Cruise Passenger 82

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ISSUE 82 AUTUMN 2021

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READER COMPETITION

Cruise Passenger is Australia and New Zealand’s best source of news and reviews in the cruise industry, with almost 400,000 travellers relying on us to help them choose their next big break.

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Prize description/inclusion - An Australian or New Zealand voyage of your choice worth up to $7,996 with Celebrity Cruises.

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READER COMPETITION

a fabulous Celebrity cruise to New Zealand or around Australia worth up to $7,996

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

Raring to go

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elcome to our autumn edition, prepared when Australian cruising is quietly preparing for a return.

Around the globe, many lines are already upping anchor and setting sail in the new normal: vaccinated passengers and crew, and strict health protocols.

It is a proven model. In Singapore, Dream Cruises recently announced it had sailed its 100,000th passenger since restarting in November.

Amin Abdul Rahim – lucky number 100,000 – and his family were upgraded to The Palace suites to mark the milestone. “My family and I are extremely honoured to be the 100,000th cruise passenger as this is our first time on World Dream,” a delighted Mr Rahim said. You can read about Dream’s return to cruising from page 17.

Royal Caribbean has also been sailing out of Singapore with Quantum of the Seas. It’s been such a triumph that the season has been extended another three months.

The success of this enterprise is largely thanks to the forward thinking of Singapore’s government.

Annie Chang, director of cruise for the Singapore Tourism Board, says: “We are pleased with the efforts made by the cruise lines to ensure continual vigilance and adherence to health measures onboard, so that cruising is as safe as the experiences on land.”

In Australia, things are a little more complex. Cruise lines have to deal not only with the federal government’s health authorities, but also those in each state and territory. While, as our story on page 26 shows, the human cost of halting cruise is high, it has been a hard slog to convince these bodies to allow a resumption.

Throughout the past year, we have been asking you, our readers, what you think should happen next. Thanks to all who took part in our sentiment surveys; as always, your opinions are both thoughtful and intelligent, and sparked much debate among cruise line executives who regularly receive our reports to help shape their thinking.

Our latest survey is a case in point: as ship owners navigate this tricky terrain, confidence among the

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Passengers enjoy a Thai New Year celebration on World Dream.

Things change fast for today’s traveller.

Check cruise line websites or your CLIA travel agent for the latest on sailings

cruising public has grown. Close to 90 per cent of you say you believe vaccinations should be mandatory for everyone on board cruise ships, and 82 per cent say you would get the vaccine once it is available.

And the number of you who feel ready to sail right now has doubled. At the start of the year, 14 per cent of you told us you would board a cruise ship immediately. Now that number has swelled to 30 per cent, with almost 40 per cent actively looking for a cruise this year.

Through the year, your number one concern has been health and safety, along with flexible cancellation policies.

A lot of work has been done while the cruise fleet has been riding at anchor. Medical facilities have improved so much that large ships now boast mini hospitals, complete with isolation wards and ventilators. Air circulation systems have been changed to ensure safe ventilation, and crews are trained for any eventuality.

Cruise lines feel they are ready to go. And with Canberra now supporting airlines with cheap flights and possible travel bubbles to places like Singapore and New Zealand, it is time to step up and support this important part of our tourism infrastructure.

As Cruise Lines International Association managing director Joel Katz says on page 24: “Cruising is worth more than $5 billion a year to local economies in Australia and New Zealand and it supports more than 25,000 jobs...

With a revival in cruise tourism, we can help reignite local economies in destinations around our coasts.”

Peter Lynch Publisher, Cruise Passenger

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CONTENTS

cruıse passenger

Issue 82, Autumn 2021 Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au

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Deputy editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Art director/production manager Sylvia Weimer / Catherine Martin Sub editor Hannah Warren Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au Partnerships manager Kate Radcliffe kate@bigsplashmedia.com.au Digital manager Rupert Orchard Contributors and writers Jeni Bone, Sue Bryant, Bernadette Chua, Louise Goldsbury, Peter Lynch, Teresa Ooi, Rebecca Rachel Wong.

Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 - Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 - International cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine Printed by IVE

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AUTUMN 2021 6 / Big picture Slackliner Gabriel Aglio.

NEWS

10 / Around the world Grand voyages are proving this year’s hottest ticket.

14/ Short and sweet

Quick trips to get you back in the swing of things.

CRUISE MEDIA AUSTRALASIA

Cruise Passenger magazine is published

by Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Copyright Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders.

Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided.

Always consult your travel agent.

17 / Dare to dream

LUXURY ADVENTURE

34 / The Kimberley

SUPERYACHTS

50 / Sail of the century

Australia’s destination of the moment.

Golden Horizon is following the sun Down Under.

38 / Luxury expedition

54/ Private yachts

Ponant and Hurtigruten are heading off the beaten track.

A surprisingly accessible ultra-luxury holiday.

46 / Intrepid journeys

58/ Last word

Adventure leaders on their favourite destinations.

The world’s most Instafamous ship Captain.

Dream Cruises sets the standard for our new normal.

20 / Luxe deluxe Why luxury lines are enjoying a boom.

26 / The human cost The people behind the cancelled cruises.

28 / Up next New ships on the horizon.

30 / Best river trips Inland water cruises to start planning for.

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THE BIG PICTURE

THE BIG PICTURE G A B R I E L Brazillian Gabriel Aglio is a slackliner (like a tightrope walker) who, up until the pandemic, was wowing crowds in the AquaTheatre on Harmony of the Seas with his gravity-defying acrobatic feats.

He’s on Instagram @gabrielaglio.

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THE BIG PICTURE

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New discoveries await...

Princess is pleased to announce our largest ever program release, with a full 12 months of cruises on offer throughout 2022-2023. The year long season will feature 4 ships visiting 108 destinations in 33 countries with 90 unique itineraries.

Featuring popular cruises across Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific, as well as popular repositioning cruises to or from Asia & across

In 2023, Coral Princess sets sail on her world cruise to Greenland, the Mediterranean, Canada, The Americas as well as a transit of the historic locks of the Panama Canal.

The itinerary features 44 destinations in 26 countries across 6 continents. Guests will enjoy 10 late night stays and 3 overnight stays on this historic 107-night journey.

Princess MedallionClassTM available fleetwide from resumption of cruising and uses leading-edge technology so guests can enjoy a personalised and effortless holiday. Stay connected with fast & reliable WiFi, order food & beverages to your location on the ship and find your travelling companions with ease.

MedallionClass also offers a TrulyTouchlessTM experience from staggered boarding to contactless payment and stateroom entry.

LEARN MORE! Visit your Travel Agent | 1300 385 631 | princess.com 109_PC - Advert - Cruise Passenger _F.indd 1

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CruiseNews OCEAN • RIVER • ADVENTURE • PORTS

INSIDE

Viking Sun under the Panama Canal Bridge.

20 Why luxury lines are booming.

26 The human cost of every cancelled cruise.

30 The 13 best river cruises for 2021 and beyond.

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CRUISE NEWS

Round-the-world itineraries are the hottest selling cruises today.

Teresa Ooi discovers why these voyages are booking out so quickly.

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his is one of the most surprising trends of the post-pandemic travel booking bonanza: far from shunning long trips, cashed-up cruisers can’t get enough of world voyages.

And the longer the better. For many wealthy retirees, cruising the world on a luxury liner for more than 100 nights with everything taken care of – from food and wine to entertainment and shore excursions – is the ultimate holiday of a lifetime.

Perhaps it’s the convenience of not having to negotiate multiple airports; perhaps it is ticking off multiple bucketlist places in one trip; or perhaps there is an element of “revenge spending” after a year of being cooped up by COVID. Booking early for a world cruise often comes with extra bonuses thrown in – think onboard credit, included flights, discounts and first choice of cabins – but you need to be quick.

It looks like months of isolation have sparked a renewed interest in world cruises departing as far out as 2023.

When cruise itineraries were cancelled because of the pandemic, many lines gave future cruise credits (FCC) instead of refunds, and it wasn’t long before avid cruisers began using their credits to book world cruises.

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TAKE THE LONG WAY ROUND Viking Cruises has already sold out its 2021/2022 and 2022/2023 world cruises – a record for the premium line.

“Longer itineraries are resonating most with Australian consumers who are wanting to make up for lost time,” says Michelle Black, Viking’s managing director ANZ. Luxury line Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ 2023 world itinerary has also sold out because of “pent-up demand for future travel among Australians and Kiwis for the line’s Grand Voyages, including Oceania’s extended journeys spanning many weeks and across multiple continents,” says an RSSC spokesperson.

The joys of cruising all the way around the globe while enjoying lavish dinners, gala balls and bucket-list destinations has never been more attractive – even if it’s all conducted in post-pandemic socially distanced decorum.

Here’s a look at what’s on offer:

/ REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES The 143-night world cruise in 2023 will explore South America, the South Pacific Islands, Australia, Southeast Asia, India, the Middle East, Africa and Spain, calling at 72 ports over six continents.

Guests can also look forward to 356 free shore excursions including 48 UNESCO

World Heritage Sites, and a transit of the Panama Canal.

The five-month world cruise aboard Regent Seven Seas Mariner departs Miami on 7 January 2023 and ends in Barcelona on 30 May 2023, a voyage of more than 38,000 nautical miles.

Prices range from $77,999 to $208,999 pp, which includes first-class air fare, door-to-door luggage service, unlimited valet laundry, dry-cleaning and pressing, unlimited internet access and premium beverages. The cruise is already sold out, but you can join a waitlist.

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CRUISE NEWS

/ CUNARD Queen Victoria is sailing a 108-night round-trip world cruise departing Southampton and visiting 30 ports, including Sydney, Brisbane, Cairns, Bermuda, Fort Lauderdale, Aruba, Costa Rica, Mexico, San Francisco, Honolulu, Samoa, New Zealand, Papua New Guinea, Philippines, Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Sri Lanka, Mauritius, South Africa, Namibia and Spain, and includes a transit of the Panama Canal.

It departs Southampton on 10 January, 2022, and returns on 29 April, 2022, with

Longer itineraries are resonating most with Australian consumers who are wanting to make up for lost time.” prices starting from $27,199 pp for a Britannia inside cabin to $124,099 pp for a Queens Grill suite.

Guests in the top suites will have a butler, a well stocked mini-bar, pre-dinner canapés and a reserved table in the Queens Grill restaurant.

Queen Victoria can accommodate more than 2,000 passengers with 981 crew members at your beck and call. The Royal Court’s singers and dancers put on dazzling West End productions nightly as well as abridged Shakespearean plays, stand-up comedy and other shows. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS

/ PRINCESS CRUISES Coral Princess is sailing a 107-night round-trip world cruise, departing Sydney and visiting 41 incredible ports and hidden treasures including Singapore, Colombo, the Suez Canal, Mykonos, Rome, Barcelona, Lisbon, Reykjavik, Quebec, Halifax, the Panama Canal, Easter Island, Pitcairn Islands, Bora Bora, Auckland and the Bay of Islands.

The cruise departs Sydney on 4 June, 2023, and will visit 26 countries, 26 UNESCO World Heritage sites and six maiden ports: Elba, Italy; Marseille, France; Malaga, Spain; Tangier, Morocco; Belfast, Northern Ireland; and Invergordon, Scotland. There will also be overnight stays in Dubai, New York and Lima, which means passengers can explore the destinations in more depth.

Prices for the world cruise on the 2,000-passenger Coral Princess with 895 crew starts from $26,599 pp for an inside cabin and $79,999 pp for a suite.

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/ OCEANIA CRUISES It’s around the world in 180 days aboard Insignia departing San Francisco on 15 January, 2023. The voyage will take in 96 ports across 33 countries including 61 UNESCO World Heritage sites, 27 islands and 20 overnight stays.

Passengers will be able to revel in the rhythms of Rio de Janeiro, soak up the paradise of the Seychelles and explore charming Kyoto. There will be exclusive, private onshore events from an immersive Bedouin experience to a candlelight dinner in an ethereal Ha Long Bay grotto.

Other amazing destinations Insignia will visit include Acapulco, Santiago, Ushuaia, Sao Paulo, Salvador, Cape Town, Durban, Dubai, Mumbai, Goa, Cochin, Colombo, Yangon, Penang, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Saigon, Hue, Hanoi, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Tokyo, Juneau and Astoria.

Prices for an inside cabin start at $60,880 pp and, at the higher end, start at $215,980 pp for the Owner’s Suite.

/ CRYSTAL CRUISES Crystal Serenity is offering a spectacular 128-night world cruise odyssey visiting 70 UNESCO World Heritage marvels, including man-made wonders from the Panama Canal to the temples of Bagan and the pyramids of Giza.

The cruise will also let guests discover pristine islands such as Fiji and the Maldives and wilderness wonders from Papua New Guinea to Africa.

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CRUISE NEWS

Left, from top: the Viking Star Explorers Lounge; Chureito Pagoda and Mount Fuji, Japan; a colourful boat at Da Nang, Vietnam.

/ VIKING OCEAN CRUISES Viking has sold out its 138-day world journey in 2022-2023 onboard the 933-passenger Viking Neptune, which will visit 28 countries, departing Fort Lauderdale on 22 December, 2022, and ending in London on 9 May, 2023.

The voyage will explore French Polynesia, the South Pacific, New Zealand and Australia where passengers can immerse in Asia’s cultural treasures and sail the Arabian Sea to discover the ancient antiquities of the Middle East. There will be overnights in 11 destinations.

Prices start at $75,995 pp and run up to $243,995 pp for the owner’s suite. Fares include business class flights, US$2,000 pp shore excursions and US$1,000 pp shipboard credit.

From Fort Lauderdale you will cruise to Central America, the US, Bora Bora, New Zealand, Australia, Southeast Asia, Southern Asia, the Middle East, the Mediterranean, and Western Europe.

Viking has also sold out its 136-day world cruise on Viking Star in 2021/2022 with prices starting from $75,995 pp.

Above: Oceania Cruises in Sydney Harbour. Below: cruise passengers in Barcelona.

The world cruise departs Miami on 11 Jan, 2023, and ends in Venice on 19 May, 2023. Prices start at $87,639 pp, which includes US$1,000 air credit pp and shipboard credit of US$2,400 pp.

Passengers will cruise to the Bahamas, Central America, South America, including Easter Island, the Pacific Islands, Australia, Southeast Asia, Sri Lanka, India, the Maldives, Seychelles, the Middle East, the Mediterranean, Turkey and Croatia. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS

Cancel culture P&O Cruises “As we continue to take guidance from international and local government authorities, public health experts and the broader community, we have implemented a temporary pause in operations for all departures on and before 18 June, 2021.”

Princess Cruises “Princess Cruises is extending its pause in operations for cruises departing from Australia and New Zealand through May 31, 2021.”

Royal Caribbean “We have decided to extend the suspension of sailings for our global fleet through May 31, 2021, excluding sailings onboard Quantum, Spectrum, Voyager and Odyssey of the Seas. Our plan is to resume further operation in June.”

Norwegian Cruise Line “We have extended our voluntary suspension of all voyages through June 2021. We are... working closely and in partnership with local, state federal and global agencies.”

Carnival Cruise Line “Carnival Cruise Line is pausing operations for all Australian sailings... through to and including 28 June, 2021, as well all Carnival Spirit sailings through to and including 12 September, 2021.”

Cunard “Sailings on Queen Victoria are now cancelled for departures up to and including 27 August, 2021.

Queen Elizabeth’s... departures up to and including 11 October, 2021, are cancelled. Queen Mary 2’s current programme of departures up to and including 12 November, 2021, are cancelled."

Holland America Line “The company is extending its pause of European and Seattle roundtrip Alaska cruise operations to include departures through June 30, 2021.”

Viking Cruises "We have made the decision to extend our suspension of previously scheduled departures through May 31, 2021.”

Avalon Waterways “We have made the thoughtful decision to suspend operations through May 31, 2021.”

Things change quickly! Check cruisepassenger.com.au or your CLIA travel agent for the latest on sailings.

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Short and sweet Big ship operators are offering variety and local bookings for next year and beyond. Peter Lynch looks at what’s on offer.

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hort, sweet and local seems to be the order of the day for Australia and New Zealand sailings, if the itineraries on offer are anything to go by.

To counter a swing to smaller vessels, big ship lines are working hard to present cruisers with a smorgasbord of the best possible options to re-acclimatise us to holidays at sea.

Australia’s largest operator, Carnival, which owns Princess Cruises, Carnival Cruises and P&O, and Royal Caribbean have both put more short cruises among their offerings for 2021 and 2022.

Princess is looking at closer-to-home itineraries for 2021, sailing Royal Princess, Sapphire Princess, Coral Princess and Emerald Princess in local waters, while Royal Caribbean says its new season features more two- and three-night “sampler” cruises than ever before.

In another first, both Princess and Royal Caribbean have already put the 2022/23 program of voyages on the market.

The entire Princess fleet is now MedallionClass, including the two Royal-class sister ships, Royal Princess and Majestic Princess that are based in Sydney for the first time. Grand Princess will make her debut in Australia sailing out of Melbourne, while Coral Princess will return to Brisbane.

Unveiling the program, Princess Cruises’ senior vice president of Asia Pacific, Stuart Allison, said: “We hope that by releasing a full year’s worth of itineraries this far in advance, we can give our loyal cruisers a number of options to ignite some holiday inspiration for when we can travel again.”

Royal Caribbean also announced a blockbuster Australian wave season for 2022/23, including two

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CRUISE NEWS

Big ship lines are working hard to present a smorgasbord of the best possible options.” of its newest Quantum-class vessels, Ovation of the Seas and Radiance of the Seas, sailing out of Sydney.

While the line hasn’t given up on 2021, it has already opened bookings for next year’s sailings, which promise a renewed focus on Queensland, where Quantum of the Seas will sail out of Brisbane’s new International Cruise Terminals in October 2022.

“Quantum-class ships are in a league of their own in Australian waters — and we have two sailing in the

2022/2023 season,” says Gavin Smith, vice president and managing director of Royal Caribbean International, ANZ. “This calibre of ship isn’t seen elsewhere in this region, and their technological innovation and modern hardware open up a new audience to cruising.”

Quantum is the newest and most technologically advanced ship ever to homeport in Queensland, and with features like the RipCord by iFly skydiving simulator and FlowRider surf simulator, she offers a fabulous family holiday directly from the Sunshine State.

Ovation, a Sydney favourite, will sail her seventh Australian season with 20 itineraties, ranging from two to 19 nights, with summer stops in New Zealand, Queensland, the South Pacific and Australia. Radiance will offer destinations such as New Zealand, Great Barrier Reef, the South Pacific and Tasmania. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS

VIKING HEADS TO THE RIVER Viking Cruises, which owns the world’s largest river cruise fleet, has released a bumper brochure – featuring two years of sailings in a line first. Viking’s regional managing director, Michelle Black, says interest is high. “We are seeing strong sales for both the 2022 and 2023 river cruise seasons. The longer European itineraries are resonating most with Australian consumers,” says Ms Black. “For the first time we have included two seasons in our brochure: a full 2022 season and a preview of 2023, which allows travel agents and their clients to book further ahead... It also includes new destinations and our new ships on the Mekong, Mississippi and the Nile.”

INSIDE THE NEW MSC SEASHORE

ACCC ORDERS PASSENGER REFUNDS

MSC Cruises has revealed stunning renderings of their new ship, MSC Seashore. The stylish vessel, due to launch in August, will be the longest ship in the fleet.

She will have plenty of outdoor spaces and with a strong focus on swimming pools, of which there will be six, offering everything from waterparks to stylish poolside relaxation for adults. The infinity pool now extends up to the very end of the aft, with a glass wall for uninterrupted views of the ocean. Seashore will also have the largest and most luxurious Yacht Club, with 41 deluxe grand suites. On launch, she will cruise the Mediterranean, sailing to Malta, Spain, France and Italy.

Thousands of Australians will receive additional refunds for cancelled travel plans after the Australian Consumer and Competition Commission stepped in. The commission ordered cruise lines to stop deducting marketing and overhead costs from booking refunds and to reimburse customers who had previously had these costs withheld. The ACCC said it was concerned that cruise lines had been deducting, and representing to consumers that it was entitled to deduct, greater amounts from refunds than it was entitled to deduct under its terms and conditions. Managing director of Australian Pacific Holdings (parent company of APT and Travelmarvel), Chris Hall, said after the ruling that the ACCC had “a different interpretation of our terms and conditions."

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CRUISE NEWS

NO PIPE DREAM — HOW ASIA CONQUERED CRUISING IN A PANDEMIC Dream Cruises’ President Michael Goh tells Rebecca Rachel Wong about the line’s successful season in Singapore.

Dream Cruises welcomed their 100,000th passenger aboard World Dream recently. The line has been cruising with locals only out of Singapore since November, on itineraries without stops.

Now, the line’s president, Michael Goh, is eagerly anticipating a return to global cruising.

“Cruising has always been about the international market as well. But in a COVID world, welcoming flycruisers depends on government protocols and border arrangements. We are hopeful that in the near future, all international passengers, including Australians, will be able to come on board,” he told Cruise Passenger.

Voyages without port stops were a requirement of cruise resumption. But means a lot of hard work onboard to make up for it.

“Since the cruise is now the destination, we definitely have to provide a memorable experience. Now that no one can travel abroad, we came up with the concept of bringing the world to passengers, with sailings featuring Korean and Thai cultural experiences and activities.

“We've also been active in developing new guest segments like Muslim and vegan passengers. World Dream is the first Halal-certified ship in Asia-Pacific and we've added prayer rooms and Qurans.”

Nonetheless, Mr Goh is excited about Dream extending its cruising to include onshore destinations.

Above: passengers on World Dream.

“We really anticipate the day we can call to other ports. We are confident of the outlook as many countries are ramping up their vaccination programs.

And in both Taiwan and Singapore where we’ve been operating for five months, the COVID situation is very much under control,” he said.

“We’ll continue to lobby by talking to regional authorities. The most important aspect is inter-country agreements: both countries involved must have a consensus on safety measures.”

While other lines are maintaining a mandatory vaccine-only cruise policy, currently Mr Goh doesn't intend to follow suit.

“There are no plans at the moment but we will definitely be reviewing that. Moving forward, I do see vaccine passports becoming the trend for any kind of international travel,” he said.

When all is said and done, Mr Goh is feeling positive about the future of the industry.

“We are very optimistic about the cruise business, especially with our successful Singapore and Taiwan sailings without a single COVID case on board,” he said.

“We will continue to expand the deployment of cruises to nowhere in Singapore till the end of the year and beyond, and are exploring possibilities for re-deploying World Dream. Progress on Global Dream is going on very well and we are looking at debuting the ship in 2022.”

If he has anything to do with it, it won’t be long until we have Dream Cruises back in local waters.

“Sixty per cent of our fleet has already resumed operations and we’ll continue to work with any countries that allow us to resume sailings.” cruisepassenger.com.au

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REVIEW: WORLD DREAM

W A WORLD AWAY World Dream’s Singapore cruises have become a beacon of hope since the first departure in November 2020. Rebecca Rachel Wong rediscovers the joys of cruising – even with restrictions.

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hen Dream Cruises revealed its plans to commence sailings in Asia, months after the pandemic shut down global cruise operations, it was welcome news for cruisers itching to get back on the water.

The premium Asian brand, which was also sailing in Australia, started voyages with Explorer Dream in Taiwan and World Dream in Singapore. And the world watched with bated breath.

Dream has now been sailing since July 2020 in Taiwan and November 2020 in Singapore.

Earlier this year, the line celebrated a massive milestone – 100 days of safe sailing. Now, it has extended its homeport deployment in Singapore until June 2021.

The pilot program has proved that demand is healthy; since November, the line has carried more than 100,000 guests.

So, what’s the cruising experience like now?

To avoid crowds, passengers are given a time to report for registration before embarkation. The process includes filling in an online health declaration, registration, temperature checks, swabbing and waiting for test results.

World Dream uses the Rapid Antigen test, which means you get your test results on the same day you board.

When you board, the line is on top of health and safety protocols. You’ll be given a small electronic pod at check-in to help with contact tracing, wear masks in public areas and have your temperature screened everywhere you go. Dream also filters fresh air throughout the cabins and public areas.

To date, no confirmed COVID-19 cases have been reported on board either World Dream or Explorer Dream and were the first cruise line to trial their health protocols – a testament to the success of their measures.

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SHIP REVIEW: REVIEW: WORLD WORLD DREAM DREAM

With the easing of COVID-19 restrictions in Singapore this year, Dream has increased the number of guests per dining table from five to eight. The main pool capacity has increased as well, allowing more guests to relax outdoors.

Live performances are now permitted in selected indoor lounges and roving singers and musicians add to the festive ambiance.

The line has also launched themed cruises such as Korean and Thaistyle seacations. Designed to sate the wanderlust of travellers, these sailings feature traditional and pop-culture experiences from both countries.

On Korean-themed sailings, guests enjoy hanbok fashion shows, Joseon-era outdoor games, Korean movies at World Dream’s Cinema at Sea and K-beauty workshops.

On Thai-themed cruises, expect heartpumping activities such as Muay Thai lessons or water gun tag in celebration of Songkran (Thai New Year). Or indulge in a massage with tropical Thai products at Crystal Life Spa. Dream also plans to introduce Japanesethemed voyages in June, July and August, as well as Nordic White Christmas cruises in the holiday season, complete with yuletide programmes, festive décor and traditional festive dishes.

Clockwise from left: passengers in the Genting Club; Dream Dining Room; Crystal Life Spa; World Dream at sea.

Come evening, guests are occupied by shows at World Dream’s theatre.

Its signature show, Faith, is a fusion of theatrical performance, including ballet dancers, acrobats, a trampoline act and a comedy routine. Another show worth catching is Vision by renowned European illusionist Vincent Vignaud, featuring sleight-of-hand and magic tricks.

Shows are capped at 250 passengers per seating, with sanitisation of the theatre done after each performance.

The cruise timetable is filled with activities for all ages: craft workshops, dance and fitness classes, wellness talks, Nintendo game sessions and familyfriendly movies at the Zouk Beach Club.

I also had good fun at the waterslide park, rock-climbing wall and ESC Experience Lab which is packed with VR games.

Waiting for me in my suite was a plate of pastries, chocolate-covered strawberries and a complimentary minibar.”

I loved my stay at the Palace − Dream’s VIP ship-within-a-ship concept. Waiting for me in my suite was a plate of pastries, chocolate-covered strawberries and a complimentary minibar which was restocked every evening.

My Palace suite also allowed exclusive access to facilities such as the private pool and spa, which were luxurious and gloriously empty most times of the day.

Suite guests are entitled to 24-hour dedicated butler service, and my butler Clarence was an absolute godsend. He was proactive in making dinner and show bookings on my behalf, and even found a seamstress to mend a tear in my dress.

Dining at the exclusive specialty restaurants was a delight as well. The Palace restaurant has excellent service and the food is consistently wellexecuted – especially the cream pasta with truffle oil and the char kway teow.

But the highlight of my gastronomic experience was Umi Uma Teppanyaki – the chef’s knife-twirling prowess had me transfixed.

All in all, my onboard experience was – no pun intended− a dream. cruisepassenger.com.au

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30/3/21 3:54 pm

RUNNING HEAD CRUISE NEWS

WHY LUXURY IS SUCH A HIT Increasingly, travellers are opting to book top-of-the-line voyages on boutique ships. Is luxury the future of cruising?

Luxury line Regent Seven Seas Cruises believes the extra personal space on its vessels is attracting new passengers, as they report record bookings.

“The luxury cruise market continues to be strong right now and travellers are ready to book,” Regent’s senior vice president for the Asia Pacific region, Steve Odell, told Cruise Passenger.

“We know this through both anecdotal evidence from our day-to-day conversations with guests, and through our recent record booking days for our 2023 World Cruise and 2022-2023 Voyage Collection launches – which achieved the largest booking day in our 28-year history.

“Reservations surpassed our previous booking day record, set in April 2018 with the launch of Seven Seas Splendor’s inaugural season, by nearly 40 per cent.”

The strong performance confirms Cruise Passenger’s readership surveys that show a significant move towards luxury ships that carry fewer than 1,000 passengers; the post-COVID cruiser is looking for the security of space, as social distancing could be with us for some time yet.

“When sailing returns, we believe that a major differentiator in luxury cruising will be personal space and all the associated benefits and securities that come with it,” said Mr Odell.

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A Cunard bellboy in the iconic uniform.

“We firmly believe that Regent is already the best positioned cruise line to satisfy guest requirements in this arena and, that is why we have launched Unrivalled Space at Sea. The campaign reinforces all of our known and loved brand differentiators, such as personalised service, exquisite cuisine, immersive exploration and onboard experiences, highlighting how they are all enhanced through the abundance of personal space found on board The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet.

“With no more than 750 guests, our perfectly-sized ships offer one of the highest space-to-guest ratios in the industry. This means that guests won’t find themselves in crowds or needing to wait in line at any time in our expansive social areas.”

Regent has decided all crew will need to be vaccinated, but has yet to rule on whether guests will too.

Mr Odell says the upper end of the cruise market is showing the most resilience and responding to upgrade offers to give themselves more space.

“We recently launched Upgrade Your Horizon, which includes a two-category suite upgrade, up to a Penthouse Suite, on applicable voyages (excluding World Cruises and Grand Voyages),” he said.

“The offer provides guests with incredible value when you consider the other luxuries already included.”

Perhaps the line’s most exciting event in the Asia Pacific region is a visit from Seven Seas Explorer.

“We are very excited that Seven Seas Explorer will be sailing Australia, New Zealand and Asia later in the year.

We’ve had a great response from guests and cannot wait to show her off,” said Mr Odell.

She’ll be in local waters from December 2, 2021, to January 19, 2022, offering Close to Home sailings.

With new ship Seven Seas Splendor already on the water, the line is expecting to debut another similarly luxury ship in 2023. Explorer was dubbed “The most luxurious ship ever built” and Splendor is known as “Luxury perfected” – so we can’t wait to hear the phrase they use to describe this latest vessel.

cruisepassenger.com.au

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30/3/21 2:32 pm

RUNNING HEAD CRUISE NEWS

WHY CRUISE PRICES ARE LIKELY TO RISE Growing demand and loan repayments are set to increase cruise fares.

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ith amazing results from sales campaigns – Oceania Cruises' collection of exotic itineraries for winter 2022-2023 resulted in a record for the most bookings taken in a single day in the company’s 18-year history – lines are under pressure from their bankers, who lent them billions during the pandemic, to recoup their losses as fast as possible.

One American travel trade site reported: “Wall Street is not happy. If cruises are flying off the shelves, the message from big investors has been to raise prices.

If inventory is selling too quickly… the companies are leaving too much money on the table.”

Cruise Passenger asked Australian offices if they were predicting price increases in the coming months.

One told us off the record that price rises of 10 per cent were being factored in as early as April, though with special deals and upgrades they would be hard to detect.

Others declined to answer.

The strong demand for cruise in 2022 – some lines have already sold as much as 40 per cent of their cabins – means many are reporting record bookings. Longer, more lucrative voyages such as round-the-world itineraries are among the hottest tickets.

But according to the US trade site, the reports mean investors and bankers are restive and keen to see the lines start repaying their loans.

Alongside Oceania, other lines are reporting strong bookings: Carnival Cruises described demand as “solid” after making US$10.2 billion losses in 2020; Royal Caribbean maintains bookings are up 30 per cent, following reports of losses equalling US$5.8 billion last year (in stark contrast to the reported profit of $1.9 billion the year before); Norwegian Cruise Line is also reporting a marked increase in demand, after its losses amounted to $758 million last year.

Grand voyages of up to 143 days are strong sellers across all lines.

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“This is the first year in our history that we’ve had two years of world cruise departures to sell,” said US agency Cruise Specialists. “Two cruise lines sold out on their opening day for their 2023 programs and a third sold out last week. So, already one-third of the 2023 world cruise departures are sold out.”

Base-level fares for such itineraries are $65,000, and cruisers are upgrading to suites and all-inclusive options.

Small price rises seem reasonable given the enormity of the problem faced by some big-ship lines, but many are also adding value.

Luxury line Regent Seven Seas Cruises, for instance, has been upgrading guests who book early, offering the chance to enhance and extend their luxury holiday by up to six nights on land in a range of destinations across the world. A win for cruisers as well as bankers.

Is your FCC about to expire?

Future Cruise Credits (FCCs) are worth hundreds of millions of dollars to cash-strapped cruise lines. In thousands of cases – where lines offered 125 per cent of the value of cancelled cruises rather than offer a refund – they are worth more than the original price of the cruise.

For cruise operators, it’s a massive problem: FCCs are a liability the lines must honour before they can start earning profits again. If you have a FCC, it's important to keep an eye on the expiry date. Many need to be booked before the end of 2021, but without a cruise start, cruisers are finding it hard to decide what to book. For a full list of various lines' planned resumption dates, see cruisepassenger.com.au.

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30/3/21 2:33 pm

RUNNING HEAD CRUISE NEWS

A LOOK INTO THE VISTA Oceania Cruises has revealed plans for the new Vista, which will be the seventh vessel for its fleet. The 1,200-guest ship will the first of Oceania’s Allura-class and will set sail in 2023, followed by a sister ship in 2025. Vista will feature nine culinary experiences, luxurious signature public spaces, spacious suites and staterooms, and personalised service with two staff members for every three guests. In true Oceania style, Vista will have the line’s trademark

Finest Cuisine at Sea as well as unique firsts, yet to be revealed, in the realm of dining at sea. Some of the interiors include glamorous public spaces such as The Grand Dining Room, which soars almost two decks in height and pays homage to early 20th-century Paris, with its contemporary interpretation of Belle Époque. Further details will be revealed in May, with her inaugural voyages opening for sale in September.

Introducing Coral Geographer

CASHING IN ON OLD SHIPS

Australian-based adventure line Coral Expeditions's new ship, Coral Geographer started Australian voyages in March. Tailor made for expedition cruises to remote destinations in Asia and Oceania, she's designed for daily shore expeditions, lectures and briefings, as well as a high standard of comfort. Coral Geographer was ordered in June 2019 as part of an ongoing fleet expansion program, and was built at Vard Vung Tau, in Vietnam. Vard also delivered Coral Adventurer, the first of the exploration cruise ships for Coral Expeditions, three months prior.

It’s the sad consequence of the pandemic on the cruise industry: cruise ships sent to breaker yards and stripped of their glory.

British line Cruise & Maritime Voyages, which once sailed Australian waters, was a casualty of the pandemic, ceasing operations in the middle of last year. But some made millions from this destruction of once-proud ships. Marios Iliopoulos, owner of Greek ferry company Seajets, is reportedly one of those doing well from the trade.

Mr Iliopoulos bought two former CMV cruise ships at auction in the UK – both of which seem to be destined for the the world’s biggest ship breaking scrapyard at Alang, India. Columbus – better known to Australians as Pacific Pearl, which sailed hundreds of journeys for P&O Australia – was bought for US$5.3m, and Magellan for US$3.4m. It's believed he sold both for scrap for more than double what he paid for them.

Mr Iliopoulos is still holding the four ships he bought privately from Carnival Corp earlier in the cruise pause. cruisepassenger.com.au

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30/3/21 2:34 pm

CRUISE NEWS

Why Australian cruising should start now Words Joel Katz

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ith more than $1 billion being spent on muchneeded support for Australia’s tourism industry, it’s important to remember the full breadth of the travel economy and the huge part played by cruise tourism.

The support initiatives announced in Canberra recently are a step forward for many communities, but they fail to provide lasting benefit while big sectors like cruising have no agreed course towards revival.

For cruise passengers, the ongoing cruise suspension in Australia and New Zealand means yet further uncertainty. And for communities around our region, it means billions of dollars are being lost while they remain cut off from the cruise economy.

Despite this, cruise lines have achieved an enormous amount in the past year and the health measures they have developed in response to COVID-19 are among the most comprehensive of any industry in the world.

Created with the help of leading medical experts internationally, they are designed to uphold the safety of guests, crew and communities as the industry’s highest priority. Included are commitments like 100 per cent testing of passengers and crew prior to embarkation, as well as extensive measures covering crew quarantine, distancing, sanitisation, health monitoring and response procedures. They form a global CLIA policy covering every ocean-going member cruise line wherever they operate in the world.

With these extensive new health protocols in place – and given low levels of COVID-19 in Australasia – the cruise industry has outlined plans for a carefully controlled and phased reintroduction of domestic cruising in this region.

Initially this would involve restricted domestic cruises within parts of Australia or New Zealand for local residents only. In time, this could be expanded to include a trans-Tasman bubble.

Such domestic models have been operating successfully in other countries, including Taiwan and Singapore, since the latter part of last year.

Cruising is worth more than $5 billion a year to local economies in Australia and New Zealand and it supports more than 25,000 jobs.

Now is the time for governments to allow cruising’s revival. With a revival in cruise tourism, we can help reignite local economies in destinations right around our coasts. Visit cruising.org.au to find out more.

Joel Katz is managing director Australasia and Asia Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA).

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Who’s asking for mandatory vaccinations Majority of cruise lines move to make the jab compulsory for passengers.

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everal lnes have already made new itineraries available only to passengers who have had vaccines against COVID-19 – a sign that it is likely most will insist on mandatory jabs.

Princess Cruises, Royal Caribbean and Celebrity Cruises have announced vaccinated-only sailings in the US and Bahamas, while Crystal Cruises, Virgin Cruises and Saga Cruises in the UK have said they will sail all-vaccine cruises. The exception to these rulings, of course, is passengers with a medical exemption.

The head of the Federal Maritime Commission, Louise Sola, said the American government should restart cruising for vaccinated passengers only.

Australian cruise lines have yet to decide on whether or not to make vaccines a must before booking a cruise, as they watch the roll-out and reaction of the public.

Several told Cruise Passenger they are concerned about families with young children or young women, who many polls indicate are the most hesitant about getting the jab.

Princess Cruises announced a series of short breaks and week-long cruises aboard Regal Princess and Sky Princess sailing from the UK this summer. Regal Princess will offer 14 itineraries in July to September, while Sky Princess will sail eight.

A statement said the advanced progress of the UK vaccination programme meant it was feasible to insist on vaccinated guests only.

Royal Caribbean plans to start cruising in the Bahamas on June 12, and is reopening its private island Perfect Day at CocoCay, while Celebrity Cruises says it will launch journeys from St Maarten with seven-day sailings.

Sailing the Bahamas allows the lines to bypass the US Centre for Disease Control regulations, which called for trial cruises and ship protocol testing before a sailing start.

cruisepassenger.com.au

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30/3/21 4:48 pm

CRUISE NEWS

DON’T MISS THE BOAT While passengers under the age of 18 can sail as long as they have negative PCR test results, the crew and other passengers must be vaccinated.

“The vaccines are clearly a game-changer for all of us. And with the number of vaccinations and the impact growing rapidly, we believe starting with cruises for vaccinated adult guests and crew is the right choice,” said Royal Caribbean’s CEO, Michael Bayley. He cited the Singapore sailings of the line’s Quantum of the Seas as proving sailing was now safe enough to resume “Adventure of the Seas will make the initial sailings as she carries 3,800 passengers – small by the standards of Royal’s newer, bigger vessels.”

Above: the theatre on World Dream is disinfected.

Below: masked performers on Quantum of the Seas.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE $30 Take out a subscription to Cruise Passenger, the best independent source of news and reviews in Australasia, and save more than $30 on the cover price.

Plus, as cruise returns, don’t miss out on which line is doing what – sign up for Cruise Passenger online and make sure you get the best deals aboard the finest ships.

You’ll receive our weekly newsletter packed with deals and itineraries for you to choose from.

SEE CRUISEPASSENGER.COM.AU/ MAGAZINE

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30/3/21 2:39 pm

CRUISE NEWS

THE HUMAN COST OF EVERY CANCELLED CRUISE Australia’s cruise ban means the industry is suffering from a lost $3 million a day.

From the providores to the shore excursion leaders, Louise Goldsbury writes about the people who need cruise.

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ehind every cancelled cruise lies a community that missed the chance to welcome a shipload of excited visitors. It’s a tour operator who has no bookings, a shop owner who made no sales, a driver without passengers, a port worker with no job. In the cities, it’s a departure port where pre-cruise hotels, pubs and restaurants had to let half their staff go.

Across the country it’s a local winemaker who survived on cruise ship orders, a heartbroken farmer whose crop of fresh produce goes to waste, and the flow-on effect to his suppliers and wholesalers and their families.

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Carnival Cruses and P&O Cruises recently extended their cruise pause after the announcement from the Department of Health about the extension of the ban on international cruise ships, from March 17 to June 17. But it’s not just cancelled cruise dates and hundreds of shattered holiday dreams. There’s a very human toll behind those cancellation announcements.

Wayne and Julie Cox run a small farm at Coominya, about an hour’s drive from Brisbane, called Wivenhoe Hydroponics, which grew lettuce and Asian vegetables for cruise ships until the cruise ban wiped out their livelihood overnight. Rubbing salt in the wound, the ocean-loving

couple, who have taken several P&O cruises, had planned to retire this year and celebrate Mrs Cox’s 60th birthday on a cruise to New Zealand.

“I don’t know where to go from here,” said Mr Cox. “We’ve lost our business, it’s absolutely devastating. I was very depressed for months. I couldn’t do anything, and I’m used to always doing something, always working. It took a long time to get over it and that depressing feeling still lingers a bit. I’ve just got to take every week as it comes. I’ll probably have to keep working for a few more years now.”

cruisepassenger.com.au

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30/3/21 3:43 pm

CRUISE NEWS

Left: empty cruise ships docked.

Clockwise from right: Mr Mason hosting an onboard event; leading a crowd; with his girlfriend; posing with Carnival guests.

Unable to plan for the future when there is no guaranteed return date for cruising, Mr Cox is frustrated by the “guessing games” and lack of government support.

“I don’t know why they don’t just allow cruising in Queensland for Queenslanders – even a three-day cruise. We’ve been on lots of cruises and we’ve never been sick."

Cruise ship crew and entertainers have also had their dream jobs smashed by the

suspension of cruising. Carnival Cruise Line cruise director Lee Mason recently reached the 12-month milestone since he “left my ship”, as he describes it.

“Honestly, being out of work has been a real rollercoaster. My position onboard is incredibly social and active; morning, noon and night, it’s go go go! I am constantly interacting with people and feeding off their excitement and energy.

“Cut to life on land, not seeing anyone, having to abide by all of the social restrictions that we’ve been under during this crazy year – it’s been an incredibly difficult transition both mentally and emotionally,” Mr Mason said.

“It took a while for it to sink in, to accept that I wasn’t going back to work.

It’s been a very surreal experience for us all. I definitely thought I would be back at work by now. I understand why I’m not, though it doesn’t make it any easier.”

Mr Mason, 34, said it’s not easy to explain the deep impact on the crew – and not just financially. “When you work at sea, you leave behind your neighbours, your childhood friends and community. Because you spend more time at sea than at home, you build a new life and family of people on board. When you come home, you’re a relative stranger to many.”

When the crew were repatriated to their home countries, it split up the “shipboard family” as well as his relationship.

“I met my girlfriend onboard, and despite us both being from the same country, social restrictions have stopped us from seeing each other, which isn’t the best foundation for romance,” he said.

Mr Mason has not worked for the past year and has moved back in with his parents, but other crew members have been forced to seek alternative employment to survive.

“Many work multiple jobs to pay mortgages and to support families. It’s not been a great time,” he said, acknowledging the “ripple effect” on so many other people.

“People you wouldn’t immediately consider: taxi services bringing people to and from the cruise terminal, tram and rail ticket sales, out-of-town tourists taking city tours, filling buskers’ guitar cases, climbing the Harbour Bridge. It’s endless.

We need to be cruising again!”

By Cruise Passenger’s calculations, based on 2019 figures, each day without a cruise costs the Australian community $3,303,703.

We’ve lost our business, it’s absolutely devastating. I was very depressed for months.”

Joel Katz, Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) managing director Australasia, says these losses would be reversed by the huge business generated by cruise ship visits. The obvious and easy answer is to restart domestic cruises.

“We envisage they will be the first to resume under a carefully controlled and phased resumption of cruising, supported by extensive new health protocols,” Mr Katz said. “With these measures adopted globally, the cruise industry is continuing to work with Australian governments to open a pathway towards resumption so that communities around the country can again benefit from the $5 billion-a-year contribution of cruise tourism.”

As Mr Mason says: “I'm confident we'll return. I remain hopeful, and staying connected to my ship family really helps.

We're supporting each other the best we can. And we know we'll be back.”

cruisepassenger.com.au

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30/3/21 3:44 pm

CRUISE NEWS: UP NEXT

The yearbook The next 24 months are bumper years for launches of new ships. Here’s what’s hot, new, and coming up from our favourite lines.

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here is much anticipation around the arrival of new ships. While the pandemic has pushed back the arrival of some ships, Royal Caribbean’s Odyssey of the Seas launched earlier this year, to much fanfare, with sailings from Israel to the Mediterranean.

We’re also likely to see several new ships launching in the later half of 2021 and the beginning of 2022. There is plenty to look forward to with big liners, new luxury vessels and expedition ships just on the horizon.

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Cruise Celebrity Cruises / Celebrity Apex Passengers: 2,900 Launch date: June 2021 The second ship from Celebrity Cruises’ game-changing Edge-class, Apex, like her sister ship will feature some of the world-class features we saw on Edge. Some of the features include the Magic Carpet, a movable deck cantilevered off the side of the ship that moves between Decks 2 and 16 and transforms into a viewing platform, bar, restaurant and embarkation area. Other onboard highlights are the Infinite Veranda, a cabin designed to blend indoors and outdoors using bi-fold doors, and the Resort Deck, which will have a large pool flanked by sculptural trees and two martiniglass Jacuzzis.

Above: a rendering of Celebrity Apex.

Right: Richard Branson.

Holland America Line / Rotterdam Passengers: 2,650 Launch date: July 30, 2021 The third ship from HAL’s Pinnacleclass, Rotterdam will feature the line’s signature Music Walk, which includes B.B. King’s Blues Club, Lincoln Center Stage and Billboard Onboard. There will also be a World Stage, a 360-degree entertainment venue that blends music and dance.

French brassiere Sel de Mer will also make an appearance, alongside Blend, a wine-mixing venue.

Rotterdam was scheduled to debut in May 2021 but has been delayed until July.

cruisepassenger.com.au

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30/3/21 2:44 pm

CRUISE NEWS: UP NEXT

Virgin Voyages / Valiant Lady

MSC Cruises / MSC Virtuosa

Passengers 2,860 Launch date: November 14, 2021 Valiant Lady will be the second of three identical ships to debut for Sir Richard Branson’s Virgin cruise brand. The design will be close to that of her sister Scarlet Lady, and voyages will be restricted to cruisers 18 years of age and older. Based in Barcelona, she will offer Mediterranean itineraries, all with a Friday night stay in Ibiza. Other ports of calls include Monte Carlo, Olbia, Cagliari and Gibraltar.

Passengers: 4,900 Launch date: First half 2021 MSC Virtuosa will have the capacity for 6,300 passengers. Onboard, she’ll have a range of entertainment including fine-art museums and a custom Ciruqe du Soleil show.

Vessels in Meraviglia Plus-class will have a 111-metre-long promenade with restaurants, bars and shops, covered by a “digital sky” LED screen showing events and vistas around-the-clock. Additional facilities include travel group cluster cabins, a double-decker indoor amusement park, doublestorey entertainment space and lounge, and an outdoor water park.

Princess / Discovery Princess Passengers: 3,560 Launch date: First half 2022 Discovery Princess, the sixth Royal-class ship to be constructed, has been delayed until spring in the Northern Hemisphere in 2022. She’s a native MedallionClass, and will include other staples of the class, such as the three-deck-high Piazza atrium, Movies Under The Stars and balconies in 80 per cent of the cabins, as well as a number of features that are new to the line.

Norwegian Cruise Line / Unnamed Passengers: 3,300 Launch date: 2022 The new NCL ship will be the first of the Leonardo-class. Leonardo ships will be bigger than the Jewel-class ships but smaller than the line’s popular Breakaway and BreakawayPlus ships. The ships will cost around US$850 million to build. No details of the design or onboard features have been released yet.

From top: Carnival Celebration; MSC Virtuosa; Discovery Princess.

Carnival Cruise Line / Carnival Celebration Passenger: 5,200 Launch date: November 2022 Carnival Celebration will be the second of two Excel-class 5,200 passenger vessels – 6,600 at full capacity – for Carnival Cruise Line. Her launch, with a two-week transatlantic cruise, will coincide with the line’s 50th birthday celebrations. Celebration will be a near-twin to Mardi Gras which is set to debut in the next few months.

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30/3/21 2:44 pm

RIVER NEWS

Dutch bulbfields What a blooming marvellous way to welcome spring – albeit spring 2022 due to current restrictions. Feast your eyes on mesmerising displays of millions of tulips, hyacinths and daffodils as they burst into colourful life. The hub of this vivid spectacle is Holland’s Keukenhof Gardens, a must-see on springtime cruises on the waterways of the Low Countries. Crystal River Cruises’ seven-night voyage combines an obligatory stop here with the UNESCOprotected windmills at Kinderdijk and the modern city of Rotterdam, plus cheese tastings, bike tours and waffles.

Cycle through Assam Little compares with the thrill of cycling under the shadow of the Himalayas on a biking/boating cruise along India’s Brahmaputra River through the state of Assam. Ride dusty tracks into villages, through tea plantations and across paddy fields – unforgettable highlights of this Grasshopper Adventures trip. It begins in Jorhat, where guests join the 30

The rivers are beckoning From the tea plantations of India to Oktoberfest celebrations, here are 13 of the best river cruise itineraries for 2022 and beyond.

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30/3/21 2:54 pm

RIVER NEWS Clockwise from left: the windmills at Kinderdijk; Oktoberfest in Munich; Saint Basil’s Cathedral, in Moscow’s Red Square.

highlight of Tauck’s Rhine cruise, and passengers can make merry while enjoying reserved seats in one of the brewery tents. This Amsterdam to Basel voyage – with excursion to Munich – also travels through the Rhine Gorge, whose precipitous slopes are crowned with crusader-style castles, while Strasbourg’s medieval halftimbered houses ooze chocolate-box appeal.

To Russia with love The mystery and magnificence of St Petersburg and Moscow dominate this Riviera Travel cruise with echoes of Russia’s imperial past contrasting with the iron fist of Communism. Between them lie waterways, rivers and lakes that open up the country’s hinterland, where towns and cities such as Uglich and Yaroslavl have their own historic claims to fame. But the undoubted stars are St Petersburg’s grandiose palaces and Hermitage Museum, along with Moscow’s Red Square, dominated by the Kremlin and candy-coloured swirls of St Basil’s Cathedral.

Discover Siberian wilderness

In spring, Holland’s Keukenhof Gardens come to life with millions of tulips, hyacinths and daffodils.”

Russia’s Yenisei River carries ultimate bragging rights for river cruisers. The little-known waterway through Siberia is the fifth-longest in the world and uncovers a region of forest tundra and Arctic desert, Cossack tribes and remote settlements. Russian river cruise company Vodohod claims to be the only line to specialise in Yenisei sailings. Stops include the village of Bakhta, which can

Charaidew riverboat to cruise to Guwahati, and along the way are temple visits, cultural displays and the chance to spot tigers and rare one-horned rhinos at wildlife reserves.

Cruises to spot Nessie Monsters, craggy stone castles and bloodthirsty battles loom large on six-night sailings through the Scottish Highlands with European Waterways. Groups of up to 12 can charter barges to take them in tartan-clad comfort along the Caledonian Canal to Loch Ness, cosseted by the resident crew. En route, they can follow in the footsteps of Bonnie Prince Charlie, famously defeated by English troops at Culloden, and relive the spirit of Shakespeare’s tragic hero Macbeth, forever linked to Cawdor Castle.

Oktoberfest on the Rhine Munich’s rumbustious Oktoberfest celebrations – flowing beers, Bavarian feasts and brass bands – are a

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RIVER NEWS only be reached by boat or helicopter, and the town of Igarka, built on permafrost and bathed in the midnight sun each summer. Yermakovo is the location of the Death Road unfinished railway, which claimed the lives of 300,000 gulag prisoners under Stalin.

Danube passion play The Bavarian town of Oberammergau is famed for its Passion Play, usually staged every decade in a tradition dating from 1633, when residents vowed to tell the story of Christ’s death and resurrection if God spared them the worst of the Black Death ravaging Europe. Last summer’s 42nd re-enactment fell victim to the modern plague of COVID-19, but it has been rearranged for 2022. It will run from May to October, with performances featured by Viking on selected Danube sailings.

landscape, with Cambodia’s Angkor Wat at Siem Reap, renowned as one of the world’s key archaeological sites.

Meanwhile, the Killing Fields memorial in Phnom Penh is a reminder of the country’s more recent tumultuous past.

Cruise control to Bordeaux

Wild times in Africa

Uniworld’s self-drive options for cruises along France’s rivers are just the ticket for anyone wanting to avoid crowds and stay in their own bubble. Prices include parking in a Uniworld-approved facility and the company will advise on cross-Channel options, driving routes and overnight stopping points to Avignon or Lyon for Rhone sailings and Bordeaux.

Giraffes, lions and elephants are some of the stars of this floating safari cruise on the Zambezi Queen along Africa’s Chobe River, through the Chobe National Park in Botswana, offered by Fred Holidays River Cruises. Days start with early-morning game drives followed by small boat excursions enabling passengers to get even closer to the animals, while one of the natural wonders of this trip are the spectacular Victoria Falls, where guests can sail away on a sundowner cruise.

Vietnam culture call Legend has it that the 1,500 limestone karsts scattered like precious gems across Halong Bay evolved from emeralds that fell from the mouths of raging dragons as they battled invaders. Pandaw sailings along Vietnam’s “Red River” combine the ethereal surroundings of this Unesco-protected seascape with the French accented ambience of Hanoi and lush inland environs of paddy fields, pagodas and tribal settlements.

Cruise to the Black Sea

Rural traditions Mekong Cruising the Mekong through Vietnam and Cambodia resonates with French influences of colonial rule and, combined with Khmer and Angkor cultures, have left a legacy of architectural treasures. Ancient temples dot the

Above: Capybaras on the banks of the Amazon.

Below: Tonle Pandaw on the Mekong.

Frustrated travellers can make up for lost time by ticking off seven countries on a 14-night Arena Travel cruise aboard its newest vessel, MS Arena, along the Danube River to the Black Sea. From Germany, it travels through Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia, Bulgaria and Romania, taking in stately capitals, grand palaces, Baroque castles, the rolling hills of Wachau Valley and the majestic Iron Gate Gorge that carves a path through the Carpathian Mountains.

Amazon adventures Pink river dolphins, sleepy sloths and bright-billed toucans are Amazonian residents that can be spotted along the Peruvian stretch of this South American artery.

This section of the Amazon is only navigable by smaller boats, including the 28-passenger Amatista Amazon. which explores tributaries and black-water lakes.

Excursions led by naturalists take small skiffs deep into the jungle on night-time forays, while stops at riverside villages bring interactions with indigenous families and a visit to the local shaman.

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LuxeAdventure INSIDE

34 The Kimberley is calling as cruise lines look to restart.

Indigenous Australians on Jar Island in the Kimberley.

38 Special Report: Ponant and Hurtigruten.

46 Expedition leaders on their favourite destinations.

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LUXURY ADVENTURE

Kimberley calling Australia’s Kimberley coast has become a magnet for luxury adventure cruise lines looking to restart their operations. Peter Lynch reports.

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he Kimberley has become the focal point for the world’s luxury expedition fleets – a burgeoning part of the cruise industry because it has the key elements attracting well-heeled cruisers: small ships, adventure and comfort.

Six lines are currently vying for a place in the Kimberley fleet for 2021 and both federal and local governments have been receiving delegations seeking an international vessel start date.

However, a recent ruling by the Northern Territory government that ships can only carry 100 people, including crew, and only two vessels can be in territorial waters at one time, put a dampener on expectations. The move makes sailing Northern Territory waters impossible from an economic standpoint.

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LUXURY ADVENTURE

The cruise industry has done a lot of work to make sure that cruising now is COVID-safe”

Coral Expeditions – the locally flagged and crewed fleet that has been sailing in Queensland, South Australia and Tasmania for months – is already sailing her two flagship vessels. Geographer and Adventurer are sailing Broome to Broome – bypassing Darwin, which was to have been the line’s turnaround port.

A Department of Health spokesperson confirmed to Cruise Passenger that talks are underway regarding the resumption of small-ship cruising and day or overnight cruising in the Kimberley.

“The Australian Government, including the Department of Health, is considering the parameters around any future resumption of cruise operations in Australia and is consulting with the Australian Health Protection Principal Committee (AHPPC), other national health

committees and the cruise industry during these considerations,” they said.

“Options being considered include a staged approach to cruise resumption which would take into account the Australian COVID-19 epidemiological situation and be consistent with broader relaxation of COVID-19 travel restrictions, both domestic and international. Day cruises and smaller domestic cruises on ships with fewer than 100 passenger berths are permitted under the current national cruise ship ban, subject to state and territory requirements and restrictions.”

Luxury expedition line Ponant, headed here by Australian cruise veteran Sarina Bratton, has two small ships ready to sail the Kimberley, and Australian line APT has small ship Caledonian Sky is ready to go now, with a 99-passenger capacity.

Scenic says it will bring the ultraluxury Scenic Eclipse to the Kimberley. The world’s first discovery yacht has created extraordinary buzz since her launch, and will add a new dimension to Australian luxury cruising.

Australian-owned expedition operator Aurora is planning to move a ship to Australian waters for the first time. From June, Greg Mortimer will lead a program of sailings in Australian and Antarctic waters.

Silversea, which is part of the Royal Caribbean group, has Silver Explorer rostered for Kimberley. Ponant’s Le Lapérouse, which can carry 160 passengers (though she was limited to 100 in a recent attempt to enter New Zealand) will also visit, along with Le Soléal, with capacity for another 240 passengers. The line released eight itineraries for Australia, demonstrating a new commitment to cruising Down Under.

Resumption is vital. The cruise industry delivers $5 billion of business to Australia and supports thousands of jobs.

CLIA Australasia’s MD Joel Katz told Cruise Passenger: “We’ve been reiterating the message that reinstating cruise is not about taking a risk or undoing the great work our countries have done managing

COVID-19. This is also about helping to get our travel agents, regional port communities, farmers and other food suppliers, hotels, tour operators and the broader tourism sector back on their feet.

Coral Expeditions kicking off its first South Australia itinerary, following successful cruises in Queensland and Tasmania, is encouraging news and demonstrates that there is a blueprint for the safe return of cruise offering local cruises for locals while international borders remain closed.”

APT group managing director Chris Hall said the group is ready to sail again.

“APT is working with the Western Australia, Northern Territory and Queensland governments, as well as key federal government departments, in preparation for cruising to recommence,” Mr Hall said.

“While our first domestic departures are still several months away, we know the situation will continue to evolve and we will continue to be guided by government regulations. The interest in cruising within Australian waters has been overwhelming and we look forward to welcoming our Australian-owned small ship, MS Caledonian Sky, back to Australian waters.”

Ponant, in turn, said: “For Australians eager to explore our own backyard, Ponant has announced the return of two of its modern fleet of small luxury expedition ships, Le Lapérouse and Le Soléal, to Australian waters in 2021 – an exciting new collection of eight immersive must-do itineraries... along Australia’s coastline.”

The minister for trade, Dan Tehan, sparked optimism with his encouraging remarks about the return of cruise ships to Australian waters.

“The cruise industry has done a lot of work to make sure that cruising now is COVID-safe. They’ve put protocols in place, so people should be confident to be able to go and book cruises,” Mr Tehan said.

“We’ve got so many wonderful places to see – whether you’re doing it as part of a cruise around our coastline, or going to visit the wonderful places across the nation.” cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS

THE WILD ONES Expedition cruising is an extraordinary way to travel, writes Teresa Ooi. 36

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he world is full of thrilling, off-thebeaten-path destinations, many of which can only be reached by expedition cruise ships. One of the finest examples of these is Antarctica, the frozen continent. Its unforgiving landscape – an ethereal landscape of ice and water – is an adventurer’s playground and a must-visit for cruise fanatics. Watch whales feeding, seal pups playing, penguins mating and albatrosses gliding, all between silhouettes of giant icebergs under the almost blinding midnight sun. In Antarctica, the elements rule.

Exploring this vast, white continent sounds extreme, but that’s exactly why thousands of curious minded visitors make the long trek there. Antarctica is a bucket-list destination waiting to be ticked off.

For many travellers who are explorers at heart, the world is full of must-see, must-do places on the list: the Falkland Islands, the outer reaches of Canada, Iceland, Greenland, the Arctic Circle – surely more than any one traveller could explore in a lifetime.

Some cruise lines, such as Hurtigruten, combine a journey to Antarctica with an exploration of Patagonia and the Chilean Fjords and a crossing of the famed Drake Passage where the Atlantic, Pacific and Southern Oceans converge – making this one of the choppiest waters in the world.

The itinerary on the line’s newest ship, Roald Amundsen, takes cruisers south along the Pacific coast of Chile to visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Iglesia San Francisco.

You then sail through the waters of Patagonia

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CRUISE NEWS

to one of the world’s most remote places, the province of Ultima Esperanza. Visit the isolated beauty of Puerto Eden and Puerto Natales, the gateway to epic Torres del Paine National Park, before you head for the icy south.

Other bucket-list expedition cruises include voyages to the islands in the South Atlantic Ocean to see the solar eclipse in the South Orkney Islands. You’ll have to get up very early in the morning and wear the special solar filters provided to protect your eyes, but this phenomenal occurrence is well worth the effort.

Nearby, the Falkland Islands and South Georgia are sparsely populated so the wildlife takes centre stage: expect vast colonies of black-browed albatrosses, five species of penguin, giant petrels and elephant seals.

Iceland and Greenland are also high on the list for expedition cruisers. Most cruise lines that visit these areas will take guests through these remote and pristine waters to visit the most isolated settlement in the

Large fjords, giant icebergs, hanging glaciers and vertical cliffs as far as the eye can see – all in splendid isolation.”

Clockwise from top: a ship prepares to cross Drake Passage; a penguin on the Falkland Islands; a seal at Yankee Harbour, Antarctica.

world, Ittoqqortoormit, which sits on a peninsula that is encased in ice for nine months of the year. You can meet the locals, of which there are only about 500, and visit the tiny church and museum.

In Greenland, you can visit the largest national park in the world. Only a limited number of expeditions are permitted to visit the park over its very short summer season, so you’ll enjoy large fjords, giant icebergs, hanging glaciers and vertical cliffs reaching as far as the eye can see – all in rugged, splendid isolation. cruisepassenger.com.au

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LUXURY EXPEDITION REPORT

PONANT Australian Cruising Special

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oin PONANT, world leader of luxury expeditions, on a unique concept of sea travel on board intimate modern luxury ships with a capacity of up to 132 staterooms and suites, offering curated itineraries and authentic experiences in remote places not accessible by larger ships. Enjoy thrilling Zodiac® rides along Australia’s Kimberley coast, sample and savour the exceptional seafood of South Australia’s Port Lincoln, immerse yourself in marine and wildlife encounters in Ningaloo Reef, or explore New Zealand’s rarely visited subantarctic islands.

On board the world’s youngest fleet of state-of-theart, environmentally friendly luxury ships, guests will experience a refined and personalised atmosphere throughout their voyage, including French-inspired cuisine, open bar, 24-hour room service, spa facilities, outdoor pool, and complimentary unlimited Wi-Fi. Adding to the ‘French touch’ on board, guests can indulge in various iconic luxury brands throughout their voyage such as Charles Heidsieck champagne, Ladurée macarons and Hermès bathroom amenities.

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Guests will experience a refined and personalised atmosphere throughout their voyage.”

All PONANT luxury expeditions include full service of some of the best expedition experts and destination specialists in the industry daily leading the way into insightful discoveries and exploration. From Zodiac® cruises to shore excursions and onboard lectures and presentations, experts share their passion and knowledge along the way with guests, offering genuine educational and immersive experiences in some of the most fascinating places on Earth.

For travellers keen to embark on a close-to-home adventure at sea, PONANT has announced the return of two of its modern ships, Le Lapérouse and Le Soléal, to Australian waters in 2021 for an exciting new collection of immersive ‘must-do’ voyages featuring Western Australia, South Australia, Tasmania, New South Wales, and Queensland coasts as well as New Zealand and the subantarctic islands of Australia and New Zealand. They have also recently launched their 2022 Kimberley Coast programme with an unprecedented 26 departures scheduled between March and September 2022.

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LUXURY EXPEDITION REPORT

SHIPS: AMENITIES

PONANT’S FLEET

LUXURY ONBOARD ACTIVITIES

PONANT’s modern fleet consists of small-sized luxury expedition ships, designed for expedition cruising. Nimble and with limited guest capacity, PONANT’s expedition ships are fitted with cutting-edge equipment to ensure both the safety of their guests and crew, as well as respect and preservation of the environments they visit, as part of PONANT’s zero-footprint philosophy.

Guests can relax at one of the outdoor or indoor open bars and lounges, take a swim in the outdoor pool, get pampered at the spa by Sothy’s™, or sit back and enjoy daily entertainment in the theatre. The PONANT Explorer series also feature the Blue Eye, a multi-sensory underwater lounge.

P O N A N T ’ S STAT E R O O M S & S U I T ES

ZODIAC OUTINGS & SHORE EXCURSIONS

PONANT’s small-capacity luxury ships boast 32 to 132 elegantly designed staterooms and spacious suites – 95 per cent with private balconies. Stylish and flexible staterooms and suites range from Deluxe & Prestige Staterooms (19 sqm + 4 sqm balcony) and Suites (27 sqm + 8 sqm balcony) to Owners Suite (45 sqm + 9 sqm private terrace), all with 24-hour complimentary room service, Hermès bathroom amenities, unlimited Wi-Fi and complimentary minibar.

PONANT’s fleet of Zodiacs® make landing ashore in remote destinations safe and easy. Led by experienced guides and destination specialists, Zodiac® and shore excursions allow you to reach remote and unique places such as venturing far into the majestic King George River in the Kimberley or exploring and observing the wildlife along New Zealand’s subantarctic islands.

GASTRONOMY EXPERIENCE

EXPERT EXPEDITION TEAM

Founded in France more than 30 years ago, PONANT naturally sets gastronomy high on the agenda. Delight in fresh products and ingredients, transformed into exquisite French-inspired dishes by PONANT’s talented onboard chefs and paired with world-renowned wines. Indulge in Ladurée macarons, taste Lenôtre’s selection of freshly baked bread and pastries or clink glasses of Charles Heidsieck champagne.

PONANT’s award-winning luxury expeditions are led by a team of experts including naturalists, historians and destination specialists who share their passion and knowledge with guests throughout their voyage, unlocking doors to the pristine areas they visit, with all expert-led excursions, Zodiac® cruises and lectures included.

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LUXURY EXPEDITION REPORT ITINERARIES

Australia/NZ and surrounds

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oin the world leader of luxury expedition, PONANT, for your choice of exceptional journeys exploring Australia and New Zealand’s breathtaking coastlines. Sail aboard one of PONANT’s small-capacity modern luxury ships alongside a team of expedition experts and destination specialists, and explore the remote Kimberley wilderness, indulge in Tasmania’s worldrenowned produce, embark on a true wildlife safari along New Zealand’s subantarctic islands, or (re)discover Queensland’s idyllic coral reefs.

With a maximum of just 132 staterooms on board, PONANT offers the unique combination of genuine expedition travel and elegant yet relaxed onboard luxury, in some of Australia and New Zealand’s most remote and fascinating places. The perfect combination for memorable discoveries of your own backyard!

Australia’s Iconic Kimberley - Northbound Set sail for the grandeur of the Kimberley and discover Australia’s most secret coastline. Behold billions-of-years-old landscapes and ancient Wandjina and Gwion Gwion rock art, reach epic waterfalls, and marvel at the spectacular tidal phenomena of Montgomery Reef.

The wild lands of the Kimberley are the promise of an exceptional adventure.

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Australia’s Iconic Kimberley - Southbound Our classic Kimberley Expedition heading south lets you explore untamed landscapes, immerse yourself in the Indigenous culture and history, and discover the unique wildlife of Australia’s most iconic coast. This expedition includes a visit to Wyndham for a Bungle Bungle scenic flight, an Ord River Tour or El Questro experience.

The perfect combination for memorable discoveries of your own backyard!”

Jewels of the West Coast Experience the striking beauty and remarkable wildlife of Australia’s west coast and discover some of the most spectacular underwater areas in Australia. Spot the iconic wild bottlenose dolphins in Monkey Mia and explore Ningaloo Reef, the largest fringing coral reef in Australia, and an idyllic location with turquoise water and abundant marine life.

Tasmania Circumnavigation Indulge in this complete Tasmanian experience filled with gastronomic delights, untouched nature, and fascinating history. Savour the lavish flavours of Tamar Valley’s award-winning wines and King Island’s world-renowned produce, and visit some of the most unique wildlife sanctuaries in the country.

Queensland’s Islands & Reefs Delve into the beauty that lies off Queensland’s stunning coastline on this exciting expedition.

Set sail for the Willis Islets in Coral Sea Territory, featuring exceptional atolls and marine life. Experience Hardy Reef with ample snorkelling and diving opportunities and stop in at Percy Island and Lady Musgrave Island, home to nesting turtles and seabirds.

Fiordland & the Snares Expedition Explore the best of New Zealand’s South Island from aweinspiring Milford and Dusky Sounds to the rare birdlife of Ulva Island and wildlife sanctuaries of the Snares, this exceptional nine-night expedition promises to reveal the best of New Zealand’s abundant and unique natural heritage.

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LUXURY EXPEDITION REPORT SAFETY

Health protocols

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o ensure the provision and maintenance of a COVIDsafe sanitary bubble, PONANT has continuously reinforced and adapted their health and safety policies, incorporating a complete range of technological, human, and equipment-based measures. Their ever-evolving 3-Shield Protocol has been designed to ensure safe onboard access conditions, and daily control and monitoring of their guests, equipment and ships.

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MANDATORY TESTING

Please note PONANT’s COVID-safe protocol continues to evolve according to the global sanitary context.

Before travelling, all guests and crew members are checked and subject to the COVID-safe access protocol. This includes a medical check in, health questionnaire, mandatory PCR test prior to travelling (if test results are positive boarding will be denied), a secondary health check and screening before boarding.

For more information visit au.ponant.com/sail-withconfidence.

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COVID-SAFE ZONE

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ONBOARD HOSPITAL

Boarding for all guests and crew members will be controlled to comply with the COVID-safe zone access protocol, which consists of a body temperature check and a disinfection tunnel for people, personal effects, and goods/ merchandise. Protection kits are provided at time of boarding.

Daily monitoring is carried out by the onboard doctor and nurse, with medical equipment available for quick diagnostics when in an isolated environment. Mobile laboratory terminals enable medical staff to test on site for disease. Testing and sampling is carried out regularly in high-risk areas and on high-risk surfaces.

PONANT’s onboard medical team is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

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ONBOARD MONITORING

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MONITORED EXCURSIONS

All onboard spaces throughout PONANT vessels are regularly cleaned and treated to ensure total disinfection. All staterooms have continuous air replenishment, with 100 per cent fresh air ventilation and no air recirculation. Ventilated air is renewed in all public areas at least five times per hour. Social distancing signage is displayed in public areas, and all crew wear mandatory masks or visors. In case of emergency, PONANT ensures five staterooms are available to provide an isolation zone.

Shore/land excursions only take place in regions that are COVIDsafe. Landing crafts are disinfected after each use and guests are required to comply with a range of health protection instructions during shore excursions and Zodiac® cruises, including social distancing, temperature checks and hands disinfection before returning onboard.

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LUXURY EXPEDITION REPORT

Hurtigruten The Hurtigruten experience

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hen you sail with Hurtigruten, you are on an expedition with likeminded adventurers. You won’t find waterslides, casinos or any sort of dress code. However, you will find a casual and relaxed atmosphere, great food and all the quality equipment you need to explore new destinations.

On all expedition cruises around the world, the ships are equipped with an Expedition Team – a dedicated group that will help you discover the best of each destination. They are your hosts onboard and ashore, and will provide lectures in subjects such as geography, history, wildlife and more. Hurtigruten operates in some of the world’s most pristine and vulnerable natural landscapes and it is a responsibility they take seriously. They also educate guests on how to reduce our environmental footprint, demonstrated by their innovative technology and their move to be the first major travel company to ban single-use plastic onboard all of their ships, restaurants and hotels.

The stunning scenery of the voyages is reflected in the rich and comfortable interior design of MS Roald Amundsen and MS Fridtjof Nansen. All cabins are outside, 50 per cent have private balconies, and aft suites feature private outdoor hot tubs with spectacular

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Onshore, step into nature to fully immerse with each destination, on walks, hikes, in boats or kayaks.”

views. Meanwhile, MS Fram is purpose built as a polar expedition vessel, equipped for the conditions. As an explorer you need an expedition base-camp that is comfortable and has all-oceans capabilities with safety, flexibility and environmental friendliness. These three vessels are just a few from the fleet of Hurtigruten ships.

The award-winning food on board is a journey in itself, with fresh, locally sourced produce and a wide selection of menus on all cruises, including vegan and vegetarian options. Menus are drawn from the line’s rich Norwegian and Nordic tradition, as well as international cuisine and local inspiration.

Onshore, step into nature to fully immerse yourself into each destination on walks, hikes, in boats or kayaks.

Hurtigruten takes you closer to wildlife than anyone else, with onboard experts who share their knowledge of the animal world. Hurtigruten wants to help your dreams come true and experience the extraordinary – be it the Midnight Sun or Northern Lights. They are the only travel company that offers a Northern Lights Promise. If the light show does not appear on your Northern Lights season voyage, the line will give you a six- or seven-day Classic Voyage, free of charge, so that your Hurtigruten experience will be one with zero regrets.

Embark with them on an adventure unlike any other.

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LUXURY EXPEDITION REPORT

SHIPS: AMENITIES

THE GREENEST EXPEDITION FLEET

R O A L D A M U N D S E N & F R I D TJ O F N A N S E N

With the world’s first hybrid powered ships in the fleet, Hurtigruten has turned the page to a new chapter in advanced and sustainable discovery. Explore the world in maximum comfort with maximum care for the environment.

These state-of-the-art ships have been designed for unforgettable expeditions, embodying the spirit of Norwegian polar heroes Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen. From the innovative hybrid engines that enable you to glide into pristine wilderness, to the elegant modern cabin furnishings, every detail is created with your adventure in mind.

THE EXPEDITION TEAM

SCIENCE CENTER

Expedition Teams offer more than a deep understanding and expertise of the areas you explore – they are also adventurers, who thrive in the wilderness. Hurtigruten has onboard experts in marine biology, arctic survival, oceanography, photography and more, to help make your journey an unforgettable experience.

The Science Center serves as the learning and social hub of your expedition, where the expert Expedition Team hosts lectures, leads amazing landings and answers all your questions during the journey.

This is also the hub for Science Citizen Projects, involving guests in programs for third-party organisations like the Norwegian Polar Institute project for registration of marine mammals in the Arctic, to improve understanding of habitat use and seasonal movement.

I N S I D E & O U T S I D E O B S E RVAT I O N

EXPLORE A WORLD OF FLAVOURS

MS Roald Amundsen and MS Fridtjof Nansen are the only cruise ships in the world that offer inside observation decks with windows that stretch all the way to the bow, offering spectacular views, no matter the conditions. When weather permits, the outside observation deck offers a panoramic viewpoint in the fresh air.

Enjoy superb dining from regionally-sourced produce, adding a delicious dimension to your travel. On the Original Coastal Voyages, the famed Norway’s Coastal Kitchen has long served fresh produce from local suppliers. Starting with the Arctic 2021 season, this concept will be added to the line’s expedition cruises worldwide.

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LUXURY EXPEDITION REPORT OUR ITINERARIES

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urtigruten gives you the opportunity to travel with meaning. Building on its explorer heritage dating back to 1893, Hurtigruten is the world’s leading expedition cruise company.

Today, 127 years later, the pioneering spirit has seen the line become a leader in Polar region explorations, and it is renowned for itineraries to Antarctica, Iceland, Greenland, the Northwest Passage and Svalbard.

Hurtigruten’s footprint includes Arctic Canada, Alaska, North America, the Caribbean and Central America, South America and Europe – sustainable expeditions from pole to pole.

Disko Bay: The Heart of Greenland Discover and explore the western coast of Greenland around Disko Bay. Have your breath taken away by the Arctic scenery of icebergs, glaciers and the stunning UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ilulissat Icefjord. Meet the warm, welcoming people of Greenland and learn about Inuit culture.

The Northwest Passage Sail in the wake of famous explorers, a landscape of unspoilt glaciers, mountains and vast plains. Scout for magnificent creatures like walrus and polar bears in places where few humans have set foot. The line’s expertise in extreme conditions means it’s one of the few to offer sailings through the Northwest Passage.

Highlights of Antarctica This expedition explores the icy wilderness of Antarctica during its summer season, seeing its stunning landscapes and meeting some of its heart-warming wildlife.

Adventure to the end of the earth, with one of the lowest carbon-emission footprints of all expedition voyages to this region.

Northern Lights Expedition Cruise from Dover This expedition is ready and waiting to bring you north to Norway’s magical landscapes on the hunt for one of nature’s greatest spectacles: the Northern Lights.

There are just a few places on Earth where you can sail north of the Arctic Circle in wintertime, a prime area of Northern Lights occurrences.

Circumnavigating Spitsbergen: In the Realm of the Polar Bear Attempt to sail above 80°N and fully circumnavigate the island of Spitsbergen.

Eastern Svalbard boasts the highest population of polar bears in the archipelago and summertime offers good chances of sighting them hunting on the sea ice. See beautiful fjords, glaciers, and icebergs in the pristine Arctic wilderness aboard a comfortable and intimate expedition cruise.

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Circumnavigating Iceland: The Land of Elves, Sagas and Volcanoes With an unmatched expertise in Arctic waters, Hurtigruten will show you the soul of Iceland.

Explore the mystical land of fire and ice, its fascinating waterfalls, volcanoes and glaciers side by side. A paradise for bird and whale watching, this circumnavigation expedition allows you to see the entirety of Iceland’s coast.

The line is renowned for itineraries to Antarctica, Iceland, Greenland, the Northwest Passage and Svalbard.”

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LUXURY EXPEDITION REPORT

SAFETY

Safer together

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our safety is Hurtigruten’s highest priority. The line has introduced several strict measures on all ships, designed to keep you safe from COVID-19. The line will be constantly updating these measures according to the latest guidelines from local authorities.

Hurtigruten is proud to announce that Professor of Medical Microbiology Ørjan Olsvik has joined the company as an advisor.

He’ll be passing on his more than 10 years of experience in infection control to the onboard medical teams, helping them operate in the safest way possible. Some of the organisations to have already benefited from his expertise include the WHO, UN, NATO and the CDC in the US.

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GETTING ON & OFF

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MASKS AND FACIAL COVER

Negative COVID-19 tests will be required by all crew and guests before embarking on expedition cruises. Guests affected by these testing measures will receive information on the requirements before travelling. All guests will have their temperature checked upon embarkation and at any point during the trip, you are asked to wash hands when embarking or disembarking, cruise accounts with touch-free cards will be used to limit the use of cash, the number of people who embark and disembark at any given time is regulated.

Safety face masks for all passengers over the age of 12 are required during embarkation and disembarkation, in non-dining public spaces and in situations where the recommended social distancing is challenged. On Norwegian Coastal Voyages, you may bring your own face mask or buy medical face masks on board. For Expedition Cruises, face masks will be provided at no extra cost. Both medical face masks and cloth face masks are allowed for guests. Crew are required to use medical face masks.

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BOARDING

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SOCIAL DISTANCING

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CLEANING

You are required to hand in a selfdeclaration form. This ensures the safety of you, your fellow passengers and the crew on your sailing. This declaration is required to allow you to travel with Hurtigruten, and the line reserves the right to refuse embarkation for guests with missing or incomplete information. This form will confirm that you are not showing signs of any COVID-19 symptoms at embarkation, and that you have not been in contact with anyone who has COVID-19 in the last 14 days.

To facilitate social distancing, the number of guests in restaurants, lecture halls, swimming pool, sauna and gym will be limited. Guests will be offered several time options for meals and activities. In-cabin services and floor markings for appropriate distance are other measures that facilitate safe social distance for guests and crew.

By using the latest technology, certified cleaning products and disinfectants, Hurtigruten promises a 100 per cent clean onboard environment. In addition to thorough daily cleaning, public areas and cabins are fully disinfected regularly.

Sanitising stations are placed in all public areas. The entire ship will be disinfected in each turn-around and every day during expedition cruises. Strict cleaning routines are secured through internal and external hygiene inspections.

HVAC filters and drinking water are checked regularly.

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CRUISE PLUS: EXPEDITION LEADERS

“I SUFFER FROM POLAR FEVER”

Cruise Passenger speaks to two adventurous women leading intrepid cruisers off the beaten path.

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urtigruten’s expedition vice president, Karin Strand, 48, describes herself as “suffering from permanent polar fever.” She grew up in the Norwegian fjords on Norway’s western coast and today she has notched up more than 150 Antarctic expeditions after working with Hurtigruten for more than 20 years. A keen kayaker, she adores adventure and the outdoor life.

Q: What’s the best thing about about your job? People always think it’s the fresh air and wildlife, but I love my role because I’m responsible for Hurtigruten’s logistics and operations. It’s a very hands-on and involved role – just last month I was experimenting in our Zodiacs and playing with new ways to pack equipment that will make our shore excursions more efficient. Ever since I started working with Hurtigruten, that logistical side has gripped me.

Q: Have you ever had a scary experience? We put a lot of effort into planning every part of an expedition, but there have been occasions where things haven’t gone to plan. I was once on a shore excursion with around 80 people when sudden winds blew in and made the water unsafe. We couldn’t return to the ship for nearly seven hours, so we had to stay on the ice and use emergency kits to keep people’s spirits up with food and water. The passengers had good stories about how they became trapped on the Antarctic Peninsula!

Q: Why do you love Antarctica? Antarctica is just empty and white. There’s no sign of humanity, no buildings, no internet, no noise. It’s complete solitude in a pristine environment. I’m amazed that we’re able to visit these places and I hope other travellers appreciate the importance of leaving it as they found it.

Q: What’s the wildlife like? The wildlife is as spectacular as you might expect but brutal too. One of my most memorable encounters was with a leopard seal, who was picking off penguin chicks who were too close to the water.

It did this for hours right in front of me. Whales, especially humpback whales, always cause excitement. It’s not necessarily because they’re rare, but because you hardly ever see them as they’re below the surface.

Q: What’s your favourite activity? I really recommend people try the kayaking expeditions when they come to Antarctica. You see things differently from the water. It’s a slower, more intimate way of exploring.

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CRUISE PLUS: EXPEDITION LEADERS

“I GET TO SHARE MY PASSION”

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andrine Erwin-Rose, 44, has loved leafing through her father’s Jacques Cousteau books as a child. Her first working cruise was from Bali to Cairns; she has been working with Ponant for more than six years and is now the line’s expedition operations manager and expedition leader.

She can’t wait to sail again and take guests on more amazing adventures through the Kimberley.

Left: Karin Strand.

Above: Sandrine Erwin-Rose.

Q: Why do you love being an expedition leader? I get to spend time in some of the planet’s most wild and remote places, from the Southern Ocean and Subantarctic Islands to the Kimberley Coast and each place holds a special place in my heart. We see rare wildlife up close, experience the vast expanse of the ocean and the land, and best of all, I get to share my passion for

these places with our guests who are keen to learn and appreciate them too. I love the connection guests make with the land, the water, the wildlife and the people we visit.

Q: What do you love about the Kimberley? The sheer vastness of the Kimberley takes your breath away and appeals to everyone on different levels. Some people love the geology aspect – knowing you’re surrounded by some of the oldest rocks on the planet, for others it’s the wildlife, and for others it is the Aboriginal rock art that they connect with. For me, the Kimberley is overwhelmingly a humbling reminder that we are very small part of the environment and a huge motivation to want to protect it.

Q: What animals do you see? The mangrove ecosystems are a haven for wildlife and our guests enjoy seeing

not only the impressive crocodiles but also the monjons, birds, dugongs, flying foxes and mudskippers. If we’re lucky, we get a glimpse of a manta ray or snubfin dolphin. During July and August, we see the migration of the humpback whales, which come to the Kimberley to mate and give birth.

Q: What’s the highlight? Every spot is unique and even when we visit the same place a week or so apart, we always find something new and exciting – this is what keeps me and all our expedition guides coming back. The tides are spectacular at Montgomery Reef and by timing our Zodiac tours just right, guests can see the reef emerge as the tide recedes. This visual spectacle is nothing short of mesmerising, with 400 square kilometres of reef seeming to lift up out of the water before your eyes. cruisepassenger.com.au

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A Sailing Adventure Like No Other

Circumnavigate Australia aboard the world's largest squarerigged sailing vessel

Only 140 Cabins

Inaugural World Voyage

Experience an adventure like no other aboard the new Golden Horizon, the World’s largest square-rigged sailing vessel, as she undertakes her inaugural world voyage including a circumnavigation of Australia in 2021/2022.

Visiting a mix of iconic and remote ports of Australia, you can partake in the full circumnavigation of Australia – or choose a leg of the voyage to discover a region you have always wanted to visit.

Bali to Cairns 15 Nights | 9 Ports Starts 07 Dec 21 from $8,715*pp Fremantle to Bali 15 Nights | 9 Ports Starts 03 Feb 22 from $8,600*pp

You’ll love the relaxed, casually elegant ambience on board a ship which perfectly marries rich sailing heritage and modern luxury, with a sustainable twist – sailing without using propulsion, wherever possible.

Just 140 cabins - all with ocean views

Authentic sailing experience

2021/22

Bali to Bali 73 Nights Cruise & Stay Starts 07 Dec 21 from $43,935*pp

Adelaide to Fremantle 14 Nights | 10 Ports Starts 21 Jan 22 from $7,760pp

All onboard meals, beer & wine with lunch & dinner

Cairns to Sydney 16 Nights | 8 Ports Starts 21 Dec 21 from $10,615*pp

Sydney to Adelaide 17 Nights | 12 Ports Starts 05 Jan 22 from $10,560*pp

Great savings available on combination voyages

For more information 1800 507 777 www.CruiseTraveller.com.au/tradewind2021 or contact your travel agent *Prices listed are in AUD per person twin share in a Cat C2 Oceanview cabin and include 1 night pre-cruise or post-cruise hotel stay and transfer to port on embarkation day. Prices are correct at time of print and availability is limited.

Ports are subject to change. Rates subject to currency fluctuation until paid in full. For full terms and conditions please see our website. We reserve the right to correct errors. CPMAPR21

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CruisePlus Experiences, food and wellness on your travels

INSIDE

The rise of tall ships 50

Superyacht special report 53

Review: PLAYPEN 54

Last word 58

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CRUISE PLUS: SUPERYACHTS

Clockwise from far left: a crew member on deck; the rigging; the original, France II; the sails

sailing ship operator Star Clippers, destined to sail as Flying Clipper.

“The contract was cancelled,” says Tradewind Voyages’ CEO Stuart McQuaker. “Our owner owns the shipyard. He decided the most sensible thing he could do was start his own cruise line.”

Starting a cruise line from scratch during a global pandemic had its challenges. The original team of five had a couple of weeks together in the UK office before Britain went into lockdown. “The team is now 18,” says McQuaker. “That’s 13 people who were recruited by Zoom.”

When he saw the ship in the yard, McQuaker, whose background is in the Royal Navy and Saga Cruises, knew what he wanted to do. “The owner had some pretty standard ideas about bumbling round the Mediterranean and the Caribbean,” he says. “It was obvious that this was a really high-quality replica of a proper clipper ship. The sails and hull configuration were the same as the original, so it really had to be used for

sailing. If you start and finish in the same port on a tall ship, by definition, 50 per cent of the time you’re not sailing. The concept I came up with was that we would use the winds and the currents to follow the sun.”

Conventional itinerary planning via Zoom meetings is one thing but the Tradewind team needed more.

“We got out big, old-fashioned paper routing charts,” says McQuaker.

“They show for every month of the year and every ocean what the winds and currents are doing. To design the initial itineraries, we spread out these charts on the table.” In other words, far beyond the reach of Zoom.

Nonetheless, itineraries came together, with only a six-week delay caused by the pandemic.

The plan is to sail an initial season out of the UK, through the Mediterranean and down the Suez Canal. After a couple of Dubai departures, Golden Horizon will cross the Indian Ocean to Singapore, continuing east to Bali. Subject to Australia’s border being open, she’ll set a course for Cairns, where she will arrive mid-December for a nearcircumnavigation of Australia.

Prices for a journey from Adelaide to Perth over 16 nights start from $10,260 pp. See cruisetraveller.com.au.

WE ARE SAILING Golden Horizon joins a growing fleet of sailing vessels giving cruisers the chance to experience a truly magical and environmentally friendly experience.

Windstar Cruises Windstar has three ships under sail. Its flagship Wind Surf was resailed two years ago, and she now carries 342 guests and works Europe and the Caribbean. Wind Star has space for just 148 guests and traverses the Greek Islands and Pacific Coast, while the 148-passenger Wind Spirit sails the South Pacific.

Ponant Alongside Ponant’s fleet of ultra-chic motor yachts is Le Ponant itself, an intimate sailing vessel with just 16 cabins and suites, one crew member per passenger, a dedicated chef and exclusive experiences arranged at every stop. This ship redefines the concept of luxury yachting.

Sea Cloud Cruises Tall ships Sea Cloud and Sea Cloud II have recently been joined by the newly built Sea Cloud Spirit, a fully rigged three-master. On these ships, sailing is not just for show – they really work the canvas to carry their guests.

Star Clippers This fleet of beautiful clipper ships have a loyal following. Royal Clipper, Star Clipper and Star Flyer are modern ships but filled with tradition. The 439-foot Royal Clipper carries 227 guests in luxurious style.

Star Clipper and Star Flyer are both 360 feet long and each carries just 170 guests. cruisepassenger.com.au

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30/3/21 3:27 pm

CRUISE PLUS: SUPERYACHTS

Clockwise from far left: a crew member on deck; the rigging; the original, France II; the sails

sailing ship operator Star Clippers, destined to sail as Flying Clipper.

“The contract was cancelled,” says Tradewind Voyages’ CEO Stuart McQuaker. “Our owner owns the shipyard. He decided the most sensible thing he could do was start his own cruise line.”

Starting a cruise line from scratch during a global pandemic had its challenges. The original team of five had a couple of weeks together in the UK office before Britain went into lockdown. “The team is now 18,” says McQuaker. “That’s 13 people who were recruited by Zoom.”

When he saw the ship in the yard, McQuaker, whose background is in the Royal Navy and Saga Cruises, knew what he wanted to do. “The owner had some pretty standard ideas about bumbling round the Mediterranean and the Caribbean,” he says. “It was obvious that this was a really high-quality replica of a proper clipper ship. The sails and hull configuration were the same as the original, so it really had to be used for

sailing. If you start and finish in the same port on a tall ship, by definition, 50 per cent of the time you’re not sailing. The concept I came up with was that we would use the winds and the currents to follow the sun.”

Conventional itinerary planning via Zoom meetings is one thing but the Tradewind team needed more.

“We got out big, old-fashioned paper routing charts,” says McQuaker.

“They show for every month of the year and every ocean what the winds and currents are doing. To design the initial itineraries, we spread out these charts on the table.” In other words, far beyond the reach of Zoom.

Nonetheless, itineraries came together, with only a six-week delay caused by the pandemic.

The plan is to sail an initial season out of the UK, through the Mediterranean and down the Suez Canal. After a couple of Dubai departures, Golden Horizon will cross the Indian Ocean to Singapore, continuing east to Bali. Subject to Australia’s border being open, she’ll set a course for Cairns, where she will arrive mid-December for a nearcircumnavigation of Australia.

Prices for a journey from Adelaide to Perth over 16 nights start from $7,760 pp. See cruisetraveller.com.au.

WE ARE SAILING Golden Horizon joins a growing fleet of sailing vessels giving cruisers the chance to experience a truly magical and environmentally friendly experience.

Windstar Cruises Windstar has three ships under sail. Its flagship Wind Surf was resailed two years ago, and she now carries 342 guests and works Europe and the Caribbean. Wind Star has space for just 148 guests and traverses the Greek Islands and Pacific Coast, while the 148-passenger Wind Spirit sails the South Pacific.

Ponant Alongside Ponant’s fleet of ultra-chic motor yachts is Le Ponant itself, an intimate sailing vessel with just 16 cabins and suites, one crew member per passenger, a dedicated chef and exclusive experiences arranged at every stop. This ship redefines the concept of luxury yachting.

Sea Cloud Cruises Tall ships Sea Cloud and Sea Cloud II have recently been joined by the newly built Sea Cloud Spirit, a fully rigged three-master. On these ships, sailing is not just for show – they really work the canvas to carry their guests.

Star Clippers This fleet of beautiful clipper ships have a loyal following. Royal Clipper, Star Clipper and Star Flyer are modern ships but filled with tradition. The 439-foot Royal Clipper carries 227 guests in luxurious style.

Star Clipper and Star Flyer are both 360 feet long and each carries just 170 guests. cruisepassenger.com.au

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EXPLORE ON BOARD STAR BREEZE with Windstar Cruises in 2022

EDGE OF THE OUTBACK

DREAMS OF TAHITI

12 NIGHTS - CAIRNS TO SYDNEY

7 NIGHTS - PAPEETE RETURN

Sail the east coast, Cairns to Sydney, in small ship luxury

Celebrate at Windstar’s Destination Discovery event and fun-filled signature onboard barbecue

DEPARTURE Star Porthole Suite

- 10th Nov 2022

- 17th Mar 2022

- from $6,729

DEPARTURE Star Porthole Suite

Balcony Category

- from $9,229

Balcony Category

- from $5,535

Suite Category

- from $11,589

Suite Category

- from $6,645

- from $4,145

Carrying only 312 guests, Star Breeze is large enough to pamper and entertain you, yet small enough to tuck into delightful tiny harbours and hidden coves that others can’t reach.

To book contact Windstar Cruises or your local travel agent: 1300 749 875

reservations@windstar.com.au

*Terms and conditions apply. Prices are per person twin share and are correct as at 10 March 2021. Windstar Sales Fares are inclusive of all discounts, taxes & fees, subject to availability, currency fluctuations and seasonal surcharges. Prices are capacity controlled and can change any time. Not included in cruise fare: International airfares from Australia, any pre/post cruise accommodation or transfers, shore excursions, alcoholic beverages, gratuities and items of a personal nature. Cruise itineraries are not guaranteed and can be changed or cancelled at anytime by Windstar Cruises.

Special offers are valid for new bookings only. Change and cancellation conditions apply and will be advised at the time of booking. Lic 2TA003774

SPECIAL REPORT SUPERYACHT

Superyachts for everyone The pandemic created a surge in demand for luxury private ship breaks. Teresa Ooi wants in.

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ustralians forced to forego international travel have found a way to recreate their favourite luxury cruise holiday.

Superyachts have been so popular that many mega-yachts have repositioned to Australia from billionaire playgrounds in the Mediterranean. But you don’t have to be a Packer to take a private yacht holiday. You can charter a stylish 35-metre superyacht to cruise local waters for just a few thousand dollars per person – and that includes food, drinks, crew and a chef.

Superyacht Australia hosted a soirée recently to showcase a range of vessels at Jones Bay Wharf, Sydney, and the interest exceeded expectations. Many attendees were cruisers who would otherwise have been booking luxury lines.

“It’s cheaper than a five-star cruise on Seabourn, Silversea or Crystal,” says David Good, chief executive of Superyacht Australia.

Mr Good said that the pandemic has been a blessing in disguise as more Aussies are chartering yachts for family

and friend holidays locally as they can’t go overseas.

“We have seen a sharp increase in the charter business. More people are reevaluating their holiday plans. Instead of flying abroad to celebrate a major birthday, they are now chartering superyachts to spend two weeks in the Whitsundays, Fraser Island or the Kimberley,” he said.

“Our sweet spot is the 35- to 40-metre yachts which cost between $40,000 and $100,000 a week to charter. This works out to be around $4,000 per person as a 35-metre superyacht can comfortably sleep 10 people.”

He said that the pandemic has also seen a sharp increase in the sale of recreational boats with many buyers paying a 20 per cent premium for second-hand boats.

“There is now a two-year wait for Australian-made, bespoke superyachts,” he added.

Currently, most charter superyachts head north to the Whitsundays for winter and return to Sydney in October for the summer festive season. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SUPERYACHT

All in the detail For Jeni Bone, a private yacht charter was the ultimate solution for an extended family holiday.

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he reality of restrictions inspired us to explore our backyard, and my parents’ impending diamond anniversary prompted us to come up with a fitting family celebration that fit those parameters.

The concept of chartering a luxury superyacht fit the bill perfectly. Family of four plus four grandparents makes for a party of eight aboard our own private yacht for a sojourn at sea that would satisfy us all. The more detail, the better. Double cappuccino before your feet hit the floor in the morning? Voila! Twist of lime, no ice,

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SUPERYACHT

“In Alaska, the crew dashed off in the tender and chipped off a piece of iceberg for guests to enjoy in their G&Ts while they sat in the hot jacuzzi, marvelling at the backdrop,” he said.

“We’ve had whale sharks swimming off the back of the yacht, seals coming aboard on the transom. These are things people remember and talk about for a lifetime.”

With images swirling in our minds of swimming with docile mega-marinelife followed by sundowners in the hot tub, we set off en famille to Hamilton Island to meet PLAYPEN. Our luggage whisked away, we were met by a golf buggy and, heady with balmy tropical air, skipped the crowds and scooted to the marina to start our charter.

Very VIP. PLAYPEN’s nine crew members greeted us with cocktails for the grown-ups and mocktails for the kids.

Shoes off, de rigeur aboard superyachts, every bone in our bodies surrendered to the calm.

Our enclave was the master stateroom on the main deck, a full-beam suite with his and hers bathrooms separated by switch glass, complete with bath tub and hamman steam shower, an office and large, cedar-lined robe. The kids and grandies were ensconced below decks in equally lavish quarters. PLAYPEN has accommodation for up to 10 guests in five cabins, so our kids had their own rooms, complete with TV and massive portholes for waterline views. Sophie, 12, and Alex, 14, were transfixed by the kitchenette in their foyer, primed with tea, coffee, fruit and snacks for whenever the munchies hit.

Our first stop was deemed the world’s best beach for 2021 by Tripadvisor. Whitehaven, on Whitsunday Island, is a 7-kilometre stretch of the finest white sand against equally dazzling azure water. The sand is 98 per cent pure white silica, which gives it a mesmerising luminescence. Anchored just offshore, PLAYPEN turned the heads of our fellow boaties.

Gordon’s only in your G&T? Just how you like it. Our only duty was to pack for a week on board and count the days until we set sail.

For our North Queensland charter, our superyacht broker matched us with MY PLAYPEN, a 43-metre global explorer available for the first time on the charter market. PLAYPEN has circumnavigated the world, from the Maldives to the Med, and is now Down Under.

Our captain, Peter Cook recounted some international bucket-list experiences of former guests.

Clockwise from left: Jeni and her family; PLAYPEN and watertoys at sea; the full crew.

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SUPERYACHT We and the kids tendered to shore, while the oldies stayed onboard, relaxing on deck for the best views.

Back onboard, our appetites piqued by Amanda’s recitation of that evening’s menu of steamed coral trout, mozzarella, fig and jambon salad and banana flambé, we dispersed and found our own nooks until dinner; kids in the jacuzzi, a movie playing on the big screen, us on the aft deck below chatting with Captain Peter and our parents in the saloon, making themselves at home.

Day two dawned and many hours later (for a change), we emerged from our palatial cabin to the aromas of tropical fruit smoothies. Our plans for the day included a walk to the lookout on the crest of Tongue Bay. Nature was abundant along the track, including birds, lizards and wallabies, and stingrays in the shallows below us.

Later, at Hill Inlet, we splashed around in the shallows, the entire beach to ourselves.

On day four, we headed to Butterfly Bay on the northern end of Hook Island for kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding and snorkelling. From there, we cruised to nearby Hayman Island, where PLAYPEN anchored in Blue Pearl Bay and we tendered ashore for a couple’s spa sesh – sheer bliss. Our dedicated crew set up the marquee and all the water toys on the beach at Blue Pearl Bay and, that afternoon, we enjoyed some of the best soft-coral snorkelling ever.

On day six, our crew organised a rendezvous with a seaplane from Hamilton Island Air for a special flight

From top: Sophie and Alex playing on the beach; the family snorkelling at Blue Pearl Bay; the seaplane at Hamilton Island.

+ FACT FILE VESSEL: MY PLAYPEN (MY stands for Motor Yacht) MAX PASSENGER CAPACITY: 10 TOTAL CREW: 9 LENGTH: 142ft/43m ENTERED SERVICE: New to charter FACILITIES: 5 staterooms, each with ensuite; Main saloon with lounge and formal dining plus aft deck dining, Bridgedeck lounge with bar and lounge, Flybridge sundeck with sunlounges and Jacuzzi; jetskis, underwater scooters, SUPS, kayaks, fishing gear, waterskis, wakeboard, towable inflatables, snorkelling equipment.

BOOKING: superyachtaustralia.com

+ THE VERDICT HIGHS: No crowds, no queues, no need to lift a finger, total privacy, thorough indulgence, instant relaxation, bespoke itineraries, menus and activities.

LOWS: Travel restrictions mean charter is limited to Australia. Still, there are myriad destinations.

BEST FOR: Groups of friends, extended families.

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SUPERYACHT

over the islands and the Reef, before cruising south to Haslewood Island, a picturesque anchorage with crystalline water and an inviting stretch of white sand.

This was the moment we had been working up to – my parents’ 60th anniversary celebration.

Our crew created a sensational setting on the beach, with marquee and barbecue. Dad and mum, my in-laws, husband, kids and I dressed to the nines and were taken ashore accompanied by the soundtrack of the hits of the ’50s and ’60s. We commemorated the diamond jubilee as the sun set, with gourmet kebabs, seafood, salads and copious bottles of champagne. Then we sprawled out on deck chairs and cushions, rugged up against the evening breeze, to watch classic black and white movies on the beach with only the stars to illuminate our cinema.

Talk about memories for several lifetimes.

The crew ferried the sleepy kids back while the rest of us lit sparklers and cut the cake. Then the fireworks began, and so did the waterworks – we cried, we reminisced, and we toasted their 60-year milestone.

My dad’s dream was to play a round of golf at Dent Island, the world-renowned, par 71 course designed by five-time British Open winner, Peter Thomson. So, on our final day, while the blokes chased white balls around the utterly breathtaking Dent Island course, the crew took the rest of us ashore to Hamilton Island Wildlife.

That afternoon, we bade farewell to our crew and our glorious escape vessel, feeling more like family than passengers and already dreaming of our next charter.

From top: PLAYPEN’s sundeck; PLAYPEN in Bora Bora; the main dining room onboard.

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LAST WORD

Meet Kate: the world’s most Insta-famous ship’s captain Captain Kate chats to Kaye Holland about social media, maritime ambition and hairless cats.

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ate McCue – who became the first woman to captain a megaship at age 38 and accessorises her uniform with black platform Christian Louboutins – may be pretty, but she’s also gritty.

The woman at the helm of Celebrity’s flagship, Celebrity Edge, was supposed to sign off for three months of shore leave last March. Then COVID-19 hit.

Kate chose to remain on the ship, anchored off the Bahamas, rather than return to her home in Las Vegas.

“When we started to see difficulty involved in repatriating crew, I really wanted to be onboard until the last crew member went home,” she said.

She moved her stranded crew into balcony rooms – “You have access to fresh air and sunshine, and it really makes a difference” – and documented life onboard during a pandemic on Instagram (@captainkatemccue) for her 241,000 followers. Bug Naked, Kate’s hairless elf sphynx cat, who accompanies her on each cruise, has more than 48,000 of her own followers on a separate Instagram account (@bugnaked).

As well as Instagram, Kate has a TikTok account – “it’s a way to let your goofy out” – and a YouTube channel aimed at the serious cruise fanatic.

The stylish skipper caught the cruise bug at age 12.

“My parents took me and my brother on a four-day voyage to the Bahamas. Afterwards I said to my dad: ‘I want to be a cruise director when I grow up.’ My dad replied: ‘You can do anything you want to do in the world – including drive the thing.’”

Seed firmly planted, Kate applied to California State University Maritime Academy. Upon graduating in 2000, she sent her CV to every cruise line but after 18 months without success she applied to Disney to be a bartender.

“They said I wasn’t qualified, as I’d never served a drink in my life, but took me on as a third mate.”

In 2003, she moved to Royal Caribbean as a second officer and spent 12 years at the cruise giant “working

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You can do anything you want to do in the world – including drive the thing.”

my way up.” In 2015, Kate got a call from Lisa LutoffPerlo, president of Celebrity Cruises, a brand in the Royal Caribbean Group, offering her the job of captain of Celebrity Summit. Kate’s response? “Hell yes.”

She became Summit’s commanding officer – the first American woman to captain a modern megaship – before moving to Celebrity Equinox in 2018 and on to her current ship, the billion-dollar Celebrity Edge, in 2019.

Her advice for women wanting to follow in her seafaring footsteps is, “Just do it – it’s the greatest adventure you will ever go on.”

Despite working in what is traditionally a maledominated environment, Kate is adamant that she has never experienced sexism in the workplace.

“On our ships we have 75 different nationalities, so we’re all a minority of some sort. We don’t pick on those minorities, we celebrate them,” she says.

Onboard, Kate refuses to follow conventions, doing away with the Captain’s Table.

“If I go to a captain’s dinner, I spend three hours with eight people, which still leaves 2,900 other people. I want to be accessible to everyone.”

Kate’s appetite for the cruise industry and savage levels of workaholism are obvious, and I can’t help wondering how she manages to juggle work and marriage to Nikola Petrovic, who she met when they were both working on a Royal Caribbean ship.

“I always say the secret to a happy relationship is 12 time zones,” Kate quips. “We make it work. Technology has made life so much easier. You used to get to a port, hop on the payphone and have 20 minutes until the next person was banging on the glass.”

Having achieved her goal of captaining a cruise ship, Kate would love to become a ship’s godmother.

“Our godmother is Malala Yousafzai. I’m no Malala, but it would be special to be responsible for the ship and also be the one who blesses her,” she says.

Kate is optimistic about the future and believes it will take more than a pandemic to stop people cruising.

“Have faith. People will travel again, and we know that they will come on cruises.”

cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE WITH CONFIDENCE CLIA cruise lines have committed to some of the most extensive new health measures of any industry in the world.

Developed with the help of leading medical experts internationally, they cover almost every aspect of cruise ship operations to maintain health and safety as the highest priority.

From 100% testing of all passengers and crew to extensive onboard protocols, your CLIA cruise specialist travel agent can help you understand the new health measures at sea.

Visit www.cruising.org.au for more information on CLIA’s COVID-19 Member Policy and to find your nearest CLIA cruise specialist travel agent.

HOLIDAY AT HOME WITH VIKING IN 2022-2023 Cruise with Viking and explore the world in Scandinavian comfort, on modern spacious ships with only 930 guests. With the added comfort of industry leading health and safety protocols, these closer to home itineraries will give you peace of mind in this new age of cruising, whether it be your first time or the next.

M O E R A K I BO U L D E R S , OTAG O, N E W Z E A L A N D THAILAND Gulf of Thailand

Bangkok (Laem Chabang) Kuala Lumpur (Port Klang) MALAYSIA

$2,000

South China Sea

AUSTRALIA

Java Singapore Arafura SINGAPORE Jakarta Sea Lombok Sea Komodo Thursday Island Java Semarang Timor Cairns Coral Sea Surabaya Darwin Townsville Sea Bali (Benoa) Whitsunday Islands

N

Cruise Overnight in Port

$5,800

Sydney

INDONESIA

AUSTRALIA

Brisbane Newcastle Sydney

Auckland Rotorua

Melbourne Bass Strait

N

TASMANIA Hobart Cruise Overnight in Port

Tasman Sea

NEW ZEALAND

Napier

Wellington Christchurch Dunedin Foveaux Strait

ONE-WAY

BUSINESS CLASS FLIGHT INCLUDED*

SOUTH PACIFIC SOJOUR N

AUSTR ALIA & NEW ZEALAND

SYDNEY – BANGKOK or vice versa 29 DAYS | 17 GUIDED TOURS | 5 COUNTRIES SET SAIL MAR, NOV 2022 From $14,695pp in Veranda stateroom

SYDNEY – AUCKL AND or vice versa 15 DAYS | 9 GUIDED TOURS | 2 COUNTRIES SET SAIL JAN – FEB, DEC 2022; JAN – FEB 2023 From $7,995pp in Veranda stateroom

E N J OY, I T ’S A L L I N C LU D E D

PRIVATE VER ANDA STATEROOM | NORDIC SPA FACILITIES | SHORE E XCUR SIONS | CHOICE OF 8 DINING OP TIONS WINE & BEER SERVED WITH LUNCH & DINNER | 24 HOUR ROOM SERVICE | WI - FI & GR ATUITIES NE WEST SMALL SHIP FLEE T | INDUSTRY- LE ADING HE ALTH & SAFE T Y PROGR AM

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VIKINGCRUISES.COM. AU OR SEE YOUR LOC AL VIKING AGENT

*Conditions apply. Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability, includes all advertised discounts and correct at time of printing. Australia & New Zealand pricing based on 5 January 2023 and South Pacific Sojourn based on 10 November 2022 departure. One-way Included Business class air offer up to the value of $1,800 per couple. Business class applies only to the international leg of the flight. For bookings with a flight offer, a second non-refundable deposit of $1,000pp is required 10 months prior to departure or at the time of flight booking, whichever comes first. Included Flights and Flight Credits will be booked by Viking and with Viking’s choice of airline from major gateway cities in Australia. These offers are valid on new bookings made between 29 December 2020 and 31 March 2021 unless sold out prior. For full terms and conditions visit vikingcruises.com.au.