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CAN YOU REALLY RETIRE AT SEA?
• Icon of the Seas: our verdict • Meet the new multi-gen traveller • Regent’s work of art
AUSTRALIA/NZ AU$14.95
Beyond Bula On board Fiji’s first expedition ship
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INTRODUCING
IMMERSIVE OVERNIGHTS Revised itineraries with an overnight stay in every port of call that allows for deeper immersive exploration and An Unrivalled Experience™.
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CELEBRATE A NEW ERA OF LUXURY
SEVEN SEAS GRANDEUR™ A Heritage of Perfection LAUNCHED NOVEMBER 2023
Decades of experience and masterful craftsmanship, married with the finest materials and stunning designs, deliver elegant comfort and style for the very best of luxury cruising. Experience this Heritage of Perfection for yourself on a voyage you’ll never forget aboard
Seven Seas Grandeur™, our newest addition to The World’s Most Luxurious Fleet™.
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IMMERSIVE OVERNIGHT SAILINGS ADRIATIC ELEGANCE
VENICE (TRIESTE)
•
TRIESTE - TO ATHENS
ZADAR
•
KOTOR
•
Seven Seas Voyager® ATHENS (PIRAEUS)
•
DEPARTS
DURATION
UP TO
5 OCT
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63 INCLUDED
2024
NIGHTS
SHORE EXCURSIONS
MICHELIN-STAR COASTLINE DINNER & ATHENS
SPLENDID SPLIT & A CAPPELLA PERFORMANCE
PANORAMIC VENICE
NEW Shore Excursion in Athens, Greece
NEW Shore Excursion in Zadar, Croatia
Included Shore Excursion in Venice, Italy
Settle in for a panoramic drive through Athens at dusk, followed by an extraordinary dinner at a seaside restaurant with a coveted Michelin-star rating.
Enjoy an introductory walking tour through Split in the evening and hear a stirring a cappella performance of traditional klapa songs over dinner.
Celebrate the dazzling sights of Venice's islands, part of the citys UNESCO World Heritage site designation, from the comfort of a private motor launch.
ENCHANTMENT IN NORTHERN EUROPE
HELSINKI STOCKHOLM• COPENHAGEN
• • BERLIN
(WARNEMÜNDE)
•
COPENHAGEN - TO STOCKHOLM Seven Seas Navigator® DEPARTS
DURATION
UP TO
27 JUN
10
40 INCLUDED
2025
NIGHTS
SHORE EXCURSIONS
PRIVATE EVENING AT PRINCE EUGEN'S WALDEMARSUDDE
LIFESTYLES OF THE RICH AND FAMOUS
THE NOBEL PRIZE GALA EXPERIENCE
NEW Shore Excursion in Stockholm, Sweden
NEW Included Shore Excursion in Stockholm, Sweden
NEW Shore Excursion in Stockholm, Sweden
Browse the impressive collection of art at Waldemarsudde, an acclaimed museum that will open after-hours exclusively for this evening event.
Gain insight into what life was like for Stockholm’s wealthiest families and tour the museum that was once the mansion of the ultra-rich Hallwyl family.
Walk through the atmospheric streets of Old Town and stop and the City Hall for a lunch that features a menu from a past Nobel Prize gala.
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Voyage
FRENCH POLYNESIA by SILVERSEA PARADISE, À LA CARTE
Silversea invites you to savour a new experience of paradise with a collection of 17 extraordinary itineraries that reveal French Polynesia in all its vibrant colour and character. Choose from 7-day voyages to discover the “Cradle of Polynesian Culture”, Raiatea, and 14-day voyages that allow you to linger longer in the Society, Marquesas and Tuamotu islands. A wealth of possibilities to explore the hidden treasures of French Polynesia and create your very own version of paradise.
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Photo by Steve McCurry
Contact your travel advisor, call 1300 306 872 or visit silversea.com
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Voyage
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Voyage
FROM ME TIME TO WE TIME
BEST CONTEMPORARY CRUISE LINE Cruise Passenger Readers’ Choice Awards 2023 Royal Caribbean
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MOST TRUSTED CRUISE OPERATOR Reader’s Digest Australia 2022
WINNER QUALITY SERVICE Readers Digest Awards 2023
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BEST FOR ACTIVITIES Cruise Passenger Readers’ Choice Awards 2022 1800 754 500
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AND THE ADVENTURES IN BETWEEN
WI T H AL L T HIS IN CLU D E D
All Main Meals^
All Entertainment
Most Onboard Activities
Kids & Teen Club
Fitness Centre
Adults-only Solarium
With so much included, balcony rooms that sleep 2-4 people and connecting rooms for extra space, there’s room for you and the whole crew.
HO LIDAY IN E VE RY WAY
^Additional charges apply for specialty dining. Alcoholic beverages not included.
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4/3/2024 2:00 pm
Contents
Cruise
Travel
March 2024 Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au Editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Associate editor Grant Jones grant@bigsplashmedia.com.au Sub editor Claire Waddell Art director Catherine Martin
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Commercial director Phil Mahony phil@bigsplashmedia.com.au Advertising sales manager Vida Folden vida@bigsplashmedia.com.au Contributors and writers Jane Archer, Sarah Baxter, Tallis Boerne Marcus, Sue Bryant, Bernadette Chua, David Dickstein, Amanda Hyde, Grant Jones, Steve King, Sally Macmillan, Catherine McGregor, Teresa Ooi, Hazel Plush, Francesca Syz Subscriptions Phone 02 8227 6486 – Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 – International cruisepassenger.com.au Cover: Tim Faircloth. Printed by IVE
cruisepassenger.com.au
MULTI MEDIA COMMUNICATIONS
Cruise & Travel magazine is published by Big Splash Media Pty Ltd, Suite G01, 46a Macleay Street Potts Point, Sydney 2011 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9356 8888 Managing director Peter Lynch All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Copyright Big Splash Media Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided. Always consult your travel agent.
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Contents / Autumn 2024 16
Upfront Travel is back and so are new luxury products with enticing offerings. We bring you up to date. And we chart the rise of private ‘air cruises’.
OCEANS
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60
Well-known hotel brands are taking on the luxury cruise market with yachts.
All you need to know about Silversea’s Silver Nova.
Rocking the boat
Reviews
48
Champagne super Nova
66
Battle of the bites
Loud & Proud
Going gourmet in NCL’s Prima class specialty restaurants.
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Finding the answer on Seven Seas Grandeur.
Heading to the remote islands of Fiji on Caledonian Sky.
Sailing the Caribbean on the new Icon of the Seas.
Can a ship be a work of art?
Beyond bula
Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 7:25 pm
Subscribe & Save
RIVERS Reviews
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86
Twice as nice
On board the largest river ship in the world, AmaMagna.
ESCAPES
94
108
How to keep everyone happy on a multi-generational family holiday together.
Check-in time at the luxury resort that is the star of Season 3.
Family matters
112
A guide to the best of the best in luxury, culture, adventure and more in New Zealand.
The lowdown on whether airfares at the pointy end are on their way down.
Ultimate NZ
Bye, bye bubble
104
114
Riding the rails on the most luxurious and expensive train through the Alps.
Flight review: United Airlines Polaris class.
Rails to riches
Never miss an issue of Cruise & Travel – subscribe today and get it home-delivered
White Lotus live
100
A polarising business
WIN a $2500 cruise voucher
116
My life in travel
Actor Stanley Tucci in conversation about a lifetime of holiday experiences.
118
Last word
What your choice of inflight movie says about you, your journey and your mindset.
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+ LINES COMMENDED • 1/11/2023 4:56 pm
Blown away
Destinations that change your life
For more information on Tauck’s full portfolio on 2024 river cruises, contact your travel advisor on 1800 962 043 or go to tauck.com.au
Cruise &Travel
passenger
AWARDS MAGAZINE 38 LINES RATED CT08RC_028_001_RSS_OFC.indd 1
• Kimberley with Ponant • Greece & Turkey • Danube dining + more
cruıse READERS’ CHOICE 2023
IN WITH THE NEW
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Visit our website: cruisepassenger.com.au 11
4/3/2024 7:25 pm
Welcome
FROM THE PUBLISHER
Inspiration overload
W
elcome to our autumn edition. We’ve had a lot of fun putting together an extraordinary mix of stories that will inspire your next adventure. We’ve been aboard the world’s largest ship, Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas. Every statistic about this vessel is jaw-dropping. And while many are repelled by the sheer size and numbers – 7600 at maximum capacity, plus a crew of 2350 – our experienced reviewer, Jane Archer, urges us to keep an open mind. She enjoyed the 20 decks and seven swimming pools, though she can’t vouch for all six waterslides and 40 restaurants and bars. Jane also sailed on Europe’s largest river ship. AmaWaterways is entering the Australian river cruise market as a new line – despite the fact we’ve been sailing on its ships for over two decades under the APT logo. The family-owned line has been in business as long as APT. The AmaMagna has five bars, four unique restaurants, and a sun deck with pool and whirlpool. Thankfully, no waterslides. I had a much more indulgent time aboard Regent Seven Seas Grandeur – the latest in the line’s meticulously built Explorerclass vessels. She is an art ship with more than $9 million worth of paintings and sculptures, including a 12-metre tapestry threaded with precious stones – and the first Fabergé egg at sea. I loved the new art tour app and the experience of hearing the artists explain their works. The ship is meticulously built and caused me to pose the question: Can a ship be a work of art? Listen to our podcast with the designer, who gives his take on the shape of ship design at cruisepassenger.com.au. Our cover story involves another of my adventures. Captain Cook Cruises Fiji is creating the Pacific’s first home-grown expedition cruise aboard the newly acquired Caledonian Sky. Some of you may remember this vessel being in the Kimberley when she was owned by APT. She has a rich Scottish history, and her wood-lined suites and corridors could tell many stories. Now she is sailing the islands of the Pacific, homeported in Fiji with plans to flag her there and crew her with local sailors. It’s a noble cause, and the destinations are breathtaking and beautiful. We dived among white-tipped sharks, drank fresh coconuts on pristine beaches and were met everywhere by islanders who greeted us with genuine joy. Many of these islands only ever see a supply ship, so the feeling of exploration was authentic. This is something very different just a few hours’ flying time from Sydney. The line is owned by an Australian family, and they deserve to succeed. Which brings us to the word of the year: immersion. You may have noticed how every tour, excursion or port stop today is “immersive”. You can’t pass a French village or a Spanish town without an “immersive” experience – in too many cases, the act of climbing out of a coach and setting foot on the village square seems to be it.
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Ancient wonders never cease
Next issue, we go to Luxor and see how tourism is faring in this unstable region.
The dictionary tells us immersion involves liquid or something with deep mental involvement. But we know it’s really about getting close to the local experience: the food, the wine, the culture and the people. It takes time. Can you do it on a one-day visit or a shore tour? You can certainly get a feel for a place. But only if it is done right. Beware imitations. Here’s how you can you tell if your tour is truly immersive: • Is it limited to no more than 10 guests? • Is it led by a local? Does it visit a local home? • Do you dine on local produce in a local restaurant? • Do you talk to a local artist and artisans? • Do you shop in local stores? Enjoy being immersed! CT Peter Lynch, Editor-in-chief and publisher Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 6:45 pm
WHAT WE’RE LOOKING FORWARD TO IN THE NEXT EDITION:
Cruise &Travel
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1/ PORTUGAL
A sailing on the hugely popular Douro River. We’ll be going with Avalon, but many lines are increasing their presence, as our story on page 80 explains. This region cannot put a foot wrong, so book quickly – you may find 2024 has already put out the “No Vacancy” sign for many favourites.
2/ EGYPT
Tours have suffered a slump thanks to tensions in the Middle East, and this poor country has taken a pounding in terms of its tourism. It’s one of the world’s great tourism centres but it borders on unstable neighbours. We are travelling the Nile to see how operators there are faring.
3/ SCENIC ECLIPSE
We can’t wait for the arrival in April of this beautiful discovery yacht. She’ll be in Australia for the first time and taking in iconic locations, including the Kimberley. She brings a very different level of adventure to her journeys, with helicopters, expedition experts and, of course, ultra-luxury.
4/ SUN PRINCESS
This is Australia’s favourite cruise line’s biggest ship, and she is launching in the Mediterranean. Princess is pushing its waterslides and size in a bid to conquer the multigenerational family cruise market, which is booming. But the line maintains the essential Princess DNA is still the same.
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Upfront | Inspiration for today’s sophisticated traveller |
page
36
Cruise &Travel
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APT partners with Seabourn
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Travel Trends
I
t can sometimes seem as though the world exists in two parallel universes. On the one hand, ordinary folk are constantly being urged – by politicians, eco-activists and celebrities – to fly less. On the other hand, demand for private jet travel, which spiked during the pandemic, shows no sign of slowing. Such is the clamour among wealthy travellers to avoid the crowds, some of the world’s top luxury tour operators and hotel groups, constantly on the search for new and innovative ways to keep their regulars happy, have come up with a new holiday concept: the “air cruise”, offering whistlestop world tours by private plane. “As a market leader in more classic escorted touring, we were keen to come up with something new,” says Andy Squirrell, the managing director of Titan Travel, which last year ran its first private jet adventure, a 23-day VIP expedition aboard a Boeing 737, covering Italy, Montenegro, Jordan, Uzbekistan and Turkey, among other destinations, for about $54,000 per person. “Coming out of Covid, we really got the sense that people had saved and didn’t want to wait any longer for their once-in-a-lifetime travel experience. It felt like the right moment to launch the touring-by-air concept, but at a price point that’s more accessible than conventional private air travel.” Among the very wealthy, travel has long involved private aviation. But what we’re seeing more of now is a re-invention of that traditional private jet experience, catering for bigger groups by using bigger aircraft, closer in size or sometimes comparable to those used for commercial flights and reconfigured to carry between about 50 and 80 passengers in great speed and comfort. Luxury tour operator Abercrombie & Kent offers its private jet tours aboard Boeing 757s, allowing 48 customers to travel in first-class style with fully lie-flat beds. Touching down in destinations not easily accessible via major carriers, the plane follows a flight timetable built around the itinerary, not the airline. The cheapest of A&K’s 2024 trips starts from $258,500 per person. It circles the globe in consummate style, taking in some of the world’s most seldom-seen wildlife, from the Sri Lankan leopard to the migrating humpback whale, touching down in Hawaii, Fiji, Tasmania, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Mauritius, Zambia and Brazil. The travelling party includes a valet, a doctor and a “photo enrichment” coach. 16
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Remote lands
Clockwise, from main: Sights of Bhutan; personal inflight service; on the Wildlife & Nature A&K jet tour; Amanbagh luxury resort, India; the A&K private jet.
RISE OF THE
‘AIR CRUISE’ It’s the new holiday for the super-rich: whistlestop world tours by private jet, writes Francesca Syz.
Hotel groups have also played their part, with Four Seasons and Aman offering global adventures by private jets of varying sizes since 2015. Aman’s offering is a collaboration with the luxury tour operator Remote Lands and offers trips that often stop in three different continents to take in all of its properties. Its Airbus ACJ319s carry up to 16 passengers, allowing them to get even further off the beaten track. “You can’t fly commercially between the destinations we visit, so the only way to do it in one itinerary is to fly privately,” says Catherine Heald, Remote Lands’ co-founder and chief executive. “The expeditions provide the perfect hybrid of small-group and private travel, with each couple or solo traveller having their own private car, driver and expert guide for touring. They allow guests who wouldn’t typically consider a smallgroup expedition to do exactly what they wish to do each day, as they would on a private trip.”
B
ut it’s not all about rushing from place to place in a box-ticking exercise, there is an increased thirst for learning about a particular destination or subject in greater depth and spending more time on the ground, than you would, say, on a luxury cruise. Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 6:42 pm
3 extraordinary air cruises
“You can’t fly commercially between the destinations we visit, so the only way … is to fly privately.”
• Around the world in a jumbo jet
“We realised we had a number of tours that go to a number of different incredible destinations that could work within that theme, touching on the history of the spice routes, the flavours, the scents. So we thought let’s weave them all together.” So how are companies reconciling the sustainability issue? Some are investing in sustainable aviation fuels (not yet viable), others are donating to carbon offset projects. Whether it goes far enough is debatable. “We are very conscious of the carbon emissions element, so work with a company called Climate Partner,” says Squirrel, who also points out that Titan will never do more than three or four of these trips per year. “We make sure we are off-setting all of our flight-related carbon emissions by contributing to relevant projects in the places we visit.” Shelley Cline, the president of TCS World Travel, a Seattle-based trailblazer in luxury travel, sums up the appeal of the air cruise: “Our guests travel with us because we provide luxury travel with a purpose and transformative journeys that resonate deeply on a personal level. They also get rid of the hassles of expeditionary travel without losing the adventure.” CT “There is often a theme with these jet expeditions,” says Chris Brunning, the co-founder and managing director of UK-based Untold Story Travel, who books private jets of all sizes for his clients. “Last year, one client wanted to witness the best of the Japanese cherry blossom season in early April, which involved stops in Tokyo, Kyoto, Mount Yoshino, Nara, Fuji Five Lakes, Naoshima and Niseko. They wanted an exclusiveuse night in a castle, a helicopter ride to Mount Koya with a head priest and private access to a sumo stable. The trip, for six people, aboard a nine-seat ‘super mid-size’ Citation Sovereign jet, cost about £50,000 (AU$97,000) per head.” According to Andy Squirrel, Titan’s spice route tour was inspired by Joanna Lumley’s Spice Trail Adventure. Cruise&Travel
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Forty-eight people will join luxury travel pioneer Geoffrey Kent of A&K on an amazing journey designed around a range of fascinating destinations. From Kanazawa in Japan to Ladakh, historic Malta and colourful Senegal, guests will experience every locale at its authentic best, going where other travellers cannot and partaking in exclusive visits to renowned cultural centres and historic sites. Flying in a customised Boeing 757 with lie-flat, first-class seats, a dedicated crew and an executive chef, there will be world-class dining and stays at the world’s finest luxury hotels throughout. From $285,000 per person, based on double occupancy; 13 October to 7 November 2024.
• ‘The Grandest Tour’
So called because it represents Aman’s longest itinerary yet, this 21-night trip is the ultimate showcase of the group’s properties, moving around the globe in a spacious Airbus ACJ319 jet, visiting hotels in the collection, beginning with Tokyo, before moving on to Vietnam, Thailand, Sri Lanka, India, Turkey and Greece. With the freedom of a private car, driver and guide in every destination you can combine private experiences with group activities. So in Tokyo, for example, you can join the group for a lesson in samurai sword combat before heading off with your driver to explore Jyogai Market and vibrant districts like Ginza and Akihabara, relax at animal cafes and catch a baseball game. From US$198,888 per person (AU$303,357), based on double occupancy; 19 April to 10 May 2025.
• The Spice Route by private jet
Inspired by the fabled Spice Route, Titan’s private jet tour follows the footsteps of ancient traders who brought exotic, highly sought-after spices like pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon and cardamom to the Western world. It’s going to be an aromatic, delicious journey, brought to life with behindthe-scenes tours on spice farms and plantations, visits to lively souks and fragrant spice markets, and chartered cruises on Kerala houseboats and Omani dhows. There’ll be four-wheeldrive tours over sand dunes and the chance to see beautiful Petra, creative workshops and art-themed walks in Venice, and banquets inspired by heritage recipes from the spice trade. From £34,995 (AU$67,705) per person, based on double occupancy; 13-19 March 2025.
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Upfront
It’s a PEARLER • The 30-guest boutique expedition
motor yacht Paspaley Pearl By Ponant has opened bookings for its first year of sailings. The ship is currently undergoing an extensive multimillion-dollar renovation before its 2025 launch. Ponant says the yacht will sail around the Kimberley as well as Australia’s Far North, East Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. The inaugural expedition departs 10 January 2025, sailing from Dili, East Timor to Bali over 10 nights. Cruisers can expect to swim with whale sharks and see Komodo dragons. The booking platform allows guests to book private air charters as well as pre- and post-cruise accommodation.
/ Bye-bye Branson
V
irgin Voyages has pulled out of Australia and New Zealand for its second season, citing the reason as being due to the ongoing conflict in the Red Sea. But rumours of heavy discounting throughout the season might also be an indicator of why Sir Richard Branson’s ship will not return. “This significant and ongoing Red Sea conflict puts unacceptable risks for safe passage through the region for our Sailors, crew and vessel. As a result, we have been left with no choice but to cancel our 2024/25 voyage season plans for Resilient Lady, impacting the late 2024 and early 2025 repositioning voyages between Europe and Australia and a second sailing season in Australian waters.” Resilient Lady will now divert to the Caribbean instead. Impacted cruisers will have the option to rebook another voyage or opt for a full refund given the change in plans.
• In the heart of the Yala JUST THE Jungle in Sri Lanka, AYURVEDIC Kotiyagala retreat has opened its 12-villa, TONIC
all-pool oasis, designed by award-winning architect Mano Ponniah. The property is nestled between Yala National Park and the Indian Ocean. Guests can see some of the park’s 44 species of native mammals and 215 species of birds on safaris or night treks. The signature restaurant serves a fusion of Western and local cuisines, such as Jaffna crab curry, as well as an Ayurvedic meal plan option. Culinary classes are available. The Ayurveda Spa is inspired by traditional Sri Lankan practices and uses local spa products.
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Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 5:11 pm
From Scandinavia to the rivers of Europe or the pristine wilderness of Antarctica and the Arctic, we invite you to unleash your inner Viking and join us in the pursuit of exploration. For a limited time, receive up to $3,000 flight credit per couple on 2025 and 2026 ocean voyages, enjoy included flights on 2025 and 2026 river journeys to Europe and Southeast Asia and savings of up to $4,000 per couple on expedition voyages. Hurry, offers end 28 March 2024
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SCAN FOR OFFERS
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Collaboration
All night long REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES
Regent Seven Seas Cruises® is the first cruise line to ever roll out itineraries like these – an overnight stay and evening shore excursions in every city, writes Bernadette Chua.
A
s the sun sets and it’s time to sail onwards through the night, there will be one luxury cruise line that offers overnight stays in every port they visit on selected sailings. Ultra-luxury line Regent Seven Seas Cruises® has conjured up something unique – six voyages across the Mediterranean, Northern Europe and Asia which stay for at least one night, and also offer guests an evening shore excursion. It’s not been done before and it’s just one of the reasons why the line has placed itself as an innovator in the industry. “Our Immersive Overnights collection featuring an overnight stay in every single port of call will change the way luxury travellers cruise. These extended overnight experiences will allow guests unparalleled immersion in a range of incredible global destinations. From Incheon, South Korea; to Zadar, Croatia; to Stockholm, Sweden,” says Andrea DeMarco, President of Regent Seven Seas Cruises®. In total, there will be 26 evening shore excursions especially crafted for those overnight stays. 20
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/ SEVEN SEAS VOYAGER
Trieste, Italy to Athens (Piraeus), Greece 5 October 2024 – 10 nights • Overnights in three of the Adriatic’s finest cities – Trieste, Italy; Zadar, Croatia; and Kotor, Montenegro – before sailing to Athens (Piraeus) for two nights on this 10-night adventure. Sample evening shore excursion: Zadar Sunset Serenade • Guests will explore the gems of the Adriatic Sea on board Seven Seas Voyager, including Zadar, Croatia. Cruising the sheltered waters of Jazine Bay as the sun begins to set, guests will find the ancient city is perfect for leisurely exploration. Guests disembark at the Sea Organ, where a set of marble steps plays harmonic sounds when seawater rushes through the pipes
fitted with whistles beneath the steps. In the peninsula city centre, guests can see portions of Roman-built fortified walls and an excavated forum whose construction started during the reign of Augustus – the first Roman emperor.
/ SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR
Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy to Barcelona, Spain 15 November 2024 – 7 nights • Feast on the best of Italian, French and Catalan art, food and culture on this 10-night journey to Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy; Tuscany (Livorno), Italy; Toulon, France; and Barcelona, Spain. Sample evening shore excursion: Sunset Wine Tasting & Dinner at a Tuscan Villa • Regent will take you to Villa Dianella, Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 1:10 pm
Evening awaits
XClockwise, from left: All the romance of an evening shore excursion; Kyoto, Japan; Barcelona, Spain; Seven Seas Splendor.
an elegant Tuscan estate. This is where the famed Medici family hunted during the 16th century. As an introduction to the area, travellers will first explore the nearby town of San Miniato. Perched atop a ridge high above the Arno Valley, the town is known for its white truffles, including a record-breaking one that weighed well over 1.8 kilograms. Following a full day of exploration, gourmands will enjoy a wine-tasting and beautiful evening meal at Villa Dianella – all prepared with locally sourced Tuscan ingredients. The seasonal menu may include a paccheri pasta with pecorino cheese and a wonderfully seasoned chicken dish with roasted vegetables. The tasting in the wine cellar will be just as memorable as the selections will be organic – guests will sample a blend made with Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and perhaps an Orpicchio white varietal.
/ SEVEN SEAS EXPLORER
Tokyo, Japan to Tokyo, Japan 5 March 2025 – 14 nights • Embarking from Tokyo, guests will visit Kyoto (via Kobe), Japan; Seoul (Incheon), South Korea; Shanghai, China; and Japan’s glittering capital Tokyo on this 14-night Asian adventure. Sample evening shore excursion: Seoul Night & Temple Cuisine • In Seoul, South Korea explore landmarks that define the capital’s past and present at night, when the sprawling urban landscape is beautifully illuminated. Few places in Seoul are more historic than Gwanghwamun Square, which has been a public gathering place for centuries. It features statues of two revered figures – King Sejong, who developed a phonetic system for writing the Korean language, and Yi Sun-sin, a brilliant 16th-century admiral renowned for his victories over the Japanese navy. A delightful meal of dishes that originated in Buddhist temples will follow. Temple cuisine is typically devoid of pungent vegetables, such as onions and garlic, as they are thought to hinder spiritual practices. Cruise&Travel
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For a glimpse at Seoul’s vision for the future, stop to photograph Dongdaemum Design Plaza, a cultural hub with a bold amorphous design, and the Sebit Islets, the world’s first floating cultural space. The islets look especially dramatic with its LEDs reflecting off the Hangang River. Sample evening shore excursion: Relaxing Shanghai Night Excursion • Guests will spend a stress-free, wonderfully serene evening in Shanghai. The experience will begin with a traditional Chinese foot massage in which pressure is applied to specific points that correspond to certain organs. Benefits may include restoring the natural flow of bodily energy. The foot massage will leave guests well prepared to browse the Shanghai History Museum, where dioramas tell the story of Shanghai’s evolution, decade by decade. The collection is astounding with priceless pieces on display in areas such as calligraphy, textiles and jade. A short walk will bring guests to the Super Brand Mall for a traditional Shanghainese meal.
/ SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR
Copenhagen to Stockholm 27 June 2025 – 10 nights • Seven Seas Navigator visits Copenhagen, Denmark; Berlin (Warnemunde, 2 nights); Helsinki, Finland; and Stockholm, Sweden (2 nights) on this 7-night exploration of some of Northern Europe’s most culturally rich cities. Sample evening shore excursion: Private Evening at Prince Eugen’s Waldemarsuddde • In the Swedish capital Stockholm, browse the impressive collection of art at Waldemarsudde, the former home of Prince Eugen. It has been converted into
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a museum which will open after-hours exclusively for an evening event. Born into royalty, Eugen became one of Sweden’s foremost landscape painters and an avid art collector with a keen eye. His early 20th-century Art Nouveau residence holds many of his finest works and objects of art that the prince collected over the years. The estate and museum opened to the public shortly after his death in 1947 and is now one of Stockholm’s most popular attractions. On the tour through Waldemarsudde, expect to see the prince’s studio, his private living quarters and some of his most inspiring landscapes. Although the collection features mainly Swedish artists, it also includes works by Picasso, Rodin and Edvard Munch. Even the setting of Waldemarsudde on the island oasis Djurgården is magnificent.
/ SEVEN SEAS SPLENDOR
Monte Carlo, Monaco to Athens (Piraeus), Greece 20 April 2025 – 10 nights • Embarking from glamorous Monte Carlo, this 10-night itinerary sails to Salerno, Italy for two nights, then Ephesus (Kusadasi), Turkey and Athens (Piraeus), Greece for one night each. Sample evening shore excursion: Wine & Dine Experience on the Amalfi Coast • Sample an inspiring selection of organic wines and savour an equally delightful dinner at Le Vigne Di Raito, a boutique winery on the Amalfi Coast. The experience will begin with a walking tour of the award-winning vineyard. Travellers will hear about the winery’s the unique terroir that encourages grapes such as Aglianico and Piedirosso to flourish. A tasting follows
Ship to shore
XClockwise, from far left: Copenhagen; Istanbul; a Regent Seven Seas Cruises® welcome; on deck; San Miniato, Italy; Kotor, Montenegro.
in the cellar, during which oenophiles will enjoy sampling flagship wines. Guests will then enjoy a home-cooked dinner of seasonal dishes made with local ingredients. A natural jam made with organic lemons from trees planted among the grape vines can sometimes be sampled – it is delicious on cheese. Sample evening shore excursion: Michelin-Star Coastline Dinner & Athens Excursion • During an overnight in Athens, settle in for a panoramic drive through the Greek capital at dusk. Sites include the Arch of Hadrian, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and even a statue of Lord Byron, the famed English poet who died in 1824 during the Greek War of Independence. Following the drive, guests will dine at seaside Varoulko, an acclaimed Michelinstarred Greek restaurant overlooking Mikrolimano Harbour. Chef Lefteris Lazarou’s inspiring menu focuses on fresh seafood, purchased each morning in local markets. Dishes may include octopus carpaccio, sesame-crusted tuna and the catch of the day. CT
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Upfront
BACK TO BROADWAY
• Revamped luxury line Crystal has resurrected themed cruises to lure film buffs, golf enthusiasts and Broadway fans to indulge their passion as they sail the world on either Crystal Symphony or Crystal Serenity. A star-studded cast of musicians, singers, TV actors, golf instructors and actresses will host cruises between a range of destinations, including Quebec City to New York City. On the 12-night Bangkok to Hong Kong cruise, guests will be treated to an extraordinary line-up of talent from the world of film and theatre including performances by Grammy-nominated singer Christine Allado. On the 12-night Lisbon to Dover cruise, keen golfers can get tips on how to improve their swings from renowned golf instructors David Leadbetter and Roberto Borgatti.
/ Guest guarantee
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mbassador Cruise Line is offering first-time cruisers with the line their money back if they are not enjoying their first sail. The new offer, dubbed the Ambassador Guarantee, is valid for new bookings only and is not available for Festive events or cruises under four nights. In the fine print, the Ambassador Guarantee says a passenger must state their intention to leave the cruise, and the reason why, to the Hotel Director within 24 hours of embarkation. If a solution cannot be agreed, Ambassador will cover the cost of transport to the passenger’s point of embarkation at the next available port, with the mode of repatriation, such as flights, rail or taxi, at Ambassador’s discretion, plus a night in a hotel, if needed. All other costs must be covered by the passenger.
CONRAD SLINGS into SINGAPORE
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• Hilton has debuted a second Conrad property in the Lion City, the Conrad Singapore Orchard. Formerly the Regent, the luxury hotel on the Orchard Road shopping strip has reopened following a refurbishment of the 12 cascading floors of guest rooms, restaurants and bars. The natural light of the property shines through an extensive range of artworks, 445 new guest rooms, and 46 suites with spacious lounges and expansive terraces. Some 10 restaurants and bars serve a mixture of Italian and Cantonese cuisine. It’s also home to Manhattan, one of Asia’s 50 Best Bars. Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 5:15 pm
Meet Star of the Seas
• Royal Caribbean, the owner of the world’s largest ship, Icon of the Seas, has announced a new vessel to be launched in 2025. Meet Star of the Seas. Details about the ship are scant but we do know she will be roughly the same size as her behemoth sister, Icon of the Seas. The ship will have a theme park, water park, indoor AquaTheatre, mini golf and three-storey suites. “The idea of combining the best of every type of vacation into one ultimate adventure has created more excitement than ever anticipated, and Star of the Seas will be the next bold answer to the record-breaking consumer demand we’ve seen for nearly a year and counting with Icon of the Seas,” says Michael Bayley, president and CEO of Royal Caribbean International.
/ Feast for the senses
S In the swing of it Irene Neuwirth turquoise and pearl swing hoops, $17,951.
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ix Senses Kyoto is set to launch in April with a focus on wellness, spa experiences and local adventure. The 81 guest rooms and suites range from about 42 to 238 square metres and are designed to look into either a peaceful central courtyard, the gardens of the Toyokuni Shrine or the Unesco heritage
city. Another big part of the Six Senses Kyoto journey is the spa which incorporates science, Japanese Zen culture and traditional healing. Guests can focus on their wellness with meditation and aerial yoga classes, as well as recover from jet lag in the Recovery Lounge. Six Senses Kyoto’s menus also have a healthy focus on locally grown, seasonal produce. 25
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CRYSTAL CRUISES
123 nights. 62 destinations. 31 countries. 17 overnights. Unparalleled sophistication on a grand voyage all around the world.
A TRAVEL EXPERIENCE LIKE NO OTHER I f you only go on one cruise during your lifetime, Crystal Cruises’ 2025 World Cruise should be it. Step aboard Crystal Serenity on a transformative journey to five exquisite continents. This is a voyage for true explorers, where days are spent immersed in the planet’s most breathtaking destinations, and evenings are elegant affairs filled with fine-dining, captivating entertainment and unrivalled service. You’ll be warmly welcomed by Crystal’s bona fide sea connoisseurs, to a ship where the crew knows you by name and your every nuanced wish is taken care of.
/ The Voyage Your vessel departs from Fort Lauderdale in January, sailing to Mexico, Belize, Honduras and Colombia. Traverse the Panama Canal before travelling down South America’s western coast to Guayaquil, Lima and Pisco. The Chilean fjords are next, before hugging the coast of Argentina, then it’s down to the lively festivities of Carnival in Rio. Namibia’s remarkable coastline drifts into view via St Helena, one of the planet’s most remote islands, before the thrill of Africa begins. Journey through South Africa, Tanzania and Kenya, and on to the powdery white sands of the Seychelles and the Maldives. Prepare for the exotic in Sri Lanka, India, Egypt and Jordan, before exploring the Italian coastal towns and vibrant Barcelona in Spain. / Luxe overland adventures No stranger to creating some of the most exclusive bucket-list experiences all around the globe, Abercrombie & Kent will offer five ultra-luxe overland excursions. Delve into the wonderous Galápagos Islands as you snorkel and kayak among pristine coral reefs. Trace the
World of choice
Clockwise, from top: Crystal Serenity’s pool and fine dining; stops include Tanzania and Rio.
footsteps of the Inca Emperors through cloud forests and ruins at Machu Picchu. Come face to face with nature, raw and wild, in the Serengeti. Step back in time in Egypt, and spot big cats on the prowl in India. / Your home on the sea Crystal Serenity is a small ship and can nuzzle into narrower docks. She flaunts an industryleading space-to-guest ratio, with only 740 passengers and nearly one staff member per guest. Expansive suites and rooms have sweeping ocean views, marble-lined bathrooms, a separate living area and a walk-in wardrobe, not to mention a private butler. / Geoffrey Kent set to join Geoffrey Kent, founder of Abercrombie & Kent and a luminary in the travel industry, will join the trip for a fascinating segment of the cruise. His presence will be an undeniable highlight, as guests gain insights from his unique experiences and captivating travel stories. CT For more information, visit crystalcruises.com.
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JOIN US ON OUR REIMAGINED SHIPS FOR A VOYAGE OF A LIFETIME DAYS ARE SPENT IMMERSED IN THE WORLD’S MOST BREATHTAKING DESTINATIONS, WHILE EVENINGS ARE ELEGANT AFFAIRS FILLED WITH FINE-DINING, ENTERTAINMENT, AND CAPTIVATING COMPANY. STEP ABOARD AND BE WARMLY WELCOMED INTO A WORLD OF COMFORT AND SOPHISTICATION. FOR RESERVATIONS OR INFORMATION, CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR, VISIT CRYSTALCRUISES.COM OR CALL 1300-503-640. PART OF ABERCROMBIE & KENT TRAVEL GROUP.
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Upfront
Star attraction
Michelin-starred chef Michel Roux ( below) is revamping Cunard’s dining.
Food C fit for a Queen A Michelin-starred chef is set to make Queen Anne a foodies’ delight, writes Bernadette Chua.
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unard’s newest ship, Queen Anne, will be named on the Mersey waterfront at Liverpool in June this year. And she’s the first ship from the line in 12 years. She will be christened on Monday, June 3, during a celebratory lap-of-honour voyage around the British Isles. The ceremony will be hosted by British pop star Matt Willis and his television-presenter wife Emma. Late last year, Cunard revealed a new partnership with Michelin-starred chef Michel Roux, who has been charged with the revamp of the dining experience on board Queen Anne. He’s creating an exclusive gala menu for the Queens Grill and Princess Grill restaurants and also refreshing the menu for the Golden Lion, a staple on all Cunard ships. The pub will offer a new gastronomic twist.
Roux says, “It is an absolute privilege to be working with Cunard’s hugely talented and passionate culinary development chefs. “For me, there is no better recipe than blending high-quality ingredients with elegant execution to create unforgettable experiences for diners, and I am incredibly excited to showcase our elevated, reimagined pub classics to Cunard guests very soon.” Dining on Queen Anne will feature four new restaurants: Aji Wa, Aranya, Sir Samuels and Tramonto. Aji Wa will serve seasonal Japanese cuisine. Sir Samuels restaurant will offer premium steak and seafood, while Aranya is set to be a multi-sensory Indian cuisine experience. Tramonto, meanwhile, will have Mediterranean-inspired alfresco dining. CT
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Introducing
Sun Princess
®
Sun Princess is our largest-ever ship and she will accommodate 4,300 guests and boasts stunning views, innovative entertainment venues, multi-storey dining rooms and next level stateroom accommodations. Sun Princess will sail an inaugural season of Mediterranean cruises from early 2024 followed by Western and Eastern Caribbean voyages.
BOOK NOW | Visit your travel agent | 1300 159 654 | princess.com Scan to view full details or visit princess.com/sunprincess
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Collaboration OCEANIA CRUISES
FOOD (& DRINK) of THE GODS
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You can eat like a queen, lunch like a princess and cook like a chef on Oceania Cruises, writes Teresa Ooi.
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alling all food aficionados: if you relish the opportunity to sample heavenly dishes, then look no further than Oceania Cruises’ first-ever Culinary Luminaries’ Cruise, on board Marina in October 2024. You will learn from the very best with their expert insights and tips, as well as cooking demonstrations. Oceania Cruises – the world’s leading culinary cruise line – has engaged two Master Chefs of France, Alexis Quaretti and Eric Barale, to guide lovers of great food on the finer points of cooking – and, when it is all done and dusted, guests can taste the fruits of their labour. You can immerse yourself in the culinary arts from the moment Marina sets sail from Valletta, Malta on October 16, exploring and experiencing the local cuisine on shore when the ship calls at ports in Croatia, Greece and Italy. “Oceania Cruises is a cruise line built by foodies, run by foodies, for foodies,” says Frank A. Del Rio, President of Oceania Cruises. “Since our launch 20 years ago, we’ve put food at the heart of everything we do, so hosting our firstever Culinary Luminaries’ Cruise is a natural evolution. “This special sailing gives us the chance to show our immense pride in being the only cruise line to have two of its chefs inducted into the prestigious echelons of the Maîtres Cuisiniers [Master Chefs] de France and the opportunity to share their wisdom, creative talent and fantastic culinary connections with our guests.” The 10-day cruise on the 1250-guest Marina has been specially designed so that guests can fully immerse themselves in foodie heaven while learning about the line’s gourmet heritage. Besides enjoying live cooking demonstrations from Chef Alexis, Oceania Cruises’ Senior Culinary Director, and Chef Eric, Vice-President of Culinary, guests can participate in onstage panel discussions with other culinary experts. Discerning travellers will also be able to purchase bespoke gastronomic experiences, including special culinary tours in local ports, expert-led wine tastings on board and exclusive private dining events.
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Culinary Masters
Clockwise, from main: Scallop gnocchi with lobster; Chef Eric Barale and Chef Alexis Quaretti; sea bass in puff pastry; Marina.
In addition, guests will attend the cruise line’s legendary signature gala seafood brunch, usually reserved for new ship launches, along with themed Chef’s Market Dinners in The Terrace Café, using ingredients bought from local markets, and get to dine on menus inspired by their destinations’ food, culture and history. After a day at sea, Marina will debut a spectacular menu of Mediterranean and Adriatic dishes to dazzle travellers when the ship sails into the beautiful, walled medieval city of Kotor in Montenegro. At the next port of call in Dubrovnik, Croatia, guests will enjoy a walk through the famous city to view the exquisite Venetian monuments. Visit the Franciscan monastery and explore the Rector’s Palace and cathedral. Take a stroll in lovely Cavtat, a mesmerising seaside resort that started life as a Greek and then Roman colony. You can also visit a local family in Konavle Valley village and be welcomed with brandy and figs while being serenaded by local musicians. In the Croatian city of Split, one of the loveliest spots in the Adriatic, look out for the Roman Emperor Diocletian’s retirement palace, which is now a World Heritage site in the heart of the city. Many relics from the Roman, Greek and Medieval periods can be found in the Archeological Museum in Split, the oldest museum in Croatia. When Marina calls at the Italian city of Bari, you can’t miss the 12th-century San Nicola Church and the majestic Swabian Castle. Enjoy the amazing cuisine at the Greek ports of Corfu and Katakolon. Make sure you visit the ornate Achilleion Palace filled with dramatic sculptures of the Greek hero, Achilles. Marina will then sail into the Italian town of Catania which was destroyed by an earthquake in the 17th century, then beautifully restored with churches, castles, amphitheatres and pretty palazzos. You will cruise on to the foodie haven of Naples, where you can spend a day exploring the amazing ruins of Pompeii before visiting sparkling Sorrento, or you can take a short boat ride to the gorgeous Isle of Capri. The cruise will end at the romantic ancient city of Rome, where you can view the Colosseum, St Peter’s Basilica and the Sistine Chapel’s breathtaking frescoes. CT 31
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Upfront
Forever cruising
If you love cruising, the idea of spending your twilight years aboard a ship circling the world sounds perfect. But, Peter Lynch asks, is it just a pipedream?
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t sounds like a dream retirement option: cruising the world aboard an ocean liner, enjoying twilight years with new friends, a fresh port every day, and great food and service. So much more exciting than the so-called “independent living” villages in the suburbs. But is it attainable? So far, unless you’re a billionaire, the answer is no. At least two companies claimed they could make retiring at sea – they call it “forever cruising” – attainable and affordable. The reaction was enormous. For fans of cruising, it’s hardly surprising. But both companies failed to sail, leaving the dreams of potential passengers who sold up homes and businesses in tatters. Victoria Cruises Line is the most recent. The company offered cabins on a luxury liner for a minimum of six months. It promised a round-theworld first trip of 29 months, with 886 days of cruising, 703 days in ports and 183 days at sea. There were pictures of two Holland America ships. But neither “Victoria Majestic” nor “Victoria Majesty” were bought or chartered by the company. The cruise has now been delayed by more than a year. And clients are trying to get their US$10,000 deposits back. After our story, the company wrote an open letter to our website Cruise Passenger explaining their business model just didn’t work. Cruise &Travel
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Current pricing for whole ownership of one of the proposed 530 residences ranges from US$1m to $8m, or starts at US$598K for 25 per cent ownership and US$550K for 50 per cent ownership. MV Narrative is on the “affordable” side of the residential cruise concepts. It will cater for digital nomads, families with children, retirees and cruise lovers. The retail value of the project is US$1.5 billion. Construction is partially financed by the future residents of the ship. There will be some institutional gap financing as well, a spokesperson for the line told our website, Cruise Passenger. “We are holding reservation deposits on approximately 50 per cent of the residences. About eight of those units are sold to Aussies,” said a spokesperson. Reservation deposits are US$10K and are fully refundable prior to signing a sales agreement. “We have begun distributing sales agreements and will soon be taking the first 20 per cent milestone payment, which is paid into a trust account,” the line says. “A trustee oversees when these payments can be forwarded to the shipyard as certain construction milestones are met.” The line said it had “a few cancellations due to life changes” but is consistently accepting new reservation deposits. The World caters exclusively to the top, cashed-up onepercenters – including Australia’s Ros Packer. One condition of purchase is that any potential co-owner has a net worth of at least $10 million. Launched in 2002, The World circumnavigates the globe every two to three years. Facilities include six restaurants, golf facilities, swimming pools, and a full-service spa, fitness centre, beauty salon, library, cinema and tennis court. But even it had growing pains. In 2003, residents pooled US$71m to buy the US$280m ship themselves. Passengers decide on their itinerary and visit the planet from the comfort of their own luxury “home”. That could be anything from a studio to an expansive five-bedroom penthouse. About a dozen cabins are resold for between $2 million and $15 million each year. Not that you would know it, as The World is very discreet, preferring not to be referenced in articles about cruise ships. She is currently cruising around South Africa. CT
“IN 2003, RESIDENTS POOLED US$71M TO BUY THE US$280M SHIP THEMSELVES.”
“The minimum booking for departure must be 80 per cent. We can only sign a charter contract for any vessel if this level is reached, as charter fees are payable from the date of contract signature. This is a pretty high amount if you are informed monthly, so we do not sail,” wrote a representative of the company. Victoria Cruises Line continues to solicit deposits and is believed to have collected in excess of US$3 million so far. Last year, Miray’s Life at Sea residential cruise concept also hit the rocks. But other residential cruises still appear to be on track. Storylines first launched a residential ship concept in 2016. The proposed model has since changed from refurbishing an older vessel to building its own vessel, MV Narrative. Buyers, including some Australians, expect amenities such as hydroponic farms, an anti-ageing clinic, 20 dining venues, bars and even a brewery. MV Narrative was to launch in 2023. But Covid, construction delays at the Brodosplit shipyard in Croatia, plus the Russia-Ukraine war, now mean a December 2026 launch. Cruise&Travel
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oyal Caribbean International has been delivering the ultimate family holiday for more than half a century. And as each year passes Royal Caribbean constantly strives to push the boundaries with new feats at sea. With each successive class of ship, it has been able to offer a new architectural marvel that features the latest technology and guest experiences. That includes attractions for everyone, from the tiniest of tots to the grandest of pops, and everyone in between. This year is shaping up to be a ground-breaking one for Royal Caribbean with the launch of Icon of the Seas, now sailing from Miami. The ship features eight distinct neighbourhoods, including the largest waterpark at sea, Thrill Island, plus seven pools and more than 40 dining options. Also debuting in July 2024 is Utopia of the Seas, the first of the game-changing Oasis Class vessels offering short getaways from Port Canaveral, Florida. Royal Caribbean is also committed to bringing world-class, innovative ships to Australia with Quantum of the Seas sailing from Brisbane and Ovation of the Seas from Sydney in summer 2024-2025. With modern accommodation, fresh pasta made in-house every day at Jamie’s Italian by Jamie Oliver and activities such as surfing or skydiving, bumper cars and more, a cruise on Royal is the ticket to an unforgettable family holiday. Guests can also slow things down and relax poolside at the complimentary adults-only Solarium or The Vitality Spa. With these signature Royal Caribbean experiences, combined with holiday favourites like indoor and outdoor pools, delicious food, live music, entertainment and great activities, you can make the most of your time away and check off the bulk of your mustdo list all in one trip. When you book with Royal Caribbean, you’re not just booking a cruise – you’re booking a memory-making holiday for the whole family. Everything you need to enjoy your holiday is included in the price of your ticket, making your experience truly amazing value. From the
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ROYAL CARIBBEAN
HIGHLIGHTS of the SEAS From the tiniest of tots to the grandest of pops, Royal Caribbean has a holiday for the entire family, writes Grant Jones.
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Making memories
Clockwise, from top left: Ovation of the Seas; Splashaway Bay; the main dining room; a Loft Suite; fun on the iFly.
stateroom to the variety of dining options to suit the fussiest of palates, onboard entertainment, access to pools, hot tubs and other amenities and activities. Also included in your cruise fare is Royal Caribbean’s Adventure Ocean Youth Program for Aquanauts (aged 3-5), Explorers (6-8), Voyagers (9-11) and hosted teen programs (for ages 12-14 and 15-17). Royal Caribbean sails to more than 240 destinations worldwide in more than 60 countries, including Royal Caribbean’s private island destination in The Bahamas, Perfect Day at CocoCay. Closer to home, trek the rugged terrain of the Land of the Long White Cloud, or venture around the coasts of Australia discovering beauty rich and rare on Ovation of the Seas, sailing from Sydney. Quantum of the Seas, the most innovative ship to sail from Brisbane, is a gateway to the postcard-perfect islands of the South Pacific. Royal Caribbean’s staterooms and suites have been designed with every type of guest in mind. From families and couples to groups of friends and solo Cruise&Travel
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travellers, the options are almost endless, and the comfort is always guaranteed. Plus, with daily turndown service and 24/7 room service, guests will be well taken care of. Wake up to a different view every day in a balcony stateroom that sleeps two to four people. You can even book a connecting room for extra space so there’s room for you and the whole crew. For the ultimate indulgence, treat yourself to Royal Caribbean’s Suite Class, which includes a range of rooms from junior suites up to two-storey loft suites. Suite-class guests can also enjoy a range of luxury inclusions such as access to the suite-only restaurant Coastal Kitchen, priority boarding and more. You’ll find everything has been carefully considered with you in mind – all you have to do is kick back and enjoy your holiday. CT
Highlights • There are so many family-
friendly ways to play and chill on board Ovation of the Seas and Quantum of the Seas, from surf to sky. Top adrenaline experiences include skydiving with Ripcord by iFly or catching a wave on the FlowRider surf simulator. Kids – big and small – can head to SeaPlex, the largest indoor activity complex at sea. You can also choose to sit back, relax and enjoy some me time at the Vitality Spa or poolside in the adults-only solarium. Then, refuel at one of the more than 20 restaurants, bars and lounges and finish the night with some showstopping entertainment.
Book today
• For a limited time only, Royal
Caribbean is offering up to 30% off* every guest. Plus, kids can sail from only $59* per day! Visit royalcaribbean.com.au today to find out more and start planning your dream holiday. *T&Cs apply.
royalcaribbean.com.au
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Upfront
APT PARTNERS with SEABOURN
• One of Australia’s largest tour operators, APT, has announced it will charter expedition vessels from American luxury line Seabourn to sail the Kimberley and around the world. The move follows APT’s decision to sell its ship in the Kimberley, Caledonian Sky. The group is also ending its three-decade-long partnership with AmaWaterways next year in favour of establishing its own new fleet of river ships. APT Travel Group CEO David Cox says, “It’s been a tough three or four years and … we have been quietly building. Coming back, we knew there was massive pent-up demand. These ships are outstanding, and we’re delighted that we’ll be taking charters of the expedition ships in the Kimberley, in Antarctica and the Arctic. But we’ll also be taking charters in the Mediterranean and Alaska.”
/ Raffles to open three
new properties
L
Highflier
uxury hotel group Raffles is expanding its footprint to India and Bahrain, and opening a second property in Singapore. The original Raffles first opened its doors in 1887 and Raffles Singapore Sentosa is set to expand on the group’s legacy. The 62-villa resort, which spans more than 9 hectares of gardens, overlooks Tanjong Beach on the southern tip of Sentosa Island. The recently
opened Raffles Al Areen Palace Bahrain is the country’s first and only all-villa property yet. There are 78 secluded private pool villas each having from one to three bedrooms. A unique hotel experience is to attend a workshop hosted by the palace’s resident botanist. You will learn about organic gardening, healing herbs and picking dates. Raffles Jaipur offers guests an intimate collection of just 50 suites with private pools and Jacuzzis. There’s also a holistic health program designed by India’s foremost wellness masters.
• Aman has unveiled five ultra-luxury private-jet tours, including ‘The Grandest Tour: Tokyo to Greece’ which runs for 21 nights. A private jet will whisk away 16 guests to the Philippines, Bali, Rajasthan and Turkey, before culminating at a Greek resort by the Aegean Sea. Meanwhile, the Aman Japan Culinary Journey is all about food. Guests stay at Aman’s Japanese properties and the food exploration is via either bullet train or helicopter. 36
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TURKISH delighted
• Turkish Airlines began its long-awaited services to Australia on March 1. The carrier is operating 16-hour flights from Istanbul to Melbourne via Singapore three times a week, and has been approved to fly up to 35 services a week to Australia’s key airports from 2025.
/ Guess who’s coming to dinner?
B
arging expert European Waterways is rolling out new insider experiences for guests looking for something a little different on shore. Guests cruising on board La Bella Vita in Venice can have dinner with a countess at the 17th-century estate of Villa Ca’Zen. If you’re sailing on La Belle Epoque in Burgundy, you can dine with a baroness at the Chateau de Ricey-Bas. On France’s oldest canal, the Canal de Briare, guests explore the studio home
of 19th-century artist Rosa Bonheur and enjoy lunch in her salon, surrounded by many of her paintings and personal artifacts. And if truffles tickle your fancy, go hunting with the truffle dogs in the hills of Argeliers in the Minervois wine region in the south of France and find your own “black gold”.
Explora EXPLORA •Journeys has IN 2024 unveiled new
itineraries in the Mediterranean and Hawaii for 2024. Explora I will be sailing the US Pacific Coast, while Explora II will explore the Mediterranean during summer and autumn. In the Mediterranean, Explora offers seven-, 14- and 21-night itineraries, visiting ports such as Mykonos, Ibiza, Venice, Istanbul and Athens, along with smaller ports such as Rovinj in Croatia, St Tropez in France, Porto Cervo and Portofino in Italy, Corsica in France, and Marmaris in Turkey. 37
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Collaboration NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE
Choose your own adventure
Norwegian Cruise Line, the award-winning cruise line that offers the best value at sea, is a game changer in the industry. Teresa Ooi finds the best itineraries for you.
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hen you board a Norwegian Cruise Line® (NCL) ship, not only do you enjoy a Free Beverage Package with premium spirits and cocktails, but you’re also entitled to NCL’s Free Specialty Dining Package, Free Shore Excursions Credit in every port and a Free WiFi package. Going on a cruise onboard one of NCL’s fleet of 19 ships is very much like taking a land-based holiday without all the transfers and connecting flights. All guests have the freedom to decide how to enjoy themselves and what to do from one day to the next. You can choose to spend your time pampering yourself in the ship’s gorgeous Mandara Spa® or discovering waterfalls onshore. You can tour the Old Quarter of Cadiz, Spain in the morning and drive a race car on NCL’s racetracks at sea in the afternoon. The choice is yours. When you cruise with NCL, you have the total freedom to decide what you want to do today and how you will experience a different tomorrow. No wonder NCL is known as the pioneer of Freestyle Cruising.
/ EUROPE
You are spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing where to cruise with NCL. There’s a myriad of experiences, ranging from browsing gorgeous boutiques in Florence to sunset strolls 38
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in Santorini, canal tours in Brugge and dining on Inuit cuisine in Qaqortoq, Greenland. The line has 12 ships, including the recently launched Norwegian Prima and Norwegian Viva, sailing in Europe in 2024-25, visiting over 160 European ports. There are over 350 port-rich itineraries available, which means you’ll be sure to find an itinerary that suits you. Experience the best of each destination as you wake up in a new port nearly every day. On many sailings, the ship often stays overnight or departs late, which means you can fully immerse yourself in the city’s culture and nightlife. If you have always yearned to explore the captivating Greek Islands of Santorini, Rhodes and Mykonos, then NCL’s seven-day itinerary onboard Norwegian Viva is the one for you. The holiday begins with an overnight stay in Istanbul giving you plenty of time to explore the colourful Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and the bustling Grand Bazaar where you can buy anything from the best pistachio-filled Turkish delight to a handmade, soft deer-skin leather jacket. Just be sure to haggle. You will board the ship at Athens, the oldest city in Europe and home to the Acropolis. Regarded as the cradle of civilisation, you will be blown away by Athens’ extraordinary art, culture and cuisine, and its archaeological artefacts. You’ll also be enchanted when Norwegian Viva arrives at the Cruise &Travel
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A smorgasbord of experiences
Clockwise, from left: Infinity Beach, Norwegian Viva; surfing Hawaii; Florence; biking in Holland; Skógafoss, Iceland; Norwegian Cruise Line.
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Collaboration
“All guests have the freedom to decide how to enjoy themselves and what to do from one day to the next.” island of Mykonos with its whitewashed houses, blue-domed churches and giant windmills. NCL also has an unforgettable 11-day Northern Europe cruise onboard Norwegian Prima to Iceland, Norway and Belgium exploring the region’s mythological lore and fascinating history. You’ll take in Brugge’s enchanting castles, the guild buildings of the Golden Age that line Amsterdam’s Amstel River, and the charming farms and villages of Geiranger, Norway. In the city of Bergen, you will see how it is neatly nestled between seven mountains, seven fjords and the North Sea. You will be struck by Norway’s fishing capital, Ålesund, one of the north’s most beautiful towns and renowned for its Jugend-style architecture and art nouveau style. Built on islands extending to the sea, the city offers spectacular views of fjords and the Sunnmøre Alps. In Iceland, you’ll kayak below majestic seabirds through the fjords of Isafjordur and see the wildflower-carpeted lava fields and bubbling, geothermal pools at Thingvellir National Park. Feast on Nordic specialties like smoked lamb, fresh fish and an Icelandic fried pastry.
/ HAWAII
With its world-famous sunsets, lush landscapes and beaches, Hawaii is one of the hottest holiday destinations for Australians. For many years, NCL has offered its popular 7-day island-hopping cruise on Pride of America which explores a new island every day. From the fragrant greenery of
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Ships’ spoils
Clockwise, from above: Spacious accommodation; Norwegian Prima Racetrack; Mandara Spa®.
Kaua’i to the dramatic volcanoes and spectacular surfing beaches of Oahu, Australians love the relaxed, island-living culture of Hawaiians. The NCL cruise starts in Honolulu, surrounded by the majestic Koolau mountains, where you can climb to the top of Diamond Head, take a romantic sunset stroll on Waikiki Beach and visit Pearl Harbor. The next day, Pride of America will sail to Kahului in Maui, the second most popular island in Hawaii. It is a magical island and is highly admired by travellers for its natural beauty and culture. Next, cruise to the port of Hilo, which is like visiting one giant greenhouse filled with spectacular tropical flowers. The buildings are steeped in Hawaii’s unique architecture and just 48 kilometres away is the active Kilauea Volcano in the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. When the ship visits Kona, its crystal-clear waters will entice many to snorkel in waters rich in marine and sea life or you can go kayaking. Those who are keen fishermen can easily head to deeper waters for some deep-sea fishing. Your next stop is Nāwiliwili, named after the Wiliwili tree. It is known as the Garden Island and recognised as Hawaii’s most beautiful island from the cool rainforests of Haena to the luau grass skirt, popularly used in the Luau Hula Skirt dance. Hawaii, known as a happy island, resonates with Australians and NCL’s 7-day itinerary has traditionally been popular among those looking for sea, sun, surf, sunsets and Aloha. While it is commonly used as a greeting, “Aloha” is a Hawaiian word for love, affection and peace. CT To find out more, contact your travel agent or visit ncl.com.
Cruise &Travel
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In it for THE LONG HAUL
• Ponant has released a series of back-to-back combined itineraries for Europe in 2025. Designed for Australian and New Zealand cruisers, the voyages include a 15-night Antalya to Venice which visits Turkey, Greece, Croatia, Slovenia and Italy. The longest voyage is a 29-night Lisbon to Antalya cruise aboard L’Austral. The ship visits seven countries cruising from Portugal to Morocco, Spain, Italy, Malta, Greece and Turkey. Highlights include visits to World Heritage sites such as the Belém Tower in Lisbon, Valencia’s the Silk Exchange and Antoni Gaudí’s masterpieces in Barcelona.
Delightful DORCHESTER • The Lana has opened in Dubai, making it the first property from the Dorchester Collection in 10 years. The hotel on Marasi Bay Marina is the first in the United Arab Emirates to boast a Dior Spa. The Lana has five Signature Suites and for those wanting pure opulence, the Marina Royal Suite features a balcony running along the length of the building with sweeping views of Burj Khalifa. There are eight restaurants, four developed in collaboration with
famed Michelin-starred chefs Jean Imbert, Martín Berasategui and pastry chef Angelo Musa. Chef Jean, who also leads the culinary team at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris, has developed Riviera, a modern Mediterranean restaurant. Chef Martín, who has collected 12 Michelin stars, has created Jara, the first restaurant of its kind in Dubai to serve Basque cuisine.
/ A new dawn
T
he new Sun Princess is an innovation for the “Love Boat” brand, which first set sail more than half a century ago. This isn’t just the largest ship Princess has ever built, she is also the first in its brand-new Sphere class fleet. She is the first LNG ship and is 21 per cent bigger than any of her Royal fleet sisters, with 17 per cent greater capacity for guests (4300 in total). There’s 2157 rooms spread out over 21 decks which are more than 345 metres in length. Sun Princess aims to provide something for every cruiser. For families, there’s the brand-new FireFly kids club and dining options will total a whopping 30 venues across the ship, with familiar favourites Sabatini’s, the Crown Grill and more. And for adventure lovers, Park19 is where it’s at for slides and rides, and encompasses three decks. Cruise&Travel
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Collaboration The new 15-day ‘Discover the Best of the Croatian Coast’ presents an epic round-trip voyage from Venice (or Dubrovnik), allowing extra time for idyllic island days, wondrous beaches and historic splendours. Trogir and its well-preserved Renaissance architecture and Slovenia’s 13th-century town of Piran are notable additions.
EMERALD CRUISES
Cruise the dazzling
ADRIATIC
P
Set sail for an unforgettable Adriatic voyage on board Emerald Cruises’ luxury yachts.
ositioned between the Italian and Balkan peninsulas above the Mediterranean Sea, the Adriatic Coast has enchanted sea lovers for centuries and today, presents a spectacular cruise destination best explored by yacht. Southern Europe’s Adriatic bewitches with crystalline azure waters and a rugged coastline peppered with rocky inclines, pebbly beaches and quaint fishing ports. This alluring sea also boasts 1300 or so islands, many of which are found off the Croatian coastline – the ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’. And as a cultural crossroads for millennia, Croatia’s sparkling shores heave with evocative towns and cities that reveal historic and architectural heritage from bygone eras.
/ Style meets Adriatic adventures What better way to discover the Adriatic’s treasures than on board Emerald Cruises’ award-winning yachts, Emerald Azzurra and Emerald Sakara? Seamlessly blending modern exploration and contemporary design with luxury travel, these stylish yachts maximise the glorious climate and views, and access smaller ports larger vessels can’t reach. And Emerald Cruises fabulous small-ship cruising lifestyle, with only 100 guests on board, means you’ll relish the high levels of personal attention, exceptional staff-to-guest ratios and ample space to unwind.
several focus on the Croatian coastline, including the popular 8-day ‘Croatian Coast & the Best of the Adriatic’. Sail from Italy’s legendary ‘City of Canals’, Venice, via the traditional St Mark’s Square passage, which is exclusive to a few smaller-sized vessels. Cruising the glimmering Croatian coast, stop at sundrenched islands and centuries-old destinations that are home to enthralling Roman, medieval and Venetian-era legacies and World Heritagelisted wonders. Highlights include Split, boasting one of the world’s finest examples of Roman architecture, and Hvar Island, Croatia’s glamorous answer to St Tropez. Sailing the iconic Dalmatian Coast, your voyage concludes in crowd favourite Dubrovnik, renowned for its stunningly preserved medieval Old Town.
/ Take the plunge Emerald Azzurra’s and Emerald Sakara’s inclusions enhance your Adriatic experience. Onshore excursions are available practically daily, hand-picked EmeraldPLUS and EmeraldACTIVE experiences highlight destination gems and Gocycle electric bicycles are perfect for independently exploring cobblestone backstreets and waterfront seafood eateries. When the anchor drops into enticingly warm waters, the innovative Marina Platform creates an unparalleled watersports playground, with aquatic toys like kayaks and paddleboards, and extending to Seabobs. For more sedate pursuits, relax on a floating mat or watch the sunset from the Sky Deck’s spa pool. Other generous inclusions cover all meals, onboard and onshore gratuities, complimentary drinks and airport transfers. CT Book your dream 2025 Adriatic voyage now. Prices start from $7595 per person for an 8-day luxury Croatian Coast & Adriatic cruise. For more information, visit emeraldcruises.com.au or call 1300 286 110.
Croatia is calling Clockwise, from above: Emerald Sakara; the ship’s Marina Platform; port of Dubrovnik.
/ An unforgettable yacht cruise Among Emerald Cruises’ well-established Mediterranean and Adriatic Sea itineraries, 42
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Cruise &Travel
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CRUISE WITH ONLY
100
GUESTS
NEW LUXURY YACHT CRUISING Emerald Cruises luxury yachts, with only 100 guests, offer an intimate cruising experience with access to ports only small vessels can reach. Enjoy world-class services, included excursions, all meals and complimentary drinks.
8 Day Croatian Coast & Best of the Adriatic
15 Day Discover Eastern Mediterranean
15 Day Discover the Mediterranean Venice
Rovinj
CROATIA
CROATIA
Dubrovnik
Venice
7
Šibenik Trogir
Rovinj
Vis
ITALY
MONTENEGRO Kotor
Adriatic Sea
CROATIA
14
ALBANIA
Dubrovnik MONTENEGRO Hvar Korčula Kotor
Sarandë
Adriatic Sea
14
Corfu
ALBANIA
Šibenik
GREECE
Vis
ITALY
Dubrovnik
Hvar
Corfu
Lefkada
E02D
7,595ppt/s*
Adriatic Sea
1,500
per person*
12,740ppt/s*
From $
Itea
5,000
SAVE $ up to
TURKEY
Athens (Piraeus)
Kuşadası Mykonos
Paros
Corinth Canal (Piraeus)
2D01
SAVE $ up to
Itea
Delos
Athens
Mediterranean Sea
Aegean Sea
Corinth Canal
Parga
Korčula
From $
Lefkada
Sarandë
Trogir
GREECE Parga
per person*
Patmos
Kos
Mediterranean Sea
Santorini
2D08
12,190ppt/s*
From $
5,000
SAVE $ up to
per person*
M E D I T E R R A N E A N • N E W S E YC H E L L E S & E A S T A F R I C A • C A R I B B E A N
Visit emeraldcruises.com.au, call 1300 286 110 or contact your travel advisor *Conditions apply. For FULL conditions refer to emeraldcruises.com.au or brochure. All prices based on per person twin share, cruise only in D Category Stateroom. Valid on new bookings only. E02D based on 23/08/25 departure. 2D08 based on 12/07/25 departure. 2D01 based on 05/07/25 departure. Prices, dates, availability subject to change and correct as of 10/01/24. Emerald Cruises (a division of Scenic Tours Pty Ltd). Booking Code: EVMA202
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Oceans 48 Icon of the Seas | 54 Seven Seas Grandeur | 72 Caledonian Sky
page
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Silver Nova
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Trends
O
ROCKING the BOAT
The luxury cruise space is about to get more crowded with the addition of high-end hotel brands launching sleek new yachts, writes Sue Bryant.
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ver the past decade, we’ve seen luxury cruise lines such as Silversea, Regent and Seabourn edging towards bigger and bigger ships. At the same time, a new cruising style has emerged: superyachts that give you the yachting lifestyle without the cost of chartering your own vessel. Scenic’s 228-passenger Eclipse was one of a kind when it launched in 2019, then sister line Emerald’s first yacht, Azzurra, offered a similar lotus-eating concept at a lower price point. Now, small luxurious yachts are enjoying a moment in the sun. Last year saw the arrival of Scenic Eclipse II and Emerald Sakara. Ponant gave its venerable sailing yacht, Le Ponant, a complete refit in 2022, attaining Relais & Chateaux accreditation and raising the company’s profile in Australia with a 2023 Kimberley season. SeaDream Yacht Club, the veteran of luxury-yacht cruising, has also given its two tiny ships a US$10m facelift. The biggest ripples, arguably, are being caused by luxury hotel groups taking to the sea. The RitzCarlton Yacht Collection got off to a rocky start; its first ship, Evrima, was delayed eight times due to Covid and shipyard issues. Now, however, a second, bigger ship, Ilma, is launching in September, followed by a third, Luminara, in 2025. Four Seasons is gearing up for the launch of its first yacht in 2025. Ultra-luxury group Aman has signed a contract with Italy’s T. Mariotti shipyard to construct a yacht for Aman at Sea, launching in 2027. Meanwhile venerable brand Orient Express has announced the 2026 launch of Silenseas, a 53-suite sailing yacht blending the golden age of sea travel with advanced technology.
W
hat’s the appeal? First, size and snobbery, as we crave personal space in a post-pandemic world, and access to exclusive ports. “Our guests enjoy the comfort of a 110-metre yacht with the ability to access the small ports,” says Judith Hainke, Emerald’s senior marketing manager. SeaDream’s CEO Atle Brynestad agrees: “Size matters more than ever in the cruise industry. All ships are getting bigger and supersizing is also a trend within the luxury segment. You will never get the same experience or service on a ship with 1000, 500 or even 300 guests as you will get on a 100-guest yacht. Some guests come to us from other luxury lines because they feel ships are getting too big, and prefer smaller, more personalised experiences.” For the new hotel-group yachts, it’s a matter of bringing the look and service of high-end resorts to the sea – and no expense is being spared. Four Cruise &Travel
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Grand designs
Clockwise, from left: Orient Express’s Silenseas; Four Seasons’ four-storey penthouse; the RitzCarlton’s Evrima; a zen garden for Aman resorts’ first yacht.
Seasons’ first 190-passenger yacht takes inspiration in its lines from Aristotle Onassis’s legendary Christina O, still regarded as one of the most exquisite yachts at sea. It also comes with plenty of “firsts”, not least two watersports marinas and 12 suites for guests bringing their own staff, such as a PA, minder or nanny. The Funnel Suite will span four levels, offering more than 898 square metres of space, including a private wading pool and its own spa. As a point of reference, the lavish Regent Suite on the new Seven Seas Grandeur, which also has its own mini-pool and spa, is 412.8 square metres. “We are creating a unique hybrid vessel that will be unlike anything out there in the market,” says Thatcher Brown, Four Seasons Yachts’ chief commercial officer. “From its design and construction to the itinerary development to the amenities and services, we are redefining luxury at sea. More specifically, we’re spending US$4.3 million per stateroom against an industry average of approximately US$850,000 per stateroom. The yacht will have more space per guest than any vessel that exists; in fact, it will offer nearly 50 per cent more living space than our nearest competitor.” Details of the unnamed new Aman yacht are scant so far, but we’ve been told to expect all-suite, all-balcony accommodation, an array of restaurants, a spa with a Japanese garden and a marina platform, the Beach Club. And two helipads. What’s really fuelling this growth in yachting isn’t people jumping ship from Silversea or Seabourn, but an enormous and mostly untapped market of well-heeled travellers who usually choose luxury resorts. Reassured by the fact they’re going to get the same level of service as they would in, say, a land-based RitzCarlton hotel, or any of the luxury brands in the Marriott Cruise&Travel
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empire, they’re suddenly yachting-curious. They’re also prepared to pay; a week on Evrima can cost almost double what it does on Seabourn. One bonus in the case of The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection is that guests can put their Marriott Bonvoy points towards a cruise. “We estimate that over 75 per cent of our bookings include a Marriott Bonvoy member sailing with us,” says Kristian Anderson, senior vice president, global sales at The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection. And why stop with a Ritz-Carlton yacht when the Marriott portfolio includes other luxury names such as St. Regis and W? Another advantage for luxury-hotel groups is their ready-made infrastructure of luxury resorts. There are, for example, five Ritz-Carlton hotels within easy reach of Fort Lauderdale alone, which makes for a seamless pre-cruise experience for guests. Thatcher Brown adds: “Guests do not have to choose one leisure experience over the other, as there is an organic, genuine connection that exists between Four Seasons land and sea journeys. A voyage on the yacht can begin and/or end with a Four Seasons hotel ... In some cases, the yacht will call on a port that is proximate to a Four Seasons hotel, in which case guests can visit the hotel as part of their shore visit.”
B
ut where are Australians travelling? These luxury yachts understandably tend to focus on big-hitting destinations of the Caribbean and the Mediterranean. Unsurprisingly, Europe is the winner. “Australians have shown a strong preference for our voyages in the Mediterranean, particularly enjoying Spain and the Greek Isles,” says Anderson. “Additionally, our new northern Europe itineraries have gained significant interest, with a particular focus on exploring UK heritage venues.” For Emerald Cruises, Hainke says, the Mediterranean is ever popular. Croatia, Greece and Turkey, Italy and France are the itineraries of choice for 2024, with a new destination, the Seychelles, “exceeding expectations”. Australians looking for the superyacht experience but not the long flight now have the brand-new Scenic Eclipse II on the doorstep, arriving in April for a Kimberley season and excitingly, Antarctica in winter from Hobart and Dunedin in New Zealand. Four Seasons’ Brown is bullish about the Australian market. “As a source market for regional and long-haul guests, Australia is extremely valued and important. Beyond this, Australia has the highest penetration of ocean cruisers in the world, according to CLIA. With this in mind, we expect interest in Four Seasons Yachts to be robust.” CT
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Voyage
LOUD& PROUD
Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas is the biggest and boldest new ship at sea. Jane Archer takes a tour around the mammoth vessel sailing the Caribbean.
The layer cake
Icon of the Seas lights it up. Right: Fun on the slides.
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Voyage
I
’m in ‘Central Park’, night has fallen, there’s a Spanish guitar playing softly in the background and a glass of something sparkling in my hand. It’s pure bliss and proves that even on Icon of the Seas, aka the world’s cruise biggest ship, you can find your own happy spot. Lucky me! I’m one of the first people to sail on this new Royal Caribbean International ship and in a word, it is incredible. As the line is at pains to point out, its size is merely a by-product of the company’s vision to build a vessel that offers the ultimate holiday for all ages and tastes – even folk like me who now and then want to escape the lively, and often noisy, Caribbean vibe that follows you around like a loyal dog. Icon is certainly big. There are 20 decks, capacity for up to 7600 passengers and it’s so long that if you stood it on end, it would peer down on the Sydney Tower. Put it another way: after two days of exploring the ship from end to end and top to bottom (no need to go to the gym on this ship), I was still finding a new bar here and a play area there. In my defence, there are more than 40 bars, cafes and places to eat, various clubs where kids and teens can escape mum and dad, and activities galore that go overboard (pun intended) on the superlatives. There’s the largest pool at sea (one of seven swimming spots on board), the biggest ice rink and the tallest drop slide. The latter, Frightening Bolt, is where you stand in a tube and on the count of three, or maybe four or five (lifeguards love messing with you), a trap door opens and whoosh. You get exceedingly wet. “I was water-boarded,” one woman spluttered as she emerged at the bottom.
myself now and then to remember I was on a cruise ship. That was especially true given my cabin faced inwards, overlooking Central Park, so I had no view of the sea and never knew if we were sailing or in port. Worse, I could see into the cabins on the other side of the park and they could see into mine. I prefer more privacy and also found the music from bands playing on deck and the jazz club below very intrusive. Happily, there are a crazy number of other cabin types to choose from. You can have a view over the ocean with or without a balcony, a room overlooking Surfside (of which more below), a cabin with no windows at all and some seriously swanky suites. With families in mind, 80 per cent of rooms hold three, four or five people. For those who want more space, the Ultimate Family Townhouse sleeps eight and is nearly 10 times the size of an inside family cabin. The catch? There is only one and it is sold out for 2024. Oh, and the eyewatering price tag of just over $120,000 for a week. All the waterslides are in Thrill Island, one of eight neighbourhoods on Icon that have their own vibe (there’s also Chill Island, The Hideaway for adults, Royal Promenade with shops, bars, cafes and restaurants, and so on) and make finding your way around the ship easier.
/ Make a splash
In all, six flumes twist and turn their way around the top of Icon. Others have you racing down on mats, pairing up with friends in inflatable rafts or making a splash – literally – after zooming high speed around a disorientating series of bends. I had to pinch
ROYAL CARIBBEAN ICON OF THE SEAS
Star attractions
From left to right: Adrenaline Peak; miso ramen at Izumi; the Chill Island hot tub.
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Expert tips
The thrills are at the back, leafy Central Park with real trees and shrubs is in the middle and if you happen upon a massive glass cupola, you’ve found the AquaDome up front. As a neat extra navigational aid, plaques outside the cabins show the room number, where you are on the ship and which way is front and which way is back. The Overlook in the AquaDome has great views out to sea and is wonderfully peaceful by day, but the dome comes alive after dark with Aqua Action, a show that brings together high divers and aerialists performing a pas de deux (and getting drenched by a curtain of water in the process).
/ Made for families
Royal Caribbean makes no secret of the fact that Icon is designed for families and is perfect for kids of all ages. A child-sitting service for babies and toddlers gives mums and dads some time off. The Surfside neighbourhood caters for kids aged up to six and has a carousel, a fun pool with water jets and eateries where mum and dad can refuel while keeping an eye on their offspring. For older children, add laser tag, ice skating, an escape room, supervised kids’ clubs and teen hangouts to the scream-a-long slides. The really adventurous ones (and probably their dads, too) can even test their mettle by walking over the side of the ship that ends with a … well, let’s just say it’s a surprise. Not that you need to have kids to have a good time on Icon. Sharing a floating resort with several thousand others might not be most people’s idea of luxury, but a week in the ship’s two-storey loft suite is quite a spoil. You’ll have a Royal Genie (butler to you and me) and exclusive access to a private restaurant, sundeck and pool. Cruise&Travel
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“I’M ONE OF THE FIRST PEOPLE TO SAIL ON THIS NEW ROYAL CARIBBEAN INTERNATIONAL SHIP AND IN A WORD, IT IS INCREDIBLE.”
• Favourite meal on board: The Hibachi in Izumi is lively, noisy and as much about the theatre as the food. Our Japanese chef juggled knives and eggs (he even extracted a yolk from the egg white and tossed it on his skillet without breaking it). The food was hot and fresh, straight off the grill. Mine was freshly made egg fried rice and a melt-in-the-mouth beef and chicken combo (there are seafood and tofu options). It costs US$69.99 ($106) but be aware that restaurant prices can change according to demand. • Insider tip: Beat the crowds by having breakfast at the Park Café. There isn’t as much choice as the Windjammer self-service (mostly fruit, eggs and bagels filled with whatever you fancy), but a table outside amid the greenery of Central Park is a perfect way to start the day. • What to expect: This is a party
ship and built with families in mind, so the vibe is lively, there are kids everywhere and loud music pretty much everywhere you go. If you need to escape, the Overlook at the front of the AquaDome by day and Central Park in the mornings and as night falls are gorgeous. The adults-only Hideaway has loungers and a spectacular infinity pool but the area is in the thick of the Thrill Island action so don’t expect peace and quiet.
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Voyage
ROYAL CARIBBEAN ICON OF THE SEAS
Taking it to the next level
Clockwise, from top: The top-end cabin, an Ultimate Family Townhouse; the burger in sports bar Playmakers; The Overlook Bar.
/ Plan ahead
You also have access to a lot more entertainment (live bands, an ice-skating show and an excellent production of The Wizard of Oz) than small ships can offer, and all of it for free, plus you can enjoy evenings out at upscale restaurants. That’s Chops Grille for steaks, Hooked for seafood and the Empire Supper Club for a new dining experience that pairs an eight-course menu of oysters, langoustine, Wagyu beef and sea bass with cocktails and a live three-piece band. All Icon’s specialty restaurants cost extra – to the three just mentioned, priced US$39, US$43 and US$200 ($59, $65, $303) respectively, add Giovanni’s and Izumi – and of course, serve the best cuisine, but if you’re watching the dollars there are plenty of included eateries and the food was way better than I expected given the numbers they are catering for. The main dining room was pretty average but the Mexican fare in El Loco Fresh and the chilli con carne in the Windjammer selfservice were very tasty. 52
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Royal Caribbean is keeping the number of passengers below 7000 until the summer as they bed the ship down but even with reduced capacity, trying to get a seat in El Loco was a challenge at lunchtime. When it’s full, staggering meal times will be a must unless you are into queuing. The company says it will monitor passenger flow over the coming months to minimise lines but they will be inevitable for the self-service, waterslides and to get off the ship and, even more so, to get back on, especially if four or five excursions arrive back at the same time. So far, it’s mainly Americans flocking to Icon, with just 10 per cent of bookings from international markets and business from Down Under “negligible”, according to Gavin Smith, Royal Caribbean’s managing director for Australia and New Zealand. He is confident the ship will create a “halo effect”, which will benefit other Royal Caribbean vessels and that long-term business for Icon will grow. “The mix [of passengers] and experiences this amazing ship offers will resonate with Australians,” he says.
/ The bottom line
Icon is sailing from Miami to St Maarten, Cozumel, St Thomas, St Kitts and Honduras in the Caribbean, and also calls into Perfect Day at CocoCay, Royal Caribbean’s private island in the Bahamas. Prices start from $3054 per person for seven nights on the Western Caribbean & Perfect Day itinerary. CT Cruise &Travel
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Gucci leathertrimmed baseball cap, $659.
Christian Louboutin Varsiboat suede loafers, $1458.
Kapital striped cottonjersey T-shirt, $299.
Fruity flavours
Trunk Show
Missoni mesh mini dress, $900.
Agua by Agua Bendita bouclé skirt, $1211.
Gucci floral silk-twill headband, $665.
Marni faux raffia tote, $908.
Alémais ramie shirt dress, $695.
Chloé bowembellished dress, $2950.
Eres lace-up striped swimsuit, $1345.
Bottega Veneta Terry slides, $930.
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Vilebrequin Moorise swim shorts, $451.
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Voyage
CAN A SHIP BE A WORK OF ART? Regent Seven Seas rarely does things by half. And its latest vessel, Seven Seas Grandeur, is no exception. Peter Lynch takes a short trip on a ship that claims perfection as its heritage.
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Voyage
“These are the top guests of the world. They’ve travelled everywhere.”
REGENT SEVEN SEAS GRANDEUR
My suite is classic Regent Seven Seas. Suite 776 has a copious balcony, a dressing room, a sitting room, and twin washbasins and a bath in the washroom. We’ve been told to pack black tie for the party, yet everything from my oversized suitcase vanishes into the drawers and cupboards. “These are the top guests of the world,” says Ruiz. “They’ve travelled everywhere, they’ve seen everything. How do we give them something different and make them feel special?” The launch of Grandeur coincides with an interesting departure for Regent, which has always had one eye on the fact that while cruising is popular, 95 per cent of travellers still stay in hotels and resorts. Instead of targeting other cruise lines, Regent wants to convince luxury hotel guests that they can get the same home comforts on its ships. The all-inclusive line, with everything from drinks to unlimited shore excursions as part of the package, sees a big opportunity to woo them now that room prices around the world have soared. It has launched an innovative new program of six voyages where each port of call features an overnight stay – allowing for deeper exploration of much-loved destinations. Some 26 special shoreside experiences have been designed to make each overnight call a memorable part of the journey. Destinations featured are the 56
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No pig in a poke
O
ur three-day journey on Seven Seas Grandeur took us to the Bahamas – but there was not enough time to take in this great cruising destination. One thing did stand out, however: one of the most bizarre shore excursions I’ve ever taken part in – swimming with pigs. Pigs might not be able to fly, but they can certainly hold their own in the water. They are smarter than the average dog and very social. Some 20 of us gathered in a circle on a beautiful beach. At the centre, were two guides holding boxes of skewers loaded with fruit. Each
Floating gallery
Clockwise, from above left: Glass bonsai “Tree of Life” at Pacific Rim; one of many works of art on board; the Fabergé egg; the Grandeur Suite’s living room.
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of us was given three. Suddenly, a dozen baby pigs and their mums were released from a pen into the water around us. They were soon inside our circle in a frenzy to reach their pineapple surprises. Cute and cuddly? Well, the jury is still out on that. But they were certainly friendly – although you needed to make sure your fingers were well away from the fruit. At the end of feeding, we were allowed to hold the piglets for pictures… in case our friends accused us of telling porkies about the encounter.
Mediterranean, Northern Europe and Asia. There are suite upgrades available, too. All of this comes as hotels invade Regent’s oceanic backyard. The Ritz-Carlton and Four Seasons are offering ultra-luxe yachts as a brand extension, though their prices make Regent look like a bargain. So, what’s on board? Well, everything you would expect from a five-star hotel… and a lot more besides. There is a theatre featuring live shows, a pool and jacuzzi, a nicely sized fitness centre, a Serene spa and a wellness deck where you can lie in the sun or take a dip in the pool. The spa features a sauna, steam room and ice room. Grandeur has eight dining venues and a culinary school. Some 130 new dishes have been created for this ship – and remember: dining is included. Compass Rose is the grand dame of dining on Regent ships, but French-inspired Chartreuse is a delight on Deck 10, and La Veranda on Deck 11 is a lovely outdoor eating space that turns into an Italian diner at night. 57
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The verdict
Seven Seas Grandeur is the sixth ship in what Regent describes as “the most luxurious fleet in the world”. Capacity: 746 passengers Decks: 10 Gross tonnage: 55,500 Who is it for? Well-travelled and well-heeled sophisticated guests who want all-included luxury. Art and food lovers will be well pleased with this ship. High: The ship’s collection of art and the new guided tour are unique – and better than many cultural shore excursions! Low: Even with 16 courses, the culinary Arts Kitchen was booked out. Be quick and book if you want to test your cooking skills.
REGENT SEVEN SEAS GRANDEUR
Prime 7, a classically delicious steakhouse, is on Deck 10. And, my personal favourite, Pacific Rim, is on Deck 5. Here, the Pan-Asian cuisine includes Thai coconut chicken soup, lobster laksa and miso black cod. Pacific Rim has another signature surprise courtesy of Ruiz: the most amazing “Tree of Life” sculpture with blossoms hand-made and hand-painted in glass depicting Japanese cherry blossoms. Its remarkable pink hue greets diners and the tree positively glows in the entrance while you dine. It’s just one of the 1600 pieces of art worth an estimated US$6 million (A$9.2 million) on board, curated by art director Sarah Hall Smith. Regent has created a digital art tour of the vessel complete with videos of living artists explaining their works. Passengers scan selected artworks using the app, connecting them with the artist, their creative process and the inspiration behind their work. It’s a surreal but rewarding experience to listen to and view like some European art gallery. And it’s a revelation. Step behind the wooden atrium stairs and discover a completely different perspective on this ascending big zipper which climaxes in a 12-metre tapestry by Walter Goldfarb entitled “The Enchanted Tree”. At the top of the atrium, is a chandelier in the form of tennis bracelets. And of course, the world’s first Fabergé egg at sea – a piece that pays homage to the ocean called A Journey in Jewels. Sarah Fabergé, great-granddaughter of the founder, is the ship’s godmother. But perhaps all of this shows that the real piece of art is the ship itself. Grandeur carries 746 guests served by 548 crew in 373 suites, among the highest space and staff-to-guest ratios in the industry. She was built using almost 140,000 kilograms of marble, and there are 503 chandeliers. She is a floating mansion and art gallery combined. It’s not hard to see why the line won a record three of our Readers’ Choice Awards last year – for luxury, service and wellness. Seven Seas Grandeur is currently sailing from Florida, but will head to Europe in April this year. For more information, visit rssc.com/ships/seven_seas_grandeur. CT 58
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When life is grand
From top; Dining at steakhouse Prime 7; the breath-taking chandelier in the atrium lobby; a Superior Suite.
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Manolo Blahnik Carlton loafers, $1764.
Celine Homme blazer, $5237.
Manolo Blahnik Capri clutch, $3155.
Art lovers’
Trunk Show Zimmermann Matchmaker mini dress, $1650.
Alaïa Le Coeur shoulder bag, $1640. Dries Van Noten glittered jersey trousers, $1861.
Alex Perry jumpsuit, $3207.60. Destree Richard top, $332. Destree Ivring skirt, $742.
Valentino Garavani Rockstud shoes, $1780.
Alighieri + Net Sustain The Skies Ablaze ring, $728.67.
Self-Portrait mini dress $862.80.
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Gucci twill blazer, $3785, and trousers, $1791.
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Voyage
Out of the blue
Silver Nova’s open-air Dusk Bar boasts panoramic 270-degree views.
Champagne Super Nova There is acres of space between the marvellous restaurants and luxurious suites on Silversea’s new Silver Nova, writes Sue Bryant.
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SILVERSEA SILVER NOVA
I
t’s early morning off the Croatian coast and I’m on deck, enjoying a green juice and a bowl of Greek yoghurt drizzled with honey. A perfect flat white coffee arrives. The Mediterranean sun filters through the slatted shades around The Marquee and in the distance, the sea glitters. There’s nobody about and I savour the silence and the space. Acres of space is a recurring theme on my cruise on Silversea’s new Silver Nova, the 12th ship in the luxury fleet and, with hybrid battery power, the most sustainable to date. The ship may carry 728 passengers, more than any other Silversea ship, but on board, there’s a blissful sense of uncrowded luxury. Silver Nova incorporates all the much-loved venues of her fleet mates – but looks and feels different. Why? Because of the much-hyped “asymmetrical design”. It’s only when you step onto the vast pool area on Deck 10 that this makes sense. Instead of being in the middle of the deck with loungers facing inwards, the long, U-shaped pool is set to one side, gazing out at the sea through a wall of glass. Loungers, too, face the sea. So you feel as though you’re at some luxurious beach club, where the shimmering Hockney blue of the pool merges into the sparkling ocean. There’s no upper deck hemming in the pool, either. Instead, there’s just a walkway on one side of Deck 11, which incorporates an oversized infinity whirlpool, The Cliff. Squashy loungers are dotted everywhere – in the sun, in the shade and in little private nooks. No sunbed bagging at dawn here; there’s space for everybody. Throughout the ship, there’s glass on the outside and sweeping views. In my veranda suite, all soothing shades
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of stone and pale gold, floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto a balcony with a glass balustrade. Double-height ceilings in the public areas, which flow seamlessly from one to the next, give a further illusion of light and space. I’m familiar with Silversea’s earlier ships and that’s probably why I keep getting lost on Nova, which has a completely different layout. There are no central lifts, for example. Instead, there are two banks of glass elevators, one on either side, so even riding in the lift is fun. The heart of the ship is the three-deck atrium, where a wall of glass floods the space with light. This will certainly come into its own in the northernhemisphere summer, when the ship sails in Alaska before heading south to Australia. The Shelter, a tiny champagne bar, is a new space on the lowest level, Deck 3, although it never seems very busy on my short cruise. On the next level, Deck 4, is the Arts Café, buzzing with guests nursing hangover coffees in the morning and gossiping over comfort carbs. On Deck 5, the elegant Dolce Vita Lounge works better on Nova than on the other ships, where it just seems too big. Some of the seats look down into the Atrium and as such, offer a prime location for peoplewatching. Silversea makes much of its S.A.L.T. concept, which means Sea and Land
Light and space
Clockwise, from above: Pool area on Deck 10; dine at Silver Note; one of many artworks on board; a Grand Suite; Silver Nova at sea.
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Expert say
• What should I pack? The dress code on Silver Nova is more relaxed than on the rest of the fleet, perhaps a nod to the Gen X and even millennial audiences who will love this ship. There’s no more strict formal night, just an Elegant Casual dress code and, once per cruise, Formal Optional. The latter means full evening-wear if you wish, or a minimum of a jacket for men. For women, it’s always easier, but cocktail dresses and silky palazzo pants are easily posh enough. Don’t hold back on the bling. • Favourite meal? Sometimes, simpler is better, which is why I love The Marquee. A porcini mushroom pizza with fior di latte and fresh basil, washed down with a crisp rosé, is exquisite. • Top tip? Check out the new suite categories at the aft end of the ship, overlooking the wake. The two Otium Suites are here, as well as the Master Suites, Premium Medallion Suites and a couple of Premium Veranda Suites, all with dreamy aft views.
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Taste. The idea is that you can try cuisine on board that reflects the area in which the ship is sailing, and continue the foodie theme with immersive shore excursions in port. These include visits to wineries, cookery classes in gorgeous Mediterranean locations, and tasting menus in celebrated restaurants. There are three S.A.L.T. venues. The S.A.L.T. Kitchen is one of the main restaurants, with two menus: a “Voyage Menu” that reflects the region in which the ship is sailing; and the daily changing “Terrain Menu”, which drills right down into the cuisine of the day’s port. In Venice, for example, we have cicchetti (Venetian antipasti), and sea bream with cuttlefish risotto, while the Voyage Menu includes delicious buffalo mozzarella and arancini.
The S.A.L.T. Bar, which offers regional wines and cocktails crafted from local spirits, is much bigger on Silver Nova than on her predecessor and is the go-to place for after-dinner drinking. The S.A.L.T. Lab, meanwhile, is a glossy cookery school that morphs into the S.A.L.T. Chef’s Table in the evenings.
T
here are three new venues that I immediately love on Silver Nova. The Dusk Bar on the port side of Deck 10, overlooking the wake, has echoes of the Ibiza-chic Sunset Bar on sister line Celebrity Cruises. A solo sax player entertains with moody jazz as the light fades behind the red-roofed Croatian town of Zadar. The library, too, is gorgeous, an almost secret, Harry Potter-esque space hidden behind a
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Voyage SILVERSEA SILVER NOVA
Drink and dine
Clockwise, from top: New outdoor dining venue The Marquee; the S.A.L.T. Lab for cooking demos; the S.A.L.T Bar for cocktails.
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There are plenty of other restaurants, all of them Silversea favourites. Atlantide is for fine international dining, with lobster and caviar on tap. La Terrazza is a tempting buffet for breakfast and lunch, with Italian classics served à la carte in the evenings. Be sure to ask for an outside table on a balmy night. Kaiseki offers Japanese, and La Dame, French haute cuisine. Both carry a supplement – and Silversea has rather audaciously made this bigger on Silver Nova than on its other ships; La Dame, for example, is a whopping US$160 ($245). If you love sushi, go to Kaiseki at lunchtime, when there’s no charge. Of 13 suite categories on Silver Nova, seven are new, the most covetable being the Otium Suites, with aft and side views, heavy door in the Observation Lounge. It’s dark and cocoonwraparound balcony and a private hot tub. I was in a deluxe like, the books displayed on backlit shelves and the customveranda suite which was exceptionally comfortable and, like all designed ceiling sparkling with pinprick “stars”. suites on board, came with butler service and, to my delight, a The Marquee, too, is a lovely idea. It’s an alfresco, seabathtub. I’m pleased, too, that there are no more mini plastic facing space on Deck 10 adorned with ornamental trees bottles of Bulgari, which I’ve always found too heavily scented. (artificial, but pretty) and a stylish tiled floor. There are three Now, Silversea’s custom-made Otium is in menus here: Spaccanapoli, Silversea’s every cabin, in big (although smartfabulous pizzeria; made-to-order burgers looking) containers. There’s no paper daily and salads for casual lunchtime dining; program anymore, unless you request it, and in the evenings, Hot Rocks, where you instead the Chronicle appears on the TV. cook your own steak on a sizzling stone. • Silver Nova is a groundbreaking new ship, with top Room service is suitably decadent and The S.A.L.T. Lab offers cookery classes sustainability credentials and a many of the jetlagged passengers on my that reflect the cuisine of the region: for real connection to the outdoors. cruise opt to dine “in” on the first night, my session it’s soparnik, a delicious Capacity: 728 passengers feasting on truffled popcorn, champagne Croatian chard pie with a tomato relish. Crew: 556 and lobster rolls brought by their butlers. By night, 18 guests sit around the marble Passenger decks: 9 But to me, it was Deck 10 that held all the counter and tuck into a spectacular tasting Gross tonnage: 54,700 magic. If I were to sail on Silver Nova again, Launched: 2023 menu, each dish prepared in front of you. Highs: The beautiful design, I’m pretty sure I would spend all my time If you’re inclined to pay a supplement to specifically the pool deck and here, shuttling between the beautiful pool, dine anywhere, make it here. I had the the high-ceilinged interiors. the Marquee for healthy breakfasts and veggie options of all the dishes and the The Marquee has to be one salads, the occasional cookery class, the attention to detail, and the intensity of the of the most attractive al fresco Dusk Bar for sundowners and the hipster flavours, was second to none. It’s US$180 restaurants at sea. S.A.L.T. bar for late at night. My happy ($275) per person, though; you need deep Low: You’ll pay a hefty premium for specialty dining. place, indeed. CT pockets for this ship.
The verdict
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Celine Homme Chelsea boots, $1889.
Euro chic
Jacquemus taffeta mini dress, $2040.
Loro Piana tennis sneakers, $2019.
Trunk Show
Toteme silk-twill shirt, $1100.
Gucci Eyewear sunglasses, $1310.
Tom Ford pants, $1570.
Trudon Salta room spray, $310.
Bell & Ross Br-X5 watch, $13,371. Acne Studios Musubi cross-body bag, $1950.
Saloni silk-satin gown, $1482.58.
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Bottega Veneta Madame loafers, $2010.
Valentino Garavani silk shirt, $5020, and pants, $3440.
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BITES Battle of the Battle of the
The specialty restaurant craze has spread from luxury to premium cruise ships, prompting David Dickstein to put NCL’s Prima class to a taste test.
Diners club
The prime rib on Norwegian; upscale Italian at Onda by Scarpetta (left).
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O
nce it was a groaning buffet table. Now, gourmet dining is the new front line for premium-class ships. Holland America Line recently launched a first-of-its-kind fresh fish program. Cunard has commissioned the two-Michelinstarred chef, Michel Roux, to create menus for both the fleet and its next flagship, Queen Anne. Princess struck gastronomic gold with ‘360: An Extraordinary Experience’, which takes guests on a journey through the sights, sounds, textures and scents of local cuisines. Celebrity now has two of Chef Daniel Boulud’s upscale restaurants and Royal Caribbean’s record-setting Icon of the Seas has 20 new food and drink concepts. Meanwhile, Norwegian Cruise Line’s generation-next, Prima-class ships have arrived with a new class of food. My task is to taste eight of the best offerings. Here’s my verdict.
/ Le Bistro
The most opulent and romantic specialty restaurant on Prima ships is French-accented Le Bistro. Intimate and elegant, this sophisticated dinner option is resplendent in every detail, right down to the large ornate chandeliers hung at eye level for dramatic effect. On the main side, classic French dishes include coq au vin, beef tenderloin, lobster thermidor and roasted duck. Sumptuous surprises range from Moroccan-spiced lamb to a satisfying vegetarian entrée of portobello mushrooms. Not a single appetiser, soup or salad has disappointed on multiple visits, and of the desserts, one especially worthy of an ooh la la is the Marquise au Chocolat, made with 70-percent dark chocolate cremeux and a generous drizzle of Chambord raspberry sauce. If cheese is what you crave, Le Bistro’s assiette de fromage features some of the best camembert, muenster, roquefort and goat’s cheese this side of the Seine. The ship’s top
“Not a single appetiser, soup or salad has disappointed ... and of the desserts, one especially worthy of an ooh la la is the Marquise au Chocolat.” sommeliers are always near to suggest the perfect wines to complement the meal.
/ Onda by Scarpetta
Scarpetta claims its footprint is “in all corners of the world”, and that must be because the chain of upscale Italian restaurants partners with NCL ships that travel the globe. In terms of standalone locations, they’re only in five countries, and none are in Australia. With Onda by Scarpetta, currently on Prima, Viva, Encore and Spirit, there’s no need to travel to Italy, England, Japan, Qatar or the US for the company’s amazing pappardelle Bolognese (with beef, pork and veal ragu), scialatielli (with shrimp, clams, mussels and calamari) and branzino (with lemony salmoriglio dressing). Open for dinner, Onda features many other signature pastas and yummy seafood creations, along with modern turns to such classic Italian desserts as tiramisu and panna cotta. The restaurants on Prima-class ships are especially stunning with a modern interior design blending soothing wood tones with intense white mouldings that hint at late Catalan artist Antoni Gaudi. The galley’s adroit plating of the food adds to the aesthetics.
/ Nama Sushi & Sashimi
Sushi is hit or miss on cruise ships, but it’s happily – and consistently – the former at Nama. Located across from Hasuki on Prima ships, Nama, open only for dinner, is an understated and intimate sushi bar with a surprisingly eclectic menu. Even better, on multiple cruises the raw fish tasted “Day 1 fresh”
even after two straight sea days when gallies weren’t being restocked. The thinly sliced ahi (yellowfin tuna), kanpachi (yellowtail) and unagi (eel) were of like quality as that found in better land-based sushi restaurants. Those and other pieces also make for terrific rolls. Cold dishes include the Tuna Wonton Volcano with avocado and jalapeno, and a beef striploin carpaccio, and on the hot side is a flavourful karaage (fried chicken). The mochi comes in mango and green tea, but if it’s a special dessert you yen for, try the Pineapple Carpaccio kissed with lemongrass syrup and pomegranate. Nama has perhaps the most extensive sake list on the high seas. Kanpai!
/ Cagney’s
Accented by 20th-century architecture and mid-century design, Norwegian’s signature steakhouse on Prima ships jettisons the once-standard dark woods, dimmed lighting and overall speakeasy vibe reminiscent of the United States’ Prohibition Era of 1920-1933. The contemporary ambience of Cagney’s on Prima, Viva and, as of 2025, Aqua, offers guests a pleasing contrast of contemporary and classic, as in design and menu, respectively. The ordinary becomes extraordinary at dinnertime, led by the traditional starters of lobster bisque, onion soup (topped with a large gruyere crouton) and iceberg wedge salad. While the double-cut Australian lamb chops and steelhead trout are excellent choices, Cagney’s is better known for premium cuts like prime rib, porterhouse, filet mignon and ribeye. For those who imbibe, all of the above pairs well with a savvy selection from Cagney’s extensive cocktail menu or award-winning wine list. Not ordering a side of their parmesandusted truffle fries and dessert of either the “OMG” caramel-butterscotch cheesecake or raspberry crème brulee is a sin.
/ Palomar
Modifications made between its debut on Prima and a second iteration on Viva have helped NCL’s first Mediterranean seafood restaurant go from good to grouse. Tweaks to the Lavraki (sea bass) and Dover sole give these mains more flavour with less oil. For a tasty trip to Greece and Italy, highly recommended is a three-course meal consisting of beautifully plated tuna crudo, roasted monkfish and citrusy galaktoboureko dessert. Eavesdropping on both Prima ships verified that the grilled octopus and sea scallops are also superb. 68
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NORWEGIAN PRIMA CLASS FOOD
Perfection on a plate
Japanese ramen; datiles con almendras (above); and restaurant Palomar (left).
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Voyage NORWEGIAN PRIMA CLASS FOOD
With an atmosphere accentuated by natural light and panoramic windows, it’s a shame that Palomar isn’t open for lunch. That said, a reservation time that coincides with sunset is, like the cuisine itself, something to savour.
/ Hasuki
The majority of NCL’s fleet features a teppanyaki-style restaurant, and even though the master chefs are pretty much equal in terms of talent and showmanship across the near-20 ships with these Japanese-themed eateries, on Prima-class vessels the epicurean experience is enhanced with tasteful artwork and other modern elements. The menus between Hasuki, which is what they’re named on Prima ships, and the others (simply called Teppanyaki) are also similar. Mains include chicken breast, jumbo shrimp and New York strip, and whether ordered as a standalone or combination, meals are served with edamame, miso soup and salad with ginger dressing followed by fried rice, grilled vegetables, dipping sauces and dessert. Hard as each skilful chef tries to entertain while playing with the food you’re about to eat (the onion volcano is always a big hit), the experience is influenced by who is on your side of the steel grill. Being seated with lively people assures a filling and fun time even without a round of Shaku-Shaku signature cocktails.
/ Food Republic
The loose theme of this ambiguously named a la carte restaurant is international street food. Menu items are ordered on a touchscreen tablet, and unless done so one at a time, dishes come out as they’re ready – make note of this if
the plan is to get chocolate cake after the chicken lettuce wraps. This isn’t so different from how things are done at Indulge Food Hall, which offers wider choices that don’t cost extra or require reservations. So, why pay $29 for Korean-style lamb kalbi gui at Food Republic when the rotisserie lamb top sirloin and a variety of Pan-Pacific dishes are included at Indulge? Because of free will, perhaps. Plus, good as the food is at the complimentary dining option, two things Food Republic has that Indulge doesn’t are to-die-for tuna poke nachos and the Green Tea Jar dessert – both worth the extra buckaroos. Food Republic is open for dinner nightly and lunch on sea days (our pick for the ocean view). Moreover, the understated ambiance of the restaurant and street food fare does give off a more lunchy vibe.
/ Los Lobos
The modern twist on traditional Mexican flavours at Los Labos might win over a few dispassionate palates. The fajitas are rather ordinary for a dish listed as a “house specialty”, but three other mains in that subcategory are anything but boring. The slowly braised pork that headlines the cochinita pabil is succulent and, thanks to a splash of bitter orange juice, has appropriate tartness. It’s pretty, too, served on a banana leaf. The chorizo, spicy tomato broth and mezcal bring out tremendous flavour from the star shellfish in a winning mejillones borrachos (“drunken mussels”). The chile relleno is a perfect marriage of roasted poblano pepper, apple, raisins and earthy quinoa. The signature Tres Leches Cake with coconut cream is so worth the calories. Los Lobos on Prima ships offers indoor and outdoor seating, both of which are decked in a fiesta of colours. CT David Dickstein travelled on Norwegian Viva.
Norwegian Viva Here are the top tips when you’re on board Norwegian Viva.
• Indulge Food Hall
With 11 different eateries, the menu changes throughout the day, so we recommend coming back for breakfast, lunch and dinner! To avoid the morning rush, Indulge is also a great option for casual grab-and-go breakfast.
• Whiskey Bar If you don’t know where to start, amateurs and connoisseurs alike will enjoy sampling the curated American whiskey flights or trying the exclusive Bliss Boulevardier cocktail. For a more unique option, the Skrewball Peanut Butter Whiskey is a menu standout. • Observation Lounge
If you need a place to unwind, this lounge features afternoon bites and tea and some of the most relaxing ambience on board.
• Metropolitan Bar The Prima Class zero-waste cocktail bar is boasting a new, must-try drink – El Padrino. While sipping on sustainable cocktails, make sure to check out the more than 15-metre long interactive artwork, “Every Wing has a Silver Lining“, by British artist Dominic Harris. • Syd Norman’s Pour House and Improv When the sun sets, the party gets started! Arrive early to grab a drink and a seat before these venues become standing room only! Evening entertainment includes the Rumours of Fleetwood Mac cover band, karaoke and stand-up comedians.
Spoilt for choice
From top: The Whiskey Bar; Indulge Food Hall; and teppanyaki at Hasuki.
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Gucci silk-satin shirt, $2302.
Loewe Eyewear sunglasses, $656.32.
Casual chic
Trunk Show
Marni cotton-poplin shirt, $972, and shorts, $875.
Valentino Garavani Vlogo leather belt, $780.
Métier Private Eye suede tote, $5114.
Adidas Originals Gazelle sneakers, $168.
Oscar de la Renta earrings, $473.25.
Loro Piana Bermuda shorts, $933. Ganni recycled-georgette dress, $295.
Simkhai Pati midi dress, $775.
Kartik Research cotton-voile shirt, $711. Balenciaga Hourglass bag, $4150.
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Voyage
BEYOND BULA
Captain Cook Cruises’ new expedition ship offers Fiji from a new perspective. Peter Lynch sails Caledonian Sky to the remote islands tourists rarely get to see.
The local touch
Australian giants are in a tank outside, and dozens of plastic containers hold spawn that will soon turn into young clams spread over the bay. Results have been positive. Coral replanting is now a major industry in Fiji. Our host, Captain Cook Cruises Fiji, has a private island called Tivua, and marine biologists working for the company have discovered that seeding coral which has survived a bleaching attack can create colonies that are more resilient – possibly even immune. Their DNA seems to contain an antidote. A little redemption, indeed, for what we’ve done to the planet. We are on board Fiji’s first luxury expedition ship. The Caledonian Sky is a 33-year-old classic that has sailed in Asia, Scotland and our own Kimberley, when she was owned by APT. While in Scotland, she was refitted in the style of a country
Photos: Peter Lynch and Tim Faircloth.
Making a splash (above); Caledonian Sky (right); Pastor Tua Fili in the island’s former leper colony buildings.
astor Tua Fili is in full flight. The Methodist priest and caretaker of Makogai Island, part of the Lomaiviti Archipelago, is holding a wellthumbed Fijian Bible and explaining why there is only one way to heaven. We need redemption, he explains with a toothy smile. And there is only one way to get it. A dozen children from the local school sing hymns and dance. They are dressed in vivid Sunday-best colours and their dazzling white smiles soon have everyone grinning. Most of the island’s population of about 100 has turned out to see us, and their reception is effusive. The pastor’s church is a local research station. And it is promising redemption of sorts. It is conducting research into how giant clams can help heal coral reefs. Two 30-year-old
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Voyage
Marine conservation
Giant clam (above); songs follow cruisers everywhere.
hotel, and a lot of that remains today. Her suites rejoice in names like Brodick Castle and Clan Elliott. She has beautiful wood-veneered corridors. The suites are rather grand, with dark wood and comfy, coloured chairs. Her main restaurant and bars could easily grace a Hebridean hotel. She even has a fireplace! There is room for up to 100 guests and a crew of about 70 – a great ratio for luxury travel. There are 10 expedition staff running lectures, helming the Zodiacs and ensuring visits to remote tribal villages go well. In this remote area of Fiji, respect and tradition are important. Today, Caledonian Sky is our expedition base for an exploration of a Fiji that few ever see, a world away from the “Bula” welcome of branded resorts. Our Zodiacs and guides lead us to stunning snorkelling and dive locations, villages that rarely see anything but the monthly supply boat, beaches where nimble young men shin up trees to serve us fresh coconut water. It’s quite a revelation – the more so since Fiji is some four hours from Sydney and Brisbane. The ship is now operated by Captain Cook Cruises Fiji, which swapped her for the Reef Endeavour, a vessel it sailed in Fiji for decades. With the change comes a determined move upmarket – and another noble if brave decision: to make sailings an almost totally Fijian experience. There are plans to reflag the vessel in Fiji. Most of the 70-strong crew are local. They are unswervingly loyal and proud of their new ship and its pedigree, and they work hard to give guests a five-star experience, even though they have only been sailing Caledonian Sky for a few short months.
There are ambitious plans for a dry-dock refit in 2025. And a top Fijian chef is being sought to lead a galley already working on Fijian delights.
O
ur fellow guests have come from as far afield as Canada, America, Germany, the UK and Mexico to see a Fiji not many get to experience. In this, our seven-night Lau Islands cruise doesn’t disappoint. Fiji’s islands have little power or supplies – which is why China’s gift of solar panels has been so popular. The local schools crave crayons and exercise books rather than money (we’ve bought a big supply from Dymocks). Perhaps it’s no wonder we draw a crowd. This is the Pacific’s front line in a battle for influence. We all know illegal Chinese fishing vessels are just over the horizon, and that the little we do is important to win over hearts and minds. Fiji is famous for the genuine friendliness and joy that seems to permeate people’s lives. It’s infectious and uplifting. Family is a huge part of Fijian life, and to be welcomed as family to an authentic Fijian village is something very special. On every island, there is a well-drilled choir of children and adults. Their warmth and hospitality are completely authentic. We are shown through homes,
“On every island, there is a welldrilled choir of children and adults. Their warmth and hospitality are completely authentic.”
CAPTAIN COOK CRUISES CALEDONIAN SKY
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The gift of kava
offered food, drink and copious bowls of kava, that brown liquid revered by all Fijians and made from the root of a plant. Kava is at the heart of culture here. It’s a potent relaxant, and Fijians claim it has all the highs of alcohol without the aggression or the hangover. At every island stopover, the ship’s crew gave a gift of kava at what is called a sevusevu ceremony. It goes something like this: ship’s crewman to village chief – “We offer you this woefully inadequate gift of kava.” Chief – “Not at all, it looks great to me, let’s pound it in a huge mortar and pestle and have a drink.” Soon, the men (usually not the women, as this is still a patriarchal society) are happily sharing bowls and smoking local tobacco. What’s it like? Let’s just say the Australian wine industry has nothing to worry about. While we are taken to look at pottery, the schoolhouse and medical facilities, the sevusevu ceremony goes on. In the evening, we are served a lomu dinner cooked by the elders. Chicken, lamb and even bully beef are placed in a pit on rocks, covered in leaves and soil, and allowed to cook for an hour. It’s delicious. To send us off, a women’s drum band (think plastic buckets with clubs, loads of energy and laughter) farewells us at the beach. Fijians are generous, courteous, fun loving and gregarious. We stop to swim on a deserted beach and within minutes three young men arrive to cut coconuts, shinning up the trees and offering us the coconut water. A father turns up with his children for a picnic. As he lands, he spots us and immediately walks over to shake our hands and welcome us before taking off with a spear gun to get the family’s lunch. At another beach, we are offered coconut crabs straight from the pot, while wood carvers demonstrate their skills making turtle-shaped bowls.
Sevusevu ceremony (left); stunning beaches (above); learning about the islands’ ecology.
The verdict High: Location, location
location – the Fijian islanders are among the warmest, most welcoming on Earth, and the destinations are genuinely unspoilt and very beautiful. Low: The accommodation and main restaurant are brilliant on Caledonian Sky, but a few areas need work. And everyone agreed it would be great if the back deck was open for evening meals. Who is it for: Adventure seekers who want to arrive on a desert island in style.
A
way from the main resorts, Fiji really is paradise. We snorkel among corals and scuba dive off reefs. White-tipped sharks swim past us without a second glance. Manta rays and turtles are accompanied by great clouds of colourful reef fish. The divemasters on Caledonian Sky are helpful and safety-conscious. Cruise&Travel
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Voyage
CAPTAIN COOK CRUISES CALEDONIAN SKY
Back on board our ship, among the grand corridors and brass light fittings – she has already run Fiji out of the renowned British metal polish, Brasso – the walls are now adorned with Fijian pictures and artworks. There are seven suite types – all with walkin wardrobes and some with baths. There are two huge owners’ suites featuring wraparound balconies. There is a marvellous library and bar on the top deck, which serves canapes and drinks at sunset while our entertainer, a genuine one-man band, sings the classics and plays the guitar. The ship’s main dining room on Deck 2 is a delightful sight, with more wood veneer and heavy drapes. Everyone eats here in the evenings, and there is plenty of choice. Wine and beer are included at mealtimes. There is a lounge on Deck 3 which doubles as the meeting place for shore excursions, and an open-air restaurant on Deck 5 for breakfast and lunch. There is a spa on Deck 4, and American passengers return time and again extolling both the experience and the amazing value of the treatments there. A visiting-scientist program has been launched where marine experts join select cruises to lead citizen-science and conservation activities. The line-up of visiting-scientist guest lecturers includes experts in marine biology and reef conservation, providing a
What to expect
Plenty of water games; visits to remote islands; a suite on board Caledonian Sky.
fascinating, firsthand discovery of the South Pacific’s submarine world. Confirmed in the program to date are Dr Alison Green, Dr Anne Hoggett, Dr Lyle Vail and Dr Penny Berents. Captain Cook Cruises Fiji is a family offshoot of the famous Sydney Harbour ferries and more than 50 years old. The arrival of Caledonian Sky in Fiji is filled with potential. Everyone is rooting for this experiment to propel the country into the luxury expedition space, alongside French Polynesia and Indonesia’s Raja Ampat. We took the seven-night Lau and Kadavu cruise, which included exploring the lagoons of Qilaqila, renowned for its mushroom-shaped islands, and the central lake on the uninhabited Vuaqava island. Guests can choose from three-, seven- and 14-night itineraries to discover the unexplored Fiji and South Pacific, including a cruise through the Yasawa and Mamanuca Islands, expeditions to the Northern and Southern Lau archipelagoes, a discovery of the remote north region, and an ultimate cruise to Lau and Kadavu. CT
Book it
Captain Cook Cruises Fiji is running a special promotion offering three nights free on all seven-night itineraries for 2024, sailing on board MS Caledonian Sky as she cruises the unexplored waters of Fiji. The sail-for-seven, pay-for-four promotion offers savings of up to $3297 per person on all sevennight cruises. Guests booking before 31 March 2024 enjoy three nights sailing for free with inclusive fares from $4396 per person twin share. For further information and bookings, see captaincookcruisesfiji.com.
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Bottega Veneta Intrecciato messenger bag, AU$3636.
Oscar de la Renta Starfish brooch, $722.98.
Fijian Islands
Trunk Show Dolce & Gabbana cotton-poplin shirt and mini skirt, $1350 each. Gucci Horsebit sandals, $1034.
La DoubleJ silk-twill pants, $1200.
Hunza G Christy swimsuit, $315.
Bode Village cotton tote bag, $980. Escvdo + Net Sustain Carisa midi dress, $624.
Gerald Charles Maestro 3.0, $36,628.
Valentino Garavani straw sunhat, $1490.
Orlebar Brown Maitan palm tree shirt, $551. Vilebrequin Moorea swim shorts, $413.
Birkenstock Arizona Big Buckle sandals, AU$292.12.
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NEW IN
2025
BORDEAUX BECKONS BE AMONGST THE FIRST TO SAIL ON OUR NEW FRENCH RIVER CRUISES
EXPERIENCE THE
CAUDEBEC NORMANDY BEACHES
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Sample the best of the Bordeaux region as you explore the châteaux, vineyards and charming villages of southwestern France.
Complement your Bordeaux adventure with cruise exploring French history on the Seine for a full-bodied cruising experience.
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■ Visit Château de la Brede – birthplace of Montesquieu ■ Learn how Cognac is made while enjoying a Remy Martin tasting ■ Taste locally grown oysters in the seaside resort of Arcachon
■ Wander the paths of Giverny, home of Claude Monet ■ Marvel at Napoleon’s opulent Château de Malmaison ■ Explore the ancient heart of Paris on a Guided Walk
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Visit AvalonWaterways.com.au | Call 1300 230 234 | See your travel agent See our website for full pricing and itineraries.
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ACE
Rivers 80 Down the Douro | 82 New ships for APT | 84 Avalon sails to Bordeaux
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Aboard the world’s biggest river ship
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River Trends
DANCE WITH THE DOURO
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Major river cruise lines are lining up ships on Portugal’s Douro River. What is the attraction of this vineyard-filled, sunny destination? Bernadette Chua finds out.
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Taking it slow
Clockwise, from main: Porto; the vineyards of Regua; picturesque Amarante on the Tâmega river, a Douro tributary.
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P
ortugal is blessed with year-long temperate weather and gorgeous scenery. But the best thing about Douro River cruises is that the long stretch of water is bookended by two buzzy cities – Porto and Lisbon. It’s no wonder river cruise companies are pouring their efforts into this sunny European country. There are vineyards that could rival those of what you would find in France and Spain; and history as old as what you’ll see in Eastern Europe. But one of the best things about Portugal is that it’s still relatively inexpensive compared to its neighbours. Cruise capacity on the Douro River will be up 14 per cent this year, compared to 2023 figures. Viking and CroisiEurope come out as the top operators by market share; together they account for just under 35 per cent of the total market on the river. Another 19 companies are also offering Douro departures, with some of these lines set to launch new vessels which are purpose built for the smaller Portuguese locks. Viking and CroisiEurope will increase capacity in 2024 and we will also start to see more itineraries from AmaWaterways, Avalon Waterways, Rivages du Monde, Saga Cruises, Uniworld River Cruises, Scenic Cruises, APT Cruises, Phoenix Reisen and more. Viking and AmaWaterways will also extend their seasons to November and December. This year, Avalon Waterways is launching Avalon Alegria, its first purpose-built vessel for the Douro; it has been designed to be small enough to fit through the river’s locks. “Avalon’s maiden voyage on the Douro will sail in March and has proven to be very popular with our customers,” says Avalon Waterways’ Asia-Pacific head of marketing, Chris Fundell. “We’ve already sold out some departures and very few cabins remain for 2024. The Douro is in demand due to its renowned breathtaking landscapes – this sailing showcases the World Heritage-listed Alto Douro wine region with terraced vineyards that date back 2000 years – and for the incredible cultural experience Portugal offers.” Avalon Alegria’s Panorama Suites span across two full decks, and each suite has open-air balconies and beds facing the river views. The ship has a pool on the Sky
Deck, which is lovely for basking in the sun and soaking in the beauty of Portugal while sitting poolside. The ship has 14 deluxe staterooms and 37 panorama suites, and accommodates just 102 guests. Riviera River Cruises will launch two new ships in 2025 – one of which, Riviera Rose, will be designated to the Douro. Riviera has designated MS Porto Mirante to sail the region this year. The eight-day ‘Highlights of the Douro Valley and Salamanca River’ will start its season in July. The itinerary will operate round-trip sailings from Porto and will include visits to the Quinta da Pacheca winery and to the walled village of Castelo Rodrigo, as well as a tour of Salamanca, Spain, with a traditional flamenco show over lunch. “Our only itinerary on the Douro River has grown to become one of our most popular cruises, so we’re launching a new ship and a new itinerary to keep up with demand there,” says Marilyn Conroy, an executive vice-president of sales and marketing for Riviera. TUI River Cruises has revealed its upcoming new build, the river ship TUI Alma, which will be joining the fleet in 2025. The company’s managing director, Chris Logan, says, “This is a huge moment for TUI River Cruises and a defining moment in our journey. Given we only launched back in 2021, it’s a testament to the response of our customers that we’re able to deliver a new-build ship. We’re so excited to create something amazing for our guests.” Meaning ‘soul’ in Portuguese, Alma will have a pool with ample seating areas and sun loungers on the top deck where bar and food service will be available. There will also be an alfresco à la carte restaurant serving Portuguese-inspired dishes, while the main restaurant will serve breakfast through to dinner. CT
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River News
/ Cruise like an Egyptian
U
p-market travel company Abercrombie & Kent has pulled up all the stops with its bespoke Nile riverboat which will deliver a new golden age of river cruising for Egypt in 2025. The boutique riverboat will have 32 elegant cabins, two restaurants, a spa, gym and swimming pool, and a sun deck for sunset cocktails. Each suite will have floor-to-ceiling windows, Juliet balconies and marble bathrooms. There will be two presidential suites, each with an outdoor hot tub on its private deck. The new riverboat will be available for private charter. Abercrombie & Kent already operates four boutique river boats on the Nile: Nile Adventurer, Sun Boat III, Sun Boat IV and Zein Nile Chateau.
NEW BEGINNINGS for APT • Two sleek new river vessels from Australian luxury company APT will launch in 2025. The APT Solara and APT Ostara will sail the Rhine, Maine and Danube. Their design was inspired by the European waterways – but without the fussiness. Melbourne designer Hecker Gutherie is at the helm of the interiors and has created multiple spaces of varying sizes. “Guests don’t just have to head to
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the ‘main lounge’. We are creating many opportunities for guests to find their space, be it reading nooks or spaces where you can observe the action and engage as and when you choose,” he says. The ships offer three cabin options: Twin Window Suites, Balcony Suites and Owner’s Suites. Each ship will feature six all-inclusive dining options, including an intimate wine cellar, a relaxing conservatory and an exclusive aft restaurant. The sun deck will also offer alfresco dining along with a heated pool and a lounge area.
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4/3/2024 4:06 pm
The Vikings are coming
• Viking has opened sales for its 2026 European river voyages after many 2024 dates sold out and the 2025 season is selling well. There has been strong demand for the line’s fleet of 80 river ships. Viking recently announced it will welcome an additional 10 Viking Longships by the end of 2026. Currently under construction, eight of the new vessels will sail Viking’s itineraries on the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers, while two ships will join the fleet on the Seine. Five of the new vessels will be delivered in 2025, with the remaining five to be delivered in 2026.
/ Dance of the queens
U
niworld Boutique River Cruises has added two new ships, S.S. Victoria and S.S. Elisabeth, which will begin sailing in Europe in 2024 and 2025. The luxury river line has taken over the ships from Seaside Collection under a three-year bareboat charter. This means Uniworld will be able to create its signature experience on existing itineraries. Before joining Riverside Luxury Cruises, the ships were a part of Crystal Cruises’ river fleet as the identical sister ships, Crystal Bach and Crystal Mahler. Both can accommodate 110 guests and highlights include a massage room, gym, rooftop bar and a fine dining restaurant. The S.S. Victoria debuted the 2024 season with a trip in March from Amsterdam on the eight-day Holland & Belgium at Tulip Time cruise through Belgium and The Netherlands. She will then embark on the eight-day Castles Along the Rhine cruise from Basel to Amsterdam, and the 10-day Magnificent Moselle and Rhine itinerary. There’s also the eight-day Belgium Holiday Markets, sailing round-trip from Brussels to a mix of Christmas markets during the festive season. S.S. Elisabeth is scheduled to set sail for the 2025 season.
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• Adventures by Disney has added two new river cruise itineraries visiting Holland and Belgium. The family-friendly 2025 itineraries explore Dutch culture and history, and welcome young travellers, called “Junior Adventurers”, to convene for special kids’ tours. Disney-trained adventure guides lead the entire voyage, using storytelling to make the trip both educational and entertaining. Two new seven-day cruises, presented in collaboration with AmaWaterways, are round-trips from Amsterdam. Expect visits to see 18th-century windmills at Kinderdijk, canal cruises through historic neighbourhoods, city excursions, food and beverage tastings, a pottery activity and biking in the countryside. During tulip season, the river cruise will also make stops at floral gardens and a tulip farm.
The MOUSE IS IN THE HOUSE
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River News
Bonjour BORDEAUX
• Avalon Waterways has revealed it will now sail France’s beautiful Bordeaux region. The seven-night cruises on the 128-passenger Avalon Artistry II will sail the Garonne and Dordogne rivers from March 2025. On shore, guests can explore moat-ringed châteaux, cycle around Bordeaux’s vineyards and visit the Citadel of Blaye. The round-trip from Bordeaux visits Cadillac-surGaronne, Cussac Fort Médoc and Libourne. The cruise can be combined with Seine, Saône, Rhône and Rhine itineraries for a wonderful longer cruise.
/APT on the Murray
A
PT has secured strong sales for the new charter riverboat PS Australian Star, which will debut on the Murray River in June next year. One-third of the 16 seven-night cruises from Echuca, Victoria have already sold out. The $6.75 million Australian Star will be the largest wood-fired luxury paddlesteamer in the Southern Hemisphere. The refurbished 1907 Richard Garrett & Sons steam engine will add a touch of nostalgia and authenticity to the journey. Accommodating only 38 passengers, Australian Star will host three- to seven-night, all-inclusive itineraries year-round. With a combination of vintage charm and contemporary elegance, the riverboat will be equipped with a fine-dining restaurant, 19 modern staterooms and complimentary WiFi. Australian Star will succeed the smaller and older PS Emmylou, which will proceed to only offer one-night cruises on the Murray River.
From Basel to NEW ORLEANS • Viking has released its 2024-2026 brochures with popular and previously soldout river journeys across Europe, France and Portugal, Egypt, Southeast Asia and the USA. There are three new river itineraries including the 11-day Rhine & Main Explorer from Nuremberg to Basel; the 22-day Mississippi River Odyssey from New Orleans to Red Wing; and the 15-day The Big Easy to the Gateway City from New Orleans to St. Louis. The Rhine & Main Explorer has 45 scheduled departure dates, 84
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beginning 13 April 2025 and running through till November. Departing Basel in Switzerland, the journey traverses three countries and countless culturally rich cities and historic towns before arriving at its final port of Nuremberg, Germany. Viking has also added 26 new departures across several of its 2024 European Christmas and winter sailings, as well as announcing an additional 584 river departures for its 2025 river season. Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 4:09 pm
/American Queen calls it a day
A
merican Queen Voyages has cancelled all future cruises, saying it has ceased operations due to “unforeseen circumstances and the inability to obtain sufficient capital”. The line mostly sailed its seven vessels on US domestic waters. Its Australian operations will continue with sister company Journey Beyond, which operates local train journeys, confirming it will “return to being a freestanding company”. Both businesses were part of the US-based Hornblower Group. Customers can expect refunds for any cancelled voyages and Journey Beyond will assist booked passengers.
A-ROSA OFFERS KIDS SWIMMING LESSONS
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• Want the tiny tots to learn how to swim? A-Rosa River Cruises is offering kids, aged 4.5 and above, swimming lessons on selected cruises in the European summer. The tuition takes place on the line’s newest ship, the 280-passenger A-Rosa Sena, which is well equipped with a 23-square-metre pool and a separate children’s pool on the sun deck. The cruise line has partnered with
the Wasserlust Swimming School to be able to offer the lessons exclusively on its Rhine Experience Amsterdam & Rotterdam itinerary. Cruises are round-trip from Cologne and depart July 27, August 3 and August 10, 2024. There will be six lessons for 30-40 minutes with prices from €149 ($247). Family cabins sleep up to five people and children aged 15 and under travel free.
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Voyage
A wide berth
Right: The doublewidth AmaMagna. Below: Aggstein Castle ruins above the Danube in Wachau, Austria.
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“g
osh, this is something special,” the man next to me enthuses. He’s my hubby and not given to gushing about ships, food, service… anything really. Yet here we are, stepping on board the river ship AmaMagna, and I swear he’s close to uttering ‘wow’. He’s spot on. AmaMagna is something special. It’s twice the width of almost every other river ship plying the waterways of Europe (only two others come close), has cabins large enough to swing several cats, and there’s four restaurants, yet it holds just 196 passengers. That’s a mere handful more guests than vessels half AmaMagna’s size hold. Beautiful inside and out, the vessel was the dream of Rudi Schreiner, co-founder and president of AmaWaterways, and not only impresses people like us who are sold on river cruising but is perfect for ocean cruisers put off sailing the waterways by the thought of small cabins and fewer dining options. It can only sail the Danube, where the locks are wide enough for it to slip through, but hey, with all there is to discover along the riverbanks that really is no hardship.
We’ll be visiting castles, abbeys and wineries on our seven-night Magna on the Danube cruise from the German town of Vilshofen to Budapest, the gorgeous capital city of Hungary. We’ll also be sailing through the beautiful Wachau Valley and ticking off two other great capitals – Vienna and Bratislava, respectively in Austria and Slovakia. If we continued downriver towards the Black Sea on one of AmaMagna’s Lower Danube cruises, we would additionally notch up exciting Belgrade and Bucharest, respectively the capitals of Serbia and Romania, see more castles and journey through centuries of history. / New kid on the block AmaWaterways has been around for many years – its 20th anniversary was in 2022 – but chances are few Australians have heard of it because its cruises have always been sold Down Under through APT. That’s all changing. The companies are going their separate ways at the end of 2024. AmaWaterways
Twice as nice
Jane Archer is on board the largest river ship in the world. But does the AmaMagna live up to her size?
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Voyage
AMAWATERWAYS AMAMAGNA ON THE DANUBE
Aboard AmaMagna
Clockwise, from top: Jimmy’s familystyle restaurant; pool and Sky Bar; alfresco spin class; view of the spacious deck; masterfully prepared cuisine.
has already opened an office in Sydney and is giving Australians and New Zealanders an exciting – and expanded – portfolio of river cruises to discover. “APT chartered five AmaWaterways’ river ships and sold other itineraries, but it didn’t sell our entire portfolio,” says Steve Richards, managing director of the new office. “From 2025, all AmaWaterways’ cruises will be available to Australians and New Zealanders.” Prepare for some tough choices! AmaWaterways has 25 river ships (plus two more launching in 2024 and two again in 2025) that between them sail the world’s greatest rivers. To the Danube, add Rhine cruises through Holland, Germany, France and Switzerland, voyages on the Seine, Rhône, Saône, Garonne, Gironde and Dordogne in France, and sailings along the Douro in Northern Portugal. There are also wine, golf and Christmas market-themed cruises. Outside Europe, you’ll see temples, tombs and pyramids sailing the Nile in Egypt, get a cultural overload on the Mekong in Vietnam and Cambodia, and have wildlife encounters on safari cruises on the Chobe in Botswana. In late 2024, AmaWaterways will make history with the first cruises on the Magdalena River in Columbia for 60 years. They are seven nights and promise everything from nature and wildlife to music and culture.
“AMAMAGNA CAN ONLY SAIL THE DANUBE, WHERE THE LOCKS ARE WIDE ENOUGH FOR IT TO SLIP THROUGH.”
/ Five countries All 2025 cruises are already on sale with prices in Australian and New Zealand dollars. They include new 14-night itineraries specially created for the local market, among them the popular Amsterdam to Budapest run, which takes passengers through five countries on a journey that ticks off three rivers (the Rhine, Main and Danube) and a canal (the MainDanube). There are also river combos that pair the Seine, Rhône and Saône in France and a fabulous
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new cruise covering the length of the Danube, from Vilshofen in Germany through Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia and Bulgaria to Bucharest in Romania. Fares include wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner, a predinner cocktail hour, excursions and, exclusively for Australia and New Zealand, tips. In 2025 the seven-night Magna on the Danube cruise costs from $4318 per person. Flights and transfers are extra. Early booking trends show 14-night cruises in big demand, with July and August popular for Europe’s summer and December for Christmas markets. “We look forward to welcoming everyone: ocean cruisers making the move to rivers via AmaMagna, those yet to cruise and past river cruisers trying AmaWaterways,” says Richards. “It’s an exciting time.” / Ships It’s easy to spot AmaWaterways’ river ships as all names start with Ama. The exception is Zambezi Queen, which sails four-night cruises on the Chobe that are packaged variously with Cape Town, Victoria Falls, Johannesburg and the Rovos Rail luxury train. Zambezi Queen is the smallest vessel, with room for just 28 passengers. The rest hold between 72 to 162 guests. AmaMagna, with room for 196 passengers, is the company’s only double-width river ship. / Accommodation Cabins or suites have split inside/outside balconies to cater for all weather, French balconies only or high fixed windows. All rooms face the river and have good-sized bathrooms with large showers. All Zambezi Queen rooms have step-out balconies. The smallest cabins on AmaMagna are as large as higher-grade rooms on some river ships. Splash out on the Owner’s Suite and you get a separate bedroom and living room, a dining table, a coffee machine and a free minibar. Standard suites have oodles of storage space, a large bathroom and a separate toilet. / Dining AmaWaterways has replaced the buffet breakfasts and lunches common on other river ships with a refined waiter-service start to the day. It beats
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Expert tips
Favourite meal on board: The
Chef’s Table on AmaMagna was a seven-course extravaganza that served up everything from a spicy coconut and lemongrass laksa soup to a cassis sorbet in sparkling wine and beef brisket. The food was delicious and the personal service excellent, with dietary requirements taken care of without fuss or bother. To top it all, the accompanying wine was my favourite Austrian Grüner Veltliner (white).
Insider tip: Pack your keep-fit gear. AmaMagna has a large gym and, like all AmaWaterways’ European river ships (except on the Douro), an
onboard trainer who hosts stretching, yoga, Pilates, spin and other classes. There are up to six a day, all free. You can also bat off the calories on a pickleball court.
What to expect: Most
passengers on AmaMagna were active 55+ sorts and a mix of river cruise veterans or first-timers making a switch from ocean ships. There were several British guests, but most were from the US so the vibe was very much relaxed American. AmaMagna’s size meant we never queued and could always find a quiet hideaway. The lounge bar was lively each evening, as first cocktail hour and then after-dinner entertainment kicked in.
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Voyage
What a hit
Right: Pickleball on the Sun Deck of AmaMagna. Below: Parliament Building, Budapest.
quick-stepping around others at the buffet or trying to piece together bacon and eggs before one or the other goes cold, but it takes longer to get through meals, especially if there’s a rush, so doesn’t suit everyone. Dinners in the main restaurant are four courses – appetisers, soups, mains and desserts – and always include vegetarian options. Once every cruise, there’s a set dinner under the banner of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, an association of gastronomy enthusiasts from around the globe, of which AmaWaterways is a member. AmaWaterways’ European river ships (although not those on the Douro in Portugal) and also the AmaDara in Vietnam and Cambodia have a Chef’s Table where everyone can dine once (more if there is space). The meal is seven courses and complimentary. The Chef’s Table on Nile ships is outdoors. AmaMagna has two additional restaurants. Al Fresco is an intimate eatery with great views over the river that’s open for walk-up breakfast and lunch, and serves a set menu in the evenings, when reservations are needed. Jimmy’s Wine Bar has long ‘family’ tables and serves food on large plates from which everyone helps themselves. It also requires reservations. All restaurants are complimentary.
“I HAVE CRUISED WITH AMAWATERWAYS SEVERAL TIMES AND AM ALWAYS AMAZED AT HOW THEY REMEMBER ME.”
/ Service The crew are wonderful, offering a service that is both friendly and efficient. I have cruised with AmaWaterways several times and am always amazed at how they remember me given the thousands of guests they see each year. / Excursions Whether you’re into cycling or hiking, want to dip into history, visit churches and cathedrals or taste local wines, AmaWaterways has excursions to suit. There are various outings at each port – up to six options in some – and almost all are complimentary (one exception is a Mozart and Strauss evening in Vienna). Quietvox receivers ensure everyone can hear the guides. CT
AMAWATERWAYS AMAMAGNA ON THE DANUBE
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Golden Goose Super-Star suede sneakers, $870.
Mr P linen polo shirt, $436.
Lower Danube
Celine Homme wool cardigan, $2434. Christian Louboutin Miss Jane 55 pumps, $1525.
Trunk Show
Stone Island bucket hat, $252.
Max Mara Aceri suit jacket, $3130, and Benito pants, $1785.
Bottega Veneta poplin dress, $3120.
Cecilie Bahnsen Tilde blossommatelassé mini dress, $890. Loewe raffia tote bag, $1956.
Dior Eyewear MissDior B4U sunglasses, $783.85.
Incotex Chinolino trousers, $648.
Salomon men’s Daintree Gore-Tex hiking boots, $188.99.
Toteme sweater, $880.
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Prepare to be
SURPRISED
• You want to see the world’s greatest cities and towns your way. In luxury. Away from the crowds. But immersed in the history, the culture and the amazing food and wine.
• You want to avoid the hassle of huge hotel bills and irritating transport queues.
• You want authentic and unique experiences. Travelling with a small group of like-minded companions. With all the details taken care of.
• You want great food – but also to meet the producers and chefs that delight your senses.
Welcome to river cruising – immersive, authentic and exciting. See the world from a local’s point of view. Find out more at cruisepassenger.com.au/rivercruise/
RIVER CRUISE COLLECTIVE WO R L D ’ S M O ST R E L A X I N G H O L I DAY
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Escapes 94 Multi-gen family holidays | 100 Ultimate NZ | 104 Luxury train travel
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Anantara Mai Khao, Thailand
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Travel
Here’s how all three generations can find holiday harmony, writes Amanda Hyde.
FAMILY MATTERS
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n the not-too-distant past, the standard holiday involved parents, kids and a nice beach. But the pandemic made us rethink our priorities and, these days, more and more people are choosing to take their family holiday with the grandparents, too. Enthusiasm for multi-generation holidays rocketed post-Covid and now the trend is fast becoming the norm. “We’re seeing even more growth on the horizon,” says Jacqueline Dobson, president of Barrhead Travel. “Already, we’ve noticed around a 27 per cent increase in multi-generational and multifamily bookings for travel in 2024 compared with 2023. Villas and cruises are among the most popular types of trips for these groups, but bucket-list experiences such as holidays to Orlando are also in high demand.” One group in particular seems motivated to make these bookings and, often, pay for the trips, too: the grandparents. “Previously, multi-gen holidays were more typically led by parents who wanted their children to spend quality time with the grandparents (not to mention take advantage of childcare on tap), so to see bookings and enquiries come in from the grandparents is quite a step-change,” says Rebecca Lowe of Original Travel. Tempted to give your own multi-gen trip a try? We’ve come up with the 10 best holidays for every kind of family, from theme park extravaganzas to sedate five-star retreats via posh staycations where aunties and uncles can also join the holiday. Read on to find your favourite… CT
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DISNEY FOR EVERYONE California, US
• Theresa and Alan Wilson of Bon Voyage are grandparents themselves and love the original Disneyland in Anaheim, California. “It’s an entry-level theme-park experience,” says Theresa. “The two parks are easy to navigate, with multiple on-site hotel options, and the set-up is particularly good for younger kids.” Once older guests have had enough of the rides, it’s a 50-minute drive to Santa Monica for beach time, as well as the chance to explore the plane-packed Museum of Flying or cook cinnamon rolls and macarons at the Gourmandise School.
THAI TLC
TWO VILLAS, ONE HOLIDAY
• For a serene break on a beautiful stretch of sand, five-star Aleenta Phuket has family retreats specifically designed to foster quality time, as well as sprawling, four-bedroom beachfront villas to house everybody. Teens can join in with yoga and beach gym sessions, and you can make family memories by planting a tree together or learning to cook Thai food. Meanwhile, for little ones, the Explorer’s Club has classes in everything from batik painting to origami towel-folding.
• Personal space can be a problem if you’re sharing a house with extended family. Book a place with a separate annex, so you can all retreat for some much-needed me time. New for 2024, Simpson Travel’s five-bedroom Trullo Ashi is lost in the olive groves of Puglia (where the pasta, sandy coves and trulli towns should have universal appeal). Its main villa has a saltwater pool for kids to splash in and a pizza oven for family meals – but the real selling point is the one-bedroom trullo house in the gardens, where grandparents can hide away in luxury.
Phuket, Thailand
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Puglia, Italy
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Travel
SCANDINAVIAN ADVENTURE Lofoten Islands, Norway
• Milestone birthdays are often the reason behind multi-gen holidays and, for those, you need something extra-special. Adventurous families will love a trip to the remote Norwegian Lofoten Islands, an Arctic archipelago once inhabited by fishermen tracing the cod migration, but now popular with hikers and wildlife watchers. It offers the chance to kayak, surf, hike or explore by RIB (rigid inflatable boat).
SPLASHY RENTALS Cotswolds, UK
• Planning on packing the extended family? Accommodation logistics for a big vacation somewhere like the Cotswolds can be tough once you start to involve siblings, aunts and uncles, too. For big family holidays, opt for large rental properties such as the Latimer Farm Oddington, where four buildings accommodate up to 20 guests. The 19th-century estate about 90 minutes’ drive from Heathrow has been given a serious sprucing. On its nearly two hectares of grounds, there’s a pool, gym, cinema room and tennis court with football goals.
TRICK THE TEENS INTO HAVING FUN Patagonia, Argentina
• Keeping older kids happy on a trip with granny and grandpa can be a thankless task. Trade a traditional hotel stay for a more experiential trip that’s guaranteed to inspire joy in even the most jaded teen. Harriet Pike, head of Swoop Patagonia, is “seeing more groups of children, parents and grandparents on our voyages than ever before”. For an unforgettable adventure, she recommends the company’s Peninsula Valdés Self-Drive Safari spotting elephant seals, sea lions, Magellanic penguins and southern right whales on a Unesco-protected stretch of Argentinian coast. The five-day safari costs from $2707 per person all-inclusive, including car hire, but excludes flights. Book via swoop-patagonia.com. 96
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EASY RIDER
Loire Valley, France • A biking holiday with kids and grandparents might sound like madness, but cycling the Loire on a self-guided itinerary is a pleasure. An easy, seven-day jaunt has plenty to please every age group; from around eight-plus. On the cards are trips to the fairytale Château d’Ussé (thought to have inspired Sleeping Beauty), as well as Château de Saché, where Balzac penned some of his most famous works. Top it off with wine tastings for the grown-ups, cave houses for the kids to explore and nights at Domaine la Tortinière, complete with a pool, boating lake and family suites that sleep up to six.
DRIFT ALONG THE DANUBE Vienna to Nuremberg
• River cruising company Uniworld’s family-friendly Generations program includes activities such as dessert-making with the onboard pastry chef, tours of the ship with the captain and specially created shore excursions – from a geocache treasure hunt around the German city of Passau to a trip to the headquarters of renowned coloured-pencil makers, Faber-Castell. Meanwhile, the company has kept some of its traditional grandparent-pleasers, including private art gallery viewings and city walking tours. An eight-day Authentic Danube cruise costs from $3299 per person.
THE CLASSIC ALL-INCLUSIVE Corfu, Greece
• An all-inclusive is a good solution for families for whom splitting the bill can fast become a minefield. The much-loved Ikos chain has some of the best options in Greece, with its newest outpost Ikos Odisia about to enter a second season amid Corfu’s fragrant pine forest. Ten pools and a private beach means ample opportunity for families to do their own thing during the day and meet up at one of six restaurants later, with pedalos, kayaks, tennis and a spa to keep everyone busy. Meanwhile, there’s a kids’ club for little ones aged from four months and a football academy for older children.
PRIVATE SAFARI Zambia
• The increasing number of extended families booking safaris has led to camps building villas where kids, parents and grandparents can stay together. On Expert Africa’s Greater Bushbaby Safari through the South Luangwa National Park and Great Rift Valley in Zambia, families can head out by boat to see hippos or drive through a wilderness busy with elephants, before returning to a thatched four-bedroom house with a private swimming pool. Safari guides and chef-cooked meals included. The eight-night safari costs from $14,380 per person. Book via expertafrica.com. Cruise&Travel
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Collaboration
Nature’s wonders
ABERCROMBIE & KENT
Predators & prey An A&K safari is a call to witness the untold majesty of nature’s greatest theatre – with the original safari experts.
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Clockwise, from left: Crossing the Mara; Serengeti; Ngorongoro crater; Ishara Mara.
n this 12-day Tailor-Made Journey, travel through Kenya and Tanzania to some of the world’s most acclaimed and exclusive wildlife reserves to bear witness to one of nature’s most incredible spectacles. Watch thousands of herd animals make their annual trek in search of water and fresh grazing land, stalked by predators every step of the way. At night you’ll stay in luxurious camps and lodges, in the most opportune locations for extraordinary wildlife viewing. Begin in Tarangire National Park where you’ll spend two days tracking iconic wildlife, in 4x4s with unobstructed views from every angle. Go exploring on foot with expert bush guides and relish night game drives in search of elusive nocturnal animals. Expect to see large numbers of wildebeest, elephant, gazelle, zebra, hartebeest and buffalo. Your luxe camp is situated on the top of an escarpment with sweeping views across the Tarangire River. Ride on a tuk tuk through a local village, before continuing to the spectacular
Ngorongoro Crater. Spend two days at this cinematic location, set inside an extinct volcano. Take game drives across the limecoloured basin, surrounded by towering walls – a natural enclosure for a dazzling abundance of wildlife. At night, bed down at the Manor for a touch of old-world luxury. On day six, fly into the world-famous Serengeti National Park, where more animals roam than any other place on Earth. Spend two action-packed days watching the Great Migration play out as wildebeest and zebra hurtle across the plains. Depending on the location of “The Migration”, A&K will recommend which camp is best suited for your stay. Next, travel to the Ishara Mara on the Talek River in the heart of the Masai Mara, for two full days exploring open savannah, woodlands and tree-fringed rivers. Observe cheetahs hunt across the plains, see leopards lounging in trees, or elephants fiercely protecting their young. Amid the stunning scenery, watch as Maasai tribesmen traverse the plains herding goats and cattle. On your last night, sleep out in the star bed, surrounded by all the sounds of the wild. CT For more information visit abercrombiekent. com.au.
Luxury safaris
• Africa was where it all began for A&K, pioneering the world’s very first luxury safari in 1962. Sixty years on, they are the world experts in tailor-made experiential safaris — journeys that inspire heart-stopping adventures in the wild. No one can take you there quite like A&K.
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DISCOVER THE CONTRAST AND COLOUR OF EXOTIC INDIA India’s rich tapestry of culture, colour and history has enthralled travellers for centuries. From the bustling cities of Delhi and Mumbai to the tranquil backwaters and tropical beaches of the south, the snowy peaks of the Himalayas to the grandeur of the palaces of the north — the charm and contrast of India is alluring. When you travel to India with A&K, prepare to go beyond the extraordinary with privileged access to authentic and immersive insider experiences, and stay in exquisite palace-turned-luxury-hotel accommodation. With unrivalled insight, expert guides and a longstanding presence on the ground, A&K sets the benchmark for bespoke itineraries in India. No matter your dream, A&K can curate the perfect luxurious India adventure just for you.
Splendours of Rajasthan
Indian South: Coast to Coast
Ladakh: A Breathtaking Himalayan Journey
Step back into a bygone era of emperors and princes in royal Rajasthan as you discover Delhi’s colonial grandeur and delectable cuisine. Behold the marbled elegance of the iconic Taj Mahal and the enchanting ‘Pink City’ of Jaipur. Explore Udaipur’s Taj Lake Palace after dark while staying in India’s most regal hotels on this TailorMade Journey.
From the Bay of Bengal to the Arabian Sea, experience a vibrant sensory feast on this Tailor-Made Journey of South India. From the French influence of Puducherry to the tranquil backwaters of Kerala, the cultural charms of Kochi to the ancient temples of Tamil Nadu, expect extraordinary wildlife, ancient history and colonial-influenced culinary delights.
Venture into India’s remote northern reaches to Ladakh and experience an extraordinary life amidst the peaks of the Himalayas on this TailorMade Journey. Hike soaring mountains to find ancient monasteries and fluttering prayer flags. Meet local families and immerse yourself in remote village culture before bedding down each night surrounded by every luxury imaginable.
9 days from $6,610 pp
16 days from $7,870 pp
9 days from $10,485 pp
Call 1300 589 717, visit www.abercrombiekent.com.au or contact your travel advisor to find out more.
*Terms & Conditions apply. Prices shown are per person based on twin share and are subject to availability.
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NZ Report
Don’t just tick off the must-dos – think outside the box, writes Sarah Baxter.
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ew Zealand is magnificent, with its riotous geology, movieset looks, scrumptious wines and so many opportunities for adventure. Be you foodie, fantasy fan, hiker, biker, birder, backpacker, retiree, culture buff or adrenalin-junkie, there is something there for you. There are a bunch of obvious “must-dos”, from marvellous Milford Sound to mud-bathing in Rotorua. But there are also more left field options, plus experiences you can only have in New Zealand, such as paddling a Maori waka (canoe) or running down the side of a volcano.
/ for WALKERS AND CYCLISTS
Hiking is a must. You could tick-off one of New Zealand’s 10 official Great Walks – the Milford and Routeburn tracks are most popular, and need booking in advance. Or be first to bag the 11th, the Hump Ridge Track, expected to open in October 2024.
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But there are many other options. For instance, the Hollyford Track is a 56-kilometre foray into untouched Fiordland; do it independently, or via the award-winning Hollyford Wilderness Experience, a guided hike with smart lodges, gourmet food and jetboat transfers. Alternatively, do lots of little hikes. North Island’s Tongariro Alpine Crossing is touted as the world’s best day walk. Or try the Kaikoura Coast Track, developed by local farmers; Roy’s Peak Track, for dazzling Lake Wanaka views; or sections of longer trails like the waterside Queen Charlotte Track. Cyclists are equally spoiled. The New Zealand government has invested in bike trails to encourage tourism to rural regions. Today there are 23 off-road Great Rides, ranging from the easy Whakarewarewa Forest route to the Old Ghost Road in South Island’s wild west. The ultimate challenge? The Tour Aotearoa, a 3000-kilometre top-to-toe bike-packing trail.
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High and dry
Meet the high country on the Welcome Rock hiking and biking trail. Left: Dunedin, home of the sea lion.
NZ ULTIMATE
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NZ Report / for LUXURY LOVERS
You can add extra bragging rights by upping your accommodation’s location and exclusivity. For instance, take the PurePod network, minimalist glass cabins marooned in wild spots; two new pods have opened in Central Otago, overlooking mountains, vineyards and gold mining history, with easy access to the excellent Lake Dunstan cycle trail. Or consider stays at luxury hotelier Rosewood’s iconic trilogy of lodges – the new Kauri Cliffs in the Bay of Islands, Cape Kidnappers at Hawke’s Bay and Matakauri in Queenstown. For off-beat luxe, book a wilderness lodge. Just opened, Te Karaka offers insight into a working livestock station, with fabulous farm-to-table food, just 95 kilometres from Auckland. More remote, Eleven Cedar Lodge offers unrivalled views of, and access to, the Southern Alps; new this season are a range of heli-adventures, from hiking to wine-tasting. Indeed, helicopters are a surefire way of getting where most don’t. Look out for Kaimanawa Alpine Adventures, launching this year, which will offer fly-in/fly-out-only heli-glamping in Central North Island.
ULTIMATE NEW ZEALAND
/ for CULTURE VULTURES
Meeting Maori is key to understanding New Zealand, and worthwhile experiences include learning about the Treaty of Waitangi in Northland and tucking into a hangi feast. However, there are other ways to gain insights. For instance, take a health and wellness journey at Wai Ariki, a new spa in Rotorua, built around traditional Maori healing practices. Or head into the Kaimanawa Ranges with a Maori outdoorsman. City fan? Explore deeper with Fine Art Tours, which runs private, special-interest walks in locations such as Wellington, Christchurch, Auckland and Dunedin. And don’t miss Napier, the world’s best-preserved Art Deco town. The Art Deco Trust runs walking tours. Popular culture more your thing? Head to Hobbiton in Hamilton-Waikato, where the new Bagshot Row experience (opened December) lets Lord of the Rings lovers venture inside a Hobbit Hole.
/ for FOODIES
Succulent lamb and seafood, artisanal cheese, exceptional wine – dining across New Zealand is a delight. But experiences to really brag about? Start with a Big Foody Tastebud Tour of Auckland for guided grazing around the suburbs. Then book a place at the Chef’s Table at Blue Duck Station: a two-hour bush safari is followed by a multi-course feast with views of Tongariro National Park. Dine at North Canterbury’s Black Estate, 2023 Winery Restaurant of the Year. And, for utter opulence, helicopter to the Bad Decision, a mountaintop whisky hut in Aoraki Mount Cook National Park. Travelling on New Zealand’s scenic rail network can be tasty, too. The Great Journeys Scenic Plus Experience, which includes an open-air viewing carriage and gourmet food and drink, is available on the TranzAlpine train (Christchurch-Greymouth) and the Coastal Pacific (Picton-Kaikoura) and launches on the Northern Explorer (Auckland-Wellington) in May 2024.
/ for NATURE BUFFS
To some extent or another, everyone comes to New Zealand to be immersed in its magisterial great outdoors. And certain experiences are classic, from whale-watching off Kaikoura (a 95 per cent chance of spotting cetaceans) to meeting kiwis 102
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(the birds, that is) at Wellington’s Zealandia Eco-sanctuary. But why not up your game? For truly brilliant birding, boat over to Mou Waho Island nature reserve, home to many native species, including the flightless weka, and Arethusa Pool, a lake within an island in a lake, perfect for a dip. Or add on Stewart Island, the country’s lesser-visited third isle, for a chance to see wild southern brown kiwis in pristine nature. Prefer astronomy to avifauna? Even amateurs will be dazzled by Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve. Pimp the experience by star-spotting while soaking in hot pools or booking Billion Star Dining, a seasonal four-course feast followed by time for galaxy-gazing at the Pukaki Wine Cellar Observatory.
/ for ADVENTURE JUNKIES
There’s an air of adventure in New Zealand that may entice you to do crazy things – Zip-lining! Zorbing! Bungy! – that you wouldn’t dream of undertaking elsewhere. It’s easy to secure bragging rights if you’re willing to leap 134 metres into a canyon attached only to a piece of rope or take on the world’s highest commercially rafted waterfall. According to Jacques Cousteau, Northland’s Poor Knights Islands marine reserve is one of the planet’s top five diving sites. Learn to scuba, do a try dive or simply snorkel over the kelp forests, caves, rays and wrasses here. Or, from mid-June to early October, why not simply head to New Zealand to hit the ski slopes? CT
Catering to all-comers
Clockwise, from above: The epic Tongariro Alpine Crossing; tasting local oysters; a Maori cultural experience; Kauri Cliffs lodge; a seat at the Chef ’s Table, Blue Duck Station.
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“Succulent lamb and seafood, artisanal cheese, exceptional wine – dining across New Zealand is a delight.”
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Journey
RAILS to RICHES Steve King hops aboard the most luxurious (and expensive) train journey
in the Alps, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.
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overs of winter sports and linen tablecloths – and red carpets, white gloves, polished brass, gleaming marquetry, velvet upholstery and all the other trappings of a train de luxe – rejoice. The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE) has launched a 21-hour, once-a-year itinerary from Paris to Bourg-Saint-Maurice in the heart of the French Alps. The new route, which runs in late December, reflects a growing enthusiasm for slow, green and experiential travel. The train takes more than eight hours but generates less than 12 kilograms of CO2. However, it’s the experience that sets the VSOE apart – indeed, puts it in a class of its own. And with the tariff for a top compartment for two just shy of £10,000 ($19,355) per person and places on board selling out months in advance, you’d jolly well hope so. It’s a glorious throwback to a mode of travel grown so unfamiliar as to have become novel again. So old-fashioned it’s new-fashioned. This includes the historically authentic Heritage Cabins. They’re gorgeous. Jewel-like marvels of thoughtful, elegant design. But tiny. First-timers are often taken aback. (“Really? That’s it? And no shower? And a shared loo at the end of the carriage?”) Hence the popularity of the recently introduced Suite and Grand Suite
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The legend in motion
Clockwise, from above: A steward at your service; the Paris Grand Suite; evenings in the bar car; the scenic ride.
categories, which are respectively about two and three times bigger than Heritage Cabins, and have their own bathrooms. I’ve travelled in each of the three categories and can tell you that any additional space in your compartment makes a disproportionate difference. Most VSOE itineraries, like this one, are overnighters, with a handful of exceptions including Paris to Istanbul, which takes five nights. I started with a night in Paris beforehand, having arrived from London on the Eurostar. Because of the meticulously stage-managed nature of the whole VSOE performance, the before and after parts of the holiday can suffer in comparison. Not, however, on this occasion. I got off on absolutely the right foot at the Plaza Athénée. Though the hotel is famous for its window boxes overflowing with red geraniums (apparently the happy consequence of Marlene Dietrich’s affair with Jean Gabin), its inner courtyard was no less delightful in its wintertime guise, as an ice-skating rink illuminated by great cascades of fairy lights suspended from the rooftops. Combine that coup de théâtre with a sumptuous Second Empire-styled suite, a treatment at the luscious new Dior Spa and dinner at Jean Imbert au Plaza Athénée and I could almost have stayed put and forgotten about the Alps altogether. Cruise &Travel
5/3/2024 10:37 am
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Journey
VENICE SIMPLON-ORIENT-EXPRESS
Essentials
• The next Venice Simplon-OrientExpress departure to the French Alps is on December 19, 2024. Departing Paris’ Gare de l’Est at 15:20 and calling at Albertville (10:36), Moûtiers (11:38) and Bourg-Saint-Maurice (12:45). Prices range from £3785 ($7325) per person based on two sharing a Historic Cabin to £9975 ($19,307) per person for a Grand Suite. This includes a round-the-clock personal steward, meals accompanied by the sommelier’s choice of wine, unlimited soft drinks, coffee and tea, and transfers within Paris to Gare de l’Est. Grand Suite guests also enjoy a check-in service, champagne and caviar upon arrival in the Alps. Visit belmond.com for more information.
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Timeless glamour
Clockwise, from above left: The crew ready to serve; Montagnes Suite; time to relax as the stunning scenery unfurls.
But the mountains were calling. The train left the Gare de l’Est at 15:20. A couple of hours later we were somewhere in the Champagne region, following the course of the River Marne in the twilight. I raised a glass of fizz to the terroir outside from which it had sprung. The sky and the water were silvery blue, the rest of the landscape shadowy and indistinct. Soon it would be dark. The train’s windows would turn into mirrors, blinds would be drawn. I remembered a previous trip from Paris to Venice in the summer. It had an entirely different feel – more, I think, because of the season than the route. We were encouraged in advance to leap out of bed at dawn to admire the sun as it rose over – or rather between and around – the Alps. Of the early birds who did make an appearance around 5am, several were in their pyjamas. Somehow this contributed more to the joyful tone of the occasion than all the dinner jackets and spangled party frocks of the previous night put together. If this winter journey was necessarily more tucked-up and inward-looking, it was no less convivial. There’s only one service, in the week before Christmas, and it’s the VSOE’s last run of the year. The staff were excited about going home for the holidays while the passengers were excited about spending the festive season away from home, some in Chamonix, others in Courchevel and Val Thorens. The excitement increased as we got further into the mountains – and was mirrored in the expressions on the faces of local commuters unaccustomed to seeing the glossy blue carriages glide past their platforms. Everyone on the train, it seemed, was singing, almost all the time. Even the chef. Jean Imbert, the tousled French prodigy who succeeded Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée in 2022, was recruited to oversee the VSOE’s kitchen the following year. I chose to stay at the Plaza Athénée for that reason: I wanted to compare Imbert’s hotel and train cooking. But the result of my delicious experiment was inconclusive. Dinner in the plush, ornately mirrored dining car on the train was as satisfying as dinner in the plush, ornately mirrored dining room at the hotel. (On the train: leeks with black truffle, egg yolk and parmesan shortbread; Bresse chicken with Albufera sauce; hazelnut and coffee Yule log. At the hotel: brioche with caviar; lobster à l’américaine; plum soufflé pancakes.) “The problem with cooking at the hotel,” Imbert says, “is that I’ve got everything I could ever need at my disposal. The problem with cooking on the train is that I haven’t.” Which must be the only respect in which the VSOE observes a less-is-more policy. I alighted at Moûtiers, the gateway to the gigantic Trois Vallées ski area, on the dot of 11:38. A short drive brought me to Méribel, an extremely prepossessing resort. Trading my gently swaying suite for stationary piste-side luxury, I bunked down at Le Coucou. Its ski-in/ski-out location is unimprovable; the staff is young and friendly; and the look of the hotel is at once respectful of its context and endearingly playful. Nobody needs a reason to take the Venice-Simplon Orient Express. But if you did, getting to Méribel in fine style for Christmas and New Year would be as good a reason as any. CT Cruise &Travel
5/3/2024 10:38 am
A new era of travel
Clockwise, from left: All the tradition of luxury rail journeys; food by Chef Jean Imbert; a helping hand to board the heritage carriages; the detail in the Paris Grand suite.
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Hotels & Resorts
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WHITE LOTUS LIVE
Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 1:46 pm
Teresa Ooi sees what life is like in the luxury resort that is the star of The White Lotus, Season 3.
t
he ultra-high-end resort of Anantara Mai Khao Villas, with private villas each featuring a generous plunge pool, is to play host to 150 cast and crew of the hit HBO TV series, The White Lotus. Walton Goggins and Carrie Coon will star alongside Parker Posey, Michelle Monaghan and Jason Isaacs. But the big guessing game is: who gets murdered? Fans will not be able to see actress Jennifer Coolidge, who played popular Tanya McQuoid in the series. (Warning – last season spoiler: she was killed off.) In real life, the Thai resort is a favourite of Russian oligarchs, those mega-rich Russians with their young, svelte, imperiouslooking wives dressed in Fendi summer dresses and carrying Loewe beach bags. Since travel to the European Union has become increasingly difficult for Russians since the war with Ukraine, they’ve been flocking to Thailand. There is a distinct family vibe at Anantara Mai Khao during the holiday season, which opens the way for the White Lotus scriptwriters to deliver more teenage dramas, as they did in Season 1. The resort’s Sala villas are divine – they come with private plunge pools, separate dressing rooms, and huge bathrooms with double sinks, overlooking an outside spa bath that leads to the pool. Here, there’s also a comfortable cabana with a day bed, Cruise&Travel
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Lakeside luxury
XClockwise, from main: The resort centres around the waterlily-filled lake; plunge pool in Sala villa; view from Tree House restaurant; Sala villa interior.
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Hotels & Resorts also match your food with specially imported sake from Japan. Down by the infinity poolside bar, you can order fresh coconut, iced coffee or a cocktail – all served with an iced towel – a welcome relief from the scorching sun.
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ANANTARA MAI KHAO
Scene setters
XFrom top: Phuket’s most exclusive omakase restaurant, Anantara’s Tree House; Thai cooking classes; resort pool.
“All you have to do is sit back and pretend you are a White Lotus star sunbathing by the pool.” two sun lounges and a table and chairs perfect for sipping a cup of coffee or nibbling on Thai delicacies. If you must, you can work quietly on your laptop by the pool in the shade of the cabana. Inside the massive bedroom, which is decked out in dark teak wood, is a king-sized bed with an overhead fan, a day bed by one window and a desk and chair by another. There’s also an enormous cabinet where you will find a Nespresso coffee machine and a selection of Origin coffee capsules, a mini-fridge filled with champagne and top-level spirits – consumed at an extra cost, of course. Resort life in Anantara centres around the main La Sala restaurant which is surrounded by a lake filled with water lilies, hundreds of hungry fish and a resident monitor lizard – all irresistible to kids who squeal with delight as they feverishly feed the fish and lizard with fresh, daily baked bread from the breakfast buffet. It is also where we had our cooking lesson from Thai chef Kum who taught us how to make Thai-style chicken satay, tom yum soup, phat Thai noodles and the ever-sodelicious mango and sticky rice pudding – all exceptionally full of flavour. There’s a seaside Sea, Fire & Salt diner where we indulged in a sumptuous seafood buffet with a choice of Phuket lobster, seabass, prawns, mussels, oysters, Australian lamb chops and beef medallions, leg of ham, salads and a wide selection of amazinglooking desserts. The highlight of dining venues is at the Tree House restaurant which serves omakase cuisine – a mind-blowing experience where you are individually presented with a sumptuous selection of sashimi, sushi and other delicacies, all freshly flown in from Japan and artfully curated by Japanese-trained Thai chef Thiraphat. Chef Onn is a wizard with knives. Perhaps this is where the main murders take place? You can 110
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hen the sun sets on Mai Khao, the locals take their welltrained elephants for a walk on the beach – much to the delight of kids from the various resorts that front the beach. Nothing like sitting on the elephant’s trunk as she nozzles up to the kid and makes her squeal with utter delight while mum takes a photo. The elephant then takes a bow in front of the gathering children as word gets out that an elephant is walking on the beach. At Anantara, you are not short of things to do – there are three, all-weather tennis courts with rackets, balls, iced water and towels provided. You may want to buy a can of new tennis balls if you are a serious player, intent on beating your opponent. There is never a dull moment while walking to the tennis courts at the back of the resort – you pass a rabbit hutch, herb garden and duck pen where amorous ganders roam freely in search of their prey. There’s also a main pool by the seaside restaurant with shaded cabanas and sun lounges. You can go for a cycling tour to a nearby lake, have a Thai kickboxing lesson, rent a yacht for a cruise around the peninsula, arrange for a romantic private dining for two by the beach or simply chill out at the resort’s spa and wellness centre. Anantara supports the Mai Khao Marine Turtle Foundation, which protects sea turtles that lay their eggs on the beach, donating US$1 a room a night. We pay a quick visit to sister property Layan Residences by Anantara for cocktails at its cool rooftop bar. All the chic and beautiful guests hang out listening to Zuma music picked by a super-cool-looking female DJ. Built into the hillside at Layan are only 15 two-storey residences all with sea views and live-in butlers. Steak restaurant Age serves the finest Australian beef, imported directly from farm to plate. Filming of White Lotus is expected to focus on the resort’s exquisite beachfront and the main restaurant, La Sala. HBO has confirmed the series is set to begin production “in and around Koh Samui, Phuket and Bangkok”. The show’s creator, writer and director, Mike White, told Entertainment Weekly: “It’s going to be longer, bigger, crazier. I don’t know what people will think, but I am super excited.” Anantara Mai Khao Villas room rates start at about $1200 a night. Then all you have to do is sit back and pretend you are a White Lotus star sunbathing by the pool. CT
Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 1:48 pm
Frescobol Carioca Rafael Panama hat, $443.
Christian Louboutin Paquepapa espadrilles, $957.
Resort
Trunk Show
Casablanca silk shirt, $1445.
Zimmermann Acadian floral-print linen top, $450, and shorts, $395. Louis Vuitton Suzanne Etui Raquette, $3050. Saint Laurent camera bag, $2280. Ancient Greek Sandals Latria slides, $374.
Rimowa Essential Check-in bag, $1675. Hunza G Pamela crinkle-knit swimsuit, $295.
Dragon Diffusion Santa Croce leather tote bag, $600.
Eres Horizon linen midi dress, $2156. Gianvito Rossi Portofino 70 suede wedges, $1385.
Gopro Hero9 Black Camera, $594.
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Airlines
Bye bye,
BUBBLE
The most talked about obstacle to post-pandemic travel has been inflated flight prices. Has the bubble finally burst, asks Tallis Boerne Marcus.
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ata from Flight Centre reveals business-class and first-class airfares have dropped by about eight per cent. Flight Centre Corporate MD for ANZ/Global FCM COO Melissa Elf says, “We’ve spent some time now assuring our travellers that as airlines continue to recover, as capacity and competition comes back to the network, [they] would start to see the cost of travel drop. “We’re starting to see the signs of exactly that. And although we’ve still got some way to go in terms of getting back to full capacity, particularly internationally, there’s no doubt we’re beginning to feel the positive effects.” Skyscanner’s Australia Travel Expert, Jarrod Kris, says, “According to Skyscanner’s 2024 Travel Trends Report, travel remains a top priority for Aussies this year. Despite the rising cost of living and 42 per cent of Australians reporting flight costs as their highest cost factor, 35 per cent have admitted to budgeting the same if not more for travel compared to 2023.” However, this isn’t stopping the bookings from rolling in – and Kris predicts we are approaching a level of demand and competition that will see prices continue to drop. “When we look at this past December compared to December 2022, Australia has seen a 44 per cent increase in bookings. This
“There’s more room for prices to drop to destinations like the Middle East, New Zealand and North America.”
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indicates the increase of travel interest has no sign of slowing down. With January almost at an end, the travel industry appears to have a busy and exciting 2024 ahead of it. A whopping 40 per cent of Aussies are looking to increase their travel this year. Around 35 per cent [are] accounting for the cost-of-living and increasing their travel budget. “January is the peak booking time for many travellers, and across Skyscanner platforms we are seeing some record-breaking numbers as we start the year. Airlines and destinations will need to compete for this demand, and we are already seeing seat sales being put into the market to this effect.” Elf says that the regions that are experiencing price drops for Australians are those adding capacity, such as Southeast Asia, New Zealand and North America. “There’s more room for prices to drop to destinations like the Middle East, New Zealand and North America, for example, which are at pre-2019 capacity levels of 81 per cent, 86 per cent and 91 per cent respectively,” she says. “There’s still restricted capacity on European flights. And that’s the last frontier we need to conquer for customers to feel relief on routes to the likes of the United Kingdom, France and Italy. This is evidenced by softer airfare decreases to these destinations. “With demand into Europe high, it’s critical more flights and competition are added. The recent announcements, like the granting of slots to Turkish Airlines, being exactly what the industry needs for prices to drop even further.” Cruise specialist Sharon Summerhayes, owner of Deluxe Travel & Cruise, says Turkish
Airlines is making an impact for Australians looking to cruise. “It’s great news that we are getting a new international airline here,” she says. “I’m sure they’re going to shake things up! “My clients that have flown Turkish Airlines have had great experiences with them. Being the biggest airline by destination outside of the USA, they’re going to be a very convenient option for a lot of travellers.” Skyscanner has gathered data exclusively for Cruise & Travel on when are the best times that you can jet off to some of the hottest cruise destinations such as Europe, the Caribbean and Alaska. Kris says, “Every destination around the world has a month which is cheapest to book. Skyscanner also has the insight of which months have peak search volume for 2024. “For example, while there may be peak interest to travel to Athens in March and April (possibly for school holidays), the cheapest months show us October and November are the best time to fly. Alternatively, Rome’s peak search volume is May, aligned with the cheapest month.” CT
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i
Flight Review
UNITED AIRLINES
a POLARISING BUSINESS How a woke toothbrush says everything about United Airlines, writes Peter Lynch.
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t’s practicalities that count at 35,000 feet. You just want things that work. United Airlines recently revamped its Polaris business class offering. The result is two cheers and at least one raspberry. Take the toothbrush in the Polaris vanity set – obviously designed by a woke committee at a company offsite. It’s made of wood. Yeah! We’re saving the environment! And it’s got real bristles. There is only one problem with the brush – it doesn’t clean your teeth. Its pathetically weak bristles do no more than move the paste around in your mouth, while the ergonomically designed handle is too short for most human hands. Luckily, I never leave home without my trusty Singapore Airlines kit. No point in saving the planet with another object that won’t perform the function it has been designed for. United has been getting some good rap for the Polaris revamp, so I wondered if the airline had really changed. They’ve been stepping up flight numbers in a bid to capture the heavily contested Australian market, but Singapore Airlines and Emirates rule the skies here, alongside Qantas, so United will have to be smart. It has been a while since I’ve flown any American airlines. An ageing fleet and trolly dollies with attitude made United a no-go zone for me. With Asian and Middle Eastern airlines trying so hard to win my business, why would I want a flight attendant who looks like Joan Rivers on a bad day? However, my flight was to Miami, home of cruise, and United’s fare and connections made the airline compelling. My trip is a classic long haul – 15 hours to Houston and another two hours domestic to Miami.
/ So, what did I think? Well, the Polaris-class seats are better. The pod is nicely designed, with lieflat beds, good entertainment and storage for shoes and water. I’m even impressed with the PJs (only offered on flights longer than 14
Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 3:28 pm
hours). The custom Saks Fifth Avenue sleep set has a day blanket made from recycled plastic, a duvet and a cooling gel pillow. In the amenity kits designed by Therabody, you’ll find eye serum, facial spray, hand cream, lip balm, socks, ear plugs and an eye mask. It all comes in a handy bum bag. / Inflight dining The food was fresh and tasty – I had salmon and crab cakes along with the cheeseboard, selected from four options on the outward leg, though I was peremptorily told the beef had run out – odd, since we’d just taken off. On the way back, the salad with sauteed Cajun shrimp (large prawns to you and me) was delicious. The champagne is Charles Heidsieck Monopole Blue Top Brut – nice! Even being served in a blue plastic cup doesn’t change the fact that this is a top drop. Breakfast was, as with so many airlines, a sad affair. The spinach and fetta frittata certainly hadn’t survived the cooking process and, in a MasterChef masterstroke, the egg-white omelette tasted of absolutely nothing at all. / So, what’s my verdict? From the individual goodbye as we left the plane – “Thanks for choosing United, have a nice day” – to the better seat design, United has indeed lifted its game. Now, all they need to do is get a toothbrush that cleans teeth. CT Peter Lynch flew Polaris class to Miami on a Boeing 787 in December 2023.
United on the up
XClockwise, from above: Bedding down in Polaris class; tasty inflight dining; the Therabody kit; the Polaris cabin; a good night’s sleep.
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My Life In Travel
STANLEY TUCCI
“It was so bad it was funny.” The New York-born actor reveals his extensive list of travel destinations – good and bad – starting with a trip to Italy as a boy. I went to Florence when I was 12 for a year I had never been abroad before. I think we had been to Manhattan once or twice and I’d been to Vermont. Italy increased a love of art that was already there. Because my dad is an artist, I was always quite attuned to it: I would go into the classroom when he taught summer school and spend time with him there. When you go to Florence, though, you are seeing the kind of art that you never dreamt existed. We filmed my television series in Italy in 2019 and 2020 It [was] a great joy. I really can’t wait to go back and do it again. Of all the memorable meals I had, I keep returning to the spaghetti carbonara I ate in a restaurant called Pommidoro in Rome because it was extraordinary – just the quality of ingredients; the simplicity of it. It was unlike any carbonara I have ever tasted. There is no pattern to my travel – and that’s the trouble As an actor you never know what is happening at any given moment, so I didn’t plan holidays a lot. Suddenly you would think, “Oh, wait, I think I have a window here” and then you would do it. There was also a part of me that didn’t really want to go on vacation because I had travelled so much for work. I don’t anymore, so I am able to be a little pickier. I find projects that I can do from home, or when travelling for a very short time, because I don’t want to leave my family. When I was younger, I commuted 116
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a lot to Los Angeles from New York and that takes its toll on you. In the past we would typically go to Italy for a couple of weeks in summer and rent a house in Umbria or Le Marche But we also went to Sicily once, and to Puglia … We went on holiday in England… to the Cotswolds. We also try to go to Cornwall in the summer because it is so beautiful and great for the kids We rent a house and just go to the beach and cook a lot. We used to go to Mawgan Porth, which is wonderful. We [went] to Watergate Bay [near Newquay] … just my wife and I, for a few days – a little getaway. I don’t like anything that is over the top, where there are too many people waiting on you I find that a lot in certain resorts. It’s nice to be waited on and taken care of, but
Tucci on tour
Above: Tucci found his dream carbonara in Rome. From left to right: Tucci’s travel favourites, Florence, Cornwall and Gritti Palace, Venice.
sometimes you feel almost guilty about it even though you’re paying. I’m just like, “Oh, stop. I’m fine, I’ll pour it myself.” I favour comfort and luxury over adventurous travel I love hiking, but I’m not going to go rock climbing or hang gliding – and I don’t swim. But I love skiing and walking – and I love culture. I’m not one to just sit on the beach. If I’m on the beach, I’ll paint and sketch and things like that. I always have to be doing something. Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 3:26 pm
My worst travel experience was 40 years ago, when I went on holiday with my then girlfriend and we were put in some hotel on a tropical island whose name I can’t remember. It was awful. The hotel overlooked an oil refinery. It was so bad it was funny, so all we did was eat questionable food and drink a lot of margaritas. The Mandarin Hotels are incredible – and I’m not just saying that because I did an ad for them! They are amazing. I also loved the Gritti Palace in Venice. Staying in Venice, and eating there when it isn’t too crowded, is an extraordinary experience. I also love skiing in Deer Valley [in Utah]. I used to go with my late wife and the kids for years. I loved it there and also skiing in Zermatt [in Switzerland’s Valais region]. I’ve been there twice, and both were lovely experiences. Cruise &Travel
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I’ve always wanted to go to Japan I’ve been to China twice for work; I visited Hong Kong and Beijing when working on Transformers: Age of Extinction. Both were fascinating and the food was amazing. I’ve never been to Greece. Another of my favourite places is Iceland, where I went when I was working on [TV series] Fortitude I’m desperate to go back again. We flew into Reykjavik and then to a place about an hour’s flight away called Egilsstadir. It’s a tiny town in the middle of nowhere but it was beautiful. I had some of the best food that I’ve ever eaten anywhere. I would like to go up into Scandinavia, to Finland, Norway, Sweden and Denmark I’ve been to Copenhagen but only for a day doing a documentary. One of my dreams is to go and explore those fascinating northern countries. CT 117
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Last Word
Why you’re more likely to cry watching a movie at 35,000ft Your movie choice reveals a lot about you, your journey and your mindset, writes Hazel Plush.
M
aybe it’s a Mission Impossible, or a jaunt into the Marvel universe. Perhaps it’s a wild-card film you’ve never heard of, with a tiny budget and subtitles. Whatever your in-flight film choice, it reveals a lot about you, your journey and your mindset, says Maura Chacko – and she should know, because without her and her team, you might not be watching anything at all. Chacko is the Senior Vice President of Content Experience at Spafax, the leading global provider of in-flight entertainment, which curates the movies, TV shows and audio programs for many of the world’s major airlines, including British Airways, Qatar Airways, Etihad and Emirates. “The ‘comfort food’ content is so important,” says Chacko. “When you’re tired, anxious or stressed, you just want something reassuring and familiar, so the Friends box set or a BBC classic like Downton Abbey would be popular choices on evening flights. But for a daytime trip, when you’re feeling happy and alert, you might have more adventurous tastes – delving into a foreign-language film perhaps, or a more hard-hitting drama.” / Nudity or violence? It’s complicated The most popular genre? “Action and adventure, every time,” says Chacko, smiling. “Comedy comes next, but it doesn’t always translate well between languages and cultures – whereas the big-budget, eye-catching special effects of a Tom Cruise film are thrilling to almost everyone. That said, comedy classics like The Big Bang Theory and Friends are always top of the most-viewed charts.” If you find yourself responding more emotionally than usual, you’re not the only one. “Altitude and the whole flying experience make people more tearful when watching films,” says Chacko, “in the same way that they alter your taste buds.” 118
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Flights aren't like the cinema ... If it doesn’t grip me in the first few minutes, it’s out.”
On Emirates, the most-watched content of 2023 included Top Gun: Maverick, alongside the Lord of the Rings trilogy and all four of the John Wick hitman movies. The George Clooney and Julia Roberts rom-com Ticket to Paradise also came out tops, as did the visually stunning Avatar: The Way of Water. On Qantas, The White Lotus was another hit, with passengers collectively bingeing 300,000 hours of the second season last year. But some genres or themes are firmly off-limits for some airlines, says Julieta Bowyer, Spafax’s director of world content. “For example, films with nudity might be fine for a Scandinavian client, but violence for them is a no-no. Whereas a US-based airline might have a very low threshold for anything risqué, but be absolutely fine with violence.” / Forbidden topics Aviation-disaster plots are vetoed, of course, but also certain criticism of governments (“airlines
have all nationalities on board”) and shows that may be considered inflammatory to current geopolitical issues or conflicts. In December, for example, British Airways decided to “pause” Jewish sitcom Hapless from its in-flight entertainment, owing to alleged concerns it could trigger a backlash in the wake of the Israel-Hamas war – before pledging to reinstate it in the coming months. / A long way since VHS Chacko and Bowyer have seen the industry transformed. “When I started 16 years ago, in-flight entertainment worked on a tape system: all of an aircraft’s content came on a VHS … and was played on those screens that came down from the ceiling,” says Bowyer. Now, of course, we all carry our own screens. So, what’s the secret to success? “No slow burners,” says Bowyer. “Flights aren’t like the cinema, where you’ll stick with it. If it doesn’t grip me in the first few minutes, it’s out.” CT Cruise &Travel
4/3/2024 3:24 pm
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