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• MARINER OF THE SEAS • QUEEN VICTORIA • SUPERSTAR GEMINI • STAR CLIPPER • AVALON MYANMAR • AVALON VISTA
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FAN BINGBING ON HER FAVOURITE SHIP CELEBRITY DINING
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ONE HOLIDAY, ENDLESS ADVENTURES Mariner of the Seas®
8
YEARS
RUNNING
13
YEARS
RUNNING
BEST CRUISE OPERATOR, ASIA TTG Travel Awards 2008 – 2015
BEST CRUISE LINE TRAVEL WEEKLY Reader’s Choice Awards 2003 – 2015
PUT US ON YOUR NEXT HOLIDAY CHECKLIST
Mariner of the Seas® Cruise Escapades 3-NIGHT MALAYSIA EXPLORER CRUISE
4-NIGHT ISLES OF SOUTHEAST ASIA CRUISE
Singapore Departures: 2016 Oct 21, 28, Nov 11, 18, 25, Dec 2, 5, 16, 2017 Jan 6, Feb 17, 24, Mar 3, 17, 24 Port-of-call: Kuala Lumpur (Port Klang) or Penang
Singapore Departures: OR 2016 Oct 17, 24, 31, Nov 7, 14, 21, 28, Dec 8, 12, 19, 2017 Jan 2, 9, 27, 31, Feb 9, 13, 20, 27, Mar 13, 20 Ports-of-call: Kuala Lumpur (Port Klang), Langkawi, Phuket
5/7^-NIGHT SPICE OF SOUTHEAST ASIA CRUISE
OR Singapore Departures: 2016 Dec 23, 28 2017 Jan 13^, 20^#, Feb 4, Mar 6^ Ports-of-call: Port Klang (Kuala Lumpur), Penang, Langkawi, Phuket, Bangkok (Laem Chabang, Overnight)#, Ho Chi Minh City (Phu My)#
For more information or reservations, please contact Royal Caribbean International and representatives at • Brunei • India
(673) 223 4874 (9111) 4906 1000 (New Delhi)/ (9122) 4311 2000 (Mumbai) • Indonesia (6221) 3199 1312/38/39 • Malaysia (603) 7727 4835 / 6286 6292
• Philippines • Singapore • Sri Lanka • Thailand • Vietnam
(632) 894 3957 / 892 2701 to 03 (65) 6305 0033 (94) 114 704542 (662) 634 2882 / 634 8080 (848) 39 201 201 / 6291 2277
R OYA L C A R I B B E A N .CO M
With over 100 airlines serving more than 300 cities worldwide, Singapore is easily accessible via Changi Airport, a well-conected air hub.
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REVIEW: AMERICAN EMPRESS
Top Reasons to Cruise With Royal Caribbean DREAMWORKS EXPERIENCE
MINI GOLF
How about a game or two with your loved ones over mini golf overlooking the sea? Suitable for all ages, it is one of our best family-bonding activities onboard.
FINE DINING
Enjoy exceptional fine dining at our 3-tier Main Dining Room. Be served a sumptuous multicourse dinner by your dedicated waiters in the elegant setting.
Kung Fu Panda and all related characters and properties © 2015 DreamWorks Animation LLC.
Enjoy unforgettable moments with your favourite DreamWorks Animation characters and look forward to DreamWorks parades, photos opportunities, character meals, 3D movies and surprise appearances.
®
MAIN THEATRE
Visit our 2-storey Savoy Theatre for high-energy Broadway-style entertainment. You’ll be amazed at the awesome array of shows and performances.
BALCONY STATEROOM
ADVENTURE OCEAN YOUTH PROGRAMME
Wake up to sunrise unlike any other out at sea. Opt for a stateroom with a private balcony to truly soak in this moment of serenity with your loved ones.
Engage your precious ones with our complimentary award-winning Adventure Ocean® youth programme for ages 3 to 11 years. They’ll be entertained with fun activities by our qualified friendly staff while you unwind at ease.
ROCK-CLIMBING WALL
Challenge one another at our signature rock wall. Climb to 40 feet above deck and enjoy an unparalleled seaview.
ok
24-HOUR ROOM SERVICE
Enjoy breakfast in bed, at your balcony or in the comfort of your stateroom with our complimentary room service.* *Complimentary service from 5am to 11.59pm daily.
ICE-SKATING
Gear up for some fun and laughter at the ice-skating rink. Footwear is provided for your skating sessions. Enjoy spectacular ice shows by professional skaters from all over the world too!
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ROYAL PROMENADE
Liven up your nights at the Royal Promenade with DreamWorks parade, dancing and live band performances. The bustling boulevard is lined with fantastic dining and shopping options!
OUTDOOR MOVIE SCREENINGS
Movie, sea and stars – cosy up to your loved ones at our outdoor movie screenings for a night out like never before.
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RIVER CRUISING FROM A
UNIQUE POINT OF VIEW At Avalon, we share your unique point of view. That’s why we’ve designed a cruise experience that’s just a bit different. Spaces are bigger. Views are more epic. Excursions are more enriching. It’s a step beyond the ordinary, but knowing you, we think you’ll feel at home here. Welcome aboard.
POPULAR CRUISE
Roma n ti c Rhine Holland, Germany, France, Switzerland
8 days from US$2,746 per person twin share (departing 05/11/16 Cat E) Your Avalon cruise includes meals & drinks on board, luxurious accommodation, sightseeing with Local Guides and exclusive Local Favourites.
For bookings & information, see your agent or visit: Philippines: avalonwaterways.com.ph Malaysia: avalonwaterways.com.my | Indonesia: avalonwaterways.co.id Singapore: avalonwaterways.com.sg | Thailand: avalonwaterways.in.th
now available
2 for 1
on select 2016 cruises.
See our website for details
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REVIEW: AMERICAN EMPRESS
*Terms and conditions apply: Prices are based on rates (including foreign exchange rates) known at time publication and are subject to change; itinerary is also subject to change. Prices are per person twin share and include port charges. Valid for singles-single supplement applies. Non-refundable, non-transferable deposit of $500pp/per cruise required within 7 days of booking to secure reservation. Offers can be withdrawn or amended at any time. Additional restrictions may apply. For full terms and conditions see the 2016 Avalon Waterways brochure or visit the avalon waterways website.
www.cruisepassenger.com.au
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WELCOME
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WELCOME
Cruise&Travel ASIA
Issue 01, Summer 2016
Welcome to a new world of wonders W
elcome to the first edition of Asia’s new cruise magazine – another milestone in the region’s growing love affair with holidays on the water. Cruise&Travel Asia – and its newsletter and website cruiseandtravelasia.com – have been created to keep Asia on top of the amazing cruise developments on our doorstep. There is no better example of this than the arrival in June of Ovation of the Seas (see page 16). This awesome machine is the epitome of today’s cruise vessel – 16 decks designed to please almost 5,000 mainly Asian cruisers with the latest in technology, fine dining and entertainment. There are 18 dining options, from a noodle house to Jamie Oliver’s Italian. There is a surf simulator, skydiving, a 90-metre high observation pod, rock climbing, kids’ water park, robot barmen and high-tech shows. The ship is filled with relics borrowed from the Forbidden City Imperial Palace Museum and lecturers who can tell you all about them. Of course, there is a shopping mall filled with big-name brands and a huge casino. Finding a resort with all of this, and that transports you to new places every day without the hassles of air travel, is impossible. Not that Asia’s new cruise fans need much convincing. Over the past three years, more than two million cabins on more than 50 ships have been filled from local ports. And while the rest of the world is waking up to the fascinating destinations of Asia and seeing them from our ships, more than 1.4 million of those cabins were filled by local passengers. And that number is growing more than 30 per cent, mainly with young families. Cruise holidays come in an enormous variety, from ocean ships to small luxury vessels, river ships plying the Mekong, the Irrawaddy and the romantic waterways of Europe, and expedition ships taking passengers to see the wonders and wildlife of the Arctic and Antarctic. You’ll find them all here in our magazine, at our website and in our newsletter each week. Cruise&Travel Asia is brought to you by editors and writers who have been covering the growth of cruise for almost 20 years. So they know their subject and are looking forward to sharing their knowledge with you. Inside these pages is all you need to start that journey, which is why we advise our readers: don’t book a cruise without checking with us! We’d love to hear your cruise stories, see your pictures or know what you think we should be covering to make your holidays happier at: tellus@cruiseandtravelasia.com
Teresa Ooi
Executive Editor, Cruise&Travel Asia
Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter@cruiseandtravelasia.com Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@cruiseandtravelasia.com Contributing editor Lucy Jones Art director/production manager Catherine Martin Sub editor Sandy McPhie Advertising director Leisa Chell leisa@cruiseandtravelasia.com Singapore Associate Steven Hopkinson steven@cruiseandtravelasia.com Online editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@cruiseandtravelasia.com Digital director James Brouard Contributors and writers Sue Bryant, Bernadette Chua, Tenorio Jr Cresencio, Roderick Eime, Steven Hopkinson, Lucy Jones, Peter Lynch, Bo Mathisen, John Oakley, Teresa Ooi, Sylvia Toh Paik Choo, Nick Walton Online subscriptions cruiseandtravelasia.com/magazine See page 97 for magazine distribution Printed by Times Printers Private Limited 16 Tuas Avenue 5, Singapore 639340
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CRUISE MEDIA AUSTRALASIA
Cruise&Travel Asia is published on behalf of Cruise&Travel Media Pty Ltd by Cruise Media Australasia Suite 3, Level 2, 37 Bligh Street Sydney 2000 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9231 3518 Managing director Peter Lynch All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Copyright Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only. No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided. Always consult your travel agent.
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CONTENTS
Summer
INSIDE
28
2016 9-27 Cruise News
2016 cruise trends; ships made for China; Crystal Cruises expansion; Ovation of the Seas preview; godmother Fan Bingbing; Harmony of the Seas launches; the new Dream Cruises; fashion shows afloat.
Each edition, we review the cruise fleet. We’ve been on board Ovation of the Seas, Mariner of the Seas, Star Clipper, SuperStar Gemini and Queen Victoria. See Page 28
SHIP REVIEWS
28-31 Mariner of the Seas
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Food, fun and entertainment. Sylvia Toh Paik Choo tries to fit it all in on one fivenight Spice of Southeast Asia cruise.
32-33 Star Clipper
Romance is in the wind as Star Clippers returns one of its tall ships to Southeast Asia. Roderick Eime samples life under sail.
35-37 SuperStar Gemini More ships, new itineraries and fresh destinations open up an exciting new world of travel for Asia. This special report brings you the highlights. See Page 42
Steven Hopkinson skips the airport queues and takes his family on a relaxing long weekend cruise of Malaysia.
38-41 Queen Victoria
81 32
Nick Walton falls under the spell of Cunard’s old-world charm, and discovers the line is out to woo wealthy Asians.
ASIAN CRUISE REPORT
42-45 Cruise boom
Cruising is seeing a rapid rise in popularity in Asia, especially on short itineraries in the region. We check out the popular destinations.
46-47 Asia goes luxe
The luxury market is poised for growth and Asia will reap the rewards.
48-49 Port profile: Phuket Our regular section covering the off-beat takes a scenic rail journey, meets celebrity chefs, covers cosmetic treatments, and more. See page 69
Thailand’s largest island is a popular port renowned for shopping and water sports.
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Cover: Jessica Minh Anh aboard Costa Luminosa. Photograph by John Oakley
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50-51 Another road to Mandalay
A new boutique river ship explores Myanmar’s fascinating Irrawaddy River.
52-56 Cut Crystal
Teresa Ooi boards Crystal Symphony to test the legendary service of the most-awarded luxury line at sea.
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CONTENTS
37
82
DON’T MISS OUT HUNDREDS MORE CRUISE VACATION IDEAS AT CRUISEANDTRAVELASIA.COM
Cruise Travel ASIA
ISSUE 01 SUMMER 2016
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REVIEWS
• MARINER OF THE SEAS • OVATION OF THE SEAS • QUEEN VICTORIA • SUPERSTAR GEMINI • STAR CLIPPER
STANDING OVATION
FAN BINGBING ON HER FAVOURITE SHIP CELEBRITY DINING
BEST CHEFS AT SEA
FREE!
Asia' s Cruise Boom SHIPS, DESTINATIONS & BEST DEALS CRUISEplus
ASIA BY LUXURY TRAIN + COSMETIC SURGERY + RESORT REPORT
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BUY ONLINE FOR YOUR QUARTERLY FIX OF GREAT CRUISE NEWS, DEALS & REVIEWS FOR JUST
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58-59 The big trip: Europe
History, glamour, gourmet food – no wonder Europe is an Asian favourite.
80-81 Right on course
Tee off with golf-themed cruises, onboard course simulators and pro tuition.
60-63 The Blue Danube
REGULARS
64-67 True north
82 Resort report: Philippines 86 Hotel review: Mandarin Oriental 88 Airline review ScootBiz 90 Shopping: Duty free on board 93 Port Reports: Asian favourites 96 Last Word: Cruise ship dancers
Tenorio Jr Cresencio cruises the famous river through Germany and Austria. Another favourite, Canada and Alaska deserves to be explored by land and sea.
CRUISE PLUS
+
A COPY
FREE NEWSLETTER + FREE ASIA CRUISE YEARBOOK
70-73 Murder on the Orient Express? Southeast Asia by rail on Belmond’s Eastern and Oriental Express.
74-77 Celebrity dining
Famous chefs are taking their culinary expertise to sea.
78-79 Sea change
A cruise holiday could be the ideal time for some cosmetic treatments.
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CRUISEANDTRAVELASIA.COM cruiseandtravelasia.com
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EXPLORE! THE!WORLD! WITH!HOLLAND!AMERICA!LINE Cruise in classic style to more than 400 destinations in the comfort of a well-appointed, mid-size ship. Encounter fascinating lands and cultures. And make lasting memories on a Holland America Line cruise.
Contact your local travel professional or visit www.hollandamerica.com
Cruisenews
OCEAN
•
RIVER
PAGE 12
How China is changing the face of cruise
•
ADVENTURE
PAGE 16
First Review: Asia’s new megaship
•
CRUISE NEWS
PORTS
PAGE 23
World’s largest liner launches
Dive! Dive! Dive! Asian titan takes luxury cruising to exciting new heights – and depths. Page 14
New Crystal Esprit carries a two-passenger submarine
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CRUISE NEWS: TRENDS
Big ships, big names and big ideas – there’s plenty to look forward to in cruise this year reports Teresa Ooi. Big ships
new
WHAT’S FOR
2016
It looks like the mantra “the bigger the better” will be the recurring theme this year as international cruise lines compete to launch the world’s biggest cruise ships. Royal Caribbean’s Harmony of the Seas wins the race. Weighing 227,000 tonnes, Harmony is 362 metres long and can accommodate more than 6,000 passengers. Everything on board is over-sized: a 10-storey water slide; the largest kids’ park at sea; and a death-defying slide called The Abyss. Harmony launched in Europe in May. Not to be left out, Asia will get its own cruise behemoth, Ovation of the Seas with 5,000 passengers, when it arrives in Singapore in June en route to Tianjin, China, where it will homeport for several months before heading for Hong Kong, then Australia for the southern wave season in December. Norwegian Cruise Line launched its biggest ship last year. Norwegian Escape caters for 4,248 passengers, weighs 164,600 tonnes and has 16 decks. And it doesn’t stop there. MSC Cruises and Costa Cruises have plans to outdo these megaships, launching vessels that will carry up to 6,600 from 2019.
Famous faces Cruise ships are also going for celebrity chefs who offer exclusive market tours where passengers can pick fresh ingredients and learn how to cook them. Vietnamese-Australian chef Luke Nguyen will accompany Clockwise from top: artist’s rendering of Scenic Eclipse; Norwegian Escape; surf simulator on Ovation of the Seas 10
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CRUISE NEWS: TRENDS Norway will continue to grow in popularity thanks to the 2013 movie Frozen, which was inspired by its stunning scenery. Since Norway is usually an expensive country to tour on land, cruises offer a value-driven alternative.
Taking flight
passengers on Mekong River cruises on the on AmaLotus later this year. And if you prefer Thai street food, renowned Australian chef David Thompson will be on board Aqua Mekong, which also plies the mighty Mekong. Oceania’s French chef, Jacques Pepin, offers market tours and gastronomic feasts at specialist restaurants in Europe. Celebrity dining – page 74.
New destinations Cuba is fast becoming the hot destination this year. Since the US lifted its embargo on Cuba, more international cruise ships are lining up to visit from Miami. Carnival’s new Adonia with 710 passengers will be one of the first to call at Havana and Italian line MSC has also homeported a ship there. Since the military government lifted its selfimposed isolation of Myanmar, cruising on the Irrawaddy from the old capital of Mandalay to Bagan has become the hot destination in Asia. Upmarket river lines that cruise the Irrawaddy include APT, Avalon Waterways, Pandaw, Belmond and Sanctuary Retreats. Other hotspots include Costa Rica, an eco-and-adventure-packed destination that has attracted boutique operator Windstar to base two of its ships there.
Cruise lines are taking to the air with the launch of Crystal Cruises’ Crystal Luxury Air in April. The line is flying a Bombardier Global Express XRS jet to accommodate 12 passengers who prefer to fly privately and customise their Crystal vacations. It plans to add a Boeing 787 Dreamliner and Boeing 777 next year to carry under 100 passengers on luxury air cruises. Crystal Cruises’ butlers will be trained as flight attendants and food will be prepared by celebrity chefs. Celebrity Cruises is also launching Jet Set Sail, an exclusive private charter from the UK to the Mediterranean on selected itineraries.
Longer in port Traditionally, cruise ships arrive in port early in the morning and are ready to set sail again before sunset. Passengers have limited time in a destination and no opportunity to see the nightlife of a city. Now lines are shuffling their
schedules to spend longer in port or adding overnight stays in the most exciting ports. Azamara Club Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Viking Ocean Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Seabourn, Silversea and Oceania Cruises all offer overnight stays. Passengers can spend two days exploring the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg, check out the nightlife in St Tropez, ring in the New Year in Sydney or take in a Broadway show on an evening in New York. Lines are also pushing back their departure times to late at night, allowing passengers to have dinner and explore the city after dark.
Adventure goes ultra luxe Luxury expedition cruising is fast emerging as the hottest market in the industry. Three lines have Clockwise from above left: Luke Nguyen in Vietnam; Oceania Cruises Culinary Tour; Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg; colourful Cuba; Crystal Luxury Air jet
announced major new ships to launch in 2018. Australian line Scenic was the first to announce a new ship, the 114-suite Scenic Eclipse. The ship will have a safety ranking of ice class 1A Super – a new benchmark for passenger ships. It will operate over 20 cruise itineraries around the globe, carrying two twinengine helicopters, custom-built Zodiacs, a 240-seat theatre, heated pools and a submarine. Crystal Cruises was quick to fire back, announcing its own luxury discovery yacht, Crystal Endeavor. All suites will be a minimum of 400 square feet and the two luxurious Owner’s Suites will be a massive 3,122 square feet and feature two bedrooms, a private conservatory and garden, and an outdoor Jacuzzi. The ship will be stocked with plenty of toys, including two helicopters, two seven-person submarines, eight Zodiacs, jet skis and wave runners. French line Ponant has announced it will be building four new expedition ships with the first to launch in 2018. At 128 metres in length and with just 92 staterooms, the new ships continue Ponant’s philosophy of intimate, smallcapacity vessels. Their size allows them to reach destinations that larger ships cannot. They will be ice-class and equipped with the latest technologies, including environmental protection technology.
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CRUISE NEWS: NEW SHIPS
SUITE & SOUR OF
The pool’s out and the cocktail bar’s empty. Lucy Jones discovers China’s growing influence is already making a difference to vessel design.
T
hey came. They saw. And now they are conquering. Chinese travellers are the biggest new force in tourism and every area of the industry around the world is feeling the impact, including cruise. Between 2012 and 2014, the number of Chinese cruisers grew by a staggering 79 per cent a year. In 2016, there will be more than one million cruise passengers from China. By 2030, there will be seven million. China has the potential to become the largest cruise market in the world – and the industry is taking notice. International lines are scrambling to send ships to China. And now they are building billion-dollar ships specifically for China’s new breed of cruise passenger. 12
Tailoring a ship specifically for the Chinese market is a delicate balance for lines that want to maintain their unique characteristics while offering a product that appeals to local cruisers. Basic changes, such as translating signage and hiring Mandarinspeaking crew, are simple. It’s the finer points that are still a work in progress. China expert Christopher Beam from Bloomberg believes lines must rethink the whole cruise experience, from food to decor to the way in which a rapidly capitalising society thinks about class and luxury. He found that many Chinese cruisers he spoke with disliked the democratisation of luxury that seems inherent in cruising. Those who had paid for the most expensive
packages felt they weren’t receiving enough special treatment. They want to be treated very differently to people who have paid less. So what are cruise lines building into the fleet now targeting China? More shopping Duty-free shopping is one of the main drawcards on international ships. With import taxes of up to 40 per cent on luxury goods in China, passengers are eager to purchase discount perfume, electrical goods and designer labels. All ships sailing in China expand their shopping areas, often sacrificing a bar, theatre or cinema. Ports and shore excursions are tailored around shopping, too, taking passengers to huge electronics stores or pharmacies to stock up on items not available in China. Bigger casinos Huge gaming floors are in operation almost continuously, with slot machines and tables for poker and blackjack, as well as popular Asian games such as baccarat or sic bo.
OVATION PHOTOGRAPH: BO MATHISEN/PHOTOFILMARCHIVE.COM
Chinese cruising
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CRUISE NEWS: NEW SHIPS
Norwegian Joy, clockwise from above: Serenity Park, Haven Court restaurant, cabin and Observation deck. Opposite: Ovation of the Seas casino.
You’ll also find special roped off areas for the real high rollers, betting far more than they have spent on their cruise fare. Asian dining The most obvious change is the food. Ships replace whole restaurants with new Asian cuisines or adapt the buffet to feature local offerings, such as congee for breakfast, bubble tea and noodle bars. Chinese guests eat earlier and faster than Westerners, meaning the kitchens have to move a lot quicker. Most lines keep Western options on the menu, reasoning that many Chinese tourists travel to experience something new. Group activities Government restrictions mean Chinese travellers have to cruise as part of a tour group and once on board, they tend to favour organised group activities. Asian ships offer tai chi at dawn, line dancing classes in the afternoon and kung fu movies at midnight. The average Chinese cruiser is not looking to lie by the pool or read a book. One ship based in Shanghai even removed its spa because no one had time to use it. Mainlanders are not big drinkers either. Bars and clubs on these ships are frequently empty. They do like to smoke, however, and many will ignore onboard bans.
The expanding Chinese fleet Costa Cruises was the first international line to enter the Chinese market in 2006. By 2017 it will have five ships sailing in Asia, with the arrival of Costa Fortuna in April and Costa neoRomantica next year. Though the line brands itself as “Italy at Sea”, all ships have been adapted for local cruisers. The Costa Group has also announced two new ships designed for the Chinese market to be launched in 2019 and 2020. In 2014, Royal Caribbean announced it would homeport its latest and greatest ship, Quantum of the Seas, in China after just one season in the Caribbean. Two years later, sister ship Ovation of the Seas is also heading east, to be based in Tianjin. In 2016, five Royal Caribbean ships will be homeported in China. Richard Fain, CEO of Royal Caribbean International, told Cruise&Travel Asia the line has a strong focus on Chinese staff, trained at a school in Tianjin. “The Tianjin
school works beautifully because we have hotels and the prospective staff can work in the hotels, get experience and we can train them at our leisure. We have a bar, cabins and restaurants where staff can practice,” he said. Princess Cruises moved Sapphire Princess to Shanghai in 2014 and recently announced a new ship, Majestic Princess, to be built for the Chinese market. MSC Cruises brought its first ship to China in May this year, homeporting MSC Lirica in Shanghai. Carnival is moving Carnival Miracle and Carnival Splendor from the US to China in 2017 and 2018. Norwegian Cruise Line will launch its first purpose-built ship for the market in mid-2017. Norwegian Joy will also have a Chinese name, Xi Yuè Hào. As well as a huge shopping complex, the ship will have a twolevel go kart track, hovercraft bumper cars and high-speed waterslides. Last July, SkySea Golden Era set sail, the first ship for the new SkySea Cruises line. It’s the first joint venture between a mainstream cruise line, Royal Caribbean, and a Chinese agency. It’s also the most comprehensive overhaul of a ship for the market. Previously sailing for Celebrity Cruises as Celebrity Century, the ship is now almost unrecognisable inside. Additions include two new restaurants, a karaoke room, mini golf course, pharmacy and VIP cabanas by the pool. The cinema was converted into an arcade, increasing the duty-free retail area by 50 per cent. SkySea also wanted to change the culture on board, starting with hiring a Chinese cruise director. SkySea plans to roll out one ship a year. The enormous mainland Chinese market poses a dilemma for cruise lines. One of their key attractions for many Southeast Asian and Western cruisers is the chance to mix and make friends with many nationalities. Whether Chinese cruisers will tire of ships designed to make them feel they haven’t left China remains to be seen. cruiseandtravelasia.com
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CRUISE NEWS: CRYSTAL CRUISES
The Asian titan transforming
luxury cruise
Since purchasing Crystal Cruises last year, Genting Hong Kong has launched an ambitious expansion plan for the luxury line. Bernadette Chua reports.
W
hen Genting’s CEO Tan Sri Lim Kok was told the German shipyards that he had chosen to build his cherished new fleet of Crystal Cruises ships wouldn’t put his order at the top of their build list, he demonstrated his determination to succeed. He bought all three yards. It is a salutary tale to those in the cruise industry who don’t understand how important it is for this Asian business titan and gambling business billionaire to win. So when his company says it intends to create a new luxury lifestyle brand dominating the high-end cruise market, you’d better buckle up and enjoy the ride. Genting Hong Kong purchased Crystal Cruises in 2015 for about US$550 million. It already owned Star Cruises, but the line known for its “cruises to no-where” wasn’t enough.
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Crystal was a phenomena. It consistently ranked among the top luxury brands in the world. For more than a decade, Crystal won an unprecedented number of top awards across multiple categories, including Travel + Leisure magazine’s “World’s best”. With the backing of Genting, it now has a roster of new-builds to rival any line in the world. It is creating three luxury cruise divisions – Crystal Cruises, Crystal Yacht Cruises and Crystal River Cruises. And the line has launched Crystal Luxury Air with a 12-passenger Bombardier Global Express charter plane to carry cruise passengers. It plans to add two new planes in the next two years – a Boeing 787 Dreamliner and a Boeing 777. Earlier this year, Crystal also announced it was considering purchasing the SS United States, in the 1950s the world’s fastest luxury liner and now a rotting hulk. Restoring it
could cost more than US$800 million. But the gain in prestige would be enormous. The line’s first new ship under Genting was Crystal Esprit, a 62-guest yacht that sails the Seychelles, Dubai and along the Adriatic Coast. Esprit is a reimagining of Genting’s Megastar Taurus, which underwent a multimillion dollar makeover to join the Crystal fleet. It will launch another, larger yacht, Crystal Endeavor, in 2018. Crystal Cruises chief executive and president Edie Rodriguez told Cruise&Travel Asia there is a wealth of expensive toys on Crystal Esprit including two 10-passenger Zodiacs, a casino, water skis and a two-passenger submersible. Experiences include deep-sea fishing and scuba diving in the Seychelles, river rafting in Croatia, quad biking in Cyprus and trekking to the sacred site of Delphi in Greece. Crystal Esprit offers guests an array of dining choices around the clock, from smallbites and midnight snacks through to casual lunches as well as multi-course dinners. Onboard eateries include The Yacht Club, the Patio Café, the Sunset Bar & Grill, The
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CRUISE NEWS: CRYSTAL CRUISES
CRYSTAL’S BIG ROLLOUT Luxury Air
Crystal Esprit: sailing by night; bedroom; Patio Café
Crystal took to the skies in April with a 12-seat Bombardier Global Express XRS jet. The plane is decked out with leather executive seating and has three spacious cabins, which can accommodate business activities, dining and relaxation, and sleeping quarters. There is also a full galley and all the technological features needed for conducting business. Chartered flights aboard Crystal’s Global Express jet will fly guests just about anywhere in the world, with a maximum flight range at just under 12 hours per leg. The line plans to add a Boeing 777 to its fleet in 2017 and a Boeing 787 Dreamliner in 2018, offering exclusive 14- and 28-day around-theworld itineraries. The luxury aircraft will be redesigned with flat-bed exclusive class seating for 52-88 guests. Trips will include accommodation at the world’s most luxurious hotels and the finest cuisine prepared by celebrated chefs.
Yacht Class
Yacht Cruises
Crystal Endeavor will launch in August 2018, joining Crystal Esprit in Crystal’s luxury Yacht Class. The purpose-built expedition megayacht will carry up to 200 passengers and chart a new course to polar regions. It will have two helicopters, two landing pads, two submarines, Zodiacs, jet skis and equipment for scuba diving, kayaking and fishing. Exclusive Class
River Cruises
Pantry and, of course, private in-suite dining. Europe’s rivers are heaving with shipping lines. But Crystal believes there is room for one more. Crystal River Cruises is launching ships to serve destinations on the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers with each ship accommodating up to 110 guests. Another two vessels will each accommodate 84 guests and cruise on the Seine, Garonne and Dordogne rivers plus the Gironde estuary. To get things going, Genting purchased one of Europe’s largest river cruisers, Mozart, which is currently undergoing extensive rebuilding to upgrade it to Crystal luxury class. It will be recommissioned in July as Crystal Mozart. On the ocean-front, Crystal will be building three new cruise ships under the Crystal Exclusive Class. All three ships will be designed with polar ice-rating and will accommodate 1,000 passengers.
Crystal Mozart will launch on July 13 this year to cruise the Danube River. It will be the first and largest of Crystal’s river ships. Crystal Debussy, launching next June, will sail the River Seine from Paris. Crystal Bach, also launching in June, 2017, will sail the Rhine River. Crystal Ravel, launching August, 2017, will sail the Garonne and Dordogne rivers and the Gironde estuary. Crystal Mahler, launching August 2017, will sail the Rhine, Main, Danube rivers. It will offer the longest itinerary of the Crystal River Cruises fleet at 16 days.
Exclusive Class
Three new Crystal Exclusive Class cruise ships will be launching from late 2018. The polar-class vessels will give passengers the opportunity to enjoy expedition cruising with all of Crystal’s luxury features and amenities. The first to launch will be an all-suite, all-balcony ship for 1,000 guests. The new ships will also offer another first – opulent Residences with private facilities, dining venues and amenities.
Crystal Mozart
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CRUISE NEWS: OVATION OF THE SEAS
Panda power
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conic burger joint Johnny Rockets has become The Kung Fu Panda Noodle Bar. Her godmother is Fan Bingbing (see page 20), China’s biggest movie star. Welcome to Ovation of the Seas, Royal Caribbean’s third Quantum-class ship, and the first it has built specially for Asian cruisers. Like its older sisters, Quantum and Anthem of the Seas, Ovation has some innovative features that are the first of their kind at sea – an observation capsule that can be raised more than 90 metres above the waves, a bumper car rink that can also be used for roller-blading and trapeze lessons, and a sky-diving simulator. These innovations have been pulling in the crowds since Quantum launched in October 2014 and Anthem in March 2015. But Ovation is different. She is the first to be built for the Asian market rather than being adapted. Her christening in Tianjin, China, on June 24 will be a celebration of how the cruise industry is conquering the world’s most populous nation. The ship has bilingual signage throughout, in English and Mandarin – everywhere from the restaurants to the safety notices on the back of cabin doors. By the time Ovation reaches Tianjin after a 53-night “Global Odyssey” from Southampton in the UK, 30 per cent of the customer-facing crew will be Chinese speakers. On the bridge, Norwegian-born Captain Henrik Loy has a Chinese officer as part of his team. From the outside, the most obvious China connection is the charming tableau high on Deck 15, at the entrance to the SeaPlex sports centre. Where Quantum features a pink polar bear and Anthem has 16
Above: giant panda sculpture and art works. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Windjammer Café; North Star observation pod; Kung Fu Panda Noodle Bar; Red Thread by Bieli Liu; ship’s interior
a giant giraffe in a swimming costume and rubber ring, Ovation plays host to a six-and-a-half ton mother panda reaching down to her three-metre tall baby. The statue, created by British-based artist Jo Smith, was chosen as a symbol of good luck in Chinese culture, and is intended to bestow peace and prosperity on the ship’s Chinese guests. The pandas are also a nod in the direction of the World Wildlife Fund, with whom Royal Caribbean recently struck a US$5 million, five-year partnership aimed
at ensuring the long-term health of the oceans. Ovation’s crew has been invited to come up with suitable names for the pair. In a unique collaboration with China’s Forbidden City Imperial Palace Museum, the ship will offer displays of historical relics and host experts to hold talks about the Imperial Palace in Beijing. Throughout the ship, the US$4.5 million art collection was assembled to represent Ovation’s destinations and guests, and was inspired by the words of Confucius: “Wherever you go, you go with all your heart.” One highlight piece greets passengers as they step inside for the first time from the deck 5 promenade into the Royal Esplanade. Sky Wave is claimed to be the first kinetic sculpture at sea. The installation pivots and oscillates to mirror the flow of wind and water. Guests on my pre-inaugural sailing could not decide whether the individual moving pieces were supposed to be feathers or Koi carp. Royal Caribbean refers to them as petals. In prime position at the centre of the ship’s Rotunda, flanked by Jamie Oliver’s Italian restaurant, Vintages wine bar and the Cartier shop, is a stunning piece called Red Thread. The work of Chinese artist Bieli Liu, it is adapted from one of her Lure series and it represents an ancient Chinese legend about invisible threads that hold children to their soul mates. On every stairwell landing there are intriguing and fascinating pieces of art, most of them with an Asian connection. Figures by Zheng Lu balance outside the spectacular entertainment venue, Two70, at the stern of the ship. The glittering Water Dragon sculpture was inspired by the artist’s father, a Chinese poet, but the acrobatic
PHOTOGRAPHY: BO MATHISEN/PHOTOFILMARCHIVE.COM
Built specifically for Asia, the new Ovation of the Seas sports a giant panda sculpture, a Kung Fu Panda Noodle Bar, 18 dining venues and the latest high-tech entertainment, including surfing and skydiving simulators. John Honeywell gets a preview.
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CRUISE NEWS: OVATION OF THE SEAS
FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Royal Caribbean VESSEL: Ovation of the Seas STAR RATING: 4 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 4,905 TOTAL CREW: 1,500 PASSENGER DECKS: 16 ENTERED SERVICE: 2016 TONNAGE: 168,666 FACILITIES: 18 dining options including specialty restaurants; SeaPlex; Bionic Bar; high-tech theatre; casino; skydiving simulator; surf simulator; observation pod; rock-climbing wall; kids’ water park; three pools; four hot tubs; adults-only Solarium; fitness centre; Vitality spa. BOOKINGS: Four-night Best Of Fukuoka Cruise, departing Tianjin, China, August 22, priced from US$1,250 per person twin share (inside cabin). See royalcaribbean.com
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CRUISE NEWS: OVATION OF THE SEAS pose echoes the feats performed nightly inside Two70 itself. It cost US$13.5 million to build and equip the multi-function venue – more expensive than Royal Caribbean’s first ship, Song of Norway. During the day the double-height space serves as a bar and cafe, with a library and studio on the upper level. There’s seating for 500 and passengers can relax with a drink and a snack while gazing at the ship’s wake through enormous 270-degree windows. At night, those windows become a vast screen for projected footage of breath-taking scenes from around the world, or a virtual concert by an orchestra or rock band. Overhead is one of the most complex robotics projects anywhere in the world – six high-definition LED screens mounted on robotic arms suspended from a moving gantry. The venue is home to Spectra’s Cabaret, a show that blends music and acrobatics, with singers rising from concealed lifts in the floor and aerialists descending on cables from the ceiling. There’s more spectacle in the ship’s 1,300-seat theatre. Live.Love.Legs comes from the same creative team behind Sequins & Feathers on Quantum of the Seas. The
Dream chronicles, in music and dance, the story of a man who is visited by his departed soul mate. Alongside the blackjack and roulette tables in the casino, there are more baccarat tables than I have ever seen on a ship and a cordoned-off VIP area for high rollers. Finally, the food – top of most people’s lists when it comes to cruising. There have been surprisingly few adaptations for the Asian market. Johnny Rockets burger bar has been replaced by the Dreamworksthemed Kung Fu Panda Noodle Bar, and the Solarium Café features hotpot specialities. Silk – whose larger tables each have a
lazy Susan in the middle – will no doubt be the most popular of Ovation’s four main dining venues (all complimentary) and the Windjammer buffet serves specialities ranging from congee for breakfast to curries and sweet-and-sour at lunch and dinner. The most controversial change that Ovation brings is an extra charge for some of its unique facilities. The reason, says Royal Caribbean, is to manage demand on some of the shorter Chinese itineraries. Prices have yet to be finalised, but for
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THE VERDICT Highs: I’m a frustrated racing driver, so put me in a SeaPlex bumper car and I turn into Danny Ricciardo, determined to force Hamilton and Vettel into the barriers. The views of the ship from North Star are sensational, and at a scenic port it’s the source of lasting memories. The Solarium is perfect for tranquil afternoons with a glass of something cold. Lows: I’ve enjoyed eating at Jamie’s Italian restaurants in the UK, but the ship version – with its artificially-distressed tables and shelves of recipe books for sale – just seems to be trying too hard. Michael’s Genuine Pub – it’s not genuine and it ain’t a pub. Best suited to: Multi-generational families, groups of friends and food lovers who like to try something different for every meal.
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1 Flowrider
The 12 metre-long Flowrider surf simulator allows surfers of all levels to test their skills, with session on both stand-up boards and boogie boarding. Private lessons are available for a charge.
2 RipCord by iFly
One of the most popular activities on board Royal Caribbean’s Quantum class ships is the sky-diving simulator, RipCord by iFly. Guests, if they dare, can take to the air as if they are falling from a plane.
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CRUISE NEWS: OVATION OF THE SEAS cruises originating from Tianjin, Hong Kong and Singapore, it is expected a ride in the North Star pod will cost US$20 and the RipCord by iFLY sky-diving simulator wil be US$26. The dodgems, surf simulator and other entertainment are expected to remain complimentary.
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4 Bionic Bar
The Makr Shakr, amazing robotic arms, mix, muddle and stir up cocktails to your specification using 30 different spirits and 20 different mixers. The Makr Shakr can even mix your drink in time with a tune from the Bionic Bar’s resident DJ.
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SeaPlex
The games area of the ship, SeaPlex is the largest indoor activity space at sea. During the day, it is home to a circus school and a full-size basketball court. After dark, it is taken over by 30 bumper cars and a roller rink with a DJ pumping out the music. There are also gaming pods with foosball tables, air hockey and video games. If you’re feeling peckish, stop by the SeaPlex Dog House, the first-ever food truck at sea.
Part of a raft of technological advances the line is introducing, Two70 is a new casual lounge, which has 270-degree views through floor-to-ceiling glass. At night, it is transformed into a high-tech theatre that surrounds guests, with video projections onto the glass walls and “dancing RoboScreens”. Shows combine robotics and human artistry with aerial performers, music and dance.
Jamie’s Italian
5 North Star
Another of Royal Caribbean’s Quantum class innovations, the North Star pod takes guests to new heights. The jewel-shaped observatory gently climbs to 90 metres above the sea for 360-degree views.
British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver has partnered with Royal Caribbean to bring his restaurant on board its Quantum class ships. Enjoy rustic, Italian dishes made using the best seasonal ingredients and tried, tested and loved recipes. Start your meal with one of Jamie’s antipasti planks, piled with cured meats or chargrilled vegetables, pickles, cheese and olives. cruiseandtravelasia.com
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CRUISE NEWS: OVATION OF THE SEAS
OVATION for the EMPRESS OF CHINA
Chinese movie star Fan Bingbing adds yet another feather to her cap as godmother to Ovation of the Seas. Bernadette Chua reports.
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he is one of the most influential Chinese celebrities in the world, starring in both Chinese and Western movies. Fan Bingbing was recently named as the godmother of Royal Caribbean’s Ovation of the Seas, the largest ship to sail in the southern hemisphere. Ms Fan has starred in movies including Lost in Beijing, Lady of the Dynasty, X-Men: Days of Future Past and Iron Man 3, as well as the big-budget Chinese television series The Empress of China. She is also the first Chinese national to be picked as a ship’s godmother, joining the ranks that include comedian Whoopi Goldberg, entertainer Gloria Estefan and some of her personal idols. “It is a great honour being named a godmother of a cruise ship,” Ms Fan told Cruise&Travel Asia. “I’ve watched some films and movies and I am absolutely delighted to be named as a godmother. I’ve
seen that I now join the ranks of Princess Diana, actress Audrey Hepburn, former British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, as well as Princess Kate [the Duchess of Cambridge], who I adore and admire.” Aside from being the fourth-highest paid actress in the world, Ms Fan is also known for her style and fashion. She was previously a brand ambassador for the luxury French fashion house Louis Vuitton and says what she loves most about the Ovation of the Seas is how chic it is. “I love the design of this cruise ship 20
because it combines style with a feeling of relaxation, which is necessary when you’re on a holiday. I’m looking forward to all the activities, the entertainment and especially the restaurants onboard. The food looks so scrumptious,” she said. “I use to travel on a lot of short cruises around the region. But my first trip on Ovation of the Seas will be a 10-day cruise from Tianjin and I am looking forward to it.” Ms Fan said she will be taking her family and staff on board for her inaugural trip on Ovation of the Seas. “It’s very important to be able to relax and indulge especially when you work so hard. So while I may be working hard, my team is also putting 100 per cent of their efforts into working hard. “So on the trip, I’m planning to bring all my colleagues because they deserve this wonderful reward for their hard work. Also, I want to bring my parents. I’m hoping to play chef and even make my mum a plate of scrambled eggs with tomatoes! “My father was a singer in the art troupe of the Political Department of the Navy in China. My childhood was filled with the melodies of the sea and I often dreamed about sailing out to sea for an adventure,” said Ms Fan. “Now, thanks to this invitation from Royal Caribbean, my dreams will come true. I am really honoured to be the first godmother of Chinese nationality for such a prestigious international cruise line as Royal Caribbean International. “And I like the name of Ovation of the Seas, which in Chinese is interpreted as ‘praising the world and welcoming guests from everywhere’.”
Chinese actress Fan Bingbing is welcomed to the Royal Caribbean family
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CRUISE NEWS
MOST LUXURIOUS SHIP AT SEA
Set sail in ultra-luxury
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he US$450 million Seven Seas Explorer is nearing completion ready embark on her maiden voyage from Monte Carlo to Venice on July 20. Billed as the most luxurious ship on the sea, the all-suite, all-balcony vessel will carry 750 passengers. Explorer’s most expensive accommodation, the 360-squaremetre Regent Suite (more than US$68,500 per person) has already been snapped up for the inaugural 14-night cruise. Regent Suite guests have their own private, in-suite spa with unlimited treatments, two bedrooms, a spacious living room, two balconies, a private garden, a personal butler and Hermes toiletries. rssc.com
STAR CRUISES FLAGSHIP
A superstar cruises Okinawa
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tar Cruises’ SuperStar Virgo has started cruises to the picturesque Japanese islands of Okinawa from her homeports of Hong Kong and Nansha, Guangzhou. A sevennight cruise departs Hong Kong every Saturday and a five-night cruise departs Nansha every Sunday. The cruise calls at Naha, the Okinawan capital, and the island of Myakojima. Passengers will be able to meet adventurers Guo Chan and Lee Ming Hay on board as well as hear local pop stars performing nightly in The Lido lounge. SuperStar Virgo is the flagship liner for Star Cruises, carrying almost 2,000 passengers. The ship recently underwent a US$20 million refurbishment. starcruises.com
NEW VIKING TAKES TO THE OCEAN
The second ocean ship from Viking Cruises has set sail, making her maiden voyage from Istanbul to Venice in April. Viking Sea was officially christened in London in May and will spend her first season cruising the Mediterranean, Scandinavia and the Baltic. vikingcruises.com 22
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CRUISE NEWS
Coral branches out into Asia
NEW ASIAN LINE
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Live the dream T
his year will see the launch of Asia’s first premium cruise brand, Dream Cruises, from Genting Hong Kong. It will sit neatly between Genting’s popular Star Cruises and its luxury offering, Crystal Cruises. The first Dream Cruises ship, Genting Dream, will debut in November 2016 and sister ship World Dream will set sail in November 2017. Genting Dream will accommodate up to 3,400 guests and 2,000 crew. The ship will boast two exclusive floors of Dream Suites, measuring from 32 to 183 square meters, with European butler service and special privileges. Genting Dream will have more than 35 restaurants and bars with a focus on Asian food, specifically for Chinese guests. There will be dining experiences
featuring all the regional cuisines of China as well as international favourites from Japan, Southeast Asia and the Mediterranean. Bars include the famous Zouk nightclub, which is one of Singapore’s biggest and most popular venues. There will also be plenty of activities on board including a variety of pools, six water slides, a bowling alley, mahjong and card rooms, duty-free shopping and state-of-the-art Asian and Western spas. Daily activities will range from wine tasting to inspirational speakers. Genting Dream will have three homeports – Guangzhou, Hong Kong and Sanya. Itineraries will include weekend cruises from Guangzhou to Hong Kong and longer sailings to ports in Vietnam. dreamcruiseline.com
FAMILY FUN SHIP
A new Vista for Carnival
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arnival Cruise Line’s largest and most innovative ship has begun her maiden season in the Mediterranean. The 3,954-passenger Carnival Vista set sail from Trieste, Italy, on May 1 and will sail in Europe until November this year, when she moves to her homeport of Miami, Florida. The most exciting feature on board is the one-ofa-kind suspended cycling experience, SkyRide (pictured), where passengers pedal themselves around an elevated track on the ship’s top deck. There’s also a huge WaterWorks aqua park with the 138-metre long Kaleid-o-slide, a covered waterslide complete with an internal light show. Passengers can watch a movie in the first IMAX theatre at sea or sample one of the beers brewed on board at the RedFrog Pub & Brewery. Families are well catered for with the new Family Harbor, offering specially designed rooms and a concierge in a dedicated family zone, or the adults can stay in the Havana Cabanas with access to a private pool. carnival.com
ustralia’s oldest expedition cruise line, Coral Expeditions, is expanding into Southeast Asia. Coral Discoverer, the three-vessel fleet’s flagship, will head for Singapore later this year for a major refit followed by seven expeditions between November and February, 2017. “Our Asia season will be one of the most exciting series of itineraries for Coral Expeditions,” said Group General Manager Mark Fifield. Coral Discoverer’s Asian sojourn starts with an eight-night itinerary from Kalimantan, Indonesia, to Singapore, which includes visits to the Camp Leakey orangutan sanctuary and rarely visited Way Kambas National Park. Other highlights of the Asian season include sailing up Myanmar’s Irrawaddy River to Yangon, and visiting the active Anak Krakatua volcano. coralexpeditions.com
CRUISE CONTROL
Robots at your service ■ Step aboard an AIDA or Costa Cruises ship in 2016 and you’ll be greeted by a friendly robot named Pepper. The 120-centimetre bot is the first in the world programmed to read human emotions and will guide passengers around the ship and give helpful tips on dining and entertainment in one of three languages. Pepper’s 3D camera and voice-recognition system detect emotion so he interacts in a realistic fashion. Pepper is on board AIDAPrima and Costa Diadema. aida.de; costacruise.com
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CRUISE NEWS
NEW RIVER CRUISE
Into the heart of Borneo ■ Pandaw has introduced a new itinerary on the Kapuas River in West Kalimantan. A seven-day cruise on the 32-passenger Katha Pandaw will sail into the heart of Borneo, travelling more than 500 kilometres along the upper Kapuas River and through the Danau Sentarum lakes system. Pandaw founder Paul Strachan said: “This will be a truly pioneering expedition into a rarely visited area where the main attraction will be the scenery, wildlife and tribal village life.” The rainforest is home to some 15,000 species of flowering plants and hundreds of species of birds and mammals, including
the endangered Bornean orangutan. It is also a refuge for the Borneo elephant, the Eastern Sumatran rhino and the Bornean clouded leopard (pictured). Katha Pandaw has 16 staterooms, an indoor/outdoor dining area and self-service bar. Guests can fly into Kuching or Pontianak, the capital of West Kalimantan. Cruises are available from February 2017, priced from US$2,115 per person twin share. pandaw.com
QUEEN MARY 2
Royal restaurants remastered
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unard’s flagship, Queen Mary 2, has just entered dry dock for a comprehensive refit that the line is calling “Queen Mary 2 Remastered”. As part of the overhaul, Cunard will introduce new dining venues and refresh the menus for the Britannia Restaurant, Golden Lion Pub and the legendary afternoon tea. A specially commissioned development kitchen was opened at Cunard’s homeport of Southampton and a team of chefs, culinary experts and suppliers collaborated on a range of new dishes to be served onboard. The new Carinthia Lounge will serve breakfast, lunch and champagne afternoon tea during the day, before transforming into an elegant lounge offering wine and tasting platters. The Verandah will replace the Todd English restaurant and serve French cuisine for lunch and dinner. The King’s Court buffet will be completely reconfigured as a relaxed, informal open-seating area with cooking demonstrations at the service counters. Queen Mary 2 will leave dry dock on June 21 and will return to Asia in March 2017. cunard.com 24
EDM FESTIVAL
Four-day dance festival at sea
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t’s the Ship, Asia’s largest electronic dance music (EDM) cruise festival is back this year on Royal Caribbean’s Mariner of the Seas. The three-night cruise departs from Singapore on November 4, kicking off with a thumping EDM set on the main pool deck. The cruise stops at Penang for an epic beach party and during the day guests can sample local cuisine and visit heritage sites. On day three, five stages of music will play into the wee hours of the morning. In 2015, headline acts included Grammynominated DJ Kaskade, Ferry Corsten, Peking Duck and Will Sparks. The cruise is priced from US$412 per person (early-bird rate, four share, interior cabin). itstheship.com
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CRUISE NEWS
MEDITERRANEAN MAMMOTH
World’s largest ship launches H
armony of the Seas, the biggest cruise ship in the world, has set sail from Southampton. The 16-deck ship is 362 metres long and carries up to 5,479 passengers. It has many of the same features as other Oasis class ships (such as robotic bartenders at the Bionic Bar) and a host of exciting new activities. The most highly anticipated experiences are the Perfect Storm Waterslides. Named Cyclone, Typhoon and
Monsoon, the multi-storey slides will twist and turn over Central Park, 10 decks below. There will also be a 10-storey slide called The Abyss at the aft. It is the tallest slide at sea and will take guests from the AquaTheatre to the Boardwalk. Harmony will spend her first season in the Mediterannean then, in November, move to her new homeport of Port Everglades in Florida to sail around the Caribbean. royalcaribbean.com
SAIL INTO PARIS
New ship for the Seine
Polar snorkelling
■ Passengers are generally encouraged to stay out of the freezing waters of
the Arctic, but Aurora Expeditions is inviting them to jump right in. Aurora has introduced polar snorkelling to its European Arctic cruises for 2016. Guests are kitted out in a state-of-the-art dry suit and can swim right up to the edge of the pack ice. No experience is necessary – just a sense of adventure. auroraexpeditions.com.au
■ Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection will launch a new “Super Ship” on the Seine in 2017. At 125 metres, the 128-passenger Joie de Vivre will be slightly smaller than the line’s other ships, allowing it dock right in the heart of Paris. Interiors will be designed by Uniworld’s sister-company Red Carnation Hotels and furnished with antiques and artworks. The ship will feature a swimming pool with a hydraulic cover that transforms into a cinema or dance floor, and two dining venues: Le Restaurant Pigalle and La Cave de Vins. uniworld.com cruiseandtravelasia.com
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CRUISE NEWS: FASHION
fashion
A SEA OF HIGH The “queen of catwalk stunts”, Jessica Minh Anh has joined
forces with Costa Cruises to stage fashion spectaculars at sea. Words Bernadette Chua
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ietnamese-born haute-couture model Jessica Minh Anh is as stunning in real life as she is in pictures. Famous for her fashion shows in unique locations around the world, Ms Anh has been dubbed the “queen of catwalk stunts”. And she has developed a new runway passion: cruise ships. Her most recent outing was a fashion show on board Costa Luminosa in front of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. And Cruise&Travel Asia was in the front row, along with fashionistas from Harpers Bazaar and Vogue. Ms Anh has created large productions around the world, including photo shoots and shows at Paris’ Eiffel Tower, London’s Tower Bridge, Kuala Lumpur’s Petronas Twin Towers Skybridge and Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay Skywalk. She holds the record for the world’s highest fashion show after her production on the Grand Canyon Skywalk, more than 1,200 metres above the Colorado River. Ms Anh has been working with Costa Cruises for three years, since she approached the premium Italian line to host her first fashion show on board a cruise ship in 2013. “I wanted to feature the best local designers as well as amazing scenery. I love heights and by using a cruise ship, I quite literally elevate the production to a whole new level,” she said. “I also love the idea of being in the middle of the sea, which just adds to the theatrics
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of the show. Cruise ships are grand so it made it the perfect place to hold a fashion show. Costa Cruises embodies everything that I try to emulate in the fashion show: sophistication, elegance and luxury.” Her Sydney Harbour show on Costa Luminosa involved a couple of firsts for the fashion icon – her first visit to Australia’s famous harbour city and her first night spent on board a cruise ship. “I loved the experience. I spent the night in the State Suite, which was absolutely luxurious. It was so lush and decadent that I had one of the best sleeps in a very long time. The service Costa provides is impeccable – the staff are extremely attentive and very professional,” she said. “The food was as if we were feasting in the Mediterranean. There were lots of fresh antipasti platters, canapés, salads, the best cuts of meat, pasta, pizza, everything you could think of. Costa embodies the epitome of European luxury. I am hoping that I am able to be able to produce another fashion show on board a Costa Cruises ship – and hopefully, also be able to do a cruise.” Costa Cruises is equally enthusiastic about the relationship. “Jessica Minh Anh is known worldwide for producing the world’s most extraordinary catwalks at places such as London’s Tower Bridge and One World Trade Center in New York City,” said Costa president Neil Palomba. “We are extremely honoured to work with her again on our new flagship, Costa Luminosa, providing an ‘Italy’s finest’ location to this important event.”
Jessica Minh Anh modelling in Sydney. Below from left: in New York, Paris and Singapore. Left: with Costa Cruises staff
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CRUISE NEWS: FASHION
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SYDNEY PHOTOGRAPHY: JOHN OAKLEY
SHIP OF LIGHT Costa Luminosa exudes classic Italian design. The ship has 1,130 cabins, 52 with direct access to the spa. There are four restaurants as well as 11 bars, including a cigar lounge and a coffee and chocolate lounge. The Samsara Spa is spread over two levels, with a gym, thalassotherapy pool, treatment rooms, sauna, Turkish bath and solarium. There are four Jacuzzis and three pools on board, plus a theatre spread over three levels, a disco and a golf centre with a simulator and putting green. Costa Luminosa will visit Singapore during a 62-day cruise, which departs Los Angeles on October 1, 2016. After Singapore, the cruise will call at Port Klang in Malaysia and Phuket in Thailand before heading to a number of destinations in India. Costa Luminosa will then sail to the Middle Eat where it will call at Dubai in the United Arab Emirates and Salalah, Oman, before heading back to Greece and then Italy. For more information, see costacruisesasia.com
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SHIP REVIEW: MARINER OF THE SEAS
PiRATES of the CARiBBEAN 28 cruiseandtravelasia.com
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SHIP REVIEW: MARINER OF THE SEAS
Mariner of the Seas is rampaging through the Southeast Asian market, kidnapping families with kids for weekends of fun. Sylvia Toh Paik Choo, author of Eh Goondu! went along for the ride.
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am aboard Mariner of the Seas for a five-night Spice of Southeast Asia cruise, one of those journeys that has proved such a giant hit with Asians in Singapore and beyond. Cruising is really taking off as an Asian holiday and I am here to find out what all the fuss is about. We are moored at the impressive Marina Bay Sands Cruise Centre, a big building dwarfed by this Voyager class ship of 15 decks, crewed by nearly 1,200, serving about 3,100 passengers. Her short trips around local seas sold out over Christmas and Chinese New Year. Now passengers are piling aboard for her latest journey. Asians are taking to cruise like ducks to water. But they do so in their very particular way. You’d think the first thought of guests coming aboard would be where’s my cabin? But as any cruise director will tell you, it’s gangway to the buffet restaurant almost every time. After all, the luggage is being delivered to rooms, so why not eat first. The mother lode of chafing dishes is Windjammer Café on deck 11, serving hot meals from 11.30am to 4pm, 6.30pm to 9pm and 10.30pm to 5.30am. There is no time of the day when you are not spoilt for choice scarfing. Restaurant manager Kaizad Patel tells me they serve 18,000 meals every day. Thanks to its efficient logistics, there is no shortage of clean cutlery, flatware and fresh, hot top-ups for every fussy diner. No wonder every other passenger cites “the food, the food” as the main attraction for cruising. Mariner brings new meaning to “all you can eat”. Now I understand why habitual cruisers claim their clothes shrink in their cabin wardrobes. The cruise package price includes all food and soft drinks (liquor is separate) in all the main outlets (three floors of dining options). Charges apply to specialty dining in Chops Grille steakhouse, Giovanni’s Table (Italian) and Johnny Rockets (American diner). The glorious serves of food aren’t the only attractions of a cruise. Just think, there is no jet lag and no re-packing bags after every port of call. And there are all manner of backdrops for the selfieobsessed – all those decks plus shore excursions. Once you’ve sussed the shortest route to your cabin, you can either play it by ear and discover the cruiseandtravelasia.com 29
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SHIP REVIEW: MARINER OF THE SEAS
ship deck by deck, or religiously study the daily planner newsletter to make sure you miss nothing. “There are more things to do than we have time for,” says Javier Luo, a university student travelling with his girlfriend, Yilin Choo, both novice cruisers. He’s not wrong – stretch class, footprint analysis, line dancing, trivia and a deck-game tournament, all before 11am. The list goes on – hair show, jewellery making, cha cha dance class, Nintendo open play, dollar origami (bring your own dollars). Retirees Mr and Mrs Cheng commute between homes in Singapore and Australia. Mrs Cheng stops cutting an impromptu rug and shares: “It’s liberating, a cruise brings you out of your shyness. It can be crowded, but it has a classy ambience.” The man behind the ambience is Fang, “just Fang”. “Also known as ‘the bald one’, I am the mood maker,” says the Beijing-born cruise director – a bit of a legend at Royal Caribbean for dealing with the many delicate differences between Asians, from Beijing to Bangkok. “It is a floating hotel resort, the ship is the destination. The environment is unique because of the diversity in the dynamic of the crowds, who are all here for a fun vacation. My job is to keep them entertained when they are not eating or sleeping,” he says. The signature productions are out of Royal Caribbean International’s studios in Florida – Broadway-style musicals, comedy, magicians, juggling acts and performers. I take in a show by a pair of acrobatic ballet dancers from China who perform a first when she pirouettes on his head. As she does, a collective hush falls in the ship’s Savoy Theatre, before the duo takes their bow to prolonged applause from an audience of 1,500. Like everywhere on the ship, the audience is a mix of mates, young couples with first-born child, newly-weds, retired folk, multi-generational family groups and singles
Meeting Puss in Boots at the Dreamworks Parade (top); Windjammer Café (above)
FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Royal Caribbean VESSEL: Mariner of the Seas STAR RATING: 3.5 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 3,114 TOTAL CREW: 1,185 PASSENGER DECKS: 14 ENTERED SERVICE: 2004 TONNAGE: 137,276 FACILITIES: Complimentary dining in main dining room, Windjammer Café, Jade Sushi and Café Promenade; two specialty restaurants; 15 bars, clubs and lounges; theatre; ice-skating rink; rock-climbing wall; mini-golf course; basketball court; jogging and in-line skating tracks; casino; three pools; six hot tubs; fitness centre; Vitality Spa; Library. BOOKINGS: Five-night Spice Of Southeast Asia Cruise from Singapore aboard Mariner of the Seas, from US$840 per person twin share (inside cabin). See royalcaribbean.com
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SHIP SHIPREVIEW: REVIEW:MARINER NORWEGIAN OF THE ESCAPE SEAS
‘We have been able to bond even closer as a family. And every member can find something to do on board.’ in search of a partner. A cruise holiday works for every stage of life. While you can be kept busy and entertained from morning til night, if you need downtime on your own, there are any number of great cosy corners for a respite. But, tearing yourself away from the activities is tricky. There’s an ice show, photo opportunities with Dreamworks characters, poolside movies, karaoke and disco, and daily sales of watches, leather goods, handbags. Two sisters from Malaysia described it best. “In Kuala Lumpur, I have to go to the mall, find parking, then make decisions. Here (on board) everything is taken care off, no need to drive, no need to park. Eat, see a
Rock-climbing wall and sports court (above); ice show in Studio B (below)
show, dance, all free. I only pay if I shop.” Life on board Mariner of the Seas is both cabaret and buffet. My cruise calls at Port Klang, Langkawi (with the region’s cheapest duty free) and Phuket. Shore excursions are sold on board and transactions are in US dollars. A three-generation Singapore family of nine, the Lees hire a van for a tour of Langkawi for MR500 (US$128). “We wanted to get away from the city,” the senior Mr Lee tells me. “Of course we meet weekends at home, but this is better. We have been able to bond even closer as a family. And every member can find something to do on board.” From Phuket’s Patong pier, jump in a tuk-tuk to JungCeylon, a huge mall for eating, massages and shopping, at very tasty prices. It cost about 200 baht (US$5.70) each way by tuk-tuk. Many passengers skip going ashore, preferring the comfort and company of the ship’s bars, casino, cafes, shopping arcade, gym, library, theatre, sports arena, skating rink and art gallery (includes sales). For an overdrive of pampering, the Mariner Day Spa and Salon (charges apply) can fix you a celebrity look from top to toe. Not quite your cuppa detox tea? Perhaps you’d rather flex your fingers with mahjong tiles. Lawrence and Stephanie Tern have brought their one-year-old along on the cruise. “It’s the program, the flexibility of it. And the price, very fair for what you get.” And on the off chance what you get is a shipboard romance, no need to wait til you go ashore to pledge your troth. There is a chapel on the top deck, multi-faith, and the ship’s captain can officiate and marry you, too. Sunset at sea is a magnificent one to walk into.
THE VERDICT Highs: One-stop check-in, luggage and passport handover, everything’s taken care of. No packing and repacking. No jet lag. A moveable feast on so many levels, from formal dining to casual cafes, and the speciality restaurants are decently priced, such as the US$35 five-course meal in Chops Grille. Lows: When you step off the ship’s gangway at cruise end to return to the daily grind. Pretty much like a postparty depression. If you’re on a diet, jump ship, a cruise is not for you. The cinema is too small. Best suited to: Anyone and everyone – singles, extended families, young couples, retirees and gangs of colleagues, with the exception of the misanthrope who’d prefer being stranded in silence on a desert island.
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SHIP REVIEW: STAR CLIPPER
RETURN OF THE
tall ship
When luxury yacht Star Clipper sails into Southeast Asia after a long absence, it will bring with it exciting small-port itineraries and a unique style of travel. Roderick Eime enjoys the romance.
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espite its beautifully classic lines and timeless nautical design, Star Clipper is not a historic ship. It was launched in 1992, a year after her almost identical sister ship, Star Flyer. But looking at the ship with all 3,365 square metres of sail unfurled, you could easily think you were gazing at one of the 19th century’s magnificent tall ships. Star Clippers has a fleet of three sailing ships and recently announced the construction of a fourth, Flying Clipper, the world’s largest sailing ship, for delivery in late 2017. The new ship will carry almost twice the amount of sail and double the number of guests as Star Clipper. Currently, Star Clippers’ vessels can be found throughout the Mediterranean and Caribbean, but from late 2016, itineraries will include Asia as Star
Clipper repositions to homeport in Phuket, Thailand, for five months. It will be the first time the line has sailed in Southeast Asia since 2010. The ship will operate two seven-night itineraries (one northbound and one southbound) from Phuket, calling at a number of small islands and coastal ports along the west coast of Thailand, as well as Langkawi in Malaysia. There will also be seven departures that either start or finish in Singapore, visiting Penang and Malacca. Star Clipper’s 85 cabins are arranged across four decks in six categories and are similar in size and amenities, with yacht-like decor and comfort. The biggest distinguishing feature between categories is their location on the ship. The higher the cabin category, the higher or more centrally they are located
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SHIP REVIEW: STAR CLIPPER
THE VERDICT Highs: Intimate and cosy atmosphere with unmistakable feel of life under sail; great food (really); flexible and enriching itineraries. Lows: Lack of privacy on full ship; squeezy dining room; may be not as much sailing as one might expect. Best suited to: More seasoned travellers looking to add variety and new experience to their worldly portfolio.
Bowsprit netting on Star Clipper (left); under sail (above); in Phuket (below)
FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Star Clippers VESSEL: Star Clipper STAR RATING: 3.5 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 170 TOTAL CREW: 72 PASSENGER DECKS: 4 ENTERED SERVICE: 1992 TONNAGE: 2,298 FACILITIES: Barbecue, outdoor bar, dining room, piano bar, sun deck, two swimming pools. BOOKINGS: Seven-day Northern Thailand roundtrip cruise from Phuket, departing December 16, 2016, is priced from US$1,940 per person twin share. starclippers.com
on board. The eight Category 1 cabins open onto the deck. All cabins have an ensuite bathroom, TV, DVD player, phone, thermostat control, private safe, hair dryer, nightly turndown service and 110 volt/ American outlets. Life on board is not all deck chairs and cocktails. Time is set aside for guests to climb the mast for photos and a taste of life working on a tall ship. Several of us lounge lazily on the bowsprit netting while others pose imperiously at the helm, but during our week at sea, there is barely enough wind to blow out a birthday candle and much of our time is under power. Dining was a very pleasant surprise. I’d heard mixed reports, but I found the variety and the quality hard to fault. A typical day’s fare begins at 0630 hours with an early riser breakfast, followed by buffet from 0800 to 1000. Lunch is at 1200 either on deck or in the dining room. Cocktail hour at 1700 leads into dinner at 1930. Midnight snacks are served until 0100. A random menu from chef Rodolfo Soledad starts with thin-sliced dried beef and barley salad followed by soup and sorbet. A choice of mains could include grilled salmon, duck breast or stuffed bell peppers for vegetarians. There is always an alternative such as pasta or sirloin if nothing on the menu appeals. The dining room itself can be a bit tight, especially at its busiest, consequently it’s common for guests and serving staff to bang chairs as they squeeze between tables. Despite there being a lot of open deck space and plenty of fresh air, it can be tricky to find somewhere to retreat for a bit of privacy besides your cabin. One place is the library, opposite the tropical bar, but even then you can be interrupted as the senior staff like to conduct meetings there. That’s life on a small ship. This ship is not for everyone, especially those used to the vast expanses of today’s megaships and all their trappings. But I can’t help thinking Thailand’s exquisite coastlines and idyllic islands are more befitting a gorgeous vessel such as Star Clipper. cruiseandtravelasia.com 33
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Cruise & Travel Asia ADVERT 210mmx275mm.qxp_Layout 1 20/04/2016 14:35 Page 1
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SHIP REVIEW: SUPERSTAR GEMINI
Weekend getaway
Star Cruises is making a major pitch for the fly-and-flop family market, offering a real alternative to the usual holiday playgrounds. Steven Hopkinson took his four-year-old on SuperStar Gemini to try it out.
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o you’ve been to Bali and played in Phuket. Now you’re looking for something different. Especially since the family expanded. Now there is a child in tow. How about taking in Penang and Langkawi in one long, trouble-free weekend? Three nights of fine dining, free shows and resort-style pools and play areas… and no airport lounges or flight delays to deal with. No tantrums. Can’t be done? Yes, it can. Welcome to short cruising Asian style. SuperStar Gemini is based in Singapore and sails to the beautiful Malaysian ports of Malacca, Pulau Redang, Pulau Tioman, Langkawi, Penang and Kuala Lumpur.
ng. Langkawi’s lush forest and tranquil water
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SHIP REVIEW: SUPERSTAR GEMINI
FACT FILE
From top: Malacca Straits Mosque; fresh rice paper rolls; Crew Talent Show
CRUISE LINE: Star Cruises VESSEL: Superstar Gemini STAR RATING: 3 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 1,529 TOTAL CREW: 889 PASSENGER DECKS: 10 ENTERED SERVICE: 1992 (2013 for Star Cruises) TONNAGE: 50,764 FACILITIES: Six restaurants; four bars; entertainment lounge; sports deck; fitness centre; spa; karaoke lounge; duty-free shopping; casino; pool; two hot tubs; library. BOOKINGS: Three-night Penang and Langkawi cruise from Singapore aboard SuperStar Gemini is priced from US$893 per person twin share (Oceanview Stateroom). starcruises.com
Star invited Cruise&Travel Asia to try out the benefits many young families are discovering as a hassle-free, well-priced alternative to the fly-andflop weekend break. And after three days with my wife, Lara, and daughter, Madison, all three of us recommend it for a great way to take some time out. There was an amazing array of food, fun and entertainment, from shows to shopping. And Madison still talks about making her own pizza dough with friends. Star Cruises has come a long way since the famous “cruise to no-where” that had passengers rushing for the casino almost as soon as the ship left the dock. Today’s vessels are designed for everyone – especially families like ours and multi-generational clans with granny and granddad accompanying toddlers and teens. 36 cruiseandtravelasia.com
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SHIP REVIEW: SUPERSTAR GEMINI We travelled in a Superior Oceanview Stateroom which entitled us to Balcony Class privileges (without an actual balcony). We were located on deck nine with a picture window, flat-screen TV, separate small lounge area and a small desk. International plugs are standard. There are five categories of cabins, ranging from 149-square-foot inside rooms to 157- to 600-square-foot executive suites. Three-quarters of the 1,000 cabins have a sea view and many have third and fourth berths for family use. All have safes, hairdryers and room service. Balcony Class offers priority check-in with free welcome drinks, and dining credits towards the cost of using the ship’s specialty restaurants. There are three main restaurants, Bella Vista (Western inspired), Dynasty Restaurant (Chinese buffet) and Taipan (Chinese a la carte). In addition, Mariners Restaurant offers an international buffet and Oceana Barbecue serves up an outdoor international feast. We tended to gravitate to the Bella Vista, which has a good buffet selection for breakfast and a la carte options for lunch and dinner. Other than a final night gala dinner, passengers can dine at their leisure. We loved the fresh-baked rolls and bread. The seafood and lamb dishes were excellent. And, with a large contingent from India, there were plenty of exceptional curry dishes. Try to get window seats; the Malacca Straits puts on an amazing display of shipping as you sail serenely past. There is plenty of entertainment for both kids and adults, from illusionists, movies through the day and an interesting Las Vegas act strictly for adults called Marionettes. The show is described as “a night of sultry story telling that will bring every man to different eras of romance and seduction that is way beyond their control”. It was packed each night. There are also theme parties, a magical showcase and Queen of Hearts, an infusion of modern song and dance, acrobatic stunts. Daytime activities by the two main pool areas are aimed at children in one area and games in another. Asian cruisers are renowned for their love of shopping. And there is a good selection in the onboard duty-free stores. The casino, too, is large. The crew is friendly, attentive and overall fantastic. Our shore excursions were easy. In Malaysia, there are no customs processes to go through. We chose to take shore excursions in Penang and Langkawi, which was a great way to get an overview of the different parts of these two fascinating towns. The historic areas of Penang (Georgetown) are amazing. The architecture is stunning, and fantastic coffee shops and restaurants are everywhere. After our brief tour of Langkawi, we spent a few hours on wonderful powder white sand beaches just chilling out. So while we could have flown and flopped in Thailand, our choice to walk up the gang plank in Singapore and let Superstar Gemini do the work was a winner.
Clockwise from top left: Madison making pizza, with Steven in the restaurant, on deck and with Steven in their cabin; view of Singapore across the pool and sun deck
THE VERDICT Highs: Easy ship to navigate and the stopovers in Penang and Langkawi made for a great break. Lows: Star Cruises knows its product well and everything worked like clockwork. My only complaint: the ship needs a barista. Best suited to: Families and couples. This is a very costeffective start to cruising. The ship is perfect for the short cruises it typically undertakes.
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SHIP REVIEW: QUEEN VICTORIA
Queen OF THE SEA
The world’s most historic cruise line is steadily attracting new cruisers from Asia keen to tap into Cunard’s rich traditions. Nick Walton steps aboard the line’s Queen Victoria in Hong Kong.
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here’s nothing quite like leaving your home town by ship, if only to gain a unique perspective. Whether that ship is a regal old ocean liner or a modern metropolis with climbing walls and bumper cars, there is majesty in that departure, and in the silent, slipping panorama that’s at once familiar and new. Queen Victoria’s midnight departure from Hong Kong’s Ocean Terminal was just such an occasion; the towering skyscrapers, backed by the brooding profile of Victoria Peak, make for a stunning retreat from one of Asia’s most famous ports and quickly we’re engulfed by the darkness of night on the South China Sea. It’s beautiful and unforgettable cruise experiences like this that first forged the Cunard brand, helping the line become a household name, on either side of the Atlantic and beyond. Bolstered by its popularity with British and Australian cruisers (the latter recently announced as the line’s second largest market), this most historic of lines is now turning its attention to affluent new cruisers in
Southeast Asia and China, keen to tap in to all that rich heritage and tradition. “It’s just like I expected a cruise to be,” says one Hong Kong first-time Cunard cruiser I meet on the top deck as we navigate the length of Victoria Harbour. “My wife can’t wait to dress up, sip champagne and waltz in the Queens Room. It’s all very exciting.” A total of 1,400 guests, a mixture of Australians, English and many novice Cunarders from Hong Kong, Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia, boarded Queen Victoria in Hong Kong. They joined almost 300 guests enjoying a 120-day World Cruise, a Cunard staple that’s been on offer for 80 years. One Englishman I encounter on the way to dinner that first night is celebrating his 2,000th day at sea with the line. It’s also my first Cunard cruise and I bring with me – founded or not, the expectations garnered by a brand that transcends generations. My grandmother coos when I tell her I’ll travel with Cunard from Hong Kong to Singapore and crowds line the waterfront at Tsim Sha Tsui to photograph the magnificent Queen Victoria at berth. It’s an important day on the line’s marketing calendar. Dubbed the Three Queens Party, Queen Victoria, Queen Mary 2 and Queen Elizabeth all visit Hong Kong within 24 hours, a sign of things to come as Asian ports increasingly feature on Cunard’s iconic world-
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SHIP REVIEW: QUEEN VICTORIA
cruise itineraries. After suffering through the confusion of Ocean Terminal, literally a shopping mall with cruise facilities absentmindedly added later (and thanking my stars I wasn’t boarding at the new Kai Tak Terminal at the other end of the harbor), I pace long corridors on board, eventually finding my Balcony Stateroom on deck 5. Queen Victoria boasts 1,016 cabins, including 43 inside, 146 Oceanview and 581 Balcony Staterooms. There are 10 wheelchair-accessible cabins across the varied room categories, which include Cunard’s coveted Princess and Queens Grill suites, and several single cabins for solo travellers. My cabin is elegant, quiet and functional. There’s a double bed made up of two slim singles, a small bathroom with marble vanity and shower, a small desk with flat-screen television, a two-seat couch and a generous balcony with two chairs. The room is dressed in honey with accents of royal blue and gold. There’s plenty of wardrobe space and it’s blissfully cool. Each evening my steward, William, performs the turndown service, topping up the Penhaligon’s Quercus toiletries and returning the room to order, making the space a delight to return to after a long day of exploration. Of course, to sample the real Cunard cruise experience, you should book into either one of the 61 Princess
White Star service in the Queens Grill restaurant
Grill Suites, which are basically larger versions of a standard balcony or the even more upscale Queens Grill accommodation, which ranges from 35 suites and 25 penthouse suites to four Grand and two Master Suites. In addition to in-room perks such as additional storage and wardrobe space, full-sized bathtubs, terry cloth robes and king-sized beds, these spaces offer cruisers access to dedicated lounges, courtyards and intimate dining rooms that don’t uphold the sometimes-frustrating restrictions of the main dining room downstairs. “I love the Princess Grill dining room,” says Hong Kong cruiser David Leung. “They really go the extra mile to look after you up there and the space is intimate and inviting.” Ideal for longer itineraries and for wellheeled cruisers looking for respite from the crowds as well as a little extra pampering, the Queens and Princess Grills are British luxury cruising at its best. Queen Victoria will also add a Britannia Club category in 2017. Cunard is the epitome of old-school British cruising. There’s the pomp of afternoon tea, served in the sumptuous Queens Room and accompanied by live music, daily fencing classes and regular ballroom dance recitals. There are artifacts, posters and models exhibited like museum pieces throughout the ship, cruiseandtravelasia.com 39
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SHIP REVIEW: QUEEN VICTORIA
‘Cunard suits a particular style of cruiser, who’s still enamored with the golden era of ocean travel.’
and even the informal nights are as formal as some ships get. Consequently, Cunard has undoubtedly created its own niche with American and European cruisers, one that’s attracting an increasing number of affluent Asian travellers looking to experience the famed White Star service for themselves. Some of these cruise newbies seem to adopt the oldworld nature of Cunard quickly, learning to waltz and shuffleboard. Others struggle with the rigid dress codes, restrictive dining times and language barriers (there are very few Chinese-speaking crew evident). It’s apparent that Cunard suits a particular style of cruiser; one who’s less fussed with signature dining and activities and is still enamored with the golden era of ocean travel, who enjoys the serenity of the sea and the elegant communality of the dining room, who revels in dressing for dinner and who likes to take things blissfully slowly. There’s also no doubt Queen Victoria is a beautiful ship. From British sculptor John McKenna’s relief sculpture panel above the grand lobby staircase to the pastel-hued Queens Room with its intricate parquet floor, the ship is a joy to cruise on. There’s room to embrace the sun and room enough to tantalize the taste buds. There are bars and lounges galore, and room to retreat. During the day, the heart of the ship is deck 9, home to the Lido all-day-dining restaurant, two pools surrounded by sun loungers, the intimate Winter Garden, the surprisingly popular Cunard Health Club, and the spa, all of which are packed with
Fencing lesson in the Queens Room; afternoon tea (below)
holidaymakers every day of our short sprint to Singapore. As the sun begins to settle, the sun-worshippers reluctantly leave their pool-side positions and the action shifts to decks 2 and 3, which are shared between the Britannia Restaurant, the ship’s main dining room, an extensive library, the voluminous Queens Room, the Golden Lion pub – a favourite with trivia fans, a small but lively casino and the retail options of the Royal Arcade. Like cruise ships the world over, dining is an important component of the cruise. Rather than split the dining experience across a vast array of outlets, Cunard consolidates and then innovates. There are two main dining outlets onboard. The Britannia Restaurant, a regal and beautifully appointed two-tier dining room inspired by the Golden Arrow train that once linked London and Paris, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner complete with the line’s iconic White Star service. The Lido Restaurant on deck 9 offers 24-hour buffet dining and, at dinner, a revolving specialty restaurant that allows guests a chance to tour the globe with their taste buds. “I love the pageantry of the Britannia Restaurant,” says Emily, an avid cruiser from Sydney bound for Cape Town. “It’s a chance to see new friends, to digest the day’s activity and dress to impress. We don’t come down every night, but when we do we always enjoy it.” In addition to these two mainstays, there are traditional pub lunches – think beef pie and fish and chips – in the Golden Lion pub, cakes and pastries at tea time at Café Carinthia, and elegant French fine
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SHIPSHIP REVIEW: REVIEW: NORWEGIAN QUEEN VICTORIA ESCAPE
FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Cunard VESSEL: Queen Victoria STAR RATING: 4.5 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 2,023 TOTAL CREW: 1,001 PASSENGER DECKS: 12 ENTERED SERVICE: 2007 TONNAGE: 90,049 FACILITIES: Main dining room for each accommodation class plus options including Verandah, Lido Café and Café Carinthia; a variety of bars, including the Golden Lion Pub, cigar bar and champagne bar; theatre; health club and spa; Winter Garden conservatory; casino; two pools; five hot tubs; library. BOOKINGS: Five-night cruise from Hong Kong to Singapore on sister-ship Queen Elizabeth*, from March 26-31, 2017, is priced from US$1,530 per person twin share for a Balcony Stateroom (*Queen Victoria will not be sailing in Asia in the next 12 months). See cunard.com
THE VERDICT Highs: Cocktails in the Commodore’s Club and the evening departure from Hong Kong. Lows: Poor service poolside and aggressive sales tactics by spa staff. Best suited to: Cruisers looking for the best of slow travel, great company, routine, nostalgia and elegance.
Pre-dinner strawberries and champagne in the Penthouse
dining at the beautifully appointed Verandah restaurant overlooking the ship’s main atrium. Queens and Princess Grill suite guests have access to their own dining rooms as well as all other restaurants, although there are surcharges at Verandah (US$24) and Lido’s specialty restaurant (US$15). Champagne-laced Enhanced Afternoon Teas are sometimes served in Verandah for a surcharge of US$29.99. However, you could be forgiven for wanting to save your money as the complimentary daily afternoon tea, served in the Queens Room, is one of the most popular events of the cruise and for good reason. The cheerful white-gloved waiters and waitresses, complemented by a string quartet and the beauty and vitality of the Queens Room, makes for a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Of all the activities on board – from bridge and language classes to shuffleboard and ping pong competitions, beauty seminars, fitness courses and the memorable fencing classes of the Queens Room, afternoon tea is the most popular, with guests arriving an hour or more before hand to secure the right table. Afternoon tea in the Queens Room really captures the timeless elegance of Cunard, as does a cocktail in the Commodore’s Club. Unlike many of the other bars on the ship, the Commodore’s Club’s ambiance is both regal and lavish and contemporary, with crisp service, live piano jazz and well-made martinis drawing guests again and again. Cunard has been a mainstay of ocean travel for generations and new itineraries and world cruises that pass through Asia will allow even more travellers the chance to voyage with the best of British luxury. cruiseandtravelasia.com 41
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ASIAN CRUISE REPORT
asia How we fell
SPECIAL R E P O RT
in love with cruise
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ASIAN CRUISE REPORT cruiseandtravelasia.com
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ASIAN CRUISE REPORT
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s the cruise markets in the US, Europe and Australia reach maturity, more international lines are turning to Asia as the next big theatre of activity. The shift of attention to the east, in particular China, means Asia will become one of the most important destinations for cruise ships of the world. Already more international lines have recognised the region will become a major force and they are sending their newest and biggest ships to homeport in Southeast Asia and China. There were 1.4 million Asian cruisers in 2014. China makes up nearly half of this total with more than 697,000 cruisers from mainland China taking to the oceans in 2014 – up a phenomenal 79 per cent from 2012. Singapore is a standout, coming in at second place with 163,232 passengers leaving this small island state by ship in 2014. By 2020, it is expected there will be 4.5 million Asian cruisers, more than one fifth of the 22 million who currently cruise worldwide. To accommodate this sharp growth, more than 52 ships called at Asian ports in 2014, many specially adapted for Asian tastes. Royal Caribbean International’s new Ovation of the Seas will call Tianjin home in June this year. The line already has Quantum of the Seas homeported
‘Nine out of 10 local cruisers choose itineraries in the Asian region.’ in Shanghai, Mariner of the Seas in Singapore, Voyager of the Seas in Hong Kong and Legend of the Seas in Tianjin. Costa Cruises has four ships in China, and Princess Cruises has two. Carnival is building two ships under a joint venture with China Merchants Group. Asian cruisers enjoy sailing close to home. One of the biggest travel agents in Singapore, Chan Brothers says: “Regional Southeast Asian sailings under a week still comprise the bulk of our cruise bookings.” Nine out of 10 local cruisers choose itineraries in the Asian region and they like short trips; almost half picked journeys of four to six days. More than 44
cruise boom
Asians are taking to the waves like never before, with cruising seeing a rapid rise in popularity, especially on short itineraries within the region. Teresa Ooi reports. 1,000 cruises sail in Asia each year, calling at 168 ports across 19 Asian countries. Japan is the most popular destination by number of port calls, followed by Malaysia, Singapore, South Korea and Hong Kong. Popular itineraries sail out of Singapore for short cruises around Malaysia, visiting Kuala Lumpur, Penang or Langkawi, or to Thai ports such as Phuket. Cruises around the islands of Japan call at Tokyo, Kobe, Nagasaki and Kochi, along with a stop at Busan in South Korea. Cruises departing from Shanghai or Beijing visit Japan and South Korea. Passengers who just want a taste of life on a cruise can take a “cruise to nowhere” and spend one or two nights at sea without stopping at any ports. Interest is growing in longer cruisers as Asian passengers look to explore the rest of the world by sea. “We have been gradually introducing week-long China/Asia fly cruises to bridge the short and long-haul sailings. Demand for such cruises has been encouraging especially for routes covering multiple countries within one sailing such as Japan and Korea,” said a spokeswoman from Chan Brothers. The agency’s clients are predominantly Singaporeans who like to travel on international lines such as Royal Caribbean International, Costa Cruises, Princess Cruises and Star Cruises for short-hail sailings. “For longer haul sailings such as those to Alaska, the cruise liner of choice is Celebrity Cruises,’’ she added.
Haedong Yonggungsa Buddhist temple, Busan, South Korea
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As the cruise boom continues, the top end of the market is poised for massive growth. Lucy Jones reports.
asia goes luxe
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n February this year, John Delaney, senior vice president of global sales and marketing for Seabourn, predicted the luxury cruise market would grow by 45 per cent by 2018. Once a niche category restricted to a very small (very lucky) group of passengers, luxury cruising is now the fastest-growing market sector. With more ships, more lines and more believe-it-or-not onboard features, there’s never been a better time to cruise in the top tier. And with Asia at the forefront of the luxury travel boom, it’s no surprise that cruise lines are focusing their efforts on the region. Local juggernaut Genting Group is now arguably the world leader in luxury cruising, having purchased – and rapidly expanded, Crystal Cruises. Genting also
‘Asia is fast becoming the first port of call for new luxury launches.’ owns a major stake in Regent Seven Seas, which is currently putting the finishing touches on what is being called the most luxurious ship on the water, Seven Seas Explorer. The group will also launch Asia’s first premium cruise line, Dream Cruises, later this year. Luxury French expedition line Ponant has also earmarked Asia for serious expansion. The region is the fastest growing market for the line and will make up 20 per cent of Ponant’s total business in 2016. The line’s 2016/2017 brochure features 23 cruises to seven countries in Asia, with a major focus on Japanese itineraries. Ponant recently announced it will be launching another four ships, bringing the total fleet to nine, to meet the growing demand. The first of these will sail routes in Southeast Asia. Asia is fast becoming the first port of call for new luxury launches, as opposed to more traditional destinations like the Mediterranean, giving local audiences the first look at the best the market has to offer. Seabourn will be launching the new Seabourn Encore in Singapore in January 2017 for an inaugural voyage that sold out in two days. Encore will spend the first few months of her maiden season sailing through Asia, with
Clockwise: Seabourn deck towel service & hot tub (opposite); sea plane, Ha Long Bay; The Au Co cabin; Ponant L’Austral; Seabourn Encore dining room
several voyages around Australia and New Zealand, before heading to Europe. Even traditionally budget-focused cruising destinations, such as Halong Bay in Vietnam, have succumbed to the lure of luxury. The Au Co is the most luxurious ship to ply the waters of the bay – the 32 ensuite cabins start from 20 square metres and almost all have a private balcony or terrace. There’s also a Jacuzzi on deck, a full-service spa and an openair bar for sundowners. Passengers can even take a private seaplane from Hanoi to meet the ship. cruiseandtravelasia.com
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port profile:
Phuket
Thailand’s largest island, sitting just off the southwest coast, Phuket is a popular port for cruises around Southeast Asia. There is plenty to entertain visitors, from spas and shopping to beautiful beaches.
Who goes there: Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises, P&O Cruises, P&O World Cruises, Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Seabourn, Silversea. Cruisers like: Phuket Town is the island’s capital and packed with shopping centres, markets, cafes and restaurants. The historic Old Town is known for its beautiful SinoPortuguese shophouses and grand colonial mansions, many of which have been converted into hotels, galleries and museums. 48
Or you can head to the coast to enjoy the long sandy beaches and try a number of water sports, including snorkelling or diving around coral reefs. Later, dine on spicy Thai food at a beachside restaurant or enjoy a spa treatment at one of the many high-end resorts. Top shore excursions: Many guests head off on excursions away from Phuket itself, hiring a longtail boat or taking a speedboat tour around the islands of the Andaman Sea with a stop for swimming and snorkelling off the famous Phi Phi Island. Adventurous travellers can canoe or kayak through the
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ASIAN CRUISE REPORT Hire a longtail boat to explore pristine beaches in the Andaman Sea; Wat Chalong (below)
enormous limestone rock formations of Phang Nga Bay. Half- or full-day tours around the island will take in the Big Buddha, a number of prominent temples and monasteries, a cashew nut farm and factory, and several stops for shopping. Elephant riding tours are popular, however questions have been raised about the treatment of the animals at these attractions and many experts advise against supporting the industry. Don’t miss: Watch the sunset from famous Patong Beach or stay on to experience its equally well-known nightlife. Indulge in retail
therapy at the several malls, or browse the local Royal Paradise market. For more authentic local crafts head to the OTOP market. Best for: Couples, photographers, shoppers, active people and water-sport fans. Getting around: During high season, ships moor off Patong Beach and tender passengers to shore. In the monsoon season, they dock at Phuket Deep Sea Port. It is a 20-minute drive to Phuket Town and taxis or bemos (a threewheel mini-bus) will be waiting for passengers at the pier. A taxi to Patong Bay, a 45-minute trip, will cost about US$50 round trip. cruiseandtravelasia.com
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FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Avalon Waterways VESSEL: Avalon Myanmar PASSENGER CAPACITY: 36 TOTAL CREW: 24 PASSENGER DECKS: 3 ENTERED SERVICE: 2015 FACILITIES: Lounge and sundeck, gym, two massage rooms, bar, restaurant, free Wi-Fi. BOOKINGS: 14-day Golden Myanmar & the Alluring Irrawaddy tour, including 10-night cruise between Bagan and Bhamo, from US$4,349 twin share (including internal flights from and to Yangon). See avalonwaterways.com
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logging camp where there are several mothers and calves. ay up in northern The babies, completely fearless, A new boutique river ship explores Myanmar, in the dusty rushed up to us, ferreting for Myanmar’s Irrawaddy River. riverside town of Katha, bananas with snotty trunks. travellers are as exotic to the Teak logging is being phased locals as they are to us. People out in Myanmar so the future stare with open curiosity, smile, of the elephants is uncertain, shout “mingalaba” (the standard but Avalon has built a wooden Burmese greeting), or take mounting platform and saddles photos of us with their phones. so people can go for rides; It’s a curious sensation to be at tourism could be the elephants’ the other end of the lens. salvation. Tourists are now a common Back in Katha, we gazed sight on the busier stretch of the at the ramshackle house, now Irrawaddy to the south, between inhabited by a local police Mandalay and Bagan, where officer, in which George Orwell river cruising is well established. wrote Burmese Days, and poked This far north, though, there’s around the magnificent market, meanders over a vast, sandy floodplain, just one luxury ship operating regular which was piled high with produce, but here, it squeezes between sheer cruises, the 36-passenger Avalon including dozens of species of fish, some cliffs, on which Buddhists have built Myanmar, launched in November last enormous, from the river. People may be shimmering gold stupas, teetering high year and offering 13-night northbound poor here, but at least they’re not hungry. and southbound voyages between Bhamo above the water on jagged rocks. Villages At Kya Hnyat, we visited a monastery, appeared as the cliffs softened into gentle bringing alms for the maroon-robed and Bagan. A couple of others visit, but hills, wood smoke hanging in the air. nothing else is small enough or light monks and novices, the youngest of We visited a village later that day on enough to make it all the way up the whom was only five. The senior monks the island of Kyun Daw, peering inside shallow, sandy river to Bhamo, which is tucked into the feast of curries sent by the bamboo house of a young mother, tucked up close to the Chinese border. our chef, while the mini-monks, waiting who was cooking the family meal over Avalon Myanmar is gorgeous, their turn, hopped around excitedly, an open fire, and causing mayhem in the Burmese-built and themed, all dark pleading to be photographed and ecstatic school, where the kids greeted us with wood, specially commissioned paintings when I let them play on my phone. squeals of excitement and sang songs. and objets d’art. Life on board revolves Most of the excursions north of The next day’s tour was to an elephant around the bar, sun deck and restaurant. Mandalay were pretty short. We’d usually The ship is so small that friendships be back by lunchtime, which meant are quickly formed. The Burmese long, lazy afternoons on deck, watching crewmembers are, without exception, the scenery drift by. Sunset came charming, friendly and enthusiastic. swiftly each night, followed by cocktail While Western options are available, hour and a talk on the following day’s I went for full immersion in Burmese activities. Dinner was always a sociable, cuisine in the restaurant: pickled tea friendly time and we stayed up late a leaf, shredded ginger salad and an oily, couple of nights watching movies about flavour-packed coconut chicken soup Myanmar in the lounge. I found that for breakfast. There’s plenty of choice, any understanding of politics at all went though, and requests were willingly met, a long way to appreciating this beautiful including a deviation across the border but troubled country. to Thai food when a few of us begged for I was almost sorry to reach Mandalay, green papaya salad. where the river traffic increases and you Highs: Beautiful cabins, all with French One of the attractions of the north is lose that sense of being the only tourists balconies. Excellent food and a very sailing through a deep gorge known as in town. But from here onwards, on the good excursion program. the Second Defile. Wisps of fog on the southbound route, the big attractions Lows: Barely any internet in the glassy water at sunrise gave the scene come thick and fast: extravagantly north. Some might see the stateroom an ethereal feel. Further south, the river adorned golden Buddhas, the romantic announcements as intrusive – and you U Bein teak bridge and beyond can’t turn them off. Mandalay, the 2,000-plus pagodas of Best suited to: Adventurers who Clockwise from top left: young monks; Bagan. The north is more about the enjoy luxurious accommodation and Avalon Myanmar Panorama Lounge; chefs people and the scenery. And that’s what’s want to see the “real” Myanmar at the preparing meals on board; temples at great about this cruise. You really do get same time. Bagan; mother and baby elephant; Avalon the best of both worlds. Myanmar Stateroom Words Sue Bryant
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Another road to Mandalay
THE VERDICT
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A massive Asian investment in the most awarded luxury line at sea is transforming Crystal Cruises into a brand, with jets, yachts, submarines and river ships. Teresa Ooi boarded Crystal Symphony to test the line’s legendary service.
Cut Crystal
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y first meeting with David the butler is unforgettable. Impeccably dressed in a morning suit, pinstriped trousers with slicked-back hair, he takes my right hand, kisses it and kicks his left foot in the air. Of course, I am bowled over. If this is what the next nine days is going to be like on Crystal Symphony, the Connoisseur’s China voyage from Beijing to Hong Kong is going to be a ball. And indeed it is. For more than two decades, Crystal Cruises has been perfecting its onboard experience with a level of service other cruise lines talk about in hushed tones. Crystal is the most awarded line in the industry. Its unrivalled reputation as the epitome of luxury travel has seen it crowned the best mid-size cruise line in Conde Nast Traveler magazine Readers’ Choice Awards for 22 years in a row. It has also been Travel + Leisure magazine’s World’s Best Cruise Line for 20 consecutive years and Virtuoso’s Best Luxury Cruise Line for two-consecutive years – 2014 and 2015. Considering the likes of Seabourn, Silversea and SeaDream are no slouches when it comes to food and service, that’s pretty impressive.
Clockwise from left: David the butler; onboard dance teachers Paul Zaidman and Anna Selleck; dining room
Since Crystal was purchased by Genting Hong Kong, the line has embarked on a significant brand expansion and introduced three new styles of luxury cruising: Crystal Yacht Cruises with the launch of the 62-guest Crystal Esprit last December; European river cruising with Crystal Mozart launching this July; and polar voyages when megayacht Crystal Endeavor hits the water in late 2018. The line also launched Crystal Luxury Air in April.
When our ship docks at Shanghai for three days, Genting chairman Tan Sri KT Lim is among the 100 new guests who come on board. But that’s all in the future. Right now, looming large before us in Tianjin International Port Terminal, about a three-hour drive from Beijing, is the Crystal Symphony, a sleek, handsome ship snuggling up to the wharf while David is no doubt polishing the silverware.
www.cruisepassenger.com.au cruiseandtravelasia.com
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‘We set off aboard this decadent palace of temptation, cruising down China’s coast.’ FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Crystal Cruises VESSEL: Crystal Symphony PASSENGER CAPACITY: 960 STAR RATING: 4.5 TOTAL CREW: 570 PASSENGER DECKS: 10 ENTERED SERVICE: 1995 FACILITIES: Fitness centre, Crystal Spa, two pools, library, golf nets, cinema, eight eateries, computer centre, butler service for penthouse suites. BOOKINGS: 11-night Ancient Dynasties cruise on Crystal Sympony, from Hong Kong to Incheon via Shanghai, is priced from US$4,015 per person twin share. See crystalcruises.com
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A mid-sized ship, the Symphony’s corridors are wide, the staterooms generously appointed and penthouses are modern with queen-sized beds, a pillow menu and plush furnishings. At 37 square metres, my penthouse is large enough to fit a sitting area with sofa and table and a roomy walk-in wardrobe. The bathroom has a Jacuzzi bathtub, two marble basins and a shower room with a powerful Grohe shower. Larger-thanusual sized bottles of Aveda toiletries are topped up daily. For me, the mark of a good five-star ship is the quality of its towels and Crystal’s Egyptian-cotton wraps are so luxuriously fluffy and spotlessly white, and the thick bathrobe so comfortably snug, I am completely won over. Fine wine, premium spirits, soft drinks and bottled water are in the fridge – all included, naturally. All penthouses have a verandah with a table and two chairs. Great for sitting out on while David unpacks my bags, presses my clothes and shines my shoes. Every evening, when the sun sets, a selection of canapés and champagne arrives in my cabin. There is always a box of chocolates on the table. The most expensive suites are on the highest level, deck 10, with a total of 65
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Clockwise from left: penthouse bedroom; Sushi Bar; sculpture in the Crystal Symphony foyer; sushi, Nobu
penthouse suites. There are five butlers serving the penthouses, and they also share responsibility for looking after the ship’s captain, Mark Symonds, and three senior officers. David tends to my every whim and I hardly notice he is shared. After an Elemis facial at the ship’s Crystal Spa – a 50-minute massage combining microdermabrasion and oxygen – I feel so relaxed I just can’t face putting on my glad rags for dinner. So I call David. He suggests a Japanese bento box and a side serve of sushi and sashimi from Silk Road, a speciality restaurant by renowned Nobu Matsuhisa. In minutes, David shimmers in, raises the level of my lounge table, dresses it in a crisp, white tablecloth and serves the meal with a glass of champagne. Every morsel is a delight. I am beginning to understand why some consider a butler one of life’s essentials and why service really defines the level of a luxury cruise line. As you would expect aboard a ship of this class, the food is consistently good. The Crystal Dining Room is tastefully refined with a choice of modern cuisine. Dishes include seared Ahi tuna with cress salad for starters and pan-seared baby halibut or pink-roasted, milk-fed veal rib-eye steak for mains.
ur nine-day cruise travelled from Beijing to Shanghai and Hong Kong. Cruising up the Huangpu River to dock in front of the futuristic Oriental Pearl TV and Radio Tower was a real high point (no pun intended). The Huangpu River is so busy, cargo-laden ships, small pleasure craft and seriously expensive yachts constantly cross the waterway. Like the city, the river never sleeps. We docked at Shanghai International Cruise Terminal, just a 15-minute coach ride from The Bund, where most of the action is in this great global city With a population of 24 million, Shanghai is always teeming. I took the five-hour tour to visit old and new Shanghai, reasonably priced at US$59 per person. We visited The Bund, the financial hub fronting the Huangpu River and the Jade Buddha Temple – jam packed with visitors, both local and foreign. After a chaotic time spent queuing to visit the sitting and reclining Jade Buddha, we were told no photographs were allowed. Not a pleasant experience. We then visited the Yu Yuan Gardens which date back to the Ming Dynasty. I took a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing tour of Shanghai and hopped off at the French Concession, known as Xintiandi, a popular tourist haunt full of eateries, boutique shops, bars and restored historical buildings. A good place to browse and pick up the odd souvenir although prices are steeper than tax-free Hong Kong. When Crystal Symphony arrived in Kowloon, Hong Kong’s port, it was time for me to bid farewell to David and the ship, but I decide to add on a two-day stopover. I stayed at the Landmark Oriental Hotel, smack in the middle of Central – ultramodern and super-cool. Rooms are certainly cutting edge, and there was a circular Jacuzzi bath in the middle of my suite. The hotel also boasts one of Asia’s best spa and wellness complexes, spread over two floors where I bumped into the famous Hong Kong heart-throb actor Tony Leung, a regular patron. The body massage by a Nepalese masseuse was so relaxing that I curled up in bed, watched TV and promptly fell asleep. In contrast the older, sister hotel, the Mandarin Oriental, overlooks the harbour and has a more classic charm. With a chaise strategically placed in the corner of the picture window, it was tempting to contemplate the harbour while sipping fragrant jasmine tea. But vibrant Hong Kong is not a place to laze around.
So I took an eclectic tour of the city with guide Vivian Wong. We visited the hip PMQ (Police Married Quarters) that has been transformed into a hub of small boutiques selling art and home furnishings; we dined at Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen & Bar. Head chef Gilles Bosquet said its casual concept appeals to the local palette and recommended the traditional shepherd’s pie of braised lamb, onions and carrots, chopped kale, red cabbage, shaved fennel, pumpkin and sunflower seeds with white balsamic dressing, and sticky toffee pudding with Muscovado caramel and clotted cream. It was a very British culinary experience – and a reminder that such hearty fare, when well prepared, can taste delicious. You can’t leave Hong Kong without having wonton noodles at Mak’s Noodle in Wellington Street, Central. Served in tiny bowls with four wontons and al dente egg noodles, they are the best I’ve eaten. By now, the Crystal Symphony would be heading out to sea. I wondered what David would make of my culinary bliss eating noodles at a hole-in-the-wall cafe.
ONSHORE EXCURSIONS
Clockwise from above: Yu Yuan Gardens, Shanghai; doll, PMQ, Hong Kong; Pearl Tower, Shanghai; Landmark Oriental Hotel spa
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For those wanting more traditional fare, there’s the Crystal classic menu with crab bisque or shrimp cocktail with horseradish sauce for appetiser and grilled black-Angus sirloin steak or panfried Tasmanian salmon fillet for mains. The specialty restaurants are Silk Road, which includes a small Sushi Bar serving Alaskan crab and sashimi by executive chef Toshiaki Tamba, and Prego, with its fine Italian fare. Prego’s signature antipasti dish is black-Angus carpaccio with a mustard sauce and Caravaglio capers. The warm lobster poached in sage butter served on a bean, zucchini and tomato salad was divine. The lavender-roasted duck breast for my main course was served with balsamic cherries, chestnut and poached radish. Fantastico! Prego’s signature dessert is “Affogato”, espressoflavoured lady fingers layered with light mascarpone cheese and ice-cream. Absolutely wicked. Every night, Silk Road, and its sixseater sushi bar, is packed. Starters range from grilled Australian wagyu beef to Nobu-style sashimi salad. Mains include stir-fried lobster with asparagus, shiitake mushrooms and snap peas finished with truffle-yuzu sauce, and black cod marinated with Saikyo miso served with
THE VERDICT Highs: Lots of elegant open space so there’s no sense of overcrowding, attentive service, consistently fine food and well-priced on-shore excursions. Lows: Be prepared for rough weather; on-shore guides (university students) in Xiamen could be better trained; guides in Shanghai lacked initiative (should have reordered our tour due to overcrowding at the Jade Temple). Best suited to: Well-heeled, worldly travellers who like to be spoiled and meet other international passengers; solo women who love a twirl on the dance floor.
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The iLuminate: Imagine show
‘There is lots to do after dinner with a variety of live shows’ peach and young ginger. Nobu’s dishes often look too good to eat, but trust me, they taste even better than they look. And so we set off aboard this decadent palace of temptation, cruising down China’s coast from Tianjin toward our first port of call, Yantai. It is early April and that can mean inclement weather. A combination of 40-knot winds, fog and three-metre swells make things a little bumpy, forcing Captain Symonds to cancel the Yantai stop and power on to Shanghai. This means another day at sea, but there is plenty to do – morning yoga sessions, learning to make digital films at Crystal’s Computer University at Sea, destination lectures, a golf clinic, salsa lessons, and movies at the Hollywood Theatre with popcorn and soda. One group of passengers has arranged their own entertainment – 192 African American passengers have brought their own DJ and every other night they hold a themed dance after dinner, with music from the 1960s, 70s and 80s. For those who don’t travel with a dance partner, one of the attractions of Crystal Symphony is its four ambassador
hosts, available to partner women travelling alone or whose husbands would rather sit this one out. There is lots to do after dinner with a variety of live shows and dance performances at the Galaxy Lounge. The stand-out performance is the exclusive iLuminate: Imagine show, combining technology, song and dance. And yes, there is karaoke at Luxe night club. Like all five-star ships, Crystal has a smart-casual dress code for evening, but when the captain holds his welcome reception at the Starlite Club, everyone dresses for the formal occasion, the women in glittering cocktail dresses and long gowns (probably pressed by David, who does just about everything for his coterie of passengers). Originally from Chile, David speaks four languages – Spanish, English, Portuguese and Hungarian – and has worked for Crystal for 11 years. “I am very, very happy working at Crystal. My job is not boring – everyday is different.’’ And does he expect a tip? “It’s an allinclusive cruise – if they tip me at the end of the journey, I am happy, but I am not expecting it.” Of course, I leave a tip.
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hile nine in 10 Asian cruisers sailed within the region, there is one outstanding favourite destination for most of the rest. Among long-haul cruisers, 60 per cent went to Europe. And Asian travellers seeking more adventure are planning to expand their horizons this year, according to findings in the latest TripBarometer study published by TripAdvisor. That means more trips to Europe. Robin Yau from Uniworld – one of Europe’s biggest-selling luxury brands, told Cruise&Travel Asia his business is up 45 per cent this year. Small wonder Europe is popular. It offers ocean cruising in romantic locations such as the Mediterranean and river cruising through some of the most historic locations on the planet. There are four major regions for ocean cruising in Europe: the eastern
Mediterranean, western Mediterranean, the British Isles and Western Europe, and the Baltic Sea. The Mediterranean is the second most popular cruising destination in the world, behind the Caribbean. The sea is ringed by the world’s great ancient cities, fashion capitals and cultural powerhouses. At the same time, visitors to the Med can still experience sleepy fishing villages, crumbling ruins and white sand beaches. You’ll also be spoilt for choice when it comes to cruise lines. From huge, resort liners carrying 5,000 people (or more) to luxury small ships and everything in between, there’s a ship to suit every kind of cruiser. Western Mediterranean itineraries cover Italy, France and Spain, calling at iconic cities such as Rome, Florence, Genoa, Barcelona, Seville and Nice. These cruises can also extend to the Canary Islands and North Africa, with stops
the big trip:
Europe
For those venturing out of Asia, a European cruise is the top pick and there is so much choice, from rivers winding through historic towns to the Mediterranean’s glamorous ports and islands. Lucy Jones reports.
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less than 200 passengers make their way along winding rivers, pulling up right in the centre of towns along the way. The ships are only a few decks high and move at a sedate pace, so there’s plenty of time to sit back and take in the view. Many cabins have floor to ceiling glass windows to make the most of the scenery passing by just a few metres away. The Rhine, Main and Danube are the river favourites with itineraries between Amsterdam and Vienna or Budapest. The ultimate European river journey is a two-week cruise through the heart of the continent, sailing from Amsterdam
ASIAN CRUISE REPORT
in Morocco or Tunisia. In the eastern Mediterranean, ships depart from Athens or Istanbul and sail around the Greek islands, along the coast of Turkey and even across to Lebanon or Israel. With just 240 kilometres of water in the English Channel separating the United Kingdom from mainland Europe, it’s easy to explore Western Europe and the British Isles in just a few days. Popular departure points are Southampton and Dover in England, and Hamburg and Kiel in Germany, calling at ports in Ireland, Scotland, the Netherlands, France and Belgium. Further north, cruise ships ply the cold waters around Scandinavia and Russia, cruising through narrow fjords. The most popular destination here is St Petersburg and most cruises spend at least one night in port to give passengers more time to explore. Other popular destinations include Oslo, Copenhagen, Stockholm, Helsinki, Tallinn and Riga. Scandinavia is one of the most expensive destinations in Europe, so a cruise represents great value. River cruising is an entirely different experience. Small, narrow ships carrying
to Budapest along the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers. The cruise finishes in front of the spectacular Hungarian Parliament Building. Shorter journeys travel along the Rhine from Amsterdam to Basel; make a round trip-journey from Passau, Germany, along the Danube to visit Vienna; or along the Rhone through Provence and Burgundy. New rivers are opening up to cruisers looking to experience something different, such as the Po in Italy, the Douro in Portugal and the Elbe in the Czech Republic.
Clockwise from above left: sailing past the Hagia Sofia, Istanbul, Turkey; the Eiffel Tower, Paris; Les Andelys on the River Seine, France; Santorini, Greece.
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he old-world charm of Central Europe provides an amazing backdrop to a cruise on the Danube River. It’s a celebration of nature’s glory and man’s genius. We are aboard Avalon Vista for a five-day river cruise from Passau in Germany to Vienna in Austria. It’s a journey that allows us to appreciate this stunning route. Vista is one of Avalon Waterways’ Suite Ships, which specialise in scenic cruises along the legendary Danube, Rhine and Main rivers in Europe. Avalon Waterways has just added two more Suite Ships to its European fleet, christening Avalon Passion on the Danube in April a week after launching Avalon Imagery II on the Rhine. It now has a total of 12 Suite Ships in
an overall European fleet of 16 vessels. Avalon Vista has two full decks of suites that feature wall-to-wall panoramic windows, turning the living space into a unique open-air balcony. As Vista sails, we pass medieval castles and churches, as well as centuries-old palaces and piazzas. The views take my breath away. As we cruise to Grein, a small city in Austria, the scenes on both banks of the Danube are picturesque, dreamy even. Trees jut out from a hill in the distance. Some are bare, others are springing to life with leaves. Winter is bidding adieu, welcoming springtime. Kingfishers and herons fly aimlessly, sometimes shadowing the ship. In Grein, where quiescence is the order
of the day, we witness with glee the oldest still-in-use theatre in Austria, built in 1790 with a seating capacity of 165. Our guide tells us Napoleon Bonaparte once watched a performance here. And at the drop of the hat, so to speak, I take to the stage and render a few songs from Les Misérables and Miss Saigon. I win the hearts of my fellow passengers, including a family with young children. We have become friends. Grein, for its small size and quiet aura, has a big heart and a dignified culture all its own. The following morning, I wake up to see patches and patches of wild white daisies in Melk, an Austrian city famous for its Abbey Museum and the Renaissance Schallaburg Castle. Orange daffodils and yellow tulips guide our way to the castle.
Cruising the Danube River through Germany and Austria, Tenorio Jr Cresencio gives himself up to the flow of history.
the blue danube
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ASIAN CRUISE REPORT Schoenbuehel Castle on the banks of the Danube near Melk in Austria
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Clockwise from left: Avalon Vista Panorama Suite; Naturhistorisches Museum, Vienna; Hofburg Palace; Krems; Melk Abbey ceiling; Wiener Riesenrad
Nearby restaurants serve the yummiest steamed trout with boiled potatoes. Local white and milk chocolates are also my companion on the coach on the way back to the ship. A barbecue lunch awaits us on Vista’s sun deck. Grilled sausages and steaks become more appetising as the ship sails on down the Danube. Now and again, the view of old castles and churches stops us from munching our lunch. On this river cruise, I forget the days. I only remember moments, anticipate them, enjoy them to my heart’s content. I wish I had more hearts and a memory bank of a gazillion bytes so I could store all the sights and sounds I see, hear and feel. Medieval Krems is the wine capital of Austria. The vineyard of Winzer Krems is majestic, undulating, with only the hills and mountains blocking a view of the vast expanse of grape vines. The winery is a cooperative of more than 1,000 growers. It produces mainly dry white wine, which is largely consumed locally with minimal exports to neighbouring European countries, the US and Asia. Krems, anywhere you look, is charming and disarming. These characteristics are evident, too, when
THE VERDICT Highs: The glorious vistas of Vienna. Lows: Five days is not enough. Who is it for: Anyone who loves history and the beauty of old European cities. River cruising is a relaxed way to enjoy this amazing river and its historic past.
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one visits the Dominican Square, St Veit church and the Gothic Hoher Markt. A friend brings a bottle of Grüner Veltliner back to the ship. She shares it with me and our fellow cruisers. I sleep soundly that night. When I wake up, the centuries-old church of St Francis of Assisi greets me. I hear pealing bells. I am now in Vienna. This city is heaven on earth. The capital of Austria is so steeped in history that it is virtually a breathing museum. Everywhere you look, Vienna is a beautiful piece of art. It is pulsating, the clip-clopping of horse and carriage makes the old-world charm even more authentic. The Hofburg Palace is mesmerising, the Schönbrunn Palace enthralling. St Stephan Cathedral is hypnotic, inside it is an opulent, intricate place of worship. I light a candle – I am grateful for the opportunity to witness God’s creations and man’s splendid genius. I ride the Wiener Riesenrad, one of the oldest Ferris wheels on earth, built in 1897. The child in me is carried away as I feel I am riding the wheel of time. From the top, I have the vantage point of the whole of Vienna, its old buildings are mantled in history, the new ones wink at me as if saying Vienna will always welcome me. The opera concert we watch at the Museum of Military History further intensifies my love for this great city. The cruise ends here. But the Danube continues to flow. It flows from the Black Forest of Germany, passing though Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro, Romania, Bulgaria, Moldova and the Ukraine before joining the Black Sea. In my mind, it flows with beautiful, breathtaking memories. Tenorio Jr Cresencio is a regular contributor to The Philippine Star. You can see more of his work at philstar.com
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FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Avalon Waterways VESSEL: Avalon Vista PASSENGER CAPACITY: 166 STAR RATING: 4 TOTAL CREW: 47 PASSENGER DECKS: 3 ENTERED SERVICE: 2012 FACILITIES: Dining room; Panorama Bistro; bar; Sky Deck; observation lounge; fitness centre; elevator; onboard lectures and nightly entertainment; room service; hot tub; hair salon; free Wi-Fi; on-demand inroom entertainment; games area; library. BOOKINGS: Six-night cruise from Nuremburg to Vienna aboard Avalon Vista is priced from US$1,844 per person twin share. See avalonwaterways.com
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f you still had a child’s imagination, you might picture the vast North American continent as some muscular cartoon superhero whose oversized head and shoulders are the vast regions of Canada and Alaska. Together, they deliver a superhuman dose of adventure and scenic beauty that is perfect for cruisers who want to extend their experience from a vast catalogue of land-travel options. It’s not surprising that this northern American expanse is the second favourite destination for Asian cruisers venturing out of their home region. More than 1.8 million Asians visited Canada in 2015, an increase of 6.5 per cent on the previous year, and the most recent figures from the Alaska Department of Commerce listed Japan and Korea as Alaska’s fourth and fifith largest tourism markets, with strong growth also coming from China and Taiwan. Both Canada and Alaska have well developed tourism infrastructure with people who understand the business and treat visitors accordingly, and when it comes to cruise, there are numerous options. Last summer (May to September), 56 per cent of visitors to Alaska were cruise passengers. From the perspective of cruising, Canada and Alaska can be considered the same territory. Wildlife, Inuit culture and the unique geography of North America pays no heed to political boundaries. Many cruise lines offer itineraries that seamlessly cross the borders, so you can enjoy the best of both countries at sea and ashore. The western (Pacific) coast is where you’ll find the most popular destinations,
with the legendary Inside Passage and stupendous Rocky Mountains being the big-ticket drawcards. From secluded, picturesque towns such as Sitka and Juneau in Alaska to the sophisticated metropolis of Vancouver, visitors are flocking there in droves, and with good reason. However, toward the east, the historic and stately capitals of Montreal and Quebec City offer the chance to immerse yourself in the sophisticated character of cities that were founded at the beginning of European settlement in the 17th century. And yes, you can cruise by big ship right into the heart of Montreal, or explore the countryside and remote territories by small ship as far as Greenland and the USA. When you are ashore, rail travel is another of the big attractions of both Canada and Alaska. The famous Rocky Mountaineer is a delightful and perfectly suitable side trip for any cruiser visiting Vancouver. The train has also recently extended its reach to Seattle in case you are cruising from or flying in or out of that other popular port. In fact, if you are a real train buff, you can travel all the way to the Atlantic coast using the Canadian National Railway Company. Likewise in Alaska, a summer railroad journey on the celebrated Alaska Railroad is a perfect companion adventure to any Inside Passage cruise and allows you to get close to that glorious scenery always teasing you from the deck of your cruise ship. There is so much to see and do, a cruise alone does not do justice to the immense adventure emporium that is Canada and Alaska. So take your time and plan what could turn out to be the trip of a lifetime.
PHOTOGRAPH: MICHELLE VALBERG/ADVENTURE CANADA
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From the icy beauty of the Inside Passage to the majesty of the Rocky Mountains, Canada and Alaska are a popular destination for Asian cruisers. Roderick Eime reports.
true north
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Spot the big Five
Wildlife watching is one of the big attractions in Canada and Alaska. Roderick Eime takes a walk on the wild side.
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hen you’re out in the woods and, instead of a walking pole, your guide is carrying a high-powered hunting rifle, you know this is no ordinary walk in the park. Of course, not every one of Canada and Alaska’s “Big Five” is out to eat you, but your wilderness guide is serious when he warns you not to go out on your own, or unarmed. Just as Africa has its Big Five wildlife list, so does North America and you can see every one of them on your Canada and Alaska holiday if you keep your eyes open and pick your seasons.
staggering 20,000 Pacific grey whales travel approximately 10,000 kilometres from Mexico’s Baja Peninsula to summer feeding grounds off Alaska and eastern Russia, the longest migration of any mammal. There are 22 species of whale in Canada and Alaska. Humpbacks are another favourite and their antics of breaching clear out of the water makes a true gold-medal sighting. Just be careful not to get too close in your kayak! For the truly intrepid, it’s possible to find the delightful and highly intelligent beluga whales.
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Whales (best season: May-October)
The most popular and easily seen whales are the greys, humpbacks and orcas, all of which frequent the western shores. In fact, each year from March to May, a 66
Wolves (best season: April-October)
These much-maligned creatures have suffered badly at the hands of humans, being shot out completely in several regions, but now the signature howling
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ASIAN CRUISE REPORT Clockwise from far left: Moose spotting by canoe; timber wolf; orca; coastal brown bear and cub; bald eagle
can be heard echoing across the valleys at night. Researchers believe that there could be as many as 10,000 grey wolves in British Columbia alone and sighting these mysterious animals is a high possibility if you take one of the many wilderness adventures on offer.
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Bears (best season: April-October for brown/black bears; October-November for polar bears) Sighting one of these powerful mammals is a high point of a northern adventure. You’re most likely to see either brown or black, but the two are rarely found together, and live very separate lives in the dense coastal forests. You can get quite close to wild bears at places such as the Anan Bear and Wildlife Observatory near Wrangell, Alaska. Polar bears are more elusive and you’ll need to get up into Canada’s high Arctic to see them. The most popular (accessible) polar bear viewing is in Churchill, Manitoba where migrating bears wait for the winter ice to form so they can go out and hunt. You’ll
need to take a special tundra buggy and you may be lucky enough to see beluga whales at the same time.
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Eagles (best season: April-October) You’ll see so many of these fabulous birds, you’ll start not to notice, although you will never fail to be impressed with the magnificent raptors. Bald eagles, in particular, can be found all over Alaska and Canada during the summer, particularly in forested areas close to lakes, rivers and the sea for fishing and nesting, especially around salmon time. You’ll feel really smug if you manage to see a massive wild golden eagle, whose wings can span well over two metres. These regal creatures are celebrated in mythology all across North America and are particularly common in British Columbia.
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Moose, elk, caribou and bison
(best season: June-October) These massive, hooved herbivores pretty much roam wherever they like, so you really don’t know when you’re going to
see one. It’s not an exaggeration to expect to see an elk or moose walking down the main street of a remote town, which is why Canadian drivers are always on the alert. The much rarer bison can be harder to find, but Highway 97, the Alaska Highway, for example, will take you through Stone Mountain Provincial Park where herds of bison, with as many as 30 to 50 individuals, are a common sight in the summer months.
And the rest…
It seems a shame to declare these five the only animals worth looking out for, because there are so many more you’ll see and enjoy such as otters, smaller birds and even fish such as the Pacific salmon that migrate in huge numbers from September through November. The most rewarding way to see any of these creatures, big five or otherwise, is to happen upon them in the wild as they go about their business, but failing that there are several parks, aquariums and sanctuaries where captive animals – often undertaking rehabilitation – can be seen up close. cruiseandtravelasia.com 67
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CRUISE PLUS: RAIL
MURDER THE
ON
ORIENT EXPRESS?
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CRUISE PLUS: RAIL
It’s a cruise – but not as you know it. Peter Lynch boards the train with a name made famous by Agatha Christie.
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he similarities are everywhere. We travel through three countries and unpacked only once. There are “shore excursions”, a tour director and a butler service. But this is no sea cruise. The Eastern and Oriental Express is the heaviest and longest train in Southeast Asia and we are rattling along the metre-wide Thai tracks at up to 90 kilometres an hour. More and more cruise lines are offering links with the ribbons of steel that cross the continents, from The Ghan in Australia to Canada’s Rocky Mountaineer – and, of course, the legendary Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, the actual setting for Ms Christie’s famous detective story. The Eastern and Oriental Express is a sister train to the European icon and owner Belmond has a truly eclectic portfolio of hotels, cruise ships and trains that allow it to create some amazing journeys. Asia has become a particular favourite and the Eastern and Oriental Express is an old-style adventure. Sadly, the days of steam are over. Today, we’re being pulled by a couple of diesels from the rather unromantic State Railway of Thailand. But from the observation car at the back of 22 brilliantly restored luxury carriages, including two restaurant and two bar cars, a library and a series of sleeping cars, you could be being pulled by the Flying Scotsman. The observation car is open-air and next to a cocktail bar. In the early morning, with a mug of Doi Chaang Thai coffee and a croissant, watching lush rice paddies pass by is a relaxing start to the day.
Enjoying the view from the observation car; Eastern and Oriental Express map
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‘In the early morning, watching lush rice paddies pass by is a relaxing start to the day.’ In the evening, diners – some in black tie with cigars (what decadence!), sit nursing brandy looking out at the dim village lights. Dressing up for dinner is encouraged, to create a special ambience. The dining cars, with brass fittings and crystal glasses, are a feat of engineering. And serving-up fine food from the tiny kitchen is a feat of contortion for nine chefs and French head chef Yannis Martineau. We began our journey in style, checking in at Singapore’s famed Raffles Hotel. A dining room had been set aside, where snacks, tea and Singapore Slings awaited. As we surveyed our 67 fellow guests, predominantly British and Americans, we felt an air of mystery and intrigue. There was no shortage of Hercule Poirot-like figures. But surely, there would be no murder on this Orient Express. A short coach ride to Woodlands and there on the platform were the porters and staff, lined up in white and gold uniforms and ready to take us to our compartments. 72
A word of warning: space is at an absolute premium. Trains are a lot smaller than cruise ships and, despite the dress code, only one small case per passenger is allowed on the train. Larger bags are stowed in the luggage car. We stayed in a Pullman cabin, which meant an upper and lower bunk. Another word of warning: our second night on the Thai rail lines involved frequent stopping. We pulled, squealing, into sidings, allowing goods and passenger trains to pass. That meant starting out again, no smooth and silent task for such an iron giant. And, because of the narrow gauge, the train sways and lurches like a Russian ice breaker in a storm. Be prepared to shake, rattle and roll. Our official travel journal has these words of wisdom: “The train is in motion during the night. A few people find the sensation disturbs their sleep, particularly during the first night. If you are a sensitive or light sleeper, you may wish to bring sleeping medication.”
Once, during dinner, the head waiter suddenly shouted: “Hold on to your glasses!” Everyone grabbed the crystal as the dining car came to a juddering halt. It’s a tribute to the staff that not one glass fell to the floor. That said, this is a real adventure, conducted in a luxury setting with a faultless staff of dedicated rail buffs. The train is fully air-conditioned and has two presidential cabins, 28 state compartments measuring 84 square feet with single beds, and 30 Pullman compartments at 62 square feet with bunk beds. Cherry wood and elm-burr panelling provide the backdrop for decorative marquetry friezes and intricate inlays. The carriages originated in Japan 40 years ago and later ran in New Zealand until all 31 were bought by the Orient Express group. They were rebuilt in Singapore’s Keppel Road rail yard from designs by Gérard Gallet, the man behind much of the design and refurbishment of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.
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CRUISE PLUS: RAIL
Clockwise from above: luxury cabin; station along the way; observation car; locals working in rice paddies
THE VERDICT Highs: Completely different travel experience, with great staff and a terrific ambience. A good way to meet people and hear their stories Lows: Clinging on to my top bunk at 4am as the train started out again, I decided the ear plugs must have been someone’s idea of a joke. Best suited to: Done-it-all bucket listers who think it is better to travel hopefully than arrive. Bookings: Singapore to Bangkok – three days from US$2,520; Bangkok to Singapore – four days from US$2,645. Alcoholic drinks not included. See belmond.com/easternand-oriental-express for dates.
As we pulled out of Singapore, there were cocktails and high tea in our compartments. Our butler took us through how the shower worked, before helping us unpack. Then, at the piano bar there was singing of sorts. We arrived at Kuala Lumpur at midnight. But there was only time to stretch our legs before we set off again. After a continental breakfast in our compartment, we took a short coach ride to Kuala Kangsar and a journey back in time. This is a royal town in the state of Perak, Malaysia. At the Sultan Azlan Gallery, you can view the amazing array of possessions of the previous ruler, including a convertible Rolls Royce Corniche. The town also has the oldest rubber tree in Malaysia – the birthplace of an industry that brought the country fame and fortune. At 3pm we arrive at Padang Besar, the border with Thailand, where our Malaysian diesel is swapped for Thai engines and drivers. We pass a pleasant evening chatting with fellow passengers.
On our last day, we visit the River Kwai bridge, part of a 415-kilometre railway line built by prisoners of war and Asian labourers in just 12 months. An amazing feat that cost more than 100,000 lives. Our guide reminds us of the award-winning film Bridge over the River Kwai before telling us most of it was inaccurate. Locals had to change the name of the river from Mae Klong to Kwai Yai to appease the thousand of tourists who arrived demanding they see the site of the movie. So what do you do on a train in the evening? For a start, you eat. Chef Martineau and his team manage an amazing amalgam of fresh local produce to create a three-course East-meets-West menu, served in two sittings. We are served hoisin-glazed roasted saba with white turnip salad, a medallion of beef with foie gras croquette or ayam rendang biryani with achar, yuzu sorbet and petit fours. If only there was somewhere to walk it all off. The journey back to our cabin is like crossing a swing bridge in a high wind. cruiseandtravelasia.com
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CRUISE PLUS: FOOD
Celebrity DINING
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CRUISE PLUS: FOOD
Cruise lines, once renowned for groaning buffet tables, are now turning to famous names in food to create new dining experiences at sea. Teresa Ooi reports.
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he superstars of the culinary world have come out to cruise – and many of them are cooking up a storm on a ship near you. Almost all cruise lines have abandoned the single dining hall with multiple sittings. Now dining out while on a cruise is a little like eating in a mini-city. The latest Norwegian Cruise Line ship, Norwegian Joy, scheduled to launch in China next year and built for Asian guests, boasts more than 30 food venues. Today it’s not just signature dishes that pull in the crowds, it’s celebrity restaurants. For food-loving Asians, it’s a delight. Smaller ships, such as Oceania Cruises’ fleet even feature cooking classes and shopping for ingredients with the chef. On some ships, the extra dining treats are included in the fare. On others, there’s an extra charge. Usually, it’s exceptional value. Here’s our culinary who’s who of cruise: Genting Hong Kong, one of the biggest players in the Asian cruise market, will launch its much-anticipated Dream Cruises later this year. Billed as an integrated resort at sea, Dream Cruises will offer what it calls “the ultimate culinary journey’’ with 35 restaurants and bars “capturing the very best flavours from around the world”. There’s the casual Makan Makan cafe, locally translated as “eat-eat” street food found in Malaysia, Umi Uma Japanese created with the award-winning Nobu restaurant, Genting Palace, a fine-dining Chinese restaurant, and Temple Street, a taste of Hong Kong-inspired cuisine. There’s even a Boba Cha, offering bubble teas and Malay “kueh” (cakes). Few who have cruised on one of Genting’s Crystal Cruises ships, Crystal Symphony or Crystal Serenity, would not have tried Nobu Matsuhisa’s world renowned Silk Road and The Sushi Bar. Blending classic Japanese cuisine with a Peruvian and European touch, dishes include lobster with truffle-yuzu sauce, and Nobu Box, a beautifully presented
From top: black cod at Crystal Cruises’ Nobu; chef Nobu Matsuhisa; Princess Cruises’ SHARE by Curtis Stone; tarte au citron vert at SHARE
sampler of beef, cod and shrimp dishes that can be eaten in your suite or at the restaurant. The first reservation at Silk Road is free, but subsequent bookings cost US$30 per person. It’s worth it and many well-heeled Crystal guests book several meals there. Princess Cruises, an Asian favourite with strong routes through the region, recently recruited popular Australian chef Curtis Stone to develop SHARE. The elegant restaurant, now aboard Ruby Princess and Emerald Princess, features a menu of charcuterie, salads, handmade pastas and premium quality meats accompanied by an array of decadent desserts. Princess Cruises also has a traditional Japanese sushi bar, Kai Sushi, serving up sushi and sashimi expertly prepared before your eyes. Kai Sushi is on board Diamond Princess and Sun Princess. Star Cruises, the dominant cruise line in Asia, has executive chef Lee Eng Heng cruiseandtravelasia.com
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CRUISE PLUS: FOOD
Luke Nguyen (right) oversees food aboard AmaLotus (above); cuisine (below) by Oceania Cruises’s master chef Jacques Pepin (below right)
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heading a wide variety of eateries on board SuperStar Virgo, including the 24-hour Blue Lagoon cafe offering Asian specialties and Chinese restaurants Genting Palace, Noble House and Taipan, which features an a la carte menu. It also has a Lab Made liquid nitrogen ice-cream bar. Cruising up and down Myanmar’s Irrawaddy River, the boutique Belmond Road to Mandalay has a female Thai executive chef, Paweevasu Ahkkharakitvaikhen, known locally as Chef Imm. She has been working with Belmond for three seasons and previously worked as a private chef for a rich family and in several hotels in Asia. Chef Imm cooks Western, Asian and Thai dishes, from foie gras to mohinga (rice noodle and fish soup from Myanmar) and lychee sorbet. Her tamarind salad dressing is a stand-out and her grilled river prawns with garlic and lemon juice is hard to beat. If you like Thai food as it is eaten on the streets of Bangkok, Aqua Expeditions has enlisted renowned Australian Thai chef David Thompson as its consulting chef on Aqua Mekong. Thompson has incorporated the culinary traditions of Mekong River cultures with the freshest ingredients to create dishes such as river prawns with ginger, shallots, tamarind and palm sugar served on betel leaves, Cambodian green curry of catfish, and lemon basil cashew nut pudding with coconut cream. This year, Thompson will run chef-hosted cruises on Aqua Mekong with tours to local markets, cooking lessons in the ship’s kitchen and Q&A sessions so passengers can get some tips on his culinary creations. In a similar vein, Vietnamese-Australian chef Luke Nguyen is the star attraction of APT’s Mekong River cruises on board AmaLotus. His personable and charming take on how to pick the freshest ingredients and cook local aromatic dishes is something that keen followers of Vietnamese cuisine will not want to miss. On some APT cruises, Nguyen will also host “foodie” nights in Ho Chi Minh City where many of his relatives still run market stalls. As a precursor to the cruise, Nguyen will accompany passengers on market expeditions, regaling them with local anecdotes. The tour ends with a cooking lesson at his Grain school, where Nguyen will teach passengers how to cook zucchini flowers stuffed with fresh diced prawns mixed with dill, dipped in a light batter of potato starch then quickly fried. They
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taste heavenly. His spicy steamed sea bass wrapped in banana leaf served with a tangy green mango salad is out of this world. For two sailings this year, in July and December, Nguyen will be on board the refurbished AmaLotus cooking degustation meals at the ship’s new restaurant, Indochine, with seating for just 16. P&O Cruises has a long association with celebrity Sydney chef Luke Mangan whose growing international reputation has seen him open his first Salt grill bar on board Pacific Eden. It is next to his fifth Salt grill restaurant where he serves his crab omelette in miso broth, curry-crusted tuna, beef carpaccio finished with liquorice parfait – all absolutely divine. Costa Cruises’ head executive chef Asia, Anna Kim, hails from Korea and was trained at the California Culinary Academy. She has previously worked at Nobu, Gordon Ramsay and the Four Seasons Hotel in the US, and is also a judge of the World Association of Chef Societies. On Oceania Cruises in the Mediterranean, legendary French chef Jacques Pepin has waved his culinary wand on Red Ginger
restaurant, is known for its Asian classic claypot of caramelised chicken and misoglazed seabass. Pepin’s French restaurant, Jacques, is also on Marina and Riviera. Pepin will host two cruises this November where guests can dine on specially designed signature menus, and attend lectures and culinary demonstrations. His daughter, Claudine Pepin, is a celebrity chef in her own right and is godmother to Oceania’s new ship, Sirena. She will be hosting a culinary cruise on Sirena in October. British chef Jamie Oliver has opened Jamie’s Italian on Royal Caribbean’s Quantum of the Seas and is set to open more. Then there’s the experienced Singaporean chef Eric Teo from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Singapore who led a fine dining, health, wellness and karaoke cruise aboard Marina of the Seas charted by Chan Brothers, one of the leading travel agents in the city state. During the cruise, Teo held cooking demonstrations classes and cooked a six-course Chinese banquet for guests. As Asians develop a taste for holidays at sea, one thing’s for sure, celebrity chefs will be enticing them to dine in style.
Luke Mangan and his latest Salt grill on board Pacific Eden
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CRUISE PLUS: WELLNESS
… e g n a h C a Se
The whole point of a cruise is to come back looking and feeling relaxed and refreshed. But what if you could come back looking really refreshed, courtesy of a little onboard nip and tuck? Lucy Jones takes a look at the world of cruise ship cosmetic surgery.
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ou could call Jeanette Sian the queen of onboard cosmetic treatments. As director of Medi-Spa operations for Steiner Leisure, she is in charge of an army of doctors providing treatments aboard an armada of the world’s most luxurious ships. Steiner Leisure is the major player in the industry and has facilities onboard more than 140 ships from 16 lines, including Carnival, P&O, Holland America, Princess Cruises, Norwegian Cruise Line, Royal Caribbean, Azamara, Crystal Cruises, Costa Cruise Line, Seabourn, Silversea and Cunard. Not all provide cosmetic treatments, but more than 60 of them do. “Non-surgical aesthetic treatments are highly sought after by many cruise
passengers, both men and women, all over the world. A cruise is a fantastic time to try new things and/or do something for yourself; it is this attitude that motivates guests to experience a medi-spa service while on a cruise,” says Ms Sian. Steiner’s numbers are steadily increasing, both with repeat customers and first timers, reflecting the trends on land. According to figures from the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, more than 10 million nonsurgical procedures were performed throughout the world in 2014. The US leads the market, followed by Brazil, Japan and South Korea. Minor, non-invasive procedures such as muscle relaxants (like Botox) and
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CRUISE PLUS: WELLNESS dermal fillers are increasingly popular. The American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery found that the number of these procedures performed had risen by 45 per cent in two years. Because these procedures are classified as nonsurgical, they don’t need to be performed in a hospital and recovery time is minimal. Here’s a round up of popular cosmetic treatments available at sea. MUSCLE RELAXANTS Delivered through a series of tiny injections in the face, the solution “relaxes” the muscles, meaning they can’t form wrinkles and the skin appears smoother and more refreshed. The most common brand is Botox, but there are many others on the market such as Dysport and Xeomin that work in the same way. Muscle relaxants developed a bad reputation in the 1990s and 2000s for giving people a frozen look where they were unable to move their face at all, but modern treatments tend to be softer and give a more natural result. There’s no real recovery time, save for a few red marks right after treatment, and pain is minimal. The effects are noticeable within about four days and last for up to six months. DERMAL FILLERS Another facial injection, fillers work to plump out lines. They are generally used around the mouth and can also be used to enhance the lips. Be warned: these injections tend to be quite painful. Some people even report that, while they loved how it looked, the experience was too painful to repeat. You will also be left with some bruising for a few days after treatment, but this can be covered with makeup. The results can last for up to a year and may even, in theory, promote new collagen growth in your skin. TEETH WHITENING Most ships use the Go Smile system, a hydrogen-peroxide gel that whitens without using lasers. The effects should be noticeable immediately and teeth can be as much as six shades whiter, though results vary on an individual basis. The solution does have the potential to burn your mouth and can leave you with sensitive teeth, so steer clear if you have a history of dental problems. New treatments will become available on ships as the quality of spa facilities improves and the technology becomes more affordable.
IS IT SAFE?
The general criticism of cosmetic treatments at sea is that they are administered by spa technicians rather than doctors, but that’s not necessarily true. “All Medi-Spa consultations and treatments are performed by a licensed physician who specialises in facial rejuvenation. Guests know they are in the hands of a professional and feel safe trying something new,” says Ms Sian. Physicians must hold a medical degree from a recognised college or university, hold a current medical license and have a
be at your own expense. In the worst case scenario, your insurer can even refuse to cover any claims you make from the trip if they determine that you travelled for the purpose of medical tourism. That means, they can deny a claim for lost luggage if they discover that you also underwent cosmetic procedures on the same journey. The onboard spa will have its own insurance, but it can be difficult to follow up if problems arise once you’ve left the ship. Your case will be against the spa operator itself, rather than the cruise line, and this
‘A cruise is a fantastic time to try new things and do something for yourself.’ minimum of two years clinical experience. They must then undergo a five-day training course conducted by Steiner’s medical director, a board-certified plastic surgeon. If you’re concerned, check with the spa and find out about the qualifications of their staff before you let anyone near you with a needle. There’s also the question of your recourse if something goes wrong. It’s very rare for a travel insurance policy to cover you at all if you’re having cosmetic surgery performed overseas, which for all intents and purposes includes a cruise ship. If you need any emergency treatment or a follow-up consultation at home, it will
could mean complicated and expensive legal proceedings, and no guarantee of compensation. And if you’re worried, as this writer was, that the movement of the ocean might result in some misplaced jabs, fear not. Steiner assures us that the seas are rarely rough enough to create serious movement onboard and, if they are, they will happily reschedule. It’s also worth noting that the spa staff aboard ships generally work on commission and are trained to sell – and the sales pitch can be quite intense. Expect to be offered additional treatments or expensive products. cruiseandtravelasia.com
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CRUISE PLUS: GOLF
Onboard simulators and themed cruises to some of the world’s premier courses are luring golfers to sea. Lucy Jones reports.
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3 TOP GOLF CRUISES
Clockwise from right: instruction with a golf pro aboard Crystal Symphony; golf simulator on Europa 2; Celebrity Solstice
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hink a cruise holiday means you have to leave your golf clubs behind? Think again. The combination of cruise and golf has come a long way from the scruffy putt putt course with holes punctuated by twirling windmills and bobbing palm trees (though those are still onboard if that’s more your thing). In theory, golfers can take any cruise and play a round or two at ports along the way, but there are a few lines that offer golf-themed cruises.
Tee-off at sea
Onboard golf simulators used to be all the rage on cruise ships, though in recent years many lines have begun to phase them out. One line that is carrying on the trend is Hapag-Lloyd, onboard its ultra-luxurious Europa 2. The ship is equipped with two state-of-the-art golf simulators where passengers can play a round at Gleneagles, St Andrews or one of the 13 other courses on offer. One of the simulators also features video analysis that will assess your swing
1 Azamara Club Cruises Irish Sea & British Open Voyage aboard Azamara Quest, 11 nights Dublin to Southampton, departing July 11, 2016, is priced from US$6,374. Courses include Old Head Golf Links, The K Club, Royal Country Down, Royal Lytham & St Annes and Gleneagles. azamaraclubcruises.com 2 Hapag-Lloyd Europa 2, 14 nights Capetown to Capetown, departing January 15, 2018, is priced from US$10,593. Play at Rossmund Golf Club, Humewood Golf Club, Durban Country Club and Pinnacle Point Golf Club. hl-cruises.com 3 Crystal Cruises Crystal Serenity, nine nights New York to Quebec City, departing October 9, 2016, is priced from US$3,940 per person (golf extra). Play The Links at Brunello, Rodd Crowbush Golf & Beach Resort and La Tempête Golf Club. crystalcruises.com
so that the onboard PGA professional can give you a detailed critique. All ships in the Crystal Cruises fleet have onboard driving ranges and putting greens. The ships are stocked with topof-the-line TaylorMade equipment and teaching clinics are run by golf pros on most sailings. Star Cruises’ flagship vessel SuperStar Virgo has a golf driving range on the Sports Deck. Passengers can putt golf balls around the grass lawns of Celebrity Cruises’ Solstice class ships.
Legendary courses
Once you’ve perfected your swing onboard, you can take that knowledge ashore with a range of golf-themed cruises. HapagLloyd’s golf cruises sail around the world so passengers can play on courses in Europe, the USA and Canada, the Caribbean, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, and South Africa. The itineraries highlight the courses available on each voyage and cruisers can purchase a package to play, with prices
around US$425 per course. The packages all feature the line’s first-class service, with club fittings, training, baggage services and cleaning included. Azamara Club Cruises has one of the most comprehensive golf cruising programs with specialised cruises to the British Isles, Spain, the Middle East, the Baltics and Australasia. Cruises are also timed to coincide with premier events such as the British Open. Itineraries include rounds of golf at legendary courses such as Royal Troon, Royal County Down and Barcelo Montecastillo. Prices vary depending on destination, but golfers can expect to pay an additional US$2,000 to US$5,000 on top of the standard cruise fare. One of the real charms of golf cruises is that there’s plenty to keep the non-golfer entertained. Instead of being trapped at a resort designed solely for golfers, they are travelling on a luxurious ship with endless dining options, entertainment and activities, a spa and other cruisers to meet. cruiseandtravelasia.com
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CRUISE PLUS: PHILIPPINES
Boracay
In the 1960s and 70s, the tiny island of Boracay was a secret spot on the hippie trail through Asia. By the 1990s it had become the hottest beach resort in the Philippines with new hotels springing up every week. Despite that, it has retained its laid-back charm – there are no cars on the island and no one wears high heels. The centre of the action is the aptly named White Beach. As the sun goes down, small bars and restaurants spill out onto the pristine white sand. The Philippines’ original island destination is packed with gorgeous beach resorts for every budget. For luxury travellers, it’s hard to go past the Shangri-La. The property has a private lounge at the airport and guests are whisked away by boat to the resort’s own jetty. The resort’s 219 rooms, suites and villas are scattered through tropical garden above a 250-metre white-sand beach. Once you check
in, you’ll never have to leave. There are seven bars and restaurants (including the cliff-top Sirena seafood restaurant and the romantic Rima tucked away in the tree canopy), a huge spa village, separate kids’ entertainment areas, and a range of water sports available on the private beach. Rooms start from about US$800 per night and go all the way up to US$3,000 plus for the luxury villas. Budget conscious travellers can try The Boracay Beach Resort. Set in the middle of popular White Beach, the resort is in the centre of all the action, yet still offers a secluded retreat. You can choose a traditional Filipino-style bungalow (with a rattan hammock on the verandah) or a modern garden or ocean-view suite. All rooms have air-conditioning and cable television, and breakfast is delivered to the room each morning. The resort is great value with rooms starting from about US$60 per night.
RESORT REPORT
Philippines From the historic heart of its bustling capital city to some of the world’s most beautiful and laid-back island resorts, the Philippines is an ideal pre- or post-cruise destination. Lucy Jones reports.
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CRUISE PLUS: PHILIPPINES Shangri-La, Boracay: Tree House Villa (right); beach picnic (far right)
Central Visayas
The Visayas consists of more than a thousand islands in the southeast of the Philippines and is considered the birthplace of the nation. There’s a huge diversity of language, culture, cuisine and geography across the archipelago. The most popular islands for tourists are Cebu and Bohol. Cebu is famous for gorgeous beaches and has the laid-back feel of Thailand 20 years ago. It’s a great place to learn to scuba dive. Bohol, a short ferry ride from Cebu, is known for the iconic Chocolate Hills, more than 1,200 grass-covered limestone domes that turn brown in the dry season. The island is also the natural habitat of the Philippine tarsier, the world’s smallest (and cutest) primate.
Shangri-La’s Mactan Resort and Spa is on the island of Mactan, just off the coast from Cebu City. It’s surrounded by lush, tropical gardens and fronts onto a calm beach. There are more than 400 rooms spread across the main wing and the exclusive Ocean Wing, which comes with complimentary extras and access to the Ocean Club. The resort has its own Marine Sanctuary, covering six hectares just offshore, that’s home to more than 160 species of marine life, a coral reef and two wrecks for diving. Rooms start from about US$300 per night. Panglao Island, just off the southern tip of Bohol, is one of the best spots in the country for snorkelling and diving. It’s also home to Eskaya Beach Resort, a newly refurbished beachfront property with just a handful of luxurious villas. The villas are huge, all at least 185 square metres, and all have private swimming pools. Villas start from US$525 a night plus taxes. Eskaya Beach Resort; ShangriLa’s Mactan Resort (left & below left)
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CRUISE PLUS: PHILIPPINES
El Nido
In 2013, US Travel + Leisure magazine named El Nido the best island destination in the world – and it’s hard to disagree. The region is made up of 45 islands and islets at the northern tip of the island of Palawan, the most westerly province of the Philippines. Limestone karsts tower over crystal-clear water and white-sand beaches in this laidback tropical hideaway. El Nido Resorts operates three properties set on different islands around Bacuit Bay. Pangulasian Island is the most luxurious of the three with 42 villas set either on the beach, in the gardens or perched on stilts above the forest canopy. Lagen sits between lush mountains and a calm, shallow lagoon with rooms designed to feel like traditional Filipino homes, including 18 overwater
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bungalows. Miniloc Island is designed to feel like a local fishing village and guests can swim with native jackfish right off the beach. Rates start from about US$475 per night. All of the resorts have a strong focus on sustainability and implement a number of environmentally friendly practices. Food is locally sourced and organic where possible, state-of-the-art waste management and water supply plants are in operation, guest activities are nature-based and have a low carbon footprint and nature conservation and protection programs are in place. Pangulasian Island; Beach Villa (above right); kayaking (right)
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Pamalican Island
It’s impossible to talk about resorts in the Philippines without mentioning Amanpulo. One of the original properties from the ultra-luxe Amanresorts group, Amanpulo occupies the private Pamalican Island, just to the northwest of Palawan. The island is ringed by more than six kilometres of pristine, white-sand beaches and guests arrive by private plane to the resort’s own airstrip. The resort has 40 casitas (styled after traditional Filipino stilt houses) and 11 villas, all with sweeping views over the island and the clear waters of the Sulu Sea. Guests dine on locally caught seafood and fresh vegetables grown on the island – they can even pick their own ingredients from the resort’s organic garden. Relax in a hammock on a deserted stretch of beach, see the nesting sites of green and hawksbill turtles, play tennis or learn to scuba dive. Casitas are priced from US$1,100 a night.
Manila
Prepare yourself – the Philippine capital is an assault on the senses. Manila is the most densely populated city in the world and it’s a heaving, jostling, frenetic whirl. Yes, it’s noisy, it’s dirty and it can be overwhelming, but Manila is also a vibrant, entertaining city with a rich history. The Intramuros, the historic walled town in the centre of the city is dotted with Spanish churches and crumbling colonial mansions. Manila is a great value city for luxury hotels. The Peninsula is arguably the finest property in town and basic rooms will set you back less than US$300 per night (about half what any other Peninsula will cost). The hotel, in the financial district of Makati, has played an important role in the history of the city. The pair of 11-storey towers was built in 1976 by then-president Ferdinand Marcos to impress delegates attending the International Monetary Fund conference. In 2007, it was the site of a siege between government and military, resulting in a tank ramming through the lobby wall. Now safely renovated, the rooms are enormous and rather grand (though a little old fashioned), and the public areas are flooded with natural light through huge windows. There are seven restaurants and two bars inside, and the hotel is within walking distance of some of the city’s best shopping. Get around in a jeepney, the ubiquitous brightly painted public buses the city is famous for.
WHALE SHARKS
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For something completely different, the City of Dreams integrated resort sits on Manila’s gaming strip and is a sister property to City of Dreams in Macau. The complex features three hotels (Hyatt, Nobu and Crown Towers), multiple casinos, restaurants ranging from fine dining to an all-you-can-eat buffet, luxury shopping, nightclubs and theatres. Rooms at the Hyatt start from about US$150 a night.
City of Dreams Hyatt Club King room (top); poolside at The Peninsula (above)
ilipino locals say that eight years ago, the road to Donsol from Legazpi was just a dirt track. Now the sleepy fishing village has been transformed into a vibrant town, with tourists travelling from all over the world to get a glimpse of its fascinating marine residents, whale sharks. The World Wildlife Fund has designated Donsol a protected area for the species and it is now one of the Philippines’ most visited tourist locations. Several dive companies offer whale shark tours. Whaleshark Adventure & Tours offers a variety of packages, starting at about US$87 for a six-hour tour, including the use of diving or snorkelling equipment, snacks, water and round-trip transfers from Legazpi to Donsol. It also offers Diver’s Packages from three days, including whale shark and manta ray spotting, to a five-day Ticao Leisure Dive, which includes six boat dives, one whaleshark dive, and accommodation at the Altamar Resort, Ticao Island, priced from US$888 per person. Overnight packages include breakfast, lunch and dinner. The food in Donsol is a pleasant surprise. Local delicacies include pork adobo – belly pork braised in vinegar, soy sauce, garlic oil and bay leaves, and ukoy – crispy shrimp fritters served with a vinegar dipping sauce. There’s plenty of beachside accommodation, including the AGM Beachfront Resort, with air-conditioned rooms from US$47 a night. The Elysia Beach Resort is the only resort that accepts credit cards and there are no international ATMs in Donsol. Donsol is a 90-minute drive from Legazpi, a gritty provincial capital situated at the foot of the active Mount Mayon. Legazpi is a maze of convoluted streets, market stalls and brightly painted houses. Accommodation is cheap and buses run to Donsol every few hours making it a viable alternative to staying there.
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CRUISE PLUS: HOTELS
CRUISE & TRAVEL REVIEW
The King and I Built more than 135 years ago, Bangkok’s Mandarin Oriental is five-star all the way. Peter Lynch reviews Thailand’s first hotel.
What: Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok. 48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok. Why you’d choose it: Every city has at least one hotel that captures its essence. In Bangkok, it has to be the Mandarin Oriental. It may not be slap-bang next to the city’s new, ultra-chic shopping malls, but it’s half an hour from the airport and overlooks the bustling Chao Phraya River. Its almost anonymous street entrance means that almost every time we return, we accuse our cab driver of taking us to the wrong address. But just past the grey-painted police post and up a small hill is the reassuring sight of the doorman, resplendent in his gold and grey pith helmet and white jacket. Once inside, you’ll be able to relax knowing you’re in one of Asia’s busiest and edgiest cities, watched over by the reassuringly knowledgeable staff of a truly elegant five-star hotel that has hosted royalty and heads of state. Opened in 1876, the Mandarin Oriental was the first hotel in Thailand and it revels in its glorious past. The hotel is split in two by the river, giving it a double frontage of terraces. Free and frequent teak ferries take you from the main building across the water to the Sala Rim Naam restaurant, the Oriental Spa, gym, 86
cooking school, tennis and squash courts, and jogging track. There are French, Italian, Chinese and seafood restaurants. Riverside Terrace overlooks the water which, at night, is a blaze of colour from the tour boats. The Bamboo Bar is an ultra-hip jazz joint with an African theme and a long list of cocktails. The spa is world-renowned. Where we stayed: When your room already has writing paper gold-embossed with your name, you know you’ve arrived at a five-star hotel that is the real deal. We’re overlooking the river and our Deluxe room has a fascinating view of the city and water. There is a big desk and chair, chargers and Wi-Fi, a smart-TV for news and entertainment, and a marble bathroom with bath and shower. Of course, there are chocolates and a fruit basket, card from the general manager, silk slippers and housecoats. The bed is giant-sized and the bedside cabinets contain controls for everything. There is a floor concierge to summon your lift and usher service to your room when you want it. Where we ate: We opt to try the Sala Rim Naam, which offers Thai dancing and a set menu. The hotel recently appointed chef Uemporn Yuayaipong to this venue. It’s a local tourist attraction, so we are
THE VERDICT The Mandarin Oriental is a palace of a hotel, a destination in itself sitting in one of the buzziest cities in Asia. When you are touring in a place like Bangkok, you need a safe haven. Find out more: Our room cost US$464 a night at normal rates. See mandarinoriental.com/bangkok
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CRUISE PLUS: HOTELS
pleasantly surprised by the high brochure. When we enter class, Clockwise from standards of both the food and we can’t even pronounce it, let top left: Riverside the entertainment. alone cook it. How do you turn Terrace (above); We feast on steamed prawns an assortment of tourists into Deluxe room (top far left); cooking and chilli lime sauce, deepaccomplished cooks? Patient school (left); pool fried crab meat, pomelo salad, explanation and an exuberant (below left); garden lemongrass chicken and herbed love of your subject is the (below far left) sea bass, while a troupe of answer. Chef Narain clearly charming youngsters demonstrates loves fresh Thai ingredients and Thai boxing and exotic story telling it is impossible not to get bowled along through dance. by his boyish delight in explaining the We started our evening at The Bamboo difference between a big chilli and a little Bar with an exotic lemongrass concoction, one (the small one is hot!). Thaijito, with Mekong rum, brown sugar Okay, so quite a few of the ingredients cane, fresh lemongrass, lime and ginger. It of our choo chee fak thawng (that’s grilled was accompanied by air-dried okra chips. pumpkin curry) had been prepared earlier. What else can you do? The hotel’s cooking But we are soon pounding and mixing school is a true delight. Chef Narain with the best. Kiattiyotcharoen might have come straight Best of all, we take our assorted dishes off the set of MasterChef. onto our flight a few hours later. Much to “Learn to cook traditional Thai dishes the envy of our fellow passengers, we have a such as gaeng khiew waan gai” promises the delicious picnic lunch. cruiseandtravelasia.com
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CRUISE PLUS: AIRLINES
CRUISE &TRAVEL REVIEW
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How I saved US$600 and learned to speak Scoot!
e’ve just taken off from Sydney and Aussie Captain Wayne Trent tells us the flying will be smooth all the way to Singapore. The weather is good and our 787 Dreamliner will take just seven and a half hours to travel the 6,302 kilometres to our journey’s end. It’s lunchtime and the sound of the crew’s seat belts being unbuckled signals the start of refreshments and entertainment. It also signals something unique to budget airlines: the shop is now open and literally everything’s for sale. Want more legroom? No problem. You can have a seat with 31-inch pitch, super-seats with 34-inch pitch and 30 per cent more leg room starting at US$5.39,
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Publisher Peter Lynch tries out the budget airline that is targeting cruise passengers for its next wave of travelling client and finds it Scootalicious!
or stretch seats with 50 per cent more for US$20.79 (cash on board please – we don’t take credit cards). You can even block the seats next to you. And what’s more, you can purchase on board and be upgraded after take-off. Entertainment? Sure – you can stream movies and TV series to your own lap top or hire an iPad. Food from the Scoot Café? Power to your seat? All available for cash on board, or by booking in advance. And somehow, that’s just fine. The way it should be, especially for an airline that is charging 50 per cent of a standard economy flight for a business-class seat. Scoot, the four-year-old, low-cost sibling of Singapore Airlines, is targeting the region’s young cruisers with some
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CRUISE PLUS: AIRLINES amazing deals and itineraries that fit with many Asian ports. What’s more, it’s fun. Virgin’s founder Richard Branson once said he hired inflight staff for attitude. This airline maintains its cabin stewards have “Scootitude”. In fact, they’ve invented a whole new language to describe their offerings. “Scootee” trolley-dollies ply the aisles with high energy, helping passengers tune in to ScooTV, conducting passengers to the Scootinsilence zone (US$9.24) or selling duty free from the Scootalogue. My Scootbiz seat – at 22 inches wide, bigger than most airlines’ premium economy by 1.5 inches – is certainly a step up. And it cost only US$387, just over one third of the US$1,096 Premium Economy one-way fare from Singapore Airlines. CNN’s Richard Quest recently travelled round the world in eight days using 10 budget airlines at a cost of US$2,345. His advice: “Stow your snobbery.”
‘We arrived almost bang on time and left our flight feeling fresh… and US$600 better off..’ “If you’re flying low-cost, get yourself into the state of mind so that you can enjoy it. Reckon on the basis it’s not going to be first or business class, you’re not going to have a flat bed. There’s not going to be champagne, unless you buy it. “If you look at JetStar or Norwegian or Scoot, all of whom are running 787 Dreamliners with brand-new leather seats and seat-back videos, it’s as good as anything you’re going to get in economy on a legacy carrier - if not better. “I think that once we’ve got rid of the snobbery around low-cost carriers, then I think you start to understand that it’s just as good to go on a low-cost carrier if it’s a short flight.” As I tuck into my pre-ordered (but available at the Scoot Café) salad, Hainanese chicken rice and Hagen Daas dessert, I have to agree. I’m watching a movie on my MacBook Air and settling back for coffee ($4). I could easily be planning what I could be doing with the US$600 I have saved.
Snoozing with Scoot Bears
Business-class seats Down the back in a bright and respectable economy class (on sale for US$114.74), Wi-Fi needs to be purchased for US$11.95 an hour or 24 hours for US$21.95. And for the mainly young crowd, there is plenty of sales and plenty of online action. The entertainment system is loaded with nine Hollywood movies, 10 international films, six TV comedies, six dramas and four kids’ shows. The “Scootilicious” menu in the Scoot Cafe includes favourites nasi lemak, vegetarian pomodoro fusilli, summer salad and a chicken and ham croissant for US$12 with a coca cola. Or, of course, that staple, cup noodles at US$5. My princely chicken and ice-cream meal costs US$21.99, and I wash it down with a glass of Wolf Blass chardonnay for US$9. We arrived almost bang on time and left our flight feeling fresh… and US$600 better off. We’d certainly take off with Scoot again.
Chicken rice
THE VERDICT Seats: My leather business-class seat had more than enough room, though things got a little tight when the seat in front reclined all the way back. Meals: My chicken rice contained plenty of breast, vegetables and chilli sauce; the salad starter was crisp and refreshing. Amenities: You can purchase a Scoot Snooze Kit – woven fleece blanket, eye mask and inflatable neck pillow for US$13.30 pre-ordered or US$17 on board. Just don’t expect lotions and balms in the toilets. Cabin Crew: Our Scootees were attentive, smiling and got the job done. They were happy to explain how things worked. Overall: It was a smooth, comfortable flight – my Scootbiz seat was way more comfortable than economy on a legacy airline. Okay, so the movies weren’t the latest and my screen was my own. But the flight was Scootiful none the less.
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CRUISE PLUS: ONBOARD SHOPPING
Floating
boutiques
Words Teresa Ooi
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board every large cruise ship is a glitzy piazza or shopping gallery featuring marbled walkways and modern boutiques. Thought you’d escaped those designer brands? Think again. Stand by to shop until you drop in the middle of the sea. Watches, perfume, handbags and jewels are all available duty free at these ocean emporiums. Surprisingly, it’s men who spend up big, according to a survey by Princess Cruises. One in four males said they spent more than US$385 buying clothes, shoes and electronics. Not only are men bigger spenders than women, they are also more likely to buy something for their spouse while cruising. The majority of women said they shopped for themselves and only seven per cent said they bought something for their husband. 90
Even in the middle of the ocean, you can give your credit card a workout thanks to an array of duty-free luxury boutiques on board cruise ships.
The Princess Cruises Holiday Shopping Study surveyed 1,000 people and found that 60 per cent indulged in retail therapy at least three times a trip with a further 15 per cent shopping every day. Commenting on the survey, Princess Cruises public relations manager, Melissa Circosta said: “It’s interesting to see how being on holiday can alter people’s behaviour, with something like shopping together as a couple – often a no-go zone back home – becoming much more appealing during the relaxed confines of a cruise holiday.” Since Diamond Princess upgraded its shopping gallery with a watch boutique anchored by Omega, a fragrance shop and a luxury accessories store selling designer labels, sales of items such as Coach and Ralph
Lauren handbags have been very popular, the line said. Prices on cruise lines such as Princess Cruises, P&O and Seabourn are comparable to those of onshore duty-free stores. The biggest selling items onboard P&O ships are Pandora, chocolate, fragrance, Billabong products, P&O logo items and fashion accessories. P&O and Princess have special offers on a daily basis with additional discounts. On the luxury line Seabourn, guests tend to look for value items and will purchase a memento of their cruise rather than snap up a bargain. Some passengers purchase fine jewels, quality watches, premium alcohol or designer clothing, according to a spokesperson for the line. Royal Caribbean Cruises,
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CRUISE PLUS: ONBOARD SHOPPING
‘It is natural that people will want to treat themselves.’ which includes Celebrity Cruises, Azamara Club Cruises and Royal Caribbean International, agrees that cruisers “love a good bout of duty-free shopping onboard”. “When people go on cruise holidays they are a reward for all the hard work done during the year,” said a Royal Caribbean spokesperson. “It is natural that people will also want to treat themselves by buying themselves or loved ones something nice. “This is one of the main reasons why shopping during a cruise is so popular. They buy make-up, perfume, jewellery, fine liqueurs, accessories and souvenirs.” Royal Caribbean scours the world to offer guests a variety of items and to make the shopping ambience as enjoyable as possible. On the line’s Voyager class of ships, the main shopping strip, the Promenade, is a buzzing place with shops, cafes and pubs. To entice passengers to spend more, there are daily specials, especially on sea days. Celebrity Cruises has onboard boutiques such as Bvlgari, Breitling, Omega and
Michael Kors, as well as an extensive range of designer labels available, including TAG Heuer, Armani, Calvin Klein, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Kate Spade, Cole Haan and Barbara Rihl fine leather goods. On Azamara Club Cruises, there are four onboard boutiques selling a collection of designer jewellery and watches including Le Boutique, which offers personalised shopping for high-end jewellery with oneto-one assistance from the sales staff. MSC Cruises has a shopping piazza
with shops selling luxury brand watches, cosmetics, 600 fragrances, alcohol, cigarettes and handbags at duty-free prices comparable to those found in tax-free shops on shore. The boutiques specialise in high-end designer clothes and handcrafted Antica Murrina glass jewellery. On sea days, special shopping days are held with market stalls on the pool deck selling various goods from MSC-branded sun visors to Polo Ralph Lauren t-shirts, all with an additional discount thrown in. Of course onboard shops make money for the cruise line, but that doesn’t mean you won’t find some bargains. The rule of thumb is that liquor, make-up, designer sunglasses and jewellery are sold on American cruise lines without sales tax and are duty free. With these tax reductions, prices are generally much cheaper. However, before you go too crazy, do some research on prices of jewellery, designer watches and perfume sold at duty-free shops on shore. You should also familiarise yourself with the customs and excise regulations of the country where you will disembark your ship, and double check airline rules and allowances for carrying liquor. There’s no point in bagging a bargain only to find you can’t carry it home.
Clockwise from top left: marble walkways lead to boutiques and jewellery stores on Celebrity Solstice; Limelight boutique on Diamond Princess; shopping in Royal Caribbean’s Centrum
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PORT REPORT
Port Report Cruise&Travel Asia takes a look at some of Asia’s favourite ports, with tips on what to see and do, and the cruise lines that will take you there.
SINGAPORE
MARINA BAY SANDS
■ When the tiny city state decides to do something, it does it
well. Singapore has been at the forefront of cruise infrastructure development, building not one but two cruise terminals: the Singapore Cruise Centre and Marina Bay Cruise Centre. This means it can accommodate four cruise ships at a time. The terminals are both close to the city centre, so you will have more time to explore attractions such as the fabulous shopping haven at Marina Bay Sands and the cutting-edge local designer chic at Haji Lane. Book ahead for the Night Safari, an unforgettable nocturnal zoo. Singapore is a melting pot of cultures including Chinese, Malay, Indian and European, which is reflected in the myriad dishes found in teeming hawker centres. The heady mixture of humid temperatures and spicy, fried char kway teow is just so Singaporean “lah”. Who goes there? Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises, P&O Cruises, Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Seabourn, Silversea.
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PORT PORTREPORT REPORT OSAKA CASTLE
OSAKA ■ Japan’s third city is often overlooked
in favour of the bright lights of Tokyo or the ancient grace of Kyoto. But Osaka has plenty to offer in its own right. The people are notoriously friendly and the city has an unending supply of charming streets and lively neighbourhoods just begging to be explored. The city is affectionately known as Japan’s Kitchen and its signature dish is okonomiyaki, a cross between an omelette and a pancake filled with meat, seafood or noodles. Osaka is also the place to try tessa, sashimi made (very carefully) from the poisonous fugu (puffer fish) – trained chefs should leave in just enough poison to numb the lips. The city is the birthplace of bunraku, a traditional form of puppet theatre with eerily lifelike dolls that dates back to the 17th century. Take in a show at the National Bunraku Theatre. Who goes there? Celebrity Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Holland America Line, Oceania Cruises, Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Seabourn.
SEOUL
STREET ART
■ Where else in the world can you find
an entire museum dedicated to the depiction of chickens in art? The South Korean capital has a quirky style that is all its own and encompasses fashion, art, music and design, making Seoul the current global centre of cool. Itaewon and Hongdae are multicultural suburbs where French wine bars rub shoulders with New York steakhouses, all with a distinctly Korean twist. For a taste of traditional South Korea, visit Bukchon Hanok Village, a cluster of private wooden homes (hanok) that are centuries old. Shopping in Seoul is incredible, especially if you like electronic gadgets or cosmetics (there’s a reason there are so many Korean beauty bloggers). Visit one of the huge department stores to see how the locals do it. Who goes there? Celebrity Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Holland America Line, Oceania Cruises, Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Seabourn.
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PORT REPORT WAT ARUN, CHAO PHRAYA RIVER
BANGKOK ■ Thailand’s City of Angels is the second most visited city in the world (just behind London) with more than 18 million visitors each year. It’s easy to see why. Bangkok is a frenetic mix of ancient temples, bustling markets, glittering high-rises, magnificent palaces and sizzling street stalls, all set to an endless cacophony of jackhammers and car horns (the traffic is legendary). Running through the middle of the city, Chao Phraya is Bangkok’s river highway and is lined with open-air bars and restaurants. Off the main waterway, a vast network of quiet canals runs through sleepy local neighbourhoods where you can see a slice of everyday life. Who goes there? Celebrity Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises, P&O Cruises, P&O World Cruises, Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Seabourn, Silversea.
HONG KONG
RESTAURANT IN KOWLOON
■ Some of the best wonton noodles can
be found at Mak’s Noodle in Wellington Street, Central. Served in tiny bowls with piping hot broth, four wontons and al dente egg noodles, they are so delicious, one bowl is never enough. This hole-inthe-wall restaurant is what eating is all about in the former British colony. You don’t have to be rich to eat well in Hong Kong, you just need to know where the locals dine. For shopping, the best times are after Christmas and during the July sales when designer clothes, handbags and shoes are marked down by as much as 70 per cent. Almost all the best labels are housed in the Landmark mall in Central. You’ll find less expensive high-street brands on side streets and shopping malls in Causeway Bay. For dried scallops, duck liver sausages or XO sauce, head to Wanchai Market, which stays open until late. Who goes there? Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Holland America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, Oceania Cruises, Ponant, Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Seabourn, Silversea.
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PORT REPORT CITY HALL
HO CHI MINH CITY Ho Chi Minh (formerly Saigon) is an energetic city populated by eight million people driving an estimated 58 million motorbikes. This is the place to visit on a river ship or small ocean vessel, which can sail up the river to dock close to the city centre. The energy is infectious, the food tasty – from street stalls to restaurants dishing out banh xeo (rice pancake filled with prawns). The city is known for its French colonial architecture; visit NotreDame basilica, Saigon Central Post Office, City Hall and teeming Ben Thanh Market. Finish the day with a cocktail at the Hotel Majestic’s Breeze Sky Bar overlooking the river, or the hip rooftop Glow Skybar. Who goes there? Aqua Expeditions, Aida Cruises, AmaWaterways, Avalon Waterways, Azamara Club Cruises, Celebrity Cruises, Costa Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Cunard, Holland America Line, MSC Cruises, Oceania Cruises, Princess Cruises, Ponant, Regent Seven Seas Cruises, Royal Caribbean, Seabourn, Silversea, Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection, Viking River Cruises, Windstar Cruises.
■
BEIJING
THE FORBIDDEN CITY
■ China is set to become the new centre of Asian cruising with a record number of lines choosing to homeport their latest and greatest vessels there. Beijing, just 30 minutes by fast train from the port at Tianjin, can be a difficult city to love. It’s famously smoggy and loud, but it is home to some of China’s greatest treasures: the Forbidden City and its vast gardens, the Summer Palace, the Temple of Heaven and Tiananmen Square. The Great Wall is also within easy reach for a day trip. The heart of Old Beijing is threaded with hutongs, narrow lanes lined with traditional courtyard homes, that provide a quiet respite from the chaos outside. The city is best seen from two wheels, so jump on a bike from one of the many public racks around town (the first hour is free) and zip along the flat streets in the dedicated cycle lanes. Just watch out for traffic. Who goes there? Celebrity Cruises, Crystal Cruises, Holland America Line, Oceania Cruises, Princess Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, Royal Caribbean, Seabourn, Silversea.
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LAST WORD
Best
foot forward
As more single women discover cruise, dance hosts are making a comeback, with some professional assistance. Teresa Ooi meets the couple taking the lead on the dance floor aboard Crystal Symphony.
T
hey met when she was an impressionable dance student from a small Australian town and he was an experienced teacher. Paul Zaidman had a formidable reputation and a resume that included teaching pop star Kylie Minogue how to salsa and showing her sister Dannii how to move her body to launch a new single. “Kylie was dressed in her trackies and was most gracious and very quick to pick up the steps,’’ Paul says. When Anna Selleck signed-up for Paul’s dance lessons, his first thought was, “Wow, what a gorgeous dancer”. Anna, on the other hand, thought Paul could not possibly be straight. She was wrong. Today the student-teacher relationship has blossomed into love as they whirl their way round the world as Crystal Symphony’s resident dance performers and teachers. While Paul and Anna are professionals, the job of dance host has an interesting history. Many lines once employed them to look after a growing number of single female passengers. According to the website cruiseshipjob. com, which advertises jobs on cruise liners, there is now a resurgence of dance hosts. The hosts are almost always men and, to quote the website: “Good manners are required and hosts must adhere to very strict moral codes.” The site goes on: “Many hosts that currently sail aboard cruise ships have
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backgrounds as professionals in the areas of law, business, travel, finance, medicine, military and education. “Dance hosts are required to be single, divorced or widowed. Many hosts are retired or semi-retired and they have the opportunity to sail on several cruises a year. “Dance hosts must be
‘Good manners are required and hosts must adhere to very strict moral codes.’ capable of doing all the ballroom and Latin dances – foxtrot, swing, waltz, rumba and cha-cha. Being able to dance other type of dances is a plus. “It is very important to know that this is not a paid position aboard a cruise ship. Gentlemen dance hosts exchange their services for free cruises, room and board.” This is the first overseas cruise assignment for Anna. Paul on the other hand worked on Cunard’s Queen Elizabeth 2 more than 10 years ago. On Crystal, the duo are in charge of the four ambassador hosts – gentlemen dancers of a certain vintage whose job is simply to
dance with women guests. Many of the women are widowers who still want to dance while on a cruise holiday. Crystal offer this service on its two luxury ocean liners Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony. While dance keeps them fit, Anna admits she has eaten her way through more caviar and lobster than she would like to admit. Paul keeps his muscles toned at the ship’s gym. He also has a black belt in taekwondo. On sea days, the pair conducts free dance classes that attract passengers keen to try out their rusty cha-cha steps or the more sexy salsa. As Paul says, it’s all about going with the flow. He harbours ambitions to compete again at the Blackpool Dance Festival where, in 2014, he and his then-partner took out fourth place in the Senior Latin, which includes cha-cha, samba, rumba and jive. For the time being, he is happy performing and teaching passengers aboard the Crystal Symphony.
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Cruise&Travel ASIA
Cruise&Travel Asia can be found in select clubs, hotels, airport lounges and cafes throughout Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand and the Philippines. For a full list of stockists, visit our website cruiseandtravelasia.com/stockists SINGAPORE CLUBS The American Club The British Club The China Club Hollandse Club One°15 Marina Club Raffles Country Club Raffles Town Club Singapore Cricket Club Singapore Polo Club The Tanglin Club HOTELS Capella Singapore Fairmont Singapore Four Seasons Hotel Singapore The Fullerton Bay Hotel Mandarin Oriental, Singapore Marina Bay Sands The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore Sofitel So Singapore The St. Regis Singapore W Singapore Sentosa Cove AIRPORT LOUNGES Air China Air France Air India Ambassador Transit Lounge Cathay Pacific Emirates Jet Quay Private Jet Terminal Korean Air Malaysia Airlines Singapore Airlines Thai Airways CAFES Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Coffee Club TCC
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MALAYSIA CLUBS Bankers Club Kuala Lumpur Kuala Lumpur Golf & Country Club Penang Club Royal Ipoh Club Royal Lake Club Kuala Lumpur Royal Selangor Club Royal Selangor Yacht Club HOTELS Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur InterContinental Kuala Lumpur JW Marriott Hotel Kuala Lumpur Le Méridien Kuala Lumpur The Majestic Hotel Kuala Lumpur Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur The Ritz-Carlton Kuala Lumpur The Royale Chulan Kuala Lumpur Shangri-La Hotel, Kuala Lumpur The Westin Kuala Lumpur AIRPORT LOUNGES Cathay Pacific Dynasty Lounge Emirates Oman Airways Malaysian Airlines Plaza Premium Lounges SilverKris Lounge Thai Airways
THAILAND CLUBS British Club Bangkok The Capitol Club Club Perdomo Bangkok Pacific City Club The Royal Bangkok Sports Club
HOTELS Banyan Tree Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Dusit Thani Bangkok JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok Le Méridien Bangkok Hotel Lebua at State Tower Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok Metropolitan by COMO, Bangkok Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit The Peninsula Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok AIRPORT LOUNGES Bangkok Airways Cathay Pacific China Airlines DrukAir Eva Air Gulf Air Korean Air Louis Tavern CIP Lounge Singapore Airlines Thai Airways
PHILIPPINES HOTELS Crowne Plaza Manila Galleria Diamond Hotel Philippines Dusit Thani Manila Edsa Shangri-La, Manila InterContinental Manila Makati Shangri-La Manila Pan Pacific Manila Resorts World Manila Solaire Resort & Casino The Peninsula Manila AIRPORT LOUNGES Cathay Pacific Delta Air Lines Japan Airlines
Korean Air Qantas Miascor Lounge PAGSS Lounge Singapore Airlines Thai Airways
INDONESIA CLUBS The American Club Jakarta Jagorawi Golf & Country Club HOTELS Crowne Plaza Hotel Hotel Indonesia Kempinski Jakarta Hotel Mulia Senayan Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta The Ritz-Carlton, Jakarta Anantara Bali Canggu Club Bali The Legian Bali The Oberoi, Bali Potato Head Beach Club W Retreat & Spa Bali - Seminyak The Westin Resort Nusa Dua Bali HUNDREDS MORE CRUISE VACATION IDEAS AT CRUISEANDTRAVELASIA.COM
Cruise Travel ASIA
ISSUE 01 SUMMER 2016
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