Cruise Passenger - Issue 79, Autumn 2020

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CONTENTS

cruÄąse 28 Issue 79, Autumn 2020

passenger

A U T U M N

2020

Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au Deputy editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Art director/production manager Catherine Martin Sub editor Hannah Warren

6 / The big picture 10 / Cruise news

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Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au

SHIP REVIEWS

Peter Lynch finds the new RSS ship has swapped dazzle for sophistication.

42 / Vasco da Gama

Digital manager Rupert Orchard

Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 - Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 - International cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine

61 / Subscribe & win!

36 / Seven Seas Splendor

Strategic partnerships manager Carolyn Mackley carolyn@bigsplashmedia.com.au 02 9356 8888

Contributors and writers Sue Bryant, David Dickstein, Donna Heiderstadt, Rosie Jacobs, Grant Jones, Peter Lynch, Sally Macmillan, Steve McKenna, Teresa Ooi, Vanessa Wu.

17 / First review: Scarlet Lady

The refurbished ship takes Sally Macmillan on a South Australian hop.

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Printed by Spotpress

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48 / MSC Grandiosa The newest MSC ship is as grand as her name suggests, writes Steve McKenna.

52 / Silver Muse Teresa Ooi is inspired by the culinary options aboard.

56 / Teeming River Cruise A smart, independent river cruise holds a lot of appeal for Donna Heiderstadt.

CRUISE MEDIA AUSTRALASIA

Cruise Passenger magazine is published by Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Copyright Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders.

Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided.

Always consult your travel agent.

Cover: Virgin Voyages' Scarlet Lady 4

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CRUISE PLUS

64 / Mediterranean fly-cruise

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How to get the most out of the top ten destinations in the region.

75 / Small ships Less is more when it comes to the best ships at sea.

76 / Aqua Blu An historic vessel makes for a luxurious barefoot journey around Raja Ampat.

82 / Hotel review Anantara Mai Khao Phuket is active relaxation at its finest.

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

Our cruise heroes

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84 / Airline review ScootPlus is an affordable alternative to business class – is it worth it?

OUR WINNERS

86 / Food A guide to staying in: our review of all the luxury room service menus.

88 / Wellness Find your zen at a Balinese resort.

90 / Solo no more Tips and advice to help single travellers make friends onboard.

92 / Port schedule 94 / Last word The travel experiences that don't match up to the holiday brochure.

Congratulations to the winner of our latest giveaway, Monica from Brisbane!

Monica’s reaction: “OMG! That’s incredible - I cannot believe we legit won a cruise of a lifetime to Alaska!

We've never been on a cruise so this will be a dream come true." Monica and her husband will be heading on a luxury 7-night Ponant Alaska expedition cruise.

elcome to the Autumn edition of Cruise Passenger – and to a very different world to the one we left at the close of 2019.

It may be tempting to think that coronavirus, or COVID-19, has changed travel forever, but those of us who remember SARS 17 years ago find today’s concerns all too familiar. SARS was a viral respiratory illness caused by a strain of coronavirus that was first reported in Asia in February 2003. The illness spread to more than two dozen countries before it was contained and according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, there hasn’t been a single case of SARS reported since 2004.

There is still much to know about COVID-19. But we do know that one group of people has proved essential in the battle to ensure it does not decimate a favourite form of holiday travel.

The crews of the ships involved in these outbreaks have behaved with amazing professionalism and courage, continuing to serve, cook, clean and keep essential services going at personal risk.

We’ve heard much about the passengers, who have accessed social media to tell their stories, but below decks, it is the thousand crew members aboard Diamond Princess who have proved to be among the most courageous. Cruise director Natalie Costa's Valentine’s Day video message was an extraordinary testament to her devotion and professionalism. And the cooks whose dance video went viral as they assured family and friends they were fine was just extraordinary.

Princess has promised each crew member two months paid leave for their service. We hope they get something more: recognition for the fact that they remained at their posts under the most extraordinary pressure and fear.

Smooth sailing!

Peter Lynch Publisher, Cruise Passenger

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THE BIG PICTURE

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THE BIG PICTURE

THE BIG PICTURE V A R A N A S I Three young girls with traditional Hindu face painting take a break from feeding seagulls to let Belgian photographer David Dreisse take their photo from RV Kindat during his Pandaw expedition cruise on the Upper Ganges. pandaw.com

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SAINT-TROPEZ PROVENCE (MARSEILLE) BARCELONA• IBIZA•

MONTE CARLO

TUSCANY (LIVORNO)

ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA)

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•PALERMO (SICILY) •VALLETTA

PROVENCE (MARSEILLE) •

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MONTE CARLO

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BARCELONA• ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA)

DUBROVNIK

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SORRENTO/CAPRI

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ARGOSTOLI

TAORMINA (SICILY)

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ATHENS (PIRAEUS)

• MYTILINI (LESBOS) ATHENS MYKONOS (PIRAEUS)• GYTHION•

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HERAKLION (CRETE)

EPHESUS

•(KUSADASI) •RHODES

VALLETTA

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RHODES

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ALEXANDRIA

JERUSALEM ••(HAIFA)

JERUSALEM (ASHDOD)

CruiseNews OCEAN • RIVER • ADVENTURE • PORTS

INSIDE

10 How the cruise industry is giving Australia a go.

12 Brisbane’s new port makes Queensland a cruise hub.

28 Viking Expeditions takes to the lakes (and the ice).

Viking Octantis.

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CRUISE NEWS

CRUISE TO THE RESCUE Australia is a haven for vessels caught up in Asia’s coronavirus disaster, extending our cruise season and helping regional towns affected by bush fires.

f

irst Royal Caribbean announced they were bringing the Quantum Ultra-class vessel Spectrum of the Seas to Australia and offering free cruises to bushfire heroes. Then Princess Cruises revealed Sapphire Princess will arrive in Australia six months earlier than planned. Cunard, also, has announced a 60-day extension of Queen Elizabeth’s current Australian cruise season, meaning she will stay in local waters until May 9.

There will no doubt be other lines keen to sail our waters while regions around China struggle to manage COVID-19. It could cause our year-round fleet to swell, creating a whole new reason to continue to invest in regional ports.

For cruise passengers, it means new choices at great prices, allowing Australians to take advantage of new itineraries visiting smaller ports on the NSW and Queensland coast. And for tourism operators close to ports, it will be a welcome chance to make up some of the losses brought about by the Christmas bush fires.

These two megaliners and the Queen alone represent 11,200 passengers – and based on Cruise Lines International Association’s (CLIA) figures, that’s around $3 million in onshore passenger spending per cruise day. Adding these extra weeks and months to our cruise season could boost local coffers and cash in on any reluctance to fly-cruise abroad because of fears of the coronavirus.

Katrina McAlpine, commercial director of Cunard Australia and New Zealand, said, “This extended Australia season will benefit local tourism with 29 visits to ports around the country during her additional 60-day deployment.”

Highlights are the first 27-night full circumnavigation of Australia and destinations such as Eden and Kangaroo Island, which have both welcomed cruise ship visits as a timely contribution following the bushfire emergency.

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Highlights of the new Sapphire Princess program - A three-night West Australia Getaway roundtrip sailing from Perth (Fremantle) and calling at Margaret River (Busselton). Departing May 1, fares start at $249 per person twin share.

- A 10-night Coral Coast voyage sailing from Perth (Fremantle), visiting Western Australian destinations such as Broome, Geraldton and Exmouth. Departing May 12, fares start at $699 per person twin share.

- Returning favourites include a 17-night Northern Explorer between Perth (Fremantle) and Sydney, visiting destinations such as Geraldton and Cairns.

Departing Perth (Fremantle) on June 8, fares start at $1,299 per person twin share.

Northern Explorer depatures also available from Sydney and Brisbane.

- Australia Circumnavigation voyages from Sydney, Adelaide and Perth (Fremantle) include an inaugural 29-night Round Australia cruise out of Adelaide visiting Port Lincoln, Kangaroo Island, Port Arthur, Hobart, Sydney, Brisbane, Yorkeys Knob, Alotau, Darwin, Kimberley Coast (Scenic Cruising), Broome, Geraldton, Perth (Fremantle), Margaret River (Busselton) and Adelaide.

Departing Perth (Fremantle) 10 August, fares start at $3,249 per person twin share.

- Roundtrip voyages to Fiji from Brisbane and Sydney, including a 12-night Fiji cruise sailing from Sydney visiting Dravuni Island and Lautoka departing June 25, fares start at $999 per person twin share.

PHOTOGRAPHY: TONI @ DOUBLETAKE PHOTOGRAPHICS

CRUISE NEWS

Jill Abel, CEO of the Australian Cruise Association, which represents local ports, points out the cruise sector has been sending ships to Kangaroo Island and Eden after the fires to help pump much needed tourism dollars into local businesses, and will continue to do so.

“The cruise sector has been amazing in its ability to help and we are working in a positive manner,” she said.

“Australian regions love cruise for the economic benefit it brings. We have a lot of members who would normally not get foreign visitors who may now get them.”

Princess Cruises confirmed 44 new cruises from five major Australian cities with the redeployment of Sapphire Princess in Australia. The ship, with room for 2,670 guests, will arrive six months earlier than planned to commence an extended year-long season from May 1. Sapphire Princess’s Greatest Hits program will offer a range of itineraries and will inject close to $140 million dollars into the economy, according to the company.

Princess Cruises’ Asia Pacific senior vice president Stuart Allison said, “With the ongoing uncertainty of travel restrictions and port closures in Asia impacting our cruise operations in the region, we hope that this extended deployment in Australia will benefit local tourism, particularly in regional areas with 102 visits to regional ports around the country during her yearlong deployment.”

Above: Voyager of the Seas docked in Eden. Below: a market stall of local oysters, near Eden.

He also said there would be special launch fares for cruises departing within the next three to six months.

Sapphire Princess will arrive into Perth (Fremantle) following a multi-million dollar refurbishment and her year-long program will include 19 maiden calls along Western Australia’s coast, and an inaugural Australia circumnavigation voyage sailing Adelaide roundtrip with similar options from Fremantle and Sydney.

Of course, the biggest news is the arrival of the Quantum Ultra-class Spectrum of the Seas, ostensibly to reward bushfire heroes for their tireless and difficult work with complimentary cruises sailing from Sydney.

“We are in a fortunate position to offer these brave and selfless members of the Australian community the opportunity to join us for a few days and let them relax and unwind in the company of other volunteers and first responders,” said Michael Bayley, president and CEO of Royal Caribbean International.

“By welcoming and accommodating them aboard Spectrum of the Seas, we hope to recognise their contribution and offer them our hospitality.”

The relocation also has another benefit. Spectrum of the Seas, which has been virtually idle since the virus, is part of a major push to change the narrative about cruise ships and coronavirus. Bayley was at pains to make it clear Spectrum of the Seas has not been in China for more than two weeks, which makes the ship safe from the risk of possibly transporting coronavirus.

Royal Caribbean is also planning to move a ship to China to offer complimentary sailings to first responders and medical personnel to thank them for their heroic efforts in dealing with the virus, once the medical situation eases. Further details of the cruises and itineraries are still being worked out.

Further afield, Celebrity Cruises has announced it intends to use Celebrity Millennium for a series of three-, four- and five-night Cruising for Heroes sailings on the along with west coast of the US in March and April in support of California’s firefighters, first responders and veterans.

CRUISE NEWS

Stringent measures make health top priority Words Joel Katz

T

he coronavirus outbreak is undoubtedly a major challenge for the tourism industry worldwide, but having moved quickly and decisively in response, the global cruise industry has put in place comprehensive measures designed to ensure the health and safety of passengers and crew remains the top priority.

In some cases this has meant disruption as cruise lines adjust itineraries and divert operations from China or other parts of Asia, but the result is a robust approach that reassures travellers.

While the prominent case in Japan has been a difficult situation, it was managed carefully from the start by Japanese health authorities in close co-operation with the cruise line, with guests’ health and comfort of utmost importance.

The majority of cruise ships globally continue to sail unaffected, including within Australasia, but with strict precautions in place.

CLIA ocean cruise line members, which represent approximately 95 per cent of global cruise capacity, agreed to a set of enhanced screening measures within hours of the World Health Organization (WHO) declaring COVID-19 a global health emergency. Some of these measures go beyond what is done in other sectors and by the Australian government. They allow cruise lines to determine a person’s travel and contact history and deny boarding to anyone who may present an increased risk. No passengers or crew who have come from or visited China, including Hong Kong and Macau, are permitted to board.

CLIA and cruise lines are in close consultation with health authorities around the world, including the WHO and Australia’s Department of Health.

They continue to monitor the situation closely and can modify policies if necessary.

The reality is that the cruise industry is one of the most well-equipped and experienced when it comes to managing the health of passengers and crew. Unlike other modes of transport or acommodation, cruise ships are required to have well-equipped, dedicated medical facilities and medical professionals onboard and available 24/7.

The cruise industry is a responsive, resilient and responsible sector, and one that will remain focused on guests’ health and safety at every step of the way.

Joel Katz is managing director Australasia and Asia Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) 12

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The Queensland capital’s new port is set to make the sunshine state a centre for cruise growth, reports Vanessa Wu. This year is gearing up to be huge for Queensland cruising, with the new cruise facility at Luggage Point in Brisbane playing host to two new ships, Carnival Cruise Line’s Carnival Spirit and Royal Caribbean’s Radiance of the Seas. Elsewhere in the country, a flood of ships is moving to local waters from Asia, and overseas the lines are debuting longer itineraries and new exotic ports.

CLOSE TO HOME / P&O Cruises Pacific Aria sails out of Auckland for the first half of the year and debuts a 14-night Bounty Adventure Auckland roundtrip cruise to the Pacific Islands in July. The line is also making its first sailing to the Melbourne International Comedy Festival this year.

Clockwise from above: Brisbane River; the Imperial City, Hue, Vietnam; Petra, Jordan.

/ Princess Cruises Princess Cruises has a new 14-night Adelaide roundtrip itinerary on Sea Princess with a maiden call to Eden, NSW

Eclipse will arrive in Port Phillip Bay for her first homeport stay in Melbourne. From here, it will sail Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific on cruises ranging from 11 to 14 nights long.

FURTHER AFIELD / Ponant The line is launching a new eight-day itinerary from Alaska to British Columbia.

There are also more than 15 new itineraries in Northern Europe. In December, Le Lapérouse will debut a new sailing from Mumbai heading for the Maldives and concluding in Sri Lanka. Le Bougainville will also launch a selection of new expeditions to the Seychelles in December.

BRISBANE: BIG IN

2020

plus stops in Burnie, Hobart, Eden, Sydney, Newcastle, Brisbane and Melbourne.

The Eastern & Southern Explorer itinerary departs November 16. / Carnival Cruise Line Carnival Spirit will be the newest and largest ship in the homeport of Brisbane, beginning October. The ship will debut new week-long itineraries to the Pacific Islands, visiting Espiritu Santo and Mystery Island in Vanuatu. / Oceania Cruises Oceania will be making maiden calls to Mooloolaba and Port Lincoln in Australia, as well as New Zealand’s remote port of Whangarei. / Regent Seven Seas The Most Luxurious Ship Ever Built, Seven Seas Explorer, is calling at local ports including Sydney and Auckland for the first time on itineraries such as the 14-night Sydney to Auckland Majesty of Milford cruise.

/ Silversea Cruises Silver Muse is embarking on a 51-day circumnavigation of Australia and New Zealand roundtrip from Sydney. The line is also launching four exclusive sub-Antarctic voyages departing December 2020 and February 2021 round-trip from Dunedin visiting destinations including Ulva Island, Stewart Island, The Snares, Enderby Island and the Auckland Islands archipelago. / Royal Caribbean The line is returning to Brisbane in November after a three-year hiatus with the homeporting of the 2,400-passenger Radiance of the Seas who arrives in Queensland fresh from a multi-million dollar makeover. Her schedule includes week-long South Pacific itineraries, sampler cruises and a seven-night Queensland sailing. / Celebrity Cruises Fresh from a refurbishment and after a 13-night cruise via New Zealand, Celebrity

/ Regent Seven Seas Seven Seas Voyager is visiting multiple new ports in Italy in 2020 – Lecce, Crotone, Siracusa, Porto Empedocle and Porto Torres – as well as Cabo Frio in Brazil. The line is also launching four new Grand Voyages: a 91-Night Arctic Discovery, 68-Night Cape Horn Adventure, 76-Night Spice Route Quest and 61-Night Asia Exploration. / Viking Viking has two new month-long voyages, including the 30-day Mumbai to Mediterranean Passage that visits exotic destinations such as Oman, Jordan and Egypt before exploring Mediterranean classics including Malta, Italy, Spain and Portugal. Viking has also released details of its 2020/21 world cruise with new port calls including Oahu and Kauai, Hawaii; Moorea, French Polynesia; and Hue, Vietnam. / Oceania Cruises This year, Regatta is offering more and longer Alaskan voyages. The line will also be visiting 12 new ports of call this year, including Maceio, Brazil; Puerto Plata, and the Dominican Republic, and Insignia will be sailing two new voyages, including New York to Reykjavik and vice versa.

For more news about itineraries go to cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS

Why the ice is so hot The poles are drawing cruisers in record numbers.

Guests on Silversea's Silver Whisper and Silver Cloud catch a glimpse of whales in Antarctica.

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By the beginning of this year, Aurora Expeditions had already sold all their Antarctica voyages for 2020, and more than 85 per cent of sailings for 2021 are already gone. Further north, in the Arctic, 97 per cent of their sailings are sold out for the year, while half have been booked for 2021.

The story is the same for many adventure cruise lines, with the demand for icy expedition cruises running at unprecedented levels.

The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators says 40,665 tourists arrived in Antarctica in the 2018-2019 season from November to March, 60 per cent more than the 25,341 who landed in 2014-15.

According to luxury travel advisors, the increase in popularity among high-end travellers is down to the remoteness of Antarctica and the Arctic and the exclusivity of the vessels, which gives guests bragging rights at dinner parties. Albert Herrera, the senior vice president of global product partnerships at luxury travel company Virtuoso, said the Arctic has become the high-end version of a big Alaska cruise.

Seabourn president Rick Meadows said that the appeal, especially for a millennial market, is being able to say you’ve been to these amazing destinations.

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“Experience, that’s become the currency,” he told Bloomberg. “People want stories to tell their friends and family – to say, ‘We went to Greenland and saw all these things’ to a room full of people who have not had that experience.”

To keep up with demand, the cruise industry is scheduling more itineraries and building more ships.

But compared to the intrepid Russian ice breakers that explorers once had to sail on, modern expeditions ships are comfortable and luxurious.

Just this year, Viking announced plans to enter the expedition market in 2022, French line Ponant will be sailing eight luxurious expedition ships by 2021, and Crystal Endeavor, due later this year, will be kitted out with ice-friendly toys like submarines and helicopters.

Lindblad is offering more than 25 itineraries to Arctic destinations in 2020 while Silversea, which has seen a more than 100 per cent increase in bookings in the last five years, now have expedition world cruises.

Shorter Arctic cruises are now increasingly available, which means they are accessible to a wider demographic as traditionally, the two week-plus itineraries have meant incredibly high price tags.

But even though more ships are heading to the polar regions and offering shorter itineraries, don’t bet on the route ever being available as a budget trip. Tom Merchant from luxury travel company Black Tomato told Business Insider he doesn't believe the price point will ever change. “At the end of the day, it’s a very remote, hard to access, wild and extreme environment.”

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Contact your Travel Agent or our PONANT Cruise Consultants on: 1300 737 178 | reservations.aus@ponant.com | au.ponant.com All advertised prices are based on the Ponant Bonus fare per person, in Australian Dollars, based on a double occupancy, including port taxes and transfer (port to Broome town/airport), yield managed, correct at time of writing - 10/02/2020. Prices are subject to availability and can be changed at any time. Terms and Conditions apply, refer to au.ponant. com for more information. # Source: NABU Ranking 2019. * Ponant Bonus discount subject to change based on availability. ^ Welcome Offer is in Australian Dollars (AUD), per stateroom based on double occupancy. Offer valid for guests travelling with PONANT for the first time. Offer is not redeemable for cash, not retroactive, and not combinable with any other offers, except the Ponant Bonus and Single Traveller Offers. Valid for new bookings only and available until further notice but can be changed or be withdrawn at any time. Conditions apply. Refer to au.ponant.com for T&Cs. Photographs © PONANT Nick Rains. ABN: 35 166 676 517.

AUSTRALIA CRUISERS’ CHOICE

CRUISE NEWS

LOVE IS IN THE AIR Australia’s only dedicated cruise wedding planner, P&O’s Natasha Bhan, will celebrate her 500th event this year. And it’s set to be a busy 12 months – so far for 2020, she has 70 ceremonies at sea booked.

From the many couples she has met, her favourite would have to be two childhood sweethearts.

“Corey and Belinda de Bruyn met in primary school, had two beautiful little boys and became engaged.

Neither of them had been on a cruise before but decided that getting married onboard a ship was for them,” Ms Bhan said.

“They had joked about having their wedding on a cruise because they wanted something different but had no idea it was even possible and that’s when they got in touch with me. The de Bruyn’s wedding was our very first ceremony on flagship Pacific Explorer. Corey and Belinda became cruise converts and have been sailing with us ever since.

“Ceremonies are such a memorable and emotional experience for our guests. It is something couples cherish forever and to be able to bring that to life for them is an amazing thing.”

If you’re thinking about planning your wedding or vow renewal on a ship, P&O’s weddings start at $2,500 for the ceremony, photography, cake and flowers – plus the memories that last a lifetime.

P&O Cruise Wedding Package inclusions:

Corey and Belinda de Bruyn's onboard wedding ceremony. Above: Natasha Bahn.

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- Priority check-in - Ceremony venue – inside or outside - Rose bouquet and buttonholes - Photography - Wedding cake - Sparkling wine for the toast - Commemorative wedding certificate - Dinner in Salt grill by Luke Mangan or equivalent - Reserved group seating for evening dinner - Light refreshments in the bridal room on arrival - Complimentary take home robes - Spa treatment to the value of $170

CRUISE NEWS

Bring on the bling The Scarlet Lady has made her virgin voyage. Sue Bryant is aboard to see if the new ship really is a rulebreaker.

The wait is over. Virgin Voyages’ relentlessly hyped Scarlet Lady has made her debut. For years now, we’ve heard Virgin founder Richard Branson talking about ripping up the rulebook and making cruising cool. But has he succeeded?

First impression: All battleship grey and scarlet, the ship certainly looks hip, although it’s an unusual shape. The superstructure is rounded at the back so it resembles a Miami condo plonked on top of a floating platform.

The adults-only ship appears to have been designed for Instagram, with every single space styled and structured, from the elliptical staircase that sweeps down into the main lobby to the mirrored corridor, lit by hundreds of pinprick lights, that leads to the nightclub, The Manor.

Neon memes adorn walls, often with saucy innuendo, like the ice-cream

+ The verdict

HIGHS: Lots included – all restaurants, wi-fi, workout classes and tips. Edgy design and hopping nightlife, with a sense that anything goes.

LOWS: Stark cabins and some spaces feel over-designed.

VERDICT: A ship for the style-conscious – but not the shy and retiring.

bar’s: “Lick me till Ice Cream”.

I was surprised at how industrial Scarlet Lady felt. It’s not a cosy ship. Parts feel almost stark. I like the big, circular portholes and abundance of gleaming chrome, both of which evoke a sense of nostalgia. Some much-anticipated features were smaller than I’d expected; the Voyage Vinyl record store is just a few shelves by the DJ booth, for example.

Here’s what I did like. Scarlet Lady will be perfect for fitness buffs; the gym is enormous and there’s a big space on Deck 17 for outdoor yoga as well as a boxing ring and outdoor gym equipment. The bright red running track is on stilts and encircles Deck 17; perfect for a stroll, even if you don’t run.

The spa is beautiful, with a vast thermal suite of heated-stone lounging spaces, a small pool, a glass-walled sauna and a mud room. It’s expensive, though; a 50-minute massage costs $235 and a thermal suite pass on a sea day is a whopping $190, or $115 on a port day.

The Red Room theatre was exceptional, the shows genuinely edgy. We saw Duel Reality, an astonishingly athletic dance performance loosely based on Romeo and Juliet, with trapeze and a gravity-defying acrobatic sequence on a seesaw.

The nightclub, The Manor, is extremely cool, spanning two decks with a thumping sound system. Late at night, it was packed with the ship’s resident drag queens.

Other aspects are not so hot. Branson claims to have banished the buffet but The Galley, a “food hall concept”, offers tacos, burgers and wraps from different serving stations and isn’t even as nice as some ships’ actual buffets. The main pool – the only pool, really, as the other one on deck, is a whirlpool – is tiny. It’s got a massive surround, presumably for posing on (more Instagramming) but you couldn’t do laps.

I think the cabins will appeal more to younger cruisers than Gen X; they don’t whisper ‘luxury’, even though this ship is priced at the top end of the premium lines.

Done out in grey, white and red, they have a minimalist feel – hipster, maybe, but boutique, no. There’s a weird setup whereby the bed splits in two, one section flush against the wall and the other becoming a kind of day bed. The bathrooms are tiny; I heard one passenger, sorry, Sailor, as Virgin Voyages calls its customers, comparing hers to an aeroplane loo. The hammocks on the balconies are a nice touch, though.

This ship has real millennial appeal – the communal feel of a lot of the dining venues, the lounging spaces, the hip restaurants like the Korean barbecue that promises noisy drinking games, bottomless brunches, drag queens and a tattoo parlour.

See virginvoyages.com Above: The glittering entrance to The Manor nightclub. Below: A 'sailor' on the running track.

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ADVERTORIAL

Katarina Line is best known for small-ship cruises around its home country, but the line offers plenty more on land and sea.

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f you’re seeking an immersive way to explore the stunning natural environment and historical Mediterranean towns of Croatia, look no further than Katarina Line.

The region’s premier small-ship cruise company offers weekly departures from the end of April to mid-October from the major tourist centers of Opatija in Kvarner area, and Split and Dubrovnik in Dalmatia.

With a fleet of more than 60 ships, the line caters to all ages and budgets on itineraries that takes travellers from one island to another in relaxed style. This unique way of travelling and exploring coastal towns is one of the most popular and easiest ways to experience the true Croatia.

In addition to cruises, Katarina Line also provides excellent small-group land programs

to explore the interior of the country. A favourite is the Croatian Rhapsody program, which starts in Zagreb, Croatia’s capital and ends in Dubrovnik in the south. This tour, which includes a unique gastronomy and wine experience package, is absolutely the best way to see the inland regions of Croatia from top to toe.

Katarina Line also offers a wide range of accommodation options in all regions of Croatia and neighbouring countries, and organises excellent shore excursions for visitors arriving in the country on cruise liners.

With 28 years of experience, an experienced team of dedicated travel professionals provides impeccable service and expertise, and is continually developing unique, beautifully crafted tours on land and sea.

CROATIA calling

Cruise highlights Natural gems Witness spectacular coastlines and landscapes as you explore the many hidden islands and bays of the Croatian coastline.

Historic sites Discover the cultural and historical parts of Croatia, including centuries-old palaces and small villages, guided by local experts.

Intimate experiences Katarina Line is a small-ship cruise line, specialising in small group travel and offering luxury intimate vessels for a more bespoke experience on any budget.

B

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regal & majestic princess ®

Sailing from Sydney in Summer 2020/2021 for our biggest season ever!

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Cruise 13 nights from

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Regal Princess ® is MedallionClassTM enabled *Fare is cruise only, based on lead interior stateroom on 13 night Australia & New Zealand sailing from Auckland to Sydney, departing 10 Dec 2020 onboard Majestic Princess. To be read in conjunction with the Booking and Passage Conditions available at princess.com/legal/passage_contract

CRUISE NEWS

GOOP DOWN UNDER Fancy taking to the seas with Gwyneth Paltrow? Here’s what it’ll set you back.

Actor and self-proclaimed wellness guru Gwyneth Paltrow has announced her very own wellness cruise in partnership with Celebrity Cruises.

Goop at Sea, named for Gwyneth's controversial lifestyle website, goop, departs Barcelona on August 26 for 11 nights in the Mediterranean on Celebrity Apex.

If a trip to Europe would interfere with your vaginal steaming (ask Gwyneth, it's a thing), don't fret. Celebrity Cruises has confirmed they are considering bringing goop at Sea Down Under, so you can get your wellness fix in local waters.

But is an audience with Gwyneth worth the cost of a $7400-plus suite on a cruise as well as the $1100 goop at Sea ticket?

The major point of contention is that only suite class guests have access to Gwyneth’s goop classes. Those in ordinary cabins can’t join in even if they are prepared to pay the $1100.

Gwyneth’s tour comes in footsteps of Oprah Winfrey’s O, The Oprah Magazine Girls’ Getaway Cruise, a three-day roundtrip from Florida that sold out in 24 hours and sailed in January last year on Holland America. During the cruise, Oprah ran three sessions that were available as a complimentary add on for cruisers sailing in any class of cabin, and appeared around the ship to talk to fans.

In contrast, during goop at Sea, Suite Class guests who purchase tickets for the day-long event – yes, $1100 for the day – can expect a roster of what goop calls “trailblazing healers”, transformative 20

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Above: Gwyneth Paltrow. Below: a pot of goop body scrub will set you back $60.

workshops for mind, body and soul, and an intimate inconversation between goop chief content officer Elise Loehnen and Gwyneth. Outside of that, Gwyneth will not be making any appearances.

So, after Gwyneth takes a moment to welcome everyone and talk about herself, her journey of selfdiscovery, what she had for breakfast and where she’s headed next (straight back to her secluded penthouse suite), her personal healers and wellness practitioners will guide you through a series of sessions aimed at blowing your mind – and your budget.

Although goop at Sea only lasts one day, Celebrity promises the rest of the cruise will be full of plenty of “goopy” perks, a special dining menu curated by goop’s food editor and amenities exclusively for ticket holders.

Tickets for goop at Sea tickets went on sale in January and are still available for guests who book suite class accommodation on Celebrity Apex, starting at $7400 per person twin share.

Celebrity Cruises' mindful updates Perhaps inspired by Gwyneth Paltrow's self-improvement mantras, Celebrity Cruises is refurbishing its fleet, to bring older ships in line with the high-tech Celebrity Edge. The Celebrity Revolution refit program saw Millennium, Summit and Equinox refitted last year, and will see Silhouette, Constellation and Infinity upgraded this year. In 2021, Solstice-class ships Eclipse, due to be homeported in Melbourne, and Solstice, based in Sydney, will debut their new looks, giving Australian cruisers a taste of the Edge-class vessels.

Inaugural Voyages cruıse

EXPERIENCE CMV’S NEWEST SHIP

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Havre Baie-Comeau St. Pierre Corner Saguenay Brook St. John’s Quebec MONTREAL

Charlottetown Halifax

Sydney (Nova Scotia) Cap aux Meules

LONDON (Tilbury) Odessa Constanta Nessebar Messina (Sicily) Istanbul ATHENS (Piraeus) Palermo Seville Gibraltar Valletta Limassol Haifa (Cadiz) Port Said Vigo Lisbon

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stay on board and extend your escape

• Traditional cruise experience • Classic 1,450 guest ship • Six dining venues, including three specialty restaurants*

MEET CMV’s • Eleven lounges and bars • Two-tiered theatre and spacious pool deck • British Pounds used onboard AMY JOHNSON # • Enriching guest speakers, captain’s cocktail parties and daytime activities

FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL 1300 307 934 | VISIT CMVAUSTRALIA.COM | CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT Terms & Conditions: *Supplements apply for specialty dining. #Captain’s Cocktail Parties available on cruise 6 nights or longer. Fares shown are per person, twin-share in AUD, and include port taxes, government charges (including GST when applicable) and promotional discounts. Prices differ for triple or quad-share. Prices and cabin availability correct as at 10/02/20 and may be withdrawn or changed at any time. Offers valid for new bookings only and are not combinable with any other offers or promotions. Prices are governed by the CMV terms and conditions. Gratuities and compulsory travel insurance not included. Amendment/cancellation fees and booking conditions apply. E&OE. For full terms and conditions that apply, visit CMVAustralia.com. AD200309_CruisePass_FP

CRUISE NEWS

Ultra-luxury travel company Belmond will sail a food-themed French barge cruise that will take guests to six Michelinstarred restaurants, one for every night.

The Epicurean Burgundy itinerary sails from St-Jean-de-Losne to Lyon on Belmond Napoleon, the largest in Belmond’s fleet with six cabins for 12 passengers.

Although the ship is a luxurious haven, the real stars of the voyage are the Michelin-starred restaurants, which boast a cumulative 12 stars, including two venues with three Michelin stars – the highest honour a restaurant can receive in the Michelin Guide.

The first stop of the cruise is for a two-Michelin-starred lunch at La Côte Saint-Jacques, in a five-star retreat on the River Yonne, just outside of Auxerre.

Chef Jean-Michel Lorain conjures up playful and surprising dishes, putting quality ingredients in the spotlight. His specialities include a rosette of lobster and fresh palm nut salad, and an egg parfait with white Alba truffles and puy green lentils.

The next day, further down the River Saone to Seurre, where guests will disembark to visit the first three-Michelinstarred restaurant, Maison Lameloise in Chagny. Lunch features the best of local traditional food, such as the Burgundy snail tart, among the stone and wooden beams that honour Burgundian heritage.

Guests will spend the third morning exploring Beaune, the wine capital of 22

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Is this the ultimate foodie river cruise?

From top: a meal at Aux Terrasses; a creative dessert at Aux Terrasses; Belmond Napoleon.

Burgundy, before lunch at one-star Le Jardin des Remparts, which serves modern dishes that feature seasonal and locally-sourced produce.

On day four, guests will enjoy dinner at Aux Terrasses, a restaurant in a boutique hotel in Tournus where chef Jean-Michel Carrete serves bold dishes like charcoalgrilled octopus and smoked pigeon.

The next day, guests can look forward to the second three-star restaurant of the itinerary, the world-famous Restaurant Georges Blanc in Vonnas. The restaurant has kept its three Michelin stars since 1981 thanks to its menu of classic dishes revisited in impeccable style – think Bresse chicken reimagined and the Vonnas-style potato pancakes Blanc’s grandmother used to make.

The final stop is Lyon and Restaurant Paul Bocuse, holder of two Michelin stars.

The highlight dish here is the black truffle soup that was created for French president Valéry Giscard d’Estaing in 1975.

Naturally, all onboard meals and beverages will be of the highest quality, and additional shore excursions include wine tastings, visits to Roman ruins and ancient castles, and shopping excursions.

The cruise departs on August 9 and you can sail this superstar culinary journey from $11,955pp.

THE SEA AT ITS MOST

VENICE France

GENOA (Portofino)

MARSEILLE (Provence) BARCELONA Spain

Starting from

AU $3,168 pp*

Mediterranean Sea

Italy

KOTOR Montenegro BARI

NAPLES (Pompeii) MESSINA (Taormina) Malta VALLETTA

Greece CEFALONIA MYKONOS SANTORINI

ADVERTORIAL

Australia fair When it comes to our own country there’s a lot to love but some of our natural wonders and must-see icons are challenging and time-consuming to reach – cruise and rail holidays are the solution.

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journey of our spectacular rugged coast lines and vast outback interiors is made possible thanks to cruise and rail holidays. This style of travel is an incredibly efficient way to experience many of Australia’s bucket list items in the one, relaxing holiday.

The stunning Kimberley Coast, undoubtedly one of the country’s best hidden treasures, takes pride of place in the northern part of Western Australia. It’s more than 12,800 kilometres of ruggedly beautiful coastline so unspoiled that the Kimberley Coast has been identified as one of the least impacted marine environments in the world. It’s not a destination everyone has been to, with just a conservative number of visitors each year – but those who have been count themselves lucky.

Further east, the Northern Territory is famed for its natural splendour and provides the perfect place to explore the historic Aboriginal culture, unique flora and fauna and some of Australia’s most stunning waterfalls.

The national parks here are excellent, from the tropical goodness of Mother Nature in Litchfield National Park to one of the most diverse landscapes in Australia, Kakadu National Park, home to some of the nation’s 24

Above: Western Beach, Kooljaman at Cape Leveque, Western Australia, Below: divers with a huge groper at Moore Reef, Queensland.

T pp ii most stunning views and impressive Aboriginal rock art galleries, believed to be more than 20,000 years old.

Cruising the East Coast brings you to some of Australia’s hottest holiday destinations in Far North Queensland and, of course, the gateway to two of Australia’s great natural wonders. Just offshore, immense bastions of living coral form one of the seven wonders of the natural world, the Great Barrier Reef. On land lies the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Daintree National Park where the rainforest meets the reef in a way that’s unlike anywhere else on the planet.

Our own backyard can tick off so many iconic boxes, tempt our tastebuds with world-class food and wine and offer incredible experiences which both respect and celebrate our beautiful country.

Travel inspiration is quite literally right under our noses, offering a lifetime of unforgettable experiences – no passport required.

Call Holidays of Australia & the World on 1300 854 897 or visit holidaysofaustralia.com.au

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M11558 H

The green pioneer pioneer iiss here here The future of exploration travel Hurtigruten is an expedition company is the truest sense of the word. With more than 127 years experience, our mission is to bring adventurers to distant corners of the world in the most sustainable way possible. Sail with us on our two new state-of-the-art hybrid powered expedition ships – MS Roald Amundsen and MS Fridtjof Nansen – and experience a new benchmark in sustainability and premium expedition cruising.

Alaska & Canada | Antarctica | Europe | Greenland | Iceland North, Central & South America | Northwest Passage | Norway | Svalbard

go to hurtigruten.com.au or call 1300 159 871 M11558 HUR Cruise Passenger Mag FP v3.indd 1

5/02/2020 14:46

CRUISE NEWS

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ARANUI TO BUILD PASSENGER SHIP Adventure and expedition line Aranui is set to build a new ship, bound for the southern part of Tahiti. AraMana, meaning “path of the Polynesian spirit” is due to launch mid 2022. It will be the cruise line’s first passenger-only vessel – sister ship Aranui 5 serves as a cargo vessel that also carries passengers – and will feature a vahine (Polynesian woman) on the funnel and a traditional design on her livery, a nod to the region she will cruise in.

In line with Aranui’s aim of offering an authentic Polynesian experience, AraMana will have an onboard tattoo room, a Polynesian crew and an itinerary that includes islands other lines don’t visit.

While Aranui 5 continues its regular 13-day itinerary and cargo delivery to the remote Marquesas Islands, the 140-metre AraMana will cruise to French Polynesia’s Tuamotu, Gambier, Society and Austral Islands as well as Pitcairn and the Cook Islands.

Coral Expeditions heads to the East Indies

CMV’S NEW SHIPS NAMED FOR FEMALE PIONEERS Cruise & Maritime Voyages' two new ships, due 2021, will be named after pioneering female explorers Amy Johnson and Ida Pfeiffer. CMV has expanded its fleet to eight vessels with the acquisition of Pacific Dawn and Pacific Aria from P&O Cruises Australia. CMV invited social media followers to choose a name for Pacific Dawn, which will take over from Columbus as its flagship offering year-round cruises from Tilbury. From the five options – including Gertrude Bell, Isabella Bird, Mary Kingsley and Lady Hester – 41 per cent voted for Amy Johnson, the English pilot who was the first woman to fly solo from London to Australia in 1931, at age 27. Pacific Aria will take the name Ida Pfeiffer, after an Austrian explorer and ethnographer who wrote books about her round-the-world travels in the mid 1800s.

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Coral Expeditions will sail the East Indies in 2021 with seven expeditions exploring small islands such as Misool in Raja Ampat, Alor in the Lesser Sundas, and Bunton in Sulawesi.

The new collection of voyages exploring the history, culture and wildlife of the region will be serviced by the 120-guest ship launched last April, Coral Adventurer. Three brand new sailings – the 10-night Island Realms of the East Indies from Darwin to Bali, the 10-night Ancient Kingdoms of the East Indies from Bali to Singapore and the 14-night Into the Wilds of Borneo from Singapore to Makassar – start at $8,200pp twin share.

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20051 Cru

FIND FREEDOM IN THE FARTHEST REACHES

SMALL ISLANDS OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC 3,000 miles away from New Zealand, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, lies Pitcairn Island. Blessed with the bluest seas and the clearest stars, Pitcairn was where the mutineers from the HMAS Bounty retreated to in 1790, confident they would not be found by the far-ranging British Navy. Join us aboard state-of-the-art new expedition ship Coral Geographer as we sail across the vast Pacific Ocean, through remote Wallis and Futuna, the Cook Islands, legendary Bora Bora and the Marquesas to the last outpost of Pitcairn Island.

Tuamotus, Pitcairn & the Austral Islands > 20 Nights, 19 Nov 2021 The Solomons to Samoa > 15 Nights > 21 Oct 2021 Samoa to the Society Islands > 14 Nights > 5 Nov 2021 The Tuamotus & Marquesas > 14 Nights > 10 Dec 2021

We follow in the footsteps of the ancient Polynesians who navigated across the Pacific guided only by stars, wind, clouds and birds. With only 120 like-minded guests and accompanied by local experts, our expeditions offer an intimate, all-inclusive and insightful way to explore these far-flung islands. Find freedom in the farthest reaches with Coral Expeditions.

call 1800 079 545 visit coralexpeditions.com email explore@coralexpeditions.com

20051 Cruise Passenger FP South Pacific 3.0.indd 1

18/2/20 2:42 pm

CRUISE NEWS

VIKING TAKES TO THE LAKES The Norwegian line is joining the growing expedition trend.

With more cruisers looking for adventure voyages, Viking has announced a new expedition line and new sailings.

Viking Expeditions will launch its first purpose-built vessel, Viking Octantis, in January from Ushuaia, Argentina, for an Antarctica sailing. It will then sail North America’s Great Lakes, visiting the US states of Michigan, Minnesota and Wisconsin, and the Canadian province of Ontario.

Octantis will be followed in August 2022

by Viking Polaris, which will sail Antarctica and the Arctic.

The ships will have their own laboratories, where scientists from the University of Cambridge and Cornell University, as well as researchers from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, will join expeditions to educate guests about climate, weather and ecosystems.

Octantis and Polaris can accommodate 378 guests in sleek Scandanavian surrounds, in line with Viking’s existing ocean and river vessels.

Here are a few of the features we're looking forward to:

/ The Laboratory Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris will also function as working research vessels with an onboard team of Viking Resident Scientists working on a variety of studies. Guests will have supervised access to The Laboratory, located in a glass-enclosed mezzanine above The Hangar, to learn from and help scientists undertaking primary research, an experience unique to Viking.

/ The Hangar The ships will have internal marinas, from which to launch the submarines, military zodiacs and Arctic-tested kayaks. To equip them for adventures off the ship, guests will be given a special Viking Expedition kit, which will contain items like boots, binoculars and waterproof pants.

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CRUISE NEWS

/ Accommodation All staterooms will feature a Nordic Balcony, a sunroom with floor-to-ceiling, distortion-free windows at the very edge of the ship that converts into an al fresco viewing platform. Towards the upper end of the scale, the ships will have expansive Nordic Junior Suites and Explorer Suites, but the crème de la crème of accommodation will be the Owner’s Suite, which at 1,223 sq. ft, is twice the size of the Explorer Suites. It will have a living room with six-seat dining table and a separate bedroom – as well as a private garden area with a traditional Norwegian hot tub.

/ The Aula & Finse Terrace

/ Sustainability

A new addition to the Viking fleet are The Aula and Finse Terrace. The Aula is an auditorium for entertainment and lectures, with floor-to-ceiling windows and 270-degree views. Adjacent to The Aula through sliding glass walls is the Finse Terrace, an outdoor lounge with couches and lava rock firepits where guests can be immersed in nature.

The ships will have a straight bow design that reduces fuel consumption, and a positioning system enables the ship to hover over the seabed without anchoring, which limits damage to seabeds.

cruisepassenger.com.au

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RIVER CRUISE NEWS

CRYSTAL’S SPARKLING EUROPEAN ITINERARIES Crystal River Cruises has revealed its 2022 European itineraries, with maiden visits to ports including Vidin, Bulgaria and Giurgiu, Romania, and more seven-night itineraries than ever. Plenty of themed sailings are on offer; both Crystal Bach and Crystal Mahler will feature Wine and Food Festival programs offering onboard cooking classes with guest chefs and experiences ashore exploring local specialties. Crystal Ravel will offer Jewish Heritage voyages, highlighting pivotal sites along the Danube that have shaped Jewish culture.

In spring, Crystal Bach will sail Tulips and Windmills voyages to the Netherlands and Belgium, showcasing the famed fields of blooms and countryside windmill farms. During the winter holidays, from late November through December, all four Crystal ships will visit the fairytale Christmas markets of the region.

Heritage Line bound for Laos Luxury cruise operator Heritage Line has announced the deployment of their first boat to the upper Mekong river. Anouvong, due to launch in September, will ply the section of the Mekong between the Lao capital Vientiane, the royal city of Luang Prabang and the ThailandLaos border. Heritage Line is one of Southeast Asia’s leading boutique cruise operators and Anouvong, named after the last Lao king, will maintain the line’s standards for luxury, with just eight spacious staterooms and two luxurious suites. The ship will sail two itineraries; the three-night Golden Triangle Traverse between Huay Xai at the Thai border and Luang Prabang, and the seven- to nine-night Laotian Serendipity between Huay Xai and Vientiane.

River of gold Portugal's Douro is having a moment – here's what you need to know.

Huge growth on other waterways and the desire of regular river cruisers for something new is fuelling interest in Portugal’s River of Gold. Uniworld and Tauck will both debut a brand new ship on the Douro in April, which heats up the competition with cruise lines already plying the river. So what’s all the fuss about? Well, if you’re a

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RIVER CRUISE NEWS

wine-lover who adores old-time architecture and wants to escape the crowds of the rivers across the rest of Europe, then the Douro is for you.

started 2,000 years ago, but there is also culture, history and architecture waiting to be discovered. / The route Douro River cruises normally begin and end in Porto in Portugal, but a limited number do it in reverse and start from Vega de Terron, Spain. Most itineraries spend eight days sailing the Douro, and several companies offer longer options that include land tours from Lisbon, Porto or Madrid at the start or end of the itinerary. Popular stops are medieval towns like Guimaraes, and the city of Regua, which is filled with palaces and cathedrals built in the Baroque style. The cruise will take you across the border into Spain, where you can visit the striking town of Salamanca, home to Spain’s oldest university.

/ The new ships Uniworld’s 100-guest S.S. São Gabriel features butlerserviced suites and locally sourced cuisine while Tauck’s 84-guest Andorinha is one of the most intimate ships on the Douro, with an infinity pool, Balinese daybeds and restaurant on the sun deck. Last year, river cruise giant Viking added Viking Helgrim on the Douro to join three other Viking ships already sailing in the region. / The Douro difference A big point of difference of sailing the Douro is that all sailings have to take place in the day, which means guests spend much of their waking hours lulled into the relaxing rhythm of sailing. The Douro is known for its warmer weather. in fact, the heat is one of the key ingredients of the region’s most famous product – port wine. The river is lined with plenty of wine producers following a tradition

Porto, sitting pretty on the banks of the Douro.

/ The best season to cruise The cruise season on the Douro begins late March and ends in November. The shoulder seasons – April to May and September to November – offer cooler weather and less crowded ships. cruisepassenger.com.au

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READER COMPETITION

How to enter Go to cruisepassenger. com.au/competitions and answer this simple question: Which is the biggest ship in the MSC Cruises fleet?

Terms and conditions apply.

See cruisepassenger.com. au/competitions

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READER COMPETITION

Cruises is offering Cruise Passenger readers •theMSC chance to win a seven-night Mediterranean cruise

Win

a 7-night Mediterranean cruise for two plus flights worth $7,298

for two in an Oceanview cabin aboard MSC Grandiosa on your choice of sailing date.

MSC Grandiosa is the newest and biggest ship in the MSC Cruises fleet and boasts facilities like the excellent Aurea Spa, 11 different dining venues and plenty of entertainment and activities including waterslides, F1 simulators, bowling alleys and the exclusive MSC Cirque Du Soleil at Sea shows.

Over the course of seven nights, this cruise will let you explore the highlights of the Mediterranean, with ports in France, Spain and Italy where you’ll sample local food and wine, explore historic monuments and do all the shopping your heart desires.

Plus, to get you to Europe, Qatar Airways is offering return economy flights from your nearest major Australian city.

This incredible prize is for one lucky reader and their guest and includes: - A seven-night cruise from Genoa, Italy aboard the newly launched MSC Grandiosa, discovering the pearls of the West Mediterranean.

- All main meals (excluding specialty restaurants), onboard entertainment, all taxes, fees, port charges and onboard gratuities.

- Return economy airfare for two on Qatar Airways from Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth or Canberra.

cruisepassenger.com.au

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CruiseReviews INSIDE Seven Seas Splendor; luxury perfected 36

Vasco da Gama trips Down Under 42

MSC Grandiosa has a lot going on 48

Silver Muse is a haven for foodies 52

Teeming River Cruises changes the pace 56

The entertainment aboard MSC ships.

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35

SHIP REVIEW: SEVEN SEAS SPLENDOR

A MANY SPLENDORED THING

Regent Seven Seas has a new ship and a new attitude to appeal to today’s luxury cruise passenger. Peter Lynch trialled its newest vessel.

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SHIP REVIEW: RSS SPLENDOR

Compass Rose entrance (left) and seating (right).

E

ver since Regent Seven Seas boasted that they were launching The Most Luxurious Ship Ever Built with Seven Seas Explorer, the world has been waiting with bated breath. How could they top that?

The luxury line’s follow up – Seven Seas Splendor – is a story of our times. Splendor’s epithet is: “Luxury Perfected”. But it might also be: “Less is More”.

Sure, the showmanship is still there – she was officially named by US model Christie Brinkley at a glittering do in Miami – and the decadence remains: an acre of Italian marble, a $7.5 million art collection of 300 works including a Picasso, and a Regent Suite featuring a $298,000 horse-hair bed, private spa and $149,000 Steinway piano.

But there is a significant dialling down of the dazzle and a dialling up of the sophistication and subtlety.

Explorer, the sister with the Most Luxurious Ship title, is a blinged-out rap artist. Splendor is a debonair crooner by comparison, more Sam Smith than JayZ. Instead of a recitation of excess, her owners are keen to point out the new Vero water system that does away with plastics (each passenger gets a refillable water bottle); new fuels and use of shore power that puts her among the best environmentally; the new cooking school and chef experiences; the Go Local shore excursions.

The five-ship line has spent a billion dollars retro-fitting its fleet and building new vessels; another is planned for 2023. Regent maintains it’s ready to tackle the demands of the new decade’s luxury consumer: still luxurious, but more meaningful experiences and with a lighter footprint.

So how does Splendor measure up? We think rather splendidly.

Cruise Passenger was on board for a short cruise from Rome to Barcelona – the ship’s second outing under the command of Captain Serena Melani, who was the first woman in cruise industry history to captain a new ocean cruise ship at launch and whose hometown of Livorno on the Tuscan coast is on our itinerary.

Built by Fincantieri in Ancona, Italy, Splendor is 55,254 gross tonnes and 224 metres long, carrying 551 crew and 750 guests. It features five unique restaurants, three bars cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: RSS SPLENDOR

In the kitchen What’s cooking aboard Splendor.

•

A flute of Rossini – prosecco with puréed strawberries – is an apt introduction to the Culinary Arts Kitchen class onboard the luxurious Seven Seas Splendor.

For the next hour, we improve our cooking skills under the watchful eye of Chef Kathryn Kelly who teaches us to make pesce all’acqua pazza (fish in crazy water) and pain perdu (French toast) with rum-spiced caramel syrup.

While it all sounds terribly fancy, Chef Kelly makes it look simple with the help of super sleek workstations equipped with top-of-the-line induction cooktops, stainless steel sinks and a comprehensive collection of cooking essentials. The joy of a cooking class is that the dicing and slicing is done for you, correct quantities of ingredients neatly parcelled into little bowls ready for you to get started. Do try this one at home.

Pesce all’acqua pazza Serves 2 1 teaspoon olive oil 1 shallot, sliced thinly 1/3 cup white wine, preferably Italian 2 220-gram boneless branzino (sea bass) fillets, skin on 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved ¼ cup pitted, halved Kalamata olives 1 teaspoon capers, rinsed 1 sprig of thyme, picked and finely chopped Pinch of red pepper flakes Lemon wedges, extra virgin olive oil, and sea salt, for finishing

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1. Brush a medium sauté pan with olive oil. Add the shallot, gathering the slices into a platform the size of the fish fillets. Gently add the wine. Place the fish, skin side down, on top of the shallots 2. Arrange the tomatoes, olives, capers, thyme and pepper flakes alongside the fish. Completely cover with a round of greaseproof paper.

Bring to a low simmer and shallow poach the fish until cooked through, adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer.

3. Garnish with lemon wedges and finish with a generous drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt.

Clockwise from top: Chef Kelly’s cooking class; the dragon guarding Pacific Rim; the Regent Suite living area.

SHIP REVIEW: SEVEN SEAS SPLENDOR

Compass Rose still features Versace plates, though the colour palate is more contemporary and subdued.” and lounges, a show theatre, and 375 suites including the rock-star Regent Suite. At 412sqm, this twobedroom mansion comes with private car and driver in every port, a butler and an exclusive dining room for 12. Its private spa boasts a steam room, and all spa treatments are free and are carried out in your own copious marble bathroom. The wrap-around balcony has its own jacuzzi and the Dom Pérignon is virtually on tap. The suite rents for $16,500 per person a night – but don’t all rush at once. Apart from one or two gaps, it’s already booked out until November.

But what about life for the rest of us? Despite being a vessel that smells like a brand new car, her crew is welldrilled – and the ship itself is a delight, both in terms of facilities and her ability to perfectly handle sevenmetre swells from the notorious French Mistral winds.

There is a bigger Coffee Connection with outside seating, a larger dance floor, more pool deck space

for sun lounging. Signature restaurant Compass Rose still features Versace plates, though the colour palate is more contemporary and subdued, and the giant chandelier has been toned back. It served up Dover sole with just the right amount of butter sauce and perfect steamed vegetables.

Elsewhere, the ship’s specialty restaurants certainly are special. We dined on the traditional surf and turf at Prime 7 and it was everything you would expect from a top-class steakhouse, while Chartreuse, a beautifully designed French classic with a menu to match, served up duck foie gras, soufflé and steak tartar with caviar – and that’s just the hors d’oeuvre. A seared Barbary duck breast with glazed turnips, candied cherries and sour cherry mustard was a sensation – as rich and delicious as you’d expect from the French bistro.

Pan-Asian Pacific Rim features an amazing dragon carving at its entrance that was made in Brisbane. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: SEVEN SEAS SPLENDOR

There is also Sette Mari at La Veranda, serving Italian specialties with a fabulous location on the back deck, and the pool grill for casual alfresco dining.

There is one other culinary gem – the Arts Kitchen has to be the kitchen with the best view in the world – straight out over the ocean. It features 18 new classes under the watchful eye of oceanic masterchef Kathryn Kelly, director of culinary enrichment. Anyone who can teach me to produce a rather tasty pesce all’acqua pazza – fish in crazy water, a delicious branzino fillet poached in white wine and shallots – has my vote. In just an hour, we also produce pain perdu with rum-spiced caramel syrup, apparently a Jackie Onassis favourite.

A perennial favourite Regent event – the Gala Buffet – is a massive culinary extravaganza, offering everything from lobsters, prawns and sushi to an amazing array of deserts.

Splendor also features a spa under the new Regent brand, Serene, and a fitness centre with classes and personal consultants. There is a casino, boutiques, a golf putting course, a library and a cigar lounge.

Our cruise is short, but we manage to pack in two unique shore excursions, three shows and a day at sea.

During this time, we acknowledge there must be some truth to Regent’s other new message: that the line offers the best value in luxury cruising.

Yes, that’s right. The line claiming the world’s most luxurious ships also wants to be known for offering the best value for money. How does that work?

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Clockwise from above: St Peter’s Basilica, Rome; Splendor at sea; a Vespa tour of Rome; the Regent Suite bathroom.

You may have learnt from painful experience that, on some inclusive lines, things aren’t necessarily what they seem. Specialty restaurants, many shore experiences, premium alcohol and even WiFi are extra, meaning a dose of bill shock as passengers disembark.

Regent, comparatively, includes the lot.

Regent’s Asia-Pacific managing director, Steve Odell, says the way the line can claim to be the best value lies in the fact that it has the most inclusions at sea: all-suite accommodations, the largest collection of unlimited shore excursions, all specialty restaurants, entertainment, unlimited internet access, highly personalised service, fine wines and spirits, gratuities, ground transfers and one-night, pre-cruise hotel packages for guests staying in Concierge-level suites and higher.

“We will always be the most expensive because we offer the most inclusions,” he says.

“But luxury comes at a price and you should be looking at value. You don’t go to Louis Vuitton or Cartier looking for discounts.

“We do have early booking price promotions. But we tried to avoid last minute, and luxury buyers don’t buy much last minute anyway.”

Mr Odell believes Splendor is a bit more to Australian tastes than other Regent ships. “It’s designed like a private home and I think that will go down well with Aussies.” And after our experience on this cruise, we are inclined to agree.

SHIP REVIEW: SEVEN SEAS SPLENDOR

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Regent Seven Seas VESSEL: Seven Seas Splendor STAR RATING: NYR MAX PASSENGER CAPACITY: 750 TOTAL CREW: 551 PASSENGER DECKS: 14 ENTERED SERVICE: 2020 TONNAGE: 55,254 GRT FACILITIES: five restaurants, three bars and lounges, art collection, 375 balcony suites, theatre, casino, spa, fitness centre, library, pool.

BOOKINGS: RSSC.com

+ The verdict

HIGHS: Lovely suites, big balconies, great food and good service. Regent really do know how to do luxury cruising.

LOWS: Have you heard the one about the comedian who died on stage?

Must have been on Splendor. The ship has a wonderful theatre but the acts we saw didn’t do it justice.

BEST FOR: Sophisticated travellers who love culture, fine dining and great destinations.

La dolce vita As they say, do as the Romans do.

Teresa Ooi finds there is only one way to enjoy the Italian capital – hop on a Vespa.

•

I feel like a local when I climb behind my Vespa driver, holding tight as he buzzes around the Eternal City’s cobbled streets, congested city roads and tunnels, beep-beeping away. The vintage scooter becomes a passport to Rome as I stare in wonderment at every ancient statue and monument whizzing by. My only safety net is a helmet and a pair of oversized designer sunglasses.

We are in a convoy of vintage Vespas, 25 of us all nervously giggling and snapping endless selfies.

We make a quick stop at Piazzale Garibaldi at the top of Janiculum Hill, the second-tallest of Rome’s seven hills, for a birds-eye view of the city.

It’s mind-blowing; from here we can see the Vatican, St Peter’s Basilica and the Pantheon and every day at noon a canon is fired, in keeping with tradition which dates back to 1904.

We stop by Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta and peek through the famous keyhole at the secret gardens of the ancient order of the Knights of Malta and get a perfectly framed view of St Peter’s in the heart of Vatican City. This is surely the highpoint of our Vespa tour.

We make a quick stop at the Colosseum for the mandatory group selfie in front of the ancient monument, and our final stop is at the church of the Santissima Trinita dei Monti, a Roman Catholic late Renaissance church overlooking the famous Spanish Steps that lead down to the heart of the city.

By now, most of the pillion riders are ready for some retail therapy, so we explore the stylish boutiques for which the city is known before stopping for a cup of freshly roasted chestnuts from a roadside cart – a delicious way to end our day in Rome. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: VASCO DA GAMA

The ship with

3 lives

A quick coastal hop around South Australia’s Yorke Peninsula showcases local produce and Vasco da Gama’s new lease on life, by Sally Macmillan.

T

he last time I saw this ship was at its christening in Sydney Harbour in 2015, when it joined the P&O fleet as Pacific Eden in a showy double-naming ceremony alongside its sister Pacific Aria.

Vasco da Gama is its third incarnation: before it became familiar to thousands of local cruisers as Pacific Eden it was built for Holland America Line and sailed the world as Statendam for 22 years.

But enough of the history (more later on what’s new and what’s stayed the same) – we’re onboard Vasco da Gama for a four-day round-trip sailing out of Adelaide on the ship’s inaugural season Down Under. Despite disturbing 24/7 news coverage about bushfires ravaging much of the country, our excursion-packed itinerary looks promising: Wallaroo, Kangaroo Island and Port Lincoln.

I have to admit I’d never heard of Wallaroo before and there are a few variations on what its name originally meant. The most common story says it comes from the Aboriginal name wadla-waru, meaning 42

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SHIP REVIEW: VASCO DA GAMA

Kangaroo Island Spirits tasting bar.

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SHIP REVIEW: CMV VASCO DA GAMA

The whole ship has a restful ambience, even though it’s sailing at full capacity.”

Clockwise from top: Vasco da Gama’s pool deck; seals on Kangaroo Island; oysters at Coffin Bay; the Royal Presidential Suite.

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wallaby urine. That morphed into Walla-waroo which in turn was shortened to Wallaroo because it was too long to be stamped on wool bales, back when the port was an important trading hub in the mid-19th century.

Our bus driver begs to differ, saying wadla-waru translates as big sticky kangaroo. And, he informs us when we arrive at the former copper-mining town of Moonta, that name means land of impenetrable scrub.

Moonta is one of three small Copper Triangle towns on the Yorke Peninsula, along with Wallaroo and Kadina. We spend an hour or so wandering around the museum, a handsome 19th-century sandstone building that was the local school until 1968. Its

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exhibits tell the often tragic stories of tin-miners who emigrated from Cornwall in the 1800s. Cornish traditions are still celebrated today; every other year a Cornish Festival is held in Moonta, attracting more than 30,000 visitors, and local bakeries are renowned for their Cornish pasties.

Next on our whistle-stop bus tour is the boutique Sunny Hill Distillery, set on the Colliver family farm in Arthurton. We sample three of the family’s fine cropto-drop spirits including vodka, but the signature pink gin is voted the favourite; connoisseurs can take home a bottle for $100 a pop.

We move from gin and vodka tasting to wine tasting at Barley Stacks Wines, the first vineyard to be established on the Yorke Peninsula’s traditional barley belt. The spacious winery hosts concerts, weddings and parties and our leisurely tasting session is accompanied by generous platters of delicious South Australian cheeses and homemade chutneys.

Back on the ship we meet Captain Michail Smyrnaios on the bridge. Wallaroo isn’t his favourite port because of tricky tidal conditions; if the water is too low, mud could clog the ship’s propellers and filters and ships any bigger than the 1220-passenger, 55,877-tonne Vasco da Gama can’t get in there. There is some discussion about tomorrow’s call to Kangaroo Island as news reports about bushfires flood in, but the decision is made to set sail that evening for Penneshaw as planned.

At 4.30 in the morning I’m woken by the smell of smoke that’s so strong and acrid I’m convinced the

SHIP REVIEW: CMV VASCO DA GAMA

Kangaroo Island The five best things to do.

ship is on fire. Of course it’s not and as dawn breaks the sky is shrouded in grey smoke coming, we now know, from the catastrophic fires raging on Kangaroo Island.

Captain Smyrnaios announces that we will not be making our scheduled visit, but Vasco da Gama will anchor off Penneshaw in case the ship is needed to evacuate islanders and tourists to the mainland. After standing by for several hours we continue on our way to Port Lincoln.

The mood onboard is sombre and the ship re-opens its bushfire fundraising appeal.

This unexpected sea day gives us time to explore the ship. Although many of the restaurants, bars and lounges look familiar to P&O cruisers, CMV has made some interesting changes. For a start, it created 40 dedicated single cabins, 10 of which are balcony cabins; the line is marketed to adult couples and solo travellers rather than families and there are no kids’ clubs.

•

Seal Bay Conservation Park This world-class facility offers a rare opportunity to see Australian sea lions in the wild. The superbly maintained park includes an 800-metre boardwalk and a stateof-the art educational visitor centre.

Visitors can observe the 800-strong sea lion colony as they laze on the beach or head into the waves for a fishing expedition.

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Raptor Domain This is a must-do experience for anyone fascinated with birds of prey.

Raptor Domain is not a traditional zoo, but a wildlife sanctuary where visitors can interact with wedge-tail eagles, barn owls, kestrels, buzzards, falcons and many other birds. Ever held a wild eagle? You can do that right here. There are regular flying displays, plus the chance to come face to face with deadly spiders and snakes in the Venom Pit.

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Kangaroo Island Wildlife Park This long-running and popular wildlife park is playing an important role in the recovery of Kangaroo Island. As well as its own resident population of koalas, penguins, snakes, kangaroos, echidnas, wallabies and cassowaries, the

50-acre park is caring for many native animals injured in the recent bushfires.

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Kangaroo Island Spirits Launched in 2006, Kangaroo Island Spirits (KIS) is a micro distillery that makes excellent small-batch artisanal gins using wild botanicals like coastal daisy bush, samphire, wild rosemary, lemon myrtle and native juniper. The tasting room at KIS is popular with tourists and residents alike and you can purchase a wide range of artisan gins, vodkas and liquors such as honey and walnut liqueur made from roasted walnuts and ligurian honey.

•

Little Sahara The white-sand dunes rising out of mallee scrub at Vivonne Bay on the southern coast of Kangaroo Island are perfect for sand boarding and tobogganing. Boards and toboggans can be hired inexpensively from nearby Outdoor Action, which also runs quad bike tours, kayaking trips and guided walks. Vivonne Bay is one of the island’s finest beaches, with a long, sandy strip and bush setting. It’s generally safe to swim near the jetty, but the bay itself has a strong undertow. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: VASCO DA GAMA

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Cruise & Maritime Voyages VESSEL: Vasco da Gama STAR RATING: 2.5 MAX PASSENGER CAPACITY: 1220 TOTAL CREW: 540 PASSENGER DECKS: 10 TONNAGE: 55,877 GRT ENTERED SERVICE: 1993, last refurbished 2015 FACILITIES: 8 restaurants and cafes, Dome nightclub, theatre, 5 bars and lounges, library and separate reading room, 2 pools, sports courts, gym, spa.

BOOKINGS: cmvaustralia.com

+ The verdict

The casino has been reduced in size and opened up to provide comfortable seating and an area for board games; it’s on the same deck as the Ocean Bar, Captain’s Club bar and shopping gallery. The Study, next to The Library, is a quiet spot for reading or gazing out at the ocean; the whole ship has a restful ambience, even though it’s sailing at full capacity.

No-charge restaurants are Waterfront Classic (for breakfast, lunch and dinner), Waterfront Eurasia and Waterfront Mediterranean (both dinner only), plus the largely unchanged buffet (formerly The Pantry) on Deck 11. Specialty restaurant The Grill serves up excellent steak and seafood for a very reasonable $49 a head – and there are non-meat dishes on the menu for vegetarians.

Our visit to Port Lincoln is a foodie extravaganza.

We are whisked off to Line and Label, a super-stylish restaurant set in the rolling vineyards of Peter Teakle Wines, for an early lunch. Among the standout dishes is the beautifully presented Spencer Gulf prawns with wasabi, squid ink and katsuobushi – almost too pretty to eat. And the wines are top notch, too.

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HIGHS: Tea, coffee and kettles are provided in the cabins (why can’t all ships do this rather than just British ones?); The Study reading room; 40 dedicated single cabins; Australian currency onboard; no compulsory gratuities.

LOWS: Servings at the nine-course Chef’s Table are too big for a degustation experience; if you’re planning to treat yourself to specialty dining, I’d go to the excellent Grill twice at $49 per person rather than outlay $109 per person at the Chef’s Table. .

BEST FOR: Budget-conscious 40-plus couples and singles. Children aren’t forbidden but they are not specifically catered for.

A friendly local in Yorke Peninsula.

Oyster Farm Tours in famous Coffin Bay is another memorable gourmet experience, although quite different to that offered by the sophisticated, contemporary Line and Label. We don hefty waders and follow our leader, company owner and oyster farmer Ben Catterall, to the Salt Water Pavilion, an in-water dining area in the middle of the oyster beds. Learning about the prized molluscs as well as how to shuck them makes for a hugely entertaining afternoon – and naturally you get to slurp a fair few, fresh from the surrounding clear water.

Vasco da Gama offers these and many more outings on its South Australia cruises shore tours. Following its epic 52-night voyage from Tilbury to Sydney departing in October, the ship will return to Australia in December for a series of cruises out of Auckland, Sydney, Adelaide and Fremantle until February 2021.

ON BOARD with Cruise Passenger Take a tour of Australia’s fleet with our videos

Listen to our regular podcasts on all things cruise

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SHIP REVIEW: MSC GRANDIOSA

Couples and families will be in their element on MSC’s biggest, flashiest and greenest flagship, writes Steve McKenna.

T ’ N I A E F I L !

D N A GR S

ome cruise ships reveal their charms slowly, but MSC Grandiosa grabs you from the get-go. Embarking this new $1.5 billion vessel – which is offering Mediterranean voyages all year round – you’ll find yourself in Galleria Grandiosa, the ship’s beating heart and social hub, a glamorous indoor promenade that stretches 112 metres and fuses futuristic design with classic European flavours.

Passengers mosey along, crêpes or gelatos in hand, passing Venetian Gothic-style arches and faux-marble Roman columns, browsing boutiques gleaming with Gucci and Bvlgari bags and glasses. Others mull over menus at speciality restaurants like Hola!, a Spanish tapas joint by Michelin-feted chef Ramon Freixa, and the Parisian-inspired L’Atelier Bistrot, which serves French favourites.

Also catching the eye is the Galleria’s ever-changing LED ceiling dome, the longest of its type at sea. One minute it resembles, say, the stained-glass roof of a high-end Milanese arcade, the next it’s flaunting social media posts from passengers enjoying the ship’s various attractions, which range from F1 simulators and twisting water slides to Cirque du Soleil shows and an Insta-worthy atrium staircase festooned with Swarovski crystals. Music – whether it’s sail-away 48

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singers in the nearby bars or midnight DJs spinning Euro dance hits – fuels the Galleria’s lively atmosphere.

It was from one of the balconies overlooking the promenade that Italian screen legend Sophia Loren – godmother of 15 MSC ships – cut the ribbon that led to a bottle of bubbly being smashed onto the hull of this 331-metre-long vessel on the River Elbe in Hamburg. On a chilly November evening, we were happy to watch the outdoor celebratory fireworks via the LED dome, before gravitating to La Loggia – one of the ship’s complimentary à la carte restaurants – for a gourmet dinner by Harald Wohlfahrt.

Among Europe’s finest chefs – his former restaurant in Germany’s Black Forest won three Michelin stars for 26 consecutive years – Wohlfahrt has designed a signature menu to be served weekly on MSC Grandiosa (a typical seven-night cruise comprises ports of call such as Barcelona, Rome, Genoa, Marseille, Valletta and Palermo).

You certainly won’t go hungry on MSC Grandiosa, with the Marketplace Buffet, also complimentary, offering globally inspired cuisine 20 hours a day. Other extra-fee dining venues – an American steakhouse, a Japanese sushi bar and teppanyaki restaurant and a chocolaterie by master patissier Jean-Philippe Maury – will set you back between $32 and $98 per head.

Cirque du Soleil at Sea: EXENTRICKS has been created exclusively for MSC.

SHIP REVIEW: MSC GRANDIOSA

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RUNNING SHIP REVIEW: HEAD MSC GRANDIOSA

You’ll find yourself in Galleria Grandiosa, the ship’s beating heart and social hub.”

MSC Grandiosa is the first in the company’s Meraviglia Plus-class, and usurps Bellissima – launched March 2019 – as the biggest in the whole fleet. It has 2,421 cabins spanning a dozen categories, from intimate 12sqm interior studios to 59sqm duplexes with whirlpool-blessed covered balconies. A splash-out accommodation option is MSC Yacht Club – an exclusive cocoon with 95 guest suites spread across three upper decks, 24-hour butler service, and a private bar-lounge, restaurant and sun deck.

Every cabin on MSC Grandiosa, including my cosy, violet-toned 19sqm balcony cabin, has super-comfy Dorelan mattresses and pillows, and a voice-enabled device called Zoe, which debuted on Bellissima and was labelled the “world’s first virtual personal cruise assistant”. Zoe can answer around 800 questions about life on board. Apparently the most-commonly asked is: Where is the hairdryer?

For more advice, there’s the MSC for ME app, the daily newsletter and the digital touch-screens dotted around the ship. And you can still speak to real people at reception, where a flurry of languages fills the air. Despite MSC’s Italian-Swiss heritage – founded in Naples, it’s now head-quartered in Geneva – it offers a genuinely international cruising experience, with guests and crew hailing from over 100 countries.

While couples will love MSC Grandiosa, it’s familyfriendly, too. Children under 12 cruise complimentary (barring port charges) if travelling with two adults, with sofas in many cabins convertible into extra beds and larger groups able to book interconnecting cabins.

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Clockwise from below: the Yacht Club reception; Chef Ramón Freixa; butler service in the Yacht Club; the Safari Pool; L’Atelier Bistrot.

There are fun and games on the ship for everyone, from ping-pong and bowling (there are two full-size indoor alleys) to shooting zombies in an interactive 3D cinema and virtual reality maze, and teetering along the Himalayan Bridge – a 82-metre-long suspended rope walk by the top-deck Aqua Park.

Children, from babies to 17 year olds, can be left free of charge from 9am to 11pm (and later on request), at Doremi Land, the ship’s youth area, which is strewn with Lego-based activities, games consoles and board games.

Parents can then hit the gym, the Aurea spa for Balineseinspired massages or the thermal suite with its Finnish saunas and ice baths. There’s also the lure of beers and darts at the lovely English-style pub Masters of the Sea, Broadway-style musicals or Cirque du Soleil (the acrobatic Montreal-based act has created two original shows exclusively for MSC, costing upwards of $40 to watch).

MSC Grandiosa was launched amid hot debate about the cruise industry’s carbon footprint, and the company says this is its most “environmentally advanced cruise ship yet”, with single-use plastic cups and straws eliminated, recycling bins de rigueur and cutting-edge technology used to boost energy efficiency and cleaner air emissions (MSC Grandiosa is said to consume 28 per cent less fuel than MSC’s older Fantasia-class vessels).

From this year, MSC has vowed to be the world’s first carbon-neutral cruise line, offsetting all emissions with “blue carbon credits” that support marine protection as well as investing in future technology aimed at cutting out carbon emissions at the source. It’s good news – and not just for those of us who like to cruise with a conscience.

SHIP REVIEW: MSC RUNNING GRANDIOSA HEAD

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: MSC Cruises VESSEL: MSC Grandiosa STAR RATING: 4 MAX PASSENGER CAPACITY: 6,334 TOTAL CREW: 1,704 PASSENGER DECKS: 14 (but there’s no deck 17; it’s considered an unlucky number for Italians).

TONNAGE: 181, 541 ENTERED SERVICE: 2019 FACILITIES: Restaurants, bars, theatres, pools, spa, casino and games areas.

BOOKINGS: Seven-night Mediterranean cruises are priced from $874 per adult (double occupancy) and include $250 onboard credit. msccruises.com.au

+ The verdict

HIGHS: Galleria Grandiosa is a visual feast, great for people watching. The Marketplace Buffet is diverse and more-ish (try the fresh mozzarella).

Wide array of amusements, smart lifts.

LOWS: The compulsory emergency drill drags on (they do it in six languages). Once you add on shore excursions, WiFi, speciality dining and fun passes, a cruise could cost significantly more than planned.

BEST SUITED TO: Multi-generational family holidays but fun for couples too.

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SHIP REVIEW: SILVER MUSE

AMUSEBOUCHE Dining options aboard the luxury Silver Muse prove a delight for foodies, writes Teresa Ooi. 52

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SHIP REVIEW: SILVER MUSE

Clockwise from left: a teppanyaki chef at Kaiseki; Italian food at La Terrazza; lobster tail at Atlantide.

dollop of caviar, isn’t for the faint-hearted. However, a main course of grilled lobster tail with steamed spinach, broccoli and carrots proves excellent. And instead of dessert, a cheese board with a selection of stilton, camembert and brie is a mini-meal on its own.

After dinner we roam the ship looking for some entertainment, which turns out to be quite limited.

The Panorama Lounge features a three-man band playing John Denver’s Leaving on a Jet Plane and, as the song suggests, we quickly depart. At the Silver Note jazz supper club, there is no jazz, just a guitarist singing from a ’70s songbook. So again, we leave.

While Silver Muse is not big on entertainment, the ship does have eight restaurants to choose from.

How are we going to sample all eight eateries in such a short time? We don’t know, but we’re going to give it our best shot.

The next day we continue our monumental task with breakfast, buffet style, at La Terrazza, which had a good spread of fruit, including gigantic blackberries, strawberries and raspberries. For those who prefer savoury flavours, La Terrazza offers a delicious asparagus and leek frittata, and a glutenfree corner serves up berry smoothies and yummy muffins. At night, La Terrazza transforms into a stylish Italian restaurant serving everything Italian from beef carpaccio and caprese salad with buffalo mozzarella to fresh, hand-made pasta. We are told the pappardelle with duck breast ragu is outstanding.

For lunch, we try specialty Japanese restaurant Kaiseki and sample sashimi, sushi and eel before heading off to inspect pizza joint Spaccanapoli on the pool deck ­– there’s nothing like comfort food to while away the afternoon.

Speaking of comfort, Silver Muse features an onboard cobbler who can make you a pair of custom sandals. It’s a nice touch reflecting the ship’s Italian

y

ou can dine like a queen at La Dame, grill your own seafood over lava rocks at Hot Rocks on the pool deck or simply indulge in thin-crusted, Naples-style pizza. But best of all, you can feast on caviar all day – it’s on the house, after all.

We’re onboard Silver Muse, and our short voyage from Sydney to Melbourne on Silversea’s newest ship has turned out to be a cruise of culinary discovery.

On our first night we dine at Atlantide, a grand restaurant with high-backed velvet chairs, which serves fine European fare.

An amuse-bouche of caviar, served with all the traditional accompaniments, is delicious, but the richness of a steak tartare entrée, topped with another cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: SILVER MUSE

Silversea patrons love cruising with the line because of its focus on quality dining, personal service and laidback atmosphere.”

Clockwise from above: Silversea chefs plate up caviar; Spaccanapoli dining; chocolate mousse at La Dame.

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Silversea Cruises VESSEL: Silver Muse STAR RATING: 4+ MAX PASSENGER CAPACITY: 596 TOTAL CREW: 411 PASSENGER DECKS: 8 TONNAGE: 40,700 GRT ENTERED SERVICE: 2017 FACILITIES: 8 restaurants, lounges, bars, library, casino, theatre, spa, saunsa, thermal suite, fitness centre.

BOOKINGS: silversea.com

+ The verdict

HIGHS: A beautiful ship with all the accoutrements of subtle luxury and a big focus on gourmet dining, personal service and relaxed sailing experience.

Free flowing French champagne.

LOWS: Ship is not big on entertainment but patrons don’t seem to mind.

BEST FOR: Well-heeled and welltravelled cruisers who enjoy small-ship cruising, fine dining and good quality beverages.

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heritage and the results vary from simple to bejewelled numbers featuring enormous, colourful stones. While a pair of his handmade leather sandals will set you back a princely $290 to $590, he still proves very popular among the ladies.

Silver Muse prides itself on its understated luxury with muted interior colours and contemporary artworks dotting the walls alongside modern sculptures, including one whimsical piece that consists of golden hairdryers.

Our verandah suite on Deck 7 is stylish and spacious with a king-size bed, Pratesi linen, an extensive pillow menu, and ensuite with both jacuzzi and rain shower. The Bvlgari toiletries are a treat and the walk-in wardrobe, which is generous in size, features a nice little touch – a leather jewellery box in which to place your precious gems before putting them in the safe.

At 36sqm, including a 6sqm balcony, our suite offers a life of luxury onboard Silver Muse. It helps that Silversea is all-inclusive, which means freeflowing house champagne – in this case Heidsieck Monopole Blue Top – and a butler on hand.

We book specialty restaurant La Dame one evening, which has a cover charge of $90 per person but is worth every cent.

It serves French haute cuisine under the guidance of a polished maître-d’ and certainly impresses on our visit. A starter of pan-fried goose liver pâté is followed by a lobster bisque, a main of lobster tail with leeks in green pea jus and a soufflé to finish. All were divine.

Kaiseki, which serves teppanyaki in the evenings, also costs $90 per head but unfortunately, we run out of evenings

SHIP REVIEW: SILVER MUSE to eat there. We don’t have time to try Indochine, a pan-Asian restaurant featuring dishes from India, Thailand, Indonesia and China either, or Silver Note’s evening menu of tapas and drinks.

That evening, full of excitement, we attend a performance by the Voices of Silversea in the Venetian Theatre, but a selection of song-and-dance routines from the ’60s to the ’80s does not cut the (fine French) mustard.

That said, Silver Muse is a beautiful ship with all the accoutrements of subtle luxury. Loyal Silversea patrons love

cruising with the line because of its focus on quality dining, personal service and laid-back atmosphere. They are not big on entertainment and do not demand to be enthralled by glitzy Broadway shows after dinner. As one retired businessman from Kentucky said, “Past 9.30pm and I’m just ready for bed.” This is a line that knows its audience.

Prices for a 12-day cruise from Melbourne to Auckland with visits to Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound, Dunedin and Christchurch start at $8,000 per person. For more information call 1300 306 872.

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SHIP REVIEW: TEEMING RIVER CRUISES

E

uropean river cruising is all about ease, right? Unpack once and visit several historic cities along a legendary river – the Danube or Douro, perhaps, or the Rhône or Rhine.

The entire journey is orchestrated by the cruise company, from dinner menus featuring regional dishes to motorised shore excursions designed to see as many landmarks as possible – typically viewed en masse while listening to a lollipop-waving guide and limited to the pace of the slowest passengers.

In other words, what seemed like a carefree holiday can end up feeling strangely like a floating bus tour.

And a pretty pricey one at that.

But new players on the riverbanks of Europe are making a journey down the Rhine or Rhône much more accessible.

Enter Teeming River Cruises – where guests sleep and eat onboard but what they see and do ashore is totally up to them. The result: prices that are half to a third that of a typical all-inclusive river cruise.

I thought that sounded too good to be true so I decided to give Teeming’s Gems of the Rhine itinerary (almost identical to 2020’s Summer Rhine Adventure) a try. Here’s what the experience – seven nights from Mainz, Germany (near Frankfurt) to Amsterdam – was like.

Unlike larger river lines, this company – owned by Americans Jeff and Gina Paglialonga and launched in 2017 – doesn’t own any ships. It leases its small fleet on select dates, offering about 18 cruises a year. Teeming currently has itineraries on the Rhine, Moselle, Danube, Seine, Rhône, Douro and Po. My friend Suzanne and I arrive in Mainz eager to board and see what the Rhine River Valley, with its castles and vineyards, is all about. It’s late October and as we wheel our luggage along the bumpy cobblestone embankment to the ship in a cold and steady rain, I have to admit that I miss the cushy transfers offered by more inclusive cruise lines.

Once up the gangway, though, things are somewhat sunnier. We spot travellers whose passports, like ours, peg us as fifty- or sixty-something, but whose brains think we’re a decade (or more) younger. No tour buses for us. We intend to explore seven ports in Germany and the Netherlands on foot!

Which brings me to the Teeming Walking Tour App. It’s a free app for smartphones that offers stepby-step directions to top sights in each city – plus a pin placed to show the ship’s position so you can find your way back. Passengers who prefer guided excursions can arrange them independently or book third-party tours via the line’s website.

Of course, we go 100 per cent app. Mainz has landmarks worth slogging through a downpour to 56

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You’re the BOSS

The days of all-inclusive – and all-regimented – river cruising may be drawing to a close, says Donna Heiderstadt.

SHIP REVIEW: TEEMING RIVER CRUISES

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SHIP REVIEW: TEEMING RIVER CRUISES see – St. Stephen’s Cathedral with its Chagall-designed windows, the Sanctuary of Isis and Magna Mater, and the Gutenberg Museum dedicated to the first movable press and printed Bible – so with an umbrella protecting my app-loaded iPhone we set out.

Things quickly go wrong and a pert female voice runs us in circles for 15 minutes before we realise the GPS sync isn’t quite accurate. Once we shut her up and simply follow a dot path with the blinking one showing our location, we easily navigate ourselves to two top landmarks before torrents of rain send us ducking into a cafe for hot soup.

Back aboard, as we cruise toward Rüdesheim am Rhein, Suzanne and I bond with Ed and Angela over dinner.

By breakfast and lunch the next day we’ve added Mike and Penny, and sisters Mary and Lynette to our group. With the exception of Gen Xer Angela, we are all tail-end Baby Boomers, born within three years of one another. I have high hopes that our shared age group bodes well for the days ahead.

Even on a gray day, Rüdesheim is a delight. Known for its half-timbered buildings and rolling vineyards, it is easily explored on foot. Suzanne and I walk the

Clockwise from right: a 300-yearold tradition at Wynand Fockink, deck life; Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, Koblenz.

Drosselgasse, a photogenic 15th-century cobblestone street, and take the Seilbahn (cable car) up to the Niederwalddenkmal monument for panoramic vineyard views.

We want to hike up to the hilltop Benedictine Abbey of St. Hildegard but decide to skip it because we aren’t sure we have enough time (the ship departs at 2PM and we still don’t quite trust the app). That night at dinner we learn that Ed and Angela had made it up to the abbey, while others had warmed up with Rüdesheimer coffee spiked with brandy and sugar cubes and set aflame.

Onboard dining had been a pre-cruise concern; Teeming’s fare was so low – less than $1320 per person – that I had expected the food might be a problem.

It’s not. While not gourmet, most menu selections are well-prepared, with dinner options such as pan-seared trout, orange-glazed duck and racks of lamb.

Only vegan Angela is left wanting more, though the buffet breakfasts and lunches are more veggie friendly.

Equally commendable is the service by the mostly Eastern European crew, who are always accommodating and polite.

The only misfire? The wine, for which Suzanne and I had paid $110 each for bythe-glass pours with our meals. The house red and white are almost undrinkable, so it’s lucky the rosé is crisp and dry.

Our visit to the sleepy burg of Boppard begins slowly, since it’s All Saints Day and in the largely Catholic Rhine Valley

No tour buses for us.

We intend to explore seven ports in Germany and the Netherlands on foot!”

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SHIP REVIEW: TEEMING RIVER CRUISES

+ Fact file

everything is closed except St. Severus Church. Then we spot the “open” sign on Vineum, a wine shop across the street, and end up enjoying this little town’s most delicious activity: affordable tastings of superb dry and medium-dry rieslings.

Next: an overnight in Koblenz. Located at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers, where Deutsches Eck (German Corner) features a statue of Kaiser Wilhelm. It’s home to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress (reachable via a scenic cable car ride), a river promenade, and a baroque Old Town notable for its parks, weinstube (wine taverns) and Schängelbrunnen (a statue of a spitting boy – don’t walk too close at the wrong moment!). We also have time to hire a taxi and visit Stolzenfels Castle, a fairytale fortress with magnificent gardens and views.

With 15 hours in Dusseldorf we are able to explore not only this city but also Cologne, 35 minutes away by train. Ed, Angela, Mike and Penny were game for an adventure – and our goal is to climb the 533 dizzying spiral steps 100 meters to the top of the 13th-century Cologne Cathedral. Five of us succeed (fear of heights sidelines one). Breathless, we

refuel with a lunch of local bratwurst and beer and arrive back in Dusseldorf with time to explore Altstadt, strolling the Rhine embankment promenade as dusk bathes it in an autumnal glow.

On to the Netherlands. The city of Arnhem is known for its 16th-century Devil’s House, decorated with horned satyr sculptures, but it also has some heavenly sights. Park Sonsbeek with its photogenic manor house and grazing cows, and 15th-century St. Eusebius Church featuring glass-floored observation balconies added in 2018 at heights of 59 and 62 meters. Seven of us step out and take in the view to the left, right, up and (nervously) down.

By the time we disembark in Amsterdam, our group has decided to meet up that night after checking into our hotels. Our Teeming journey comes to an end with a unique Dutch treat. At Wynand Fockink, a circa-1697 tavern that serves genever (Dutch gin) and fruit brandies, we line up at the bar for the traditional bow for the first sticky sip – no hands allowed. As with the rest of our trip, we go for it – our intense slurps memorialised on social media.

CRUISE LINE: Teeming River Cruises VESSEL: Royal Crown STAR RATING: NYR MAX PASSENGER CAPACITY: 90 TOTAL CREW: 30 PASSENGER DECKS: 3 TONNAGE: 55,877 GRT ENTERED SERVICE: 1996, last refurbished 2009 FACILITIES: library, boutique, fitness area, lounge, restaurant (open seating), large sun deck, lido bar, putting green and large scale chessboard.

BOOKINGS: teemingrivercruises.com

+ The verdict

HIGHS: Meeting travelers enthusiastic about seeing sights independently (climbing Cologne Cathedral was literally a high and Stolzenfels Castle was a gem) and trying local food and drink, such as fiery coffee in Rüdesheim, excellent rieslings in Boppard, bratwurst and Kölsch beer at Früh am Dom in Cologne, and a potent Dutch spirit in a 350-year-old bar in Amsterdam.

LOWS: The onboard wine: a raspy red and an astringent white (in a region known for delicious rieslings no less) left just a dry rosé as the drink of choice.

BEST FOR: Travelers without mobility issues who like to plan their own itineraries or simply wander and discover the soul of a place.

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CRUISE THE SKIES TO BARCELONA AND TURN YOUR STOP-OVER INTO AN INCREDIBLE SINGAPORE STAY-OVER

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Mediterranean ports 64

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Airline review 84

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Ports 92

Small ships 75

Hotel Review 82

Food 86

Tips & Advice 90

Last Word 94

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10

CRUISE PLUS: MEDITERRANEAN PORTS

Must-See Mediterranean Cruise Ports

By David Dickstein.

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A

lmost 100,000 Australians head to Europe – and the Mediterranean in particular – to cruise every single year.

They are tempted by a smorgasbord of cultural dishes: a taste of Santorini here, a nibble of Naples there, a morsel of Mykonos this day and a bite of Barcelona that day. They are drawn by the melting pot of art, architecture, music, history, museums, castles, old towns, wine, fashion…

No other destination offers so much variety with new countries, cultures and experiences on every day of a cruise.

CRUISE PLUS: MEDITERRANEAN PORTS

Just about every ocean-going line, from the megaship brands to tiny boutique vessels, has cruises in the Med offering a range of itineraries at different lengths and with different focuses. Fancy a Roman holiday? Done. The Greek islands appeal?

There’s an option for that. Dreaming of the French Riviera? There are ships to take you there. Want a tasting tour of all of them? Right this way.

Whether you’re seeking a relaxed tour of Michelin-starred restaurants and worldfamous wineries, an active exploration of stunning geographic locations, or a hands-on history lesson among ancient

ruins, crumbling castles and fabulous fortresses, in the Mediterranean, all these extraordinary experiences can be linked in one seamless itinerary.

This is cruising at its best; a stress-free segue from one destination to the next in a short space of time. In a week, for instance, you could explore Venice, Dubrovnik, Mykonos, Santorini and Athens or, in the Western Mediterranean, Barcelona, Marseilles, Naples and Rome. Plenty of cruise lines offer both in one itinerary, or allow you to link two cruises together.

And there’s no bad time to visit. April to June is gorgeous, with flowers in bloom

and everyone gearing up for the summer season. September and October are hot and sunny – and the sea is still warm enough for swimming. July and August are European school holidays, so avoid unless you’re comfortable with crowds.

There’s a growing trend now for winter cruising, which is a breath of fresh air if you’re there for the culture rather than the sunshine, as museums and galleries are empty.

Whenever you decide to cruise, here’s our guide to getting the most out of your stop at the ten most popular destinations in the Mediterranean.

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CRUISE PLUS: MEDITERRANEAN REPORT

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Rome Unless Italy’s capital city is your port for embarkation or disembarkation, you’ll be afforded roughly 11 hours of exploration, factoring in the 90 minutes it takes to get to and from the dock in Civitavecchia. When in Rome, do as the tourists do. Mustsees are all the bucket-list mainstays: the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Trevi Fountain and St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. With so much to do in so little time, let professionals be your guide to navigate with optimum efficiency. Most cruise lines offer a full-day tour of the Eternal City’s greatest-hits, but another option is booking a licensed private guide yourself for a small group; Eyes of Rome Tours is among the best.

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Athens

It’s almost sacrilegious how little time most cruise lines afford to the birthplace of Western civilisation. The silver lining is that Athens understands the time restraints a sea-arriving visitor is under. Ground transportation from the port of Piraeus to downtown Athens can be as quick as 30 minutes, even when multiple megaships are anchored on the same morning.

Checking off the city’s two mustsees – the Acropolis and National

Archaeological Museum – can be done with a single excursion booked directly with the cruise line; a fivehour tour comfortably takes busloads to the sacred rock of ancient Athens and home of the iconic Parthenon to the richest collection of artifacts from Greek antiquity anywhere.

Highly recommended Athens Tours Greece will pick up cruisers opting for a private tour; its popular four-hour excursion runs to about $230.

CRUISE PLUS: MEDITERRANEAN PORTS

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Barcelona

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Naples

Pish-posh to tourists who diss Naples for its sprawling grittiness and high rate of petty crime. Just focus on its enthralling side, mind your valuables and become one with southern Italy’s largest city.

If the preference is to explore the city, consider bypassing the cruise ship’s array of shore excursions and hire a licensed tour guide through Tours by Locals. For about $430, up to seven people are shown the city by foot and public transportation during an eight-hour

private customised tour. Do lunch at Di Matteo, L’Antica Da Michele or Antica Pizzeria Port’Alba, considered the top places to eat pizza in the city in which it was invented. Prefer a scenic drive to the gorgeous Amalfi Coast? Big-ship cruise lines offer a wide selection of options, several that include the fascinating ruins of Pompeii, which was destroyed by the 79 AD eruption of Mt. Vesuvius.

Look for a tour of roughly nine hours that covers the Amalfi Coast, Positano, Sorrento and Pompeii.

Spain’s second-largest city offers everything you want from a cruise port without the need for a shore excursion or private guide. In the city of Picasso, Miró and Tàpies you don't require an expert to find spectacular sights, superb shopping, an excellent beach, fabulous food and drink and the best people watching in the region. For cruisers, exploring is as easy as going into town by cab, telling the driver to drop you pretty much anywhere, then walking in any direction. Chances are you’ll fall in love with this electrifying port and its beautiful people – whether you stroll the famous La Rambla pedestrian thoroughfare or pay homage to Antoni Gaudi’s Catalan Modernism at Sagrada Familia. Huge cranes have been a mainstay of this inimitable Roman Catholic church for decades – it was incomplete when Gaudi died in 1926 but an international labor of love vows to complete the iconic building in 2026, the centenary of Gaudi’s death.

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E X PE R I E N C E T H E M E DI T E R R A N E A N L I K E N E V E R BE F OR E Just like the original Vikings, we are true innovators when it comes to exploring the world — and with our Explorer Sale now on, you could save up to $2,100 per couple when you book selected ocean cruises.

Our Mediterranean itineraries will see you engaging with the unique histor y and culture of each destination on a truly profound level. Experience the ar t of the flamenco in Barcelona, mar vel at medieval histor y in Dubrovnik and sample authentic Italian pizza in historic Naples.

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Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability and correct at time of printing. Prices include all advertised discounts and may vary depending on departure date and stateroom category. Surcharges and blackout dates may apply during peak periods. All offers valid on new bookings only made between 27 December 2019 and 31 March 2020 unless sold out prior. $2,100 per couple saving based on Viking Homelands ocean cruise 22 April 2021 departure. For full terms and conditions visit www.vikingcruises.com.au

CRUISE PLUS: MEDITERRANEAN PORTS

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Florence

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The port of Livorno on the Etruscan Coast of Tuscany serves as the gateway to Florence and Pisa for more than 15 major cruise lines.

Shore excursion desks keep busy fulfilling passengers’ wishes to discover the area’s famous sites.

Most large ships offer a Florence and Pisa DIY tour that has a local escort narrating the 90-minute coach ride to Florence before dropping you off in Santa Croce Square with directions, maps

cruisepassenger.com.au

and tips. The three hours or so of independent exploring are well spent checking out the Duomo with its iconic dome and bell tower, and the cherished Ponte Vecchio over the Arno River. From Florence, it’s another 90-minute drive to Pisa for a visit to Piazza dei Miracoli and its famously leaning 650-year-old bell tower. Don’t be shy about getting a photo of yourself trying to right the foundation-challenged structure – you’re a tourist!

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Santorini There’s no getting around a tender ride and a 400-metre ascent up the cliffs of a caldera to reach Fira, which is a pretty town in itself as well as the starting point for all shore excursions such as visits to nearby Oia, beach days and hiking. Your easiest of three options to reach the plateau (and the most animal-friendly) is an $8 cable car ride, probably with a long queue (especially coming down). Your payoff is a place where a bad selfie background doesn’t exist. Good luck not being photobombed, though; so much beauty attracts throngs of people.

The chalk-white buildings, crawling bougainvillea and dramatic coastline, coupled with interesting museums, churches and boutiques, lure nearly 800,000 cruisers annually. The narrow passageways seem even more so when the ships are in.

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BOOK TODAY AT NCL.COM.AU | CALL 1300 255 200 | OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL AGENT +Get 5 free offers: Studio and Inside staterooms choose 1 free offer. Oceanviews choose 2 free offers. Balconies and above receive all 5 offers. Shore excursion credit is US$50 per port and applicable to 1st guest in the stateroom. 3rd and 4th guest sail at a reduced rate only valid on select dates. *Up to US$2,900 in overall value is based on the combined value of all offers and is per stateroom. Offer is non-refundable, non-transferrable, has no monetary value and is valid for new bookings only. Offer is subject to change or withdrawal at any time and combinability with other promotional offers is subject to change at any time per Norwegian Cruise Line’s discretion. Other restrictions may apply. For full terms and conditions visit ncl.com.au. All rights reserved. Norwegian Cruise Line is not responsible for typographical errors or omissions. Ships’ registry: BAHAMAS & UNITED STATES OF AMERICA ©2020 NCL Corporation Pty Ltd. ABN 80 607 578 781.

CRUISE PLUS: MEDITERRANEAN PORTS

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Mykonos

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Kusadasi

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One could easily spend the entire day within walking distance of the ship in Kusadasi, Turkey.

The port’s vibrant and secure shopping center and adjacent retailers are chock-a-block with such local specialties as carpets, silk pashminas and ceramics.

The marina also boasts terrific restaurants; if you’re ever tempted to bypass a pre-paid lunch on the ship, this is the place. But let’s talk Turkey: cruise ships don’t call on Kusadasi because of what’s in and

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around the port. The emphasis here is Ephesus. Once home to philosophers, gladiators and rulers, the ancient city is rich in ruinous architecture and history, and a fleet of buses parked on the other side of the gangway can take you there in 30 minutes.

Nearly every shore excursion offered through the cruise lines includes a visit to Ephesus, considered one of the world’s most magnificent and bestpreserved archaeological sites.

A dearth of shore excursion options is actually part of the allure of this Greek island, a destination Lonely Planet accuses of “[flaunting] its sizzling St. Tropez-meets-Ibiza style and party-hard reputation.” Nightlife begins long after the larger cruise ships have sailed away, but Mykonos by day is still exciting. Tours of ancient Delos, birthplace of the god Apollo, and shuttles to wonderful beaches get some takers, but most visitors who get off the boat hoof it to the Old Town to stroll the narrow streets that lead to boutiques, museums, cafes, patisseries and churches. Many get genuinely lost thanks to a centuriesold defense scheme designed to thwart would-be invaders; the town is plotted as a maze, and a total whitewash of its buildings intentionally makes navigation challenging. Not to worry, the Aegean Sea or a friendly local will stop you going too far astray.

CRUISE PLUS: MEDITERRANEAN PORTS

#

10

Rhodes

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Crete

Shore excursion options are few in the home of Europe’s earliest civilization, but that offers a rare, stress-free opportunity to assimilate with the locals. There’s no easier, cheaper or quicker way to do that than taking the hop-on hopoff open-top buses of Heraklion Open Tour. For just $35 (less if you buy online in advance or cut a deal with the ticket seller), you’re taken on a loop around Crete’s capital and Greece’s fourth-largest city.

Any of the 11 stops is technically a starting and ending point, but the official one is just off the ship. After quick stops by a medieval fortress and a small, but decent aquarium, consider getting off for a few hours to truly soak up indigenous culture and color. Although a popular stop, the Palace of Knossos can be disappointing in that it’s overly restored and lacking in original antiquities. Still, this home of Hercules is a real charmer.

Walk off the ship and in five minutes you can enter a castle-like fortress where fun, food and souvenirs await, along with hungry feral cats.

Exploring the Old Town is easily done on your own, but getting to the second-most visited attraction in Rhodes – the ancient city of Lindos – requires ample time and wheels since the 50-kilometre journey takes about 45 minutes each way, longer during peak season from April through September. Crowds will also have you deciding whether the Acropolis of Rhodes, site of a temple to the goddess Athena, is worth hiking up a narrow and imposing path. Donkeys can carry you up in exchange for about $8 and your PETA membership card. If visiting Tsambika Beach and Lindos before or after the Old Town sounds nice, pre-book a private driver through Taxi Rhodes, which charges about $290 for six hours and will meet you at the dock. cruisepassenger.com.au

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A WO R L D O F WAYS TO L I V E F U L LY

Journeys of Discovery Rediscover yourself as you venture to tiny villages and sun-soaked archipelagos.

Cast aside the beaten track and the familiar, and surrender yourself to discovering some of the hidden wonders of travel.

The only question is, what are you waiting for?

CANARY ISLANDS

THE MEDITERRANEAN

CROATIA

Canary Islands Adventure Small Ship Expedition Cruise

Spain, Portugal & Morocco Discovery Small Ship Expedition Cruise

Pearls of the Adriatic Coast Luxury Small Ship Cruise

—— 12 days Tenerife to Porto From $14,195* per person $2,000 Air Credit per couple*

—— 15 days Lisbon to Barcelona From $16,545* per person Fly for $795*

—— 12 days Dubrovnik to Rovinj From $9,395* per person Save $1,200 per couple*

All-inclusive. All taken care of. So you can Live Fully.

Earn 1 Qantas Point per $1 spent on APT holidays~

‘A PT LU X U RY T R AV E L’ CA L L 13 0 0 514 6 0 3 A PTO U R I N G .CO M . AU/ D I S COV E RY O R S P E A K TO YO U R T R AV E L AG E N T

*Conditions apply. SEE: aptouring.com.au/SpecialDeals for full conditions. Book by 30 Nov 2020, unless sold out prior. Prices are based on per person (pp), AUD, twin share and include port charges. Prices are correct as at 27 Jan 2020. Prices based on NOBCTP12: 9 Apr 2021 (Standard Suite Forward), NOBCLB15: 14 July 2021 (Standard Suite Forward), and NOBLDR12: 29 Apr 2021 (Cat. 1). NOBLDR12 price is inclusive of the stated monetary saving.

OFFERS: Limited suites and offers on set departures are available and are subject to availability. DEPOSITS: A first non-refundable deposit of $1,000 per person is due within 7 days of booking. ~QANTAS FREQUENT FLYER: You must be a Qantas Frequent Flyer Member to earn Qantas Points. A joining fee may apply. Membership and Qantas Points are subject to the Qantas Frequent Flyer Terms and Conditions, available at qantas.com/terms. Qantas Frequent Flyer members can earn 1 Qantas Point per AU$1 spent on all APT holidays. See aptouring.com.au/Qantas for full conditions. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation #A10825. APT-1675-v2

apt-1675-v2.indd 1

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CRUISE PLUS: SMALL SHIPS

THE RISE & RISE OF THE

SMALL SHIP Boutique vessels are making headway when it comes to cruising, writes Sue Bryant.

t One of Ponant’s Explorer-class ships, offering Zodiacs, water sports, an infinity pool on deck and a multi-purpose platform.

here was a time, a few years ago, when cruise ships seemed destined to get bigger and bigger. The 6,000 passenger mark had been passed and industry watchers began to speculate on just how large it was possible to go. At the same time, overtourism was beginning to affect popular ports like Venice, Dubrovnik and Barcelona; however unfairly, mammoth ships in these ports were giving cruising a bad name, while building small ships was considered uneconomical.

But the winds of change are blowing. An explosion in demand followed by massive investment in the expedition cruise sector over the last three years has led to a sudden proliferation of small ships. Some are built with ice-toughened hulls and protected viewing areas for polar expedition cruising, but many lines are offering new itineraries in warmer waters, from the Kimberley to Indonesia and Central America to French Polynesia – tropical spots considered natural progressions for travellers who have “done” the poles but still want the vibe and activity of an expedition.

Visiting these places on a boutique vessel has an environmental impact much lower than on a megaship, plus new destinations open up to ships small enough to squeeze into tiny ports or places with little infrastructure; Raja Ampat in West Papua, the Chilean fjords, the smaller Greek islands, the Scottish coast and the Russian Far East.

Ponant, one of the biggest players in the small ship market, has six 184-passenger Explorer-class ships. RitzCarlton’s Evrima launches in June with 298 passengers, a lavish spa and a collaboration with a Michelin-starred chef, plus a sister ship to follow in 2021. Scenic has just announced a new brand, Emerald Yacht Cruises, with the 100-passenger Emerald Azzurra set to launch in 2021; Scenic’s own ultra-luxury Scenic Eclipse will be joined

by Scenic Eclipse II in 2021. Tahiti-based Paul Gauguin Cruises is building two new 230-passenger ships due 2022, and Sea Cloud Cruises is constructing a threemasted ship, Sea Cloud Spirit. Silversea is raising the bar in the Galapagos Islands with Silver Origin launching in August carrying 100, while Coral Expeditions’ Coral Geographer, a sister to the new Coral Adventurer, debuts in 2021 in the islands of the Indian Ocean.

There’s no question that in cruising, small is suddenly very beautiful indeed. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: AQUA BLU

BAREFOOT LUXURY A week on Aqua Blu is the perfect way to explore Raja Ampat in style, finds Sue Bryant.

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i

’m standing on the dock at the Indonesian port of Sorong, feeling slightly forlorn after two nights in the air, three flights and a missing suitcase.

I’m immediately revived, though, when a sleek cream-and-blue powerboat zooms up, weaving between the fishing boats, T/T Aqua Blu inscribed on its side.

I step on board and we whizz across the water to the mothership, her gleaming grey hull and elegant profile coming into view, smiling crew lined up on the aft deck to greet us with fresh watermelon juice.

Our shoes are politely taken away. I don’t wear them again for a week – this is an entirely barefoot yacht, even for the crew.

A week on Aqua Blu is as close as you’ll come to living the oligarch lifestyle without chartering a plane or buying

CRUISE PLUS: AQUA BLU Clockwise from left: Aqua Blu from above; lounging areas on deck; Aqua Blu with a tender.

definition. Sheer-sided sugarloaf karst formations rise vertically out of the sea, sculpted by waves around the base so they appear to be hovering. Emerald green rainforest plummets into improbably turquoise shallows, the shadows of the reefs below clearly defined. The beaches are white powder, scattered with fallen coconuts and pieces of broken coral.

There’s not a soul in sight.

Raja Ampat unfurls is charms gradually over the course of the week, stage managed by our attentive crew: cruise director Serge Saliba, dive guides Gustin, Kas and Ana and a jolly team of Indonesian bartenders, on hand with freshly squeezed juice for salty, thirsty snorkellers or whipping up gin and tonics on the Sun Deck at sunset.

There are 25 crewmembers and just 14 pampered passengers, from Australia, the UK and the USA. Days take on an easy pattern. Breakfast on deck or, for those who like their air con as the humidity is already intense, in

your own gin palace. The 30-passenger ship is a former British Royal Navy coastal survey vessel, built in Britain in 1968 as HMS Beagle. It served for the Royal Navy until 2002, when its graceful lines caught the eye of a wealthy English couple who bought the vessel as a private plaything. Aqua Expeditions, better known for its highend expeditions on the Amazon and Mekong, acquired the ship in 2019, stripping out the bling and replacing everything with colour schemes of soft grey and ivory, with gold and silver accents and tasteful objets d’art, potted palms and sprays of orchids dotted around. Every detail has been considered, from the placemats made from tiny beads of shell to the perfectly

plumped gold and silver cushions in the Salon, the ship’s living room. A wildly impractical deep pile cream carpet lines the corridors and cabins and feels deliciously decadent under our bare feet.

Aqua Blu sails year-round in Indonesia, its powerful, long-range engines allowing it to reposition effortlessly between Raja Ampat, Komodo and the Spice Islands. I’m here to explore Raja Ampat, 1,500 jungly islands scattered off the coast of Western Papua and home to an incredible two thirds of the world’s coral species and more than 1,600 species of reef fish.

I emerge into the Sky Lounge for breakfast on the first morning from the semi-coma of jetlag to a world in high cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: AQUA BLU

the cool of the Sky Lounge. As well as fresh fruits and flaky croissants, omelettes are whisked up alongside Indonesian specialities like nasi goreng and, one day, pancakes with banana and toffee sauce. There’s a morning snorkel, then lunch and siesta, sometimes a talk on marine life before we’re back on the aft deck, pulling on rash vests, donning fins for another adventure under the surface.

Every day, we snorkel over dramatic water landscapes and coral gardens in scarlet, lime green and electric blue, drifting in the strong currents as the underwater world unfurls like a sped-up movie.

At Daram, off the coast of Misool, the coral beds fall away into deep blue valleys where black-tipped reef sharks glide and sea turtles 78

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Clockwise from above: Aqua Blu at sea; an alfresco onboard breakfast; the understated ship’s lounge.

drift gracefully. A squadron of yellow batfish swims in perfect formation over the abyss, while a superhighway of thousands of bright blue yellowtail fusiliers streams just beneath me, cutting across the path of a family of silvery squid. At Neptune’s Fan, we float the length of an underwater gorge, over giant sea fans in scarlet, with delicate filigree patterns. Just off Dayang, on Batanta island, three manta rays, each three metres across, circle beneath us, tilting sideways to reveal their white underbellies.

One afternoon, we kayak 700 metres into the blackness of Tolomol cave, our torch revealing a soaring ceiling, more than 40 metres high, dripping with giant stalactites.

Another day, we paddle across an

aquamarine lagoon, completely alone, drifting between bottle green islands and soaking up the silence.

A lone eagle wheels overhead. The thought strikes me that I’ve never been anywhere so beautiful.

The crew lays on constant surprises, with a level of intuitive service you’d expect on Seabourn or SeaDream Yacht Club. One night, coolers of wine and beer are loaded into the tenders and we bob around off Mioskon Island, eating canapés of smoked salmon on rösti, waiting for a promised sunset spectacle.

Sure enough, as the last rays of light fade, the sky is suddenly black with thousands of giant fruit bats, streaming across the water to the mainland to feed.

Late one afternoon, umbrellas, mats and cushions, and a pop-up

RUNNING HEAD

+ Fact file

CRUISE LINE: Aqua Expeditions VESSEL: Aqua Blu LAUNCHED: 1968 REFURBISHED: 2019 STAR RATING: Not yet rated TONNAGE: 1,140 PASSENGER DECKS: 5 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 30 TOTAL CREW: 25 FACILITIES: Restaurant, bar, library, gym, spa, sun deck, Jacuzzi, alfresco dining area.

BOOKINGS: aquaexpeditions.com

+ The verdict

HIGHS: The outstanding food, service, gorgeous ship and the world’s best snorkelling.

LOWS: No lows as such, but with a price tag this high, bar drinks ought to be included.

BEST FOR: A superb, high-end experience in Indonesia on a luxurious and historic superyacht.

bar are set up on a tiny island.

We snorkel from the beach, and explore the island, which is rapidly shrinking as the tide comes in.

Bartender Febry plays his ukulele and sings, while Rahmat and Bayu serve up Tiger’s Spice: rum, lime, ginger beer and garam masala, as the sun sinks towards a horizon tumbled with storm clouds, lightning flickering inside them.

Every meal on Aqua Blu is sublime, fresh, imaginative and sustainably sourced by chef Adrian Broadhead, the ship’s food and beverage manager. Chilled cucumber soup, grilled barramundi, tangy Vietnamese salad and mango sorbet for lunch. Long, laughterfilled, boozy dinners take place on deck under a starlit sky, featuring tuna with sweet potatoes and

ginger puree or slow-roasted lamb, followed by a rich peanut parfait under a dark chocolate dome.

Decent wines from Australia and New Zealand, included in the cruise price, flow with meals.

The 15 cabins are extremely comfortable, with masses of space, marble bathrooms and super-king beds, although in truth, you’re on deck or in the water most of the time. We would lounge on the big, padded bench on the Sun Deck watching the scenery or stretch out on the vast day beds on the Bridge Deck at night, gazing at the stars.

There’s no nightlife. Everybody drifts off to bed after dinner, happy and tired from the day’s activity.

Barefoot luxury at its absolute best.

A seven-night Raja Ampat cruise on Aqua Blu starts at $11,200.

Our shoes are politely taken away. I don’t wear them again for a week – this is an entirely barefoot yacht.”

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Adventure Cruising Defined Nearly 25 years ago, UnCruise Adventures got its start in the wilds of Alaska’s Inside Passage. A revolutionary style of cruising, UnCruise was on a mission to give guests a truly hands-on, boots-on-the-ground experience. Kayaking near the chill face of a glacier. Hiking through boot-sucking muskeg. Even getting a whiff of a whale’s breath from a skiff. The founders knew what they wanted their adventures to include and it wasn’t for guests to stand in lines or be charged for each activity. Since those first few seasons in Alaska, and now along coastal Washington, Columbia & Snake Rivers, Hawaiian Islands, Baja, Belize, Guatemala, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, and Galápagos, they still treat each day and each activity as a brand new adventure.

When it comes to small ship cruising, UnCruise defines adventure.

UnCruise knows that flexibility is the ticket to big experiences.

There are set itineraries, but Mother Nature leads the way and the captains and crew will alter course to take advantage of the best opportunities. Small ships (just 22 to 86 guests, tops) and even smaller groups enable you to wrap yourself in nature and culture through active, on-the-ground, inthe-water explorations. And with a near obsession of accommodating your requests, they make it easy for you to try something new.

What do past guests rave about the most? Easy. The crew.

The best of the best, experts in the industry, and just plain fun. And while you may not believe it until you come aboard, it’s your crew who truly make your experience.

Each team member is hand-picked for their astounding knowledge, experience, customer service, and safety skills—plus their “can do” attitude and genuine spirit.

They’ve got you covered. The crew knows your name, quickly learns your activity style, and some even your drink order. Be ready for an old fashioned like you’ve never had before. In the field, on deck, or sitting in on an after-dinner talk, each guide is full of facts and eager to share. So fire off your questions about that funny-looking bird, or whales, or your new favorite fungi. They’re experts in a host of fields you may not have even known existed (glacial morphology, anyone?). And don’t be shy to ask for what you need in your cabin or with your meal. Most requests are met with a happy “let me see what I can do.”

It’s the crew’s unique talents, love of travel, and a deep respect and appreciation for the places UnCruise visits that shape your adventures. Trust us; you’ll be raving, too.

Small ships, BIG adventures.

For more information on UnCruise Adventures’ small ship cruises: UnCruise.com

in your element adventure

Our name and our passion. Uncovering playgrounds that offer the richest, wildest experiences by hike, paddle, with locals, and more.

Explore places so tucked away that our cozy boats fit in just right.

It’s all included, and there’s something for everyone.

connection

Small ships acquaint you with like-minded travelers and places that tug your heartstrings. Bonds are hard to define but easy to spot hugging it out at the end—from co-explorers to friends for life.

[ad·ven·cher]

[kuh·nek·shuhn]

unmapped [uhn·m’apt]

That tempting turn in the trail. Blue water begging for a snorkel.

The call of the wild. Rest assured there are maps, but you also get a rush seeking out the unknown.

we are adventure... you can be, too!

7-14

inclusive

nights

KAYAK | SNORKEL | SKIFF | HIKE WILDLIFE | CULTURE | EAT | DRINK | LAUGH

ALASKA | COLUMBIA & SNAKE RIVERS | PACIFIC NORTHWEST | HAWAII | MEXICO COSTA RICA | PANAMÁ | COLOMBIA | BELIZE | GUATEMALA | GALÁPAGOS

small ships, BIG adventures

800-50060006 UnCruise.com

UnCruise Adventures defined: uncruise.com/uncyclopedia

CRUISE PLUS: HOTEL REVIEW Clockwise from left: the resort’s central lagoon; a Sala Pool Villa; the author during her Muay Thai lesson.

HOTEL REVIEW

Beachside hideaway For private relaxation and adventure in equal measure, Teresa Ooi finds Anantara fits the bill.

Y

ou can’t get more romantic than dining in splendid isolation by the beach with your own private chef and butler, the only distraction the sound of waves crashing on the beach.

And here we are, under a canopy of fluttering, white chiffon drapes held up by bamboo poles; the candle-lit table covered with red roses, white flowers and excellent Thai food.

This is Dining by Design, a private, alfresco experience at Anantara Mai Khao villas, the luxury resort on the northern tip of Phuket island, the largest in Thailand.

The resort consists of of 91 exclusive pool villas clustered around a lagoon in a southern Thai-style village. It overlooks a prime stretch of Mai Khao beach in Phuket where you can go horse riding, do yoga at dawn or simply swim in crystal water.

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Villas are large, between 186 and 530sqm in size, each with a private pool, a sun deck with loungers, an outdoor bath and a wooden cabana with a daybed decked out with comfortable pillows.

We’re ensconced in a Sala Pool Villa, an open-plan Thai bungalow of 206sqm, designed in clean lines with a day bed by one window and a working desk (if you must) by another. A coffee machine, kettle and designer tea bags are provided.

The adjoining dressing room has walk-in wardrobes, storage space and a dressing table and chair. The high-ceilinged marble bathroom has a rain shower stocked with Bulgari and Anantara spa toiletries, and opens up to the outdoor swimming pool. It is a villa elegantly designed for comfort.

The resort is particularly popular with wealthy Russians, British and Chinese

holidaymakers escaping their chilly winters; many come en famille and take villas for several weeks.

You can do as much or little as you like here. Go for a spin on the free bikes, book a spot at the tennis courts, borrow kayaks and paddleboards, or take lessons in sailing, windsurfing, scuba diving or game fishing. Or head to the main pool that stretches the length of the beachfront and has shaded cabanas and a bar you can swim up to for your fresh coconut or margarita.

For a taste of local gamesmanship, we sign up for a Muay Thai boxing class where the instructor teaches us how to spar Thai style; we quickly realise it takes more than a boxing glove to improve hip mobility and leg strength.

Lunch at beachside grill restaurant Sea. Fire. Salt. is a lesson in Himalayan salt

CRUISE PLUS: HOTEL REVIEW

+ ​Take me there

FLY: Flight Centre has return fares to Phuket from Sydney with Qantas from $811 and Singapore Airlines from $974. flightcentre.com.au STAY: Anantara Mai Khao villas, a luxury resort of villas with private pools.

Prices for a villa start at $550 per night including breakfast. Visit anantara.com

brick cooking, in which the food is grilled on a slab of salt for extra complexity of flavour. For dinner we visit The Tree House for an Arabic meal and are surprised and delighted by our assortment of cold and hot mezze followed by a main course of grilled shish kebab and chicken.

If you fancy afternoon tea, try the champagne high tea at The Tree House, where a variety of Thai desserts, western cakes and sandwiches are served in a decorative bird cage. The only problem – how can you possibly manage dinner after that?

In a bid to indulge further, we treat ourselves to a 90-minute signature massage at the salubrious Anantara Spa which uses both Elemis and its own spa products. With traditional kneading techniques to release muscular knots and

tension, the massage paves the way for a very restful sleep that night.

No visit to Phuket is complete without a private catamaran trip to nearby Phang Nga Bay and James Bond Island, where The Man with the Golden Gun was filmed in 1974. However, as the Thai Princess is visiting the island during our trip, we have to anchor in the bay. We go kayaking around the limestone outcrops, and with the help of Captain Charlie we cast a line off the boat and catch several large fish.

On our last day, we sign up for a cooking class and make Thai fish cakes and green curry. Not only are both dishes delicious, but we each walk away with a certificate, an apron and a wooden chopping block.

Anantara Mai Khao villas are special, an unspoilt beachside resort that’s perfect for both families and couples alike. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: AIRLINE REVIEW

AIRLINE REVIEW

FLY BY THE SEAT OF YOUR PANTS You get what you pay for when it comes to comfort on Scoot, writes Peter Lynch.

L

ove the idea of fly cruise but can’t stand the thought of hours packed like a sardine in cattle class? Well, there is another way…

ScootPlus offers you a seat bigger – and more comfortable – than most Premium Economy flights. You can fly ScootPlus – basically a Business Class seat – from Sydney to Singapore for $510. A similar Singapore Airlines Premium Economy flight, according to Flight Centre, would set you back $1,623 one way. There is a downside, of course. The seat is just about all you get.

There is a set meal. And when we tested Scoot a couple of years back, it was great. A plate of chicken rice and a Tiger beer, both delicious Singapore staples, were a welcome introduction to the Asian island known as a foodie paradise.

These days, they’ve decided to match the meals according to the route you’re flying – producing a menu impossible to understand. We had actually ordered char kway teow from the airline’s website, which had promised us a choice, but naturally it’s only served on the Athens sector and the meal we are getting on our flight to Singapore is Oriental Treasure Rice with Chinese sausages and mushroom. It could be worse; that plate of chicken rice has undergone a maniacal transformation and someone has added a crab stick, that fiendish limp substitute for fresh seafood. I opt for a $4 curry puff instead. At least the Tiger is the same.

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You can’t really complain when you are saving more than $1,000, but the budget airline mantra – you bought the seat, everything else is extra – applies in spades aboard this jolly, yellow-painted Boeing 787 Dreamliner.

There are three empty seats in front of us with extra leg room. We are not sitting together so we pop into them for a chat. Seconds later, an eagleeyed Scootee (hostess) moves in and suggests we pay for the extra leg room. “You want a blanket?

Pillow? Eye mask? No problem. We take payWave!”

You can download the entertainment app and watch a movie on your phone (or tablet, if you brought one with you) – included in our ScootPlus fare but for an extra fee, of course, in economy.

We travelled on to Phuket with Scoot Economy.

The two-hour flight was fine and cost hundreds of dollars less than full-service rivals. Even though our Scootees looked like teenage schoolgirls, they managed the short flight with ease.

On our way back to Sydney we travelled in Singapore Airlines Premium Economy, where magazines abounded, noise cancelling headphones and a full movie and TV service were included. We were served beef and ginger and vanilla ice-cream – and we had a glass of champagne.

Was it worth the extra? Well, you pays your money and you takes your choice. I know where I’ll be flying!

CRUISE PLUS: AIRLINE REVIEW

+ Fact file Scoot Flight TR3 Sydney to Singapore Seat: 2D – ScootPlus leather seat with 38 inches of leg room, six inches of recline and a leg rest Baggage: 30kg + inflight bag Meal: One, which can be pre-ordered, plus one beverage, including alcohol Entertainment: download the app, watch it on your own device WiFi: 30MB of internet use

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CRUISE PLUS: FOOD

From the comfort of her own room, Sue Bryant checks out what’s on the menu.

T

here are times on a cruise when you just want to hole up in your cabin and watch a movie.

Or enjoy a romantic dinner on your private balcony. Or order in pizza, rather than put away yet another five-course meal.

Room service, of course, is the solution. All luxury cruise lines offer this, although what you get varies considerably from one to the next.

Regent Seven Seas Cruises focuses on comfort food on its room service menu and during normal hours you can also order from the Compass Rose restaurant, with a daily changing menu. Essentially, though, the in-room menu offers salads, soups, sandwiches, salads and burgers, including the Impossible burger for vegans. Mains include grilled tiger shrimp, Indian butter chicken, stir-fry, pasta, 86

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beef medallions and grilled salmon. Desserts like white chocolate and croissant pudding, and chocolate and pecan brownie follow.

Silversea offers classic 24-hour room service on its fleet and will set up a table with white cloth either in your suite or on the balcony. There’s an extensive range of appetisers, soups, salads, entrees and desserts – as well as more snacky items like wraps, sandwiches and burgers. The cheese menu is a bonus – and you can even order a pot of caviar to munch in bed, although there’s an extra charge for this.

Crystal Cruises’ room service menu focuses on comfort food, offering a range of soups, salads, burgers and sandwiches, as well as heartier mains of beef, chicken and fish. What’s good about Crystal is that you can order from the menu in the main Waterside Restaurant during dining hours, making room service more of a special occasion. Suite guests can go a step further and order from the specialty restaurant menus, summoning sushi and sashimi from Umi Uma, the Nobu restaurant onboard or classy Italian dishes from Prego.

CRUISE PLUS: FOOD

Cabin cuisine

Silversea offers elegant in-room dining across its fleet.

menus in their designated restaurants so you can lounge in front of a movie in your bathrobe, tucking into lobster thermidor or a twice-baked cheese soufflé.

SeaDream Yacht Club offers a 24/7 room service menu but the cabins are pretty compact and don’t have balconies, so if you’re feeling unsociable, just ask the maître d’ to set up a table for two (or one) on one of the aft decks; this is one of the joys of sailing on such small ships, with arguably some of the finest cuisine at sea and outdoor dining an everyday event.

Oceania Cruises serves a continental breakfast as room service, but only suite passengers have the option of hot breakfast. There’s an all-day menu featuring anything from California rolls to crème brulée – but remember that on Oceania’s smaller ships the standard cabins are pretty compact, so you won’t get the full dining table setup that you might on a luxury ship.

Mainstream cruise lines all offer varying degrees of room service, some with a charge, some without. Worth noting is Princess Cruises’ Ultimate Balcony Dining.

A waiter will set up a table on your balcony, complete with flowers and candles (battery powered, of course), and pour champagne before serving a four-course meal including items like lobster or steak, course by course, disappearing after each one to up the romantic factor.

A breakfast version is available, with half a bottle of champagne, pastries, fresh fruits, smoked salmon and quiche. Dinner costs $148 for two, breakfast $67.

Seabourn has a small selection of comfort dishes on its room service menu, available 24 hours, with anything from a cheese plate to club sandwiches and pasta. Guests can also order from the menu in The Restaurant during dining hours, which makes room service on Seabourn an attractive proposition, as it gives you a choice of starters, soups, mains and desserts, as well as the “always available” dishes.

Dishes by Michelin-starred chef Thomas Keller, who has a venue on each Seabourn ship, appear every two days on the menu in The Restaurant. Keep an eye out for these if you’re dining in-suite as they’re outstanding; more intricate than the dishes you’ll find in The Grill by Thomas Keller, which does have some great vegetarian options.

Cunard’s three Queens have room service available 24/7. Anybody can order from the room service menu, which features everything from smoked salmon bagels to Mexican quesadillas, sirloin steak with chips and chicken fajitas. Guests of Princess Grill and Queens Grill, if in a reclusive mood, can also order off the cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: WELLNESS

Namaste

88

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If you’re in need of a detox, a stretch or some zen, head to Bali’s Desa Seni retreat, writes Rose Jacobs.

b

ali has many faces. The frenetic energy of Seminyak has long attracted hens and stags looking for a good night out, while the lush resorts make for a safe family-friendly holiday. But there is a newer wave of travellers, those looking for mindful holidays to rest and recharge.

Ubud has traditionally been the go-to area for relaxation. But closer to Denpasar, where you’ll find Bali’s airport, is the town of Canggu, which is now filled with health resorts, vegan restaurants and smoothie bars.

One of the many resorts is Desa Seni. Set among the rice paddy fields, this is not your traditional hotel. It’s

CRUISE PLUS: WELLNESS

Clockwise from left: the main pool; the on-site vegetable garden; a yoga class; a treatment at the spa.

a converted traditional Indonesian village set up for those seeking the ultimate chilled break. With accommodation ranging from The Village Cabin, which is the smallest house for a single person, to Village Homes that can accommodate up to four people, these open plan villas are made from centuries-old timber and each has unique touches such as local antiques so no two bungalows are the same.

Days are filled with yoga classes for varying levels of ability; every day, there are four or five different classes taught by experts in the outdoor studios. The yoga styles vary, as do the teachers, and classes are designed to suit every level of fitness, with 60 to 90-minute sessions from sunrise to sunset.

Desa Seni also offers everchanging events such as moon worship, talks from mindfulness experts and sound therapy sessions.

The beauty of the schedule is

that you can pick and choose experiences however you please – there are no expectations or compulsory sessions.

One thing you can’t miss though is a visit to the in-house Merapu Svaasthya Spa. Located right behind the main saltwater swimming pool, the spa offers guests all the traditional Eastern and Western spa treatments like massages and facials (at wonderful Balinese prices).

After your 90 minutes of deep tissue therapy you can stumble in a daze straight back to your poolside deckchair and doze off or, if you’re feeling a little more adventurous, you can book in advance for a tantric training session where an instructor gives you advice on how to spice up your relationship.

When the hunger kicks in, meander around the manicured lawns and vegetable gardens and find a seat at a table inside the restaurant, a breezy traditional hut with a menu that nurtures the body.

Eighty per cent of ingredients used are grown and produced within the village and meals are mostly vegan, vegetarian or pescatarian, presented with great attention to detail. This is as good as farm-totable dining can get.

For breakfast, the standout is telur fonseca; eggs poached in a tomato, turmeric, garbanzo, tofu and bok choy medley, while for lunch my recommendation is the

fish tacos with grilled tuna, cabbage, tomato, avocado, and pineapple and cilantro chutney on flour tortillas.

And my best dinner experience was the blackened tofu and tempeh in Tunisian spices with cherry tomatoes and avocado over organic Bali red rice.

When you’re ready to explore further afield, grab a scooter from reception for $10 a day and make the five-minute trip into Canggu, a mecca for coffee lovers with cafes that cater to every modern coffee order imaginable, including your macadamia milk latte with organic raw sugar. You’ll also find some exceptional restaurants like One Eyed Jack, a Japanese restaurant founded by a former Nobu chef and offering an impressive sake menu.

In Seminyak, 20 minutes in the other direction, check out the locals’ favourite Motel Mexicola and take a break from wellness with tacos and cocktails.

Shopping options are also obviously designed to cater for the wellness tribe with small boutiques offering home décor, activewear with a Balinese twist, organic linen and cotton fashion and more. Don’t miss Kim Soo’s interiors store and chic outdoor cafe.

If all this gets too overwhelming, fear not, your home away from home will welcome you back with a big Balinese smile and everything you need to realign the mind, body and soul the minute you walk back through the (open air) door.

+ ​Take me there

COST: Prices start at $224 per night for a single occupancy Village Cabin, and go to $500 for a Village Home that can sleep up to four people. desaseni.com FLY: Most major airlines fly to Bali regularly from main cities in Australia. Qantas offers return flights from Sydney to Denpasar from $775 in May.

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89

CRUISE PLUS: TIPS & ADVICE

SOLO NO MORE

Travelling alone, as liberating as it is, can be lonely at times. Fear not!

Here are seven tips to help you find some cruise buddies – and maybe even friends for life.

1

Get social before you cruise

•

Solo cruisers can get in touch with like-minded travellers on social media before they cruise. Groups on Facebook like Australian Cruise Solos, Solo and Single Cruises and Cruise Circle for Solos offer tips and advice on travelling by yourself, and can connect you with other people on your cruise. These groups are invaluable for letting you get to know the solos you’ll be travelling with before you even step aboard the ship.

2

Sign up for shore excursions

•

One great way to meet new people is by signing up to shore excursions. Generally, people on cruises are friendly and are in it for a good time. On a shore excursion, whether it’s a bus tour or a hike, you’ll have lots of interaction with fellow cruisers with whom you already know you have interests in common.

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CRUISE PLUS: TIPS & ADVICE

3

Dine at a large table

•

Many cruise lines still have assigned seating at dinner; if you want to spend some time alone there is the option to eat by yourself but sitting at a larger table with strangers means you can meet and mingle with other cruisers. This is a great way to get to know people, especially if you’re assigned to the same table with the same dinner companions every evening.

4

Go to lots of events

•

Make sure you check the daily itinerary for a long list of activities, which will include meet and greets as well as specific solo gatherings where you’ll meet other cruisers sailing by themselves. Even if the events might not be appealing, you’re bound to make friends. Some cruise veterans also suggest heading to the ship’s piano bar on the first night, which is supposedly where a lot of other solo cruisers hang out.

5

Pick your cruise line

•

It may seem counterintuitive, but smaller ships are usually better for solo cruisers keen to make friends. While larger cruise ships might have more passengers and more programs, tours and classes, smaller ships provide a more intimate setting and give solo guests an opportunity to meet the same people over again.

6

Look for solo cabins

•

There is a rise in the number of cruise ships accommodating solo travellers with studio cabins in which guests pay no single supplement. Norwegian Cruise Lines first introduced these intimate cabins, which come with a full-size bed, television and dresser. As a solo traveller with NCL, you’ll also get extra perks like access to a solo and singles-dedicated lounge where you can meet like-minded cruisers.

7

Share with a stranger

•

If you’re game, sharing a cabin with a stranger means that you don’t have to fork out the cost of a single supplement – and you might make a friend for life. Some travel agents help pair solo travellers and Holland America Line will even directly try to facilitate a shared room if that’s what you fancy. Otherwise, you can use the solo cruising groups on Facebook to find and chat to potential bunk buddies before booking.

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PORT SCHEDULE DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

BRISBANE, QUEENSLAND

Whitehaven Beach, QLD

Port Schedule Cruise ships calling at Australia and New Zealand, March 2020 - May 2020 DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA 1-MAR-20 9-MAR-20 10-MAR-20 11-MAR-20 11-MAR-20 15-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 20-MAR-20 23-MAR-20 27-MAR-20 30-MAR-20 31-MAR-20

RADIANCE OF THE SEAS SEVEN SEAS MARINER QUEEN MARY 2 PACIFIC ARIA COSTA DELIZIOSA SUN PRINCESS SEABOURN ENCORE SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA EXPLORER DREAM PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA SEABOURN SOJOURN

ROYAL CARIBBEAN REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES CUNARD P&O CRUISES COSTA CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES DREAM CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES

AIRLIE BEACH, QUEENSLAND 1-MAR-20 5-MAR-20 6-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 10-MAR-20 13-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 25-MAR-20 26-MAR-20 26-MAR-20 28-MAR-20 29-MAR-20 4-APR-20 6-APR-20 9-APR-20 23-APR-20 23-APR-20 24-APR-20 27-APR-20

QUEEN MARY 2 PACIFIC DAWN SEVEN SEAS MARINER CRYSTAL SERENITY PACIFIC EXPLORER QUEEN ELIZABETH PACIFIC DAWN VIKING ORION PACIFIC DAWN CELEBRITY SOLSTICE GOLDEN PRINCESS AZAMARA JOURNEY SILVER MUSE PACIFIC DAWN SUN PRINCESS VOYAGER OF THE SEAS PACIFIC DAWN SEABOURN SOJOURN PACIFIC DAWN

CUNARD P&O CRUISES REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES CRYSTAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES CUNARD P&O CRUISES VIKING P&O CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES AZAMARA CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES P&O CRUISES

ALBANY, WESTERN AUSTRALIA 11-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 27-MAR-20

92

SUN PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS SILVER WHISPER

PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES

cruisepassenger.com.au

23-FEB-20 1-MAR-20 3-MAR-20 3-MAR-20 4-MAR-20 7-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 11-MAR-20 14-MAR-20 21-MAR-20 23-MAR-20 24-MAR-20 25-MAR-20 26-MAR-20 28-MAR-20 28-MAR-20 2-APR-20 14-APR-20 18-APR-20 21-APR-20

SEA PRINCESS NORWEGIAN JEWEL QUEEN MARY 2 PACIFIC DAWN SEVEN SEAS MARINER PACIFIC DAWN SEA PRINCESS QUEEN ELIZABETH PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN VIKING ORION PACIFIC DAWN SEABOURN ENCORE AZAMARA JOURNEY PACIFIC DAWN CELEBRITY SOLSTICE GOLDEN PRINCESS QUEEN ELIZABETH OVATION OF THE SEAS VOYAGER OF THE SEAS

PRINCESS CRUISES NORWEGIAN JEWEL CUNARD P&O CRUISES REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CUNARD P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES VIKING P&O CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES AZAMARA CRUISES P&O CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CUNARD ROYAL CARIBBEAN ROYAL CARIBBEAN

BURNIE, TASMANIA 3-MAR-20 4-MAR-20 5-MAR-20 6-MAR-20 7-MAR-20 13-MAR-20 17-MAR-20 18-MAR-20 24-MAR-20 27-MAR-20 28-MAR-20 4-APR-20 26-MAY-20

SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR SEVEN SEAS MARINER PACIFIC ARIA QUEEN ELIZABETH SILVER MUSE SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA SUN PRINCESS EXPLORER DREAM SILVER MUSE QUEEN ELIZABETH SEABOURN SOJOURN INSIGNIA

REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES P&O CRUISES CUNARD SILVERSEA CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES DREAM CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES CUNARD SEABOURN CRUISES OCEANIA CRUISES

CAIRNS, QUEENSLAND 5-MAR-20 7-MAR-20 7-MAR-20 9-MAR-20 9-MAR-20 12-MAR-20 24-MAR-20 26-MAR-20 27-MAR-20 29-MAR-20 29-MAR-20 30-MAR-20 31-MAR-20 1-APR-20 6-APR-20 10-APR-20 21-APR-20 22-APR-20 11-MAY-20 27-MAY-20

EXPLORER DREAM SEVEN SEAS MARINER WIND SPIRIT COSTA DELIZIOSA CRYSTAL SERENITY AMSTERDAM MSC MAGNIFICA CORAL DISCOVERER VIKING ORION SEABOURN ENCORE GOLDEN PRINCESS AZAMARA JOURNEY SEA PRINCESS SEABOURN ENCORE SILVER MUSE SUN PRINCESS SEABOURN SOJOURN LE LAPEROUSE SILVER EXPLORER EXPLORER DREAM

DREAM CRUISES REGENT SEVEN SEAS WINDSTAR CRUISES COSTA CRUISES CRYSTAL CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE MSC CRUISES CORAL EXPEDITIONS VIKING SEABOURN CRUISE LINE PRINCESS CRUISES AZAMARA CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES PONANT SILVERSEA CRUISES DREAM CRUISES

COOKTOWN, QUEENSLAND 8-MAR-20

SEVEN SEAS MARINER

REGENT SEVEN SEAS

DARWIN, NORTHERN TERRITORY 6-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 11-MAR-20 13-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 17-MAR-20 23-MAR-20 28-MAR-20 30-MAR-20 31-MAR-20

PACIFIC EXPLORER EXPLORER DREAM SEVEN SEAS MARINER CRYSTAL SERENITY AMSTERDAM QUEEN ELIZABETH WIND SPIRIT SEA PRINCESS MSC MAGNIFICA VIKING ORION

P&O CRUISES DREAM CRUISES REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRYSTAL CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE CUNARD WINDSTAR CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES MSC CRUISES VIKING

DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

4-APR-20 6-APR-20 9-APR-20 10-APR-20 15-APR-20 17-APR-20 22-APR-20 23-APR-20 28-APR-20 7-MAY-20 8-MAY-20 14-MAY-20 23-MAY-20 28-MAY-20 28-MAY-20

AZAMARA JOURNEY SEABOURN ENCORE CORAL DISCOVERER SILVER MUSE CORAL ADVENTURER SEABOURN SOJOURN QUEEN ELIZABETH CORAL DISCOVERER VOYAGER OF THE SEAS CORAL ADVENTURER LE LAPEROUSE CORAL DISCOVERER WIND SPIRIT LE LAPEROUSE CORAL ADVENTURER

AZAMARA CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES CORAL EXPEDITIONS SILVERSEA CRUISES CORAL EXPEDITIONS SEABOURN CRUISE LINE CUNARD CORAL EXPEDITIONS ROYAL CARIBBEAN CORAL EXPEDITIONS PONANT CORAL EXPEDITIONS WINDSTAR CRUISES PONANT CORAL EXPEDITIONS

EDEN, NEW SOUTH WALES 7-MAR-20 10-MAR-20 15-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 21-MAR-20 27-MAR-20 29-MAR-20 31-MAR-20 2-APR-20 15-APR-20 10-MAY-20 16-MAY-20

SEABOURN ENCORE QUEEN ELIZABETH PACIFIC EXPLORER CELEBRITY SOLSTICE SEABOURN ENCORE EXPLORER DREAM PACIFIC EXPLORER QUEEN ELIZABETH NOORDAM NOORDAM PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE CUNARD P&O CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISE LINE DREAM CRUISES P&O CRUISES CUNARD HOLLAND AMERICA LINE HOLLAND AMERICA LINE P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

HAMILTON ISLAND, QUEENSLAND 8-MAR-20 25-MAR-20

CRYSTAL SERENITY VIKING ORION

1-MAR-20 2-MAR-20 3-MAR-20 4-MAR-20 5-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 9-MAR-20 11-MAR-20 12-MAR-20 13-MAR-20 14-MAR-20 14-MAR-20 15-MAR-20 15-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 22-MAR-20 23-MAR-20 29-MAR-20 6-APR-20 8-APR-20

NOORDAM CORAL DISCOVERER PACIFIC ARIA QUEEN ELIZABETH RADIANCE OF THE SEAS COSTA DELIZIOSA SILVER MUSE CORAL DISCOVERER SEABOURN ENCORE QUEEN ELIZABETH QUEEN ELIZABETH SEA PRINCESS MSC MAGNIFICA PACIFIC ARIA VIKING ORION PACIFIC ARIA CORAL DISCOVERER AZAMARA JOURNEY EXPLORER DREAM EXPLORER DREAM NOORDAM SEABOURN SOJOURN SEABOURN SOJOURN

CRYSTAL CRUISES VIKING

HOBART, TASMANIA HOLLAND AMERICA LINE CORAL EXPEDITIONS P&O CRUISES CUNARD ROYAL CARIBBEAN COSTA CRUISES SILVERSEA CORAL EXPEDITIONS SEABOURN CRUISE LINE CUNARD CUNARD PRINCESS CRUISES MSC CRUISES P&O CRUISES VIKING P&O CRUISES CORAL EXPEDITIONS AZAMARA CRUISES DREAM CRUISES DREAM CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE SEABOURN CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES

KANGAROO ISLAND, Â SOUTH AUSTRALIA 26-FEB-20 29-FEB-20 1-MAR-20 11-MAR-20 12-MAR-20 15-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 22-MAR-20 24-MAR-20 26-MAR-20 30-MAR-20 2-APR-20 4-MAY-20 22-MAY-20

PACIFIC ARIA ASTOR PACIFIC ARIA SEVEN SEAS MARINER PACIFIC ARIA SEABOURN ENCORE SUN PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA SILVER WHISPER PACIFIC ARIA SEABOURN SOJOURN PACIFIC ARIA QUEEN ELIZABETH INSIGNIA

P&O CRUISES CRUISE & MARITIME VOYAGES P&O CRUISES REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES P&O CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISE LINE PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES P&O CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES P&O CRUISES CUNARD OCEANIA CRUISES

PORT SCHEDULE DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

MELBOURNE, VICTORIA 1-MAR-20 2-MAR-20 3-MAR-20 3-MAR-20 4-MAR-20 5-MAR-20 5-MAR-20 6-MAR-20 7-MAR-20 7-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 9-MAR-20 10-MAR-20 12-MAR-20 14-MAR-20 14-MAR-20 17-MAR-20 18-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 21-MAR-20 22-MAR-20 23-MAR-20 25-MAR-20 28-MAR-20 31-MAR-20 2-APR-20 6-APR-20 8-APR-20 23-APR-20

SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR CARNIVAL SPIRIT RADIANCE OF THE SEAS COSTA DELIZIOSA SEABOURN ENCORE SILVER MUSE SEABOURN ENCORE PACIFIC ARIA QUEEN ELIZABETH SEVEN SEAS MARINER QUEEN MARY 2 PACIFIC ARIA GOLDEN PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT SEABOURN ENCORE VIKING ORION SEABOURN ENCORE SUN PRINCESS SEABOURN ENCORE AZAMARA JOURNEY SILVER WHISPER GOLDEN PRINCESS EXPLORER DREAM SILVER MUSE NOORDAM SEABOURN SOJOURN GOLDEN PRINCESS PACIFIC EXPLORER CELEBRITY SOLSTICE

REGENT SEVEN SEAS CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE ROYAL CARIBBEAN COSTA CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISE LINE SILVERSEA CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES CUNARD REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES CUNARD P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE SEABOURN CRUISE LINE VIKING SEABOURN CRUISE LINE PRINCESS CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISE LINE AZAMARA CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES DREAM CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE SEABOURN CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES

MORETON ISLAND, QUEENSLAND 21-MAR-20 24-MAR-20 25-MAR-20 1-APR-20 9-MAY-20 13-MAY-20 20-MAY-20

PACIFIC EXPLORER SEABOURN ENCORE PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPLENDOR PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER

P&O AUSTRALIA SEABOURN CRUISE LINE P&O AUSTRALIA P&O AUSTRALIA CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O AUSTRALIA P&O AUSTRALIA

NEWCASTLE, NEW SOUTH WALES 21-MAR-20 21-MAR-20 4-APR-20

CELEBRITY SOLSTICE VIKING ORION GOLDEN PRINCESS

CELEBRITY CRUISES VIKING PRINCESS CRUISES

PERTH (FREMANTLE), WESTERN AUSTRALIA 4-MAR-20 10-MAR-20 14-MAR-20 15-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 18-MAR-20 21-MAR-20 22-MAR-20 24-MAR-20 27-APR-20 28-MAR-20 1-MAY-20 4-MAY-20 12-MAY-20 22-MAY-20 25-MAY-20

ASTOR SUN PRINCESS QUEEN MARY 2 EXPLORER DREAM COSTA DELIZIOSA SEVEN SEAS MARINER SEA PRINCESS SEABOURN SOJOURN SEA PRINCESS QUEEN ELIZABETH SILVER WHISPER SAPPHIRE PRINCESS SAPPHIRE PRINCESS SAPPHIRE PRINCESS SAPPHIRE PRINCESS SAPPHIRE PRINCESS

CRUISE & MARITIME VOYAGES PRINCESS CRUISES CUNARD DREAM CRUISES COSTA CRUISES REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CUNARD SILVERSEA CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES

PORT DOUGLAS, QUEENSLAND 8-MAR-20 18-MAR-20 30-MAR-20 8-APR-20 11-APR-20 29-APR-20 28-MAY-20

WIND SPIRIT PACIFIC DAWN GOLDEN PRINCESS PACIFIC DAWN SUN PRINCESS PACIFIC DAWN EXPLORER DREAM

WINDSTAR CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES DREAM CRUISES

DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

PORT LINCOLN, SOUTH AUSTRALIA 12-MAR-20 14-MAR-20 20-MAR-20 24-MAR-20 29-MAR-20 31-MAR-20 19-MAY-20

SEVEN SEAS MARINER SUN PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA SEABOURN SOJOURN PACIFIC ARIA INSIGNIA

REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES P&O CRUISES OCEANIA CRUISES

SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES 1-MAR-20 1-MAR-20 2-MAR-20 2-MAR-20 3-MAR-20 3-MAR-20 5-MAR-20 5-MAR-20 6-MAR-20 6-MAR-20 7-MAR-20 7-MAR-20 7-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 9-MAR-20 10-MAR-20 11-MAR-20 12-MAR-20 12-MAR-20 13-MAR-20 14-MAR-20 15-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 17-MAR-20 18-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 20-MAR-20 21-MAR-20 21-MAR-20 21-MAR-20 22-MAR-20 22-MAR-20 23-MAR-20 23-MAR-20 24-MAR-20 24-MAR-20 25-MAR-20 27-MAR-20 27-MAR-20 28-MAR-20 28-MAR-20 30-MAR-20 30-MAR-20 31-MAR-20 31-MAR-20 2-APR-20 3-APR-20 3-APR-20 4-APR-20 5-APR-20 6-APR-20 7-APR-20 7-APR-20 8-APR-20 9-APR-20 10-APR-20 11-APR-20 11-APR-20 13-APR-20 14-APR-20 15-APR-20 15-APR-20

EXPLORER DREAM CARNIVAL SPLENDOR QUEEN ELIZABETH CELEBRITY SOLSTICE CRYSTAL SERENITY SILVER MUSE QUEEN MARY 2 COSTA DELIZIOSA COSTA DELIZIOSA QUEEN MARY 2 VOYAGER OF THE SEAS SEABOURN ENCORE AMSTERDAM RUBY PRINCESS AMSTERDAM SEABOURN ENCORE QUEEN ELIZABETH SEA PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPLENDOR OVATION OF THE SEAS ARTANIA PACIFIC EXPLORER RADIANCE OF THE SEAS PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER MSC MAGNIFICA MSC MAGNIFICA VOYAGER OF THE SEAS CARNIVAL SPLENDOR CELEBRITY SOLSTICE VIKING ORION SILVER WHISPER CELEBRITY SOLSTICE RUBY PRINCESS SUN PRINCESS SEABOURN ENCORE CARNIVAL SPLENDOR SEABOURN ENCORE OVATION OF THE SEAS PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT AZAMARA JOURNEY GOLDEN PRINCESS RADIANCE OF THE SEAS PACIFIC EXPLORER EXPLORER DREAM VOYAGER OF THE SEAS VOYAGER OF THE SEAS PACIFIC EXPLORER EXPLORER DREAM SILVER MUSE OVATION OF THE SEAS CARNIVAL SPLENDOR PACIFIC EXPLORER RUBY PRINCESS SUN PRINCESS PACIFIC EXPLORER RADIANCE OF THE SEAS SEA PRINCESS GOLDEN PRINCESS VOYAGER OF THE SEAS CARNIVAL SPLENDOR OVATION OF THE SEAS PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPLENDOR PACIFIC EXPLORER SUN PRINCESS NOORDAM

DREAM CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE CUNARD CELEBRITY CRUISES CRYSTAL CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES CUNARD COSTA CRUISES COSTA CRUISES CUNARD ROYAL CARIBBEAN SEABOURN CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE SEABOURN CRUISES CUNARD PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE ROYAL CARIBBEAN PHOENIX REISEN P&O CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES MSC CRUISES MSC CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE CELEBRITY CRUISES VIKING SILVERSEA CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE SEABOURN CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE AZAMARA CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES DREAM CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES DREAM CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

16-APR-20 18-APR-20 19-APR-20 20-APR-20 24-APR-20 24-APR-20 25-APR-20 27-APR-20 27-APR-20 28-APR-20 7-MAY-20 8-MAY-20 10-MAY-20 11-MAY-20 11-MAY-20 12-MAY-20 15-MAY-20 18-MAY-20 20-MAY-20 22-MAY-20 28-MAY-20

NOORDAM RADIANCE OF THE SEAS VOYAGER OF THE SEAS OVATION OF THE SEAS CARNIVAL SPLENDOR PACIFIC EXPLORER CELEBRITY SOLSTICE CARNIVAL SPLENDOR PACIFIC EXPLORER SEABOURN SOJOURN CARNIVAL SPLENDOR PACIFIC EXPLORER EXPLORER DREAM CARNIVAL SPLENDOR PACIFIC EXPLORER SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPLENDOR PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPLENDOR

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE ROYAL CARIBBEAN ROYAL CARIBBEAN ROYAL CARIBBEAN CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES DREAM CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE

THURSDAY ISLAND, QUEENSLAND 11-MAR-20 29-MAR-20 28-MAY-20 2-APR-20

WIND SPIRIT VIKING ORION WIND SPIRIT CORAL DISCOVERER

WINDSTAR CRUISES VIKING WINDSTAR CRUISES CORAL EXPEDITIONS

YORKEYS KNOB, QUEENSLAND 1-MAR-20 17-MAR-20 24-MAR-20 7-APR-20 24-APR-20 28-APR-20

COLUMBUS PACIFIC DAWN CELEBRITY SOLSTICE PACIFIC DAWN VOYAGER OF THE SEAS PACIFIC DAWN

CRUISE & MARITIME VOYAGES P&O CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES P&O CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES

AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND 1-MAR-20 3-MAR-20 4-MAR-20 5-MAR-20 7-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 8-MAR-20 9-MAR-20 10-MAR-20 12-MAR-20 12-MAR-20 13-MAR-20 16-MAR-20 17-MAR-20 17-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 19-MAR-20 23-MAR-20 30-MAR-20 31-MAR-20 1-APR-20 3-APR-20 11-APR-20 12-APR-20 12-APR-20 14-APR-20 14-APR-20 15-APR-20 22-APR-20 28-APR-20 29-APR-20 30-APR-20 4-MAY-20 8-MAY-20 12-MAY-20 22-MAY-20 25-MAY-20

MAASDAM AMSTERDAM SEA PRINCESS VIKING ORION MSC MAGNIFICA LE LAPEROUSE OVATION OF THE SEAS AZAMARA JOURNEY CELEBRITY SOLSTICE LE LAPEROUSE NOORDAM SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR OVATION OF THE SEAS RUBY PRINCESS SILVER MUSE GOLDEN PRINCESS NOORDAM RADIANCE OF THE SEAS LE LAPEROUSE EXPLORER DREAM CELEBRITY SOLSTICE RADIANCE OF THE SEAS NOORDAM RUBY PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA EXPLORER DREAM CELEBRITY SOLSTICE GOLDEN PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA EXPLORER DREAM CELEBRITY SOLSTICE PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE HOLLAND AMERICA LINE PRINCESS CRUISES VIKING MSC CRUISES PONANT ROYAL CARIBBEAN AZAMARA CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES PONANT HOLLAND AMERICA LINE REGENT SEVEN SEAS ROYAL CARIBBEAN PRINCESS CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE ROYAL CARIBBEAN PONANT DREAM CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN HOLLAND AMERICA LINE PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES DREAM CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES DREAM CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

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LAST WORD

The big let down The reality of travel rarely looks like the brochure. Chris Leadbeater reports.

Whale-watching The sales pitch: Fins and flukes galore. So many mammalian creatures of the deep, in fact, that you cannot keep count. Bottlenose dolphins to port, whales to starboard. Which whales? Oh, all of them, pretty much. Sperm whales, killer whales, blue whales. The actual Moby Dick, given shape from the pages of fiction.

Each of them dancing and playing for your pleasure, leaping fully clear of the water and holding the pose in direct symmetry with the bow of the ship.

The truth: An angry, yearning sea – probably the mid-Atlantic – where you feel the first keening hints of nausea the moment the prow goes beyond the harbour wall. Water a sullen grey-blue that is exactly the same shade as a whale’s tummy. A series of blurry photos that, you will tell your friends, definitely features a 40ft orca, pirouetting for your viewing pleasure, even though you aren’t convinced it isn’t just an out-of-focus seagull.

Cocktail tours The sales pitch: A stylish jaunt around a once crimeridden district that has recently been converted into a haven for hipsters and lushly bearded young people. Clever, inventive bars called The Slammer or The Gin Thing where gorgeous men with tattoos and cheekbones, or even tattooed cheekbones, pour you concoctions with names like It’s A Spritz Blitz, Fritz.

The truth: A stylish jaunt around a once crime-ridden district that has recently been converted into a haven for hipsters and lushly bearded young people – with the emphasis on the word “recently” in the case of Sixth and Seventh Streets, where the crack-dens are still in operation. “Stick with the group and don’t wander beyond the end of the block. If you get lost, dial 911 immediately.” The almost tangible contempt of the “mixologist” as he’s forced to stop talking to the young 94

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women at the bar to pour glasses of can’t-be-bothered for the group of tourists. Are you sure there’s vodka in this, mate? This is my third one and I’m more sober than when we started.

Airport lounges The sales pitch: Air travel for the discerning. A pause at the start or in the middle of your journey so utterly civilised and undeniably special that it becomes the journey, the actual flying bits being mere garnish to this smorgasbord of sophistication. Fine wines.

Gourmet food, prepared by a team of celebrity chefs.

The comforting feeling of being among other businessclass passengers and fellow movers and shakers. You’ve made it, Geoff. You’ve really made it now.

The truth: A frown and an over-complicated check of your details. The rat-a-tat-tat of lacquered nails on the keyboard as Front Desk Dragon searches for some reason, any reason, to deny you entry. Business magazines with the pages stuck together. What was once a mushroom risotto, congealing on not-very-hot plates to recipes that were phoned in five years ago by that chef off TV. Why do they always have miniature cans of cola in these places? Damn, my flight’s departing in four minutes. Why didn’t they announce it?

The northern lights The sales pitch: A carnival of colour, directly above your head. A riot of pink, green, cream and red, as if Odin and Thor have thrown open Valhalla for a massive all-night rave. All on display in a flawlessly bright sky, and so clearly that the whole spectacle will – undoubtedly – show up on your camera for you to show everyone on your return.

The truth: Two hours spent hanging around in a car park a few miles – but not enough miles to cancel out the light pollution – beyond a medium-sized Scandinavian town.

The realisation, two minutes after you’ve clambered off the bus, that your little woolly gloves are nowhere near thick enough to cope with a Nordic winter night. A streak of white, which may be the aurora borealis, but is probably just a cloud. Or an airplane contrail.

Aquariums The sales pitch: All the scaly things that live in the sea! But all in one place! For your entertainment!

The truth: Mummy, what are those dolphins doing to each other?

TALK TO AN EXPERT

Cruise with confidence How do you find the cruise that’s right for you?

Here are six ways a CLIAaccredited travel agent will keep you shipshape.

Travel agents accredited by Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) have completed additional education and training to become cruise specialists.

Visit www.cruising.org.au to find your nearest CLIA-accredited agent.

SAVE TIME A specialist travel agent will have a world of information at their fingertips, saving you hours of doing your own research online.

PROFESSIONAL ADVICE CLIA-accredited travel agents can give professional advice on every aspect of your travel, often from first-hand experience.

A PERSONAL TOUCH A specialist travel agent can recommend cruise options that best suit you. Your holiday will be bespoke – personally tailored for you.

SUSTAINABLE CRUISING A CLIA-accredited travel agent can help answer your questions about the cruise industry’s sustainability initiatives.

PEACE OF MIND Your travel agent can assist if you experience any disruption while you’re travelling. They’ll be able to take charge when you need help.

Book through a CLIA-accredited travel agent.

See www.cruising.org.au

Explore Australia in 2020 by cruise, rail & tour

Mindil Beach, Darwin

Sea Princess®

Simpsons Gap

The Ghan

Florence Falls, Litchfield

East Coast & Top End Explorer with The Ghan & Sun Princess®

Top End & The Kimberley Coast with Sun Princess® & The Ghan

East Coast & Top End Explorer with Sea Princess® & The Ghan Expedition

13 nights | 25 October 2020

16 nights | 21 October 2020

16 nights | 27 August 2020

➤ 2 nights aboard The Ghan travelling from Adelaide to Darwin in Gold or Platinum Service. Includes all meals, drinks & Off Train Experiences. ➤ 1 night stay in Darwin including breakfast, transfers & a 2-course dinner. ➤ 10 nights aboard Sun Princess® cruising from Darwin to Sydney with port calls in Alotau (Milne Bay) & Brisbane.

➤ 7 nights aboard Sun Princess® cruising from Perth (Fremantle) to Darwin with scenic cruising along the Kimberley Coast & a port call in Broome. ➤ Darwin City Sights tour with lunch. ➤ 6 night stay in Darwin including breakfast & transfers. ➤ Overnight Kakadu & East Alligator River tour. ➤ Full day Litchfield National Park Waterfalls tour including lunch. ➤ Lunch or dinner at Hotel Darwin. ➤ Charles Darwin Sunset Dinner Cruise including transfers. ➤ 2 nights aboard The Ghan travelling from Darwin to Adelaide in Gold or Platinum Service. Includes all meals, drinks & Off Train Experiences.

➤ Tour Host.* ➤ 10 nights aboard Sea Princess® cruising from Sydney to Darwin with port calls in Brisbane, Cairns & Alotau (Milne Bay). ➤ Darwin City Sights tour with lunch. ➤ 3 night stay in Darwin including breakfast & transfers. ➤ Lunch or dinner at Hotel Darwin. ➤ Full day Litchfield National Park Waterfalls tour including lunch. ➤ 3 nights aboard The Ghan Expedition travelling from Darwin to Adelaide in Gold or Platinum Service.

Includes all meals, drinks & Off Train Experiences.

from

$4,629 per person

from

Darwin Katherine

Alotau (Milne Bay)

$6,969 per person

from

Kimberley Coast (Scenic Cruising)

Darwin Katherine

$7,659 per person

Broome

Cairns

Alice Springs

Alice Springs Marla Brisbane

Manguri

Alice Springs Coober Pedy

Perth/Fremantle Adelaide

Sydney Adelaide

holidaysofaustralia.com.au holidays@holidaysofaustralia.com.au

Alotau (Milne Bay)

Darwin Katherine

FULLY HOSTED TOUR*

Brisbane Sydney Adelaide

1300 854 897

or contact your local licensed travel agent

Terms & Conditions: Prices are per person based on twin share in an interior cruise cabin & gold service rail unless otherwise stated. Inclusive of all discounts, taxes, fees & port expenses if applicable which are subject to change. Prices correct as at 04.02.20. Subject to availability. Airfares, hotels & transfers are additional unless otherwise stated. *Minimum of 20 passengers to guarantee tour host. Cancellation fees applies. For full terms & conditions contact Holidays of Australia and the World. E&OE. - HA2315