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Where next?

60 great ways to avoid the crowds CT07_001_Cover.indd 2

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Dine on a medley of five-star, locally-sourced cuisine, accompanied by included premium spirits and wines. From airport transfers and onboard gratuities to daily immersive excursions, every detail is taken care of.

Our one-of-a kind floating boutique hotels are destination-inspired and purposefully designed with every luxury and comfort in mind.

ENCHANTING DANUBE 8 Days • Budapest to Passau (or in reverse) | S.S. Maria Theresa Embark on a captivating journey through Central Europe, immersing yourself in the rich cultural heritage of four remarkable countries. This meticulously curated experience offers a tantalising blend of iconic landmarks and hidden gems, expertly guided by local insiders, including exclusive access to extraordinary attractions like the Kunstkammer, Vienna’s esteemed art collection.

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Everything you could ever need is included with Uniworld. From your meals to premium drinks, a host of onboard wellness opportunities plus your daily shore excursions. We’ve even included the onboard gratuities.

Each of our one-of-a-kind ships is like a floating boutique hotel; designed to immerse you in the destination and fully equipped with luxurious amenities, beautiful public spaces and multiple dining venues throughout.

Compared to ocean cruising, a river cruise ship offers guests a far more intimate experience. With just an average of 120 guests onboard, you can get to know your fellow travellers and also receive better access to the incredible staff onboard.

VISIT UNIWORLD.COM/AU | CALL 1300 780 231 | SEE YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

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*All fares and savings listed are in AUD, per person based on double occupancy. Single supplements apply. Prices shown include a discount and require full payment within seven days of booking. The offer is valid for new, individual bookings on all 2024 and 2025 itineraries and departure dates, except Rivers of the World. Offer is subject to availability at time of booking. The offer applies to the cruise-tour portion of bookings only, and does not include airfares. Offer is capacity controlled and may be modified or withdrawn at any time. Other restrictions may apply. UNIWORLD BOUTIQUE RIVER CRUISES, 35 GRAFTON STREET, BONDI JUNCTION NSW 2022

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Contents

Cruise

Travel

September 2023

32

Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au Editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Associate editor Grant Jones grant@bigsplashmedia.com.au Sub editor Claire Waddell Art director Catherine Martin Commercial director Phil Mahony phil@bigsplashmedia.com.au Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au Contributors and writers Tallis Boerne Marcus, Sue Bryant, Bernadette Chua, Annabel Fenwick Elliott, Louise Goldsbury, Ed Grenby, Anna Johnson, Grant Jones, Ute Junker, Teresa Ooi, Michael Turtle, Sue Wallace, Jeannine Williamson Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 – Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 – International cruisepassenger.com.au Cover: Oaxaca, Mexico Printed by IVE

cruisepassenger.com.au

Cruise & Travel magazine is published MULTI MEDIA COMMUNICATIONS

by Big Splash Media Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Copyright Big Splash Media Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher.

All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided. Always consult your travel agent.

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Contents / Spring 2023 14

Upfront The latest news in the world of epic train rides, high-end hotels and unmissable cruises. Plus, how balanced holidays can combat over-tourism.

OCEANS

30

Ride the wave

Celebrating Australia’s bumper cruise season.

Reviews

32

Crystal palace

Crystal Cruises makes a welcome comeback for luxury cruisers.

38

44

A visit to the Galapagos Islands with Silversea’s Silver Origin.

On board the new luxury expedition ship Scenic Eclipse II.

State of origin

Mission: possible

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RIVERS

54

68

Subscribe & Save

Best time to cruise

Our pick of when to go on a river cruise – and where.

WIN a $2500 cruise voucher

Reviews

60

Nothing trivial about the Moselle A journey through Alpine valleys, medieval towns and fairytale castles.

ESCAPES

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102

As chosen by our expert panel, 60 great escapes to inspire your next holiday.

Richard Branson tells of his four fondest travel memories.

Where next?

89

24-carat gold A special report on the Gold Coast’s luxury hotels, dining, shopping and spas.

My life in travel

104

What kind of hotel guest are you?

Take our quiz to find out if you’re a hotel hedonist or better off staying home.

WIN A CASE OF VEUVE CLICQUOT

Never miss an issue of Cruise & Travel – subscribe today and get it home-delivered You’ll go into the draw for a $2500 cruise voucher Plus you’ll save an incredible $37 – it costs just $50 for four issues Subscribe today!

Cruise cruisepassenger.com.au

Travel

• Oceania’s new ship surprise • Rwanda goes wild • Mekong made luxe

Scan the QR code for details on how to enter the draw for your chance to win.

89 Cruise &Travel

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BONUS MAGAZINE

Cuisine crazy

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Visit our website: cruisepassenger.com.au 9

23/8/2023 3:43 pm

Welcome

FROM THE PUBLISHER

New dawn W

elcome to this very special edition of Cruise & Travel.

It’s our biggest ever, packed with inspiration, ideas and information about travel’s new dawn.

We have three bonus magazines: a special edition from Regent Seven Seas Cruises on the line’s European destinations, an introduction to Disney Cruises as this wonderfully different company sails our waters for the first time, and our annual New Wave report on how the cruise industry is readying to meet tough new sustainability targets.

It’s an exciting time – and our writers have been across the globe to bring you first-hand accounts to help you choose your own journeys.

In an age of so-called artificial intelligence writing, it’s important that you know our writers are the real thing. They travel to the destinations we talk about, test out the offerings and help you decide what’s best for you.

In these pages, Sue Bryant reports on the first journey of the reborn Crystal Cruises, a legend in the luxury space with more awards than any other. It fell victim to the pandemic and now it has been relaunched by the well-known tour company Abercrombie & Kent.

Teresa Ooi discovers the joys of a German river cruise on a languid journey through the Moselle Valley, a wonderful place that has so far avoided the crowds which are now making travel in the rest of Europe more challenging.

And, of course, our own cruise season kicks off in style with new and exciting entrants: the much-anticipated Disney is already a huge success with sell-out itineraries, Richard Branson’s Virgin Voyages will be here with Resilient Lady, and we will be on board when Celebrity’s magnificent Edge arrives from New Zealand.

We’ll also bring you the first review of Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ new ship, Seven Seas Grandeur, from Miami.

These authentic and exclusive reports are the reason we publish this journal. And the reason we hope you will continue to buy it.

We’ve relaunched our website, cruisepassenger.com.au, in a simple-to-use format. We think it will make it easier for you to research your next big trip.

This edition also sees the launch of our annual appeal for your votes in our Readers’ Choice Awards.

Your voice is vital, so please use your vote. Our readers travel tens of thousands of kilometres every year on dozens of different ships. It’s an amazing resource. And our colleagues running cruise lines look forward to hearing what you think of the work their crews put in.

Go to cruisepassenger.com.au/readerschoice and cast your votes for those who have served you through the year. CT Peter Lynch, Editor-in-chief and publisher

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Relive the moment

That magic first toast as your cruise gets away is a special kind of feeling.

WHERE ARE THEY GOING NEXT?

/ TERESA OOI

I’m an inveterate foodie and there is nothing better than spicy street food. Of course, served with a crisp white wine. I’m heading off on a luxury European river cruise. And I will be on board Celebrity Edge during her maiden season Down Under. Over Christmas, I’ll be heading to Thailand to stay at the beautiful Anantara, where I’ll indulge in a Mai Tai or two.

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/ PETER LYNCH

My next trips include a sailing with Ponant in the Kimberley, which I am extremely excited about. It’s always been a must-see region to visit, especially after my friend Steve Odell came back and said it was one of his new favourite places he’s visited. But I’m also heading to Miami for the launch of Seven Seas Grandeur. Bring on the champagne and caviar.

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/ JANE ARCHER

Virgin Voyages came on the cruise scene with a mind to ‘disrupt’ the industry. I’m heading on board in September and I’ll be digging around to find out what that means – when I’m not lazing on my terrace hammock. It’s a great itinerary from Athens, and calling into Corfu, Split and Dubrovnik. I’ll enjoy the views as we sail through the pretty fjord that leads into Kotor.

/ DAVID DICKSTEIN

Sailing on Norwegian Viva has me especially excited.

NCL’s Prima class blurs the line between mainstream and premium cruising. I picked up the ship in Italy and the second leg of the inaugural sail has us early adopters going to countries of four different languages within a mere five days: Italian, French, Spanish and Portuguese in that order. Isn’t cruising wonderful?

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23/8/2023 1:45 pm

Best Unique Accommodation in Australia!

Australian Tourism Awards 2023

Jamala Dining

Giraffe Treehouses

Jungle Bungalow

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within the grounds of the National Zoo and Aquarium in the centre of Canberra, Jamala offers a variety of opulent safari style suites and bungalows that not only boast sublime African art and décor, but are also surrounded by some of the world’s most magnificent and endangered animals. A single night’s stay includes 22 hours of luxury, excitement and adventure with a tour of the zoo, afternoon tea, breakfast and a gourmet 4 course dinner with Moet champagne and fine wines included! Many guests choose a 2 to 4 night stay to experience more than one accommodation style.

Please note that while the animals generally join guests as shown, no guarantees can be given as they are free to roam their entire area at all times.

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Upfront | Inspiration for today’s sophisticated traveller |

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Cunard

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22/8/2023 10:55 am

Trends

IS YOUR NEXT HOLIDAY “UNBALANCED”?

Travellers face a revolution as some of the world’s favourite destinations struggle with crowds and climate, writes Peter Lynch.

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“Planning and getting the ‘balance’ right is a better way of dealing with the travel phenomena than fines and blockades.”

6 ways to balance your next trip

1

Find regional alternatives: Get off the beaten track and help communities. You’ll get a big welcome.

2

Go off-peak: The weather may be a little more unpredictable but cities, in particular, are great for what’s called shoulder season – spring or autumn.

3

f

rom Amsterdam to Venice and from the Galapagos to Greenland there is a lot of talk about traveller numbers these days. But a new epithet is set to replace “over-tourism”. It’s not just the latest piece of woke tokenism. There is an underlying logic to changing the description to “unbalanced” – and it’s likely to change your travel radically in the coming decade or so.

Over-tourism implies that there are just too many of us travelling. And while it is true that numbers are increasing, the problems arise not because of that. It’s because we all want to go to the same places at the same time.

You could blame another overused phrase for that. We’re not keen on bucket lists here at Cruise & Travel magazine.

We think the art of discovery is experiencing something fresh and different, whether it’s food, a special place or local people and their culture.

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Support a local community: Large tour groups – particularly package tours – often spend little time, and even less money, in the places they’re visiting.

Make sure your visit helps local businesses by staying longer, sleeping in locally-owned accommodation and choosing smaller restaurants.

4

Buy local: Souvenirs from local artisans and, if you can, buy from them direct.

5

Go local: Exploring with a local guide can reveal a secret side to the place you’re visiting. Try cycle, kayak or hiking tours.

6

Be an eco-friendly traveller: Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footsteps.

Use environmentally responsible cruise lines and tour operators (you’ll find many in our magazine New Wave).

But it is true that when the peoples of our planet compare their personal bucket lists, there is a surprising amount that is in common: Antarctica; Africa’s Big Five; Europe’s historic cities, like Rome and Barcelona; and Asia’s icons, like Angkor Wat. As a result there has been a startling amount of local legislation that makes being a tourist almost akin to being a criminal. In Rome, for instance, you can be fined €400 (about $680) for sitting on the Spanish Steps. An American was fined €450 (about $760) for interfering with the “environmental decorum” of the Fontana dei Catecumeni by eating a sandwich.

Cruise ships have long been a target. Larger vessels certainly stand out from the crowd, as do the number of passengers setting out on shore excursions.

Amsterdam recently sparked global headlines when city councillors called for the closure of Holland’s 13-year-old cruise centre close to the city (don’t worry – it’s not closing any time soon, but the debate was certainly heated).

The cruise industry counters with an interesting argument – and one that certainly plays to the “balanced” debate. While no one can predict with accuracy how many tourists will arrive by bus, train or plane, at least with cruise ships you are forewarned, sometimes years in advance, and can prepare for the arrival of a predictable number of passengers.

Planning and getting the “balance” right is a better way of dealing with the travel phenomena than fines and blockades – Amsterdam, for instance, is slashing in half the number of flights permitted to land at Schiphol Airport and the Dutch city is full of signs telling tourist not to sit, stand or queue, and to keep the noise down.

No traveller wants to turn up in a city or town where they are made to feel unwanted.

One obvious idea is making tourism out of season more popular. Viking, for instance, is sailing yearround on Europe’s waterways – and I, for one, have always found Europe in April and May so much more pleasant than June, July and August when every European joins the millions from overseas in wanting to visit historic sights.

Climate change may be about to come to our aid in encouraging a change in travel seasons. This year’s heatwaves in Greece and other capitals have sent a strong message to the travelling public: think outside past practices to avoid holiday disasters.

The European Commission has been examining the problem and last year issued a landmark report.

“While we cannot underestimate the economic importance of tourism for destinations, unbalanced tourism growth leads to social and environmental problems, ultimately damaging a destination’s longterm competitiveness,” the report concluded.

The investigation praised destinations that have proactively implemented a wide array of measures to foster off-season tourism and disperse tourists to regions rather than the iconic centres, a move that can contribute to the well-being of local communities.

The travel industry and travel media can play a part. And our report in this edition of 60 great ideas that are often outside the square is a case in point. CT 15

23/8/2023 11:09 am

Upfront

/ Around the world in 140 days

L

uxury line Silversea has just revealed details of its 2026 world cruise, which will call on some rarely visited destinations. Silver Dawn will visit some of Australia’s lesser-visited ports, such as Busselton and Port Lincoln, and will also call on Easter Island, with its mysterious Moai statues, and French Polynesia. The ship will semi-circumnavigate Australia along the southern and western coasts and “dive into the diversity of nature” around Phillip Island, Exmouth and Esperance. Destinations further afield include Greek and Turkish islands and Israel. You’ll fall in love with charming medieval cities such as Dubrovnik and Kotor, and go shopping in the ancient markets of Tunis in North Africa.

FLIGHTS OF FANCY

• When the ultra-luxury yacht Scenic Eclipse II begins sailing in the Kimberley in May 2024, it will be the only ship in the region to have two helicopters on board. The Airbus H130-T2 helicopters fit six passengers each, and will give guests access to bird’s-eye views of the Kimberley without the need to transfer to and from the ship. This means longer times in the sky and a greater number of flights for guests; every cruise will have up to 10 helicopter excursions. Scenic’s expedition guides will lead heli-excursions to go barramundi fishing, view Mitchell Falls and visit the remote Buccaneer Archipelago. All helicopter flights are at an additional cost to your cruise fare.

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CURTIS STONE’S MEXICAN MOVES

/ London calling

W

ith the opening of the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair in 2023, the luxury hotel group has announced a third London location, the central riverside area of South Bank. Slated for 2028, the Mandarin Oriental Bankside will be part of the large Bankside Yards development between the Tate Modern and Blackfriars Station. The 171-room hotel will have a comprehensive spa offering wellness therapies, a 25-metre lap pool and a fitness centre. Two of the hotel’s four restaurants will be on the 19th floor, offering sweeping views over St Paul’s Cathedral and the city.

• The hotel Maroma on the Yucatán Peninsula south of Cancun is now home to a Curtis Stone restaurant, Woodend. The recently renovated Belmond Hotel’s new restaurant offers a menu befitting the energy of its beachside location with seasonal and curated dishes cooked over an open fire, and heavily influenced by the flavours of the Yucatan and the history of its cuisine.

Freshly caught seafood, prime cuts, Latin marinades and spice blends feature. The stunning design of the restaurant, by renowned interior designer Tara Bernerd, is an ode to the traditional thatched palapa roof of the Yucatan.

Cruise &Travel

22/8/2023 11:28 am

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Collaboration

A taste of the

EXOTIC OCEANIA CRUISES

If far-flung destinations without the crowds appeal to you, then opt for one of Oceania Cruises’ idyllic voyages to the islands of Tahiti, writes Teresa Ooi.

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eing small, luxurious and serving The Finest Cuisine at Sea®, Oceania Cruises is leading the charge to sail to some of the lesser-known coastal destinations so that travellers can fully immerse themselves in the fascinating cultures of these off-thebeaten-track islands.

In 2024 and 2025, Oceania Cruises, the world’s leading culinary- and destination-focused cruise line, will be offering a captivating array of sailings in Tahiti.

With its swinging hula grass skirts and scented lei garlands, Tahiti in French Polynesia is sheer paradise.

Nothing beats its romantic islands and laid-back, everso-friendly people. Tahiti’s stunning turquoise waters and sandy beaches are a screensaver wherever you look.

Oceania Cruises calls at the island paradise of Nuku Hiva and the most romantic island, Bora Bora.

Jason Worth, Vice President, International Sales of Oceania Cruises, says, “Our specially curated collection of immersive shore excursions, combined with a relaxing home-away-from-home ambience on board our luxurious ships, makes for the dream cruise holiday.”

In addition, Oceania Cruises’ newly introduced “simply MORE” itineraries include free shore excursions, free pre-paid gratuities, free gourmet specialty dining, free unlimited WiFi and a generous beverage package for all new reservations departing October 1, 2023 or later.

Cruise &Travel

23/8/2023 5:24 pm

“NOTHING BEATS ITS ROMANTIC ISLANDS AND LAID-BACK, EVERSO-FRIENDLY PEOPLE.”

/ Moorea The sister island of Tahiti, Moorea offers

breathtaking landscapes from the verdant mountains and white sandy beaches to the Mykonos-coloured seas.

Try your hand at kayaking, snorkelling or scuba diving. / Bora Bora From the moment you sail into Bora Bora, you will be blown away by its sparkling turquoise waters and soft, sandy beaches. Go for a reef-ringed lagoon tour, jet ski, or try a Polynesian day with lunch on a motu (a small sand island) – an amazing experience. / Fakarava The ecosystem of this island is home to extremely rare birds, plants and crustaceans. Walk through quaint villages and old coral churches where the local people are only too keen to welcome you. / Rangiroa This South Pacific atoll is a natural aquarium teeming with colourful fish, manta rays and other marine life. You can also visit a pearl farm, dive with manta rays or simply read a book on a pink sandy beach.

Choose from the following Tahiti itineraries:

Tahitian Legends A 10-day round-trip from Papeete

Here are some of Tahiti’s destination highlights:

Pure paradise

Clockwise, from main: Marina off Rangiroa; Privée, the most exclusive private dining experience at sea; the Aquamar Spa + Vitality Center; Toscana restaurant.

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/ Papeete The capital of French Polynesia, which is on the island of Tahiti, has many hidden-gem attractions, from the Faarumai waterfalls and the Maraa fern grottos to the Arahoho blowhole, where you can go for a dip. Or you can simply sit back and enjoy watching the local surfers show off their skills on their longboards. / Nuku Hiva This dreamy island is also one of the most remote in French Polynesia. Make a beeline to the entrance of the Vaipo Waterfalls and Cascade Tevaipo – one of the world’s tallest falls at more than 335 metres.

(Tahiti) aboard Nautica, overnighting in Papeete and Bora Bora and visiting Moorea, Fakarava, Nuku Hiva, Rangiroa and Raiatea. Departs January 20, 2024 and February 15, 2025.

Lands of Captain Cook For 31 days sail from Papeete to Sydney aboard Nautica, overnighting in Papeete, Bora Bora and Sydney and visiting Moorea, Fakarava, Nuku Hiva, Rangiroa, Raiatea, Papeete, Bora Bora, Pago Pago, Apia, Suva, Bay of Islands, Auckland, Rotorua, Gisborne, Wellington, Burnie and Eden. Departs February 19, 2024.

Tahitian & Hawaiian Hues For 18 days cruise from Los Angeles to Papeete aboard Nautica, overnighting in Bora Bora and Papeete and visiting Lahaina, Honolulu, Hilo, Raiatea and Moorea. Departs January 8, 2025. CT For more information, visit oceaniacruises.com 19

23/8/2023 2:37 pm

Upfront

/ A new dawn

G

uests booked to cruise on board the refurbished Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony will be in for a treat at the ships’ new Aurora Spa, inspired by the Goddess of Dawn. Offering “sunrise-inspired” treatments, Aurora Spa will be an oasis that rejuvenates body, mind and soul. Elemis facials and Kerastase hair treatments will be on the menu, along with light therapy, and Swedish and hot stone massages. The spa itself is a soothing space replete with light neutral colours, silk brushed slate stone and an illuminated starlight ceiling.

Both ships feature a steam room, sauna, relaxation room and 24-hour fitness centre.

ARCTIC adventures

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• Princess Cruises is expanding its Princess Plus and Princess Premier packages with more inclusive options at no additional cost, including casual dining, OceanNow delivery service, room service and express embarkation. Passengers who take up the packages will now be offered three-course, prix-fixe menus in the ships’ casual restaurants, such as Vines, O’Malley’s and the Salty Dog Pub. In addition, the access fees for the OceanNow delivery service and room service charges will be waived. The final new inclusion is streamlined boarding through the OceanReady Green Lane.

Guests can submit all their documentation via the Princess app and breeze through boarding. The Princess Plus and Princess Premier packages offer up to 70 per cent in savings compared to buying the items individually.

PRINCESS PACKAGES

• Viking is expanding its expeditions to the Arctic region, an area previously unchartered by the cruise line’s two adventure ships, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris. The line’s three new summer expeditions include the Into the Northwest Passage itinerary, a round trip from Nuuk, Greenland. On the 13-day

cruise, you can immerse yourself in Inuit culture and take a Zodiac or kayak expedition right up to towering glaciers.

Four sail dates are available from July through to September 2025. The 27-day itinerary visits the Canadian High Arctic and Greenland in July and September 2025.

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Upfront

LET’S GET PHYSICAL

• On Cunard’s upcoming seven-night Sporting Greats & Wellness Voyage, join famous Australian sporting talent for a range of curated activities and hear their experiences in live Q&A sessions. You will have the chance to chat with special guest Brett Lee or join him for a cricket-related shore excursion, to challenge Adam Goodes at some cruise games such as shuffleboard, paddle tennis or croquet, and to receive golfing

tips and advice from Karrie Webb. Other sporting experiences include the opportunity to play a round or two at some of Australia’s premier courses, such as New South Wales Golf Club or the Royal Hobart Golf Club, as well as the chance to join sports presenter Mark Beretta behind the scenes at Australia’s F1 Grand Prix track. The cruise aboard Queen Elizabeth departs Sydney on February 13, 2024.

A homage to the cuisine The Korean Cookbook (Phaidon, 2023), $74.95.

/ Coastal calm

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nantara has opened its second hotel in Italy, the Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel. Nestled high in the cliffs on the Amalfi Coast, the 13th-century former Capuchin convent now offers guests a luxury stay in one of 52 rooms. The hotel’s interior design takes its cues from the simple, artisanal lives of its original inhabitants, blending natural materials with the luxurious detail for which Anantara is known. Dining at the hotel is a celebration of the region with offerings carefully chosen by renowned Italian masters. At the signature restaurant Dei Cappucini, executive chef Claudio Lanuto introduces a convent-kitchen concept with fresh herbs from the monks’ garden starring in seafood-based sensory tasting menus. Ambassador of traditional Neapolitan pizza Gino Sorbillo invites diners to savour the flavours of the Campania region at the hotel’s al fresco pizzeria.

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22/8/2023 12:08 pm

Magical MICRONESIA

• Luxury yacht Four Seasons Explorer is setting sail to remote Palau in the Pacific. The relatively unexplored republic has more than 340 emerald islands and a local population of 20,000 which is intent on keeping the 4000-year-old Palauan culture alive.

It’s ideal for explorers, with only nine of the islands inhabited. Along the way guests will learn about the culture, and also see Second World War sites and centuries of European influence. Cultural excursions will include a visit to cave paintings on Ulong Island and a guided tour of the Belau National Museum.

Nature-based activities will take in the islands’ waterfalls and rainforests. Four Seasons Explorer is an intimate floating resort hosting just 22 guests at a time, offering lots of freedom and choice in exploration. In addition, Palauan people, chefs and musicians will also come on board to share their culture.

/ All aboard

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fter a long hiatus, The Eastern & Oriental Express, A Belmond Train is proud to announce its much-anticipated return to the rails in February 2024. Offering a reimagined adventure of Southeast Asia in motion, the train will launch two new seasonal journeys departing from Singapore and travelling through Malaysia’s ever-changing landscapes and Cruise&Travel

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A pearler

• The newest luxury line, Explora Journeys, will be the first-ever cruise line with a Rolex boutique on board. On Explora I, the new ‘Rolex at sea mono brand store’ will allow guests sailing on the ship to purchase from an extensive range of models and styles.

Michael Ungerer, CEO of Explora Journeys, says, “We are elated to be partnering with Rolex, a like-minded, Genevabased Swiss luxury brand that very much shares our

values and our long-term sustainable vision. It enables us to offer our discerning travellers the opportunity to purchase Rolex watches while sailing on board Explora I. We believe that this new retail location will be a must-visit destination for anyone looking to add a touch of luxury to their journey.” The new Rolex boutique will be operated by knowledgeable and experienced hosts trained

by Rolex to guide passengers through their curated shopping experience.

vibrant cities: the Essence of Malaysia (November to February) and Wild Malaysia (March to October). The iconic train’s 15 dark green carriages will leave Singapore’s Woodlands station, journeying to Penang, Langkawi and, for the first time, Taman Negara National Park, before heading back to the garden city. The train’s restyled interiors make for an enthralling journey encompassing culture, gastronomy and the arts.

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23/8/2023 11:12 am

Collaboration

APT

True North Explore breathtaking Canada and Alaska with APT.

F

or more than 30 years, APT has shared the wonders of North America on journeys that reveal the region’s irresistible allure from every unforgettable angle. These are lands that stand apart, where nature takes centre stage, distinguished by majestic snow-capped peaks and tranquil emerald waters. To tempt the appetite, here are just a handful of highlights you can see on APT’s 15-Day Rockies Icons and Alaska Cruise.

1/ Banff National Park

Banff is one of the world’s most breathtaking national parks, with no less than six mountain ranges, and lakes, rivers and forests as far as the eye can see. There are many ways to enjoy Banff, from a gondola ride to a helisightseeing excursion or a float trip along Bow River. And then you can soak in the scenery from your delightful Mountain View room in the “Castle in the Rockies”: the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel.

2/ Athabasca Glacier

While many great glaciers are tucked away in remote mountain ranges or accessible only by a long trek, Athabasca is one of the easiest to reach as it is

located just off the Icefields Parkway. Its accessibility allows for a magical ride across the giant glacier in an all-terrain Ice Explorer vehicle, including a stop to step onto the glacier.

3/ Canada’s Rocky Mountains

15 days of Rockies and rail

From top: Bow Lake, Banff; the Rocky Mountaineer passes Castle Mountain; cruise Glacier Bay.

Is there anything quite as magical as slipping through the countryside on a rail journey?

Especially when it’s exploring the Canadian Rockies’ storybook scenery. Board the Rocky Mountaineer train, sit back in GoldLeaf cabin comfort and gaze at the views from your bi-level glass-dome carriage. Trackside, you’ll enjoy one-of-a-kind outlooks including Hell’s Gate and Cisco Crossing and you arrive in style into Vancouver.

4/ Glacier Bay National Park

Discover how Canada’s heritage, mountains, glaciers and wildlife are just an introduction to the scenic drama that unfolds when you board a cruise ship from Vancouver bound for Alaska’s Glacier Bay National Park. Here, in the heart of Alaska’s coastal wilderness, some 13,520 square kilometres of mountains, fjords and glaciers are a haven for wildlife, from bears to whales and clouds of seabirds.

5/ Sail the Inside Passage

Alaska, a land of breathtaking beauty, offers an enchanting journey aboard your Holland America Line cruise through the scenic Inside Passage, where rocky headlands and icy waters create a picturesque sea lane. Juneau, the capital, nestled at the base of majestic mountain peaks, invites visitors to explore its stunning natural surrounds. Further up the passage, Skagway beckons with its historic Gold-Rush heritage buildings. Discover Alaska’s intriguing towns, indigenous villages and thrilling adventures amid raw wilderness bays and glacial fjords.

For more information, visit aptouring.com.au/ trips/canadaalaska/ut15jwbv CT 24

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22/8/2023 11:58 am

Canada and Alaska Book now for 2024

Rockies Icons and Alaska Cruise 15 Days – Calgary to Vancouver

Hubbard Glacier OR

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*Conditions apply. SEE: aptouring.com.au/SpecialDeals for full conditions. Book by 30 November 2023, unless sold out prior. Prices are per person (pp), AUD, twin share. Prices correct as at 1 August 2023. Price based on: 20 April 2024. Price includes all additional savings. DEPOSIT: A non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. ^Departure dates 20 April and 18 May 2024 will be in a Deluxe Mount Temple Room at Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. #20 April 2024 will be cruising to Hubbard Glacier. All other departures will be Glacier Bay. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation #A10825. APT-4116

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22/8/2023 11:59 am

Upfront

All-American luxury cruise line Seabourn has FINE •unveiled new fine-dining dishes and plans to roll FARE out two new recipes per week in The Restaurant,

the main venue on board all of its ships. There will be a focus on lighter fare and seafood. New appetisers include gratinated Champagne oysters with white leek and mushroom duxelles or fresh oysters on ice with caviar, sour cream and vodka. New mains include lobster en belle vue with lobster cream, quail egg, cherry tomatoes and cucumber. The cruise line will offer a nightly ‘Sushi in The Club’ aboard Seabourn Odyssey, Sojourn and Quest, serving fresh sushi bites and sakes in the lively lounge. It follows the popularity of the dedicated restaurant, Sushi, on Seabourn Encore and Ovation.

/ Rose among the thorns

T

wo grand buildings that were once the State Bank of Bavaria and the grand aristocratic residence Palais Neuhaus-Preysing will now house luxury hotel the Rosewood Munich.

Opening in September 2023 in the heart of the city’s Old Town, the hotel is handy to Marienplatz and the shopping district. The bank’s frescoes and vaulted ceilings have been preserved in the grand entrance hall to the hotel. Rooms will offer views of Munich’s skyline or the traditional central courtyard.

Alpine flavours from Austria and Italy with a nod to Old Bavaria is the ethos of its modern dining restaurant, Cuvilliés, while Bar Montez offers fine wines, German beers and cocktails accompanied by live music. The hotel also has a full-service Asaya spa and an indoor pool. The Rosewood Munich is the first German property from the hotel and resort group, and marks its seventh hotel in Europe.

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A DINING UTOPIA

• Royal Caribbean has been shy of releasing much detail about its new Oasis-class ship, Utopia of the Seas, but has let out an initial teaser. Set to start sailing in the Bahamas in July 2024, it will be the first LNG-powered Oasis Class ship. The technology will reduce carbon emissions by 30 per cent and nitrogen-oxide emissions by about 85 per cent. Royal Caribbean Blog reports that Senior Vice-President Jay Schneider said the ship will have “a mixed reality immersive dining experience with a train motif ... that’s going to blow people away”. Diners will sit in booths decorated as train carriages, as a storytelling dinner takes them on a voyage with ‘windows’ (digital displays) onto destinations.

Among more than 20 dining options, the ship will feature The Spare Tire, the line’s first food-truck-style eatery, on the pool deck. The latter will offer a resort-style experience and include a sloping beach-entry pool.

Cruise &Travel

23/8/2023 11:18 am

Introducing

Sun Princess

®

Friendship

Sun Princess is our largest-ever ship and she will accommodate 4,300 guests and boasts stunning views, innovative entertainment venues, multi-storey dining rooms and next level stateroom accommodations.

Sun Princess will sail an inaugural season of Mediterranean cruises from early 2024 followed by Western and Eastern Caribbean voyages.

SCAN TO VIEW FULL DETAILS OR VISIT https://www.princess.com/ ships-and-experience/ships/ su-sun-princess/

BOOK NOW | Visit your travel agent | 1300 159 654 | princess.com

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23/8/2023 4:01 pm

Upfront

PRICE CLASH in PARADISE A cruise in French Polynesia may well be within reach with great deals on holiday packages.

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price war has broken out in the beautiful lagoons and reefs of French Polynesia. Paul Gauguin Cruises, hybrid cargocruise line Aranui and sailing-ship company Windstar are offering deals through Tahiti Tourisme.

The tourism body, in a bid to attract cruise passengers, is promoting cruise holidays that include flights and pre-cruise hotel stays. A 14-night package, including an 11-night cruise, three nights’ accommodation on Tahiti and return economy airfares with Air Tahiti Nui, starts from $10,290 per person, twin share. You’ll stay at the InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa, before boarding the luxury cruise aboard Ponant-owned MS Paul Gauguin. The voyage visits the Cook and Society Islands.

An 11-night cruise on the dual-purpose passenger/freighter ship, Aranui 5, and a four-night hotel package starts from $9990.

Departing from Papeete, the voyage takes guests to some amazing destinations in French Polynesia, including the breathtaking landscapes of the Marquesas islands.

Meanwhile, get in quick: Windstar Cruises is pulling its sailing ship Wind Spirit from Tahiti after 35 years in the region. The last sailings are slated for January 2024. A 10-night package starts from $7799 and includes return economy airfares to Papeete with Air Tahiti Nui, three nights’ accommodation at the InterContinental Tahiti Resort and a seven-night sailing on Wind Spirit. The cruise visits Moorea, Raiatea, Tahaa, Bora Bora and Huahine.

Wind Spirit accommodates just 148 guests and the four-masted sailing yacht features wide-open teak decks and small hidden nooks for privacy. All staterooms have ocean views, queen beds and flatscreen TVs with a DVD player. The Owner’s Suite includes a sitting 28

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“Windstar Cruises is pulling its sailing ship Wind Spirit from Tahiti after 35 years.”

La orana

Snorkelling trip in the Society Islands with Paul Gauguin Cruises (left); Wind Spirit.

area. The ship’s Amphora restaurant offers gourmet, courseby-course cuisine in the evenings and Veranda restaurant offers casual buffet and full-service dining for breakfast and lunch. All dining is open seating. Wind Spirit amenities include the World Spa by Windstar, a water sports platform, lounge, library, pool and hot tub.

Aranui 5 is a custom-built, dual-purpose passengerfreighter ship designed to offer all of the comforts of a cruise ship, while operating as a supply ship. Aranui 5 is classified as a small vessel, accommodating approximately 230 passengers in 103 cabins. The décor pays homage to the line’s Polynesian heritage and on board, there is a restaurant, a lounge and conference rooms where guest lecturers speak about the Marquesas. There are also three bars, an outdoor swimming pool, a gym and even a tattoo studio at sea.

Paul Gauguin Cruises has been sailing the pristine waters of French Polynesia, Tahiti and South Pacific for 25 years.

Designed to sail through shallow lagoons, the elegant Paul Gauguin offers 330 guests a truly Polynesian experience.

Itineraries encourage guests to discover the traditional way of life and customs of Polynesia and the South Pacific.

For more details, see au.ponant.com, aranui.com and windstar.com.au. CT Cruise &Travel

23/8/2023 4:18 pm

Oceans 30 The cruise boom | 38 Silver Origin in Galapagos | 44 On Scenic Eclipse II

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Crystal Cruises

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22/8/2023 5:15 pm

Trends

C

ruise passenger bookings are booming with new ships arriving to deal with post-pandemic numbers, which are expected to surge in the latter part of the year and through to 2024.

“We’re gearing up for a big season here in Australia, and we have every reason to be optimistic about the future,” says Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) Managing Director in Australasia Joel Katz. “Cruising may have returned late to this part of the world, but we’re catching up fast.”

Cruising continues to be one of the fastest-growing sectors of global tourism, too, with 31.5 million passengers expected to board ocean-going cruise vessels in 2023, with that predicted to rise to 39.5 million by 2027, according to the CLIA 2023 “State of the Cruise Industry” report.

“Looking ahead, all signs suggest Australia’s cruise market will return to pre-pandemic levels at some stage over the coming season. And a busy season it will be,” says Katz.

“During the coming peak period between October and April we expect about 70 cruise ships to operate in Australian waters. That’s well above the 60 or so that had been scheduled over the summer of 2019-20.

“Together, these ships will call for 1848 port days in Australia.

Assuming they’re full, that represents more than 2.5 million passenger days in Australia.”

And the global cruise industry is counting on that growth to continue as dozens of new ships will also be launched over the next few years.

“One of the most exciting aspects of the coming season is the number of new ships and new cruise lines coming to Australian waters for the first time,” says Katz. Disney Cruise Line, Virgin Voyages and Scenic will all make maiden visits to local ports this summer.

Bookings for Disney Wonder were so successful for the 2023/24 season

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Australians can look forward to a bumper cruise season with some never-before-seen cruise lines and new ships coming to our shores, writes Grant Jones.

RIDE the WAVE

Cruise &Travel

23/8/2023 4:23 pm

“ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING ASPECTS OF THE COMING SEASON IS THE NUMBER OF NEW SHIPS ...

COMING TO AUSTRALIAN WATERS.”

that Disney has boosted its Disney Magic at Sea 2024/25 season.

The new sailings range from two to seven nights and again will depart from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Auckland.

“We were thrilled by the incredible response to our inaugural sailings in Australia and New Zealand and can’t wait to return in October 2024,” says Sharon Siskie, senior vice president and general manager of Disney Cruise Line. “We look forward to bringing the magic of Disney to this beautiful part of the world as we welcome both returning guests and those who are new to our special brand of family cruising.”

Katz says almost half a million Australians booked a cruise last season, even though there were limited options.

“In 2022, more than 457,000 Australians took an ocean cruise, a very positive start when you consider operations only returned locally in the middle of the year, and with a limited number of ships in the region,” he says.

“Things then accelerated swiftly. By the final quarter of the year, CLIA estimates the number of Australians cruising had reached 90 per cent of the levels seen in the same quarter of 2019, and this appears to have continued into 2023.”

Mega tours include Celebrity Cruise Line’s luxurious 40-night grand journey from Rome to Sydney, where Celebrity Edge, with its 170 suites and six villas, will debut in Australia and New Zealand waters for the first time. The ANZ market accounts for an impressive 80 per cent of Celebrity bookings, with 29 per cent booking luxury Concierge staterooms and above.

There is an array of itineraries, from six to 13 nights, on Celebrity Edge from early December 2023 through to April 2024, visiting 22 ports with departures from Sydney and Auckland.

This includes a first-time arrival in Darwin on December 2, along with a special welcome ceremony, as well as a new port visit to Kangaroo Island.

Novel by design

Clockwise, from main: Celebrity’s new Magic Carpet; Disney heads down under; Celebrity’s on-deck meditation and rooftop garden with float pools.

from October 2023 to September 2024. Ships including Royal Caribbean’s Quantum of the Seas, and Carnival Cruise Line’s Carnival Luminosa are also tying up in Brisbane, setting up direct competition with the ports of Sydney and Melbourne.

Of the other cruise lines, P&O, which is celebrating its 90th anniversary, will see more than 118 ship visits across Queensland from Brisbane-ported ship Pacific Encounter. Out of Sydney, Pacific Adventure will set sail on 58 voyages and by the end of 2023, she will have taken nearly 200,000 guests around Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific.

In Victoria, the ports of Melbourne, Geelong, Portland and Phillip Island are also expected to have bumper years.

A spokesperson for Ports Victoria said Melbourne’s coming season, 2023-24, is shaping up as its busiest yet, with 127 visits scheduled. The majority, 126, will call at Station Pier in Port Melbourne. This means about 350,000 passengers and crew will be visiting Melbourne and surrounds. In comparison, last season saw 112 cruise-ship visits to Melbourne.

The new season kicks off with Grand Princess arriving at Station Pier on October 23, 2023. Two cruise lines will visit Melbourne for the first time this year – Disney Cruise Line with Disney Wonder and Virgin Voyages with Resilient Lady. CT

/ PORTS OF CALL “Cruising is rebounding quickly in Australia, and spreading the economic benefits far around our coasts,” says Katz.

As a case in point, Port of Brisbane CEO Neil Stephens says, after 138 vessels and almost 650,000 passengers arrived at its new terminal in the first 12 months of operation, the port is now looking forward to a second successful season.

“Brisbane has experienced a remarkable cruise recovery, with Brisbane International Cruise Terminal welcoming 12 different cruise lines throughout the season,” says Stephens.

More than 160 vessels will berth at Brisbane International Cruise Terminal during the 2023/24 cruise season which runs Cruise&Travel

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Voyage

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Cruise &Travel

23/8/2023 11:23 am

Crystal

PALACE After 18 months out of service, a new owner and a US$170m overhaul of its two ships, Crystal Cruises is back.

And what a return, writes Sue Bryant.

White-gloved service

The Connoisseur Club cigar and spirits lounge (left) on board Crystal Serenity and its caviar service (above).

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24/8/2023 2:00 pm

Voyage

Concierge

/ What was your favourite meal on board?

Once the full menu is in operation, I imagine my favourite meal would be in Umi Uma. I don’t eat shellfish but I’ve had the vegetable tempura and the famous miso black cod before and they’re sublime.

On this cruise, the forest mushroom cappuccino in Waterside and the aubergine with buffalo mozzarella in the Osteria were my favourites.

CRYSTAL CRUISES

/ What’s a secret tip to know before sailing?

L

uxury cruise fans may remember that piled on top of the misery of the pandemic, Crystal Cruises’ parent, Genting Hong Kong, went bust in January 2022. Both of its larger ships, Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony, were seized in the Bahamas. Guests were sent home and the crew lost their jobs.

The timing was fortuitous for billionaire Manfredi Lefebvre d’Ovidio, the former owner of Silversea. The shipping magnate had sold Silversea to Royal Caribbean Group in 2018 and had acquired Abercrombie & Kent Travel Group. But out of the cruise industry, life wasn’t complete. “After I sold Silversea, I wanted another cruise line,” d’Ovidio told me. “I had admired Crystal for a long time.”

A&K Travel Group snapped up the two ships and put both through an extensive refit at the Fincantieri shipyard in Trieste. Serenity was the first to emerge, operating a preview cruise for travel trade and media before welcoming back its eager former guests.

What’s significant about the “new” Crystal Serenity is that its capacity has been reduced from 980 to 740, which gives a tremendous sense of space. Two entire decks were stripped back to the steel and rebuilt with two and sometimes three cabins being merged into one. I was in one of the 116 new Sapphire Veranda Suites, which are gorgeous, decked out in teal, stone and cream shades with a spacious marble-lined bathroom, a separate living area and a walk-in wardrobe. All cabins have butler service and the endlessly beaming Jijo arrived every afternoon with canapés that he’d handpicked for me as I don’t eat meat: crudites with dips, a mini Greek mezze and a cheese platter “just in case”.

Jijo is one of the astonishing 80 per cent of crew who have come back to Crystal. “I’ve been with Crystal Cruises for 19 years,” he said. “When they went bust, I got a job with another luxury line. I had just been offered another contract. But as soon as I got the email saying Crystal was relaunching, I told the new employer ‘No, sorry, I’m going back’. This ship is like my home.”

He’s not alone in his passion for Crystal. Some 60 per cent of passengers are repeat bookers. Many of the crew, including captain Birger Vorland, have been with the line for more than 20 years – essentially, since the beginning, when the ship was launched in 2002. Hotel director Scott Peterson says, “This is a family. I’ve never seen what we have here among the crew.

There are going to be a lot of happy tears when our guests walk up that gangway.”

Crystal regulars will quickly see the changes on board. Three restaurants have a completely new look, while others have changed in concept. The Bistro was busy all day with late breakfasters (not 34

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Make the most of your butler. They’ll pack and unpack, make restaurant and spa reservations and bring whatever you want for your minibar. Second tip: if you’re vegetarian or vegan, ask in Waterside for the veggie menu.

Feel the Serenity

Clockwise, from above left: Crystal Serenity in Moorea; Palm Court lounge; fine dining on board; the Sapphire Veranda Suite.

/ What was your favourite experience?

Sailing away from Venice was really special. Even though the ship was docked in grotty Fusina (now that bigger ships can no longer sail through Venice), the mood was fantastic. A sultry summer night, a cool saxophone player, gin cocktails hand-crafted by the bartender, canapes and a real party buzz made this a departure to remember.

The Verdict / Highs

Without doubt, the friendly and intuitive service, throughout the whole crew.

Every cabin has butler service, which is a real treat.

/ Lows

There are just a few areas where the ship is showing its age, so don’t go expecting absolutely everything to be shiny and new.

/ Verdict

A welcome comeback from a much-loved line with exciting innovations to look forward to.

Cruise &Travel

22/8/2023 1:06 pm

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22/8/2023 12:26 pm

Voyage CRYSTAL CRUISES

surprising, as the Marketplace buffet closed at a rather stingy 9am on one day of the trip) and people meeting for coffee and gossip. Tastes, a leafy space on the top deck, offers pizza, pasta, salads and noodles – a change from the Genting days, when it focused on Asian comfort food.

What used to be Prego is a new Italian named after the chairman, Osteria d’Ovidio, with an edgier menu focusing on regional Italian cuisine and developed with Stefano di Gennaro, a Michelinstarred chef from southern Italy. Crystal has hired a head of nutrition to combat the salty, creamy nature of cruise food and the dishes feel less rich; I had a delicious sea bass with a tarragon glaze.

One of Crystal’s great culinary coups has been its association with Chef Nobu Matsuhisa, whose Umi Uma sushi and Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant is one of the great dining experiences at sea. Every passenger gets to dine here once per cruise at no cost, which is extraordinary value given that the famous Miso Black Cod alone costs $65 at Nobu Sydney.

The pool area is new, too, surrounded by sun-warmed teak (no tacky astroturf here), squashy double loungers with cushions in burnt orange and aquamarine adding a splash of colour. There’s a spacious new spa, Aurōra, and the two Wimbledon courts remain on the upper deck, offering paddle tennis and pickleball, which have been a feature on Crystal’s ships long before either sport became the leisure activity of hipsters.

Something that I don’t think is working yet is the Lounge, a rather bleak space where the casino used to be. It’s understandable that A&K Travel Group wants to distance itself from Genting, which was in the casino business, and the casino was, we were told, not profitable anyway. But a use needs to be found for this area; apparently, the line looked at a show kitchen and a gin distillery, but neither were possible given the constraints of the space. The high-rollers’ room, too, has changed; it’s a logo-wear shop now.

“The party in the Avenue Saloon, a dark and moody piano bar, went on to the small hours.”

O

ne problem with ultra-luxury ships is that the nightlife can be unexciting. Crystal has been smart enough to create intimate venues that don’t require a huge crowd and the party in the Avenue Saloon, a dark and moody piano bar, went on to the small hours, revellers spilling out and heading for the Pulse nightclub across the corridor. Others would nip into the next-door Connoisseur Club, an ultra-luxe cigar lounge. The shows are good, too, from the brief taste we had, not least a foot-stomping Billy Joel tribute by Broadway star James Fox. And for those who prefer more traditional evening entertainment, Crystal’s much-loved dance hosts are being brought back.

As for what happens ashore, A&K Travel Group is promising a new era of exciting shore excursions and pre- and post-cruise add-ons, tying in with its

Big nights out

From top: Crystal’s piano bar is named the Avenue Saloon; a Aquamarine Veranda Suite; Broadway-style performances in the Galaxy Lounge.

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vast network of destination management companies, lodges, riverboats and safari camps. These are being rolled out over the next year or so but already, there are enticing offerings on the revamped Crystal website: a beekeeping tour in St Lucia or a visit to a craft beer producer in St Kitts. In Dubai, there’s hot-air ballooning over the desert or sunrise yoga on a sand dune, and in Mumbai, a cookery class with a local Parsi family, in which guests will learn to prepare a wedding banquet. The “voluntourism” excursions that the old Crystal offered will be revived, too.

Who you’ll meet on board may change from the old days, despite the fact that 60 per cent of passengers are repeaters.

A&K Travel Group is aiming at a younger customer now, moneyed empty-nesters from 55 to 65. To an extent, families, too; there’s even a kids’ club on board.

The company is planning a big push to expand the Australasian and Asian markets. “Australia was not significant for Crystal before but it was for A&K,” explains Cristina Levis, CEO of A&K Travel Group. “I really believe now that Australia can become our third market after the USA and the UK, and overtake Europe.” The presence of Crystal Symphony in Australia and New Zealand in late 2023 and early 2024 will no doubt be a massive boost to Crystal’s visibility, too.

The company may well need to tap its 1.2 million database to find new-to-cruise passengers, as while we were on board, a massive expansion plan was announced. By 2029, Levis told me, the plan is to have four new ships in service, two classic ocean-going vessels carrying about 650 passengers each and two sleek expedition ships, carrying 220 each. Construction on the first expedition ship will start this autumn. Crystal is certainly back – and stronger than ever. CT Cruise &Travel

23/8/2023 11:28 am

Saint Laurent Rive Gauche tote, AU$2920.

Thom Browne polo shirt, AU$479.

Luxury cruising

Trunk Show

Alemais ‘Guardian’ skirt, AU$1040.

Sea ‘Kyle’ silk dress, AU$912.

Maison Michel ‘Kate’ fedora, AU$891.

16Arlington crepe dress, AU$1658.

Vilebrequin swim shorts, AU$395.

Loewe ‘Paseo’ leather bag, AU$3400.

Thom Sweeney linen suit, AU$3122.

Tom Ford ‘Joanna’ sunnies, AU$510.

Camperlab ‘Yakari’ loafers AU$442.

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Gucci GG silk blouse, AU$2600.

Floyd cabin suitcase, AU$645.

Jimmy Choo Gal 130 wedges, AU$844.

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22/8/2023 12:53 pm

Voyage

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STATE OF ORIGIN

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A visit to the Galapagos Islands is like being in a real-time nature documentary. Jeannine Williamson sets sail on Silver Origin – a special ship in an exceptional destination.

In Darwin’s footsteps

Left: Marine iguanas in the Galapagos Islands.

Above: Zodiac excursion from Silversea’s Silver Origin.

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t the end of the snorkel session, I clambered out of the Zodiac, with a welcome helping hand to steady me, and made my way across the landing platform. A butler was waiting with a fluffy towel, robe and the option of a glass of Champagne or juice or a cup of tea. Already heady from the exhilarating swimming expedition, I couldn’t resist the glass of bubbles.

Scattered nearly 1000 kilometres off the Ecuadorian coastline, the Galapagos Islands are like nowhere else in the world. Here you can experience British naturalist Charles Darwin’s extraordinary story of evolution firsthand and I felt as amazed as he must have been when he arrived in 1835 aboard the scientific exploration vessel HMS Beagle. His subsequent revolutionary book, On the Origin of Species, challenged the commonly held belief of the survival of the fittest and demonstrated how creatures that are the most adaptable are the ones that endure.

Earlier that morning our small group had been surrounded by playful and curious sea lions, diving past just a couple of metres away. Later we gazed down at a green turtle flapping languidly by against a kaleidoscopic backdrop of neon-bright yellowtail sturgeon fish. We were totally immersed in a real-time nature documentary and it’s an absolute guarantee that anyone visiting this remote archipelago will have close-up wildlife encounters.

However, only on Silversea will you return to the welcome we received after snorkelling, and indeed any other excursion we ventured out on during the week-long sailing on Silver Origin.

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Voyage

“I took hundreds of photos as dragon-like iguanas ... basking sea lions and bright Sally Lightfoot crabs formed a never-ending wildlife parade.”

SILVER ORIGIN IN THE GALAPAGOS

The 100-passenger ship paved the way for the next generation of Silversea vessels. Replacing Silver Galapagos, which was converted to sail to the protected islands, Silver Origin was Silversea’s first destination-specific ship designed to bring the line’s signature all-inclusive style of cruising to a bucket list destination.

With the highest crew-to-guest ratio in the Galapagos, it’s the only ship in the region to feature butler service to every suite. As well as providing the highest level of creature comforts to guests, it was equally designed with the environment in mind. At the 2022 christening, the celebratory bottle of Champagne that was cracked across the hull was wrapped in a protective net to stop glass from falling into the sea. Additionally, Silversea launched the Silversea Fund for the Galapagos to support a range of local education and conservation projects, and recently became the first tour operator to gain certification for its environmental management program in the archipelago.

During my time aboard, I also discovered the ship, which is at sea year-round and never calls into a port, has a dynamic positioning system allowing it to stay in one place without needing to drop anchor in the delicate seabed.

All suites are ocean-view, with Silversea’s first-ever all-weather horizon balconies, where a large panoramic window drops down to create an ‘indoor patio’ with a table and chairs that can be sectioned off from the room.

T

he hub of Silver Origin is Basecamp, where the largest LED screen in the Galapagos provides interactive information about the islands dramatically shaped by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. Each day we’d gather in Basecamp for daily excursions, excited about the ever-changing adventures that lay ahead. There was always time to chat with members of the expedition team, all Ecuadorian and armed with an encyclopaedic knowledge of the islands.

Galapagos tourism is stringently regulated and only one ship at a time is allowed at each destination. Silver Origin has eight Zodiacs so the staggered tours made everything seem even more intimate and special.

There were Zodiac and kayaking trips hugging craggy headlands to watch incredible and incongruous birdlife. Blue-footed boobies, with their dazzling feet,

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Must-dos on Silver Origin

Clockwise, from above: Hop in a Zodiac from the aft Marina Platform; learn on Basecamp’s big screen; bathe with an ocean view; see blue-footed boobies and penguins.

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rubbed shoulders with the Galapagos penguin, first swept over from Antarctica on the one-way Humboldt Current. Over the centuries they’ve developed thin plumage and a curious leaning stance to protect their feet from the sun. More strikingly adapted are flightless cormorants. With no predators, they don’t need to fly from danger so their stubby wings are only used for balance as they hop across the rocks before plunging into the sea like black arrows to hunt for fish.

There were similarly diverse encounters as we continued the voyage to populated and uninhabited islands. As the animals have no fear of humans, I took hundreds of photos as dragonlike iguanas, lava lizards that communicate through intriguing reptilian push-ups, basking sea lions and bright Sally Lightfoot crabs formed a never-ending wildlife parade.

Back on board, we swapped tales of the day’s exploits over cocktails in the lounge or around the cosy faux fire pit. Meals were another eagerly anticipated highlight.

There’s a main restaurant and al fresco top deck Grill, which can be enclosed on chillier days. In keeping with Silversea’s sustainability ethos, menus centred on locally produced food, such as artisanal cheeses from San Cristobal, the easternmost Galapagos island.

At the start of the sailing, we were given a personal watersports kit from sizes submitted ahead of the cruise; a thoughtful and timesaving exercise. At the end of the cruise, we got to keep the high-quality snorkel mask and tube. Another Silversea touch that makes this very special ship stand out in an equally exceptional destination. CT

The Verdict / Favourite Meal

Half the produce served on Silver Origin comes from the islands and the rest from Ecuador. Tangy fish and vegetarian ceviche is a South American staple and it tasted even more delicious and authentic after the executive chef hosted a cookery class on how to make it.

/ Favourite Excursion

The biggest sight, in every sense, is the giant Galapagos tortoise. Like many other species, they can’t be found anywhere else on Earth. The trip to Montemar Tortoise Reserve on Santa Cruz provided the chance to learn about lumbering reptiles originally swept over on sea currents from the mainland.

/ Fun Fact

The ship’s extensive use of glass to maximise views continues in the suites. At the touch of a button, the mirror becomes a window and the ocean-view showers and bathtubs are part of the living space. If you’re not shy, it’s the closest you’ll get to sharing bathtime with a passing sea lion.

/ Bookings

Silver Origin sails two alternating seven-night cruises in the Galapagos.

All-inclusive door-to-door fares start from AU$11,150 and pre- and post-cruise extensions are available. silversea.com

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Voyage

INTRODUCING SILVER NOVA: A SHIP OF MANY FIRSTS

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aunching in August, Silversea’s new flagship combines all of the line’s trademarks with a new way of luxury cruising. The name is derived from the Latin word “novus”, meaning new, and the ground-breaking 728-passenger ship is the largest in the fleet, the first where every cabin has a balcony and the most eco-friendly.

That’s only the start. Silver Nova, the first Nova-class vessel, features an all-new horizontal design. Replacing the Silversea tradition of having accommodation at the front of the ship and entertainment venues at the back, suites and public areas run the entire length of the ship to create long, continuous areas. The eight restaurants include the S.A.L.T. (Sea and Land Taste) culinary program highlighting food and wine from destinations cruises visit.

Designed to connect guests to the sea, there are large areas of glass – including lifts with glass walls overlooking the ocean – providing expansive views. Instead of having a covered swimming pool in the middle of the pool deck, which is the norm, Silver Nova’s pool has been reimagined and is open to one side of the ship to create an area with unobstructed views. There’s also an infinity-edge whirlpool.

First look

Clockwise, from above: Artist’s impressions of the Silver Nova, the ship’s stunning three-storey atrium and the luxury 270-degree-view Otium Suite.

The first Silversea vessel constructed at Germany’s Meyer Werft shipyard, Silver Nova boasts a host more firsts when it comes to sustainable cruising. It is the first in the fleet powered by liquefied natural gas, currently the cleanest marine fuel. It’s also on course to achieve an ocean cruise industry first and be completely emissionfree when docked in port. Where shore power is unavailable the generators will be shut down and power will be supplied through fuel cells and batteries.

Silversea describes Silver Nova as the “most environmentally conscious ultra-luxury cruise ship ever built” and says the new hybrid technology will allow the vessel to achieve an overall 40 per cent reduction in its greenhouse gas emissions per double suite when compared to earlier Muse-class vessels.

During the maiden season, Silver Nova will sail on 20 itineraries across 50 countries and 100 destinations in the Mediterranean, Caribbean and South America. In 2024, the ship will be in South America, the Caribbean and Central America. / Bookings Silver Nova will be in the Mediterranean until October 2023, before crossing the Atlantic. All-inclusive door-to-door fares start from $11,400 for seven nights, Lisbon to Barcelona. See silversea.com.

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23/8/2023 11:36 am

Toteme organic-cotton women’s shorts, AU$480.

Patagonia R1 TechFace men’s jacket, AU$269.95.

Mountain Warehouse men’s rashie, AU$26.99.

Galapagos

Trunk Show

North Face beanie, AU$55.

Muuñ Minette bucket bag, AU$455.

Klean Kanteen TKWide, AU$78.95.

Matteau organic-silk shirt, AU$596.

Macpac C3 Trekker poles, AU$199.99.

Kathmandu ULT-Hike women’s pants, AU$139.98.

XTM Performance Stash rain poncho, AU$14.95.

Extreme Storm women’s boots, AU$170.99.

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Osprey Mira 32L pack, AU$339.95.

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22/8/2023 1:05 pm

Voyage

Landed it

Heli-tours from Scenic Eclipse II in the Kimberley.

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23/8/2023 11:39 am

Mission: possible

Creating a sequel to the Eclipse, the world’s first discovery yacht, was always going to be difficult. But Sue Bryant finds Australian shipbuilder Glen Moroney has nailed it.

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Voyage

I

SCENIC ECLIPSE II

f the original Scenic Eclipse caused ripples in luxury expedition cruising, its new sister, Scenic Eclipse II, is likely to create even bigger waves. Scenic Eclipse II is very much an expedition ship for travellers who want no compromise on luxury. A selection of 100 included whiskies while you’re in Antarctica? Done. Access to a beautiful spa area after a busy day ashore? All yours. A choice in the evenings of five restaurants? Every night.

Scenic’s second “discovery yacht” is a near-carbon copy of the original, but with tweaks and improvements in the spa, pools, bars and top suites. The décor is different, too, but still reflects the chic boutique hotel vision of Karen Moroney, wife of Scenic founder Glen Moroney, and the interiors whizz inside both ships.

You won’t find science labs and photos of polar explorers on Scenic Eclipse II, but rather, bright contemporary art and banks of mauve bougainvillea (artificial but impressive looking) to add pops of colour to the glossy black, silver, stone, taupe and cream palette. But while the ship is a luxury yacht from bow to stern, it’s certainly an expedition vessel.

The hull is Polar Class 6, for nudging through the Antarctic ice, and the Bond-style toys on the ship include two sleek, black helicopters, a six-passenger submarine, a marina platform for launching kayaks and paddle boards, and a fleet of Zodiacs. All the toys are stashed in a hidden hangar, so the graceful lines of the yacht aren’t compromised by stacks of Zodiacs cluttering the decks.

These gadgets will come into their own in 2024, too, when the ship makes the transition from Antarctica to the Kimberley, where it will operate a season of voyages between Darwin and Broome. Expect 46

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Luxury expedition

Clockwise, from above: The Sky Bar; Asian-fusion restaurant Koko’s; the Sky Deck; Pilates Studio; Night Market @ Koko’s; Scenic Eclipse II’s sailaway from Lisbon.

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helicopter rides over pristine landscapes, access to ancient Aboriginal sites (with full permission from the local Elders, of course) and everything from heli-hiking to helibarramundi fishing. Barbecue lunches on uninhabited islands will simply add to the superyacht lifestyle.

So, what’s changed? The décor is a little different, yes, but the biggest improvement is the addition of a plunge pool on Deck 10, replacing the twin hot tubs on Scenic Eclipse. Let’s be clear: this isn’t a swimming pool, but it’s a decent size for wallowing and has assorted jets. Scenic may have to rethink the artificial grass around the edge when the ship is in the tropics: my cruise circled Spain in early summer, and even then we all burned our feet on it.

There’s a chic little bar, the Sky Bar, next to the plunge pool, done out in sumptuous cream marble. I’m not sure Scenic knows yet what to make of this. The bar (along with six cabanas and a giant superyacht-style bunny pad for sunbathing) creates a gorgeous top-deck area for sun lovers. But it closes at 5pm, just when you want to enjoy the golden light of “magic hour”. The hotel director told me it could be opened on demand and quite a few passengers said they would mention the early closure on their guest surveys.

Dining / Favourite meal

Without doubt, at Night Market @ Koko’s: in fact, this was one of the best meals I’ve ever had on land or at sea. The theme changes every couple of days and was Filipino when I tried the restaurant. The enchantingly named Chef Strawberry chops, fries, rolls and blow-torches, creating dish after dish of heaven: guacamole with crispy garlic; cured salmon with tamarind; shrimp with burned aubergine; duck confit with green peas and spicy mayo – keeping up a running explanation of the provenance of each ingredient and its place in her native cuisine.

/ Tips for sailing on Scenic Eclipse II

Book your specialty dining as soon as you board, as all the restaurants fill up fast. If you don’t follow a special diet (some of the dishes require elaborate preparation, so they need notice) you can try for a cancellation. Otherwise, if you want a table for two, Koko’s is the best bet; Elements has hardly any, and sharing is encouraged.

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The spa’s thermal suite area is one of the best at sea and it’s complimentary to use. There’s a large steam room, a salt therapy lounge, a sauna with a window and blissful KLAFS infra-red seats, a dream for sufferers of back pain. Men and women use separate areas, which is a shame if you want to enjoy the spa with your oppositesex partner, but you can always use the different spaces and meet up in the bubbling hot tub at the front. I really wanted to try aerial yoga (yoga moves in big hammocks) when I was on board, but the instructor was off sick, so I settled for cycling, kayaking and hiking in each port to stay active.

I loved the suites on Scenic Eclipse II; genuinely spacious from entry-level upwards, with soothing grey, taupe, cream and silver colours, gauzy curtains and effective blackout blinds – essential when the ship is in polar regions with near 24-hour daylight. Sometimes the suites are a bit too posh, though: there’s no

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Voyage

Wrap-up / Highs

The impressive range of excursions and activities that are included in the price – as is everything else, for that matter, from drinks and speciality dining to WiFi and tips. You really don’t put your hand in your pocket all cruise, except to pay for helicopter and sub rides, and spa treatments.

/ Lows

The ship slightly lacks a sense of connection to the outdoors, which could be an issue in polar regions.

While the deck in front of the Observation Lounge is wide open with uninterrupted views, it’s not protected from winds.

“Bond-style toys include two sleek, black helicopters, a six-passenger submarine ... and a fleet of Zodiacs.”

/ Verdict

A sleek and beautiful ship with no compromise on luxury; this is expedition cruising with all the frills.

SCENIC ECLIPSE II

drying line for swimwear, for example, so we draped ours over the balcony chairs, lowering the tone of the yachting lifestyle. Note that when the ship is in the polar regions, there’s a spacious mud room for hanging expedition jackets and stashing mud boots.

Dining was generally very good. Scenic Eclipse II has two main restaurants and one casual spot open for dinner, as well as three specialty restaurants and the big ticket, the invitation-only Chef’s Table, offering high-end molecular cuisine. You have to be a VIP, a serial cruiser or a big spender to qualify for a seat.

The specialty Night Market @ Koko’s and the Frenchthemed Lumiere are both excellent: secure bookings as soon as you board, as repeat travellers in the know snap them up quickly. Sushi at Koko’s is in a lovely setting, with big picture windows and sushi and sashimi prepared by a sushi chef, with ingredients sourced from Japan.

As well as Italian/steak-themed Elements and Asianfusion Koko’s, there’s a casual restaurant with outside seating for burgers and pasta, Azure Café, which is a great

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Tech toys

From top: Scenic Eclipse II’s submersible; the Senses Spa has heated infrared chairs; the supersized bathroom in the Owner’s Penthouse Suite.

spot for a quiet dinner on a warm night. It’s a shame the main buffet, the Yacht Club, isn’t open in the evenings, as the lunch and breakfast buffets were excellent.

I like the fact that the entertainment on board is low key but high quality. We certainly got lucky with two young singers who doubled up as cruise director and assistant cruise director. Both were trained in classical musical theatre and their individual shows, which covered anything from Rat Pack to popular opera, were superb. Better still, we were summoned to the helipad one sunny evening for a “surprise” – a sunset operatic performance, with cocktails flowing. Scenic really does these exclusive events well.

Your experience ashore on Scenic Eclipse II will depend very much on where you are in the world. In polar regions and the Kimberley, there will be a full schedule of expedition-style exploration. For regions in between, there’s an impressive program of very good excursions, at no charge. I learned to make cheese at an organic farm in Ibiza, kayaked the wild coast near Cartagena, cycled off-road in rural Menorca and pedalled around bike-friendly Seville with an excellent guide.

While I could see the expedition leaders champing at the bit to get up to Spitsbergen and Greenland – the cruising area for the next couple of months – for some “proper” adventure, I’d say Scenic Eclipse II was just as well suited to conventional warm water cruising as to expedition. If you love luxury, acres of space, and included booze and fine dining with your adventures, you won’t be disappointed. CT Cruise &Travel

23/8/2023 11:46 am

Etro ‘Capello’ silk hat, AU$604.

Sylvia Toledano cuff bracelet, AU$616.

Thierry Lasry ‘Darksidy’ sunnies, AU$494.

Etro cottonterry towel, AU$471.

Trunk Show Yacht

Bode ‘Garden State Vacation’ shirt, AU$909.

Erdem Vacation dress, AU$2260.

Heimat Atlantica tote, AU$708.

Globe-Trotter ‘Centenary’ cabin suitcase, AU$3308.

Borgo De Nor ‘Dani’ dress, AU$989.

The Resort Co espadrilles, AU$267.

Dior DiorClub V1U tinted visor, AU$680.

Frescobol beach bat set, AU$396.

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21/8/2023 4:07 pm

BRUGES (ZEEBRUGGE)

• •ANTWERP

RAVENNA

•

•

URBINO (ANCONA)

• PARIS (HONFLEUR)

SPLIT

•

BREST

•KOTOR

ISTANBUL

•

CORFU

•

ATHENS (PIRAEUS)

• KATAKOLON

EPHESUS (KUSADASI)

•

•

•

•

SANTORINI HERAKLION (CRETE)

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•

PONT-AVEN (CONCARNEAU)

LA CORUÑA

•ST. PETER PORT (GUERNSEY)

• •NANTES (MONTOIR-DE-BRETAGNE)

BILBAO

BIARRITZ (SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ) • • • • SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA (VILAGARCÍA)

•OPORTO

SAINT-TROPEZ MONTE CARLO PORTOFINO • • •TUSCANY (LIVORNO)

PROVENCE (MARSEILLE)

•• • ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA) • • OLBIA/PORTO CERVO • (SARDINIA) ALICANTE • • • MAHÓN (MENORCA) • PALMA DE MALLORCA BARCELONA

IBIZA GRANADA (MOTRIL)

•LISBON

21/8/2023 4:07 pm

C RUIS E AT YO U R OW N PAC E THRO U GH E U RO P E

Enjoy the onboard pool

Relax with onboard yoga

Explore town & cities on bikes

CLASSIC EUROPE • FRANCE • PORTUGAL Our innovative fleet of eight award-winning Star-Ships in Europe with just 112-180 guests at any one time, will allow you to cruise through the rivers of Europe at your pace.

Savour the local European flavours with delicious meals included plus complimentary wine & beer*. Choose to explore quaint villages or take a dip in the on-board pool. Join a morning yoga class or sip on a coffee on the Sun Deck and watch the scenery drift by. End your day by relaxing in your spacious suite with floor-to-ceiling river views.

13 Day Budapest to Prague River Cruise with 3 bonus nights in Prague from $4,395 per person twin share* For more information visit emeraldcruises.com.au or call 1300 211 387. *Conditions apply. FULL conditions visit emeraldcruises.com.au. Price per person twin share based on ECHP 08/08/24 in Category E Stateroom including Earlybird and Pay in Full discounts.

Valid on new bookings only. A non-refundable booking deposit of $1,000 per person is due at time of booking. Subject to availability correct as of 12/07/23 and subject to change. Emerald Cruises (a division of Scenic Tour Pty Ltd). ABN 85 002 715 602. Booking code: EVMA189.

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23/8/2023 4:30 pm

Rivers 54 Best time to cruise | 58 News from the river | 60 Along the Moselle

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Avalon Waterways

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River Trends

The BEST TIME to TAKE a RIVER CRUISE

The window of opportunity to experience river cruises has just become a whole lot wider, writes Teresa Ooi.

O

nce it was spring sailing on the popular Amsterdam-toBudapest route, kicking off in March, April and May; summer sailing on the Seine and the twinkling Christmas markets on the Danube or the Rhine. Now you also have autumn sailings on the Nile River.

Traditionally, spring and autumn are optimal for a river cruise, with fewer tourists, cooler temperatures and lower prices. And almost everything is still open and easier to see without having to battle the crowds.

River cruising is weather dependent and too high or too low water levels can make or break a river ship’s itinerary.

While the typical river cruise season is from May to October, there are usually fewer options in the depths of winter, especially after the festive season.

Shorter days and cold temperatures make it more difficult to enjoy outdoor activities – especially during January and February in Europe.

On the other hand, if you want to explore Asia, the best time for a Mekong cruise is from November to February when the weather is cooler and drier.

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If you are thinking of a Mississippi River cruise, the weather in New Orleans during summer gets very hot and uncomfortable. The best time to go on a river cruise with Viking on the lower Mississippi River is in April and May or September and October.

Nowadays, right around the world, you can go on a river cruise whenever you want and wherever you want. It all depends on what type of river you would like to experience and which part of the world most appeals.

/ When is the best time to take a river cruise in Europe?

When Europe gets out of the dark and dismal doldrums of winter and its springtime again, everything wakes up.

It’s also the best time to see windmills and endless rows of amazing-coloured tulips in Holland and Belgium.

From March to May, the region’s gardens and fields are bursting with blooms and swathed in vibrant varieties of tulips. It’s one of the best times to embark on a river cruise and explore splendid spring scenery.

Because it’s not quite peak season, cruise prices are usually lower during spring. And you may get a good deal.

However, while temperatures are mild, spring weather can be unpredictable.

And unfortunately, you might experience spring rains and windy days.

Time it right

Clockwise, from left: The Christmas markets of Vienna; Arles on the Rhone, France; the Temple of Karnak on the Nile, Egypt; tulip fields of Holland in autumn.

history of Northern Italy and Venice, and explore its waterfront shops and peaceful canals. The cruise also visits Burano, Mazzorbo and Torcello.

/ Summer in France

As the weather warms up and the sun sets late in the evening, it is time to discover attractive vineyards and lavender fields in summer. From Paris to Provence and Beaujolais to Burgundy,

/ Spring in Italy

Luxury line Uniworld Boutique River Cruises’ eight-day Venice & the Jewels of Veneto cruise is lovely in spring.

On this itinerary, you will witness the enchanting beauty and breathtaking Cruise &Travel

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soak up France’s best sights as you cruise along the Seine and Rhone rivers. Avalon Waterways has a 15-day Grand France itinerary from Paris to Arles where you can enjoy wine, cheese and drinking in the gorgeous views as you sail on the Seine. You will stop in the most charming and historic parts of France.

In Vernon, you can take a guided tour of Claude Monet’s gardens. You can also visit the historic Normandy Landing beaches, the Gothic cathedral of Rouen and, when you are back in Paris, take in the iconic sights of the Louvre Museum and the Arc de Triomphe.

/ Autumn in Egypt

As temperatures drop and autumn approaches, it is the best time to explore Egypt and sail the mesmerising Nile River. Viking has a 12-day Pharaohs & Pyramids cruise from October 4-15, 2024. On this itinerary, you can see the pyramids while riding a camel – or visit Cruise&Travel

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the Temple of Karnak and Queen Nefertiti’s tomb in the Valley of the Kings.

/ The Festive Season

When the year draws to a close, you can immerse yourself in Europe’s dazzling holiday season on a festive river cruise to see the magical Christmas markets in towns along the Danube. Uniworld has a 13-day Grand Christmas & New Year’s cruise departing on December 22 this year from Nuremberg to Budapest. The itinerary sails across Germany, Austria and Hungary along the shimmering Danube. You will explore charming old-world villages and Gothic cathedrals.

You can escape the hassle of the holiday season as you relax on the luxurious ship and celebrate Christmas Eve in medieval Regensburg and ring in the New Year in Vienna – then wander through film locations from The Sound of Music in Salzburg and warm up with a rum-laced coffee. CT 55

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Collaboration

UNIWORLD BOUTIQUE RIVER CRUISES

Inspiring JOURNEYS

Luxury, boutique river cruise line Uniworld knows exactly how to make guests feel special – especially when it comes to shore excursions, writes Teresa Ooi.

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hen you step on board a Uniworld Boutique River Cruises ship, you will be in for a holiday of a lifetime. Not only is each cruise itinerary meticulously crafted to be an experience you won’t find elsewhere, filled with one breathtaking moment after another, but Uniworld has also gone the extra mile to ensure guests can fully immerse themselves in the authentic culture, sights and cuisine of each destination they visit.

In every port, Uniworld offers a carefully curated selection of shore excursions that are included in the cruise fare. Many of these excursions are exclusive to Uniworld, offering special access to the most sought-

Uniworld in Europe

Clockwise, from left: Budapest from the sundeck; Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna; bike-riding in Engelhartszell; cheers! in Bamberg; Pont du Gard aqueduct visit.

after tourist attractions. It may be a private viewing of a popular monument, a special event like a private concert, or an after-hours tour of a historic site such as the Taj Mahal. How special is that?

Through its Make Travel Matter Experiences, Uniworld is a supporter of sustainable tourism, local communities and wildlife. Uniworld also offers a range of unusual experiences in its Masterpiece Collection, which can be booked at an extra cost.

They include visiting the Spanish Riding School in Vienna or learning how to cook in a French chateau.

Uniworld strives for culinary excellence, where cooking is elevated to the next level as a delicious art form. Local wines and beers along with fresh ingredients are sourced from destinations the ship visits and the menu reflects the region where the ship sails. From Wiener schnitzel to Portuguese bacalhau or tandoori chicken tikka, guests will savour a smorgasbord of delectable cuisine.

Uniworld offers all-inclusive itineraries with unlimited premium spirits and wines, five-star farm-to-table cuisine and a choice of curated shore excursions. All onboard gratuities, internet and WiFi access, and airport transfers are included.

The following are some of the highlights of Uniworld’s shore excursions.

/ Included shore excursions

All Uniworld river cruises have excursions which are included in the cruise fare. These may include: visiting a village to get an in-depth look at how the 56

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locals live; active tours where guests can go walking, hiking, cycling, kayaking or golfing; or experiencing life like a local by taking a ride on the subway or stopping at a café for a local treat.

/ Nights Out Excursions

Uniworld also offers evening excursions which may include an after-hours visit to a museum or landmark where you can wander around and take in the joys of listening to a guide talk about its historical significance without the crowds. For instance, on a cruise itinerary to Milan and Venice, guests can join an after-hours tour of St Mark’s Basilica where they are allowed inside to watch the building’s gilded interiors during a special lighting ceremony.

To learn more about Vienna’s musical history, Uniworld arranges private concerts in the beautiful Albert Hall to listen to compositions by two of the city’s most famous musicians, Mozart and Strauss. If you are sailing from Amsterdam to Basel, you can sample some of the best beers in all of Switzerland at the Feldschlösschen Brewery.

In Amsterdam, Uniworld has a private, evening canal cruise like no other. This excursion will appeal to sailing enthusiasts keen to experience a relaxing time learning about Holland’s waterways and flood barriers.

In Bordeaux’s Bassins des Lumieres, guests can enjoy an evening light show projected against the walls of a former World War ll submarine base, which is now an arts precinct.

/ Masterpiece Collection

Uniworld’s exclusive Masterpiece Collection offers unique experiences booked for an extra cost that go above and beyond the line’s included tours.

To take in the natural beauty of the Wachau Valley, you can go on an intimate sailing on a small boat to taste local wines. This excursion is available on Uniworld’s Danube & Prague, Grand Central Europe and Authentic Danube itineraries.

In Bordeaux, you can hop in the sidecar of a retro motorbike and ride through the streets of the city, taking in its charming sights as the sun sets. It features on the Brilliant Bordeaux, A Portrait of Majestic France and Ultimate France itineraries.

For cooking fans, there’s nothing like signing up for a cooking class where you can learn the secrets of vinegar from a chef in his 300-year-old home – which sports a very modern kitchen – Cruise&Travel

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“AN AFTERHOURS VISIT ... WHERE YOU CAN TAKE IN THE JOYS OF LISTENING TO A GUIDE TALK ABOUT ITS HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE WITHOUT THE CROWDS.”

in a village near Doktorenhof. This excursion is available on the following itineraries: Castles Along the Rhine; Magnificent Moselle & Rhine; Remarkable Rhine & Historic Holland; and Rhine Holiday Markets.

Guests on the Splendors of Egypt & the Nile cruise can take the Masterpiece Collection experience of a short flight to visit the extraordinary Temples of Abu Simbel where an Egyptologist will guide you through the history of the site.

/ Make Travel Matter Experiences

One of the joys of cruising with Uniworld is that you know you are travelling with purpose and supporting sustainable tourism. When choosing to take one of Uniworld’s Make Travel Matter Experiences, guests can engage in projects that help local communities. These tours and experiences are endorsed by industry experts and advance the Global Goals of the United Nations.

Make Travel Matter Experiences include a visit to the Iraq Al-Amir Women’s Cooperative which helps Jordanian women become financially independent. They run a cooperative to make products to sell in the gift shop or online. This experience is available on Uniworld’s Splendors of Egypt & the Nile itinerary. On Uniworld’s India’s Golden Triangle & the Sacred Ganges itinerary, an excursion visits the NGO Calcutta Rescue, which helps underprivileged children in Kolkata and West Bengal.

For more information, visit uniworld.com/au. CT 57

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River News

A BEAUTIFUL BARGE LIFE

• European Waterways has elevated its barge experience with the debut of the 20-passenger La Bella Vita on an island-hopping adventure on the Venetian Lagoon.

The luxury hotel barge will sail to fascinating places such as Murano, the home of ornate glassware; glamorous Lido of Venice Film Festival fame; and the town of Chioggia, where the 18th-century Church of San Domenico sits on its own island. The week-long voyage will also call on the Venetian islands of Sant’Erasmo,

which is known for its fields of violet artichokes, and Pellestrina, where you can ride a bike along the nearly 10-kilometre sea wall. The last stop is Venice, where the barge will moor outside the Naval Museum. Guests can walk off the barge and spend time visiting St Mark’s Square, the Cathedral of San Pietro and Doge’s Palace.

/ Dominant force

V

DANCE with DOURO

• APT has revealed details of its new Douro River ship, MS Estrela, which will launch in 2024. “Small in size, with a maximum of 120 guests, MS Estrela will be grand in stature featuring a sun deck with one of the largest pools on the Douro River,” says APT CEO David Cox. “Purpose-designed with our guests from Australia, New Zealand and the UK in mind ... key features [include] a sun deck featuring an outdoor bar with couches, chairs and tables, as well as a large swimming pool and a golf putting green.” Every stateroom and suite will have an ensuite, personal climate control, a flatscreen TV and free WiFi, while balcony suites will feature APT’s new-style electric slide-down windows that open to a French balcony. The ship’s restaurant will offer Portuguese and Mediterranean cuisine.

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iking has grown into the world’s biggest river-ship owner, with a fleet of 79 vessels – up from just four in 1997. The line now commands 51 per cent of the overall river cruise market from the Mediterranean and America to Asia, and dominates the river cruise industry in Europe. Viking founder and chairperson Torstein Hagen says his growth plan includes 14 more river vessels to be built and in service by 2026. Today, the line sails on five oceans and 18 rivers across 88 countries in seven continents.

It employs more than 10,000 crew and staff and, over the years, has entertained and carried 500,000 guests.

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Collaboration

“We have bikes on most of our ships, so guests can adjust the resistance while touring if some spots are too strenuous or too easy,” says Dimitrova.

EMERALD CRUISES

GO with the FLOW

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For a luxurious holiday that really moves you, set off on a river cruise with a fitness focus.

he way we travel is changing, and active travel is definitely having a moment. For decades, cruises have been synonymous with the antitheses of active travel – more about views from the deck, decadent menus and sun lounging. But new-age river cruising has evolved into a seriously active holiday, with everything from cycling expeditions to yoga on offer. So, while you may think river cruising is all about the slow lane, think again.

Emerald Cruises, with its fleet of award-winning Star-Ships navigating the rivers of Europe, is leading the way with curated fitness offerings on all its cruises. Emerald Cruises’ guests enjoy the phenomenal combination of unpacking once, living aboard a luxurious ship, and delving into fun, daily adventures with their EmeraldACTIVE program – if they so desire. From yoga to aqua aerobics and cycling and hiking to kayaking, it’s easier than ever to stay healthy on a cruise-ship jaunt.

“Participation on active tours has doubled, as our guests crave a more independent and invigorating approach to touring,” says Emerald Cruises’ product manager, Denitza Dimitrova.

Get active

Clockwise, from main: Explore river port cities by bike; the Star-Ship Emerald Liberté; yoga on the sun deck.

/ What level are you?

The EmeraldACTIVE excursions vary in physical difficulty, so EmeraldACTIVE has a straightforward system, ranking the outings from easy to moderate to difficult. “We always advise guests of the level of difficulty for each tour,” says Dimitrova. “Some active walks or hikes are relatively easy, but most of our active options require a certain level of fitness.” From a fast-paced walk in Engelhartszell to a cycling tour along the Danube or a canoeing excursion in Avignon, there’s an active endeavour for just about everyone.

/ Things to do

The range of activities is unique to your European destination. Embark on a guided bike tour of Vienna on the 15-day Splendours of Europe cruise. Take a bracing guided hike through vineyards or to Bratislava Castle on the 24Day Discover the Classic Rivers & Experience Eastern Europe itinerary. Also on this cruise, you can set off on one of Emerald Cruises’ favourite outings: the hike up Gellért Hill overlooking the Danube. “We take guests from the ship up to the hill for breathtaking views of Budapest,” says Dimitrova. “Guests absolutely love this experience!”

So, whether you are a classic cruiser who likes a laid-back breakfast and an afternoon cocktail, or an active traveller who likes to deep dive into a destination in an energetic way, Emerald Cruises delivers. Keeping fit has never been easier on holiday, with a dedicated activity manager to guide you, a spectacular pool with lap jets and a yoga-friendly sun deck.

With Emerald Cruises, you can choose your own adventure, and do as much or as little as you like.

For more information visit emeraldcruises.com.au, contact your travel agent or call 1300 211 387. CT

/ Fit & Free

Keeping active with Emerald Cruises won’t cost you the earth, either. In fact, there are plenty of options included in your fare.

There’s morning yoga on the sun deck or water aerobics with an Emerald Cruises activity manager.

You can also do laps in the pool – just press the motorised current. There’s also a walking track on the sun deck to get your steps up, plus putt-putt golf. In your itinerary, there are free hikes and cycling expeditions, or you can take a bike and explore a destination in your own time.

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Voyage

Nothing trivial about the

Moselle Teresa Ooi sails on one of Europe’s lesserknown rivers with Avalon Waterways.

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orget the Ashes. The real battle between Australia and the UK took place on board the Avalon Imagery II this European summer – and Australia was victorious! An Avalon T-shirt and an umbrella might not be quite the famous urn, but it will do. The knockout blow for the Brits came when they were asked which country had an x in its name. Perhaps it was Brexit, but they didn’t get Luxembourg.

We are cruising aboard Avalon Imagery II as she meanders down the Moselle River from Remich in Luxembourg to Frankfurt in Germany – and the scenery cannot be more beautiful.

We’re an assorted bunch – Australians, Brits, Kiwis, South Africans and Americans. And one of the joys of river cruising is the camaraderie in the lounge after dinner. It’s how great friendships are made.

The Moselle is one of the Rhine’s longest tributaries. It covers roughly 550 kilometres from its source at Ballon d’Alsace, high in the Vosges mountains, France, to its end where it joins the Rhine at the city of Koblenz, Germany.

The river forms a water border between Luxembourg and Germany, and passes Alpine valleys, medieval towns, verdant vineyards and fairytale castles. It is pictureperfect and what one American guest describes as a screensaver every time you look out of Avalon’s fabulous floor-to-ceiling windows.

Middle and Lower Moselle from Trier, Germany’s oldest city and the birthplace of Karl Marx, to Koblenz is particularly stunning. The river snakes its way through the scenery and takes your breath away.

Avalon’s ‘Active & Discovery on the Moselle’ itinerary is an eight-day cruise that sails three rivers. The Moselle from Remich to Koblenz, then the Rhine to Rudesheim, and finally the Maine to Frankfurt. The Moselle has 13 locks which Avalon Imagery II passes through. As Captain Tamas Harsanyi says, “It’s all part and parcel of my job to get the ship through the locks with the help of my secondin-command and crew.”

The months from April to October are generally the warmest for a Moselle cruise. The day starts with temperatures of about 12°C, then quickly climbs to a warm 23°C by mid-morning.

It is also the time when annual wine festivals are held with pop-up tasting stations. And the riverside towns are decked with flowers, buntings and ribbons. The festive atmosphere includes oompah bands, kids’ carousels, fireworks and processions. And best of all – lots and lots of wine. Some of the best German rieslings are produced here. They are crisp, light, aromatic and very drinkable.

Perfect for a late summer lunch of bratwurst sausages, sauerkraut and salad – all good German staples washed down with chilled riesling.

The Moselle River can also be at its charming best in October and November when autumn colours gild the landscape and temperatures are still pleasant. Most tourist attractions stay open until early November. So, this is also a good time to see the sights without the crowds.

Then there’s Christmas – a magical time along the Moselle. It’s when most of its towns host glittering, fairytale fairs from mid-November until Christmas Eve. Just make sure you layer up, put a beanie on, grab a mug of gluhwein (mulled wine) and enjoy the festivities.

Avalon does not offer Christmas cruises on the Moselle.

Instead, it has itineraries on the Danube from Nuremberg to Vienna and on the Rhine between Basel and Frankfurt.

A fairytale dream

Clockwise, from above left: Shore excursion to learn about local wines; Reichsburg Castle in Cochem, the Moselle Valley; an Avalon Waterways’ Royal Suite.

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Voyage

AVALON IMAGERY II ON THE MOSELLE Our first port of call is Trier, where we go on an evening excursion with a local historian guide. Trier was founded by the Romans and is often called the Rome of the North. One of its tourist attractions is Porta Nigra – the Black Gate – the oldest monument of its kind in Germany. It’s a black, imposing building that looks suspiciously like a Hollywood film set.

I almost expect to see Tom Cruise leap out of the parapet on his motorbike in one of his Mission Impossible movies.

In the middle of the main square is a bronze statue of Karl Marx, the father of Communism, donated by the Chinese government.

Throughout the marketplace are quaint wooden houses built between 1602 and 1605.

Fine Imagery

Clockwise, from above: On board Avalon Waterways’ river ship in the dining room; on the sun deck; and in a Panorama Suite. Below: Trier in Germany’s Moselle region.

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he next day we arrive at Bernkastel and take a walking tour of the medieval town. Of its population of about 7500, more than 65 per cent are Catholics. We stop by the 500-year-old St Michael’s Catholic Church, but the most charming place is the market square buzzing with local Germans on holiday.

For the more adventurous, Avalon offers active excursions. Those who want to test their cycling prowess can take a 30-kilometre ride along the riverbank to the next port. The fitter among us take up the challenge and, even with the sun beating down at 25°C, they all complete the journey to Bernkastel.

Life on board Avalon Imagery II is as gentle as the river we are sailing. The ship is spacious, elegant and kitted out in chic furnishings. The Panorama suites have marble bathrooms and L’Occitane toiletries are encased in glass containers, in line with Avalon’s

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Book it

• The eight-day ‘Active & Discovery on the Moselle’ journey starts at AU$4492 per person, based on double occupancy for a May 19, 2024 departure.

The trip starts in Luxembourg but why not extend your holiday with two nights in Paris first?

Avalon offers an optional extension from AU$1330 per person. Go to avalon waterways.com.au for details.

sustainability ethos. There’s plenty of drawers and hanging space to store all your holiday gear.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the main dining restaurant on Deck 2 while a light lunch of salads, cheese and chicken or vegetarian pasta is also available in the Panorama Lounge at the front of the ship. There are always cookies and coffee available 24 hours in the Club Lounge at the stern of the ship on Deck 3. Avalon has recently introduced a happy hour on board for guests to mingle and chat about their day’s activities over a glass or two of riesling or Aperol in the Panorama Lounge.

The sun deck has a tiny whirlpool, big enough to accommodate a maximum of four guests. There are plenty of sun loungers with sunshades and comfortable cushioned seats at the front of the ship to relax with a book as the ship sails silently to the next destination.

Avalon also hosts barbecues and friendly tournaments such as cornhole on the sky deck. Afternoon tea and happy hour are also served daily at the Lounge with cruise director Mauro Demevi giving a port briefing on what to expect from the next destination.

Executive chef Ibrahim Mahmoud, who hails from Egypt and has been working for Avalon for 10 years, says the cuisine reflects the region where the ship sails with a daily choice of meat, fish and vegetarian meals always available. His biggest challenge is to cater for all the various dietary restrictions guests may have, such as intolerances to lactose, gluten or garlic.

Wines specially picked by sommeliers also reflect the region the ship sails in and are included during meals.

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Voyage AVALON IMAGERY II ON THE MOSELLE

Everyday rewards

From far left: Cycle to the next port so you can indulge in delicious desserts. Below: Walking tours are popular on Active & Discovery cruises.

The main selling point of Avalon’s accommodation is its Panorama suites with floor-to-ceiling windows boasting uninterrupted river and landscape views. The double bed faces the window and you can open the sliding door, allowing the fresh breeze in.

Avalon boasts: “The bed always faces the giant window with ever-changing views.” And you do wonder why all river cruise lines don’t have this configuration.

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e arrive at the charming town of Cochem which has a population of only 5500 people but plays host to more than two million visitors each year. “Cochem in winter is a ghost town as most tourists visit from May to October,” says our local guide, Sylvie.

We walk to one of the oldest mustard mills, dating back to 1810. It produces about 200 kilograms of mustard a day with the seeds imported from Canada and Eastern Europe.

The mill specialises in nine varieties of mustard, including one with gingerbread spices based on an original recipe from the 15th century. There are tastings and the one with garlic wins my thumbs up.

I visit the three-onion-domed, 15th-century St Michael’s Catholic Church. The stained glass windows were painted by the same artists who completed those at Westminster Abbey. But it’s time for more riesling at Emily’s Cafe in the Market Square. It’s a perfect spot for some local people-watching.

Back on the ship, a delicious roast duck dinner was followed by a performance by violinist Vlad Musatov. He played a medley of classical and contemporary music from Schindler’s List to Michael Jackson – a perfect after-dinner experience that left many of the female cruisers with tears in their eyes.

The next day, the river merges with the Rhine at Koblenz. We are greeted by the magnificent monument built by the first Kaiser of Germany, Wilhelm I. It is at the confluence of the two rivers on the popular promenade.

Koblenz was once the home of emperors, kings and dukes – but today it is home to many large corporates. The Old Town, with its half-timbered 64

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buildings and charming cafes, is buzzing. We walk into a concert where four musicians from Ukraine are playing classical instruments, including one who strums a Russian balalaika (similar to a three-string lute).

The Rhine is a much busier river than the Moselle. As we make our way from Koblenz to Rudesheim, we cruise through some amazing landscapes. There is the Maus Castle, built in 1256 on the left bank, followed by the Katz Castle on the hills on the right bank. We also pass through the narrowest part of the river. They serve us a glass of warm spiced tea brandy as a reward. It’s a heartwarming gesture as the temperatures dip to a windy and chilly 12°C. Our final stop is Frankfurt on the River Maine – pronounced “Meine” in German.

Frankfurt is the banking centre of Germany. It is also known as the Manhattan of the country. The city’s airport is one of the largest in Europe with more than 66 million passengers a year. We lunch at the Old Opera House Square, where we share pork knuckle with sauerkraut, frankfurter with chips and fried baby sardines, washed down with apple cider. A delicious Germanic treat.

Cruising on Avalon Imagery ll on the Moselle is a charming experience with pictureperfect vineyards on both sides of the river banks. And the fairytale castles, villages and towns are filled with friendly locals. It’s a pleasant change from the crowds in other European countries.

What is particularly appealing is that Avalon offers a choice of excursions where fit passengers can hike and bike, while the less active can simply go for a gentle stroll to discover what the Moselle has to offer. Avalon Imagery II’s international crew of 37 is attentive and helpful, especially to guests who needed assistance. And the food served in its main dining room has been consistently good.

The Moselle deserves to be discovered. I can’t wait to return. CT

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Brunello Cucinelli holdall, AU$5213.

Patagonia T-shirt, AU$69.95.

Grenson Dale sandals, AU$275.

European rivers

PS Paul Smith ‘Chore’ jacket, AU$210.

Trunk Show

The North Face ‘Horizon Breeze Brimmer’, AU$65.

Matteau cotton maxi-dress, AU$920.

Birkenstock 1774 ‘Tokio’ suede loafers, AU$689.

Carhartt WIP Simple trousers, AU$109.

Toteme silk-twill pyjamas, AU$1840.

Bottega Veneta ‘Flip Flap’ tote, AU$6400.

Jacquemus linen shirt, AU$404.

Begüm Khan clip earrings, AU$2622.

Jacquemus bucket hat, AU$178.

Rains Classic Jacket, AU$145.

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Innovative, transformative, original. Avalon Waterways has redefined river cruising by going against the current and away from the ordinary.

Onboard our suite fleet of ships, you’ll enjoy the perfect blend of elegance and ease – where little touches are bold, gestures are grand and the views even grander. Our boutique-hotel-inspired Panorama SuitesSM feature the industry’s only Open-Air BalconiesSM with the widest-opening windows in cruising and decadent Comfort Collection bedsSM that face the ever-changing scenery.

Award-winning accommodations, exceptional shore excursions, flexible dining options and a unique relaxed luxury atmosphere. It’s the Avalon difference and doesn’t get much better than that!

70 CRUISES

10 RIVERS

24 COUNTRIES

Visit AvalonWaterways.com.au, call 1300 230 234 or see your travel agent

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Escapes 68 The 60 best in travel | 102 Richard Branson’s top four | 104 Take our quiz

page

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Gold Coast

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Collaboration

Where next?

60 GRE ESCAP AT ES

The crowds, the heat, the fires… travelling the world is proving to be a search for places to avoid, rather than hot destinations. Here our writers share some of their secret spots, where memorable moments and exciting experiences are far away from the throngs.

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rom a street hawker stall in Singapore to an African safari, from a grand Monte Carlo hotel to a beachfront villa in Sri Lanka – we’ve all had a much-loved travel experience that has left an indelible impression on our souls. It could be as simple as having a beer in a bar that hangs from the side of a rock cliff as the sun sets or walking into a museum full of antique taxidermy. In sharing their adventures, our well-travelled writers have been to some amazing places and spaces and had life-changing experiences. In a world full of well-visited wonders, there are still hidden gems waiting to be unearthed.

First, check out Louise Goldsbury’s experiences (Hotels & Resorts, pp 70-72) as she checks in to a list of stand-out stays, from family-owned accommodation on remote Greek islands to an underground central London hotel. She then dips a toe into some of the most alluring resorts which linger in her mind long after the fingers of a massage are gone.

When it comes to feeding the imagination for food and beverage destinations, not much gets past foodie Grant Jones (Food & Culinary, pp 73-75). From the latest in indigenous eating at Sydney Opera House to foie gras and Champagne among the vineyards or dining with friends in an Istanbul hotspot, run by an Aussie-Turkish chef who divides his time between the two countries.

Set sail with Peter Lynch, who charts an ideal voyage around the best river and ocean cruises on the planet (Cruise, pp 76-78). From top to bottom, from Antarctica to Budapest, there is a cruise for you. Dine like a maharaja or gaze at the Northern Lights where you are guaranteed to get a 360-degree view of the world around you as soon as you step out on deck.

And who better to take you on a wild adventure tour than Michael Turtle (Adventure & Wildlife, pp 79-81) as he experiences the amazing world of animals, from staring eyeball to eyeball with an orangutan to the breathless view from Machu Picchu. It takes ice in the veins to take on Greenland, while the warm waters of Ningaloo will get you within a fin of a whale shark, those gentle giants of the sea.

What better way to soak up Japan than slipping into an onsen, like Ute Junker (Spa & Wellness, pp 82-84) or trying out a Bhutanese hot stone bath? If you are here for a higher purpose, hit the Himalayas, where focusing on putting one step in front of the other on a hike through villages is an exercise in mindfulness.

If eyeballing art takes your fancy (Arts & Culture, pp 85-87), then Anna Johnson tackles a room-by-room approach to European galleries, while closer-to-home Indigenous art features in an expedition to Central Australia where you will walk away with your own creation.

Now, all you have to do is choose… CT 68

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By the campfire

The Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp in Botswana.

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Our EXPERTS PETER LYNCH I’m the editor in chief of Cruisepassenger.com.au and Cruise & Travel magazine, and I’ve been travelling on cruise ships for over 20 years. My first cruise was aboard a Princess ship in the Norwegian fjords – and I’ve been hooked since then. My favourite journeys are an eclectic bunch, from an Antarctic voyage to a Star Clipper sailing in the Mediterranean.

GRANT JONES My first trip was a nine-month rollercoaster through South America in the mid-1980s. It finished by being married on the deck of the MV Bucanero, cruising the Galapagos, and a seat at the captain’s table. While I continued to travel extensively, food and drink became an increasing part of that experience, a global language that I love to share.

LOUISE GOLDSBURY I am an occasional Sydney-based writer, who spends most of the year on luxury cruises. When on land, I love to embark on road trips to review hotels, spa resorts and wine regions around Australia.

MICHAEL TURTLE I’ve been travelling the world full-time for more than 12 years, and my adventures have taken me from the islands of Indonesia to the mountains of Tajikistan. I’m happiest when I’m out in nature, surrounded by fresh air and dramatic landscapes (but knowing there’s a comfortable bed waiting for me!).

UTE JUNKER I’ve been reporting on luxury travel and lifestyle for more than 20 years. I spend much of the year on the road and I’m happiest when snorkelling a coral reef, tucking into a new cuisine, or enjoying an up-close encounter with wildlife.

ANNA JOHNSON The strangest travel story I ever wrote found me in a motel in the Cook Islands that was built over a burial ground. My favourite cruises are intimate, well-curated itineraries where on-land excursions generate harmony and understanding. Scenic achieved this when I cruised the Mekong – it was the perfect mix of French champagne and marinated tarantula.

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Where Next?

SLEEPING Beauties

HOTEL & RESO S RT

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By Louise Goldsbury

To arrive at a welcoming hotel or resort can instantly relieve the pain of delays, cancellations, extra expenses and crowded destinations.

Location, privacy, reliability and good service are basic essentials, but it’s the special touches that can make all the difference. Even in the most popular places, there needs to be a few distinguishing features to create lasting memories. These are the 10 places that linger lovingly in my mind long after checking out.

1

LE MERIDIEN BEACH PLAZA Monte Carlo • Le Méridien is the only resort in Monaco with a private beach.

From the hotel’s pier, guests can use banana boats or try tubing; the concierge can arrange water-skiing and jet-skis. Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, I start my afternoon with sangria at the beach bar, followed by a seafood lunch prepared tableside at Muse under the shade of pine trees. If you’re not in the mood for Monte Carlo’s fine dining, order room service to your ocean-view balcony. This family-friendly hotel has indoor and outdoor pools, beach massages and occasional beach parties. The new Apartment 915 has three bedrooms and plenty of living space. $ marriott.com

AYANA RESORT Bali • One of the world’s greatest spas is perched on a cliff above the Indian Ocean in Indonesia. Its 53 treatment rooms are set across 22,000 square metres. Ayana Spa alone is worth the trip to Ayana Resort Bali, but this spectacular site also has an incredible 14 pools from kids’ pools with waterslides to a huge hydrotherapy seawater pool. My all-time favourite bar, the oceanfront Rock Bar on Jimbaran Bay, is accessed via a cliffside inclinator, with a DJ booth carved into the cliff face. Ayana’s service is top-notch, and spacious suites are decorated with traditional wood carvings. $$ ayana.com 70

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3 O BY MYCONIAN COLLECTION Mykonos • An unusually quiet haven on this party island, O is part of a portfolio of 11 family-owned properties in Mykonos. Uniquely, guests are encouraged to use the facilities at the sister locations, with complimentary transfers between each hotel. During my stay, I have a massage at nearby Avaton and then dinner at Ambassador Hotel’s Relais & Châteaux restaurant. The rest of my time is spent drifting back and forth between O’s pool and Ornos Bay. A DJ starts playing before sundown, transforming the space into an open-air cocktail lounge. In the morning it becomes a breakfast buffet of Greek delicacies. The excellent staff can also assist with yacht trips to Paros or Delos, and helicopter flights from the private helipad. $$ omyconian.gr

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ÀNI Sri Lanka • Àni can only be booked by one group at a time. Its 15 beachfront villas accommodate up to 30 people for a bespoke getaway, with rates including meals, drinks, spa treatments, fitness classes and excursions to local attractions. We take tuk-tuks to a Buddhist temple and a tea plantation; a minivan drops us at Smoke & Bitters, one of Asia’s Best 50 Bars. But most of the time, we just want to stay on site and take advantage of the all-inclusive massages, facials, yoga and exquisitely presented Sri Lankan cuisine. The exceptional staff spoil us rotten, and when I want to be alone, a deserted beach is footsteps away. $$$ aniprivateresorts.com

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TWA HOTEL JFK • If there’s ever been a reason to stay at an airport hotel, TWA is it. Inspired by aviation’s glory days of the ‘jet age’, TWA transformed a defunct terminal at New York’s JFK Airport into a retro 1960s experience. Soundproofed rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows have runway views without the noise.

Check out the cocktail bar inside an old plane, the world’s biggest hotel gym, rooftop pool, Twister room, museum, and a cafe by chef JeanGeorges. TWA is the only hotel inside the airport, so you just walk over from your gate, board the AirTrain for one stop, and get off at Terminal 5. Perfect for a layover or the night before an early flight (or a cruise). $ twahotel.com

THE LONDONER London • Despite its location on lively Leicester Square, near West End theatres and pubs, The Londoner is remarkably quiet. Six levels are underground, including a cinema, spa and swimming pool, where I sink into a cabana one afternoon.

My other favourite sanctuary is The Residence, comprising three areas to unwind with complimentary refreshments and board games. On the nine levels above ground are 350 guestrooms, a rooftop Japanese garden, and venues for dining and drinking. Sit on the terrace at Whitcomb’s, enjoying French cuisine while watching the action of Soho below. $$ thelondoner.com

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Hotels & Resorts

MYSA MOTEL Gold Coast • This is the motel from your 1970s road trips to the Gold Coast but reimagined in retro glory, using salvaged bricks and breezeblocks. Vintage furniture and fibreglass sun loungers have been restored, complemented by pink neon signage and walls freshly painted in various pastel shades. The seven-room site can be booked out by one group, meaning you won’t have to share the pool with someone else’s kids. I love the contactless check-in process and head straight to my room, where a welcome pack of snacks and drinks awaits. Within a three-minute stroll are bars, cafes, shops and uncrowded Palm Beach. As easy as it gets. $ themysamotel.com

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THE LAKE HOUSE Finger Lakes • The Finger Lakes wine region in upstate New York is an idyllic setting for the quintessentially American lake vacation.

From water sports and lawn games to roasting marshmallows, The Lake House’s vibe is camping fun – without the tents. Hire a pontoon boat, paddleboard or waterbike; enjoy free meditation classes, bocce, croquet, cornhole and fishing; or relax in barrel-shaped outdoor saunas. I love the Rose Tavern for meals, where they give you take-away kits to make your own s’mores by the shoreside firepits. $$ lakehousecanandaigua.com

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JAMALA Canberra • They say politics is a zoo, but you can also find African savannah animals in Canberra.

Jamala Wildlife Lodge at Canberra’s National Zoo & Aquarium offers unique up-close encounters with some of the world’s most magnificent and endangered animals.

There are 18 African-lodgeinspired rooms, across three precincts – Giraffe Treehouses, Jungle Bungalows and the uShaka Lodge – featuring leopards, lions, bears and among others. Beyond the animal encounters, relax with a drink as the sun sets. Animals’ appetites sated, follow up with an African-inspired, four-course menu. As the lions roar their approval, dig into in a delicious breakfast the next morning. $$ jamalawildlifelodge.com.au

ALPIN RESORT SACHER Seefeld • Opened last year in the Austrian Alps, Alpin Resort Sacher prides itself on its wellness facilities and activities. An onsite lake and a heated infinity pool welcome swimmers with a mesmerising backdrop of snow-capped mountains. The daily program offers hiking with alpacas, curling, aqua aerobics, singing bowl sessions and torchlit walks at night. In the unisex ‘textile-free’ sauna complex, guests can be guided through a four-hour ritual, but I opt for a solo session in swimwear. In winter, the region is primed for skiing, toboggan rides, ice skating and ice-fishing. Don’t miss dinner at Der Max, awarded two Gault&Millau toques, where we feast on caviar, venison, quail and a sorbet of Sacher Cuvée. $$ seefeld.sacher.com

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Where Next?

EAT at MY TABLE

FOOD & BEVER AGE

By Grant Jones

Food is our international language. It traverses all barriers. Whether you are a ‘food as fuel’ person or savour the exotic flavours available in each new destination, food is a huge part of what defines people as a nation. That and the drinks that go with it too. Where would France be without Champagne and foie gras or Singapore without char kway teow and a Singapore Sling? If you are lucky enough, you might get to eat at one or two of these.

11 MARK OLIVE Midden at the Sydney Opera House, Cunard • Chef Mark Olive, aka the Black Olive, a Bundjalung man, is everywhere nowadays. Years ago, on the Indian Pacific, I was charmed by his knowledge and skill, and the care he took to introduce us passengers to his favourite Indigenous Australian ingredients. Since then, he has appeared on various TV shows, including his own, Outback Cafe, and Adam Liaw’s The Cook Up. While fame has been a slow burn, he is hot right now, recently opening a restaurant, Midden, at the Sydney Opera House, and is also a guest chef on Cunard, setting sail from Melbourne on January 5, 2024. $$ cunard.com; middensydney.com.au

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CENTRAL Lima, Peru • Loosen your belt and warm up your credit card.

Both will get a workout in Peru, as this restaurant hotspot has punched well above its weight for the past decade. Four are currently in the 50 Best in the World, including the World’s No.1, Central in Lima. The menu of husband-and-wife team Virgilio Martínez and Pía León takes you through Peruvian ecosystems, both Andean highs and Pacific Ocean lows – from shrimp, with squash and avocado to Amazonian pacu fish served with watermelon and coca leaf. $$$ centralrestaurante.com.pe

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LE MANOIR AUX QUAT’SAISONS Oxford, England • Le Manoir is the quintessential English country dining experience. With its elegant sandstone architecture and unflagging Britishness, watch from your table as chefs walk through the kitchen garden, snipping herbs and pulling fresh produce from the soil. The menu reflects the skills of its classically trained, French-born chef-patron Raymond Blanc and could be beetroot tartare with horseradish, milk-fed English lamb or roasted Cornish lobster. It is the only country house hotel in Britain to retain two Michelin stars for over 30 years. Sated by your meal, roll out of the restaurant and roll into the accommodation. The next day, walk to the cooking school to see if you can replicate dishes from the day before. $$ belmond.com

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Food & Beverage

MAUDE & GWEN Los Angeles, USA • One of Australia’s biggest food exports is not beef or wheat, but a kid we first saw as a blond-haired grommet hitting the waves in Surfing the Menu. The water-borne appearances of Curtis Stone are, these days, via his Share restaurants on Princess Cruises ships.

Back on land, it’s hard to ignore the success of his two LA restaurants, named after his grandmothers. At Maude, one ingredient is the hero each month, and could be anything from white truffles to the humble potato. At his other venue, Gwen, potatoes meet the perfect match at a butchery that focuses on fire-based cooking. He has also just launched Woodend in Mexico. $$ mauderestaurant.com; gwenla.com

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HAWKER CENTRES Singapore • Several years ago, in an exercise of contrasts, I spent eight hours on a Qantas A380 from Sydney to Singapore trying out Neil Perry’s new First Class menu. And he was doing the cooking! For the following eight hours, though, I headed to several hawker markets where the food is cheap and the options plentiful. There are half a dozen locations, from Chinatown to Maxwell Road, where you can choose between Hainanese chicken rice, pork congee or char kway teow.

There was not a dish I didn’t like. Neil’s dishes were also super by the way. $ thebestsingapore.com

RAW CHICKEN SASHIMI Japan • Torisashi, or raw chicken sashimi, is a Japanese delicacy. Try telling that to your 83-year-old English mother-in-law. While most Westerners are squeamish at the thought of uncooked chook, there are approved restaurants in Japan where you can eat raw chicken in a safe environment. While it is a regional delicacy of Kagoshima and Miyazaki prefectures in Kyushu, there are a few raw-chook restaurants around Tokyo.

Seared on the outside, or totally raw and blush pink, it’s eaten with aromatics such as grated ginger, garlic or yuzu kosho, a citrus chilli paste. I like it. Motherin-law? Not so much. $ Yakitori Eichan, Tokyo; tabelog.com/tokyo

MONKEY ONSEN Yudanaka-Shibu, Japan • It may be bitterly cold outside but the special guests at this onsen still wear their fur coats into the hot pools, to while away the winter hours. Food is scarce at this time of year but Japan’s famous macaques make do with what is available in the forest of Joshinetsu Kogen National Park.

Likewise, choose the right traditional lodging and your menu could also offer guests the fruits of the forest, be it spring crickets, dried then cured in honey, fish from the river or wild herbs that grow here.

Even though the monkeys have only been enjoying their spa for 60 years, a dining experience here will take you back centuries. $ snowmonkeyresorts.com 74

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EFENDY Istanbul, Turkiye • Talking about coals to Newcastle, or in this case kebops (the Turkish name) to Istanbul. Chef Somer Sivrioglu ran Efendy in Balmain, Sydney, then came his MasterChef TV appearances, then Barangaroo restaurants Anason and Baharat, and now Maydanoz, opposite Wynyard. The producers of MasterChef Turkiye came calling and he proved a hit. Next thing you know Efendy is popping up in Istanbul. Much like the man himself, the food is like a big warm hug, with Anatolian ingredients and recipes influenced by his mum, work ethos by his dad, in dishes that are wholesome, comforting and seasonal. $ efendyistanbul.com

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ROYAL CHAMPAGNE HOTEL & SPA Épernay, France • Only the best bubbles rise to the top at this luxury hotel in Champillon, north of Épernay.

With a terraced garden overlooking the undulating vineyards of Champagne, it offers 47 rooms and suites, terraces and a spa with panoramic views of the Marne Valley. Its Le Bellevue restaurant offers classic brasserie dining while Le Royal, awarded a Michelin Star in the 2023 guide, harvests its own vegetables and herbs to create a menu of candied, caviar and Champagne zabaione, marinated tomato sorbet with almond cream cheese and roasted confit pigeon leg with Tasmanian pepperberry-infused pan juice.

Toasted with Champagne, of course. $$$ royalchampagne.com

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MUGARITZ Errenteria, Spain • It would be remiss not to include Andoni Luis Aduriz’s Mugaritz, if only to include an anecdote about me spending an evening and many hours of the early morning locked inside an Istanbul restaurant with the chef and his crew. But that’s a story for another time. While its fame has made Mugaritz an effort to book, the effort is worth it. Perplexing dishes include ‘Technique’ Milk Sponge, ‘Origin’ The Chicken or the Egg, ‘Game’ Elastic Trumpets and ‘Dissonance’ Sub-zero Loin that are intent on exciting and confusing. The restaurant celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, but it’s still a ground-breaker. mugaritz.com Cruise&Travel

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Where Next?

SAIL away

CRUISE & SAIL

By Peter Lynch

The price of airfares and hotels makes cruising a strong contender for your holiday dollar. You unpack only once and get taken to many destinations without additional transport bills. The huge range and enormous variety of cruises make this a tough but fun category to pick from.

And it’s getting harder as the lines lift their game – particularly in the premium and luxury areas. I hope this quick list of my favourites helps. There are many more at cruisepassenger.com.au.

TRUE EXPEDITION Viking in Antarctica • Once the preserve of adventure ships, Antarctica is quickly becoming a must-do cruise. It is life-changing – but it’s also a true expedition, with visits to the ice, lots of wildlife and scientific experiences. Viking’s two vessels, Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris, are perfect.

They carry just 378 passengers and all the toys you could wish for: two submarines, a fast speedboat, labs, Zodiacs and a great range of creature comforts like a spa, fitness centre and a range of restaurants. $$ vikingcruises.com.au

ONCE IN A LIFETIME Ponant in the Kimberley • Ponant has a wealth of experience in delivering the quintessential WA adventure. While Ponant has added the threemasted Le Ponant to add an extra touch of glamour to the area, Australia’s Kimberley is best experienced from the decks and Zodiacs of its small luxury ships. This is a world of Indigenous culture, rock art and sea miracles like the Horizontal Falls.

Expedition leaders, led by the legendary Mick Fogg, are hugely knowledgeable and take extra care to ensure locals derive benefit from the growing number of visitors who enjoy all-inclusive luxury. $$$ discover.ponant.com 76

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21 RIVERSIDE ATTRACTIONS Scenic in Europe • River cruising is the perfect way to unwind, relax, and indulge – but at the same time set a cracking pace in terms of what you can achieve on a holiday. Take a trip from Amsterdam to Budapest and you will see three rivers and five countries… all from your ship.

There will be castles, vineyards, quaint towns, festivals and an astonishing array of food experiences. We travelled with Scenic, and the included exclusive tours were spectacular. $$$ scenic.com.au

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24 ISLAND HOPPER Star Clippers in the Med • Watch more than 5000 square metres of canvas unfurl as you embark on a cruise to the Mediterranean’s most scenic ports on the world’s largest tall ship. The five-masted Royal Clipper never fails to attract a crowd and, with only 227 guests, we were always welcome. Our €90 (AU$154) Sicilian lunch at a family-owned vineyard, an hour’s drive up the slopes of Mount Etna, is very special; fourth-generation Di Villagrande, Franco, serves us a delicious long lunch and glasses of his red. $$ starclippers.com

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OWN THE SEAS Emerald Cruises in the Aegean • Attention billionaires – Emerald Cruises has just stolen your favourite toy. Superyachts Azzurra and Sakara are as fancy as any oligarch’s plaything, but a lot more attainable. From about $800 per night for some itineraries, they sail the history-packed Aegean coastline, which includes ancient Troy and the battlefields of Gallipoli, before moving on to the Caribbean. For the full oligarch effect, we recommend the Owner’s Suite, at 108 square metres, located on the Pool Deck with a separate bedroom, lounge area and private terrace. $$$ emeraldcruises.com.au

LUXE AT SEA Regent Seven Seas in Europe • Prepare to be dazzled. Regent’s Seven Seas Explorer offers champagne, caviar and lobster on tap, and a suite costing US$10,000 a night (complete with a US$150,000 bed, grand piano, spa decorated in gold leaf and vast private balcony). But there is much more to it than eating foie gras off Versace plates and guzzling wine from crystal goblets.

There are also 2500 paintings and sculptures, including two Picassos and a Chagall, exquisite inlaid marble floors, Czech crystal chandeliers, a cooking school and great entertainment. Add the amazing shore excursions in Rome, Barcelona and more, and you’ll feel utterly spoiled. $$$ rssc.com

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TRANS-TASMAN FLING Princess Cruises to NZ • This round trip takes 12 days with one highlight being the breathtaking Milford Sound, the fiord which is home to fur seals, penguins and dolphins. Steaming volcanic lakes and visions of hobbits add to the magical landscape. But there is more to New Zealand – and Princess has captured well the cultural exchange that makes cruising such a strong experience. Tours are run to dark islands where no light interferes with star gazing, while farmers’ markets are financed by Princess to help indigenous groups. $$ princess.com 77

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THEME PARK AT SEA Royal Caribbean in Singapore • Singapore has become famous for its three-day cruises to nowhere.

Local families queue to sample the simplest of recipes for a weekend away: great food, crazy rides and activities that outdo a theme park – most of it included in the price.

Now, the big ships, like Spectrum of the Seas, are offering longer journeys with more variety in this fabulous part of the world, including 12 nights to Tokyo. All this and the iFly, the 90-metre-high North Star observation platform, dodgem cars, robot barmen and great culinary credentials and we had to admit it was a great-value experience. $$ royalcaribbean.com

WHIRL OF COLOUR Avalon Waterways in India • A screensaver moment around every corner. An assault on the senses each morning. The smells, colour and teeming population are a different world. From bazaar shopping, where a Maharaj’s dinner suit costs a few dollars, to marvelling at the architecture, India is a traveller’s heaven.

And seeing it from the Ganges aboard a river cruise ship is the best way to safely and comfortably taste this amazing nation.

Avalon Waterways offers cruises of the Ganges combined with extension tours that offer you a taste of South India and Kathmandu. $$ avalonwaterways.com.au

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THE NORTHERN LIGHT TOUCH Hurtigruten in Northern Europe • From a mail delivery service for picture-postcard Norwegian coastal towns to world-first hybrid ships and leading-edge technology, Hurtigruten’s home territory is where it shines, literally.

Hurtigruten takes groups of just 24 travellers on Northern Lights expeditions, best seen from Tromso, a beautiful city that sits within the Arctic Circle. While there, you can also view the city’s architecture, including the 1965 Arctic Cathedral with its unique roof and stained-glass windows – all part of countless optional excursions to experience this magical land. $$ hurtigruten.com.au Cruise &Travel

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ADVEN & WILDTURE LIFE

NATURAL Connections

By Michael Turtle

Staring into the eyes of an orangutan – just for a fleeting moment – I feel like we make a connection. But what is it thinking as it looks back at me? Before coming deep into the jungle of Borneo, conservationist Fred Galdikas had given me a warning. “Just remember, we are going into their world,” he says. It’s a reminder that this planet does not belong to us humans – and whether it’s amongst incredible wildlife or dramatic landscapes, one of the most exciting things you can do as a traveller is venture into one of these natural worlds and be a part of it, even just for that short moment when you lock eyes.

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WALK ON THE WILD SIDE Sigiriya region, Sri Lanka • My first visit to Kaudulla National Park was during ‘The Gathering’, the annual migration of hundreds of elephants and their newborns from nearby Minneriya National Park. From jeeps just metres away, you can see youngsters rip up grass with their trunks, cute… but wild, as we discover when one is separated, and the mothers charge us.

The gathering occurs in Sri Lanka’s cultural triangle, while the bungalows at Jetwing Vil Uyana offer a luxury ecofriendly stay. $$ andbeyond.com

LAND OF ICE Scoresby Sound, Greenland • It’s only fitting to head to the icy land of fjords and glaciers for a kayaking trip, given the Inuit are said to have invented the craft.

Southern Sea Ventures leads a 10-night Greenland cruise that includes paddling expeditions along the coast and past towering icebergs, with the opportunity to spot musk ox, arctic fox, arctic hare, even polar bears. With hikes up mountains, exploration of ancient settlements in the tundra, and the chance to see the northern lights, this is one of the most extreme environments you’ll find yourself in. $$ southernseaventures.com Cruise&Travel

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DIVE DEEP IN WAKATOBI Sulawesi, Indonesia • Not far from Borneo, in the vibrant reefs around Sulawesi, is some of the best marine biodiversity in Asia. But what you won’t find at Wakatobi, in the southeast of the Indonesian island, are other divers. This exclusive five-star resort is so remote that there are no other dive operators within 150 kilometres. From oceanfront villas, access the reef with just a short swim to the shallow coral-encrusted shelf that hides fish, crustaceans, turtles and seahorses, and anemones protecting iconic clownfish.

Be whisked away to more than 40 deeper sites via the resort’s boat. $$ wakatobi.com

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SNOW PEAKS Montana, USA • Snow-topped mountains form the background for the Ranch at Rock Creek, a 19th-century homestead conversion and one of the most exclusive horse-riding resorts in the US. Expeditions ride through this pristine alpine valley where beginners stay on the flat, creekside trails and more experienced riders head to the pine forests.

Accommodation ranges from two-level log homes to glamping tents, while local cuisine blends mountain tradition with modern styles. $$ theranchatrockcreek.com

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GO GALAPAGOS Ecuador • When Charles Darwin called the Galápagos “a little world within itself” he couldn’t have described it better. In this archipelago, tortoises live for more than a century, marine iguanas swim past volcanic rocks, and cormorants that have lost the ability to fly walk between cacti. One of the most comfortable options to experience the story of evolution is via Silversea’s seven-day cruise that includes Zodiac expeditions, hiking and snorkelling, all up close to the hawks, sea lions and penguins that appear remarkably unperturbed by human visitors. $$ silversea.com

THE IMPENETRABLE FOREST Uganda • At Volcanoes Bwindi Safari Lodge, 10 stone-and-timber glass-fronted houses with personal butler service overlook the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. From deep within the jungle, a family of the country’s endangered gorillas visits the lodge regularly. On treks into their home, only eight people are allowed to view each group of gorillas each day, and an encounter with a silverback is pretty much guaranteed, offering an incredible journey to see these majestic animals in the wild. $$ volcanoessafaris.com Cruise &Travel

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THE GENTLE GIANTS Ningaloo Reef, Australia • Ningaloo Reef is one of the world’s most remarkable places, where you can swim with whale sharks in turquoise lagoons and spot humpbacks during their annual migration. In the sand dunes, Sal Salis luxury safari camp is the perfect location for the fiery sunsets, along with gourmet dining and tours into the inland gorges of WA’s vibrant orange landscape. $ salsalis.com.au

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A NATURAL HIGH Machu Picchu, Peru • Hidden from the modern world for centuries, the Incan city of Machu Picchu is one of history’s great cultural wonders. But as I hike up a mountain, jagged peaks all around, I realise the journey to reach it is just as breathtaking (literally, the higher I get). From Salkantay Lodge, a multi-day trek from luxury lodge to lodge takes in epic views of the mountains all the way to Colpa Lodge, which sits in a cloud forest at the convergence of three rivers. The dramatic surroundings and Andean culture are the perfect preview to the main event. $ mountainlodgesofperu.com

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TAKE THE DROP Queenstown, New Zealand • Fresh mountain air whistling around the peaks, untouched powder everywhere, exhilaration waiting on the slopes. This is the excitement of heli-skiing in New Zealand, where you will be dropped at the top of the mountain for an incredible downhill run – and taken back up again. You’ll find some of the best heli-skiing around Queenstown and Wanaka, although a five-run heli package at Aoraki Mount Cook doesn’t just give you the freedom and adrenaline – but also the country’s highest peak, a spectacular spot for your day. $ heliski.co.nz

THE BIG FIVE Etosha National Park, Namibia • There’s no doubt the elephants are bigger in Namibia and, at a waterhole in Etosha National Park, I watch as they’re joined by rhinos, giraffes and zebra. There are lions here too, but when they come to the waterhole, the other animals stay away. Etosha has some of the best opportunities to see animals because of its sparse flora and the need for wildlife to gather at waterholes. Some of the most picturesque views are from a luxury ecofriendly suite at Anderssons at Ongava. $$$ abercrombiekent.com.au

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SPA WELLN & ESS

Refresh & RENEW

By Ute Junker

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No matter where you travel these days you will find a bewildering array of wellness experiences on offer. Some are tried and true – and I for one will never say no to a good massage – but we are gradually realising that feeling good is as much about sustaining your soul as it is pampering your body. A hike in fresh mountain air can leave you feeling as rejuvenated and restored as the best spa treatment. Here are 10 of my favourite experiences.

RAINFOREST DRIFT SNORKEL The Daintree • There are plenty of memorable experiences on offer at Silky Oaks Lodge but my favourite is also one of the simplest: to snorkel and float down the (croc-free) Mossman River that runs through Australia’s oldest rainforest, the Daintree. I loved climbing aboard a river sled – think a lilo, only more stable – and alternately riding fast-flowing patches of water and drifting down the river looking up to the rainforest canopy, basket ferns blocking out the sun as a chorus of insects serenaded us. The perfect way to unwind in the wilderness. $ silkyoakslodge.com.au

SOAKING IT UP Japan • I’ve soaked in plenty of hot springs, but nowhere quite like Kinosaki-Onsen.

This pretty town is blessed with atmospheric streets of weathered wooden houses and willow-lined canals, and no fewer than seven hot springs. That means onsen-wear, including yukata robes and geta sandals, is considered acceptable streetwear. So whenever I wanted to walk the 100 or so metres from one onsen to another, I didn’t have to get dressed again: I simply slipped on my robe and wandered down the street. Now that’s relaxing. $ visitkinosaki.com

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SPA SAFARI Indonesia • Nihi Sumba resort offers a marvellous spa safari which starts with a 90-minute hike from the seaside resort to the far side of the island where the spa is located. It’s a gorgeous walk but, by the end of it, I am ready to cool off with a swim in the clifftop pool. Then it is time for breakfast, served in a pavilion spectacularly cantilevered over the ocean, followed by a short stroll along the beach. Only then is it time for the main event: a massage in an al fresco clifftop pavilion, the soundtrack provided by the soothing murmur of the waves far below. $$ nihi.com Cruise &Travel

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44 HEALING HANDS England • I’ve never met a massage I didn’t like but when I tried the 135-minute Wildsmith Time package at The Bothy, the spa at the Heckfield Place country retreat in Hampshire, it soared straight to the top of my list. Everything about the experience was carefully thought through, from your journey – passing through a fragrant walled garden – to the candlelit post-massage relaxation room.

Every part of my body was treated in turn, including my chakras.

The perfect blend of muscle manipulation and spiritual healing, it felt as if I had a system reboot. Can’t wait to go back. $ heckfieldplace.com

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BALANCING BRAINWAVES Malaysia I used to think meditation was a pretty good way to unwind, until I tried neuro-acoustic therapy. Never heard of it?

Neither had I until I tried out the Chenot Spa at One&Only Desaru Coast in southeastern Malaysia. This unusual half-hour treatment, which many professional athletes swear by, involves listening to a natural soundtrack interspersed with electric beats. The aim is to slow your brainwaves and induce a deep sense of relaxation. Sounded a bit odd to me but I’ll give just about anything a go – and I discovered a deep state of relaxation that I’ve never been able to match. $ oneandonlyresorts.com Cruise&Travel

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SLOW HIKING Indian Himalaya • Some people head to the Himalaya to conquer the landscape, kitted out with crampons and ice axes. I lean toward a slower, more leisurely experience such as Shakti Himalaya’s six-day village hikes, an exercise in mindfulness.

Breathing in deep, we filled our lungs with oxygen-rich air as we followed easy trails through forested slopes and past Buddhist monasteries. When it was time for lunch our table was always set in a scenic spot, picnic hamper at the ready; at the end of the day, we fell asleep in a king-size bed decked out with a duvet. My step count rose; my soul soared even higher. $$ shaktihimalaya.com

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Where Next?

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BACK TO BASICS Bhutan • Staying at the sumptuous Amankora Gangtey lodge in Bhutan, I decided to try a traditional Bhutanese hot stone bath. There is a short walk from the hotel to the secluded one-time potato shed, where an oversized wooden tub had been filled with water and heated by hot stones that had lain in the fire for several hours. Fragrant herbs gathered from the surrounding meadows perfumed the water; chilled champagne, candles, soft towels and plenty of snacks were within easy reach. The doors were left open so I could enjoy the magnificent views. I stayed in there a long, long time. $ aman.com

SLEEPING SOUNDLY Koh Samui • What do you want from your next spa stay: some serious spoiling or a program that gets results?

At Kamalaya, you can have both. Having battled insomnia for as long as I could remember, and having tried everything, I decided to give it one last go with their sleep enhancement package.

Kamalaya was an inspired choice. The program’s blend of ayurvedic treatments, steam sessions and even yoga felt indulgent rather than therapeutic, and Kamalaya’s tropical tranquillity no doubt played its own healing role. I’m now sleeping better than ever. $ kamalaya.com

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STAYING CHILL Ibiza • I’ve long been a fan of Six Senses’ spa treatments, which blend traditional healing with modern science, but their RoseBar in Ibiza – which harnesses the latest research into longevity – lifts things to a new level. You can immerse yourself in a hyperbaric chamber or relax on an infra-red bed, but the most hardcore treatment – and therefore the one I went for – is the cryo-chamber. The idea is that by subjecting yourself to temperatures of -87° for three minutes, you reduce inflammation and boost antioxidant activity. I felt exhilarated for hours afterwards. I also tried the cryo face mask, which left me looking years younger. $ sixsenses.com EXHILARATING SAFARI Botswana • You won’t find leopard sightings listed on your average spa menu. But at its heart, wellness is about the way you feel – and I never feel better than I do on safari. Take your seat for a game drive and you find yourself in a special zone: utterly relaxed, because the only thing you have to do for the next few hours is to keep your eyes open, eagerly anticipating whatever thrill may come next. At AndBeyond Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp in Botswana that may include herds of zebra, elephants walking past, gazing at leopards in a tree and lions moving through the long grass.

Invigorating! $ andbeyond.com Cruise &Travel

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Where Next?

The ART of TRAVEL

ARTS & CULTU RE

By Anna Johnson

My first museum expedition was a subway ride in a stroller from Soho to the Met in Manhattan, my latest was Bonnard over two days at the NGV, Melbourne. For me, art, museums and architecture are the very heart of travel and seeing paintings in-situ in obscure Tuscan churches or waking up under a Jasper Johns at Benesse House on Naoshima Island is the ultimate luxury. When not booking into art hotels I seek out art residencies and workshops that are also worth their weight in oil paint, conviviality and the odd champagne.

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JEWEL BOX Namikawa Cloisonné Museum of Kyoto • In Kyoto, the blackened Edo-era shops conceal interior gardens and more. The original home of cloisonné master Yasuyuki Namikawa was built in 1894. Here the master created a form of enamel using wire to divide his brilliant colours. I love the watercolour designs, rustic workrooms, stone sinks and moss garden here. Like a temple, you must take shoes off to tip-toe through the tatami. The house, open Friday to Sunday, is a three-minute walk from Higashiyama station and a world away from the throngs of Gion. Entry is only ¥1000 (AU$10.60). $ namikawa-kyoto.jp

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MY LITTLE INDIA Megan Morton’s Jaipur Jaunt • If you want a tinker, a tailor and a candlestick maker… as well as cocktails in a palace fort, you need a trusted guide. Megan Morton’s voyage to India is concise, describing her five-day intensive tours as “tender-hearted programs for the time conscious”. The focus is on COLOUR. Threaded marigolds, antique saris and the hot pink that is the navy blue of India, will sear in your mind long after you leave Jaipur (roughly $1800 per day excluding cocktails and airfares) or her two- to three-day extension trips into Pushkar and Mumbai staying at Soho House from $2600 to $3600. $$

KASBAH CHIC Nord Pinus Tangier • The best place to rest your head after a day of antique hunting and museum haunting are the wrought-iron beds of the Nord du Pinus. Built over the ancient Roman town of Tingis, the hotel is a labyrinth of stairwells and bejewelled stained-glass windows. The contemporary photography on the walls was hand-picked by French hotelier Anne Igou. The roof terrace restaurant and bar is the highest point in the Kasbah with a view of Tarifa to the Spanish coastline that is pure Matisse.

The hotel’s breakfast, served on beautiful hand-painted ceramics, makes the most Henri Matisse-inspired table-scape you will post, ever. $ nordpinustanger.com 85

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Where Next?

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PLASTER PARADISE Pug Seal Zapoteco, Oaxaca City • If you love textiles, architecture and archaeology, head to Oaxaca. The Yucatan Peninsula has unusual museums, exquisite crafts and a raw natural beauty that intensifies when you fly in over the Sierra Madre mountain ranges. Pug Seal commissioned the artist Rafael Uriegas to make the Modernist plaster frescoes that define the iconic courtyard design and it all vibrates with a tactile glamour. Name a hotel that has swings hanging in the courtyard, bet you can’t. $ pugseal.com

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PURE LANDSCAPE Outback Art Workshop • Idris Murphy is leading another art trip into the western MacDonnell Ranges in the Northern Territory in July 2024.

Murphy is a contemporary landscape legend who knows the terrain well. The cabin accommodation is not opulent but the rivers, wetlands and sunsets spin rich memories. This experience gets my vote as the best art expedition in the country. One day you can walk into a museum and say… I painted with Idris Murphy. Irreplaceable. $$ arttraveladventures.com.au

CUBIST PARIS The Brach • Phillipe Starck based his design for The Brach on famous early 20th-century French art collectors. The lobby restaurant has an epic ceiling mural (by the designer’s daughter) that evokes Leger and creates something of a graphic template for the rest. The rooms are cleverly split-level with art and objet decorating an illuminating ledge beneath the ceilings. Brach is a study in extremes, with the fashion elite at the bar and a chicken coop and veggie patch on the roof. Monet’s last works can be seen at the nearby Musée Marmottan Monet. $$ brachparis.com 86

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MINIMALIST MEXICO Casa Puuc, Merida • Built by Mexican architect Manuel Amábilis in 1914 in the heart of the plush García Ginerés precinct, Casa Puuc is now an art hotel in the most esoteric sense. Its original laid-back linear grace has been retained by the artist Claudia Fernández who has decorated it with contemporary Italian and Mexican designs as well as her own sculptures. It’s a place where you wake up feeling twice as art saturated by virtue of something as simple as the placement of a lamp or a chair. It’s like sleeping in a small museum. $ casapuuc.com

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CABINET OF CURIOSITIES Musee De La Chasse Et De La Nature, Paris • The Museum of Hunting and Nature in the 3rd is near the Ramuteau Metro and the Musee Picasso. Founded in 1964 by Francois and Jacqueline Sommer, the couple were both keen hunters and conservationists. As if this wasn’t bizarre enough, the collection includes oils by Peter Paul Rubens, weaponry, taxidermy (!) and a room full of antique trophies. With a winding wrought-iron balustrade by French design legends Garouste Bonetti, the mansion that houses the collection is a draw in itself. But my favourite part of this museum is a tiny detail: a trompe l’oeil painting on a hidden sideboard of a tiny mouse. This, and the wall-mounted animatronic albino boar head. So very French, so very kinky. $ chassenature.org

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LAR DI DAR Tangerine Dream • Artists Gavin Houghton and Joan Hecktermann run a tongue-in-chic painting retreat that is light-hearted yet savvy to the Haute history of Tangier. The duo foster painting, sketching and (as an add-on) private house tours that are shamelessly maximalist. Limited to six guests and slated for dates in October-November 2023 and March 2024, their four-day classes include lunch, art materials and welcome drinks on the gorgeous green and white tiled terrace. The course does not include accommodation but you should stay in the Kasbah. Four days of sketching and two days of travel costs £1200 (about $2345). $ @tangierpaintingholiday; tangierpaintingholiday.com

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DIVINE DECADENCE L’Oscar, London • Jacques Garcia took inspiration from Oscar Wilde when transforming this former HQ for the Baptist Church into a hotel of private club proportions.

The 1856 building is on Southampton Row, nestled between Covent Garden and Bloomsbury. A few streets away is the eccentric John Soames museum, a private house crammed full of etchings and archaeology. L’Oscar is something of a sleeping beauty and a destination unto itself. One can have a grand breakfast in the wood-panelled L’Oscar restaurant or host Edwardian cocktails in the theatrical Baptist Bar. Once I clocked the triple-height velvet curtains, Icelandic down eiderdowns and silk upholstered chaise in my boudoir, I grabbed a copy of Dorian Grey and let the rain fall. $$ loscarlondon.com 87

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SPECIAL REPORT LUXURY GOLD COAST

24-CARAT

GOLD

Our guide to the Gold Coast’s accommodation, dining, shopping, wellness and spas – with luxury and indulgence in mind. We also reveal how to get around in style so you fit in with the locals. A special report by Cruise & Travel.

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WELCOME

SPECIAL REPORT / LUXURY GOLD COAST

Top end of town

Welcome to the new luxury Gold Coast – a holiday playground of designer shopping and fancy cars amid plenty of glitz and glamour, writes Sue Wallace.

s

leek, slick, luxe and oh so sexy – I’m talking about a shiny, sharply styled matte-black Italian showstopper, a Lamborghini Urus that’s all mine for two days and yes, it is love at first sight.

My heart beats a little faster as I am handed the keys by the Lamborghini’s trustworthy caretaker, who says it’s like driving any car… it just happens to come with a $400,000 price tag but can be yours for just $1900 a day.

I open the door to the SUV with its mammoth V8 engine and the oh-so-soft red leather interior. Push this button to start.

Pull the red lever to reverse. Push the paddles on the steering wheel to change gears. We have an incident-free test drive, then it’s just me and my Lambo. And I am off – ever so tentatively.

But I am not driving in Florence, or around Lake Como or on the Amalfi Coast, for that matter. This is not scorching Europe, this is the sun-kissed Gold Coast, a destination that has finally come of age.

Forget bold and brassy, forget theme parks, ignore chain restaurants and bypass cheap motels. There is now an edgy sophistication beckoning all lovers of the finer things in life to pack their matching leather bags and book opulent accommodation that they won’t want to leave – unless, that is, to discover the fabulous dining, glamour shopping and world-class luxury experiences that the grown-up visitor to the Gold Coast now enjoys.

From South Stradbroke Island to Rainbow Bay in the south, stretching 70 kilometres along the spectacular Queensland coastline and spanning 1400 square kilometres, the Gold Coast is attracting an increasing number of cashed-up sophisticated travellers looking for a high-end break to indulge in luxury whims and soak up all it has to offer.

Gold Coast businesswoman Rebecca Frizelle – a co-owner of the NRL’s Titans and a former chief operating officer of Frizelle Automotive Prestige – says the Gold Coast is now a truly international destination.

“Over the past few years, we have attracted renowned luxury hotel international brands, such as The Langham hotel – the first absolute beachfront fivestar hotel built in 30 years on the Gold Coast – which opened its doors in June 2022. Mondrian Residences Burleigh Heads is on the immediate horizon and The Ritz-Carlton is awaiting council approval to start construction on the Broadwater.

“We have an expanding marina precinct that can accommodate superyachts and there are plans underway to offer worldclass facilities with the incoming Riva Lounge,” adds Frizelle. “We offer unique and quality experiences whether that be in the arts and culture with our world-class Home of the Arts precinct including a

$60 million new art gallery – to sun and surf, shopping and sailing, or relishing the superb eco resorts and hiking trails in our nearby hinterland.”

The Gold Coast’s shopping precincts rival the world’s best high streets, in a unique and casually elegant atmosphere.

Luxury brands such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Harrolds can be found at Pacific Fair shopping centre, the heart of Broadbeach, and are a great drawcard for tourists, particularly international visitors.

“From the days of being recognised as Australia’s playground, we have become renowned for fun and so much more, and we have also grown as a city which thrives on entrepreneurship and that ‘have a go’ attitude that has proven time and again to be successful.

“Every day, we are proudly welcoming new residents, both national and international, to the Gold Coast which has such a broad and diverse offering in terms of luxury,” she says.

“The Gold Coast has the enviable ability of being able to offer visitors whatever they want to indulge in, within a 40-kilometre radius. Whether it be experiencing the beauty of our hinterland with luxury glamping or soaking up the sun along our expansive coastline in luxury beachfront accommodation, the Gold Coast has it all.”

From far left: The Langham, Gold Coast; writer Sue Wallace loved the Lamborghini Urus; lobby at The Langham.

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WELCOME

SPECIAL REPORT / LUXURY GOLD COAST

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ACCOMMODATION

SPECIAL REPORT / LUXURY GOLD COAST

The Suite Life

Whether it’s the opulence of a new beachfront hotel or a country estate in the Hinterland, the Gold Coast excels at the super-luxury end.

i

’m floating in warm bubbly waters, sipping another kind of bubbles in what is definitely the biggest bathtub I’ve ever seen in a hotel room. The huge marble bathroom also features luxe Diptyque toiletries. And why not? This is The Langham, Gold Coast and my room is a sprawling 19th-floor Presidential Ocean Suite.

It is palatial, with a king-bed suite I don’t want to leave, a separate stylish lounge and dining area, a butler’s pantry and a spacious balcony overlooking the beach and sparkling ocean beyond. It’s tasteful and classy.

A soft pastel decor charms throughout the rest of the hotel, with bursts of magnificent pink-hued flowers – a soft pink bunch of roses here, a fuchsiashaded dramatic arrangement there – and the flower-decked pink telephone box that’s an Instagram hit.

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Then there’s that signature ginger flower scent, a little like honeysuckle, that leaves you swooning the minute you step through those elegant front doors.

The striking diamond-faceted design of the hotel, which sits in the Jewel Complex, with its 339 lavish rooms and suites, is a head-turner whether you are dipping your toe in the sandy lagoonstyle entrance, swimming up to the bar at the outdoor pool or making a splash in the 100-metre magnesium pool.

BOUTIQUE BEACHFRONT Capri or Cabarita – the beautiful Halcyon House at Cabarita Beach leaves you pondering. Just a 50-minute drive from Surfers, it mixes chic Hamptons style with a glam Aussie influence. The former surf motel turned luxury hotel has 22 luxe rooms decorated by Queensland interior designer Anna Spiro. As soon as I open

the door to the roomy Master Suite, it’s all about colour, pattern, comfort and great beach views. Blue hues are the predominant colour here, reflecting the vivid skies and water.

The bathroom has a deep tub and there’s a king-size bed with a blue bedhead that blends with striking flowery wallpaper. The spacious lounge area is framed by a salon-style hang of interesting artwork, and there’s a private balcony with blue-and-white striped sun lounges – perfect for flopping by the beachfront pool and terrace area.

Fall asleep at night to a wave symphony and wake with birdsong, then grab a complimentary McTavish or Mick Fanning surfboard from the lawn and hit the waves.

Then there’s a day spa and Paper Daisy, a destination restaurant headed by Jason Barratt, one of Australia’s most exciting chefs. The retail boutique, Halcyon Atelier, showcases high-end designer fashion, accessories and homewares, including Lucy Folk, Muse, Summery Copenhagen, Matteau, Le Dog and Ruby Phyllis.

Words: Sue Wallace.

The Langham’s front deck (left) and an Ocean Suite (below); King Farm Cabin at Beechmont Estate (right).

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Words: Sue Wallace.

ACCOMMODATION

Secrets • Shhhh! It’s a secret, but rocker Cyndi Lauper drank at The Langham, Gold Coast’s Lobby Bar, as did Slash from Guns N’ Roses. And if you are wondering what the most expensive tipple is, a 30ml shot from the Macallan M Black Decanter, at $1690, will do it, followed by 30ml of Cognac Louis XIII for $580 a shot.

Privacy is utmost at these star havens, but for outrageous requests delivered by minders to discreet concierges, how about one star who insisted on a table full of tropical fruit, including sliced pineapple from a specific plantation, supplied every day after filming? Seems he never actually ate it – but liked the look of it after a hard day’s work.

Penthouse Suite (above) and in-suite spa bath (right) at The Darling; Halcyon Atelier at Halcyon House, Cabarita Beach.

Spotlight on The Darling

A HINTERLAND BREATHER My helicopter hovers over beautiful Beechmont Estate in the Hinterland, as cattle mooch around taking little notice of newcomers who have come for a breath of country air.

It’s just outside the small township of Beechmont, near Binna Burra in the Scenic Rim, a 45-minute drive southwest of the Gold Coast – or just 10 minutes by helicopter. The 30-hectare property, once a polo and Wagyu farm, neighbours the World Heritage-listed Lamington National Park with outlooks you can’t take your eyes off.

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My compact Hinterland View Cabin opens to an outdoor deck positioned to enjoy some of the best views of the countryside. There are also larger pavilions with vistas over the former polo field, where practice games or ‘chukkas’ were once played and polo clinics hosted, and which is now the helipad.

Kangaroos often hop by checking out what’s happening and there’s lots of colourful birdlife.

The estate is also home to the much-awarded The Paddock restaurant, and for great sunset views head to the sunset terrace for a stunning show.

• Step through the front doors of the opulent six-star The Darling at The Star Gold Coast and it’s all about design meets luxury head-on. My Stellar Suite on the 16th floor is home for the next two nights and when I open my doors it has the full-on wow factor.

Elegant opulence abounds with lavish touches, bespoke furnishings, pops of burgundy and gold, and a statement carpet that reflects the luxe touch of this 56-room hotel which also has a penthouse suite. My spacious bedroom has a comfy king bed, bedding and bathrobes by Italian brand Frette, and a pillow menu that’s heaven.

I can’t resist a soak in the oval-shaped bathtub in the big marble bathroom with a separate shower plus bathroom products from the luxe French range, Balmain Paris. The lounge area is perfect for nibbling on treats and watching TV, and the big balcony has dreamy views of the South Pacific – moon-gazing is also recommended.

A peek into the super-luxe penthouse reveals the ultimate fantasy world, with a deluxe circular spa to luxuriate in while soaking up the spectacular coastal views through floor-to-ceiling glass.

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e

Cooking Class

Meet the chefs behind some of the biggest dining sensations on the Gold Coast.

xecutive chef Simon Furley, of multi-hatted The Paddock at Beechmont Estate, creates his daily menus from scratch, stretching his culinary imagination and creativity, cooking over wood-fire with an emphasis on sustainable, local and ethical cooking.

“The flavour you get from cooking over an open fire is like nothing else – we love ancient and modern ways of cooking, but most of all love challenging ourselves to do things out of the ordinary,” he says.

Furley uses the best possible produce from the Scenic Rim, which you can enjoy views of from the chic barn-style restaurant with its cosy fire.

At Halcyon House at Cabarita Beach, chef Jason Barratt’s day often starts by foraging for the native beach herbs that

appear on his innovative evening menu at Paper Daisy. Dinner kicks off with native rock oysters with wild fennel, followed by Lismore Wagyu with mushrooms, black garlic and grilled broccoli leaf with a finale of Daintree chocolate, buckwheat and ripe banana parfait – sensational.

At Yamagen at the QT Gold Coast hotel, chef Adam Lane has taken sophisticated Japanese dining to a new level. Fresh from winning Chef of the Year at the Queensland Hotel Awards for Excellence for his boundary-pushing dishes, the chef (ex-Tetsuya’s and David Thompson’s Nahm in Sydney) says he loves the lightness and delicacy of Japanese cuisine.

“I really enjoy the challenge of mixing ingredients that you wouldn’t usually think of putting together – finding the perfect balance of flavours is what keeps our work exciting,” he says.

Executive chef of The Star Gold Coast Uday Huja oversees more than 350 chefs at dining outlets across the busy complex. A globally renowned chef, his domain now includes the sensational 19th-floor rooftop restaurant and bar, Nineteen at The Star, with its stunning pool and balcony overlooking the Gold Coast. Start with a sunset margarita on the deck, then embark on a culinary journey of delicacies such as Patagonian toothfish with grilled baby gem, prosciutto and buttermilk dressing.

The Paddock Chef Simon Furley (left); his dry-aged beef dish (above); Paper Daisy’s choc-banana parfait.

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The Star’s Japanese-inspired Kiyomi restaurant showcases fabulous dishes, including hiramasa kingfish with miso ceviche and crispy potato, and the delicious tuna crispy rice.

Leading Australian chef Matthew Woolford heads Akoya at The Langham, Gold Coast with a menu brimming with fine bounty and a focus on seafood – think freshly shucked oysters, bugs and lobster.

“Akoya celebrates the laidback coastal lifestyle and unparalleled beauty of Queensland’s beachside surroundings with signature dishes best passed along tables with conversation,” says Woolford who has worked across venues in Hong Kong, Singapore, Thailand and Korea.

“The menu’s suitably local and seasonal – as for mains, much is cooked on the theatrical asado grill seen from the restaurant’s dining room into the open kitchen – from wood-fired Moreton Bay bugs basted in whipped sea urchin butter to the responsibly sourced trawler-caught prawns from the coast of North Stradbroke.”

For elegant Cantonese fine dining, the famed T’ang Court showcases the essence of the South China region using fine local produce. The restaurant was awarded an Australian Good Food Guide Chef Hat this year.

Words: Sue Wallace.

DINING

SPECIAL REPORT / LUXURY GOLD COAST

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Afternoon tea at The Langham • Mmm, what to choose first … it’s an assault on your senses as a three-tier Taste of France afternoon tea arrives in the elegant Palm Court lounge.

Executive pastry chef Johann Vanier draws inspiration from his French heritage and there’s a rich tapestry of French gastronomy, while the finest locally sourced ingredients are employed in a selection of savoury treats and sweet desserts.

“My personal recommendation is the tarte tatin – the new interpretation of the quintessential French dessert is made using Queensland pineapples, nestled in a buttery pastry shell, as opposed to the traditional French recipe made using apples,” he says.

“For those looking to indulge in more savoury flavours, the croque madame offers a sophisticated twist on the classic French sandwich, combining the rich and nutty flavour of Heidi gruyere cheese with layers of creamy bechamel sauce, while a perfectly cooked, sunnyside-up quail egg cascades over lightly toasted bread.”

Words: Sue Wallace.

Clockwise from above: Halcyon House’s Jason Barratt; Langham tea service; T’ang Court; The Star’s Kiyomi and Nineteen bar (left).

• Barbie star and producer Margot Robbie was born in Dalby, Queensland and grew up on the Gold Coast before she broke into acting via Neighbours. The Babylon star recently served customers her new Papa Salt gin range at a Gold Coast bar. She is also a fan of the baked treats and brunches at Mermaid Beach’s Bam Bam Bakehouse, where she hosted her hen’s party.

Other A-listers who grace the Gold Coast’s sandy shores include Zac Efron, Cody Simpson and Ian Thorpe.

Watch out for racing royalty during the glamorous The Star Gold Coast Magic Millions carnival, attended

by Zara Phillips and hubby Mike Tindall – it’s set for January 5-14, 2024.

DINING

Let’s Go Party!

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SPECIAL REPORT / LUXURY GOLD COAST

EXPERIENCES

Shake a Move

t

here’s nothing like sitting on the deck of a glamorous catamaran, the wind in your hair on a sparkling sunny day, enjoying the blue waters of the Gold Coast.

The region is a boat lovers’ paradise, with the highest number of boat owners per capita in Australia. With 57 kilometres of beaches, a protected Broadwater and 260 kilometres of navigable waterways, it’s no surprise the Gold Coast has more than 40,000 registered water-craft. It is also Australia’s key marine-craft manufacturing centre, home to a $330 million boat-building industry involving about 450 companies.

All this boating enterprise is matched with beautiful Mediterranean-style weather – the region clocks up 300 sunny days a year. Fishing is a popular pastime as there’s a good chance of catching

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snapper, flathead or whiting, but my goal was to get out on the water in style.

THIS BOATING LIFE Step aboard one of three catamarans in the Sailing in Paradise fleet and settle in for a wonderful day of exploration and fun, skimming the waterways off Surfers Paradise.

Its signature vessel, Spirit of Gwonda, is a Seawind 1050 35-foot sailing catamaran purpose-built for entertaining and day cruises. It is the only one of its kind on the Gold Coast and guests can laze on the trampoline sections or soak up the sun on deck.

Owner Steve Buckley says he hoped to offer an affordable luxury experience for those wanting to get out on the water and encounter the Gold Coast’s beautiful waterways and islands – but most of all,

he wants people to have fun. With our fun crew of Dave at the wheel and Maddy Everett as host, we follow the coastline, eyes peeled for marine life. We are not disappointed as we spot dolphins and a lone wallaby on a beach.

As we nibble from a platter of fruit and savoury products, we toast the Gold Coast with a glass of sparkling. But the best is left for last as we return, watching a cerise sunset streak the sky on the Broadwater and all too soon the sun sinks behind the mountains of the Gold Coast hinterland and casts a glow across the calm waters – yes, sailing is fun. sailinginparadise.com.au HELI YEAH! From hovering over the expansive waterways to the best bird’s-eye view, helicopter flights over the Gold Coast are

Words: Sue Wallace.

Catamarans, helicopters, superyachts and sports cars offer the best ways to get around the Gold Coast in style.

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Yachting that’s super

Words: Sue Wallace.

Gold Coast native Cameron Bray, founder and director of The Superyacht People, has seen his hometown morph into a high-end destination.

• “We are seeing great demand from holidaymakers for our super-luxe yachts, and guests wanting something really special to celebrate a birthday or anniversary,” says Bray, who has worked on superyachts for a Saudi princess.

He has access to more than 20 luxury yachts on the Gold Coast and international charters throughout the world. The boats are always captained and fully crewed.

“The Gold Coast is so well suited for luxury yachts, with its many calm waterways and interesting places to see,” he says. “We’ve had calls from celebrities over the years, wanting to do something special with their families because out on the water is a very private way of entertaining … everyone can relax.”

Bray says the company has organised outings on the water for Australian model Rachael Finch and segments of The Bachelor and the Australian version of Below Deck were filmed on the yachts.

“The waters of the Gold Coast are crystal clear and great for swimming and to have fun with water toys ... Jet-skis and golf putting – using biodegradable balls that dissolve in the water – are very popular,” he says. Catering is also organised for the trips.

Bray says that he hopes people walk away from his charters with fabulous memories that last a lifetime. superyachtpeople.com

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TEE TIME Feel like some exercise? The beautiful RACV Royal Pines Golf Course at Benowa offers a choice of three 18-hole course combinations catering for golfers of all standards. Its manicured greens are dotted with scenic lakes and deep bunkers, against an idyllic backdrop of the mountains.

Golf operations manager Simon Gough says the course was re-designed by renowned golf course architect Graham Marsh and is considerably challenging, but it has a great following.

“It really is one of the best courses on the Gold Coast and the surrounds are immaculate,” he says.

And yes, some players do arrive by helicopter at the resort, which offers revamped accommodation and dining with great views over the course. racv.com.au LAMBO LOVER Although I’m behind the wheel of a rental car with a top speed of 305 kilometres per hour, I’m likely the outright winner of the award for slowest Lamborghini Urus driver ever. But with each twist and turn on the road I become a little more confident and accustomed to the attention my matte-black beast attracts.

What a dream it is to drive down to Cabarita Beach, and the beautiful

EXPERIENCES

all part of the fun. My scenic flight with Gold Coast Helitours leaves from Main Beach Heliport on a perfect sunny day.

Pilot Dan does a safety check and we are soon flying along the coast, at eye level with some of the tallest of the Gold Coast’s high-rises.

“This is one perfect day,” says Dan, and I agree. One minute we are flying along the pretty coast and the next zipping over picturesque canals and into the hinterland of my next staycation.

It’s about a 10-minute flight to Beechmont Estate, over a patchwork of farmland, while the drive is about 45 minutes. Dan makes a perfect landing and returns for me the following day. goldcoasthelitours.com.au

beachfront boutique Halcyon House, 45 minutes south of Surfers Paradise.

I even get rousing applause from a group of tradies as I carefully park “my” Urus. And it’s in good company, as there are many other flash cars parked nearby.

Queensland Luxury Car Rentals is 25 minutes from Gold Coast Airport and offers personalised luxury and sports car hire, including delivery and pick up from your hotel or the airport. queenslandluxurycarrentals.com.au

Clockwise, from left: Gold Coast Helitours; writer Sue Wallace out sailing; behind the wheel of a Lamborghini Urus; a Sailing in Paradise catamaran.

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SHOPPING

SPECIAL REPORT / LUXURY GOLD COAST

Dress the Part

i

When shopping on the Gold Coast involves designer labels, a stylist’s touch and a million-dollar necklace...

“There are 83 pieces of leather that have gone into making the bag,” says the manager, who adds that it can be seen as an investment piece that can be resold.

Close by, in the striking Hermès boutique with its eye-catching artistic

shop windows, there is an iconic Himalaya Kelly bag for $95,000, and it’s definitely a showstopper, too.

Then I drop into some luxe Australian brands; first up is Silk Laundry, favoured

by Kylie Minogue, then Flannel, an Australian lifestyle brand that creates beautifully crafted keepsake pieces.

Since a slick makeover in 2016, Pacific Fair has become a destination in itself.

Its cabanas, palm trees, fountains and tropical gardens create a unique ambience for a shopping centre and encourage people to linger.

It is home to one of Australia’s largest collections of luxury brands, including Burberry, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Versace, Coach and Tiffany and Co. There are also global mega brands such as Sephora, Uniqlo and Zara, along with H&M’s flagship store and Australian retailers.

Words: Sue Wallace.

t’s 10am and I am sipping bubbles – it’s 5pm somewhere in the world, and it befits the luxe atmosphere of the lavish Bvlgari Boutique at Pacific Fair shopping centre, Broadbeach.

The store has an opulent fit-out with Italian-inspired architecture designed to exhibit the brand’s collections of jewellery, watches and accessories.

The most expensive piece in the store?

“That’s easy,” says the friendly assistant, who dons a black glove to retrieve a magnificent diamond-studded snake necklace – it costs about $1 million and is doing the rounds of all Bvlgari stores for customers to admire. I wear it for just a moment and am soon swooning like everyone else in the shop.

Next, it’s Prada, where they have just sold a Himalayan Crocodile bag to a local fashionista for $59,000.

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Words: Sue Wallace.

SHOPPING Kate Halpin, senior marketing manager at The GPT Group, says there’s always a big demand for luxury products at Pacific Fair and people love to shop with all the high-end brands under one roof.

Services include five-star hotel pick up and drop off, a smart bespoke visitors’ lounge, car transfer service, valet lounge and stylist and concierge services.

Halpin says the centre is built to embrace an indoor-outdoor precinct, celebrating the local Gold Coast lifestyle.

There are cafes and restaurants to satisfy every craving, alongside Gold Class, VMAX and 4DX movie sessions at Event Cinemas. For the little ones, EMF Jnr has a giant indoor play area with childminding and there are four free kids’ play spaces throughout the centre.

Clockwise, from above: Shop with a stylist on the Gold Coast; Bvlgari’s $1m necklace; shopping heaven at the resort-like Pacific Fair; Hermès Kelly bag.

Guess who I saw…

• Star-spotting is a bit of a hobby on the Gold Coast when movies and TV series are in production – Aquaman, Godzilla vs. Kong, Pirates of the Caribbean and Pacific Rim Uprising, plus many more blockbusters, were filmed on the Gold Coast. After filming Elvis here, Baz Luhrmann loved it so much, he decided to move his production company headquarters from Los Angeles. There are also world-class movie and TV production facilities and the largest studio in Australia – Village Roadshow.

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A head for threads • Stylist Louise Chambers loves making people look and feel good about themselves in new clothes. The former actor and model has been styling clients, media personalities and photo shoots for the past decade.

“I love fashion and I love helping people find the fun in fashion,” says Chambers, who offers several packages with options from a quick wardrobe refresh to a complete makeover.

Our session starts in the valet lounge, where we decide to visit some high-end shops to see the latest trends.

“I often have someone looking for a special occasion dress, such as a wedding or mother-ofthe-bride outfit, and also multi-generations. We spend the day visiting shops and finding new trends for all,” says Chambers.

She isn’t tied to any one fashion brand and offers honest advice on how to dress to impress.

Chambers loves mixing and matching – say, an expensive top paired with less expensive pants or heels – to create the perfect look.

The cost for a private two-hour session is $265 per person or $370 for three hours with two to six people. Complimentary tea or coffee is included in the package, as is valet parking.

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22/8/2023 3:40 pm

a

Well and Good

You can relax in a lavish Gold Coast spa, knowing you’re in good hands.

aaaah… I’m in heaven. Well, it feels like it, as I am caressed with 24kt gold-plated hot rocks in one of eight treatment rooms at the elegant Chuan Spa at The Langham, Gold Coast. The True Gold treatment starts with an invigorating full-body exfoliation to remove dry skin, followed by a relaxing warm shower.

Then I am drizzled with pure 24kt gold body oil and massaged with the world’s most opulent AMRA Gold Hot Stones.

Later AMRA’s unique Precious Drops of Gold are sprinkled over my body, leaving

my skin feeling refreshed and radiant.

The final magic potion is the 24kt Gold Body Spritz, and I leave feeling special and recharged with that golden glow.

Chuan Spa manager Emma Sirett says this has become a popular spa option.

“It’s a very luxurious treatment and something special and it’s got everything including exfoliation, hydration and helps with anti-ageing – plus the 24k gold plate evokes that feeling of luxury,” she says.

Sirett says spa treatments go hand in hand with luxury holidays and there’s something to suit everyone, from hen’s parties to multi-generational getaways.

One innovative treatment includes a lava-shell massage at Halcyon Spa with self-heating natural tiger-clam shells collected sustainably from the South Pacific and lava gels containing minerals, algae and Dead Sea kelp.

The spa, designed by Anna Spiro, uses products from iconic Australian skincare

brand Sodashi. Featuring stunningly appointed treatment rooms, a tranquil relaxation area, full-amenity change facilities and a unique dome-shaped steam room, it’s the perfect place to chill.

At Beechmont Estate Day Spa in all that fresh country air, one of the most popular treatments is the Berry Bright Glow facial with a blueberry detox peel, infused with fiery paprika, which leaves you feeling warm and tingling as the blueberry peel creates heat, stimulates blood flow and increases circulation.

The Beechmont Estate Signature Spa Massage is a standout. It’s a wellrounded treatment for the ultimate in pampering and is inspired by the local flora of the pretty hinterland estate.

The full-body relaxation massage features a special blend of nativeAustralian essential oils, an artisan back scrub made from locally sourced, organic ingredients, a stimulating scalp treatment and a bespoke mini facial.

Words: Sue Wallace.

SPA & WELLNESS

SPECIAL REPORT / LUXURY GOLD COAST

Halcyon Spa at Halcyon House, Cabarita Beach (above and far right); Chuan Spa at The Langham, Gold Coast (right).

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Words: Sue Wallace.

SPA & WELLNESS At The Darling, Azure Spa’s Ocean Experience uses the finest sea salt or velvety foams for tactile exfoliation while refreshing textures with red algae extracts provide a boost of energy and moisture and leave you feeling a million dollars.

Spa treats are conducted in six treatment rooms, including a dual treatment space and there’s an exclusive outdoor cabana space to hire. Spa guests can also use the enhanced gym, featuring a range of connected equipment from Technogym or just laze by the pool.

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Fun facts • The Gold Coast’s vegetation ranges from mountain rainforest to coastal wetlands and is home to more than 34 species of amphibians, 323 bird species, 72 mammal species, 71 different reptiles and 25 species of fish.

The tropical rainforests feature many bushwalks, and you can cool off in popular swimming holes, including Currumbin rock pools, Cedar Creek rock pools and Tallebudgera Creek. Echo Beach on the northern side is a local favourite for swimming, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding and fishing.

Take your hiking boots and wander the waterfalls of Lamington National Park to immerse yourself in the UNESCO World Heritagelisted Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area, the most extensive subtropical rainforest in the world – it’s magic.

Park your surfboard • Metered surfboard parking is a thing these days, as more and more ride the waves. To cater for surfers, some of the beaches on the Gold Coast have introduced metered surfboard parking. Surfers can leave their much-loved surfboards in designated racks and pay a small fee to ensure they have a spot for their board after surfing. Don’t miss the Gold Coast’s lifeguard towers, which are uniquely designed and painted with vibrant colours – definitely Instagram fodder.

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23/8/2023 12:25 pm

My Life In Travel

“Nothing prepared me for the view of Earth from space.”

With Resilient Lady’s arrival in Australian waters, SIR RICHARD BRANSON tells Annabel Fenwick Elliott his fondest travel memories.

Four key travel moments in Branson’s life:

1. His first trip to Necker

Sir Richard Branson purchased the uninhabited island back in 1978, early in his career when he was still building Virgin Records, initially “to woo Joan”, his girlfriend and now his wife.

Drawn by its name, Necker being in the British Virgin Islands, his opening offer was a low-ball one, to say the least. “I by no means had the cash to buy an island,” he recalls. “Luckily, the realtor didn’t know this and offered me an all-expenses-paid trip to see the islands that weekend.” The price quoted once they touched down on its shores was $6 million.

“Smitten with the unspoilt paradise, and keen to impress my new love, I offered the highest amount I could afford: $100,000.

As you can imagine, the realtor was less than impressed, and left us high and dry to find our own way back home.”

A year later, with no other offers made, the owner was desperate to sell. “Virgin Records was in a much better position than it had been a year before, so I quickly agreed to a purchase price of $180,000 (£145,000) – the only condition was that I would need to build a resort on the island within four years.” The deal was struck and thus Necker was born. Today, after much development, it’s the place he and his family, and 175 of their staff, call home.

2. A slice of African paradise

Dubbed fondly as his “Necker in the bush”, Branson acquired Ulusaba in South Africa 102

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in 1994. “The first time Joan and I visited, it was a shack on a rock,” he says. “We were greeted by two leopards mating – they go at it for three days, quite the challenge – and we stayed in a tiny little makeshift treehouse, wobbling high above the plain. I knew I’d discovered another little slice of paradise.” More than two decades later and after several renovations, Ulusaba today covers 13,000 hectares of bush and hosts two camps with 20 rooms.

Ulusaba’s name derives from the ancient Shangaan warriors who once occupied it, and means “place of little fear”, a nod to its elevated position over the surrounding landscape. “We’ve had leopards who’ve felt safe enough to give birth right by the lodge,” he tells me.

For Branson, it’s one of only few places in the world he devotes to “non-business travel”. It’s where he was when his daughter Holly’s then-fiancé Freddie called to request her hand in marriage, and where Sam later wed his wife, Isabella. Most recently, he took his grandchildren on safari here.

3. His mother’s Moroccan hideout

It was Branson’s mother, Eve, who fell in love with Kasbah Tamadot, a Moroccan property perched in the Atlas Mountains, in the late 1990s, when they were in the region gearing up for his transatlantic hot air balloon crossing. At the time it was owned by an Italian antiques dealer, and Eve persuaded him to buy it over breakfast – “he’s always most susceptible then”, she stated at the time. “Mum sat me down with my dad and told me they would not talk to me again if I didn’t buy it there and then,” Branson recalls. “I think they were joking but it did the trick.”

It opened as an opulent boutique hotel in 2005, featuring an array of rooms, suites and Berber tents, as

High flyer

This page, from top: Sir Richard Branson; kite-surfing on NeckerIsland.

well as two floodlit tennis courts, two pools, a billiards room and an open-air cinema.

“I took mum back to Kasbah recently, just before she passed into the next world,” Branson tells me. “We visited, as we always did, the women there who her foundation has supported for over 20 years; teaching them crafts such as woodwork, crafts and embroidery. She couldn’t stop smiling, and I loved seeing how happy they were to see her too.” Eve, who Branson named Virgin Galactic’s carrier mothership after, died in January 2021 at the age of 98, from complications related to Covid.

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4. Finally, into space

“There’s a reason so many songs are about the other-worldly feeling of flight,” said Branson as he was strapped into his slick seat on Virgin Galactic’s rocket last July, when he made history as the first businessperson to make it into space. “We went from zero to 3500mph in eight seconds, and then the silence was all-encompassing,” he says. “I had dreamed about this since I was a child, but nothing prepared me for the view of Earth from space. It was pure, unadulterated magic.”

Back on solid ground upon re-entry, Branson was straight into analytic mode.

“I’d like to do a couple more flights so we Cruise &Travel

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can fine-tune the experience before our first paying customers follow me soon,” he told me last year, of the 700 ticket-holders who have already paid up to $250,000 for the privilege; Leonardo DiCaprio and Angelina Jolie rumoured to be among them. “It’s the little things that make a big difference with Virgin Atlantic, and this will be no different. For example, it has come to my attention that once you’ve got the parachute on, the spacesuit is such that you can’t take a pee. I’d like to change that.” CT

Private property

This page, from top: Branson’s Moroccan retreat; leopards are a feature at his South African reserve.

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23/8/2023 4:32 pm

Last Word

What kind of hotel guest are you?

Take our quiz to find out.

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From ordering midnight burgers to stealing the slippers, what does our behaviour say about us? Ed Grenby asks the tough questions.

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23/8/2023 2:11 pm

J

ohnny Depp isn’t everyone’s cup of overpriced cologne, but we can surely all sympathise with the time he (so the legend goes) trashed his hotel room (at The Mark, in New York) then blamed an armadillo for the $10,000 damage.

The truth is, we all go a bit weird when we get to a hotel. Would you normally, for example, call down and order a midnight burger to eat in your bedroom at home? Walk the corridors of any other public place in a fluffy dressing gown?

Expect someone to sneak into your room and draw your curtains while you’re at dinner, then get slightly angry if they haven’t left a laughably small chocolate on your pillow? Or, oddest of all, watch the Bloomberg channel?

You wouldn’t, of course (not even Depp does), but that’s not to say that we all stay in exactly the same room at the Hotel Bonkers: in fact, people go around the resort bend in different ways.

Some go deep diva (“I wish to complain to the General Manager about the lack of sunshine”), others become the opposite (“No, I insist. It’s far too hot, and my bags are far too heavy. I’ll carry them all up and let me take those other guests’ cases for you too”). Some try to recreate exactly their life at home (“Did you remember to pack the Vegemite, love?”), others take the opportunity to experiment with changing the very fundamentals of their personality (yes, they try the bidet).

Not sure which one of those is you?

Never fear. We’ve devised a test (think of it as one of those registration forms you have to complete at check-in that asks if you want a newspaper in the morning, without telling you if you’re going to have to pay an extortionate amount for it) and find out finally, exactly and entirely scientifically what kind of hotel guest you are…

QUESTION 1 Right. The porter’s delivered your bags, you’ve tried, awkwardly, to tip him, and now you’re finally alone in your room. Do you: a) Unpack your whole case neatly into the two tiny drawers and three coathangers so generously provided. b) Bounce on the bed like kids. Then bounce on the bed distinctly not like kids… (“Sorry, was this question supposed to be about luggage?

Whatever.”)

c) Hang your shirts in the bathroom while you take a long hot shower. It steams out all the creases and is quicker than any hotel’s pressing service. d) Leave the unpacking for a couple of days, then realise it’s hardly worth it now, so just spend the whole week rummaging fruitlessly through suitcases and complaining that you can’t find anything.

QUESTION 2 Time for bed (despite what your errant body clock is unhelpfully trying to tell you). Do you: a) Pop on the PJs and assume the standard position on exactly the same side of the bed you sleep on at home.

You’re not a pervert, dammit. b) Crank up the volume on those semi-pornographic pop videos on the TV, and hit the mini-bar hard. It’s a holiday, not a study week! c) Seal the curtains gaplessly shut using the trouser “crocodile clips” on the closet’s coathangers, then sleep on the side of the bed without a phone or clock next to it. Smart stayers know that that’s the side that gets less wear and tear because solo business travellers always sleep next to the tech. d) Sigh contentedly as you slip between those 300-thread Egyptian cotton sheets – before tossing and turning all night because the pillows aren’t right, the sheets are tucked in too tight, and what’s that constant damn hum?

QUESTION 3 Result! For once, you’ve made it down to breakfast before they start clearing it all away and may now choose anything you like. What’s on your plate? a) A nice bowl of muesli and semiskimmed, like at home, please and thank you. b) Bacon, egg, sausage, waffles, pancakes, maple syrup, fruit, pain au chocolat, something not readilyidentifiable from the Asian section, yoghurt and Nutella. Yes, all on one plate – different rules apply abroad. c) Coffee. d) All of the above plus enough paper serviettes to wrap half of it for lunch.

“WE ALL GO A BIT WEIRD WHEN WE GET TO A HOTEL. WOULD YOU NORMALLY ... ORDER A MIDNIGHT BURGER TO EAT IN YOUR BEDROOM?”

QUESTION 4 You’re heading out for the day.

What’s the last thing you do before leaving the room?

a) Tidy up for the maid. And maybe clean the toilet and sink. Perhaps a little light dusting, too: we don’t want her to think we’re animals. b) Chuck all – yes, all – the clothes onto the bed. That way the maid will have to fold everything up for us. c) Place passport, laptop and backup credit card in safe (main credit card stays on person at all times). Code is first six digits of frequent flyer number – well how on earth are you supposed to remember your first child’s date of birth? d) Remove the ‘Do Not Disturb’ sign.

Consider putting up the ‘Please Make Up My Room’ one, but decide it’s a bit aggressive, so hope they just, sort of, know.

QUESTION 5 Sad-face emoji – your holiday’s over and it’s time to check out. What do you take with you from the room? a) Your own rubbish. You have pretty strong suspicions that – despite the card in the bathroom saying they care about the environment and stuff, so won’t be bothering to wash your towels – they don’t separate recycling from landfill. b) Everything. (Dressing gown? Check.

Remote control? Check. Hairdryer?

Check. Slippers you’ll never wear again in your entire life? Check.) c) The contents of the mini-bar’s most expensive bottle of gin or vodka. Not the bottle itself, mind; you’ve refilled that with water. They’ll never know, you’ll never pay. d) Just the toiletries. And the soap. And pens. And nail kit. And laundry bag. And you never know when you’ll need cotton buds, right…?

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23/8/2023 4:47 pm

Last Word MOSTLY As

How did you do?

Sorry, why do you bother going on holiday again?

You would clearly be happier staying at home, and possibly rearranging all the identical tins of home-brand clear soup in your pantry so each label faces exactly the same way. Next time you’re staying at a hotel, try shaking things up a bit – or maybe go completely wild and, say, try the hand-held shower head instead of the above-the-head one?!

MOSTLY Bs You’re the hotel hedonist, the resort rogue, the accommodation anarchist.

Cleaners hate you, maintenance managers fear you, and fellow guests exchange raised-eyebrow looks with each other when you swagger down to breakfast still in what they think is your sleepwear (imagine if they saw what you actually wear in bed!). Which is fine as long as you’re having fun and not spoiling anyone else’s – bear in mind the Western Wagga Motor Inn isn’t Hollywood’s Chateau Marmont, and not everyone thinks you’re cool (‘Mum, Dad, you’re so embarrassing…’).

MOSTLY Cs You’re clearly a professionallevel travel expert.

You know your way around a hotel better than the bellboy. But you march your family around the resort like they’re on an SAS recon mission, and you treat your holiday like a business trip (we’d hate to know how you treat your business trips).

Executive summary? You need to slow down and smell the roses/jasmine/ oleander/massage oils/small-batch gin, depending on the destination. Basically, anything but the coffee. Please… don’t have any more coffee.

MOSTLY Ds You are normal.

You are muddling through with a mixture of muted decadence, mild thoughtfulness, friendliness and bad habits. You are, in other words, a mature Aussie on holiday.

Keep up the moderately good work and try to enjoy yourself. Above all, don’t feel guilty: you’re in the one place where when someone tells you ‘You treat this place like a hotel’, that’s actually a good thing… CT 106

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SUBSCRIBE, SAVE & WIN CRUISEPASSENGER.COM.AU

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23/8/2023 4:11 pm

EXPEDITION TO THE JAPANESE SUBTROPICAL ISLANDS Naha, Okinawa to Keelung, Taiwan* | 7 nights

Departs 16 March, 6 & 13 April 2024* aboard Le Jacques-Cartier A voyage that takes you to the heart of the sublime landscapes of the tropical islands in southern Japan. On this 7-night itinerary aboard Le Jacques-Cartier from Naha to Keelung, you will discover the rich natural heritage, traditional villages and craft of the Okinawa and Yaeyama Islands, in the Ryukyu archipelago alongside your team of expedition experts, in Ponant’s signature barefoot luxury!

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NEW TO PONANT? SAVE $800 AS A WELCOME OFFER!* 1300 737 178 | au.ponant.com | or contact your travel agent *Embarkation and disembarkation ports vary for each date. Welcome Offer: AUD$800 discount is per stateroom based on double occupancy in Australian Dollars (AUD). Offer valid for guests travelling with PONANT for the first time. More conditions apply, refer to au.ponant.com. ABN: 35 166 676 517. Photographs: © Studio PONANT - Nick Rains, Oliver Touron - Adobe Stock.

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