River Cruiser – Great Adventures on the World's Inland Waterways

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RIVER CRUISER GREAT ADVENTURES ON THE WORLD‘S INLAND WATERWAYS

WIN AN 8-NIGHT AVALON RIVER CRUISE WORTH $11,000

NEW RIVER TRENDS EGYPT, INDIA & COMBINATION HOLIDAYS

EASTERN ODYSSEY A SLOW BOAT ON THE YANGTZE

THE WIDEST WATERFRONT VIEW OF THE WORLD.

We promise more than a good view on an Avalon Waterways river cruise we deliver the suite view.

Our entire fleet in Europe and Southeast Asia is completely comprised of Suite Ships®, each featuring our Panorama SuitesSM with the widest opening windows in river cruising, the industry’s only Open-Air BalconySM, and an inviting bed facing the ever-changing scenery. Wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling, our panoramic windows blur the line between outside and in, presenting the greatest window of opportunity in river cruising. It’s relaxed luxury cruising at its finest.

AVALON GIVES YOU MORE CHOICE

30% larger staterooms than average

FlexDining where & when you choose

Visit avalonwaterways.com.au Call 1300 230 234 or see your local travel agent

Beer & wine with lunch & dinner

Choice of Classic, Active & Discovery sightseeing

Adventure Centre & AvalonGO app

DIVE INTO A WHOLE NEW WAY OF CRUISING.

We travel to see new things, try new things, and experience new cultures. With Avalon’s exclusive Active & DiscoverySM river cruises, we offer excursions for varying interests and all fitness levels for those with a curious or energetic mindset. Whether you choose to enjoy beautiful views of castles gliding along legendary riverbanks in a canoe, or to perfect your brushstrokes in a local art studio, or sear today’s catch in a lively cooking class, our Active & Discovery river cruises present a whole new level of immersion for you to experience.

Active & Discovery cruises are available on the Rhine, Danube & Rhone rivers.

2019 & 2020 brochures out now

2020 FRANCE RIVER CRUISING FLIGHTS INCLUDED TO FRANCE FOR ALL*

EARLYBIRDS OUT NOW – STRICTLY LIMITED OFFER

France Beaune

Chalon-sur-Saône Saône

Tournus

Cormatin

10 Rhône

Lyon

Tournon Ardèche National Park Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Avignon

Scenic Sapphire, Avignon, France

South Of France 11 Day Cruise

Lyon > Lyon

Discover why the South of France is famous for its beautiful countryside, delicacies and amazing architecture.

Cruise along the Saône & Rhône through the South of France on Scenic Sapphire and enjoy the luxurious amenities, including an innovative Salt Therapy Lounge and Scenic Culinaire, our bespoke cooking school.

Exclusive to Scenic Enrich, enjoy a gala dinner and classical concert in the Pope’s Palace in Avignon and an acapella choir performance in the 17th century Trinity Chapel in Lyon.

With our included Scenic Freechoice activities you can sample truffles, wines, cheese and chocolate; or take in the cultural and historic sights.

From only $6,695*pp including flights or upgrade to a Balcony Suite from $9,390*pp

138 128 SCENIC.COM.AU/EUROPE

Pont du Gard

FRAC

La Camargue

Arles

YOUR FLIGHTS INCLUDED*

Pérouges

ALL

Tain l’Hermitage

Viviers Luberon villages

Tarascon

YEAR • SUITES RIVERS • CRUISES of 11 days or longer

SCENIC ALL-INCLUSIVE

Only the finest, most luxurious experiences, both on board and onshore – and they’re all included.

5-star Scenic Space-Ships featuring Scenic Sun Lounges Two exclusive Scenic Enrich experiences Your choice of 26 included Scenic Freechoice activities Scenic Culinaire on board cooking experience 29 meals at up to five on board dining options, from casual to fine dining Complimentary top-shelf beverages all day, every day Personalised in-suite mini bar restocked daily Butler service for all guests Scenic Tailormade for self-guided touring The freedom of our e-bikes Cruise Director to guide and assist with expert local guides Complimentary Wi-Fi All tipping and gratuities

BOOK NOW - STRICTLY LIMITED OFFER Must end 31 August 2019, unless sold out prior

or visit SCENIC.COM.AU/AGENTS for your nearest Scenic agent *Conditions apply. Prices and offers are based on per person, twin share in AUD, strictly limited, not combinable with other offers, and subject to availability. Valid for new bookings only until 31 August 2019. Flight offers are subject to availability ex SYD/MEL/BNE/ADL/PER and based on an airline of Scenic’s choice. Airfares must be booked through Scenic. All airfare deals are scheduled for travel to best suit the tour departure and conclusion dates on available scheduled flights. Any requests outside of the tour dates may incur seasonal surcharges as enforced by the airline. From price includes $300pp Early Payment Discount where full payment is due by 31 Oct 2019. Prices and offers based on FRAC121020.1 in a category E suite (no balcony) and balcony upgrade based on a category C Balcony Suite. A non-refundable deposit of $1,000pp is due within 7 days of booking. A second non-refundable deposit of $2,000pp is due by 28 Sep or 11 months prior to departure, whichever comes first. We reserve the right to ticket any flights upon receipt of the second deposit and any subsequent changes will incur change and/or cancellation fees. Prices correct as of 06/05/19. For full terms and conditions visit scenic.com.au/terms. ABN 85 002 715 602. SNMA338.

WELCOME

Rivers on the rise / River cruising is changing. Thanks to an amazing amount of truly transformational work towards the deployment of new high-tech ships sailing on fresh waterways, younger and more active passengers are jumping aboard.

The result is itineraries that break new ground in terms of where they go, and what happens when passengers get there as well as what they do onboard.

Drag queens and tattoo parlours from U, photography classes and author tours from Avalon, exclusive shore excursions from Scenic, electric bikes and even a marine water sports platform from APT – suddenly the rivers of the world are alive with fun, a far cry from the sedentary image this kind of holiday once had.

Add destinations like Asia, India and Egypt, all of which are enjoying rapid growth and uncovering fresh experiences for adventure seekers, and you have a perfect recipe for growth and development.

All of which explains why more multigenerational groups and younger travellers are booking river cruises.

Its not just the convenience of unpacking only once, the inclusive food and drink offerings or the pleasant way of travelling.

It’s the fact that, all of a sudden, river cruising is cool!

Peter Lynch, Publisher

Contents 6/ News

14/ Reviews

What’s new on the inland waters of the world: ships, destinations and onboard offerings.

14 Avalon Envision A brand new ship embodies the line’s do-it-your-way approach to cruising.

20 Viking Emerald This land-cruise combination holiday shows the best of China.

22/ Competition Win a nine-day cruise and stay in Europe with Avalon Waterways.

Europe/Asia/India/Americas Australia’s only site specialising in inland waterway holidays Sign up for our free newsletter packed with travel tips and deals

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NEWS: INTRODUCTION

NOW EVERYONE CAN CRUISE

Suddenly, it seems there’s a river cruising experience for everyone, finds Vanessa Wu.

w

hen Adventures by Disney announced it was going into river cruising, the myth that children could never love this type of holiday went out of the window.

When Uniworld unveiled The B, the myth that millennials could never be interested in sailing inland waters similarly disappeared.

Now, as you will see in this special magazine, larger suites, new ships, more shore excursions, combination itineraries, celebrity partnerships, culinary favourites and better entertainment have all led to an amazing growth across all segments of the market.

New rivers are always a drawcard for adventurous travellers. Being one of the first to sail a river not only earns bragging rights, but also rewards with the first glimpse of unspoiled landscapes.

Asian cruisers are going beyond the Yangtze, Mekong, Irrawaddy and Ganges to less-travelled waters like the Chindwin River on the Myanmar – Assam border and the Red River in North Vietnam. Just a few months ago, the very first tourist vessel sailed 6

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through Bangladesh to Kolkata on the Brahmaputra, a route that will be officially launched this fall by Exotic Heritage Group.

While Asian rivers are all about exploring the lifeline for the people of the region, in the Amazon, cruisers can experience the jungle from the comfort of a luxury liner.

The legendary Nile in Egypt is also receiving strong renewed interest with sold-out seasons.

Viking Cruises is expanding its program with a new ship, Viking Osiris, which debuts in September 2020.

The line is launching two London-based pre-cruise extensions that include exclusive experiences designed

NEWS: INTRODUCTION

to enhance guests’ knowledge of Egyptology prior to even arriving in Cairo. They offer privileged access to places like the Egyptian Collection at the British Museum, and Howard Carter’s archives which detail the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb.

Viking’s itinerary is a stellar example of the new style of travel river cruise lines are offering.

It’s customisable, exclusive and enhances your experience with experiential itineraries.

Gone are the days where shore excursions meant herding a group on and off a coach to grab mandatory snaps at tourist spots. Instead, there are plenty of options for cruisers to explore their own interests.

It could be a relaxing wellness experience, a culinary event, classes with local artisans, discovering regional culture with hands-on experiences, or getting your heart pumping with a guided hike, e-bike tours, kayaking or even a round of golf.

Combination itineraries are perhaps the biggest trend of all. Australian cruisers are looking to extend their cruise and maximise their time in Europe to make the most of their long journey there. This could be a combination of land tours, ocean cruises or even another river cruise with their first river cruise itinerary.

Scenic has a new fully guided four-night land tour extension around mythical Transylvania on their

Clockwise from above: Uniworld’s River Countess in Venice; a castle in Transylvania; capuchin monkeys in the Amazon.

Danube Delta Discover, while APT’s Classic Journeys land tour, designed to connect seamlessly with their river cruises, has been very popular for 2020.

Viking Cruises is also finding increasing interest in river-ocean combination cruises. Their Bergen to Budapest/Basel itinerary is running for a second year in 2020 and already there is only limited availability remaining. These 15- and 22-day itineraries take guests to the landscapes of the Norwegian fjords on an ocean cruise and experience the classic European river cruise all in one holiday.

These combination itineraries can get long but lines are also offering shorter cruisers to cater to time-poor younger cruisers. Avalon Waterways, CroisiEurope and A-Rosa Cruises have four- to six-day itineraries on the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers in 2020. These sampler itineraries are also perfect for new cruisers who want to dip their toes in the water without committing to a longer journey.

Efforts to draw in a younger crowd don’t stop there. APT is fitting out their ships with fitness and wellness centres, offering yoga sessions, putting on live entertainment and organising gourmet-themed experiences to appeal to millennial guests. On U by Uniworld, they take it one step further with mixology sessions, silent discos, karaoke nights and barbecues.

Across the board, river cruisers want more out of their onboard experience, and cruise lines are answering with bigger ships, larger suites and more amenities. AmaMagna, which began sailing the Danube in May, is nearly twice the width of traditional European river ships and the extra space allows AmaWaterways with APT to offer multiple dining venues, a larger spa and gym, enhanced evening entertainment and even a water-sports platform.

Avalon Waterways’ wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling windows in the Panorama Suites promise excellent balcony views while maximising space in the suites, and the line has just launched Avalon Envsion.

This year, eight of Scenic’s Space-Ships will also be upgraded to have larger but fewer staterooms.

It looks like the luxury of space is making a comeback – or did it just never go out of style? rivercruisepassenger.com.au

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NEWS

News

SHORTER SAILINGS ATTRACT NEW CRUISERS

Several river cruise lines including Avalon Waterways and Crystal River Cruises are now offering shorter itineraries to travellers looking to sample a holiday on the river. Avalon Waterways will now offer four-, five- and six-day itineraries on the Rhine, Main and Danube Rivers to let time-poor travellers dip their toes into river cruising. Passengers can now experience a holiday on European rivers with a four-day Taste of the Danube itinerary with Avalon, visiting

Budapest, Bratislava, Melk, Dürnstein and Vienna, from $2,682 per person. Avalon is the second line to introduce shorter river journeys, following Crystal River Cruises’ decision to shorten four of the 10-day sailings in Europe to four- and six-day sailings on Crystal Mahler and Crystal Mozart. The condensed sailings, which departed in April and May this year, were extremely popular both alone and as part of a combination holiday.

NOT YOUR USUAL CRUISE QUEEN Well, they did say it was going to be different... U by Uniworld, billed as the first line for millennials, has announced new itineraries featuring drag queens and tattoo artists. In a move seemingly designed to distance the brand from piano men and bus tours, U in Drag will feature Jiggly Caliente, Darienne Lake and Phi Phi O’Hara – regulars on top-rated US TV show RuPaul’s Drag Race. In what promises to be a raucous river extravaganza, there will be a karaoke night, drag make-up lessons and an exclusive bar crawl with the drag queens at one of the ports. Tattoo on U sets sail in Germany in August with celebrity tattoo artists Steven Tefft, Reese Hilburn, Bobby Moss and his tattoo model wife Heather Moss; and Paul Gambino. As well as the chance to get inked by a celebrity, guests will be able to take a tattoo parlor crawl in one of the ports and attend a tattoo Q&A brunch.

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EUROPE

RIVER CRUISING 2020

15 DAYS FROM

*

PP TWIN SHARE

ü Cruise on a premium Classic or Contemporary river ship

Add a Paris and Prague city stay from just $2,695* pp

FLY FREE

Amsterdam

ALL CABINS, ALL DATES*

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3

Cologne Brühl Rüdesheim

Paris

Travelmarvel River Ship

Miltenberg

Bamberg 3

Nuremberg Würzburg Regensburg Dürnstein Passau Vienna Melk

ü Key sightseeing with local guides including a visit to the famous Naschmarkt market in Vienna

ü Flexi-Tours give you more choice and free time ü 41 meals, soft drink, beer and wine included with lunch and dinner onboard ü Transfers, port charges, tipping and Wi-Fi included

EUTC15/EUTCPP21

WHY CHOOSE TRAVELMARVEL?

ü Expert services of a Travelmarvel Cruise Director and Entertainment & Activities Coordinator

ü Enjoy Travelmarvel’s unique Insider Experiences which have been carefully designed to enrich your journey

Prague

Budapest

Member of the APT Travel Group

A Travelmarvel river cruise brings you more of Europe, in premium comfort and style. Simply unpack once and discover Europe at your own pace, as we perfectly balance comprehensive inclusions and free time.

$5,595

EUROPEAN GEMS

MORE VALUE

Must-see sights, premium accommodation and authentic meals.

Order your free brochure today

MORE CHOICE

Perfect balance of sightseeing and leisure time.

( 1300 015 131 or contact your local travel agent

MORE EXPERIENCE

Part of the APT Travel Group with over 90 years in travel.

MORE RELAXED

A casual atmosphere where fellow travellers become new friends.

travelmarvel.com.au/Europe2020

*Conditions apply. SEE: travelmarvel.com.au/SpecialDeals for full conditions. Price is per person (pp), AUD, twin share and includes port charges. Price is correct as at 6 May 2019. Price based on EUTC15: 30 November 2020 (Cat. E Contemporary Class). Price includes an Early Payment Discount of $400 pp. EARLY PAYMENT DISCOUNT: Tour must be paid in full 10 months prior to travel. ALL OFFERS: Enquire for details. Limited suites on set departures are available and are subject to availability. DEPOSITS: A first non-refundable deposit of $1,000 pp must be paid within seven days of booking. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ABN 44 004 684 619. ATAS accreditation #A10825. TM-150

NEWS

AVALON’S SPECIALITY ITINERARIES Themed cruises are on the rise, and Avalon Waterways has lined up plenty of special-interest itineraries for the 2020 season. The new offerings include photography-focused shore excursions, food market jaunts and cooking classes, brewery tours, vino cruises and much more on which guests can mingle with like-minded passengers and learn from local experts. On a European Waterways cruise, guests can play golf at some of the most famous courses in Scotland, Ireland, England and France. The line will organise tee times then pick guests up down river after their game. Alternatively, nature and garden lovers can sail on a botanical cruise through Europe, visiting some of the gardens that inspired Monet and Manet.

NEW RIVERS FOR CRUISERS To meet the demands of repeat customers, lines are upping their capacity on less-travelled rivers such as the Douro in Portugal, which saw an 85 per cent increase in UK travellers in 2017. Russia, too, saw strong growth, with 70 per cent more visitors. Some Asian countries, particularly India, had as much as 27 per cent growth, while Egypt’s Nile is also proving popular. CLIA Australasia Managing Director Joel Katz said Australia tends to follow trends from the UK, so we look to them to forecast the industry. “One of the most significant trends we’re hearing from river cruise operators is the increasing popularity of itineraries beyond traditional favourites on the Rhine and Danube,” he said. “River cruising has a very high repeat rate, so as travellers return for another cruise, they often look to try new waterways.”

MORE SAILINGS FOR SOLO TRAVELLERS

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British line Riviera Travel has added additional solo traveller departures to its 2019 and 2020 itinerary schedule.

Riviera launched its solo traveller cruisers program last year, with ships dedicated to cruisers travelling alone and no single supplements. The first cruises were on the Danube and Rhone rivers, but due to the popularity, the line has tripled the number and broadened the range of solo-traveller only sailings. This year’s remaining cruises depart in October and November and next year they sail in March, April, October and November. Sailings include The Blue Danube; The Douro, Porto & Salamanca; Rhine, Strasbourg & Heidelberg; and Burgundy, The River Rhone & Provence, among others.

NEWS

AMADOURO SETS SAIL In April AmaWaterways with APT christened AmaDouro, and she embarked on her first journey on the Douro, where she offers seven-night round-trip itineraries. The ship has 51 staterooms, most with outside balconies so guests can enjoy the rolling hills and vineyards along Douro River Valley. Public spaces include a panoramic lounge, a heated sun deck swimming pool, a fitness room and a massage room, and her menu features regional dishes and wines. She joins sister ship, AmaVida which also sails the Douro between Porto and Vega Terron. AmaDouro was the first of three ships joining the fleet this year.

VIKING’S BIG CHRISTENING

A-ROSA WELCOMES KIDS

European river line A-Rosa will have a new ship delivered in 2021, set to cruise primarily on the northern Rhine. It will be child friendly, with several family cabins, a restaurant with a separate children’s eating area and a children’s pool on the sun deck. Children aged 15 and below travel free and during school holidays, the ship will offer childcare services from 8am to 9pm. The vessel will also have an extra-large spa and wellness area to keep adults sane. Shore power connection will allow the ship to charge its battery overnight so it won’t create emissions when it departs, and energy-saving features include an optimised hull to lower fuel consumption.

It was a momentous day in March when Viking River Cruises, the largest line in the industry, launched seven new vessels simultaneously in a number of locations in Europe. Viking Einar and Viking Sigrun were christened at the main event in Basel, Switzerland, where the other ceremonies were broadcast on large screens; Viking Vali and Viking Tir were named in Brunsbuttel, Germany; Viking Sigyn and Viking Ullur were named in Rostock, Germany; and Viking Helgrim was named in Porto, Portugal. The new ships were decked out in white and red balloons to reflect the company’s logo, and instead of using Champagne, the line used aquavit, a nod to the line’s Norwegian heritage. Viking’s seven new ships bring the line’s total to 54 longships. cruisepassenger.com.au

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NEWS

Wellness on the waterways These days you can disembark fitter, calmer and healthier than ever before, writes Sally Macmillan.

t

he wellness trend – encompassing everything from superfood smoothies to spin classes – is largely driven by millennials, but fitness-conscious travellers of all ages are looking for more in their holidays and river cruise companies are embracing wellness in a big way. / Pump it up While river cruising has long been associated with sedate walking tours led by flag-bearing guides or bus trips through picturesque countryside, change is afoot.

Cycling is a great way to get around in Europe – there are lots of excellent cycling paths and many ships carry bikes for passengers to use on independent or guided group tours. Segway, jogging, hiking and kayaking tours are also being added to the mix as a fun way to keep fitness levels up while exploring riverside destinations.

This year, Avalon introduced onboard Adventure Hosts, who help passengers arrange activities like cycling, hiking with Nordic poles, kayaking or fitness classes. Adventure Centres stock all the gear you need for exploring – bikes, helmets, binoculars, maps and day packs – plus yoga mats, stretch bands and FitBits.

Avalon’s Adventure Host program complements the line’s Active Discovery itineraries, as well as three new types of excursions: Classic, Discovery and Active. / Class action Fitness centres on river ships are usually small but on newer ships they are outfitted with sophisticated TechnoGym equipment such as stationary bikes and

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Above: Scenic passengers exploring on e-bikes. Below: Uniworld guests enjoy on-deck yoga.

Kinesis walls, so there’s no excuse to skip workouts. Sun decks are good for jogging or circuit training, and pools, while usually tiny, can be used for DIY aquarobics.

Extra motivation is increasingly supplied by onboard wellness or fitness coaches who lead exercise, meditation and relaxation classes. Scenic’s Wellness Coaches run daily activities to suit various fitness levels, including new classes in relaxing yoga, invigorating sun salutations and the Five Tibetan Rites, AKA the Fountain of Youth. / Spoil yourself Spa treatments on river cruises used to be limited to a basic massage but now you can indulge in an array of therapeutic offerings, particularly on bigger, newer ships.

Uniworld’s Serenity River Spas and Crystal’s Life Spa and Salons have the most extensive spa menus and most spacious treatment rooms; Scenic is the only river cruise line to have salt-therapy lounges – said to improve respiratory function and cleanse skin – on its ships. / Paddock to ship Eating well is an integral part of wellness, and chefs on river ships are perfectly placed to source seasonal local produce and incorporate fresh ingredients.

Vegetarian options are available across the board; you might have to put in a special request for vegan, salt-, fat- and gluten-free food but most menus now feature plenty of creative vegetarian mains, delicious salads and healthy, simply prepared grilled fish and meat dishes.

Avalon runs its Avalon Fresh dining program with Austrian chefs, brothers Leo and Karl Wrenkh, who are renowned for vegetarian haute cuisine at their restaurant and culinary school in Vienna. The popularity of their food speaks for itself – you can indulge and feel good about it. And isn’t that what wellness is all about?

NEWS

DOURO RAIL AND SAIL The popularity of the Douro marches on, with Travelmarvel adding new itineraries to their Discovery and Rail Combo Journeys.

The Douro Discovery River Cruise, for instance, now has the option of rail combo journeys through Bordeaux, the Basque, Spain and Morocco, destinations the company predicts are set to be among the most popular in 2020. Prices for Travelmarvel’s 20-day Bordeaux & Basque

by Rail with Douro Discovery start at $9,595 per person, twin share. The 23-day Morocco Rail Adventure with Douro Discovery starts at $10,395 per person, twin share. All prices include earlybird savings of up to $3,000 per person.

TEEMING’S GOODWILL CRUISE Teeming River Cruises is running a one-off departure that adds a mission trip to its cruise/safari itinerary in Southern Africa. The regular itinerary runs weekly and combines a safari adventure at Chobe National Park, three nights in CroisiEurope’s lodge in Botswana, a three-night cruise on Lake Kariba aboard the boutique 16-passenger African Dream and a private plane tour of Victoria Falls. The special itinerary, departing February 6, 2020, includes a mission trip to God’s Hope Christian School and $500 from the price of each cabin will be donated to buy books for the children at the school.

Viking River Cruises is sending a second ship into Egypt to sail the Nile as guests continue to express strong interest in the region. The new ship, Viking Osiris, is currently under construction and is due to debut in September 2020. This move comes just one year after the company launched Viking Ra, a completely renovated vessel and Viking’s first owned and operated ship on the Nile. Viking Osiris, named after the Egyptian Lord of the Underworld and Judge of the Dead, is inspired by the line’s longships and can host up to 82 guests in 41 staterooms. The 12-day Pharaohs & Pyramids itinerary begins with a three-night stay at a first-class hotel in Cairo, where guests can visit iconic sites such as the Great Pyramids of Giza, the necropolis of Sakkara and the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, and stops at six other exciting destinations.

VIKING’S SECOND NILE SHIP

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SHIP REVIEW: AVALON ENVISION

Spoiled for choice

Aboard Avalon’s newest ship, Sue Bryant enjoys the line’s do-it-your-way ethos, especially their more active options.

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SHIP REVIEW: AVALON ENVISION

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Avalon Waterways VESSEL: Avalon Envision STAR RATING: NYR PASSENGER CAPACITY: 166 TOTAL CREW: 47 PASSENGER DECKS: 4 ENTERED SERVICE: 2019 FACILITIES: Restaurants, bars, lounges, pool, fitness centre, bicycles.

BOOKINGS: See avalonwaterways.com.au.

“W

e come from the water, we are made of the water, we are drawn to the water. Our lives are rivers meant to be explored and enjoyed,” declared bestselling author Elizabeth Gilbert as she cut the ribbon to smash a bottle of Törley – Hungary’s most famous sparkling wine – over the hull of the new Avalon Envision. As godmother to Avalon Waterway’s 13th Suite Ship, the Eat Pray Love author will, the company says, “inspire transformative travel experiences”.

Left: the Observation Centre. Right: a Panorama Suite.

Let’s hope so. Either way, though, one thing is for sure: a voyage on this sleek new ship is certainly very comfortable. The 166-passenger Envision is the same model as Avalon’s other highly successful Suite Ships, with a few tweaks to the evolved design. One of the most significant changes is special ballast tanks that allow the ship to sit higher in the water than other vessels when the river is low – a situation that’s becoming increasingly serious on the Danube in summer. With a shallower draft, Envision will be able to sail even when there’s not much water.

A big selling point of Avalon’s whole Suite Ship fleet is the gorgeous Panorama Suites, which make up 80 per cent of the accommodation. They’re a generous 18.6 square metres, with a unique design that allows the bed to face a whole wall of glass that slides sideways to create an open balcony feel and allow river breezes to waft in. I spent one afternoon lounging in brilliant spring sunshine in my cabin as the ship sailed from Budapest to Visegrád. You really feel a connection to the river – to the extent that two Germans paddling past in a kayak stopped for a chat.

It’s not just the balcony design. The cabin décor is smart; pale gold with dark grey cabinets and splashes of rich purple. All sorts of clever touches are thrown in, such as colour-coded towels – one brown, one white – in the chocolate-and-cream marble bathroom, so you don’t get yours mixed up with your partner’s. There’s even a choice of mattress toppers so you can choose how squishy, or firm, you want the bed. Robes, slippers and USB ports are standard, and there’s an impressive selection of free movies on the TV and two sets of L’Occitane goodies to choose between. Bottled water rivercruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: AVALON ENVISION

Clockwise from above: the Club Lounge; the bar; Envison on the river; a meal in the dining room.

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is shortly to be replaced by refillable flasks for every guest, and water dispensers added around the ship.

Envision is all about choice, which is a promise more complex than it might sound on a European river boat, which can’t get any longer or taller as size is restricted by the locks through which they have to travel.

There’s a choice of places to eat, for a start. When the weather’s fine, the Sky Grill on the top deck is opened, so you can dine al fresco at lunchtime. There is informal dining in the Panorama Lounge, where you can have breakfast, lunch, cakes and sandwiches for afternoon tea and even dinner, with a similar menu to what’s on offer in the main dining room. This lounge, which is also the bar and dancing space, is gorgeous, done out in greys, creams and golds with splashes of amber, big pots of orchids and cosy corners with books on shelves.

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Original contemporary art, specially commissioned to match the colour scheme, completes the picture.

A second space, the much smaller Club Lounge, aft on Royal Deck, is flooded with natural light and offers books, board games, an espresso machine and trays of snacks. Fresh bottled juice, bought from farmers along the river, is available, too – apple and ginger, or strawberry, or carrot and beet – it’s a lovely touch.

There’s a new and welcome development in the main dining room too, in that more than 60 per cent of the tables are for two. Dinner is open seating, so you can turn up any time between 7pm and 8.30pm for dinner without the anxiety of getting stuck with strangers.

The food is excellent, not least thanks to a partnership with the Wrenkh brothers, two celebrity Austrian chefs with an almost entirely vegetarian restaurant and cookery school in Vienna. There’s always a vegetarian option to match the meat or fish, so tofu teriyaki when the amuse bouche is chicken teriyaki, or asparagus with lemongrass and polenta as an alternative to tiger prawn done the same way. At lunchtime, there is a satisfying mix of a healthy salad bar and rich Hungarian dishes, like goulash, chicken paprika and a delicious mushroom stroganoff. For dinner, there are international options like herb-crusted veal tenderloin, or sea bream with chorizo and sweet potato mash. Decent wines from Austria, Hungary, France and Germany are liberally poured with meals.

Daily excursions are labelled Classic; Active, which includes hiking, kayaking or cycling; and Discovery, which includes wine tastings and cookery classes. Most are included, although you can pay for a handful of extra tours. I opt for a cycling tour round Budapest, which is more a lesson in dodging tourists than actual

SHIP REVIEW: AVALON ENVISION

Envision is all about choice, a promise more complex than it might sound on a European river boat.”

THE VERDICT HIGHS: The healthy food, the active excursions and the gorgeous Panorama Suites.

LOWS: Not lows, as such, but if you’re hoping for butler service and an all-inclusive bar, other cruise lines may be more appropriate. Strangely, in the two Royal Suites, the poshest accommodation, the bed doesn’t face straight out over the river – the view is partly obstructed by a wall, while the sitting area enjoys the view.

BEST FOR: A beautiful new ship far better tailored to today’s independent, adventurous traveller than many of its rivals on Europe’s rivers.

sightseeing, and a wonderful hike up to the 13th century Visegrád Castle, through forests bursting into leaf in the sunshine, tantalising views of the river below. There’s plenty of activity onboard, too, from Zumba classes to yoga, and high-quality, Dutchbuilt bicycles to borrow.

Expanding further on the theme of choice, Avalon is introducing ‘Avalon Your Way’ in 2020, which is good news for Australian cruisers as the whole offering suddenly becomes more flexible. Packages, which at the moment are sold with hotel stays bolted onto each end, can be deconstructed, so you could just do the cruise and make your own arrangements in cities like Prague, Vienna and Budapest. Alternatively, custom-made itineraries can be designed via Avalon’s partnership with Monograms, or an entire land tour bolted on, offered by Globus. Also new is a range of shorter itineraries; Envision will mix three-night mini-cruises between Budapest and Vienna with its longer voyages in 2020 – perfect for time poor travellers, or first-timers who might just want a brief taste of life on the river as part of a longer tour in Europe.

The whole experience is dubbed ‘relaxed luxury’

by Avalon, which sums it up perfectly. For me, as someone who’s into hiking and cycling, healthy eating, decent wines and an itinerary relaxed enough to allow overnights in both Budapest and Vienna, it’s the perfect formula. rivercruisepassenger.com.au

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VIP

ADVERTORIAL

“THE WAY WE ALWAYS WANT TO TRAVEL”

Flight Centre marketing managers Ashleigh Conwell and Danielle Luck recall the Mekong cruise that made them converts for life.

R

iver cruising is a seductive style of travel; all your needs are taken care of and everything is at your fingertips. Eight days may seem like a short time to explore two countries in depth, but sailing south from Siem Reap in Cambodia to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam is a trip where the journey really is the destination.

On the river, nothing felt rushed.

We travelled on the boutique ship AmaLotus on an APT Luxury Mekong River Cruise. We had the same crew for the entire journey, which created an intimate experience – the staff really got to know us and what we liked. Leo, the bartender, served us gin and tonics no matter where we were on the ship, and waiter Saven would ensure our morning coffee always came with a heart etched in the froth. This attention to detail permeated the entire ship.

Onboard dining was a particular highlight. We savoured a memorable meal at the 20-seat specialty restaurant Indochine, which is included in the fare.

The exclusive Luke Nguyen-designed menu included pan-seared rice cakes with XO tiger prawns and pork floss, which drew rave reviews. Like a floating smorgasbord, the ship’s cuisine changed daily to reflect the flavours of the regions we were cruising through. (Hot tip: Book a reservation for Indochine on the first day of your cruise so you don’t miss out.)

Our stateroom was comfortable – spacious enough for two, with beds so soft it felt like sleeping on clouds.

Days started with a shore excursion in the morning, followed by lunch on the ship as we cruised to a new destination. Each day brought new experiences in different

riverside villages – tiny towns off the beaten tourist track with French colonialera abodes, ornate temples and cathedrals, and colourful markets.

Unlike an ocean cruise, where you are surrounded by nothing but the deep blue, life is happening all around you on the river; you engage with the destination for the entire journey.

The onboard camaraderie was another unexpected benefit. Our fellow cruisers were open to chatting and sharing their experiences. River cruisers really do have their own community, one we were readily welcomed into.

By the time we disembarked at My Tho for our transfer to Ho Chi Minh City, we were river cruise converts. The ease, the organized-yet-flexible itinerary and the inviting onboard atmosphere – this is how we always want to travel.

Visit Flight Centre today and speak to a Cruise expert for more information on river cruises. Go to flightcentre.com.au or call our dedicated Cruise line 13 70 79.

rivercruisepassenger.com.au

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SHIP REVIEW: VIKING EMERALD

SLOW BOAT IN CHINA A Viking river cruise and land tour combination shows Bridget McGrouther the highlights of this fascinating country.

a

kaleidoscope of colour, crowds, skyscrapers and party boats make the Huangpu River instantly recognisable when we arrive after dark, the perfect time to see the glitzy spectacle of Shanghai’s waterfront with the famous Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Two nights in this vibrant city is a thrilling welcome to our 14-day Imperial Jewels of China tour.

We meet David, our friendly Viking tour guide, to explore Old Shanghai the next morning; he leads us through intriguing alleyways and bamboo-shaded parks, providing insight into traditions and culture.

I happily follow local superstition, sprinting round a circle of stones in the Feng Shui Yu Garden, but hopes of increasing my life expectancy are dashed when my husband points out I’m running in the wrong direction.

To boost health and wellness, locals gather each morning for Tai Chi or line dancing. Cages hang under

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rivercruisepassenger.com.au

Above: a quiet corner near the Three Gorges.

Below: Viking Emerald’s observation lounge bar.

trees to let pet birds sing and socialise, while poodles on park walks have their ears and tails dyed in rainbow hues. People watching here is never dull.

We take a short flight to Wuhan, and are soon meandering down the Yangtze River on the impressive Viking Emerald, with its grand atrium, bars, boutiques and resident tailor. Each stateroom boasts a private veranda, but most guests soak in the spectacular river scenery from the Sun Deck where commentary from staff points out the ancient coffins of the Ba people suspended high on the rock face; wild monkeys; the panorama of towering peaks and cascading waterfalls that appears on the back of a 10 Yuan note.

Almost daily, we enjoy an included excursion. Our top pick is a fascinating inspection of the high-tech, high-cost and highly-controversial Three Gorges.

Our young local guide is surprisingly upbeat about being one of the 1.3 million people compulsorily displaced – ironically, so their homes could be submerged to protect others from catastrophic flooding.

This is the world’s largest dam – it took 17 years and $28 billion to construct – and taking a closer look, we are relieved to have the option to take escalators to the top. Later, it takes our ship four hours to navigate the locks, a sight we enjoy from the Observation Lounge.

One steamy dawn, we disembark and pass villagers hand washing their clothes in the river en route to cross the rickety Drunken Bridge and climb the magical Shibaozhai Temple.

SHIP REVIEW: VIKING EMERALD

FACT FILE CRUISE LINE: Viking VESSEL: Viking Emerald STAR RATING: 4+ PASSENGER CAPACITY: 256 TOTAL CREW: 168 PASSENGER DECKS: 5 ENTERED SERVICE: 2011 FACILITIES: Restaurants, bar, lounge, tailor, gym, salon, library.

BOOKINGS: See vikingcruises.com.au

Life on board is as cosseted as a panda’s – eating and sleeping, sleeping and eating. Western food is served alongside Chinese delicacies, though I’m not tempted by jellyfish or rooster claws! Glasses at mealtimes are quickly replenished with all-inclusive wine, beer and soft drinks, and the free WiFi is surprisingly speedy.

Built in 2011, the 256-passenger Viking Emerald has all-balcony staterooms and interiors designed by a leading architectural firm from Oslo. The ship’s striking four-storey atrium is tastefully done with clean lines, soft woods and marble. An observation lounge with expansive views of the Yangtze features comfortable seating with a full bar and a coffee station. There is an open deck and a sheltered observation deck for comfortable viewing in all weather conditions.

The ship’s elegant dining room has an open-seating policy allowing guests to dine with whoever they want at tables which can accommodate up to eight people.

A variety of onboard activities are offered; try a tea ceremony, play a game of mahjong or get a beautiful silk garment made by the ship’s tailor.

We are sorry to leave our charming crew at the end of our six-day cruise, but our spirits are lifted by the comical giant pandas at Chongqing Zoo. Our now close-knit group of international passengers can hardly wait for our next adventure – two nights in Xi’an where we set eyes on the army of Terracotta Warriors, described as the Eighth Wonder of the World.

A third regional flight (all included in the package price) takes us to Beijing. China’s capital may be last, but it certainly isn’t least. During our three-night stay, we climb the Great Wall of China for panoramic views across the countryside. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is visited as much, if not more, by the Chinese, who visit in droves, as by foreigners. Requests for photos make us feel like celebrities even when we learn their nickname for Westerners is ‘Big Noses’!

In Tiananmen Square, we whisper questions about the delicate subject of the tragic 1989 student prodemocracy protests. Security is tight here – bags are searched and soldiers guard Mao’s Mausoleum. Nearby, after being banned from entering the Forbidden City for more five centuries, it seems everyone has arrived in the world’s largest palace complex at once! But not even the hordes, surging in the heat, can detract from the grandeur of the gilded roofs, gardens, pavilions and courtyards, once home to a long line of emperors.

On a trip packed with highlights, it’s hard to pick a favourite moment, but winding through the narrow Goddess Stream, a secret corner of China only recently opened to tourism, our local guide charmed us with her folklore tales and singing. Her sweet voice carrying across the water and echoing around the limestone cliffs is a memory we will treasure forever.

THE VERDICT

Left: Emerald’s lobby. Right: Oriental Pearl Tower.

HIGHS: Exploring China’s cultural icons such as the Great Wall of China, Forbidden City and Terracotta Warriors. Cruising the dramatic Yangtze River in comfort on Viking Emerald with delicious food – Western dishes as well as Chinese delicacies are available.

LOWS: City smog and river pollution. Humidity and high temperatures. Guided walks at crowded attractions require a reasonable level of fitness.

BEST FOR: First-time visitors to China who prefer to have everything organised for them and all costs paid upfront.

rivercruisepassenger.com.au

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READER COMPETITION

WIN an 8-night European river cruise package with Avalon Waterways worth more than $11,000.

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cruisepassenger.com.au

READER COMPETITION

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iver Cruise Passenger is offering readers the chance to win an exciting eight-night European river cruise package on the Danube, starting in Budapest and stopping at destinations in Hungary, Austria and Germany.

At the start of this Active & Discovery on the Danube cruise, you can stroll the streets of Budapest with a local guide or take a bike ride through town for a different perspective. You might even learn a few useful Hungarian phrases on the way.

Further up the river, you can attend a medieval knights tournament at Visegrád Castle or see Gustav Klimt’s famous painting The Kiss in Vienna. Then sample cheese and beer made by Trappist monks at the only Trappist monastery in Austria, or visit the sombre Mauthausen Concentration Camp, one of WWII’s most notorious sites.

With Avalon Choice, each day is yours to spend your way. Whether you prefer browsing the art collection of the Hapsburg Empire, sipping local vintages at an Austrian wine cellar or joining a canoe excursion, the Active & Discovery cruise is packed with Avalon Choice included excursions.

The cruise is valued at $11,772 for two people, twin share in a Panorama Suite, Category B. The cruise departs Budapest on October 28, 2019.

HOW TO ENTER Go to rivercruisepassenger.com.au/competition and answer this simple question: What is the capital of Hungary?

Terms and conditions apply. See rivercruisepassenger.com. au/competition

cruisepassenger.com.au

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discover

EUROPE'S RIVERS Awaken your wanderlust and indulge your curiosity with a European river cruise like no other. With Viking, you can experience all the highlights of captivating France, picturesque Portugal and beyond…

Santiago de Compostela Juno Beach Les Andelys Gold Beach Rouen Giverny Omaha Beach Mantes-la-Jolie Paris Vernon

Atlantic Ocean

SEINE

Normandy

DOURO RIVER

Régua Pinhão

Braga Porto

Lamego

SPAIN Barca d’Alva Salamanca

Combine two France cruises for a once-in-a-lifetime vacation.

Cruise

RHÔNE

Burgundy Tournon Viviers

Train

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FRANCE

N

Lyon Vienne Provence

Coimbra

Madrid

PORTUGAL

RHÔNE

Avignon Arles Nice

Cruise

Lisbon

Motor coach

FRA NC E ’S FINE S T

PO RTUGAL’ S R I V ER O F G O L D

PA R I S – AVI G N O N or v ic e v ersa 1 5 D AYS | 1 4 G UIDED TOURS | 1 COUNTRY

LI SB O N – PO R TO 1 0 DAYS | 8 G UI DED TO UR S | 2 CO UNTR I ES

S E T S A IL A P R – N OV 2020

SE T SA IL M AR – NO V 2 0 2 0

F ro m

$6,695pp

in Standard stateroom

From

$4,995pp

i n Stan d ard s tatero o m

ENJOY, IT'S ALL INCLUDED ALL ONBOARD ME AL S

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PREMIUM BE VER AGES W ITH LUNCH & DINNER

ENRICHING CULTURE

CRUISERS’ CHOICE

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TIPPING AND GR ATUITIES

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SHORE E XCUR SIONS

UNLIMITED W I - FI

M O S T AWA R D E D | V I K I N G I N C L U S I V E VA L U E L ARGEST & MOST MODERN FLEET

138 747

VIKINGCRUISES.COM.AU

OR SEE YOUR LOCAL TRAVEL AGENT Prices are per person, in Australian dollars, based on double occupancy, subject to availability and correct at time of printing. Prices based on France’s Finest 3 November 2020 departure in Standard stateroom (F) and Portugal’s River of Gold 6 November 2020 departure in Standard stateroom (E). Flight offer is subject to availability, available on new bookings only on selected departures, not combinable with any other offers and may be withdrawn at any time. Flights are in Economy class ex major cities in Australia on Viking’s choice of airline. Prices include all advertised discounts. Valid on new bookings only on selected departures. Must book by 30 August 2019 unless sold out prior. For more details visit vikingcruises.com.au.