International flights to Milan returning from Rome
BONUS My Cruises VIP International Airport Lounge access^
BONUS 2 Night hotel stay to explore Milan
BONUS Scenic rail journey from Milan to Rome
BONUS 3 Night hotel stay to explore Rome
10 Night Greek Islands cruise onboard Norwegian Epic Onboard entertainment including live music and performances
BONUS Onboard prepaid gratuities
BONUS USD$200 Onboard spending credit
BONUS My Cruises package savings
Return international flights to London
BONUS 2 Night hotel stay to explore London
BONUS Transfer from London hotel to Southampton Port
12 Night Northern Lights and Norway Discovery cruise onboard Norwegian Star
BONUS Cruise above the Arctic Circle and visit Alta and Tromso with late nights in port for premium Northern Lights viewing opportunities
Onboard dining across a range of complimentary venues
Onboard entertainment including live music and performances
Onboard prepaid gratuities
BONUS My Cruises package savings
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06 Welcome
The enduring allure of Europe and why it will continue to captivate Australians.
08
Europe made easy
The hot 20 list of European holiday ideas to make your next trip is as enjoyable as it is easy.
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Shh… don’t tell Beautiful towns and beaches that remain undiscovered by tourists and are great value, too.
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Savour the imperial Baltic cities
A My Cruises package deal not to be missed.
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Summer blockbuster
Take the plunge with new destinations, itineraries and ships for cruise lovers in Europe.
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A new dawn for APT
The new river cruise ships from APT currently plying Europe’s scenic waterways.
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The stars are out
Now you can have a Michelinstar-rated stay, as well as a Michelin-star-rated meal.
26 Fit for a queen
We check in to The Goring Hotel in London to see how royalty like to holiday.
29 Portugal’s big heart
A city destination guide to the best of Lisbon’s sights, dining and shopping.
enduring ALLURE
Europe continues to hold a special place in the hearts of Australian travellers.
This enduring love a air transcends the occasional grumble about crowds and tourist traps. Our readers put Europe as their top overseas destination next to New Zealand – well ahead of Bali. In these pages, we explain why.
For many Australians, a trip to Europe isn’t just about ticking destinations o a bucket list; it’s a journey of rediscovering their roots. Australia boasts a vibrant multicultural mix, with a significant portion of the population tracing their ancestry back to European nations. Walking the cobbled streets of a village your grandparents once called home, or standing in the shadow of a centuries-old cathedral your ancestors might have
worshipped in, is an experience that transcends sightseeing and becomes a deeply personal pilgrimage.
Europe’s rich tapestry of history is also a major drawcard for Australians. From the awe-inspiring ruins of ancient Greece and Rome to the majestic medieval castles dotting the landscape, the continent whispers stories of bygone eras.
Australians are captivated by the chance to stand in the very places that shaped the Western world, to imagine the lives of those who came before them.
And let’s not forget the undeniable allure of European fashion. From Paris’s chic boutiques to Milan’s high-end designer havens, Europe is a shopper’s paradise.
/ Embracing the shoulder seasons
The savvy traveller of today understands that peak season Europe can be a doubleedged sword. While sunshine and balmy
temperatures are a plus, they often come with overcrowded sights and inflated prices. Australians are increasingly embracing the shoulder seasons – spring and autumn – as ideal times to visit. These periods o er pleasant weather, fewer crowds and, often, lower travel costs.
And the adventurous Aussie spirit doesn’t shy away from venturing beyond the typical tourist season. Winter in Europe unveils a magical wonderland. Imagine strolling through a snow-dusted Prague, the iconic Charles Bridge sparkling under a blanket of white, or nestled in a cosy chalet after a day skiing in the Swiss Alps. Winter travel unveils a di erent side to the continent’s charm.
Cruising in Europe has particular benefits. For a start, an all-inclusive luxury cruise is a hard-headed economic decision. It’s impossible to find a land tour, with hotel stays, meals and travel, that can
match the price. It certainly won’t match the value and sheer convenience.
European river cruising through the heart of some of the world’s most desirable cities, unpacking only once and seeing the sights from the convenience of a floating hotel is unbeatable.
For those seeking an elevated travel experience, Europe knows luxury like no other place and caters to a discerning clientele. Luxury travel advisors and companies are adept at crafting exclusive itineraries that go beyond the typical tourist trail. Imagine private tours of iconic museums before they open to the public, or exclusive access to historic landmarks outside of regular visiting hours. These experiences come with a price tag, but for those with the means, they offer an unparalleled opportunity to immerse oneself in the history and culture of Europe without the usual crowds.
Prepare for a Magnifique Paris 2024
• The City of Lights is gearing up for a global spectacle. The 2024 Summer Olympics, held from July 26 to August 11, promises to be a unique experience for tourists seeking a blend of world-class sporting action and Parisian charm.
* Unmissable Europe
Left: Tourists flock to capture Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus” in the Uffizi, Florence. Above (illustration): For the first time in history, the Olympic opening ceremony is to be held outside the stadium setting, on the Seine.
It’s important to acknowledge the growing concern around overtourism in some European destinations. Australians are increasingly opting for responsible travel practices. This might involve choosing destinations that haven’t yet succumbed to the tourist hordes, or opting to use sustainable travel options like local public transport and eco-conscious hotels.
Europe’s enduring allure for Australians is a complex tapestry of familial ties, a rich history, and the undeniable pull of a continent steeped in beauty and style.
The savvy traveller of today understands that Europe can be enjoyed year-round.
A trip to Europe remains a transformative experience for many Australians, a chance to connect with heritage, explore a captivating history and indulge in the finer things in life. «
Peter
Lynch, editor-in-chief and publisher
Unlike traditional Games with centralised venues, Paris embraces the “Games in the City” concept. Witness events unfold near iconic landmarks like the Eiffel Tower. Imagine cheering on marathon runners speeding down the Avenue des Champs-Élysées or cyclists racing alongside the Seine!
There will be over 300 events across 32 sports. Catch the high-octane action of athletics, swimming or gymnastics. Witness the grace of ballet incorporated into artistic swimming for the first time. Don’t miss surfing making its Olympic debut on temporary waves built near the Stade de France.
But this is Paris – so expect a vibrant cultural program of French music, art and dance. The opening ceremony promises to be a spectacular display on the Seine. Explore cultural events alongside the Games, immersing yourself in the energy and passion of Paris.
Paris anticipates a surge in visitors. So, if you are considering it, book your accommodation in advance. Public transport will be heavily relied upon, with potential delays due to increased traffic. Be prepared for potential security measures around event areas, similar to airport security.
Be patient. Certain tourist attractions near event locations might have restricted access. Popular walking tours may have altered routes. However, this presents an opportunity to explore lesser-known parts of Paris and discover hidden gems. Embrace the unique atmosphere and immerse yourself in the Olympic spirit.
Oh, and one more thing: being an Olympic city usually means a tourist boom in the following 12 months. If you are considering France in 2025, now’s the time to book.
For ticket information, visit tickets.paris2024.org/en/.
Europe made easy
The top tips on how to make your European holiday as easy as one, two… twenty, writes Louise Goldsbury.
The key to enjoying Europe is tracking down the o -peak options, alternatives to crowded destinations, and smoother modes of transport, such as cruises, train journeys and small-group tours. Here’s our picks.
1. Orient Express turns Italian
• A luxurious locomotive is bringing the good life to Italy. La Dolce Vita Orient Express will debut in 2025, capturing the golden age of Italian design. Among the eight short itineraries is a two-night round-trip from Rome to Venice and Portofino. Regional cuisine is served in the dining carriage, with comfortable accommodation in deluxe and suite cabins. orient-express.com
2. Albanian Riviera
• One of the most underrated and leasttouristed parts of Europe, the Albanian Riviera has uncrowded beaches with the same clear turquoise water as the Mediterranean. Trek along the coastline and go hiking in Llogara National Park on a seven-night ‘Albania’s Ionian Coast’ self-guided tour, curated by Europe Holidays. Accommodation, some meals and airport transfers are included. europeholidays.com.au
3. Swimming with orcas
• From November to January, the world’s largest gathering of orcas takes place in the Troms/Finnmark region of far north Norway. Expedition trips take guests to observe and swim with the whales in their own habitat (no diving certification required). Choose from three or six days on a 12-passenger liveaboard boat with a team of expert guides. orcanorway.info
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4. Bucket list cruise
• My Cruises’ 14-night ‘Bucket List’ land-and-sea holiday ticks o Italy, Croatia and the Greek Islands. Departing August 2025, the package includes international return flights, a seven-night cruise aboard Voyager of the Seas via Split, Dubrovnik, Mykonos and Santorini (pictured above), hotels in Milan, Venice and Athens, scenic rail journeys and sightseeing Lake Como. mycruises.com.au
5. Winter in the Dolomites
• In preparation for the Milano-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics (February 6-22), several alpine resorts are set to be renovated or rebranded, such as Cristallo Hotel’s conversion into a Mandarin Oriental. The First Hotel Cortina (pictured left), formerly the Hotel Splendid Venezia, is also scheduled to open in late 2025 with 63 rooms overlooking the Dolomites National Park. Only five minutes by shuttle bus to the ski lifts, it will o er rooftop dining, a terrace bar and a wellness centre comprising an indoor spa pool, sauna, hammam and dry float therapy bed. pavilionshotels.com
6. Lapland in the Arctic Circle
• Albatross Tours’ nine-day ‘Northern Lights, Ice Hotels and Huskies’ adventure includes two nights at the famous Ice Hotel
in Sweden, two nights at the Santa Claus Holiday Village, and another two nights at the Kemi Seaside Glass Villas in Finland. Go reindeer sledding, drive a snowmobile, try snowshoeing, dine in forest cabins, and meet the Sami people. Bookended by stays in Helsinki and Stockholm, the ultimate goal of this escorted trip is to see the aurora borealis. Two departures are o ered in February and March 2025. albatrosstours.com.au
7. Off-peak chalet stays
• Luxury Chalet Company has collated the best places to stay in the mountains beyond the ski season. Choose from Swiss, Italian, Austrian or French Alps, and search by amenities such as chalets with cinemas or hot tubs. In summer, Europe’s lush peaks provide hiking and biking trails, lakes and streams for a cooling dip, and thrilling sports from rafting to paragliding. luxurychaletco.com
8. Walk the Camino
• Follow the Camino trail in northern Spain, one of the ultimate walking experiences, to reach the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral (pictured above) on foot. Hiking is self-guided, using UTrack’s route notes and maps, staying in manor houses and paradors along the way. Meals and luggage transfers are also included so you don’t need to carry a heavy backpack. utracks.com
9. Sparty time
• Budapest’s famous Széchenyi Baths (pictured above) are packed with tourists swirling around its mineral waters every day, but the real fun happens at the
Saturday night ‘Sparty’. Younger travellers will appreciate the dance music, lasers and acrobatic performances. Tickets from €59.
10. Eastern Europe pampering
• A ordable luxury spa treatments can be found in Poland, Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary, Slovakia and the Czech Republic. The largest spa in Europe is Therme Bucharest, filled with one million plants, 10 saunas, 10 pools, 16 waterslides and the largest urban beach on the continent. Purchase a one-day pass for about $60, which includes daily activities such as clay masks and scrub rituals. Accommodation deals are available at partner hotels. therme.ro
11. Intimate Irish
• From Belfast to Shannon, this 12-day ‘Ultimate Ireland’ guided holiday explores the country’s dining and sights, including the Ring of Kerry and the Blarney Stone. Enjoy farm-to-table meals, a private tour of Giant’s Causeway, see the Titanic shipyards and walk across the drawbridge at Ashford Castle, escorted by a piper. Luxury Gold provides concierge service and door-to-door transfers on this small-group tour. luxurygold.com.au
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12. Swiss alps adventure
• APT’s 13-day ‘Switzerland by Rail’ journey covers the country aboard the Glacier Express, Golden Pass and Bernina Express. From Zurich to Geneva, marvel at the mountain scenery as these slow-moving trains squeeze through narrow valleys and tunnels and cross hundreds of bridges. Accompanied by a tour director, the trip includes accommodation, most meals, transfers, gratuities, a wine experience in Lugano and luggage delivery. Departures are available June-September 2025. aptouring.com.au
13. Grand voyage
• Ponant’s Le Lapérouse sets sail on a 26-night ‘Grand Voyage – Helsinki to Lisbon’ via 12 countries including Finland, the Netherlands, UK, France, Spain and Portugal. The itinerary features four UNESCO sites, a presentation with former Polish President Lech Wałęsa in Gdansk and discussions with Smithsonian Journey’s experts. With complimentary excursions at 24 ports of call, guests can explore the Hanseatic League cities and
see sites like Mont-Saint-Michel, Omaha Beach and the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao (pictured bottom). The cruise departs August 13, 2025. ponant.com
14. Artsy Amsterdam
• Amsterdam’s grand dame, De L’Europe (pictured below), established in 1896, has
turned a whole wing of the hotel into ‘t Huys (meaning ‘the house’). The collection of 16 suites was curated by leading Dutch creatives, from couturier Ronald van der Kemp to jewellery designer Bibi van der Velden, themed in the worlds of art, film or fashion. The Van Gogh Suite is a masterpiece with a gallery of copies of the artist’s sketches. deleurope.com/t-huys
15. Cretan icon reopens
• The family-run Blue Palace (pictured above) has relaunched as two distinct o erings: the Phaea Blue Palace boutique hotel, which opened in May 2024, and the ultra-luxury Rosewood Blue Palace, set to debut in 2025. Phāea Blue Palace’s 47 bungalows and suites have a new heritagefocused look with fresh touches by local designers and artists, while the threebedroom villa has been enhanced with a private butler and chef on hand. bluepalace.gr
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Diving Malta
• Malta’s Tower Wreck site (pictured right), near the remains of a 17th-century watch tower in Xlendi bay, is transforming into the world’s first deep-water archaeological park. Located off Gozo’s coast, this massive site has been documented to create a virtual 3D record of its submerged wonders, from ancient shipwrecks to vibrant reefs. Divers can discover artefacts dating back 2300 years, while non-divers can see the images via the virtual museum. underwatermalta.org/discover/tower-wreck/
17. Athens Riviera
• No need to hop around by ferry for the island vibes. On the mainland of Greece, 91 Athens Riviera has 28 glamping cabanas surrounding an exclusive beach club, sports centre, tennis courts, day spa and fine dining. This hybrid model of luxury accommodation and holistic lifestyle experiences is a unique concept for the location, within walking distance of two beaches and yet close to the city’s ancient attractions. domesresorts.com/91athensrivieratheresort
18. Rise above Lisbon
• Known as the city of seven hills, Lisbon has installed a funicular that carries passengers up the steepest streets, connecting Graça to the Moorish quarter of Mouraria. The new Graça Funicular follows the opening of the Royal Treasury Museum, which has more than 1000
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pieces of jewellery and gold on display. The museum is housed within a vault inside the Palácio Nacional da Ajuda, the former home to the last kings of Portugal. visitlisboa.com
19. Notre Dame update
• After its devastating fire in 2019, Notre Dame Cathedral (above) will welcome back visitors by December, although the full
reconstruction is not expected to be completed until next year. The epic project includes a makeover of the grounds, adding a park, underground walkway and archaeological museum. Until then, the public can stroll through an exhibition about the construction site, located in a basement in front of the cathedral. notredamedeparis.fr
20. Total eclipse at sea
• The next total solar eclipse occurs August 12, 2026, falling over Greenland, Iceland and parts of Spain, Portugal and the UK. Princess Cruises, Cunard and Holland America Line are planning sailings around the event, placing passengers in the best vantage spots – far from the artificial light of land and with ships ready to sail to another site if the sky is cloudy. Bookings are open now with each cruise line. «
shh... DON’T TELL
There are still beautiful towns and beaches in Europe that are undiscovered. And they’re even great value. Amanda Hyde reveals all – but keep it to yourself.
At certain dinner parties, listing the destinations you’ve visited has become a competitive sport. Dubrovnik? Done it. Positano? Spent a summer. St Tropez? Bought the T-shirt. Despite this, some of Europe’s most beautiful beaches and seaside villages are hidden far away from the tick-o resorts, where tourists and prices are sky-high. There are towns where swathes of empty sand come backed by a sleepy beach bar or two and islands with little harbours full of bijou B&Bs and trailing paths that join the dots between empty coves.
If you’re after better value for money and unexpectedly stunning scenery, these are the places to make for. And we’ve found 10 of the best secret coastal stays. Just don’t tell the other dinner party guests…
/ Greece: The Pelion Peninsula
Forget the islands: for Greek peace and quiet, it’s best to stay on the mainland. The Pelion Peninsula is a five-hour drive from Athens. The out-of-the-way location may partly explain why it’s escaped the
full-beam attention of holidaymakers, despite having at least a week’s worth of sleepy villages to explore, as well as hiking trails along old mule tracks and an east coast where spectacular beaches sit shoulder to shoulder in the shadow of Mount Pelion (once thought to be the summer residence of the Olympian gods).
This region’s landscape is every bit as pretty as the islands. Sugarcube houses tumble down from the mountains, looking out towards Skiathos on a hazy horizon. But without the tourists, there are none of the mega-resorts. Instead, holidaymakers make for little fishing villages such as Katigiorgis, where a few tavernas, cafés and apartments cluster by the sand.
You can fish here or book horse-riding trips into the countryside, though more straightforward sun-worshippers might prefer Agios Ioannis and Papa Nero where the white sand is as busy as this region gets and the water is so clear you can see fish darting between your feet. Behind them, paths twist upwards between the trees towards hilltop villages, passing dancing
streams and waterfalls en route. Book it: Several tour companies o er seven-night, self-guided walks on the Pelion Peninsula where accommodation is booked for you. Trips take in trails, beaches and isolated villages.
/ Italy: Calabria
Mafia legends and a rather arduous journey seem to have kept Brits away from the toe of Italy, a wild place of wolf-inhabited forest and rugged stretches of sand. While Tuscany and the Cinque Terre fill to the brim in July and August, Calabria’s bath-warm water and cactus-smattered coastline are popular with Italian visitors – but a bit of a secret for everyone else. The driving here is just as good as the Italian Riviera. Calabria’s coastal roads curve between the cli s and the sparkle of the sea and link some of its best sites along the way. About a 20-minute drive from Tropea (the region’s biggest and brashest resort), the serene beaches of Capo Vaticano top lists of the world’s best with good reason: there’s reef below the
Greece: The Pelion Peninsula
neon-blue water line, golden sand between dramatic granite boulders and views towards the Aeolian Islands and Stromboli’s smouldering volcano.
Drive 40 minutes further and you reach the town of Scilla, which hugs the coast in a flurry of sorbet-coloured terraces topped by an ancient fortress (hard to believe it got its name from the nymph Scylla, transformed into a monster by Circe in Greek mythology and destined to terrify sailors as they journeyed along the coast).
Don’t leave before trying the town’s famous swordfish sandwich, topped with rocket, lemon and sea salt. Right by the water, Civico 5 is famed across Italy for its popular version.
Book it: Four-star Baia del Sole on Capo Vaticano, in the province of Ricadi, has double rooms from €140, or from $230, including breakfast. See baiadelsole.com.
/ Portugal: Costa Verde
While the Algarve and Comporta draw the English, Portuguese holidaymakers love the north-western corner of their country on the border with Spain (not far, in fact, from Galicia’s beaches, see below). Here, the pace of life is relaxingly lazy, there are vineyards and inland towns to explore and blustery beach resorts serve up surf lessons and sandy boardwalks that clamber between the dunes.
Most enticing of all is Viana do Castelo, a monument-strewn port around an hour’s drive north of Porto. There’s so much to see here that its secret status is something of a mystery. The grand old town comes with huge mansions and delicate fountains, there’s a hulking great early 20th-century cathedral and a bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel – and then there’s the crescent of Praia do Cabedelo which sweeps southwards to the energising hammer of Atlantic waves. Nights are for sunset dinners overlooking Praia da Amorosa: clams, crabs and grilled fish are as fresh as it gets at Restaurante Tasca Do Gomes.
Three-quarters of an hour inland, the city of Braga is worth a day trip for its perfectly preserved old town and the Baroque sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte, looking down on its sprawl from blossoming gardens. On the way back, cool off on the Blue Flag river beach of Praia Fluvial de Merelim São Paio, where a criss-cross of paths leads to wild swimming areas. There’s a picnic spot and playground too.
Book it: Ten minutes north of Viana do Castelo, Villa Homem in the village of Afife has its own dramatic, dune-backed bit of sand. It costs from $6900 for up to 12 people. Book through oliverstravels.com.
/ Spain: Vigo
Southern Spain swelters in summer, which is why its residents increasingly make for cooler, greener Galicia. This north-western region is fast gaining popularity among foreigners too: in 2023, searches for local city Vigo shot up more percentage points than any other European destination, according to Skyscanner.
For now, though, Galicia’s beaches are largely foreign-tourist-free and there are plenty to choose from: the region has 1600 kilometres of coastline. Refreshing and cool, just like the albariño it produces, the Rias Baixas wine region is a place where old fishing villages and towns stretch up towards Portugal and the three dots of the Cíes islands glimmer offshore. It’s here, in national parkland, that the best beaches are to be found.
They’re so protected that visitor numbers are capped during Easter and high season, so it pays to book ferry tickets in advance. Figueiras may be the most
beautiful (a milk-white stretch backed by dense forest) but as it’s also a nudist beach, only the bravest visit. Alternatively, Rodas is right by the ferry pier, a wide curve backed by dunes and bookended by hills.
Back on the mainland, the town of Baiona is a medieval stop-off on the Camino de Santiago and comes filled with buzzy backstreets where restaurants serve Galician specialities such as cuttlefish stew. It has its own rather spectacular city beach too, Ladeira.
Book it: A 10-minute drive from Baiona, two-bedroom O Eido das Presas is hidden among the intense green of those rainedon fields. Priced from $5500 per week, book through vintagetravel.co.uk.
/ France: The Calanques
French people, with their penchant for hiking, love the Calanques (rocky, limestone inlets) that stretch east from Marseille towards Toulon before the flashy stretch of the Riviera where visitor numbers are at their highest. You don’t have to go far from the country’s most manic city to find pine-fringed peace – but you will need walking boots.
It’s an hour’s scramble along the GR98-51 trail from Callelongue, where Marseille peters out, towards the sandy cove of Marseilleveyre. At this little beach, the water is tinged deepest forest green and hazy views stretch to the islands of the Riou archipelago. There are plenty of other coves and inlets to explore here, if you can stomach the hikes to get to them.
No less beautiful, the beaches around the resort town of Saint Cyr sur Mer (around an hour’s drive east) are easier to access. Port d’Alon, where salt and pine
Italy: Calabria
Portugal: Costa Verde
mingle in the air and cactuses sprout from the ground, is as magical as the south of France gets – with the added bonus of its own car park. From here, it’s a quick drive to the sleepy harbour of La Madrague, where villas climb up the hillside and cicadas sing on the breeze.
Book it: Stay in one of the apartments at Hapimag La Madrague (hapimag.com) for sunset views over the water, as well as a pool, boules court and tranquil restaurant under the trees (from about $720 per week based on two sharing, room only).
/ Croatia: Lastovo
While Croatia’s best-known sites struggle with over-tourism, the island of Lastovo seems almost to have avoided visitors altogether. Once used as an army base and closed to tourists until 1988, this Adriatic dollop has now been designated a natural park – but a three-hour ferry ride to reach it from Split or Dubrovnik has kept visitors away (though it is quicker to access from Korcula).
In winter, winds speed furiously along its craggy coastline and storms batter the forests of its interior but, between July and September, Lastovo is the ideal place to get away from it all. Sun-dappled trails ring the cliffs and the air echoes with birdsong and the calls of crickets while little coves make perfect pit stops for picnics and snorkelling (rent a scooter from the tourist office to hop between them).
Perhaps the prettiest is Jurjeva Luka, a pebbly squiggle cosseted by gentle hills that shelter the still water from squalls. Away from the beaches, the tiny town of Lastovo clambers steeply up a hillside towards its 14th-century church, surrounded by the vines that produce the island’s wine.
Food shouldn’t disappoint either. The local speciality? Lobster, caught from the waters around the island and cooked over
hot coals or served with spaghetti. It’s particularly good at Triton, a restaurant in pretty Zaklopatica that’s popular with the yachting crowd.
Book it: Stayz.com.au has a two-bedroom beach house on Lastovo with private boat dock and kayaks, sleeping up to six people (property number: 4264778). The average price is $643 per night.
/ Turkey: Alaçati
Flower-filled Alaçati isn’t exactly off the beaten track, but most British visitors give it a wide berth, preferring to stick to the resorts around Bodrum and Fethiye. Quite why is a mystery: Alaçati’s photogenic old town is happily devoid of the showy glitz of the former and the brash bars of the latter, filled with stone terraces trimmed in sky-blue shutters and perfumed with orange blossom.
It’s no wonder Turkish weekenders visit in the summer, when the narrow streets are filled with street markets and live music (expect prices to match Alaçati’s popularity). Designer shops, posh restaurants and cosmopolitan cafés are all easy to find here – as are characterful boutique hotels carved out of its old stone houses (Alavya, where cool rooms are set in a cluster of terraces around a serene pool, is the best of all).
The one thing that seems to be missing at first glance is a beach.
For that, you need to drive 10 minutes to the sugary stretch of sand at Ilica, which comes backed by glam second homes. Or make for the sleepy port of Ceşme, from where you can take a boat to the Greek island of Chios for a beach day with a difference or eat at one of the tavernas on the harbourside.
Book it: The lovely Alavya hotel in Alaçati is spread across six houses with a total of 25 rooms. It costs from €550 ($900) per night.
/ Germany: Sylt
Travel journalists have been banging on about Sylt being the next big thing for decades. So far, nobody seems to have listened. The Germans knew it all along though, so you’ll find plenty of domestic tourists on the island’s blustery beaches.
In the 1960s, this was as debauched as seaside resorts got. Brigitte Bardot spent long nights partying here with her then-husband, the playboy Gunter Sachs. But all hedonists grow old eventually, including Sylt which has now earned the moniker “the Hamptons of Hamburg”.
What it lacks in balmy weather, Sylt makes up for in Michelin-starred restaurants, swish hotels and seemingly endless swathes of dune-backed sand set between 12 villages. Still, with the Hamptons tag in mind, the island capital of Westerland, with its bleak tower blocks and shops housed behind kitschy castlelike facades, is a little disappointing.
Instead, head north to Kampen, where the gold-tinged landscape glimmers under vast skies and you can take the flat road towards Vogelkoje, a chalet restaurant hidden in a flowery garden that serves up new takes on meaty Bavarian classics. Also in Kampen are a handful of Hamptons-like hotels in old thatched or tiled mansions.
Book it: Try Hotel Village (village-kampen. de) for cottage-core bedrooms and a cute garden (doubles from $587 per night). «
Turkey: Alaçati
Germany: Sylt
by Steve
Italy −
Photo
McCurry
MY CRUISES
savour the imperial BALTIC cities
Thinking about a Baltic getaway with Oceania Cruises?
You can stay, fly and cruise for as little as $687 per night, writes Teresa Ooi.
If you are dreaming of the joys of exploring the Baltic cities of Northern Europe, as well as cosmopolitan Amsterdam and London, look no further than Australia’s number one cruise agency, My Cruises.
The travel experts at My Cruises have put together an unbeatable 16-night luxury fly, stay and cruise holiday with $4000 BONUS VALUE, exclusive to My Cruises customers. The VIP package combines a voyage on board Oceania Vista with flights, private airport lounge access, premium private transfers and pre-and-post hotel stays. And it’s all arranged for you by the My Cruises team.
For an average cost of $687 per person, per night, the package begins with a two-night hotel stay at a luxury hotel in Stockholm. Then, there’s a 12-night cruise on Oceania Vista, the newest jewel in the leading culinary cruise line’s fleet, with all-inclusive onboard dining, beverages and exclusive services. Conclude your cruise with two nights at a hand-selected hotel in London.
Your Baltic adventure kicks off in Stockholm, often called the “Venice of Scandinavia”, on 9 July 2025. Spend two nights in this picture-perfect city, walking the cobbled streets and admiring the centuries-old buildings of Gamla Stan. Learn about Sweden’s history at the world’s oldest open-air museum, Skansen.
You will then embark on your 12-night cruise aboard Oceania Vista. The newly launched ship will stun you with its amazing interiors, personalised service and the finest cuisine at sea. Spoil yourself with a body or facial massage at Aquamar Spa + Vitality Centre, or take a hands-on cooking class at the Culinary Centre.
You can expect to dine well on Oceania Vista whether it’s in the ship’s Grand Dining room, specialty fine Italian restaurant Toscana, al fresco at the Terrace Café or in the Pan-Asian Red Ginger. Head to Horizons lounge for
Oceania’s celebratory afternoon tea with finger sandwiches and sinful desserts; or enjoy pizza at the poolside Waves Grill.
You will sail first to Estonia’s capital of Tallinn where you can enjoy the refreshing, fairytale charm of the walled Old Town as you wander the medieval streets of the Gothic Town Hall Square, and turn back time at the Estonian Open Air Museum.
Your next stop, Riga, Latvia’s capital city, is regarded as the cultural hub of Europe with countless museums and concert halls. In the evening, watch the city come to life at some of the cool bars and nightclubs in Livu Square.
The next day, you can explore the immaculately preserved medieval fort in Sweden’s town of Visby, which is also home to the extravagant St Mary’s cathedral, and St Nicolai and St Karin churches.
* Trip of a lifetime Clockwise, from above left: Tallinn, Estonia; Oslo, Norway; Oceania Vista’s Waves Grill; Oceania Vista at sea.
Next up is Copenhagen, the lively capital city of Denmark, teeming with history and interesting architectural styles. You will be blown away by the colourful row of houses at Nyhavn and the opulence of Rosenborg Castle.
In sharp contrast, your next port of call is Denmark’s university city Aarhus, which has a laid-back vibe and an eclectic mix of architectural styles.
On Day 10, Vista will arrive in Oslo, Norway, a city surrounded by mountains and the sea. Make sure you explore the medieval Akershus Fortress and the world’s best-preserved Viking ships at the Viking Ship Museum.
After a day at sea, you will arrive in Amsterdam with its canals, vibrant culture and architectural diversity. Meander through the charming neighbourhoods, take a bike ride or explore Anne Frank House.
On Day 15, you arrive in Southampton where you disembark and are taken to your London hotel. Use your time to soak up the history, fashion, art and culture of London’s eclectic mix of old and new. See a show in the West End followed by a pub meal. Indulge in some serious retail therapy at Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Harrods and boutiques in the side streets nearby – you will not regret it. «
Book it
Fares for your 16-night fly, stay and cruise holiday with My Cruises start from $10,990 per person, twin share. Chat to the My Cruise experts on 1300 859 719 or visit mycruises.com.au/package/ oceania-luxury-jewels-of-amsterdamlondon-the-imperial-baltic-cities-2025/
With new destinations, itineraries and ships, 2025 is shaping up to be a big season for cruise lovers looking for a European getaway, writes Tallis Boerne Marcus.
* Soaking up the atmosphere
summer blockbuster
Clockwise, from below: Exploring Barcelona; Zodiac trips off Patmos, Greece; biking tours of Austria’s Engelhartszell; on Le Lapérouse
Europe is shaping up for a blockbuster 2025 season with some exciting new arrivals and innovative luxury offerings.
Regent Seven Seas is adding a new dimension to its European voyages, with its Immersive Overnights program set to begin in October 2024, with seven different featured voyages. The program aims to increase destination immersion, with each port of call featuring an overnight stay.
The cruises will also have specially curated night-time shore excursions. The seven featured cruises span from seven to 14 nights, and the latest offering is a Sunset Over Tuscany sailing on Seven Seas Mariner. This sailing will feature overnight stays in Valletta, Naples, Tuscany and Provence, with specially curated shore excursions such as a sunset wine tasting and dinner at a Tuscan Villa and a sunset excursion to Florence.
Other itineraries include Croatian Elegance and Trendy Nightlife, with the chance to explore Hvar by night; Adriatic Tapestry, which focuses on Montenegro and Croatia; and Ancient Marvels of the Peloponnese, with immersive dives into Epidaurus, Mycenae and Corinth.
Other luxury lines are also turning towards longer and more immersive voyages. For example, luxury line Ponant noticed that Aussies are looking for longer stays after making the long trek to Europe, and for 2025 will be serving travellers exactly those.
General Manager of Sales and Marketing for Asia Pacific Deb Corbett says, “These extended journeys enable them to immerse themselves in the wonders of Europe, exploring its diverse landscapes, cultures and history amplified by Ponant’s small-ship access to ports and areas that larger vessels or land travel cannot reach.”
The best thing about these sailings is that there are ports of call almost daily. Guests might opt for the Antalya to Venice itinerary, with 15 nights on L’Austral. This cruise will visit 16 ports Turkey, Greece, Croatia, Slovenia and Italy, starting from $11,966 per person.
Another option is a 29-night sailing, also on L’Austral, from Lisbon to Antalya. Starting from $23,822 this cruise will visit 28 ports of call across Portugal, Morocco, Spain, Italy, Malta, Greece and Turkey.
For something almost as long, guests can enjoy 26 nights on Le Lapérouse, with fares starting from $25,105. This cruise will hit 24 ports of call across 12 countries, including Finland, the Netherlands, the UK, France, Spain and Portugal.
Another exciting development for the 2025 European cruise season is the arrival of Disney Fantasy, which will reside in Europe from May to late July, offering a series of itineraries from five to 12 nights out of Barcelona and Rome. This includes a special 12-night sailing through the Greek Isles, which will also feature a season-exclusive stop in Valletta, Malta.
This isn’t the first-ever visit to Europe for Disney Cruise Line, but it is the first visit for Disney Fantasy, a fan-favourite ship. Disney Fantasy packs in 4000 passengers at full capacity and serves as the sister ship to Disney Dream
Navigating which cruise line to pick in Europe can be tricky, and ultimately comes down to what type of holiday you and the rest of your travel party are looking for.
“These extended journeys enable them to immerse themselves in the wonders of Europe.”
Which cruise line is for you
Here’s a quick summary of some of the best lines sailing Europe in 2025, and which cruise line might be the right fit for you.
REGENT SEVEN SEAS
Why them? A cruise with Regent Seven Seas will cost you a pretty penny, but you’ll get what you pay for. The cruises are absolutely unrivalled in the level of luxury offered and if you want to mix a European holiday with an indulgence in the finer things in life, there’s no better cruise line for you.
Featured itinerary: Sunset Over Tuscany – Trieste to Barcelona –22 October 2025 – 12 nights –Seven Seas Mariner
PONANT
Why them? Ponant provides luxury with an extra dose of exploration. Small ships allow for easy navigation into the tuckedaway and hidden corners of Europe, free from the usual crowds. With an extra focus on immersion for the 2025 season, guests know they’re maximising opportunities for sightseeing and exploration, with ports of call nearly every day of the cruise.
Featured itinerary: Grand Voyage
– Lisbon to Antalya – April 18, 2025 – 29 nights – L’Austral
CELEBRITY CRUISES
Why them? Celebrity is more affordable than the luxury lines, but still offers high-scale onboard experiences. Celebrity’s ships are very well designed to offer great vantage points from which to view ports and waterways, which makes cruising through the beauty of Europe an idyllic experience.
Featured itinerary: Best of Greece – Athens roundtrip – multiple dates – 10 nights – Celebrity Infinity.
ROYAL CARIBBEAN
Why them? Royal Caribbean has its reputation as the family line for
a reason: it has exceptional facilities for younger cruisers. Its childcare programs are great, so if you want as much time as possible to unwind and soak up the ship while your kids play, Royal is the way to go.
Featured itinerary: Western Mediterranean Cruise – Barcelona roundtrip – multiple dates – 7 nights – Allure of the Seas
NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE
Why them? While Norwegian Cruise Lines has plenty to recommend itself to anyone, NCL has been particularly renowned lately for its offers for solo travellers. Beyond special promotions and no single supplements on certain cruises, the ships have dedicated areas *
Mediterranean voyages
From top: Sailing off Corsica with Ponant on L’Austral; Regent Seven Seas’ ‘Sunset Over Tuscany’ cruise.
and activities for solo travellers to meet other travellers and share their vacations.
Featured itinerary: Northern European, Norwegian Islands and Belgium – Southampton to Reykjavik – multiple dates –Norwegian Prima
DISNEY CRUISE LINE
Why them? If you let your kids drag you to Disneyland, you’re resigning yourself to a day of crowds, heat and standing in lines – whereas on a Disney Cruise, you can sip cocktails on deck while your kids have the time of their lives in the kids’ club.
Featured itinerary: Mediterranean with Greek Isles Cruise – Rome to Barcelona – 30 June 2025 – 12 nights – Disney Fantasy «
A new dawn for APT
APT’s newest vessels are certainly a departure from the cookie-cutter vessels currently plying the waterways of Europe, writes Kirsty Sier.
The question that drove the design decision of APT’s newest ships was: ‘Is what we’re doing the most luxurious available?’
For a start, there are six restaurants – one of which is on hydraulics so it can be moved up and down to give guests an experience that is aligned to capitalise on the views depending on the port.
A 15-day trip equates to 41 meals on board. Stacked against their ocean liner peers, river cruise ships typically have dramatically limited dining options.
Which is why “freedom of choice” is the main tenet underpinning the dining aboard APT Solara and APT Ostara. The two new ships break a number of records, including having more dining options than any other river cruise ship in Europe.
There are six separate dining venues, each of which aims to be distinct enough to give passengers the sense they are free to eat a di erent meal, at a di erent venue, each time they visit – or, to put it simply, to bring the luxury of choice available in Australian cities to the context of a river ship.
The idea is that these dining options will change within themselves. Underpinning each are the core values of regionality, curated quality, flexibility and seasonality. As the ships sail through the countries and regions of their respective itineraries, the menus will shift to reflect the seasonal specialties of the lands through which they pass.
*
APT Solara & APT Ostara Clockwise, from above: Balcony Suite; Annie’s Table; the new Daystar Deck.
The Owner’s Suites are amazing and even the entrylevel Twin Window Suites are well-appointed, with smart spaces in light wood tones. In the Owner’s Suites, panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows drench the room in sunlight and allow you to take in sweeping views of the passing landscape. They have separate sitting areas that invite you to indulge in private in-suite dining.
APT Solara and APT Ostara will launch in Central Europe in 2025, with up to 154 guests on board each ship. At the heart of their di erence is the fact that they are built with an Australian market in mind. Because Australians spend long hours travelling to Europe, the average river cruise is 15 days (many rival companies now do short seven-day trips to appeal to European cruisers).
Bistro Saison will recall the atmosphere of a neighbourhood European bistro, with classic fare inspired by local regions. There will be both hot and cold bu ets serving locally sourced proteins and produce, as well as freshly baked bread at breakfast and lunch, and a fresh-to-order, seasonal à la carte menu for dinner.
The Salon will be a relaxed space designed around the idea of social connection on board. The space itself will be flexible, equally capable of functioning as a quiet reading nook with barista-made co ee in the morning and a live music entertainment hub in the evenings.
Annie’s Table is a contemporary o ering, centred around familiar dishes executed with precision and designed to share. The Daystar Deck, a top-level option flush with fresh air and stunning riverfront views, specialises in Mediterranean-style BBQ: flame-grilled meats, seafood, vegetables and, of course, cocktails.
Then there’s The Grüner Bar & Dining, which is inspired by European farmers’ markets. Going further than simple seasonality, this venue will feature a new ingredient each day, to reflect the specific region you find yourself exploring at the time. This is also the venue that will be powered by hydraulics.
The entire Grüner venue can be raised or lowered, depending on the time of the day or the port you’re sailing into, to capitalise on the very best views – and with the happy side e ect of making its patrons feel like they’re each the star of their own James Bond movie. «
For more information, visit aptouring.com.au or phone 1300 336 932.
EUROPE 2025
DISCOVER A NEW GENERATION OF LUXURY CRUISING
Be one of the first to experience our brand-new, luxury river ships: APT SOLARA and APT OSTARA.
• Designed in Australia by the world-renowned, award-winning Hecker Guthrie team.
• Unprecedented dining choice with six distinct dining venues – elevating the standard in river cruising gastronomy to an unrivalled level.
• World-first dining experience featuring state-of-the-art hydraulics system raising the restaurant to the upper Sun Deck for 360-degree views.
• Luxuriously appointed suites offer spectacular riverside scenery and an abundance of in-suite services.
• A wide range of wellness options including a pool, gym and fitness classes.
Signature Experiences
• A ‘Sound of Music’ show overlooking Salzburg.
• A private concert at Vienna’s City Palace, home to the princely family of Liechtenstein.
• Meet Princess Heide vonHohenzollern as she welcomes you into her home, Namedy Castle.
Magnificent Europe Luxury River Cruise 15 days all-inclusive Budapest to Amsterdam
per
14 night river cruise onboard a brand-new river ship. Includes all meals, premium beverages, excursions, transfers, port charges, porterage and gratuities.
The most onboard dining venues on Europe’s rivers. Enjoy our unique Signature Experiences plus enriching sightseeing inclusions of your choice. Würzburg
Rüdesheim
Bratislava Regensburg Nuremberg Miltenberg Melk Vienna Dürnstein
What Michelin’s new hotel rating system means for travellers – and what makes a Three Key stay, writes Hannah Meltzer.
the STARS are out
In 1900, a French tyre company published a restaurant guide to encourage motorists to take to the road and buy more of their product – genius content marketing way ahead of its time. It began attributing “Stars” in the 1930s and we know the rest of the story: a new reference for fine dining was established. Today, Michelin is hoping to write a new chapter with Keys, a three-tier designation system just like the Stars, but for hotels, which it is hoping will become that same reference point for accommodation.
This is not entirely new ground for Michelin. The Guide has always included accommodation recommendations. As with the culinary Stars, the Keys are awarded following visits from anonymous judges. The inspectors, high-level hotel and restaurant professionals from around the world, work in committee to choose which hotels are featured.
According to Gwendal Poullennec, the international director of the Michelin Guide, inspectors look out for hotels “offering the most remarkable experiences” in a number of criteria: architecture and interior design; quality and consistency of service; overall personality and character; and value for the price.
The announcement of the Keys began, naturellement, with the French market in April 2024, with the US and Spain following not long after. The selections for Italy and Japan are to be announced later this year and it is expected that additional countries will be added as the practice goes on.
The French market has the highest number of Keys awarded so far, with 24 Three Key hotels, denoting “an extraordinary stay”. The French tourism authorities already consider France to be a world-leading destination in luxury travel, hence the creation of the “Palace” distinction in 2010, awarded only to French five-star hotels that fit criteria such as having a spa and a world-class concierge service.
It’s essentially like classifying a hotel as six star: those that make the cut, such as Le Bristol, are generally in a different league to other hotels in terms of opulence and have price tags to match too, to the tune of €2000 ($3200) per night or more (not including breakfast!). There are 31 of these properties across France, 12 of which are in Paris.
A number of them are recognised with Three Keys in this new Michelin ranking, including La Réserve, rated 9 out of 10 by myself, known for its modern take on classic luxury. Its restaurant, Le Gabriel, was also awarded the elusive three Michelin Stars this year. I said at the time: “Aside from the exquisite styling of star designer Jacques Garcia, this ultra-luxe Parisian hotel offers a hard-to-beat location in one of the most prestigious areas in the city. There are 14 rooms and 26 suites, even the smallest of which are the size of a standard Parisian apartment.”
The hotel is accompanied by traditional Grandes Dames such as Le Bristol, which I scored 9 out of 10. This hotel basically allows guests to feel like Belle in Disney’s Beauty and the Beast when Lumière, the singing candlestick proclaims: “Tie your napkin ‘round your neck, chérie, and we’ll provide the rest.” I said in my review: “The feel is traditional grandeur, from the physical key for each room, to the original Forties
elevator and resident Burmese cat Fa-Raon [retired in 2021 and replaced by a kitten called Socrate], often found sleeping under a Louis XV chair in the lobby.”
The Four Seasons Hotel George V, located in Paris’s swanky “Golden Triangle”, also receives top billing, along with Le Meurice, the Plaza Athénée and, of course, Ritz on Place Vendôme. All of these establishments also have from Michelin Stars attached to their restaurants.
However, the Palaces and the Three Keys are not likefor-like, perhaps highlighting that they serve a di erent purpose – not least because Michelin is aiming for its rating to have global reach, rather than be limited to only French excellence. Michelin selected the 11-room Maison Villeroy for Three Keys, though it is not a “Palace”.
While I understood the majority of the choices on the France list, there were a couple of omissions that surprised me – Byblos in St Tropez, for instance, also a Palace hotel. I stayed recently and thought it was up there with the best of them. The UK Telegraph’s reviewer commended its style, which pays tribute to St Tropez’ fishing village origins, top-tier service that treats everyone like movie stars and sceney beach club.
With the exception of the Mandarin Oriental, all of the Paris palaces get at least one Key. The Lutetia on the Left Bank and the Peninsula near the Arc de Triomphe both get Two Keys. I would say they’re every bit as decadent as their Three Keys counterparts: the Lutetia has a suite for €10,000 ($16,242) per night featuring a camera collection of Francis Ford Coppola, while the Peninsula has a bespoke caviar tasting menu and inroom nail polish dryers. We’re left speculating as to why these two don’t make the top tier, though perhaps Lutetia not having a Michelin-starred restaurant is a factor.
As with the dining ratings, there is a certain sense of
“Michelin selected 11-room Maison Villeroy for Three Keys, though it is not a ‘Palace’.”
mystery. Admirers of Michelin Stars revere the elusiveness of the designation, but it is also criticised for its elitism and opacity.
Key winners
Clockwise, from left: Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris; Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid; Le Bristol, Paris; Loire Valley Lodges; and La Réserve, Paris.
The Spanish selection includes five Three Key hotels, 12 Two Key hotels, and 80 One Key hotels, with a mix of city mansions, such as Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid (Three Keys), island beauties such as Es Princep in Palma de Mallorca (One Key) and food-led addresses such as Akelarre in San Sebastián, which now has to find room to store its Two Keys next to its Three Stars.
But it’s not all about the bling-bling. The more widely attributed One Key rating in particular leaves room for di erent kinds of properties to get a mention. Of the 127 in France, we find some unconventional choices, such as the hip boutique Hôtel des Grands Boulevards from the Experimental Group. I was there recently and the young team was taken aback and delighted to be included.
Loire Valley Lodges, a luxury treehouse retreat with no Wi-Fi, a changing roster of guest chefs and a spa, was another atypical choice on the France list. “I wanted to create a hotel never seen before in France,” said its founder, Anne Caroline Frey. She was “very surprised and very proud” that her hotel received One Key.
On the Spanish list, One Key was awarded to Petunia, a bohemian-cool boutique hotel located in traditional finca buildings in Ibiza; another example of a more relaxed property with a wellness focus being recognised.
“The Keys don’t reward a catalogue of services and facilities,” says Poullennec. “They celebrate, with a resolutely human approach, authentic lived experiences. They aim to be a reliable reference for travellers, as well as a response to the ‘hyper-choice’ and standardisation of tourism.”
This may just be the tyre company’s boldest move since 1900. «
fit for a QUEEN
Bernadette Chua joins the upper crust of London society in one of the city’s most exclusive hotels. But only for a few nights…
Hidden in the backstreets of Belgravia lies a doorway into a secret world. From the outside, The Goring Hotel is like any other classic Edwardian building with its ivy-covered balconies, sandstone portico and a grand awning bearing the historic property’s name.
The London fixture is steeped in history and heritage – established in 1910, it was the property where the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton spent the night before her wedding; where Winston Churchill met allied leaders during World War II; and where the Queen Mother often dined for lunch. But more on that later.
It’s the only luxury hotel in London which is still owned by the same family. Stepping into the lobby, it’s hard not to feel intimidated by the solid oak desk, the tail-coated bell boys, the decadent marble floors and the beautiful hand-painted wallpaper.
You would think such a property would be stiff, stuffy and full of airs. But in fact, it’s the complete opposite. The staff give me a warm welcome, making jokes and playfully jesting with one another.
As they take my passport and credit card details, out of the corner of my eye, I spy a stuffed sheep on the floor and my eyebrow raises. Then my glance turns to the wallpaper – it shimmers as the light passes through the window, showcasing the exotic drawings of animals. But upon further inspection, there are also caricatures of the staff as well as the owners being illustrated. This place is not what it seems to be.
Jeremy Goring, the CEO, took over his family’s property in 2005. It’s said when he cycles into work, he often helps the guests with their bags in his zoot suit. It’s these little touches that make it feel like a quaint and unique hotel.
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Pomp and tradition
This page, from top: The Goring’s scarlet-coated footmen; a truly British welcome.
I’m taken to my suite, the Splendid Garden Room, which overlooks the immaculate sprawling green lawns and manicured hedges. The walls are wallpapered with Italian silk and there’s a desk, sitting chair, large wardrobe and a separate bathroom. But the best feature is the huge balcony terrace, where you can enjoy your full English breakfast. Curiously, another stuffed sheep has been placed on the bed.
It’s no surprise the Royal Suite where the Duchess of Cambridge stayed is the most requested out of the 69 rooms. The one-bedroom penthouse has its own dining room, sitting area and a balcony that runs the entire length of the top floor.
Downstairs, the lobby leads to The Goring Cocktail Bar which features signature classics and old favourites, such as the “Thank you your Majesty”, which pays tribute to the King, and the “Garden Negroni”, Grandpa Goring’s favourite morning drink. With beautiful paintings, plush armchairs and Italian drapery, it’s a lovely place to enjoy an evening drink by the roaring fire during the winter.
And of course, by the fireplace, more sheep. Regular guests remarked the hotel reminded them of the English countryside, which is why The Goring commissioned these delightful wooden sheep, all named Baa-bara, from a man in Devon, to be placed all around the hotel.
Connected to the bar is The Veranda which offers spectacular views of the garden. Floral chairs and huge fiddle-leaf figs fill the observatory-style room. During London’s warmer months, you’ll find guests playing croquet with a Pimms and lemonade in hand. It’s also where non-hotel guests come for the afternoon tea, an exquisite tradition the hotel has perfected over the 100 years it has been open. But here, guests can also have breakfast, a light lunch, or dinner.
The Dining Room, which has previously held Michelin stars, has always had a strong focus on British produce and classics. The elegant restaurant has recently reopened after a refurbishment. It’s the best place to enjoy The Goring’s full English breakfast, complete with black pudding and a strong brew.
Queen Elizabeth II and the Queen Mother would often visit The Dining Room to savour their favourite dish, oeufs Drumkilbo – a cold starter of lobster and boiled eggs, served at The Goring with caviar, that remains a staple on the menu. There are also private dining rooms that overlook the gardens where the Royal Family still have dinners.
As the closest hotel to Buckingham Palace, The Goring still serves as a home away from home for the royals and in 1990, the late George Goring accepted an OBE from
Queen Elizabeth II. This was followed by the appointment of a Royal Warrant to The Goring in 2013, the only hotel to have been granted a Royal Warrant for hospitality services.
The hotel is just a stone’s throw from some historic landmarks, making its location perfect for a quick few days in London. It is a short stroll to Westminster Cathedral and Trafalgar Square as well as the fashionable King’s Road in Chelsea.
The Goring’s warmth and generosity of hospitality make it the best place to come back to after a long day of exploration. But don’t be surprised if Baa-bara is wearing a pair of sunglasses, sunning herself on the armchair by the window. «
Book it
The Goring is priced from $1293 per night. It’s in Belgravia at 15 Beeston Place, London, SW1W 0JW, United Kingdom. See thegoring.com.
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Royal favourite
From above left:
The Goring delights with its fine dining, afternoon teas, and quirky animal theme.
* On track
Portugal’s appeal is ever enduring – the beautiful little country, which has a big heart, is blessed with 300 days of sunshine. It’s the land of port, piri piri and pastel de natas. First-time visitors will be surprised by the stunning landscapes: the Blue Flag beaches, the rolling vineyards of the Douro Valley and the UNESCO heritage sites. And Portugal is still one of the most affordable destinations in Europe. Australians can get away with spending around $100-$150 per day on meals and sightseeing in the capital, Lisbon. Hotels remain affordable – the average price is about $150 a night.
Portugal’s BIG heart
Bernadette Chua fossicks for Lisbon’s gems.
Above the Tagus River, the Ascensor da Bica rises in Lisbon’s Chiado neighbourhood.
CITY GUIDE
Lisbon’s best eats
Something special: 100 Maneiras (R. do Teixeira 39, Lisboa) is the brainchild of Sarajevo-born Ljubomir Stanisic, who arrived in Portugal in his late teens. His tasting menu combines memories of childhood dishes with the best of Portuguese produce. He offers tasting menus (vegetarian and regular) of 11 “moments” and a shorter menu of eight “moments”. One of my favourite dishes was the chef’s Caesar salad, which you eat with your hands.
Local eats: Taberna da Rua das Flores in Chiado was recommended to me by a friend. The small and quaint restaurant looks like nothing from the outside but has queues out of the door. If you’re going for lunch you can try dishes such as the cod salad with chickpeas, but if you’re going for dinner try the tapas: they really are worth the wait.
Traditional favourites: Visit the legendary Gambrinus (Rua das Portas de Santo Antão), which has been serving traditional fare for more than 80 years. Try the croquette with house mustard or the beef sandwich served alongside a Tulipa beer.
Shopping in the city
Food: If you’re a big fan of tinned fish, visit Conserveira de Lisboa, which first opened in 1930. Its walls are lined with different types of fish, mussels and oysters from all around the country. There are some exclusive house brands but also lots from small providers.
Books: Buy a book from the world’s oldest operating book shop, Bertrand on Rua Garrett in Chiado. Founded in 1732, it has a great selection of English literature as well as books and magazines in other languages. You can grab a coffee as well, or if you want a tipple, try some of the local wines.
But of course, in the capital, there are ultra-high-end options such as the Four Seasons Ritz starting from about $1800 per night, or luxury options such as the Hotel Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Lisboa, from $619 per night during high season.
The best place to start on your Portuguese jaunt is Lisbon, which sets the base for day trips. Cruise companies like Avalon Waterways offer Lisbon extensions on Douro River cruises with accommodation and some meals included. Every day, Avalon offers multiple Classic tours ranging from three hours to full days. These are led by local experts who are knowledgeable about Portugal’s history, architecture, political system and anything else you want to know about the country.
“You can learn how to craft the flaky pastry and wobbly custard from an expert chef.”
the official residence of the President of Portugal.
But what was so special about the experience was a private afternoon tea inside one of the historic homes in the neighbourhood. Greeted by a string trio, we were treated to a tour of the library, the dining rooms and the beautifully painted tiles which are an integral part of Portuguese decoration.
The rest of the day was spent exploring the palaces of Cascais, a famous seaside town which was the winter playground of the Portuguese royal family. Today, it’s popular among locals and tourists for surfing and sailing. It’s considered one of the wealthiest areas in Portugal and the Casino Estoril inspired Ian Fleming’s first James Bond novel, Casino Royale
On our first day, we took a drive through the historic centre of Lisbon, past the steep hills, learning about the great earthquake of 1755 that flattened the city and the Marquis de Pombal, who led Portugal’s recovery and reformed the kingdom’s administrative and economic institutions and even started Portugal’s wine exports to other European nations.
Our next stop was towards the coast and the city of Belém, located along the Tagus River. It’s home to the Belém Tower, once used as a fort to protect the city, and the Jeronimos Monastery, as well as Belém Palace,
In the evening, while some opted to listen to the sounds of traditional Fado music, others went off exploring Lisbon’s amazing food scene. There is everything from Michelin-starred restaurants to local eateries serving simple seafood dishes, all made with love.
Avalon’s Classic Excursion will also take you on a walking tour to experience Lisbon’s street food. You’ll try some savoury fried breakfast pastries, sweet croissants with cheese and ham, and visit a canned fish co-op, which has an abundance of anchovies and sardines as well as smoked mussels and oysters.
There is also a pastel del nata-making class, showcasing the beloved Portuguese tarts renowned for their sweet, sugary, cinnamon flavour. You can learn how to craft the flaky pastry and wobbly custard from an expert chef.
Other companies such as Trafalgar Tours and Global Journeys also offer tours from seven to eleven days that take you to other parts of the country. But if you only have a few days before heading onto your next adventure, be sure to pack in as much as you can. «
* Loving Lisbon Clockwise, from far left: Sardines galore in Lisbon’s souvenir stores; Cascais day trip; Bertrand book store; pastel de natas; the Belem Tower.
