Cruise Passenger – Issue 75, Autumn 2019

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ISSUE 75 AUTUMN 2019

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CONTENTS

cruıse Issue 75, Autumn 2019

34

passenger

Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au Deputy editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Art director/production manager Catherine Martin Sub editor Hannah Warren

9-25 / Cruise News

44

Strategic partnerships manager Carolyn Mackley carolyn@bigsplashmedia.com.au 02 9356 8888

Printed by Spotpress

SHIP REVIEWS

30 / Norwegian Jewel

34 / Celebrity Edge It’s all indulgence, all the time for Sue Bryant on this designer ship.

Digital manager Rupert Orchard

Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 - Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 - International cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine

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Bernadette Chu is onboard a shiny new Jewel for her post-refit sailing.

Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au

Contributors and writers Sue Bryant, Bernadette Chua, Katrina Lobley, Peter Lynch, Teresa Ooi, John Roberts, Hannah Warren, Vanessa Wu.

2019 A U T U M N

38 / Niuew Statendam Music is the major drawcard on this Holland America vessel, finds Sue Bryant.

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MEDITERRANEAN SPECIAL

44 / Med marvellous Med An overview of the region.

46 / Top 10 ports Our favourite cruising destinations.

56 / How to.... Enjoy the Med

CRUISE MEDIA

Four ways to explore the Mediterranean.

AUSTRALASIA

Cruise Passenger magazine is published by Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Copyright Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders.

Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided.

Always consult your travel agent.

Cover: Illustration of Santorini

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CRUISE PLUS

82

64 / Destination: India The Asian country poised on the brink of a cruise revolution.

68 / Tiger tales Peter Lynch goes on safari on the Brahmaputra River onboard Mahabaahu.

72 / The islands time forgot The outlying isles of Okinawa offer travellers adventure, beaches and culture.

76 / A star is born Princess’s Across the Ditch program is the perfect way to explore New Zealand.

PUBLISHER’S LETTER

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Paying the price of popularity

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22 80 / Cruise calendar

84 / Food

All the international and local events you’ll want to plan your travel around this year.

Vanessa Wu compares steakhouses at sea.

86 / Wellness

82 / Hotel review

New and improved onboard facilities and programs.

Capella, on Singapore’s Sentosa Island, is a luxury escape from the city.

88 / Style: Club Med.

83 / Boot scootin’ cruisin’

91 / Port schedule

Katrina Lobley line dances through a country music cruise.

94 / Last word: Cruising with Oprah.

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nother successful summer of local sailings has come to an end, and we are turning to other parts of the world.

The Mediterranean, particularly, draws tens of thousands of Australians, and millions from elsewhere (read our report on the Med, p. 43). In fact, the area is so popular, more and more cities are imposing tourist taxes (see p. 16) to cover the cost of managing huge numbers of visitors.

It’s true that local residents pay a price so travellers can visit in comfort and safety, with costs to services like policing, health and waste management, as well as disruption to daily lives. Of course, while the local economy benefits from tourist dollars, it is rarely spread evenly, and many locals see little of it. So, as numbers swell, taxes make sense.

We do take issue when cruise passengers are singled out, simply because they choose to travel by sea. Mega-liners are big, true. But so are the crowds at airports and railway stations.

Amsterdam, a major cruise port for river and ocean vessels, recently imposed a levy of €8 for visitors staying 24 hours or less. Some cruise lines saw this as a way of taxing cruisers’ on-shore excursions and are now boycotting this charming city. CLIA says members are extremely disappointed. The city’s port receives €60 million in fees from cruise ships.

There is no doubt the rise in global tourist numbers, including the fairly recent addition of China and India’s middle classes, has put pressure on cities with cultural icons.

What’s important in this debate is the vital relationship between tourists and locals that is part of the joy of cruising.

We understand the need to share costs.

But we also think it’s important that citizens value the contribution made by visitors – including those who arrive and leave by sea.

Mutual respect and understanding will go a long way to resolving this growing issue.

Smooth sailing!

Peter Lynch Publisher, Cruise Passenger cruisepassenger.com.au

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THE BIG PICTURE

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THE BIG PICTURE

THE BIG PICTURE DRESDEN GERMANY Brühlsche Terrasse, on the banks of the River Elbe in Dresden, is a spectacular sight for river cruisers.

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CruiseNews OCEAN • RIVER • ADVENTURE • PORTS

INSIDE

10 Our pick of the top 5 most extravagant suites at sea

16 Cruisers are being hit by new visitor taxes

18 The Virgin voyage of your life on the Scarlet Lady?

Cunard’s bellboys stride out in their new uniforms designed by R.M.Williams.

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CRUISE NEWS: BEST SUITES

They are bigger, smarter and ever more indulgent.

Lines are vying for the luxury dollar with suites that are more extravagant than ever before. So if you have some spare cash and want to book the best suite on the ship, here’s our pick of the bunch.

1

Regent Seven Seas / The Regent Suite When RSS Splendor launches next year, her top accommodation will be the super spacious 412-square-metre Regent Suite, with two bedrooms, separate living and dining rooms, two and a half marble bathrooms with a choice of Guerlain, Bottega Veneta and L’Occitane toiletries., two separate balconies with a Tresse Minipool Spa overlooking the bow of the ship and a glass-enclosed sun room. The in-suite spa retreat has a sauna, steam room and jetted tub where you can sip a glass of Veuve Clicquot. If that’s not enough to have you signing on the line, the suite also features a Steinway Grand piano by Dakota Jackson, two rare original lithographs by Picasso, hand blown Lalique vases and a personal butler.

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2

Crystal Cruises / Crystal Penthouse with Veranda This stylish, 125-square-metre suite has a luxurious living room and separate dining area with a built-in bar, Swarovski chandelier and custom-built entertainment centre with flat screen TV. The queen-sized bed has Frette linens, his and hers walk-in closet and an expansive teak balcony. The marble master bathroom with Jacuzzi has stunning ocean views, separate shower and bidet and heated floor and bench, while the separate guest bathroom includes a shower.

CRUISE NEWS: BEST SUITES

HOME SUITE HOME

As more Australians are jumping aboard luxury ships, Teresa Ooi takes a look at what money CAN buy.

3

4 Hapag Lloyd / Owner’s Suite Described as an exquisite home on the oceans of the world, it has a living space of 99 square metres and a balcony of 15 square metres with loungers and seats. As well as separate living and dining areas, there is a sunroom with a whirlpool and a day bed, tucked in behind the bathroom with double vanities, shower with steam sauna, and separate toilet. The spacious bedroom has a walk-in wardrobe, study desk and entertainment system, and the complimentary minibar is stocked with a selection of soft drinks, beer and top shelf liquor.

5

Silversea / Owner’s Suite

Seabourn / Grand Wintergarden Suite

The two-bedroom Owner’s Suite with large teak balcony exudes classic elegance. It measures 150 square metres in size and has separate living and dining areas with Illy coffee machine and writing desk with personalised stationery, plus a bar stocked with beverages of your choice and a dedicated butler. Both bedrooms have handmade Savoir mattresses, down duvets and pillow menus, as well as ensuites with full-sized tubs and separate showers, Bulgari bath amenities and Etro bathrobes.

The 120-square-metre Wintergarden Suite is a gracious home away from home. It has two bedrooms, with two marble bathrooms (one with a whirlpool bathtub) supplied with Molton Brown toiletries, a convertible sofa bed for one, a glass-enclosed solarium with tub and day bed, two flat-screen TV sets, and two 17-square-metre balconies. If you’re the host with the mostest, there is a also a guest bathroom, a fully stocked wet bar with beverages of your choice and dining space for six.

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CRUISE NEWS

/ NSW CRUISE TERMINAL A PRIORITY A report released by federal government body Infrastructure Australia highlighted the need for increased capacity for cruise ships in Sydney, where the lack of space at the Overseas Passenger Terminal has resulted in a number of cruise lines homeporting ships in other states. According to the report, “While there is capacity at the White Bay Terminal, it does not cater for the industry’s shift towards larger ships, which cannot fit under the Sydney Harbour Bridge.” This is a priority project and Infrastructure Australia seeks a solution within the next five years.

Current proposals include maximising the capacity of existing terminals, modifying existing terminals and developing new cruise terminals.

/ SPLENDID NEW WATERSLIDES Carnival Cruise Line has revealed the much-anticipated design for Carnival Splendor’s new WaterWorks water park, to be added as part of her extensive dry dock in November. In anticipation of her arrival into her new homeport of Sydney in December, it includes two thrilling green-and-gold waterslides that tower 50 metres above the waterline. If the walk up to the start of the slide isn’t enough of a draw for daredevils, the green slide is almost 40 metres long, beginning with a 11.3-metre free-fall drop, while the yellow slide takes riders through 104 metres of twists and turns before they return to deck. WaterWorks will also include MiniRacer slides, splash toys and The Power Drencher tipping bucket, so the whole family can get in on the fun.

/ PRINCESS ADDS FIVE NEW SHIPS Princess Cruises’ fleet is set for a growth surge, with Sky Princess to enter service in the Mediterranean in October this year, Enchanted Princess due June 2020, and another unnamed ship under construction in Italy expected in 2022. All three 143,700-ton Royal-class ships carry 3,660 guests and will include the best of the features found on the existing Royal-class ships, such as the revolutionary Ocean Medallion high-tech environment, as well as new offerings.

The three Royal-class ships will be joined by two additional LNG-powered hybrid ships on order for delivery in 2023 and 2025. By that time, Princess will have a fleet of 22, a capacity increase of 32 per cent over the next six years.

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CRUISE NEWS

/ CUNARD’S BIG RETURN Cunard’s love affair with Australia means luxury liner Queen Elizabeth is set to spend another record season down under.

The 2,081-passenger ship is currently on a 54-day season homeported in Melbourne and Sydney, but she will spend almost twice as long as that based in Melbourne in 2019-2020, when she will sail a 101-day season. Queen Elizabeth will spend Christmas in local waters – a first for Cunard – and spend New Year’s Eve in Auckland, enjoying the world’s first fireworks of the new decade. During her current season, the famous red-andblack liveried bellboys will sport a distinctly Down Under look

by R.M. Williams and hat-maker Akubra.

/ AROUND THE WORLD IN 180 DAYS Go Around the World in 180 Days with Oceania Cruises, visiting 100 ports of call and 125 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 44 countries across six continents. The epic voyage on the recently refurbished Insignia will set sail from Miami on January 9, 2021, and end in New York City six months later on July 9. The 2021 itinerary boasts more continents, countries and ports visited than its 2020 counterpart.

Itinerary highlights include exploring Istanbul’s ancient mysteries; watching the Makahimi Games in Hilo, Hawaii; wandering sultry Havana; and relaxing in the dreamy South Pacific. Overnight stays at 16 destinations include overland tours to Uluru, the temples of Bagan, the Taj Mahal and the pyramids of Giza.

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/ POLISHED DIAMOND As part of Princess Cruises’ $634 million fleet-wide refurbishment program, Diamond Princess has undergone an extensive 14-day dry-dock in Singapore. The Movies Under the Stars experience has been improved with 7.1 surround-sound digital audio and pool deck LED lighting enhancements. The Lotus Spa and Fitness Center has also been refurbished, with upgraded salon and treatment rooms and the fitness centre now has the latest Precor fitness equipment.

Other enhancements include refreshed public spaces, an enhanced digital audio system for the Princess Theatre, Explorers Lounge and Club Fusion, and Japanese bidets in public restrooms and suites.

/ NEW SHIP ORDERED FOR RSSC Regent Seven Seas Cruises, the line behind the The Most Luxurious Ship Ever Built, has announced an order for a third explorer-class ship, a sister to Seven Seas Explorer and Seven Seas Splendor. She is scheduled for delivery in late 2023, and voyages for the inaugural season will go on sale in 2021. She will accommodate up to 750 guests and will be RSSC’s sixth all-suite vessel. “We are excited to build on the spectacular success of Seven Seas Explorer and Seven Seas Splendor as we embark on bringing to life a new vessel that will set an even higher benchmark for elegance, luxury and style,” said Frank Del Rio, president and chief executive officer of Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings Ltd. The ship will cost around $750.5 million and be built by Fincantieri of Italy, where Splendor is currently under construction.

/ PRIVATE ISLAND DOWN UNDER While Royal Caribbean is preparing for the relaunch of Perfect Day at CocoCay, part of the line’s new Perfect Day Island Collection, the line is also adding an island in the South Pacific – rumoured to be an Australian one – as well as one in Asia and a second in the Caribbean. “We have been busy acquiring land around the world and each one will have a slightly different concept, depending on what each market’s idea of a perfect day is,” said President of Royal Caribbean Michael Bayley. CocoCay is scheduled to re-open in May and exciting new features will include the Oasis Lagoon, the largest freshwater pool in the Caribbean; a geyser; a water play area with slides; and Splashaway Bay aquapark.

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CRUISE NEWS

Cruisers hit by new taxes In attempts to manage over tourism, changes are being made to visitor taxes.

T

his year, a number of major destinations are imposing a fee on travellers arriving by ship.

On January 1, Amsterdam, one of the world’s most popular cruise ports, imposed a levy of €8 ($13AUD) per person for visitors staying 24 hours or less, which is then passed on to passengers. The city already had tourist taxes in place for those who stay overnight in hotels, B&Bs and Airbnbs, which means cruise passengers have bypassed the tax – until now.

The city felt that day visitors do not contribute enough to the economy to justify the pressure on the city’s infrastructure, and should also be charged.

The tax, which was imposed with a scant two months’ notice, has caused several cruise lines, including Cruise and Maritime Voyages (CMV) and MSC Cruises, to pull the city from their itineraries.

“Stringent cost controls and long-term planning are key components in achieving the required CMV pricing model. The late introduction of these new and unphased charges are therefore not budgeted and simply cannot be absorbed,” said CMV CEO Christian Verhounig.

“The local politicians have failed to acknowledge or understand that the cruise industry plans their budgets two to three years ahead and have been unwilling to look into a proper implementation schedule.

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Amsterdam’s canal-side houses are a popular draw for cruisers.

Fortunately, we have mobile assets and when forced by short-term political objectives, can change our programming.”

The line has cancelled the rest of its calls to Amsterdam in 2019 and 2020 – Columbus was supposed to make 30 calls and Magellan was scheduled for seven.

Instead, the line will send its ships to nearby Rotterdam.

Gianluca Suprani, Head of Global Port Development and Shore Activities at MSC, told Seatrade Cruise that the company would withdraw calls this year.

“We decided to pull our business in 2019 and as a result Amsterdam city stands to lose between €50-€100 per passenger in respect of potential spend.”

Cruise Lines International Association in the UK and Ireland said members were extremely disappointed that the City of Amsterdam has introduced a day tourist tax, saying it ignored the economic contribution of cruisers.

“Transit cruise passengers represent only one per cent of the total tourist traffic in Amsterdam and last year the City of Amsterdam received over €60 million in net revenues from the Port of Amsterdam as a result of cruise calls to the city,” Andy Harmer, director of CLIA UK & Ireland told The Telegraph.

Amsterdam is not the only city to put a tax on cruise passengers. In 2017, the Catalan government updated its tourist tax to include a fee of €0.65 ($1AUD) for cruise passengers staying less than 12 hours in the port of Barcelona.

Venice also recently imposed a €2.50 to €10 fee (depending on the season) on visitors, which will be added to their ticket. The city also announced in 2017 that it cruise ships over 55,000 tonnes will be banned from sailing past St Mark’s Square by 2021.

And thanks to highly popular television series Game of Thrones, holidaymakers are flocking in unprecedented numbers to Dubrovnik, one of the primary filming locations. In response, this year the Croatian government increased the tourist accommodation tax by 25 per cent to 10 kuna ($2AUD) per person per night, and limited the number of cruise ships to two a day with a maximum of 5,000 passengers.

CRUISE NEWS

/ BID TO UPGRADE YOUR STATEROOM Australian and Kiwi guests will now be able to upgrade their stateroom through the new RoyalUp program from Royal Caribbean.

Guests from Oceanview and Balcony staterooms can bid to upgrade to one of the more expensive suites. After booking, guests will receive an email from Royal Caribbean advising them whether the stateroom upgrade option is available. They can then submit an offer and if they are successful, will be charged and upgraded.

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CRUISE NEWS: VIRGIN VOYAGES

VIRGIN CRUISER Get a first look at the Scarlet Lady, Sir Richard’s high-octane new cruise ship, writes Bernadette Chua.

I

n 2009, billionaire philanthropist Sir Richard Branson broke the internet after pictures emerged of the maverick kitesurfing with a naked model riding on his back.

Famous for his wild fantasies and large-scale media stunts, just like the happy snap of him kitesurfing, Sir Branson has once again broken the internet with the hype around the launch of his new adults-only cruise line, Virgin Voyages.

The first of his three ships, Scarlet Lady, will sail in 2020 with another two to follow in 2021 and 2022.

While the 68-year-old Branson has never cruised in his entire life (or had any desire to cruise), he has promised the non-cruiser the voyage of their life.

With tattoo parlours, high-energy DJs, pool parties and visits to private islands that could rival Ibiza, Branson has said it will be different to anything else on the market and is aimed at the ‘hip, witty, cheeky’ crowd.

“I never want to go into a business unless we are going to radically alter it and radically create something that everybody who works for Virgin and everybody who comes into contact with Virgin is going to feel really proud of,” Branson told Business Insider.

Above: the chic outdoor lounge, Richard’s Rooftop.

Below: Pink Agave Mexican bar.

“I’ve never been on a cruise ship – I’ve never fancied a cruise ship. Basically, we want people who are sophisticated and young at heart, people who want to have a good time.”

Virgin Voyages is offering shorter itineraries, mainly sailing around the Caribbean. And there is even a special 70th birthday cruise for the man himself in July 2020. You’ll get to party with Sir Richard and some of his celebrity mates – maybe even that naked model.

So here’s what we know so far about the Scarlet Lady.

/ Take the Vitamin Sea Scarlet Lady will offer the Vitamin Sea program for guests who want to relax and detox. Aside from the well-being program, there will be hosted fitness classes (all of which will be included in the fare) in the ship’s nine new onboard spaces. The Crow’s Nest has 360-degree views from the sundeck and there will be mats placed around the space for sunrise and sunset yoga. Scarlet Lady will also feature The Runway running track, The Athletic Club which is modelled on a 1920s sports club with a boxing ring, as well as The B-Complex Gym with rooms for spin, cardio and yoga.

For some pampering, head to Redemption, the ship’s spa which includes a barber shop, a male pedicure spa, a blow-dry bar as well as a mani-pedi spa.

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CRUISE NEWS: VIRGIN VOYAGES

We want people who are sophisticated and young at heart, people who want to have a good time.” feed to refuel after a night of dancing, The Pizza Place is a casual chill-out spot where you can grab a slice and relax in the hammocks.

/ RockStar Suites

/ Get inked Tom McAlpin, president and CEO of Virgin Voyages, has said that tattooing is a time-honoured seafaring tradition. So why not get something to commemorate your holiday (if you’re not into getting your photo taken)? Onboard at the Squid Ink tattoo studio will be two full-time resident tattoo artists, handpicked by ink industry guru Lou Rubino Jr, owner of World Famous Tattoo Ink, a brand that has over five decades of tattooing experience. But if ink isn’t your thing, you can always get a piercing.

Above: room to relax in your cabin.

Below: grab your guitar of choice.

The suites on Scarlet Lady will be divided into eight categories, from the 2oo-square-metre Massive Suite that sleeps six, down to the 33-square-metre Seriously Suite. Each RockStar suite is furnished with European king-sized beds, as well as upgraded bath amenities.

Suite guests will also have exclusive access to top-deck lounge Richard’s Rooftop. The two Massive Suites, which are the largest suites onboard, will have a rock music theme that includes music rooms stocked with guitars and an amplifier. All 78 suites will be housed on the top deck and have private balconies for the best ocean views. The suite class onboard Scarlet Lady will make use of a ‘wardrobe team’ and RockStar Coordinators in place of butlers and other perks such as complimentary pressing and nightly express swimsuit-drying services.

/ Eat, drink, eat Virgin Voyages has said it will be reinventing the food game on cruise ships – there will be no buffets or main dining rooms. Instead, there will be a range of options from fine dining to healthy meal plans. The Wake, which will offer a “theatrical take on seafood and steak”, is inspired by the famous Wolseley steakhouse in London. At Razzle Dazzle you can enjoy your brunch with a side drag show and at The Test Kitchen you can feast on gastronomical fare in this laboratory-like eatery which is part cooking school, part restaurant.

At the Korean BBQ eatery, Geonbae (which means ‘bottoms up’ in Korean), guests are encouraged to down their soju after sizzling their meat. And for a late-night cruisepassenger.com.au

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RIVER CRUISE NEWS

/ TRAVELMARVEL’S NEW SHIPS Travelmarvel has placed an order for three new European river ships, marking a major investment for the line. The new vessels will have 91 cabins and feature a two-and-a-half deck design, allowing maximum access to the sun deck. Guests will be able to enjoy a drink at the rooftop bar, find a shady spot to unwind at the terrace garden, or go for a dip in the heated whirlpool. Both the main restaurant and Vista Lounge feature floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows, and the Vista Lounge’s bi-fold windows open out to the front veranda, for uninterrupted airflow and outdoor access. The Contemporaryclass ships will also feature a more casual dining and social area. The first of the ships will sail in April 2020 followed by two more in 2021.

/ MORE DISNEY CRUISE MAGIC Adventures by Disney is expanding its river cruise operations in 2020 by adding the Rhone River to its itineraries, bringing its total journeys in European rivers to 27. Disney’s partnership with AmaWaterways with APT means the cruises will be hosted on the 144-passenger AmaCello.

The seven-night Rhone itinerary will take travellers through Provence with stops at Lyon, Tournon, Avignon and Arles, with activities including kayaking beneath the 2,000-year-old Roman aqueduct, Pont Du Gard, truffle hunting, cheese and jam making, and visits to olive farms, wineries and chocolatiers. Adventures by Disney is also offering two-night Short Escape trips in Paris, Amsterdam and Budapest that can be added to river cruises or taken on their own.

/ TAUCK HEADS TO PORTUGAL Tauck has announced it will offer Douro River cruises for the first time in 2020 on a ship that is being built specifically for the Douro River. The ship will be named Andorinha, after a species of swallow that symbolises family, home and fidelity in Portugal and she will have an intimate setting – she’ll only be able to cater for 84 passengers in 42 cabins, including 12 suites. The line will offer three itineraries on the Douro River: an 11-night cruise tour that combines a seven-night cruise with two-night hotel stays in Lisbon and Madrid; a seven-night cruise-only itinerary; and a cruise dedicated to families. The first departure is set for June/July 2020.

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RIVER CRUISE NEWS

/ AVALON ADDS TO SUITE FLEET Avalon Waterways has announced a new ship, Avalon View, set to be launched in the summer of 2020 on the Rhine. The announcement comes ahead of Avalon Envision’s launch in April on the Danube. Suites onboard Avalon View will have the award-winning open-air balconies: wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling windows that offer the widestopening windows on the rivers. Both Avalon Envision and Avalon View are 135 metres long with two Royal Suites (28 square metres) and 65 Panorama Suites (18.5 square metres), both with window-facing beds, as well as 16-square-metre staterooms. Avalon’s fleet is the youngest on Europe’s rivers.

/ AMAMAGNA IS COMING The much-hyped world’s largest river cruise ship, AmaMagna, is finally due to debut in May. The AmaWaterways ship is nearly twice the width of traditional European river ships and combines the grandeur of an ocean liner with the intimacy of the river-cruising experience. At 22 metres wide, AmaMagna was purpose designed to sail the Danube, the second-largest river in Europe, which features larger-than-usual locks and connects 10 countries from Germany to Romania. The extra space allows for grand public areas and amenities, including five bars; four dining venues; a Zen Wellness Studio; a pop-up elevator to the Sun Deck; and the only water-sports platform on the river.

/ MEKONG JEWEL TO REPLACE NAVIGATOR Uniworld has released renderings of its upcoming river ship, Mekong Jewel, one of the line’s three super ships due to enter service in 2020. The all-suite ship will be one of the most luxurious on the Mekong River; she will have the same capacity as Mekong Navigator (who she is replacing) but she will be 10 metres longer, offering more space and amenities including an al fresco eatery on the upper deck, a swimming pool, spa, sauna and steam room, gym, hair salon, nail bar, two lounges and a library. Mekong Jewel will sail 13-day itineraries from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap, with visits to Phnom Penh and Angkor Wat. cruisepassenger.com.au

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23

EXPEDITION NEWS

Scenic Eclipse to be the first of a fleet Expedition cruising is taken to a new level as Scenic plans more discovery yachts.

W

hen the revolutionary six-star discovery yacht Scenic Eclipse finally casts off on its first journey this August, it will mark the start of a new chapter in expedition cruising, according to its designer and owner, Glen Moroney.

The chair of the luxury travel group, Scenic, who took on Europe’s river cruise designers and won with his Space-Ship vessels 20 years ago, has personally worked to beat the problems of a shipyard in financial crisis to complete the world’s first discovery yacht.

Despite delays costing almost 12 months, the pioneer now says the Croatian Uljanik shipyard has been rescued by a consortium including legendary Italian shipbuilder Fincantieri. The new joint venture will focus on readying Scenic Eclipse for the revised 15 August launch date.

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Luxury and adventure combine on Scenic Eclipse.

Moroney’s second $350 million discovery yacht is already part-way through construction, and he has signed an agreement to develop a fleet.

“The Scenic Group has signed a letter of intent with the new consortium that will lead the shipyard to set up a new Discovery Yacht division within the restructured Uljanik group,” said a company statement.

“This new joint venture will be fully focused on completing Scenic Eclipse and on expediting the build of the second Scenic Eclipse, as well as progressing development of the next generations of Scenic’s Discovery Yachts.”

Apologising to those who had booked aboard the first vessel, the company added: “We are deeply sorry for the inconvenience these delays to the launch of Scenic Eclipse have caused our guests.”

Scenic has provided passengers with a full refund and will offer all guests who rebook a Scenic Eclipse voyage a future cruise credit to the value of 25% of the cost of their rebooked cruise.

So now the Scenic Eclipse, whose stunning design, twin helicopters and onboard submarine captured the public’s imagination, is back on track, where will she sail?

Scenic’s website lists two cruises on offer for August 2019 – one from Quebec City to New York and another from Iceland around Atlantic Canada.

If you take advantage of early bird specials, you can get a free 20-minute submarine adventure. Not many lines can offer that!

EXPEDITION NEWS

/ SILVERSEA EXPEDITION WORLD CRUISE Luxury line Silversea has announced the first-ever expedition world cruise, set to launch in 2021. Silver Cloud will take you to some of the most remote destinations in the world over 167 days. Departing Ushuaia, guests will visit Antarctica’s highlight destinations, then head for Chile’s Valparaiso via the Chilean fjords, before setting sail for Papeete, Tahiti, via Easter Island and the Pitcairn Islands, and then voyaging towards Lautoka, Fiji. Other iconic destinations in Oceania include remote exploration stops in Vanuatu, the Solomon Islands and Papua New Guinea before arriving in Cairns and heading to the Kimberley Coast. From Australia, Silver Cloud will visit destinations in Indonesia, Singapore and Sri Lanka, then sail on to the cities of Cochin, Athens, Lisbon and Reykjavik. All up, the cruise encompasses 107 stops in 30 countries.

OPERA IN THE KIMBERLEY APT, one of Australia’s leading cruise and travel brands, has created a new partnership with Opera Australia that will offer APT passengers some extraordinary experiences.

Two of Australia’s finest opera singers will perform in Cathedral Gorge, in the heart of the Bungle Bungle Range, exclusively for APT Kimberley guests. The huge natural amphitheatre within Purnululu National Park, Western Australia, will host this musical first on September 8-9 as part of Opera in the Kimberley. “The acoustics are amazing and it promises to be an astonishing performance,” says APT Director Robert McGeary. APT is also a production partner for the national tour of Madama Butterfly.

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Home-away-from-home. You can just as easily visit the ship’s bridge as unwind in the hot tub.

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CruiseReviews INSIDE

Norwegian Jewel in Australia 30

Celebrity Edge in the Caribbean 34

Floating art gallery, the Nieuw Statendam 38

The social heart of Celebrity Edge, the Martini Bar.

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SHIP REVIEW: NORWEGIAN JEWEL

polished gem After an extensive refit, Norwegian Jewel is back on the water and Bernadette Chua is onboard.

W

e are sitting at Tsar’s Palace aboard the newly refurbished Norwegian Jewel as the residual storms from Cyclone Owen hit the east coast, just off Sydney.

While the wind and rain batter the ship from the outside, the lightning illuminates the decorative window coverings, accentuating just how ornate and decadent this restaurant is.

It takes more than a cyclone to disrupt the ordered world of Tsars, where the crab cakes, beef medallions and crème brûlée continue to be served impeccably, despite the rocking of the ship. It’s amazing to watch the waiters compose themselves on the unstable floor while balancing stacks of dishes on their arms.

Jewel has just spent two weeks in a Singapore dry dock undergoing one of Norwegian Cruise Line’s most extensive refits to date. Tsar’s is just one example of how the American line has balanced the traditional with the new; it is fresh while remaining beautiful and ornate, with white marble columns, chandeliers and 30

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SHIP REVIEW: NORWEGIAN JEWEL

NCL’s popular Burn the Floor dance music show.

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SHIP REVIEW: NORWEGIAN JEWEL plush velvet chairs. It’s hard to believe that a meal in this elegant room is included in the price.

The rest of the ship has also received significant updates, but retained much of its charm.

It’s Norwegian’s free and easy spirit, as well as its homey feel, that has attracted loyal customers from around the globe and won new friends in Australian waters.

I am lucky enough to be onboard Jewel on one of her first post-facelift sailings, a sailing from Sydney to Hobart and Launceston in Tasmania then up Melbourne.

A big part of the refurbishment is the updates to the accommodation; all 1,188 staterooms have been upgraded with new televisions and USB outlets, as well as new carpet, artwork, furniture, wood paneling and

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Norwegian Cruise Line VESSEL: Norwegian Jewel STAR RATING: 3+ PASSENGER CAPACITY: 2,376 TOTAL CREW: 1,069 PASSENGER DECKS: 12 ENTERED SERVICE: 2005 TONNAGE: 93,502 FACILITIES: Restaurants, bars, theatres, spa, pools and VIP area.

BOOKINGS: See ncl.com.

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Above: a sweet treat at Dolce Gelato.

Below: linguine at La Cucina.

The ship has received significant updates but retained much of its charm.” upholstery. But one thing that always amazes me about Norwegian ships is the size of their bathrooms.

In my ocean balcony cabin, the bathroom has a large shower, his and hers basins and a separate toilet. The room, which is spacious for a couple, has a make-up table, a small lounge, and a compact balcony with two chairs and a table, perfect for a continental breakfast in the morning.

For VIP guests, The Haven has been re-imagined with stunning cabanas and a clean and modern private pool area, as well of plenty of art, a nod to Norwegian Cruise Lines Holdings CEO Frank Del Rio, whose love of art is also apparent in NCL’s sister brands, Oceania Cruises and Regent Seven Seas, which are also adorned with his favourite pieces.

The ship also boasts two new Haven Deluxe Owner’s Suites, each a whopping 112 square metres and featuring 52-square-metre balconies, two private Jacuzzis and accommodation for up to four guests.

The Haven also has its own private restaurant and butler service, where the staff remembers how you like your martini and coffee, and how you want your minibar stocked.

Jewel has also had updates to her existing dining offerings, which include options such as Tsar’s Palace, and the pan Asian venue Chin Chin. Fee dining options include Teppanyaki, where guests have food thrown to them by their chefs, and Moderna, the Brazilian eatery, where you can try beautifully barbecued meat. The Pit Stop is new onboard, and is an American-style diner-slash-bar where you can grab a burger or drink with a view of the pool.

We are lucky enough to dine at one of the best specialty restaurants known throughout the fleet, the Italian eatery La Cucina. In true American style, the servings are large and filling, but the food – alfredo

SHIP REVIEW: NORWEGIAN JEWEL and cabonara pasta, osso bucco, panna cotta and tiramisu is authentically Italian. There is also an extensive wine list, showcasing the best vineyards around the world, from the Napa Valley to Tuscany.

Entertainment are another hallmark of Norwegian and the line has focused on mixing up and creating new productions to match the ship’s upgrade. There are two new ones onboard: Velvet, making its debut in Australia, is a heady mix of disco and cabaret, and Rock You Tonight includes music from the likes of The Who, Queen and Journey.

There are shows on every evening and the beauty of Norwegian Cruise Line’s ‘Free at Sea’ concept is that there is free seating in the theatres, as well as no set dining times and no stiff dress codes. So everything is ultimately up to you.

Unfortunately for the kids (and the young at heart), during the dry dock Norwegian removed the slide to make way for more room around the pool area, but there are plenty of other activities.

The new Mandara Spa is massive. It has its own thermal suite where you can purchase a pass and indulge in a coconut poultice massage or get a facial.

Sea days are the perfect time to get a spa treatment, so on the first day, I don my bathrobe and head to the spa.

I have a lovely, strong masseuse from South Africa who has worked in luxury resorts in Johannesburg and I opt for a hot stone massage, which is incredibly relaxing; I even fall asleep. But there are two downsides to the experience – the first is that my hour of bliss inevitably comes to an end and the second is the price. As a word of caution, Norwegian Cruise Line charges in American dollars, and especially with the weak Aussie currency, fixing up the bill at the end of the cruise can come as a shock for unwary passengers.

Overall, the refurbishment is a big improvement and is going down well with Jewel’s easy mix of American, European and Australian guests. For everyone sailing on her in the future, she’s a lovely mix of relaxation meets sophistication and you’ll feel right at home.

From top: the Haven pool area; a hot stone massage at Mandara Spa; Jewel sailing into Sydney.

THE VERDICT HIGHS: The food was excellent, and the choice of eateries was fantastic. The revamp also means that returning guests have the opportunity to try out some of the new offerings. The new productions onboard were also absolutely spectacular. As someone who is not a big cruise ship entertainment fan, I was convinced.

LOWS: It’s a new ship and the staff is getting their bearings; some aspects of the service could improve. Some of the room service meals took a while to arrive and the ladies in the spa could be friendlier.

BEST SUITED TO: older couples and groups of friends looking for a getaway.

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SHIP REVIEW: CELEBRITY EDGE

LIFE ON THE EDGE Celebrity’s latest offering is a totally new cruising experience for Sue Bryant.

H

igh up on Deck 14, cocktail in hand, I’m standing on the edge of the Magic Carpet, a warm Caribbean breeze in my face, nothing but sea in front, behind and to the side. I feel as though I’m flying over the water.

The Magic Carpet is probably the star attraction of Celebrity Cruises’ ultra-stylish new Celebrity Edge. The work of Tom Wright, the architect behind Dubai’s flashy Burj Al Arab hotel, the structure was originally designed as a nifty platform for boarding the tenders. It evolved into a moving space, the size of a tennis court, surrounded by glass and suspended over the ship’s starboard side on a distinctive, tangerine-coloured frame. The Magic Carpet now has four functions: tender platform, al fresco extension of the Raw on 5 seafood restaurant on Deck 5, a posh restaurant on Deck 16, and (best of all) a smart lounge-bar when it’s by the pool on Deck 14.

There was the chance that the muchhyped Edge would be a case of style over substance but happily, the ship is more than its gorgeous form, like a posh boutique hotel, if somewhat bigger at 129,500 tonnes. I never feel overwhelmed by crowds, thanks to the high ceilings, vast expanses of glass and many quirky hangout areas. The tasteful neutrals add a sense of serenity, and everything feels luxurious, curvy, touchable. The colour scheme bears the hallmarks of Kelly Hoppen, the interior designer responsible for the

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staterooms, the suites and the spa; soft greys, cream and taupe lifted by splashes of burnt orange, rich mauve and aquamarine.

A big talking point is the 918 Infinite Veranda staterooms, though if you’ve been on a river cruise, these will seem familiar. Half the wall of glass slides down at the push of a button to create a balcony effect and give you 27 per cent more space than you’d get in regular balcony accommodation. The cabins certainly feel roomy; even the bathrooms are spacious, with generous walk-through showers. Most of the features, including the lights and shutters, are controlled by the Celebrity app; download this to your phone to have it open your cabin door.

Celebrity goes all-out for its top-spending passengers on Edge, with 176 suites, twice as many as on the line’s other ships. The most covetable are six two-level, glass-fronted Edge Villas with an outdoor plunge pool that go for upwards of an eye-watering $8,500 per person per week. Two Iconic suites sit above the bridge wings, with vast terraces and private hot tubs from which you enjoy a better view than the captain. All the suites share The Retreat, a sanctuary with concierges, a lounge, the Luminae restaurant and an exclusive outdoor deck. The latter has the vibe of a very smart beach club, with oversized rattan loungers adorned with grey and white striped cushions, and basket chairs that swing gently over an azure pool.

SHIP REVIEW: CELEBRITY EDGE

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SHIP REVIEW: CELEBRITY EDGE Celebrity regulars may have fond memories of the half-acre Lawn Club on the Solstice-class ships. This has gone on Edge, replaced with the Rooftop Garden, a bar and grill, dance floor, big screen and general outdoor living room; a mixture of quiet little enclaves and long, wavy wooden benches, also the work of Tom Wright. Sculptural wooden ‘trees’ create shade and serve as wind breaks, and the whole area is lush with big potted shrubs. When I visit, a guitarist is perched on a platform under one of the trees, playing gentle Spanish classical melodies; a pleasing change from the thumping music round the pool.

Wright designed the pool area, too, on which I was less keen. Oversized, two-deck-high ‘martini glass’ hot tubs on slender stalks seem a bit gimmicky. One side of the pool is lined by cabanas – but $400 per day for one of these seems like a rip-off, even if you do get six beers and a bottle of Grey Goose thrown in.

I’d save my dollars for the gorgeous, Kelly Hoppendesigned gym and spa. Here, $59 is good value for a day pass to the thermal suite, where you can frolic in eight different saunas and steam rooms and meditate in nest-like basket chairs, gazing out to sea.

Another somewhat divisive feature is Eden, a dreamy lounge spanning three decks, supported by skinny, tree-like columns, filled with tropical plants and surrounded by the tallest wall of glass at sea, so you almost feel part of the ocean. A walkway spirals around the whole complex space, giving it an almost organic feel.

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So far, so good, but Eden is inhabited by a team of ‘Edenists’, ethereal creatures who waft around all day dressed like forest nymphs, striking poses and occasionally performing aerial stunts from a swing. After dark, things hot up with lots of lasers and writhing as the Edenists tell the story of the Garden of Eden. It’s all a bit contrived, and at my table, we cringed every time a character tried to encourage participation in the show.

Dining on Edge is quite a departure from Celebrity’s other ships. The main dining room has been replaced by four separate restaurants, with some common menu items and some unique to each restaurant. Cyprus is Mediterranean; Tuscan is a nod to the Tuscan Grille on Celebrity’s other ships; Cosmopolitan is modern American and Normandie, French. All four are beautifully designed; I’d opt for Select Dining Plus, so you can rotate between them.

Celebrity regulars will recognise Blu, the healthy restaurant reserved for Aquaclass passengers; Café Al Bacio, for snacks and gelato; and the light, airy main buffet, the Oceanview Café. Everything else, though, is new – and in some cases, fairly pricey. There’s steak at The Fine Cut

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Celebrity Cruises VESSEL: Celebrity Edge STAR RATING: NYR PASSENGER CAPACITY: 2,918 TOTAL CREW: 1,320 PASSENGER DECKS: 14 ENTERED SERVICE: 2018 TONNAGE: 129,500 FACILITIES: Restaurants, bars, lounges, nightclub, pools, spa, Magic Carpet, exclusive suite area.

BOOKINGS: Edge is sailing the Mediterranean and Europe, with 7-night itineraries starting at $1,600.

See celebritycruises.com

SHIP REVIEW: CELEBRITY EDGE

Steakhouse ($55); great piles of seafood at Raw on 5 (à la carte pricing); BBQ-style dishes at the Rooftop Garden Grill ($45); molecular cuisine in Eden ($65) and French classics in the Grand Bistro ($25).

I was completely enchanted by Le Petit Chef ($55). A section of Le Grand Bistro has special tables, where fantastically clever technology projects tiny, 3D cartoon figures onto each plate. Four virtual mini-chefs bustle around, preparing food, performing stunts, squabbling and creating each of four dishes on your plate. Once the dish is ready, waiters appear bearing an exact, real-life version for you to eat. Fabulous.

Above: pool area.

Left: balcony on an Edge Villa; archways around the pool; bedroom in a villa.

There’s a great deal more to love about Edge, from the state-of-the-art theatre to a ‘real’ nightclub, as opposed to a lounge with dancing. The eclectic art collection is fabulous, and the individual designers have included personal touches. Paris-based duo Jouin Manku, who are responsible for the dazzling Grand Plaza atrium, a colourchanging contemporary chandelier shimmering at its centre, have left a stretch of bare steel exposed on one wall, still bearing graffiti from the shipyard workers, as a constant reminder that you’re on a ship.

Edge may be a bit too, well, edgy for Celebrity’s more conservative customers but if you’re in the market for something cool and contemporary, step this way.

THE VERDICT HIGHS: Chic interiors; a beautiful spa; the chance to switch between four stylish main dining rooms; the Rooftop Garden; cocktails on the Magic Carpet.

LOWS: Expensive cabanas; the over-thought performances in Eden; expensive alternative dining.

BEST SUITED TO: Millennials, hipsters, families (the children’s clubs are excellent); anybody wanting one of the best suite experiences at sea with all the buzz of a big ship.

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SHIP REVIEW: NIEUW STATENDAM

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SHIP REVIEW: NIEUW STATENDAM Left: the elaborate main dining room.

Right: the main Lido pool deck.

The brand spanking Nieuw Statendam is all indulgence from start to finish, finds Sue Bryant.

HITTING THE RIGHT NOTE

i

’m admiring a statue of Michelangelo’s David, fashioned out of clear Perspex. Standing in the lift lobby of Deck 9, David is, for all the world, identical to the original, apart from the fact that he’s holding a phone in one hand and contemplatively taking a selfie. He’s part of the extraordinary, $2 million contemporary art collection on Holland America Line’s Nieuw Statendam – the 2,000 pieces making the ship a veritable floating art gallery.

Nieuw Statendam is Holland America Line’s second Pinnacle-class ship, similar to sister Koningsdam, but with a few modifications. Built in Venice, launched in December 2018 and named in February 2019 by godmother Oprah Winfrey, the 2,666-passenger ship is aimed, the line claims, at ‘modern explorers, food lovers and music lovers’. This sums it up pretty accurately; the shore excursions are a cut above, the food is superb and the entertainment like nothing else at sea, filling the ship with music every night. There’s

more than a touch of Oprah, too, with meditation sessions, wellbeing activities and an onboard book club.

At 99,836 tons, Nieuw Statendam is a manageable size, stylish, light, and contemporary without being intimidatingly hip. The interiors were designed by Adam D. Tihany, who has worked for Four Seasons and Mandarin Oriental, and Bjørn Storbraaten, veteran of many a luxury ship. Their brief was to acknowledge the line’s Dutch origins while embracing the fluid lines of musical instruments. As a result, the ship is full of curves; the beautiful, light-filled dining room, over two levels, is shaped like the inside of a violin, while the focus of the atrium is a seven-and-a-half ton stainless steel sculpture inspired by the strings of a harp.

There’s music everywhere. The heart of the ship is the Music Walk, through which you can twirl from live classical to blues to rock in a few steps. Partnerships with big brands ashore means the performers are top-notch, not least the classical musicians from New York’s Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts who play early evening. There’s an outpost of the BB King’s Blues Club, with a fantastic seven-piece band that has the audience grooving on the dance floor. Next door, passengers join rowdy singalongs to duelling pianos in the Billboard Onboard bar.

The coup de grâce is Holland America Line’s first ever Rolling Stone Rock Room, a music bar in partnership with the iconic magazine. I meet several passengers who had booked purely on the strength of this, which seemed extreme, but I understood why as a brilliant band, vetted by Rolling Stone, belted out Led Zeppelin and Lynyrd Skynyrd late into the night.

The World Stage offers something different as well.

Instead of song-and-dance production shows, the double-height theatre, surrounded by huge LED panels, cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: NIEUW STATENDAM

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Holland America Line VESSEL: Nieuw Statendam STAR RATING: NYR PASSENGER CAPACITY: 2,666 TOTAL CREW: 1,025 PASSENGER DECKS: 12 ENTERED SERVICE: 2018 TONNAGE: 99,836 FACILITIES: Spa and salon, pools, restaurants, bars, lounges, Music Walk, exercise centres, kids’ clubs.

BOOKINGS: . See hollandamerica.com

features singers, musicians and magicians, using the panels to create stunning backdrops. On my cruise, young British soprano Annette Wardell wowed the audience with her rock ‘n’ roll version of Mozart’s Queen of the Night.

The food is so good that I confess to a shameful weight gain on my short voyage. The fare in the elegant main dining room is classy and beautifully presented, while the casual Lido Market, where separate food stations serve dishes from all over the world, is better than your average buffet. Passengers also rave about the hot dogs from Dive In and the freshly made pizzas from the New York Deli, overlooking the Lido pool.

The speciality dining, too, is good value compared to some ships. The Asian-fusion Tamarind costs $35 and has its own sushi bar, Nami Sushi, as well as al fresco 40

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From top: the interior of Sel de Mer; members of the B.B. King’s All Stars.

dining. The venue itself is beautiful, with silvery wallpaper and silk kimonos displayed outside in glass cases. We drooled over satay, Thai scallops, a superb red chicken curry and wasabi and soy-encrusted tenderloin.

Rudi’s Sel de Mer, a seafood bistro and the signature of the line’s executive culinary director, Rudi Sodamin, has à la carte pricing, so you don’t feel obliged to overeat, and the fish is all fresh. A vast platter of fruits de mer, including lobster tails, is $69 for two.

Pinnacle Grill serves Pacific Northwest-inspired steaks and seafood for $49, although you can have lunch here for just $14.

I was slightly bemused by Club Orange, a new sort of upgraded experience for $70 per person per day, unless you’re in one of the top suites, in which case it’s included. This buys you access to an exclusive restaurant offering an expanded version of the main dining room menu. Club Orange membership comes with sundry other perks, like priority tender embarkation, priority for shore excursion booking and Guest Services access – but I’m not convinced it’s worth it.

Cabins are smart-looking, with several touches that put Nieuw Statendam firmly into the ‘premium’ category: waffle bathrobes, Elemis bath goodies (in eco-friendly re-fillable containers), a huge TV with

SHIP REVIEW: NIEUW STATENDAM

Allocate a good half day to exploring the art; treat it as you would a museum in port.” a wide choice of video on demand, USB charging slots and in 912 of the 1,339 cabins and suites, a deep balcony with two loungers. There are 32 family cabins, accommodating up to five, with two bathrooms, and 12 cabins dedicated to solo cruisers. The top suites share a private lounge with concierge service – but there’s no feeling, as you get on some newer ships, of a two-class system. Everybody has access to all of the outside decks, for example.

During the day, there’s plenty to do. I’d allocate a good half day to exploring the art; treat it as you would a top museum in port, either on a self-guided tour or with one of the art concierges. The gallery on board, ArtLink is refreshing, too; while many ships insist on continuing the tradition of tacky art auctions, ArtLink sells affordable work by up-and-coming artists based in the destinations the ship visits.

Otherwise, there are lectures, cookery demos, basketball hoops and flower-arranging classes, plus kids’ clubs for up to age 17. For something different,

Above: the hydro pool in the Greenhouse spa.

Below: the main atrium.

you can have a go at creating your own wine in Blend, run by Washington State winery Chateau Ste. Michelle, for $110 per person or $140 per couple.

There are two pools, the main Lido pool, with a retractable roof (handy for those cooler days when the ship will be sailing in Northern Europe) and the aft Sea View pool, which tends to be quieter. On a hot weather cruise, I’d splurge for at least one day on one of the smart private cabanas, at $89, with luxurious loungers, towels, bathrobes, chilled water, lunch and treats like a glass of sparkling wine, chocolate-dipped strawberries and ice cream. Yet more indulgence, in other words – but worth it.

THE VERDICT HIGHS: Superb musical entertainment; exceptionally good food in both the included and alternative venues.

LOWS: Club Orange upgrade concept does not seem to represent good value. Shore excursions are good, but expensive.

BEST SUITED TO: Lovers of music and food; families; anybody looking for a classic, elegant ship but not wanting to sacrifice lively entertainment.

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THE MEDITERRANEAN

T H E

M E D I T E R R A N E A N

HEAD FOR THE MED Ancient history, enchanting scenery, incredible cuisine, outrageous glamour – the Mediterranean has it all. Sue Bryant picks her top 10 destinations.

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THE MEDITERRANEAN: OVERVIEW

POSTCARD FROM THE MED You’re spoilt for choice when you go to book a cruise on these azure waters.

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THE MEDITERRANEAN: OVERVIEW

But if you’ve been before, there are many more off-the-beaten-track options on smaller ships, perhaps exploring one favourite area in greater detail. So you could sail the smaller Greek islands on a round-trip from Athens, visiting hippie Hydra, hiking in the mountains on Crete, or wandering around Monemvasia, a medieval town clinging dramatically to a cliff in the Peloponnese.

Other routes meander along the coast of Croatia, all sleepy, terracotta-roofed villages, sun-bleached islands, rocky beaches and gin-clear water. You could live la dolce vita in Italy, too, mingling with the yachties in chic Portofino; or cooling off with a limoncello granita in the Piazzetta, the main square on pretty Capri; or sailing the Aeolian Islands off the coast of Sicily, stopping after dark to watch Stromboli spewing molten lava into the sea.

This is cruising at its best; a stress-free segue from one culture to the next in a reasonably short space of time.”

W

hether you’re hoping to embark on a cultural odyssey through the cradle of European civilization, sip Aperol in a rooftop bar overlooking Venice’s Grand Canal, or simply tuck into mezze and a chilled retsina with your toes in the sand on a Greek island beach, this is the place.

What’s so good about the Mediterranean is that all these extraordinary experiences can be linked in one seamless itinerary. This is cruising at its best; a stress-free segue

from one culture to the next in a reasonably short space of time. In a week, for instance, you could explore Venice, Dubrovnik, Mykonos, Santorini and Athens or, in the Western Mediterranean, Barcelona, Marseilles, Naples and Rome. Plenty of cruise lines and ships offer these routes and some even combine the two sailing areas together. You could, for example, do Venice to Barcelona in 10 nights, visiting the hotspots of Croatia, Italy, France’s Côte d’Azur and Spain.

Some ships cruise the Balearics, overnighting in the elegant old city of Palma, capital of Mallorca, and dropping in on mystical Ibiza, world-famous for its nightlife but studded with prehistoric temples, too.

Others depart from Malaga, gateway to Granada and the Alhambra palace, or sultry Seville, home of flamenco. Some head to the far-eastern corner of the Med, stopping at the busy Turkish resort of Kusadasi for the dazzling antiquities at Ephesus, one of the most important ports in the Roman world, or even Ashdod, jumping-off point for the fantastic food and art scene in Tel Aviv and the religious treasures of Jerusalem.

A word about when to visit: April to June is gorgeous, with wildflowers in bloom and everyone gearing up for the summer season.

September and October are hot and sunny – and the sea is still warm enough for swimming. July and August are European school holidays, so avoid unless you’re comfortable with crowds. There’s a growing trend now for winter cruising, which is a breath of fresh air if you’re there for the culture rather than the sunshine, as museums and galleries are empty.

Whenever and wherever you choose, these are 10 of our favourite ports. cruisepassenger.com.au

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THE MEDITERRANEAN: TOP 10 PORTS

/ Barcelona ■ The Catalonian capital bursts with energy and attitude; its art, architecture and sheer cool unrivalled. Top sights include Gaudí’s wavy modernista architecture, all colourful, organic forms and intricate mosaics, the highlight being the dazzling Sagrada Família basilica (book ahead to avoid the queues). The outstanding Picasso Museum is housed in a medieval mansion in the tangle of the Gothic Quarter, while La Boqueria on the famous Las Ramblas boulevard is one of Europe’s most colourful markets.

Pack a picnic and head to La Barceloneta, a former fishermen’s quarter, for tapas on the boardwalk and a lazy afternoon of peoplewatching on the beach.

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One of Gaudí’s masterpieces, Parc Güell.

THE MEDITERRANEAN: TOP 10 PORTS

/ Monaco ■ The tiny Principality of Monaco oozes glamour, whether you’ve arrived for the Grand Prix, to rub shoulders with oligarchs, or simply to ogle the gin palaces crammed into the port. Grab a ringside seat at the Café de Paris Monte-Carlo – a tourist trap but worth the overpriced coffee for the view – and watch Ferraris and Lamborghinis cruising Casino Square. Otherwise, you could join a tour of Prince Albert’s palace, visit the superb Oceanographic Museum or sniff the blooms in the lovely Princess Grace Rose Garden.

If you want to hit the ornate Casino de Monte-Carlo, bring your passport – and dress the part.

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The stunning location of the Oceanographic Museum in Monaco-Ville.

THE MEDITERRANEAN: TOP 10 PORTS

Gondolas and carnival dress in Venice.

/ Venice ■ Mist-shrouded, moody La Serenissima is a glorious sight, its crumbling palaces a backdrop to the bustle of life lived entirely on the water. Take a gondola ride along the Grand Canal as the evening sun reflects off the ochre and sienna facades. Join a shore excursion to skip the lines for St Mark’s Basilica and the renaissance Doge’s Palace, Casanova’s one-time prison. For the best view over the city (it’s free, too), take the No. 2 vaporetto (water bus) across to San Giorgio Maggiore church and climb the bell tower. Otherwise, just walk, and lose yourself in a dreamy world of silent, greeny-blue canals and walled, wisteriadraped gardens.

The seaside town of SaintTropez in the French Riviera.

/ Saint-Tropez ■ At first glance, the pretty Provençal port of Saint-Tropez might be all about the superyachts and smart restaurants clustered around the harbour. But go deeper and you’ll discover a typical, if prosperous, French seaside town. Watch locals playing petanque under the plane trees on Place des Lices, or shop for cheese, giant peaches and juicy olives at the market on Tuesdays or Saturdays. Try a tarte Tropézienne, an orange-blossom flavoured brioche filled with custard, named by Brigitte Bardot, no less, or drop in at Rondini on Rue Georges Clemenceau for a pair of original, hand-made leather Tropézienne sandals – perfect for a summer cruise.

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THE MEDITERRANEAN: TOP 10 PORTS

The old port of Dubrovnik in Croatia.

/ Dubrovnik ■ Dramatic Dubrovnik basks on a promontory in the sparkling Adriatic, encircled by massive ramparts. Time your stroll around these for early morning, or just before sunset, for the softest light. For even better views over the rooftops, take the cable car up Mount Srd. If you’re interested in the Balkans conflict, the Homeland War Museum here tells the tragic story. Within Stari Grad, the old town, explore the Rector’s Palace, or shop for hand-made cosmetics in the Dominican Monastery. On a hot day, though, there’s only one thing for it – join the locals on the ferry to Lokrum Island, 15 minutes away, to swim and bask on the pine-shaded rocks.

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THE MEDITERRANEAN: TOP 10 PORTS

/ Santorini ■ Santorini earns its bucket-list status on the strength of pure drama: a semicircle of sheer black, volcanic cliffs towering over a sparkling navy sea, their tops sprinkled with sugar-cube houses and those iconic blue-domed churches. You’ll dock just below Fira, the glitzy little capital, with the option of ascending the 400-metre cliffs by cable car, braving a donkey ride or hiking up the zig-zag path. Along the coast, boho-chic Oia has even better views and some great cafés serving organic Greek specialities. A lot of ships overnight anchor off Santorini, as the sunsets are legendary. Take up position in a clifftop bar with a cocktail (eye-wateringly expensive, but you’re paying for the view) and wait for the sky to turn fiery red.

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Whitewashed houses line the cliffs of Santorini.

THE MEDITERRANEAN: TOP 10 PORTS

/ Valletta ■ Malta’s capital is a warren of alleyways and palaces, mostly constructed in the 16th century by the Knights of St John and defended by towering, honeycoloured walls which glow gold in the sunshine. Brace yourself for Caravaggio’s gruesome work, The Beheading of St John the Baptist, in the dazzlingly ornate St John’s Co-Cathedral, or visit the Grandmaster’s Palace for an insight into the extravagant lifestyles of the knights. Valletta’s military history is extraordinary and the story is told at Fort St Elmo National War Museum, which documents life on this barren, rocky island from the Bronze Age through the Roman Empire to the Second World War.

Taormina’s most beautiful beach, Isola Bella.

Valletta’s local limestone glows in the sunshine.

/ Giardini Naxos ■ The popular seaside resort of Giardini Naxos, where you’ll dock, is the jumping-off point for Taormina, a stately town perched on the hill above the port.

Taormina’s highlight is without doubt the exquisite Teatro Antico, built in the third century BC for gladiatorial contests and almost perfectly preserved, the snow-capped cone of Mount Etna brooding in the distance.

Otherwise, stroll along the elegant Corso Umberto 1, the main thoroughfare, to admire baroque fountains or browse for designer clothes. Most importantly, Taormina is the place to sample the best cannoli in Sicily. This local delicacy, a crispy tube of pastry dough stuffed with creamy ricotta, is decadent and irresistible.

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THE MEDITERRANEAN: TOP 10 PORTS

/ Rome

St Peter’s Basilica viewed across the River Tiber,

■ The extravagantly beautiful Italian capital is one place where a shore excursion really helps, not least because the port, Civitavecchia, is an hour’s drive outside the city. You’ll see the Vatican and the astonishingly vast St Peter’s Basilica, as well as the Colosseum and the Forum, both of which catapult you back in time to blood-soaked gladiatorial battles. Then there’s the 2,000-year-old Pantheon, the ornate Spanish Steps and the baroque Trevi Fountain. Toss in a coin and you’ll return to Rome one day to fit in the rest: Piazza Navona, with its festival vibe, gelato in the serene Villa Borghese gardens and aperitivos in hip Trastevere, for a start.

Split: between the Dalmatian mountains and the Adriatic Sea.

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/ Split ■ Ancient Split, Croatia’s second-largest city, is defined by the sprawling Diocletian’s Palace, a dense labyrinth dating back to the fourth century, today forming the heart of the city. This former military fortress is no museum; its narrow alleys are crammed with bars, shops, market stalls and cafes – and some 3,000 people live here, too.

Outside the palace, Split basks elegantly around a glittering bay, its waterfront Riva promenade packed with restaurants and always teeming with people.

Other diversions include the fine Archaeological Museum and nearby, on the tranquil Marjan Peninsula, a neoclassical villa dedicated to the paintings and sculptures of Croatia’s most famous artist, Ivan Mestrovic.

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THE MEDITERRANEAN: HOW TO EXPLORE

4 ways to sail the Mediterranean One of the most iconic destinations for cruisers, the Mediterranean offers visitors some stunning ports to explore. Whether you’re sailing on a five-mast ship from Windstar Cruises or cruising on one of the world’s largest ships from Royal Caribbean, there are so many ways to experience the Mediterranean. Here are four very different cruise styles for exploring this beautiful region.

1

SAILING Windstar Cruises sails the Mediterranean in some stunning five-mast ships, including the Wind Surf. The 310-guest flagship vessel has 122 deluxe ocean-view staterooms, 31 deluxe ocean-view suites and two deluxe ocean-view bridge suites spread over six decks.

Onboard this beautiful sailing ship, there are several dining options including the AmphorA Restaurant, Stella Bistro and the Yacht Club Sandwich & Espresso Bar. There is also a water-sports platform from which guests can

Windstar Cruises’ sailing ships at Bodrum.

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kayak, swim or snorkel. The ship takes you on some wonderful itineraries, including the Mediterranean Island Hopping Adventure from Barcelona to Athens or an eight-day cruise from Lisbon to Barcelona.

2

SMALL For something intimate and bespoke, lines such as Peregrine and Katarina offer small-ship experiences which take you to some more remote ports. On Peregrine’s Malaga-to-Lisbon itinerary, you’ll visit sites such as Granada, filled with its Moorish

architecture and tapas bars, and Ronda in the Andalusian hills.

Ships like the Harmony V, which accommodates up to 50 people, guarantee an intimate cruise.

Katarina, which is famous for its Dalmatian cruises, also has a range of ships that cater for private charters of up to 100 guests. They’ll take you to the lesser-known parts of this stunning coastline where you can hike and even have a meal with local families.

3

LARGE There are a number of larger cruise lines that sail regularly around the Mediterranean. You’ll find heavy hitters Norwegian Cruise Line, Royal Caribbean, MSC Cruises, Carnival Cruise Line and more have ships which regularly sail in the region. Royal Caribbean has Oasis of the Seas, the first of its Oasis-class ships, sailing on a short cruise from Rome to Barcelona. Europeanowned MSC Cruises has a strong presence in the Mediterranean, with the line sending some of its

newest ships to the region. The MSC Bellissima, which launches this year, will sail to destinations in Italy, Spain and France and boast new-age features such as Zoe the virtual assistant and the MSC Yacht Club, a stunning ship within a ship.

4

LUXURY Arrive in ultra-glamorous ports like Monte Carlo and Monaco aboard stunning ships from Crystal Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, Seabourn and Silversea.

“The world’s most luxurious cruise ship”, the Seven Seas Splendor, will sail the French Riviera and the Greek islands.

The ship boasts the largest and most luxurious suite at sea, with a US$200,000 ($280,000) bed and its own private spa. Crystal Cruises has recently refurbished its ships and you can sail on an Athens round-trip itinerary visiting Cyprus, Rhodes, Crete, Santorini and Mykonos on the chic Crystal Serenity. You’ll dine at gourmet restaurants curated by chefs like Nobu Matsuhisa.

ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA) MONTE CARLO PROVENCE (MARSEILLE)•

BARCELONA •

•

PALMA DE MALLORCA

VENICE

•• KOPER • SPLIT • •

•

AMALFI/

• POSITANO

•

VALLETTA

NIGHTS

29 JULY

11

DEPART 2019

NIGHTS

08 SEPT

8

SORRENTO/ CAPRI

• ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA)

CATANIA (SICILY) •

DEPART 2019

ATHENS (PIRAEUS)

NAUPLION •

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• EPHESUS (KUSADASI) • SANTORINI

ADVERTORIAL: KATARINA

Cruise Croatia This small European nation is best explored – by land or sea – on a bespoke, small-group tour.

K

atarina Line is the leading Croatian tour operator and the premier small-ship cruise company in the region. They offer guaranteed weekly departures from the end of April to mid-October from the major tourist centres of Opatija in the Kvarner Riviera, and Split and Dubrovnik in Dalmatia.

With a fleet of more than 60 ships, the cruise line caters to all ages and budgets with itineraries that give travellers the opportunity to explore the stunning natural environment and historical, quaint Mediterranean towns, while hopping from one island to another.

This unique way of travelling and exploring coastal towns is the most popular and the easiest way to experience Croatia at its best.

In addition to cruises, Katarina Line provides excellent land

programs in modern coaches. The most popular small-group tour is the Croatian Rhapsody itinerary starting in Croatia’s capital, Zagreb, and visiting Opatija and the Kvarner area, before heading to Dubrovnik in the south. This unique gastronomy and wine lovers’ experience is undoubtedly the best way to see Croatia from top to toe.

Katarina Line also offers a wide range of accommodation options across Croatia and also in neighbouring countries, and provides excellent shore excursions to its cruise passengers.

With 27 years of experience, the team of dedicated travel professionals provides impeccable service and expertise, and is continuously updating and developing unique tours of both the land and the sea.

CRUISE HIGHLIGHTS

Top: Opatija port is a favourite stop.

Above: The island of Hvar. Below: Golden Horn on the island of Brač.

Hidden gems Witness spectacular coastlines and natural landscapes as you explore the many hidden islands and bays that decorate the Croatian coast.

Historic sites Discover the cultural and historical highlights of Croatia.

On your Katarina Line cruise, you will experience centuriesold palaces and incredible islands as you make your way along this stunning coastline.

Intimate experiences Katarina Line is a small-ship cruise line, specialising in small group travel on intimate luxury vessels that give passengers a more bespoke experience.

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CRUISE PLUS: DESTINATION INDIA

I N D I A

BOLLYWOOD’S BOUNTY With its glorious rivers, amazing coasts and fascinating culture and wildlife, India is poised to explode as a cruise destination.

Teresa Ooi reports.

A houseboat plying the waters in Kerala.

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CRUISE PLUS: DESTINATION INDIA

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CRUISE PLUS: INDIA DESTINATION

f

ive years ago, a Bollywood movie about a romance in the Mediterranean turned Indians into cruise fans.

Up until now, they have mostly done fly-cruises around Singapore and Europe, but India is now developing its very own cruise industry.

The world’s second-most populous nation has enormous potential for both river and ocean journeys, and its reputation as an exotic, historic and spiritual destination is set to catapult India onto cruise itineraries.

As far as ocean journeys go, Costa already sails to and from India, and Royal Caribbean International is bringing two of its ships, Spectrum of the Seas and Explorer of the Seas, to India’s shores in 2019. Example itineraries include five nights Dubai to Mumbai, nine nights Mumbai to Singapore and seven nights Maldives to Mumbai.

Seabourn also offers a choice of luxurious Indian cruises where passengers can immerse themselves in the local culture, interact with the locals, see homes and walk through rural communities around Mumbai, Kochi and Vaikom.

And this year, India will actually get its own cruise brand – sailing a ship very familiar to Australians. Zen Cruises bought Pacific Jewel from P&O Australia in 2018, and

intends to develop local itineraries, with its first sailing scheduled for May. River cruising has also seen enormous growth, with some of the best-known global names sailing the Ganges.

With strong demand for river cruising, developing the infrastructure for it seems like a sure-fire way to build tourist numbers in the country.

Pandaw, which first offered river expeditions in India a decade ago, is moving more ships into the area, after success in remote areas like Myanmar. The line is expanding its fleet on the Ganges River, with Katha joining Kalaw earlier this year, and Kindat due later this year.

Pandaw will also add sailings on the mighty Brahmaputra River in Assam in 2020. Their itinerary will rival the existing one from local ship Mahabaahu, which currently offers a seven-night cruise on the Brahmaputra from Guwahati to Jorhat, including a safari on elephant back to spot the one-horned rhinoceros and Indian tiger in UNESCO-listed wildlife sanctuary Kaziranga National Park.

Avalon Waterways has also recently launched a new itinerary on the Ganges, a six-day round trip from Kolkata, visiting tiny towns in the north to explore how human life is connected to the holy river; visiting muslin

FACT FILE India is a spectacular and spiritual cruise destination. On land, you’ll be bombarded by colour, culture and chaos to stimulate all the senses, but you’ll always have an onboard bolt-hole to escape the traffic, crowds and fumes. / Top places to cruise Mainland India has about 5,000 kilometres of coastline and most ocean-going cruise ships will call at the mesmerising city of Mumbai; Mormugao, the main port of party-loving Goa; Kochi, the gateway to Kerala; and Chennai, the main port of the south.

For river cruises, you can choose to sail on the sacred Ganges River, the mighty Brahmaputra River or the backwaters of Kerala. / What to see On an ocean cruise, immerse yourself in the bustling coastal cities, as well as the majestic interior cities of Jaipur, Jodhpur and Agra on excursions.

On the Ganges, you’ll see India’s most holy city, Varanasi, temples, goldsmiths, Mother Teresa’s home, teeming city life and remote villages. On Brahmaputra cruises, you’ll be amazed by India’s wildlife – a highlight is a safari on elephant at Kaziranga National Park. In sleepy Kerala, you’ll float past untamed jungle and tiny rural farms.

The sacred Ganges.

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CRUISE PLUS: DESTINATION INDIA

Traditional Kathakali dance on New Year carnival in Kochi.

weavers in Kalna, candy makers in Matiari and tea plantations at Azimgani and Jiagani.

The 54-passenger ship is already 75 per cent sold, largely to holiday makers from the US, Canada, Australia and the UK. A total of 139 cruise ships carrying 162,660 passengers visited India in 2017-18 at six major ports – Mumbai, Mormugao, New Mangaluru, Kochi, Chennai and Kolkata.

Historically, Mumbai has been the hub of cruise tourism in the country, and Costa Cruises homeported there three years ago.

This year also expects to see calls from most major lines, including Azamara, Costa Cruises, Holland America Line, Crystal Cruises and Silversea Cruises.

Mormugao is the main cruise port of tourist-friendly Goa and lines such as Seven Seas Voyages, Royal Caribbean and MSC 66

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India’s reputation as an exotic, historic and spiritual destination is set to catapult it onto cruise itineraries.” visit regularly. Kochi, near the southern tip of India, is another popular port, with lines such as Princess Cruises, Costa, MSC, Norwegian Cruise Lines and Royal Caribbean calling there. Mangaluru, in the southwest, plays host to lines such as Celebrity, NCL and Aida.

India is loving the attention from cruisers, and they are pouring money and energy into developing their infrastructure.

“At Kochi, we have built an exclusive terminal for cruise tourists. At Mormugao, Goa, we have a three-storey cruise terminal and at Mangaluru, we are creating a cruise lounge and putting up facilities for customs and immigration and port health, and even a money exchange to cater to cruise traffic.

We have 65 similar counters at Chennai,” said Asbhishek Chandra, deputy secretary, Ministry of Shipping.

Now there are plans to develop more ports such as Porbandar and Kandla on the west coast and Visakhapatnam and Paradip on the east coast. Drawing on the origin of Buddha in India, the government is also promoting the Buddhism circuit, a strong lure for Asian tourists, particularly the Japanese and Koreans But unlocking India’s potential as a cruise destination for residents isn’t as easy as promoting it to foreigners. More than 26 million Indians travelled overseas in 2017, but less than 150,000 of those went on a cruise, and most Indians who do cruise still prefer to fly to Singapore to board a cruise ship than embark at a port closer to home. The industry is now looking to grow numbers locally and develop this largely untapped but relatively small cruise source market.

CELEBRITY CHEF LUKE NGUYEN HAS BEEN ELEVATING VIETNAM’S CULINARY ARTS ON VIETNAM AIRLINES’ FLIGHTS? THE WORLD IS CHANGING. ARE YOU? Let’s enjoy the authentic Vietnamese cuisine to the fullest while being up to 35.000 feet above the ground, served by the heart of Luke Nguyen the Global Cuisine Ambassador of Vietnam Airlines.

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CRUISE PLUS: MV MAHABAAHU

Peter Lynch takes an Indian river cruise in search of the famed Bengal tiger.

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here are many dilemmas facing today’s traveller: Is my footprint light enough? Are local people benefitting from my visit? Am I respecting the culture?

So perhaps it isn’t so surprising, as we drive towards Kaziranga National Park at 5am, that someone asks: “How will I know if my elephant is well cared for?”

We’d travelled hundreds of kilometres and endured a white-knuckled road trip to get this far before sunrise for an elephant safari through the long grass. But for today’s traveller with a conscience, it’s a fair question. Google “Should I ride an elephant?” and you’ll find literally hundreds of posts arguing the toss.

We quiz our mahout relentlessly. We are encouraged by the fact that this is a World Heritage Site, and our female elephant only works two hours a day before the sun gets hot.

Welcome to adventure cruising in remote India, a journey that assails us with fresh conundrums every day.

We’re sailing up the mighty Brahmaputra River like true explorers. Some 200 metres ahead, a wooden boat acts as our pilot. A man on the bows dips a long pole into the murky waters to ensure there is enough depth for MV Mahabaahu to proceed.

At one point we have to stop to empty the swimming pool so we can pass over a sand bar.

We make it with millimetres to spare.

We’re about as far from India’s bustling, traffic-clogged and polluted cities as we can get.

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We’ve flown from Kolkata, a metropolis bursting with humanity, to a place known as The Chicken’s Neck. This narrow strip of land in the northeastern state of Assam is sandwiched between Bengal, Nepal and India.

The area is “politically sensitive” and patrolled by the Bengal Rifles Brigade.

It’s home to one of India’s best kept secrets – an astonishing array of wildlife. There are deer, hogs, leopard cats, otters, wild boar, jackals, eagles, buzzards and kites.

It’s the last refuge of the one-horned rhino, a beast so heavily hunted by poachers eager to please mainland China’s appetite for its horn that they risk being shot on sight.

It’s also where you can find the Bengal tiger in the wild. Even the chance of a sighting brings thousands of tourists from across the globe to catch a glimpse of this mighty beast.

Mahabaahu is one of only two ships that make the trek from Guwahati to Kaziranga National Park, a 430-square-kilometre UNESCO World Heritage site. She is also the biggest. As we make our stately way up the Brahmaputra, scores of villagers run to the banks, yelling and waving at the unusual sight. Waving back, we feel a little like the Queen of England, or a Bollywood movie star. Later, we discover they are yelling “Goodbye!” Do they know something we don’t?

Our ship is a hybrid. Built in 2011 by an Indian yard which only had plans for sea-going vessels, her peculiar features include watertight steel doors on its balcony cabins (they are on deck four, and if you’re that far down the doors won’t help at all).

She has a spa deck for Ayurvedic treatments, which are medically based and, in the words of one reviewer, feature “access all areas”. It’s serious business, though the staff are happy to tailor their treatments to your needs.

Mahabaahu with the Himalayas in the background.

Left: the crew checks the water depth is safe for the boat.

CRUISE PLUS: MV MAHABAAHU

Tiger tales

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Adventure Resorts and Cruises VESSEL: MV Mahabaahu STAR RATING: 3.5 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 46 TOTAL CREW: 30 PASSENGER DECKS: 5 CABINS: 23 TONNAGE: 47,800 FACILITIES: Spa, sun deck, pool, bar, restaurant, two expedition boats.

BOOKINGS: See cruisetraveller.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: MV MAHABAAHU We raft up on a sandbank and make a fire. The crew have lighted candles on banana leaves that we place in the water with a wish and watch as they gently make their way along the river in the current. It’s magical.

But all of this is but a prelude to the main game.

We’ve come here for a safari, and after four days of jute mills, villages and traditional dancing in tea plantations, we’re ready for the grand finale.

It’s 3:30am and 10 degrees. But it doesn’t matter. The excitement is palpable. We sip masala tea and check our cameras. Is this the day of the big cats? We’re hopeful of a sighting, and apparently there was one yesterday (though we learn later there always is one ‘yesterday’).

Mayresh Hendre, a 21-year-old former Mumbai advertising executive who gave it up to focus on wildlife photography, assures us the elephant safari is approved and that the elephants are well cared for.

“Sometimes, if you drop something like your camera, the elephant will pick it up and return it to you,” he says.

If you drop something, the elephant will pick it up and return it tor you.”

There is a small pool and – best of all – a large sun deck where you can while away your afternoons peering through binoculars at the ever-changing scenery on the banks, looking for wildlife, or waving at the incredibly excited villagers.

Our young, obliging chef is strongest at three dishes: river fish, chicken and goat. These ingredients are served with relentless regularity using different curried sauces each day. There is always at least one western choice.

There is a single dining room – the Mungri Mungram.

Dinner is a five-course affair, and our cruise director mixes guests cunningly so everyone quickly finds like-minded companions to chat with over meals.

The passengers are a typically mixed bunch. Six Canadians, three Singaporeans, two Australians, two British couples, two Indian lawyers and the owner of a biomedicine business.

Mahabaahu is every inch an Indian river ship. If you like cultural immersion – an on-trend phrase that can mean anything from a visit to a local home to a performance by a dance troupe – this is for you. It’s Little India on the waterways.

We visit charming but dirt-poor villages where children greet us with “Hello” and then shyly ask us to shake hands – no doubt the work of a local English teacher who trained in London. They really only want us to take their pictures on our smartphones, and they giggle and pose until we agree.

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Above: traditional dancers in Assam.

Below: a group of children in a village.

It’s a 90-minute drive to Kaziranga. And in those 90 minutes, every mad story you’ve ever heard about Indian roads is confirmed. We overtake on blind bends, and at the prow of a hill. We spend what seems like most of the trip on the wrong side of the road. We tighten our seat belts and try not to look.

Relieved, we arrive at a hotel and have more fortifying masala tea, before heading out just before dawn to the elephants.

The magnificent beasts wear copious saddles, and you mount them from a specially-constructed tower.

Couples ride together with a mahout and a guard, who wields an enormous shotgun loaded with blank cartridges.

CRUISE PLUS: MV MAHABAAHU

Above: an elephant safari in Kaziranga National Park.

Our elephant, a beautiful creature, brings along three calves. And as we gently stroll through the long grass, she stops occasionally to pull some choice stems and feed her brood.

Our mahout has been riding elephants since he was 12, and it is hard not to feel there is a bond between him and these mighty beasts.

Suddenly, there is our first sighting: a single-horned rhino having an early morning snack in the grass. At a huge 2,100 kilograms – you can only imagine how much grass he needs – the rhinoceros unicornis is a solitary animal. Hunted almost to extinction, they have been saved thanks to the Indian government and UNESCO financing parks like Kaziranga.

On our hour-long safari, we see many rhinos, along with deer, buffalo and birds. Though our mahout speaks little English, his excited pointing has us scurrying to our guide books to identify the next creature.

And the tigers? Well, with 12 mighty elephants and two dozen tourists ploughing through the park, perhaps they could be forgiven for remaining hidden.

Disembarking at the mounting towers, we all agreed we had just had the most exciting and memorable 60 minutes of our lives, and though we took a second safari in a jeep, it just didn’t have the same magic.

Our seven nights aboard Mahabaahu were an extraordinary learning experience, and our pictures armed us for many dinner parties to come.

The Brahmaputra is a fascinating river. The people in this northern enclave, who move homes each spring when the Himalayas snow melts and the river floods, show enormous resilience.

During the devastating 2017 floods, 41 million people in the region were affected, with more than a thousand lives lost, and homes, schools and other infrastructure destroyed.

Why do they keep coming back for more? The annual floods bring a reward: here lies some of most fertile soil in India.

THE VERDICT HIGHS: Our safari was a truly memorable experience – even if we didn’t spot the big cat! You’ll feel like a true explorer, as there are still only a few international travellers who venture this far.

LOWS: Eccentric, peculiar and very Indian, Mahabaahu is advertised online as five star. But, as our tour director conceded, this is not correct. Its wood-lined cabins and food put it into the 3.5 star category. And while Captain’s Choice uses her, she is proudly an adventure ship where the destination IS the destination.

BEST SUITED TO: Adventure loving couples and solo travellers with an independent streak.

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CRUISE PLUS: OKINAWA

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he 160 islands that make up the prefecture of Okinawa, at the southern tip of Japan, are known for their picture-perfect beaches. But they are also home to an extraordinary amount of wildlife, spectacular food and unlimited adventure.

A firm favourite among cruise lines, with 528 port calls last year, island ports such as Hirara on Miyako Island, Ishigaki, and Iriomote are drawing travellers in increasing numbers.

About 1.4 million people live on 49 of the 160 islands, the largest of which is Okinawa Island. It’s an extraordinary place, with several World Heritage sites including the famous Shuri Castle in the prefectural capital city of Naha, and emerald waters that are home to some of the world’s most colourful sea life. For many, this is the first and last stop on 72

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THE ISLANDS TIME FORGOT Untouched nature and unique culture abound on Okinawa’s outlying islands. Teresa Ooi explores.

CRUISE PLUS: OKINAWA

Left: Kabira Bay, Ishigaki.

Above: Shuri Castle.

Below: the unique glass and pottery fusion of Ishigakiyaki Pottery Studio.

by is Yoshino Beach, known as a nesting ground of sea turtles, which can be seen swimming at high tide.

Then there’s Sunayama Beach, about four kilometres from Hirara Port, which lies at the bottom of a large sand dune and features a photogenic rock arch. If you have time for only one lazy beach day, make it here.

For a change of scenery, head to the southeastern tip of Miyako where you will find Higashi Hennazaki Cape, a narrow, jagged limestone outcrop that stretches for two kilometres, which has been designated a national Place of Scenic Beauty. The solitary white lighthouse at the far end offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the cobalt sea during the day, and the bright stars at night.

Miyako Island has a population of about 55,000, but many wealthy Japanese from the mainland have second homes on the island, attracted by its rich nature, warm people and championship golf courses on Miyako where golf lovers can enjoy the sport all year round.

Irabu Ohashi, the longest toll-free bridge in Japan stretching for 3540 metres, connects Miyako Island to nearby Irabu Island.

Miyako also produces the most mangoes in Japan – they’re fresh and cheap on the island, and be sure to try the delicious mango ice cream. Also don’t miss the Miyako beef, a tender beef only available in Okinawa, and yukishio, a sand-like salt extracted from the seawater around Miyako.

their Okinawan trip. But leave the central hub of Okinawa Island and you’ll find the outer islands have plenty more to offer. / MIYAKO ISLAND Located about 300 kilometres southwest of Naha, Miyako Island has some of the best coral reefs in Okinawa, and the water surrounding Miyako Island is the clearest in Okinawa, attracting divers from all over the world.

The weather is perfect for beaches all year round and the most famous is Yonaha Maehama, a sevenkilometre stretch of sand offering water sports and a prime spot from which to view the sunset.

On the eastern side of the island, there’s Aragusuku Beach where the waters are rich in clownfish, and close cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: OKINAWA and the 400-year-old mangrove tree with its fascinating intricate roots.

/ IRIOMOTE ISLAND Iriomote Island is one of the hottest destinations in the region for nature lovers and hikers. It is one of Japan’s least-touched natural environments, more than 90 per cent covered by thick tropical rainforests and mangrove swamps.

The two most popular places are the iconic Pinaisara Waterfall and the Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park. At 55 metres high, Pinaisara – meaning Old Man’s Beard in the local dialect – is the tallest waterfall in Okinawa, and it can be accessed by kayaking through mangroves and trekking the rest of the way to the base of the falls.

The Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park is a welltrodden hiking spot because of its virgin subtropical forest, mangroves, rivers and waterfalls. Follow the popular trail along the Urauchi River, the longest in Okinawa and home to about 400 species of fish.

Along the way, you may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the rare Iriomote wildcat, an endangered species indigenous to the island.

On the other side of the island, you can take a boat cruise on the Nakama River, the second longest in Okinawa, to view the endangered mangrove swamps

A bullock cart ride around Iriomote Island.

/ ISHIGAKI ISLAND Ishigaki Island is the prefecture’s third largest. It is about 400 kilometres south of Okinawa Island, an hour’s flight from Naha.

Divers must check out the island’s famed manta rays, which congregate in large numbers around Manta Scramble near Kabira Bay, and the island also offers flyboarding and deep-sea fishing.

Yonehara Beach, one of the nicest on the island, offers some of the best snorkelling around the white coral reef abundant with fish and other marine life.

For a change from your beach days, a visit to the Ishigaki Yaima Mura theme park is a fascinating look at traditional architecture from around the island, as well as the chance to try Okinawan crafts, clothing and music, and spot squirrel monkeys. Or visit the internationally famous Ishigaki-yaki Pottery Studio, which sells some of the most exquisite pottery in the world and has had pieces exhibited in the British Museum. It’s a unique fusion of clay and glass, a style of pottery making that was passed down to renowned artist Kaneko Haruhiko.

Ishigaki also has a number of options for the more active traveller. Hike to Maetake, a rainforest hideout located in the northeastern part of the island. The walking trails are well maintained even if you are a hiking newbie. You can also take a kayak tour of the mangrove-lined Miyara River, not far from the city.

Finish your trip with a visit to the Tamatorizaki Observation Point with its abundance of hibiscus flowers for views of the island’s hilly northern peninsula and bright blue ocean – a shining example of the lure of Okinawa.

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CRUISE PLUS: NEW ZEALAND

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CRUISE PLUS: NEW ZEALAND

Princess Cruises’ immersive new program in New Zealand is eye opening for Teresa Ooi.

A STAR IS BORN

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The telescope in use on the night sky at Great Barrier Island.

Photograph by Mark Russell

t’s only a 30-minute flight on a light plane, but you might be going to another world. We are travelling from Auckland to the remote Great Barrier Island, one of only four Dark Sky Sanctuaries in the world, to star gaze.

Only 1,000 people live on this eco-friendly island, which is powered almost entirely by solar energy (with generators for back up).

The island’s remoteness has given rise to a rich array of fauna, flora and native bush, and the residents are determined to protect it.

Here everyone knows one another, doors and cars are unlocked, neighbours swap bread for fruit and the local school is run by volunteers. There are no streetlights, no traffic lights and no pedestrian crossings.

More than three quarters of the island is covered in native bush, making it a haven for birds, including the dotterel, oystercatcher, kaka (parrot) and the threatened pateke (brown teal).

However, it is when darkness falls that Great Barrier Island comes into its own.

Its night sky, unpolluted by electric light, is one of the clearest and brightest on the planet, and as astro-tourism becomes increasingly popular, Great Barrier Island is really having a moment.

Our visit to Great Barrier Island is an extended shore excursion, part of Princess’s new Across the Ditch program. After flying from Auckland and seeing a bit of the island, in the evening, our little cluster of cruisers gather on the outdoor veranda of Trillium

Lodge to gaze at the heavens. No artificial light, candles or mobile phones are allowed.

It is magical. Millions of stars twinkle bright and clear, and the planets seem close enough to touch.

Satellites zip by and meteors shoot across the dark sky. With the help of Deborah Kilgallon, founder of Dark Sky experience Good Heavens, we spot the sparkling open cluster of Matariki (Pleiades to the ancient Greeks); the sky’s brightest star, Sirius; and Canopus, the hot, white giant star, many thousands of times more luminous than the sun. In the telescope, we watch clouds of gas and dust where new stars are being born. We spot the Milky Way, the Southern Cross, blue stars, red stars, and Omega Centauri, which contains millions of stars including some of the oldest in the galaxy, estimated to be 10-12 billion years old. Deborah regales us with fascinating stories of Maori legends about the night sky.

After three hours of this, we are given a cup of hot chocolate to ward off the night chill and watch the clouds gently drift by obscuring some of the wonders that have kept us enthralled.

The Dark Sky Sanctuary experience is transforming Princess Cruises Across the Ditch excursions. The line, which carries a quarter of Australians who cross the Tasman, will offer up to 20 exclusive and immersive experiences to make it as much about what’s on shore as what’s on their ships. cruisepassenger.com.au

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The Across the Ditch program touches the very heart of New Zealand in a way that appeals to today’s travellers.”

We fly back to Auckland where we board Majestic Princess and suddenly, we are thrown back into the bright lights and fine dining of cruise life.

The next morning Majestic arrives at Tauranga and we drive to Rotorua to vist Te Puia and learn about Maori culture, then visit a school where talented Maori students are taught the ancient art of wood carving.

We enjoy a hangi lunch of prawns, green-lipped mussels and eggs cooked in an underground pool.

The food is wrapped in flax baskets and quickly lowered into the boiling water; it all comes up perfectly cooked.

Nearby, we watch the steaming Pohutu Geyser as she hisses away and twice an hour shoots steam up to 30 metres into the air.

We then drive to a kiwi fruit orchard in the Bay of Plenty, which produces 80 per cent of all the kiwi fruit in the country thanks to its rich volcanic soil, plentiful rainfall and winter frost.

We taste fresh fruit, both green and gold, as well as kiwi ice cream, juices, and relish. It’s delicious – no wonder New Zealand is known for having the best and sweetest kiwi fruit in the world.

No visit to Rotorua is complete without a visit to the Comvita Honey facility – one of the country’s leading producers of manuka honey, known for its antibacterial and healing qualities. We taste different manuka honeys – some infused with other flavours – and they are all delicious.

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expectations of shore excursions with adventure, immersion, expedition and food and drink experiences, and it takes a New Zealand cruise to a whole new level.

The next day we arrive in the capital city of Wellington, at the southern tip of the North Island, and are ceremoniously welcomed by the All Blacks at the harbour. The braver among us take selfies with the rugby players.

We head to Te Papa Tongarewa, the bold, innovative and interactive national museum and learn about how the Maori arrived in the country and view the incredible Gallipoli exhibition and the visiting Terracotta Warriors, an amazing showcase of 120 artefacts from Xian, China.

Our next stop is Zealandia, the world’s first fully fenced urban eco-sanctuary where hundreds of birds, frogs, lizards, bats and fish thrive. Here you can spot the vulnerable tieke, hihi, little spotted kiwi and tuatara living safely in the sanctuary.

For a bit of movie-making experience we visit Weta Caves for an immersion into the world of awardwinning films including The Lord of the Rings trilogy, King Kong, The Chronicles of Narnia, Avatar and The Hobbit trilogy, drawing on 27 years of filmmaking experience from special effects expert Richard Taylor.

We end our short visit to Wellington by boarding the iconic red cable car to ride up the steep hills around the city to the beautiful Botanic Garden. A charming ride indeed.

Back on board, we opt for a casual lunch at Majestic Lobster Grill and Noodle Bar on the pool deck. The unanimous choice is lobster cooked in spicy kung pao sauce served with rice – it is so tasty. Breakfasts

Above: Milford Sound; Majestic Princess; a traditional Maori greeting. Right: Akaroa township.

CRUISE PLUS: NEW ZEALAND

and historic buildings, and meet affable local illustrator and author, David Elliot. We then make our way to Port Pantry to sample local delicacies and wash it down with local craft beer at nearby The Portsider.

The next day, Majestic cruises to the Doubtful Sound and Dusty Sound, two of 14 spectacular fiords in the Fiorland National Park. Everyone is gobsmacked by the pristine, unspoilt wilderness of what is often called the Place of Silence. Majestic then makes her way to the spectacular Milford Sound as cameras and mobile phones go into overdrive to capture the sheer cliffs and cascading waterfalls from as high as 1000 metres up.

We have to agree with Rudyard Kipling, who once said it was the eighth wonder of the world.

Princess’s Across the Ditch program touches the very heart of New Zealand in a way that appeals to today’s travellers who are looking for authentic, engaging and cultural immersion in less-visited destinations. onboard are equally good; opt for a buffet with a mountain of choice or slip down to Deck 5 for a cup of specially brewed coffee and some granola topped with yoghurt at the International Café, our favourite meeting place.

Majestic then calls at Akaroa, near Christchurch, and we are taken on a fascinating three-hour cultural adventure by local expert Hollie Hollander to learn the story of the infamous Wairau Affray, in which 22 British settlers died following the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi. We also stop in at the Hinewai Reserve and Wildlife Conservation Project where we learn about the business of sustainable sheep farming in New Zealand.

When Majestic arrives at Dunedin we take a twohour walking tour of the delightful village at Port Chalmers, curated by local expert Louise van de Vliered. We visit cafes, art galleries, artisan food shops cruisepassenger.com.au

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Cruise Calendar 2019 Lines are planning itineraries around major international events and you want to be at all of them.

April / If you’re taking a European river cruise in April, you can paint the town orange during King’s Day in Amsterdam. Celebrating the birthday of King Willem-Alexander of the House of Orange, this citywide celebration consists of a parade of decorated boats on the canal, a huge market, food stalls, live music and locals wearing as much orange as they can.

Because so many river cruises start or end in Amsterdam, it’s a great idea to plan your spring European voyage around this exciting day. This April is also the 70th anniversary of the bulbs in bloom at the nearby Keukenhof botanical garden.

From Mardi Gras in New Orleans to the wicked and twisted Dark Mofo festival in Tasmania, and even parties in medieval castles in Estonia – there are plenty of events and festivals around the world that you can enjoy while on your cruise. Here is our calendar of the best local and international cruise-friendly events this year.

March / The Mardi Gras celebration in New Orleans was started in the early 18th century and is now one of the biggest street festivals in the world. It’s a several-day celebration of the lead-up to Lent with food, music, elaborate floats and brightly coloured costumes with masks. There are a number of cruise lines that sail to New Orleans around this time; lines including Carnival Cruise Line, Norwegian Cruise Line and Royal Caribbean come to town, and Celebrity Cruises spends two nights in port. Or hop aboard American Queen for a cruise down the Mississippi River.

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May / If you’re a rev head, the Monaco Grand Prix, the most glamorous of the Formula One fixtures, has a number of ships sailing to the race so guests can watch all the action, live. SeaDream Yacht Club, Star Clippers, Fred Olsen, Azamara Club Cruises and Crystal Cruises will all have ships docked in Monaco or nearby Nice on the day and will include or help you secure grandstand tickets. Alternatively, the French Open will be played at the same time at Stade Roland-Garros in Paris, which you can then follow up with a river cruise from the City of Love.

CRUISE PLUS: DARK SKY PRINCESS

June / P&O Cruises has a special Sydney-to-Tasmania itinerary for the famous Dark Mofo, a festival of food, music, art, film and light run by Hobart’s Museum of Old and New Art. The cruise includes a ticket to the Winter Feast, two nights in port and admission to MONA. Sports fans can sail dedicated State of Origin cruises to Brisbane or Sydney with some of the great legends of the game and a ticket to the game included. If you’re in Europe, enjoy Russia’s long evenings – known as White Nights – in Saint Petersburg with a dedicated festival of dance and music concerts and light shows on the River Neva.

July / If you’re spending time in the European summer, choose a cruise itinerary that includes Estonia – especially its capital Tallin, where the famous Medieval Festival takes place in early July. Here, you’ll see knights jousting and jesters wandering the streets alongside troubadours, minstrels and jugglers. There are plenty of activities including handicraft workshops and musical performances, as well as plenty of food stalls. There will be a few cruise lines docked nearby, including Holland America, Regent Seven Seas, Costa and Viking Ocean Cruises.

August / Take a cruise to the Edinburgh Fringe Festival for a massive hit of culture, with performers from all over the world doing comedy, theatre, cabaret, dance and opera. During the month of August, there are about 50,000 performances across 300 venues. The festival also includes the annual Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, which takes place outside the city’s castle every day except Sunday for the whole month. Several lines call at Edinburgh’s Port Leith, and Cruise & Maritime Voyages has a Summertime Fjordland voyage which departs from nearby Rosyth.

November / Melbourne Cup is the most glamorous day in Australia’s racing season and Carnival Cruise Line and P&O Cruises each have a ship heading to Melbourne for the big day.

P&O offers itineraries departing Sydney and Brisbane, and Carnival departs Sydney. Onboard, there are racing legends to talk to as well as other activities like hat-making, betting masterclasses, high teas, recovery brunches and fashion shows. P&O’s cruise includes tickets to the race that stops a nation, Carnival also takes you to Kennedy Oaks Day, and both include transfers to and from the venues.

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CRUISE PLUS: HOTEL REVIEW

AH, CAPELLA

CRUISE PASSENGER HOTEL REVIEW

Capella, named for the brightest star in Auriga constellation, is a luxury city escape, finds Teresa Ooi.

Y

ou don’t have to look hard to be reminded why Capella Singapore was recently in the news.

Within the grounds, a giant brass plaque set into the floor shows where Donald Trump had his famous handshake with Kim Jong-un at their summit last year.

But while that did provide this luxury resort with a moment’s fame, in truth, Capella Singapore has plenty more going for it.

On arrival at Capella, we are struck by the understated grandeur of the reception, located in a restored colonial building that used to serve as the officers’ mess of the British Royal Artillery.

Capella is a gorgeous blend of colonial and modern architecture; at the heart of the hotel are two beautifully restored Tanah Merah bungalows dating back to the 1880s, and the rest of the building been designed to sit in harmony with the traditional architecture as it serpentines

in an unbroken curve around the internal garden courtyard.

The hotel is perched on top of a knoll on Sentosa Island, overlooking the South China Sea. A 20-minute drive from Singapore’s city centre, it is a haven away from the bustling metropolis, with gardens and a gate to the public beach.

Our premier sea view suite on the second floor overlooks the lush greenery and sparkling sea. The beautifully appointed room is spacious, decorated in subdued earthy hues and dark wood.

The study and sitting room give way to a large bedroom, with king-sized bed dressed in plush Pratesi bedlinen. The ensuite features double vanities and Aesop toiletries, there are ample wardrobes, a Nepresso machine, fluffy cotton bathrobes, beautiful orchid displays and a balcony with a sun lounge.

The 112 rooms, suites and villas are immersed in 30 acres of luscious

Above: The tanah merah bungalows that form the heart of the hotel.

Left: Living room in a villa.

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landscaped gardens and triple-tiered cascading pool. The 38 villas, usually occupied by families, are spread throughout the gardens and come with outdoor rain showers, private plunge pools and spacious verandas.

One of Capella’s main attractions is the award-winning Auriga spa, where we opt for the PS I Love You treatment for couples.

The 165-minute experience start with a foot bath, a body massage and a facial and ends with a bath in water full of rose petals and lime. Products are organic and made

by Auriga and therapists are skilled.

There is also free use of a herbal steam room, vitality pool and ice fountain, and the relaxation lounge serves one of the best ginger teas we have ever tasted.

Capella has a contemporary Cantonese restaurant, Cassia, located in the traditional wing close to reception. It also has a Chef’s Table, a bespoke home-style kitchen for 20 people that can be booked for private suppers or five-course afternoon tea on weekdays. There’s also a breakfast buffet that include Singaporean specialties or bacon and eggs, and Bob’s Bar for sunset drinks.

We opt for a light dinner at The Knolls, the all-day restaurant overlooking the pool and sea. The Mediterranean menu offers roasted seabass, baked Atlantic cod, Australian wagyu beef tenderloin and Moroccan spiced chicken confit.

You can easily hop on an electric bus to visit Sentosa’s attractions such as Universal Studios, Palawan Beach or the cable car. But with such divine facilities at Capella, why would you want to leave?

Visit capellahotels.com/Singapore.

RUNNING HEAD

Boot Scootin’ Cruisin’ Country music fans are going buck wild for an exciting week-long themed cruise, says Katrina Lobley.

T

o reach the line-dancing class, you strut past a Cruisin’ Country banner: “Save a horse, ride a cruise ship”. The concept seems incongruous, sending country-music fans out to sea rather than to the bush that so often inspires the songs, but it’s proving a winner.

Artists clamour to be part of the line-up for the annual country-music knees-up, which departs Sydney each October for a round-trip

Amber Lawrence when Organisers Choose Your Cruise, Artist Network Australia and Cruiseco take over the 2500-passenger Radiance of the Seas for the week.

Each night, the Aurora Theatre hosts a headliner show at 6pm and 9pm, but you’ll also see the artists at ease all over the ship, grabbing breakfast, sitting with family members in the dining room or splashing

Artists hang at the Schooner Bar, joining their mates onstage for a free-wheeling jam.” cruise to New Caledonia. The destination doesn’t matter as much as the music, which comes from top-notch Australian artists.

Cruisin’ Country 2019, for example, will star Lee Kernaghan, Adam Harvey, Beccy Cole, Gina Jeffreys and regular sassy opening act,

in the sparkling waters of New Caledonia.

You can also chat with them at a formal meet and greet/autograph session where they’re asked to sign everything from a T-shirt the fan is still wearing to battered bush hats and acoustic guitars.

Some artists hang at the Schooner Bar for the last gig of the night, often joining their mates onstage for a free-wheeling jam or cover song. You might also spot a famous face leading a conga line in and around the atrium, another more informal music venue.

Between gigs, passengers join songwriting workshops, square-dancing and clogging classes, participate in the belly-flop comp or try regular ship activities such as the rock-climbing wall. There’s so much to do that, quite frankly, it’s exhausting.

Perhaps the biggest surprise of all is that the fans aren’t what you expect. It turns out there’s a country-music fan inside most of us.

LEE KERNAGHAN ADAM HARVEY - BECCY COLE PLUS MANY MORE OVER 30 ACTS ONBOARD! ABOARD

IS MY LIFE! RECEIVE

UP TO

US$900

RADIANCE OF THE SEAS DEPARTING SYDNEY

LIFOU AND NOUMEA

OCEANVIEW FROM $3,485PP*

BALCONY FROM $3,895PP*

US$700 ONBOARD CREDIT#

US$900 ONBOARD CREDIT#

WELSH BASS-BARITONE

ONBOARD CREDIT PER STATEROOM#

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CONDUCTED BY GARETH JONES PLUS MANY MORE OVER 30 ACTS ONBOARD! ABOARD

RADIANCE OF THE SEAS DEPARTING SYDNEY

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OCEANVIEW FROM $3,690PP*

BALCONY FROM $4,143PP*

US$700 ONBOARD CREDIT#

US$900 ONBOARD CREDIT#

*Prices are per person, cruise only, in AUD, based on lowest available twin share accommodation, inclusive of all savings/discounts, port & government charges, onboard gratuities (excluding onboard purchases), correct as at 19 February 2019. Prices are subject to change and can be withdrawn at any time without notice. Some cabins may have an obstructed view. Available for twin share bookings only. Solo cabins are sold out. Deposits will be 50% within 7 days of booking. #Onboard credit is in US dollars, is per stateroom, has no cash value, is not transferable or redeemable for cash, and must be used by the end of the cruise. Offer is valid until 31 March 2019, is capacity controlled, subject to availability and may be changed or withdrawn at any time without notice. Existing passengers cannot cancel and rebook at this offer. Offers are not combinable. Agents may charge service fees and/or fees for card payments which vary. Cancellation penalties and conditions apply. To be read in conjunction with the full terms and conditions of the Cruising Country 9 & Bravo Cruise of the Performing Arts 2019 brochure.

CRUISE PLUS: FOOD

Steaks at sea Vanessa Wu sinks her teeth into the best onboard steakhouses.

For carnivorous cruisers, a steakhouse is an essential part of a line’s food offerings, and a staple in the line-up of many ships’ specialty restaurants. How can you go past a surf and turf when you’re on holiday? But these days, cruise lines are going above and beyond your everyday on-shore steakhouses, with boutique providores, modern twists, decadent sauces and theatrical kitchens. Here’s our pick of the top steakhouses at sea.

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Royal Caribbean

Princess Cruises

Chops Grille / Chops Grille on Royal Caribbean serves lunch and dinner, with signature appetisers like charred beef carpaccio served with parmesan cheese, shaved asparagus and truffle mustard dressing. All the steaks in the main course are served with their exclusive homemade Chops steak sauce. Seafood lovers will enjoy the revamped menu, which features dishes such as the everythingcrusted tuna. Lunch will set you back USD$35, and dinner is USD$49.99 on most ships, and USD$52.99 on Symphony.

Crown Grill / Guest favourite Crown Grill serves cooked-to-order steaks and seafood across Princess’s fleet. The restaurant offers a selection of flavoured salts – including Hawaiian black salt, smoked applewood salt and Himalayan mountain pink salt – chosen by experts to complement the meats. For dessert, indulge in an exclusive chocolate treat by Master Chocolatier Norman Love.

Their open, theatre-style kitchen only fires up at night and has a cover charge of USD$29, which includes one main course.

CRUISE PLUS: FOOD

Celebrity Cruises

P&O Cruises

Tuscan Grille / The Italian steakhouse serves antipasto, handmade pasta, marbled steak and sides, plus Italian wine and cocktails. Their pasta even comes in half-size portions so you don’t have to worry about missing out. For meats, dig into their butcher cuts or spoil yourself with a USDA Prime Aged Steak for an extra charge. Dinner is served nightly while lunch is served on select sea days.

Dining at Tuscan Grill costs USD$45 per person for dinner and USD$35 for lunch.

Salt Grill by Luke Mangan / P&O’s long partnership with Australian celebrity chef Luke Mangan brings food enjoyed by the likes of Bill Clinton, Richard Branson and Danish royalty to cruisers. The menu offers a various cuts of Australian beef, and signature dishes such as the crab omelette and enoki mushroom salad also feature homegrown ingredients. Finish your meal with their iconic liquorice parfait with lime syrup. Salt Grill serves lunch, dinner and high tea at $49, $59 and $29 respectively on Pacific Aria, Dawn, Eden and Jewel.

Cunard Steakhouse at The Verandah / The line’s newest dining concept is influenced by both sides of the Atlantic, with a menu that showcases prime USDA grainfinished New York strip steak, Maine lobster and Alaskan king crab alongside dishes celebrating the line’s British provenance such as grass-fed Scotch fillet and salt marsh lamb rack. Grass-fed wagyu beef from Australia also features on the menu.

Craft cocktails and an extensive wine list are available to complement your meal,.

The restaurant serves lunch for $25USD and dinner for $39USD.

Oceania Cruises Polo Grill / The dark wood décor and burgundy leather seats at Polo Grill on Oceania Cruises ships is reflective of a classic American steakhouse. The dinner-only venue is included in the fare, but reservations are required. They pride themselves on cooking their USDA prime beef to your exact specifications, so don’t be surprised if your server asks you to cut into your piece to check it is suitably cooked. Other notable mains are the seafood dishes like the grilled swordfish and whole Maine lobster gratinee.

Holland America Line Pinnacle Grill / This Pacific Northwest-inspired restaurant has weekly specials on their menus, which focus on premium ingredients such as wild-caught Alaskan king salmon and sustainably raised and hand-selected beef from Washington state’s Double R Ranch.

Try their green peppercorn or sun-dried tomato sauce with your choice steak. Other delicacies on the menu include kurobuta pork, Colorado lamb chops and jidori chicken. The lavish and elegant restaurant is open for lunch for $10USD and dinner for $35USD.

Regent Seven Seas Norwegian Cruise Line

Seabourn

Cagney’s Steakhouse / For an American-style dining experience, visit Cagney’s Steakhouse on most vessels in the Norwegian Cruise Line fleet.

At Cagney’s, you can take your pick of choice cuts of Angus beef. Filet mignon is a favourite, or go with the T-bone for something traditional, or the prime rib for something tender. Cagney also has a specialty cocktail, the Speakeasy Martini; a combination of Southern Comfort, apricot brandy, Grand Marnier and Prosecco. The restaurant has an extensive à la carte menu.

The Grill by Thomas Keller / Seabourn’s partnership with renowned American chef Thomas Keller has brought The Grill onto the newest ships in the fleet.

The menu features steakhouse favourites like Lobster thermidor and creamed spinach, and serves prime US beef and lamb with Bordelaise, Perigourdine, paloise, gastrique, bearnaise or classic steak sauce.

The gourmet dining experience is included in the fare and serves dinner only – make an online reservation before sailing to guarantee a table.

Prime 7 / Like Polo Grill on Regent’s sister line, Prime 7 serves USDA prime beef steaks that have been dry-aged for at least 28 days. But carnivores and seafood lovers are equally catered for with signature surf and turf dishes.

Enjoy your filet mignon with lobster tail or king crab legs, or make your own custom pairings. Their wide range of sauces include bearnaise, barbecue, chimichurri, cranberryport wine, Armagnac and green peppercorn, and Jack Daniels steakhouse. There is no additional charge to dine at the dinner-only venue but make reservations early. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: WELLNESS

1 APT with AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna At twice the width of standard river vessels, AmaMagna will be the largest river ship to sail Europe’s rivers. That not only means larger accommodation and more restaurants, it also means a greater wellness range. The Zen Wellness Studio will have a large exercise area for yoga, circuit and cardio classes for no extra charge, as well as a water sports platform for activities like stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking.

AmaMagna will also carry a fleet of bicycles for use by guests, and feature a juice bar, massage rooms and a salon where you can get your nails and hair done.

New & improved Lines are constantly upgrading their onboard wellness offerings.

Here are five of the newest.

There is a rising trend of travellers focusing on wellness, especially among cruisers – they now want to detox, work out and unwind, rather than indulge at the buffet or the bar (though, of course, there is still some of that!). Here are a few of the wellness facilities that will be introduced on ships in 2019.

2

Virgin Voyages’ Vitamin Sea The cruise line for non-cruisers will have a big focus on wellness, in line with its Epic Sea Change For All brand mantra.

The Athletic Club has a number of training areas for high intensity workouts, including a boxing ring, strength and gymnastics equipment, and dedicated spaces for strength, spin, yoga and cardio. There is also an oversized gaming area, cabanas and a sports bar for post work-out hangs. The spa, called Redemption, comes complete with a hydrotherapy pool, mud room, salt room, quartz beds, cold plunge pools and specialised spa treatments.

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CRUISE PLUS: WELLNESS

3 MSC Cruises and WW in Europe For those who are worried about gaining weight while holidaying, MSC has a solution to keeping the pounds off. Their ongoing partnership with the famous weight-loss program WW (formerly Weight Watchers) has expanded to include a cruise in Europe on MSC Seaview in July.

Designed for the calorie-conscious cruiser who wants to keep the weight off or even lose an inch or two while cruising, the program includes fitness, strength and flexibility classes, wellness seminars, and a specially designed menu.

Uniworld’s Indian wellness cruise

4 Cunard’s Mareel Wellness and Beauty The luxury line recently unveiled its brand new spa, which was created in partnership with renowned wellness brand Canyon Ranch.

It was rolled out on Queen Elizabeth and Queen Victoria in December 2018 and is expected on Queen Mary in 2020. The fabulous new spa has a new couples’ suite for seaweed bathing rituals, a meditation room with acoustic resonance loungers and a revamped fitness centre with a studio space for classes. Canyon Ranch has also created new spa menu options, with a marine and seawater based experiences, and all their luxury products are made with organic, sustainable and ethically harvested ingredients.

The luxury river cruise line will be offering a special dedicated wellness program on all their India’s Golden Triangle and the Sacred Ganges sailings.

The 13-day itinerary includes onboard yoga classes and meditation sessions led by a local yoga guru, and a new menu with organic options and guidelines for healthy eating. There are also healthy cooking classes, group lectures and certified wellness instructors providing one-on-one advice to guests looking for a bit of inspiration.

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STYLE: MEDITERRANEAN

Superga, $39.95, superga.com.au

e.g.etal, $270, egetal.com.au

Marc Jacobs, $499, marcjacobs.com.au

club med

Jac Cadeaux, $120, jaccadeaux.com

Brigid McLaughlin, $189, brigidmclaughlin.com

Cruising the Mediterranean calls for resort wear in bright colours and natural fabrics.

, Bec & Bridge, $250 .au becandbridge.com

Local Supply, $79.95, localsupply.com

Country Road, $199, countryroad.com.au

Country Road, $189, countryroad.com.au Jac Cadeaux, $249, jaccadeaux.com

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STYLE: MEDITERRANEAN

Sportscraft, $8 9.99, sportscraft.com .au

Rigon Headwear, $39.95, rigonheadwear.com.au

The Daily Edited, $54.95, thedailyedited.com Emporio Armani, $249, emporioarmani.com/au

Veja, $125, veja-store.com

Typo, $119.99, cottonon.com Bailey Nelson, $175, baileynelson.com.au

Sportscraft, $89.99, sportscraft.com.au

Tolu Australia, $119.95, tolu.com.au

Colorado, $169.95, colorado.com.au Nautica, $99.95, nautica.com.au

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PORT SCHEDULE

AUSTRALIA’S BEST SOURCE OF CRUISE NEWS

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> Save up to $31.40 when you subscribe to Cruise Passenger magazine and go in the draw to win a Samsonite Cosmolite 3 luggage set worth $1,378. The duo includes a 75-centimetre and a 55-centimetre suitcase (which weighs just 1.7 kilograms!). The Cosmolite 3 design has 360° multidirectional spinner wheels, a recessed TSA-approved three-dial combination lock and a lightweight, fully-integrated pull handle, for elegance and ease from departure to arrival. Note: Prize cases are Midnight Blue.

For a chance to win, go to cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine, subscribe to Cruise Passenger and tell us in 25 words or less where you would like to take your Cosmolite 3 luggage.

Terms and conditions apply, See cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine.

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PORT SCHEDULE

Port Schedule Cruise ships calling at Australia and New Zealand, March 2019 - May 2019

DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

DATE

ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA 9-MAR-19 12-MAR-19 16-MAR-19

PACIFIC EDEN PACIFIC EDEN PACIFIC EDEN

P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

PACIFIC DAWN SEA PRINCESS QUEEN MARY 2 SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC DAWN CARNIVAL SPIRIT RADIANCE OF THE SEAS CELEBRITY SOLSTICE PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN VOYAGER OF THE SEAS PACIFIC DAWN SEA PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC DAWN

P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CUNARD LINE PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE ROYAL CARIBBEAN CELEBRITY CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES

Port report / Newcastle

CRUISE LINE

ALBANY, WESTERN AUSTRALIA 8-MAR-19 19-MAR-19 21-MAR-19 26-MAR-19

ASTOR PACIFIC EDEN SEA PRINCESS VIKING SUN

7-MAR-19 8-MAR-19 10-MAR-19 12-MAR-19 15-MAR-19 16-MAR-19 19-MAR-19 22-MAR-19 23-MAR-19 26-MAR-19 28-MAR-19 28-MAR-19 30-MAR-19 3-APR-19 5-APR-19

SUN PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC ARIA MAASDAM MAJESTIC PRINCESS PACIFIC DAWN SEA PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS

AIRLIE BEACH, QUEENSLAND 8-MAR-19 10-MAR-19 13-MAR-19 17-MAR-19 19-MAR-19 29-MAR-19 2-APR-19 3-APR-19 8-APR-19 19-APR-19 20-APR-19 23-APR-19 24-APR-19 6-MAY-19 17-MAY-19

SHIP

Explorer of the Seas at Newcastle.

CRUISE & MARITIME VOYAGES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES VIKING CRUISES

BRISBANE, QUEENSLAND PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES

N

ewcastle, a few hours north of Sydney, is a fixture on several major cruise lines’ itineraries. It is the second largest city in the state, but has all the laidback charm of a beach town with cool bars and restaurants, boutiques, and endless surf beaches. It’s also the gateway to the famous Hunter Valley wine region and features plenty of convict-era history. The port runs a free shuttle into the city centre, about a five minute drive. The port is currently considering a major upgrade to make it suitable for homeporting, but in the meantime visitors enjoy the gun salute as they cruise out of the harbour.

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PORT SCHEDULE

Silver Muse and Silver Whisper in White Bay, Sydney.

DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

BRISBANE, QUEENSLAND 6-APR-19 7-APR-19 9-APR-19 11-APR-19 13-APR-19 20-APR-19 27-APR-19 4-MAY-19 7-MAY-19 11-MAY-19 16-MAY-19 18-MAY-19 25-MAY-19

SEA PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN

PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

19-APR-19 25-APR-19 15-MAY-19 23-MAY-19

CRYSTAL SYMPHONY SILVER DISCOVERER SILVER DISCOVERER LE LAPEROUSE

CRYSTAL CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES PONANT

EDEN, NEW SOUTH WALES 26-MAR-19

PACIFIC EDEN QUEEN ELIZABETH SEA PRINCESS

P&O CRUISES CUNARD LINE PRINCESS CRUISES

CAIRNS, QUEENSLAND 8-MAR-19

AZAMARA QUEST

AZAMARA CLUB CRUISES

COOKTOWN, QUEENSLAND 10-MAR-19 15-MAR-19

INSIGNIA CRYSTAL SYMPHONY

OCEANIA CRUISES CRYSTAL CRUISES

DARWIN, NORTHERN TERRITORY 8-MAR-19 12-MAR-19 12-MAR-19 13-MAR-19 13-MAR-19 14-MAR-19 21-MAR-19 22-MAR-19 30-MAR-19 2-APR-19 5-APR-19 7-APR-19 8-APR-19

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QUEEN VICTORIA AZAMARA QUEST SUN PRINCESS AZAMARA QUEST INSIGNIA AMSTERDAM VIKING ORION VIKING ORION SEA PRINCESS MAJESTIC PRINCESS SILVER DISCOVERER EXPLORER OF THE SEAS EXPLORER OF THE SEAS

CUNARD LINE AZAMARA CLUB CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES AZAMARA CLUB CRUISES OCEANIA CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE VIKING CRUISES VIKING CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES SILVERSEA CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN ROYAL CARIBBEAN

cruisepassenger.com.au

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

HAMILTON ISLAND, QUEENSLAND 24-MAR-19 12-APR-19

PACIFIC ARIA SEABOURN ENCORE

P&O CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

5-MAR-19 6-MAR-19 6-MAR-19 10-MAR-19 11-MAR-19 15-MAR-19 16-MAR-19 19-MAR-19 21-MAR-19 22-MAR-19 25-MAR-19 4-APR-19 5-APR-19 8-APR-19

VIKING ORION QUEEN ELIZABETH PACIFIC EDEN CARNIVAL SPIRIT MAJESTIC PRINCESS QUEEN ELIZABETH SEA PRINCESS VIKING SUN NOORDAM NOORDAM CARNIVAL SPIRIT CRYSTAL SYMPHONY CRYSTAL SYMPHONY CELEBRITY SOLSTICE

VIKING CRUISES CUNARD LINE P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CUNARD LINE PRINCESS CRUISES VIKING CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE HOLLAND AMERICA LINE CARNIVAL CRUISES CRYSTAL CRUISES CRYSTAL CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES

6-MAR-19 16-MAR-19 23-MAR-19 27-MAR-19 30-MAR-19 3-APR-19 9-APR-19 25-APR-19 11-MAY-19 15-MAY-19 25-MAY-19 30-MAY-19

PACIFIC EDEN PACIFIC EDEN

P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

MELBOURNE, VICTORIA 10-MAR-19 12-MAR-19 18-MAR-19 22-MAR-19 23-MAR-19 30-MAR-19 5-APR-19

GOLDEN PRINCESS QUEEN ELIZABETH QUEEN ELIZABETH MSC MAGNIFICA GOLDEN PRINCESS QUEEN ELIZABETH GOLDEN PRINCESS

PRINCESS CRUISES CUNARD LINE CUNARD LINE MSC CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CUNARD LINE PRINCESS CRUISES

CRUISE LINE

PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL LEGEND PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER SEABOURN ENCORE PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER

P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES SEABOURN CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES

NEWCASTLE, NEW SOUTH WALES 11-MAR-19 9-APR-19

VIKING ORION CRYSTAL SYMPHONY

VIKING CRUISES CRYSTAL CRUISES

PERTH (FREMANTLE), WESTERN AUSTRALIA 21-MAR-19 11-MAR-19

PACIFIC EDEN SEA PRINCESS

P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES

PORT DOUGLAS, QUEENSLAND 15-APR-19 24-APR-19 22-MAY-19

KANGAROO ISLAND, Â SOUTH AUSTRALIA 11-MAR-19 15-MAR-19

SHIP

MORETON ISLAND, QUEENSLAND

HOBART, TASMANIA

BURNIE, TASMANIA 4-MAR-19 11-MAR-19 15-MAR-19

SEABOURN ENCORE

DATE

CRYSTAL SYMPHONY PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN

CRYSTAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

SYDNEY, NEW SOUTH WALES 4-MAR-19 4-MAR-19 4-MAR-19 5-MAR-19 5-MAR-19 5-MAR-19 6-MAR-19 6-MAR-19 7-MAR-19 8-MAR-19 8-MAR-19 9-MAR-19 10-MAR-19

PACIFIC EXPLORER QUEEN ELIZABETH INSIGNIA SUN PRINCESS RADIANCE OF THE SEAS SUN PRINCESS CARNIVAL LEGEND AMSTERDAM CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER OVATION OF THE SEAS QUEEN ELIZABETH EXPLORER OF THE SEAS

P&O CRUISES CUNARD LINE OCEANIA CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN CUNARD LINE ROYAL CARIBBEAN

PORT SCHEDULE DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

10-MAR-19 11-MAR-19 12-MAR-19 12-MAR-19 13-MAR-19 14-MAR-19 15-MAR-19 16-MAR-19 17-MAR-19 18-MAR-19 21-MAR-19 21-MAR-19 22-MAR-19 23-MAR-19 25-MAR-19 25-MAR-19 26-MAR-19 27-MAR-19 29-MAR-19 29-MAR-19 30-MAR-19 1-APR-19 1-APR-19 1-APR-19 2-APR-19 4-APR-19 5-APR-19 7-APR-19 7-APR-19 8-APR-19 9-APR-19 9-APR-19 11-APR-19 12-APR-19 13-APR-19

VIKING ORION PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT SEA PRINCESS MAJESTIC PRINCESS CARNIVAL LEGEND RADIANCE OF THE SEAS VIKING SUN EXPLORER OF THE SEAS CARNIVAL LEGEND PACIFIC EXPLORER OVATION OF THE SEAS CARNIVAL SPIRIT RADIANCE OF THE SEAS PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL LEGEND MAJESTIC PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER EXPLORER OF THE SEAS OVATION OF THE SEAS QUEEN ELIZABETH PACIFIC EXPLORER QUEEN ELIZABETH CARNIVAL LEGEND RADIANCE OF THE SEAS PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT NOORDAM GOLDEN PRINCESS OVATION OF THE SEAS SEA PRINCESS CARNIVAL SPIRIT CELEBRITY SOLSTICE PACIFIC EXPLORER

VIKING CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN VIKING CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN CARNIVAL CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN ROYAL CARIBBEAN CUNARD LINE P&O CRUISES CUNARD LINE CARNIVAL CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE PRINCESS CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN PRINCESS CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES P&O CRUISES

14-APR-19 17-APR-19 18-APR-19 19-APR-19 21-APR-19 22-APR-19 23-APR-19 27-APR-19 30-APR-19 30-APR-19 9-MAY-19 10-MAY-19 13-MAY-19 13-MAY-19 14-MAY-19 17-MAY-19 20-MAY-19 23-MAY-19 27-MAY-19 28-MAY-19

RADIANCE OF THE SEAS OVATION OF THE SEAS RADIANCE OF THE SEAS CARNIVAL SPIRIT NOORDAM CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC EXPLORER PACIFIC EXPLORER CARNIVAL SPIRIT CARNIVAL SPIRIT PACIFIC EXPLORER

ROYAL CARIBBEAN ROYAL CARIBBEAN ROYAL CARIBBEAN CARNIVAL CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES CARNIVAL CRUISES P&O CRUISES

THURSDAY ISLAND, QUEENSLAND 10-MAR-19 19-MAR-19

AZAMARA QUEST VIKING ORION

AZAMARA CLUB CRUISES VIKING CRUISES

YORKEYS KNOB, QUEENSLAND 15-MAR-19 4-APR-19 23-APR-19 21-MAY-19

COSTA LUMINOSA EXPLORER OF THE SEAS PACIFIC DAWN PACIFIC DAWN

COSTA CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

DATE

SHIP

CRUISE LINE

AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND 5-MAR-19 6-MAR-19 8-MAR-19 8-MAR-19 6-MAR-19 9-MAR-19 10-MAR-19 11-MAR-19 14-MAR-19 16-MAR-19 17-MAR-19 19-MAR-19 20-MAR-19 22-MAR-19 24-MAR-19 27-MAR-19 29-MAR-19 1-APR-19 7-APR-19 9-APR-19 13-APR-19 14-APR-19 16-APR-19 16-APR-19 17-APR-19 22-APR-19 30-APR-19 10-MAY-19 13-MAY-19 23-MAY-19 31-MAY-19

COSTA LUMINOSA SEA PRINCESS VIKING SUN EUROPA 2 AMADEA RADIANCE OF THE SEAS NOORDAM SEABOURN ENCORE MSC MAGNIFICA CELEBRITY SOLSTICE OVATION OF THE SEAS GOLDEN PRINCESS LE LAPEROUSE MAJESTIC PRINCESS CRYSTAL SYMPHONY RADIANCE OF THE SEAS CELEBRITY SOLSTICE GOLDEN PRINCESS LE LAPEROUSE PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA MAASDAM CELEBRITY SOLSTICE GOLDEN PRINCESS NOORDAM PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA SEA PRINCESS PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA PACIFIC ARIA

COSTA CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES VIKING CRUISES HAPAG-LLOYD PHOENIX RIESEN ROYAL CARIBBEAN HOLLAND AMERICA LINE SEABOURN CRUISE LINE MSC CRUISES CELEBRITY CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN PRINCESS CRUISES PONANT PRINCESS CRUISES CRYSTAL CRUISES ROYAL CARIBBEAN CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES PONANT P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE CELEBRITY CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES HOLLAND AMERICA LINE P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES PRINCESS CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES P&O CRUISES

SAVE & WIN WITH CRUISE PASSENGER > Save up to $31.40 when you subscribe to Cruise Passenger magazine and go in the draw to win a Samsonite Cosmolite 3 luggage set worth $1,378, which includes a 75-centimetre and a 55-centimetre suitcase (which weighs just 1.7 kilograms!).

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93

LAST WORD

My Cruise with Oprah John Roberts finds a cruise with the talk-show queen a humbling and educational experience.

I

knew I would be in the minority when I agreed to go with my wife on Oprah’s Girls’ Getaway Cruise, but after boarding Nieuw Statendam, I learned I was one of just 57 men sailing with more than 2,400 women. And it was an amazing (and eye-opening) experience.

This cruise celebrated the importance of friendship, especially among women, and female empowerment, and the positivity started with Oprah.

The wildly famous media icon is godmother to Nieuw Statendam; her Girls’ Getaway Cruise was capped with a naming ceremony in Fort Lauderdale.

Some cruisers wore special T-shirts identifying them as groups from Texas or as particular fans of Oprah. The most charming ones stated “I’m Her Gayle and She’s My Oprah”, referring to Gayle King, Oprah’s best friend of more than 40 years, who was also onboard.

Mothers cruised with daughters and grand-daughters. We saw sisters. Best friends. And, yes, even husbands.

94

cruisepassenger.com.au

Certain moments did stand out, highlighting where I was. I was the only man among at least 500 women at the buffet for lunch. I enjoyed a similar ratio on the ferry to our stop in the Bahamas during the three-day cruise.

Most of the cruise ship restrooms usually designated for men were converted, of course, which had me and a few of my

Oprah sessions in the ship’s main theatre.

She asked the men to stand for a little applause and recognition, and she assured us we should be able to cash in on this goodwill until at least October.

Oprah was seen occasionally around the ship, and a few lucky passengers had a chance to interact with her informally.

One woman chatted to her on an adjacent treadmill at the gym during her earlymorning workout. Another group I talked to said the highlight of their cruise was singing happy birthday to Oprah (she turned 65 during the cruise) when she stopped by their table in a restaurant.

She also had a photo-op session, and I was able to meet her quickly and get a keepsake picture.

Cruise activities included morning yoga sessions, intense workouts, chats with editors of O, The Oprah Magazine, a pyjama party (where Oprah served tequila shots!) and plenty of good food and music. We joined a fun excursion on Half Moon Cay where I was the only dude riding horses with dozens of women.

Each night, the Music Walk area would fill up. Cruisers enjoyed hearing classics at the Lincoln Center Stage (performed by a quintet of women), rocking out to the house band at the Rolling Stone Rock Room, dancing the night away at B.B. King’s Blues Club or singing along to duelling pianos at Billboard Onboard.

Oprah wowed attendees during her in-depth talk on the power of positivity

This drew a roar of laughter and a bit of ribbing about how my wife had ‘tricked’ me into this cruise.” fellow male cruise mates walking in circles looking for a loo. Now I know how it feels to be a woman, having to wait so long.

At one point, a crew member saw me in a long line of women and exclaimed “A boy!” That drew a roar of laughter from everyone and a bit of ribbing about how my wife had ‘tricked’ me into this cruise.

Even Oprah took note of the men who had made the voyage during each of her four at-capacity A Conversation with

and self-belief. She wove tales of her own life lessons into her talk and had the crowd enthralled for more than 90 minutes. It is now a little clearer to me why women regard her with such high esteem.

I have never been around a more diverse group of people – in terms of age and background, if not gender – who were so friendly and positive toward one another.

It’s hard to imagine a ship full of 2,400 men and 60 women putting out the same vibe.

CRUISE WITH CONFIDENCE Book your next cruise holiday with a specialist travel agent accredited by the official body of the cruise industry.

Travel agents with accreditation from Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) are trained cruising experts with the most detailed and up-to-date knowledge available.

Look for the CLIA logo and travel agents that display their accreditation credentials.

Go to www.cruising.org.au to find your nearest cruise specialist agent

CRUISING AUSTRALIA'S TOP END & THE ORIENT Stop guessing. Start doing. It's about time you did the NT by cruise & rail.

Orient to Outback with Voyager of the Seas & The Ghan 16 nights | 13 November 2019

• One way economy flight from your closest Australian capital city to Singapore.* • 3 night stay in Singapore at the Rendezvous Hotel including breakfast & transfers.

• 1 Day Funvee Hopper Sightseeing Pass.

• 5 nights aboard Voyager of the Seas cruising from Singapore to Darwin. Includes all on board meals & entertainment.

• 6 night stay in Darwin at the DoubleTree by Hilton Esplanade Darwin including breakfast, transfers & Darwin City Sights tour.

• Charles Darwin Dinner Cruise.

• Full day Litchfield National Park & Waterfalls tour.

• 2 nights aboard The Ghan travelling from Darwin to Adelaide in Gold or Platinum Service.

Includes all meals, drinks & off train experiences in Katherine, Alice Springs & Manguri.

South Australia to the Top End & East Coast with The Ghan & Voyager of the Seas 18 nights | 12 November 2019

Singapore

Darwin Katherine

Alice Springs Coober Pedy

Adelaide

twin from

6,229

$

pp

• 5 night stay in Adelaide at the Hilton Adelaide including breakfast & transfers.

• Adelaide Central Market tour.

• Full day Barossa & Hahndorf Highlights tour.

• Full day Kangaroo Island Experience tour.

• 2 nights aboard The Ghan travelling from Adelaide to Darwin in Gold or Platinum Service.

Includes all meals, drinks and off train experiences in Marla, Alice Springs and Katherine.

• 2 night stay in Darwin at the DoubleTree By Hilton Hotel Esplanade Darwin including breakfast & transfers.

• 24 hour Hop on Hop off Bus pass.

• 9 nights aboard Voyager of the Seas cruising from Darwin to Sydney with port calls in Yorkey’s Knob, Airlie Beach and Brisbane. Includes on board meals and entertainment.

1300 854 897

Darwin Katherine Yorkey’s Knob Airlie Beach Alice Springs Marla

Brisbane

Adelaide

Sydney

© Holidays of Australia

twin from

6,079

$

pp

holidays@holidaysofaustralia.com.au or contact your local travel agent

www.holidaysofaustralia.com.au

Terms & Conditions: Fares are per person in AUD based on twin share in an interior cruise cabin & gold service rail. Inclusive of all discounts, taxes, fees & port expenses if applicable which are subject to change. Prices correct as at 26.02.19.

Subject to availability. Airfares, hotels & transfers are additional unless otherwise stated. *Departures from Hobart are subject to a $250 per person supplement. Cancellation charges apply. For full terms & conditions contact Holidays of Australia and the World. E&OE - HA1229.