skulls of minke whales, horned puffins and king penguins, as well as black bear paws and even the beak of a giant squid, all supplied by Los Angeles-based company Bone Clones, which helps to bring hands-on science to Hurtigruten’s passengers.

Alongside the science, technology and hands-on environmentalism on board are all the usual luxuries.

There are three restaurants: Aune, for everyday dining; the reasonably priced Lindstrøm, which requires a booking and serves gourmet Scandinavian cuisine such as reindeer sirloin, dried cod from Lofoten and hard-tofind cloudberries; and Fredheim with a collection of classic burgers, New York-style hot dogs, steamed dumplings and the ever-popular lobster rolls. The ship has a swimming pool, two hot tubs, a fabulous gym and wellness centre, including a sauna with large windows so you can sit back and watch the oceans go by.

But there’s plenty of excitement off the ship too. On our ten-night cruise from Svalbard to East Greenland and Iceland we had zodiac landings along the East Greenland coast, a land of towering coastal cliffs and innumerable glaciers and the world’s largest national park. We visited old trading posts and the Greenlandic town of Ittoqqortoormiit where 200 polar bears have wandered into town over the last 12 months. “We shoo them away,” one local told me. And we ventured deep into Scoresby Sound, the world’s largest fjord.

And we did it all on the most advanced polar cruise ship currently cruising some of the world’s most fragile environments, a ship which, despite its considerable size for an expedition vessel, maintains a sense of intimacy.

This is the ideal platform for those who love to cruise, but also want to ensure future generations will have wild places that are worth cruising to.

Clockwise from above: fine dining in the Lindstrøm restaurant; a zodiac tour of Scoresby Sound; a successful excursion; the remote village of Ittoqqortoormiit in Greenland; expedition suite onboard Roald Amundsen.

SUSTAINABILITY: HURTIGRUTEN

As cruise passengers, there’s finally something we can do about this dramatic climate emergency.”

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Hurtigruten VESSEL: Roald Amundsen PASSENGER CAPACITY: 530 TOTAL CREW: 120 PASSENGER DECKS: 9 TONNAGE: 20,889 ENTERED SERVICE: 2019 FACILITIES: Three categories of cabins, indoor/outdoor observation deck, infinity pool, pool deck with saunas and hot tubs, three dining venues, Science Centre and kayaks.

BOOKINGS: See hurtigruten.com.au

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SUSTAINABILITY: HURTIGRUTEN

The cruise ship of the future?

+

HEAT-RECOVERY SYSTEM The water used to cool the engines delivers heat back to the ship through an exchange, supplying the galley, showers, pool and ventilation systems. Additional heat is supplied from exhaust gas hot-water boilers.

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EXPEDITION LAUNCH This is your gateway whenever you go off the ship with the Expedition Team to explore the surrounding coastline up close. Our sturdy Explorer boats, kayaks and stand-up paddle boards are stored here, ready for adventure.

SUSTAINABILITY: HURTIGRUTEN

SCIENCE CENTRE Join the Expedition Team here for a range of lectures, photography workshops and Citizen Science projects. The Centre also features scientific and educational equipment, such as microscopes and interactive maps.

ICE CLASS MS Roald Amundsen is PC6 polar class, which means she benefits from significant hull and propeller strengthening. With azimuth propellers and bow tunnel thrusters, sea ice is flushed away from the hull to allow greater manoeuvrability in ice conditions.

HYBRID POWER The ship will be powered by four engines and two large battery units. Combined with the hull structure, they will reduce the ship’s fuel consumption by about 20% and cut CO2 discharges by more than 3,000 tonnes per year.

> The verdict

HIGHS: Expedition cruising, lectures and the Science Centre.

LOWS: With over 500 passengers it can sometimes be difficult finding quiet spaces outside of your cabin. More passengers also means it takes longer to disembark for shore excursions.

BEST FOR: A large ship by expedition vessel standards, its luxurious appointments allow Roald Amundsen to cater for everyone from those who like to be pampered to the adventurist.

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SUSTAINABILITY: OVERTOURISM

Avoid the crowds

Do yourself (and the world’s hotspots) a favour and take the road less travelled.

W

e’re increasingly hearing reports of damage to age-old sites and delicate ecosystems – not to mention disgruntled locals and disappointed travellers who didn’t quite get what they’d hoped for. But as more and more people are making beelines for the same famous places, it’s not surprising that overtourism is taking its toll.

The good news is there are plenty of less touristy destinations where you can enjoy a similar experience, avoid the crowds and do your bit to take the pressure off those well-trodden spots.

Here are our picks of the best holiday swaps.

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Swap Venice, Italy for Ljubljana, Slovenia

•

Last year, the number of visitors to Venice hit the 30 million mark, putting undue stress on the Floating City. Cruise ships bring in thousands per year and, due to extreme overcrowding, there has been talk of banning large vessels from the city centre. There’s already a ‘sitting ban’, which prohibits visitors from taking a load off in St Mark’s Square or on the Rialto Bridge and daytrippers, including cruisers, will be charged €10 to help cover the cost of cleaning up after them.

If this all sounds less than appealing, you could trade the clogged canals and jaded shopkeepers of Venice for the calm waterways and warm hospitality of Ljubljana in neighbouring Slovenia.

The nation’s remarkably eco-conscious capital offers fine examples of Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture, including a series of beautiful bridges, and is teeming with culinary experiences and cultural delights. What’s more, there’s not a tourist tax in sight.

SUSTAINABILITY: OVERTOURISM

Swap Barcelona, Spain for Lisbon, Portugal

• Godafoss waterfall

Swap Reykjavik, Iceland for Akureyri, Iceland

Nestled between mountains and sea, Barcelona has been pulling a crowd for decades with its Gaudi architecture, walkable streets and distinctive food.

These days, however, it is the Med’s biggest sea port, with 32 million visitors per year squeezing into the city. Its iconic 18th-century walkway, La Rambla, has become so crowded with souvenir stalls and people, it’s not for the faint of heart, while timed tickets for Gaudi’s infamous Sagrada Familia basilica are known to sell out weeks in advance.

Leave the “I heart Barcelona” trinkets behind and try Lisbon, where you’ll find history at every corner and an authenticity that its Spanish counterpart is struggling to maintain. Huddled at the mouth of the River Tagus, Portugal’s capital has the added bonus of being built across seven hills offering panoramic views of the captivating city and its surrounds. Here you can roam the ramparts of the 11th-century Castelo de São Jorge and explore the World Heritage-listed Mosteiro dos Jerónimos before turning your attention to the culinary scene – since 2014 Lisbon has acquired no fewer than seven Michelin stars.

•

Iceland’s geysers, glaciers and waterfalls remained largely undiscovered by the outside world until Bjork put the country on the map. Since then, word has spread and last year, visitor numbers jumped to two million, outnumbering the local population by more than five to one. So far, however, the crowds have been overwhelmingly confined to the capital, Reykjavik, where tourists vie for space in the tiny city’s galleries and museums before venturing out to the nearby national parks, or to join the throngs of semi-clad hot-springs enthusiasts at the perennially popular Blue Lagoon.

With that in mind, why not eschew the south and head up to Akureyri, the unofficial capital of the north? Significantly quieter, this charming city has the same colourful wooden houses and beautiful open spaces as its southern sister, plus easy access to Nordic wonders. The geothermal Myvatn Nature Baths, for instance, deliver the same mineral-rich milky blue water that draws crowds to the Blue Lagoon, but you won’t have to share it with so many people.

Sintra, near Lisbon

Swap Dubrovnik, Croatia for Zadar, Croatia

•

Thanks to its popularity as a cruise port and its prominent role in hit TV series Game of Thrones, historic Dubrovnik is teeming with tourists, so much so that UNESCO has threatened to revoke its heritage status. In just one day, more than 10,000 visitors bought tickets to walk the defensive walls – to curb numbers there are now cameras to track visitation, limits on souvenir stands and from 2019, the city is only accepting two cruise ships a day.

Just a short hop up the coast, Croatia’s oldest continuously occupied city, Zadar, is significantly less crowded than Dubrovnik but still offers the same stunning setting on the Adriatic. Within its walls you’ll find an eclectic mix of Roman, Byzantine and Venetian architecture.

Foodies will enjoy a choice of top-notch fish restaurants, with prices that are considerably easier on the wallet, and you’re also in the best place to sample the country’s wine – Zadar sits right in the middle of two of Croatia’s best grapegrowing regions. cruisepassenger.com.au

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READERS’ CHOICE SPONSORED BY

VOTE NOW JOIN US FOR THE CRUISE INDUSTRY’S NIGHT OF NIGHTS

SINGAPORE AIRLINES, THE WORLD’S MOST AWARDED CARRIER, IS NOW PART OF THE READERS’ CHOICE TEAM

C

ruise Passenger’s Readers’ Choice Awards have grown to be one of the largest in Australia. Last year, we had a record number of entries across a number of categories and this year we have even more awards; this is your opportunity to vote for your favourite cruise lines, ships and staff. This is also the first year we’ll be holding a special Cruise Passenger Reader’s Choice Awards ceremony where winners will be announced and recognised for their amazing efforts in the cruise industry with a champagne celebration.

Crews work hard to make holidays great – reward them with your vote.

The Readers' Choice Awards’ well-deserved prestige comes from being a much-valued insight into the views of Australia’s cruising community.

As such, CLIA places great importance on the Awards as a barometer of public sentiment.’

Sture Myrmell, Chair of Cruise Lines International Association Australiasia.

Win tickets

VOTE TO WIN

Tell us in 25 words or less, what you would do to improve Australian cruise ships.

You’ll go in the draw to win two tickets to Cruise Passenger’s Readers’ Choice Awards event in October.

Just head to cruisepassenger.com. au/readerschoice to enter. Ts&Cs on our website.

VOTE AT CRUISEPASSENGER.COM.AU/READERSCHOICE

CruisePlus Experiences, food and wellness on your travels

INSIDE

Australian Ports 66

Shanghai Fly Cruise 74

Airline Review 82

Style 86

Western Australia 70

Komodo Island 78

Food 84

Ports 94

Last Word 90

70 84

74 78

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CRUISE PLUS: PORTS OF AUSTRALIA

girt by sea

Domestic cruisers have plenty to celebrate with the advent of new ports and exciting experiences on our own doorstep.

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CRUISE PLUS: PORTS OF AUSTRALIA

O

ur sunburnt country is a land of red desert and bushlands, but our home is also girt by sea. Australia, the island nation of so many different landscapes, has welcomed cruising with open arms.

From the pristine coastline of Western Australia to the sunny shores of Queensland, the states are opening up their ports to host local and international lines like British brand Cruise & Maritime Voyages, American powerhouse Royal Caribbean, all-Aussie P&O Cruises and French luxury line Ponant.

While Sydney is known as the gateway of Australian cruising, there are so many other ports that open cruisers to new experiences.

For instance, Kangaroo Island in South Australia is the place to see native wildlife such as tammar wallabies, short-beaked echidnas, kangaroos and koalas.

It also offers different landscapes and environments – you’ll find towering sand dunes juxtaposed with forests and acres of farmland, as well as stunning coastal formations such as the Remarkable Rocks and the stalactitecovered Admirals Arch. It’s a twitcher’s delight and for the outdoors lover, there are plenty of hiking trails and wildlife sightseeing excursions.

The tiny island is attracting smaller luxury and boutique cruise lines including Crystal Cruises, Silversea and Regent Seven Seas. The island’s most frequent visitor though, is the home-grown P&O Cruises, which regularly sends Pacific Eden and Pacific Jewel.

The pristine beaches and warm waters of Queensland are also attracting more cruise lines. Gladstone, a small port mainly visited by P&O Cruises and Carnival Cruise Lines, is where you can see the Southern Great Barrier Reef on a high-speed catamaran tour.

It is also home to the Turtle Rehabilitation Centre at Quoin Island Retreat in Gladstone Harbour. Here, visitors can learn about the fascinating reptiles and their habitat, and it is home to many injured and rescued turtles before they are released back into the wild.

Down in Victoria, the picturesque town of Portland is a prime spot for whale watchers.

The nutrient-rich deep ocean water attracts many different species of whales, which bring their young to feed.

Portland also has a rich fishing history and there are deep-sea excursions for keen anglers who want to try their hand at catching rockling, hoki and blue-eye trevalla.

A number of cruise lines, including the ultra-luxurious Hapag-Lloyd and boutique small-ship line Azamara, will be making inaugural calls to southern ports.

On the southern coast of New South Wales, Eden, home to rolling lush fields of dairy farms, is known as the seafood capital of the state. The government is investing in the port of Eden, which will mean bigger ships and more passengers have access to this beautiful part of the country.

Eden is known for its oyster farming and cruisers can learn how to shuck their own bivalves and sample them with a glass of chardonnay or sauvignon blanc. This pretty coastal region also has a fascinating whaling history and there are museums dedicated to the stories. There is the Killer Whale Trail as well as the Eden Killer Whale Museum which houses priceless skeletons of these majestic animals.

With all these promising new ports, and more to come, the future of cruising in Australia is something to look forward to.

It’s time to explore Australia’s coast with new ports for cruisers.

Right: There’s great fishing in Portland, Victoria.

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CRUISE PLUS: WESTERN AUSTRALIA

CMV is launching Vasco da Gama in Western Australia and Teresa Ooi can’t wait.

W

estern Australia’s 12,500 kilometres of coastline are truly spectacular, blessed with turquoise waters and white sand, wildflowers and wildlife, charming coastal towns and rugged national parks. Then there are the amazing sunsets and some of the best food and wine in the country – no wonder more cruise lines are heading to WA. Leading the charge is Cruise & Maritime Voyages. Its flagship, the stylish 1,220-passenger Vasco da Gama, will homeport in Fremantle for the summer 2019-20 season and again in 2020-21.

CMV has curated a range of irresistible itineraries along the WA coast, taking in regional ports including Esperance, Albany, Busselton, Geraldton, Broome and Kuri Bay. Cruises depart and return to Fremantle, making it perfect for both locals and interstate travellers looking to add a city break in Perth to their trip.

Your journey of discovery begins in Fremantle, a sunny, laid-back city where 19th-century buildings mesh with funky new cafes and a maritime feel permeates the streets.

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Here, the tradition of a sundowner is deeply ingrained and local craft beer is almost a preoccupation among the locals.

Fremantle is home to a growing number of local breweries; beer connoisseurs should make a beeline for the Sail and Anchor pub where you can choose from over 30 craft beers on tap. The Little Creatures brewery, an established watering hole where you can take a guided tour, is another popular stop for locals as well as thirsty tourists.

Coffee drinkers should make their way to Fremantle’s legendary Cappuccino Strip, located along South Terrace, which is abuzz with cafes, restaurants, live music and some of the best coffee the city has to offer. Walk down the strip towards Fremantle Market and meet the city’s famous street performers – you may even spot the Badpiper, the world’s only heavy-metal piper.

Don’t miss Fremantle Prison, a former maximum-security prison which now has UNESCO World Heritage status and runs fascinating tours of the six-hectare site.

If you wish to take a trip into the bigger city of Perth, it’s just a half-hour drive from Fremantle.

Fremantle Passenger Terminal in Victoria Quay is just a short 10-minute walk from the town centre, making it an easy start to your cruise journey.

Vasco da Gama will call at Geraldton, more than 400 kilometres north of Fremantle. The coastal city of pink lakes and prized seafood is emerging as a trendy beach escape where you can explore Aboriginal trails. The Yamaji Drive Trail includes 14 Indigenous sites where you can learn about the local bush foods or swim in Ellendale Pool.

Fly over the 14-kilometre Hutt Lagoon which changes colour from pink to lilac purple, depending on the time of day and season, thanks to the algae in the water. The clear waters of the ocean around Geraldton are flush with some of Australia’s best seafood especially the rock lobster, prized for its sweet, juicy flesh. For

Lake Hillier in WA’s Recherche Archipelago.

Below: a kangaroo on the beach near Esperance.

CRUISE PLUS: WESTERN AUSTRALIA

West coast, best coast

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CRUISE PLUS: WESTERN AUSTRALIA

a taste, head to Skeetas on the waterfront, where rock lobster is always on the menu.

Further north is the resort town of Broome, renowned for the white sands of the 22-kilometre long Cable Beach, where you can take a sunset camel ride.

Head to Broome’s historic Chinatown, which overlooks Roebuck Bay, a jumping-off point for tour cruises to local pearl farms. Discover how pearls are produced and watch pearl farming in action, or enrol in a pearl masterclass at Willie Creek Pearl Farm in the protected tidal estuary.

Vasco da Gama will make an inaugural visit to Kuri Bay on its Broome & Treasures of the North West itinerary this wave season. Kuri Bay, located in the remote fjordland of Western Australia’s Kimberley region, is home to the country’s first cultured pearl farm and the area now produces 60 per cent of the world’s large white South Sea peals.

On Western Australia’s south coast, Esperance is known for its incredible white sandy beaches and untouched coastal scrub. Drive along the 38-kilometre Great Ocean Drive and see countless sugary beaches and sculpted rock formations. The incredible bubblegum-pink Lake Hillier in the remote Recherche Archipelago, off the coast of Esperance, is accessible only by boat or scenic flight.

For a unique souvenir, stop in at Mermaid Leather, the only fish and shark leather tannery in Australia.

These artisans repurpose skins leftover from the local fishing industry to create sustainable bags and wallets.

Heading further east, Cape Le Grand National Park is home to Lucky Bay, which has sand so fine it squeaks when you walk on it.

East of Esperance is the historical town of Albany, which enchants visitors with a view down the main street straight into the harbour from which the fleets of Anzac troops departed on their journey to Gallipoli in 1914. Founded in 1826, Albany is the oldest European settlement in the state, and heritage architecture, gracious churches and quirky museums dot the city.

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Clockwise from above: a sunset camel ride on Cable Beach; Little Creatures brewery in Fremantle; Vasco da Gama and its pool deck.

Head to the Light Horse War Memorial on Mount Clarence for an incredible view over the waters of King George Sound and Princess Royal Harbour.

Despite having a population of only 20,000, Busselton has the longest wooden jetty in the Southern Hemisphere. The Underwater Observatory at the end of the 1.8-kilometre historic jetty gives an up-close glimpse into marine life. As you descend beneath the waves, you can watch life on Geographe Bay unfold before you without getting wet.

With a wonderful perch on the edge of the Indian Ocean, the clean and neat city is easily navigated on foot, and is the perfect hub for trips to the white sandy beaches, rocks, caves and forest of the region.

For many, the pinnacle of their journey will be the stop at Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse, the tallest on the mainland. This white tower sits on Australia’s most south-westerly point, where the Indian and Southern oceans meet. National Geographic named it one of the world’s top three ocean views, and what a view it is.

For more information visit cmvaustralia.com or call 1300 307 934.

UNESCO HAS JUST RECOGNISED A NEW GLOBAL GEOPARK IN VIETNAM? THE WORLD IS CHANGING. ARE YOU? Cao Bang was recognised by UNESCO as Vietnam’s second Global Geopark.

Explore Vietnam with Vietnam Airlines’ direct flights and discover the marvels of Mother Earth.

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Wonders of the West Experience The Extraordinary In Western Australia

Gantheaume Point, Broome Photo Credit: Tourism Western Australia

Cruise the Bight Adelaide to Perth (Fremantle) 6 Jan 2020 | 7 Nights | Vasco da Gama Oceanview Cabins From $1,339pp Guest 1 from $1,779 | Guest 2 from $889

A Feast For The Senses Boutique Gin & Culinary Cruise

Bali & the Northwest

FEATURING

13 Jan 2020 | 12 Nights | Vasco da Gama

• Cooking demonstrations with Callum Hann and Themis Chrisydis from Sprout Cooking School • Fascinating lectures from Gin experts and master distillers at Giniversity and Adelaide Gin

SELLING

FAST

Perth (Fremantle) Roundtrip Oceanview Cabins From $2,629pp Guest 1 from $3,499 | Guest 2 from $1,749

2ND GUEST

Bali (Benoa)

• Optional hosted Gin Tastings with Giniversity and Adelaide Gin*

Margaret River (Busselton)

Esperance Albany

Broome

• Optional culinary shore excursions*

FREMANTLE ADELAIDE

• Optional hosted dinners with Callum Hann and Themis Chrisydis*

stay on board and extend your journey

• And more to be announced...

Proudly Presented With:

Geraldton Fremantle

ALSO AVAILABLE IN 2021^

Intimate Smaller Smaller Ships Ships •• Relaxed Relaxed Country-Club Country-Club Ambiance Ambiance •• Friendly, Friendly, Personalised Personalised Service Service •• All All Main Main Meals Meals && Afternoon Afternoon Tea Tea CMV CRUISES •• Intimate Comfortable Accommodation Accommodation •• Captain’s Captain’s Cocktail Cocktail Parties Parties## •• Cabaret-Style Cabaret-Style Entertainment, Entertainment, Daytime Daytime Activities…and Activities…and much much more more INCLUDE •• Comfortable Terms & Conditions: *Supplementary charges may apply to specialty restaurants and selected theme activities and programming. ^Fares and itineraries for alternate departure dates may vary. #Captain’s Cocktail Parties on selected cruises 6 nights or longer. Fares shown and are cruise only, per person twin-share, in AUD and include all discounts, port and government charges (including GST when applicable). Fares listed are for selected cabins and are accurate as at 8/8/19. On Buy One Get One 50% Off and Buy One Get One Free offers, both guest 1 and 2 must book together and travel in the same cabin. Offers available to new bookings

Oceanview Balcony Cabin on CMV’s Vasco da Gama

Mammoth Cave from Busselton

Lake Hillier, Esperance

Photo Credit: Tourism Western Australia

Photo Credit: Tourism Western Australia

Waterfront Restaurant on CMV’s Vasco da Gama

Lido Pool Deck on CMV’s Vasco da Gama

Margaret River Wineries from Busselton

Tropical Escape

Broome & the Kimberley

Perth (Fremantle) to Singapore

Perth (Fremantle) Roundtrip

Perth (Fremantle) Roundtrip

12 Feb 2020 | 12 Nights | Vasco da Gama

15 Jan 2021 | 10 Nights | Vasco da Gama

27 Jan 2021 | 5 Nights | Vasco da Gama

From

$2,149pp

Guest 1 from $2,859 | Guest 2 from $1,429

2ND GUEST

From

Southwest Escape

$1,449pp

From

Guest 1 from $2,889 | Guest 2 FREE 2ND GUEST

2ND GUEST

FREE

SINGAPORE Semarang Bali (Benoa)

$709pp

Guest 1 from $1,409 | Guest 2 FREE

FREE

Kuri Bay Broome

Lombok (Lembar)

FREMANTLE Albany Esperance

Broome

Geraldton FREMANTLE

FREMANTLE

Geraldton

ALSO AVAILABLE IN 2021^

ALSO AVAILABLE IN 2020^

ALSO AVAILABLE IN 2020^

ORDER A

FREE

FOR FOR MORE MORE INFORMATION INFORMATION

BROCHURE TODAY

CALL CALL 1300 1300 307 307 934 934 || VISIT VISIT CMVAUSTRALIA.COM CMVAUSTRALIA.COM || CONTACT CONTACT YOUR YOUR TRAVEL TRAVEL AGENT AGENT only and may not combinable with other offers or promotions. Prices are governed by the CMV terms and conditions. Offers can be changed or withdrawn at any time without notice and are subject to availability. Gratuities not included. Amendment/cancellation fees and booking conditions apply. E&OE. For all terms and conditions, visit CMVAustralia.com. AD190911_CruisePass_DPS

CRUISE PLUS: FLY CRUISE SHANGHAI

SHANGHAIED

As adventurous Australians embrace fly-cruise, a new destination is vying for their business. Teresa Ooi reports.

A

sian cruises are hugely popular among Australians, thanks to the region’s proximity, inexpensive flights and ever-greater ship and itinerary options.

Singapore has long been a favourite launching point, with cruise lines homeporting their best ships at purpose-built terminals. With just a five-hour flight, cruisers can shop, see the sights and journey into Asia with ease.

Now, a rival is vying for the Australian market. With the arrival of Royal Caribbean megaliner Spectrum of the Seas into Shanghai, China’s largest city is now a major Asian cruise hub.

Australia’s big travel agencies are all offering tempting packages that make the extra two hours of flight time worthwhile. And already, more than 2,100 Australians have booked to sail on Spectrum of the Seas

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The Bund seen across the Huangpu River.

this year - mostly couples who are attracted by the longer seven-night itineraries departing Shanghai.

The liner is custom-built for the Chinese market and she is a stunning example of state-of-the-art cruising, boasting new dining concepts and stunning features – many of which have never before been seen at sea.

One example is the two-level Ultimate Family Suite, which accommodates 11 guests in three bedrooms.

Highlights include the suite’s master ensuite, which extends over the side of the ship for unparalleled ocean views, and the spiral staircase that’s designed like a piano, playing different chords of the scale as you walk up or down. Younger passengers have their own kid-friendly space on the upper level, complete with a slide that takes them to the living room below.

For activities, guests can look to Sky Pad, a virtualreality bungee trampoline experience; the sky diving

CRUISE PLUS: FLY CRUISE SHANGHAI

simulator; the rock climbing wall 60 metres above sea level; or observation pod North Star.

The Suite Club on Decks 13 through 16 is the line’s first exclusive suites-only area, with 36 Golden Suites and 106 Silver Suites. Guests have exclusive-access elevators, a private restaurant and lounge, and entry to The Balcony, a private outdoor space with the best sea views. The Boutique can be reserved for private shopping, intimate parties and wine tastings.

There are 17 dining venues and eight specialty restaurants on Spectrum, including Sichuan Red, a new restaurant featuring authentic cuisine; a traditional tea room and café called Leaf and Bean; and Teppanyaki, offering authentic oriental flavours cooked in Japanese traditional style.

Of course, a good fly-cruise hub needs more than just the ship – the city needs to appeal too, and Australian cruisers are enjoying exploring Shanghai for a few nights before or after they sail.

Few cities in the world evoke as much glamour and mystique as Shanghai does.

The city’s years of excess during the 1920s and 1930s left it with great examples of art deco buildings, while its patchwork history has left a trail of magnificent hotels, Jesuit cathedrals and Buddhist temples.

It is also home to a host of neck-craning skyscrapers including the 632-metre Shanghai Tower, the 492-metre World Financial Centre and the 420-metre Jin Mao Tower. Then there’s the Oriental Pearl TV

Of course, a good fly-cruise hub needs more than just the ship – the city needs to appeal too.”

Tower with its distinctive pink spheres opposite The Bund on the Huangpu River.

For a change of pace, visit Qibao Ancient Town with a history spanning 1000 years. Look out for the stunning pagoda-like bell tower and Qibao temple which dates back to the 900s.

Street food is the very essence of Shanghainese life.

For a classic experience, head to the hole-in-the wall stalls at the intersection of Xiangyang and Changle Roads in the former French Concession. Try the popular potstickers, jianbing (savoury pancakes) and shengjianbao (pan-fried meat bun), a Shanghai specialty.

The area around South Yunnan Road is another area where you can feast your the senses. Savour the dumplings, spicy shredded meat noodles and Mongolian hotpot. It’s a great place to refuel after museum hopping at nearby People’s Square.

If you are interested in the history of the cheongsam or qipao, the traditional clothing worn by Chinese women, head to the Shanghai Qipao Art Hall. Or if you’d rather have your own custom-made cheongsam, go to Changle Road and Maoming Road which are jam-packed with specialist tailor shops.

For more on Spectrum of the Seas visit royalcaribbean.com/cruise-ships/spectrum-of-the-seas cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: FLY CRUISE SHANGHAI V SINGAPORE

SHANGHAI SURPRISE

V

SINGAPORE SLING

Will Spectrum of the Seas homeporting in Shanghai turn the city into Australia’s top fly-cruise destination, usurping current favourite Singapore?

You be the judge.

Singapore Why cruise from Singapore?

The island state is the gateway to cruising the waters of Southeast Asia, China, Japan and even Australia. Marina Bay Cruise Centre provides smooth fly-cruise transfer to and from Changi Airport. A few days is plenty to explore the city sights, including Marina Bay Sands, Gardens by the Bay, Esplanade, the Merlion, Orchard Road and Botanic Gardens.

Flight time from Sydney 8.5 hours Qantas price $907 return (Oct 1- Oct 14) Ships Quantum of the Seas, Pacific Dawn, Majestic Princess, Sapphire Princess,

Voyager of the Seas, Le Laperouse, Star Clipper, Azamara Quest, Sun Princess, Silver Muse, Silver Spirit, AIDAbella, AIDAvita, Westerdam, Seabourn Encore, Seabourn Ovation, Seven Seas Voyager, Norwegian Jade, Costa Fortuna, MS Europa, Celebrity Millennium.

Shanghai Why cruise from Shanghai?

China’s biggest city by population has a modern cruise terminal attracting lines from all over the world, and Shanghai is fast becoming a popular fly-cruise market for Australia, as well as cruisers coming from further afield. You could easily fill time before or after you cruise: check out the classical architecture of The Bund, go shopping on Nanjing Road, visit the former French quarter, stop in at the Jade Buddha Temple and explore Shanghai Museum.

Flight time from Sydney 10.5 hours Qantas price $996 return (Oct 1- Oct 14)

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Ships Quantum of the Seas, Majestic Princess, Sapphire Princess, Oceania Nautica, Oceania Insignia, Holland America’s Westerdam, Celebrity Millennium, Silver Whisper, Silver Muse, Seabourn Sojourn, Norwegian Spirit, MSC Splendida, Azamara Quest. m.

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77

CRUISE PLUS: KOMODO ISLAND

Chasing the dragons

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Indonesia’s Komodo Island National Park is best experienced from the deck of a luxury yacht, according to Mark Daffey.

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usa Kode’s heavily forested backbone slopes down to a horseshoe-shaped bay where the Banda Sea waters lap against a lonesome beach.

If not for the six Komodo dragons prowling menacingly along the water’s edge, it would be an idyllic spot to spend a day swimming and snorkelling.

“The sound of our tender’s engines attracts them.

They think they are going to be fed,” says Andy

CRUISE PLUS: KOMODO ISLAND Brusselmans, our cruise director on the swanky super-yacht, Prana by Atzaro.

Our driver, Second Officer Andi Masur, patrols the shoreline from a distance, studying the dragons’ behaviour before deciding to inch towards the beach.

“Don’t get too close,” says a fellow passenger. “I don’t want one of them spitting on me.”

This ill-informed conversation inside the tender is based on the belief that Komodo dragons kill their prey merely by spitting at them, the belief being that their saliva contains sufficient toxicity to bring down a buffalo. But more recent research suggests that dragons use strangulation and blood loss from bite wounds to bring down their prey. And while dragons hiss, certainly, they don’t spit.

Passengers paddle off Padar Island. Right: a Komodo dragon up close.

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CRUISE PLUS: KOMODO ISLAND

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Atzaro Group VESSEL: Prana by Atzaro MAX PASSENGER CAPACITY: 18 TOTAL CREW: 20, including two dive masters PASSENGER DECKS: 4 ENTERED SERVICE: 2018 FACILITIES: Nine en-suite cabins, a yoga deck doubling as an open-air cinema, onboard spa treatments and water-sports equipment.

BOOKINGS: pranabyatzaro.com

> The verdict

HIGHS: Pampered opulence among mesmerising islands.

LOWS: Disembarking.

BEST FOR: Adventurous souls seeking absolute comfort in the Banda Sea.

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Nevertheless, it’s wise not to get too chummy with these dragons, especially once we learn that their diets are indiscriminate. They mill along the water’s edge, their tongues flickering constantly in a bid to gauge our scent. One appears to have an inflated belly. “Is it pregnant?” a passenger asks.

“Maybe it’s just eaten,” says the dive master.

“Hope so,” someone murmurs.

Eventually, a fearsome 100-kilogram monster, with a face only a mother could love, eases into the water and swims towards our tender, propelled by a swishing tail as long as its torso. Masur puts the tender into reverse and the dragon soon gives up, swinging round to return to shore.

“The water is too cold for them,” explains the dive master. “It won’t come in again.”

Hard to believe that this water could be too cold for anything. For two days now, every passenger onboard Prana by Atzaro has been soaking in its 27-degree warmth, either by aqualung or snorkel.

Prana by Atzaro is like nothing else. The hand-built, 55-metre-long ironwood and teak superyacht is crafted in the style of a traditional Indonesian phinisi, a classic wooden two-mast Indonesian transport and cargo boat. Prana was the brainchild of Atzaro, a high-end resort and hospitality group headquartered on the Mediterranean party island of Ibiza.

Propelled by nine sails, aided by an 880-horsepower Yamaha motor, the ship has become the Banda Sea’s new standardbearer, with nine elegant suites for up to 18 guests, with an equal number of crew catering to their whims.

Clockwise from left: hiking track on Padar Island; beach stopover on Makassar Reef; Bruno the chef; sunset drinks on the top deck; Prana under full sail.

It began operations in July 2018, with a schedule that rotates between Komodo, the Spice Islands and Raja Ampat, a jungled archipelago teeming with reef life off the northwest tip of West Papua. Our four-day cruise starts and finishes in Labuan Bajo, a shabby port town on the west coast of Flores, the emerald jewel in the Nusa Tenggara group of islands east of Lombok.

We’ve drifted over coral reefs and swum with reef sharks and manta rays in a region recognised globally for its unmatched marine diversity. Then we’ve lazed on tidal sand spits with dazzling white beaches, before hiking to sunset viewpoints or sharing candlelit, barbecue dinners on the beach under a blanket of stars.

Crew members have always been waiting for us to reboard the yacht so they can hand us chilled, lemongrass-scented face towels and tropical fruit juices laced with tamarind, ginger or turmeric. On one occasion, after we’d dived over a coral reef harbouring an

impressive number of tropical fish and corals, I counted 10 staff offering a helping hand onto the rear deck, to take our flippers off or hand us a dry towel. You’d think they had nothing better to do.

In between adventures we’ve been able to just enjoy being on the yacht. Two spa therapists have been busy massaging us on the open deck, where fresh sea breezes wash over us. Morning yoga classes have taken place on the top deck soon after the sun has risen. And a six-strong kitchen team has prepared scrumptious Asian and Westernfused meals accompanied by surprisingly palatable Balinese wines made with Limestone Coast grapes.

My time onboard Prana has been so memorable that when we sail back into Labuan Bajo at the end of our cruise, the thought of returning home to work downright appalls me. Then I remember those hungry Komodo dragons. Perhaps I shouldn’t tempt fate any longer than I have to.

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CRUISE PLUS: AIRLINE REVIEW

AIRLINE REVIEW

THE ETIQUETTE OF POD LIFE The novel layout of British Airways’ business class section brings its own set of social dilemmas, writes Peter Lynch.

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CRUISE PLUS: AIRLINE REVIEW

The flight: BA15 London to Sydney The plane: 777-300 The seat: 11d to Singapore, 10K to Sydney The verdict: Keen pricing and friendly staff make British Airways’ Club Class a great option.

T

here really needs to be an etiquette manual for British Airways business class provided upon boarding.

The business class section is a maze of pods that allows for eight seats across a row, with aisle seats facing the front of the aircraft and window and middle seats facing the back.

A frosted sliding hatch separates you from your new partner, unless you elect for the two love seats in the middle of the plane.

Those more used to sitting side by side are now confronted with a fellow passenger’s face and a dilemma: do you break the ice and say hello, or decisively slam your hatch shut?

On my own first leg I am seated by the former food editor of Women’s Weekly and we have a lovely time dissecting the menu and tasting the fare.

On my second leg, tucked in a corner of the plane against the bulkhead, my companion and I decide privacy is a

The seats recline all the way back to form a bed and come with pillows and blankets.

better policy. She does say, “Please don’t take it personally…” as the hatch goes up.

And I don’t.

The Club World seat is a great design – it folds fully flat, and you can increase lumbar support and inflate your headrest memory foam. All very high-tech.

My cubby house, as I choose to call seat 10K, comes with a laptop drawer and a touch screen – though I note it is the same screen as the seats in Premium Economy – which is packed with the best of British entertainment.

Our 13-hour flight to Singapore starts in the evening, so dinner of lamb and champagne served on china and glassware sets the mood.

On my second eight-hour leg, barbequed pork and chili soba noodles, pan-seared snapper with Chinese vegetables and lavender cake are the order of the day, though my corner seat means staff have to peek around the bulkhead to offer drinks, snacks and meals, or open the hatch and pass it over.

The Club World staff is well drilled in coping with the demands of a more discerning client. For instance, you’ll receive a breakfast card with choices of meals and times you would like to be woken. Dinner comes with an express option for those keen to get under the blankets and get some shuteye.

The drink menu consists of four cocktails, two mocktails and a host of spirits, liqueurs and digestifs, as well a London-roasted coffee blend.

Having invested time and money in your holiday, it makes sense to ensure you arrive refreshed and ready to enjoy it, and this is a good way to do just that. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: FOOD

PLANT POWER As Regent Seven Seas Cruises prepares to launch its new plantbased menus, avid carnivore David Dickstein puts it to the taste test.

S

oon passengers will have more than 200 new and delicious reasons to feel less guilty about bypassing the fitness centre and jogging track while on holiday; luxury-class Regent Seven Seas Cruises is making major nutritious changes to its fare from bow to stern.

It’s out with the separate vegan menu and in with scores of gourmet plant-based dishes, integrated into the daily menus of the main dining room and beyond.

Captaining the culinary creations is Regent’s vice president of food and beverage, Bernhard Klotz. The project’s 84

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team includes world-renowned chef and author Christophe Berg, a vegan of 15 years who recently served in a similar consulting capacity for Oceania Cruises.

Executing their vegetarian-rooted vision will be the galley crews of Regent’s fleet of four vessels, five when Seven Seas Splendor arrives in February 2020.

So what’s the difference between plant-based and vegan diets?

Both are generally based on personal health, animal welfare and environmental concerns. But those eating plant-based dishes are free to eat dairy, as well as small amounts of poultry, red meat, fish and animal by-products. Vegans, vehemently, are not.

Dino Schwager, a nine-year executive chef with Regent Seven Seas, told me during a recent Alaskan cruise on Seven Seas Mariner: “Plant-based is a movement, like a political movement. This is a new cuisine, a completely new niche.”

So after all this mouth-watering preamble, what are plant-based meals actually like?

Although the fleet’s galleys are still months away from being fully stocked for the new recipes, the affable German chef personally made this travel writer a three-course meal as close to being stamped with the leaf symbol as possible.

As an avowed meat eater, I was a little concerned. I’d read that some people who

CRUISE PLUS: FOOD

Regent Seven Seas is making nutritious changes to its fare from bow to stern.”

Plant-based dishes will be identified on Seven Seas menus with this leaf symbol starting this fall.

From far left: tofu with sweet-andsour vegetables; Hawaiian poke bowl; berry pudding; Regent Seven Seas’ Chef Schwager.

had tried committing to plant-based diets felt sluggish and lacked energy. I needn’t have worried.

Joining us at the table for this exclusive, almost-to-spec chef’s tasting menu was a third avid non-vegetarian, Vladimir Cavic, the ship’s food and beverage director.

First up was the gorgeously plated warm white and green asparagus, currently served every 14th day in the Mariner’s exquisite Compass Rose specialty restaurant and the line’s other main dining rooms.

Served with portobello and oyster mushrooms, Parisienne potatoes and sherry-vinegar dressing, the dish appears vegan, but apparently butter was used

when boiling the asparagus, sautéing the fungi and soaking the spuds. The new menu calls for the butter to be replaced with a plant-based margarine.

The dish is already fresh and light, with a dressing too delicate to dare overpower the perfectly prepared produce.

Exchanging butter for plant-based

margarine – “a simple change”, according to Chef – will not only appeal to contemporary palates and lifestyles, but also “celebrate the vegetables”.

I found the dish light, yet satisfying, on par with similar fare from Regent – which means well above average.

Next came the assorted greens and shaved fennel, a lovely salad that blends Californian and Hawaiian cuisines in its orange segments and roasted macadamianut dressing.

“What on the plate isn’t plant-based?” a diner asks. Chef replies with a devilish smile, “Nothing! This can be served exactly as is.”

The third course, a caramelised apple tart, requires longer preparation by the dedicated dessert crew. It was love at first bite for this fan.

“The apple stays the same, caramelised in the oven with the vinegar,” says Schwager.

“The goat cheese will be replaced by a plant-based cheese, made with cashew.

Like switching out butter with plant-based margarine, it’s a simple step. It’s the changes to the puff pastry that’s not easy,” he says.

Plant-based pastry dough will be placed in the freezer until set, then rolled thinly before cutting.

“This has to be done fast,” says Chef.

“The dough is so sensitive, if you make

it and don’t roll it, it doesn’t work.

And you have to roll it between two baking sheets.”

Based on everything the executive chef and his galley’s dessert station achieved in advance of the new menu’s launch, we can safely state that passengers are in for a real – and healthier – treat. cruisepassenger.com.au

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STYLE: SUSTAINABILITY Ancient Greek sandals, $256, net-a-porter.com,

Theseeke replenish balm, $39.95, theseeke.com

Auguste The Label dress, $195, augustethelabel.com

Jasmine Alexa leggings, $139.99, jasminealexa.com

take care

Fashion, skincare and accessories that look good while doing good.

Ahimsa clutch, $139, theahimsacollective.com

Veja sneakers, $135, veja-store.com

Local Supply sunglasses, $79.95, localsupply.com

S/W/F skirt, $249, swfboutique.com Cleonie Swim swimsuit, $198, cleonie.com

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STYLE: SUSTAINABILITY Reveal Bluetooth speaker, $79, amazon.com.au

■ All these products have been made with sustainability in mind. Some have been made from eco-friendly materials such as sustainably grown crops, recycled fibres or organic ingredients. Some have been made locally, supporting smaller businesses. Some have been made with the wellbeing of animals or people in mind.

Story mfg shirt, $400, mrporter.com

Mother’s Vault bamboo toothbrush, $33.34 for 4, storkz.com

Republic of Florence bag, $399, theiconic.com.au

Raw Elements sunscreen, $35, ubuy.com.au

Tommy Hilfiger T-shirt, $75, stuartslondon.com

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Toms shoes, $85, theiconic.com.au

Polo Ralph Lauren, $139, enclothing.com

Nudie Jeans trousers, $220, nudiejeans.com

cruisepassenger.com.au

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PORT SCHEDULE

Port Schedule Cruise ships calling at Australia and New Zealand, September 2019 - November 2019 ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA 25-OCT-19 1-NOV-19 10-NOV-19

SEA PRINCESS GOLDEN PRINCESS MAASDAM

PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

AIRLIE BEACH, QUEENSLAND 1-SEP-19 5-SEP-19 8-SEP-19 9-SEP-19 21-SEP-19 22-SEP-19 3-OCT-19 7-OCT-19 19-OCT-19 24-OCT-19 26-OCT-19 27-OCT-19

PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN MAJESTIC PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN CELEBRITY SOLSTICE PACIFIC DAWN RUBY PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA

P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES

ALBANY, WESTERN AUSTRALIA 22-OCT-19 7-NOV-19

SEA PRINCESS MAASDAM

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PACIFIC ARIA SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

15-SEP-19 20-SEP-19 21-SEP-19 27-SEP-19 28-SEP-19 1-OCT-19 5-OCT-19 5-OCT-19 6-OCT-19 12-OCT-19 13-OCT-19 17-OCT-19 18-OCT-19 19-OCT-19 22-OCT-19 25-OCT-19 25-OCT-19 26-OCT-19 31-OCT-19 1-NOV-19 1-NOV-19 2-NOV-19 3-NOV-19 8-NOV-19 8-NOV-19 9-NOV-19

MAJESTIC PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN SUN PRINCESS SUN PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC ARIA CELEBRITY SOLSTICE PACIFIC DAWN RUBY PRINCESS EXPLORER DREAM PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA EXPLORER DREAM PACIFIC DAWN

PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES DREAM CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES DREAM CRUISES P&O CRUISES

BURNIE, TASMANIA 27-OCT-19

PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

BRISBANE, QUEENSLAND 30-AUG-19 31-AUG-19 6-SEP-19 7-SEP-19 10-SEP-19 14-SEP-19

DATE

P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

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SEA PRINCESS

PACIFIC ARIA ISLAND SKY SEA PRINCESS CORAL DISCOVERER SUN PRINCESS MAASDAM EXPLORER DREAM PACIFIC ARIA CORAL ADVENTURER

P&O CRUISES APT TOURING PRINCESS CRUISES CORAL EXPEDITIONS PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE DREAM CRUISES P&O CRUISES CORAL EXPEDITIONS

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

DARWIN, NORTHERN TERRITORY 30-AUG-19 31-AUG-19 31-AUG-19 1-SEP-19 6-SEP-19 6-SEP-19 10-SEP-19 10-SEP-19 13-SEP-19 27-SEP-19 4-OCT-19 8-OCT-19 13-OCT-19 20-OCT-19 25-OCT-19 26-OCT-19

CORAL DISCOVERER PACIFIC DAWN LE LAPEROUSE PACIFIC DAWN CORAL ADVENTURER ISLAND SKY MAJESTIC PRINCESS MAJESTIC PRINCESS CORAL EXPEDITIONS I CORAL ADVENTURER CORAL DISCOVERER SUN PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS EXPLORER DREAM SUN PRINCESS MAASDAM

CORAL EXPEDITIONS P&O CRUISES PONANT P&O CRUISES CORAL EXPEDITIONS APT TOURING PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CORAL EXPEDITIONS CORAL EXPEDITIONS CORAL EXPEDITIONS PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES DREAM CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

EDEN, NEW SOUTH WALES 15-SEP-19 27-SEP-19

PACIFIC EXPLORER MAASDAM

P&O CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

HAMILTON ISLAND, QUEENSLAND 20-OCT-19

PRINCESS CRUISES

CAIRNS, QUEENSLAND 2-SEP-19 11-SEP-19 10-OCT-19 15-OCT-19 22-OCT-19 22-OCT-19 23-OCT-19 28-OCT-19 30-OCT-19

DATE

MAASDAM

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

HOBART, TASMANIA 15-OCT-19 27-OCT-19 29-OCT-19 4-NOV-19

MAJESTIC PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS CELEBRITY SOLSTICE RUBY PRINCESS

PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES

KANGAROO ISLAND, Â SOUTH AUSTRALIA 31-OCT-19 11-NOV-19

GOLDEN PRINCESS MAASDAM

PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

PORT SCHEDULE

The island down under

As the southern isle draws more cruise passengers than ever, Tourism Tasmania offers suggestions for the future.

T

ourism Tasmania is encouraging cruise operators to stay in port for longer, which may mean overnights for passengers to explore the region and enjoy the fine wine and whisky, cheese and amazing landscapes.

The tourism body’s new report, Blueprint for Sustainable Cruise Shipping in Tasmania, says that passengers spent $30.5 million in Tasmania during the 2018-19 wave season, and the tourism body aims to increase passenger spending to $50 million by 2022.

Other goals for 2022 outlined in the report include encouraging passengers to take more organised shore excursions – an increase from 40 to 50 per cent of cruise passengers – and getting more cruise visitors to return to Tasmania – from 10,960 returning visitors to 15,000.

DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

DATE

MELBOURNE, VICTORIA 27-OCT-19 29-OCT-19 3-NOV-19 6-NOV-19 6-NOV-19 7-NOV-19 11-NOV-19

GOLDEN PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS GOLDEN PRINCESS PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC DAWN CARNIVAL SPIRIT NOORDAM

PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

MORETON ISLAND, QUEENSLAND 4-SEP-19 7-SEP-19 2-OCT-19

PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER

P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES

NEWCASTLE, NEW SOUTH WALES 16-OCT-19 28-OCT-19 1-NOV-19 4-NOV-19 11-NOV-19

CELEBRITY SOLSTICE EXPLORER DREAM SEA PRINCESS EXPLORER DREAM EXPLORER DREAM

CELEBRITY CRUISES GENTING CRUISE LINES PRINCESS CRUISES GENTING CRUISE LINES GENTING CRUISE LINES

PERTH (FREMANTLE), WESTERN AUSTRALIA 1-OCT-19 1-NOV-19 5-NOV-19

SEA PRINCESS SUN PRINCESS MAASDAM

PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

PORT DOUGLAS, QUEENSLAND 11-SEP-19 23-SEP-19 24-SEP-19 9-OCT-19 22-OCT-19 28-OCT-19

PACIFIC DAWN MAJESTIC PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC DAWN CELEBRITY SOLSTICE RUBY PRINCESS

P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES

Left: Tasmania’s beautiful Wineglass Bay.

SHIP

The report suggests cruise lines should include Burnie in more itineraries and increase the length of time in the port to give guests the chance to see regional centres like Stanley, Wynyard, Penguin and Devonport. However it was also recommended that lines sequence their visits to minimise days when multiple ships are in the port.

Another suggestion is that cruise ships work bring local providores and artisans onboard before arrival to share stories of the regions to engage passengers and encourage them to explore more of Tasmania.

The department will develop a Region Anchorages Working Group which will look into new areas like Promise Bay, Bicheno, Swansea and Maria Island for potential East Coast anchorage points, as alternatives to remote Wineglass Bay.

CRUISE LINE

SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES 26-AUG-19 29-AUG-19 30-AUG-19 2-SEP-19 5-SEP-19 6-SEP-19 9-SEP-19 14-SEP-19 17-SEP-19 17-SEP-19 18-SEP-19 26-SEP-19 27-SEP-19 27-SEP-19 28-SEP-19 30-SEP-19 30-SEP-19 3-OCT-19 4-OCT-19 6-OCT-19 7-OCT-19 9-OCT-19 11-OCT-19 12-OCT-19 13-OCT-19 14-OCT-19 15-OCT-19 15-OCT-19 17-OCT-19 17-OCT-19 18-OCT-19 19-OCT-19 20-OCT-19 21-OCT-19 23-OCT-19 25-OCT-19 26-OCT-19 27-NOV-19 27-OCT-19 29-OCT-19 31-OCT-19

CARNIVAL SPIRIT SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER MAJESTIC PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT MAASDAM PACIFIC EXPLORER MAJESTIC PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER MAJESTIC PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER RADIANCE OF THE SEAS CELEBRITY SOLSTICE RADIANCE OF THE SEAS MAJESTIC PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT SUN PRINCESS CELEBRITY SOLSTICE MAASDAM PACIFIC EXPLORER MAJESTIC PRINCESS RADIANCE OF THE SEAS OVATION OF THE SEAS CARNIVAL SPIRIT RUBY PRINCESS GOLDEN PRINCESS RADIANCE OF THE SEAS EXPLORER DREAM CELEBRITY SOLSTICE OVATION OF THE SEAS CARNIVAL SPIRIT

CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE HOLLAND AMERICA LINE P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN CELEBRITY CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE PRINCESS CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN ROYAL CARIBBEAN CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN GENTING CRUISE LINES CELEBRITY CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE

DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

31-OCT-19 1-NOV-19 2-NOV-19 2-NOV-19 3-NOV-19 3-NOV-19 4-NOV-19 8-NOV-19 8-NOV-19 9-NOV-19 9-NOV-19 10-NOV-19 10-NOV-19 11-NOV-19

SEA PRINCESS MAJESTIC PRINCESS PACIFIC EXPLORER RUBY PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT EXPLORER DREAM RADIANCE OF THE SEAS PACIFIC EXPLORER RUBY PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT NOORDAM EXPLORER DREAM OVATION OF THE SEAS PACIFIC EXPLORER

PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE GENTING CRUISE LINES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE HOLLAND AMERICA LINE GENTING CRUISE LINES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES

THURSDAY ISLAND, QUEENSLAND 19-SEP-19 11-OCT-19

CORAL EXPEDITIONS I CORAL DISCOVERER

CORAL EXPEDITIONS CORAL EXPEDITIONS

YORKEYS KNOB, QUEENSLAND 10-SEP-19 22-SEP-19 23-SEP-19 8-OCT-19 20-OCT-19 27-OCT-19

PACIFIC DAWN MAJESTIC PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC DAWN CELEBRITY SOLSTICE RUBY PRINCESS

P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES

AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND 29-SEP-19 7-OCT-19 7-OCT-19 9-OCT-19 15-OCT-19 19-OCT-19 2-NOV-19 8-NOV-19 10-NOV-19

SEA PRINCESS MAASDAM CELEBRITY SOLSTICE MAJESTIC PRINCESS RUBY PRINCESS GOLDEN PRINCESS OVATION OF THE SEAS CELEBRITY SOLSTICE MAJESTIC PRINCESS

PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES

cruisepassenger.com.au

89

LAST WORD

Want a clean carbon footprint?

Ask a Nicaraguan farmer.

By Peter Lynch.

p

icture this: you’re at a dinner party and someone asks about your recent holiday. You tell them you flew to Barcelona and cruised the Med. An awful hush falls over the table, where only a few minutes before your hosts were being loudly commended for their fabulous lentil burgers.

Mrs Green, a neighbour and friend, shouts: “You’re an ecological vandal!”

She storms out, leaving you feeling perhaps now is not the time to pull out your iPhone and show some holiday snaps.

Flight shaming is taking off (no pun intended) in Europe, and flygskam (fleeg-skaam) – so named because it originated in Sweden – is now so prevalent that global passenger numbers are falling significantly.

Prince Harry and wife Meghan, a young couple who often talk up their environmental credentials, recently came under very public attack for taking a private jet to Spain to mark the Duchess of Sussex’s 38th birthday.

As environmental campaigners were quick to point out, the private plane created seven times more CO2 per passenger – and that includes Baby Archie and a few police protection officers – than a scheduled jet.

There are 20 daily scheduled non-stop flights from London to the well-known holiday isle of Ibiza that the family could have taken instead.

A month earlier, on his SussexRoyal Instagram account, Prince Harry had written: “With nearly 7.7 billion people inhabiting this Earth, every choice, every footprint, every action makes a difference.”

Now, activists have slammed the words as hollow, and Friends of the Earth’s Aaron Kiely said: “The Duke of Sussex speaks wonderful and stirring words on the environment and then he flies off on holiday to a European destination in a private jet. He could have taken a train and then a boat. This would have been the perfect opportunity to set an environmental example.”

One surprising advocate of the fly-less mindset is Dutch carrier KLM, which curiously is urging passengers to consider taking the train instead of their planes; a case of “double Dutch”, as one observer wryly declared.

It’s a tough one for Australians, who live on a large island girt by sea but, even here, the effects of

90

cruisepassenger.com.au

It’s time to take action.

How about buying some carbon offsets? Well, it’s not as simple as it sounds.”

environmental concerns are beginning to show. Qantas boss Alan Joyce recently warned flight capacity is down to 2017 levels, and he is worried it could decline further to 1920s levels.

“Airlines globally are aiming to halve CO2 emissions by 2050 compared to 2005 levels. From 2021, we’ll have carbon-neutral growth on international flights – the first industry to make this happen,” he said.

“Is aviation part of the problem? Yes. But we’re making good progress with solutions, and coming up with answers that are better than just ‘stop flying places’.”

We wonder how long it will be before flygskam becomes skeppskam (that’s ship shame in Swedish).

Our guess is not that long.

So, it’s time to take action. How about buying some carbon offsets? Well, it’s not as simple as it sounds.

According to consumer body Choice: “Depending on the type of project, offsetting a tonne of carbon can cost less than $10, while other projects can cost more than $50. Types of projects include methane removal, renewable energy, energy efficiency, industrial gas, forestry, and co-beneficial projects which go beyond just greenhouse gas reduction.

“Some projects have a charismatic story, but they’re the most expensive. For example, there’s a project in Kenya distributing [water filter] Life Straws. The straws save the fuel used to boil the water to clean it, but [they] are very expensive, so those offsets cost more per tonne than for a relatively low-cost wind farm.”

If this all sounds a bit complex, don’t worry. Website Co2.myclimate.org will help.

Apparently, to balance a cruise for two in a standard cabin on a mid-size ship for 15 days, I have to buy 10 tonnes of carbon offsets. The site will collect my money and put it towards projects that reduce emissions in developing countries. If I want to choose a specific project to contribute to, MyClimate offers options. How about buying more efficient cooking pots for Kenyans? Just $480. Or helping small farmers with reforestation in Nicaragua? A steal at $460.

The choice is yours. And it’s becoming increasingly easy to make the right one.

CRUISE WITH CONFIDENCE Book your next cruise holiday with a specialist travel agent accredited by the official body of the cruise industry.

Travel agents with accreditation from Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) are trained cruising experts with the most detailed and up-to-date knowledge available.

Look for the CLIA logo and travel agents that display their accreditation credentials.

Go to www.cruising.org.au to find your nearest cruise specialist agent

Ancient heartland meets

leisure afloat

Alotau

Darwin Katherine

16 nights departing 22 March 2020

Cairns

Top End & East Coast Explorer with Sea Princess® & The Ghan

Marla

Brisbane

Sydney

➤ 2 nights aboard The Ghan from Adelaide to Darwin. ➤ 4 night stay in Darwin including breakfast & transfers. ➤ Big Bus Darwin 24 hour Hop on Hop off tour. ➤ Full day Litchfield National Park Waterfalls tour. ➤ Charles Darwin Sunset Buffet Dinner Cruise. ➤ 10 nights aboard Sea Princess® cruising from Darwin to Sydney. ➤ Tour host^ Twin share from

$6,059 pp

1000

$

*

REDUCED DEPOSIT

50

$

*

Coober Pedy Fremantle

Margaret River

➤ 12 nights aboard Sea Princess cruising from Adelaide to Darwin. ➤ Half day Darwin City Sights tour. ➤ 4 night stay in Darwin including breakfast & transfers. ➤ Full day Litchfield National Park Waterfalls tour. ➤ Charles Darwin Sunset Buffet Dinner Cruise. ➤ 3 nights aboard The Ghan Expedition from Darwin to Adelaide.

Adelaide

®

100

$

Katherine

Alice Springs

Albany

Adelaide

FULLY HOSTED ^ TOUR

Broome

West Coast, The Kimberley & Top End with Sea Princess® & The Ghan

Alice Springs

Darwin

Kimberley Coast (Scenic Cruising)

19 nights departing 16 March 2020

*

TRAVEL SAVING INSURANCE PER PERSON VOUCHER

Twin share from

Cruise in style aboard Sea Princess®, explore the Top End and journey through the heart of Australia.

$7,889 pp

holidays@holidaysofaustralia.com.au or contact your local travel agent

1300 854 897

www.holidaysofaustralia.com.au Terms & Conditions: Terms & Conditions: Fares are per person in AUD based on twin share. Inclusive of all discounts, taxes, fees & port expenses if applicable which are subject to change. Prices correct as at 08.08.19. Subject to availability. Airfares, hotels & transfers are additional unless otherwise stated. ^Minimum of 20 passengers to guarantee tour host. *Save $100 per person offer is available on new bookings only and has been applied to the advertised price. $1000 reduced deposit is per person twin share, single deposit is $2000 and does not include the cost of flights, which will be additional if applicable. Valid on bookings made & deposited by 30 November 2019 subject to availability. Travel insurance voucher must be used within 7 days of booking, is valid only when booked with Holidays of Australia & the World and is not redeemable for cash or any further discounts. Cancellation charges apply. For full terms & conditions contact Holidays of Australia and the World. E&OE - HA1801