Cruise Passenger - Issue 66

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AWARDS

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READER COMPETITION

Cruise Passenger and Holidays of Australia and the World are offering readers the opportunity to win a 10-night cruise for two on Dawn Princess valued at $8,049*.

The winners will sail from Sydney on April 27, 2017.

After a day at sea, you’ll arrive in Brisbane for a day of sightseeing, then it’s another two relaxing sea days before a day ashore in tropical Cairns. The final port of call is Alotau, New Guinea, a paradise of white-sand beaches, crystal waterfalls and volcanic mountains, before ending your cruise in the Northern Territory capital of Darwin. After leaving Dawn Princess, you’ll spend two-nights in Darwin getting your land legs back and exploring the laid-back Top End. PRIZE INCLUDES 10-night cruise aboard Dawn Princess from Sydney to Darwin, departing April 27, 2017, in a Balcony Stateroom for two people including onboard meals, entertainment and pre-paid taxes and gratuities

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• Port calls in Brisbane, Yorkeys Knob (Cairns) and Alotau, Papua New Guinea Two • nights’ accommodation in Darwin including breakfast daily for two people Darwin City Sights Tour for two people • • $1,000 flight voucher

HOW TO ENTER Go to cruisepassenger.com.au/competitions and tell us in 25 words or less why you want to cruise to Darwin on Dawn Princess. * Terms and conditions apply.

See cruisepassenger.com.au/competitions

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READER COMPETITION

Win!

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PUBLISHER’S LETTER

How your next holiday helps Australia’s economy grow

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elcome to the summer edition of Cruise Passenger. We are starting out on Australia’s busiest cruise season – and this year promises to be particularly exciting. Our fleet has expanded. And the vessels arriving in the coming weeks are among the world’s best.

Princess Cruises has put Emerald Princess into Sydney – the biggest Princess ship to be based in Australia. It will give the line a capacity of 11,800 berths across five ships. That’s the most outside America.

And Royal Caribbean’s Ovation of the Seas – a ship that promises to change the perception of cruising forever – is also homeporting in Sydney for the season.

Ovation isn’t just the biggest and most modern ship to call Australia home. She also represents the enormous advances being made on every cruise line, from fabulous food to jaw-dropping activities.

Seasoned favourite P&O also has a new build underway; Pacific Explorer is coming our way in June 2017. The line has opened 21 new destinations around Australia and nearby over the past three years, spreading the wealth and jobs created by cruising to places far and wide.

Wollongong welcomed its first cruise ship in October and Newcastle has joined

the ranks of cruise destinations, while ports around Tasmania continue to grow.

P&O has refurbished its five-strong fleet with new activities, restaurants, pools and public areas.

Carnival is retaining Carnival Spirit and Legend, and hoping to bring another ship. Norwegian is sending Norwegian Star. Holland America Line’s Maasdam will sail from Australia and Seabourn’s new Seabourn Encore will tackle two sailings.

Celebrity Cruises’ Celebrity Solstice has been upgraded and continues to be one of Australia’s favourites.

All of this is great for our economy. Cruise Lines International Association Australasia says the industry’s economic worth has increased one billion dollars in a year, up 27 per cent to $4.6 billion. Some 18,000 jobs are linked to the success of cruising.

International passengers spend about $708 a day in pre-cruise and post-cruise visits, while Aussies spend $485. So an international cruise ship of 2,000 passengers could bring $1.4 million a day in passenger spending.

That’s worth celebrating.

Peter Lynch

Publisher, Cruise Passenger

THANKS FOR MARKING 21 YEARS OF PROUD PUBLISHING In 2017, Cruise Passenger celebrates 21 years of publishing – a proud history during which we have grown along with cruising’s popularity.

This milestone is really thanks to you, our loyal readers, so it is particularly pleasing to note that our Readers’ Choice awards this year notched up their own record – the highest ever participation. Some 4,000 of you took part, worth an award in itself.

An enormous thanks to all who voted – and congratulations to our winners.

To celebrate our coming of age, we’ve

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put our website into dry dock for a refit.

Cruisepassenger.com.au now has better search capabilities and much more content to allow you to research the ships and destinations you are considering. We will also be stepping up our newsletters.

Take a look at our online offerings and tell us what you think. And please continue to send in your ship reviews. Our Rate Your Ship section will grow into one of the most important libraries of reviews in Australia, helping fellow passengers and those new to cruise to pick the right line and itinerary.

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OCEAN, RIVER & ADVENTURE

passenger

Issue 66, Summer 2016

Editor-in-chief and publisher Peter Lynch peter.lynch@bigsplashmedia.com.au Executive editor Teresa Ooi teresa@cruisepassenger.com.au Art director/production manager Catherine Martin Sub editors Sandy McPhie, Hannah Warren National advertising director Leisa Chell leisa@bigsplashmedia.com.au Deputy editor Bernadette Chua bernadette@bigsplashmedia.com.au Digital director James Brouard Contributors and writers Sue Bryant, Bernadette Chua, Roderick Eime, Tim Faircloth, Susan Gough Henly, Brian Johnston, Lucy Jones, Peter Lynch, Sally Macmillan, Teresa Ooi, Jocelyn Pride, Nick Walton Subscriptions Phone 1300 668 905 - Australia Phone +612 8227 6400 - International cruisepassenger.com.au/magazine Printed by Offset Alpine Printing

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CRUISE MEDIA AUSTRALASIA

Cruise Passenger magazine is published by Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd Suite 3, Level 6 8-10 Loftus Street Sydney 2000 bigsplashmedia.com.au Phone: +61 2 9231 3518 Managing director Peter Lynch

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Copyright Cruise Media Australasia Pty Ltd. Opinions expressed are those of the individual contributors and are not necessarily those of the publisher. All reasonable efforts have been made to contact copyright holders. Information provided believed to be correct at time of publication, however details can change at any time and all information, including prices, in this magazine should be considered general in nature only.

No travel decisions should be made solely on the information provided. Always consult your travel agent.

YOUR WEEKLY FIX OF REVIEWS, DEALS & NEWS Subscribe at cruisepassenger.com.au 4

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WHEN WE EXPLORE THE WORLD, WE ALLOW OURSELVES TO DISCOVER WITHIN cru覺se passenger

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Readers' Choice

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CONTENTS

Summer

INSIDE

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2016 9-23 Cruise News

To help you choose a cruise, our expert writers bring you reviews of Sea Princess, Genting Dream, Viking Sea, Hebridean Sky. See Page 27

Richard Branson’s “sexy” new cruise line; Another bumper wave season; big new ship arrivals; top shore excursions in NZ and the Pacific; entertainment on board; world cruise comeback; the logistics of turning our biggest ship around in Sydney; adventure goes luxe.

SHIP REVIEWS

Your votes have been tallied and the winners have been announced for the 2016 Cruise Passenger Readers’ Choice Awards.

See Page 43

27-29 Sea Princess

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What’s it like to spend three months on a ship? Jo Castro takes a 104-night Princess world cruise to 25 countries to find out.

30-33 Genting Dream

Asia’s first luxury cruise ship has launched.

Bernadette Chua joins her maiden voyage to Vietnam and discovers a smooth blend of East and West.

34-37 Viking Sea

From Barcelona to Bergen, Brian Johnston joins Viking Ocean Cruises’ second ship for a comprehensive journey around Europe.

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38-41 Hebridean Sky

A special cruise with the London Festival Opera gives Sue Bryant a fix of Mediterranean sun, culture and song.

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2016 READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS

43-57 And the winners are…

From mid-range to luxury, adventure to river cruises, spas to family fun and onboard entertainment, find out who has taken out the prestigious gongs in this year’s Cruise Passenger Readers’ Choice Awards.

CRUISE PLUS From an adventure cruise close to home to the farflung Northwest Passage, plus butlers at sea, airline and hotel reviews and destintions. See page 59

60-63 Australia’s new adventure playground

P&O dips a toe into adventure cruising with an itinerary from Cairns to Papua New Guinea’s remote Trobriand Islands.

64-67 Are you being served?

Cover: Photograph courtesy Royal Caribbean.

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The white-gloved man servant is making a big comeback on board cruise ships, offering to fulfil guests’ every need.

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CONTENTS

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44

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68-69 Picture perfect

Tips on capturing all your favourite cruise memories with a camera.

REGULARS

84 Wellness: Asian-inspired spas.

86 Style: Our picks for summer cruising.

90 Airline review: British Airways

70-73 Expedition to the Kingdom of Ice

business class.

74-77 A slow boat to Venice

94 Destination: Shanghai, China.

96 Port report: Wollongong, NSW. 98 Last word: Kids on board.

The Northwest Passage is entering a new era of exploration as melting ice allows cruise ships to attempt the crossing.

Following the waterways from Mantua to Venice by barge and bicycle offers a unique way to explore Italy.

92 Hotel review: Comparing Singapore’s two Fullerton hotels.

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ALL YOU NEED

78-79 Best of both worlds

Australian chef Mark Best teams up with Asia’s new Genting Dream to open his East-West fusion Bistro on board.

80-83 Simply gorgeous

Teresa Ooi cruises down the Yangtze through China’s beautiful Three Gorges.

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Cruisenews

OCEAN PAGE 12

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RIVER

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ADVENTURE

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CRUISE NEWS

PORTS PAGE 18

Three big new Top independant 5,000 on, 5,000 off in just one day ships Down Under shore excursions Giant Mama and Baby sculpture on Ovation of the Seas

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CRUISE NEWS

VIRGIN VOYAGES

Richard Branson’s “sexy” cruise line

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onstruction of the first of three ships for Richard Branson’s Virgin Voyages begins early next year. Mr Branson is promising a “sexy” cruise line that will provide “the most irresistible vacation at sea”.

The line’s first ship will be based year round in Miami and will sail around the Caribbean, Virgin Voyages president and CEO, Tom McAlpin, told Cruise Passenger. He said Virgin Voyages was keen to attract first-time cruisers.

“Innovation, adaptability and the boldness to depart from the expected defines the vision of Virgin Voyages,” Mr McAlpin said.

“This means we look through a different lens, and a strong consideration is attracting the traveller who hasn’t sailed before.

“Virgin Voyages positioning is bold, romantic, glamorous and very modern. We won’t be a budget line, but like every Virgin business, we aim to deliver extraordinary value.”

NEW P&O SHIP

Battle for family cruisers heats up

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he battle for the Aussie family cruise passenger will be joined in earnest next year, when P&O’s new ship Pacific Explorer, enters the fleet.

Arriving in June 2017, Pacific Explorer will throw down the gauntlet to Royal Caribbean and Carnival Cruise Lines with

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two new waterslides, a water park and barefoot bowls.

“With the Pacific Explorer, we are putting a stake in the ground and saying we’re definitely for families,” Simon Cheng, Vice President Sales, Marketing and PR at Carnival Australia, told Cruise Passenger.

$12.7 million cruise terminal for Newcastle ■ Newcastle is set to become New

South Wale’s second major cruise port.

The NSW Government has announced plans for a $12.7 million multi-purpose terminal at the Newcastle port.

The new facility will be a similar size to Sydney’s White Bay Terminal and will accommodate cruise ships up to 3,000-metres long.

Newcastle is already on itineraries for several cruise lines, including P&O Cruises and Cunard. P&O president Sture Myrmell said the new terminal would attract more lines.

“It reinforces the great reputation the people of Newcastle have earned over the years for the warmth of their of their welcome,” he said.

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CRUISE NEWS EXPANDING OCEAN FLEET

A new Viking is coming

BY POPULAR DEMAND

■ Award-winning Viking Ocean Cruises will deploy its fifth ship, Viking Spirit, to Asia and Australia for the 2018 summer season. Company chairman Torstein Hagen said Spirit will cruise between Bangkok and Hong Kong and between Sydney and Auckland and then head north on a 93-day repositioning cruise from Auckland to Vancouver.

“In the old days, people used to call this a Circle Pacific cruise. Many of our guests like long cruises,” said Mr Hagen.

In the meantime, Viking Star, the first of six identical ships to be built for the line, is on its way to San Juan to begin the line’s first cruises in the Caribbean.

Its second ship, Viking Sea, will spend the European winter in the Mediterranean.

Its third ocean ship, Viking Sky, is due for completion February, followed by Viking Sun in October 2017. vikingcruises.com.au Viking Sea review – page 34

MORE NEW ARRIVALS

ANOTHER BUMPER WAVE SEASON

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he 2016/17 wave season will see a new fleet of ships making their inaugural trips to Australia. And over the next 18 months, we will welcome more new ships than ever.

The newbies are a testament to the popularity of cruise

Spirit will stay Down Under

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arnival Spirit, one of Australia’s favourite ships, will be staying in Australia. Earlier this year, Carnival Cruises announced the ship would spend a season in Shanghai after going into dry dock in Singapore in May 2018. But, due to popular demand, she will now return Down Under immediately.

“We’ve just had such a great demand for the ship in Australian waters and among Australian cruisers that we believed it was a good idea to keep Spirit here,” Carnival Cruise Line Vice President of Australia, Jennifer Vandekreeke told Cruise Passenger.

She refuted a suggestion that the line’s change of heart was due to the arrival of Ovation of the Seas, Royal Caribbean’s fourth largest ship, in December.

holidays among Aussies. More than 40 cruise ships will sail Down Under this summer, including eight ships making their maiden visits.

There will be 70 maiden calls to ports in Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific.

In addition to the big arrivals – Ovation of the Seas and Emerald Princess (see page 12), which will be cruising from Sydney, the luxury Seabourn

The technologically advanced megaship will be stiff competition for local cruise brands.

“The decision was not because of the arrival of Ovation. In fact, it’s great to see new ships that will attract first-time cruisers. The whole idea is to get new people on board all of our ships and the more attractive the ships are, the more we can change people’s perception of cruising.”

Ms Vandekreeke also said Carnival is keen to bring another ship to Australia, but is being hampered by the lack of port space in major cities.

“There are massive constraints on ports in all major cities in Australia.

Sydney is full and we would love to put a ship in Brisbane – Queenslanders would fit the brand perfectly, but there is no space available.” carnival.com.au

Encore will sail in fresh from her christening in Singapore. She will make nine maiden calls to ports from Darwin to Geelong.

Following the success of Azamara Quest in Australia, Azamara Club Cruises is sending the newly refurbished Azamara Journey to sail six cruises in Australia and New Zealand in February and March 2017.

Norwegian Cruise Line’s Norwegian Star will be

sailing from Southeast Asia, New Zealand and Australia from January to March 2017.

Norwegian Jewel will be based in Sydney from November 2017.

Europa 2 from Hapag-Lloyd Cruises will visit Australia and New Zealand in January and February 2017 and Oceania Cruises’ Oceania Sirena is also making an inaugural visit, sailing from Sydney from February to April 2017. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE NEWS: BIG ARRIVALS

New kids on the dock

Three big new ships are offering Australian cruisers even more choice close to home.

Lucy Jones looks at the line up.

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ustralians are certainly loyal cruisers. Many of you will remember the tears that flowed when local favourite Rhapsody of the Seas sailed off into the sunset after eight seasons Down Under.

Now it seems a new ship arrives for a homeported season (or even just a quick visit) every week. Aussies have the chance to test-cruise some of the newest, most technologically advanced ships in the world.

Two new arrivals for the 2016/17 wave season are Emerald Princess and Ovation of the Seas. The ships will be based in Sydney and will sail around Australia, New Zealand and the South Pacific for the next few months. Further ahead, Norwegian Cruise Line will homeport Norwegian Jewel in Australia for the first time in 2017. Here’s how the new kids on the dock stack up.

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CRUISE NEWS: BIG ARRIVALS

OVATION OF THE SEAS EMERALD PRINCESS Arrived in Australia: November 15, 2016 Size: 113,561 tonnes; 290 metres; 15 passenger decks Passengers: 3,092 Crew to passenger ratio: 1 crew: 2.6 passengers Dining: 11 dining options (six included, five specialty) including SHARE by Curtis Stone and The Salty Dog Gastropub Bars & entertainment: Nine bars and lounges Activities: Jogging track, sports court, nine-hole putting course, shuffleboard, Movies Under the Stars Watersports: four pools; seven hot tubs Family: Family suites, three kids’ clubs (three-seven years; eight-12 years; 13-17 years), video arcade Wellness: Lotus Spa, Lotus Spa pool, adults-only Sanctuary, fitness centre.

Arrives in Australia: December 15, 2016 Size: 168,666 tonnes; 290 metres; 16 passenger decks Passengers: 4,180 Crew to passenger ratio: 1 crew: 2.8 passengers Dining: 19 dining options (11 included, eight specialty) including Jamie’s Italian, Wonderland Imaginative Cuisine and Kung Fu Panda Noodle Shop Bars & entertainment: 12 bars and lounges including Bionic Bar and Two70 theatre Activities: FloRider surf simulator, RipCord by iFly skydiving simulator, SeaPlex entertainment complex (bumper cars, roller rink, circus school), North Star viewing capsule, sports court, rock-climbing wall, jogging track Watersports: four pools, four hot tubs, H20 Zone kids’ waterpark Family: Family Connected Junior Suites; six kids’ clubs (six to 36 months; three to five years; six to eight years; nine11 years; 12-14 years; 15-17 years), DreamWorks Experience, Video arcade, Teen disco Wellness: Vitality at Sea Spa, fitness centre, adults-only Solarium with pool.

NORWEGIAN JEWEL Arrives in Australia: November 12, 2017 Size: 93,502 tonnes; 296 metres; 12 passenger decks Passengers: 2,376 Crew to passenger ratio: 1 crew: 2.2 passengers Dining: 15 dining options (eight included, seven specialty) Bars & entertainment: 14 bars and lounges including Sake Bar and FYZZ Cabaret Lounge Activities: Sports court, waterslides, jogging track, karaoke rooms Watersports: two swimming pools, six hot tubs, waterslide Family: interconnecting cabins, Haven Family Villas, four kids’ clubs (three to five years; six to nine years; 10-12 years; teens); The Haven private enclave.

Wellness: Mandara Spa, Spa Thermal Suite, fitness centre.

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CRUISE NEWS: ON SHORE

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Half Day Ultimate Wine Tour in Napier, NZ. From the art deco town of

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Highlights of Marlborough from Picton, NZ. A short and scenic shuttle

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Guided Country Tour from Noumea, New Caledonia. Make the most of

Napier, you’ll experience some of NZ’s finest wine. As well as tastings at three wineries, you’ll tour the cellars and learn about wine making before heading to the country’s only wine museum to brush up on the art of food and wine matching. $117 per person.

journey takes guests to Blenheim to spend the day learning about the region’s cultural history and sampling gourmet treats at winery gardens and cafes. $117 per person.

the South Pacific’s most popular cruise stop with a tour exploring the scenic and cultural surroundings of the area. Guides will take you to the Tjibaou Cultural Centre to experience Melanesian customs and show of the area’s natural beauty. You’ll also stop at Plum Spring to taste mineral water from the source. $110 per person.

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TOP 8 SHORE EXCURSIONS ■ Australian cruise passengers are looking beyond their ships’ tour desks to book shore excursions that are more unusual, and often cheaper, than those offered by cruise lines.

Kelly Gillease, vice president of marketing for tour company Viator, told Cruise Passenger there was a growing trend among Australian cruisers to book independent shore tours.

“Apart from being able to pre-book before you board the ship, the tours are often unique, small-group experiences that are more challenging for the cruise lines to offer,” she said.

“In some cases, the tours are also lower in price than an onboard booked excursion.

This has all contributed to an increase of more than 60 per cent in the Australian cruising market for Viator’s shore excursion tours.”

Here are Viator’s top shore excursions among Australians cruising the South Pacific and New Zealand.

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Dunedin Shore Excursion: Taieri Gorge Railway Tour and City Sightseeing, NZ. Journey on New

Zealand’s longest railway through the Taieri Gorge, soaking up panoramic views.

After lunch in Dunedin, board a coach for a tour to learn about Dunedin’s history and visit the city’s most interesting sites. This was Viator’s most popular shore excursion last season. $161 per person.

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Tauranga Shore Excursion: Rotorua Highlights, NZ. This

seven-hour tour takes guests to the hot springs region of Rotarua. It includes Pohutu Geyser, a living Maori village and Okere Falls at the Bay of Plenty. This was Viator’s second highest-selling shore tour for 2015/16. $141 per person.

Zipline Canopy Tour, Vanuatu. Escape the hustle of Port Vila and experience the beauty of the jungle with a four-wheeldrive tour along off-road tracks. Then try six ziplines over the jungle canopy and an 80-metre canyon. In between ziplines, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of greater Port Vila and the ridge line down to the stunning Mele Bay. $110 per person.

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Jet Boat Safari on the Sigatoka River, Fiji. This tour takes guests deep into

the interior of the island to learn about the Sigatoka region’s history and Fijian village life. Share a meal with the villagers before returning to your jet boat for some signature maneuvers on the way home. $163 per person.

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Tahiti Helicopter Tour, French Polynesia.

There’s no better way to see the wonders of Tahiti than from the air. You’ll have a breathtaking aerial view of scenic marvels such as Mont Orohena, the spectacular turquoise lagoon of Puna’auia and the Fautaua Waterfall, one of the highest waterfalls in the world. $246 per person. viator.com

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CRUISE NEWS

Princess steps up the luxury

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rincess Cruises has revealed details of its new Asian ship, Majestic Princess – hailed as the most luxurious vessel in its global fleet. The ship will have two specialty restaurants, Harmony, for haute Chinese cuisine, and Le Bistrot, for French home-style dining with a modern twist.

Other dining experiences will include degustation at Chef’s Table Lumiere, Crown Grill & Bar and Italian-themed Alfredo.

The ship’s design is influenced by fashion, art and history with European finishes, including

marble, mosaic tiles, polished wood and lush fabrics. More than 80 per cent of Majestic Princess’ staterooms have private balconies and all cabins feature the new Princess Luxury bed, designed by sleep expert Dr Michael Breus. The ship will also feature the SeaWalk, the firstever glass-floor walkway at sea.

The atrium has the nearly 1,100 square metres of luxury boutiques, including Cartier, Bulgari and Chopard.

Majestic Princess will cruise the Mediterranean from April 4 to May 14, 2017. Then she’ll sail for her new home in Shanghai, via Dubai and Singapore. From Shanghai, Majestic Princess will carry up to 3,560 guests to a variety of destinations in Japan and Korea. princess.com.au

SCENIC GUARANTEE

Extra cover for river cruisers

Luxury river-cruise line Scenic has released a new guarantee for sailings in Europe. The Scenic River Cruise Guarantee, included in the fare, is designed to augment passengers’ travel insurance and covers river-specific incidents such as high water or flooding severely disrupting their itinerary. The aim is to help cover passenger whose travel insurance company will only part-pay or declines a claim. For 2017 booking, Scenic will refund passengers in cash rather than cruising credit, should any major incidents occur, including delays of more than 24 hours or major diversions. scenic.com.au

New build for Alaska In a cruise industry first, Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) has announced it will build a new ship for the Alaskan waters. Norwegian Bliss will be the first ship custom-built to sail the increasingly popular destination.

From June 2018, Norwegian Bliss will carry 4,000 passengers from Seattle on seven-day itineraries to Alaska and British Columbia, Canada.

NCL president and CEO Andy Stuart said the ship will be the first of its kind in the market.

“We are thrilled to be the first cruise line to offer our guests the opportunity to experience this coveted destination aboard a brand new, state-of-the-art cruise ship custom designed for Alaska, the first of its kind to ever debut in Seattle,” he said. ncl.com

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CRUISE NEWS

s ’ t a h T t n e m n i a t r e t en

Our homeported ships have an amazing line up of musicals and high-tech shows.

Gone are the days of stuffy theatre productions on board cruise ships.

Entertainment at sea now includes robotics, Broadway musical spectaculars, acrobatics and more.

■ On the largest ship in Australia this wave season, Royal Caribbean’s Ovation of the Seas, the Two70 theatre’s floor-toceiling windows are transformed with 18 projectors to create an amazing venue by night. Shows in the high-tech, multilevel theatre include Spectra’s Cabaret, a blend of live performance and experiential cinema, and Vistarama and Roboshow, combining state-of-the-art technology with live performances.

■ Princess Cruises has teamed up with Grammy and Tony award-winning composer Stephen Schwartz to produce 16

Magic to Do for Crown Princess, Ruby Princess and Emerald Princess. This is Schwartz’s first production for a cruise line and includes some of his famous songs such as Day by Day and Defying Gravity and a new number, A Little Magic, composed exclusively for Princess.

Schwartz will be developing four new musicals to debut across the fleet.

■ Shows on P&O’s Pacific Eden and Pacific Aria include the contemporary dance production Twice Upon a Time. There is no dialogue in the show, instead the

Clockwise from above: Carnival Cruise Line’s 80s Pop to the Max; P&O’s Twice Upon a Time; Princess Cruises’ Magic to Do

story is told through an original score and evocative choreography. Also on board P&O’s fleet is Sideshow Alley, a story about characters in a travelling sideshow, with beautiful sets and intricate costumes.

■ On Carnival Spirit, 80s Pop to the Max is a dance spectacular featuring fun choreography and some of the best music from the 1980s – think colourful multimedia as well as routines on treadmills.

■ Motor City on Carnival Legend pays homage to the R&B Motown sound of the 1960s and 70s, with hits from the Commodores, Lionel Richie, Martha and the Vandellas, Marvin Gaye, The Supremes and Stevie Wonder.

– Bernadette Chua

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CRUISE NEWS THE LONG HAUL

World cruising is back in fashion

R

ound the world cruises are making a comeback, with more lines offering the epic trip.

When Princess Cruises opened its 2018 circumnavigation to the public in November, the line had its biggest ever sales day.

Princess’s 2018 world cruise from Sydney is a 106-night

journey on Sea Princess visiting 40 destinations in 27 countries. Highlights include new ports in Greenland, Newfoundland and Eastern Canada.

MSC has jumped on the world-cruise bandwagon, offering a new 119-day

Le Soléal will take the Antarctic leg of Mundy’s World of Travel cruise

circumnavigation departing Genoa in January, 2019. MSC Magnifica will visit six continents, calling at 49 ports in 32 countries.

For those wanting an even more leisurely exploration, UK travel agent Mundy Cruising has

crafted the world’s longest and more comprehensive cruise – a 357-day odyssey visiting seven continents on seven ships.

Mundy’s World of Travel cruise begins in Miami in January 2017 and will include segments on Ponant’s Le Soléal (Antarctica), Holland America Line’s Maasdam (Australia) and Crystal Cruises’ Crystal Serenity (South America). It will take in exotic destinations such as the Maldives, Machu Picchu and Angkor Wat. Between continents, guests can take a break and go home before joining the next leg.

“It has the appeal of a world cruise, but can be done in manageable chunks,” a spokesperson from Mundy Cruising told The Telegraph UK. “It’s ideal for those who want the opportunity to return home and prepare for the next trip.”

Sea Princess review – page 27

S A I L I N TO LU X U RY R E T I R EM E N T The new level in first class care As one of Brisbane’s most desirable inner city addresses, The Clayfield is the epitome of contemporary retirement living. With Brisbane’s main cruise terminal just minutes away, and a personal concierge to chauffeur you there and back, visiting family and friends couldn’t be easier. Take up residence in a secure community where care staff are present 24/7, as well as a dedicated Care Services Manager and a GP clinic on-site for your peace of mind.

Brand new apartments available now from $450,000 to $1,150,000 Call 13 28 36 or visit theclayfield.com.au *Prices correct as at 10/11/2016. AVQC182

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25/11/2016 2:46 PM

CRUISE NEWS: OVATION OF THE SEAS

THE BIG SWITCH 5,000 on. 5,000 off.

The biggest turnaound in Australia. Teresa Ooi reports.

W

hen the megaship Ovation of the Seas sails into Sydney and docks at the Overseas Passenger Terminal (OPT), a military-style operation swings into action.

In 10 hours, some 4,900 passengers disembark and another 4,900 step aboard.

That means 10,000 pieces of accompanying luggage have to be unloaded and another 10,000 loaded. And that is not all.

Down in the bowels of the ship, forklifts are hard at work with crew, dock workers and suppliers frantically loading thousands of kilograms of food.

An army of housekeepers among the ship’s 1,500 crew members will have to clean the 2,091 cabins and bathrooms, remake the beds and get the ship’s 16 passenger decks, 18 restaurants and 12 bars and lounges spick and span before the next 4,900 passengers embark.

This is what is called a “turnaround day” – and speed is everything. Just as commercial aircraft make money flying not sitting on the tarmac, keeping ships at sea is crucial to a cruise ship’s bottom line.

Royal Caribbean’s newest ship, Ovation

18

of the Seas is spending the summer wave season homeported in Sydney. And preparing for the ship’s arrival at the OPT on December 15 was a big test for the cruise line and the Port of Authority of New South Wales.

Both put in a year of planning before Ovation’s arrival Down Under.

While RCL fine-tuned and road-

they ordered the installation of two concrete bollards at the OPT, at the cost of about $1 million, to ensure the 347-metre long, 41-metre wide, 168,666 tonne Ovation could be safely secured.

The first and last day of any cruise are the busiest time for the ship’s crew.

According to a New York Times article, Royal Caribbean attendants are responsible

The sheer size and complexity of Ovation’s turnarounds was mindboggling. tested the huge logistical operation, Port Authority NSW’s general manager, cruise, John McKenna, led a 10-member delegation including immigration officers, ground handlers, stevedores and customerservice executives to Singapore to learn how their counterparts handled two turnarounds of Ovation.

“The sheer size and complexity of Ovation’s turnarounds was mindboggling,” Mr McKenna says.

After spending a week in Singapore,

for up to 17 cabins each and have a precise list of tasks to perform on turnaround day.

They first have to take out the dirty linen and towels and line them up in the hallways. Rooms are then dusted and wiped. It is estimated that 189 housekeepers can get about 2,700 cabins ready by noon.

This will happen in Sydney eight times while Ovation cruises from the OPT on three- to 15-night itineraries around Australia, New Zealand and the South

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25/11/2016 2:46 PM

CRUISE NEWS: OVATION OF THE SEAS

FOR A 15-NIGHT CRUISE OVATION OF THE SEAS WILL LOAD Pacific, from December until February 2017.

At the end of each cruise, passengers and their luggage have a two-and-a-half hour window between 7am to 9.30am to vacate their cabins and disembark.

The ship must then be ready for new passengers to start to check-in at midday.

Everyone must to be on board by 5pm before the ship sails away at 6.30pm.

Passengers can now check-in using mobile iPads instead of queuing at counters. Port officials have been deployed at the OPT to help embarking passengers and staggered boarding times have been introduced to avoid the bottleneck of passengers boarding at the same time, Mr McKenna says.

Access to the northern end of Circular Quay has been opened to allow up to seven trucks to unload supplies.

“The fact Ovation will visit Sydney eight times this wave season is testament that RCL has confidence in our ability to handle megaships,” said Mr McKenna.

“We are open for business. We want the world’s biggest ship, Harmony of the Seas to come here.”

40 varieties of fresh fruit

10,200kg beef 6,600kg chicken

7,500 dozen eggs

13,600kg potatoes 1,428kg lobster tail

8,572kg flour 3,400kg French fries 3,606kg bacon 80 types of vegetables

60 jars of cherries 476kg ice-cream

40 brands of beer 200 different kinds of spices

cruisepassenger.com.au

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25/11/2016 2:11 PM

YOUR SAY

The right plan for a national treasure

T

he NSW State Government has been working on a 10-year plan for accommodating cruise ships in Sydney Harbour for at least two years. In that time, the number of ships arriving in the country’s premier port has risen, and so has their size and capacity.

To underscore the need for a solution, the world’s fourth largest cruise ship – Royal Caribbean’s Ovation of the Seas – has began her first season out of Sydney, and shortly the Port Authority of NSW will trial berthing two ships on the same day at the Overseas Passenger Terminal (OPT).

Capacity is a common problem around the world. As the number of families taking cruises swells to more than 20 million, the industry has constructed bigger ships with hugely technical entertainment activities.

Port infrastructure, however, has not kept pace. Many cities are running out of space.

In Sydney’s case, there is an added

Steve Odell, CLIA

complexity. Many modern vessels can’t sail under the Sydney Harbour Bridge. So while the relatively new White Bay Cruise Terminal can accommodate some of the growing armada calling Sydney home, ship’s such as Queen Mary 2 cannot stop there.

That just leaves the OPT – already upgraded to maximise capacity but, according to cruise-line chiefs, still not enough. Or an anchorage in the harbour, and the expense of tendering to shore.

The cruise industry has been lobbying the federal government for years to get more space. Not surprisingly, lines such as P&O have been eyeing Garden Island, the historic Sydney home of the Royal Australian Navy. But if the reaction to

NSW Government

■ “As cruise lines increasingly announce exciting new ships and deployments in this region, Australia will only continue to benefit in the long term if steps are taken to put the necessary infrastructure in place. Sydney is the gateway and Sydney has to be the place where people join or leave ships.”

■ “The Cruise Development Plan, to be developed in consultation with industry, will forecast the growth in cruise ship arrivals and passenger numbers to ensure NSW is equipped to capture a larger share of the economic benefits, including providing supplies to ships and tours for passengers.”

SMOKING BANS We stopped cruising with Holland America Line as we were sick of cigar and cigarette smoke being blown our way on the balcony. You paid for this privilege and could not enjoy it. We may consider returning now HAL has banned smoking. Alison Mudgeway

WHAT ABOUT BRISBANE? Brisbane and the Gold Coast have been “talking” but not doing anything for years about where to put a new cruise terminal. It is so hard to hear the negative comments from overseas tourists when they see the disgusting area the larger ships have to berth in. A lovely terminal was built in Brisbane a few years ago, however, being

reports of their actions is anything to go by, they will need to deal with much more than the venerable admirals of our fleet.

The feeling of historic attachment to Garden Island, so named because it housed the kitchen garden of First Fleet vessel HMS Sirius, runs high.

Cruise Passenger’s website ran hot with reaction when we carried reports of the cruise industry’s campaign. Most readers felt the Navy’s history and significance gave it first dibs on this premier location.

Some cruise lines support cruise berths at Port Botany. Royal Caribbean, for instance, has long believed expanding this busy port facility to take the biggest ships would be a simpler and more palatable solution.

No-one doubts Australia’s cruise industry is valuable. Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) Australasia says its economic worth has increased one billion dollars in a year to $4.6 billion.

CLIA Australasia’s chairman Steve Odell, who also heads Norwegian Cruise Lines, Oceania and Regent Seven Seas, maintains international tourist numbers have dropped due to capacity restraints – mainly in Sydney.

The state government’s long awaited 10-year plan now needs to come up with an innovative solution.

Daniel Berry, reader “I like how the industry tried to use the old ‘it will bring jobs and tourist dollars in’. It will bring in a few, but the massive numbers of jobs that would be lost by the ‘Grey Fleet’ leaving would never be made up by a cruise terminal.

All up Sydney needs the grey ships more than your pretty white ones.”

■

close to the CBD, large ships cannot get under the Gateway Bridge to access it. I am sick of the talk, talk, talk and I’m sure the cruise companies are even more so! Diane Weir SAIL TO NEWCASTLE If Sydney is too crowded to handle more cruise ships, why not look just 70 nautical miles north to Newcastle? Less than

Tell us what’s on your mind at: cruisepassenger.com.au 20

Chris Harris, reader ■ “Cruise ships have had to sail past Royal Australian Navy ships since time immemorial, and Sydney isn’t the only harbour in the world that shares waterways with warships.

“It’s our warships that stop cruise ships from being attacked by pirates on the high seas.”

two hours from Sydney, this city provides a perfect alternative for NSW passengers with berthing facilities for vessels up to 320 metres long – and plenty of depth in the harbour. Combine all this with a new purposebuilt cruise terminal, which is so easy to get to, and you have a real viable alternative to begging the Navy for space. Too easy.

Martyn Hoane

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Twitter

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25/11/2016 3:31 PM

CRUISE NEWS

How cruise is growing our economy With the cruise industry pumping $4.6 billion into Australia, its continued growth is good news all round, writes Joel Katz.

W

ith nearly one in 20 Aussies cruising in Australia last year, cruise lines have increased the number and size of vessels calling Australia home. The result is a 27 per cent rise in the contribution of cruising to the Australian economy.

In CLIA Australasia’s recently released report, Contribution of Cruise Tourism to the Australian Economy in 2015-16, the industry’s economic contribution was shown to have reached a record $4.6 billion. That means 18,700 jobs for Australians.

The CLIA report shows overall cruiseship visit days to Australian ports grew by 39 per cent in 2015-16, with a 45 per cent surge in calls by homeported ships helping to boost the economic impact of cruising.

Homeported ships accounted for 82 per cent of total passenger port days, up 32 per

Celebrating 18 years of delivering award winning cruise holidays

cent on the previous year, reflecting the growth in local cruising.

The rise in homeported ships offering local itineraries also saw an increase in calls around Australia, helping to further spread the economic benefit to all states.

The overall economic output of cruising in New South Wales rose by 20 per cent in real terms to $2.89 billion, while Queensland’s contribution surged by 53 per cent to $976 million. Victoria’s output was up 43 per cent to $346 million, while the Northern Territory’s output doubled to $62 million, Tasmania rose by 32 per cent to $60 million, South Australia was up 72 per cent to $51 million and Western Australia rose 9 per cent to $190 million.

Although NSW remains the dominant cruise state, accounting for 63 per cent of the industry’s economic contribution, this represented a 5 per cent fall in market share,

which reinforced the impact of capacity constraints, particularly in Sydney, at a time when cruise lines are increasingly announcing exciting new and larger ships and deployments to this region.

As this bumper summer cruise season kicks-off, five cruise lines will be making their first ever calls to a range of ports from Darwin, NT to Burnie, Tasmania, while individual ships will be making close to 70 maiden calls to coastal towns and cities.

Communities around Australia are excited to welcome these ships and share in the economic benefits from cruise tourism.

Joel Katz is the managing director of Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) Australasia

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25/11/2016 3:32 PM

CRUISE NEWS: EXPEDITIONS

Adventure goes luxe Half a dozen top cruise lines are changing the face of luxury expedition cruising.

O

nce a niche for aspiring adventure seekers, the expedition cruise market is rapidly catching up with the mainstream trends of luxury and service. Technology is having a big impact. Submersibles, reliable wi-fi, stabilisers and new polarclass designs are putting wild destinations within comfortable reach. The increase in passenger capacity is also putting downward pressure on fares.

Scenic The 30-year-old Australian cruise company caused a stir when it announced “the world’s first discovery yacht”, Scenic Eclipse, would hit the water in August 2018. Scenic’s ultraluxury megayacht will carry 228 guests in 114 verandah suites, along with two helicopters and a seven-seat submarine. It will have specially designed stabilisers to improve comfort in rough seas. scenic.com.au Crystal Cruises Within months of Scenic announcing Eclipse, Crystal unveiled its plans for the “world’s largest megayacht”, Crystal Endeavor. It pips

22

Eclipse by 15 metres, but will carry 28 fewer guests. It will be built to tough Polar Class 6 standards and will carry two seven-person submarines, two helicopters, jet skis and Zodiacs. crystalcruises.com Lindblad Expeditions This pioneering expedition cruise company has traditionally relied on more modest vessels to reach exceptional destinations, with arguably the best staff in the business. But it is now building two new 100-passenger ships, due to launch in the second half of 2017 and 2018. The line has also acquired the 96-passenger Via Australis, which is undergoing a $10 million refit and will be rechristened with a National Geographic name before replacing the stalwart National Geographic Endeavour in the Galapagos. au.expeditions.com Hapag-Lloyd With minimal fanfare, Hapag-Lloyd has continued to collect the top ratings from Berlitz for its older – but impeccably maintained, expedition vessels, Hanseatic and Bremen. Even so, the pendulum has swung and parent company, TUI Group, has embarked on a program to build two new five-star polar-class expedition ships for delivery in 2019. The ships will be

138-metres long and carry up to 230 guests in 120 suites and cabins. hl-cruises.com Hurtigruten Another historic company moving with the fast-paced times is the Norwegian coastal shipping company Hurtigruten. The first two of possibly four new vessels are due for delivery in 2018 and 2019. These 140-metre, 530-passenger vessels will have ice-strengthened hulls and innovative Rolls-Royce hybrid technology to reduce emissions. hurtigruten.com Ponant The French luxury expedition line is introducing a new series of four yachts called the Ponant Explorers. The first two will be launched in 2018 and the next two in 2019. Le Lapérouse, Le Champlain, Le Bougainville and Le Kerguelen will be 131-metres long, carry 184 passengers and be built to a lighter ice class. en.ponant.com And another…

A recent announcement by Croatian shipyard Brodosplit trumpets a contract for a 108-metre, 196-passenger polar expedition vessel. The client was not named, but delivery is slated for 2019.

– Roderick Eime

cruisepassenger.com.au

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25/11/2016 2:09 PM

CRUISE NEWS: EXPEDITIONS NEW DESTINATION

Exploring Bangladesh W

ell-heeled Australian travellers are flocking to new expedition cruises, according to Silversea’s director of expedition cruises, Conrad Combrink.

“Australians are our second biggest expedition market as they love adventure and immersive voyages that take them to unusual destinations,” he said.

“Silversea is breaking new ground by being the first cruise line to cruise to Bangladesh’s Sundarbans National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which is the largest single block of mangrove forest in the world.

“It is also home to about 400

endangered Bengal tigers. There is a small chance our guests may be able to spot the tigers when they are on the Zodiacs visiting the mangrove swamps.’’

Silversea Discoverer’s first Bangladesh voyage, in February 2017, is almost sold out. The 16-day expedition will also take in Sri Lanka, Andaman Islands and India including a postcruise escorted land expedition to Bhutan or a pre-cruise tour of Nepal. Fares start from $19,350 per person.

Expeditions to the Russian Far East and the polar regions remain the big trends for 2017.

“While other companies

are offering gimmicks like helicopters and submarines, Silversea would never consider them as we pride ourselves on offering immersive expeditions to our clients who are well travelled, inquisitive and well

educated, 60-plus retirees who are primarily interested in the destinations,’’ Mr Combrink said.

Silversea has four expedition ships in its fleet of eight and will add a fifth, Silver Muse, next year. silversea.com

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25/11/2016 2:07 PM

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25/11/2016 2:04 PM

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25/11/2016 2:04 PM

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25/11/2016 2:03 PM

104 nights, 25 countries

SHIP REVIEW:SEA PRINCESS

What makes a world cruise the ultimate journey?

Jo Castro takes to the water for more than a quarter of a year to find out what traversing the planet by sea is really like.

“A

re you mad?” some of our friends asked when we told them we were going on a world cruise for 104 nights. At least our adult children were encouraging: “Just do it! You only live once.”

The itinerary was captivating, from the grand cities of Europe and ancient civilisations of the Middle East to gorgeous tropical islands. Nonetheless, the nagging questions persisted. How could I possibly pack enough clothes? What if we didn’t like our fellow travellers? How about illness?

As we walked up the gangway of Sea Princess – a sister of Sun and Dawn Princess which ply Australian waters – I have to confess to a certain trepidation. My husband and I are good travellers, but we had never been on a cruise.

Compared to days gone by, today’s world cruiser is blessed. The internet and a prepaid

international travel SIM ensured we could stay in contact with family and friends.

Sea Princess holds close to 2,000 passengers and about 1,300 of us were doing the full world cruise. Some were taking work sabbaticals and there were lots of retirees. We now number several septuagenarians and octogenarians among our friends.

Did we get bored with them? Although we dined, watched shows, played table tennis (and didn’t always win), enjoyed learning arts and crafts and attending enrichment lectures, and sometimes just lazed by the pool with them, we found them excellent company.

We feel privileged to count several crew members as lifelong friends, too.

As for packing, I found the clothes that worked the hardest and looked the

best were comfortable pieces suitable for layering and which didn’t require ironing.

I made good use of the ship’s laundry.

On board, we had six different dining options, four pools, five spas to lounge in and two show lounges in which to enjoy entertainers and productions. There were regular movies under the stars, duty-free shopping, a health centre and spa, sports deck, disco, library, casino and a never-ending choice of clubs, activities and entertainment options during the day.

Come back new? We were more worried about coming back knackered!

I still can’t believe we circumnavigated the world, visited 37 destinations in 25 countries on five continents and travelled more than 50,000 kilometres. But we did.

So here we are, four months later, home and still married. In fact, closer than ever. cruisepassenger.com.au

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25/11/2016 2:03 PM

SHIP REVIEW: SEA PRINCESS Nova Scotia We arrived in Sydney and explored Cape Breton Island including the pretty town of Baddeck (famous for the inventor Alexander Bell) and the beautiful Bras d’Or Lake. Gaelic is still spoken here, a legacy of the Scottish Highlanders who settled here in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Belgium From Zeebrugge we travelled to the spectacular medieval city of Bruges for beer, chocolate, moules frites and a canal tour.

STOCK BRUGE

CORK

DOVER

SYDNEY BOSTON NEW YORK

French Polynesia The weather was gorgeous and the ports of call in the Society Islands were hard to beat. We enjoyed three idyllic days exploring Moorea, Tahiti and Raiatea.

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Princess Cruises VESSEL: Sea Princess STAR RATING: 4 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 2,016 TOTAL CREW: 850 PASSENGER DECKS: 10 ENTERED SERVICE: 1998 (refurbished 2005) TONNAGE: 77,690 FACILITIES: Two main dining rooms, plus four other dining options, three pools, five hot tubs, theatre, cinema, casino, library, spa and gym.

BOOKINGS: 104-day world cruise departing Sydney in May 2017 is priced from $20,099 per person, twin share (interior cabin). See princess.com.au

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BERMUDA

Cartagena, Colombia Ringed by thick stone walls that took almost 100 years to complete, the UNESCO-listed old walled city is full of fascinating Spanish colonial heritage.

Bermuda I’ll never forget the pastel coloured houses of Hamilton, the gorgeous Horseshoe Bay and the interesting immersion we had into Bermuda’s darker past at the museum.

LISBON

CARTAGENA MANTA SOCIETY ISLANDS

Ecuador In Manta, we discovered how Panama hats are made, and found out they actually originate here, not Panama.

LIMA EASTER ISLAND

Chile In funky Valparaiso, we had the most wonderful guide who sang to us as we coached around the city.

VALPARAISO

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25/11/2016 5:02 PM

SHIP REVIEW: SEA PRINCESS Russia In St Petersburg, we were knocked sideways by the opulence of the Tsarist rule, including the Winter Palace.

THE VERDICT Highs: Being on a luxury floating resort with my every need taken care of while visiting exciting destinations all around the globe.

Italy I fell in love with the Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri. We docked at Civitavecchia and visited Rome and the Colosseum, having cruised from Salerno where we took a trip to Pompeii.

STOCKHOLM

ST PETERSBURG TALINN

BRUGE

Lows: Using the laundry. Sometimes you have to wait for a machine, which means popping backwards and forwards to your stateroom, or waiting around in the laundry until one becomes available.

Is a World Cruise for you? Ask yourself these questions: Do you enjoy days at sea? Most itineraries have at least one long stretch (up to 10 days in Jo’s case) when you will be confined to the ship.

ROME AQABA

Do you like short stopovers? You need to be aware of what one well-known travel writer calls writer calls “yet another port” syndrome.

DUBAI

Do you get on with all sorts of people? This is crucial. A cruise of this length can test your diplomacy. Having a positive outlook and a sunny disposition certainly helps.

MUSCAT

Jordan From Aqaba in Jordan we jumped onto a modern coach and within a couple of hours we’d been whisked back 2000 years to Petra, the “Rose City”.

Dubai After 10 days at sea, the City of Gold didn’t disappoint; bustling souks, mountains of gold and modern skyscrapers.

FREMANTLE

ADELAIDE

SYDNEY

MELBOURNE

Australia I’ll never forget the sailaway, standing on the deck of Sea Princess for the first time and cruising out of Sydney under the Harbour Bridge as the sun set.

cruisepassenger.com.au

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25/11/2016 5:02 PM

SHIP REVIEW: GENTING DREAM

East meets

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West

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25/11/2016 2:00 PM

SHIP REVIEW: GENTING DREAM

T Asia’s first luxury cruise line, Dream Cruises, has launched in style. Bernadette Chua joins Genting Dream’s maiden voyage.

he new Genting Dream has been branded as the first luxury ship built specifically for the Asian market.

And she is living up to the label.

The first ship from Dream Cruises, a Genting Hong Kong company, exudes all the luxury and sophistication of sister company Crystal Cruises, and is a lovely melding of East and West.

Adorned with beautiful furnishings, plush armchairs, fine German and Japanese hand-painted china, exquisite paintings and marble bathrooms, it’s an amazing feat for Dream Cruises. But what sets it apart from other luxury/premium cruise lines designed for the Asian market is that it follows the ethos of “freestyle cruising”.

Guests are given the options to dine in a more casual setting and are not confined to seating arrangements, and they can watch shows and lounge acts wherever and whenever they like.

The 3,400-passenger ship is on her repositioning cruise from Singapore to Nansha in China, calling at three ports in Vietnam – Ho Chi Minh City, Nha Trang and Danang. From her homeport in Nansha, and nearby Hong Kong, she will then be sailing on five-night Vietnam cruises and two-night weekend getaways.

Itineraries to Japan will start in 2017.

While the ports are exotic, the ship is the main attraction.

Asians love food and Dream Cruises has designed more than 35 restaurants, bars and cafes for the ship. It’s evident after a couple of days which are the biggest hit.

While the ship has unique and first-time partnerships with whisky brand Johnnie

Walker and winemaker Penfolds, these bars are not heavily populated. In the evening, most guests head towards the Tributes Bar, which has a Chinese band singing Mandarin and Cantonese love ballads. In Bar 360, Anna and Emma sing American and British pop songs.

The star restaurant, especially for the Australian crowd, is Bistro by Australian chef Mark Best, former owner of the three-hat Marque in Sydney (see page 78).

Best has amalgamated Asian and Western cuisine to provide something truly unique.

Guests can indulge in Iberico pork, Rangers Valley beef, potatoes cooked with duck fat, fresh oysters and the beautiful “Three Rivers” dish of Murray cod served with Sichuan potatoes and a butter sauce.

Bistro has a private dining area for small groups as well as a large table that can seat up to 30 people.

Umi Uma Restaurant and Umi Uma Teppanyaki serve modern Japanese cuisine.

The teppanyaki bar is great for big groups looking for an interactive dinner while the restaurant, which serves Japanesestyle tuna ceviche, sashimi, wagyu fillet and teriyaki chicken, to name a few, is delicious. The seafood is surprisingly fresh and the quality is good. Unfortunately for us, dinner service was poor, with some guests on the table receiving only two or three of the dishes they ordered and one only receiving her dessert.

The Food Federation is a major hit.

The area is decked out with colonial-style decorations from Southeast Asia and has a cool and kitschy vibe. The best dishes are Hainanese chicken rice, laksa, Nonya

Genting Dream mermaid sculpture (left); Johnnie Walker statue and mural

by Jackie Tsai (right)

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SHIP REVIEW: GENTING DREAM

FACT FILE Clockwise from above: Rockclimbing wall and waterslides; The Voyage of a Lover’s Dream; Dream Suite

chicken curry and Malaysian rice noodles with beef. But guests who fancy a bit of American fast food can grab a burger or hotdog. It’s the best place to get a midnight snack, too.

There is also the Bread Box bakery, Boba Cha bubble tea counter and other small eateries. Guests are required to pay in these areas, as not all food outlets are included in the cruise price, which some guests from Australia have complained about.

The main free dining areas are the Genting Dining Room, Lido Deck and World Grill. The Genting Dining Room serves a mix of Western and Asian dishes.

Think hot and sour soup to start, chicken breast with natural jus for main and a cheesecake for dessert. The Lido deck offers a buffet including Indian curries, Chinese congee and for breakfast, bacon and eggs. In the World Grill, behind the pool, guests can dine in the open area on salads, hot dogs and hamburgers.

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Dream’s cabins have been well designed – from interior cabins to suites in the exclusive Dream Palace. The marble and wood bathrooms are large and well designed. Guests in suite class and above have a tub, shower and two sinks. Etro brand toiletries are offered. Spa suites have a king-sized bed, a 60-inch TV, large three-seater sofa as well as a walk-in wardrobe and dressing table/desk. While the suites look as if they may be from a five-star European hotel, little touches including the floral motif carpet and koi paintings on the wall give it an Asian flair.

Guests in the suites have access to Dream Butlers who will book shore excursions and spa appointments as well as fetch you meals from the Dream Palace kitchen.

For VIP guests, the Dream Palace is the crème de la crème of accommodation.

Even compared with other cruise lines which have exclusive areas, it is a world of its own. Guests have their own lift,

CRUISE LINE: Dream Cruises VESSEL: Genting Dream STAR RATING: N/A PASSENGER CAPACITY: 3,352 TOTAL CREW: 1,999 PASSENGER DECKS: 14 ENTERED SERVICE: 2016 TONNAGE: 151,300 FACILITIES: 35 restaurants, bars, clubs and lounges, Zouk nightclub, swimming pool, four whirlpools, VIP Dream Palace, Crystal Life Asian and Western Spa, bowling alley, rock-climbing wall, six waterslides, boutiques, helipad, jogging track, gym, private karaoke rooms.

BOOKINGS: Two-night Weekend Escape cruise from Hong Kong is priced from $467 per person, twin share; five-night Vietnam Cruise from Nansha is priced from $1,303 per person, twin share. See dreamcruiseline.com

private bars, gym and pool area, as well as the Dream Palace Dining Rooms. There are two floors of 142 suites with the best being the Garden Penthouse, with its own private outdoor sitting area, two bedrooms, a separate living and dining room and a grand piano. Like Crystal, Dream Cruises has beautifully decorated sitting areas, filled with Chinese porcelain, European photographs and brass ornaments – a true meeting of East and West.

There are two spa areas. The Crystal Life Spa for Western treatments, and the Crystal Life Asian Spa. I was lucky enough to be offered a Deep Tissue Swedish Massage, which was performed by a slight

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SHIP REVIEW: GENTING DREAM and attractive girl from the Shandong province in China. Hu Ming, or “Angel” as she goes by to Westerners, was extremely polite, friendly and most of all, amazingly strong for such a tiny girl.

Guests who book a massage or facial have access to the male or female steam room and thermal bath. There is also a men’s barbershop and ladies’ hairdresser.

The Crystal Life Asian Spa’s biggest selling point is its reflexology centre, which boasts 100 chairs where guests can have their aches and pains rubbed away.

Next door, the Crystal Life Wellness area offers MRI scanning, as well as injectable fillers, anti-aging laser treatment and mesotherapy (a cosmetic treatment involving multiple superficial injections).

For the more adventurous guests, there is a rock-climbing wall, zipline and waterslides on deck 16 and 17. There is also mini-golf and a basketball court.

At the Little Pandas Kids Club on deck 16, kids can hang out and play under the supervision of Dream Cruises staff. The Little Pandas Club leads out to the pool area, which has four hot tubs surrounding the large pool. There is a shallow tiled area where you can sunbathe while you cool off.

There are lots of deck chairs and lounges so you can enjoy a cocktail in the sun.

Behind the waterslides, Zouk nightclub has an indoor and outdoor area where a DJ plays the latest tunes from around the world. The outdoor area has a stunning tiered

THE VERDICT Highs: The beautiful interiors are reminiscent of Crystal Mozart (sister company Crystal Cruises’ first river ship). It’s chic and elegant and there are plenty are bars and food outlets.

Lows: Smoking is allowed on balconies so if you’re a non-smoker, this may be a downside.

Best suited to: Multi-generational families – there’s plenty for the kids to do while parents and grandparents can watch, and cruisers who love to eat.

Clockwise from above: Penfolds Wine Vault; Crystal Life Spa Vitality Pool; Zouk Beach Bar

seating area and an ankle-deep pool where you can dance in front of the big screen.

Speaking of entertainment, there are shows every evening in the Zodiac Theatre with specially choreographed performances created for Genting Dream. Voyage of a Lover’s Dream tells the tale of a romance between a mermaid and astronaut – you’ll see the characters painted on the ship’s hull.

But the highlight is, without a doubt, the Dream Girls who perform an erotic but tasteful burlesque show every evening in the Silk Road restaurant.

Currently, Genting Dream has only one shore excursion available in each port. In Ho Chi Minh, the tour includes visits to a lacquer factory, the War Remnants Museum and lunch at a local restaurant.

In Danang, guides take you to the beach, Marble Mountain and to the UNESCO listed Hoi An. This beautiful French colonial town was the highlight.

It was buzzing with night markets, cafes,

restaurants and tailors who will take your measurements in the morning and have your garment ready in the evening. While it is very touristy, it has retained its charm.

Many of the streets are closed off to cars and you can either walk, rent a bike or go for a ride in a rickshaw to see the town.

If you’re not a coach-tour fan, you’re also able to step off the ship and explore the towns and cities by yourself. Keep in mind, the port in Ho Chi Minh is about an hour and a half drive from the centre of the city.

The Genting Dream staff are extremely friendly and enthusiastic, but like all new ships, there were some teething problems.

While the butlers were impeccable, fast and ready to fulfill your every wish, some of the waiters were slow. The English of some of the staff is limited, so if your Mandarin is not up to scratch, you may struggle to communicate complicated requests.

Overall, once the kinks have been worked out, it will be a dreamy experience. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: VIKING SEA

Clockwise from above: the atrium on Viking Sea; Belem Tower, Lisbon, Portugal; Plaza de EspaĂąa, Seville, Spain

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SHIP REVIEW: VIKING SEA

An itinerary from Barcelona to Bergen on the recently launched Viking Sea provides the chance to cruise around the rim of Western Europe. Brian Johnston steps aboard.

I

The

Viking Invasion

f you want to impress with a cruise, start with a bang: two days in Barcelona, with your ship docked under the shadow of ocean-gesturing Christopher Columbus on his tall column, and pedestrian drag La Rambla only a five-minute shuffle from port.

The famous tree-lined street plunges you straight into the heart of one of Europe’s most agreeable and quirky cities. I wear out a pair of shoes taking it in: Gaudí’s still-unfinished cathedral, designer boutiques, interesting architecture, family-filled parks and art-crammed museums.

Viking Sea finally sets sail south-westwards along Spain’s rocky coast, offering a quick day at sea to soothe the sightseeing legs before breaking out two more fabulous destinations: Granada (from the port of Málaga) and, the following day, Seville (from Cadiz). Both towns have Moorish palaces with orange-scented courtyards, whitewashed alleyways where pots of geraniums pop on patios, and architecture of monumental splendour draped in America’s gold.

Viking’s “Passage through Western Europe” is essentially a 15-day repositioning cruise that takes the 930-passenger Viking Sea from the Mediterranean to the Norwegian fjords, but it goes far beyond normally indifferent repositioning itineraries, visiting five countries and 10 ports of impressive variety. The ship skirts Europe’s western edge from the hot coast of Spain to the misty meadows of Normandy and into the fjords of Norway: bacalao (salted cod) to baguettes, Portuguese navigators to Viking raiders, Gothic cathedrals to art-nouveau apartments.

On day six, the early-morning approach to Lisbon is lovely as Viking Sea sails past guardian fortresses into a long bay and up the wide Tagus River, docking under the tumbling houses of the city’s central Alfama district. The day falls into a typical Viking pattern: long port calls allow an inclusive orientation tour in the morning that provides cruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: VIKING SEA

Clockwise from left: pool deck on Viking Sea; Chateau de Ravalet, Normandy, France; The World Café Viking Sea; Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Viking 0cean Cruises VESSEL: Viking Sea STAR RATING: N/A PASSENGER CAPACITY: 930 TOTAL CREW: 545 PASSENGER DECKS: 9 ENTERED SERVICE: 2016 TONNAGE: 47,800 FACILITIES: Several dining options and bars, including Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant and The Chef’s Table, Wintergarden, lounge, spa, fitness centre, cinema, theatre, two pools, hot tub and sports deck.

BOOKINGS: 15-day Passage through Western Europe cruise on Viking Sea, departing Barcelona April 16, 2017, is priced from $7,099 per person twin share. See vikingcruises.com.au

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passengers with a general overview, and there’s ample free time afterwards for individual wandering through cobbled squares where cafe conversation bubbles and gold-laden churches loom.

Alternatively, passengers can select from optional tours at extra cost. There are eight choices in Lisbon alone, ranging from more in-depth looks at the city to surrounding sights such as medieval hilltop Óbidos, pilgrim destination Fátima or the rococo Palace of Queluz.

Often on this journey I think the highlights are now in our wake, only to be reinvigorated by more port pleasures.

Porto, adjacent to the northern Portuguese port of Leixões, is a wonderful town that plunges down the side of a gorge to the Douro River in cascades of yellow and orange houses. Blue-tiled scenes from Portuguese history decorate church and train-station facades, and the riverfront buzzes with bars where locals and tourists mingle in the sunshine, sipping wine produced on the Douro’s banks upstream.

The next day, Santiago de Compostella is just as wonderful, though quite different: an austerely beautiful town of honeyed buildings clustering around a whopping cathedral where pilgrims shuffle.

A day at sea takes us from Spain to northern France, allowing passengers to further explore the ship, with its chic, Scandinavian minimalism and light-filled spaces. Viking Sea’s spa features a grotto where – improbably – artificial snow falls for a delightful, skin-tingling loiter before plunging into the hot tub. The ship’s stern features a cantilevered infinity pool

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SHIP REVIEW: VIKING SEA permitting a float between sea and sky. But my favourite place to linger is the indooroutdoor Wintergarden adjacent to the main pool, where a retractable roof lets in floods of light and waiters serve afternoon scones laden with cream.

Somewhere in the night, the Atlantic is left behind and we sail into Cherbourg on the English Channel. It’s the magic of cruising that we’ve moved from robust Spain to green, cow-chewed northern France with so little effort. Normandy is about exploring gardens and castles and the unexpectedly lovely port city of Le Havre, from which many passengers take an excursion to Paris.

Our next port of call, Southampton has me in one of those pleasant dithers. Many passengers head on an inclusive transfer for sightseeing in London, but there are also tours to Winchester, Windsor, Salisbury and Stonehenge. Finally I opt for Portsmouth and its fabulous naval dockyards, which display the Tudor ship Mary Rose and Admiral Nelson’s famous warship HMS Victory. It’s one of the highlights of this cruise so rich in maritime

history, though I’m just as entranced by the Viking history centre at Haugesund, our first port of call in Norway, where timbered houses crowd the fjord’s edge.

On our final day, Viking Star zigzags through pine-topped islands as I sit in the Explorer Lounge, whose vast windows frame Bergen’s fjord-bound setting.

Bergen is the gateway to the fjords and an elegant city in its own right. It’s both Norway’s former medieval capital and its cultural heart, as the birthplace of romantic composer Edvard Grieg, whose house is visited on an optional shore excursion.

On the inclusive tour, get a glimpse of Bergen’s trading past along Bryggen Wharf, lined by cheerfully gabled houses and lively bars. Cruise, cargo and fishing ships still keep the harbour busy.

We’re a world away from Barcelona. The northern light is long and low, sea breezes nippy and mountains appear like cardboard cut-outs on the horizon. This is another Europe, yet with cultural echoes resonating all the way back to Barcelona thanks to the unifying wonder of the sea, and the goods and ideas traded across it for centuries.

THE VERDICT Highs: A new ship of elegant Scandinavian design, friendly service, excellent food and an ethos that focuses on destinations, with quick disembarkation times and long port stays.

Lows: Although unusual in being inclusive, daily shore excursions move at a slow pace and offer only the most general overview.

Best suited to: Couples aged 40 and above. There are no amenities specifically for children.

SYDNEY

CRUISE SHIP PARKING SENSIBLE, AFFORDABLE AND RELIABLE PARKING SERVICE FOR SYDNEY'S CRUISE PASSENGERS Just drive to our parking facility, leave your keys with one of our friendly staff and we will have you boarding in no time.

Once you return, give us a call and one of our drivers will be straight over to pick you up.

BOOK NOW

02 9693 1919 For any bookings over 7 days please call us for better pricing! cruisepassenger.com.au WWW.SYDNEYCRUISESHIPPARKING.COM.AU

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SHIP REVIEW: HEBRIDEAN SKY

History, opera, Mediterranean sunshine… Sue Bryant soaks it all up as she cruises around Sicily on one of Noble Caledonia’s intimate ships.

A

arias ISLAND

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small-ship cruise around Sicily, a chance of late summer sunshine and three operatic performances in one week. As a fan of all of the above, I couldn’t have asked for more.

The voyage in question was with Noble Caledonia, which has a long-standing association with the London Festival Opera (LFO).

LFO singers have performed on river cruises, land tours and on several ocean-going ships and the company has a loyal following of fans who book for the music first and the itinerary second. The idea this time was that we would explore Sicily and Sardinia by day and, at night, attend recitals in beautiful palaces ashore given by four singers and a pianist, led by tenor Philip Blake-Jones, founder of the LFO. All the performers had impressive singing pedigrees, having performed in top venues worldwide and with leading opera companies. I knew this would be good.

Hebridean Sky was waiting for us in Valletta, Malta, tiny against the towering ramparts of the city and dwarfed by a vast MSC ship. “That’s us,” joked Chantal, one of our tour leaders, pointing at the larger vessel as we approached the harbour. Everybody laughed nervously.

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SHIP REVIEW: HEBRIDEAN SKY

Duomo di Siracusa, Syracuse; members of the London Festival Opera at the Palazzo Valguarnera-Gangi

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SHIP REVIEW: HEBRIDEAN SKY Noble Caledonia’s passengers are adventurous, small-ship types and the sense of relief when our smart little ship came into view from the bus was palpable.

October in the Med is still warm enough to eat on deck and the wine flowed that night as friendships were struck up and Hebridean Sky cast her lines and set a course for Sicily. Our group was mostly Brits, most the far side of 60 and without exception, well-travelled and cultured.

There were a few Australians among us on this trip, but when the ship is chartered

by APT, which it is for several weeks of the year, the passenger contingent is almost entirely Australians and New Zealanders, with tweaks made such as more New World wines on the list and the inevitable Vegemite on the breakfast buffet.

These culture-focused cruises are not for slackers. Our schedule was packed, with the included tours departing most mornings at 8.15am, but it brought rich rewards.

The Villa Romana del Casale, a fourth century hunting lodge, displays the most dazzling Roman mosaics I’ve ever seen, room after room in intricate detail of 2,000-yearold hunting scenes, including tigers and elephants, and the famous depiction of Roman girls in bikinis playing ball.

In Syracuse, we strolled around the vast Neapolis Archaeological Park, while in Taormina, we clambered over the stone benches of the mighty Greco-Roman amphitheatre, Mount Etna smouldering in the distance.

The first operatic performance was a recital in the Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco in Syracuse, a ravishingly beautiful private home tucked into the cobbled back streets of the old city.

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Due to a last minute hitch – the grand piano that had been hired was too heavy to hoist up the stone steps into the appointed salon – the concert ended up taking place in the courtyard.

A perfect night under a starry sky, but as the singers launched into a glorious aria, a busker started up outside the gate, belting out That’s Amore on his accordion.

The rather grumpy baron, our host, rolled his eyes in a leave-this-to-me gesture and stepped outside. The din stopped, midchord, which made me wonder what fate had befallen the accordionist.

Some days I broke free from the sightseeing. On a lovely, sunny day in Palermo, pink-and-white stalls were being set up along Via Maqueda for an ice-cream festival, selling organic lime

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Noble Caledonia VESSEL: Hebridean Sky STAR RATING: 3.5 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 118 TOTAL CREW: 70 PASSENGER DECKS: 5 ENTERED SERVICE: 1991, refurbished 2016 TONNAGE: 4,200 FACILITIES: Library, massage room, bar, dining room, outdoor dining, sunbathing deck.

BOOKINGS: Eight-night Islands of Italy cruise on Hebridean Sky in September 2017 is priced from £3,995 ($6,595) per person twin share. The next LFO cruise is the 12-night Glories of Russia in September 2018, from £4,495 ($7,418). noble-caledonia.co.uk

Clockwise from above: Mosaics, Villa Romana del Casale, Sicily; Palermo, Sicily; library and Lido deck on Hebridean Sky; amphitheatre, Taormina

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SHIP REVIEW: HEBRIDEAN SKY

granita and gelato including liquorice and pistachio, studded with nuts. I spent a happy afternoon wandering round this gorgeous and most underrated city, all wide boulevards and grand palazzi with crumbling, bombed-out facades sandwiched between them, still waiting to be repaired, seven decades after the war.

In keeping with the operatic theme, I joined a behind-the-scenes tour of the Teatro Massimo, Palermo’s incongruously large opera house, the third-biggest in Europe after those in Vienna and Paris.

And then I gave in to the gelato; great dollops of pistachio and tiramisu.

Palermo’s concert was an evening of Bellini, Rossini and Verdi, with the singers donning full 19th century costume, Charlotte, the mezzo and Abigail, the soprano, in swaying crinolines and swagged silks. The Palazzo Valguarnera-Gangi, where the event took place, is an absolute stunner of a baroque pile, with one gilded, mirrored, chandeliered salon leading to the next, candles flickering on a romantic terrace with prosecco chilling in buckets for after the performance. The whole evening was magical; the setting, the glorious

singing, the rather glamorous after-party, where we sampled arancini (a Sicilian speciality, fried rice balls with cheese inside), sipped prosecco and chatted to the principessa whose family owned the palace.

Our own home, Hebridean Sky, was less ornate but extremely comfortable. The ship has just had a big facelift and is all polished wood panelling and shining brass. There’s a sunny library, a bit of sunbathing space on deck, a lounge for lectures and a bar with a piano. You sit where you want for meals, try to remember everybody’s name, enjoy a chat about the day’s events and then have a repeat conversation at the next meal.

Afternoons at sea weren’t for lying around. Philip Blake-Jones gave a fascinating talk on the life of Giuseppe Verdi and most entertainingly, as the ship sailed from Messina, laid on a music quiz.

Not exactly your everyday cruise ship trivia; instead, there were questions such as “How many women did Don Giovanni seduce in Spain?” and “What is the note of the bottom string on a cello?”.

We were treated to one final performance, on board this time, featuring lighter numbers and bits of operetta, not least a

spot of Gilbert and Sullivan. Like the other concerts, it received a standing ovation.

I can see why people book for the opera; it’s a real treat, having such intimate performances and mixing with the performers all week, while the magnificent settings were the perfect backdrop for each event. Other locations for opera cruises have included the Danube and Italy’s gorgeous Amalfi Coast. I’ll certainly be back.

THE VERDICT Highs: The in-depth tours. Beautiful, spacious and luxurious cabins, good food, free-flowing wine with meals. Excellent library and friendly crew.

Lows: No pool or hot tub.

Best suited to: Over-50s, culture-lovers, couples and singles.

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AWARD WINNING LUXURY YOU DESERVE This year we are celebrating 30 years in the business.

vineyards of France and Portugal; and to the wonders

From our humble beginnings in 1986, we are now

of beautiful South East Asia, travelling on the mighty

recognised as one of the world’s leading luxury cruise

Mekong and the mystical Irrawaddy.

companies - passionate about providing the very best luxury cruising experiences around the globe.

In 2018, we are launching Scenic Eclipse - the World’s First Discovery Yacht, which will take guests to places

We take you to European destinations you’ve always

previously thought inaccessible. Discover a whole

dreamt of. From majestic castles in Germany to the

new world.

;dg i]Z Ð[i] XdchZXji^kZ nZVg Scenic’s luxury river cruise line has been recognised in the Cruise Passenger Readers’ Choice Awards

138 128 SCENIC.COM.AU Visit scenic.com.au/agents for your nearest Scenic Agent

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RIVER REVIEW

Readers' Choice

AWARDS

2016 W

INNERS

FROM THE PUBLISHER Bigger, bolder and even more comprehensive – YOUR Readers’ Choice Awards have produced some sensational results.

W

ow! We knew you loved to tell us about your cruise journeys, but this year’s Cruise Passenger Readers’ Choice Awards has received its biggest reaction ever.

Some 4,000 readers – a record in the 20 years that Cruise Passenger has been published – took the time to fill out our questionnaire rating lines for everything from food and service to activities.

More than a million Australians cruised this year – and we still hold the record for the highest penetration by population anywhere in the world.

What’s really impressive – and we’ve heard this time and again from visiting cruise line bosses – is the incredible

engagement Australians have with their favourite ships.

That’s why these are the awards the industry looks out for. These views don’t come from peers – they are the genuine and constructive verdicts of you, the passengers their businesses depend on.

There is no bigger contribution you can make to help your fellow passengers get the best service on better ships than voting in the awards the industry takes note of.

So a big thank you from us – and the winners! – to all of you for taking part.

In the pages that follow, you will find Australia’s finest in ocean, adventure, river and small ships.

The results are a tribute to the men and women who work so hard to make our holidays great.

Want to continue to contribute all year round?

Rate Your Ship, our online review system, allows readers to send herograms and brickbats to cruising’s best and worst, at cruisepassenger.com.au. This continues to help our cruise industry improve.

Share your views, and we’ll select the best review of the month and send a bottle of French bubbles to the reviewer.

Smooth sailing!

– Peter Lynch, Publisher cruisepassenger.com.au

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READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS 2016

What we say: Great ships, great entertainment, great food and great spa facilities are just the tip of the iceberg when cruising with Princess.

Cruise on any of their five ships sailing from Australia (or the full fleet of 18 sailing around the world) and you’ll be treated like royalty from start to finish. Princess wants you to “come back new”, but we think you won’t want to come back at all.

What you say: “We know if we travel with Princess Cruises we are going to enjoy ourselves and relax in comfort, with fabulous food, world-class entertainment and a perfect crew.”

Sue Read What they say: “We’re thrilled to be recognised by Cruise Passenger readers as the best ocean cruise line for the second year in a row.

We pride ourselves on providing exceptional service and we’re always looking for ways to enrich our guests’ cruise experience both on board and off our ships, by providing meaningful experiences and opportunities to relax, explore and connect. We’re delighted to know so many Cruise Passenger readers enjoy our cruises and are coming back rich with new memories.” Stuart Allison, Vice President Australia & New Zealand

NOTABLE MENTION ROYAL CARIBBEAN

PRINCESS CRUISES

BEST OCEAN CRUISE LINE OVERALL PRINCESS CRUISES

ROYAL CARIBBEAN

Australia’s two favourite cruise lines have taken out this category. Our readers love the bells and whistles on Royal Caribbean’s huge ships, plus the fact that so many of them sail from Australia. Royal Cab is a firm favourite and we all look forward to sailing with them for many years to come.

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READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS 2016

BEST LUXURY CRUISE LINE SILVERSEA

SILVERSEA

What we say: 2016 makes it two years in a row for Silversea, your favourite luxury cruise line. The line has just begun a fleetwide $227 million refurb program and its most luxurious ship, Silver Muse, is just months away from launch. As well as consistently setting the bar high for onboard experience, Silversea is an innovator when it comes to itineraries. In 2018, Silver Spirit heads to Cape Town for the line’s first ever “safari cruises” up the east coast of Africa, just one of 300 new ports for the line that year.

What you say: “Silversea defines ultra luxury. You just can’t do better than them.” Emily Lanzillotti What they say: “We are thrilled to be named Best Luxury Cruise Line for the second year in a row. We are honoured to have the opportunity to create lasting memories for all our guests, enabling them to sail to all seven continents and explore their dream destinations, all in luxury and comfort.

I would like to thank our guests and key travel partners who voted for us.

We look forward to an exciting year ahead with the introduction of our flagship, Silver Muse.” Amber Wilson, General Manager & Director Sales/ Marketing, Asia Pacific

NOTABLE MENTION CRYSTAL CRUISES

Their ships may be small but they are big on luxury. With a new yacht, river ships, a private airline and a groundbreaking expedition ship, Crystal Cruises looks set for global domination.

Readers' Choice

AWARDS

CRYSTAL CRUISES

2016

WI

NNERS

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READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS 2016

BEST PREMIUM CRUISE LINE PRINCESS CRUISES

What they say: “After 15 years cruising from Australian shores, we’re honoured by the continued recognition of Cruise Passenger readers as the best premium cruise line. The past 12 months have been huge for us – we’ve launched new SHARE by Curtis Stone restaurants, enhanced our entertainment offering and even brought a new ship – Emerald Princess – Down Under, so this acknowledgement is a wonderful endorsement of the Princess offering.” Stuart Allison, Vice President Australia & New Zealand

PRINCESS CRUISES

What we say: As your favourite line on the ocean, Princess Cruises was a shoo-in for this category. The line has just brought one of the largest and youngest ships in its fleet, the 3,000-passenger Emerald Princess, Down Under for the 2016 season.

We can also expect two brand new, purpose-built Princess ships to be launched in 2019 and 2020. Plus, they use Aussie dollars on board, sail from a huge range of local ports and have one of our local favourites – Curtis Stone – in the kitchen.

What you say: “Princess Cruises gives me the ultimate, customised holiday – my time, my way. It fulfills their promise – I come back new.”

Deborah Gallon

HAL is just pipped at the post again this year. With the 2016 launch of the brand new, high-tech Koningsdam, now sailing around Europe and the Caribbean, Holland America has become a force to be reckoned with – expect to see much more of this line in the future.

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NOTABLE MENTION HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

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READERS’ CHOICE AWARDS 2016

BEST MID-RANGE CRUISE LINE ROYAL CARIBBEAN

ROYAL CARIBBEAN

What we say: It’s the big ships for the big win in this category. Royal Caribbean carries more Australian guests than any other line, with five huge ships cruising in our waters this season. Local cruisers are counting down the days until Ovation of the Seas sails into Sydney Harbour. It will be the newest, largest and most technologically advanced ship we’ve ever seen here and it’s all part of Royal Cab’s commitment to setting new standards.

What you say: “Royal Caribbean never fails to please. They have beautifully designed ships, wonderful destination choices, and offer top quality service and cuisine!”

Jenny Menke What they say: “We are thrilled to be honoured in this highly competitive category. With 25 of the world’s most innovative cruise ships sailing around the world, including some of the newest and largest ships like Ovation of the Seas and Harmony of the Seas, it is fantastic to be recognised by the readers who love to holiday with us.

On behalf of Royal Caribbean, we thank you for your support.”

Adam Armstrong, managing director, Royal Caribbean Australia & NZ

NOTABLE MENTION P&O CRUISES

The original Australian cruise line is still a favourite with our readers. The launch of Pacific Aria and Pacific Eden this year, and the two new ships over the horizon, show P&O is committed to local passengers.

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BEST ADVENTURE CRUISE LINE APT

What they say: “We are thrilled that Cruise Passenger readers think highly enough of APT to vote us Best Adventure Cruise Line for the second year running. This accolade is especially meaningful to us, given how knowledgeable Cruise Passenger readers are about what’s on offer in cruising around the world. At APT, we are focussed on providing guests with unforgettable travel experiences.

Our small ships, with itineraries that venture where larger liners cannot go, are at the forefront of this.” Debra Fox, Executive General Manager Global Sales and Marketing, APT Travel Group

APT

What we say: When you want to go off the grid, you want APT to take you there. APT’s go-anywhere fleet shows you don’t have to sacrifice style and comfort to take off on an adventure. With just 100 or so passengers on board, you won’t need to share any of the incredible destinations with a large crowd.

Add in extras like overnight stays to experience a destination at night and an endlessly knowledgeable expedition team and you’ll be giving Shackleton a run for his money.

What you say: “APT offers the highest level of personal attention and has meticulously crafted the most unique and in-depth itineraries.” Andrew Stevenson

Captain Cook Cruises is proof that when you do one small thing really well, it’s almost impossible to beat.

With just one ship, Reef Endeavour, sailing through the islands of Fiji this little line offers an authentic experience that keeps our readers coming back every year.

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NOTABLE MENTION CAPTAIN COOK CRUISES

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BEST FAMILY CRUISE LINE P&O CRUISES

What we say: Smaller ships, bigger cabins and edgy activities are a great mix for family cruising. Enter P&O Cruises, offering Aussie families all this and more. With two new ships launched in the past 12 months and two more on the way, our local line is on track to take on the big internationals. Grab the kids, grab your bags and grab a great deal.

P&O CRUISES

What you say: “P&O is family-friendly affordability on the ocean with entertainment, fine dining and great excursions to be had.” Julie Bennett What they say: “As the nation’s homegrown cruise line, we’ve been helping Australian families holiday at sea for more than 80 years. More than a third of our guests are family groups, so it’s wonderful that we’ve been named the best family cruise line. From our great kids’ clubs to the largest adventure park at sea, we have plenty of exciting activities to ensure a memorable cruise for all the family. We’re promising plenty more family fun to come with the launch of new waterparks and slides on Pacific Dawn and our latest ship Pacific Explorer in 2017, as well as Australia’s first virtual reality experience at sea.”

Sture Myrmell, President

NOTABLE MENTION CARNIVAL

There’s a good reason Carnival calls them “Fun Ships”. From interconnecting staterooms to 24hour ice-cream bars and topsy-turvy waterslides, Carnival has families in mind every step of the way.

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BEST RIVER CRUISE LINE OVERALL SCENIC

What we say: With four incredible new river ships launched in 2016, it’s no surprise that Scenic has jumped to the top in this tightly fought race.

Scenic Spirit and Scenic Aura launched in Southeast Asia, Scenic Azure started cruising on the up-and-coming Douro River in Portugal and Scenic Amber joined the ever-popular central European routes. It brings Scenic’s fleet to 15 ships, dedicated to taking travellers along the world’s top rivers with a distinctive Australian flair.

What they say: “We are thrilled to win ‘Best River Cruise Line Overall’ and to be picking up one of the top river cruise awards for the fifth consecutive year. We could not do this without the support of our loyal past guests who we are hugely grateful to for taking the time to vote for us yet again. We pride ourselves on the quality of our river cruising product and this award is testament to our hardworking teams around the world that continue to deliver above and beyond for our guests.”

Michelle Black, GM Sales & Marketing

SCENIC

What you say: “Scenic thinks of everything; interaction with fantastic crew, included complimentary food and drinks, great destinations. The perfect holiday!” Anne Daniel

NOTABLE MENTION APT

APT

It’s great to see two Australian river cruise lines take out the top spots.

Our readers love APT’s adventurous itineraries, immersive culinary program (headed up by Luke Nguyen) and a constantly expanding fleet – it’s easy to see why this line is such a favourite.

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BEST LUXURY RIVER CRUISE LINE SCENIC What we say: If you’re going to do luxe, you’ve got to do it right. Scenic celebrated its 30th anniversary this year and in that time it has evolved from a no-frills Australian coach-tour operator to a leader in world luxury.

A sleek, high-end brand redesign in 2015 and a host of category-leading launches in 2016 have kept it right on top of this category.

SCENIC

What you say: “Scenic is luxury from start to finish. From luxurious cabins and gorgeous balconies to beautifully presented meals and excellent staff and crew.” Anne McGreevy What they say: “To win the ‘Best Luxury River Cruise Line’ for the second year running is a great honour, and to be acknowledged by those who travel with us is what really counts. In 2016, we launched four new luxury river cruise ships in three new destinations plus announced the launch of Scenic Eclipse. We are looking forward to what the future holds, and sharing our signature brand of all-inclusive luxury on board our first ocean cruise ship in 2018.” Michelle Black, GM Sales & Marketing

NOTABLE MENTION APT

APT has been introducing Australian cruisers to a new world of luxury river cruising, offering exquisite ships in destinations such as India and Africa. You love them because they think outside the box, but never compromise on quality.

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What we say: When culinary legend Jacques Pepin is at the helm of your onboard dining program, you’ve almost got this category in the (piping) bag. Oceania Cruises is a first-time winner of this award and it’s a solid recognition of the incredible – and incredibly delicious – things they do in the galley. Jacques cooks up gastronomic wizardry in a relaxed and intimate atmosphere, for guests to dine where they want, when they want. And the best part about it?

Every meal is included in your fare.

What you say: “Oceania provides excellent service, quality product and fabulous food. All without appearing to be over the top, so passengers can just relax and enjoy the experience of cruising.” Mandy Woodstock What they say: “Emerging as the winner for ‘Best Food’ in Cruise Passenger’s celebrated Readers’ Choice Awards epitomises Oceania’s unrelenting commitment to delighting guests with the finest cuisine at sea. This award is testament to Oceania’s food-inspired ingenuity, and we are thrilled our guests continue to respond to our culinary offering so positively.”

Steve Odell, SVP & Managing Director Asia Pacific, Norwegian Cruise Line Holdings

NOTABLE MENTION SCENIC

OCEANIA CRUISES

BEST FOR FOOD OCEANIA CRUISES

SCENIC

It’s fantastic to have a river cruise line appear at the top of this category for the first time. Unlike their ocean counterparts, river ships can make use of fresh local produce, shopping at markets or providors along the way. Scenic’s expert team will have your mouth watering at every meal.

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BEST FOR SPA/WELLNESS PRINCESS CRUISES What we say: Princess continues to offer something a little different.

No other cruise line encourages you to bathe in a Japanese-style onsen au naturel – and it seems to really appeal to the adventurous Aussie cruiser. They’re serious about you coming back new in mind and body, so you can be scrubbed, steamed and primped to within an inch of your life.

PRINCESS CRUISES

What you say: “From all the cruises I’ve been on I’ve found Princess Cruises the best for food, entertainment, destination choices and onboard actives. And their spa is incredible!” Kate What they say: “At Princess our focus is very much on helping our guests come back new and our wonderful Lotus Spa and Sanctuary retreats play a big role. Our spas are designed to be a rejuvenating and inviting escape, so we’re very pleased Cruise Passenger readers agree and have voted our spas as the best at sea.” Stuart Allison, Vice President Australia & New Zealand

NOTABLE MENTION ROYAL CARIBBEAN

On board Royal Caribbean ships you can refresh with everything from a sunrise yoga class and a Himalayan body scrub all the way up to a little Botox or fillers for that “just back from holiday” glow. Huge spas, expansive treatment menus, qualified therapists and state-of-the-art-fitness centres make for an invigorating cruise anywhere in the world.

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BEST FOR ENTERTAINMENT PRINCESS CRUISES What we say: Princess added some serious razzle dazzle to its entertainment line up this year with the addition of Broadway songster Stephen Schwartz. The American composer (who is behind hit shows including Godspell and Wicked) created a brand new show just for the line that premiered on Emerald Princess when it arrived in Australia in November. Called Magic to Do, the show is a mix of stage classics and new material staged by world-class performers. Bound to get your toes tapping.

What they say: “We’ve introduced some fabulous entertainment offerings over the past 12 months, with the launch of Magic to Do by award-winning Broadway producer Stephen Schwartz as well as the incredibly popular The Voice of the Ocean competition. We’ve even hosted an encore performance of our popular Travelling Film Festival at Sea, so we’re excited to hear our onboard entertainment is hitting the right note with our guests.”

Stuart Allison, Vice President Australia & New Zealand

PRINCESS CRUISES

What you say: “A cruise on a Princess ship is always very enjoyable. The staff are always welcoming and happy, the food is delicious and the entertainment is exceptional.” Alan Chimes

NOTABLE MENTION ROYAL CARIBBEAN

ROYAL CARIBBEAN

Royal Caribbean is justifiably proud of its Broadway entertainment line up and is the only cruise line to bring Tony Award-winning musicals on board. No other line can offer Cats, Mamma Mia, We Will Rock You or Saturday Night Fever every day of the week.

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BEST FOR ACTIVITIES ROYAL CARIBBEAN What we say: Surfing? Check.

Skydiving? Check. Bumper cars?

Check. In the wonderful world of Royal Caribbean, just about anything is possible. Their huge fleet of recordbreaking ships are floating funparks, stocked with a mind-boggling array of exciting and challenging activities.

ROYAL CARIBBEAN

What you say: “Royal Caribbean offers a most exciting, innovative and unforgettable holiday for the whole family. We loved the ship from the first to the last moment on it. Thank you!” Barbara Diatchenko What they say: “We’re very proud of our 46-year legacy of firsts at sea and pushing the boundaries for what is imaginable on a cruise ship, like surfing, sky diving, rock climbing, bumper cars, ice skating, ziplining, and more. I’m so pleased our incredible array of activities – many of which can only be found on Royal – are loved by the readers as much as they are by us. It’s an honour to receive this award.” Adam Armstrong, managing director, Royal Caribbean Australia & NZ

NOTABLE MENTION CARNIVAL

Two words: Green. Thunder. Both of Carnival’s Australian ships, Carnival Spirit and Legend, boast the Green Thunder, the steepest waterslide at sea that rockets passengers along at up to 65 kilometres an hour. Once you’ve stopped screaming, try the rest of the waterpark, mini-golf, basketball and more.

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BEST CRUISE DESTINATION SOUTH PACIFIC What we say: Aquamarine water, white beaches, gently swaying palm trees – the South Pacific fits anyone’s definition of paradise. And Australians love it. More than one third of all ocean cruises we take are to the South Pacific, with hundreds of thousands of us pouring into gorgeous island nations such as Fiji, Vanuatu, New Caledonia, Samoa and Tahiti. The South Pacific is good for families, couples or groups of friends.

It’s easy to get to, with multiple ships sailing from Australian ports year round. There’s a reason people return to the region year after year.

What you say: “The islands I visited had interesting cultures, unique scenery, incredible sea life and were a great place to relax and try some local food.” Carolyn Mason

NOTABLE MENTION EUROPEAN RIVERS

Never say that our readers aren’t varied cruisers. A world away from the sunny shores of the South Pacific, the European Rivers are your second favourite destination.

From Amsterdam in the east all the way across France, Germany and Austria and into eastern Europe, river cruising is its own brand of serene, slow paced style.

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BEST INDIVIDUAL AGENT BICTON TRAVEL, WA

“What an honour to be acknowledged for the fourth year in a row by cruisers and readers of the only Australian magazine dedicated to cruising. While the industry accolades we have received reflect the professionalism and industry relationships we have built over the years, this award reflects truly on our team of outstanding cruise specialists. It is the rapport that they have with their clients that sees such a high repeat and referral ratio with large numbers of our client assuming the vocational role of Bicton Travel Brand Ambassadors, mentioning our name far and wide across Australia. Thank you to the readers for this tremendous award and congratulations to our exceptional team in Western Australia!” Carole Smethurst, Founder and Director, Bicton Travel.

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BEST RIVER CRUISE OPERATOR

BEST ADVENTURE CRUISE LINE

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BEST ADVENTURE CRUISE LINE

Cast off from the crowds Southeast Asia Adventure APT is overwhelmed to be recognised as the Best Adventure Cruise Line in the Cruise Passenger Readers’ Choice Awards. Embark on a voyage of discovery with an APT Expedition Cruise. Our ships have the freedom to wander where the adventure draws them. Discover some of the world’s most fascinating regions, beyond the realm of ordinary travel. Board a Zodiac to explore remote isles, formidable wildlife, and unique ecosystems.

AUSTRALIAN GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY EXPEDITION – enjoy the expertise of an Australian Geographic Society host, photographer Chris Bray EXPEDITION TEAM – with up to ten team members, our expert English-speaking guides provide insight into the wildlife, geology, culture and history of each destination you visit ALL-INCLUSIVE TOURING – tailored shore excursions, Wi-Fi, all meals, tipping, airport transfers, port charges and beverages^ are all included in the price

Manila to Darwin 17 days from $14,795* per person, twin share $500 AIR CREDIT PER COUPLE*

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Visit aptouring.com.au/SoutheastAsia or call 1300 205 285 or see your local travel agent *Conditions apply. Prices are per person (pp), AUD, twin share and include port charges. Prices are correct as at 14 November 2016 but may fluctuate if surcharges, fees, taxes or currency change. Prices based on NOBCMD17: 24 June 2017 (Standard Suite Forward). ALL OFFERS: Offers are strictly limited and available until sold out. Offers are not combinable, available on new bookings only and subject to availability. Offers may be withdrawn at any time. A limited number of offers are available on set departures. DEPOSITS & FINAL PAYMENTS: A non-refundable deposit of $3,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. Final payment is due 100 days prior to departure. AIR CREDIT: Airfare credit of $250 pp is available when booking NOBCMD17, departing 24 June 2017. International airfare must be booked by APT. Credit cannot be redeemed for cash and is not transferrable. ^Complimentary beverages are only served while onboard your cruise and do not include French Champagne, premium spirits or selected wines. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation #A10825. APT5084

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PAPUA NEW GUINEA BUTLERS AT SEA CRUISE PHOTOGRAPHY NORTHWEST PASSAGE VENICE BY BIKE AND BARGE MARK BEST ON GENTING CHINA’S THREE GORGES ASIANINSPIRED SPAS TRAVEL STYLE AIRLINE REVIEW HOTEL REVIEW DESTINATION: SHANGHAI

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CRUISE PLUS: PNG

Locals welcome Pacific Eden in the PNG’s Trobriand Islands

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adventure playground AUSTRALIA’S NEW

P&O an expedition cruise company? Its sailing to Papua New Guinea is a true adventure, writes Tim Faircloth.

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ust one sea day and two nights of cruising separates Cairns from Papua New Guinea. But it could be a thousand miles and another world. We are on board Pacific Eden for a journey that is very different from the regular P&O fare. You could call it “adventure lite” – a cruise close to home with the feel of an expedition.

Having cruised the Pacific many times, a sevennight itinerary from Cairns, taking in Alotau (Milne Bay), Kitava, Kiriwina and the Conflict Islands, had me Googling just about everything there was to know about PNG. The majority of search results focused on local unrest and violence caused by the “rascals” in the larger towns and the capital Port Moresby. While this unpleasant reputation is justified for many places in PNG, it soon became apparent the remote Trobriand Islands were quite different.

P&O has invested heavily in exploring these isolated eastern islands, providing ports with the necessary infrastructure to welcome its ships and passengers.

Cairns is a fabulous port to embark from. The new Cruise Terminal is an easy 15-minute ($25) taxi ride from the airport. And the recently refurbished Pacific Eden is the perfect fit – not too large, with a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere.

The passengers were not your usual P&O crowd.

Still fun loving, they were slightly older and more adventurous cruisers. Even the onboard activities were different, with the almost obligatory bingo replaced with a lecture on PNG culture from an onboard expert.

In Alotau, some passengers joined a tour relating to the historic Battle of Milne Bay. The majority however, headed to the heavily promoted Cultural Festival, a staged show with local dancers and tribal canoe warriors set up in a gated compound just out of town.

Alotau town is small and it’s an easy 25-minute walk from the small cruise port to see the main street, local market and a few shops, wedged between hills covered in dense jungle and the open waters of Milne Bay. I was the first person off the ship and spent four hours simply walking around the area. As the tour buses were yet to drop any other passengers in town, I was a novelty and was approached by dozens of people just wanting to say hello.

The next day, we anchored off the small low-lying island of Kitava, in the Trobriand Islands. We were tendered ashore over turquoise water to a coral-fringed dock, escorted by a pod of dolphins.

I had read a lot about how untouched and isolated from Western society the Kitava people are – just one generation removed from head hunting and traces of cannibalism.

The locals welcomed us with frangipani flowers and warm smiles, far removed the images of head-hunting savages or the cannibals responsible for the human skulls and bones that can be seen in the island’s “Cave of the Last Cannibalist”.

Just off shore lies a tiny uninhabited island, and villagers with brightly painted outrigger canoes lined the beach, eagerly waiting to collect 5 kina ($2.50) per person to take us across the aqua marine lagoon for a day of swimming and snorkelling.

A word of warning though, these handmade canoes are quite basic. We saw one capsize, requiring a passing ship’s tender to rescue eight passengers. On our return journey, one of our two crew fell overboard, swamping our canoe. Some frantic bailing got us back to the beach where locals were selling woven crafts, wood carvings and shells. cruisepassenger.com.au

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FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: P&O Cruise Australia VESSEL: Pacific Eden STAR RATING: 3.5 PASSENGER CAPACITY: 1,260 TOTAL CREW: 560

Clockwise from above: locals canoeing, Alotau; village huts, Kiriwina ; sign to cannibals’ cave, Kitava; outrigger canoe, Kitava; fish lunch, Kiriwina; airport, Conflict Islands; decorated school girls, Kiriwina

PASSENGER DECKS: 10 ENTERED SERVICE: 1994 (refurbished 2015) TONNAGE: 55,819 FACILITIES: Waterfront restaurant, specialty dining including Angelo’s (Italian), Salt Grill by Luke Mangan and Dragon Lady (Asian), The Pantry, two pools, two hot tubs, theatre, cinema, library, casino, spa and gym.

BOOKINGS: Seven-night New Guinea Island Encounter from Cairns on Pacific Eden is priced from $1,149 per person twin share (interior).

See ilovecruising.com.au or pocruises.com.au

The next stop on our itinerary was Kiriwina Island, and as far as tender ports go, this has to be the closest to shore I’ve anchored on more than 40 cruises. You could almost jump off Eden’s bow right onto the sand.

A five-minute tender ride took us to another purpose-built pier, once again surrounded by crystal clear water revealing abundant coral just below the surface.

A handful of locals offered their services as guides (for a small tip) for a tour of the village, about a 20 minute walk up a track.

Upon leaving Kiriwina, the stunning weather that had followed Eden all voyage began to change and conversation onboard turned to the possibility of missing the Conflict Islands. All season, this port had eluded Eden with the past three scheduled stops aborted due to strong winds preventing safe tendering ashore.

Captain Gavin Pears made an announcement asking everyone to say a little prayer for good fortune as the beginning of the monsoon rain started to tumble onto the decks.

Next morning was still less than ideal as we navigated the reef into the huge lagoon surrounded by the 21 privately owned islands. It was touch and go, but after a delay of about 30 minutes, the captain gave the all clear to commence tendering to Panasesa 62

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Island, an announcement met with cheers from the passengers and so stand-up paddleboards for hire. At $20 an hour, this was much no doubt the crew as well. cheaper than organising a kayak tour through the ship’s excursion No-one would have been more pleased than Ian Gowrie Smith, desk, especially as we negotiated a fee of just $40 for the entire day. the British-Australian pharmaceutical billionaire who owns this Also dotted along the beach and among the shade trees are tropical paradise. In a chance beach meeting, he told me that the past dozens of comfy beach chairs available for $5 per day. Just find your three cruise ship cancellations had cost him about $100,000. perfect spot, sit down and relax. An attendant will come around This tendering issue may soon be solved with a new dock sometime later and punch out the fee from your card. proposed for the leeward side of the island. P&O’s vice president Snorkelling equipment is also available for hire and is a definite of deployment, Matt Rutherford confirmed a new dock was a must in the Conflict Islands. About 200 metres off the beach, the strong possibility and would go a long way shallow coral reef gives way to a dramatic to ensuring the Conflict Islands remains a drop off and deep blue ocean beyond. This is regular stop on nearly all PNG itineraries. home to an abundance of marine life from So what are the Conflict Islands? Think tiny clown fish to small (and perfectly safe) Fantasy Island (complete with the eccentric reef sharks. On my last snorkel of the day, a owner greeting his guests as they come large sea turtle surfaced right in front of me ashore) and you’d come close. Manicured, and seemed to give me a private 20-minute well-signposted pathways meander through tour of its home along the reef ’s edge. the jungle, leading guests to a beach, where If you’re feeling energetic, you can walk THE VERDICT the most stunning, crystal-clear turquoise around the island in an hour or so. There water, laps at palm-fringed, pure-white sand. is an airport on the northern side with a Highs: The Conflict Islands over-delivered in Postcard material that would seriously give natural beauty and facilities for daytime guests. grass landing strip and a hut cheekily signed the Maldives a run for its money. international/domestic departures. Ian My barefoot circumnavigation of this paradise This is a cash-free island, so upon arrival informed us his private paradise is accessible is an experience I’ll treasure forever. you exchange Aussie dollars, left over PNG via a turbo prop charter from Port Moresby, Low: The staged “Culture Festival” in Alotau Kina or even your credit card for a voucher at a cost of $25,000 return, P&O’s Eden was so heavily promoted that most passengers system of $25, $50 or $100 cards all in $5 seems a far more economical option. went along, perhaps missing more authentic increments that are punched out when used.

This exciting new itinerary is causing a stir culture that exist in this region.

By the time we reached the beach, the in the Australian cruise market and will no Best suited to: Anyone who has exhausted weather had cleared to magnificent sunshine doubt prove a winner for P&O. well-travelled Pacific ports and those and blue skies. Lined up along the water were seeking a culturally interesting experience.

Tim Faircloth is from ilovecruising.com.au about 20 glass-bottom kayaks and a dozen or cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: BUTLERS

Are you being served?

Suddenly, every cabin has a butler to pander to your slightest whim. But what would Downton Abbey’s Mr Carson have made of today’s white-gloved butler brigade? Bernadette Chua compares the services on offer.

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butler used to be known as “a gentleman’s gentleman”. But despite our egalitarian world, the butler has made an amazing comeback – particularly on the high seas and rivers of Europe.

Some lines have even brought the famously discreet individual in tails up to date, calling them “Genies” and dressing them in elegant but casual clothes instead of black suits and white gloves.

Butlers on board lines such as Silversea, Crystal Cruises and Cunard fulfil the more traditional duties such as unpacking your luggage and shining your shoes. Other lines such as Royal Caribbean and Regent Seven Seas have taken a more modern approach, with services tailored to individual guests.

Cruise Passenger takes a look at how the lines stack up.

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CRUISE PLUS: BUTLERS

AZAMARA CLUB CRUISES On both Azamara Quest and Azamara Journey, your butler will not only unpack and pack your luggage, but will also fetch your freshly cleaned and pressed laundry – a complimentary service for those booked in suites. They will also arrange your spa and dining reservations as well as serve you afternoon tea on a cart that goes from suite to suite.

CRYSTAL CRUISES Passengers who book the Penthouse, Penthouse Suite or Crystal Penthouse on the Crystal Serenity and Crystal Symphony will be assigned a butler. Crystal butlers are well-trained and very much like a traditional manservant.

They will stock your suite mini-bar with your favourite refreshments and, if you don’t feel like venturing out of your cabin for a meal, they will serve you breakfast, lunch or dinner from the dining room or from the specialty restaurants Prego or Silk Road. Crystal River Cruises guests also have their own butlers, who offer a turn-down service, will unpack and pack your bags and deliver room service 24 hours a day. cruisepassenger.com.au

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SO WHAT DOES A BUTLER DO IN 2017?

NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE Available to guests staying in suites, Norwegian Cruise Line butlers will fetch DVDs and CDs for your viewing and listening pleasure, deliver fresh flowers, fruit, water, sodas and stationery for you to write letters which they’ll deliver for you on embarkation and port days, and serve in-suite breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner from any menu on board, including the alternative dining venues.

■ According to the Australian Butler School: “The traditional concept of a gentleman’s gentleman has been replaced by the image of a dynamic service professional, male or female, whose remuneration reflects the breadth of service and level of responsibility entrusted to them.

A butler must always be adaptable and flexible, ready to take on new responsibilities as and when his employer sees fit.

He is the byword for common sense, patience and expertise.”

Here’s what the school says a butler does: Presentation of the premises to the highest standard, internally and externally Valeting all clothes including washing, ironing, minor repairs, shoe cleaning Care and maintenance of antiques, fine furniture, artwork, silver and collectables Maintenance of inventories for wine cellars, artworks and items of value

DREAM CRUISES The newly launched Asian luxury cruise line has special butlers for the Dream Palace, the VIP area on board Genting Dream. In these special suites, European-trained butlers will cater to your every whim. Like Crystal Cruises butlers, they will unpack and pack your luggage and serve you dinner, course by course, in your suite. Genting Dream is targeting the Chinese market, so will offer a mixture of Englishand Mandarin-speaking butlers.

Shopping and stocking of food pantry, alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages Food and beverage setting and service

CUNARD Butlers have been a fixture on Cunard ships since the original Queen Mary. The famous luxury line has traditional, Englishtrained butlers who will perform duties for guests in the Queens Grill Suites, including unpacking and packing your luggage, organising spa, theatre and dinner reservations and stocking your mini-bar with your favourite beverages. Your Cunard butler will also prepare pre-dinner canapes in your cabin.

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Balanced meal preparation for family members and small functions Organisation and supervision of formal entertaining Attendance to house guests and visitors Management, co-ordination and supervision of all trades people and casual staff Vehicle presentation, registration and maintenance Chauffeuring family members Social diary management and travel arrangements.

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CRUISE PLUS: BUTLERS

SILVERSEA CRUISES Silversea offers the crème de la crème of service. All passengers on board all seven Silversea ships have a butler at their service. When guests arrive at their suite, they are welcomed by their butler who will offer a number of bathroom amenities and a choice of pillows. Your butler will then unpack your luggage and ask about your food preferences. Aside from shining your shoes and making restaurant and shore excursion reservations, your Silversea butler will also organise insuite cocktail parties as well as draw scented whirlpool baths.

ROYAL CARIBBEAN Royal Caribbean employs “Royal Genies” to look after guests in its top tier class, the Royal Class Suite on board its Oasis class ships. Passengers in the top suites on Ovation of the Seas, arriving in Australia in December, will have access to the Genie service. There is roughly one Genie for every three suites, along with two full-time concierges.

Royal Class Suite guests receive a questionnaire about six weeks before the cruise along with a letter in which their Genie promises to be “in my lamp

and at your service every afternoon”.

The questionnaire includes queries such as: What would constitute a perfect day for you? What are the three things that you and your travel companions have in common? Given the choice of anyone in the world, who would you like to have dinner with? When one guest nominated the late Freddie Mercury, the Genie supplied a DVD of Queen: Live at Wembley ‘86 and a bottle of Moet et Chandon, which was mentioned in the lyrics of Queen’s first hit Killer Queen.

REGENT SEVEN SEAS CRUISES The luxury cruise line offers butlers to passengers booked into a Penthouse Suite or higher. Butlers on Regent’s ships are taught to customise the cruise experience for each passenger so whether you are after a tailored shore excursion or day unwinding in the onboard spa, your Regent Seven Seas butler will be on hand to arrange it. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: PHOTOGRAPHY

Picture t c e f r e p

cruising with iPhone) Zodiac n nd, take (Greenla

Local guides bring an authentic feel to photos (Baja, Mexico, taken with iPhone)

A picture really does tell a thousand words and a cruise is great opportunity to hone your photography skills. Jocelyn Pride shares some tips that will have you bringing home a swag of beautiful shots to share with family and friends.

Try to get a high view (Alesund, N orway)

WHICH CAMERA IS RIGHT FOR YOUR CRUISE?

great ice-breaker and sharing knowledge is gold, especially if you hit a snag.

■ Like a pair of good slippers – the best camera is one you’re comfortable with. A DSLR and a good zoom lens is perfect if you’re heading somewhere wildlife orientated, but it’s also heavy to lug around. Smaller compact cameras can cover most situations. And don’t underestimate the capability of the camera in your phone – they can produce drool worthy photos. Although it may sound a bit suck egg-ish, whatever camera you do choose, learn which button does what and how to change the settings before you leave home.

How many people can honestly say they’ve read the manual cover to cover? Once on board look around for other guests who have the same or similar camera. Photography is a

Check out vantage points and look for things that catch your eye such as quirky signs or sumptuous furnishings. Where possible, always go on deck for scenic shots – a pretty sunset might look gorgeous through the window of the lounge, but flare and glass reflection can ruin your photo. Even if you’re on a megaship such as Harmony of the Seas, ships move and vibrations make for blurry shots. Tripods don’t cut it on board so compensate by bumping up your ISO and use your body as a tripod – widen your legs and hold the camera close to your eye with your elbows firmly against your body. Don’t rest

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EXPLORE THE SHIP ■

your camera on the rail of the ship – it moves, too. If you have a grid on your view finder, turn it on to help eliminate the number-one fault in cruise photography – a crooked horizon. Water and cameras don’t mix. Bring a dry bag and always loop your camera strap around your wrist or neck.

COVER ALL BASES Think like a pro and keep three different types of shots in mind – wide, mid and detail. The wide shot establishes a sense of place. When on shore, try to look for high shots that include the ship in situ. A mid shot brings in a sense of immediacy, such as photos of travelling companions in front of a famous landmark or playing a game on deck. Detail shots will add texture and ■

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hotos

PHOTOGRAPHY

otos make great ph Small details

Sometimes the best shots are behind you (Angkor Wat sunrise)

ge – Alaska) (Inside Passa y ad re e th at your camera Always have atmosphere to your cruise album. Look for patterns and contrasting colours. On board, things such as ropes, brass knobs, signs, lights, food, cocktails at happy hour, even the way the towels are folded in your cabin can make great photos. During excursions, think of a window box filled with flowers, the steam from a pot bubbling in a marketplace, shells on a beach, the eye of an animal. Be patient and look around. Do you really want the same picture that’s on every postcard in the gift shop? Sometimes the best shot is the opposite of what everyone else is photographing.

SNAPS AND APPS Technology is progressing faster than a camera’s shutter. If you use your phone ■

Cultural experienc es (Camb odia,take n with iP hone)

Take photos to remind you of the season (Normandy, France, tak en with iPhone)

camera, even as a back- up, apps can turn your smartphone into a DSLR (well almost).

But it’s an app jungle out there, so you need to adopt the KISS strategy (Keep it Simple Sailor) and choose carefully. The pick of the bunch for cross platforms (IOS and Android) is Snapseed, which may take a while to learn but is worth the effort. Camera + is a must for iPhone users and Hydra is great for low-light situations. And if you’re into social media, VSCO can help you edit your photos so they look like they were shot on film. With millions of images uploaded every day, Facebook and Instagram are still the go-to sites for sharing photos online and Lightroom is the most accessible editing tool. And if you’re into making slide shows and video clips, check out Quik – super easy and yes, quick.

ENJOYING YOUR IMAGES There’s no better way to cope with postholiday blues than reliving each moment through your photos. Designing a printed album online is fun and adds a professional touch. Momento (momento.com.au) led the way in Australia and has maintained a high quality. Photobook Australia (photobookaustralia.com.au) is another beautiful site with a range of designs. Fancy a scarf, t-shirt, doona cover or mug inspired by your cruise? Red Bubble (redbubble.com) has many ways to turn photos into art. Poster Candy (postercandy.com.au) specialises in collages and Polaroid retro prints. Prints on Glass (printsonglass.com.au) can even etch your cruise memories into your heart forever by desiging a feature wall for your home.

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CRUISE PLUS: NORTHWEST PASSAGE

Expedition to the

KINGDOM OF ICE

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CRUISE PLUS: NORTHWEST PASSAGE

The Northwest Passage has intrigued and fascinated Arctic explorers for centuries.

Now this challenging route across the top of the world is entering a new era of exploration, discovers Nick Walton.

W

ith a plodding movement that’s lumbering and elegant all at once, a polar bear traces its way down a finger of partially submerged land, nose in the air, the late afternoon light shimmering off wet stones beneath its massive paws.

Save for the lapping of water against the Zodiac’s hull and the symphony of camera shutters, there is silence as we soak in this blissfully close encounter. The adolescent male has done the opposite of what polar bears usually do when they encounter camera-toting travellers in Canada’s high Arctic and has stuck around, giving our group, just feet away, the odd curious glace between nibbling the beluga whale skeletons that litter beautiful Cunningham Inlet.

The Northwest Passage, a 1,500-kilometre shortcut between Europe and Asia across the roof of North America has fascinated explorers for centuries, with many losing their lives in its pursuit. Only in the past decade has melting ice opened a seasonal window during which ships might pass through.

Despite an increasing number of cruise ships bound for the high Arctic

in a tentative new era for the passage, its dangers remain poignant.

I’m attempting the journey with Canadian polar junky One Ocean Expeditions, which offers a pair of Northwest Passage sailings annually on its stout Russian research vessel Akademik Ioffe. It’s a route that draws travellers for many reasons.

There are avid birders hoping to spy red-throated loons, cackling geese and gyrfalcons. There are expedition cruisers, ticking the emerging route off their own lists. And there are history fans inspired by recent discoveries that have brought the passage’s rich history to life again.

Explorers began searching for the Northwest Passage in 1497 when Italian navigator John Cabot first attempted the journey, with Norwegian polar pioneer Roald Amundsen finally succeeding four centuries later.

Since that first successful passage in 1906, there have been fewer than 250 transits (only 50 by cruise vessels), with the majority taking place in the nine years since an “icefree” summer window was created by global warming.

Passengers make the most of calm conditions as Akademik Ioffe cruises Sunshine Fjord, Baffin Island

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CRUISE PLUS: NORTHWEST PASSAGE

Despite the reduction of sea ice, the passage remains a treacherous undertaking.

In 2010, it took 40 hours to evacuate 120 passengers from the grounded Clipper Adventurer and passengers on the luxurious Crystal Serenity, which transited the passage in August, were reportedly required to take out US$50,000 evacuation insurance policies. Less a defined route than a myriad of possible waterways, of which less than 10 per cent are charted, a cruise through the Northwest Passage is an adventure.

However, there’s a big difference between watching the desolately beautiful landscapes of Nunavut, the newest, largest, northernmost and least populous territory of Canada, drift by while you wait for your sommelier to decide on a chardonnay, and tackling the destination like so many explorers past.

I had joined the 96-passenger Akademik Ioffe in Cambridge Bay, a tiny hamlet on Victoria Island that’s a common departure point for Arctic Ocean research vessels.

Cambridge Bay spans eras of Arctic exploration. In the inlet, the timber and 72

iron remains of The Maud, Amundsen’s ship from his second Arctic expedition, have been returned to the surface in a multi-million dollar salvage effort. Her blackened hull is a stark contrast to the low-slung buildings of the state-of-the-art Canadian High Arctic Research Station, which is set to open at year’s end.

After a welcome from village elders we set sail southeast into Queen Maud Sound.

Akademik Ioffe may not have a spa or room service, but she is perfectly suited for the high Arctic. Leased by One Ocean from Russian’s Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Ioffe has an ice-rated hull, comfortable ensuite cabins, a dining room, bar, sauna, presentation theatre and a rooftop Jacuzzi. My cabin has plenty of storage, a comfortable single cot and a cabin attendant who giggles shyly at my stumbling Russian.

The ship is run by a Russian crew, but a full complement of guides and naturalists bring the destination to life with lectures, daily excursions, Zodiac cruises and kayaking itineraries. Our guides include the eversmiling Atuat Shouldice, an Inuit guide and

environmental inspector from Rankin, David Begg, a New Zealand mountain guide, and Katie Murray, a Scottish historian with a serious crush on Sir John Franklin.

Franklin’s ill-fated 1845 expedition, in which his two ships and 129 crew disappeared, inadvertently opened the Canadian Arctic Archipelago to exploration, with more than 50 unsuccessful rescue expeditions helping to define this vast and hostile territory. The expedition’s demise has remained one of the most fascinating Arctic mysteries, baffling researchers until September 2014, when the Victoria Strait Expedition, which included Akademik Ioffe, discovered Franklin’s HMS Erebus submerged west of O’Reilly Island in Queen Maud Gulf. This major historic discovery was bolstered this September by the discovery of Erebus’ sister ship, HMS Terror. Now all eyes are on the Northwest Passage and the secrets the ships may reveal.

After our close encounter with the polar bears of Cunningham Bay, we trail shy beluga whale pods back to the ship as the low-slung sun casts the clouds in a warm amber hue, rays of golden light occasionally penetrating the canopy.

Cruising Bellot Strait the next morning,

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CRUISE PLUS: NORTHWEST PASSAGE Clockwise from far left: a Zodiac carries passengers close to a glacier; on-deck Jacuzzi; hiking at Low Point; getting to grips with the ice

passengers brave wicked winds on the bridge wings in search of musk oxen, ivory and herring gulls, and arctic foxes.

Akademik Ioffe has an open-bridge policy, allowing guests the chance to watch the Russian crew in action as we navigate this 25-kilometre, wafer-thin waterway between Somerset Island and the Boothia Peninsula, passing Zenith Point, the northern tip of mainland North America.

After cruising Prince Regent Inlet we cross Parry Sound and reach Beechey Island, a tiny islet at the southern tip of Devon Island, the world’s largest uninhabited island.

First visited by European explorers in 1819, Beechey is where Franklin and his crew wintered in 1845-46 before disappearing.

Remnants of his camp, discovered in 1851, still remain, including the three grave stones of crew who didn’t survive the winter.

Researchers believe many of Franklin’s men died from lead poisoning, either from the lead-soldered tins of provisions or from the ship’s water distillation system, although there are more macabre tails of cannibalism.

As the wind whips across a natural breakwater between Lancaster Sound and Wellington Channel, expedition leader Boris Wise cracks open a bottle of whisky

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: One Ocean Expeditions VESSEL: Akademik Ioffe PASSENGER CAPACITY: 96 TOTAL CREW: 65 PASSENGER DECKS: 4 ENTERED SERVICE: 1989 TONNAGE: 6,230 FACILITIES: Dining room, lounge and bar, library, presentation room, gift shop, fitness room, massage room, hot water spa, sauna, plunge pool, mud room, 10 Zodiacs, use of wet-weather gear.

BOOKINGS: One Ocean Expeditions’ Classic Northwest itinerary on Akademik Ioffe, departing August 24, 2017, is priced from US$9,195 per person, triple share.

The voyage starts from Edmonton on a charter flight and ends with a charter flight to Ottawa. Charter flights cost an additional US$1,995. Air Canada flies from Sydney to Edmonton via Vancouver.

See oneoceanexpeditions.com

and we toast the explorers who sought to tame this lonely land so far from home.

We encounter our first real ice in Croker Bay as we follow the southern coast of Devon Island, a scene so devoid of life it’s used as a simulation of Mars by NASA. The northernmost point of our cruise, Croker Bay is home to two towering glaciers, their jagged faces pockmarked with caves that reveal a shimmering aqua blue interior. We give way to a massive herd of harp seals before cruising the Zodiacs close enough to the glaciers to hear the ice creak and groan.

The Arctic weather starts to flex its muscles that afternoon and we’re forced to view the abandoned Royal Canadian Mounted Police barracks at Dundas Harbour from afar. As ocean swells heave the ship, a pair of arctic wolves watch us from shore, white dots on a coffeecoloured landscape of rocky peaks.

The captain sails us into Navy Board Inlet, protected by the towering peaks of Baffin Island to the west and Bylot Island to the east. On the cusp of Eclipse Sound, we land at Low Point, hiking to the top of a lichenencrusted hill that offers views down to a grounded iceberg the size of an office block.

Emerging from Pond Inlet, our transit of the Northwest Passage is at an end and we sail south down the east coast of Baffin Island. We spot rare bowhead whales as we as we cross Isabella Bay, a whale sanctuary, and arrive in the calm waters of Cumberland Sound, where a whaling station has blossomed into the Inuit settlement of Pangnirtung. It’s a fitting finish to our expedition as we share tea smoked with arctic heather with guides from the hamlet.

THE VERDICT Highs: Our close encounter with polar bears in Cunningham Inlet was unforgettable.

Lows: Internet access is still a tricky business and the ship runs a very dated service that was a little frustrating.

Best suited to: Those adventurous souls who have already cruised the Antarctic and want the ultimate Arctic encounter.

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CRUISE PLUS: VENICE

Following waterways from Mantua into the heart of Venice by bicycle and barge gives Susan Gough Henly plenty of opportunity to explore beyond the tourist trail.

L

ate afternoon sunshine streams across Ave Maria’s spacious top deck as we cruise slowly along Venice’s Grand Canal admiring the ducal palace at Saint Mark’s Square and the elaborate gardens of the Venice Biennale.

Jam-packed commuter vaporettos (waterbuses and taxis) dash across the water below us and in the distance a flotilla of cruise ships is moored on the city outskirts. I’m feeling lucky to be among just 34 guests aboard this sleek custom-built boat. There can’t be better way to enter La Serenissima.

We even raise a toast to Amal and George Clooney as we glide past the Belmond Hotel Cipriani to moor nearby on the island of Giudecca.

We’ve just spent a week biking with Girolibero, Italy’s only bike and barge company, from the Renaissance city of Mantua along the Po River Valley and across the barrier islands of the Veneto Lagoon to arrive here. The biking has been blissfully easy and

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CRUISE PLUS: VENICE

Venice A slow boat to

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CRUISE PLUS: VENICE perfect for building appetites for superb each with en suites, a large dining and local dishes served up by Ave Maria’s lounge area with picture windows, and excellent chefs. a shaded roof deck.

The idea of Girolibero was hatched On our first day, we are fitted with our 19 years ago by five teenage friends during excellent orange touring bikes and cycle a university break. Today, it is the largest around three picturesque lakes created bike-touring company in Italy, offering 26 by the Mincio River. A highlight is the different trips with 2,000 bikes and 150 exquisite lotus flower beds near Mantua guides. that were created by the princely Gonzaga Its intrepid leader, Pierpaolo Romio, family who ruled Mantua much like the always had a passion for the Dutch-style of Medicis ran Florence. biking and barging holidays, too.

Mantua is the Italian Capital “It was as crazy an idea as of Culture this year and there Clockwise from selling ice-cream on Mars,” are many treasures to discover. right: Off loading bikes from Ave one of the founding partners, On a walking tour, we visit the Maria; Grana Padano Basilica of Sant’Andrea with its Giovanni Bottazzi, tells me, cheese; gondolier “but he went ahead and bought spectacular barrel vault, which race; pasta making; a barge and sailed it all the way some say inspired Saint Peter’s Chioggia; Venice; from Amsterdam, down the Bagni Alberoni, Lido Basilica in Rome.

Rhine and Danube to Istanbul We ride the barge along the and eventually to Italy.” picturesque heron-dotted Mincio River There was even a book written about the to Governolo, stronghold of the Mincio voyage, which became a bestseller in Japan, pirates, and then take off on our bikes of all places. to discover hidden gems such as the Today, that original boat, Vita Pugna, fascinating National Museum of Carousel still does the trip alongside the larger, and the Popular Tradition in the tiny purpose-built Ave Maria. town of Bergantino. Some of the world’s “The two boats run 31 weeks a year and biggest suppliers of amusement park rides are fully booked. We have eight captains are based here and the museum showcases and eight chefs that rotate through the everything from elaborate music machines schedule. All the chefs are Italian because to miniature rollercoasters. the food is very important,” Bottazzi laughs.

There are many other adventures, too, Ave Maria is a supremely comfortable such as visiting a Grana Padano cheese home for the week, with spacious cabins factory and tasting aged cheese with local honey and wine, wandering medieval laneways in the castle town of Ferrara and cycling beside a maze of bird-filled waterways in the Po River delta.

At the entrance to Venice Lagoon, we love the fishing port of Chioggia, nicknamed Little Venice, where we explore its huge fish market. We then spend a day cycling along the lagoon’s narrow barrier islands passing fishing boats, brightly THE VERDICT coloured villages and grand waterside Highs: Sitting on Ave Maria’s top deck as mansions. We feast on fresh seafood, swim we cruised down the Venice Grand Canal. at beaches decked out with striped cabanas, Fabulous meals and a convivial crew. and devour delicious gelato in the heart of Extremely affordable.

Lido’s glamorous resort community.

Lows: All the museums and shops were And as Ave Maria starts its journey closed in the middle of the day when we across the lagoon to Venice we cheer visited the historic city of Ferrara. A guided rowers in a gondolier race, each team walking tour would have helped get a better bending their oars in full flight, not appreciation of the city. chasing the tourist dollar but the finish Best suited to: This is a terrific adventure line and the glory that comes with it. for active travellers who want to explore Venice is much more than a tourist trap Venice and its surrounding region beyond and on this bike and barge adventure we the tourist brochures. You can even hire an have been privileged to experience some electric bike to make the cycling easier. of its genuine attractions.

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CRUISE PLUS: VENICE

FACT FILE COMPANY: Girolibero VESSEL: Ave Maria PASSENGER CAPACITY: 40 TOTAL CREW: 6 PASSENGER DECKS: 3 ENTERED SERVICE: 2011 TONNAGE: 295 FACILITIES: Dining room and lounge, shaded deck, four superior above-deck cabins, 13 comfortable cabins below deck, air-conditioning, bicycles and panniers provided. BOOKINGS: Seven-night Venice to Mantua (or reverse) bike and barge trip on Ave Maria, April to October 2017, is priced from $1,750 per person, twin-share.

See girolibero.com/en

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CRUISE PLUS: FOOD

Best

of both worlds Quail eggs with broccolini mole, roast avocado and tamari; Mark Best (left)

The latest Australian chef to take to the water, Mark Best has teamed with Dream Cruises to launch the EastWest fusion Bistro aboard Genting Dream. Bernadette Chua spoke with him.

H

e’s one of Australia’s biggest names in food and ran the three-hat Sydney restaurant Marque in the cool innercity suburb of Surry Hills for 17 years before closing its doors in June.

Now Mark Best is focusing on his Pei Modern restaurants in Sydney and Melbourne, as well as expanding his horizons at sea.

Known for his innovative cuisine, which blends many cultural influences from the diverse backgrounds of modern Australia, Best has partnered with the new Dream Cruises to create a specialty restaurant on board Genting Dream.

The first ship for the new luxury cruise line, launched in November, will be homeported in Nansha, China and will also sail from nearby Hong Kong.

It has 35 restaurants and bars on board, including Best’s Bistro, featuring Western dishes married with Asian cooking styles.

Bistro will seat 219 diners and will include a 54-seat Grill as well as a Chef ’s

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CRUISE PLUS: FOOD Table, where guests will be able to have an intimate dinner party.

Best says he will be using the highestquality ingredients from Australia, as he does at his restaurants on shore. Think Aussie beef, lamb, river fish and seafood.

“Finding the produce will be interesting and obviously you don’t have providores coming through your doors on a whim as you do with a restaurant on land.

But I am really looking forward to the challenge,” he says.

“One thing we are going to be doing is using Australian produce. There are flights daily to Hong Kong, so we can source it from Australia and choose the best from the rest of the world.

“A lot of the other fresh product will come from ports, which we will get when we pull in. Produce like seafood we will also source from these ports because it won’t keep as well if we have to fly it in from Australia.”

Best says the menu will reflect an amalgamation of Western and Asian flavours. One of his biggest influences is the diverse cultural backgrounds of Sydneysiders.

“For the menu, I am drawing on different multicultural aspects. Especially living in Sydney, it’s very hard to define what Australian cuisine is since we have such a diverse range of ethnicity and cultural backgrounds at home. Australians are really spoiled in terms of cultural influences that we take for granted,” he says.

Traditional medicinal Chinese ingredients will also make an appearance, such as black chicken, often used to help improve vision and motor-skill development and to treat various ailments.

“I love Chinese food and I travel quite a fair bit. I’m doing things that are perhaps more traditional in terms of maybe medicinal Chinese foods like the black chicken. But I’ll be using in more contemporary way of cooking. And I’ve even used these sort of influences at Marque over the years,” Best says.

“It surprises people when you introduce an ingredient and change the context of it. I’ve created a dish called The Three Rivers which consists of Murray cod, with a white butter sauce from the Loire Valley, served with stir-fried potatoes, which is something I had when I travelled to the Yangtze outside of Beijing. I went to this restaurant which just stir-fried raw potato strips with chilies and Sichuan pepper.”

Best-ever banana bread 250g softened unsalted butter 335g raw sugar 4 eggs (room temperature, 55g) 1 cinnamon quill 1 star anise 2 cloves 3 cardamom pods 1/2 tsp white peppercorns 300g plain flour 3 tsp baking powder 6 ripe bananas 1. Preheat oven to 160C. Grease a 21cm x 6cm loaf tin and line with baking paper.

2. Cut butter into 1cm cubes. Cream butter and sugar on high speed in an electric Chef Best hopes to bring the idea of fusion fine dining to the Asian market using his inspiration from Australian, French and Chinese cooking.

“From a traditional standpoint of cooking, it’s quite hard to create something like that. But from a non-traditional background, there are no rules. And coming from Sydney, you can bring all of that together. It’s just about the integrity of the idea and bringing it all together.

“What I enjoy about Chinese cuisine is the appreciation of texture. Flavour is almost secondary, especially with Cantonese food. I really enjoy that textural thing, which is something that I incorporated a long time ago at Marque and it really opened up my world.”

mixer using a paddle attachment. Add eggs one at a time, scraping down the bowl between each addition.

3. Blend spices to a fine powder and sift with flour and baking powder. Peel and roughly chop bananas, and toss through spiced flour to coat. Gently fold flour and banana into the creamed butter mix until fully incorporated 4. Pour mixture into prepared tin. Tap once firmly on the bench to remove any air pockets. Bake for 45-50 minutes or until a thermometer reads 85C. 5. Allow to cool in tin for 5 minutes before turning onto a wire rack. Serve slices with lashings of salted butter.

For its inaugural season, Genting Dream will sail from Nansha and Hong Kong on two-night weekend cruises and fivenight itineraries to Vietnam, visiting Danang and Hanoi (Halong Bay). dreamcruiseline.com

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CRUISE PLUS: CHINA

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t’s a spring morning with an overcast sky when I arrive at Chongqing, in China’s Sichuan province, after a long overnight flight via Hong Kong.

I am here to board Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer for a three-night cruise down the mighty Yangtze River to Yichang in Hubei province. The Chinese call it Chang Jiang, which means long river, and the Yangtze is the world’s third-longest and Asia’s longest river.

We are anticipating lots of heart-stopping moments. The awe-inspiring landscape surrounding the Three Gorges is on our itinerary and this journey ranks in many travellers’ top-10 “must-do” lists.

The Yangtze is considered by the Chinese as the greatest source of life. The river originates from the Tibetan Plateau and surges from the west to the east, cutting through Sichuan, Chongqing, Hubei and Hunan provinces before emptying out at Shanghai.

It is hot and humid by the time I arrive at a nondescript wharf with steep steps leading down to the river ship. An elderly farmer-turned-porter hoists my case over his shoulders and deftly descends the steps.

No high-tech luggage loaders here.

The ship is expecting 95 guests, mostly American, Korean, Australian and British, plus two local families with young children.

I am six hours early, but the young crew is most welcoming, showing me to suite 310 on deck 3. It is a generous-sized room with a balcony, bathroom with separate shower, queen-sized bed and wardrobe.

When I’m settled, a lunch of steamed dumplings and vegetable noodle soup is served.

Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer is a comfortable ship. Cabin sizes start from 31 square metres. The four biggest suites, ranging from 81 square metres to the top Celestial and Imperial suites at 110 square metres, are decorated in modern Chinese style.

The ship has an onboard spa specialising in foot reflexology, and tai-chi classes are conducted each morning. There’s a gym, conference room, theatre and the Explorer Bar, where most of the guests congregate and listen to the Filipino singer’s repertoire of 1970s and ’80s music.

The ship has its own chequered history.

In 1995, Bill Gates chartered it for his family and close friends, including American billionaire Warren Buffet, for a four-night private cruise on the Yangtze to experience the Three Gorges. Orders of 80

Simply gorgeous

Cruising down the Yangtze through China’s famous Three Gorges, Teresa Ooi is mesmerised by the mountainous scenery.

specially imported marshmallow chocolate drinks for breakfast and cans of cherryflavoured Coke were loaded up for Gate’s intimate cruise holiday, looked after by more than 100 crew.

The ship has also hosted former US Secretary of State Henry Kissinger and Mark Cendrowski, a director best known for the US TV sitcom The Big Bang Theory.

Cruises on the Yangtze often begin or end in Chongqing. It is China’s gateway

to the south-west. It is also a city of lights.

When dusk falls, colourful neon lights illuminate cruise ships, pleasure craft, buildings, overhead funiculars and bridges.

The harbourside resembles a scene from Blade Runner.

There is only one main dining room on Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer, the recently refurbished Dynasty Restaurant. The menu is what hotel manager Teddy Garcia describes as “East meets West’’.

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CRUISE PLUS: CHINA

FACT FILE

This is the only ship plying the Yangtze that offers an à-la-carte menu. Over the three-night cruise, we are served a mix of Western and Chinese dishes. Starters include a choice of beef consommé, cream of mushroom soup and winter melon soup, while main courses range from duck with plum sauce, dory fish fillet in Thai sauce and fried chicken. Breakfast and lunch are buffet-style with a choice of Chinese noodles with dumplings, fried beef with

capsicum, sweet and sour fish, fried rice and traditional Western scrambled or fried eggs, muesli with yoghurt, cut bananas and watermelon.

It is a trifle disappointing that despite the cruise starting in the Sichuan province, which is known for its spicy and chili-hot cuisine, there are barely any spicy dishes served on board, with the exception of kung pao chicken – a popular dish cooked with garlic and spicy sauce.

COMPANY: Sanctuary Retreats VESSEL: Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer PASSENGER CAPACITY: 124 TOTAL CREW: 118 PASSENGER DECKS: 5 ENTERED SERVICE: 1995 TONNAGE: 6,733 FACILITIES: Explorer Bar, small reading room, conference room, Huang Ding spa, tai chi classes, gym, Tang theatre.

BOOKINGS: Three-night (downstream) and four-night (upstream) cruise on Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer are priced from $2,080 per person, twin share. See wendywutours.com.au or sanctuaryretreats.com

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CRUISE PLUS: CHINA The next day, we arrive at the ancient ghost city of Fengdu, which has a collection of shrines, temples and monasteries celebrating the afterlife. We take a walk through Fengdu marketplace where stall holders sell anything from pigs’ ear lobes to chicken feet. Barefoot dentists, with no proper qualifications, carry out their trade in the open streets alongside several women tailors, altering clothes on the spot for waiting customers.

We are close to the climax of our journey; one of the new wonders of our modern world, an engineering marvel shrouded in wonder and controversy – the Three Gorges dam.

At a relocation village, we visit Mr Mao, one of 1.3 million Chinese, mostly farmers, moved from the river banks to relocation villages when the dam was being constructed. That figure gives you an idea of the scale of the project.

Just after the sun rises the next day, the ship enters the first gorge. Qutang Gorge is about eight kilometres long and takes 20 minutes to navigate. Guests on board are awestruck, mesmerised by the sheer beauty of the mountainous landscape around us.

It is exactly what you see in pictures of the Three Gorges.

Next, we enter Wu Gorge. It stretches 45 kilometres and is considered the most beautiful with 12 peaks, including the famous Goddess Peak.

When the ship docks at Badong, we disembark directly to a ferry, which takes us on a guided tour of the Shennong Stream. We board a sampan rowed by three elderly boatmen, former farmers from the river banks, helped by two boat trackers who jump off and pull the sampan in very shallow waters.

As we move upstream, the water is densely green, but the surrounding mountainside is magnificent. It is home to the Tujia people from the Ba tribe, who have their own language and customs.

“Can you see the coffin hanging from the mountainside? Look, quick – there’s a dragon head and a swallow’s nest at the side of the mountain – use your imagination,’’ our local guide urges us, pointing out rocky features.

At about 4pm, we enter the treacherous Xiling Gorge, which has caused many navigational mishaps due to its frightening whirlpool currents and strong rapids. The Three Gorges Dam was constructed in the middle of the Xiling Gorge, increasing the 82

Clockwise from right: serving tea on Sanctuary Yangzi Explorer; bridge over the Yangtze River; onboard suite; Three Gorges dam; statue at Fengdu; one of the top suites; sampan boatmen

river depth from three metres to well over 100 metres in the reservoir.

That evening, our last on the ship, we dine in style with a Chinese banquet, which includes hot and sour soup, kungbao shrimp, deep-fried minced-pork ball with chestnuts, steamed dory with vermicelli, garlic vegetables, pork dumplings and Yangzhou fried rice.

Guests are also treated to a parade of waiters and waitresses all spruced up in traditional Chinese costumes, followed by an after-dinner concert at the Tang theatre on deck four. In keeping with the spirit, the concert has several contributions from guests including a guitar performance by a passenger from Queensland.

After dinner, we dash up to the top deck to watch as the ship begins to manoeuver through the Three Gorges’ locks, a process that takes more than four hours as we sleep.

The next morning, we arrive at Yichang and take a guided tour of the Three Gorges dam project – one of the largest hydro-electric power structures in the world.

Construction of the dam started in 1994 and was completed in 2008. In the process, the dam flooded 13 cities, 140 towns and 1,600 villages. It also flooded many archaeological and cultural sites.

Besides producing electricity, the dam has increased Yangtze River’s shipping capacity and reduced the potential of flooding further downstream. It generates 11 times more power than the Hoover Dam in the US. It is certainly impressive, but there is no escaping the fact that this huge engineering feat has been achieved at a great cost to the Chinese people. Today, it remains a highly controversial issue.

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CRUISE PLUS: CHINA

THE VERDICT Highs: Going through the dramatic Wu Gorge with its 12 peaks and arresting mountainous terrain.

Low: Lack of spicy Sichuan food. Could do with a wider choice of fresh fruit.

Best suited to: Experienced 60-something cruisers wishing to tick off their must-do list.

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CRUISE PLUS: WELLNESS

TREATS from the EAST

From the largest Japanese bath at sea to ancient Ayurveda therapies, cruise lines are borrowing from ancient Asian practices to promote relaxation on board.

Bernadette Chua reports.

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ruise lines now have a plethora of spa treatments on board so you can take a cruise and disembark a brand new person – quite literally. They now offer Botox, cellulite reduction and collagen injections. But for those who prefer to relax with traditional therapies, there are herbal spa remedies, such as Thai massages, Japanese baths and shiatsu.

These ancient rituals have been practiced across Asia for hundreds of years to rejuvenate and relieve ailments.

Cruise Passenger set out to discover who is doing what to soothe the mind, body and soul.

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Princess Cruises One of Australia’s favourite lines, Princess Cruises, revamped Diamond Princess two years ago, and part of the rejuvenation was the inclusion of the world’s largest Japanese bath at sea.

Diamond Princess’ Izumi bath house emulates traditional Japanese thermal baths, or onsen. Izumi has an openair hydrotherapy pool with a pagoda-style roof. Inside, there are separate areas for men and women with cascading showers of hot water, or utaseyu, to relieve muscular aches, and the Lotus Spa, which has a

thermal suite and a number of therapies to choose from – you can be wrapped in seaweed infused with rosemary and pine. princess.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: FOOD renewal to banish those little bags under your eyes. ncl.com

Oceania Cruises Like Celebrity Cruises, Oceania has partnered with the Canyon Ranch Spa, offering Asian spa treatments such as hot-stone or Thai massage.

Your therapist will use smooth, rounded basalt stones that are gently heated and used as an extension of his or her hands. The weight and heat of the stones, combined with oils, penetrates muscle tissue which induces deep relaxation without overheating your body. oceaniacruises.com

MSC Cruises

Celebrity Cruises

Dream Cruises On the new Genting Dream, launched in November, there are two spas – the Crystal Life Western Spa and Crystal Life Asian Spa. One of the biggest attractions in the Crystal Life Asian Spa is a reflexology centre, which is open to families. There are 100 chairs spread around a tranquil area where guests can have expert treatments from reflexologists. The spa also offers traditional Asian massages such as Balinese and Japanese shiatsu. dreamcruiseline.com

P&O Cruises Australia On P&O Australia’s five ships, the Elemis spas offer a range of massages, facials and other therapies. One of the specialties is the Thai herbal poultice massage, which uses special herbs to promote relaxation and rejuvenation. The technique involves the herbs being wrapped in cotton and steam-heated to allow the oils and aromas to be released. The poultices are then applied to pressure points on the body to ease tension. pocruises.com.au

Canyon Ranch on Celebrity Cruises has specialty Asian treatments designed to promote healing, reduce chronic pain and restore your flow of energy (chi). The treatments include reiki, a therapy designed to restore your energy flow, and acupuncture, which uses needles on your pressure points to help motion sickness, arthritis, tension headaches, tendonitis and fatigue. Canyon Ranch also offers shirodhara, a form of ayurveda therapy in which herb-infused oils are poured over your forehead and “third eye” to de-stress the mind and emotions, while forearms, hands, lower legs and feet are massaged in traditional ayurvedic style. Also on the spa menu is an ayurvedic oil massage called abhyanga, which combines touch therapy with aromatherapy. celebritycruises.com

All MSC ships offer the Aurea Spa, based on a traditional Balinese spa, and the line’s newest ship, MSC Magnifica, offers the exclusive Aurea Papaveris, a slimming and cellulite treatment using a full Clockwise from left: Aurea Spa on MSC Musica; Celebrity Cruises Canyon Ranch massage; Crystal Life Asia Spa Vitality Pool; MSC Thai massage; Oceania Cruises hot-stone massage; Diamond Princess Izumi bathhouse

body mask of poppy flowers, grape seeds and sea salt, followed by a massage. MSC Magnifica also offers an exotic Himalayan massage, which includes being rubbed with essential oils and Himalayan fossil salts. It is believed that when the salts are heated, they release ions which create a sense of peace and deep relaxation. Meanwhile, the Tian di Bamboo massage uses many aspects of Chinese medicine with healing techniques from Tibet. msccruises.com.au

Aqua Expeditions If you want to truly immerse yourself in an Asian experience, Aqua Expeditions’ Aqua Mekong, which sails along the Mekong River offers a range of traditional treatments. Try the Khmer massage, which involves gentle stretching and deep kneading.

The Aqua Mekong spa also offers Vietnamese aromatherapy, which incorporates local ingredients such as highland coffee or organic lemongrass. The river cruise line offers a full spa menu using local therapists who are all English-speaking and will perform holistic, restorative and energising treatments. aquaexpeditions.com

Norwegian Cruise Line At the Mandara Spa on board Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) ships, guests can indulge in a rejuvenating Elemis Japanese Silk Booster Facial, which uses natural Asian silk protein to enhance your skin. NCL also offers the Elemis Japanese Silk Eye Zone Therapy, which uses the same proteins to oxygenate and increase cellular cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: STYLE

Summer at sea From an oversize pool towel to cool shades and fair-trade trilbies, Bernadette Chua has your summer cruise packing covered.

In shape

Personal touch

With this chic personalised backpack, you’ll be able to carry all your valuables and still look stylish. The Structured Backpack is easy to clean and features 80cm adjustable straps. And you can have your initials or name monogrammed on the front. $309.95. thedailyedited.com

Power packed

Hate when your phone runs out of battery while you’re on a shore excursion? The Go Single Power Bank will make sure you can charge your phone while you’re on the go. You can even talk, take photos and charge at the same time. This tiny little device is capable of charging a smartphone in just three hours. $31.16. traveluniverse.com.au

Part of Ziporah’s Oceanus Collection, the generous Neptune pool and beach towel is unique and striking. Silver metallic threads enhance cobalt blue, white and soft sand colours and the hexagonal shape takes the “roundie” towel to a new level. $139. ziporahlifestyle.com.au

Head start

This trilby by Pachacuti is handwoven by Ecuadorian artisans in natural straw and trimmed with a striped, textured ribbon. The hat is perfect for keeping the sun off and much more stylish than a baseball cap. $179. trenery.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: STYLE

Shoe in

These stylish Dior sandals will take you from day to evening in style. The gold heel, animal-print detailing and a tie-up ankle strap are just the thing for setting sail to chic and exotic destinations. $1,800. dior.com

Sleep on it

The Evolution Pillow will put an end to stiff necks.

Made with responsive memory foam, it adjusts to your neck and head and comes with a media pouch to hold your devices, memory foam earplugs and a travel bag. $39.99. cabeau.com

Retro style

These rounded retro 70s Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses have metal frames and come in a range of colours. They are the handy addition to a travel wardrobe and will protect your eyes or hide any signs of late nights on your cruise. $310. sunglasseshut.com.au

Straight up

Perfect for those summer nights at the cocktail bar, this Marimekko dress is made from woven cotton and has a straight cut silhouette that will suit most body shapes.

The dress has pockets so you can keep your camera, phone and room pass while you hit the dancefloor. $385. funkis.com

Time out

This beautiful men’s Brecken Two-Tone Stainless Steel Watch has an oversized dial and stainless steel strap, and is water resistant of up to 10 metres. This classic design of blue and gold will suit both casual and formal evenings. $384. michaelkors.com

Small treats

Keep your skin and hair in good nick while you’re travelling with the Aesop Jet Set Kit. The kit includes Aesop’s Classic Shampoo and Conditioner, the Geranium Leaf Body Cleanser as well as the Rind Concentrate Body Balm. Your hair and skin will be thanking you when you step off the plane and onto your cruise. $41. aesop.com/au

Stay tuned

With these Beats by Dr. Dre Studio Wireless over-ear headphones, you can zone out to your music on the deck of the ship. The Bluetooth stays connected to your device of up to nine metres away. The rechargeable battery also lasts 12 hours while connected via Bluetooth and up to 20 hours plugged into your device. $479.95. apple.com/au

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ADVERTORIAL

Home away from home Having spent more than 700 nights at sea, cruise agent Robyn Sinfield knows her way around a ship. She recently “road-tested” the luxurious Crystal Symphony.

A G E N T

I N S I G H T

ROBYN SINFIELD

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s soon as we stepped aboard Crystal Symphony, we felt at home. The ship is elegant, spacious and welcoming, with 566 crew to care for 920 passengers on our nine-night cruise from Lisbon to Barcelona.

It’s hard to believe our home away from home is more than 21 years old. Her public spaces all look newly carpeted and freshly painted. There’s a feeling of newness in the attention to every detail.

Our deluxe stateroom with verandah is well appointed with every comfort – plush duvets, flat-screen TV, free wi-fi (60 minutes per person per day) and a gracious suite attendant ready to make our time on board special.

Crystal Cruises offers all-inclusive itineraries with complimentary fine wines (and they are fine!), premium spirits, champagne and up to seven evening dining options, including Prego and Nobu Matsuhis’ Asian restaurant, Silk Road (absolutely brilliant).

The little included touches such as bottled water, coffees, soft drinks and room service are appreciated, but it’s the cuisine that is a stand out with a commitment to the freshest regional ingredients and variety.

Dining in the Crystal Dining Room and our special night out in The Vintage Room (surcharge applies) were a real pleasure.

And there was such variety, from cheese and charcuterie at the Bistro to afternoon tea in the Palm Court to “at-sea” pasta and soup in the Lido Café.

There’s so much to do, too, with theatres, Computer University@sea and supervised spaces for children (Fantastia) and teens (Waves). Like to walk the deck?

There’s a wraparound teak promenade.

Love to shop? There are great onboard

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Crystal Symphony; deconstructed cheesecake (below); The Vintage Room (below right)

boutiques with everything from Burberry to Von Furstenberg.

After a full day exploring ashore, it’s time to dance, drink, play roulette, see a stage show or listen to music in a quiet bar.

Evenings on board cater to every taste. And to help you recover, Crystal Symphony has the only Feng Shui inspired spa at sea.

We’ve cruised a lot, more than 700 nights in total, and it’s the itinerary planning that makes Crystal special for us, with destinations across the globe.

The exciting news is that Crystal Cruises is now able to show us the world in a new way with its new boutique yacht, Crystal Esprit, carrying just 62 guests. And all the elegance it has taken to the oceans is now available on Europe’s rivers. Crystal River Cruising has launched the first of five

vessels, Crystal Mozart, with more coming in 2017 and 2018, all promising unmatched space and luxury. Mozart is plying the River Danube on 10-night itineraries. Debussy will cruise the Seine. Mahler will embark on the Rhine, Main and Danube, between Amsterdam and Budapest. Bach will explore the Upper Middle Rhine Valley and the Moselle, and Ravel will travel on the Garonne and Dordogne.

CONTACT ROBYN 1300 763 299 ATAS-A10348

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THE GIFT OF FINANCIAL SECURITY GIVE YOUR FAMILY AND FRIENDS AN ONLINE COPY OF THE REALLY SIMPLE GUIDE TO MONEY

JUST

$5

moneytalk.com.au cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: AIRLINES

CRUISE PASSENGER REVIEW

BUSINESS as USUAL Does British Airlines live up to its motto, “To fly, to serve”?

Bernadette Chua checked in to the airline’s Club World business class to find out.

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he “kangaroo route” from Sydney to London is one of the most contested in the world. It is dominated by some of the biggest airlines, including Emirates, Singapore Airlines and Qantas.

Every one seeks a point of difference.

For Emirates, it’s the stopover in exotic Dubai. For Singapore, it’s the slim-waisted, fair-skinned Singapore Girl. And for Qantas, it’s fair dinkum service.

One of the veterans of the route, British Airways (BA), boasts “To fly, to serve” as

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its motto. But compared to its competitors, it could do with a bit more practice.

If you wondered where Hyacinth Bucket from TV’s Keeping Up Appearances had got to, she could be walking the aisles of a BA 777-300ER. And are you being served? Well, yes… in a very British way.

Airlines are introducing bigger and better amenities on their aircrafts to ensure passengers fly in the lap of luxury. While British Airways has revamped its Club World (business-class cabin), it is still

lacklustre compared with airlines such as Cathay Pacific, which has the largest fleet of 777-300ERs and has also revamped its business class.

SEATS While airlines such as Cathay Pacific have a business-class seat configuration of 1-2-1, British Airways has crammed in as many seats as it can with a 2-4-2 configuration.

The BA business seating is slightly puzzling with half the seats facing forward and the other half backwards. The best seats for solo travellers would be A, B, D, J or K. Seats E and F, which are in the centre and face the back of the plane, are good for couples who want to snuggle, but

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THE VERDICT Overall, the experience with British Airways was adequate and I arrived in London feeling refreshed, well fed and well rested. But “adequate” doesn’t really work when you’re paying $7,000 for a flight that costs less than $2,000 in economy. If I am looking for that little bit of luxury, I will be taking my dollars and purchasing a business class ticket with another airline. BA lacks the bells, whistles and designer toiletries of their competitors. And in business class, you just can’t afford to stint on anything.

FOOD Lunch is served on the first leg of my flight from Sydney to Singapore, while BA offers dinner and breakfast on the Singapore to London leg. For lunch and dinner, Club World passengers are served a starter, main and dessert. Starter choices include Tasmanian smoked salmon with salad or grilled eggplant with goats cheese.

Mains on offer are roast beef with potato gratin and Savoy cabbage or Thai fish curry with rice. Roast meat is extremely hard to get right on airlines and is often overcooked, but the chicken and fish options are extremely satisfying. Breakfast is heavy but delicious, with the airline serving muesli and yoghurt to start and

I expected from the land that gave us Upstairs Downstairs.

It was the older, more senior cabin crew who were the most attentive. Some could argue the staff were unobtrusive. But when asking for something from the Club Kitchen, I was told curtly that I could get up and get it myself. Not quite the Jeevesesque service I was expecting.

The star of the flight back from London to Singapore was a lovely Irish flight attendant named Sinead, who spoke to each guest on her aisle as we were about to arrive at Changi (Singapore). She was warm and friendly, and extremely attentive.

Some of the other cabin staff trudged up and down the aisles, ignoring passengers who tried to grab their attention.

BA Club World (clockwise from left): seats fold down to flat beds; couple-friendly central seats; snack bar; window seat; breakfast

awfully awkward if you’re seated next to a stranger on a long-haul flight.

On my flight to London, I was seated in 15D, which faced the front of the plane, so I had the luxury of being partitioned off from the passenger sitting in the middle seat. An electronic privacy screen can be lowered when the cabin crew serve food.

It’s great for privacy, but if the staff forget to put the screen back up, you and your neighbour may be gazing into each other’s eyes while you eat dinner.

The seats recline to flat beds, which is comfortable and spacious enough. There is room to wriggle around and there are lots of different settings, so if you want to watch a movie slightly reclined, that’s an option.

then a choice of a full English breakfast of sausages, bacon, grilled tomatoes and eggs, or eggs Benedict with an English muffin.

Pastries and Danishes are also offered.

If your tummy is still grumbling after all that food or if you fancy a midnight snack, you can help yourself to sandwiches, biscuits, chips, fresh fruit and drinks.

SERVICE As BA has crammed so many seats into its Club World, the service is slightly rushed, compared with other airlines such as Cathay Pacific, Singapore Airlines, Emirates, Qantas and many others which have fewer business-class passengers.

In fact, overall, BA service wasn’t what

LOUNGE A perk of flying Club World is access to BA’s lounge in Terminal 5 at London’s Heathrow Airport. If you are flying on from London and have a long layover, but not enough time to leave the airport, there are plenty of high-end luxury fashion stores such as Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Chanel and Gucci or if you need to pick up some last minute gifts, a branch of the very British Fortnum & Mason store.

The lounge has showers, a suit pressing service, free internet, food and a travel spa, which is open from 5am to 2pm. Major British and international newspapers are available, as well as a full business centre. cruisepassenger.com.au

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CRUISE PLUS: HOTELS

CRUISE PASSENGER REVIEW

WHY YOU’D CHOOSE THEM

Sister Act One historic, one modern, Singapore’s two Fullerton hotels both offer service and charm. Teresa Ooi compares the two.

FULLERTON HOTEL, 1 FULLERTON SQUARE, SINGAPORE

FULLERTON BAY HOTEL, 80 COLLYER QUAY, SINGAPORE

■ One of the best things about the Fullerton Hotel is that it is smack in the heart of Singapore’s bustling CBD. The heritage building with imposing Doric columns was completed in 1928 as Singapore’s General Post Office. Seventythree years later it was restored as a grand hotel with 400 rooms retaining its history. It is a short walk from Raffles Place, the Asian Civilisation Museum, the Esplanade and a Mass Rapid Transit station.

In sharp contrast, its nearby sister, Fullerton Bay Hotel (FBH), is contemporary and elegant with gob-smacking views of the water and the Marina Bay Sands twin towers. With only 100 rooms, it attracts chic, corporate guests.

shower and double marble vanity.

The joy of walking out of your room straight to The Straits Club for a complimentary champagne breakfast, afternoon tea or evening canapes and cocktails is hard to beat. I indulged in my favourite pan-fried turnip cake, a dim sum dish made of shredded Chinese radish and rice flour, washed down with teh tarik – black tea with evaporated milk. Perfect.

When we moved to the FBH, across the road, we stayed in a 58-square-metre Bay View room with a balcony. In the evening, you can sit in the Jacuzzi and watch sampans (boats) plying the water against the dramatic backdrop of Marina Bay Sands. Simply magical.

WHERE WE STAYED ■ At Fullerton Hotel, we had a Straits Club Quay room overlooking the Singapore River and swimming pool with direct access to the hotel’s executive club, The Straits Club. Our room was well appointed, but not spacious (38 square metres) due to heritage restraints. The bathroom had a bath, separate

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CRUISE PLUS: HOTELS WHERE WE ATE ■ We tried the Fullerton Hotel’s fine Chinese

restaurant, Jade, for dim sum. The steamed enoki mushroom with squid ink and bun with crabmeat were delicious. The wasabi bun with runny salted egg was interesting. Unlike other hotels’ noisy dim sum restaurants, the business crowd at Jade was measured and not at all loud and the service was attentive. Breakfast at FBH’s French bistro, La Brasserie, was superb with a wide choice of local, Japanese, Chinese and European staples. For lunch, FBH’s The Clifford Pier offered Singapore hawker-food favourites such as mee-goreng, char kway teow and rojak, which lacked the breathtaking spice often associated with these dishes. Still, the place was humming with tourists and locals, especially during the popular afternoon tea and weekend dim sum brunch.

WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? ■ Start early. Put on your

running shoes, shorts and t-shirt and head for a picturesque waterside walk from either hotel to Marina Bay Sands (MBS) and the Esplanade. With Singapore’s hot, humid weather, it is best to be out before 7am and back for breakfast before the sun beats down. To stay out of the midday sun, visit the National Gallery or Asian Civilisation Museum, or follow the Fullerton Heritage trail.

In the cool of the evening, take a short cab ride to Gardens by the Bay, a man-

made outdoor and indoor garden with a flower dome and cloud forest. You can also see a 1,000-year old olive tree from Spain. At night, the towering super-tree structures come to life with a spectacular light and sound show. We walked across to MBS to view the Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery exhibition at the Art Science Museum and were bowled over – nothing like exquisitely designed pendants, necklaces, rings and earrings from the old French jewellery house to rekindle a woman’s love affair with precious gems.

THE VERDICT If you enjoy immersing yourself in a bit of history, heritage and some razzamatazz, both hotels are ideal. The grand Fullerton is big on heritage while the Fullerton Bay is just too cool for words. They are both members of Preferred Hotels & Resorts luxury collections. Service is friendly and helpful, and the ambience is refreshingly charming. The local kopi (coffee) and teh tarik are excellent.

Find out more: A Straits Club Quay room at the Fullerton Hotel is priced from $467 a night with access to The Straits Club. A Bay View room at the Fullerton Bay Hotel costs from $729 a night including breakfast with complimentary local calls, internet and heritage tours. fullertonhotels.com

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CRUISE PLUS: DESTINATION

Shanghai

The only way to tackle Shanghai, the city that never sleeps, is to live life in the fast lane, writes Teresa Ooi.

Dining

We have lunch at Din Tai Fung, the international Taiwanese noodle and dumpling chain, in the affluent shopping and dining precinct of Xintiandi. The next night, we dine at a Shanghainese restaurant called Lao Zheng Xing, a delightful place with great wooden pillars, patronised by locals. We enjoy a popular sweet braised pork dish, a favourite of Chairman Mao, an eel dish and crab meat with vegetables, washed down with Suntory beer and huang jiu, a sticky rice wine.

Jin Mao Tower

The tower in Pudong, fronting the Huangpu River, featured in the James Bond movie Skyfall. At 88 storeys, it is the third tallest building in mainland China. There is an indoor observatory and an outdoor glass walkway at the top with a panoramic view. Tickets cost $77 each.

River cruise Jing’an Temple

Smack in the middle of the CBD, the Golden Peace Temple, or Jing’an, has a history stretching back more than 780 years. It was burnt down in 1972 and re-opened in 1990. Occupied by 200 Buddhist monks, it is popular with city workers looking for a bit of help from Buddha. To enter the temple, I am told to put my right foot forward first. For men, it’s left foot first. It’s Buddhism etiquette. Part of the temple is being refurbished and donations from the public have been widely sought.

They are not cheap: $120 for a tile and $560 for a roof tile.

An after-dark cruise shows the Bund at its best, with every building lit in neon and boats decked in coloured lights. It’s magical.

Nanjing Road

At 9pm, the shops on Shanghai’s busiest shopping street are still open.

With hundreds of people walking, chatting and milling around, you can’t help but feel energised. A cool dude dressed as a 1930s Al Capone mobster poses for photographs in front of a yellow vintage Cadillac.

Further down the street, people queue outside a noodle fast-food eatery. Next door, a cheap and cheerful clothing store offers lastminute bargains. This is Shanghai at its best – noisy and rowdy with loads of energy and bright neon lights.

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The writer was the guest of Wendy Wu Tours.

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49282 UT

SOFT ADVENTURE CRUISE AROUND

ARANUI CRUISES’ IS RENOWNED FOR ITS UNIQUE VOYAGES TO SOME OF THE MOST REMOTE ISLANDS IN THE WORLD, THE MARQUESAS ARCHIPELAGO Journey to islands where the interiors are often largely unexplored, matted by dense jungle and volcanic outcrops. Follow the paths of French impressionist, Paul Gauguin and Moby Dick author Herman Melville on a 14-day cruise as it links the remote Marquesas and Tuamotus with Tahiti and provides one of the few remaining authentic cargo ship experiences.

Aranui 5 offers a window into the lives of local villages as it delivers essential goods during the 3,000 km journey from Papeete. Be part of this exceptional adventure.

Picnic in Bora Bora

Highlights: 14 day cruise with all meals (French and Polynesian), onshore picnics and BBQs included Cruise to nine islands with 17 ports of call Maximum 254 passengers

Local Village Dances

All exterior cabins, over half with balconies Guided excursions to archeological and cultural sites, ancient tikis, local villages and historic churches

Tahuata

For further information e: info@aranuicruises.com.au p: (+61) 3 9449 3778 www.aranuicruises.com.au

Local multi-lingual tour guides (English, French and German) Visit Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel museums (entrance fee additional) 4WD sightseeing tour and hikes Meet local artisans; visit handicraft studios and a working pearl farm Traditional dance performances Optional activities: fishing, spa treatments, horse riding, swimming with sharks & rays.

D I S C O V E R

T H E

T H E

M A R Q U E S A S

A R A N U I

I S L A N D S

W A Y

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PORT REPORT

Wollongong The latest port to be added to the Australian cruise schedule offers sandy beaches, natural beauty and plenty of family fun.

O

ctober 30, 2016 was an historic day for Wollongong as Royal Caribbean’s Radiance of the Seas made her maiden call to Port Kembla. It was the first time a cruise ship had visited the south coast port, and the beginning of a new era.

Radiance was welcomed by a vintage Catalina flying boat, and locals turned out in force, with up to 400 volunteer guides, and dignitaries everywhere.

Passengers not getting a tour bus were taken to a welcome precinct in the city centre, where local and visiting attractions, such as the performing Bearded Bakers, were standing by.

The local tourist chief was so enraptured, he suggested to the local press that Wollongong could be a home port.

“Being located so conveniently to Sydney, 73 kilometres away, we’re able to facilitate very similar services to what they can facilitate in the Overseas Passenger Terminal in Sydney. Unfortunately we don’t have the Sydney Harbour Bridge or the Opera House but we have so much else to offer.”

Adam Armstrong, the managing director of Royal Caribbean in Australia and New Zealand, was also excited about the prospects for Wollongong.

Sandstone Garden, Sir Joseph Banks Glasshouse and The Australian Open Forest and Grasslands, Nan Tien Temple among others. There is The Fo Guang Shan Buddhist also a playground climbing order was founded in net, viewing platform Taiwan in 1967 and now has and a maze. It’s about more than 200 branches 12 kilometres from Port worldwide, including Kembla. wollongong.nsw.

Nan Tien Temple. The gov.au/botanicgarden temple aims to play a role in bridging Eastern and Jamberoo Action Park Western cultures. It’s about The fun water park has a eight kilometres from Port number of rides including Kembla. nantien.org.au The Perfect Storm, Funnel Web, Surf Hill and The Botanic Garden Taipan. There is also miniStroll through the golf, rides for younger Wollongong Botanic children and dining options.

Garden to see the Edible It’s about 23 kilometres from Herb Garden, Rose Garden, Port Kembla. jamberoo.net

What’s on offer in Wollongong?

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“We have been working towards our call to Wollongong for quite some time. Guests on board Radiance of the Seas had a wonderful day exploring the city and local area, making the dedication and hard work that’s gone into this project for the past two and a half years all worthwhile,” he said.

“This was the first of many visits to Wollongong: we have now scheduled four more calls over the next 18 months with the larger 3,800-guest megaliners Voyager of the Seas and Explorer of the Seas. In total, we expect to bring in more than 16,000 visitors and inject more than $2.8 million into the local economy.”

The loss of thousands of jobs associated with the steelworks and clothing industries has left the Wollongong region desperately searching for new industries. And the port wasn’t going to let an opportunity like this pass it by. The property council predicts the stop will inject $890,000 into the local economy.

Eden, on the far south coast, will welcome 14 luxury passenger cruise ships over the summer, and Wollongong wants a slice of the action.

Destination Wollongong said its port facilities were ready to go and did not need to be upgraded to handle the 293-metre-long Radiance of the Seas.

Beaches A stroll along one of Wollongong’s lovely beaches costs nothing and is ideal if time is short. There are a number of beaches including Kiama, Austinmer, Bellambi and Wolli, though the most popular are Wollongong and North Wollongong. If you have more time, surf schools conduct lessons. visitwollongong.com.au

Art Gallery Wollongong’s gallery features Australian, Aboriginal and Asian art.

The collection includes work by Arthur Streeton, Grace Cossington Smith, Margaret Olley and Clifford Possum Tjapaltjarri. wollongongartgallery.com Treetop adventures Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures includes a 1.5-kilometre walk through native rainforest on a steel walkway up to 50 metres above the forest floor. The Zipline Tour involves flying on a series of cable spans and suspension bridges. visitwollongong.com.au

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WORLD CRUISE CALENDAR PORT REPORT

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LAST WORD

Why little cruisers are such a big issue

clubs supposed to keep them busy and entertained? Are people who find rowdy behaviour intolerable merely intolerant?

Now that more than 1.5 million kids (18 and younger) are estimated to be cruising globally each year, we have to find a way to holiday in harmony. Banning under-18s from cruise ships is a little harsh, but it would help if parents laid down some basic courtesy rules (and we appreciate that most do).

We can’t expect the ships’ crews to police the cruise lines’ behavioural guidelines (and they do have them) and it shouldn’t be up to other passengers to admonish children for running around the main dining room (yes, another complaint).

If the only thing that works for you is a totally child-free cruise, there are a few ships that don’t allow under-18s aboard: Viking Ocean Cruises’ Viking Star and Viking

“People who whinge about kids having fun are just grumpy old gits.”

Sally Macmillan reaches for a flak jacket as she tackles the thorny question: should kids be banned from some cruise ships?

W

ell shiver my timbers, who knew that even chatting about kids behaving badly on cruises could be so incendiary?

A few online discussions on the subject brought up some furious reactions that could be pretty much divided into two camps: the parents of badly behaved children who claimed complainers should “put up and shut up”; and everyone else.

Oh and a third camp was bad old me, for even putting the question out there. So I’ll be wearing my flak jacket from now on.

Typical comments from camp one were, “They’re only children, for God’s sake – I’ve seen plenty of adults behaving badly” (haven’t we all) or, “It’s meant to be their holiday,” and even, “People who whinge about kids having fun are just grumpy old gits.”

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Those who had encountered spoilt, rude and unruly brats uniformly believed that out-of-control kids and teens were the result of poor parenting and that “ships are not kindergartens”.

Over the course of 30-plus cruises I’ve experienced, I haven’t witnessed any of the activities that these cruisers reported – but I am a parent who has taken boisterous sons on holiday and they weren’t always angels.

However, when you hear anecdotes about teens setting fire to deckchairs (must have been a while ago if the deckchairs were the wooden variety), eating ice-creams and pizza in whirlpools and leaving greasy bits behind, barging into adults-only pools, picking food out of the buffet with their hands, riding the lifts and blocking access to other passengers, running full-pelt along corridors and – the most common complaint – screaming and dive-bombing in pools, you have to wonder.

Are all those DayGlo water slides, chemically coloured soft drinks and sugar-filled junk food sending cruising kids into hyperactive frenzies? Aren’t kids’

Sea; P&O World Cruises’ Arcadia and Oriana; Saga Cruises’ Saga Pearl II and Saga Sapphire – exclusively for over-50s; and Voyages to Antiquity’s Aegean Odyssey, which is “unsuitable for children under the age of 12” and discourages under-16s.

Most small luxury ships aren’t suitable for children, either, and the fares aren’t conducive to family holidays, unless the family is exceptionally well-heeled.

If an adults-only or upmarket cruise isn’t viable, you may have to compromise. Avoid cruising during school holidays, in Australia and overseas. Skip megaships that are designed for families, or look for ships that have adults-only sun decks and pools, “ship within a ship” accommodation and facilities, and plenty of alternative dining venues.

Lastly, there’s a big difference between excited kids who are having fun and overexcited kids wreaking havoc. Enjoy the former and dob in the latter to their parents if it happens once too often.

Have you got a story about cruising kids?

Tell us at cruisepassenger.com.au

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Introducing new Great Northern Super Crisp Lager.

Designed with an easy going lifestyle in mind, with its mild fruity aroma, subtle bitterness and refreshingly light finish, it’s brewed specifically for the Australian climate.

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Cruise, Rail & Tour holidays

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