brought to you by the River Cruise Collective
River Cruising
Cruising the Saone with AmaWaterways • Tauck on the Danube • Australia’s favourite rivers
Love affair
Why we all want to sail on inland waterways
Explore the cities, castles and cathedrals of Central Europe when you cruise on the Rhine, Main and Upper Danube Rivers.
Explore the cities, castles and cathedrals of Central Europe when you cruise on the Rhine, Main and Upper Danube Rivers.
Tour the charming towns and cities of Germany and Austria on guided walks
• Tour the charming towns and cities of Germany and Austria on guided walks
• Pedal and paddle your days away with included Active Excursions
Pedal and paddle your days away with included Active Excursions
Delve into the history of the nations connected by the Danube River
• Delve into the history of the nations connected by the Danube River
yourself in French and German culture on this fabulous Europe river cruise along the Rhine, Saône, and Rhône Rivers.
yourself in French and German culture on this fabulous Europe river cruise along the Rhine, Saône, and Rhône Rivers.
• Marvel at clifftop castles as you sail through the Rhine Gorge
• Enjoy a tasty treat, or three, on a Culinary Walk through Lyon
Enjoy a tasty treat, or three, on a Culinary Walk through Lyon
Learn to paint like van Gogh amidst the landscapes that inspired him
• Learn to paint like van Gogh amidst the landscapes that inspired him
Fewer
Peter Lynch, editor-in-chief and publisher
Stress-free Cruising past Durnstein on the Danube.
MYTH BUSTERS
As part of a campaign to persuade Australians to consider river cruising, we carried out a survey of almost 3000 people to find out what they thought about holidays on inland waterways.
The results – you can read them in the following pages –were profound. For a start, almost nine in 10 Australians said they would consider river cruising. That’s an amazing number, considering the longstanding perception that this form of travel was only for an older demographic.
Perhaps more interesting were the reasons why those nine in 10 Australians weren’t booking a river cruise. An astonishing 55 per cent think it’s too expensive. And 22 per cent felt they didn’t know enough about it.
When cruisepassenger.com.au investigated how river cruising compared to a drive holiday on the popular Amsterdam-to-Budapest route, we made a discovery that surprised even us (and we’re big river cruising fans here at Cruise & Travel). The saving for a couple was as much as $13,000. So that’s another myth busted.
But it wasn’t just the money. There were all the problems we can all sympathise when it came to driving this route:
- The wasted time when you could be relaxing and enjoying the view
- Finding breakfast, lunch and dinner
- Parking the car
- Checking in and out of hotels
- Dragging your luggage around and packing 15 times
- The stress of taking Europe’s autobahns
- Yes, and mental stress.
What you told us about how stress-free you found river cruising – “so easy and convenient”, “relaxing”, “everything taken care of” – is a valuable lesson about what many travellers want. Who wants to go on holiday to stress?
Thanks to all who took part. You can be sure your time was well spent. Your views have been shared with the industry at a major conference – and they received a standing ovation. And we look forward to seeing you on a river somewhere in the world very soon. RC
On the rise
Australians are showing interest in cruising the Douro, Portugal (right); and the Mekong, Vietnam.
GREAT RIVER REVEAL
New research has shown that a huge number of Australians are interested in river cruise – but they just don’t have the information, writes Daisy Melwani.
An amazingly high number of Australians are looking to try river cruising, according to research by the River Cruise Collective. As one of the most dynamic and fastest-growing cruising sectors, it is estimated river cruising will be worth $10 billion globally by 2030. With a virtually non-existent local river industry, interest in overseas river experiences has never been greater, according to Cruise Lines International Association managing director Joel Katz.
The research, produced by MyTravelResearch and presented at the industry event Cruise360, reveals the pool of potential Australian river cruisers includes a once-in-a-lifetime surge of age 55-plus retirees with healthy savings who are keen to enjoy a river cruise in the next two years.
“River cruising has huge potential in Australia, with more than four out of five Australians open to the concept,” says MyTravelResearch project lead Carolyn Childs.
/ WHAT THE RESEARCH REVEALS
Sampling 3000 Australians, the research findings show that 31 per cent of Australians would love to river cruise, while 22 per cent of those intending to take a river cruise are new river cruisers.
“The potential for growth among new river cruisers means 70,000 new clients, or 466 ships full. That’s an armada of new clients,” says Peter Lynch, managing director of Cruise Passenger.
The exclusive research also revealed three types of traveller who are prime targets for river cruising. The largest growth area was among the
42 per cent keen to explore and immerse themselves in local cultures, followed by the 36 per cent who wanted to be indulgent and relaxed. About 23 per cent were after social and unique experiences.
/ WHAT ARE THE BARRIERS?
However, the research also found that the barriers to river cruising were the perceived high costs, with 55 per cent citing that as a main objection, followed by 22 per cent of Australians who said they don’t know enough about river cruising.
“River cruising actually has an enormous story to tell on value. The River Cruise Collective placed advertising in the national press to counter this objection and we got a strong response,” says Lynch.
The advertisement compared an Amsterdamto-Budapest river cruise to a self-drive holiday following the same route, including meals and experiences, and found river cruising would garner a saving of almost $13,000.
Meanwhile, great value only snuck in at number nine of the top 10 reasons Australians chose a river holiday.
/ TOP REASONS AUSSIES LOVE RIVER CRUISING
Unsurprisingly, 88 per cent of Australians who have experienced river cruising cited the fact they only have to unpack once as their number-one reason for choosing a river holiday. Seventy-nine per cent said they enjoyed travelling in style and comfort, while 71 per cent said that river cruising enables them to be in the
“THE RESEARCH SHOWED CHOOSING THE RIGHT CRUISE LINE WAS CRITICAL FOR AUSTRALIAN TRAVELLERS.”
centre of the city at the start of each day.
“The research showed choosing the right cruise line was critical for Australian travellers, with branding being very important. So if you’re a new entrant, building a trusted brand is crucial and today we have more new entrants than ever,” says Lynch.
Ninety-one per cent of respondents cited the reputation of the company as crucial, closely followed by the 89 per cent who focussed on price.
/ WHERE ARE AUSSIES SAILING?
The traditionally popular Rhine, Mosel and Main rivers are where about 60 per cent of Australians are currently cruising, closely followed by the approximately 40 per cent taking to the Danube. Asia’s Mekong and even Australia’s own Murray River are spiking interest, with the Nile also making a comeback. Europe is expected to continue to lead for all segments of travellers in future, and the Douro River particularly appeals to exploration-andimmersion travellers. The Seine was notably popular with those Australians seeking to relax and indulge. RC
MORE for AMA
• AmaWaterways will have two brand new ships sailing in 2026, AmaSofia will explore the Rhine and Danube Rivers in Europe and AmaKaia will sail on the Mekong River. AmaSofia, AmaWaterway’s 24th ship to sail in Europe, will have 31 departures throughout 2026, including the very popular Christmas Markets on the Danube itinerary. AmaKaia, the second ship for the line on the Mekong, has 22 sailings scheduled for 2026 and 38 for 2027.
/ Swish Tauck
To celebrate 100 years in the industry, Tauck has launched four new land journeys, which can be paired with its river-cruise voyages. These include A Week in Piedmont, where guests can go tru e hunting and take part in chef-hosted cooking classes; a Week in Switzerland with a Golden Pass Train Journey through the Swiss Alps; England and the West Country, where guests can visit the Morgan Sports Car factory; and Paris, Dordogne & Bordeaux, with a private tour and tasting at the historic Chateau de Ferrand.
On the nose
Creed Centaurus and Delphinus 100ml perfume, $579 ea.
Fifty NIGHTS
• Uniworld has announced a massive 50-night Rivers of the World journey to celebrate the line’s 50th birthday in 2026. The cruise kicks off in Brussels, where guests will be among the first to sail to Amsterdam on the brand-new Super Ship, S.S. Emilie. Next, the group will join a Mystery Cruise, on a surprise vessel that will sail a one-of-a-kind itinerary to secret destinations. After the Mystery Cruise, guests will board the S.S. Joie de Vivre in Paris for a quintessentially French river cruise along the Seine. There, the trip continues on the S.S. Catherine, where travellers will sail to Avignon and travel to the beautiful Mediterranean fishing port of Cassis. Guests will then fly to Cairo for the final leg of the journey, before heading to Luxor to sail the Nile on board the S.S. Sphinx
Cruise the Nile in Style with Uniworld UNCOVER THE HEART OF EGYPT
Uniworld is a world-renowned river cruise line with decades of expertise in crafting the best itineraries on the rivers of the world. No details are overlooked on creating this cruise tour to thoroughly introduce you to the sights, customs & flavours of Egypt.
You’ll stay at the finest hotel in Cairo and aboard the best ships on the Nile. From our Egyptologist-led local experiences to the delicious cuisine served onboard, the high degree and quality of our inclusions is unmatched.
The stars of our trip, our 100% Egyptian crew and certified Egyptologist guides will give you a fun and insightful feel for Egypt’s past and present. They bring personalised service at every opportunity, with thoughtful touches to make every guest feel special.
From locally inspired ship designs featuring Egyptian craftsmanship to exquisite cuisine with Egyptian flair, every moment is a celebration of Egypt’s rich heritage. Enjoy nightly Nile-themed cocktails, local entertainment and a spirited Galabeya party.
RIVER of DREAMS
With spacious suites, carefully curated adventures and superflexible dining, a cruise on an Avalon Waterways Suite ShipSM is all you’ve ever dreamed of and more.
From the moment you board an Avalon Waterways Suite ShipSM you get the best views, experiences and tastes on the rivers of Europe and South East Asia. Our ships are specially designed to sail with ease under centuries-old bridges and right up to charming European villages. With an average of just 150 guests on board, you’ll enjoy dock-to-discovery in mere minutes.
/ Life is suite
Fewer guests also means we can offer bigger suites and staterooms. At 18.6 square metres, our Panorama SuitesSM are 30 per cent larger and 100 per cent dreamier than the average industry stateroom. Their boutique-hotel-inspired design features decadent Comfort Collection beds that face the ever-changing scenery and river
cruising’s only open-air balconies. These floor-to-ceiling windows open 2.1 metres wide in Europe and 3.3 metres wide in South East Asia – wider than any other balconies on the water.
/ Hiking, biking and more
No two travellers are alike, which is why we have curated an exciting menu of included daily excursions. Not just simple sightseeing, but enriching experiences. Whether you like to paddle a kayak or paint a canvas, each day on an Avalon river cruise is an adventure of the mind, heart, or heart rate if you prefer. And if you can’t decide, our Adventure HostSM is here to help.
From city walks with expert Local Guides to wine tastings in centuries-old vineyards and hiking to clifftop castles, there’s something for everyone. For those who want to delve deeper or pedal further, our Active & Discovery cruises give you even more options to hike, bike, taste, trek, sip and sauté your way through Europe.
The Avalon experience Clockwise, from above: Great views from a Panorama Suite; dining alongside new friends; Active & Discovery in Lyon.
/ Flexibility and flow
Our chefs blend local delicacies with contemporary classics to make every meal memorable. Avalon FlexDining® ditches the restrictive seating times in favour of freedom of choice. You could have a breezy al fresco lunch at the Sky Grill, an elegant four-course dinner in the Panorama Dining Room, or a casual meal in the Panorama Bistro. For a relaxed start to the day, consider a complimentary continental breakfast served in your room. Whichever table setting you choose; you’ll savour local flavours as well as the familiar favourites you love.
Lunches and dinners are accompanied by a robust selection of regional wines and beers, and you can relax after a day of exploring with a complimentary happy hour in the Panorama Lounge. Non-alcoholic options are available in the Club Lounge, from creamy cappuccinos to vitamin-packed smoothies.
Throughout your holiday, our crew will make you feel at home. From the Captain and Cruise Director to your stateroom attendant and wait staff, we deliver service that’s professional, approachable and informative. Our approach is never stuffy but creates an atmosphere of relaxed luxury – like our casual and comfortable dress code that’s defined only by your individual preference. After all, your comfort is our top priority. Whether you’re on board or on shore, we take special care to ensure that you are perfectly taken care of every step of the way.
This is Avalon Waterways. This is cruising elevated. CT For more information, visit avalonwaterways. com.au or call 1300 230 234.
AVALON WATERWAYS
RIVER CRUISES
Take the LONG ROUTE
The relaxed cadence of a longer itinerary is in high demand for guests of AmaWaterways, the all-inclusive river cruise line anchored by a lust for adventure and a restorative wellness program, writes Chris Singh.
For 22 years, spirited travellers have enjoyed specially curated itineraries from AmaWaterways, for a deeper immersion into the world’s most magical destinations from Europe and Asia to Africa and South America, propped up by onboard opportunities including daily fitness classes and world-class dining. Ahead of 2025, the company has introduced several brand-new itineraries ranging between 7 and 14 nights to give guests the chance to explore enchanting stops with a variety of bike tours, hikes and plenty of time to recharge on state-ofthe-art vessels such as the elegant AmaLyra. New European o erings include the 14-night Grand Rhine and Dutch Canals itinerary, stretching from Amsterdam to Basel with a
smorgasbord of Europe’s most distinctive delights. You will bite into rich Belgian chocolates, polish your knowledge of musical machines at Utrecht’s Museum Speelklok, absorb the drama of Brussels’ Gaasbeek Castle and experience the timeless beauty of the Rhine’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed riverbank, where 40 castles are strung together like ageless pearls. All this and so much more awaits you as you take in the best of Holland, Belgium and the Rhine River.
If you want to zoom in on the illustrious history of France, take a look at the 14-night Grand Seine & Rhone itinerary from your spacious stateroom and watch from your balcony as AmaLyra explores
Europe calling Clockwise, from above: Sightseeing in Budapest; enjoying AmaSonata’s sun deck; bike tours in Vienna; exploring wineries in Durnstein.
three of the country’s most iconic rivers – the Seine, Saône and Rhône.
Witness a moving ceremony on the Landing Beaches of Normandy, discover the medieval treasures of Rouen and sip wines across Burgundy and the legendary Côtes du Rhône. And after all that, feast on the delights of Lyon; uncover the greatness of Viviers with a scenic hike; and wrap up with a deep dive into art history in the inspiring city of Arles.
Gourmands will relish in the 14-night Grand Seine and Bordeaux journey along four of the world’s most beautiful waterways, exploring the Seine, Garonne and Dordogne rivers as well as the Gironde Estuary.
From Paris to the historic wineries of Bordeaux, you’ll take in the history of Normandy, step inside Monet’s paintings at his home in Giverny, pedal through the otherworldly French countryside and visit the impressive Roquetaillade Castle in Bordeaux. Enjoy all of this and more while you sink into your own sanctuary, wine in hand of course.
AmaWaterways’ specially curated 14-night grand river cruises enable guests to make the most of their time in Europe, while also fully experiencing all the wonderful amenities available on board, from multiple dining options and complimentary fitness classes to soothing massage services and time on the sun deck to soak up incredible scenery. CT
For more information see amawaterways.au or call 1800 867 126.
AMAWATERWAYS
Pure GENIUS
• Abercrombie & Kent has unveiled the name of its first Amazon riverboat
– Pure Amazon. The 12-suite river ship will debut in 2025, sailing three- and four-night itineraries. Guests will also have the option to combine the two into a seven-night itinerary. Pure Amazon will have 10 suites and two solo cabins, and the furniture will be locally sourced. On board, guests will find indoor and outdoor lounges, a dining room, a gym, a massage room and a sundeck swimming pool. A skiff will be available for excursions on the river. The riverboat will feature in A&K’s Small Group Journeys and Tailor Made itineraries.
/ Slow luxury
Australians are set to be targeted by a new river line, Riverside Cruises, which offers ultra-luxury journeys on Europe’s rivers in what it calls “slow luxury”. Riverside Debussy sails the Rhine, Riverside Mozart is on the Danube and the third member of the fleet is Riverside Revel, which sails the Rhône and Saone. The line has formed a preferred partnership with online travel company Luxury Escapes. For an idea of prices, a seven-day Danube River cruise Vienna to Vienna costs $4999 per person on Luxury Escapes.
DOWN the DOURO
APT’s new MS Estrela, custom built for the Australian market, will cruise Portugal’s Douro River under both APT and Travelmarvel itineraries. The ship has 60 cabins – Window Staterooms, French Balcony Suites and Owner Suites – and can carry 114 passengers. The Sun Deck offers 360-degree views and there’s a large swimming pool. Onboard entertainment includes Portuguese folk music and an informative history lesson.
2025 & 2026 European Summer Triple Savings
Dreaming of that summer European holiday? Reserve select river cruises departing in July and August 2025 and 2026 to receive incredible savings, upgrades and more.
14-NIGHT CRUISES
Save up to $6,000 per stateroom
+ Complimentary Stateroom Upgrade
+ US$100 Onboard Credit per stateroom
7, 10, & 11-NIGHT CRUISES
Save up to $3,000 per stateroom
+ Complimentary Stateroom Upgrade
+ US$50 Onboard Credit per stateroom
Offer expires December 31, 2024
Contact
Exquisite locally-inspired cuisine and fine wine in multiple dining venues
A variety of excursions, including guided hikes, bike tours and wine tastings
Wellness Program with an array of exercise classes
Daily Sip & Sail cocktail hour with complimentary cocktails, wine, beer and soft drinks
The services of one of our extraordinary Cruise Managers throughout your journey
/ Cruise like an Egyptian
V
iking has announced the float out of the 82-guest Viking Sobek, which will join the company’s fleet of ships for the Nile River and sail the 12-day Pharaohs & Pyramids itinerary. Viking Sobek is a sister ship to Viking Osiris, Viking Aton and the new Viking Hathor, which is scheduled to debut this summer. The Pharaohs & Pyramids itinerary begins with a three-night stay at a hotel in Cairo, where
guests can visit the Great Pyramid of Giza, the necropolis of Sakkara, the Mosque of Muhammad Ali and the Grand Egyptian Museum. Passengers then fly to Luxor, where they visit the Temples of Luxor and Karnak before boarding a Viking river ship for an eight-day round-trip cruise on the Nile, including visits to the tomb of Nefertari in the Valley of the Queens and the tomb of Tutankhamun in the Valley of the Kings.
MUSICA viva
• Guests sailing with A-ROSA on the Danube will be treated to performances from students of the Vienna University of Music and Performing Arts, as part of the river cruise line’s new Young Artists Programme. Tapping into the musical heritage of the Danube, and Vienna’s reputation as the capital of classical music, guests will enjoy evening performances on board while the ships are docked in the city. Artists collaborating with A-ROSA include violin and piano duo Zuzanna Budzyńska and Szymon Ogryzek.
Full STEAM AHEAD
• The Australian river-cruise scene is set to be revived by a brand-new luxury $6.75 million ship. APT, in a chartering partnership with Murray River Paddlesteamers, will launch three exclusive itineraries on the PS Australian Star, the world’s only wood-fired, five-star paddlesteamer. The almost $7 million vessel features just 19 cabins with each stateroom opening onto the deck. Exclusive signature-experience highlights include lunch at The Mill in Echuca, an after-dark port tour to hear ghost stories, and a journey through St. Anne’s Winery.
UNIWORLD BOUTIQUE RIVER CRUISES
ALIFE-CHANGING EXPERIENCES
Teresa Ooi takes the journey of a lifetime on the Nile River and reveals her favourite shore excursions.
pproaching Egypt by air, you are struck by the sight of beige sand dunes. There is very little greenery or trees to break the shades of fawn until you approach the Nile River. Suddenly, green pops up almost everywhere. But the river still looks bracken. Egyptians call it “Ar” or “Aur” meaning “black” – referring to the rich dark sediment that the Nile waters carry from the Horn of Africa and deposit in Egypt as the river floods its banks each year in late summer.
Almost every aspect of life in Egypt depends on the river. It provides food, resources, land for agriculture and means of travel. And visiting Egypt and cruising the Nile with Uniworld for the first time is a life-changing experience.
Everywhere you look, you are reminded of Egypt’s history – its ancient civilisation, the towering pyramids, the Sphinx, the majestic pharaohs, the intricate hieroglyphics and the mighty statues. Every monument takes your breath away. Here are my picks of the top excursions in Egypt.
/ Abu Simbel Temples
We are talking about possibly the most aweinspiring temples of all ancient Egypt, the Abu Simbel Temples with their gargantuan rock-cut façade of King Ramesses II.
Hewn into the side of the mountain and guarding the entrance to the first temple are four colossal statues of the pharaoh himself. It is said that Ramesses carefully angled the temple so that the sun’s rays would align twice a year –on the date of his ascension to the throne
(21 February) and on his birthday (21 October) – and illuminate the inner sanctum of the temple.
But for hundreds of years, the temples of Abu Simbel were lost under the sand. Rediscovered in the early 1880s, the Great Temple of Ramesses II and the Small Temple dedicated to Queen Nefertari (Ramesses’ favourite wife) came under threat from rising waters because of the construction of the Aswan High Dam.
The salvage of the Abu Simbel temples was carried out from 1964 to 1968 by a multinational team of archaeologists and engineers under a massive UNESCO initiative. The temple complex was physically moved from the banks of Lake Nasser to higher grounds beyond the reach of the water.
/ Pyramids of Giza
The last surviving icon of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Pyramids of Giza, are one of the world’s most recognisable landmarks.
The oldest pyramid in Egypt was built 2630BC. The most celebrated monument is the enigmatic Sphinx, a granite structure with the head of a pharaoh and the body of a recumbent lion. Giza has three principal pyramids – the Great Pyramid, known as Khufu, as well as Khafre and Menkaure.
/ Karnak Temple, Luxor
More than 3700 years old, the Temple of Karnak is the second-largest ancient religious site in the world, smaller only than Cambodia’s Angkor Wat. More than 30 pharaohs contributed to Karnak’s changing landscape from Ramesses II to King Tut. One of the memorable spots at the Temple of Karnak is the Hypostyle Hall, which looks like a large courtyard filled with massive columns that seem to touch the sky.
In the evening, Karnak turns into an open-air museum and o ers a sound-and-light show in di erent languages three times a night. CT Find out more about Uniworld’s Egypt tours at uniworld.com or call 1300 780 231.
Ship to shore
Clockwise, from above: Abu Simbel; sundeck service on Uniworld’s River
Tosca; Pyramids of Giza; cruising the Nile in style.
Clos de Vougeot
A treasure amongst Burgundy’s vineyards.
A VIEW OF ONE’S
SAONE
A new AmaWaterways culinary itinerary offers a front-row seat to Burgundy’s culture and cuisine, writes Sarah Treleaven.
One drizzly May morning in central eastern France, I found myself face to face with some of the world’s most famous chickens. I was in Louhans, following a cheerful local guide named Alexandra, as she walked us through the town’s market, which runs alongside the nexus of the Seille and Solnan Rivers. It was a Monday, the “jour fixe”, or market day, and the town was humming with energy. Stalls were overflowing with richly coloured produce – from deep purple eggplants and emerald zucchinis to plump, misshapen and enticingly juicy heirloom tomatoes. Locals and visitors lingered, gossiping over café cremes, stopping to sniff fragrant strawberries (newly in season and ubiquitous) and snacking on Corniotte, a sugarstudded lightly sweet choux pastry special to the area.
I was traveling with a small group, all passengers dispatched from AmaWaterways’ 140-passenger AmaCello, which was in the process of slowly sailing down the Saône River on a new itinerary: Flavours of Burgundy. For seven nights, on board and in ports stretching from Dijon to Lyon (the latter just outside the borders of Burgundy), we sampled hearty dishes and seasonal ingredients that lend themselves to pairing with the region’s red pinot noir and white chardonnay wines. My stateroom, on the Violin Deck, was snug but comfortable and had double sliding French doors, offering the perfect vantage to observe elegant natural scenery and tiny port towns – the exact proximity that makes river cruising such a beloved slow-travel option.
Back in Louhans, Alexandra deftly steered us through the town’s “famous chicken market”, pointing out, with no small amount of pride, the butchered chickens dressed in the tricolore of the French flag. One half of the market was lined with birdrelated business, including cages full of huddled baby ducks and crowing roosters, refrigerated cases of whole chickens ready for roasting, and a knife-sharpening station that underscored this particular cycle of life. The other half was an open-air party full of farmers who would soon disappear into the town’s restaurants for a large lunch of tender frog’s legs, garlicky escargot and rich tête de veau. But for now, they mingled under a patchwork of
canopies, safe from the rain, clutching adorably small glasses of crisp white wine. Soon, I was clutching my own glass – surely it was five o’clock somewhere – and Alexandra offered me a spoonful of Bresse chicken confit, the wine’s fresh acidity the ideal pairing for the fatty, perfectly seasoned poulet.
And so it went, every day, as I woke and wandered down to the main dining room – often opting for eggs benedict and perhaps a quick visit to the ship’s omnipresent cheese selection – before heading off on an excursion. Boarding a comfortable coach just steps from the ship, we were whisked through the region’s pastoral beauty – all wild red poppies, emerald fields, herds of white sheep with the occasional donkey, and ancient limestone chateaus fronted by turquoise shutters.
In Dijon, we parked at pretty Place Darcy, with its gushing fountain, and I wandered the pedestrianised cobblestone streets. I soon found a bakery serving massive gougères, a baked good that’s crispy on the outside but airy on the inside and crammed with local Comte cheese. As I closed in on Dijon’s handsome central market, the streets became thick with stalls selling everything from pots of bright pink geraniums and unblemished leafy greens to silver wine-tasting cups used by sommeliers (a neat souvenir for more casual wine drinkers).
Along the market’s perimeter, I found a small Michelinrecommended restaurant – DZ’envies – where I indulged with a glass of petit Chablis and three-course prix fixe: parsley pork terrine, grassy and smooth, alongside moutarde douce and minced cornichon; boeuf bourguignon made with tender cheeks and thick lardons, served with mashed potatoes whipped to within an inch of their lives; and a red-fruit pana cotta with gingerbread spice, smooth and slightly tart.
Expert tips
Eat streets Clockwise, from top: Sampling calvados in Paris; Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux; French delicacies – truffles and delectable soft cheeses.
Favourite meal : A tie! Between the chicken with morels in cream sauce at Lyon’s century-old Café Comptoir Abel, and the AmaCello’s tender pork belly a la Dijonaise served with a sweet mustard sauce and tourne potatoes. Honorary mention goes to a remarkable creation from Pastry Joel Noyerie in Macon with buttery-thick cream sandwiched by two pieces of hazelnut meringue and dusted in powdered sugar.
What to pack: An overflow bag for hauling stuff back home. Central France offers a cornucopia of potential souvenirs – from beautiful bottles of wine, thick fruit jams and small tubes of authentic Dijon mustard to artisanal ceramics and vintage housewares.
Secret tip: Get in line. In France’s delightful and abundant small-town markets, don’t shrug off a long lineup for something edible; there’s often a good reason for it, and might introduce you to a local delicacy you haven’t previously tried.
Markets were the theme as the ship pulled into more thrillingly petite ports. Excursions were always an option but so was simply stepping off the ship into this new world, where either by design or good fortune there was often an open-air market winding through a town’s narrow streets. In Chalon sur Saône, I stood in line with the locals to sample hearty bread stuffed with nuts and dried apricots, and fougasse thick with plump black olives. I nibbled on a Florentine the circumference of a baseball, delighting in the thick dark chocolate base and not minding at all when the caramelised almonds and chopped dried fruits got stuck in my teeth. I sampled Vietnamese spring rolls filled with pork belly and bean sprouts, and semolina cookies filled with dates – all to the backdrop of one very enthusiastic accordion player.
One morning, I joined a group that bussed into the ancient walled town of Beaune in anticipation of yet another market day. The indoor market was thrilling – cases full of creamy chevre, jars of honey, long lines for freshly butchered meat, and even a stand offering freshly shucked oysters – but the small shops in the surrounding streets were equally appealing. At Boutique Vedrenne, I tried various types of crèmes de cassis, blackcurrant liqueur, letting each viscous sample coat my tongue before settling on a bottle to take home. At l’Atelier des bonbons, I bought spectacularly concentrated fruit jellies, in apricot and peach, each one a delightful little sugar-coated bite of jam. And at Quatre Faubourg, I perused a food lover’s key accessories, from vintage copper pots to crystal coupes, ultimately buying antique Champagne cork pullers and a dozen mismatched escargot cups in shades of brown and yellow.
No culinary sailing through Burgundy would be complete without wine tastings, and my AmaWaterways itinerary offered several options. One mild afternoon, the sun finally breaking through the clouds, I hopped on a post-lunch bus to Nuit-SaintGeorges, the landscape shifting from bright yellow canola fields to vivid green grapevines, before we pulled up to the Chateau de Pierreclos. In the cavernous stone basement of this fifthgeneration winery, I sipped a young chardonnay with hints of honey and vanilla alongside a dry pinot noir with hints of caramel and a ruby colour with the soft violet sheen typical of Burgundy’s reds.
On board, too, AmaWaterways demonstrated an impressive commitment to creating a culinary sense of place. Menus clearly identified local specialties using “LS” – local meaning Burgundian, not just French – such as coq au vin with couscous, served with two tender, slightly sweet drumsticks. I routinely spotted seasonal ingredients, in abundance at the many markets we strolled (and snacked) through, on the menu in the ship’s
French excursions Clockwise, from far left: Cider tasting in Normandy; learning about truffle farming; biking in Bordeaux.
main dining room, including black truffles simmered in cream, and massive stalks of white asparagus wrapped in Parma ham and drizzled with Hollandaise sauce – all paired with excellent French wines at lunch and dinner (and included in the fare).
One day, mid-cruise, I walked into the lounge to get a cappuccino, and the bartender, reading my interests correctly, informed me that the evening’s special dessert would be an artisanal chocolate éclair made by a local pastry chef named Marie Antoinette. My eyebrows reflexively raised, he immediately clarified: “Not that Marie Antoinette.”
One of AmaWaterways’ signature offerings on European sailings is the late afternoon “Sip & Sail”, where complimentary cocktails and local wines are served by the affable bartenders in the ship’s comfortable lounge. Most nights, I started with a lovely, balanced Burgundy crémant, letting the bubbles linger on my tongue as I eyeballed the endless supply of canapes carried by circulating waiters, including smooth liver pate atop fresh pumpernickel; camembert with strawberries; and pigs in a blanket with buttery pastry and slender sausages.
True, the sailing part was sometimes misleading – we often mostly sipped, the ship staying put. But even on those nights, the sun starting to dip, we were docked in such charmingly tiny ports that I could take my crémant onto the deck to watch locals ashore meet to sip coffee or walk their dogs. In pretty Chalon Sur Saône, the riverside port lined by trees, I saw the same woman walk the same two spaniels so many times that I was tempted to wave to her.
And before too long, the week was up, and it was sadly time to wave goodbye to everyone on board. The last night, just before my final meal in the ship’s dining room – roasted chicken, chanterelles and truffle jus with a perfectly paired red from nearby Cote de Rhone – I once again took my crémant onto the AmaCello’s deck to watch the setting sun illuminate the surrounding village in majestic golden tones. On the grassy shore, a group of about a dozen men were drinking pastis and playing petanque, casting their boules with one hand and sipping with the other. It was the perfect send-off: I was content, well fed and anticipating another refill of crémant –and all with a front-row seat to Burgundy’s culture and cuisine. RC
“IN THE CAVERNOUS STONE BASEMENT OF THIS FIFTH-GENERATION WINERY, I SIPPED A YOUNG CHARDONNAY.”
The Burgundy
Trunk show
Alémais Constance shirt, $595, and
Jean Paul Gaultier swimsuit,
Rubinacci velvet blazer,
Emilia Wickstead Nehemia maxi dress, $3998.
Dôen Ischia midi dress, $571.
Eugenia Kim Mirabel straw sunhat, $800.
Etro bowling shirt and swim trunks, $570 ea.
Balenciaga backpack, $2290.
New Balance 993 sneakers,
Loewe Paula’s Ibiza Flower sunglasses, $500.
$395. pants,
$500.
Loewe Terra Vulca suede sneakers, $1215. $385. $2740.
TIME TRAVELLER
Caroline Smith discovers the next best thing to a time machine is Tauck’s Blue Danube River Cruise, waltzing her into the past from Budapest to Prague.
“Beam me up Scotty!” This is wishful thinking, as teleportation Star Trek style has yet to be invented. Time machines have also been frustratingly slow to materialise. So, I was thrilled to discover a travel experience that delivers some of the tantalising promises of time travel without the risks of a ride in a Tardis or a modified DeLorean.
Hungry for Hungary
Fisherman’s Bastion, Budapest; window into Cesky Krumlov, Czech Republic (below).
My Tauck Blue Danube River Cruise, a gentler, up-river, winding back of time through centuries of history, renaissance art, inspired music, opulent architecture and a slew of royal dynasties, is an enchanting window on a rich and storied past. MV Joy was our aptly named, and far more civilised, time machine, catering to only 139 passengers and offering a suitesonly deck and eight loft cabins which span two decks. One of Tauck’s modern fleet of river-cruise vessels, MV Joy is well designed to provide more space per guest than its competitors and a quintessential, intimate small-ship experience.
/ CABIN FEVER
Our spacious cabin easily accommodated us and our princessin-waiting sized wardrobes. Deliciously comfortable twin beds facing the floor-to-ceiling windows were a major temptation to skip the day’s planned activities, as we lay mesmerised by the just-as-lazy passing scenery, scattered chalets, castles and impossibly charming hamlets.
If cabin fever prevailed, we escaped to the top viewing deck, supplied with even better views, fresh air, an outdoor jacuzzi, deck chairs (with rugs, if the weather was fresh), drinks on tap, and even a putting green. Yoga classes, spa visits, a salon, gym and local experts’ fascinating insights on our upcoming ports of call were all happily competing for our time on board. Despite these appealing diversions, I managed to steel myself and committed to a rather ambitious and active program of
immersive excursions from the extensive and varied list. This worked perfectly for me, but the joy of Tauck is that it offers options to suit your interests and energy levels. Successfully curating your individual itinerary is key to making the cruise your own, and creating memories that will last forever.
/ VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY
From Budapest, where we joined the Tauck cruise, our voyage took us westward to Bratislava and Vienna, the Wachau Valley to Salzburg and Regensburg to Prague. We peeled back the layers of history on escorted bike and walking tours, marvelling at famous landmarks, gilded opera houses, museums, cathedrals and oh-so-many fabulous palaces, but also wandering, discovering the unexpected, meeting locals and absorbing their culture, all linked by the surreally scenic backdrop of the Danube.
I had forgotten, or maybe never knew, how laden with cultural treasures and architectural beauty these cities are: Budapest’s medieval town centre, the ramparts of Buda Castle’s Fisherman’s Bastion overlooking the city and river, the Parliament building breathtakingly lit as we sailed past.
The expert local Tauck directors were always on hand to enrich our experiences with historical background and fascinating anecdotes, providing a welcome firehose of information to quench my increasing interest and thirst for knowledge as I explored each city.
/ FOOD, MERITORIOUS FOOD
Our cabin was toward the stern and mere steps to the 24-hour café, Arthurs, where guests can indulge cravings with self-serve savoury or sweet delicacies in the wee hours or, in my case, an essential early morning tea made in my PJs. I found it an awayfrom-home stress-relief aid too; I don’t necessarily want anything outside mealtimes but it’s comforting to know I can get it if I do. Pastries, fruit and cheeses are replenished regularly, and there’s a delicious light-meal service as an alternative to the dining room if you’re pressed for time.
The Compass Rose dining room has an understated elegance
Expert tips
Favourite meal: The chef’s degustation on board MV Joy was a culinary masterpiece, but my inner gourmand still drools at the memory and taste of an effortlessly spectacular made-to-order carbonara pasta served from a huge wheel of aged parmesan to your plate while you watch (and yes, it’s all you can eat).
What to pack: A super lightweight, nylon fabric backpack is a must for shore excursions and can double as a shoe bag in your suitcase. Check the itinerary for formal or fancy-dress events and pack an original signature item such as a (fake or real) tiara or Halloween mask.
Secret tip: Familiarise yourself with the ship’s layout and facilities prior to boarding. Know where to get tea, coffee or snacks outside mealtimes, whether the spa takes advance bookings, and where the best vantage point is for sunset drinks on deck.
Itinerary: Tauck’s 12-day west-bound The Blue Danube river cruise begins in Budapest and includes the cities of Bratislava, Vienna, Salzburg, Regensburg and more, ending with an optional two days in Prague. The season runs from April to October. Tauck has released its 2024 European River Cruising catalogue with six new cruises. See tauck.com.au.
“WE WERE TRANSPORTED BACK TO A TIME WHEN SUCH GRACIOUS AND EXTRAVAGANT DINING WAS AN ART FORM.”
What a Joy!
Clockwise, from top left: Strahov Monastery, Austria; the writer on tour; sculpture at Koller Gallery, Budapest; the Wachau Valley; Tauck riverboat.
and tasteful furnishings, with tables for two or many, to share with new-found friends. The skilled waiters soon knew our names, our favourite top-shelf cocktail from the included extensive and complimentary beverages list and our dietary preferences. The Balinese chef manning the omelette station cheerfully greeted me each morning, even after his late-night shift. The a la carte menu artfully showcases both local cuisines and international favourites, and the daily variety of fresh, buffet-style hors d’oeuvres, salads and desserts is mind- (and diet)-blowing. Cruise dining can be hit or miss, but Tauck’s offering is the perfect menu blend of fresh, creative, producedriven excellence. The chef’s degustation dinner on board more than rivals the standard of cuisine at the exclusive formal dinners ashore.
And if this standard indulgence is not enough, Tauck outdoes itself with the special culinary event dinners held in the great halls of palaces such as Vienna’s stunning neo-classical Palais Pallavicini. We were transported back to a time when such
gracious and extravagant dining was an art form, reserved for the upper echelons of society. White-gloved waiters, silver cloches raised dramatically en masse to reveal our sumptuous gala dinner, sparkling crystal chandeliers that quivered as the handsome tenor hit the high note of a well-known aria – it was a magical night.
Another exclusive Tauck dining extravaganza and tour at the privately owned Lobkowicz Palace within Prague Castle was accompanied by Mozart from a classical string quartet and had my inner royalty coveting various treasures from the extraordinary Lobkowicz Collections for my own.
/ MEMORIES ARE MADE OF THIS
The highlights and standouts of our chosen excursions were many. In Bratislava, we cycled out of the city centre through a former Cold War noman’s land to a restored Second World War Nazi bunker visited once by Adolf Hitler. The birdsong and wildflowers were an eerie counterpart to the chill still haunting the thick concrete walls, ancient communication equipment and gun emplacements.
On a dazzling tour of Vienna’s Schonbrunn Palace, strolling through the beautiful gardens, I imagined myself as one of the Habsburg rulers. At the nearby Spanish Riding School stables, in Hofburg Palace, Vienna’s famed
dancing Lipizzaner stallions grazed contentedly in their stalls. Their unique bond with their riders is demonstrated in the beautiful precision riding performances which draw audiences from around the world. Mozart’s birthplace, also in old town Vienna, the world capital of classical music, is a poignant, living memorial to his musical genius and somehow makes him more real, more human. This, juxtaposed with a signature schnitzel lunch prepared by chefs in an open kitchen, are vivid memories Vienna will always conjure for me.
An afternoon’s rigorous e-bike excursion along part of the celebrated 1200 kilometres of Danube cycle path took us through some of Austria’s most breathtaking autumn scenery, with a stop to feed treats to heart-melting deer. After cycling 30 kilometres from the charming village of Engelhartszell, home of Austria’s only remaining Trappist Monastery, to Passau, Germany, a welcome beer awaits us at a riverside brewery. MV Joy, our magical luxury time-machine, has beaten us there for our cruise’s farewell reception.
/ TIME AFTER TIME
My hand pressed against a warm stone wall built by the Romans, as I trod ancient cobblestones and crossed the iconic 12th-century Stone Bridge in the time capsule that is Regensburg in Bavaria. Time has warped and stood still for the past 10 days as I explored the rich heritage of European history, spanning over two millennia and the five countries we visited. Gothic and baroque architectural marvels, soaring cathedrals, imposing palaces and the everyday medieval jumble of houses and kitchens in each old town centre whisper their legends to anyone who cares to listen. Take a Tauck Blue Danube River Cruise back in time and you, too, will hear their stories. RC
Amazed by Austria Stunning Salzburg (top); the Tauck culinary event at Palais Pallavicini with dancers (above) and white-gloved service (right).
$2298.
The Danube
Trunk show
Gucci silk shirt,
Loewe Campo mules,
Celine Eyewear Graphic S277 sunglasses, $635.
Jaeger-Lecoultre Polaris watch, $21,503.
Loulou Studio Teora vest, $578, and pants, $725.
$11,393.
$1045.
Campo $1850.
MR P. bomber jacket, $778.
The Row Rianette poncho, Saint Laurent Le 5 à 7 Bea bag, $4860.
Victoria Beckham maxi dress, $1775.
Valentino Garavani Rockstud boots, $2500.
Liberowe + The Vanguard Raja jacket, $3026.
