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Readers’ Choice cruisepassenger.com.au

• ALL THE WINNERS

AUSTRALIA/NZ AU$14.95

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IN WITH THE NEW

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AWARDS MAGAZINE 38 LINES RATED CT08RC_028_001_RSS_OFC.indd 1

• Kimberley with Ponant • Greece & Turkey • Danube dining + more

cruıse READERS’ CHOICE 2023

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Blown away

Destinations that change your life CT08_Gatefold_Outer.indd 3

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Your Journey

THREE RIVERS: DANUBE, MAIN & RHINE

DANUBE KINGDOMS: BAVARIA, AUSTRIA & HUNGARY

Amsterdam to Regensburg (or reverse): 10 days from $8,680* AUD per person exc. airfare.

Port of calls: Amsterdam, Nijmegen, Köln, Bonn, Koblenz, Boppard, Frankfurt, Wertheim, Marktheidenfeld, Würzburg, Bamberg, Bayreuth, Nürnberg and Regensburg.

Highlight dinner: Guests will enjoy an evening at the opulent Schlosshotel Kronberg.

Munich to Budapest: 12 days from $10,130* AUD pp exc. airfare.

Port of calls: Includes a four-night, land-based exploration of Bavaria with hotel stays in Partenkirchen and Munich. A seven-night Danube cruise visiting Passau, Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest and more.

Highlight dinner: A Tauck Exclusive evening at a private Viennese palace, Palais Pallavicini.

RHINE CONNOISSEUR: MONTREUX TO BRUSSELS

HIDDEN WATERWAYS OF FLANDERS AND HOLLAND

Montreux to Brussels (or reverse): 11 days from $9,840* AUD per person exc. airfare.

Port of calls: A three-night stay at the Fairmont Montreux Palace.

A seven-night cruise visits Strasbourg, Rüdesheim, Koblenz and Düsseldorf along the Rhine before travelling on to Gorinchem, Antwerp and Brussels.

Highlight dinner: A Tauck-exclusive reception and dinner are featured at Slot Loevestein.

Brussels to Amsterdam (or reverse): 8 days from $6,800* AUD per person exc. airfare.

Port of calls: Brussels, Antwerp, Bruges, Gorinchem, Leiden, Rotterdam and Amsterdam.

Highlight dinner: A Tauckexclusive reception and dinner are featured at Slot Loevestein.

For more information on Tauck’s full portfolio on 2024 river cruises, contact your travel advisor on 1800 962 043 or go to tauck.com.au

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Uniquely Tauck.

Whether you’re experiencing the Rhine, Danube, Douro, Rhône or Seine rivers, the magic of our award-winning European river cruises goes far beyond the riverboat or the landmarks you’ll visit. It’s in the way you experience the rivers with Tauck, enjoying USE TH I S ON E: the intimate ambiance and personalized service, the places you’ll discover off the beaten path, and the uncommon access to local culture and exclusive, uniquely Tauck experiences you can’t get on your own.

For more information, contact your travel advisor

TEXT VERSIO N:

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VOYAGE AROUND THE GLOBE IN STYLE ON BOARD OUR BEAUTIFULLY RENOVATED SHIPS, WHERE WORLD-CLASS DINING AND ENTERTAINMENT MEET EXCEPTIONAL SERVICE AND EXPERIENCES.

TO VIEW AND BOOK ONE OF OUR CURATED ITINERARIES, CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR, VISIT CRYSTALCRUISES.COM OR CALL 1300-503-640.

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Contents

Cruise

Travel

December 2023 Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au Editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Associate editor Grant Jones grant@bigsplashmedia.com.au Sub editor Claire Waddell Art director Catherine Martin

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Commercial director Phil Mahony phil@bigsplashmedia.com.au Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au Contributors and writers Jane Archer, Bernadette Chua; Louise Goldsbury, Grant Jones; Peter Lynch; Sally Macmillan, Catherine McGregor, Teresa Ooi, Francesca Syz, Sue Wallace, Brian Wexham, Charlie Wexham Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 – Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 – International cruisepassenger.com.au Cover: Celebrating Holi Festival, India Printed by IVE

cruisepassenger.com.au

Cruise & Travel magazine is published MULTI MEDIA COMMUNICATIONS

by Big Splash Media Pty Ltd Suite 206, Level 2 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited.

Copyright Big Splash Media Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher.

All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided. Always consult your travel agent.

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Contents / Summer 2023 16

Upfront The latest news in the rise of six-figure family holidays, new ship launches, the rise of ecotourism and how the battle of the yachts is heating up.

OCEANS

40

New kids on the block

Take a look at the new ships launching in 2024.

Reviews

42

Star du Rock

A visit to the wild Kimberley with Ponant.

48

Quest for perfection

A small-ship journey through the Med.

54

In the red

On board the sexy and saucy Resilient Lady.

60

Would you like a virgin pina colada?

Charlie Wexam returns to Cunard, nine years after her first voyage.

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RIVERS Reviews

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90

Blue Danube An opulent Uniworld sailing to see three countries on the Rhine River.

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ESCAPES

A former Crystal Cruises river ship has been revived and rejuvenated.

The Lux-perience

Raving about Ravel

90

Why high-end hotels are more than just a place to sleep.

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Royal tour The palaces and palatial mansions of India with Abercrombie & Kent.

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Welcome to party central Mykonos in Greece is the place to be seen. And the Kyma has the best address.

102

When in Rome…

Step inside this grand hotel set in the heart of the Eternal City.

Subscribe & Save WIN a $2500 cruise voucher Never miss an issue of Cruise & Travel – subscribe today and get it home-delivered You’ll go into the draw for a $2500 cruise voucher

Stairway to heaven

Plus you’ll save an incredible $37 – it costs just $50 for four issues

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Subscribe today!

106

Recalibrate and reconnect with nature at Crane Lodge just an hour from Sydney.

Airline reviews

It’s the battle of the Middle Eastern airlines - Qatar vs Etihad.

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Travel

Travel

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MAGIC DISNEYSEA AT

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Feasting on Europe

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in collaboration with

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ALL YOU 1

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2023

9/8/2023 3:28 pm

Disney

Food revolution:

WONDER

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11:34

am

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tundra to

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• Disney in Australia • Regent in Europe • Luxury on the Gold Coast

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3 FREE MAGAZINES

2:10 pm

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My life in travel

Melissa Doyle tells of her favourite far-flung travel experiences.

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Last word

First it was the daily towels.

Is this the end of our hotel slippers?

Cruise &Travel

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AUSTRALIA/NZ AU$14.95

Where next?

60 great ways to avoid the crowds CT07_001_Cover.indd 2

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Visit our website: cruisepassenger.com.au 11

6/11/2023 3:32 pm

Welcome

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Cool-cations D

o you feel your best self only when you’re on holiday? If you do, you’re not alone. According to a new survey of 27,000 travellers across 33 countries, almost threequarters of us say we feel more alive when we are travelling.

The survey by Booking.com also found that climate change is likely to change the way we book next year. Apparently staying cool and close to water will be a trend for 36 per cent of us.

Of course, they have a buzzword for it: cool-cationing. Almost three-quarters of those surveyed said being close to water instantly makes them feel more relaxed. Which probably explains the huge rise in cruise bookings.

More than 65 per cent said they wanted to be more like their holiday selves in their day-to-day lives. So, if you see more Hawaiian shirts and deck chairs in the office, you’ll know why.

Welcome to our summer edition. We’re particularly proud to present this issue. Not just because our team has been on the road for many weeks so we can bring you reviews that will help you choose the right holiday, but also because this is the time of year when we publish your views on the best in travel – particularly in cruising.

Our Readers’ Choice Awards are important because the verdict represents you, our loyal – and very knowledgeable – readers. You told us you cruise up to four times a year – many of you have taken well over 10 itineraries. And you’ve experienced destinations across the planet. This makes your judgement particularly pertinent.

You can find out what your fellow readers think in our Readers’ Choice special inside this magazine. There are quite a few surprises.

This summer is particularly exciting for Australia. We’re on the radar of almost every major travel company. As a result, we’re getting a lot of attention.

In cruise, there are more lines than ever offering newer ships and better itineraries, and working extra hard to win you over.

In land tours, many global travel operators are opening offices or stepping up their offerings.

The trend towards longer vacations is really taking hold, with many now joining cruises with land tours or simply sailing back-to-back.

And the last piece of research that won’t surprise many of our readers: the rise in the cost of living means we will be employing special money-saving hacks to cut costs – but pampering ourselves with à la carte luxuries – like buying a day pass to a five-star hotel so you can use the pool and spa rather than booking a room.

Enjoy the magazine! CT

Cool runnings

Sled-dog racing in the Arctic regions is a popular sport – and tourist attraction.

5 WAYS TO

STAY COOL

With all predictions saying we’re facing a hot summer, here are five ways to be a cool-cationer.

1/ ALASKA

The northernmost US state is a popular and accessible cold-climate holiday destination – particularly if you love cruising. Its stunning landscapes, vast glaciers, rugged mountains and pristine wilderness are sure to please. And most holidays include the chance to take part in dogsledding.

Peter Lynch, Editor-in-chief and publisher 12

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2/ EUROPE’S CHRISTMAS MARKETS A river cruising favourite, these festive events are renowned for their enchanting atmosphere.

You’ll find them in Munich, Vienna and Strasbourg. The stalls are filled with intricate handmade gifts and seasonal treats such as spiced gingerbread and mulled wine.

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3/ ANTARCTICA

The White Continent is 14 million square kilometres of ice – the coldest and driest destination on Earth. It’s a pristine wilderness of ice, towering glaciers and wildlife, including penguins and seals. Expeditions to Antarctica offer a once-ina-lifetime opportunity to explore a place almost untouched.

4/ NORTHERN LIGHTS

The aurora borealis is a natural wonder that draws visitors to cold-climate destinations such as Norway, Sweden and Iceland. The spectacular light displays in the polar skies create a magical and otherworldly experience.

Green, purple and pink light effects are produced as our planet’s magnetic field interacts with charged particles from the sun.

5/ LAPLAND

This northernmost region of Finland is famous for being the home of Santa Claus and offers a host of activities, from husky sledding and reindeer safaris to snowmobiling.

Lapland’s pristine wilderness, cosy log cabins and the potential to see the Northern Lights make it a magical destination for families.

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Venice, Italy - Photo by Steve McCurry

OVER 900 DESTINATIONS TO EXPLORE. Contact your travel advisor, call 1300 306 872 or visit silversea.com/curious

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TO THE CURIOUS

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Upfront | Inspiration for today’s sophisticated traveller |

page

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Celebrity

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Travel Trends

Giving back is the new black

We’re entering a new era of regenerative travel, where visiting a destination has a positive impact – for locals, the environment and the traveller, writes Teresa Ooi.

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I

t’s no longer cool enough to be a tourist heading to trendy hot spot destinations such as Rome, Venice and Capri. Today, you need to be a conscious traveller – someone who is keen to give back and leave an attraction better than when you arrived.

We are talking about regenerative travel, which has come into sharp focus this year now that hordes of travellers are once again descending on cities and beaches around the world.

While many of us take pride in wanting to travel sustainably, the growing trend is to ensure today’s tourist experience yields a positive impact – it’s about giving back to the planet and making it a better place.

River-cruise passengers are paying to clean Amsterdam’s canals of plastic bottles as a shore excursion. During a twohour boat ride through Amsterdam’s canals, the company Plastic Whale hands out fishing nets to participants so they can fish trash and plastic bottles out of the water. Since 2011, almost 150,000 plastic bottles have been cleaned from Amsterdam’s canals.

Plastic Whale recently started working with Sweepsmart, a sustainable waste-management enterprise based in Bangalore, which collects and recycles plastic waste to create local jobs with decent pay and work conditions, and reduce the amount of landfill.

In New Zealand, Princess Cruises has opened a market with the help of Indigenous people, paying for the stalls and training the younger generations to show off their cultural heritage to visiting cruise ship passengers. It creates employment and helps young people maintain their cultural roots, while giving tourists a touch point with local people.

In Myanmar, you can spend a morning at an almsgiving ceremony in the town of Myin Mu where you will donate food to a procession of monks from the local monastery; the shore excursion is offered on Belmond’s Road to Mandalay cruise itinerary.

When New Zealand launched its 100% Pure New Zealand marketing campaign 24 years ago, many tourist bodies across the globe thought it was

Conscious travel

Clockwise, from main: Energypositive Six Senses Svart; eco-tourism in Mossman Gorge; honouring the NZ Tiaki promise.

pure genius. So successful has the campaign been that two decades down the road it has led to concerns of over-tourism and the strain has started to show. Between 2016 and 2019, Aotearoa-New Zealand’s population of five million hosted 11 million visitors a year.

Tourism New Zealand has become acutely aware that growing numbers of locals were increasingly displeased with over-tourism and that some visitors were not treating the country and its fragile attractions with respect. The tourism body has now spearheaded another initiative to ask all foreign visitors to make the Tiaki promise: “While travelling in New Zealand, I will care for land, sea and nature, treading lightly and leaving no trace; travel safely, showing care and consideration for all; respect culture, travelling with an open heart and mind.”

New Zealand has made the conscious decision to empower travellers to do this and this is how we should always travel. To help cover some of the cost of managing its vast national parks, New Zealand introduced Cruise&Travel

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an international visitor levy of NZ$35 in 2019. To decarbonise travel in the Aotearoa region, electric vehicles including electric campervans have been introduced.

Travellers have also been told to keep parks and camping grounds litter-free.

S

o what can we learn from New Zealand’s regenerative travel initiatives? In Australia, the World Heritage-listed Daintree Rainforest is one of the longest continuously occupied regions on Earth. As interest in Indigenous-led tourism from both domestic and international visitors rose by 40 per cent in Australia between 2013 and 2019, this momentum helped many Indigenous people regain their ancestral lands, a process which included the handing back of the Daintree to its traditional custodians, the Eastern Kuku Yalanji people, who now manage the national park with the Queensland State Government.

The Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre, an eco-tourism hub, now has a more than 70 per cent Indigenous workforce.

Before the centre opened, tourists would tear through the area, crashing their motorbikes and disturbing the peace with loud parties. Now walking the land with traditional custodians is not only infinitely more respectful, but also opens travellers’ eyes to local wildlife and ancient landmarks they would never have seen otherwise.

In Norway, an insight into hotels of the future is Six Senses Svart, which produces more energy than it uses. Norwegian architecture studio Snohetta led the design with its supercool, sustainably managed project of a 94-room, ring-shaped hotel on the Helgeland coastline. It is the first energypositive hotel to be built – it harvests more solar energy than it needs, making it entirely off-grid and self-sustaining with its own waste- and water-management, recycling and renewable infrastructure.

As world travellers, we make a huge impact on the destinations we choose to explore. So what can we do to contribute to regenerative travel when we next pack our bags and travel on our dream holiday?

We can always ask our travel agent whether the hotel and region contribute to the local community and fuel regeneration. For instance, when visiting the Maasai Mara in Kenya, at luxury lodge Spirit of the Masai Mara guests are encouraged to plant trees after their stay to help the community preserve the land and wildlife while encouraging the natural resources to thrive.

We travel because we love it and enjoy the destinations as we explore, learn about the cultures and experience different natural wonders. Let’s make sure that as we continue to travel, we are travelling in a way that allows the destinations to regenerate and thrive. CT 17

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Upfront

/ Above and beyond

S

eabourn has announced its 2025-2026 expedition itineraries aboard the expedition ships SeabournVenture and Seabourn Pursuit. Between May 2025 and March 2026, Seabourn Venture will operate 21 voyages, ranging from eight to 28 days from the Arctic to Antarctica.

Seabourn Venture will provide in-depth expedition experiences throughout Svalbard, Iceland and Greenland. From August 2025, the ship will set sail again for the legendary Northwest Passage and lastly, will make the trek south to Antarctica where it will spend three months exploring. Beginning in late March 2025, Seabourn Pursuit will embark on 20 voyages, ranging from 10 to 20 days. It will starting in the South Pacific before heading to Australia’s Kimberley region to see the gorges, rivers, waterfalls and wildlife. The ship will then make its way back across the Pacific to Antarctica, South Georgia and the Falkland Islands.

• Two luxury heavyweights, cruise line Ponant and Paspaley Pearls, have teamed up to launch a new super-luxe expedition motor yacht, Paspaley Pearl. The yacht will take 30 guests to the Kimberley in June 2024 and signals a new era of luxury exploration in the Kimberley where guests can experience an in-depth immersion in the pearling industry. The boutique ship will offer year-round itineraries of up to 14 nights through the Kimberley, Indonesia’s Raja Ampat and Spice Islands, and Papua New Guinea.

Ponant will also sail two of its own ships in the Kimberley next season.

PONANT’S A PEARLER

LA DOLCE VITA

• The five- star Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese has revealed an array of Roman-inspired excursions with themes such as arts, culture, culinary and soft adventure. Experiences include: a hat-making class at one of Rome’s oldest hat shops; a visit to 18

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Tenuta di Fiorano, a 19th-century estate, for wine tastings; a sunset helicopter ride over the Tiber River; a vintage Fiat 500 journey to secret sites of Rome. The Campo de’ Fiori & Culinary Masterclass begins with a market visit to gather ingredients to make pasta dishes and desserts.

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Into the wild

• Luxury cruise operator On Board has partnered with Saffire Freycinet in a select series of exclusive expeditions called Coast-to-Coast Luxury. The journeys combine a three-night cruise on the new 24-metre boutique expedition catamaran Odalisque III through the remote southwest corner of Tasmania’s Wilderness World Heritage area with a three-night luxury stay at Saffire Freycinet on the east coast. An exclusive seaplane transfer via 10-seater Cessna Caravan links the cruise in Port Davey with the Freycinet Peninsula, plus returns to Hobart. You’ll embark on daily guided walk, shore excursions and wilderness cruise by tender from the catamaran. Set over six nights, the Coast-to-Coast luxury expedition accommodates just 12 guests and is available for set departure dates in 2024.

Feeling blue?

Amouage Opus XV King Blue eau de parfum, $699.

/ Showtime

A

new line-up of events will be on offer when Celebrity Ascent launches. Some of the new shows include Awaken, a contemporary and technological spectacle taking guests on an eye-opening journey through a showcase of surreal dreams. There is also Residency, a high-energy concert production inspired by iconic Las Vegas residencies and celebrating timeless artists from Elvis to Lady Gaga, Cher, U2 and Bruno Mars, featuring authentic footage paying homage to Las Vegas and the iconic restored signs from the Neon Museum, filmed exclusively for the show. While Bridges is set against the backdrop of some of the world’s most iconic bridges and features an automated bridge on stage as the centrepiece that transports audiences to breathtaking locations.

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Upfront

FOOD FIT FOR A PRINCESS

• When Sun Princess starts sailing in early 2024, she will be home to a range of brandnew restaurants and culinary experiences.

Exclusive to the ship, Umai Teppanyaki features masters of the Japanese cooking style who will put on a show will you drink and dine.

Menu highlights include a wasabi cocktail, black cod in a soy reduction, and filet mignon with champagne cognac flambé. Also on board is The Catch by Rudi, a novel pop-up dinner concept from world-renowned chef Rudi Sodamin. It will specialise in seafood, with dishes such as oysters on the half shell with red-and-pink peppercorn mignonette sauce and panko-coated calamari with lemon aioli.

/ Van Gogh comes to life

T

he grand dame hotel De L’Europe Amsterdam, one of the most luxurious hotels in Europe, has created a VIP partnership with the Van Gogh Museum.

Guests staying at the hotel until January 2024 will have exclusive access to the exhibition via a two-night package. It includes a stay in one of the hotel’s rooms or suites and a scenic boat ride to the museum.

The exhibition features 75 works with pieces

by Van Gogh as well as Seurat, Signac, Bernad and Angrand, many of which will be showcased in Amsterdam for the first time. The package with De L’Europe Amsterdam includes continental breakfast for two at the hotel’s Brasserie Marie.

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The Med to Mumbai

• Viking has released an itinerary that connects the Mediterranean with South Asia over 35 days.

There are just two departures for the new Indian & Europe Grand Passage itinerary, sailing in December 2024 from Barcelona and in January 2025 from Mumbai. The cruise combines Viking’s Iconic Western Mediterranean sailing with its Journey to Antiquities and Passage to India itineraries. From Barcelona, the route explores France’s southern coastline, Italy and Greece. The cruise then pivots to the Middle East with visits to Egypt, Jordan, Saudi Arabia and Oman. Next, guests will traverse the Arabian Sea to Mumbai.

There are overnight stays in five ports, with extra time in Barcelona, Pisa, Athens, Haifa and Mumbai.

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* r S V fl

T h e H E A RT o f the MEDITERR ANE AN E N J O Y, I T ’ S A L L I NCLU DED

PRIVATE VERANDA STATEROOM NORDIC SPA FACILITIES ROMAN FORUM, ROME, ITALY

FRANCE

MONACO

Marseille

Monte Carlo

Barcelona

Madrid

ITALY

Venice

Florence/Pisa (Livorno) Split Adriatic Sea Rome (Civitavecchia) Naples

SPAIN

Stromboli Volcano

Mediterranean Sea

MEDITERR ANE AN ODYSSEY

CROATIA

Dubrovnik

Corfu (Kérkyra) GREECE

Ionian Sea

Strait of Messina

Overnight in Por t

Venice

Dubrovnik Split Adriatic Sea

Kotor

Istanbul

GREECE Aegean Sea

Ionian Katakolon Athens Sea (Piraeus)

Troy (Çanakkale) TURKEY Ephesus (Kuşadasi) Rhodes

– Cruise

Overnight in Por t

Mediterranean Sea

Heraklion Crete

MONACO Monte Carlo

Venice CROATIA Dubrovnik ITALY Šibenik Split MONTENEGRO Adriatic Kotor TURKEY Sea Barcelona Florence/Pisa GREECE Bari (Livorno) Istanbul Aegean SPAIN Corfu Sea Troy Rome Naples Crotone (Kérkyra) (Çanakkale) (Civitavecchia) Athens (Piraeus) Ephesus Messina Mediterranean Ionian (Kuşadasi) Sicily Sea Sea Rhodes Katakolon Heraklion Crete Mediterranean – Cruise Sea

Marseille Montpellier (Sète)

•

Overnight in Por t

WINE & BEER SERVED WITH LUNCH & DINNER 24 HOUR ROOM SERVICE WI-FI & GRATUITIES NEWEST SMALL SHIP FLEET INDUSTRY-LEADING HEALTH & SAFETY PROGRAM

15 DAYS | 5 COUNTRIES | 12 GUIDED TOURS SET SAIL: FEB–JUN, AUG–OCT 2024; APR–AUG 2025 From $13,095PP in Veranda stateroom SAVE up to $1,600 per couple

INCLUDES $2,500 flight credit per couple Quote OC12 when booking

MEDI T ERR A NE A N ’S ICONIC SHORES

Barcelona to Istanbul or vice versa 29 DAYS | 8 COUNTRIES | 23 GUIDED TOURS SET SAIL: FEB–AUG, OCT 2024; MAR–AUG 2025

From $25,395PP in Veranda stateroom SAVE up to $1,600 per couple

INCLUDES $2,500 flight credit per couple Quote OC12 when booking

*Conditions apply. Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability, includes all advertised discounts, and correct at time of printing. A partially refundable deposit is required at the time of booking. Mediterranean Odyssey based on 26 July 2025 departure. Ancient Adriatic Treasures based on 24 July 2025 departure. Mediterranean’s Iconic Shores based on 10 July 2025 departure. Included flight credits are to be used towards flights booked by Viking, are subject to availability and are only valid if booked in conjunction with selected Viking Ocean cruises. All offers only valid on new bookings made between 01 September and 30 November 2023 unless sold out prior. For full terms and conditions including flexible deposit and flight credit offer visit viking.com.

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CHOICE OF 8 DINING OPTIONS

Venice to Istanbul or vice versa

MONTENEGRO

Corfu (Kérkyra)

FRANCE

From $10,495PP in Veranda stateroom

ANCIENT A D R I AT I C T R E A S U R E S

CROATIA

ITALY

•

13 DAYS | 6 COUNTRIES | 10 GUIDED TOURS SET SAIL: APR–OCT 2024; MAR–SEP 2025 INCLUDES $2,500 flight credit per couple Quote OC12 when booking

– Cruise •

Barcelona to Venice or vice versa

SHORE EXCURSIONS

NO KIDS NO CASINOS VOTED WORLD’S BEST 138 747 VIKING.COM OR SEE YOUR LOCAL VIKING AGENT

6/11/2023 12:59 pm

Collaboration

A feast for the senses while at sea Enjoy chic fine dining at Chartreuse and Compass Rose restaurants aboard Seven Seas Grandeur.

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6/11/2023 12:28 pm

REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES

The GRANDE DAME of the seas

Regent Seven Seas Cruises elevates entertainment and epicurean delights on board Seven Seas Grandeur.

T

he future of luxury cruising – including dining and entertainment – has become even more tantalising with the imminent launch of Seven Seas Grandeur from Regent Seven Seas Cruises. Set to debut in November 2023, a voyage aboard this magnificent vessel promises to be a feast for the senses, especially for those who appreciate the finer things in life, especially entertainment and gastronomy.

Regent Seven Seas Cruises has long been known for setting the gold standard for luxury travel on the high seas, and this latest addition to the fleet continues that proud tradition. Behind the culinary transformation is Bernhard Klotz, Regent’s Vice President of Food & Beverage, and his culinary teams. They have meticulously crafted more than 130 new dishes and redefined the recipes of guest favourites across seven dining venues. These spaces have also been reimagined and redesigned to further elevate the guest experience.

“For over 30 years, we have provided our guests with the highest standards in luxury travel, from personalised on-board service to immersive destination experiences, to perfecting epicurean offerings across the world’s most luxurious fleet,” says Andrea DeMarco, President of Regent Seven Seas Cruises.

“As a celebration of Regent’s heritage, Seven Seas Grandeur has been stunningly reimagined for the future, enhancing the eclectic culinary experiences found on board through delightfully refined menus and beautifully designed specialty restaurants.”

Regent has also unveiled A Heritage of Perfection, a set of new, captivating productions to debut in November 2023. The shows pay homage to the rich legacy of Broadway and its profound influence on cruise-ship entertainment. Guests can expect world-class performers, breathtaking choreography and unforgettable moments that will take their breath away.

Under the visionary leadership of Kai Alan Carrier, Director of Artistic Theatrical Entertainment, Regent Seven Seas Cruises has created immersive and engaging theatrical experiences exclusively for Seven Seas Grandeur guests.

“These new entertainment productions aboard Seven Seas Grandeur are a testament to our commitment to providing our guests with unparalleled luxury and unforgettable moments,” says DeMarco.

“Seven Seas Grandeur embodies over 30 years of unrivalled experiences, and so we felt it important that the team to bring the ship’s new production shows to life were steeped in Broadway heritage and talent, whether that be decorated performers, accomplished choreographers or creative minds, to ensure that our guests will be captivated from start to finish.”

For more information, please visit rssc.com, call 1300 455 200 (AU), or 0800 625 692 (NZ), or reach out to a professional travel adviser. CT Cruise&Travel

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The culinary experience

• Compass Rose Regent’s signature restaurant will offer 13 new dinner dishes, allowing guests to customise their main courses with a variety of sides, sauces, pasta and main features. New dishes include a Maine lobster risotto and roasted Black Angus striploin.

• Prime 7 The elegant steakhouse will feature a new lunch menu and an elaborate sharing plate of grilled meats for two at dinner. Additionally, guests can enjoy a new plant-based option of Impossible Salisbury Steak.

• Chartreuse This restaurant has drawn inspiration from the 3-Michelin Star L’Auberge du Vieux Puits in Narbonne, France. Dishes include halibut viennoise and soupe de poissons, reflecting the rich tradition of French cuisine.

• Pacific Rim Offering

pan-Asian delights, this venue introduces two new entrees and four new desserts, including duck confit adobo and a plantbased Pacific Rim poke salad.

• Sette Mari at La Veranda

With a menu inspired by the culinary traditions of Puglia, Italy, indulge in hot appetisers such as sformato di ricotta, cozze alla marinara e peperoncino and zucchine Ripiene.

• The Pool Grill Those looking for a more casual bite can savour a Korean-fried chicken burger with gochujang-black garlic mayo.

• The wine selection

Chartreuse boasts four Gerard Bertrand wines on its complimentary wine list, while an additional five grace the ship’s Connoisseur Wine Menu.

Entertainment debuts New productions on Seven Seas Grandeur:

• Pasión celebrates tango,

a dance originating in Buenos Aires. This production aims to capture the essence of tango by blending it with modern hits and creating dynamic vignettes. The production is infused with authenticity and vitality, with contributions from world-renowned choreographer Francisco Forquera and Broadway costume designer Alejo Vietti, and the expertise of choreographer Britt Stewart.

• Ignite the Night offers a mesmerising fusion of dance, style and design and exudes red-carpet glamour and excitement. It has been choreographed by Britt

Stewart and features costume designs (pictured below left)

by Ryan Park (My Fair Lady and Fiddler on the Roof).

• Marauder’s Ball, directed

by Broadway stalwart John MacInnis, featuring music by Grammy Award-winning Jason Howland and costumes (above) by Ryan Park, offers a swashbuckling adventure with pirate legends and seafaring tales.

• ICONS promises an engaging and contemporary VIP concert experience, delivering well-loved hits that will captivate the audience.

It’s a musical journey that showcases a stunning cast and the music of beloved headliners such as The Pointer Sisters, Hall & Oates, Adele and Celine Dion.

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6/11/2023 12:41 pm

Upfront

HURRY! THE LAST CUNARD HOMEPORTED HOLIDAYS

• Cunard has released its 2025/2026 itineraries for Queen Anne, Queen Mary 2 and Queen Victoria, with 180 cruises to pick from. The three ships will visit 91 destinations and 24 countries. The latest crown jewel, Queen Anne, will be sailing out of Southampton, England on voyages from two to 19 nights. A highlight is the 12-night voyage in June 2025, sailing to the Norwegian fjords.

Queen Mary 2 will continue her iconic Transatlantic crossings over the 2025/26 season, and will also visit the Caribbean. Queen Victoria will be based in the Mediterranean for the 2025 European summer with a highlight two-week cruise out of Rome to Turkey and the Greek Islands in May.

SPA HAVEN • Regent Seven Seas

/ A Disney

adventure in Singapore

D

isney Cruise Line’s new ship has been renamed Disney Adventure. The line’s latest purchase, the partially built Global Dream which Disney snapped up for a bargain €40 million ($67 million), is being fitted out in a German shipyard. From 2025, Disney Adventure will begin a five-year stint of sailings exclusively 24

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out of Singapore. This will also mark the cruise line’s debut in Southeast Asia. Disney said it chose Singapore for its “strategic location, world-class air connectivity and port infrastructure”. The ship, which would have been worth a reported US$1.8 billion ($2.4 billion) if complete, was sold as a hull after the insolvency of Genting Hong Kong. Its capacity will be reduced under Disney from 9000 passengers to 6000. Disney also revealed that it is planning a third season in Australia.

Cruises has unveiled new spa treatments on board the new Seven Seas Grandeur which begins service in November. The Serene Spa & Wellness will offer treatments that draw on the restorative power of its amber and quartz crystal beds to soothe away aches and pains, while a high-tech treatment table suspends the body for the Zero Gravity Wellness Massage. For guests booked into the 413-squaremetre Regent Suite, there’s a private spa alongside the master bathroom, with a personal sauna, steam room and treatment area for their unlimited complimentary treatments.

The exclusive Tahitian Hydration Ritual is a lavish 75-minute body wrap with a warmed monoi oil that infuses frangipani flowers with pure coconut oil.

Cruise &Travel

6/11/2023 10:42 am

* o a T P

Introducing

Sun Princess

®

Friendship

Sun Princess is our largest-ever ship and she will accommodate 4,300 guests and boasts stunning views, innovative entertainment venues, multi-storey dining rooms and next level stateroom accommodations.

Sun Princess will sail an inaugural season of Mediterranean cruises from early 2024 followed by Western and Eastern Caribbean voyages.

SCAN TO VIEW FULL DETAILS OR VISIT princess.com/sunprincess

Cruise 10 nights from $1,419 per person twin share*

BOOK NOW | Visit your travel agent | 1300 385 631 | princess.com * Fares as per person, in AUD, in complete twin accommodation based on the lead interior stateroom category at time of publication, inclusive of all discounts, taxes, fees and port expenses (which are subject to change). Supplements apply for other stateroom categories. Fares based on 10-Day Grand Mediterranean round trip from Rome departing 18/02/24. Higher fares may apply to other departure dates. Princess Cruises has set aside a reasonable number of staterooms which are available at these fares. Once these staterooms are sold, fares may vary. Valid for new bookings and not combinable with any other offer. All offers are subject to availability. Princess Standard fare is the cruise fare only without any inclusions.

To be read in conjunction with the Passage Contract available at princess.com/legal/passage_contract which passengers will be bound by. A credit card surcharge of 1.1% for Visa and Mastercard and 2.75% for AMEX, and a 1.0% surcharge for PayPal will apply to direct bookings made through our website or call centre. No surcharges apply to debit cards. Travel agents may charge additional fees – check with your travel agent. Carnival plc trading as Princess Cruises ABN 23 107 998 443

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6/11/2023 10:33 am

Upfront

‘Make it count’ experiences are behind an increase in ultra-luxury escapes for high net-worth travellers, writes Francesca Syz.

The rise of the six-figure family holiday

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6/11/2023 11:29 am

If

you’ve been watching Succession or The White Lotus, you’ll be fully up-to-speed on how the super-rich love spending quality time on holiday with their families “making memories”. Obviously, other people do too, but for the seriously wealthy, 2023 has become the Year of the Six Figure Family Holiday. (All the prices in this story are in pounds sterling, so just think of the number and more or less double it.)

“There is no question that more people are doing things with their families,” says Jules Maury, head of Scott Dunn Private, the ultra-luxury arm of UK-based luxury travel operator Scott Dunn, which has a “by invitation only” membership.

“We have seen a 40 per cent rise in £100K bookings since last year, a large percentage of which are for family trips. Maybe it’s because pre-Covid they felt they had all the time in the world and now people are more aware of their own mortality, but to see that rise in 12 months is a big deal.”

What the best high-end tour operators do is work on the client relationship, getting to know their interests and then anticipating their needs over multiple bookings. Travellers are a lot more savvy than they were, reading reviews and scrolling Instagram and TikTok, so the pressure to be on top of everything that’s trending, for both travel expert and client, has never been greater.

“I think parents are now doing the ‘making it count’ life experiences with their kids,” says Maury. “They’re going a bit deeper, they want things to feel local and purposeful. We organised a month-long family round-the-world recently, with the youngest child five years old. They did Fiji, LA, New Zealand, Oz – Great Barrier Reef, Ayers Rock – Singapore. They just decided they wanted to do something special on their summer holiday, rather than just go to Europe.”

Luxury boutique operator Black Tomato has seen huge growth in multi-generational travel, which means a higher spend and bookings of £100K+ increasing by 111 per cent between 2021 and 2022, before settling into a 20 per cent increase from last year to this.

“Emerging from the pandemic, there was a real sense of ‘I’ve missed out and want to embrace the world as much as I can’,” says Tom Marchant, the Black Tomato Group’s co-founder.

“This is manifesting as a surge in demand for extraordinary, experiential trips. People have seen a renewed sense of value in spending time with their loved ones and a recognition that travelling with those who matter most is really important. But that’s never going to be cheap.”

In recent months, Black Tomato has set up ultra-personalised family trips to Japan (about £100K for a multigenerational group of seven) learning about sumo, samurai and street food, and another to Mongolia, where the family was accompanied for much of the trip by a survival expert, who taught them how to catch their food, build fires, navigate by the stars and tell the time from the position of the sun.

Chartering a private jet to cut out five internal flights and save a day is another reason things get pricey.

“People are willing to pay whatever it takes for seamless travel. Even if you’re going to somewhere like The Rooster in Antiparos, you’ll probably get a helicopter across from Mykonos rather than sweat the ferries,” says Jules Maury. “Anything that takes the schlep out of it. Especially when travelling with the kids.”

“The most important thing is to be able to move at the right pace without wasting a minute of the trip,” confirms one of Maury’s clients. “As the children get older, family time is so precious that it is worth spending that little bit more just to make sure that you have the once-in-a-lifetime experience coupled with seamless efficiency.”

C

Make it count

XPrivate jets take the schlep out of travel to far-away lands like Mongolia (left) and Colombia.

Cruise&Travel

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hildren are also being given more say in the planning of the family holiday. Teens are more aware of what’s out there than they were. Maury says for a recent booking for a family of seven, the parents asked their kids where they wanted to go and they built an itinerary around that. (“So basically Alaska, a private yacht, Peru, American desert.”)

“My 15-year-old daughter is begging me to take the whole family sailing up the Croatian coast in the superyacht Solandge, like the Roy family in series two of Succession,” one big spender told me. “I feel added pressure because she is already asking whether she can spend most of next summer going to festivals with her friends so I feel there might not be that many family holidays left, or at least not until she leaves uni and realises how expensive these trips are and what a great deal it is having your parents pay.”

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6/11/2023 11:29 am

Upfront

Last hurrah holidays

XTV shows like The White Lotus (right) inspire family trips; wildlife-spotting is still popular.

This is a sentiment echoed by Tom Barber, co-founder of Original Travel – a company whose bread and butter is multidestination, multi-generational trips – which has seen six-figure holidays bounce back post-Covid. While Barber thinks this is partly due to families wanting to make up for lost time, he has also seen an increase in the “Last Hurrah Holiday”: “That big-ticket holiday that will entice their older children – and often partners – to join them.” These types of trips account for over a quarter of Original’s £100K+ bookings.

Parents are also keener than ever to bring grandparents and grandchildren together, hence the continued rise in popularity of the hotel with villa, so families can enjoy the privacy but with all the facilities of a hotel. This also works well for families travelling with children and their children’s partners.

Justin Huxter, co-founder of Cartology Travel, has seen trip spend increase since Covid and says about 20 per cent of his business is over the £100K margin and almost 90 per cent of bookings are for families, usually those with teens or older children who bring their other halves.

A big part of the conversation when planning a trip is how to keep kids off their devices by keeping them engaged, busy and active, and ideally to have them dive right into the culture they’re visiting. Some families take extraordinary holidays regularly so the challenge can be finding things they’ve never done before.

“We had a family who went to Colombia and they were in Cartagena over a public holiday so we encouraged some local families to throw a little street party and get the visiting kids out playing baseball with them,” says Huxter. “We donated some food and drink to help things along. During the trip, the family also helped out at a local special-needs school, tracked pumas on horseback with gauchos and rented a villa on the coast, from which they hiked and sailed.”

So how big an impact has Covid really had on the way very wealthy families travel?

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“Clients want to cram in so much to one trip you have to reign them in ... you don’t need to do an entire continent in 12 days.”

“I think directly after Covid there was a move towards people doing a bit less and staying in places for longer,” says Huxter. “But honestly, we’ve now seen the shift back, where it’s like preCovid, where clients want to cram in so much to one trip you have to reign them in and get them to try to appreciate that you don’t need to do an entire continent in 12 days.”

T

he House of DreamMaker, a US-based boutique travel company run by Gregory Patrick, launched a UK office this January after spending last summer analysing the global market and realising 60 per cent of the luxury travel companies servicing the highest earners are based in the UK but that many have had to scale back their operations. Given the UK’s increased appetite for less homogenised, more experience-focused family trips, they decided it was the moment to step in.

“Parents want to provide experiences that their kids will learn from but also enjoy,” says Patrick. “Gone are the days of tour guides spouting data.”

The company recently arranged a 10-day family trip to Japan that included a professor of Japanese history from Princeton conducting a FaceTime discussion with the kids during the one-hour transfer from Osaka to Kyoto, which engaged them and made the time fly. They also took over a “dive” restaurant so the children could assist with the cooking, were provided with a personal stylist and shopper who took them out to the best boutiques and had a private visit with one of the last surviving Hiroshima survivors. The trip cost about £188,000, excluding some private air travel.

In a climate where people used to go, to say Antarctica and Chile or the Galapagos, now they’re doing all three in the same trip. One can’t help wondering if all this oneupmanship is filtering down to the kids, who go back to school and compare holidays with their friends. You did two weeks at Sandy Lane in Barbados? How dull. We’ve just been to the North and South Poles to see polar bears, whales and wolves. CT Cruise &Travel

6/11/2023 11:30 am

Upfront

Hydropower • As part of its commitment to

net-zero carbon emissions by 2050, MSC has ordered two new hydrogen-powered ships for its luxury cruise line, Explora Journeys. Explora V and VI will be built at the Fincantieri shipyard and will be able to operate on a variety of alternative fuels. The goal is for the ships to use liquid hydrogen with fuel cells when docked in ports, eliminating carbon emissions when the engines are switched off. The company is also investigating future technologies such as advanced waste-management and carbon-capture systems.

The line’s first ship entered service this year, while Explora II is scheduled to start sailing in 2024 and Explora III in 2026. Construction on Explora IV will begin in January 2024.

The eyes have it Loewe Inflated sunglasses, $481.

/ AFLOAT IN THE MALDIVES

M

aldivian resort chain Soneva Secret will open a hotel on the remote Haa Dhaalu Atoll in the Maldives in January 2024. The exquisite resort features 14 beach and overwater villas, including the Crusoe Villa, accessible only by boat, and Castaway Villa, the Maldives’ first floating villa. Each villa comes with a private chef who will craft bespoke menus and unique culinary journeys to be savoured in the privacy and comfort of the villa or enjoyed at one of the island’s picturesque spots. Other dining experiences will include Out of This World – a castaway dining tower, observatory and wine cellar in the lagoon, reachable by zipline.

There’s also The Living Room, the island hub and casual dining and lounge venue, which is home to a library, boutique and Soneva’s renowned ice cream, chocolate, and cheese and charcuterie rooms. Some experiences available include picnics on castaway shores, sunset dolphin cruises and snorkelling tours guided by a marine biologist.

Cruise&Travel

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• French cruise line Ponant has started a Do you trial run of B100 biofuel, produced from want fries recycled cooking oil, on its expedition Le Champlain. The line is the first with that? yacht, French cruise line to test the new type of

biofuel, which was sourced from Altens, a French supplier of alternative non-fossil fuels for the transport sector. “This first marine biofuel test is part of our roadmap, as their carbon footprint is infinitely lower than conventional fuels, with a 90 per cent reduction of CO2 emissions,” says Mathieu Petiteau, Newbuilding and R&D Director at Ponant. “They are produced from used cooking oils, can be incorporated directly into engines and are available now. We want to help demonstrate that it is a credible alternative that can contribute to decarbonising Ponant’s fleet.”

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6/11/2023 11:33 am

Collaboration EMERALD CRUISES

Set sail for

NEW HORIZONS On land and sea

Clockwise, from left: Emerald Sakara; the Seychelles; Kenya; the yacht’s Aqua Pool.

Emerald Cruises launches an inspiring new collection of yachting destinations.

A

ward-winning Emerald Cruises’ stellar 2023 yacht cruising season revealed some newsworthy milestones. Following the 2022 launch of Emerald Cruises’ first ground-breaking luxury yacht, Emerald Azzurra, twin sister Emerald Sakara set sail in August 2023 on its sold-out inaugural voyage.

Both yachts redefine small-ship cruising with unrivalled comfort, world-class amenities and contemporary style.

Late in 2023, for the first time, Emerald Cruises will introduce breathtaking Caribbean & Central America itineraries, plus unveil an exciting new yacht cruise program for 2024 to 2026. Looks like 2024 promises to be another impressive year.

/ Old and new Euro favourites Emerald Cruises’ newly minted 2024-2026 brochure showcases a welcome return of its Mediterranean & Adriatic Sea bestsellers.

Favourites include the 15-day ‘Discover Italy, 30

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Greece and Turkey’, cruising the Aegean Sea, and the 8-day ‘French & Italian Rivieras with Corsica’, from the glamorous Côte d’Azur via Corsica to the Eternal City, Rome.

A highlight of the new additions is ‘Discover the Best of the Croatian Coast’, an epic 15-day round-trip departing from either Venice or Dubrovnik. This extension of the popular shorter Croatian itineraries allows even more time to explore the Adriatic’s wildly beautiful islands and Medieval towns. / Seychelles and safaris An expanded portfolio of new destinations should inspire with the Red Sea & Suez Canal and Seychelles & Indian Ocean cruises commencing in late 2024.

East of mainland Africa, the Seychelles archipelago is a true Indian Ocean paradise, dazzling with natural beauty, white sand beaches, rare wildlife and vibrant cultural

heritage. Emerald Cruises’ fabulous collection of Seychelles itineraries also incorporates the East African coast, including Tanzania and exotic Zanzibar and Kenya’s Mombasa.

For your ultimate adventure, the signature 16-day ‘Safari and the Seychelles’ combines a thrilling six-night safari in Kenya’s renowned game reserves and parks with numerous opportunities to spot Africa’s ‘Big Five’, and an idyllic seven-night cruise in the Seychelles. / Wow-factor yacht cruising Wherever you sail, revel in the Emerald Cruises luxury small-ship experience. Amid sumptuous surrounds, Emerald Azzurra and Emerald Sakara welcome just 100 guests each on board, ensuring personal attention with exceptional staff-to-guest ratios and ample space to unwind.

You’ll relish accessing smaller ports that larger ships can’t reach (including Venice which is exclusive to smaller-sized vessels), taking you closer to the local action. Some days, your captain will drop anchor so you can have a picturesque swim and make full use of the innovative Marina Platform and aquatic toys, including the James Bond-style Seabobs.

Generous inclusions cover all meals, complimentary drinks, onboard and onshore gratuities, transfers, plus unique EmeraldPLUS and EmeraldACTIVE experiences. CT Book your dream voyage now. Prices start from $6645 per person ( for an 8-day luxury Mediterranean cruise). For more details, visit emeraldcruises.com.au or call 1300 286 110.

Cruise &Travel

7/11/2023 12:19 pm

EVMA

CRUISE WITH ONLY

100

GUESTS

NE W LU X U RY YAC H T C R U I S I NG

Amici Lounge

Infinity-style pool

Explore local towns with smaller port access

MEDITERRANEAN • RED SEA & SUEZ CANAL N E W S E YC H E L L E S & E A S T A F R I C A • C A R I B B E A N Emerald Cruises luxury yachts, with only 100 guests, offer an intimate cruising experience with access to ports only small vessels can reach. Enjoy world-class services, included excursions, all meals and complimentary drinks.

8 Day Luxury Mediterranean Yacht Cruises start from only $6,645 per person* Visit emeraldcruises.com.au, call 1300 286 110 or contact your travel advisor *Conditions apply. For FULL conditions refer to emeraldcruises.com.au or brochure. All prices based on per person twin share, cruise only.

Valid on new bookings only. Cruise from $6,645 per person twin share based on E04M 07/06/2025 departure in D Category Stateroom. Prices, Dates, Availability subject to change and correct as of 05/10/23. Emerald Cruises (a division of Scenic Tours Pty Ltd). Booking code: EVMA190

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17/10/202311:15 1:55am pm 6/11/2023

Upfront

MELANESIA CALLING

• Small boutique cruise company Paul Gauguin has announced a series of new itineraries as part of its 2025 Boutique Crossing Collection, cruising between Fiji, Bali, Singapore, Papua New Guinea and Australia.

Three singular voyages of 14, 16 and 20 nights will explore the natural wonders and cultural treasures of Oceania, Indonesia and Melanesia on exotic itineraries featuring maiden calls to Parai Beach and Surabaya in Indonesia. The itineraries on the 330-passenger Paul Gauguin will feature a program of personal enrichment and destination immersion, and visit remote ports Espiritu Santo, Guadalcanal, Komodo Island, Semarang and more.

/ Farmhouse foray The stunning

Como Castello Del Nero has unveiled Podere San Filippo, an eighth-century farmhouse on its 300-hectare estate which has been converted into holiday apartments. There are 12 units ranging from one to three bedrooms with fully equipped kitchens, and they share a private pool.

In the town of Barberino Tavarnelle, between Florence and Siena, the farmhouse is a 25-minute walk across estate grounds to the Como Castello Del Nero. Part of the hotel’s experiences include hot-air balloon rides, truffle hunting and wine-tasting in a historic cellar. The retreat’s restaurants include the Michelinstarred La Torre, as well as cool barbecue pits.

THE PEN’S LONDON OPENING

• One of London’s most prestigious neighbourhoods, Belgravia, has welcomed the long-awaited arrival of The Peninsula brand. Nestled between Hyde Park Corner and Wellington Arch, the newly built hotel has 190 luxurious rooms and suites with panoramic views of the surrounding heritage buildings.

The hotel has secured a Michelinstarred chef, Claude Bosi, to head the food and beverage team.

The Lobby (far right) serves a signature afternoon tea with live music, while rooftop restaurant Brooklands pays homage to British aviation and motorsport, setting the scene for Chef Claude’s modern British dishes.

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Cruise &Travel

7/11/2023 10:41 am

Upfront

SEARCH FOR NEMO ON NEPTUNE

Go deep on the Great Barrier Reef with Scenic Luxury Cruises.

S No need to get wet The Scenic submersible can reach depths of 200 metres.

cenic Eclipse II and its state-of-the-art submersible, Scenic Neptune II, will be offering underwater explorations of the Great Barrier Reef. This will make Scenic the first cruise company to offer a submersible experience in the world’s largest coral reef system.

The submarine fits eight guests, two more than the original Neptune, and a pilot. It can dive up to 200 metres below the water’s surface, with its crystal-clear acrylic sphere allowing unrestricted views of the surrounding ocean.

Scenic Neptune II is equipped with technology that does not harm the marine environment, including using GPS dynamic positioning that removes the need to anchor on seabeds. The submersible is also equipped with an Advance Azipod propulsion system that minimises noise and vibration

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to reduce disturbance of the environment around it, as well as helping to limit fuel consumption.

Scenic Eclipse II will be coming to Australia in mid-2024, with several departure options for those who want a shot at visiting the depths of the famous reef.

There is an 11-day Cairns to Darwin ‘Australia’s Top End’ sailing visiting Cape York and Arnhem Land, with stops at Lizard Island, Sandy Cay, Cobourg Peninsula and more.

This sailing leaves on April 30, 2024.

Scenic Eclipse II is a six-star luxury discovery yacht, carrying 228 guests and featuring a 15-person expedition team. The submersible experience joins the two helicopters that the vessel will have running for excursions in the Kimberley. CT 33

6/11/2023 1:03 pm

Upfront

Rosewood comes to New Zealand

• With the takeover of three high-end resorts across North and South Island, the Rosewood Hotel Group is set to make a big entrance to New Zealand’s luxury getaway market by late 2023. Rosewood Kauri Cliffs, 275 kilometres north of Auckland in Matauri Bay, has an 18-hole golf course, three private beaches and boasts 26 rooms and suites. Rosewood Cape Kidnappers in Hawke’s Bay is an intimate hideaway from which guests can head out on local farm tours and nature walks. On the shores of Lake Wakatipu near Queenstown, the Rosewood Matakauri is a home-like sanctuary to return to after days filled with activity.

Incredible

IMMERSION • Azamara has released four new voyages with an emphasis on increased cultural immersion. These sailings offer “extended destinations days”, allowing passengers 10 or more hours in port and overnight stays. The idea is to allow guests to enjoy destinations at their own pace. The voyages include itineraries in

Spain, Portugal, Singapore, Vietnam and more. The seven-night Asian Holiday Voyage leaves Singapore on December 5, 2023, offering a total of 92 hours in port. There are two overnights in Ho Chi Minh City, as well as a night in Singapore. Sailing in the festive season offers the chance to do your shopping at local markets in Vietnam and attend the Christmas on Great Street celebration in Singapore.

/ In search of Solis

S

Sounds like Pink Apple AirPods Max, $899.

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eabourn is rolling out a new fine dining restaurant on board Seabourn Quest, Encore, Ovation and Sojourn over the coming months. The cuisine at Solis will focus on Mediterranean dishes created by Chef Anton “Tony” Egger, who has worked at various Michelinstarred restaurants, and Senior Corporate Chef Franck Salein. Dishes include piquillos de la mama, Basque piquillo peppers with fresh Murcia goat-milk cheese served on countrybread crostini; branzino, whole sea bass baked in a sea salt and fresh thyme crust served with artichokes and tomatoes; and bistecca alla Fiorentina, Tuscanstyle grilled beef porterhouse steak. The line is also rolling out a refined vintage cocktail menu that includes classics such as Kir royale and negroni.

Cruise &Travel

6/11/2023 1:13 pm

BATTLE YACHTS

OF THE

Two high-end players have made big announcements recently as they compete at the top end, writes Bernadette Chua.

T

he high-end luxury yacht space is now dominated by hotel brands – each launching their own vessel to attract their luxury clientele to the high seas. Aman, Orient Express and RH will be entering the market with their own tricked-out boats and big boy toys.

But the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection, the first to launch its own ship after the pandemic, has announced it plans to build up to 10 new ships. And the group has earmarked a yacht for the Asia-Pacific region. Executive Chairman and CEO Jim Murren told Seatrade Cruise News the Marriott-owned company is looking to deploy its fourth or fifth vessel in the Asia-Pacific region. / Ritz-Carlton’s new era “We already have plans underway for ships four and five, to be built on a different platform, to be disclosed, and beyond that we’re looking into maybe getting into the expedition space and other yacht types, to get our fleet up to eight to 10 yachts within the next several years,” Murren said at the launch of Ilma.

The next ship, Luminara, will be launched in 2025 and the next new builds could arrive in 2027 or 2028. However, the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection group is looking for financing for the next order of vessels.

“The new-platform ships will be very different in feel and design and operation than Ilma and Luminara,” said Murren.

The ships will be no more than 450 berths.

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/ Funnel vision Four Seasons has revealed details about its yacht which will launch in 2025, with its second vessel expected in November 2026. But the talk of the town is the ship’s pièce de résistance – a four-level 9500-square-foot (882 sqm) penthouse which is located in the funnel. New artist’s impressions of the design show off the glitzy architecture of the Funnel Suite, which also boasts a 5000-square-foot (418 sqm) terrace, a private spa, as well as a 280-degree view afforded by one giant slab of curved glass. Yes, that piece of glass cost an eyewatering US$4.5 million – much more than the price of an average Australian home .

Sports enthusiasts both on land and on the sea have access to exclusive sailing, snorkelling and windsurfing activities. What’s even more bougie, is the rentable custom-crafted sea limousines that are designed for transfers and coastal grand touring. The yacht will also have a canoe-aft deck with a 20-metre pool. It has been designed to be quickly emptied for weddings and events.

If this sounds like your cup of tea, or Cristal, line up, line up.

For the inaugural sailing, Four Seasons will invite guests who have stayed or travelled with the brand regularly. CT

The mind boggles

From top: The Four Seasons yacht’s penthouse; the aft marina design for the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection.

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Collaboration

Summer lovin’ OCEANIA CRUISES

SEVEN NEW EXOTIC SAILINGS TO FRENCH POLYNESIA AND HAWAII ARE ON OFFER. Island flavours

A delicious meal in the making at Nuku Hiva, the Marquesas Islands; Tahitian national dish poisson cru.

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he world’s leading culinary- and destinationfocused cruise line has revealed its 2025 Summer Collection of voyages, featuring an extensive and diverse line-up of more than 100 itineraries, plus nearly 50 Grand Voyages, to alluring corners of the world.

Oceania Cruises will also offer seven new exotic summer sailings to French Polynesia and Hawaii on board the 670-guest, boutique hotel-style Regatta in 2025.

New cruises will visit the South Pacific from August to October, the best months of the year when the sunshine is abundant, the breeze pleasant, the temperatures balmy and the humidity low.

Itineraries span the gorgeous blue lagoon of Bora Bora, the black sand beaches of Tahiti, the colourful coral reefs of Raiatea, the soaring mountains of Nuku Hiva and more.

Four of the sailings link French Polynesia with the craters, canyons and waterfalls of the Hawaiian archipelago.

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“At Oceania Cruises, we offer a captivating array of sailings in French Polynesia and Hawaii, charting lesser-known coastlines and taking travellers to boutique ports and off-the-beatentrack islands thanks to our small, luxurious ships,” says Oceania Cruises President Frank A Del Rio. Sailing from Tahiti or Honolulu, the seven new voyages range from 10 to 18 days, allowing plenty of time for exploration, adventure and relaxation.

While Tahiti may feel worlds away, the gateway of Papeete is easily accessible with flights from Sydney and Auckland. In addition to the seven new sailings aboard Regatta in 2025, there are dozens of other destination-rich itineraries to choose from in the South Pacific, as well as Australia and New Zealand, in 2024 and 2025. / Destination highlights Bora Bora, in French Polynesia, is dominated by two spectacular peaks – Mount Otemanu and Mount Pahia. They create a dramatic backdrop for Bora Bora’s shimmering turquoise lagoon. Under the sea, the reef is a haven for a rainbow of exotic fish and turtles.

In Papeete, Tahiti, enjoy a wide variety of restaurants and shopping. Look out for exquisite hand-carved wooden figurines and bowls as well as colourful patchwork quilts called tifaifai. Or learn about the iridescence and lustre of pearls at the Robert Wan Pearl Museum.

Hilo, Hawaii, on the east coast of the Big Island, is renowned for its lush greenery. Thrill-seekers can take a helicopter ride to Kilauea Volcano or zip-line through a river gorge. Or take it easy in Richardson Ocean Park or on a stroll through the farmers’ markets.

Kailua-Kona on Hawaii offers swimming and snorkelling, or play golf at one of three oceanside courses. Indulge in a tasting at the Mountain Thunder Coffee Plantation or experience the disappearing act of Magic Sands Beach. / Eat your way around the Pacific One of the best ways to delve into the local island culture is through food, and both French Polynesia and Hawaii serve up some mouth-watering specialties, exotic dishes and delicious delicacies.

“Whether you’re exploring Bora Bora and Nuku Hiva or Nawiliwili and Hilo, the flavours of these islands are meant to be savoured and enjoyed just as much as the spectacular scenery,” says Del Rio. Among the must-try fish dishes is poisson cru, French Polynesia’s version of ceviche, the raw marinated fish dish or a Hawaiian version called poke. Or try the mahi mahi burger at Bloody Mary’s in Bora Bora.

Kalua pork, a traditional method of slowroasting pork in an imu, or underground pit, is a Hawaiian favourite you’ll find across the islands.

Other staples include breadfruit, or uru in Tahitian, a versatile starch that is quintessentially French Polynesian. CT Cruise&Travel

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The Summer Collection launch

• Oceania Cruises’ 2025 Summer Collection

of voyages, features an extensive and diverse line-up of more than 100 itineraries, plus nearly 50 Grand Voyages, to alluring corners of the world.

Choose from a selection of curated Europe voyages, classic Canada and New England cruises, exciting adventures in Alaska or South Pacific sailings all aboard Oceania Cruises’ fleet of eight small, luxurious ships.

Included are more than 70 distinct voyages across the Mediterranean and Northern Europe with Marina splitting her time between the Mediterranean, the western wine countries, and the northern regions of Iceland, Greenland and the Canadian Maritimes; Vista sails the capitals of Scandinavia, the Norwegian Fjords and the British Isles; while Allura, Oceania Cruises’ newest ship, sails its maiden season in the Med. Frank A Del Rio, President of Oceania Cruises, says 2025 is set to be its biggest year yet.

“With our 2025 Summer Collection, we look forward to continuing to show why Oceania

Cruises is acclaimed for its destination-rich itineraries by offering new ports of call and expanded service into highly sought-after regions,” he says.

Other 2025 Summer Collection highlights include Riviera sailing in Alaska for the first time, while Allura, Vista, Marina, Sirena and Nautica explore Europe on more than 70 diverse itinerary options.

Overnight stays are scheduled in ports ranging from Seville to Montreal, and Bora Bora to Papeete. There are also 10 new ports of call including: Scrabster, Scotland; Sibenik, Croatia; Sundsvall, Sweden; and Vaasa, Finland.

The itineraries are now open for booking at oceaniacruises.com.

2025 will be big

Clockwise, from below: Riviera departing Valletta, Malta; a Penthouse Suite; The Grand Dining Room; spinach and ricotta tortellini dish at Toscana; the Atrium.

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Subscriptions

GIVE THE GIFT OF A SUBSCRIPTION Sail away for the holidays Happy Cruisemas to all our readers cruisepassenger.com.au 38

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Oceans 40 New ships for 2024| 42 Ponant in the Kimberley | 54 On the Resilient Lady

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Resilient Lady

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Trends

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK The cruise industry continues to grow with a throng of new ships launching across the contemporary, premium and luxury spaces, writes Bernadette Chua.

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ext year is shaping up to be another big year in the cruising space, with some big innovations. The luxury sector will see a similar boom in vessels after the success of their big sister ships this year. New adventure ships are launching too, with luxury lines making their mark in the space by offering expedition itineraries but with white-gloved service.

Take a look at what’s new for 2024.

/ Sun Princess For the first of its Sphere-class ships, Princess Cruises has taken a new approach to the look and feel of Sun Princess. Slated for a February 2024 launch, the 4300-passenger ship will have a host of activities aimed at the family market – a bold move for the premium line which has never had a waterslide on any of its vessels.

The ship is debuting the first “Rollglider” at sea – an electric rollercoaster zip line that can reach speeds of 17 kilometres per hour.

There will also be a ropes course and an obstacle climbing course that spans two decks, with a slide back to the bottom.

For those looking for something more refined, Sun Princess will have two new cabin classes – the Signature Collection and the Reserve Collection of premium location mini-suites and cabana staterooms. Both categories come with perks. The latter has access to the Reserve Collection restaurant as well as a private sundeck with a whirlpool. Guests in Signature Collection will have their own restaurant, sun deck and lounge. There will also be new food and beverage offerings and the Lotus Spa will span two floors. / Queen Anne It’s been 12 years since the traditional British line, Cunard, released a ship. The highly anticipated arrival of Queen Anne in May 2024 will bring in a new era for the line. The ship will be able to host 3000 passengers in accommodations ranging from a Britannia inside cabin to the ultimate in luxury, the Grand Suite. This private

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residence comes with a separate room which can be turned into a guest bedroom or dining room, a lounge room, a private balcony and a dedicated butler.

Two-Michelin-starred British chef Michel Roux has developed menus that are specially curated for Cunard’s Queen’s Grill as well as the Gold Lion Pub. The ship will also have a new outdoor restaurant, Tramonto. Queen Anne will also have three new specialty restaurants: Aji Wa, a Japanese restaurant with sushi and an omakase tasting menu; Sir Samuels, a high-end steakhouse; and Aranya, a new Indian restaurant. / Icon of the Seas Breaking record sales for her inaugural sailing on 27 January 2024 out of Miami, Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas is touted to be an architectural marvel. The 7600-passenger ship has gone a step above the Oasis-class ships.

Icon of the Seas has activities designed for adrenalin junkies.

On Thrill Island, there will be a waterpark full of slides as well as an over-the-water obstacle course. For those looking to relax, Chill Island has four of the ship’s seven pools including Royal Caribbean’s first swim-up bar, Swim & Tonic.

There will be more than 20 dining options from quick and fast bites, such as those at the Izumi Hibachi & Sushi, to highend meals. The glitzy and glamorous Empire Supper Club, which is designed to look like a smoky New York jazz club, is where guests are served an eight-course meal with traditional American fare of oysters Rockefeller and modern renditions of Wagyu New York strip topped with shaved fresh truffle. / Disney Treasure A sister ship to Disney Wish, the new Disney Treasure will put Aladdin as the focus, as well as new venues on the ship. There will be a new interactive dining experience called Plaza de Coco, which is based on the movie Coco. There will also be adults-only lounges that are based on Disney theme-park attractions.

There’s an AquaMouse slide which has a new Mickey and Minnie-themed adventure story, as well as two cafes named after Moana and Mulan. Disney Treasure will sail for the first time on December 21, 2024.

and storage space for additional technical equipment. But don’t expect the Viking formula to have changed. The aesthetics, great restaurant and the thermal spa will not change – and they will all be included in the price. / Explora II MSC Group’s high-end luxury line, Explora Journeys, had a successful launch in 2023. And Explora II will debut in August 2024. The 922-passenger ship will have the same features as Explora I – lovely pools and an array of dining options that also include an unlimited raw bar in the ship’s Emporium Marketplace. In port, shore excursions (or experiences, as Explora Journeys calls them) have unique offerings. For example, in Riga, Latvia, guests can fly a jet warbird. A pilot will push the jet to its limits and will guide and instruct you with a flying lesson.

We can’t wait

Clockwise, from main: Disney Treasure; Queen Anne; Viking Vela; Princess’s Rollglider ride; Silver Ray; and Explora II.

/ Silver Ray The 728-passenger Silver Ray debuts in July 2024 and is much like Silversea’s first Nova-class ship, Silver Nova, which launched in August 2023. The Otium spa and Otium suites will be at the back of the ship, and in true luxury Silversea style, all suites come with butlers.

Most of Silversea’s favourite restaurants return but the line has decided to relocate the S.A.L.T. Lab where guests can try the 14-course tasting menu. But the favourite part of Silver Nova, the revamped pool deck which puts the sea views front and central, also features on Silver Ray. CT

“Icon of the Seas is touted to be an architectural marvel. The 7600-passenger ship has gone a step above.”

/ Viking Vela The new Viking Vela will be slightly different from her sister ships. She’ll be larger and can accommodate 998 passengers in 17 additional cabins. All the rooms will have ocean-ship views Cruise&Travel

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Voyage

Star du rock The Kimberley is as much of an international icon as the Opera House – yet a French line has a particular hold on this uniquely Australian place.

Peter Lynch reports.

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he Zodiac looked in trouble. Its crew were waving, and its motor was out of the water close to the famed King George Falls – 80 metres of sheer sandstone cliff and turbulent tides. As we pulled alongside, there was a loaded “pop”. And before we knew it, we were toasting the famed location with Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve.

Welcome to luxury adventure, Ponant style. Where the action is always accompanied by French bonne vie. We’re aboard Le Soléal on the last cruise of an enormously successful Kimberley season. Ponant has firmly planted the French flag on this iconic Australian expedition location, which is two-thirds the size of France and has a population of just 40,000.

The line has been bringing its traditional mix of expedition, adventure, gourmet food and exquisitely designed small ships to this remote and rugged part of our planet for years. The Ponant team are celebrating their 35th year of adventure cruising, so they really know their stuff.

As we roar along in our Zodiacs – a Frenchman, a Singaporean, two Americans and four Australians – it’s somehow more fun to see the place through the eyes of so many nations. And rather Cruise&Travel

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L’aventure c’est l’aventure

Getting up close to the Kimberley’s gorge cliffs; out and about on one of Le Soléal’s 11 Zodiacs.

humbling to realise a place in our own backyard has such a huge international reputation.

It’s richly deserved. These soaring rocks were here before life on Earth began, and it’s home to some extraordinary wildlife: egrets and eagles, brown booby birds, dugongs and turtles, snakes and lizards.

And, of course, the king of this particular jungle: the salty croc. Sometimes grumpy, but more often amiable as they move through the mangroves beneath skyscraper rock formations looking for a quick feed. We spot several young specimens and witness a short but spirited territorial fight.

Our young guides call out on the radio: “HB spotted near the mangroves at 11 o’clock.” HB? Ok, it’s cruel but they explain they don’t want to get guests hopes up as the crocodiles often slink beneath the surface if too many boats arrive. HB stands for handbag. But regulars get names like Snappy and Nibbles.

If our Zodiac is a United Nations, our guides are positively intergalactic: French, English, New Zealander and Chinese, led

by Chilean expedition operations manager Jorge Villamarin.

A firm favourite on our cruise is Murray Kelman – “I’m as tall as the Murray River is long” – a 19-year-old Australian with a 43

6/11/2023 10:57 am

Voyage

PONANT LE SOLÉAL IN THE KIMBERLEY

“It is home to the oldest continuous culture on Earth, the world’s largest living reptile, the only two ‘horizontal falls’ on the planet...”

penchant for bat research. The guides’ passion for the flora and fauna is as infectious as the pandemic, and soon we are all scouting the skyline for birds and the undergrowth for crocs.

It’s breeding season for green turtles and we witness just how tough courtship is for these seagoing reptiles. After arduous lovemaking, they must haul their heavy bodies up the sand, dig a nest and lay upwards of 100 eggs.

Ponant’s director of expeditions and destination development, Mick Fogg, refers to this region as the Antarctica of the tropics. “It is home to the oldest continuous culture on Earth, the world’s largest living reptile, the only two ‘horizontal falls’ on the planet, the world’s largest inshore reef and the largest population of migrating humpback whales on the planet,” he says.

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o, what’s life like on board Le Soléal as we journey from Broome to Darwin? Well, it’s as distinctly French as a well-made croissant. The tricolour flies from her stern, announcements are made in French and English (in that order), and our food has that wonderfully Gallic gourmet flavour.

There are many French couples among our 100 passengers, and it’s fun to see their reactions to our country. Their admiration for Australia is a reminder of why we’re called the Lucky Country – though they grumble amiably that the cheeseboard is sad because Australian Customs refuses to allow the real “fromage” onto the ship.

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The Big Five

Like Africa, the Kimberley has its top experiences. And on our 10-day Broome to Darwin voyage, we experienced them all.

1. The Lacepedes

The islands have amazing birdlife, but even the birds were eclipsed by the amorous antics of the green turtles.

2. Horizontal Falls

Described by Sir David Attenborough as “one of the greatest natural wonders of the world”, this stunning natural phenomenon is best seen by Zodiac (though there were two helicopters above us). The rush of water is fabulous.

3. The Hunter River

It’s Crocodile Dundee country as we move past the amazing billion-year-old rocks to view crocodiles in the mangroves. We witnessed a croc fight and five sightings.

4. Helicopter ride to Mitchell Falls

This extra activity cost US$295 (about $465) but was worth every cent: we were taken to the falls, guided to the best views, swam in a watering hole and our pilot provided commentary for our 20-minute ride.

5. King George River and Twin Falls

The highest in Western Australia and the archetypal picture experience in season, when the falls are in full flood. Even in the dry, this majestic monument to nature is a sight to behold.

Le Soléal is 11 years old. My partner sailed on one of her first voyages, and she declares the ship is in mint condition. The design is a beauty to behold: small ship, but big on comfort. Captain Antoine Paquet tells us the vessel is updated annually – and it shows.

Our suite on Deck 6 is, as the saying goes, small but perfectly formed.

Two suitcases filled with clothes for smart-casual days and gala evenings vanish, the contents swallowed up by cleverly designed and rather swish drawers and cupboards.

Deck 6 turns out to be the perfect place. Turn left for the pool deck and grill restaurant, where Chef Nico produces a magically different dish every lunchtime: roasted whole barramundi one day, French crepes the next. In the evenings, there is another specialty dish – roast suckling pig, duck breast, turkey – and a buffet. We dined under the stars and were quickly adopted by the wait staff, mostly from Bali.

Turn right and you are in the panoramic lounge and terrace at the front of the ship where you can enjoy an evening cocktail or a glass of the house champagne. There is also a small multilingual library, games area and desktop computers.

With only 107 guests on board, we are blessed with 145 staff. Nothing is too much trouble, and we are impressed by the genuine, personal service.

Scenes from the Kimberley

Clockwise, from left: A rock-hard landing; a wonderland of emerald and azure; a “HB”; ancient rock art; back on board the Ponant ship.

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Voyage

“Chef Nico produces a magically different dish every lunchtime: roasted whole barramundi one day, French crepes the next.”

PONANT LE SOLÉAL IN THE KIMBERLEY

In the frame

Clockwise, from above: Another photo op; Ponant’s Chef Nico; and Captain Paquet.

We want to lunch on Deck 7, where there is a cool breeze. It is really the sundowners bar, yet every day, a single table was dutifully set up for us. We dine with a French and Sri Lankan couple and ask for lamb biryani in honour of our Sri Lankan guest. The chef forages among the Indonesian crew’s spice stash and cooks it just for us, proving yet again what a truly wonderful experience small ship luxury cruising can be.

The main restaurant on Deck 2 is more formal – but still fun. Waterline tables give the experience a more nautical flavour. Deck 3 contains the main lounge, used for everything from getting aboard Zodiacs from the marina to disco dancing at night. There is a theatre on Deck 4 – where lectures and briefings take place. Two excellent duos perform at the lounges and a troupe of dancers in the theatre. There is an excellent spa and small gym on Deck 5.

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onant is fully vested in this region and much more than a visitor. Indeed, it is launching a historic charting of the waters of the Kimberley next season. Despite rocks dating back 1.9 billion years and a rich heritage of famous sailors, it has never been mapped for mariners.

The region’s famous cliffs can create hidden obstacles and depths can range from 10 to 40 metres. Its tidal runs are notoriously treacherous. We were on the bridge as Captain Paquet and his team sat in total silence hunched over their instruments. They had to ensure the channel through the Razor Rock Narrows was totally adhered to.

Rocks on either side of the bridge appeared close. The

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captain explained that this passage could be a navigational nightmare, with whirlpools and currents everywhere. Yet no government body has produced charts that allow the many international vessels to know what dangers lurk beneath the waters. Captain Paquet told Cruise & Travel the problem was each time a new operator arrived in the region they had to create their own routes.

Ponant has now opened new legs for its ships and is already using the historic data recorded by its ships to help steer a clear path through Kimberley waters.

Ponant is also participating in a unique training scheme for young Indigenous guides that will see them take Australian and international visitors around this very special place. It’s headed in this region by Sarina Bratton, well known for starting her own expedition line and an Australian industry leader.

Ponant is putting two of its ships into the Kimberley next year: Le Jacques-Cartier and Le Lapérouse – they have limited capacities of about 90 staterooms and suites each.

It’s going to be an interesting season in 2024, with three new lines joining those already taking guests to see the Kimberley’s stunning sights.

For a limited time, guests can take advantage of the allinclusive, flight-and-transfers expedition packages available on all 2024 Kimberley itineraries, with included return economy flights available from major Australian capital cities, as well as Auckland, Christchurch and Wellington. Combined with seamless return airport transfers in Darwin and Broome, the package guarantees a smooth fly-and-cruise experience for Ponant guests. Ponant also includes business-class upgrades for guests who choose to book in selected suite categories.

See au.ponant.com for more details. CT Cruise &Travel

6/11/2023 10:55 am

ETRO swim shorts, $524.

Olympus S binoculars, $199.

EVRY-Day UPF 50+ hat, $59.

Australian Adventure

Trunk Show Cotopaxi Teca Women’s windbreaker, $145.

Mountain Warehouse Ocean men’s watershoes, $29.99.

Leki Makalu Trekking Pole, $289.95.

AJE Gabrielle Midnight linen-blend dress, $595.

Tag Heuer Formula 1 watch, $3200.

Comme Des Garçons X Lacoste shirt, $1280.

Mont Lifestyle women’s shirt, $149.

Patagonia Multi Trails women’s shorts, $76.

Columbia Newton Ridge hiking boots, $149.

XFrescobol Carioca Affonso linen trousers, $396.

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Voyage

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Q QUEST FOR PERFECTION

Combine the historic highlights of Greece and Turkey with a line that specialises in immersive “Azamazing” shore excursions and you should have a magic mix.

Peter Lynch is suitably “Azamazed”.

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Magical Mediterranean

The interior dome of the Church of Panagia Platsani Akathistos Hymn; a Titanic moment in Santorini.

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e are walking the historic ruins of Akrotiri when our guide points to a wall with a small cubicle at the top. It’s not so much the ancient brickwork we are asked to marvel at – it’s a cylindrical pipe. “It’s one of the first toilets on the second floor of a building; it might even be the first,” she says, beaming with pride.

Four thousand years ago, Greek civilisation already had the ability to put in an ensuite. It meant that flushing water could be piped up a flight of stairs, and sewage sent back down into drains. It’s an amazing feat for such an ancient civilisation, and well worthy of our astonished gaze.

The Akrotiri archaeological dig is one of the world’s wonders, revealing paved streets and homes of remarkable sophistication. Sadly, the brilliance of Greek plumbing couldn’t save the citizens from the volcanic eruption of Thera in the 16th century BC. Not for the first time on this journey through Turkey and Greece, we are stunned by the rich history of the Aegean.

We are cruising on Azamara Quest, one of four ships in an independent fleet owned by small ship line Azamara. It’s a brilliantly concocted tour of contrasts: ancient ruins and historic monuments combined with the slick, fashionistas’ haven of two of the most Instagrammed destinations on the planet, Santorini and Mykonos.

Indeed, Akrotiri is on the island of Santorini – so you can hop from Ancient Greece to one of the most famous shots in travel: the girl in the flying dress. There is even a photographic studio that will rent you the dress and take the shot on the roof of one of the famous whitewashed houses with iconic sea-blue domes.

Azamara was once part of Royal Caribbean. But private-equity group Sycamore Partners bought it just before the pandemic. Many people are waiting to see what the new owners have planned for their multi-million-dollar investment.

The signs are good – one of the first things Sycamore did was to buy Pacific Princess from Princess Cruises so it could join the line’s other three R-class ships – nicely sized and carrying about 710 passengers, but compact enough to sneak in and out of small ports.

Azamara specialises in what marketers like to call “destination immersion” – staying longer and later at destinations, introducing 49

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Voyage

AZAMARA QUEST IN THE AEGEAN

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Azamazing Evenings

Clockwise from top: an exclusive classical concert in Ephesus; Executive editor Teresa Ooi on her way to the concert; sundowner cocktails.

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locals, and giving guests special events called “Azamazing evenings”.

The line has a staunch following in the US and Europe, and a growing band of fans in Australia. Azamara Journey and Azamara Onward will be sailing in Australia and New Zealand from December.

The vessels, with a ratio of 1.7 staff to every 2 guests, have an intimate club-like ambience. The line was once aptly called Azamara Club Cruises. We met several guests who had a long history with Azamara. One British couple were on their fifth cruise on Azamara Quest, and knew every captain. We could see why that club moniker suited.

Azamara Quest has 352 staterooms, 46 suites, 201 veranda staterooms, 79 oceanview staterooms and 26 interior cabins.

On board during our journey were 570 passengers, including 70 Australians.

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ur itinerary from Istanbul, Turkey to Athens in Greece takes in iconic and historic sites like Gallipoli and Ephesus.

Instanbul’s Grand Bazaar, with its spice shops and “genuine fake” stores, was a delight, with stallholders genuinely fun to bargain with. The Hagia Sophia was stunning and while you can debate how much is true or false in the story of the Trojan Horse that felled the city of Troy, a replica of the horse stands in Canakkale, Turkey. We had to make do with the Hollywood version built for the famous Brad Pitt movie, as the “original” was undergoing renovations.

Our “Azamazing” evening really did live up to its name – an exclusive classical concert by the Aegean Chamber Orchestra in the Odeon Theatre, built in the 2nd century AD. All just for us.

There were drinks and canapes as we arrived, before we sat on the very steps where the city council met within site of the two-storey facade of the Library of Celsus.

It’s exclusive evenings such as this that are the future of European travel. Creating your own event means guests can taste the culture and avoid the queues and crowds that now accompany anything open to the general public.

While leaving the ancient venue, with its rocky stairs and rubble-strewn corridors, was certainly a challenge for those with mobility issues, the candle-lit concert was something special.

So what’s life like on board? The ship was smart and well-kept for a vessel of 23 years. Our suite was right-sized for storage, with a good-sized balcony. The pool has two Jacuzzis.

Inclusions are five dining options, including alcoholic beverages, tips and gratuities, exclusive cultural events, and – a boon for today’s traveller as we are all spending longer on the road – unlimited self-service laundry.

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An evening with an icon N apoleon once famously said, “If the Earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capital.”

It’s a city bursting with history and romance: edgy and mysterious, breathtakingly beautiful yet full of fun.

There are the architectural marvels of the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Basilica Cistern (who knew water engineering could be fascinating?).

Then there is the sheer joy of haggling over a “genuine fake” in one of the world’s biggest bazaars, the uplifting aromas of the Spice Bazaar, and the confronting full body scrub at the Kilic Ali Pasa Hamami (women in the morning, men in the afternoon).

Our cruise with Azamara began in this city famous for being a melting pot of Asian and European cultures. We took Azamara’s Panoramic Istanbul and Grand Bazaar five-hour tour of the city, which allowed us to soak up the main sites in a whirl of colour and crazy traffic.

But one highlight wasn’t on the schedule – and it had a unique link to Sydney, with a coals to Newcastle twist.

Efendy restaurant in Istanbul was recommended by a Sydney foodie who had tried the Balmain version.

The original Sydney restaurant was started by chef Somer Sivrioglu but the building housing Efendy was sold, and Somer returned to Istanbul and opened a new version with business partner Berk Cemail. They have become cult figures on the Turkish food scene.

Somer is even a judge in the country’s own version of MasterChef Türkiye.

Today, they have a restaurant in Barangaroo called Anason, and still plan to reopen Efendy. A larger-than-life figure, Somer loves Turkish food.

Efendy’s website states: “We welcome our guests sincerely, as if they had come to visit our home and invited them to the table. We do not try to force sales by praising our products. We present the dishes and wines we recommend to our guests with their stories, culture and history.”

And that’s exactly what happened when we arrived. There were 10 at our table, and when we arrived after a 20-minute cab ride, the manager came out to greet us – and ensure the driver was “on the meter”.

The restaurant is fresh and distinctly modern, with an open-plan kitchen. The menu is a fascinating mix of Turkish with a Somer twist.

We loved the meze, particularly the prawns cooked in the same nest-like pastry that is used in sweet baclava. And the mains kept coming, from lamb backstrap to duck pastilla, wild seabass with lentil tabbouleh, lamb shoulder in sour cabbage salad and onion kebabs...

And Somer and Berk paid particular attention to our table, vowing to meet up with us in Sydney for a repeat in the summer. We can’t wait. efendyistanbul.com; Levent, Nisetiye Cd 13, Beşiktaş/İstanbul

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Fast facts

Launched: 2000.

Refurbished: 2021, when new luxury spa suites were added.

Decks: 11.

Specialty restaurants: Two (at extra

AZAMARA QUEST IN THE AEGEAN

The two specialty restaurants – Aqualina and Prime C on Deck 10 – serve delicious combinations of Italian and New York steakhouse with a French Chef’s Table that offers a delightful degustation.

One nice touch was an exclusive arrangement with a company called What Goes Around Comes Around – an official LVMH company that offers pre-loved and fully reconditioned designer bags and accessories. Very ecologically sound.

Our 11-night route took in some of the most heavily traffic ports in the Mediterranean, and Captain Johannes Tysse played the game of cat and mouse with the big ships well.

The 20-year veteran told us he patiently checks each port’s manifest to ensure his passengers don’t have to face long queues in scorching temperatures.

Tysse made the last-minute decision to swap Patmos and Santorini to avoid five megaliners and crowds of up to 9000 passengers queueing for the funicular to the capital, Fira. He even switched the line’s iconic White Night party.

“I’ve heard of people fainting after standing for two hours in 30-plus degrees for the cable car,” he told us.

Azamara allows him to make last-minute changes. Big ship captains cannot make such speedy corrections because they need to inform port authorities well in advance, so it’s a strong argument for small-ship cruising if you have to visit the Med at the height of the season. In the end, Captain Tysse’s local knowledge and agility paid off.

Even though there were two other ships in town – Norwegian Gem and Marella Explorer, together with some 4500 passengers – we were still able to see the sights of one of the best islands in the Aegean without queues.

We found Azamara Quest was a relaxing way to see this beautiful part of Europe – with 20 pages of shore excursion on offer, from a six-hour trip to the battlefields of Gallipoli to lunch at a Turkish home. CT 52

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Onboard experiences

The grand staircase of the Azamara Quest; the White Party is a staple of Azamara’s itineraries.

charge), Italian Aqualina and Prime C, an American steak house.

Main restaurant: Destinations.

Casual dining: Windows Café.

Amenities: Spa, pool, large gym, library, games area and ping pong.

Entertainment: Bars with pianists, singers and a cabaret lounge with shows nightly as well as late-night DJs Itineraries: This season, Azamara Journey will sail in Australia and New Zealand, and Azamara Onward will be in the region on her world tour.

See Azamara.com for details.

Verdict

High: You can’t beat the history on

this itinerary, with dizzying insights into so many cultures.

Low: We haven’t seen a shower curtain in a bathroom for a while…

Who’s it for: adventurous couples who love getting on shore, meeting locals and learning about the culture of different countries.

Deals: Complimentary stateroom upgrades and 15 per cent off suites on select sailings departing between January 3 and November 9, 2024.

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Acne Studios Musubi leather bag, $1850.

Harago cotton shorts, $518.

Adidas Samba trainers, $180.

The Aegean

Lee Mathews Meadow linen-blend dress, $799.

Trunk Show

Studio De Musique silk shirt, $1605.

Saint Laurent Rive Gauche twill cross-body bag, $2190.

Valentino Garavani Leisure Flows suede espadrilles, $1116.

Thom Browne cotton shorts $616.

Vilebrequin Chelly Raitea linen-blend shirt, $305.

Helen Kaminski Bianca Visor, $225.

Gianvito Rossi Versilia 60 suede sandals, $764.

Monos Classic medium check-in suitcase, $435.

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Tom Ford Brady sunglasses, $609.

Saloni Bianca silk-crepe dress, $1054.

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6/11/2023 1:34 pm

Voyage

A different angle Swinging in the Athletic Club; entertainer “The Diva” (right).

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IN THE

RED

Jane Archer steps on board the latest ship from Sir Richard Branson – and the first red lady to sail Down Under.

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M

VIRGIN VOYAGES’ RESILIENT LADY

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ate has put out four bottles of grappa (Croatian fire water to you and me) and asked which we’d like to try. Cherry and carob sound, well, just no, and I’m put off the rosemary when he tells us it’s great for bringing down a temperature if you put it in your socks. So walnut it is. One, two, three and down it goes. Sipping is not an option with this stuff.

Such is the prelude to our cooking class in the Croatian city of Split with Mate and co-chef Marin, who have taken us first on a foraging trip to the local market and are about to help us make some local dishes for lunch.

Some volunteer to fillet the fish, others are put on veg duty or set to kneading the dough for bread. Me? I’m cooking the sausages – rather too energetically apparently.

“Be gentle,” Mate says, showing me how to turn them slowly before sloshing half a bottle of local wine into the pan and leaving it to sizzle (end result: delicious!).

We’re in town on Resilient Lady – a new ship from the Virgin Voyages stable that has been doing the rounds of the Greek Islands and Croatia from Piraeus, the port for Athens, since launching in August. In October, her Lady Ship headed Down Under for the line’s first foray into Australia and New Zealand (and incidentally is already confirmed to be coming back for the 2024/25 season).

Boy, are you all in for a treat.

This is cruising like you have never seen. No under-18s are allowed, which means the entertainment is loud and saucy, and the playlist straight out of a Bali nightclub.

Put it another way, Resilient Lady is already rocking, and we haven’t left port yet.

That has attracted the 20- and 30-somethings, but I’ve met plenty my age (let’s just say a couple of decades on) who are loving the fun, lively and super-casual holiday, where no one blinks an eye at shorts at dinner. “We love that there are no kids,” Neil tells me. He and his wife are among many first-time cruisers I meet – exactly the people Virgin Voyages wants to attract. Clearly the being-different formula is working.

And this ship really is different. You can get inked in a tattoo parlour, see a drag queen strut her stuff in the nightclub and the cabins look to have been outfitted by Sweden’s favourite furniture company. Fancy a party chez vous? Tell your cabin steward and lo, the bed folds away into a sofa to make room for your buddies.

In a smart move, Virgin Voyages has plastered a big A and Z on either side of the

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accommodation decks on the ship. Simply match the letter to the one at the end of your cabin number and hey presto, you can forget trying to learn port or starboard – something that catches out even the saltiest of sea dogs. A wristband made from plastic from the ocean acts as your credit card and ID for getting on and off (if you don’t want to wear it, it sits neatly in a pocket).

And then there is the Virgin vernacular, which takes a bit of getting used to.

P

assengers are Sailors (we are greeted by a hearty ‘ahoy’ by Harry, our effervescent room steward, as we board in Piraeus); those with deep pockets stay in Rockstar Quarters and have Agents – VV speak for butlers – to arrange their dining, spa time and, yes, more parties. They also have exclusive access to Richard’s Rooftop, a sunny spot where free fizz is served from 5pm to 6pm, and their rooms have record players with real vinyl to spin. There is some choice on music, an agent tells me, but it helps if you like the Sex Pistols.

I’m one down from a Rockstar, in a terrace cabin – there are also rooms with portholes and window-less insides – with a red hammock on the balcony. Perfect for snoozing off those late nights and hangovers. Alcohol does cost extra unless you are in Rockstar Quarters, but soft drinks and water are included, as is dining (with one exception, of which more later), tips and WiFi.

My faves

Dining: Pink Agave, but the made-to-order pizzas were good too (and now they know how to make one without cheese!).

Sun spot: The Dock.

Watering hole: On The Rocks.

Entertainment: Miss Behave.

Colour me red

Clockwise, from left: Resilient Lady flies the Virgin banner; the spacious cabin; deck runs; shake the app for a champagne delivery.

We dine in Mexican Pink Agave the first night and it steals my heart – the rib-eye steak is amazing – and next evening head to The Wake, a surfand-turf restaurant where sailors make an entrance on a carefully positioned staircase (they haven’t thrown out all the cruise favourites!) and the best seats in the house do indeed have a view of the wake.

Instead of a main dining room and self-service, sailors need to book the restaurants that take their fancy (be warned: they fill fast). Extra Virgin is the place for pasta; The Galley is a food hall where you can feast on all-day breakfasts, tuck into tacos or noodles and have naughty but nice pastries; Gunbae is a Korean BBQ where food is cooked at the table.

Razzle Dazzle, decked out to mimic the jumble of horizontal, vertical and angled stripes painted on ships’ hulls in World War One to confuse the enemy, is heavy on the veg and serves a mean plant-based burger at lunchtime. Test Kitchen is a Chef’s Table without a chef. The restaurant is a glittering fiesta of silver and mirrors, the food experimental and the service spot on.

Choose your cruise

Whether you’re after a quick getaway or a leisurely fortnight afloat, Resilient Lady is there for you.

• There are three-, four- or five-night cruises to Tasmania (Burnie and/or Hobart) from Sydney or Melbourne, while New Zealand is calling on various sailings from 10-12 nights that mix up Melbourne, Sydney, Auckland, Christchurch, Dunedin, Wellington and Hobart.

• Feeling festive? How about spending Christmas Day in Hobart on a six-day cruise from Melbourne or welcoming the New Year at sea on a 14-night voyage from Melbourne to Auckland.

• Prices start from AU$1450 for a two-night cruise to Burnie round-trip from Melbourne departing December 21, 2023 based on two sharing a sea view cabin with porthole.

Contact: 1800 491 708; virginvoyages.com

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VIRGIN VOYAGES’ RESILIENT LADY

“At one point in the evening, I was asked my guilty pleasure and then tied up ... As I said, things on Virgin Voyages are a bit different.”

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Overall the food was good, but there are a few things to be aware of. The chefs put cheese in everything (on steaks, potatoes and in ragu sauce) so if you don’t do dairy, check with the server before ordering. Also, in Gunbae, vegetarians can’t sit with meat eaters as food is cooked in one pan. Unless couples find fellow veggies to buddy up with, they’ll eat alone, which makes the pre-eats drinking games rather dull.

There are pastries throughout the day in the Ground coffee shop (the food is free, the coffee costs extra) and light bites in The Dock, a sun trap at the back of ship that’s always packed. Be there from 4.30pm to 6.30pm for Opa Hour, when Greek favourites come out. The lamb sausage skewers are not to be missed.

After all that eating, fellow sailors head to the gyms and fitness classes (all free) and do laps on the runway at the top of the ship. Me? I’m dragging the hubbie to the spa’s thermal suite, where we sweat it out in sauna and steam rooms and slather ourselves in mud. Go on a port day as it’s cheaper (US$39 per person vs US$59) and chances are you’ll have the place to yourselves.

It’s hard to move without falling over a bar on this ship. Sip is for Champagne lovers (or shake the app and a bottle of fizz will be delivered wherever you are on board). On The Rocks, under the stairs in the Roundabout (the atrium on other ships), has terrific live bands but be quick to get a good seat.

Entertainment is eclectic, although they do love their acrobatics and heavy bass music. There’s plenty of both in Persephone, a show that goes on around you – the Red Room, aka theatre, can be reconfigured into various layouts, including one where the audience stands in the action – and on Scarlet Night (remember to pack something red-ish). I prefer Miss Behave, an off-the-wall interactive show that is un-Miss-able (it helps if you have a loud voice and can down beer fast but that’s all I’m saying) and Another Rose, a dinner show in the glitzy Manor nightclub with, you guessed it, lots of acrobatics. At one point in the evening, I was asked my guilty pleasure and then tied up. Why? I have no idea. As I said, things on Virgin Voyages are a bit different. CT

Adults-only please

From top: A seafood feast at the Pink Agave restaurant; champagne in the hot tub; all the glitz and glam of being a Happenings hosts.

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6/11/2023 12:49 pm

Róhe cottonblend twill shirt, $618.

Alaïa La Bombe suede sandals, $1570.

Saint Laurent YSL leather bracelet, $430.

Virgin-Worthy

Trunk Show Homme Plissé Issey Miyake shorts, $413.

Norma Kamali Pickleball Diana dress, $245.

Frame silksatin skirt, $632.

Zimmermann Matchmaker jacket, $1250.

Frank ceramic water bottle, $59.95.

Dior DiorBobby B1U sunglasses, $650.

Zimmermann Matchmaker skirt, $650.

Alexander McQueen dress, $3340.

The Row Sam canvas trainers, $1187.

Chanel J12 White Watch, $POA. Loewe T-shirt, $1105.

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Aje Arista linen-blend dress, $595.

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Voyage

Charlie Wexham is already a veteran Cunarder, having taken her first cruise when she was under two years old.

Now that she is nine, does the adventure still hold the same allure? By Brian and Charlie Wexham.

Would you like a (virgin) pina colada?

L

ike any good idea, it started with a glass of wine. Sitting on our balcony in Byron Bay, accompanied by the pure vocals of Frank Sinatra belting out “New York, New York” evoked memories of sunny skies and a Cunard cruise we took to the Caribbean from the Big Apple prior to Covid.

“Why not do another cruise?” came the cry, as the rain drizzled outside.

When we took our last Cunard holiday, our daughter Charlotte (Charlie) was just about to turn two years old and was by far the youngest passenger on the Queen Mary 2. As we journeyed from Hong Kong to Singapore, she called any female passenger with grey hair “Nana”.

So as the wine continued to be consumed in generous quantities, the investigation into cruise itineraries, dates and destinations soon began to resemble a crime scene. After a couple of hours debating and rejecting a myriad of options, it was decided the standout was Cunard, Queens Grill in September 2023, eating and drinking our way throughout the Mediterranean.

Up until this point there had been little consideration given to Charlie, our now nine-yearold daughter. That’s OK, she enjoyed Kids Club last time and although she is much older now and with many opinions, we decided she’ll be fine. And she was just that.

We joined the Queen Elizabeth in Barcelona.

We spent several days enjoying the Picasso Museum, flamenco dancers, live music and all that Barcelona offers, including a tour of Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia Cathedral. This incredible piece of architecture, now in its final stages of completion after 150 years, resembles one of those discarded Mateus wine bottles covered in dripping wax you used to find in cheap suburban restaurants. It needs to be seen to be believed.

After 18 months of waiting, it was time to embark Queen Elizabeth, our home for 14 days cruising from Spain to France, Italy and back.

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Family on tour

Clockwise, from above: Brian Wexham and Charlie (above); lobby on Queen Elizabeth; the popular cruise port of Barcelona.

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CUNARD’S QUEEN ELIZABETH

“There is really great food on the ship – the Lido Buffet was a favourite for me as that’s where I met my new friends before heading to the pool.” – Charlie The anticipation from Charlie was like a child going to the circus for the first time. We have always admired the way Cunard does things – the uniforms, the welcome, the attention to detail, such as the complimentary bottles of champagne and spirits languishing in your cabin.

The cabins associated with the Queens Grill booking are generous and easily accommodate a child on the pull-out sofa bed, tended to by staff daily so as not to inhibit our enjoyment of the space. Anyone who has a young daughter would know they are prone to increasing levels of mess – what a joy it was to return after any meal to find neatly stacked items and clean spaces.

The Kids Club and Teen Zone were Charlie’s go-to places.

They operate every day with four or five staff members always on hand and genuinely interested in entertaining the children.

The Kids Club tended to the younger children and was separated from the Teen Zone. The facilities are impressive, consisting of air hockey (Charlie’s favourite), Bling my Ride, a game based on a television program, and various theme nights including Casino Night, Movie Night, Making Mocktails and Carnival Games. In addition, there were 20 PlayStations.

Staff members Anna, Carol and Becky in the Teen Zone were active and caring – all would have qualified for a role on Play School, which was just as well as Charlie’s godfather is Don Spencer of Play School fame in both the UK and Australia. Don was also with us on the cruise with his daughter Danielle. One evening when he dropped off Charlie at Teen Zone, Charlie approached the jukebox and selected “Fireball”, one of Don’s early hits from the 1960s, much to the enjoyment of Carol, who turned out to be a long-standing fan.

The greatest difficulty was often deciding what to do. There was so much to choose from. If you had finished your book, there was an extensive library enabling you to find another good read plus a notable reference section featuring books on the 62

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The Cunard experience

Clockwise, from left: Music in the lounge, the Queens Grill restaurant; a Queens Grill suite and afternoon tea.

various destinations you were likely to visit… deck games are always popular, we played a lot of table tennis; in addition, there was deck tennis, croquet, bowls, and even some golf nets to practice your swing.

For fitness addicts, there was a well-equipped gym – although I’m not sure why you’d need treadmills: we were much happier doing laps around the ship.

Other daytime activities included bridge lessons, watercolour classes and dance lessons. The Daily Program delivered to our cabin every evening provided a potpourri of fun and inclusions changing daily. And if you ever got bored, you could always go shopping in the Royal Arcade on Deck 3, which includes various designer stores, boutiques, an art gallery, and a spot to pick up essentials at the Port Shop.

As you would expect, many guests spend time around the pools. There are two excellent pool facilities on Deck 9 for sunbathing, both have Jacuzzis, bars and casual food offerings.

And for those wanting a more refined experience, the Mareel spa offers a variety of body treatments, manicures, pedicures, massages and facials, plus steam rooms, heated ceramic loungers and a sauna.

On the food front, the Queens Grill is outstanding. It provides a level of quality and service seldom found these days, and for our party was one of the deciding factors for choosing Cunard.

The Queens Grill is exclusively for guests staying in the Queens Grill Suites. The menu embraces some of those traditional British culinary delights such as kippers and poached eggs for breakfast, turbot, or a grilled fillet of Loch Duart salmon with chive-and-butter sauce. Lobster thermidor was always a favourite among our party.

The wine list is also extensive, and our sommelier was well informed to assist with our tastes and his recommendations were always within budget.

There are other stylish and comfortable lounges to eat and drink – we tried them all, depending on our mood.

One aspect we all appreciated was the quality of live music, which could be found all over the Queen Elizabeth. It catered for all tastes, from jazz to pop, orchestral to a DJ and, of course, the mellow Piano Man to accompany those early evening drinks.

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Voyage

The Queen of Cunard

Frequent cruiser Charlie Wexham gives her verdict on the line she loves.

Charlie’s rating: in 2014

In 2014, Charlie, then 18 months, reviewed Queen Mary 2:

• On arrival at our Queen’s Grill Suite – for

some reason adults call these rooms a “sweet” when there aren’t any, and there wasn’t a grill either – I was met by a very tall man from some foreign land called India.

Nicholas and I became firm friends and he soon learnt of my love for bananas and replenished the fruit bowl daily.

There weren’t many of us little people on the ship, so I was somewhat of a minor celebrity. I discovered the joy of riding in lifts and would jump at any chance, pressing all the buttons at once.

I had the most wonderful playground – much better than at home – books, toys, puzzles, music, games, a pool and fun staff just waiting to play. I was thrilled when we received formal invitations to cocktails with the Captain – I too, had my own invitation.

I decided this was the life for me. Forget running away to the circus – when anyone asks me what I want to be when I grow up, I’m going to be saying: “A passenger on an ocean liner!”

Highs: My first taste of ice-cream. Yummy. I had so much rum ’n’ raisin, the man with the scoop would say “The usual, Miss Charlie?” as soon as I appeared.

Low: When Mummy and Daddy said it was time to go home – I want to live in a sweet on a big ship for ever and ever.

vs 2023

Then and now

Charlie enjoying time out on the Cunard deck chairs and meeting the Captain in 2014; Charlie on board in 2023.

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• I really enjoyed the destinations and beaches we visited. I loved the markets in the villages, so much good stuff to choose from. I thought Pompeii was a bit disappointing – it was really busy, and our tour guide referred to us all as her little ducklings, which was kind of creepy and funny at the same time. I loved the food in Italy and France, especially the ice cream and virgin pina coladas!

There is really great food on the ship – the Lido Buffet was a favourite for me as that’s where I met my new friends before heading to the pool. It has ice cream on tap all day. For breakfast and dinner, I joined Mum and Dad along with our friends in the Queens Grill restaurant. The waiters were great fun and had daily jokes to share with me. I enjoyed the smoothies, fresh pastries and berries at breakfast – but best of all, on my birthday, all the waiters joined in singing ‘Happy Birthday’ to me, followed by a super delicious cake. CT Cruise &Travel

6/11/2023 3:03 pm

Begüm Khan Lotus 24kt gold-plated clip earrings, $2269.

Givenchy suit jacket, $4604.

Self-Portrait guipure-lace dress, $1200.

Gucci suede and leather pumps, $1760.

Ocean liner

Trunk Show

Muzungu Sisters Talitha velvet trousers, $575.

Thom Browne merino cardigan, $1309.

Erdem fil coupé dress, $4490.

Saint Laurent skirt, $2295.

Saint Laurent Sac De Jour leather bowling bag, $4860.

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Rustic Knit sweater, $710.

Hermina Athens Hermis onyx and gold-vermeil ring, $2269.

Christian Louboutin Greggy Chick shoes, $1420.

Blazé Milano Tomboy velvet blazer, $3301.

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Reader’s Choice

Readers’ Choice cruisepassenger.com.au

cruıse passenger

READERS’ CHOICE 2023

IN WITH THE NEW

• ALL THE WINNERS

+ LINES COMMENDED •

YOUR VERDICT CT08RC_028_001_RSS_OFC.indd 1

1/11/2023 4:56 pm

Almost 4,000 readers told us about the lines they love.

Read the results at cruisepassenger.com.au/awards or read them in our magazine.

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7/11/2023 11:11 am

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FP Ad - Cruise & Travel Magazine Nov-Dec 2023.indd 1 CT08_068_069_Uniworld_River Opener.indd 68

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Upfront

• Viking has announced plans to expand with 23 new ships to join its fleet of 92 ships. By 2030, the line plans to operate 115 ships. Thirteen new riverships are planned by the end of 2026 – two new ships for Egypt and a second one on the Mekong – along with 10 new ocean ships by 2030. The new ships will join Viking’s current fleet of riverships, European longships, ocean ships and expedition ships, all built in Viking’s elegant, minimalistic and modern style. Michelle Black, Viking’s managing director in Australia and New Zealand, says the expansion to the fleet “will give more choice in departure dates and itineraries [and increase] capacity to take more guests to the places the bigger ships cannot.

The identical ships offer familiarity to our guests with all-veranda staterooms, understated elegance and Scandinavian design.”

A BOLD PLAN

/ Anouvong sets sail

H

eritage Line’s Anouvong has set sail on her maiden voyage on the Upper Mekong in Laos. The ship joins a fleet of seven Heritage Line vessels and features 10 elegant cabins (four staterooms, four executive staterooms and two jacuzzi suites). All ships are decked out with a blend of traditional Laotian handicrafts, textiles and artworks alongside 70

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French-inspired accents. The line’s immersive Upper Mekong sailings explore less-discovered villages, fascinating cultures and breathtaking scenery of Southeast Asia’s longest river. Over three, seven or nine nights, you can experience the diverse sights, sounds, culture and cuisine of the Mekong. On board, enjoy a range of wellness therapies, relax in the glass-walled café, bar and lounge, or partake in deck-top yoga.

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/ Toast with Kir Royale

E

uropean Waterways has launched its latest addition, a boutique eight-passenger converted barge, Kir Royale. Starting life in 1932 as a working vessel, the now-floating luxe hotel will cruise the River Marne and Canal latéral à la Marne on six-night, all-inclusive itineraries.

Guests will enjoy sought-after excursions to some of the region’s legendary champagne houses, including Moët & Chandon, plus onboard meals with wine pairings, served by the vessel’s own master chef.

One shore excursion includes a visit to boutique winery Frerejean Frères and a private lunch in the salon of the family domaine. Kir Royale will cruise Champagne from May through October, and follows the same itinerary as the 12-passenger Panache, which cruises between Château-Thierry and Châlons-en-Champagne between mid-May and June.

Anantara’s teak for two

• Anantara Chiang Mai Resort, Thailand has launched its refurbished antique river barge, the Nam Jai, for cruises along the Ping River. Made from teak, the former rice barge has been restored by hand, seats eight and will set off from the resort’s private pier. The sunrise cruise heads to nearby Wat Ket Karam, where Buddhist, Christian, Muslim, Hindu and Sikh houses of worship sit side by side.

Make merit with the Buddhist monks, then cross the road for snacks of steamed rice dumplings at simple roadside stall Lung Kajohn. What was once the city’s best-kept secret is now in the Michelin guide.

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• APT’s new river cruise ship, Mekong Serenity, has sailed its maiden voyage on the Mekong. The ship embarked on a 15-day “Vietnam & Cambodia Highlights” itinerary from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam to Siem Reap in Cambodia. The itinerary offered a taste of what’s to come in January 2024 with a sunrise experience at Angkor Wat, great food at Vietnam House in Ho Chi Minh City, and a traditional blessing at a Buddhist monastery in Oudong, Cambodia. On board, the custom-built 88-passenger Mekong Serenity offers both the Horizon Bar & Grill and Indochine restaurant, which serves a five-course Vietnamese menu. Guests can relax in the Serenity Spa or enjoy the swimming pool by day and by night head to The Harmony Lounge and Bar.

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A ROYAL FEAST TAUCK

River ship and tour specialist Tauck dines out on six new European cruises, writes Grant Jones.

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he award-winning Tauck travel company has unveiled its 2024 portfolio of European river cruises, adding six new itineraries to its collection for next year, introducing several exclusive onshore dining experiences. That is the highest number of new river cruises the line has ever added to its portfolio in a single year.

“We’re absolutely thrilled to be expanding our river cruise offerings in such an unprecedented way, with exciting new itineraries that will appeal to our loyal past guests and new travellers alike,” says Tauck CEO Dan Mahar.

Several of the trips incorporate pre- or post-cruise hotel stays in newto-Tauck cities including Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany and Montreux and Geneva, Switzerland, says Mahar. “These signature land experiences are included in our cruise prices, they feature exclusive

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“The special access and memorable moments crafted for Tauck guests extend beyond food and wine experiences.”

Magic moments

Tauck riverboat in Budapest (left); Tauck offers guests a guided tour of Nuremberg’s tunnels.

in Dusseldorf, during a brewery tour in Antwerp and with a tasting of the local brandies and apple ciders in Normandy.

All of Tauck’s special dining and tasting experiences are included in the price of the company’s river cruises, as are all shore excursions, all gratuities, all onboard beverages (including all beer, wine and spirits), airport transfers, luggage handling and much more.

The special evening dinners aren’t the only unique food and drink-related experiences Tauck has included in its new cruises. Depending on the itinerary, Tauck guests could also enjoy lunch at the summit of the Zugspitze (Germany’s highest peak at nearly 3000 metres), at historic Weltenberg Abbey near Regensburg or at a private ranch in the Camargue region in Provence.

And, of course, the special access and memorable moments crafted for Tauck guests extend beyond food and wine experiences, and include: an early “preopening” admission to the home, gardens and studio of Impressionist painter Claude Monet in Giverny, France; a guided excursion into the rock-cut tunnels beneath Nuremberg; a stroll across the Peak Walk by Tissot and a high-altitude suspension bridge connecting two Swiss peaks offering stunning views of the Matterhorn, Mont-Blanc and Jungfrau.

Tauck is proud to be a family-owned travel company that has been operating for almost a century. It offers journeys across the seven continents, in more than 100 destinations and to more than 70 countries and offers unique and exclusive access unlike any other.

Experience access to hidden gems and must-see sights at times when the crowds have long gone. Tauck shows you the world differently.

For more information on Tauck’s full portfolio of 2024 river cruises call 1800 962 043, or go to tauck.com.au.

Tauck-guided sightseeing, and they boast stays at wonderful properties such as the Fairmont Montreux Palace, the Riessersee Hotel in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, and the InterContinental Genève in Geneva,” he adds.

Highlights of the new river cruises will include dinners ashore in lavish settings, with venues ranging from an elegant Viennese palace to a Dutch castle on its own private island and an Italian Renaissance-style mansion in a small commune in northern France.

Tasting tours are also on tap in a number of cities and towns, including Frankfurt, Strasbourg and Chalon-SurSaône, France. Tauck guests will also have an opportunity to quench their thirst during wine tastings in Burgundy and the Lavaux region of Switzerland, on a craft beer tour Cruise&Travel

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TAUCK

Memorable dinners ashore / Danube Kingdoms: Bavaria, Austria & Hungary

The highlight of each of Tauck’s new river cruises will be dinner ashore in a lavish setting, with venues including the elegant Palais Pallavicini in Vienna on the Danube Kingdoms tour. Constructed in 1784, the palace has been the home of the Pallavicini family for more than 180 years and has hosted musical luminaries Ludwig van Beethoven and Franz Schubert. It also served as a major filming location for the classic 1934 film The Thin Man. Tauck guests will also enjoy an exclusive evening at Palais Pallavicini that includes a reception, gala dinner and classical music selections by performers in period dress.

Details: Munich to Budapest; 12 days from AU$10,130 per person excluding airfare.

/ Three Rivers: Danube, Main & Rhine

Guests on Tauck’s new Three Rivers: Danube, Main & Rhine cruise will be treated to an evening at 130-year-old Schlosshotel Kronberg. The former residence of German Empress Victoria Friedrich, Schlosshotel Kronberg housed a US Army officers club during the post-World War II occupation of Germany. It was also the temporary home of General Dwight D. Eisenhower for seven years after the war, during which time he designed the onsite 18-hole golf course that is still in use today.

Details: Amsterdam to Regensburg (or vice versa); 10 days from AU$8680 per person excluding airfare.

/ Rhine Connoisseur: Montreux to Brussels

The highlight dinner on this journey includes an exclusive reception at Slot Loevestein. Set in a nature reserve on a private island open only to Tauck guests for the evening, the 14th-century castle has served as a prison, residence and toll station at the strategic confluence of the Maas and Waal rivers. The itinerary begins with a three-night stay at the Fairmont Montreux Palace and explorations of the Lavaux Vineyards, Montreux and Glacier 3000. A subsequent seven-night cruise visits Strasbourg, Rüdesheim, Koblenz and Düsseldorf along the Rhine before travelling on to Gorinchem, Antwerp and Brussels.

Details: Montreux to Brussels (or vice versa); 11 days from AU$9840 per person excluding airfare.

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/ River Seine: Châteaux, Impressionism & Normandy

Tauck guests will enjoy a private evening with a tour, dinner and music at Château du Taillis. Set on a parkland estate in Duclair, France and built in 1530, this Italian Renaissance mansion with baroque interiors is a brilliant architectural showcase. Other highlights of the itinerary include visits to Le Pecq, Auvers-sur-Oise, Les Andelys, Tilly, Mont-Saint-Michel, Étretat, Honfleur, the D-Day Beaches of Normandy, Rouen and Giverny where Tauck guests enjoy exclusive early-entry admission to the home and gardens of Impressionist painter Claude Monet.

Details: Round-trip from Le Pecq, near Paris; 8 days from AU$7230 per person excluding airfare.

/ La Belle Vie: The Rhône, Geneva & The Riviera

Tauck guests will enjoy an exclusive evening at Duché d’Uzès featuring a private tour, dinner and cocktails. The family castle of the Duke of Uzès, the home was once the site of a Roman governor’s residence and the haven of an exiled ninth-century duchess. This 14-day itinerary also includes a nine-night river cruise along the Rhône bookended by two, two-night hotel stays with guided Tauck sightseeing in Cannes and Geneva. Along the way, guests have the opportunity to experience Aix-en-Provence, Arles, La Camargue, Avignon, Uzès, St-Rémy, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Tain l’Hermitage, Mâcon, Cluny, Chalon-sur-Saône, Beaune, Tournus, Cormatin and Lyon.

Details: Cannes to Geneva (or vice versa); 14 days from AU$11,580 per person excluding airfare.

/ Hidden Waterways of Flanders and Holland

A Tauck-exclusive reception and highlight dinner are featured at Slot Loevestein. Set in a nature reserve on a private island open only to Tauck guests for the evening, the 14th-century castle has served as a prison, residence and toll station at the strategic confluence of the Maas and Waal rivers. The itinerary includes ports of call along the scenic Dutch waterways including Brussels, Antwerp, Bruges, Gorinchem, Leiden, Rotterdam and Amsterdam.

Details: Brussels to Amsterdam (or vice versa); 8 days from AU$6800 per person excluding airfare.

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River highlights

Clockwise, from left: Brugge, Belgium; Monet’s Garden; Palais Pallavicini in Vienna; canals of Amsterdam; Château du Taillis, France.

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Voyage

It’s not as well known a destination as the Rhine further north, but the lovely Danube river has a lot to offer. Catherine McGregor takes a Uniworld cruise that includes the chance to see three countries for the price of one.

y “

odel-lay-ee-dee!” As yodels go, it didn’t sound great – but in my defence, it was my firstever attempt. I was in a yodelling workshop, quickly learning that the singing style Heidi uses to call her goats in from the mountains isn’t as easy as it might seem. It’s all in the diaphragm, apparently.

Though a bit embarrassing at the time, the yodel class remains a personal highlight of a recent seven-day journey with Uniworld Boutique River Cruises, aboard the S.S. Beatrice.

The cruise itinerary begins in Nuremberg and ends in Budapest (or vice versa), taking in the musical, cultural and culinary treasures of the central Danube region – from oompah music, sausage and beer to fine wine, gourmet dining and live music by Mozart and Strauss.

Later that evening we piled into a coach for an excursion to a private beer hall, complete with giant pretzels, tankards of foaming lager and a spectacularly talented Bavarian musical group.

Giant alphorns, tinkling cowbells, dirndls and lederhosen – you name the German stereotype, the concert had it. While traditions like the

Blue

Danube

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Go with the flow

S.S. Beatrice on the river; afternoon tea in Wolfgang’s bar and lounge.

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Voyage

UNIWORLD ON THE DANUBE

Verdict

• What to pack For those joining the bike ride, your workout kit or at the very least a pair of shorts and sneakers. And if you’re tossing up whether to bring your tablet or laptop, it might help to know that internet service is both excellent and free – a nice sidebenefit of staying so close to land.

• My favourite meal I’m a sucker for a great buffet, and the S.S. Beatrice’s is one of the best I’ve had. Running the gamut from the virtuous to the indulgent (perfectly roasted rib eye beef with a side of Käsespätzle, the German version of macaroni cheese? Yes please), lunch on board each day was a real highlight of the trip.

• My favourite experience While seeing the great capitals of Austria and Hungary was a thrill, exploring the charming smaller cities of southern Germany turned out to be just as exciting. I’d barely heard of Regensburg before the trip, but after wandering its beautifully preserved medieval streets I fell in love with the place and vowed to return someday soon.

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schuhplattler (the knee-slapping dance) can look a little ridiculous to modern eyes, we left the show with a whole new appreciation for the skills, and the pride, behind this region’s centuries-old folk culture. / What life is like on board the S.S. Beatrice xperiencing authentic Bavarian culture first-hand is a lot of fun, but it’s hardly representative of the full Uniworld experience. Perched at the very top echelon of river cruising, Uniworld ships are widely recognised as among the most luxurious ways to explore Europe’s riverways. The S.S. Beatrice is one of Uniworld’s nine Super Ships, a select fleet within the main brand that offers an even higher level of excellence and luxury. The S.S. Beatrice was awarded the designation five years ago, following an overhaul and refurbishment that added new design elements including a grand central staircase, the signature feature of all Uniworld Super Ships.

A sister brand to the Red Carnation chain of small hotels, Uniworld is known for decorating each of its ships in a unique style. The S.S. Beatrice is no exception, though compared to some of Uniworld’s more flamboyant vessels – all gilt-edged furniture, plush velvet and over-the-top Murano glass – this ship is a study in restrained elegance. Blue and white decor gives it the look of a high-end superyacht, with light wood and large windows adding to the airy, open feel.

Those inviting public spaces certainly come in handy if you’re booked into a classic stateroom. Uniworld ships are fairly small – people refer to them as “floating boutique hotels” for a reason – and so are the staterooms, which on the S.S. Beatrice measure 14 square metres. Some guests I spoke to said their stateroom felt a little cramped, particularly the bathroom. Due to a brief mix-up, I was initially shown to a stateroom, and while it was as beautifully appointed as everything else on the ship, I admit I breathed a sigh of relief when I was moved to a 21-square-metre suite. There are no open-air balconies on any of the ship’s staterooms or suites, but you’ll find French balconies –

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sliding floor-to-ceiling windows with a discreet safety barrier in front – on all but the lowest-tier rooms.

As well as more space, the suites come with a complimentary mini-bar, Nespresso machine, evening snacks, free laundry service, and two charming and helpful in-suite butlers. Being out and about each day, I didn’t have much need for the butler service, but it was clearly a godsend for many, including some limitedmobility guests who stayed on board while their travelling companions set off to explore on their own.

While suites offer an elevated level of comfort, the ship itself has plenty of amenities available to all. Below deck you’ll find a laundry room and a small gym; up on the top deck, pre-breakfast yoga and exercise classes are held each morning. There’s a coffee machine on each floor, an endless supply of candy in the lobby, and pastries and small plates available throughout the day at Schubert’s, one of the ship’s standout spaces. Wrapping around the ship’s bow, the glass-enclosed, 18-seat cafe offers a more intimate atmosphere than the main lounge, along with fabulous 180-degree views of the river.

Beatrice’s Central European journey

Clockwise, from left: On the river; chef-led cooking class at Max’s; hub of the ship, Wolfgang’s lounge; Max’s cooking class; the riverview suite.

/ Taking in the sights, and tastes, along the Danube chubert’s is especially popular in inclement weather, I presume, but since our sailing was blessed with perfect summer temperatures I spent most of my spare time outside. When the ship is sailing there’s no better way to take in the scenery than from a top deck sun lounger, sunglasses on, drink in hand. And the Danube landscape really does deserve your full attention. Some of the loveliest scenery is on the stretch of river between Passau in southern Germany and the small town of Tulln in Austria, and it was tempting to stay on board to experience it by water. Instead, I joined a guided riverside cycle ride, crossing the German-Austrian border on two wheels (with a stop for a beer halfway through). I made the right choice: the easy 28-kilometre ride

S

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Voyage UNIWORLD ON THE DANUBE

SOME OF THE LOVELIEST SCENERY IS ON THE STRETCH OF RIVER BETWEEN PASSAU AND TULLN.

along the famously beautiful Danube cycle trail was one of the most memorable parts of the trip.

Luckily I still had an afternoon’s sailing through the Wachau Valley to look forward to. A Unesco World Heritage landscape, the Wachau Valley’s hillside vineyards, mountaintop fortresses and riverbank villages have remained largely unchanged for hundreds of years. That morning I joined a visit to a museum dedicated to the 3000year history of shipping on the Danube – much more fascinating than it sounds – followed by a tasting of products made from the local Wachauer marille, an apricot variety of such high quality that it is protected as its own brand within the EU. This part of Austria is also known for its grüner veltliner, the country’s most famous grape varietal, and we tried it for ourselves back on the ship. Local wines, all selected by the onboard sommelier, accompany each dinner – generally a la carte, except when evening activities make buffet-style dining preferable. As with other Uniworld ships, the S.S. Beatrice has only one main restaurant, so there’s generally no need to make any bookings – or to pay restaurant bills at the end. This is a true all-inclusive cruise, with the fare covering food, wine (except special bottles), bar service, gratuities and standard excursions.

Dinner is wonderful, but for me it’s at lunchtime that the S.S. Beatrice really shows its culinary chops. The buffet selection is top class, with lots of fresh vegetables and an ever-changing selection of local specialities. In Austria, we tried schupfnudeln sauerkraut, a surprisingly delicious mix of potato noodles with cabbage. In Hungary, there was paprika-spiked pork goulash with apple strudel to follow. Other than ice cream, absolutely everything is made in the ship’s own kitchen – no corners cut here.

I

n just seven days, the S.S. Beatrice’s Danube itinerary takes in three countries (four if you count Slovakia on the other side of the river from Hungary), two great European capitals, and a handful of smaller historic cities including Nuremberg, home to a splendid medieval old town as well as a darkly fascinating Nazi past. In Vienna, we spent the morning on a guided walking tour – Uniworld uses the QuietVox commentary system, keeping you in perfect audio contact even if you fall behind – followed by a full afternoon free to explore one of Europe’s most spectacular capitals. In Budapest, we cruised under the famous bridges and into the centre of the city, then joined a tour that took us via tram and by foot around the main downtown sights, through the grand Central Market Hall, and into a cafe for coffee and yet more strudel.

On our last night, the S.S. Beatrice sailed to an overnight mooring on the outskirts of the central city. As evening fell we sailed past the imposing Buda Castle, the citadel-topped Gellert Hill, and the enormous Hungarian Parliament, its bulk lit up in gold against the darkening night sky. From here, the Danube flows on through Eastern Europe, all the way to the shores of the Black Sea. But for me, it was time to bid farewell to the mighty river, and to the ship that introduced me to this fabulous part of the world. CT

On the S.S. Beatrice

Clockwise, from above: Toasting a day on the river at Wolfgang’s; the onboard boutique; farm-to-table dining in the Austrian-styled cafe, Schubert’s.

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Kika Vargas Daphne cotton shirt, $800.

Carhartt WIP Terrell shorts, $153.

Cutler And Gross 1386 sunglasses, $706.

River Danube

Trunk Show Zimmermann crepe dress, $650.

Acne Studios Morris jacket, $760.

Loewe Bracelet Pouch bag, $2650.

Burberry suede bag, $4491.

Le Monde Béryl flats, $640.

Roa Katharina hiking trainers, $557.

Paul Smith wool suit jacket, $2065.

Three Graces London Nell cotton dress, $1075.

Toteme organic-cotton jeans, $490.

Lee Mathews Penny technical-canvas skirt, $399.

Toteme cottongabardine coat, $1598.

Balenciaga T-shirt, $995.

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Raving about Ravel

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New heights

Riverside Ravel sets a new benchmark; the impressive central staircase.

Riverside Luxury Cruises has entered the cruise sector with one of the most luxurious vessels on Europe’s rivers, the former Crystal Mozart. Louise Goldsbury reports from the Rhône.

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ot many riverboats have a pop-up rooftop bar, but tonight it feels like it should be compulsory. It’s one of those hot summer evenings in southern France, and there are few places I would rather be. Riverside Ravel is docked at Tournon-sur-Rhône, opposite the terraced vineyards of Tain-l’Hermitage, overlooked by a 16th-century castle, with the hazy Alps in the distance.

Sizzling on the top-deck barbecue, dinner is almost ready.

Clutching cold cocktails, passengers are mingling and recalling the week’s activities. There was our wonderful wine-tasting in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, one of the world’s most prestigious wine regions, where we snapped up surprisingly affordable bottles to take home. Then there was kayaking along the Gardon river to a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Pont du Gard, the world’s tallest Roman aqueduct bridge, built around 50AD and still in good nick.

An unexpected highlight was a visit to the Palais Ideal du Facteur Cheval. Only four people chose this option, but we were thrilled to discover such an unusual palace, made entirely from pebbles, slowly constructed by a postman over 33 years. Others loved the pastry-making class in Lyon and the walking tour in Avignon.

My favourite lunch was when our group of six went for a stroll and stumbled upon the perfect French café with delightful staff and tasty traditional cuisine. Another sunny afternoon was spent between the vines and olive trees at Domaine de Panery, enjoying pasta and salads and freeflowing rosé.

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Voyage

Some of the best experiences were on board Riverside Ravel.

Whether it was making new friends in the bar, or sipping a cheeky chardonnay as we transited the locks along the Rhône and Saône rivers, there was often a drink involved. The threecourse dinners in the Waterside restaurant were always a treat, from the fabulous food to the glamorous décor. In quieter moments, it was bliss to lie on my bed and observe the sights: medieval villages, ancient churches, towering bridges and countryside sunsets.

The 110-passenger Ravel is truly one of the most beautiful river vessels in Europe. The main lounge is a stylish space to linger, basking in natural light through its glass ceiling. The Bistro, serving barista-made coffees and tapas-style snacks, has fun touches like a popcorn cart. Located indoors at the back, the pool is perfect for a cooling dip or just relaxing on a sunlounge with a view of the scenery behind the ship’s wake.

The operator, Riverside Luxury Cruises, is a new cruise line that purchased five ships from the now-defunct Crystal River Cruises in 2022. Two vessels have since been chartered to Uniworld Boutique River Cruises, leaving a trio of the Riverside Ravel (based on the Rhône and Saône), Riverside Debussy (on the Rhine) and the larger 152-passenger Riverside Mozart (on the Danube).

The fleet holds a special place in the heart of luxury travellers, as the vessels were custom-built to create the most luxurious “river yachts” in Europe. Riverside Luxury Cruises has sensibly left things untouched.

Doubling down on its investment, the company also recruited former Crystal employees, who are renowned for their professional and personalised service. The rewards are crystalclear on Ravel, with a 2:1 staff-to-guest ratio. From the reception to the restaurant, the crew are friendly and helpful. Everyone also has access to a butler, contactable via WhatsApp or your cabin phone, which he answers immediately. / Hotel-style experience Riverside Luxury Cruises is owned by Seaside Collection, whose portfolio includes resorts in the Maldives, Canary Islands and Germany. Consistent with the company’s experience, Riverside’s cruise style sometimes feels more like a hotel stay than a group tour. There are no scheduled onboard activities, lectures or port talks during happy hour, and the only evening entertainment is a pianist. You can dine at any time during the 84

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set hours, as opposed to one seating time, and most tables are for couples instead of the river-cruising tradition of communal dining with fellow passengers.

The modern décor of the suites is also similar to a five-star hotel. Interestingly, Riverside is the only European river cruise line with king-size beds in every cabin. A bonus upgrade (in most rooms) is the bed faces the floor-to-ceiling window to appreciate the ever-changing view. The most spacious accommodation is the two-bedroom, two-bathroom Owner’s Suite – at 70 square metres, the largest of any riverboat in Europe.

Best experiences

Clockwise from top left: Riverside Ravel only offers luxury suites; Riverside aims to offer the best food and wine on water; the Vintage Room; and Waterside restaurant.

/ Gastronomy goals Riverside has grand ambitions to provide the best food and wine on the water, supported by excellent waiters, bartenders and sommeliers. The ingredients are all there, literally.

Everything is handmade from scratch: from the breakfast jam and croissants to the rich sauces and sweet sorbet. Meals are prepared to order (although the bistro’s tapas-style snacks and the buffet are great for those who prefer a quick self-serve).

The Waterside restaurant menus are gourmet and Frenchflavoured, often using truffles, escargot, caviar and foie gras.

Many dishes are deliciously hearty, such as the beef bourguignon and Ravel’s version of surf ’n’ turf (sous vide short ribs and grilled tiger prawns, with potato gratin, asparagus and chanterelles). Dessert may feature locally-made Valrhona chocolate or regional cheeses.

The wine list is exceptional. At dinner, waiters serve French whites and reds from the regions we are sailing through. The best wine is reserved for the seven-course Vintage Room experience, held in a private dining room for 10 guests (US$295 per person or US$3000 to book the whole room).

Among other indulgences are spa treatments, which are more varied than other river cruise lines. Riverside guests can choose between Swedish, Balinese, Japanese or river stone massages, and four types of facials.

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Book it Fares

• All-inclusive pricing starts at AU$4390pp (twin-share or solo with no single supplement), based on a three-night Lyon Loop in September 2024. Fares include meals, drinks, one shore excursion in each port, Starlink WiFi, room service, gratuities and transfers.

• Less inclusive pricing starts at AU$3480pp, which does not include dinner, drinks or excursions.

Prices subject to change.

Current offers

• 20 per cent off fares for 2024 cruises, valid until December 31, 2023.

•10 per cent off a seven-night (or longer) cruise.

• Solo passengers pay no single supplement.

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Voyage / All-inclusive is optional The offering on land feels different too, as passengers have more freedom to choose between scheduled excursions, custom-designed private tours or no tours at all. If you opt to skip the tours, Riverside has cheaper fares to suit. Fares that do not include alcohol or three meals a day are also available. This unusual pricing model means people can pay an entry-level fare for basic inclusions, and then buy drinks or meals individually. The Bistro offers a €40 dinner or guests can dine ashore if the ship is docked overnight. / Short and long itineraries Another innovation is the duration of cruises. Instead of a standard week-long voyage, shorter cruises (three to five nights) may appeal to first-timers seeking a taste of river cruising or people wanting a short break from travelling around Europe by plane, train or car.

Riverside Ravel starts or ends most of its cruises in Lyon, France’s culinary capital, at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers.

The three-night ‘Lyon Loop’ squeezes in stops in Viviers, Vienne and the twin cities of Tournon and Tain-l’Hermitage on opposite sides of the river. Guests on this short cruise venture through the heart of Provence to discover the medieval cathedral of Viviers, the Roman ruins of Vienne and the hilltop Tournon Castle. A four-night, one-way version between Lyon and Avignon stops at Arles, Viviers and Tain-l’Hermitage.

Round-trip from Avignon, the five-night ‘Gems of Southern France’ cruise spends three days in this historic city to visit the monumental Pope’s Palace, take an e-bike tour, or kayak to the Pont du Gard. Other ports include Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Viviers, Arles and Tarascon. Seven-night itineraries between Lyon and Avignon, via Viviers, Vienne and Arles, include the ‘Bolero South of France’, ‘Romantic Rhône’ and the ‘Stunning Rhône and Saône’, which adds stops in Chalon-sur-Saône, Tournus and Macon. On these longer cruises, Ravel docks overnight in Lyon, Arles and Viviers, allowing time to spend evenings ashore. CT

“PASSENGERS HAVE MORE FREEDOM TO CHOOSE BETWEEN SCHEDULED EXCURSIONS, CUSTOM-DESIGNED PRIVATE TOURS OR NO TOURS AT ALL.”

RIVERSIDE RAVEL IN EUROPE

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Zimmermann straw boater, AU$695.

Commas striped poplin shorts, AU$487.

Jacquemus Bobraffia bucket hat AU$630.

A.P.C. Constantin corduroy pants, AU$440.

River Rhine

Burberry Somerton shirt, AU$1071.

Polo Ralph Lauren jumper, AU$799.

Trunk Show Gucci Danny headband, AU$590.

Brunello Cucinelli holdall AU$6053.

Erdem floral faille midi dress, AU$5750.

Polo Ralph Lauren trousers, AU$737.

Self-Portrait knit cardigan, AU$555.

ALAÏA Papa cross-body bag AU$2980.

Casablanca loafers AU$1300.

Valentino midi-skirt AU$5320.

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Escapes 92 A palatial tour of India | 102 Anantara in Rome | 110 Qatar vs Etihad

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Anantara Rome

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Hotels & Resorts 5 OVER-THE-TOP EXPERIENCES Here are some other amazing tours, activities and experiences plush hotels have on offer.

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The

Lux-perience These days the world’s leading luxury hotels are more than just stunning bolt holes – many offer wild, wonderful and authentic experiences, writes Sue Wallace.

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ell-heeled guests want more than just an opulent six-star stay – they also want stories to talk about back home. Top-end hotels are increasingly meeting this demand with ever-more innovative immersive experiences.

Sustainability and wellness travel remain hot on the trend list. Supporting local communities is strong – an American Express Travel survey showed 86 per cent of Gen-Z and Millennial respondents and 83 per cent of all surveyed respondents want to shop at small businesses when they travel to a new location.

It also reflected that 69 per cent of all respondents would spend more during a vacation if they knew it supported the local community, and 88 per cent of all respondents agreed that dining and shopping at local small businesses brings a more authentic experience.

Michelle Mickan, VP of marketing for Abercrombie & Kent and Crystal APAC, says, “We’ve seen a significant increase in guests seeking special travel experiences from meeting a meerkat family in the Kalahari in Botswana, seeing the Serengeti from the sky in Tanzania, meeting the mountain gorillas in Rwanda and VIP access to the Sphinx in Egypt.”

Other opportunities include cooking like a local in Marrakech, discovering the Louis Vuitton legacy in Paris, learning the sensual flamenco with a top instructor in Seville and spotting a majestic Bengal tiger on a jeep safari in India.

Mickan says guests are looking for more in-depth and immersive personalised experiences when travelling.

“They want a deeper level of enjoyment while travelling, and incredible stories to share when they return home,” she says.

“Hotel experiences are so much more special than something like a coach tour – they add another layer in making a holiday really special, the likes of staying in a palace in India, a luxury wildness camp in Africa or a ryokan in Japan.”

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Fancy reliving the lavish days of Marie Antionette and Louis XIV – even drinking the health elixir she chose daily and dressing up in a replica of the rich silk dresses with ribbons and bows plus an elaborate wig? A stay at the luxury Airelles Le Grand Controle, the only hotel on the grounds of the sumptuous Palace de Versailles outside Paris, is where guests can pretend to be an actor in the historical drama series, Versailles, and immerse themselves in those lavish days. Then top it off with a feast fit for a king, a theatrical affair at the Alain Ducasse Michelin-starred restaurant and a private VIP tour to the Hall of Mirrors and the Petit Trianon, a magnificent mini-palace gifted to Marie Antoinette.

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Passalacqua Lake Como, recently named the top hotel in the inaugural Best Hotel in the World award, is an exquisite 24-suite retreat above the Italian village of Moltrasio. The De Santis family, owners of the iconic Grand Hotel Tremezzo, have restored the 18th-century fairytale villa, where special experiences are offered ranging from exclusive behind-the-scenes tours of the Opera House of Como, meeting the artists while they rehearse. A private tour of the Silk Museum, which showcases the age-old weaving tradition with heritage looms dating back to the 18th century, is followed by exclusive visits to the most secret silk shops.

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The glamorous Kulm Hotel St. Moritz, which is set to unveil 34 stunning newly redesigned guest rooms and suites by star French designer PierreYves Rochon, has some surprises. Want to try something different in this winter wonderland – how about moonlight paragliding with Davide Grosina?

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Savute Elephant Lodge in Chobe National Park, Botswana to see the ancient artwork of the San Bushmen. The works are thought to be more than 1500 years old, and there’s an amazing baobab grove, a cathedral-like cluster of 13 giant trees, that is almost as old as the paintings.

Indulgent experiences Guests can join a paragliding master for a rare opportunity to see the Engadin from above by moonlight and lose themselves among the valley’s canopy of stars.

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Como Cocoa Island in the Maldives, which has 33 overwater villas above a turquoise lagoon, offers snorkelling tours with a marine biologist to see local reefs and swim alongside whale sharks. The Como group has curated many more adventures to add on to your fine luxury stay at any of their hotels. Como Hotels & Resorts’ chief executive, Olivier Jolivet, says they don’t sell rooms, they sell experiences.

The trend for taking home more than just a suntan is set to expand as holidaymakers opt for a suitcase full of special memories. CT

Clockwise, from far left: Como Cocoa Island, the Maldives; baobab trees; Italy’s Passalacqua Lake Como; the Airelles Le Grand Controle hotel’s Versaille experience; Savute Elephant Lodge, Botswana.

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Belmond Hotels offers some amazing destination experiences that give back to the communities, such as the Wild Dog Research camp and the Botswana Predator Conservation Program. There’s also an experience from the

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ROYAL TOUR

Palaces and palatial residences are the hallmark of this trip around India with A&K. Teresa Ooi soaks up the luxury.

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maid Bhawan Palace, the world’s sixth-largest private residence, is home to the Jodhpur royal family. The current Maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singh II, lives here. And he is happy to entertain a certain class of guest.

The debonair Maharaja, schooled at a prestigious preparatory school in Oxfordshire followed by Eton College and Christ Church, Oxford, took the “throne” at the tender age of 22. Today, his role is largely ceremonial. A private audience allows you to delightfully delve into a bygone age of opulence. But a private audience with the dapper, aristocratic

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Maharaja is not for everyone: that’s where Abercrombie & Kent comes in.

Doing India with A&K is to enter another world.

Everyone knows India is a welter of rose petals, marigold garlands and colourful Hindu blessings, but it can also be a crescendo of experiences that can overwhelm the senses and leave visitors bewildered and unable to enjoy the raw beauty of it all.

Travelling with A&K makes sense of this extraordinary, huge, gregarious and utterly fabulous sub-continent. A&K also gives you access to some of the most sumptuous, stunning and super-luxurious

A jewel in the lake The 18th-century Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur.

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Hotels & Resorts Gaj Singh II has entertained world leaders and royalty including King Charles, who often played polo in Jaipur when he was younger.

Three main sections of Umaid Bhawan Palace remain the private living quarters of the Jodhpur royal family, while the rest has been turned into a six-star hotel run by Taj Hotels.

It took 14 years to build Umaid Bhawan Palace from 1929 to 1943. In the magnificent building perched on Chittar Hill and set on 10 hectares of lush gardens with prancing peacocks, the marble interiors are a mix of art deco styles with teak floors from Burma, ornate chandeliers from Belgium and stuffed leopards and tigers, hunted and shot by the Maharaja’s grandfather.

Today, part of the palace has been turned into 70 breathtaking rooms and suites, many bigger than the average inner-city apartment. From a sitting room to a double-basin bathroom with an oversized bath and shower room, you are simply spoilt for space. My room also opened to a generous-sized balcony with views overlooking the city.

Breakfast and dinner are served at Pillars, the colonnaded veranda overlooking the lawns and pool, which specialises in Rajasthan cuisine.

My go-to breakfast choice is crisp dosa pancakes filled with curried spiced potatoes and served with dahl, mint and tomato chutney. Delicious.

Dinner was traditional thali, a complete Indian meal that at Pillars includes small dishes of goat curry, chicken tandoor, lentils, pickles, chutney and dahl served on a large silver platter topped with biryani rice, naan, roti and prata.

Visit: tajhotels.com

ABERCROMBIE & KENT, INDIA

marble palaces, many dating back to the Mughal Empire of the 16th century.

India excels in delivering dazzling grandeur. A&K excels in ensuring you can appreciate it all – and that’s what small-group touring is all about.

We are travelling on one of A&K’s tailored-made small-group tours. The highlight is undoubtedly the hotels. If you think a hotel is somewhere to lay your head after a day of sightseeing, think again.

Every palace has a turbaned guard on duty who is dressed resplendently in military costume. Every palace hotel room is so enormous that it takes your breath away. And everywhere you look there is marble, from intricate filigree carvings to polished walls decked with stuffed tigers, all topped by a cathedral-like gilded dome from which hangs a glittering, ornate chandelier, a grand centrepiece marking the reception room of a palace hotel.

From the youngest and grandest, the art deco Umaid Bhawan Palace in Jodhpur, to the twinkling Taj Lake Palace in the middle of a lake in Udaipur, you are surrounded by splendour. India’s palaces reek of old money, power and days of glory.

Today, you can taste what it’s like to live like a Maharaja or Maharani in the most opulent palacesturned-hotels, and you will never again settle for less.

Abercrombie & Kent knows just that. Its selections of India’s best palaces to stay have become legendary destinations in their own right.

In his navy-and-white kurta top, white cotton pants, black Gucci slip-ons and a white silk cravat, the Maharaja of Jodhpur was charming, talkative and worldly. He also has a penchant for chewing chestnuts and spitting out the kernels into his gold spittoon. He recently returned from attending a close friend’s daughter’s wedding in Cairo.

“So which country, India or Egypt, has the oldest civilisation?” he was asked. “Egypt has better documentation than India,” he politely replied, cleverly side-stepping the issue.

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Surrounded by splendour

Writer Teresa Ooi (above) stayed in the Imperial (above right); Umaid Bhawan Palace (below) and the Oberoi Udaivilas ( far right).

/ Leela Palace, Jaipur After a 10-hour bus ride from Agra to Jaipur through India’s pot-holed roads, our tired spirits got a shot in the arm with the warmest of welcomes when we arrived in Jaipur. We were greeted with exquisite bunches of 24 pink roses, a pink drink of lychee and sparkling wine, Hindu blessings for good health and beaming faces that immediately melt your heart.

Welcome to the Leela Palace in the pink city. Surrounded by the Aravalli mountain range, the Leela is set on three hectares of landscaped gardens with a staff-to-guest ratio of four to one. There is marble everywhere and workers hand-clean the floors. Each room is unique, with a plunge pool or a veranda to soak up the sun. You get your personal butler to show you to your room. Just before sunset, Leela serves alfresco afternoon tea on the lawn, with Indian dance performances, and Indian cuisine offered in popup stalls. The chandeliers, paintings and artwork that adorn the reception and public rooms are strikingly arresting. Service was excellent even though half the palace was booked out for an Indian wedding.

Visit: theleela.com; tajhotels.com

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Hotels & Resorts / The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra The jewel in the crown of the Oberoi brand is the exceptional Oberoi Amarvilas in Agra where every room has an unobstructed view of India’s most famous attraction, the Taj Mahal. On expansive, well-manicured lawns with roaming peacocks, about 600 metres from the Taj, you are immediately transported to another world. It has a palatial, fountain-lined courtyard and an atmosphere of quiet opulence. The lobby is magnificent with an enormous Mughal-style dome where an ornate crystal chandelier hangs from the centre. Below its twinkling lights, a huge display of fresh pink lilies sits on a round table. We are escorted to The Lounge for check-in formalities where we are served sparkling apple juice while we marvel at the mesmerising views of the Taj. On the front lawn is the magnificent Mykonos-blue marble pool with a colonnaded veranda of Mughal archways and steps on three sides leading down to the water. My room on the third floor is decorated with a delicate display of marigolds which says “welcome”. Oberoi has its own toiletries, the deliciously aromatic Forest Essentials.

Visit: oberoihotels.com / Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur Perched on the banks of Lake Pichola in Udaipur, fondly known as the Venice of the East, Oberoi Udaivilas is spread over more than 1200 square metres of lush gardens, with an intricate matrix of interconnecting domes and corridors, many lit by grand chandeliers or candles. Our room has uninterrupted views of the garden pool, best enjoyed by the bay window seat in the bedroom. A side door leads to a terraced lounge where you can read under the bougainvillea filled with crimson-purple blooms. There’s a dressing table next to the generous-sized bath and shower room. Offerings of chocolates at the lobby after dinner are a nice touch.

Visit: oberoihotels.com

Days of glory

/ The Imperial, New Delhi There are four Grand Dames in the world – Raffles Hotel in Singapore, the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok, the Peninsula in Hong Kong and the Imperial in New Delhi.

The latter embodies the best of colonial elegance, and is steeped in history. Built in 1931 by Ranjit Singh, today it remains in family hands, managed by his grandsons. The family-owned art collection, which is meticulously displayed on the walls, is said to be worth more than the hotel itself.

The hotel is surrounded by 13 embassies in the city centre. At the recent G20 meeting, Indonesian President Joko Widodo stayed in the most expensive Royal Imperial Suite. The Imperial has also been the occasional home of Hollywood celebrities Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, British star Kate Winslet and rock star Sting.

The hotel’s 1911 bar, where decor harks back to the colonial era, is a famous watering hole for politicians and embassy staff.

Visit: oberoihotels.com For more information, visit: abercrombiekent.com.au CT

Clockwise, from above: A novel welcome for writer Teresa Ooi; the Oberoi Amarvilas; Umaid Bhawan Palace.

“YOU CAN TASTE WHAT IT’S LIKE TO LIVE LIKE A MAHARAJA OR MAHARANI IN THE MOST OPULENT PALACESTURNED-HOTELS.”

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Bode Flagship crochet-cotton shirt, $892.

Novesta Star Master canvas trainers, $86.

Saint Laurent silk scarf, $600.

Palace-worthy

Missoni Zig Zag knit dress, $1988.

Trunk Show

Alémais Florentina-print silk-crepe de Chine shirt, $395, and trousers, $425.

Loewe Oversized sunglasses, $421.

Dragon Diffusion Triple Jump bag $465.

Globe-Trotter No Time To Die 007 cabin suitcase, $3675.

Gucci GG Marmont bag, $3695.

Nick Fouquet fedora, $875.

Valentino Garavani Rockstud sandals, $1475.

Zimmermann Raie swimsuit, $295.

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Johanna Ortiz Tropical Palm dress, $1045.

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Hotels & Resorts

Kings of the hill

The historic Mykonos windmills set the backdrop.

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PARTY CENTRAL

Welcome to

Mykonos in Greece is the place to see and be seen. And the Kyma Hotel, with its harbour views and private pools, is definitely the best address, writes Teresa Ooi.

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KYMA HOTEL, MYKONOS

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rom the moment you step onto this wind-swept island, with its rugged landscape, white marble buildings and brilliant sunshine, Mykonos brings Mediterranean picture postcards to life. And the Kyma hotel, just a short walk from a town that parties hard into the night, is a fantastic place to start your stay.

Part of the Myconian Collection of 11 great hotels, it’s built for Instagram. And as if to illustrate its made-for-millennials ambience, the waitress at our pool-side dinner ushers in every course with a dramatic “Oh my God!” From pork souvlaki on skewers served on a bed of French fries, fava beans with octopus to a whole sea bream grilled to perfection and delicately deboned at the dining table, we had to admit every dish was indeed an OMG moment.

Perched on a hill, the five-star Kyma hotel is a haven of luxury above Mykonos town, just a 10-minute winding walk down the main road. Almost everywhere you look, there are views to die for: from our intimate suite with its private plunge pool and deck overlooking the Aegean Sea to the restaurant by the main pool, which is the heart of the hotel.

Surrounded by shaded sunbeds and George’s Bar, which turns out to be the hotspot for guests to gather around sipping ice-cold cocktails, chilled ouzo or even a fresh smoothie, at Noa restaurant you can also choose to have breakfast or dinner at tables lining the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the sea and town.

Because of its hilly terrain, there are no lifts in the hotel’s complex. Instead, you navigate steps to your suite. Thank goodness, the hotel’s concierge is manned by cool-looking George Michael lookalikes with buffed bodies and strong muscles to carry our bags.

Our stylish suite has a neat double bed, a rain shower, an open-plan luggage-and-clothes-hanging space and a complimentary small bottle of Greek dessert wine with some Greek Turkish delight. All very yummy and naughty.

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Aegean dream

The Myconian Collection’s Kyma hotel is as immaculate as it is Insta-worthy.

In the morning, you can walk to town and take in the gorgeous sights of Mykonos. And it really does live up to its global reputation as a hangout for the rich and famous. There are narrow cobbled lanes, romantic alleyways, whitewashed houses, chic boutique hotels, 16th-century windmills that double as hotel rooms and a tiny enclave called Little Venice – which hugs the seafront with a plethora of little cafes, restaurants and bars. This lively spot comes to life when the sun sets and it’s time to down a cocktail or two and party late into the night.

We stopped by an ancient Greek basement pastry shop and treated ourselves to a bougasta, a traditional Greek filo pastry stuffed with vanilla cream, baked on the premises by generations of the same family. It was sinful but so yummy. We then popped into a jewellery store – Greeks are very big on gold bangles, necklaces and rings. We gently made our way back to the Kyma hotel for a late breakfast – and what a spread it was. OMG! Replenished and refreshed, we took a golf-buggy tour of the other hotels that form the part of the Myconian Collection. The

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“WE HAD TO ADMIT EVERY DISH WAS INDEED AN OMG MOMENT.” first, the 25-room Kohili, was opened by George Daktylides and his wife, Eleftheria, in 1979 and remains in family hands. Eleftheria used to cook breakfast for the guests and took charge of the housekeeping and laundry. At the same time, she and her husband raised four boys.

Six years later, Kyma and Korali joined the hotel group which was initially called the K-Hotels. In 1986, as the demand for luxury accommodation grew, the family bought a parcel of land on the south coast and built the first luxury hotel: the Myconian Ambassador Hotel Relais & Chateaux. Today, the family has a portfolio of 11 hotels.

Under the Myconian Collection are Kyma, Korali and Naia hotels, each with its own contemporary restaurant, from Naros, the Asian-fusion sushi bar at Naia hotel, to Baos Fine Dining at Korali. The Myconian Collection hotels are run by the four Daktylides brothers.

The centrepiece of the hotel collection is the Satory Thalasso Spa, with six therapeutic saltwater pools serving all three properties, which is equally popular with hotel guests and locals.

Ever since it was “discovered” in the 1960s, the cosmopolitan island of Mykonos has evolved into one of the trendiest and hippest destinations in Europe – patronised by the young and wealthy party-set from everywhere from Denmark to Doha.

Mykonos, as a frequent visitor from London says, has Insta-appeal and is high on the list for the most sought-after spot for a social-media Instagram shot. From underwater bars to the longest, golden beach in Platis Gialos, you will be spoilt for choice on where to pick as the perfect spot.

The party island throbs with energy during the hot summer when temperatures can soar past 36 degrees. By September, things quieten down and life settles back to a more even keel.

But there’s no denying, when it is hot and humid, it is time to party in Mykonos. CT Cruise&Travel

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Hotels & Resorts

A palace on the piazza

XSpectacular view of Rome (right); the Presidential Suite at the Anantara Rome (below); private Vespa tour.

When in ROME… Bernadette Chua soaks up the sight of the magnificent Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome hotel on a whirlwind trip to the Eternal City.

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s I throw open the cathedral windows at sunset, overlooking the dazzling views of the Piazza della Repubblica, I feel like I am in a Fellini film.

Water is spurting from the Fountain of the Naiads as cars and mopeds zip around on a bustling Friday night. There are teenagers sitting on the steps, drinking bottles of beer while people pour out from the metro station.

It’s the perfect Roman summer evening.

This is where the stunning Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome Hotel is located – just a stone’s throw away from Rome’s main Termini rail

station and a 20-minute walk to the Spanish Steps. Its the first Italian property from the luxury Thai group, which is known for its beautiful resorts across Asia. And the group has worked hard to not only make the hotel a sumptuous place to stay but an experience in itself.

The site was originally two porticoed semi-circular private palaces built in 1887 by the famous Italian architect Gaetano Koch. About 20 years ago, the palaces were combined into the Naiadi Palace, a luxury hotel run by the Boscolo group. After changing hands several times, Anantara’s parent, Minor Hotel Group, renovated and relaunched the property in 2021.

Serving as one of the locations in Lady Gaga’s hit movie, House of Gucci (2021), this grand dame hotel has turned into a cool and funky home-awayfrom-home for chic European and American travellers, but also for the Roman glitterati.

It’s the portico and the entrance to the hotel which take your breath away. Gilded with huge bouquets of flowers and hanging wisteria, guests are guided by the staff up the red carpet to the hotel which then opens to a magnificent marbled lobby.

Here on the ground floor, there is a coffee bar for breakfast pastries and espresso nestled in the corner, as well as an opulent round bar area decorated with velvet banquettes and adorned with a huge ancient chandelier.

The original hotel had good bones, built with classic Italian marble and fine woodwork everywhere. Anantara has taken the structure and made the interiors modern and funky.

Downstairs, just off the Lobby Bar, is the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, INEO, which has just 28 seats. The executive chef Heros de Agostinis was born just a few hundred metres away, and he has incorporated memories of his life, including shopping with his grandmother in the Esquilino Market in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II. Today, he visits the same market to source vegetables and spices.

His experience working at Michelin-starred Cruise &Travel

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ANANTARA PALAZZO NAIADI ROME

restaurants, luxury hotels and under the tutelage of big names like Joël Robuchon can be seen in the refinement of his cooking. In the evening, there is a seven-course tasting menu that draws inspiration from the places Agostinis has worked at, both in Italy and overseas. His dish, Between the Amalfi Coast and the Middle East Passing Through Rome, is a charcoal-grilled Amalfi lemon filled with veal sweetbreads, courgettes and black lime sauce. It is a true melding of flavours from different worlds.

Another highlight, From Rome to India, A Stop-Over in Greece, is a saddle of lamb tikka masala, Greek fava meze, buttermilk and mint is a reflection of his time working at some of the top hotels in South Asia.

Upstairs, Anantara has opened up one of the largest rooftop bars in Rome and has sweeping views across the city. The indoor/outdoor setting stretches to a pool area which turns into a nightclub by 10pm on Friday and Saturday nights – you’ll see women clicking down the hall in their Tom Ford heels and Versace dresses. And the food is exceptional at the rooftop. Seen by Olivier is a fusion restaurant that combines Italian, Brazilian and Japanese flavours. It’s a fun juxtaposition of crowds, with the young hustling at the bar for cocktails while cool middle-aged Roman couples with their oversized Celine glasses and Chanel tote bags enjoy a late-night meal.

The room and suites are large for a Roman hotel and there is an interesting mix from a 22-square-metre room that overlooks the central courtyard to the 186-square-metre Presidential Suite. There are also two-level loft duplexes, which overlook the Palazzo Naiadi and have a separate sitting area downstairs while a delicious king-sized bed sits on the mezzanine.

In true Italian fashion, the décor is rich and heavy with light-coloured chesterfields and marble coffee tables. The bathroom, though, is something to be marvelled at. There are twin sinks, again with typical Italian marble, as well as a whirlpool bathtub and large walk-in shower.

Guests are provided with an array of Acqua di Parma amenities and thoughtful extras like a shaving kit, hairbrush and dental kits.

The rooms too have automatic blackout shades and light settings, so you don’t have to stumble down from your mezzanine bedroom in the dark. There is also a mini bar and, of course, a Nespresso machine. Some of the other suites and rooms have balconies and terraces, 104

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Concierge

/ Location

where the butlers will serve cocktails for aperitivo hour or even room service.

Like most sites in Rome – as my taxi driver tells me, “You dig, and then you find an ancient rock” – the hotel is suspended over ruins of the Baths of Diocletian and today, guests can see the excavated foundations, mosaics and pools. This is where Rome’s rich and powerful would come and sit for a gasbag while taking in the healing waters of the baths.

Anantara is known for its spa and wellness rituals, and the team in Italy has created a menu that uses the ancient rituals of the Romans. I am scheduled in for a two-hour Diocletian Spa & Bath Ritual which costs €240 (about AU$400). They use ingredients the Romans used to regenerate and rebalance – things like sage, lavender, laurel, St John’s wort, olive oil and honey.

I’m scrubbed and rubbed and wrapped in mud – all before a steam and a final flourish of a full body massage. Without a doubt, the feeling is heavenly, and I come out looking like a young Sophia Loren (or so I would like to think).

Aside from personal shopping and butler service, Anantara Palazzo Naiadi also offers unique experiences organised by the concierge. Guests can explore Rome by Vespa or Cinquecento and zip through the cobbled alley like Gregory Peck. The three-hour tour in a double sidecar takes in sites such as the Trevi Fountain, Villa Borghese and the Orange Garden. For the colder months, they’ll whip out a vintage Fiat 500 and finish the day with sunset over the city with a glass of prosecco in hand at the Belvedere del Gianicolo. They also offer Roman cooking classes. The chefs will take guests to the neighbourhood market to source fresh ingredients to make pasta, pizza and gelato.

On the Eat, Pray, Love excursion, guests are taken around the narrow streets of Monti, Travestere, Testaccio and Trevi to see the imperial ruins and centuries-old churches, as well as family-run trattorias and bohemian co-ops. Tours are guided, with the option of transportation by golf cart or limousine.

There is a swarm of beautiful, luxurious five-star hotels in Rome, but there is something truly special and unique about the Anantara Palazzo Naiadi. It’s the perfect embodiment of modern-day Rome – warm, sophisticated and chic, but a little bit gritty, incorporating history into its present and future. CT Cruise&Travel

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My Roman holiday XInside the glam Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome and scenes from the nearby piazza.

The Anantara Palazzo Naiadi sits just outside Rome’s historic district, but it’s nicely within walking distance. The Spanish Steps is just a 20-minute walk away, and if you take the metro from right outside the hotel, it’s just a few stops to the Vatican.

/ Hot tip

Go for sunset drinks at the hotel’s Seen by Olivier Rooftop Bar where the music is chill and the vibe is calm. If you are staying over the weekend, the music starts pumping after sundown and it’s hard to find a seat.

/ Price

A Deluxe Room on a weeknight starts from about $655 per night. With breakfast, the price rises to $753 per night. Duplex Suite Piazza Views, which can sleep four people, start from $2077.

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Hotels & Resorts

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STAIRWAY to HEAVEN

Teresa Ooi recalibrates and reconnects with nature at Wild Luxury’s Crane Lodge.

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t reminds me of the Led Zeppelin song ‘Stairway to Heaven’. Crane Lodge sits in the treetops above iconic Palm Beach, only an hour’s drive north of Sydney. But it could be a world away.

An inclinator takes guests to a wooden landing at the entrance to an amazing and unique luxury house built into majestically tall gum trees. It’s like no other holiday home I’ve stayed in.

The setting is serene, the house stylishly designed with 180-degree views over the treetops overlooking Pittwater. You immediately feel one with nature.

Nestled among endangered spotted gum trees on the Barrenjoey Peninsula, the four-bedroom, three-bathroom main house is supplemented by a studio apartment at the base of the property. There’s ample space for outdoor entertainment with a barbecue, heated pool, cedar hot tub and fire pit.

Inside, the dining room occupies prime position with views cutting across the canopy of trees to the Pacific Ocean. It blends natural beauty with aesthetic design and bespoke wooden furniture. A generous-sized kitchen overlooks the back garden and a benchtop with seats in front of the main sitting room.

There’s also a separate, comfortable lounge with a fire pit, great for cozy evening catch-ups.

Upstairs, you have a choice of the master bedroom with an old-fashioned bath in an alcove or a bathroom with rain shower.

The second bedroom has a double bed and plenty of cupboard space. Across a tiny bridge, is a third, very private bedroom which is set apart from the main house and suspended like a treehouse. How very quaint.

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An exclusive stay

XFor a holiday home that exudes privacy and is perfect for time away with friends or family, this is Crane Lodge.

Facing the main sitting room is the large entertainment area at the back of the house.

Down some side steps at the garden, is a second landing with space for yoga and Pilates classes and, if you are feeling fit, you can climb the 139 steps from the private road to the lodge.

There is an expansive and hilly landscaped garden, so we opt for a guided forest bathing experience with Mayumi Kataoka from Forest Minds. And what a joy it is. Japanese naturalist and Tai Chi instructor Mayu is first and foremost a Certified Forest Therapy Guide who specialises in therapeutic walks through the gardens. In Japanese, it’s known as “shinrin-yoku” (forest bathing).

Through sensory sounds, scent and touch, Mayu connects us with nature in the forest. Over two hours, we walk through the gardens as Mayu teaches us to smell, touch and detect the messages trees, plants and flowers are sending out.

By the time we reach the bottom, we all feel as if we understand and appreciate nature so much better. The Forest Bathing experience ends with a tea ceremony where we sip green tea and nibble delicate Japanese cookies. A perfect soiree with nature.

Apparently, the Japanese government initiated forest bathing for the entire nation after productivity dropped because workers were burning out. And it spread as a way of reducing tension and calming the mind.

Crane Lodge is only a short drive to Palm Beach. Charming in every way, you simply can’t go wrong with a walk down to the beach, taking a dip in the pristine waters or climbing the Barrenjoey Lighthouse before rewarding yourself with 107

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Hotels & Resorts

Book it

Wild Luxury’s Signature Wellness Package costs $7425 for two nights (for up to 8 guests) at Crane Lodge, including a three-course lunch or dinner with a private chef, guided forest bathing, a yoga class, sparkling wine on arrival and a late checkout. See wildluxury.co/packages

CRANE LODGE, PALM BEACH

lunch at the boatshed. You can also drive to Whale Beach, although there’s some extensive work being carried out at the beachfront.

As the sun sets we settle down for a private dining evening by experienced chef Manuel (Manny) Affarian from Secret Dining.

He learnt to cook as a young boy in his mother’s kitchen, crushing garlic and chilli to make a spicy paste.

Prior to our arrival, we chat with Manny on what we like to eat and the evening’s menu. He arrives promptly with all the ingredients prepared beforehand and ready to cook and chat with us at the lodge’s kitchen.

We had three starters of oven-roasted tomatoes with goat’s cheese; prawns pan-fried in chilli oil and basil with avocado salsa, and stuffed zucchini flowers – all delicately presented and so delicious.

Our mains include pan-fried chicken breast with pesto stuffing with pumpkin, glazed carrots and corn-on-the-cob and sirloin steaks with pumpkin, rocket pear and parmesan salad.

We finish with a baked souffle with a raspberry coulis sauce.

Manny was happy to give us several tips on how to make his very yummy, pan-fried zucchini flowers – a dish I have always wanted to master.

He told us he had worked for various five-star hotels including Crown Casino and Sofitel, but now runs his own business, Secret Dining, which also includes cooking for guests at 108

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“Not only did we get the chance to reconnect with the environment, we also experienced the joy of waking up to songbirds.”

Nature’s bounty

TThe stunning Crane Lodge is suspended at the apex of endangered angophora bushland and its natural setting can be enjoyed throughout the property.

Calabash Bay Lodge, another Wild Luxury retreat which is on the Hawkesbury River and only accessible by boat.

Wild Luxury was founded by Kim and Derek Ellis, who built two unique retreats for guests to escape the noise of everyday life and reconnect with nature. Kim is a former tech marketing executive and Derek runs a global design and technology business. They are passionate about creating a unique experience by reconnecting with nature, leaving guests with enduring memories of time spent with family, friends and colleagues.

Our two wonderful nights at Crane Lodge slipped by far too quickly and all too soon it was time to say farewell. If there’s one thing we all felt at the end of our stay, it was the sense of joy of spending special time together in a luxury treehouse.

Not only did we get the chance to reconnect with the environment, we also experienced the joy of waking up to songbirds, surrounded by tall gum trees. It was a weekend away with a different twist – the wonders of nature. CT Cruise&Travel

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Flight Review

QATAR AIRWAYS

Mile high cocktails

After a trip to Europe on Qatar Airways, Peter Lynch understands why Qantas and the government fear giving the carrier more access to the Australian market.

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et around the table with a group of European cruisers and the talk will eventually turn to the long journey home. One name kept cropping up as offering the best business-class flight to Australia – Qatar Airways.

So on a journey to Istanbul to pick up a cruise from Turkey to Greece, I was keen to see if the airline lived up to the hype – especially since I was travelling just as the row over the government’s halt on extra flights to Australia was taking off.

After spending 18 hours in the tender care of Qatar staff, I can now see why former Qantas CEO Alan Joyce and Prime Minister Anthony Albanese were so determined to ban Qatar’s bid for additional flights. They’re just too good!

On board flight QR909 Sydney to Doha, my first taste of an airline that has this year won awards as World’s Best Business Class

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for the tenth time, World’s Best Business Class Lounge, World’s Best Business Class Lounge Dining and Best Airline in the Middle East was going serenely.

I’m a habitual Singapore Airlines’ fan. It’s my benchmark airline: good service, yummy food and new planes. I’ve tried many others – austere Lufthansa, mercurial British Airways, nice but slightly shabby Cathay Pacific, good but basic Latam, and, of course, Qantas… a work in progress since the pandemic. I’m a pretty tough judge. Imagine my surprise when Qatar proved a brilliant alternative.

We loved that Qatar is preserving its A380s. Ever since Airbus announced the demise of the world’s largest passenger jet, fans like us have been in mourning. This giant of the skies gives the smoothest ride, the most room and the best service of any flying machine. The yappy, noisy Boeing 777s that often replace this marvellous machine are no comparison.

Sure, they save airlines like Qantas lots of money because they have two engines. But for passengers, the noise and cramped conditions make them a lot less fun to fly and almost impossible to sleep in. Our second leg to Istanbul was on a newer, smaller A350-900. But the pods were the same, as was the service, food and wine. / Service and cabin crew The cosmopolitan staff were effortlessly friendly. Even when a little girl had what looked like a serious episode, they handed out drinks while administering oxygen and working with a doctor as if it were all just part of the job. I was especially impressed that on all four flights, the senior steward came to each passenger, looking them firmly in the eye and asked for feedback about his crew, the service and the food. You’ve got to have confidence to do that.

We loved the business-class pods. Set diagonally to the window, they were a trifle skinny – but still offered full flatbed status. And there’s plenty of storage (the shoe locker is a brilliant idea).

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shopping that was fun as well as duty-free. It would be worth flying the airline for this experience alone. / The Plane We flew the A380 to Doha. It’s been a while between drinks, but there, at the back of the plane was my idea of flying heaven: a stand-up bar. Yes, you can actually stretch out, have a drink (or a tea, if you prefer) and chat with your fellow passengers.

On our return flight, we spent a happy hour with a judge from Nigeria heading to Sydney for her son’s wedding. She showed us her fabulously colourful wardrobe for the ceremony. Her stories of her children and family will live with us forever. We marvelled at the cultural exchange. It’s what makes travel so important.

We would never have had that experience sitting in businessclass pods, talking to no-one and watching movies like Marcel the Shell with Shoes (I kid you not – it’s a real movie title!)

I posted on Instagram that Airbus Industries should be challenged for grounding a plane of this quality. It was, I pointed out, “un-Australian” to stop making an aircraft with a pub on board. Even I was surprised when I received thousands of messages of support.

On the food front, the Arabic fare was best. But the crayfish was delicious, especially with the Billecart-Salmon Brut. And if it says anything about their quality, I’m still wearing the PJs. / Lounge OMG! At Doha, we found a business-class lounge that outmatched any on the planet. It was huge – with chefs preparing dishes even at 9pm, including made-to-order sushi, laksa soup and plenty of fresh bread, dips, steaks and salads.

Across what seemed like a football field filled with comfy nooks was a snack bar serving fresh salads and tasty desserts.

There were acres of seating, showers – everything the weary traveller could hope for. And outside, there was big brand Cruise&Travel

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It’s just business

Clockwise, from top: Qatar Airways’ lounge bar; a single Qsuite; gourmet meals on board; dining in Al Mourjan Business Lounge.

/ Check in Smooth, unruffled and seamless. Bags interlined without a hitch (and we had a weighty collection for our 10-day sojourn).

Soon we were in the Air New Zealand Lounge at Sydney sipping bubbles and enjoying a light dinner.

Overall Rating Small wonder legions of passengers are up in arms about the flight ban. Qatar excelled in just about every way. And I can’t wait to fly with the airline again. Sorry, Qantas. CT 111

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Flight Review

ETIHAD AIRWAYS

Great food…

shame about the airline Teresa Ooi finds Etihad’s galley is its only saving grace.

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never thought the day would come when I looked forward to eating airline food. But this wasn’t any old airline food, but Arabic cuisine. I flew to Europe Business Class on board Etihad Airways. And since I forked out the full fare of more than $10,000 for a return Business Class ticket to Germany, I had high expectations – naturally.

On my flight from Sydney to Abu Dhabi on Etihad’s Boeing 777-300, I dined on a starter of Arabic mezze with a selection of warm and cold appetisers of hummus, warak ebab (stuffed grape leaves) and tabbouleh – they were surprisingly tasty and fresh. The highlight was the main dish of chicken biryani cooked with basmati rice and spices topped with crushed cashew nuts, pomegranate and fried onions.

I was blown away, it was delicious and oh-so-fragrant. Besides the main meal, the airline also offers all-day top-up mini meals including steak sandwiches, chicken-and-tarragon pies and seasonal fruit platters.

On my return leg from Frankfurt to Abu Dhabi, I had the same Arabic starter and chose lamb biryani which was just as delicious as the previous meals.

But unless you’re a confirmed gourmand, there are a few drawbacks to flying Etihad. For example, there is no complimentary WiFi for business-class passengers. I was astounded to be told I had to pay US$5 for internet access for the Sydney to Abu Dhabi sector, and I refused to pay an additional charge for the Abu Dhabi to Milan sector: it’s mean considering other competitor airlines offer free WiFi on longhaul flights.

/ Planes On the long 14-hour leg to and from Abu Dhabi to Sydney, Etihad deploys its noisy Boeing 777-300ER jet plane. There’s a distinct lack of storage space for spectacles, toiletries and reading material. However, the Aqua di Parma amenities bag, with hand sanitiser, hand cream, toothbrush/toothpaste, socks with grips and eye mask, was a welcome relief.

The seats slide to a flatbed and the Armani-designed plush duvet and pillow are conducive to sleep on a long-haul flight.

But there are seats facing the rear which look odd, as you can see your fellow passengers clearly – not always a good thing!

Toilets are basic and stark – there is no hand lotion or skin refresher – only soap and hand sanitiser are provided. And on one long-haul flight, the toilet rolls were not replenished.

Elevated style

XClockwise, from above: The business-class cabin; the flatbed; a seating pod; buffet in the Business Class Lounge; the Arrivals Lounge.

/ Service and cabin crew The largely female cabin crew were smartly turned out with an Italian-designed, deep mauve skirt and pants suit, and wore scarves and matching berets. But alas, they were about as friendly as a runway model in Paris. The service lacked warmth and empathy.

As a lone woman traveller, I expect help to store my hand luggage in the overhead locker. Only once was I extended assistance from a tall female cabin crew member.

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“The seats slide to a flatbed and the Armani-designed plush duvet and pillow are conducive to sleep.”

The airline deploys the much newer Boeing 787-9 on the Abu DhabiMilan and Frankfurt-Abu Dhabi legs of the journey. The plane looks refreshed, and the feel of the plane is newer and more pleasant as the aircraft noise is not so over-powering. / Etihad Lounge The House lounge which Etihad uses in Sydney Airport is adequate but not at all flash. While you can order a la carte food, the buffet offerings are limited, service is slow, and you have to go to the bar for a glass of bubbles. It is also not easy to locate, as it is tucked away next to the Amcal chemist. The good news is that the Business Class lounge we visited in Abu Dhabi has been superseded by an all-new lounge at the recently opened Terminal A. The Etihad lounge in Frankfurt is the worst of all – small, unimpressive and with a limited choice of hot food. But it does have free WiFi. / Check-in This is where the airline fails miserably in Abu Dhabi. When gates open and it is time for passengers to board the plane, there is a lack of clarity that priority boarding is reserved for first and business classes and passengers with children or those in wheelchairs. All passengers surge forward, and it is a struggle to push through the queues to get to the front. Proper priority lanes should be set up so that all passengers – economy and business class – are fully aware of when to board the flight. / Overall rating This is my first experience of Etihad business class. The fare is expensive, the toilets are basic and business class does lack… well… class! Surprisingly, on the long haul from Abu Dhabi to Sydney, I managed to sleep for several hours – with noise-cancelling headphones. With so many carriers on this route, Etihad certainly wouldn’t be my first choice. CT Cruise&Travel

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My Life In Travel

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“My job has given me the most incredible vantage spots” As a journalist, she travels the globe covering the world’s biggest news events. Now as ambassador for Avalon Waterways, MELISSA DOYLE is enjoying a change of pace.

My first holiday...

That would have been our annual road trip to the Gold Coast from Sydney each January – bundled into the car well before the sun came up for the long drive north. I always kept diaries of what I saw and experienced along the way. We used to stay in the same weatherboard cottage on the beach near Currumbin. And my days were filled with swimming and collecting shells and crabs.

My first cruise...

In 2022 with Avalon Waterways as part of the Storyteller series with [author] Cheryl Strayed down the magnificent Danube. My favourite part was simply sitting in my room with a coffee (or a glass of wine depending on the time of day!) the full-length floor-to-ceiling windows flung wide open, the curtains billowing, absolutely in awe of the glorious view. I spent hours contemplating which castle I should live in.

Favourite overseas place to visit and why?

I will admit to loving Italy. The food, the people, the countryside. My husband speaks Italian so that certainly helps. We adored Siena, and were lucky enough to time it with the Palio [a bareback horse race held on July 2 and August 16]. But I don’t have a favourite place – I love to go somewhere I have never been. I loved the vastness of Mongolia; a town in Bulgaria called Plovdiv – the oldest in Europe; the history in Armenia; the temples in Cambodia; and the endless red sands of Wadi Rum. One of the most special family trips was taking my mother-in-law to Italy.

Her father was born in Milan but she had never seen his home country, so we found his birthplace. Being in her eighties, we did everything to make the trip for her as comfortable and easy as possible, so heading from Florence to Siena we booked a car. The driver turned up, asked for John and we all happily piled in. Until halfway there, on the freeway, he realised Cruise &Travel

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he had the wrong John and turfed us out on the side of the road.

Best trip for work?

I’ve been to some extraordinary places for work… trekking deep into the jungle of Guyana to the site of the Jonestown massacre, our guides using machetes to clear a path, we had to frantically wrap our equipment in garbage bags to prevent major damage from the tropical downpours; coming in for a combat landing on the razor-wired airfield in Kenya to go to the Dadaab refugee complex; rushing into St Peter’s Square with thousands of others over the course of two days and five ballots, waiting for the smoke to finally come out white to announce the new Pope; broadcasting for a full 24 hours from Anzac Cove to cover the centenary of the Gallipoli campaign, 15 hours at the foot of Uluru covering Prince William and Princess Kate’s visit – and having the privilege to watch the sun move across the rock and continually change its colours; and standing on the top level of scaffolding on the roof of a multi-storey office building in Washington to give us a perfect view of Capitol Hill to cover the inauguration of President Obama, and being so cold I couldn’t hold the microphone still. My job has given me the most incredible vantage spots and access to places I wouldn’t have as a tourist.

Favourite travelling companion and why?

Definitely my family – my husband, and two grown children. We all have different things we like to see and that makes the rest of us venture out a little more and see somewhere in a way we may not have otherwise. My boys dragged us to the race track in Monza, my daughter and I dragged them to the fancy shops on Fifth Avenue. I signed us up for fly fishing and horse riding in Canada, our son got us to an ice hockey game in the US.

In the lens

Clockwise, from left: Mel Doyle and her travel highlights of Siena’s Palio race; Cambodia’s temples; and on the job in Kenya.

Best travel tip ever?

Travelling with TV crews, I saw places and people not on the tourist trail. Our cameraman would encourage us to look up – look at a city in the way a photographer might – be still and appreciate the beauty. And producers would be so inquisitive – chat to that stranger, knock on that door, pop into the library. Take the time to go slow, immerse yourself in a place, feel its energy and heartbeat.

My next holiday...

An eight-day cruise along the Rhine with Avalon Waterways. I’m so excited to see Holland and Germany – two places I have never been – and soak up the beauty. CT

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Last Word

FREE SLIPPERS: The new battleground for luxury hotels

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"WE WERE THROWING AWAY MORE THAN 2000 PAIRS OF SINGLE-USE SLIPPERS A MONTH.”

“After assessing our waste, we were disappointed to discover we were throwing away more than 2000 pairs of single-use slippers a month,” says Jason Adams, managing director at luxury spa hotel Rockliffe Hall in North East England. “We realised this was totally avoidable so decided to make ours a barefoot spa, removing disposable slippers altogether,” he says.

But hang on, slippers aren’t going to be the biggest offenders in the hotel, so is this just “virtue signalling”, a chance for hotels to save some cash while vaguely looking like they care? Or is it the beginning of a greater move towards sustainability?

“It depends what else is happening on the property,” says Leo Ghitis, co-founder of Nayara Resorts, an award-winning collection of sustainable hotels in Central and South America, which includes Nayara Bocas del Toro in Panama, where five in-depth environmental studies were carried out to ensure the environment was being protected and nurtured rather than harmed. “If it’s part of a larger campaign at the hotel to have no single-use items – front and back of house – then it’s definitely a step in the right direction.”

So will the movement alienate fans of free slippers and just make them move on to somewhere else that still offers them – or make them realise hotel slippers just aren’t that exciting?

A serial slipper swiper I know admitted she hardly ever wore them while actually in the luxury hotel – why would you, when rooms are warm and often lined with expensively soft carpets – and that they went straight into the bottom of the wardrobe when she got home. (“There are only so many pairs you can have in your life,” she says.) Quality varies, of course – the flimsy ones really aren’t worth bothering with, but the plusher varieties can be hard to resist.

“Of course, there will always be the contingent that walks around the room going ‘where’s my free stuff?’” one London hotel insider concurs.

“But I think that’s diminishing. Now we’re thinking more about how we travel and want to have nice things but not at the expense of the environment.”

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First daily towel washing became a shameful activity, then single-use toiletries – and now they have come for our slippers, writes Francesca Syz.

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o we got over the towel thing. They really don’t need to be washed every day when you’re staying in a hotel. And there’s a reason we’ve never glimpsed members of housekeeping refilling those miniature toiletry bottles like they’re a giant in a doll’s house, because they get chucked in the bin after each use and go straight to landfill. So bigger, refillable bottles that stay in the room are definitely the way forward. But slippers?

Surely they’re okay.

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eanwhile, the Cinderella-like search for the perfect slipper continues, with resorts such as Bawah Reserve, a sustainable private island in Indonesia, settling on biodegradable ones made of woven local rattan, said to be so comfortable that guests abandon the shoes they came in and wear these slippers throughout their stay. But I’m yet to find a hotel offering slippers that can be passed on from one guest to the next.

“We did think about reusable slippers at Heckfield Place,” says Vivien Schaper, part of the historic English hotel’s housekeeping team.

“However an option that could withstand repeated cleanings, while still remaining luxurious and comfortable and made from sustainable materials, didn’t exist. In the end, we managed to find one made from natural coconut fibre and cotton that is fully recyclable and biodegradable, so that’s what we went for. We also stock bedrooms with complimentary house-made seasonal cordial, bath salts and numerous other full-sized bath products we’ve produced ourselves.”

Personally, I’m happy with a help-yourself decanter of locally distilled gin or whiskey. And I’ll never forget the time we were brought complimentary shortbread biscuits with our tea while staying at Heckfield Place. My six-year-old daughter’s face fell; she wasn’t keen on shortbread, which was clocked by the general manager who happened to be passing at that moment. “You don’t like those, do you?” she laughed. “How about chocolate chip cookies instead?” She had a fan for life. Now that’s the sort of thing one remembers.

“Most travellers just want to see the essentials being done right. Ensuring the rooms are quiet, linen is beautiful, beds are comfortable, WiFi is super-fast and that it all looks nicer than home,” adds my hotel insider.

And those special occasion guests who might not stay in hotels very often? I think they’re going to remember that the receptionist or butler knew their name and the fact it was their 30th wedding anniversary, rather than the slippers. CT 117

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Last Word

Five hotels offering sustainable luxury 1 1. / Heckfield Place, Hampshire

In 2020, this beautifully converted Georgian manor became the first UK hotel to have its own farm certified as 100 per cent biodynamic, producing flowers for the in-house florist and much of its food, rotating arable crops and organic produce. It also has a dairy (to generate milk, cream and butter for both the hotel and the local community), sheep, pigs, free-range chickens and beehives; and you will find the hotel’s own natural skincare line – Wildsmith Skin – in bedrooms and the spa. Heckfield is single-use plastic-free and there are bio-mass boilers and boreholes to harvest rainwater.

2. / De Durgerdam, Amsterdam, Netherlands Less than 10 kilometres east of the centre of Amsterdam in a coastal village is newly opened De Durgerdam, once a cosy

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17th-century inn for sailors. Today, it’s a stylish small hotel with a restaurant by the duo behind the Dutch capital’s two Michelin-starred 212. Its entire concept is rooted in minimising its carbon footprint and positively impacting the local community. While slippers are not provided, rooms come with yoga mats and a decanter of local sherry and you can borrow reusable thongs on request. You can also hire an electric bike to explore your surroundings.

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3. / Reschio, Umbria, Italy

The owners of this 1500-hectare estate, Count Benedikt Bolza and his family, have spent 30 years rewilding and developing ways to eliminate waste and reduce pollution while opening and running a high-end castle hotel and a series of imaginatively restored houses and cottages. Expect everything from crop rotation and geothermal heat pumps to compostable slippers.

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4. / The Datai Langkawi, Malaysia This five-star beach resort in the rainforest is famous for combining high-end luxury with sustainable practices and is working towards achieving zero waste to landfill by increasing its recycling and

upcycling initiatives, including wastewater management, in-house water bottling, banning single-use plastics, turning food waste into soil and upcycling materials such as wax, soap and glass. A current experiment involves guest slippers being dismantled and using the stuffing to create beanbags and cushions.

5. / Cap Karoso, Sumba, Indonesia

The island of Sumba welcomed this sleekly luxurious, 65-room eco-resort earlier this year and its French owners are committed to sustainability and un-patronising community engagement (so don’t expect traditional dancers to perform at dinner). It has an organic farm, a school of agriculture, cultural workshops and pop-up ateliers by local artists.

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SYDNEY FOR SAILORS A city guide for cruise passengers from Cruise&Travel Magazine and Port Authority of NSW. Free at Overseas Passenger Terminal and White Bay Cruise Terminal. sydneytravelguide.com.au

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TRAVEL BEYOND ORDINARY

For more information on Tauck’s full portfolio on 2024 river cruises, contact your travel advisor on 1800 962 043 or go to tauck.com.au

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